;;;•••¦<¦«• H"s?'i-*«**;**,"*;'i';3";:;';;;;;;. ;,„;„;.:».. ,.<,...,,,,•- -¦'r*""1-'')' ,::*;:;, ;;,;;;;: ;;,;!;¦¦ •" s:s&':- . '¦ :¦¦::?: :v!'. :';•»:•¦¦•:::¦;:¦¦ . -..v^i ^::< ;:•; a::;;;;*:*;;;;:; ::.:*:*:*«; si!-";:;- Jovis . . . . ¦ . 68 » 55 )> Modern, see churches. Baths of Caracalla . . 89 » Constantine . . . . 62 H Diocletian . . . 165 » Novitus 134 I) Titus . ... 153 155 II Museum • . . 157 Bridge of Mnlle ... . 174 ii Nomentana . . . . . 163 b Uuatti'o Capi . . . , 113 n Kotto . . . 117 » St. Angelo 17 » St. Bartholomew . 114 ii Horatio's 118 H di Nona ... . 187 II Lucano . 188 Cab Tariff . 196 Camere of Raphael 8 Campus Martius . 106 Cancell sria Palace . . . . 108 X PAGE Capitol 24, tS Casino di Papa Giulio 174 Castel Arcione 188 Castle Gandolfo 181 Castle Fusano 179 Castle of St.. Angelo 16 Catacombs of Domitilla .... 127 » NereusandAchil- leus . . . 127 » St. Agnose . 162-163 » St. Alexander. .169 » St. Calixtus ... 95 » St. Sebastiano . 91 » Jewish . . 98 Cemetery — St. Lorenzo. ... 139 » , Protestant . . 203 Cenci Palace 110 Churches. Protestant 203 i Agnese, piaz. Navona 106 » Agnese, fuori le mura 162 » Alexius 128 » ¦ Alexander . . . 161 » Anastasia 121 » " Ara Coeli 24 » Bibiana . . . 138 n Balbina 92 » Bartolomeo all'Isola 114 » Cappuccini 159 ii Cecilia ... , . 117 » • Clemente 147 » Constanza ...... 1U2 b Cosmo e Damian . . 60 » Crisogono 114 » * Crocein Gerusalemme 141 » " Domine quo Vadis " 95 » Francisca Roinana . . 71 » Giuseppe de'Falegnami 45 n Giorgio in Velabro 120 o Giovanni e Paolo 86 » Gregorio 85 » II Gesii 23 ii II Priorato . . . 128 » * John Lateran .... 14'2 » * Lorenzo fuori le mura 139 » » in Lucina . 15IJ » » in Miranda . 60 » Sta Maria degli Angeli 165 » n in Cosmedin . 122 i » del Popolo . . 15ti » n della Navicella 87 » » in Trastcvere 111 PAGE Churches. S. Maria in Via Lala 43,109 » » Monte Santo, loo » » dei Miracoli. l^G » ' » Maggiore •. . 135 > * » sopra Minerva 21 » St Martino 136 » Nicholas of Bari. . 100 » Onofrio ' ' P d • Paul's fuori le mura. 12a » " St Peter's ... 1 » • Petronilla 127 » * St. Pietro in Vincoli. 84 o » Montorio. 116 » Prisca 1^8 » Pudens 134 » Saba 138 n Sabina 128 » Stefano Rotondo ... 87 » " Stephen Via Latina . 103 » ' Sebastiano ... .99 » Theodore o7 » Trinita dei Monti . . 159 » Urban 98 Chemists — English ..;... 1 96 Circus of Maxentius. ... 99 » Maxiinus 122 Cloaca Maxima 59,120 Colosseum .... ... 75 f ollegio Romano . ... 22 Clubs 296 Column of Immaculate Conception 131 ' « Marcus Aurelius ... 41 » Phocas 52 » Trajan 81 Columbria ... ... 93, 140 Comitium, The 52 Cross of Henry IV of France. . 136 Colonna Gallery . .... 133 ii Gardens . . . . M3 Consulates . . 196 Corsim Gallery 115 Corrections .... .... xxi Decemviral Prisons . . .112 Delubra on the Velia 71 Dentists— English and American. 197 , Diligence 196 Doctors— English and American. 197 Doria Gallery 43 * Churchts built as Basilicas. XI Domitian's statue Embassies Emperors, list of Emporium. . . English College . . Environs . . . PAGE . . 54 . . 197, 201 . 197-8-9 . . . .123 195 169 to 192 Farnese Palace 108 Farnesina 115 Foro Agonale 106 Forum of Augustus- 83 » ' Boarium 120 » Julius Caesar. . . 47 » Nerva 82 » Olitorium . . . .113 » Romanum 45 » Trajan 81 » Transitorium ..... 82 Fountains— Barcaccia 151 » Egeria . . .88, 180 » Felicia 165 » Juturna. ... 57 » Meta Sudans .... 74 » Paolina 117 » Termini 165 » Trevi 132 Frascati 185 Gabii 171 Galleries, List of 200 Gardens of Mecaenas . . . . 137 Gates see Porta Gelotiana • 67 Genzano 180 Grolta Ferrata : ... 183 Grotta of Egeria 88 House 'Of Augustus . 66 » Caligula 67 » Commodus 68 » Domitian 68 » Germanicus 65 » Lucrezia Borgia . . 84 » Mecaenas ....... 153 » Nero ... .67, 153 » Pudens 134 » Raphael 17 » Rienzi 118 « St. Paul 43,109 » Tarquins . 65 PAGE House of Tiberius 67 » Romulus ' 64 Hilda's Tower 106 House Agent — English . . 261 Hills, The Seven 25 Irish College 195 Island in the Tiber 113 Information Guide. ... 193 to 208 Kircherian Museum Lateran Gallery » Museum Lake Albano . » Juturna . . s Nemi . . . » of Tartary Lautumiae Mamertine Prisons Marino . ... Masonic Mausoleum of Aug' » Hadi Marmorata . . Meta Sudans . . . Milliarium Aureum Monte Cavo. . . . Monte Citorio . . Mons Sacer. . » Testaccio . . Mosaic Manufactory, Muro Torto . . . Museums, List of . stus ian , Vatican . 22 146 . 144 . 181 57 . 180 188 . 48 . 46 . 183 . 201 . 105 . 16 . 125 74 . 51 184 41 . 163 . 124 10 . 158200 Nero's Golden house .... 67, 153 ii Colossus 72 » Reservoir 86 Nemi 180 Nymphaeum 138, 167 Obelisk at the Lateran 146 » St Maria Maggiore. 136 » Monte Cavallo . 132 » Monte Citorio ... 42 ii St Peters 1 „ Piazza Navona . , 106 j Pincio 158 ¦ Piazza del Popolo . 156 » Trinita dei Monti . 59 Omnibuses 202 PAGE Orders wanted and where obtai nable 202 Ostia 172, 177 Painters — English and American 194 Parliament House 42 Palace of the Caesars . ¦ 62 Palazzolo 181 Pantheon .17 Pauline Chapel . 7 Pincio 158 Pasquino 107 Places of interest not included in the Rambles. Piazza Barberini 159 » Bocca della Verita . 122 » Campo di Fiori . . . 108 » Colonna .... . . 41 » Farnese 108 » Monte Cavallo . . . 132 ii Monte Citorio. ... 42 ii Navona ... . 107 » St Peters 1 » del Popolo . . 156, 173 » di Spagna 131 ii di Termini !65 Ponte see Bridge Porta Angelica 177 » Asinaria 142 » Capena 89 » Carmonta . , 64 » Latina . ' 103 » Maggiore 140 » Metronia 88 » Mugonia 64 » Pia : 165 » Romana 64 • St Giovanni 104 « St Lorenzo . , . . . . 138 i> St Pancrazio . . 117 » St Paolo 125 » St Sebastiano . . . 93 » Salara 161 » Septimiana 115-6 Portico of Octavia ... . Ill » Livia 72 Postal Notices 204 Praetorian Camp ....:.. 165 Protection of Animals . . . 205 Propaganda 131 Pyramid of Caius Cestius . . . 125 Quirinal Palace . Reservoir of Nero Regia Numai' . . Rocca di Papa Roma Quadrata . . Rospigliosi Palace Rostra PAGE . 132 86 . 57 . 184 . 64 133 . 53 Sala Regia 1 Scala Regia . . 5 Scala Santa 142 School of Xanta SI Scolch College 195 Sculptors— English and American. 195 Sessorium Palace 145 Sette Sale 85 Seven hills 25 Shops in the Forum . 58 Spada Gallery 108 Spanish Stairs ... 131 Spsliarium 86 Sistine Chapel 5 Stanze of Raphael .... .. 7 Stationes Municipiorum . ... 47 Tabularium . . ... i ... 38 Tarpeian Rock 23, 27 Temple of Antoninus Pius ... 42 j Anioninusand Fau stina .... 59 Apollo 66 » Cybele xxi » Castor and Pollux . 56 » , Ceres and Faustina 98 » Claudus . ... 87 » Concord 50 » Diefied Julius .... 57 » Flavian 165 » Fors Fortuna .¦ . . 119 » Fortue. 167 » Fortuna Virilis ... 119 ii Hercules 122 » Hope. . . ¦ . . . .113 » Juno 113 ii Jupiter Capitolinus 23 ii Jupiter Feretrius . 27 1 n Stator. ... 64 » » Viclor .... 65 » Mars Dltor ... .83 » ' Minerva Medica . . 139 XIII PAGE Temple of Pallas Minerva'. . . 82 » Peace 62 » Piety' 113 » Venus and Rome . 60 » Vespasian . ... 51 » Vesta . . . 56,122 ii Vestal Virgins . . 56 » Romulus .... 60 » Saturn . . . .51 The Sun . : 70 Theatres of Balbus 110 » Marcellus 112 ii . Pompey 109 Theatres in Rome 205 Throe Taverns 10 1 Tivoli 169, 187 Tomb of Attia Claudia .... : 43 » 0\ Attia . . 187 » Augustus . ... 105 > Bibulus 43 » Cecilia Metella 100 » Hadrian 16 » Helena . . ... 186 » Horace ¦ 138 » Mecaenas . . . 138 » Painted. . . ... 103 » Romulus' 99 ii Tasso 1 1 6 » The Raker 140 ii The Scipios ... 92 » Virginia 164 Tombs on the Appian Way 94, 101 Tor di Quinlo ... . 175 Torre dei Conti ... 84 .» della Scimmia. . 106 » delle Milizie 134 Tre Fontaue . , .... 126 Tres Taberae 102 Trophies of Marius . . . 24,138 Tusculum 184 United States College 195 Vatican Galleries ...... . 5 PllGE Vatican Museum 10 Via Appia .94 n Flaminia 1,64 » Latina 92, 103 ii Nomentana 162 » Nova Appia H'2 Numinis 184 Sacra 55 Triumphalis .... 74, 85 Villas, list of. » Albam » Borghese .... » Dliste » Gordian Emperors » Hadrian ... n Herodes Atticus ii Livia . ... ii Ludovisi . . » Madama . . . . » Medici . ii Mellini . . ii of Phann ... » of the Hens . » Painfili Doria . . . » Papa Giulio . . n Sallusl . . . ii Torlonia n Volkonsky . . Vigili dei VII Cohorti . . Views from Basilica of Constantine 62 » Capitol Tower » Colosseum . . . » Monte Mario . n Palatine Tower » Pincio . . » St Peter's Dome » St Pietro in Montorio 116 Vivarium 86 Valley of Egeria. . VoiiVallis Ferentina . Visitor's Directory Walls of Rome 200 161 157 189 187 189 98 175 161 176 1 8 177163 175 117 173 167 162 147 114 79 176 64 158 5 88 171, 175183 193 to 208 .... xv I^e m\\§ 4 j^mt Roma Quadrata. The city of Romulus upon the Palatine- hill was called from its shape Roma Quadi ata, it occupied the half of what we know as the Palatine and was surrounded by a wall built at the base of the hill and which can be still traced in part. It was formed of large blocks of tufa, hard stone, and must not be confounded with the remains of the Arcadian period, on the Palatine, composed of soft tufa. " Eomulus called the people to a place appointed, and de scribed a quadrangular figure about the hill, tracing with a plough, drawn by a bull, and a cow yoked together, one con tinued furrow, designed to receive the foundation of the wall." Dionysius Bk. 1 C. 88. ." He began to mark out the limits of his city from the Forum Boarium, so as to comprise within its limits the Great Altar of Hercules. The wall was built with Etruscan rights, being marked out by a furrow made by a plough drawn by a cow and a bull the clods being carefully thrown inwards, the plough being lifted over the profane places necessary for the gates. " Tacitus. When the Sabines were approaching to attack the Romans in revenge for carrying off their women. Romulus strengthen ed the wall of Roma Quadratta and the Capitoline hill was occupied as an outpost. " He raised the wall of the Palatine hill, by building higher works upon it, as a farther security to the inhabitants, ana sur rounded the adjacent hills, the Aventine, and that now called the Capitoline hill, with ditches and strong palisades." Dio nysius Bk. 2. C. 37. " The city was difficult of access, having a strong garrison on the hill where the Capitol now stands. " Plutarch Eomu lus C. 18. This was taken by Treachery and was not previously occupied by the Sabines, it was then called the hill of Saturn. "While the Sabines were passing at the foot of the Capi toline hill, to view the place, and see whether any part of the hill could be taken by surprise or force, they were observed from the eminence by a virgin " '• Tarpeia in execution of her promise, opened the gate agreed upon, to the enemy; and, calling up the garrison, desired they would save themselves. " ..." That, after the retreat of the gar rison, the Sabines, finding the gates open, and the place de serted possessed themselves of it. " Dionysius Bk. 2 C. 38-9. After peace was agreed upon the two kings reigned jointly and surrounded the Palatine and Capitoline with a wall, the other hills at this period were not walled, this is known as, The wall of Ihe Kings. Considerable portions of which still remain on the Palatine, under St. Anastasia and near the Forum of Augustus. The walls of Romulus and Tatius would naturally be of the same construction as the original wall pf Romulus, there could have been no difference in this short tfme. ' " Romulus and Tatius immediately enlarged the city;... Ro mulus chose the Palatine and Coelian hills and Tatius the Ca pitoline, which he had, at first possessed himself, of and the Qurinal hills. " Dionysius Bk. 2 C. 50. Numa erected the Temple of Vesta " between the Capito line and Palatine hills. For both these hills had, already, been incompassed with one wall; the Forum, in which this temple- was built, lying between them " Dionysius Bk. 2 C. 66. The other hills were inhabited and surrounded at different times with walls, forming fortresses outside the city for the defence of the city proper. Numa " enlarged the circuit of the city, by the addition of the Qurinal hill for, till that time, it was not inclosed with a wall. " Dionysius Bk. 2 0. 62. Ancius Marcius " made no small addition to the city, by in closing mount Aventine within its walls incompassed it with a wall, and a ditch; He also surrounded mount Janiculum with a wall " Dionysius Bk. 3 C. 44. Florus says '• He (Ancus Marcius) encompassed the city with a wall. " Again " What kind of a king was the archi tect Ancus? How fitted to extend the city by means of a colony, (Ostia) to unite it by a bridge, (the Subliciusi and secure it by a wall. " Xvii Agger of Servius Tullius. This seems to have been commenced by Tarquinus Priscus and completed by Servius Tullius and so called by his name. He (Tarquinus Priscus) was the first, who built the walls of the city (of which the structure was extemporary and mean) with stones, regularly, squared, each being a tun weight. Dio nysius Bk. 3. C, 68. ' " Tullius had surrounded the seven hills with one wall. " Dionysius Bk. 4. C. 14. The seven hills were not surrounded strictly speaking, each hill formed a bastion and walls or aggers were built accross the valleys, uniting these bastions. The Esquiline, Viminal and Quirinal being ridges jutting out of the table land and not isolated hills had one long agger built accross their necks. , " Some parts of these walls standing on hills, and being fortified by nature itself with steep rocks, required but few men to defend them; and others were defended by the Tiber " . . " The weakest part of the city is from the gate called Esqui- lina. to that named Collina, which interval is rendered strong by art. For there is a ditch sunk before it one hundred feet in breadth, where it is narrowest, and thirty in depth, on the edge of this ditch stands a wall, supported on the inside with so' high and broad a rampart, that it can neither be shaken i by battering rams, nor thrown down by undermining the foun- ' dations. This rampart is about 7 stadia in length and 50 feet in breadth. " Dionysius Bk. 9. C. 68. This grand agger can be traced almost in its entire extent; as also the smaller aggers. There seems to have been no wall, that is stone or earth fortification, between the Aventine and Capitoline, the Tiber being considered of sufficent defence. " The city, having no walls in that part next the- river, was very, near being taken by storm " Dionysius Bk 5. C. 23. when Lars Porsena advanced to attack the city after having taken the Janiculum intending to cross the river by the only bridge which as we know was defended by Horatius Codes and broken down by the Romans in his rear. The walls of Servius Tullius were strengthened at the time of the war with Gabii. " Tarquinius (Superbus) was particularly, active in taking these precautions and employed a great number of workmen in streng thening those parts of the city walls, that lay next to the town of G-abii, by widening the ditch, raising the walls, and increasing the number of the towers " Dionysius Bk. 4 C. 54. xviii" All the inhabited parts around it {the city) which are many, and large, are open, and without walls, and very much exposed to the invasion of an enemy. And,- whoever considers these building's, and desires to examine the extent of Rome, he will necessarily, be misled, for want of a certain boundary, that might distinguish the spot, to which the city extends, and where it ends; so connected are the buildings within the walls to those without, that they appear to the spectators like a city of an immense extent. Dionysius Bk. 4 C. 13. The walls of Aurelian. From the time of Servius to Aurelian the city though much enlarged had no -wall and was to all intents and purposes an open city, to continue our last quotation from Dionysius, who died B. C,. 7. this is evident. " But, if anyone is desirous to measure the circumference of it by the wall, which, though hard to be discovered by rea son of the buildings, that surround it in many places, yet preserves, in several parts of it, some traces of the ancient structure; and, to compare it with the circumference of the city of Athens, the circuit of Rome will not appear much greater, than that of the other. " Dionysius. Bk. 4. C. 13. The Pomcerium, or city' s 'bounds was enlarged as we know by several Emperors some of their cippi or boundry stones being still in situ; but there was no wall; they considered the Ri vers Tigris, Euphrates and Danube, the Desert and the Ocean as the walls of Rome. When he (Aurelian) saw that it might happen what had occurred under Gallienus, having obtained the concurrence of the Senate, extended the walls of the City of Rome " Vopi- scus in Aur. C. 21. " Thus also Rome was surrounded by walls which it had not before, and the wall begun by Aurelian was finished by Probus. " Zosimus L. 1 . C. 49. Other quotations might be given to show that Aurelian sur rounded Rome of the Empire with walls which it had not ' before his time. He incorporated into his wall everything that stood in his way. Tombs, Aqueducts, Palaces, Camps, and Amphitheatre. The arches of the Aqueducts being often turned, as we can see, into gates. It was commenced and finished' in nine years. XIX These present walls have been in part rebuilt, repaired, and strengthened at different intervals as occassion might require from the time of Honorius, who improved and added to the existing gates, to that of Totila who " resolved to raze Rome to the ground. " So of the circuit of the walls, he threw down as much in different places as would amount to about a third part "of the whole " Procopius B. C. L. III. C. 22. Belisarius " made hasty repairs " after which The Popes step in and take up the tale and put up inscriptions so that there should be no mistake about it. Leo IV built the walls of the Leonine city, to protect it from the Saracens, besides repairing the Aurelian walls. The Leonine walls can still be traced, the ruins standing boldly out in the landscape at the back of the Vatican. The present wall on the Trastevere side was built by In nocent X and Urban VIII. The complete circuit of the present walls is between 12 and 13 miles, containing 20 gates ancient and modern 9 of which are closed. Whilst the Romans considered the defences of the city to be the Tigris, Euphrates, Danube, Desert and Ocean their power was at its zenith; but when for the defence of their capital it was necessary to surround it with a wall, from then, must we date " the decline and fall of the Roman Empire. " Places of interest not included in the Rambles. St Agata in Suburra, the church were the heart of O'Con- nell is deposited. St Agostino in its piazza at the end of the Via della Scrofa, it contains 'a fresco by Raphael on the third pilaster on the left in entering. Isaiah and two angels holding a tablet. Also a statue of the Virgin and child. St Andrea della Valle, containing the four Evangelists by Domenichino on the angles of the Copula. The church is supposed to be built over the spot where Caesar fell. St Antonio Abate, beyond St Maria Maggiore, where the animals are blessed on Ji.nuary 17th. Catacombs of Sta Balbina beyond. St Callixtus. StPretex- tatus opposite St Callixtus. Mithraic adjoining. St Pontianus containing an ancient baptistery, outside Porta Portese. Santa Priscilla on the Via Salara. inquisition at the side of St Peter's near the Porta Ca- vallegieri. St Maria della Pace a church near the Piazza Navona containing Raphael's Sibyls. The Cumaean, Persian, Phryhian, Tiburtine, on the face of the arch in the first chapel on the right. St Maria in Vallicella , La Ghiesa Nuova , containing three paintings by Rubens, xxi Palace Muti-Papazurri in the Piazza SS. Apostoli the re sidence of Prince Charlie The Temple of Cybele (4) Omitted from page 65. On the Palatine hill. Dedicated by H. J. Brutus B. 0. 191 under the name of Mater Idea, mother of the Gods. " Cybele was not worshipped in Rome till A. TJ. C. 550 when the goddess, a stone, was brought from Pessinus a city of Phrygia by Scipio Nasica ". The vessel containing it having grounded at the mouth of the Tiber remained immovable till Claudia Quinta to prove her chastity after, calling upon the Goddess, with slight effort drew the ship to Rome. The form of the temple remains and part of the seated statue of the goddess, a beau tiful fragment, corresponding with her figure as represented on coins. IMPORTANT CORRECTIONS Page 7 Scala Regia read Sala Regia. » 24 line 2 for Pliny read Dionysius. » 57 fifth line from the bottom after very read spot. » 93 Columbria read Columbaria. » 183 Valla Ferentina read Vallis Ferentina. RAMBLES IN ROME NOTES RAMBLES IN ROME IVOTJES RAMBLES IN ROME NOTES RAMBLE I. -St. Peter's— The Sacristy— The Crypt— The Dome— The Vatican, Scala Regia, Sistine and Pauline chapels, Slanze and Loggie of Raphael, The Pinacotheca, The mosaic manufactury,— T7ie Museum— The Tomb of Hadrian, The Castle and Bridge of St. Angelo— The Pantheon —Sta Maria Sopra Minerva-— Collegio Romano—" The 6-esu" — The Base of the Tarpean RocJc—The Capitol ;Rome from the Tower — The Seven Hills — The Tarpean Roclc— Museum and Picture Gallery of the Capitol — The Tabularium, ST. PETER'S Before the era of railways, the traveller in approaching Rome, across the Campagna , was generally electrified by the first glimpse of St. Peter's dome looming in the distance. Then he had full time, in advance of entering the gates of the city, to ponder over all the recollections which the magical word " Roma " might suggest to him. At present he is rapidly borne into the city, and sometimes before he is aware of having arrived oven in its neighbourhood; yet the dome is plainly visible from afar by the railway approach of to-day. Now , as then, the first sight of Rome is always in her unequalled cathedral ; now, as then, the latter is the first object which the tourist eagerly hastens to visit. The present church of St. Peter is relatively modern, having been first conceived by Pope Nicholas V., about the year 1450. It is built upon the site of the religious edifice erected by Constantine, and consecrated 2 RAMBLES IN ROME by him as the "Basilica of St. Peter." The old Basilica * stood on part of the Circus of Nero , and was supposed to occupy the spot consecrated by the blood of the martyrs slaugh tered by order of that tyrant. Tradition supposes that it held possession of the body of the Apostle after his crucifixion , a circumstance which reflected high credit upon it, and digninea its entrance with the appellation of the "limina apostolorum (threshold of the apostles). After enjoying the veneration and tributes of all Christendom during eleven centuries , the walls of the old Basilica began to give way, and its approaching- ruin becoming visible about the year above stated, Nicholas V. conceived the project of taking down the old church, and erecting in its stead a new and more expensive structure. The project was begun, and resulted , after a long series ef expe riments made by various architects, in the splendid fabric which is now regarded by the world as the chief glory of modern Rome. The work made slight progress until the epoch of Julius II., who resumed the great task, and found in Bramante an architect capable of comprehending and executing his gran dest conceptions. The walls of the ancient Basilica were then wholly removed, and on the 18th of April, 1508, the founda- , tion stone of one of the vast pillars supporting the dome, as- we now see it, was laid by Julius with great pomp and ce remony. From that period, the work, though carried on with ardour and perseverance, continued during 100 years to occupy the attention and absorb much of the incomes of eighteen pontiffs. The most celebrated architects of the times displayed their talents in its erection, viz. : Bramante, Raphael, San Gallo, Michael Angelo, Vignola, Carlo Maderno, and last, though not least, Bernini, who gave it the final finishing touches of orna mentation, and who built the enclosing colonnade. It is esti mated that its cost after completion, was no less than L. 12,000,000 sterling — a sum representing far greater value than it does in our age. The proportions are as follows: length, 700 feet; transept, 500 feet; height, 440 feet; breadth: nave, 90 feet; height: nave, 154 feet. Eustace says : " Entering the piazza , the visitor views four rows of lofty pillars, sweeping off to the right and left in a bold semicircle. In the centre of the area formed by this immense colonnade, an Egyptian obelisk of one solid piece of granite ascends to the height of 130 feet; two perpetual foun tains, one on each side play in the air, and fall in sheets - * Basilica : a building which served as a court of _ law and exchange , or place of meeting for business men ; many of these buildings were afterwards uBed as Christian churches, and many churches were built after their model, and called basilicas, which name they retain to the present day. RAMBLE I. 3 round the basins of porphyry that receive them. Raised on three successive flights of marble steps, extending 400 feet in length, and towering to the elevation of 180, you see the majestic front of the Basilica itself. This front is supported by a single row of Corinthian pillars and pilasters, and adorned with an attic, a balustrade, and thirteen colossal statues. Far behind and above it rises the matchless dome. Two less cupolas, one on each side, add not a little to the majesty of the principal dome. Five lofty portals open into the vestibule ; it is 400 feet in length, 70 in height, and 50 in breadth, paved with variegated marble, coveredwith a gilt vault, adorned with pillars, pilasters, mosaic, and bas-reliefs, and terminated at both ends by equestrian statues, one of Constantine, the other of Charle magne. Opposite the five portals of the vestibule are the five doors of the church; three are adorned with pillars of the finest marble : that in the centre has panels of bronze. " ' Enter, its grandeur overwhelms thee not. ' " The most extensive hall ever constructed by human art expands in magnificent perspective before you. Advancing up the nave, you admire the beauty of the variegated marble under your feet, and the splendour of the golden vault overhead, the lofty Corinthian pilasters, with their bold entablature, the in termediate niches with their statues, the arcades with the graceful figures that recline on the curves of their arches. When you reach the foot of the altar, and, standing in the centre of the church: contemplate the four superb vistas that open around you, and then raise your eyes to the dome at the prodigious elevation of 400 feet, extending like a firmament over your head, and presenting, in glowing mosaic, the companies of the just, and the choirs of celestial spirits. " Around the dome rise four other cupolas, small indeed, when compared to its stupendous magnitude, but of great boldness when considered separately ; six more three on either side, cover the different divisions of the aisles, and six more of greater dimensions canopy as many chapels. All these inferior cupolas are, like the grand dome itself, lined with mosaics. Many, indeed, of the master-pieces of painting which formerly graced this edifice have been removed, and replaced by mosaics, which retain all the tints and beauties of the originals, impressed on a more solid and durable substance. The aisles and altars are adorned with numberless antique pillars, that border the churches all around, and form a secondary order. The variegated walls are, in many places, ornamented with festoons, wreaths, crosses, and medallions, representing the effigies of different pontiffs. Various monuments rise in different parts of the church exqui- 4 RAMBLES IN ROME site sculpture, and form very conspicuous features in the or nament of this grand temple. . , Below the steps of the altar, and of course some Qistan^ from it, at the corners, -on four massive pedestals, four twisiea pillars, 50 feet in height, rise, and support an entablature, w men bears the canopy itself, topped with a cross. The canopy is iau feet from the pavement. This brazen edifice, for so it may De called , was constructed of bronze stripped from the dome oi the Pantheon *, and is so disposed as not to obstruct the view by concealing the chancel and veiling the chair of St. -Peter. This ornament is also of bronze, and "consists of a group oi _ tour gigantic figures , representing the four principal doctors ol the Greek and Latin Churches supporting the chair, at an elevation of 70 feet. Under the high altar of St. Peter's is the tomb ot that apostle, the descent to which is in front, where a large open space leaves room for a double flight of steps. The rails that surround this space above are adorned with 112 bronze cornu- copiae, which support as many silver lamps, burning during the day, in honour of the apostle. Upon the pavement of the small area 'enclosed by the balustrade, is the kneeling statue of Pius VI., by Canova. THE SACRISTY is connected with St. Peter's by a long gallery, and is adorned with pillars, statues, paintings, and mosaics. Passing through a door under the monument of Pius VIII. There is a very rich collection of church plate and vestments, kept in the guarda- roba, which visitors should not fail to see. THE CRYPT Orders must be obtained of cardinal ^Monaco, Palazzo Al- temps. The entrance is at the side of the statue of Santa Veronica. It contains the tombs of the early popes , and also some old bas-reliefs, and some very ancient statues of St. Peter. Hadrian IV., the only English pope, is buried here, and also several distin guished historical characters, including "the last of the Stuarts." to whom there is a monument erected in the church, by order! of George IV., and executed by Canova. Immediately opposite is one to Maria Clementina Sobieski, through which is the entrance to * See page 17. RAMBLE I. 5 THE DOME, Orders must be obtained of Monsignor Theodoli, in the Sacristy, for visiting the dome, which is only open, without 'an order, on Thursdays, between 8 and 10 a. m. It is reached by a winding ascent. On the platform of the roof, the cupolas, domes, and pinnacles, are seen to advantage, and hence , by different staircases between the walls of the cupola, the ball is reached. During the ascent, a fine view may be obtained of the lower parts of the church, as well as of the mosaics and stuccos which embellish the interior of the dome, On reaching the summit, a panoramic view of Rome and the Campagna is had, quite repaying the labour of the ascent. THE VATICAN. From the vestibule of St. Peter's we see, to the fullest advan tage, the fine piazza, with the Vatican on our left, which . presents very much the appearance of a large factory. Having been erected by different architects in various eras, it has no systematic design, and is in fact a collection of palaces built by different popes. Gaining the entrance, which is at the bend of the colonnade, permission to visit the MUSEUM, GALLE RIES , LIBRARY , &c, must be obtained from Monsignor RiCci at Jiis office, between the hours of 10 and 1, thus enabling a party of five to pay a visit any day , except Sundays and festas, between 8 and 11 a. m. or 2 and 4 p. m., except the Museum, ivhich is closed between 2 and 4 p. m. on Monday and Thursday. The galleries are gained by. THE SCALA REGIA Built in the pontificate of Urban VIII., from the design of Bernini. The first flight is composed of Ionic columns, the second of pilasters. The ornamental stucco work is from the designs of Algardi. The equestrian statue of Constantine is by Bernini. On the first landing, a passage leads, to a small flight of steps. At the top, on the right, through a small red baize door, is the entrance to THE SISTINE CHAPEL, built by Sixtus IV. in 1473. It is celebrated for its paintings in fresco by Michael Angelo. The Roof, on the flat part are nine compartments illustrative 1st of the Separation of Light from Darkness; 2nd Creation 6 RAMBLES IN ROME of the Sun and Moon ; 3nd Land and Sea ; 4th. Adam ; 5th Eve ; 6th the Fall and Expulsion ; ( The figure of Eve is considered to be the most perfect painting, of the female form, in existence); 7th The Sacrifice of Noah; 8th The Deluge; 9th Noah inebriated. These are bordered by sitting figures of Prophets & Sibyls, (over the altar), Jonah, (on the left), Joel, the Sibyl Erithrsea, Exekiel, the' Sibyl Persica, Jeremiah and Zakariah. ( On the right), The Sibyl Lybica, Daniel, the Sibyl Cumsea, Isaiah and the Sibyl Delphica. The four corners are , Moses lifting up the Brazen Serpent. King Artaxerxes , Esther, and Haman. David and Goliath, Judith and Holofernes. In the arches over the windows and in the recesses. History of the virgin down to the birth of Jesus. The walls. Behind the altar is the groat fresco of Michel Angelo , representing the Last judgment. Designed by him when only sixteen and completed in eight years. At the top is our saviour with the Virgin seated on his right, above angels bearing "the instruments of the passion. On one side of our Lord are Saints and Patriarchs, and on the other martyrs. Below, group of Angles sounding the last trump and bearing the books of judgment ; on the right is represented the fall of the condemned ; Charon ferrying some across the River Styx, striking the tulmutuous with his oar. The figure in the right. hand corner representing Midas with ass's ears, is Messer Biagio of Cesena, the Pope's Master of the ceremonies who said the nude figures were indecent; on which account the Pope ordered Daniele da Volterra to cover them with drapery, which obtained for him the cognomen of Braghettone (breechbs- maker). Michael Angelo said " let the Pope reform the world, and the pictures will reform themselves. " And to spite Biagio he represented him in hell, wherewith he complained to the Pope in order to have his figure removed. The pope replied that as he was in hell he must stop there, as he had no power to release from hell, but from purgatory. On the left the blessed are ascending to heaven assisted by Angels and saints.- Bet-ween'ithe wincloivs, Portraits of the popes of the time, by the Artist of the subject below. The lower part of the walls are painted in imitation of drapery. On the side tvalls are scenes of the life of Moses typical of the life of Our Lord. On Entering. RAMBLE I. TYPE Moses andZipporah going down into Egypt; by Luca Signorelli. Moses slaying the Egyptian, Driving away the Shepherds. The Lord ap pearing in the burning bush; by San- dro Botticelli. Pharaoh overwhelmed in the Red sea ; by Cosimo RosselU. Moses re ceiving the tables of the law ; de struction of the Golden Calf;j by Cosimo RosselU. Destruction of Korah; Dalhan and Abiram, and the sons of Aaron ; by Sandra Botticelli. Death of Moses, Reading of the [aw, by Luca Signorelli. Archangel bearing away the body of Moses, * by Francesco Salviati. FULFILMENT Baptism of Christ in Jordan; by Perugino. Our Lord being tempted ; by San- dro Botticelli. Christ calling Peter and Andrew; by Dom Ghirlandajo. The sermon on Ihe Mount ; by Cosimo RosselU. Christ giving unto Peler "The Keys of tbe Kingdom of heaven " Matthew XVI. V 19; by Perugino. The Last Supper, by Cosimo Ros selU. Christ's Resurrection ; by Dom Ghirlandajo. Apply to the custodi of the Sixtine Chapel to visit the Pauline Chapel, which is entered from the SCALA REGIA. Built as an audiance hall for the ambassadors to the Papal Court. It is decorated with frescoes representing different im portant events in Papal History. THE PAULINE CHAPEL, was erected by Paul III. ; its walls are painted in fresco, the conversion of St. Paul and the execution of St. Peter being by Michael Angelo. The painted roof and the portraits of 28 popes are by Lorenzo Sabatini and Federigo Zucchero. Retracing our steps through the Sistine chapel, and going up a narrow stair, we enter, through a small door, two rooms containing * This is not scriptural, see Deut XXXIV, V 6. " And he buried him in a Valley in the land of Moab, over against Bethpeor : But no man knoweth of his sepulchre unto this day. " 8 RAMBLES IN ROME Modebn Paintings. First Room 3. Beatitude of Benedict of Urbino, Capucin, in 1875 — Guido Guidi. 2. Beatitude of Peter Canisio, Jesuit, in 1864. — Ceasar Fracassini Roman. 3. St. Leonard of Porto Maurizio— 1839 Adrian Becchio. 4. Beatitude of Margaret of the five wounds— Neapohti an - 1867 Chiari. 5. Beatitude of Peter Arbues , Spanish inquisition — 1867 . Mauretti. 6. S. Paul of the Cross, wapped in extacy— 1867, Coghetti, Roman. 7. St. Germana Cousin— 1853, Jojetti. 8. Saints Martyred in Japan — 1862, Carta. 9. Beatitude of Josaphat Postemspki — 1867. Second Room. 10. Saints Martyred in Corcum in the Neatherlands, Caesar Fracassini. His masterpiece, a very fine work of art. It has been successfully photographed by Messrs Alinari and Cook 90 Corso. 11. Beatitude of Mary of the Angels— 1865, Stohden. 12. Beatitude John Berchmans Jesuit, Peter Gagliardi 1864. 13. Beatitude of Margaret Alacoque — 1865, Frank Podesti. 13. Three Jesuits Martyred in Japan— Pater Gagliardi. 15. Beatitude of Peter Sarcander — 1864, Frank Grandi. 16. Saints Martyred in Japan — 1867, Beggia. 17. Beatitude of John of God of the Congregation Fate bene fratelli — 1873, Sozzi. 18. S. Michael de' Sanctis Jojetti— 1862. 19. Beatitude of the canon John de' Rossi Dies— 1861. 20. Beatitude of John De' Britto — Pater Gagliardi, 1853. Passing from these ive go into the saloon of Podesti con taining frescoes relating to the dogma of the immaculate con ception. Thence we pass into the STANZE OR CAMERE OF RAPHAEL. consisting of four rooms designed by Raphael and completed by his pupils, after his death. The principal frescoes IN THE FIRST ROOM are the Incendio di Borgo, Justi fication of Leo III., Victory of Leo IV., over the Saracens at Ostia. and Coronation of Charlemagne. ' RAMBLE I. 9 SECOND ROOM: — Illustrative of Theology, Poetry, Philo sophy, and Jurisprudence. Representing The fall of Man, The Flaying of Marsyas, The study of the Globe, The judgement of Solomon; on the ceiling. On the walls corresponding ; The dispute of the Sacrament, The Parnassus, The school of Athens, which gives its name to the room, Prudence, Fortitude and, Temperance. THIRD ROOM: — The Miraculous expulsion of Heliodorus from the Temple, the Mass of Bolsena,-Attila driven back from Rome by Leo I. St. Peter's release from prison, notice the four different lights here. The ceiling represents subjects from the old Testament. FOURTH ROOM: — Battle between Constantine and Ma- xentius at the Ponte Molle, Baptism of Constantine, Rome presented by Constantine to Silvester, the Cross appearing to Constantine. The dwarf is Gradasso da Norcia , from Berni's Poetry. The Pagan statue thrown down represents the Triumph of Faith, by Lauretti. A door, leads into the Anticamera of the Stanze, originally painted by Raphael, restored by Carlo Maratta, Out of this room is the. CHAPEL OF SAN LORENZO The frescoes are by Fra Angelico, representing events in the lives of Saints Stephen and Lawrence. On the ceiling are the four Evangelists. It was built as the private chapel of Ni cholas V and is the oldest decorated portion of the Vatican. We now pass into. THE LOGGIE OF RAPHAEL To the right on entering. " It is impossible either to execute or imagine a more beau tiful work " Vasari. It is called Raphael's Bible. It is divided into 13 arcades , each containing four subjects of Scripture history. 1st, the creation of the world, by Raphael. 2nd, history of Adam and Eve. 3rd, The history of Noah , by Giulio Ro mano. 4th, Abraham and Lot. 5th, History of Isaac by Penni. 6th, Jacob, by Pellegrino. 7th, Joseph. 3rd, Moses, by Giulio Romano. 9tti, Moses bv Raffaelle del Cblle. 10th, Joshua. 11th, David, by Pierino"del Vaga. 12th, Solomon, by Pelle- frino. 13th, from the New Testament by Giulio Romano. he stucco ornaments and arabesque work are by Giovanni da Udine from Raphael's designs, who took the idea from the Baths of Titus. 10 RAMBLES IN ROME The other sides were builh by Gregory XIII and executed by Giovanni da Udine ; have recently Deen restored by Man- tovani; the further one parallel with the papal apartments is where His Holiness gives audiance. A flight of stairs on the left leads to the upper Loggie , painted with maps and landscapes (now undergoing restorations Entrance to the picture Gallery, ring the bell at the 2nd door on the left of the central loggie. THE PINACOTHECA a gallerv formed by Pius VII., containing, amongst other paintings, the Transfiguration, tbe Annunciation, the Corona tion of the Virgin, Madonna di Foligno by Raphael, the Last Communion of St Jerome by Domenichio, Virgin and Child by Sassoferrato, Virgin and Saints by Guido Reni. As the Artist's name and the subject is painted on the frame of each picture, (a hint some of the other galleries might adopt,) it will be unnecessary to give a complete catalogue of them. THE MOSAIC MANUFACTORY Orders must be obtained from the Rev Monsigr Theodoli at the Vatican. It is entered by a corridor from the ground floor at the left hand comer of the Court of S. Damaso. The mosaics in St. Peter's, St Paul's and other churches are manufactured here; some of them taking a long time to execute, as great patience and art are required in blending the shades <&c, upwards of 10,000 different shades of the coloured enamel being kept in stock. NOTE. As ive are treating of the Vatican, our description of the MUSEUM is inserted here; but as it is only opened part of the day , and at inconveient hours , it has been found necessary to visit it in another Ramble, No. 6. THE VATICAN MUSEUM. Open Every day from 8 till 11 and from 2 till 4 except on Monday and Thursday afternoons when it is closed. Permissions must be obtained of Monsignor Ricci at his office in the Vatican from 10 till 1 Each permit admits a party of 5 and can only be used once. Entrance by going round at the back of St. Peter's, thus enabling us on our way to admire the vast proportions of the RAMBLE I. II latter. The Vatican Museum was founded by Julius II., and consists of those objects of art that have been discovered, and which once graced the principal buildings of ancient Rome. At the entrance the new official English catalogue by Signor Massi The Conservateur of the galleries , can be purchased ; it gives a full account of the objects of art. Sometimes the public are admitted at the top of the Chia- ramonti Corridor, in which case it is advisable to reverse the order of seeing the Museum. Entering the iron gates, filled in with glass, on the left, and ascending the marble stairs, on the landing to the right, is the entrance to THE EGYPTIAN MUSEUM Formed by Gregory XVI, from Egypt, and Egyptian remains dispersed in the s veral museum of Romo. It comprises a hall of monuments, hall of the imitations executed by Roman and Greek Artists, and several cabinets containing many interesting objects. Ascending the stairs we reach. THE HALL OP THE BIGA adorned with several beautiful works of ancient art, the prin cipal of which is the Biga or chariot only the body of which is ancient, it for a long time served as an episcopal throne in the church of St. Mark, in Rome. The torso of the right horse was a gift of Prince Borghese, the additions and restorations are by Franzoni. The long corridor is called. THE GALLERY OF THE CANDELABRA divided into six compartments containing, Cups, Vases, Sarco phagi, Statues. Candelabras etc. From this we enter. THE GALLERY OF TAPESTRIES * containing copies of Raphael's cartoons. Woven in Flanders by order of Leo X to adorn the Sixtine Chapel. This leads to THE GALERY OF MAPS * representing the provinces of Italy the work of Ignazio Dante of. Perugia. The ceiling is decorated with paintings from the Old and New Testaments. THE ETRUSCAN MUSEUM Entered from the landing ot the Hall of the Biga, is com posed of various works of art brought from the ancient towns of Etruria. Descending the- stairs we enter. * Only to be visited with special permission. 12 RAMBLES IN ROME THE HALL OF THE GREEK CROSS In the centre of the floor is a splendid mosaic, found at the Villa of Cicero. A Bust of Minerva forms the centre , around which are the twelve planets and various phases of the moon, The outer circle (modern) is composed of masks and figures. The principal statues are 559 and 597, Augustus. 564, Lucius Verus. 565 Hercules. 574, Venus of Cnidos, 566 Red Porphyry Sarcophagus which contained the remains of Constantia the daughter of Constantine the Great, 589 opposite, contained the remains of Helena the mother of the Christian Emperor. Be fore the door is a fine mosaic representing a Faun watering a flower. At the foot of the stairs, by two Sphinxes is a beautiful basket of flowers in mosaic. We now enter THE ROTUNDA Erected by Simonetti by order of Pius VI. In the centre is a magnificent vase of red porphyry, 46 feet in circumference, found in the Baths of Titus. The large mosaic represents combats between, Centaurs and Lapithae, and Nymphs carried on the backs of monsters, in the centre under the vase, is the head of Medusa. The border represents the adventures of Ulysses, Neptune and monsters. The principal statues are 537 — 8 Tragedy and Comedy, 539 Jupiter, 540 Antinous , 544 Hercu les, in gilt bronze, found in 1854 on restoring the foundations of the Biscioni Palace, which occupies the site of the Theatre of Pompey in the middle of which stood the temple of Venus Victrix, which this statue adorned. We now pass into THE HALL OF THE MUSES Containing Statues of Muses, busts of Greek Philosophers Poets and Statesmen, all of which deserve special attention. Passing into THE HALL OF THE ANIMALS. The principal objects of interest are 124. Mithraic Sacrifice found at Ostia in the temple dedicated to the worship of the Persian Diety. 139 Commodus on Horseback. 143 Sleeping shepherd. 228 Triton. We next enter. THE GALLERY OF STATUES In the centre of the Gallery is a magnificent bath of the finest Oriental Alabaster. 250 Cupid. 255 Paris. 259 Minerva. 261 Penelope. 264 Apollo, found on the Palatine Hill in 1727. RAMBLE I. 13 265 Amazon. 267 Drunken Faun. 271 390 Posidippus and Me- nander two Greek comedians. The further end of this gallery is called. THE HALL OF BUSTS. 272. Antoninus Pius. 280-1 Augustus. 285 Caracalla. 293 fluten column of nero antico africano, surmounted by the head of a satyr. 311 Menelaus, a beautiful helmeted head. 326 co lossal statue of Jupiter. 376 Minerva. 591 Nero. 595 Dido. 414 Ariadne sleeping on a rock, Adjoining is the small. CABINET OF MASKS. So called from the mosaic pavement found in Hadrian's Villa, the ceiling is by Domenico De Angelis, representing the mar riage of Bacchus and Ariadne, Diana contemplating Endymion, Paris refusing Minerva the apple, Adonis and Venus. 427 Fe male Dancer. 429' The Venus of the Vatican. 433 Faun. 443 Adonis. We now enter the. COURT OF THE BELVEDERE. r Supported by 16 columns having a fountain in the centre' It is adorned with Baths,. Urns, Sarcophagi , Statues, Columns, Basrelief and Medallions. The four corners of the Court are oc cupied by Cabinets in the following order commencing on the left. MERCURY OF THE BELVEDERE. A most valuable piece of antique Greek sculpture, found near the Baths of Titus in 1779. On the walls are Basreliefs re presenting a combat between Amazons and Athenians , and a sacred procession. 56 Priapus the god of orchards, 57 Hercules. Second. CANOVER'S CABINET, Containing three splendid works by this great modern ma ster. Perseus with the head of Medusa. The two Boxers, Creugas ^defence), Damoxenus (attack). Third cabinet. APOLLO BELVEDERE. One of the finest masterpieces of ancient Greek sculpture , discovered at Porto d'Anzio towards the close of the 15th cen tury, Apollo in the attitude of having just slain the serpent Python. It is beautifully described by Byron in Child Harold. Fourth 14 RAMBLES IN ROME GABINET OF THE LAOCOON. Found in the Baths of Titus in 1856. Pliny (Bk XXXVI c 4) thus describes it. " A work which may be considered superior to all others both in painting and statuary. The whole group, the father, the boys,, and the awful folds of the serpents, were formed out of a single block, (Michel Angelo said, and it nas since been proved, that it is in three pieces) by Agesanaer, Polydorus, and Athenodorus, natives, of Rhodes. We now enter the ROOM OF THE MELEAGER. The hero sung of by Greek and Latin Poets. Found in the year 1500 outside the Porta Portese. 20 The loves of .Eneas and Dido. 17 inscription relating to the foundation of the temple of Horculi Victori by the consul Mummius. THE ROUND VESTIBULE. In the centre a basin of pavonazzetto. On the Balcony a very rare ancient compass, found in 1770 near the Colosseum. The view from here, has given to this balcony the name BELVEDERE. It commands a beautiful panoramic scene of Rome and the campagnia, bounded by the distant Alban, and Sabine hills. VESTIBULE. The grey tufa sarcophagus , was discovered- in the Tomb of the Scipio's on the Via Appia in 1780. It contained the re mains of Scipio Barbatus. When it was opened 2000 years after his death, the skeleton was found entire with a ring upon one of the fingers, the ring passed into the hands of the Earl of Beverley : and the bones were removed to Padua by the Venetian Senator Angelo Quirini. On the wall are other inscriptions found in the tomb. THE TORSO. Of Hercules the work of Apollonius son of Nestor of Athens. Found near the Theatre of Pompey. It is considered to be the most perfect resemblance to human flesh, and was greately admired by Raphael and Michael Angelo, the latter declaring that he was its pupil. Descending the stairs toe reach. RAMBLE I. 15 THE CHIARAMONTI CORRIDOR. Containing numerous monuments of Greek and Roman Art. The principal objects of interest are ; 6 Autumn , 13 Winter , 62 Hygeia, 121 Clio, 124 Drusus, 175 Niobe in her flight from Diana, 182 Altar of Gabii, 197 Pallas, 241 Juno sucklin a Child, 287 A sleeping Fisher Boy, 294 Hercules, 312 Gladiator , 343 A. Brutus, 352 Venus, 358 A Captive King, 400-494 Tiberius, 401 Augustus, 416 The Young Augustus, 422 Demosthenes, 495 Cupid by Praxiteles , 510 Ariadne , 544 Silenus 547 Isis , 635 Hercules, 682 Antoninus Pius, 686 Tuccia, carrying water in a sieve froih the Tiber to the temple of Vesta, to prove her chastity, 698 Cicero. On the right we enter. THE " NUOVO BRACCIO. " Built by Pius VII in 1817 from the designs of Stern. The floor is composed of ancient mosaics and worthy of notice. The chief objects of interest are : 5 Caryatide, supposed to be one of those which supported the portico of the Pandreseium at Athens, 8 Commodus, 9 Captive Dacian King, 11 Silenus, 14 Augustus, found in 1863 in the Ruins of the Villa of Livia at Prima Porta, 23 Pudicitia, the Goddess of Modesty, 26 Ti tus, 38 Ganymedes , the cup-bearer of Jupiter , 44 Wounded Amazon, 50 Diana, 53 Euripides, 62 Demonsthenes, 67 Athlete in the act of cleaning his arm with a stringil, the die, which he holds in his other hand is an erroneous modern addition. 71 Amazon , 77 Antonia , the wife of Drusus the Elder , 86 Fortune, 96 A. Marcus Antonius, 109 The Nile, Allegorical of the 16 cubits at which the rise of the river begins to irri gate the land, one of the finest works of art in the Vatican , found near the church of Minerva, 111 Julia, daughter of Titus, 114 Minerva, 123 Lucius Verus , 129 Domitian, 132 Mercury. Passing through the iron gates we enter. THE CORRIDOR OF INSCRIPTIONS. * the wall of which are adorned with 3000 Pagan and 1100 Christian inscriptions brought from various catacombs and ce- metories. A Door on the right conductus us to. THE LIBRARY. * Founded by Sixtus V and contains 120,000 Volumes , of which 25,000 are MSS. The magnificent great hall is 220 ft long and contains many objects of interest, notably , two fine Candelabra of Sevres china presented to Pius VII by Napo- * Only to be visited with special permission. 16 RAMBLES IN ROME leon I, a vase of Malachite and another of immense size pre sented by Prince Demidoff; two vases of Meissen Yf™e~ Iain china, presented by Napoleon III to Pius IX alter it naa been used as the font in the baptism of the Prince imperial. , A beautiful basin of Aberdeen granite presented by the iMKe . of Northumberland. THE CHRISTIAN MUSEUM is composed of a collection of lamps, glass vessels, gems, etc., found in the Catacombs. In the room beyond is a very in teresting collection of Byzantine and Mediaeval Italian paintings, a Russian Calendar, and other interesting objects, at the end of this vesta of rooms, is a full-length seated portrait of Pius IX painted on glass at Aix la Chapelle. Passing down the Borgo Nuovo, we gain the Piazza del Plebiscito, and before us is the ancient TOMB OF HADRIAN NOW THE CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO. It was covered with white Paros marble and decoratea with statues of the Gods and Heros , the works of Praxiteles and Lysippus, which were hurled upon the heads of the Goths. Erected by Hadrian A. D. 130. The Porphery Sarcophagus which is supposed to have contained his remains is now used as the font in the chapel on the left in St Peter's. Procopius thus describes it. " The tomb of the Emperor Hadrian is situated outside the Porta Aurelia. It is built of Parian marble, and the blocks fit close to one another, without anything to bind them. It has lour equal sides, about a stones throw in length; its altitude rises above the city walls; on the top are statues of the same kind of marble, admirable figures of men and horses. " Lucius Verus , Antoninus Pius , Marcus Aurelius , Commodus , and Septimus Severus, were all buried here. It was first turned into a fortress A. D. 423. Popes John XXIII and Urban VIII built the covered way connecting it with the Vatican. One of the barack rooms contains frescoes by Pierino del Vaga and Sicciolante; another by Giulio Romano: A circular room sur rounded with carved wood cases once contained the archives of the Vatican. A large iron-bound chest contained the tresury. Some dark cells built in the thickness of the walls are shown as the prisons of Beatrice Cenci, Cellini, Cagliastro and others. Tradition asserts that Gregory the Great saw St Michael standing RAMBLE I. 17 over the fortress sheathing his sword; as a sign that a pesti lence was stayed. To commemorate which it is now surmounted by a figure of the Arch Angel in the act of sheathing his sword. This old castle served for a fortress during several ages, and its first cannon were cast out of part of the bronze taken from the roof of the Pantheon. Immediately in front of the Castle is the BRIDGE OF ST. ANGELO, which is decorated with ten angels standing on the parapet; bearing the instruments of our Lord's passion : and St Peter and Paul, an addition made in 1668 by Clement the IX it is the finest bridge in Rome, and was built by Hadrian. Going along the Via de Coronari, (no 124 was the House. formerly the residence of Raphael;) following the via di Co- pelle and turning to the right down the via Maddalena, we arrive at THE PANTHEON. This incomparable circular edifice, originally intended by Agrippa to form the conclusion of his Thermae, * with which it is intimately connected, is one of the noblest and most per fect productions of that style of architecture specifically deno minated Roman. When the first wonderful creation of this species came into existence, the founder of this glorious dome appears to have himself shrunk back from it, and to have felt that it was not adapted to be the everyday residence of men, but to be a habitation for the gods. " It is as difficult to reconcile the statements of different authors respecting the original idea of Agrippa, as it is hazar dous to attempt to prove the successive metamorphoses which the plan, sketched by the artist, has undergone. This much is, however, certain, that with respect to the modern transfor mation of the whole, the consequences have been most melan choly and injurious. The combination of the circular edifice with the rectilinear masses of the, vestibule, notwithstanding all the pains bestowed, and the endless expenditure of the most costly materials, has been unsuccessful ; and the original design of the Roman architect has lost much of its significance , or, at all events, of its phrenological expression, by being united with ordinary Grecian forms of architecture, which in this place loose great part of their value. No one previously unacquainted * Warm Baths, which were destined for Public use only. 2 18 RAMBLES IN ROME with the edifice could form an idea , from the aspect of the portico, of that wondrous structure behind , which must ever be considered as one of the noblest triumphs of the human mind over matter in connection with the law of gravity. " Conflagrations, earthquakes, sacrilegious human hands, ana all the injuries of time, have striven together in vain lor tne destruction of this unique structure. It has come oft victorious in every trial ; and even now, when it has not only been strip ped of its noblest decorations, but, what is still worse been decked out with idle and unsuitable ornaments, it still stands- in all its pristine glory and beauty. " " In order to obtain a notion of the size and solid excellence of- the work, it will be well first to make the circuit of the entire edifice. We shall thus have an opportunity of admiring the fine distribution of, the different masses. After the first circular wall or belt, which rests upon a base of travertine, has attained a height of nearly forty feet, it is finished off with a simple cornice, serving as a solid foundation for the second belt. As a preservative against sinking, this is moreover pro vided with a series of larger and smaller construction-arches, alternating symmetrically with one another. After rising some thirty feet, further solidity is given to the wall, by a girdle suitably decorated with consoles; and on this the third belt (which is but a few feet lower) is supported. A similar number of the arches already mentioned , introduced as frequently as possible, enables this wall to support the weight pressing upon it; and to raise the harmoniously rounded cupola boldly aloft. " " In ancient times , the whole bulding , which is composed of brick, was covered and embellished with a coating of stucco. On the upper cornice, at the back, between the consolos, por tions of terra-cotta decorations still remain, seeming to have formed part of this ornamental facing. " " In our examination of the interior we are, unfortunately, much hindered in our attempt to investigate the constructive connection of the whole, by the unmeaning ornamental addi tions, and the thoughtless transformation of the different or ganic masses. " " So much, however, may be discovered even on a superficial survey, viz : that the architect has everywhere endeavoured not merely to diminish the pressure on the walls of the lower belt, (which is nearly 20 ft. thick), by inserting hollow chambers, but has given them additional strength by means of the vaulted constructions thus introduced. A hall, supported on pillars, lies between each of the eight modern altars, and behind each of them, on the outside, are niches, reached through the different- doors , recurring at regular distances throughout. " RAMBLE I. 19 " The cupola is nearly 70 ft. iti height, and rests on the attica corresponding to the second outer belt. This attica has suffered most severely from modern alterations. The walls behind this afford space for a series of chambers. The massive wall of the third belt, on the other hand, surrounding the cupola to a third of its height , is rendered accessible by a passage running round the whole ; and this again is spanned by fre quently recurring arches, and lighted by the windows visible on the outside. " " The diameter of the cupola is nearly equal to its height. The round aperture at the top, by means of which the interior is lighted with a magical effect, measures about 40 ft. in dia meter. Here is still to be seen the last and only remnant of the rich bronze decorations of which this edifice formerly boa sted. It consists of a ring adorned with eggs and foliage, encircling the aperture, and not merely strengthening the edge of the wall, but constituting a graceful, and, at the same time, a simple and judicious ornament. " _ " It is certain that the five converging rows of gradually diminishing cassettoni have been decorated in a similar man ner, and it is stated that vestiges of metal were discovered during the process of whitewashing. " " The six niches between the altars are each supported by two fluted pillars, and a corresponding number of pilasters. The greater portion of these are composed of monoliths of that costly yellow marble frequently employed by the ancients They are more than thirty two feet in height; and, as regards size, are unique of their kind. It has been impossible even for the ancients to erect, of this rare material, all the pillars required for the embellishment of this splendid edifice ; for which reason, they were obliged to substitute six of pavonazzetto. These , however, they stained, without injuring the brilliancy of the marble or the transparency of the grain, in such a manner as to bring them into harmony with the other yellow masses, and to deceive even the most practised eye. This circumstance is of great importance in forming an opinion on the coloured architecture of the Greeks; as it shows how they contribed to harmonize the white marble masses without concealing the texture of the noble material. " It is stated by Pliny that caryatides were placed here by a certain Diogenes of Athens corresponding to the pillars which support the architrave. Apparently they were a free repetition of the caryatides of the Pandrosion ; and, probably, the statue in the Braccio Nuovo which was brought from the Palazzo Paganica , in the imme diate neighbourhood of the Pantheon . was one of these , the scale being precisely adapted to this situation. 20 RAMBLES IN BOME The slabs of coloured marble belonging to the attica were carried off some 100 years ago , under Benedict XIV., and their place supplied by the present coulisse paintings. This polychrome system would have greatly facilitated our researches into the coloured architecture of the ancients ; and its loss is therefore much to be regretted. For, although this portion of the edifice was thus transfor med at a comparatively late period, still the effect of those finely harmonized masses must have been a remarkable one. To judge from the combination of coloured stones .still re maining in this edifice, the effect must have been very rich and beautiful. The .elaborate capitals and bases of white marble must have formed a fine contrast to the yollow shafts of the pillars and the stripe of porphyry inserted in the architrave. The largest specimen of this coloured mode of decoration has been preserved in the pavement ; although here also we must take it for granted that the original arrangement has been disturbed : the sunken bases of the columns sufficing to prove that the pavement has been raised in course of time. This circumstance is not without optical reaction on the proportions of the different masses. The horse-shoe arch over the entrance door is remarkable. It forms a striking contrast to that of the tribune, where the projecting cornice rests upon two pillars; whereas the architrave , broken through by the door- way , is supported only by pilasters. The aediculre , now converted into altars , are covered, in , partly with gables partly with arches ; the former resting upon fluted pillars of yellow marble, the latter upon porphyry pillars. The walls behind are likewise faced with slabs of coloured marble, which, in their original splendour, must have reflected the magnificence of the pillars. " The facing of the door is the only considerable portion still remaining of the rich bronze-work with which this edifice was formerly fitted up. Simple as the decoration of these mas sive doors now appears, it is yet imposing for such persons as are capable of appreciating pure symmetry and a judicious distribution of the parts in surfaces so extensive. The nails, with heads in the form of rosettes , separating the different panels, are the only ornament. The window above the door is closed by a grating composed of curves placed one above the other, thus admitting both light and air. The destruction of the bronze cross-beams which formed the roof of the vesti bule till the time of Urban VIII., is most to be regretted. This was composed of bronze tubes , on precisely the same principle as that on which Stepenson a few years ago con structed the bridge over the Menai Straits. " RAMBLE I. 21 " ?i?me of the larg0 nails used *n r>vetting the bronze plates together, are still perserved in the different museums. We are indebted to Serlio, an architect of the 16th century, who pre served a drawing of it, for the only information we possess concerning this ingenious piece of mechanism. The pope men tioned above, a member of the Barberini family, had the bar barity to carry off and met down these important remains. An inscription on the left of the principal door, celebrates the judicious transformation of these masses of bronze into can nons and ornaments for churches. " Urban VIII " That the useless and almost forgotten deco rations might become ornaments of the apostle's tomb in the Vatican temple, and eugines of public safety in the fortress of St Angelo, he moulded the ancient relics of the bronze roof into columns and cannons, in the 12 year of his Pontificate. " " What the barbarians did not the Barberini did. " " On each side of the entrance to the Rotunda, are two im mense niches, constructed of brick, in which the colossal statues of Augustus and Agrippa are supposed to have been placed. This opinion seems to me too hazardous, and contrary to the spirit of these two eminent statesmen. " " Standing among the sixteen granite pillars supporting the vestibule , we feel that there is something overpowering in the impression it produces. This, however diminishes when we step out upon the piazza, which lies too high. At its original level, a flight of five steps led up to the building ; and the effect when viewed from a distance must have been essentially different, as we may judge from the portion of pavement which has been excavated to the right of the Rotunda. " — Braun. Raphael's tomb is in the third chapel on the left. Resuming our ramble along the Via Minerva we reach the church of STa. MARIA SOPRA MINERVA. so named from being on the site of the Temple of Minerva , dedicated by Pompey. The only Gothic church in Rome. The interior is highly decorated in the Gothic style. 2nd Cha pel on right tomb of Princess Colonna. 4th , the Chapel of the "Annunciation. 5th. Aldobrandini Chapel. The next chapel contains a slab to a son of the late Bishop of Minchester who joined the Roman catholic church and died at Albano 1857. The picture of the Annunciation oven the Altar, the St Thomas and, The Assumption are fine. The roof represents 4 sibyls surrounded by Angels by Raf- faellino del Garbo. The Altieri chapel contains an altar piece 22 RAMBLES IN ROME by C Maratta. Next is the Tonib of Guillaume Durand with a very fine mosaic. On the left of High Allar statue of Our Saviour by Michel Angelo. Interesting to English Visitors is the tomb of Cardinal Howard. Great Almoner of England who died at Rome 1694. The body of St Catherine of Siena reposes beneath the High altar. In the sacristy is a chapel formed from the walls of the room in which St Catherine died 1380. The Festival of St Thomas Aquinas March 7th and of tne Annunciation March 25th are celebrated here with great cere mony. The Monastery attached, is the head-quarters of the Domi nicans and in it was tried Galileo " for asserting- that the World revolved round the sun in opposition to Holy Writ. " The Libeaet is open every day from 7, 30, to 11, A. M. and from 3 to 5 P. M. On the Facade are some curious inscriptions referring to the height of the floods caused by the Tiber from 1422. The obelisk, in the piazza, placed by Bernini on the back of an elephant the work of B Ferrata, was found in 1665 with the one in the piazza of the Pantheon it is of the reign of Hophres, a King of the 26th Dynasty. Passing along_ the Via del Pie di Marmo ive reach the Piazza in which is situated The Collegio Romano, till recently the Head-quarters of the Jesuits. It has been sequestered by (lhe Italian Government KIRCHERIAN MUSEUM, in the Collegio Romano, was under the Jesuits only open on Sundays and Festas, from 10 till 11 and Ladies were not admitted then. Now it is re-opened by the Government. November to April every Sunday , Tuesday , Thursday and Saturday from 10 to 3. May to October every Sunday , Tuesday and Thursday from 9 till 1 admission one lira, Sundays free. It contains several antiques illustrating Roman and Etruscan customs. In 'the second room are the principal treasures — Roman coins, cast and unstamped; cylindrical vessel, called the cista, or toiled casket; on its sides are engraved designs of the Argonauts, the victory of Poliduces ; it dates from the fifth century On the shelves around the room are a number of ancient bronzes and mirrors, the latter of a beautiful design, and once of such brilliant metal that the Roman ladies were accustomed to use them as hand-glasses. _ In this museum is preserved the celebrated Skit of the Cru cifixion found in the Palace of the Csesars , it consists of a RAMBLE I. 23 roughly scratched ontline of a man with an asses head, being crucified, beneath which, in Greek characters is the legend, Alexamenos adores his God. Evidently drawn by one of the Guard as is was found in the chambers of the Pretorian Guard and refers to the common report that the early Christians worshiped a donkey, see Ramble 2. Thence passing into the Piazza del Gesu, we can visit the CHURCH OF THE JESUITS, one of the finest in Rome Its interior is rich in stuccos, paint ings, and sculpture ; the fresces of the tribune, the dome, and the roof, are by Baciccio. The chapel of St Lorenzo is very fine, the columus and ball over the altar are composed of Lapis Lazuli. Beneath the altar in an urn of gilt bronze is the body of the Saint. The small circular chapel close by, is rich in paintings and stained glass windows. It is well worth a visit there to hear mass, vespers, or one of the fathers preaching. Proceeding up the Via di Ara Cosli, before us is the Capitol ; but before visiting it talcing the Via Tor dei Specchi on the right, and the Vicolo Rupe Tarpea on the left, we obtain a view of the BASE OF THE TARPEAN ROCK, though not the side from which the executions took place. " The qusestors led the man (Cassius) to the top of the precipice that commands the forum, and in the presence of all the citizens threw him down from the rock. " Thence retracing our steps, we arrive at the foot of the Capitoline Hill. The steps on the left lead up to the Church of Ara Cceli, supposed to occupy the site of the TEMPLE OF JUPITER CAPITOLINUS. " It stood upon a high rock, and was 800 ft in circuit, each side containing near 200, the length does not exceed the width by quite 15 ft. For the temple, that was built, in the time of our Fathers,. upon the same foundations with the first, which was consumed by fire, is found to differ from the ancient temple in nothing, but in magniflence, and the richness of the ma terials, having three rows of columns in the south front, and two on each side: The body is divided into three temples, pa rallel to one another, the partition walls forming their common sides : The middle Temple is dedicated to Jupiter ; and, on one 24 RAMBLES IN ROME side/ stands that of Juno; and on the other That cf Minerva : And all three have but one pediment, and one roof, rimy Four different temples have been erected on this site , ana now it is occupied by a christian chuch. The first built by Tarquinis Surpubus, consecrated by Horatius the counsel, burnt in the civil war. The second erected by Sylla, consecrated by Catulus, destroyed under Vitellius. The third erected by Ve spasian burnt before consecrated. The fourth built by Do- mitian. CHURCH OF ARA CG3LI. The nave is formed by 22 columns, the spoils of ancient buildings. At the end of the nave are two Gothic ambones with mosaic work. The altar urn of red porphyry formerly contained the body of Constantine's mother. This church is rendered famous as being where on the 15 th of October 1764, Gibbon " sat musing amidst the ruins of the Capitol " and conceived the idea of writing the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire* It is the residence of the celebrated Santissimo Bambino , carved out of a tree from the mount of Olives and painted by: St Luke. It is highly decorated with jewellery, has a pair horse carriage at its disposal, with coach and foot men, when it pays a visit to the sick. " As thy faith so be it unto thee. " The floor is mosaic and slab tombs of medioeval period. A grand ceremony is held here on Christmas day THE CAPITOL On the balustrade at the bottom of the ascent to the Capitol, are two Egyptian lionesses. At the top of the ascent are two colossal statues of Castor and Pollux found in the Ghetto, and by their side are the trophies of Marius , brought from the Nympha3um of Severus. Next to the trophies are two statues of Cffisar and Augustus Constantine. and in the same row the stone that marked the first mile on the Via Appia. In the middle of the square is an equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, in bronze. Michael Angelo was wont to say that the horse had only to plant the raised hoof upon the ground to complete the illusion that it was a living creature. The palace in front is occupied by the Sindaco, and is built on the remains of the Tabularium. By applying at a small door on your right hand side of the palace, the custodian", for a small fee , will allow you to ascend the tower, whence a fine view of Rome and its environs can be enjoyed, standing, as it were, between old and new Rome. RAMBLE I. 25 THE TOWER OF THE CAPITOL. From this height the huge mass of the Colosseum appears elegant and light ; the famous Seven Hills may be made out, notwithstanding the alteration in the soil; on the left is the QUIRINALIS, beyond that the VIMINAL , and beyond that the ESQUILINE ; to the extreme right is the AVENTINE ; before us is the PALATINE , with the CGELIAN beyond it , whilst we occupy the CAPITOLINE. The, contemplation of the city, however, produces the effect of a vast and solid rea ding of history. Each of the great recollections of the city, always and differently mistress of the world , seems to have chosen its respective quarter : = the Rome of the Kings is spread out on the Aventine ; Republican Rome occupies the Capitol ; that of the Emperors dominates the Palatine , and Christian Rome, isolated and solitary, reigns on the Vatican eminence. THE SEVEN HILLS OF ROME. The Palatine which has ever had the preference ; whether so called from the people Palantes, or Palatini ; or from the bleating and strolling of cattle, in latin balare and palare ; or from Pales, the pastoral goddess ; or from the burying-place of Pallas , is disputed amongst authors. It was on this hill that Romulus, — according to popular tradition, — laid the foun dations of the city, in a quadrangle form ; here Romulus and Tullus Hostilius kept their courts, as did afterwards Augustus, and all the succeeding emperors ; on which account, the word Palatium came to signify a royal seat. (Rosin, Antiq. lib. 1, cap. 4). The Aventine derives its name from Aventinus an Alban king, (Varro de Ling. Lat. 1. 4) or from the river Avens (lb.), or from ab Avibus, from the birds which used to fly thither in great flocks from the Tiber (lb.). It was also called Mur- cius , from Murcia, the goddes of sleep, who had a temple here, (Sext. Pomp. Festus). Also Collis Diance, from the temple of Diana (Martial). Likewise Remonius from Remus , who wished the city to be commenced here , and who was buried here. (Plut. in Romul). This hill was added by Ancus Martius. (Eutropius, lib. 1). The Capitoline, or Tarpeian, took its name from Tarpeia, a Roman virgin, who betrayed the city to the Sabines at this point. (Plutarch in Romul). It was also called Mons. Sa- turni and Saturnius, in honour of Saturn, who is reported to have lived here and was the titular diety of this part of the city. It was afterwards called Capitoline; from the head of a man found here when digging the foundations of the famous 26 RAMBLES IN ROME temple of Jupiter. It was added to the city when the Sabines were permitted by Romulus to incorporate themselves with tne Romans. (Dionysius). . . . The Quikinal was either so called from the temple ot (Jm- rinus, another name of Romulus; or from the Curetes,a, people that removed hither with Tatius from Cures a Sabine city. (Sext. Pomp. Festus). It afterwards changed its name to Caballus, from two marble horses, each having a man holding him, which are still standing and were the works of Phidias and Praxitiles; (Fabricii Roma. cap. 3) made to represent Alexander the Great and Bucephalus, and presented to Nero by Tiridates king of Armenia. Numa added this hill to the city. (Dionys. Halic. lib. 2). The Esquiline was anciently called Cispius and Oppius, (Fabricii Roma, cap. 3) the name Esquilinus was varied for the easier pronunciation, from Exquilinus, a corruption of Excubinus, ab Excubiis, from the watch that Romulus kept there. (Propert., lib. 2, eleg. 8). It was taken in by Servius Tullius, who had his palace here. (Liv., lib. 1, cap. 44). The Viminal derives its name from Vimina, signifying Osiers, which grew here in large quantities. This hill was added by Servius Tullius. (Dionys., lib. 4), The Ccblian owes its name to Ccelius or Cedes , a famous Tuscan General, who encamped here, when he came to assist the Romans against the Sabines. (Varro de Ling. Latm., lib. 4). The other names by which it was sometimes known, were Querculanus or Quercetulanus, and Augustus ; the first on account of its growth of oaks, and secondly on the Emperor Tiberius building on it after a fire (Tacit. Ann. 4, Suet in Tib. cap. 48). One part was called Cceliolus, and Minor Cceliolus. (Fabricii Roma. cap. 3). Livy, (Lib. 1, cap. 30) and Dionysius, (Lib. 3) attribute the taking of it into the city to Tullius Hostilius ; but Strabo, ( Georg. I. 5) to Ancus Martius. Whilst on the subject of the hills of Rome, three others, are equally famous. The Janictjltjm, or Janicularis, so called either from an old town of the same name said to have been built by Janus ; or, because Janus dwelt and was buried here; (Martian, lib- 1, cap. 1) or because it was a Janua, a sort of gate to the Ro mans whence they issued out upon the Tuscans. (Festus). Its yellow sand gave it the name of Mons. Aurens, corrupted into Montorius. (Fabricii Roma, lib. 1, cap. 3). From an epigram of Martial, we may observe; that it is the fittest place to take one's standing for a full prospect of the city ; and that it is less inhabited than the other parts, by reason of the grossness of the air. (Martial, Epig. lib. 4, ep. 64). It is famous for RAMBLE I. 27 the sepulchres of Numa, and Statins the poet, (Fabricii Roma, lib. 1, cap. 3) and in more recent times as the grave of Tasso and the spot where tradition holds that St. Peter was executed. The Vatican owes its name to the Votes, or Prophets who used to give their answers here; or from the God Vaticanus or Vagitanus. (Festus). Formerly celebrated for the tomb of Scipio Africanus. (Warcup's , Hist, of Italy, booh 2). And in our time for St. Peters and the Vatican. It was enclosed in the time of Aurelian. The Pmeio. Collis Hortulorum, or Hortorum, took its name frem the gardens of Sallust adjoining it. (Rosin, lib. 1, cap. 2). It wag afterwards called Pincius, from the Pincii, a noble family who had their seat here. (Id). Aurelian first enclosed it (id.). The Capitol tower is crowned by a statue of Rome, and the treat bell announces ordinarily, by a strange contrast , the eath of the pope and the opening of carnival. On descending to the Piazza, the steps on the left of the Capitol lead by a court-yard to the TARPEAN ROCK Knock at the second door of the row of houses on the left, and- a custodian will conduct you into a garden situated on that part of the Tarpean Rook from whence it is supposed traitors were thrown down. It is surrounded by buildings, and the earth has accumulated, diminishing its original height. Dionysius Tells us that Cassius was hurled from the rock in view of the people assembled in the Forum. Now from about this point the people in the Forum could see the execution, not so however from the point near the Via Tor dei Specchi, contended for by some authorities. . . Turning to the left past the Palazzo dei Conservaton brings us to the Palace of the Prussian Embassy. A low wall sur mounts the rock at this point; it was here that the terrible scene described in Hawthorn's Marble Faun took place. -By applying at the Embassy permission will be given to view the interesting remains of the TEMPLE OF JUPITER FERETR1US, (The trophy-bearer). The first temple built in Rome by Romulus ,_ to receive the spoils captured from Acron King of Coenina, repaired by Agustus '' After the 'procession and sacrifice , Romulus built a small. temple, on the top of the capitoline hill, to Jupiter, whom the 28 RAMBLES IN R OME Romans Call Feretrius : for the ancient traces still remain, of which the longest sides are less than 15ft. " Dionysius In facing the Capitol on the right is the PALAZZO DEI CONSERVATORI Open every day fee % lira except Sunday when it is free, The principal objects in the Courttakd. 1. Statue of Julius Caesar, the only authentic portrait in Rome. 2, 4, 9, Colossal fragments , found near the Basilica of Con stantino. Supposed to have belonged to the statue of Apollo; brought from Pontus by Lucullus. 11. Lion Atracking a horse, found in the river Almo outside Porta San Paolo. 12, 14; Captive Kings 13, Large seated Statue of Rome. 15. Colossal Bronze head , supposed to be the head of Nero's statue. 25. Square Base which contained the bones of Agrippina the elder. Vide inscription, (page 34). 28. Statue o f The Emperor Augustus. STAIRCASE AND LANDING. 36. Base Capitolina, an altar dedicated to Hadrian, whose bust it now supports, by the inspectors of the streets. On the sides are engraved the names of the magistrates who presided over the streets, which are named, of the 14 regions into which Rome was divided. It for merly supported a lion. It has afforded much useful in formation to Archaeologists 41. Alto-relief supposed to have formed part of the arch of Claudius found in the Piazza Sciarra. 42, 3, 4. Alto-reliefs supposed to have been part of the Arch of Marcus Aurelius. 45. Curious Basrelief representing Mettus Curtius, on horsehair, floundering in the marsh , where is now the Forum, found near the church of Santa Maria Liberatrice. 49, 50 Alto-reliefs from an arch which stood in the corso. Supposed to be in honour of Antoninus Pius. At the top of the stairs is the ETRUSCAN MUSEUM. Formed by Sig. A Castellani and presented by him to S. P. Q. R. * They were mostly found at Cervetri , Tarquinii and Veii. * Stnatus Popolusque Romano, The senate and People of Home. RAMBLE I. 29 On this floor are several rooms, not generally opened to the public 1st Room, painted by Laureti representing the History of the Republic. Also subjects taken from the Cimbrian Wars. 5th Room, Hall of Audience. _ 6th Room, The Throne Room. Representing scenes from the life of Alexander the Great, by Daniele da Volterra. 7th Room, frescoes history of the Punic wars by da Volterra. GALLERY OF THE FASTI CONSULARES. Found near the Temple of Vespasian in the Forum, in the tenth century. Giving the names of the Consuls from A. U. C. 272 to the reign of Augustus. GALLERY OF BUSTS composed of Statesmen, poets, painters, authors, sculptors, all noted in Italian history. The name, date of birth and death is on each bust. At the end is a handsome monument to Canover. A door on the left, leads into the HALL OF BRONZES. In the centre of the first room is the celebrated bronze wolf of the Capitol (1). thus alluded to by Virgil. En VIII, 630. ' By the wolf, were laid the martial twins. Intrepid on her swelling dugs they hung : The foster-dam loll'd oat her fawning tongue : They suck'd secure, while, bending back her head, She Hck'd their tender limbs, and form'd them as they fed. " Cicero in Catilin. III. 8. mentions it as a small gilt figure of Romulus sucking the teat of a wolf which was struck with lightning, and which his hearers remembered to have seen in the Capitol. Dionysius (B. C. 264) quoting from an older historian, Qumctus Fabius Pictor, speaks of a Temple in which a statue is placed representing this incident; It is a wolf suckling two children, they are in brass, and of ancient workmanship. This- must not be confounded with the statue mentioned by Cicero , which is generally believed to be the one before us. The fracture on the hind leg may have been caused by lightning , and_ traces of gilt may still be observed. It is not known where in was found but in Cicero's time B. C. 106—43 it was to be "seen in the Capitol. " The workmanship of the wolf is of an early Dancing Girl 5 Hecate Bull's head 7 Maetius o Candelabria S(-i CO © 03 -, to asvA aamij 8 KfliTiasig SMQHg o Wolf 1 Door Hand 3 Bull 2 a a HALL OF BRONZES Horse Foot 10 T aodrax saincraaii 8 9 smure-YQ inoojj BnoQ-BJiox o; oou-B^ug; 9 VNVIQ f aaoif) ki hi 1 RAMBLE I. 31 period, Etruscian, the twins are modern. (2) A bull found in Trastevere in 1849. (6) " Thou Seest the faces of Hecate turned in three directions, that she may watch the cross roads cut into three pathways. " She was the patroness of magic and was also set up before houses to ward off evil. This goddess is often confounded with Diana. (8) The Shepherd Martius, a bronze statue of a boy extracting a thorn from his foot. (9>, Horse found in Trastevefe. (10) Foot found near the Colosseum. The case on the left contains amongst other objects a bronze in scription with heads in alto-relief of Septimus Severus, Cara- calla and Julia Pia. Second Room (2) Gilt bronze statue of Hercules, found amongst the remains of a Temple of Hercules, behind the church of Sta Maria in Cosmedin. (3, 4) Bronze globes one of which was held in the hand of Trajan's statue on his column, and said to have contained his ashes. (5) Diana of the Ephesians in bronze and marble. (6) A Camillus one ol the twelve youths who assisted at the sacrifices. (7) Bust of Marcus Brutus, Et tu Brute ! (8) A Bisellium , a chair of state found at Pom peii, for two persons of distinction; formed of tortoiseshell inlaid with silver supported by four legs. Tho' made for two persons it was only occupied by one, hence it was called Bi sellium. Below was the scabellum or footstool. (9) A fluted vaze found in the sea at Porto d' Anzio. A gift of Mithri- dates King of Pontns to a gynnasium of the Eupatorists. Terra-Cotta Room composed of remains found chiefly in the excavations in building the new quarter of Rome upon the Esquiline Hill. The principal objects are. A Bronze Bega or two horse chariot with reliefs depieting scenes from the circus; given by Signor Castellani. A coffin containing skulls. A large jar containing a leaden case in which is enclosed a beautiful alabaster urn. A large and varied collection of Roman lamps. A flight of stairs, through a door on the left of the gal lery of busts, leads up to the PINACOTHECA OR PICTURE GALLERY. (open every day from 10 till 3J. Founded by Benedict XIVt; and composed of two rooms. The following are the most celebrated pictures : But each Pic ture has the name of the artist and the subject painted on the frame. First Room. St. Lucy by Garofolo ; the Holy Family by Ca- racci; Agar and Ishmael by Mola ; Persian Sybil by Guercmo; the Presentation in the Temple by Fra Bartolomeo ; Jesus Christ and the Doctors by M. Valentin ; the Magdalen by Guido; 32 RAMBLES IN ROME the Redeemed Spirit by the same ; Flora by K Pousin; Ro mulus and Remus by Rubens ; a Portrait by Giorgione ; bi. »e- bastian by G. Bellini. „ Tn_. Second Room. The Rape of Europa by P. Veronese; Jesus Christ and the Pharasee by Bassano ; the Ascension by if. ve- ronese; the defeat of Darius by P. da Cortona; Innocence Dy Romanelli; the Saviour and the Adulteress by Tizian; bt. i rancis by Ann Caracci; St. Petronilla by Guercino; the Holy Virgin by Perugino ; portrait of Michael Angelo painted by nimseir; Cleopatra before Augustus by Guercino ; St. Sebastian by h. Caracci ; St. Sebastian by Guido ; a picture with two portraits by Van-Dyck. . ,, Leaving the Palazzo dei Conservatory and crossing me Piazza, we enter THE MUSEUM OF THE CAPITOL. Open every day from 10 till 3 : entrance % lira each person. On Sundays free. A complete catalogue, of this Museum, giving full and interesting details has heen puhlished by Mr. Shakspere Wood; it can he obtained at the different booksellers. THE COURT YARD, 1. Marforio, a recumbent statue of the Ocean , celebrated as having been made the medium of replying to Pasquino. It stood near the Arch of Septimius Severus. 2, 4. Antique columns surmounted by a bust of Juno (2) and an Unknown bust (4). 3, 18. Sayrs, 7. Colossal bust of Trajan. 8, 13. Sarcophagi found in the Catecombs of St Sebastian. The walls are adorned with inscriptions and fragments also some fragments from the Tem ple of Concord. LOWER CORRIDOR. 1. Endymion and his dog found outside Porta S. Giovanni. 2. Apollo. 3. Minerva. 5. Lyric Apollo, standing on a pedestal found near the pyramid of Caius Cestius and relating to him. see. 16. 8, 13. Statues of Roman Ladies. 9. Pedestal with relief of the province of Dacia. Entrance. * 11. Captive Dacian King from the arch of Constantine. 20, 22. Diana. 24, 17 Christian Sarcophagi. 25. Polyphomus. 27, Sarcophagus. 28, Hadrian in sacerdotal costume. 31. Colossal statue of a Roman warrior- found on the Aventine. 52. Hercules killing the Hydra. 33. Por- phry fragment, % Entrance RAMBLE I. , 33 * HALL OF MITHRAS. First Room contains reliefs relating to the worship of the Persian Sun God Mithras, recently found on the Esquiline hill. Tho one in high relief represents the sacrifice of the bull. The second is of great interest and represents the entire ritual of this worship including the human sacrifice. The name of the Mithrite who erected it is also attatched. The Earth a sitting statuette in a niche found in the Roman Cemetery; above is placed a beautiful alabaster cinerary urn. A large stone shield sculptured with the acanthus leaf. Three pannellings representing two dogs and a stag, in a very rude style, found on the Es quiline. Second Room. The walls are encased with inscriptions and round the room are Sarcophagi , Cippi ; Bases and urns. Mi- thriac sacrifice, a small statuette. Third Room, this is decorated similar to the second. 4. Sar cophagus with the hunt of the Calydonian boar, on the lid are Cupids hunting. Diana sent a boar to ravage the country of Calydon, for the king Aneus neglating her divinity. All the princes of the time assembled to hunt the boar which was killed by Meleager the King's son. It was found on the Via Appia. 80 Sarcophagus representing Deer and Boar, hunts, found on the Via Appia. In the centre of the room is the monument of Quintus Sulpicins Maximus, found in 1870 in the old Porta Salaria. The inscription states that he died at the early age of 13 years, 5 months and 12 days. He carried off the honours for composing Greek Verse against 52 competitors. The Poem is engraved on the pilasters: The subject is ; The arguments used by Jove in reproving Phcebus for intrusting his chariot to Phaeton. Africa's deserts and the Niggers black skins are ascribed to the earless driving of Phaeton on this occassion. f HALL OF INSCRIPTIONS right hand end of Corridor 1. Square Altar, representing the labours of Hercules , sup porting a statue of Silenus which was formerly a fountain. Second room. 3. 5, 6, 14. Monumental Cippi with working tools in basrelief, likewise the same emblems on 15, fragment of a co lumn 3. Inscription to Marcus Aobutius. 5. Lapis Cappomanus. 6. Cossutius. 14. T Statilius Apro and to his wife Orcivia. Antides. It was found on the Janiculum. He was a surveyor, the verse stating that he died at the age of 22 years, 8 months and 15 days. (Query) What was the age of his mother? 34 RAMBLES IN ROME 4. Sarcophagus found on the Via Appia representing a fight between Roman and Gallic cavalry. Supposed to represent tne defeat of the Gauls when their Chief Ancroestus, killed himselt, And the Roman Consul Atilius Regulus fell in the fight A. u. C. 417. The central figure is strickingly like the figure oi the wounded Gaul miscalled the dying Gladiator. It may be, that this is the scene that the Gallic group in the Villa Ludovisi and "the wounded man dying" in the Capitol museum, and which formerly belonged to the Ludovisi collection, represented in a larger size and stood in the Gardens of Sallust; where it was found amongst the ruins with the Gallic Group ; the two forming part of a large group representing the above scene. 5, Monument to Bathyllus an actor of the time of Augustus afterwards Custode of the Temple of the deified Augustus. Third Room. 1, Sarcophagus found in a mound on the road to Frascati, called Monte del Grano. Inside the Sarcophagus was found the Portland Vase, now in the British Museum, which contained the ashes. It is surmounted by the figure of a man and woman in repose. The reliefs illustrate the life of Achilles. 4. Mosaic, Hercules conquered by Love. 8. Altar of the Sun. 14. Pluto and Cerberus, found in the Baths of Titus 1812. Interesting tablet of the reign of the Emperor Commodus. In digging foundations in what was the Praetorian camp they found a tablet of marble 22 in. by 10 in., and upon its sur face are roughly carved names and dates. It is supposed to have formed part of the tablets upon which were inscribed the names of the Pretorian guards. These tablets were the muster-rolls, bearing the conorts , their divisions , the na mes of the Centurions, and the dates of the entrance of the private soldiers into the service, with the names of their birthplaces ; they appear to have belonged to the Centurion of Terentius, and show that men from all the Roman provinces, and even barbarians, were admitted into the guards. Thus one is Caius Valerius Germanicus, others are described as from Mocera, Nepi, Molla, and Rimini. An alphabetic sign, hitherto unknown, has been discovered on the slab; it is('s,) which, placed at the end of a word , gives the termination us ; for instancs, Maximus is cut on the tablet as Maxim's. STAIRCASE on the walls are encased the fragments of the marble plan of Rome found in 1534-50, 1867 behind the Church of S. S. Cosmo and Damiano, they had originally served for the pannelling of the wall that formed part of the Temple of Rome built by Hadrian. It was made in the third century in the time of RAMBLE I. 35 the Emperor Alexander Severus (A. D. 275). It is called the Pianta Capitolina " and is of great use to Archaeologists in studying the ground plan of the different buildings, marked uP°n xt» though not as showing their relative positions. The doors at the top of the stairs lead us into the. HALL OF THE DYING GAUL 'He leans upon his hand- his manly brow Consents to death, but conquers agony, And his droop'd head sinks gradually low — And through his side the last drops ebbing slow From tho red gash, fall heavily, one Liy one. " This peifect statue of '¦ a wounded man dying, who perfectly expressed how much life was remaining in him ; " has for many years been called The dying Gladiator, but it has however of late years been more correctly described as a wounded Gaul. It is like the figure in the combat on the sarcophagus in the Hall of Inscriptions. (Page 34J It was found together with the Gallic Group in the Ludovisi Villa, amongst the ruins of the Gardens of Sallust and with that group may have formed part of a large group representing the same scene, as depicted on the Sarcophagus. 2. Lician Apollo found near the Acquae Albulse on the road to Tivoli. 3. Female carryng a Vase, it stands on an altar dedicated to Hercules byC. Ulpius Fronto. A. D. 126; found in the Forum Boarium. 4. Bust of Ariadne. 5. Amazon, the finest of its class in existance. 6. Atys the Sun God. 7. Juno. 10. Isis. 11. Flora? found at Hadrian's Villa, thought to be Sabina the wife of Hadrian. 13. Aniinous found at Hadrian's Vil la. 15. The Faun of Praxiteles, found at Civita Lavinia, amongst the ruins of the Villa of Antonius Pius. This is the Marbel Faun of Hawthorn. 16. Girl Protecting a Dove. 17 Zeno the Stoic Philosopher. HALL OF THE FAUN 1. The celebrated and beautiful Faun in roso antico found at Hadrian's Villa, Tivoli. 9. Tydeus the father of Diomed, a hollow mask. 11. The Endymian Sarcophagus, found under the high Altar of the church of S. Eustachio ; The cover belongs to another sarcophagus. 13. Boy with a senic Mask. 21. Boy with a Goose, found near St John's Lateran. 26. Sarcophagus representing The battle between Amazons and Athenians. On the wall above is the Bronze Table , on which is engraved a portion of the Lex Regia conferring the Imperial Power on Vespasian and from which Rienzi demonstrated to the people 36 RAMBLES IN ROME their political rights. It was discovered near the Lateran in about 1300, and was kept in the Basilica. HALL OF THE CENTAURS. 1. Jupiter in black marble. 2, 4. Cloud-born Centaurs, found at Hadrian's Villa the joint work of Aristeas and Papias sculptors of Aphrodisium , in Bigio morato marble. Pliny says he saw a Centaur that had been embalmed in honey, which had been brought from Egypt to Rome in the time of Claudius 3. The infant Hercules, in green basalt found on the Aventine. 5. iEscu- lopius in black marble. 6. Hygeia. 8. Young Apollo. 10. "Woun ded Amazon. 11. Venus and Mars found in the Isola Sacra near Ostia. 18. Augustus. In the niche of the side wall of this hall have been placed several works of art found on the Esquiline on Christmas Eve 1874. In the centre is a beautiful nude sta tue of a young girl or Nymph, leaving the bath, of Pirian marble, standing with sandled feet by a pedestal which supports her robe, the left hand fastening up the hair. On each side are two female draped statues and two half statues of Tritons. Two columns of Porta Santa found near the Tomb of Ce cilia Metella. 27. A Teacher imparting instruction, found in Hadrian's Villa. 28 Hecuba, Prafica it could not be for " Te rence and Plutarch represent the women who wailed at fu nerals, with uncovered heads and dishevelled hair. The age, the expression, the retortion of head, the very dress of this sin gular figure embodied my idea of the " mobaled Queen " a clout upon that head were late the diadem stood, and, for a robe, about her lank and all o'er-teemed loin a blanket in the alarm of fear caught up. " Forsyth. 34. Harpocrates found at Hadrian's Villa. HALL OF ILLUSTRIOUS MEN. Containing busts of great men arranged round the room on shelves, many of doubtful identity. The most important are. 1. Virgil. 4, 5, 6, Socrates. 10. Seneca. 16. Marcus Agrippa. 20. Marcus Aurelius. 21. Diogenes. 27. Pythagoras. 28. Ale xander the Great. 31 , 2. Demosthenes. 33 , 4. Sophodes. 37. Hippocrates. 41,2,3. Euripides. 44 , 5 , 6 , 7. Homer. 49. Scipio Africanus the elder. 51. Pompey the Great. 60. Thu- cydides. 63. Double hermes of Epicurus and Metrodorus, Friends and Philosophers. 72. Julian. 76 Terence. The walls are adorned with bas-relief. The seated figure in the centre of the room is supposed to be Marcus Claudius Marcellus. The Great General of the Republic died B C 208 RAMBLE I. 37 HALL OF THE EMPERORS. Whose busts are arranged round the room; the principal of which are 1. Julius Caesar. 2. Augustus. 3. Marcellus. 5. Ti berius. 11. Calagulia. 14, 15. Nero. 21 Vespasian. 22. Ti tus. 24. Domitian. 26. Nerva. 27. Trajan. 31. Hadrian. 38. Marcus Aurelius , found in the Tiber within Rome. 41. Lucius Verus. 43. Commodus. 50, 1. Septimus Severus. 53. Caracalla. 57, Heliogabalus. There are several bas reliefs round the room, seated in the centre is Agrippina " The glory of the Roman matrons "; Daughter of M. V. Agrippa and Julia, daughter of Augustus; the wife of Germanicus and mother of Cali gula. " It is a statue, combining an expression of moral dignity and of intellectual force, with as much beauty and poetical grace, as the genius of sculpture ever borrowed from breathing nature, to work out its own miracles of art. This statue — a history and an epic in itself — represents a women in the prime of life, seated in a chair of state , and in the deep re pose of meditative thought. The statue is lofty , her brow of high capacity, her mouth expressive of love and wit, and all her features are harmonized by that regularity, which is ever denied to defective organizations. Over the whole of this simply-draped and noble figure , there is an air of tranquil majesty , which , in its solemn influence , likens it to the statues of the gods. " Lady Morgan. It may have originally stood on the Cinerary Base in the courtyard of the Pelazzo dei Conservatori (Page 28.) The latest addition to this room is a half statue of the emperor Commodus as Hercules, beautifully executed in fine marble, with the lions' skin over his head and knotted upon his chest, in his right hand is the club. A bracket of marble ornamented at its end with a celestal globe, rested on the pedestal which formed a shield, a band running round the centre with three signs of the Zodiac. This bracket is sup ported by two kneeling figures holding cornucopias containing fruit, one is in good preservation, the fragments of the other were also found, together, with the statues in the niche in the hall of the Centaurs. UPPER CORRIDOR in our order of visiting the Museum the subjects in this Corridor commence at the highest number 76. Vase of White Marble found near the tomb of Cecilia Metella , it is decorated with vine leaves and fruit. The pe destal is a very interesting Etruscan Marble well head on it are the twelve principal Deities. 74. Minerva. 76. Bust of 38 RAMBLES IN ROME Marcus Aurelius. Entrance *. 53. Psyche. 48. Sarcophagus Il lustrating the birth of Bacchus. 42. Jupiter. 38 Juno. 3t> Gla diator restored from a Discobolus. 32 Eutrepe, 30 Cineary. Urn. 28 Sarcophagus representing the Rape of Proserpine. 26 Infant Hercules strangling a serpent. 24 Female Statue. 20 Drunken Baccante. Entrance % 13. Cupid. 9. A Lion. 1. Marcus Aurelius. * CABINET OF VENUS The celebrated Venus of the Capitol, found in a walled up chamber on the Viminal, is rather the statue of a beautiful woman in full maturity than of Venus as a Goddess. Cupid and Psyche, found on the Aventine, a beautiful little Group. Leda and the Swan, mediocite. f HALL OF THE DOVES So called from the beautiful Mosaic (89) in the wall on the right in entering ; mentioned by Pliny as the work of Sosus existing at Pergamos " There is a Dove , greatly admired in the act of drinking, and throwing the shadow of its head upon the water, while other birds are to be seen, sunning and plu ming themselves on the margin of a drinking bowl." It was found in Hadrian's Villa. No 58 is also a mosaic represen ting, two scenic masks found on the Aventine. In the wind ows are glass cases containing, stylus, coins and lamps. 25 fixed on the side of the further window The Iliac Table representing the Fall of Troy as described by Virgil to each group is at- eached an explanitory inscription in Greek: Found at Bovillce. 56 Diana of Ephesus. 60 Sarcophagus of Gerontia representing the fable of Endymion. 88 The Prometheus Sarcophagus. On shelves round the room are placed numerous busts, but not of much interest. THE TABULARIUM admission */2 lira Entrance on the right side going down to the Forum. The Tabularium forms the substructions of the present Ca pitol consisting of blocks of tufta from Gabii ; the outter wall is 240 ft in length and 37 high ; above are the remains of 16 Doric pilasters. There is a series of Doric Arches 23 ft X 15 and a flight of 67 steps that led from the Forum to the Capitol of the Republican period, the entrance was closed RAMBLE I. 39 by building the Temple of Vespasian against it. The Tabu- larium was where the bronze plates recording public acts were kept. The Doric portico contains numerous fragments found in the Forum. " It is only within the last twenty years that we have arri ved at a closer and more correct knowledge of this grand edi fice, certainly one of the most considerable of the brightest epoch of the republic. Up to this time the inner rooms were inaccessible, being used as places ot confinement for criminals. It is now ascertained, that the whole palace of the Capitol rests upon ancient foundation, and the old building must there fore have occupied the same space as the imposing masses of the modern edifice. " In an inscription, Q. Lutatius Catulus is expressly named as the founder not only of the Tabularium, but also of the sub- srruction, the latter being particularly alluded to. In fact the substruction was the most difficult portion of the work, and the way in which the task has been accomplished, lays, claim to our fullest admiration. It has been turned into a museum of architectural fragments found in the different excavations; and is well worth visiting. NOTES 40 RAMBLES IN ROME NOTES RAMBLE II. The Column of Marcus Aurelius — Monte Citorio — Tem ple of Antoninus Pius — St Paul's House — The Doria Gallery — Tombs of Attia Claudia and Bibulus — The Mamertine Prison — Stationes Municipiorum — Lautumice — The Forum of Julius Ccesar — Curia Hostilia — Basi licas Porcia and fflmilia — Accademia di St Luca — The Ruins in the Roman Forum — The Via Sacra — Tem ples of Antoninus and Faustina — Romulus — Venus and Rome — Basilica of Constantine — Palace of the Cae sars — Arch of Titus— The Temple of the Sun— The platform with its Delubra — Pedestal of Nero's Co lossus — Meta Sudans — Arch of Constantine — Livia's Portico — The Colosseum. Passing along the Corso, the principal street of modern Rome , we come to the PIAZZA COLONNA in which is situated. THE COLUMN OF MARCUS AURELIUS. On the spot where the Palazzo Chigi now stands, (on our right) a temple was erected to M. Aurelius, in front of which was placed a splendid pillar, with a spiral frieze winding up the shaft, and representing the chief incidents of the war against the Marcomanni. A. D. 174. The shaft of this pillar is of precisely tho same height as that of the pillar of Trajan. The pedestal, on the other hand, 42 RAMBLES IN ROME is much higher ; and rises considerably above the level of the modern pavement. The present marble facing of this pedestal has been employed to strengthen the foundations oi the mor nument, which had been much injured. The pillar, after ha ving been frequently struck and much damaged by lightning, was restored, at the command of Sixtus V., by Fontana and his nephew Carlo Maderno. Looking up we perceive the iron cramps, used to keep together the blocks of stone, which had .slipped out of their original position. But for this support, this fine monument would long since have sunk beneath the pressure of its own weight. The sculptures are very interesting, but can no more be en joyed on the spot than those on the pillar of Trajan. They represent scenes from tho battles fought in Germany. It is 137 feet high, and is crowned with a statue of S. Paul. Facing the PIAZZA COLONNA, — is the POST-OFFICE, — the columns , which form the portico , were found in the ruins of Veii. Our attention is next attracted by the PARLIAMENT HOUSE situated in the Piazza MONTE CITORIO, behind the Post office. Orders for admission to which, may be obtained from any Deputy, if special seats are wanted , but there_ is a compartment in the gallery open to the public. Immediately opposite this palace, is an obelisk 90 feet high. It was erec ted originally at Heliopolis to Psammeticus I of the 24th dy nasty ; more than six centuries before Our Saviour. Augustus erected it in tho Campus Martius where it served as a sundial. The remains of the Antonine pillar were found near by in 1709 and being broken the pieces were used to repair the obelisk. The pedestal was placed in the Vatican Garden. Sextus V in restoring the Column of Marcus Aurelius in error inscribed it to Antoninus Pius. From here a short street takes as into the PIAZZA DI PIETRA, in which is situated the TEMPLE OF ANTONINUS PIUS, now the custom-house, and of which all that remains are ele ven Corinthian columns supporting an architrave of marble. Passing down the Corso, on the right hand side, we reach a small street called Via Lata, at the corner of which is the supposed site of RAMBLE II. 43 THE HOUSE OF St PAUL, CHURCH OF ST. MARIA, said to have been built on the site of the house in which St. Paul lived during his captivity in Rome. A spring of water is shown, which tradition holds sprung up for him to. baptize his converts in. A small Ghapel is also shown , where they say St. Luke painted his madonna. " Paul was suffered to dwell by himself with a soldier (Ju lius) that kept him. And Paul dwelt two whole years in his own hired house. " See Ramble 4. Just beyond on the same side of the way is THE DORIA PALACE, GALLERY. Open on Tuesday and Friday from 10 till 2. Catalo gues in each room , fee half-franc. Contains , among other works of art, four sarcophagi, with reliefs of the hunt of Me- leager ; the Three Ages of Man, by Titian; Bartolo and Baldo, by Raphael; Joanna of Arragon, by Leonardo da Vinci; the Mill, by Claude Lorraine; Entombment, by Emelinak ; a sta tuette of ( Lady Mary Talbot) Princees Doria. Proceeding down the Corso we reach the PIAZZA DI VENEZIA. On the left is the Tolonia Palace and , on the right the Venetian Palace now the Austrian Embassy a buil ding of the middle ages. On the right hand side of the nar row street , in a line with the corso, VIA MORFORIO is the. SEPULCHRE OF ATTIA CLAUDIA. Embodied into a house, the lower part being shops. By descending into the Vault it will be seen that it is hewn out of the natural rock. The Claudii family " received from the state, lands beyond the Anio for their followers, and a burying place for themselves near the capitol. " Suetonius. A few steps beyond on the left hand side of the same street is the TOMB OF BIBULUS. The inscription records the virtue and public honour of a Roman Magistrate of the time of the republic. It is supposed to be 2000 years old. It is of Travertine stone and plain Doric architecture. There is some talk of pulling the house down so that this enteresting monument may be better seen. Conti nuing our Ramble down the street we step into 44 RAMBLES IN ROME THE ROMAN FORUM Capitoline T ABUL ABITJM Sfes Sc&ola Xan*a CUvus CmtQ a" 7i- P, Via Iugabius eostra ad Palmam Comitium Puteal Libonis m Domitian's 1 | Pedestal VIA TUSCUS SHOPS destroyed VIA SACRA Basilica Porcia g»feS2.B Statiuiij Municipj rum c p1 s» -s >-s 3' 02 O »=1 o a. l— '• QQO 0B VIA NOVA! • > - ^3 H 0«3 & vaxsojr •§§,! sniTUf pegoi(j jo eTdraex H. & %>0 % ^ V ^ > i— t COo .g-g Ed1 2 £ church of Sts Cosmo & Da miano M™^ 2,3. O S CD co 5 -3 o RAMBLE II. 45 THE ROMAN FORUM. The new excavations are open to the public every Sunday and Thursday, without fee. To understand the Roman Forum and its surroundings, vi sitors should attend the lectures given on the spot by the author of these Rambles, descend with him to its level and examine each remaining object in detail; thus, they may learn some thing of the buildings and their history that crowded on its space. i Mutilated fragments still speak of their former grandeur , dead men of their fame and living authors of their past and present history. In these Rambles we shall only treat of the most important and actual remains which are classed in the order in which they should be visited and not chronologically. The lecMres are given at frequent intervals, tickets three lire each can be obtained at Messrs Monaldimi' s 79 Piazza di Spagna. It is a charming pastime to visit the Forum, the Palace of the Caesars, aud the Colosseum, scraped and cleaned of the weeds and rubbish which had been accumulating for over a century on its venerable walls. This process was severely cri ticised by all at the time, and it is quite a relief to see now that the verdure is fast re-appearing to soften and grace the ruggedness of this grandest of old monuments. The real foundation of the ancient city has long been co vered over by tbe heaping up during ages of earth, stones, rubbish &c. The present thick crust has lain untouched by shovel during the long series of popes ; especially was this , until now, the condition of the Roman Forum. The latter is to be entirely excavated, and the removal of the superincum bent earth is at this present moment being made with a vi gour never before attempted. In short, the Forum is dressed up in quite a new attire, And many old visitors would scarcely recognize it now in its mo dern garb. Crowds of spectators lean against the barriers every day, anxiously reviewing the carting of the earth and awaiting for artistic valuables to " turn up. " The picturesqueness of the crowds, of the costumes and sce nery, the variety of language and nationality, the past asso ciations — all go to make up a spectacle quite unique. The first object of interest is the Church of St. Giuseppe dei Falegnami, at the right hand comer of the Via Marfono, built over the 46 RAMBLES IN ROME MAMERTINE PRISON, according to Livy by Ancus Martius overlooking the Forum. Servius Tullius added a lower cell, called the TULLIANUM6 % high and 19 ft. X 9; prisoners who were condemned to be stran gled or to die of hunger were thrust down the apperture hence the phrase " to cast into the lower prison. " Sallust thus de- scribes it n " There is a place in the prison which is called the Tullia- num dungeon, it is about. 12 ft deep in the ground, when you have ascended a little to the left; it is secured round the sides by walls , and over it is a vaulted roof connected with stone arches; but its appearance is disgusting and horrible, by reason of the filth, the obscurity, and the stench." The upper part of the Mamertine prison was partly rebuilt in the time of Tiberius, as we know from an inscription re maining in the cornice over the flight of steps under the Church. C. VIBIUS. C. F. RUFINUS. M. COCCEIUS. NERVA. COS. EX S. C. CONSULS A. D. 23. It seems to have been used exclusively for state prisoners we have record of the ^following amongst others who were confined here. Manlius who had defended the capitol against the Gauls — B. C. 382. Quintus Pleminius a prisoner for sedition. — B. C. 194. Jugurtha King of Numidia, who was starved to death — B. C. 104. He exclaimed when cast in " Heavens how cold is this bath of yours " Evidently speaking of the spring as existing in those days, we are told by Sallust that Jugurtha complain ed not only of having been thrown into prison , but having been thrown into a cold bath at the same time. Cataline conspirators strangled by order of the Consul Ci cero. — B. C. 55. Vercingetorix, King of the Gauls by order of Julius Caesar. Sejanus the minister of Tiberius. — A. D. 31. Simon the son of Giora , the defender of Jerusalem against Vespasian. — A. D. 69. In the centre of the upper chamber is a round apperture covered by a grate down -which the prisoners were cast. Juvenal says " Happy ages of the just, happy centuries, it may be said, those which saw formerly under the Kings , as under the Tribunes. Rome content with one prison. One prison may have been enough in those times when it was against the law to confine a Roman cityzen before he was tried. We have record of other prisons. Appius Claudius con- RAMBLE II. 47 structed a prison for common offenders near the Forum Oli- torium , the scene of " Roman Charity. " Pliny mentions Statwnes Municipiorum, " barracks of the Municipal sol diers near the Forum of Julius Caesar. These may likewise have been prisons. In addition to these there was the Lau- T-nwitsn The iron door is the opening of a sewer leading into the Cloaca Maxima, by which means the dead bodies &c , were taken away. The stairs leading to the lower cell are modern. The Roman Catholic tradition is, that Sts Peter and Paul were confined here, and they show the pillar to which they are said to have been chained, tho' there are no marks of a staple having been fixed in the stone , as represented in the bronze bas-relief; and a fountain which miraculously sprang up when they had converted their keepers and they wished to be bapti zed. On the tufa, carefully guarded by iron bars, an indention is shown which they say was caused by the jailors beating Peter's face against the rock. (He must have had rather a hard head ! ) The floor was raised about eight feet, by filling it up with earth, and covering the surface of the earth with a bed of " Opus Signium. " It seems doubtful if these two chambers formed the whole of the Mamertine Prison and perhaps if ex cavations were made into the hill, behind the altar in the upper chamber, some further remains might be found. At a short distance from the prisons in the little lane opposite, " Vicolo del Ghettarello." are sorne remains; perhaps of the " STATIONES MUNICIPIORUM " AND FORUM OF JULIUS CAESAR. " Julius Caesar. " With money raised from the spoils of war, began to construct a new forum. " Suetonius. The site co sting about L. 807,291. This new forum was necessary, on account of the old Forum becoming to small for the public business. Pliny mentions the barracks as having been erected adjoining the Forum of Julius Caesar (lib XVI. Cp. 48). These remains consist of a series of six large chambers , each forty feet long and fourteen wide, divided by modern walls and par titions in various ways, and not easy of access. The walls are of tufa. The vaults are of brick with openings for letting down prisoners. The spring stone of the arches are of travertine. The holes for the timbers of the floor of the upper stories also remain in the walls. 48 RAMBLES IN ROME When Cato required the ground for his Basilica Porcia he bought the houses of "Maenius and Titius in the Lautumiae, and four shops. THE LAUTUMIAE was not only a district near the Forum but a prison , as the name signifies, made out of stone quarries. It is first mentio ned after the second Punic war— B. C. 201. Livy says it was a place for the custody of hostages and prisoners of war. when Q. M. Celer the consul was imprisoned there by the tribune L. Flavius. Celer attempted to assemble the senate in it, so we may infer that it was a large building. These re- ' mains may be those of the Lautamice , which was entirely distinct from the Mamertine prison. Mr. J. H. Parker C. B. who had these chambers excavated contends that they are part of the Mamertine Prison, and con nects them with the two chambers under the church of St Giu -• seppe dei Falegnam by means of the Cloaca Maxima, which he says is not the Cloaca but a connecting passage. My ob jections to his theory are. That Vitruvius tells us that the prison and Curia were an ornament to the Forum, speaking of them as two buildings, 2nd. The distance (over 100 yds) which seperates them. 3rd His connecting passage ; for if it was a passage in the prison and not the Cloaca it suredly would have been made in its entire length, high enough for the jailors to have walked upright in , which it is not , besides it is only wide enough for Indian file. 4th. The Clivus Argentarius went between these two buil dings, to the Porta Ratumena ; and the Scalar Gemonia?, went up, the left hand side of the prison, to the Capitol, thus divi ding tbem. 5th. The drain is of the same construction as the other parts of the Cloaca, and runs into it. Lastly THE CURIA HOSTILIA AFTEEWAEDS JULIA. Occupied part of the present site of the church of St Mar- tino, nearly opposite the Mamertine prison, and would obstruct. the view from the Forum of the remains in the " Vicolo del Ghettarello. " The Curia was the place where the Senate were accustomed to meet: built by Tullius Hostilius A. U. C. 100. It was de stroyed by fire when the body of the Tribune Clodius was burnt RAMBLE II. 49 A. H. C. 702. Rebuilt by Faustus the son of Sylla. Destroyed a second time, to do away with the name of Sylla, on pretence of erecting the Temple of Felicity. Rebuilt by Julius Caesar A. U. C. 711 completed by the Triumvirs, and consecrated by Augustus. It was approached by a flight of steps for Tarquin carried old Servius out of the Curia and threw him down the steps to the bottom. Again destroyed by fire under Titus and rebuilt by Domitian and called Senatus. An inscription for merly existed ir. the Ambo of the Church of S. Martino e Luca stating that the hemicycle formed part of the Secretarium Se natus , or secret room of the Senate house. The next building on this side of the Foum was THE BASILICA PORCIA the site is now partly occupied by the church of S. Adriano. " It was built by Cato the Censor below the Senate house in the Forum. " It is where the tribunes of the People used to hold their courts. Destroyed by fire : at the same time as the Curia. In laying the foundations of the church, 1665 a marble pedestal was found with an inscription in which a Basilica was mentioned. The front of the church is built upon some ancient walls. Pliny tells us it was celebrated for its columns of Phry gian marble. The Forum Piscatorium was behind, Plautus says " that the stench of the fish frequently droye the frequenters into the Forum Romanum. " The row of houses on this side of the Forum marks the site of THE BASILICA .-EMILIA. Built by Paulius jEmilius in the place where that of Ful- vius had stood. B. C. 53 Plutarch says that Paulius expended on it, the large sum of money he had receved from Caesar as a bribe. GALLERY OF ST. LUCA is on the left hand side, No 44, VIA BONELLA, open .every day from 9 till 3 — fee half a franc. The principal pictures are. In the Large Hall. 11. Bacchus and Ariadne by Poussin. 13. Virgin and child by Vandyke. St Jerome a sketch, by Titian. 22, 35 Sea pieces by Vernet. 40. Vanity by P. Veronese. 49 Vanity by Titian. 54. A seaport by Claude. Room of Portraits. A portrait of Virginie Le Brun, by hei'- self, Iris by Head, and a portrait of H. R. H. the late Duke 50 RAMBLES IN ROME of Sussex in the costume of an Officer of a Highland regi ment. 238. n ., „. Saloon of Raphael; Bacchus and Ariadne by Guido Kem. 28. Susanna by P. Veronese. 29. Calista and Nymphs by li- tian. 22, Venus and Cupid by Guercino. 25. Tarquin and Lucretia by Guido Cagnacci. 26. The Galatea copied by Giu lio Remano. 27. Fortune by Guido Reni. 15. St Luke pain ting the Virgin by Raphael. A Boy fresco by Raphael, (very beautiful and lifelike), formerly in a room of the Vatican. THE ARCH OF SEPTIMUS SEVERUS erected A. D. 205 in honour of the Emperor and his two sons Caracalla and Geta ; By the S. P. Q. R. The sculptures ador ning it are interesting, and represent his victories over the Parthians, Arabians, and Adiabenes. On the summit stood a chariot drawn by six horses, con taining the statues of the Emperor and his sons. The sculp tures represent details of the Roman Military harangues, sie ges, camps, assults with battering rams , and the submission of prisoners. The front towards the Forum represents the Emperor addressing his troops, the taking of Carrna, the seige of Nisibis. The front facing the Capitol represent another ha rangue, and the siege of Atra, the passage of the Euphrates, and Tigris. Immediately behind the arch are the remains of the TEMPLE OF CONCORD In a tulmult Camillas (B. C. 390) vowed, if the troubles between the Plebians and Patricians were brought to a happy conclusion, to build a Temple to Concord. The people being reconcilied the senate voted a Temple of Concord to be built facing the Assembly and Forum. It was- rebuilt by Augustus and dedicated by Tiberius and repaired by Septimus Severus. The remains consist of a platform basement. In A. D. 731-41 Gregory III built on this platform a church to St Sergius; rebuilt by Hadrian I, A piece of the brick work of that time remains, We next come to THE TEMPLE OF VESPASIAN. Vespasian having rendered such services by restoring the Capitol and collecting the records in the Tabularium, no more suitable site could be found for the erection of a temple to the deified emperor than in front of the old entrance to this RAMBLE II. 51 building. The three pillars, which are all that remain of the building, stand upon a lofty terrace ; and the skill of the ar chitect in concealing the limited depth of the space alloted to the temple, is shown in his having placed the columusofthe flank nearer to each other than those of the front. The beauty of this ruin excites universal admiration It ap proaches that of the temple of Castor and Pollux in the Fo rum. The inscription on the architrave , copied , whilst still entire, by a monk of the monastery of Einsiedeln in the eighth century, refers to the restoration of the building by Septimus Severus and Caracalla, who appear to have also restored other sanctuaries in the same neighbourhood. In a line near the above is THE TEMPLE OF SATURN. " The Temple was consecrated to Saturn, upon the ascent , leading from the Forum to the Capitol, before this the Altar of Hercules stood there. " Plutarch. Only eight Ionic columns , with their capitals , and archi traves, remain. It was on the steps of this temple that the generals took the oath that they had given a correct account of their spoil and prisoners. It contained the public Treasury. Suetonius tells us that Otho gave his accomplices notice to wait for him in the Forum near the Temple of Saturn at THE MILLIARIUM AUREUM. Set up by Augustus ; the remains of which is at the angle of the Temple on the side of the old Clivus Capitolinus, the ancient road leading up from the Forum. It was a gilded stone on which the distance of all the principal towns was marked, as from the Umbilicus Romae all distances within the walls were measured. In the corner, at the rear of this ruin, are the remains of the SCHOLA XANTHA, and the portico of the Dii Consenti, restored by Visconti in 1858, marked by eight Corinthian columns, partly modern, but with antique capitals and architraves ; and the cellae arranged in compact masonry behind them. So named from Fabius Xanthus a curator of the monuments who placed here the images of the Household Gods of Rome, Consentes because admitted to the council of Jove. The inscription tells us they mere rein stated under Vettius Pretextatus A. D. 367. 52 RAMBLES IN ROME These ruins are backed by the Tabularium (See page 38). Opposite the arch of Septimus Sevens is the COLUMN OF PHOCAS, intended to support the gilt status of that emperor , erected in 608, by Smaragdus, the exarch of Italy. In excavating close by, they have recently brought to light two valuable ba- - lustrades of bas-reliefs, representing on the two inner sides, bulls, rams, and sows, in a perfect state of preservation, and of fine workmanship, whilst the outsides are historic scenes, which latter are verv much defaced ; still sufficiently plain to show the design and beauty of the work. It represent the SUOVETAURILIA OR TRIPLE SACRIFICE which was performed once every five years , or Lustrum , for the purification of the city, it was an institution of Servius Tullius, the ceremony consisted of leading the ox , the sow , and the ram, thrice round the assembly of People , and then offering them to Mars. There is a similar Suovetaunha re presented on the pedestal at the entrance to the Palace of the. Caesars. They were discovered in the summer of 1872, a tower of th.e middle ages being built over them, this was destroyed and the stones of the balustrades fitted close together , they having fallen somewhat apart; and a new piece of marble was in serted under them, so that they do not now rest on the tra vertine as when found, but they are in exactly the same po sition. Unfortunately the end of one of the balustrades was not found. The side towards the Arch of Severus represents the institution of Orphan Schools throughout Italy by Trajan and the other the burning of the tax papers which taxes had been remitted to the people by Trajan. They are also inter esting as representing in their back-grounds the buildings which occupied the North and West sides of the Forum They mark the site of THE COMITIUM. From coire to agree, the place of the ratification of the treaty between the Romans and Sabines. Livy tells us it was an open space marked out in the Forum , where the assemblies , called " Comitia Curiata, " took place for the purpose of elec ting ministers of religions rites , making laws of a certam de- RAMBLE II. 53 scription, and deciding some suits , and inflicting punishment on criminals. " Domitian ordered the gallants of Cornelia, the president of the Vestal Virgins to be whipped to death with rods in the Comitium. " On the steps of the Comitium, (these must have been the steps leading up to the Curia ) on the left of the Curia, (Pliny says before the Curia,) stood the statue of Attius Navius , over the very spot where he had cut the whetstone in two with a razor. " " This statue ('Navius) stands before the senate house near to the holy fig-tree: it is less than a middle sized man and has a veil over its head, the fig tree was planted by Tarquinius in memory of this event." Dion Cassius. "Here also was the statue of Horatius Codes, which was once struck by lightning and over the blasted ground was erected the prsetoi s seat cal led Puteal Libonis because Libo constructed the tribunal. "" Livy. THE ROSTRA. " Stood on the Comitium in front of the Curia, " Varro from which the orators harangued the people assembled in the open air. It stood upon a circular basement, but the top was square, on the outside were fixed the brazen beaks which be longed to the captive vessels of the Antiates. About the Rostra were placed the statues of the ambassadores put to death by Lar Tolumnius King of Veii, and others who suffered on similar occassions. " " When Caius Gracchus brought in his bill to regulate the courts of judicature : there was one thing very remarkable : whereas the orators before him, in all addresses to the people, stood with their faces towards the Senate house and the Comi tium ; he then , for the first time, turned the other way, that is to say towards the forum and continued to speak in that po sition ever after, by this he intimated that the people ought to the addressed and not the senate. " Plutarch. Suetonius, tells us that on the death of Augustus. " Two funeral orations were pronounced in his praise, one before the Temple of Julius by Tiberius, and the other before the Rostra, under the old shops, by Drusus. " Some read this passage ; from the old Rostra, but our rendering is more correct, tho' in either case he is refering to the rostra that stood in front of the Cu ria. We thus see that there was a second Rostra before the temple of the Diefied Julius, built at the time the temple was built, or perhaps before by Caesar himself , as we know from Dion Cassius that Caesar encouraged the popular business to 54 RAMBLES IN ROME be carried on at the lower end of the forum and that he tur ned the steps of the Temple of Castorinto an extempor rostra, and that he built a new rostra. Livy says that. " Caesar s body was burnt before the plebian rostra." Ovid says his tem ple was built on the very spit; so evidently Caesar's Rostra was removed, and another built, when his temple was built; the remains of which we have in front of, and as it were in corporated with his temple. Caesar's Rostra must have stood somewhere about this spot;. for Cicero speaking from it against Mark Antony, bids his audience look to the left at the gilt equestrian statue of An tony, which stood before the temple of Castor., The Notitia, mentions three rostras in the Forum. We have, then to find another. Claudius II, (268- 70). had a Statue dedicated to him, in the Rostra, it was a column surmounted by a statue clothed with the tunica palmata. This gave to the place the designation " ad Palmam, " which was near the arch of Septimus Severus , by which we must look for the third rostra. A bas-relief on the Arch of Constantine represents the buil dings on the Clivus Capitolinus, with that Emperor addressing the people from tho rostra. Now on the Clivus, between the Arch of Septimus Severus and the Temple of Saturn, are the remains of an elevated platform, presenting the segment of a circle , partly faced with marble , this is the remains of the Rostra " ad Palmam. " Some authorities call these remains on the Clivus. The Ro stra veteres, or the original rostra. But it does not answer classic description. It does not stand on the Comitium or before the Curia, nor under the old shops. Besides it looks down the Forum, so from here, how could Gracchus have turned from the Senate house and Comitium towards the Forum. The next object of interest in this open space was disco vered in December 1872 it is THE PEDESTAL OF THE STATUE OF DOMITIAN. The Statue was destroyed by the people at his death and the base of the pedestal is all we have left, standing upon the tra vertine pavement of the Forum. It is interesting to Archaeolo gists as putting to rest tho arguments in reference to the names and positions of the different buildings in the Forum. For the Poet Statius in Sylvar lib. I, 1, 22 describes the re- RAMBLE II. 55 lative position of the different buildings and this statue. He tells us that the statue was situated in the middle of the Fo rum, near the Curtian Lake , In front of it was the temple of the Deified Julius, behind it was the Temples of Vespasian and Concord ; on one side the Basilica Julia and on the other the Basilica iEmilia whilst the rider looked towards the Tem- plo of Vesta and tho Imperial Palace. Suetonius tell us that the tablet inscribed upon tho base of his triumphal statue , was carried away by the violence of a storm and fell upon a neighbouring monument. The line of brick pediments bordering upon the Via Sacra, were the bases of honarary statues. Crossing the Via Sacra. The large space beyond marks the. BASILICA JULIA. On the site of the Basilica Sempronia. The old pavement around the Basilica and that of the Via Sacra has been well exposed and put in proper condition for preservation; the remnants of frieze, and cornices and columns found in the dig gings have been set up on brick pedestals. The old bits of pavement have been very smoothly linked together by the laying of Venetian mosaic cement, and the contrast between the mo dern and the antique is very apparent. It was built by Julius Caesar and called Julia after his daughter It was destroyed by fire ; and rebuilt by Augustus. It was again destroyed by another fire, and rebuilt A. D. 283. Suetonius tells us that Caligula during three days successively, scattered money, to a prodigious amount among the people, from the top of the Julian Basilica. " The form was oblong; the middle was an open space to walk in, called Testudo, and which we now call the nave. On each side of this were rows of pillars, which formed what we should call the side-aisles, and which the ancients called Porticus. The end of the Testudo was curved, like the aspe of some of our churches, and was called Tribunal, from causes being heard there. Hence the term Tri bune is applied to that part of Roman Chuches which is hehind the high altar. " Burton. The ancient road-way running towards the Cdpitol is the old VIA SACRA, which ran from the Colosseum the whole length of the Forum up to the Capitol, the " Summa " or top is now occupied by the arch of Titus. Pliny tells us that Julius Caesar once 56 RAMBLES IN ROME shaded the whole Forum and Via Sacra from his own house, as far as the Clivus Capitolinus. At the end of the Basilica Julia it turned off to the left and to the right another street (Vicus Tuscus) branched out of it to the Forum Boanum. in different parts the rutts caused by the chariot wheels mav 'be seen. Just beyond is a spring, no doubt the same at which the twin gods, Castor and Pollux, washed their horses after fighting for Rome in the battle of Lake Regillus, when they announced to the people that the battle was won. Similar stories are told by Florus. When the Romans conquered Perses king of Macedonia the twin Gods washed themselves at the Lake of Juturna; and when they defeated the Figunni the Gods were seen to deliver a letter to the praetor in front of their temple. Near this spot arose the TEMPLE OF CASTOR AND POLLUX. Founded by Aulus Posthumius A. U. C. 268 — 74. It was afterwards rebuilt by Lucius Metellus. " Tiberius dedicated the Temple of Castor and Pollux, which had been rebuilt out of the spoils of the German war , in his own and his brothers name. " Suetonius. Caligula converted it into a kind of vesti bule to his house. The three magnificent pillars still standing belonged to the side facing the Palatine. They indicate approximatively the south east boundary of the Forum. The narrower front looked down from a terrace of considerable elevation upon this place, and was connected with it by means oi a double flight of stairs, the remains of which were discovered during excavations made some time ago. These pillars, as well as the fragment of the architrave and cornice supported by them , are among the most beautiful architectural remains of ancient Rome. The ornaments of the capitals and of the- entablature are as rich and splendid as they are pure and simple. It is therefore probable that they belong to the time of Tiberius and Caligula. Opposite the church St Maria Liberatrice which stands near this ruin is the site of the celebrated TEMPLE OF VESTA. Founded by Numa Pompilius, the roof was covered with the bronze of Syracuse. It was burnt under Nero and Commodus and rebuilt by Septimus Severus. It was the conservatory of the Palladium, or holy fire. The number of Virgins was origi nally four afterwards increased to six. They were bound to their Ministry for thirty years. If they broke their vow they RAMBLE II. 57 were buried aliv«. In the 16th century twelve inscriptions relative- to the Virgins were found near the church. • In the excavations in front of the church the remains of the podium of the temple can be seen. Behind the church are the remains of a large square brick building. THE REGIA NUMJ1. " Numa erected a palace near the Temple of Vesta , called to this day Regium. " Plutarch. Horace savs. " We see the Yellow Tiber, its waves violently forced back from the Tuscan shore, proceed to demolish the monuments of the Kings and the Temple of Vesta. " It was the residence of the Pontifex Maximus , or chief priest. " Augustus presented the Regia to the Vestal Virgins because it adjoined their residence. " Dion Cassius lb. 27. In the grove behind was the LAKE OF JUTURNA. The sister of Turnus, immortalized by Jupiter, and turned into a fountain, whose waters were used in Vesta's sacrifices, and had curative powers. I suppose it to have been near where the round Church of SAN TEODORO stands. Founded by Gregory the Great and rebuilt A. D. 1451 by Nicholas V evidently upon the site of some ancient buil ding. The Roman women bring their children here every Thursday morning, to be blessed, after their recovery from sickness. It is a very ancient custom and may have origi nated from the sick people who used to resort to the fountain of Juturina to drink the waters. On the other side of the Temple of Castor and Pollux on the right-hand side of the Via Sacra, are the remains of THE TEMPLE OF THE DIEFIED JULIUS. (discovered .Uny 1873). Ovid describes it " as close to Castor and Pollux having its aspect towards the Forum and Capitol on the very where the body of Caesar was burnt." It was small with only four co lumns in front , as we learn from a medal. Suetonius tell us that a column of Numidian marble 20 ft high was erected to Caesar in the Forum , inscribed To. the 58 RAMBLES IN ROME Father of his country. The Temple was erected on a lofty basement and a Rostra - was built in front of it by the Tnum- vers, before the battle of Philippi, and completed by Augustus. The lofty basement and the platform of the Rostra still re main. SHOPS IN THE FORUM. Tarquinius Priscus caused Porticoes and Shops to be erec ted round the Forum, liv. 1, 35 : Dionys III 67. When others were built they were distinguished by the name Ve- teres Tabernae and Novae Tabernae. They consisted of But chers Shops, Schools, Bootmakers Shops, etc. : these were_ af terwards turned into silversmiths shops. They were provided with balconies, which extended beyond the columns supporting the porticoes, which were called Maeniana and painted with different subjects. It was at one of these shops , that the tribune. L. Virgi nias, took the knife; that saved Virginia's honour from Ap- pius Claudius. B. C. 449. We have seen that Suetonius, in his account of the honours paid to the memory of Augustus speaks of the Rostra, as being under the old shops. Cicero compares these Tabernae with the old and new Academy, and tells us that the Novae were ex posed to the sun. From these one side of the Forum was cal led Sub Veteribus, and the other Sub Novis. Pliny tells us of " a raven that was hatched upon the roof of the temple of Castor and Pollux ; and flew into a bootma kers shop opposite. Every morning it used to fly to the Ro stra which looked towards the Forum , (The Rostra Julia, ) where it would salute the Emperor Tiberius, Germanicus, Dru sus and others, as they passed, after which it returned to the shop. This it did for several years, till the owner of an op position shop through jealously , killed him , for which the man was put to death ; and such a favourite had the bird be come that he had a public funeral, and was buried in the field of Rediculus on the right-hand side of the Via Appia at the second milestone. No such crowds had ever escorted the fune ral of any one, out of the whole number of Romo's distingui shed men. " Livy speaking of the fire in the Forum. B. C. 211 says " At the same time the seven shops , afterwards replaced by five silversmiths, that are now called new, were burnt " near which was the shrine of Venus Cluacina , erected in comme moration of Tarquins constructing the cloaca. RAMBLE II. 59 THE CLOACA MAXIMA (see Ramble 4). _ Under the old Forum pavement so newly cemented together, is the sewer which drained this part of the old city between the Palatine and Capitoline hills. The Cloaca Maxima, is ex posed to view at the south east end of the Basilica Julia , containing a large stream of water rushing along , as it did two thousand years ago. FRAGMENTS of different buildings lie scattered about, to what edifices they belonged ". pronounce who can. " More than two hundred columns, and fifty capitals of exquisite workmanhip have been discovered in the excavations of the Fornm. Near the comitium, is a pedestal with the following inscription To the annihilator of Tyrants, and the authnr of Public safety, to our constant and felicitous Lord, AKCADIUS AUGUSTUS Albinus. Prefect of the city. etc. has erected this. Having now made the circuit of the Forum we will proceed, as was Horace's wont, along the Via Sacra. The first object that attracts our attention is the TEMPLE OF ANTONINUS AND FAUSTINA. Erected by Antoninus Pius A. D. 160. Dedieated by the se nate on his death to himself and wife who were diefied. The • vestibule of this edifice, composed of eight Corinthian pillars of variegated green marble (cipollino) supporting an architrave and part of the cellae, built of square blocks of tra vertine, still remain. The architrave is adorned at each side with arabesque candelabra guarded, as it were by griffins. The Portico was excavated in 1810, the ascent to the Tem ple from the Via Sacra, was found to be by a flight of 21 steps, effecting an altitude of 15' ft. Before the steps was a slightly elevated profanum. It now-fouas the portico to the church of 60 RAMBLES IN BOME ST LORENZO IN MIRANDA. We have been informed that the Superintendent of the ex cavations has petitioned the Government to allow all those monuments, which like the temple of Antoninus and Faustina have been used as Catholic Churches, and now closed; to be reopened to the public as ancient Historical monuments. Beyond is the CHURCH OF ST COSMO E DAMIANO occupying the site and built out of the remains of three Tem ples by Felix IV A. D. 527. The subterranean church contains a spring said to have been called forth by St. Felix. THE TEMPLE OF ROMULUS SON OF MAXENTIUS. Forms the Vestibule of the present church. It was a cir cular building and fronted on to the Via Sacra. The second temple Felix made into the Nave of the Church it was quadran gular and built of opus lateritium, Alban stone. The third temple he converted into the sacristy. It was of opus qua- dratum, blocks of peperino. These second and third temples formed the double TEMPLE OF VENUS AND ROMA, erected by Hadrian in 134; it was the largest and most sump tuous in Rome. It was designed by Hadrian himself, who sent the drawings to the celebrated architect Apollodorus, whom he had banished, to ask his opinion. He replied " That Hadrian ought to have made it more lofty ; and with subterraneous ac comodations for receiving, as occassion might require, the ma chinery of the theatre , and for giving it a more imposing aspect towards the Via Sacra. That as to the statues , they were so disproportionate, that if the goddesses desired to get up and walk out, they would not be able. " Dion Cassius. For this criticism Apollodorus lost his head ; and we learn;. that the temple was not on a lofty platform; that there was no subterranean chambers, and that it was not imposing to wards the Via Sacra. The front was towards the side of the temple of Antonins and Faustina , looking down the Via Sa- lara Vecchia. It is mentioned by Prudentius as being before the Via Sacra. RAMBLE II. 61 " The Sacred way resounded (they say) with lowings before the shrine of Rome ; for she also herself is worshipped with blood after the fashion of a Goddess, and the name of the place (Rome) is regarded as a divinitv. The temples also of the city and of Venus rise with a like roof; and at one and the same time flankincenso is consumed to the twin gods. " It could not have faced the Via Sacra, or Maxentius would not have built the temple of his son against it. A. D. 311. The bronze doors of the present church were found at Pe rugia by Urban 8th. The two columus of porphyry, with the cornice, and the two cipollino columns beyond, are supposed to have been found amongst the ruins when the church was built. On the right side of the present church is a piece of wall of Alban stone of opus lateritium. At the back is the brick wall on which the celebrated Pinta Capitolina was originally attatched ( see page 34 ) by means of cement and clamps ; and which was found below the soil under the wall, having been shook down by an earthquake. Suetonius tells us that Nero's colossus stood in the vestibule of his palace. Martial says "It was removed by Vespasian, when he built the Temple of Peace, to where the atrium, (a more inward part), was. " Spartian informs us that " Hadrian removed, it with 24 elephants, from the place where now stands the Temple of the City. " Thus we learn that where the Temple of Rome is, that spot was formerly the atrium of Nero's Golden HousS; and that the Temple of Peace occupied the Vestibule. " Maxentius restored the Temple of Venus and Rome, which had been damaged by fire. " Aur Victor Caes C. 40. The Emperor Heraclius gave permission to Pope Honorius I to remove the bronze tiles of this temple in order to use them for the roof of St Peter's; hence they were stolen by the Sara cens in 846. Dion Cassius tolls us that " Cleopatra' s statue in gold is to be seen in the Temple of Venus to this day. " Also that " the senate ordered two statues of silver to be erected in the Temple of Venus, one in honour of Faustinia and the other in honour of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius. They likewise or dered an altar to be set up before it, on which every contrac ted couple was to sacrifice before marriage. " -. N. B. The ruin usually called the Temple of Venus and Rome is beyond this on our left , which we shall come to presently see page 72. . Keeping along the sacred way on our left is the 62 RAMBLES IN ROME BASILICA OF CONSTANTINE, the colossal arches of which have served as models to archi tects for all the larger churches in Rome. This splendid ruin usually bears the name of the Temple of Peace , erected by- Vespasian in this neighbourood and partly on this site , and which was destroyed by fire as early as the time of ComraOT dus. A. D. 191. Herodian who saw the fire says "By the slight earthquake and the thunder-bolt which followed it , the whole of the sacred enclosure was consumed. " Claudius Ga- lenus, the celebrated physician, says that the whole edifice was consumed as also most of his writings which were in his shop, in the Via Sacra. Nibby has the merit of having been the first to prove that these ruins are the last remains of the Basilica erected by Maxentius; and completed, and partially rebuilt by Constan tine the Great. In 1828 a medal of Maxentius' was found amongst the ruins of a piece of the vault which fell down. The principal entrance was originally on the side facing the Colosseum towards a street that ran out from the left of th'e Via Sacra, which turning to the right, reached the Colosseum. " At a later period it may have been found more suitable to add a splendid portal on the side facing the Via Sacra; op posite to which, in the central side-arch, a tribune was erec ted. The nave was thus , to a certain extent , converted into a transept, and the whole assumed the form of a Greek cross. Of the vast vaulted arches spanning the middle space , only the supports from which the arches sprang, still exist. These, however , suffice to indicate what they must have been. " The Via Sacra here passed along the front of the present church of St Francis Romano , and then under the arch of Titus, to the Colosseum. By applying at No. 61, VIA DEL COLOSSEO. at the back of the Basilica, permission will be given to ascend to the top, from which a magnificent view is obtained. Im mediately opposite is the entrance to the PALACE OF THE CAESARS occupying the Palatine Hill. (Open) every day, admission one lira, Sunday free. In order to fully understand these ruinsr it is advisable to attend the lectures given on the spot by the author of these Rambles, Mr. S. Russell Forbes. Who con ducts visitors over , ANY DA Y , by appointment ; descri bing the remains of the Arcadian, Kingly, Republic, and VJ.M.TBLE IL 63 THE PALATINE HILL xnno j puis jx^sbo jo etduwi Septizonium, Via Triumphalis, 64 RAMBLES IN ROME Imperial periods. Tickets 4 lire each to be had at Monal- dini's Library 79 and 80 Piazza di Spagna. The foundations of most magnificent buildings of the impe rial times lie buried in the garden. The paintings on the walls are in themselves sufficient to give us an idea of the splendour of the internal decorations of the Roman palaces. The streets. temples, palaces, etc. ; are everywhere designated with notices of the most important passages in ancient literature, relating to them ; tho' some of these are open to doubt. Some beau tiful views may be had from various parts of the gardens, from the tower near the entrance, as well as looking over the site of the CIRCUS MAXIMUS, which occupied the valley bet ween the Palatine and Aventine hills. In our description of the Palatine we have classed the remains in chronological order. In the accompanying plan they are numbered in the order in which they are best vi sited, The numbers correspond with those placed by the title of the different ruins in the guide. So that the visitor can follow the numbers consecutively in their Ramble and turn to the corresponding number for the description. ROMA QUADRATA. 5, 6, 8, 19, 33, 36, 37, 38, 39. 40. Romulus, the son of Rhea Silvia and Mars. Founded Rome on the Palatine hill, above the Tiber, 753, B. C. on the site of the Arcadian city of Evander, near the Lupercal, where the wolf had given him suckle. The city was built after the Etru scan rights, and surrounded by a massive wall, in a quadran gular form, whence it was called Roma Quadrata.' " The city was entered by three Gates " Pliny. Porta Mugonia on the - East at the summa Via Nova ; Porta Romanulam on the North at the foot of the Clivus Victoriae; and Porta Carmenta on the West, where massive walls and steps can be seen answering Vir gil's description. Mnid VIII. Romulus' city was built upon the western half of the Palatine called Germalis , the other half being called Velia. Vast remains of the wall of Romulus can be traced. " THE HOUSE OF ROMULUS was where the Roma Quadrata ended, at the corner as you turn from the Palatine hill to the circus. " Dionysius. THE TEMPLE OF JUPITER STATOR, 13 vowed by Romulus when his army was fleeing before the" Sabmes, if Jupiter would stay their flight, hence the name. RAMBLE II. 65 " It was situated at the beginning of the Via Sacra where the people ascended to the Palatine hill. " Destroyed A. D. 65 by the Fire under Nero. Substructions still remain. HOUSE OF THE TARQUINS, 12. " Looking on the Via Nova; for the King dwelt at Jupiter Stator's temple. " Livy. The site is marked by the brickwork foundations, and some small chambers. UNDER THE REPUBLIC. It was not till the glories of the Republic outshone the me mory of the Kings, that the Palatine became the favourite residence of the wealthy. We have record of the houses inha bited by Vaccus, Catulus, Crassus, The Gracchi, Ceneus, Ci cero, Scaurus, Mark Antony, and other notorious republicans. ALTER TO AIUS LOQUENS, 35. Still standing, was erected 124 B. C, on the site where Ca- millus had erected a Temple in the undertermined state , to the unknow voice that warned Marcus Cedicius of the approach ing Gauls 391, B.C. TEMPLE OF JUPITER VICTOR, 21. Founded during the Samnito war by Fabius Maximus (326-04 B. C.) overlooking the Circus Maximus. The Remains consist of tufa substructions , steps leading up to the Temple , and some peperino fragments. The circular altar on the steps , found close by , bears an inscription to Calvinus Consul B. C. 53-40. THE HOUSE OF GERMANICUS, 10. Called erroneously by various authorities the House of Clau dius Nero, of Livia, of Augustus. It was incorporated into the Imperial Palace by Tiberius, though for very many years it pre served its distinctive title. Josephus tells us that " Caligula was killed in a private narrow passage within the palace as he was going to the bath, having turned from the direct road along which his servants had gone. The passages also were narrow wherein the work was done and crowded with Caius' atten dants whence it was that they went by other ways, and came to the house of Germanicus; which house adjoined to the pa- 66 RAMBLES IN ROME lace. " A cripto-portice still connects this house with the palace Of Caligula, another going off at right angles to the House ot Augustus. We have here a good specimen of a Roman house, in the vestibulum are remains of the mosaic floor and frescoed walls. .The Atrium still shows the pattern of its pavement. The Tncli- niarium is ornamented with frescoes of arabesque work , ani mals and fountains, also with mosaic pavement. The Tabli- nium, in three parallel halls, painted with beautiful arabesque groups, wreaths of flowers and fruit, a group of Galatea and Polyhymnia ; another of Mercury. Io, and Argus. A view of a Roman street, a lady at her toilet etc. Behind these is the Peristylium out of which opens the bedrooms, bath, kitchen etc. In the centre Tablinium are some leaden pipes found in the excavations stamped with the names of Julia , Domitian, and Niger ; The daughter of Augustus, the Emperor, and the in surgent. THE PALACES OF THE CAESARS gradually incorporated the whole of the Palatine buildings, and when we speak of the Palace of tho Caesars it not meant that it was one, but different Palaces, built by different Em perors, called after them, and connected with those previously erected, by cripto porticos. THE HOUSE OF AUGUSTUS, «. " He resided in a small house, formerly belonging to Hor- tensius " Suetonius. This was destroyed by fire and rebuilt by contributions of the public. It was situated in the Valley between the Germalis and Velia. The Palace was destroyed by Fire under Titus A. D. '72. The remains not now acces sible being under the Convent, were explored and partly ex cavated some years ago. From the Palace of Domitian (17) we can descend into some of the small chambers, the Vault of one being addorned with a fresco representing Victory. THE TEMPLE OF APOLLO. " Built by Agustus in commemoration of the Victory of Actium, rose on a lofty flight of steps, Here were preserved the copies of the Sibylline oracles. " Pliny. " It was ornamen ted with a portico in which stood the statues of the fifty dau ghters of Danae, with their husbands. A library of Greek RAMBLE II. 67. and Latin Authors was attatched. " Suetonius. It is suppo sed to have stood in the ground occupied by the Villa Mills. THE GELOTIANA, 32. Mentioned by Suetonius as from where Caligula viewed the games in the Circus Maximus ; and supposed to have been a house occupied by the guard and servants of the Palace. Its ruin consists of chambers at the base of the hill , under the convent. It was here that the skit of the Crucifixion, now in the Museum of the Collegio Romano, was found, (see Pa ge 22). The walls are still covered with names etc. scratched by the soldiers. THE HOUSE OF TIBERIUS, 3. We learn from Suetonius and Tacitus that it was situated on the western side of the Palatine, overlooking and commu nicating with the Velabrum. The remains consist of vast substructions, and a row of arches supposed to have been the quards quarters. THE PALACE OF CALIGULA, 2. " Having continued part of the Palatine, as far as the Fo rum he converted the Temple of Castor and Pollux into the vestibule of his house. " " He built a bridge over the Temple of the Diefied Augustus by which he joined the Palatine to the Capitol. " Suetonius. He connected his palace with that of Tiberius by means of Porticos. The remains consist of a suite of rooms, portions built over the Clivus Victoriae, Cham bers with fresco and stucco decorations, and mosaic pavements, also a portion of the beautiful marble balustrade of the Sola rium. Suetonius tells us that this palace was destroyed by fire, in fact most of the remains show the construction of Hadrian, who must have incorporated the remains into his Palace. THE PASSAGE HOUSE OF NERO. " He completed his palace by continuing it from the Pa latine to the Esquiline .calling it at first The Passage house, but after it was burnt down and rebuilt , The Golden House, (see Ramble 5). 68 RAMBLES IN ROME There are some remains on the East side of the Palatine as also on the south and part of the aqueduct, for supplying the palace. THE PALACE OF DOMITIAN, 17. " He used the remains of Augustus' palace , destroyed by fire in the second year of the reign of Titus, filling in the chambers of the earlier buildings with earth, so that they lorm- ed a solid foundation. " He embelished the Portico, in which he took his airing, with polished stone so that he might ob serve if any one approached him. " Suetonius. The remains consist of The Tablinium, or summer parlour ; The Laranum, or hall of the household Gods; The bed-chamber where he was assassinated ; The Tricliniarium , or dining room ; The Peristylium, or open court; The Nymphaeum, or fountain; The Vometarium. The Crypto porticos, and Ostia Publica con necting it with the other Palaces. THE BASILICA JO VIS, 16. Where justice was administered by the Emperor, where it is supposed St Paul appeared before Nero, and where Sts Sil vester and Lawrence were afterwards tried. Remarkable for the width of the nave. A beautiful piece of the tribune rail still stands in situ. THE STADIUM, 26. On the East side of the Palatine built by Domitian , and only partly excavated, used for races both for men and women. THE EXEDRA or ODEUM, 27. on the right of the Stadium for musical performances , with three chambers underneath decorated with fresco work. THE PALACE OF COMMODUS, 25, 29. Stood on the South East side of the hill. He constructed a passage from the Palatine to the arena of the Colosseum. He was strangled in his chamber and his successor Pertinax was stabbed in the same palace. This also seems to have been the palace of Septimus Severus, Caracalla, and Alexander Se verus. The remains consist of numerous chambers, corridors , RAMBLE II. 69 and vaults, still retaining some of their mosaic pavements and stucco roofs, with walls built into them in a very confused manner, showing different alterations, THE SEPTIZONIUM. Erected by Septimus Severus to impress his countrymen com ing -from Africa with the magnificence of the Imperial Pal ace, -but never completed. It was partly pulled down by Pope Sextus V to help build St Peter's. It was called Septizonium from the form of the ground which it enclosed, During the middle ages it served as a fortress for different parties. THE PORTICO, 30. Now forms a pleasant terrace, from which a splendid pro spect of the Southern part of ancient Rome, the Campagna, and the distant Alban hills , may be enjoyed. In fact a vast study is spread, like a map, before the visitor. The Museum, 42, contains fragments found in the excava tions. Leaving the Palatine vie pass under THE ARCH OF TITUS. ' On the ridge of the Velia hill, which forms a continuation of the Palatine, and separates the hollow of the Forum from that of the Colosseum, a triumphal arch was erected (though not till after his death and deification) to Titus, the conqueror of Jerusalem. The reliefs, still preserved within the arch, are among the most remarkable of the kind existing in Rome as to the position they occupy in the history of art and of the world. We find here not only the Emperor standing in the triumphal chariot in which he advanced to the temple of Ju piter Capitolinus, but also the ark of the covenant , and the seven-branched candlestick, borne in this triumphal procession as the most precious spoils of the Jewish temple. " There wes a golden table which weighed many talents : it was constructed upon a different principal from anything in use amongst us now. In the middle was the main stem which, rose out of the base; from this proceed smaller bran ches, very much resembling the form of a trident, and on the top of each of them was a lamp worked in brass there were seven such in all, emblematic of the seven days of the Jewish week. The law of the Jews was the last of those spoils in the procession. The legs of the table were perfectly finished in the lower half, like those the Dorians put upon their couches; but the upper half of them was worked square. " Josephus. 70 RAMBLES, IN ROME Two censers were placed upon the Table; in front of the table are' two trumpets crossed. (See Exodus C.XXV. V.26. These spoils were deposited by Vespasian in the Temple of Peace. After the sack of Rome A. D. 465 the Vandal King, Genseric, carried them to Carthage. Belisarius recovered them and took them to Constantinople : and they were transfered from there to the Christian Church in Jerusalem. Procopius de Bell Vandalic Lib. I, cp. 5, and Lib. II Cp. 9. It is supposed that when Chosroes, King of Persia, took Je rusalem in 614 that they passed into his hands ; for all traces of them has been lost since then. On the opposite side. The Emperor Titus in a chariot drawn by four horses, pre ceded by Romans wearing laurel wreaths and carrying the fa sces, Behind the chariot Victory is in the act of placing a crown on the Emperor's head. The Vault is ornamented with square coffers and roses, and in the centre the Apotheosis of Titus, in square relief. At this point of the Via Sacra the Clivus Palatinus led up to the Palatine, on the right. " Clcelia had her statue in the Via Sacra as you go up to the Palaline. " Plutarch. Passing through the Arch of Titus. On our right are some remains of the Frangipani fortress , a tower of the Middle ages. Some substructions and walls, as it were supporting the Pa latine hill, of the Domus Transitoria, or passage House of Nero. And remains of the Baths and TEMPLE OF THE SUN built by Heliogabalus, on the slopes of the Palatine , for the worship of the Syro- Phenician sun God , which was repre sented by a black conical stone, set with gems. Heliogabalus broke into the Temple of Vesta intending to remove The Pal ladium to his Temple of the sun ; But the Virgins by a pius fraud, defeated his object, on discovering which he broke into their sanctuary and carried off one of the Virgins to add to his list of wives. This Temple was built to Orcus (i e) Pluto and changed to that of the Sun, around this was the Lavacrum or gratuitous baths. This temple was converted in the ninth century into the Church of S. Maria, -the apse and part of the altar re mains, also the marble columns of the portico. On our left is a large platform partly formed out of the Velia ridge and partly artificial occupied by the RAMBLE II. 71 CHURCH OF Sta FRANCISCA ROMANA. Built in the 9th century and called Sta Maria Nuova. The mosaic on the apse dates from 862. There is a monument to Gregory XI and a relief representing the return of the Pa pal court to Rome from Avignon. Near by are the two stones marked with depressions said to have been where Peter kneelt when he prayed that Simon Magus might fall. See picture in St Peter's. The church contains a beautiful marble ciborium and monuments to Cardinal Vulcani, 1322; and General Ri- do 1475. Behind the church is a beautiful ruin comprising a double Apse which for want of a better name we will call a DELUBRA. wheii a building was inaugurated after consecration it was called a Templum, a Delubrum was an isolated building sur rounded with an area dedicated to religious purposes. This because it was double, having two aspects, two distinct cells, etc. we call in the plural number Delubra. The remains consist of two large tribunals , back to back, with a portion of tho lateral walls and vaults. The wall in the Monastery gardens is apsidal, the other is rectangular The name of this building is entirely lost; all we know about it is that it is of the time of Maxentius and Constan tine A, D. 306 — 337 the construction showing it to be of that time, besides Nibby found in the walls bricks stamped with the name of Maxentius. Nearly all late authorities have called this ruin The Temple of Venus and Rome. Now it could not possibly be that Tem ple; for we are told distinctly, as we have already seen, by Apollodorus that the Temple of Rome was not built on a platform, besides the Temple of Rome was built by Hadrian A. D. 1 18 = 38 and these remains are of the time of Maxen tius and Constantine A. D. 306 — 37. This ruin has been likewise called the temple of the Sun and Moon and has been an archaeological controversy for many years ; tho' a great number of authorities are agreed in calling it the temple of Venus and Rome. Mr J. H. Parker. C. B. considers this platform to have been the site of the Portico of Livia and fits the fragment of the marble plan showing that portico to this site; and that the two tribunes,, of a later date, are market halls of the time of Maxentius and Constantine. 72 RAMBLES IN ROME We cannot agree with him, though we believe that the portico stood not very far from here. The front of this platform, towards the Colosseum was discovered in 1828 to have been used, during the middle ages as a cemetery, several coffins of terra cotta oeing exhumed. At the corners are the remains of steps which led from be low up to the delubra. Near the left-hand steps, in descen ding, is the remains of the PEDESTAL OF NERO'S COLOSSUS which as we have seen ; first stood in the vestibule of his house,"" then where the atrium was, hence it was removed by Hadrian with 24 eliphants, to this spot, as is shown on a coin of Ale xander Severus. It was 120 ft high. Vespasian radiated the head to make it represent the Sun. Commodus took off Nero's head and replaced it with his own. THE PORTICO OF LIVIA. Its site has been placed by different authorities in various positions, but none seem satisfactory. We give our notice of it here , as from classic mention it must have stood in this neighbourhood. Without pointing out the actual site we will transcribe what notices we have of it. Pliny tells us that " Augustus pulled down the house of Vedius Pollio and built a portico in its room which he called by the name of Livia. " It was dedicated by Tiberius and Livia, A.U. 0. 747 (i. e.) B. C. 6 in the 21st year of the reign of Augustus. Near the Li via Porticus, Ovid says : " The too 0 Concord , does Livia enshrine in a gorgeous temple, thee, whom she bestowed upon her beloved husband. But know, generations to come, that where the Portico of Livia now is, once stood the building of an immense house. One house was the work of a whole city; and it occupied a space, a smaller than which many towns contain within their walls. This was levelled with the ground, under no accusation of one aiming at sovereign power, but because, by its gorgeousness, it was deemed injurious to public virtue. Caesar had the moral courage to level so vast a pile of build ings; and himself, the heir to it, to lose so much property of his own " The ground plan of this portico is marked on the Pianta Capitolina (A. D. 275) which shows it to have been of quadrangular form, with some structure in the centre, pro bably a fountain. " Parts not cover were shaded with vines. " " Trajan sometimes dispenced justice in the public palace of RAMBLE II. 73 Augustus, sometimes in Livia's Portico and sometimes in other places. " Pliny. Now, as to its site. In the Regionary catalogue in Regio 'Tertia, Isis et Serapis Moneta we have mentioned after the above temple, Templum Concordia virilis cum delubro; and a little further on Porticus Livioz, juxta templum concordice virilis. Below this is mentioned Porticus Claudii Martialis and Amphitheatrum Vespasiani. By this wo see that the Por tico was in the same regio as the Colosseum, hard by the tem ple of manly Concord. In Regio quarta, Via Sacra, alias Tem plum Pads we have the Templum Concordice. in porticu Li vioz and next after it Templum divi Nerval in Foro transi- torio. This was Ovid's temple of Concord and was not in the same regio as the Portico consequently it could not have been in but near the Portico of Livia. The following are important notices which show that the Portico was between the house of Pliny and Spurinna. " I (Pliny) sent word back, I would call upon him; (Spurinna) however, both of us mutually setting out to pay this visit, we met under Livia's Portico. " " He (Martial) addresses himself to the Muse , whom he directs to go to my house upon the Esquilise " Pliny. We gather from this that the Portico was not upon the Esquiline but that Pliny dwelt there, unfortunately we do not know where abouts Spurinna lived; perhaps in the neighbourhood of the Forum and the direct way, from there to the Esquiline would be through Livia's Portico. Hadrian would hardly have built his temple of Venus and Rome in the Portico of Livia supposing that it occupied the platform in from of the Colosseum, but that ruin is not of his time but of Constantine and Maxentius and they likewise were not likely to have erected that building in the Portico. The erection in the centre of the Portico marked on the marble plan does not correspond with that ruin for the plan was made be fore that ruin vas built; and the portico was standing entire in the fourth century being mentioned in the Curiosum Vrbis and Notizia independently of the Temple of Venus and Rome. This portico must not be confounded with the Macellum Livianum which was in Regio Quinta; on the Esquiline and which site has been identified by finding (march 1875) a pe destal having on its front an inscription referring to restora tions, made in the fifth century to the Macellum and adjoining Forum Esquilinum. The Via del Colosseo leads into the Piazza delle Car- rette and about here. I am inclined to place the portico of Livia. At the back of this Piazza is a small street, Via dell'Agnello 74 RAMBLES IN ROME and built into the houses are some fragments of Columns; and in the gardens of the houses in the Via del Cardello are re mains of a massive wall that may have formed part of Livia s Portico. The Carina and Subur-a streets were near . at hand and they are mentioned as being in the same Regio as the Porticus Liviae. According to the scale of the planta the Por tico was 374 ft by 244 whilst the platform is 440 ft by 270 \ besides the surroundings on the plan do not correspond with this site and does not show the arch of Titus, though according to this theory it shows the road passing under the arch. In a line with Nero's pedestal is the. META SUDANS. the remains of a fountain, erected by Titus, repaired by Do mitian and Gordianus, which stood in the centre of a large circular basin. Popular tradition narrates that the gladiators used to wash here after combat; certainly possible, but not very probable, that they would come outside to wash at an open fountain. The epitheth meta sudans or sweating goal, is supposed to be taken from the perpetual issue of foaming water or because it contributed to satisfy the thirst of the audience at the Colosseum. To the right is THE ARCH OF CONSTANTINE. The upper part is adapted from an arch of Trajan, erected (to commemorate his victories) over the Via Triumphalis, at the spot whore it joins the Via Sacra. The designs commence with the triumphal entrance of Trajan after the first Dacian war, then, se condly, commemorate his services in carrying the Appian way through the Pontine marshes, and in founding an asylum for or phan children; thirdly, his relations with Parthamasires, King of Armenia, and Parthamaspates, on whom he confers the Par thian crown, and, finally with the Dacian king Decebalus, whose hired assassins are brought before him. The whole con cludes with a representation of the emperor harangning 'his soldiers, and the customary sacrifice of swine, sheep and oxen. Corresponding to these reliefs, two medallions are introduced over each of the side arches, representing the private life of the emperor in simple and graceful compositions. The first repre sents his starting for the chase; the second represents a sa crifice to Silvanus, the patron of sylvan sports; the third dis plays the emperor on horseback at a bear hunt, and the fourth a thank-offering to the goddess of hunting. RAMBLE II. ' 75 In the continuation, on the side facing the Colosseum, we find a bear hunt; a sacrifice to Apollo; a group contemplating a dead lion, and, lastly, a consultation ol the oracle, repre sented somewhat enigmatically and possibly referring to Tra jan's wonderful escape during the earthquake of Antioch. Within the main arch, on each side, fragments of a magni ficent frieze are introduced, to which the two reliefs on the outside belong. The architect Rossini placed these fragments together in their original connection. According to this di sposition the whole forms one great battle-piece. On the right the defeat of the enemy is indicated by groups of prisoners and their conquerors ; whilst, on the left, Victory is seen placing the crown upon the head of the victorious emperor. This last episode is assigned to Constantine by the inscription " To the founder of peace, " and the central group of the battle-peace by a similar one — " To the deliverer of the city. " Before us now is THE COLOSSEUM " A NOBLE WRECK IK RUBIOUS PEHFECTIOX. " The vast amphitheatre erected in the centre of ancient Rome by Vespasian. " Here, was erected a venerable pile of an immense Amphi-f theatre, where the lakes of Nero were " Martial. Suetonius tells us it was " a lake like a sea, surrounded with buildings which had the appearance of a city. " It was commenced A. D. 72, two years after the destruction of Jerusalem; dedicated by Titus A. D. 80, and completed by Domitian. When perfect it consisted of four stories: — the lowest, of the Doric order 30 feet high; the second, Ionic, 38 feet high; the third, Corinthian, about the same height; and the fourth, also Corinthian, 44 feet high. The height of the outer wall, in the highest part, is 157 feet. The holes in the cornice with the corbies below them were to receive the masts that supported the velaria on the outside. The numerous holes in the stone were made in the middle ages for the purpose of extracting the iron clamps that held the stones together. The external circumference is 1,900 feet , the long diameter 658 feet, the shorter 558 feet; the arena is 298 ft X 177 in its widest part. Church tradition states that the architect of the Colosseum was Gaudentius a Christian martyr, who flourished in the first century. History informs us that for nearly 500 years the am phitheatre was a popular resort of the Romans, for whose amu sement gladiatorial exhibitions were held. The first grand spec- 76 RAMBLES IN ROME ta'cle was that of the dedication when 5000 wild beasts were slaughtered in the arena, the show extending over 100 days ; the area was flooded and the naval battle which Thucydides relates took place between the Corinthians and Corcyneans, was represented. The last performance was a bull-fight held at the expense of the Roman nobles in the year 1332. Many martyrs perished in the Colosseum during the persecutions of the early Christians, and among other St. Ignatius who was brought from Antioch to be devoured by wild beasts. Benedict XIV consecrated the building to the Christian martyrs A. D. 1570. In excavating the Basilica of St Clement the Rev. Father Mullooly found (1870) the remains of St Ignatius, and had them carried with great ceremony over the' scene , on the an niversary, of his Martyrdom. At the present day, there remains sufficient to indicated the destination of the building, though but a small portion of the immense outer shell, which originally both adorned and formed an impenetrable girdle round the whole , has been preserved. In the interior, only the constructions are in a state of partial preservation. Vast as the building is, its construction is easily understood; a simple segment of the whole serving to show how all the others succeed one another like the cells of a beehive. The upper part was originally of wood only and was burnt, having been set on fire by lightning. The two lower stories only, are of the time of the Flavian Emperors, the two upper stories were rebuilt and added in the second and third centu ries and only finished in the time of the Gordiani as is shown by the coins representing it. The Imperial entrance from the Esquiline side was between the arches Nos 38-9; which is without number. That on the Coelian side was opposite. Commodus constructed an underground passage from the area to the Pa latine, which has not yet been discovered, his so called passa ge (on the right in entering) being that by which the dead bodies were carried from the arena. Dion Cassius says " Upon the last day of the sports his helmet was taken off and fell through the door were the dead used to be carried out. " The area, basement, or ground-floor was flooded for the naval fights. Surrounding this were the dens and about 12 ft above was the moveable stage, sprinkled with sand for the combats and hence called the arena. A few feet above the arena was the Podium, or seat of the Emperor, Vestal Virgins, etc., pro tected from the arena by iron bars. Behind the Podium was a double portico which ran round the whole building. Fragments of the marble Chymeras, with long wings, that ornamented the seats of the Podium have been found. RAMBLE II. 77 The three successive tiers were called Cavea. Above these was a tier for the people ; above this one for the " Gods " ; thus making six in all. The amphitheatre seated 87,000 people and. there was standing room for 13,000 more. . The walls standing upon the area composed of tufa, traver tine and brick, old material reused, were built at a period long after the building was dedicated, when the naval fights being- abandoned there was no longer any occasion for a moveable stage or arena as before. They contained the machinery for the stage above and for the lifts or pegmita to send men or beasts from the area to the arena. Probably these are the walls thus alluded to by Dion Cassius " He (Commodus) di vided the theatre into four parts by two partitions that cut through diametrically , and by right angles , to the end that from the galleries that were round about, that he might with greater ease single out the beasts he. aimed at. " " The Emperor having employed himself in shooting from above, . . . descended afterwards to the bottom of the Theatre, and there slew some other private beasts, whereof some made toward him, others were brought to him, and others were shut up in dens. Returning after dinner he used the exercises of a Gladiator with a shield in his right hand and in his left a wooden sword. After him fought those whom he had chosen in the morning at the bottom of the Theatre. " Also in his life of Alexander Severus he says. " There was a kind of cloyster made in the Amphiteatre in the form of a ship to receive them (the wild beasts). On a sudden there- issued out bears , lions , ostridges, wild asses and foreign bulls. " On the other hand they may be the works of Lampidius prefect of Rome under Valentinian III 425-55 who repaired the steps and renewed the arena : or of Basilius who restored the ¦Podium and arena after its destruction by an earthquake in 486; this we learn from two inscriptions standing at the entrance. Half way on each side two large passages have been discove red choked up with mud , probably they were the acqueducts to bring the water for the naumachia from the reservoirs upon the Esquiline and Caelian hills respectfully. At the end op posite the present entrance a long passage has been opened , above the level of tho area floor, below this passage is the great drain, with the remains of the iron gratting to prevent large objects going down; this and the passage was closed by flood-gates on naval representations, which can be clearly seen in the- construction; into it runs a smaller drain that went completely round the area under the Podium. On the right and left of this passage, connected with it, but at a lower level, two dens have been cleared out 27 yards long by 5 wide, con- 78 RAMBLES IN ROME taining six holes in the floor, in the centre of square blocks of stone and these holes are facod with bronze, evidently the sockets into which metal posts were fixed to which the beasts were chained. On the fragments depicting scenes from the are na, the animals are shown with a long piece of rope or chain dangling from their necks, which seems to boar out my idea that they were attatched to posts fixed in these sockets , and that as they were wanted the chain or rope was cut and they were free to rush upon the arena. The corbels round the front of the line of arches under the podium are in pairs and between them, the masts were inser ted to support the awning on the inside, as the holes and corbels supported the masts on the outside, for I find on exa mination that those inside are exactly on a line with those outside, at the top of the building. These corbels are 29in deep and from them to the level of the area is 12 ft and to the present surface 9 ft; between each pair of corbels are chases 19 i/2 in wide, ending on a block of travertine, for the masts to rest on, the chases coming down 1 y2 yds below the cor bels, which are 15 ft apart. They probably helped to support the arena and show what the height of this wooden arena must have been and from its vast siz it must have had a framework and supports; the numerous holes on the area, in travertine, were for the heels of the supports; one of these, a square one, has remains of the decayed timber in it. In the central passage, resting on the area and extending as far as the excavations, is an ancient wooden framework in a decomposed state. Various suggestions have been made as to its use, some supposing it to be the framework and joists of the flooring covering the central passage; others, a sort of tramway for running the cages along, but till the whole space has been cleered out it is impossible to arrive at a correct esti mate of its use. Honorius A. D. 395 having abolished the gladiatorial com bats, probably the last display of wild beasts was that given by King Theodoricus at the begining of the sixth century. The soil cleared out, in the passage, dens, galleries, and area was found to be composed of mud deposited during a flood or flood by the Tiber, the composition of which may still be seen in parts of the long passage not yet cleared. The most remar kable of these floods which lasted some days; and did immense damage to the city were those of A. D. 555, 590, 725, 778, 1476, 1530, 1557, and 1598. We may presume, from the nature of the soil, that at some early date, probably A. D. 555, that one of those terrible floods reached the Colosseum, and on the waters retiring a great de- RAMBLE II 79 posit of mud was left covering the old area floor and filling up the various passages and galleries; and that the authori ties instead of clearing out this deposit added to it , to make 'a solid floor; and used the arena above, for after that date we have no record of its being used; with the exception of the bull fight. By applying to the custodian, the visitor can ascend to the top, where a most magnificent view is enjoyed; and where the construction of the upper galleries can be studied. It will be seen that the arches forming the tiers of seats have at some date been filled in with brick-work probably of the time of Ale xander Severus and the Gordiani. The water courses for keep ing the building cool in hot weather can also be traced. The highest wall of all, the inside brick casing of which is partly gone , is built of fragments evidently not originally intended for the purpose to which they are used , corresponding to a great extent with the construction of the walls upon the area. The Colosseum was for a long time used as a quarry, from which several of the palaces in Rome were reared- Should the visitor be fortunate enough to see the ruin under moon-light, or when it is illuminated with Bengal lights, then he will see it in its grandeur, for " it will not bear the bright ness of the day. " NOTES 80 RAMBLES IN ROME NOTES RAMBLE III. Forum of Trajan — Altar of Pallas, Minerva — Temple of Mars Ultor — Torre di Conti — House of Lucrezia Bor gia — St Pietro in Vincoli — Sette Sale — Church of St Gregorio. St Giovanni and Paolo — The Vivarium and Spoliarium — Reservoir of Nero — Arch of Dolabella — S. Maria della Navicella — The Temple of Claudius now St Stefano Rotondo — Porta Metronia — The Valley of Egeria — The Porta Capena — • Baths of Caracalla — S. Balbina — Tomb of the Scipios — The Columbria in the Vigna Codini — Arch of Drusus > — Porta St Sebastiano — Church of " Domine quo Vadis " — Catacombs of St Ga- lixtus — Temple of Ceres and Faustina — Villa of He- rodes Atticus — Church and Catacombs of St Sebastia no — Tomb and Temple of Romulus — Circus of Ma xentius — Tomb of Cecilia Metella — Tombs on the Via Appia — Via Appia Nova — The Aqueducts — Via La- tina — Porta Latina — The Painted Tombs — The Bar silica of St Stephen. FORUM OF TRAJAN. The most extensive architectural undertaking of this kind was carried into execution by Trajan , with the assistance of the famous architect, Apollodorus. Only the middle portion of the Basilica itself has been excavated. Of the two double rows 82 RAMBLES IN ROME of grey granite pillars which supported the bronze roof, for the most part only the stumps remain. All traces of the ma gnificent marble slabs forming the pavement have entirely dis appeared. Some portion of the yellow marble steps loading up to the templo were discovered a few years ago, and are now placed in a^niche of the modern wall of inclosure. A conside rable fragment of the cornice, sufficient to convey an adequate idea of the beauty and splendour of the edifice, is preserved in the same place. The stump of a pillar of yellow marble , di scovered ' at the same time , proves that the pillars erected before the side front were of this costly material: whilst in the interior, where greater strength was required to support the weight of the roof, granite , a stone of a harder species , was employed. Behind the Basilica, called, from the family name of Trajan, the Basilica Ulpia, rises the magnificent marble pillar, the pe destal of which concealed the chamber where the ashes of the emperor were deposited. The bas-reliefs on the basement are among the most beautiful decorations of ancient or modern times. They represent the arms taken from the Dacian against whom Trajan had made several campaigns. A series of bas- reliefs, representing the Dacian war. forms a spiral round the shaft of the pillar. Erected A. D. 114, it is 127 ft high inclu ding the base, and is surmounted by a statue of St Peter, 11 ft high , placed there by Sextus V in the 16 th century. By ascending to the top a fine view may be had. Going down the VIA ALESSANDRINA, which commen ces at the left hand comer of the above forum, we come to THE ALTAR OF PALLAS, MINERVA the prettiest bit of ruin in Rome, now used as a baker's shop. Consisting of Corinthian pillars, which support an architrave adorned with a frieze, and divided by ressaults, and an attic above. On the attic is the colossal figure of Minerva, represen ted in relief, as the patroness of labour; on Ihe architrave, the goddess appears engaged in instructing young girls in various female occupations , and punishing the insolence of Arachne , who had ventured to compete with her in the labours of the loom. It stood in tho FORUM TRANSITORIUM, commenced by Domitian, finished by Nerva , called Transito- rium becaused it formed a thoroughfare, to the other forums. RAMBLE III. 83 It was adorned with statues by Alexander Severus. Pope Paul V destroyed considerable remains to build the fountain on the Janaculum. Leaving this ruin on our right, we proceed up the VIA CROCE, BIANCA, and taking the first turnina on the left, VIA DI TORRE DI GRILLO brings us to the ARCO DEI PANTANI, passing through which we come upon the TEMPLE OF MARS ULTOR, in the Forum of Augustus. The temple which he had vowed to Mars, the Avenger, at the battle of Philippi, served as the central point. " Tne reason of his building a new Forum was the vast increase in tho population, and the number of causes to be tried in the courts, for which, the two already existing not affording sufficient space, it was thought necessary to have a third. He placed statues of tho great Roman generals in both the porticos of his Forum. In building his forum, he restricted himself in the site, not presuming to compel the owners of the neighbouring houses to give up their property " Suetonius. It was restored by the Emperor Hadrkn. Three beautiful pillars, part of the wall of the cella, and of the roof of the vestibule, still exist near the Arco de'Pantani. They stand upon a substruction only excavated a few years ago, , and present one of the finest specimens extant of a temple, all the essential parts of which have been preserved. The gigantic walls of rectangular blocks, into which the arch already men tioned was introduced for the purpose of restoring the commu nication with the part of the city situated upon the hills, are most imposing. " This was part of the second wall of Rome that enclosed the Palatine hill and the hill of Saturn (afterwards called the Capitoline hill), in one city as recorded by Diony sius. The construction is of the time of the early kings, it was merely used on the eastern side of the Forum of Augustus be cause it stood there. 'This ancient wall in the part where it is perfect is 50 feet high by 12 thick. The best place to see it is at the back of the houses at the south end of it the en trance being through the Caffe di Pallade. There is a wall of travertine of the time of Augustus inserted into the older wall at a right angle. This wall of the Empire is one third the height and of the same thickness as the wall of the kings. It formed the division between the Forum of Augustus and the Forum Transitorium of Nerva. The foss-way to which the arch belonged has been filled up about ten feet, and the lower part of the arch is buried in that manner. " Mr J H. Parker, C. B. 84 RAMBLES IN ROME It owes its mediaeval name to the marshes caused by the water collecting in this neighbourhood. Retracing our steps into the Via Madonna dei Monti* i Carriages must proceed straight on down the Via di Torre % Conti and turn up the first street to the left. The scene of Tullia's impiety, when she caused her chariot wheel to pass over tho body of 'her murdered Father, as she ascended to his house on the Esquiline. THE TORRE DI CONTI is a massive tower of the middle ages built as a fortress, and supposed to stand on the site of the Temple of the Earth " Lenaeus the Grammarian opened a school, in the Carinae, near the Temple of the Earth, where stood the house of the Pom- pey's. " " The house of Cassius was demolished , and to this day the place remains void, expcept that part on which they afterwards built the Temple of the Earth, which stands in the street leading to the Carinae. " Dion Cassius.) *and going up that street, we come to some old steps , on our right, at the top of which is the HOUSE OF LUGREZIA BORGIA. Here Caesar Borgia, Francesco Duke of Gandia, and Lucre- zia, supped with their mother Vanozza, upon the evening that Caesar assassinated the duke and had his body thrown into the Tiber — where it was afterwards found by a fisherman, pierced with nine wounds. The dark archway leads to St PETER IN VINCOLI. It has three aisles with twenty Doric columns of Greek mar ble, and two of granite , which support the middle arch. On the first altar to the right, there is St. Augustin, by Guercino; on the right is the famous statue of MOSES BY MICHAEL ANGELO, rendered hideous by two horns sticking out from the forehead. Although we read that Moses was a horny man, it does not follow that he had horns, but that his flesh was hard like horn. The St Margherita in the following chapel is by Guercino; the tribune of the high altar was painted by I. Coppi. The last altar but one, of the other aisle, has a St. Sebastian, a mosaic of the seventh century. In the sacristy there are the Liberation of St Peter by Domenichino ; a Holy Family and Faith of the school of G. Romano. In a small closet, with or- RAMBLE III. 85 naments in bronze by Pollaiolo , are preserved the chains of bt Peter. * Guido Reni's Hope was in this church, but it has been replaced by a copy, the original having been sold to an Irish gentleman. Leaving the church, and taking a lane on the right, VIA DE SETTE SALE, some little way down, where another lane branches off, applying at the gate of the vineyard n. 10 on the right of the lane we can visit THE SETTE SALE, which was a reservoir for the Baths of Titus, it consists of nine parallel chambers communicating with each other by arches placed obliquely, to prevent the pressure of the water on the walls. Between this and Sta Maria Maggiore was found, the Laocoon now in the Vatican, by Felix de Freddis as we are informed by the inscription on his tomb in the church of Ara Coeli. It was found in 1506 in the same niche as where Pliny tells us it was admired in his time. Proceeding down the lane VIA POLVERIERA to the left of St Peter in Vincoli, we come out by the Colosseum ; passing by which, and under the arch of Constantine, and up the ancient VIA TRIUMPHALIS , on our left is the' CHURCH OF S. GREGORIO Whence Cardinal Manning takes his title. Founded on the site of the house of Gregory the Great in the 7th century. Its interior is embellished with 16 Granite columns. The painting above the altar is by Sacchi and the predella beneath, by Luca Signorelli. In a small side chapel on the right is an ancient marble chair, and in a glass case numerous relics of various saints. Crossing the atrium , in which is a monument to Sir Edward Carne, envoy from Henry VIII, we come to the three, detatched chapels of Sta Silvia, which contains a beautiful fresco, of The Father, with angels playing on instruments, by Guido Reni. It is built on the site of the House of St Gregory, remains of which can be seen behind the chapel. St Andrew, containing the rival frescoes of Guido Reni and Domenichino, St Andrew adorning the cross on his way to execution, and the Flagellation. * We believe tliese have been removed to the Vatican. 86 RAMBLES IN SOME St Barbara, containing the marble table on which St Gre gory feasted every morning 12 poor pilgrims; on one occarsion an angel is said to have honoured them with his presence. The Statue of the saint was begun by Michel Angelo and fi nished by his pulpil Niccolo Cordieri. Between the Church and the chapels is a massive piece of tufa wall, supposed to have been part of the fortifications of the Ccelian hill when it was a separate fortress. The hill on the left, the ancient Clivus Scauri , by the Grove, leads to the CHURCH OF SS GIOVANNI E PAOLO Erected in tho 4th century on the site of the martyrdom of the above saints, by Pammachns the friend of St Jerome. They- were officers of Coustantine's household and were put to death by Julian. Its Mediaeval portico is formed by eight marble and granite pillars. Its aisles are formed by 16 ancient co lumns, the pavement is of opus Alexandrinum, the stone sur rounded by a railing is said to be that on which the martyrs suffered death. To the left of the church and beneath the adjoining Pas- sionist Convent {ring at the door on the right) are the re mains of some solid unfinished stone arches, supposed to be the VIVARIUM or menagerie for the Colosseum. The arches have been la terally closed, leaving small apertures of communication ; it consists of eight immense arches two stories high , formed from blocks of travertine ; the substructions occupy a large extent of the convent gardens. A massive portion supports the elegant Mediaeval campanili of the 13th century, one of the best preserved in Rome. Behind this are some subterra nean chambers hewn out of the tufa ; supposed to be the. SPOLIARIUM a prison for condemned Gladiators. The younger Pliny says " it was a cruel receptacle for those adjudged worthy of tor ture. " Tae gardens of the convent are built upon the top of the RESERVOIR OF NERO. Suetonius tells us " he made a reservoir like unto a sea "; which no doubt afterwards was used to supply the Colosseum RAMBLE III. 87 with water for the naval combats. Proceeding up the lane we come to the ARCH OF DOLABELLA AND SILANUS. Built of travertine erected A. D. 10, by the above consuls as the inscription informs us. It was used by Nero to support his aqueduct to the Palatine. Beyond is an arch of marble built into a garden wall, containing a mosaic of our Saviour and on each side a slave, it formed part of the convent of La Trinita attatched to the church of S. Tomasso in Formis of which all that remains is one of the arched portals of the 13th century bearing the names of Jacopo Cosmatis and his son Cosimo. In the piazza is a small marble ship placed here by Leo X being a copy of an ancient one that stood here. The church S MARIA DELLA NAVICELLA or S.Maria in Dominica only open on the second Sunday in. Lent; restored by Leo X from designs by Raphael, the Doric poftico is by Michel Angelo. It has 18 fine columns of grey granite. The mosaics in the tribune are of the 9th century. The frieze over the windows of the nave are by Giulio Romano and Pierino. In the via del Vaga, opposite, is the remarkable church of S. STEFANO ROTONDO. Supposed to be formed from the remains of the TEMPLE OF CLAUDIUS. Suetonius tell us that Vespasian erected the temple " of Claudius on the Ccelian mount , which had been begun by Agrippina, but almost entirely demolished by Nero. " The church is open all day on the 26th of December being the saint's day. On other days, ring the bell at the door on the right. It is 133 ft in diameter. The outer circle consists of 36 columus, and the inner of 20. In the centre two Co rinthian columus support a cross wall. The tabernacle contains the. relics of of St Stephen. The frescoes by Pomarancio on the walls representing martyrdoms are simply disgusting. In the Vestibule is an ancient episcopal chair, from which St Gre gory read his 4th homily. 88 RAMBLES IN ROME N. B. Some authorities place the Temple of Claudius on the site which was afterwards occupied -by the Vivarium and Spo liarium : and the MACELLUM GRANDE or dead meat mar ket erected by Nero they turn into the Church of S. Stefano. We have seen that Suetonius tells us, Vespasian rebuilt the Temple of Claudius, so that if he built the Spoliarium and Vivarium they could not have been built on the site of the Temple, and Domitian who is supposed to have built them would hardly have destroyed the rebuilt Temple for that pur pose. From, the piazza di Navicella a steep descent brings us to the PORTA METRONIA in the walls of Aurelian, under which enters the Aqua Crabra, now the Marrana. An inscription informs us that it was repair ed in 1157. We are now in the Valley under the Coelian, the poetical, , VALLEY OF EGERIA, whence flowed the perennial fountain by whose waters Numa caught inspiration from the lips of his loveable nymph. Juve nal describes the spot in his description of tho journey of Um- bricius and himself " This is the place where Numa consulted his nocturnal friend the nymph : now the grove of the sacred font; is occupied by the remains of Jews. In the Valley of Egeria we descended into caves unlike the true. " They strolled from the gate whilst the waggon was loading, at length Umbricius says " the sun is getting low , — I must depart — for long ago the muleteer gave me a'hint by cracking his whip. " " Numa was commanded by the nymph Egeria to consecrate that place, and the fields about it to the Muses, where he had often entertained a free intercourse and communication with them ; and that the fountain which watered that field should be made sacred and hallowed for the use of the Vestal Vir gins, who were to wash and clean the Penetralia of their sanctuary with those holy waters. " Plutarch. Livy thus describes it. " There was a grove, in the midst of which from a dark cavern gushed a fountain of flowing water, whither often, because without witness, Numa went to have an interview with the Goddess, and which grove he con secrated to the Muses, that their councils might be held there with Egeria. " The fountain may still be seen under the Cce- RAMBLE III. 89 lian, there is a bath house of the middle ages built over it. It is in the grounds of the villa of Baron Hoffman to whom application must be made to visit it. ¦ The lane now leads us into the Via Porta San Sebastiano, turning to the right, at a short distance, the second gate way leads into a vineyard under the Gardener's house is the site of the PORTA CAPENA in the wall of Servius Tullius. This site was discovered by Mr. J. H. Parker in 1868 but the excavations have been filled in. The remains consist of the sill of the Gate with frag ments of the jambs, and the pavement of the Via Appia with the raised footpaths on each side of it; one of the flanking towers of the gate is in the gardener's cottage. Opposite the gateway a low wall encloses a portion of the agger of Servius Tullius, excavated by Mr. Parker. We now follow the Via Porta San Sebastiano the an cient Appian way constructed by Appius Claudius. Censor B. C. 310 and repaired by Trajan A. D. 104. Crossing the Marrana, we take the first turning on the Right, this lane leads to the BATHS OF CARACALLA, {Admission one lira, Sunday free) a favourite spot of Shelley's, " among the flowery glades and thickets of odoriferous blossoming trees, which are extended in ever winding labyrinths upon its immense platforms and dizzy arches suspended in the air. " So the poet wrote of this • spot, but now it is all changed; the hand of the explorer has ruthlessly pulled up the trees, and scraped the wild flowers and weeds from the ruined walls, exposing beautiful mosaic pavements, it is true, but which hardly repay for the loss of nature's verdure. The magnificent Thermae of Caracalla display in the clearest and most complete manner the skeleton of an edifice of this kind; these glorious ruins standing, as it were, intact before us. They were begun by Caracalla in the year 212. enlarged by Holiogabalus, and completed by Alexander Severus, their area being 140,000 square yards. As many as 1600 persons could, it is said, bathe in them at the same time. The baths , pro perly so called, were 620 feet in length and 375 in width,, and they were surrounded by pleasure gardens , porticos , a stadium, etc. The reservoir was supplied by the Antonine Aqueduct which carried the water from the Claudian over the Palaestra or Stadium 9OPi Ephebium Dressing Room Peristylium a place enclosed round with pillars and a portico in which were performed the athletic sports. Retiring rooms Reservoir Women's Bath Dressing Room Ephebium llynocauslon Hypocauslon Hot Bath Hot Bath Reservoir Women's Bath WCDB Tepidarium c+- &D oP to Hot anointing ¦J= Bath Rooms as or warm bath dressing rooms sliampoong Rooms ra a 3 B w CO Hot Bath anointing looms Frigid arium or cold swimming bath. dressing rooms liainpooing Rooms FM < rJ hi o rj O cc W H -0 pq Entrance Retiring rooms * Original entrances. RAMBLE III. 91 furchT7-of 5rusus- The PririeiPal entrance to the Baths was from the Via IS ova, one of the favourite promenades of the ancient Romans; made by Caracalla. Among the works of art disco vered in the Thermae may be mentioned the Farnese Hercules, the Colossal Flora, the Farnese bull, the Atreus and Thye- stes, the Two Gladiators, and the Venus Callipyge. The bronzes, cameos, bas-reliefs, medals, etc., found in the Thermae are too numerous to mention. The urns in green basalt now in the Vatican Museum, and the granite basins of the Piazza Far nese formerly belonged to the Baths of Caracalla. The Baths remained entire, both as regards their architecture and their internal decoration, until the middle of the 6th century when the acqueducts were destroyed by Vitiges. The^ portion of this series of main chambers, with which all the others are connected like the limbs of an organic body, was a rotunda. Tho open space at the foot of the Aventine was intended for a Palaestra. The games held in it- could be viewed from the tiers of seats, which rose, as in a theatre , - above the reservoir, still in existence, on the declivity of the hill. From this the building was supplied with water, con veyed to the different points by means of an aqueduct. In order to attain a correct idea of the ground plan, we must proceed to the space in the centre, inclosed on the side towards the road by a high wall furnished with window-niches for the reception of statues. This was the great swimming bath, as is proved by the excavations which have revealed the deep level of' the original floor. Beyond this are small rooms where the bathers were oiled and shampood. Beyond these the Grand Peristylium, enclosed round with pillars and a portico in which were performed the Athletic exercises, adjoining were the women's baths and the Ephebium or the hall where the youth were taught their exercises. Returning through the Hemicyclia we enter the Pinacotheca, or fine art gallery; this brings us to the Tepidarium, or warm bath, with four hot baths, Caldarium, at the corners, from which the Laconicum or Su datorium or sweating room was entered. This was (jailed the Cella Solearis. The roof was supported by bars of brass interwoven like the straps of a sandal. Vitruvius tells us that the Laconicum ought to be circular with a circular window in the centre of the dome with a shutter to be opened or shut thus controling the atmosphere as required. The Solearis was considered to be a great architectural feat and that it was unimitable. Of this grand rotunda only two piers are left but sufficient to give an idea of its size. It was to the Baths of Caracalla what the Pantheon was to the Baths of Agrippa , that is the only perfect part of those baths left, this is the only part of these baths wanting. 92 RAMBLES IN RQME The mosaics of the pavement have sunk down , as it were in the form of troughs, in consequence of the piers on which the arches rested, as on a sort of grating, having been brok en when the latter fell in; and not being properly shored up when excavated. The remainder of the building not yet excavated corresponds with the parts we have described. Some of the beautiful mosaic pavements may be seen in the Lateran and Borghese Villa Palaces. In the Vineyard of Signor Brocard, (no 13) are the remains of the Portico of Heliogabalus; under which were bath cham bers. In the Vigna Guidi (no 19) are the remains of the Pri vate House of the Emperor Hadrian, destroyed when the baths were built. Under the Baths is a series of large chambers used in hot weather, (Entrance from the back,) and formerly part of the Palace. Above the baths on an eminence of the Aventine, is' the church of Sta BALBINA supposed to date from the 6th century there is nothing of in terest in the church itself; but a fine prospect is enjoyed, of the surrounding district, from the Tower. The convent and building has been turned into a penitentiary and barracks. Resuming our ramble along the main road, are THREE CHURCHES. SS Nereo e Achilleo, founded by Loo III 795-816, contains an enclosed choir with reading desks. The tribune mosaic is of his time and represents the Transfiguration and Annuncia tion. The episcopal chair is that from which St Gregory read his 28th Homily. Nearly opposite is the church of S. Sisto belonging to the Irish Dominican friars of St Cle ment, beyond on the right is San Cesareo containing a raised presbytery surrounded by a marble screen, a marble pulpit and an ancient episcopal chair. The Via Latina branches out to the left, the gate is now closed, seepage 102, adjoining which is the Columbaria Cam- pana. On the left before reaching the gate, in the vineyard Sassi, is the TOMB OF THE SCIPIOS. The vaults, hewn in the tufa; are all that now remain, with the traces of a cornice over the entrance arch, and a stump RAMBLE III. 93 of a Doric column. The tomb was discovered in 1780, and the bones of the consul, found in good preservation, wore car ried to Padua, where they were interred by Senator Quirini. Six sarcophagi were found and several recesses for more bo dies ; the original inscriptions were removed to the Vatican and placed in the Vestibule of the Belvedere. Just beyond in the Vigna Codini are three. COLUMBRIA. The first dates from Augustus to Nero. The second freed- men of Pompey and Tiberius. The third of the time of Agustus and Claudius. Containing cinerary urns chiefly of persons attatched to the family of the Caesars. The walls are covered with frescoes and arabesques, representing birds and animals and in another the portrait and slab with inscription to a dog belonging to Syno- ris Glauconia a Roman lady. These Columbria are numerous on the great highways of Rome, and are so called from the rows of little niches, like doves nests which contain the urns, in which the ashes were placed, and were generally appropria ted to the middle class, freedmen, and servants of great fa milies. THE ARCH OF DRUSUS next draws our attention. The aqueduct which supplied the Thermae of Caracalla , crossed the road a few steps before the Aurelian gate of the city, now called the Porta St. Sebastiano , where an arch of travertine, adorned with white marble and pillars of various colours, still standing, was employed to convey the aqueduct over the road. The arch itself is evidently much older than the aqueduct, and has, consequently, been'pronouncod by an tiquaries to be the triumphal arch awarded to Drusus _ by a decree of the senate, and said to have been erected to him on the Appian Way. It was supported by four columns of Afri can marble, relieved by four niches and an attic above a small ' pediment; the whole was surmounted by an equestrian statue between two trophies. Passing under which we come to THE PORTA ST. SEBASTIANO, opening on the great highway of ancient Rome, the VIA APPIA. This gate is the finest in the Aurelian walls, and, in its splen- 94 RAMBLES IN ROME did decorations, regard has evidently been paid to the road over which it was built. All the rectangular stones of the substruction are of white marble. It is curious, too, that con siderable projections have been left on most of the stones on the right side, whilst the others present a smoothly hewn sur face. A fresco painting of the Madonna said to be of the sixth century, probably the work of a Greek soldier under Belisarius (as the character of the painting is Byzantine), remains in the corridor of Aurelian near this Gate. It was over the head of the sentinels in the path and near the third tower on the right side of the gate. The existence of this Painting was not known until it was discovered accidentally by Mr. J. H. Parker C. B. in 1870. The gate house is said to" have, been built in the time of Ring Theodoiic out of the ruins of the temple of Mars, which stood outside the gate. THE APPIAN WAY. " When thou hast gone out of the Capena gate, and behol- dest the sepulchres of Calatinus, of the Scipios, of the Servilli and the Metelli, canst thou deem the buried inmates wret ched. " Cicero. , ' For tl long number of years the present Porta San Sebastiano was considered to be the Porta Capena. this error was recati- fied after the stone which marked the first mile was found (1584) in the Vigna Naro outside the present gate. From it one mile was measured backwards and the result was the discovery of the Porta Capena (page 89). The first object of interest after passing through the gate, on the left, are the remains of the SEPTIZONIA OF GETA, the. murdered brother of Caracalla, the tomb now only shows a hugh mass of concrete. On the right behind the osteria is the TOMB OF PRISCILLA. Statius sung of the conjugal love of Abascantus who inte- rod his wife Priscilla, before the city where the Appian Way branches out, and where Cybele haunts the stream of the Almo. To the mouth of the Almo the priests of Cybele brought the statue of the goddess once a year and washed it in the waters, together with the sacred utensils used in her worship. , RAMBLE III. 95 The tower is Medieaval showing it to have been turned into a Fortress. On the left is the church " DOMINE QUO VADIS, " so called from the legend that St, Peter, when escaping from Rome, was met by our Saviour. Peter asked of him, " Domine quo vadis ? " to which Jesus replied, " Venio iterum crucifigi," which caused the apostle to return to his doom. They show on a small piece of marble two foot-prints, wh.ch they say is where the Lord stood. Proceeding on our ramble we enter, on the right, a vineyard, under which are the CATACOMBS OF ST. CALIXTUS. The catacombs were anciently the quarries made by the Ro mans underground for the purpose of extracting the Tufa stone, for building material. It has long been handed down , by prie stly tradition, that these subterranean passages served as a refuge for the first Christians when persecuted by the empe rors ; but some antiquarians of the present day hold that nei ther did the Christians dig them, as asserted, nor did they aide or dwell in them, as they couid have no occasion for so doing, these catacombs being as well known in that age as in this. They are visited by tourists in the light of Christian relics. The guide will be found at the door, who will con duct and explain the catacombs to the yisitor, finding lights; fee one franc. On the other hand , supposed to have Deen excavated by the early Christians, who used them for prayer and for burial, it is estimated that 200,000 of the then new sect were buried here, including fourteen popes. The catacomb consists of passages of long narrow galleries cut with regularity, so that the roof and floor are at right an gles with the sides, runing quite straight but crossed by others, and these again by others , forming a complete labyrinth of subterranean corridors, the sides are honeycombed with graves. These corridors, themselves the cemetery, lead into different chambers and churches. Rome is surrounded by about 60 of these catacombs, taking their name from the saint that repos ed there. . , . ,.,-,, t> The entrance is near the ancient church m which Pope Ua- masus, who died A. D, 384 was buried. Descending the steps we enter the vestibule, the walls of which are covered with the names of pilgrims ; a narrow gallery conducts us to the 96 RAMBLES IN ROME Chapel of The popes, Lucius A. D. 232. Anterus A. D. 235. Fabianus A. D. 236. Eutychianus A. D. 275. Following the names of Lucius and Fabianus are the words Epis, Martyr. Urbanus A. D. 223 and Sixtus A. D. 258 were both buried here, in front of the grave of the latter is the inscription put up by Damasus engraved in beautiful characters; Inscription of Pope Damasus in the chapel of the Popes. Here, if you would Know, lie heaped together a mumber of the holy These honoured sepulcheres inclose the bodies of the saints Their lofty souls the palace of heaven has received. Here lie the companions of Xystus, who bear away the trophies from the enemy; Here a tribe of the elders which guards the altars of Christ; Here is buried the priest who lived long in peace *; Here the holy confessors who came from Greece; ** Here lie youths and boys, old men and their chaste descendants, Who kept their virginity undefiled. Here I. Damasus wished to have my limbs, But feared to disturbe the holy ashes of the saints. In front of this was the Altar. Prom here a gallery leads us to the Crypt of St. Cecilia, where her body was placed after martyrdom by pope Urban A. D. 220; and removed in 820 by Paschal I (see Ramble 4). The body was found " fresh and perfect as when it was first laid in the tomb, and clad in rich garments mix ed with blood rolled up at her feet. " On the wall is a fre sco of St Cecilia attired in a dress of Byzantine character, be low are two others, on the right, Christ with a nimbus; on the left, Urban in full pontifical dress; they are of the 7th cen tury. After traversing some passages we enter the Cubicula of a family; on the walls are roughly executed frescoes of 'the 7 desciples dining with our Lord near the sea of Tiberias, the story of Jonah and the large fish, Moses striking the rock, the woman at the well of Symaria, the paralytic man walking with his bed , peacocks , emblems of immortality, two Fossori or grave diggers. In another sepulchre have been found two sarcophagi containing remains the tops are now covered with glass. Opening out of this is another- in which was found a sarcophagus, 4th century, representing, Lazarus being raised irom the dead, The multiplication of the bread and fishes, Da- * St. Melchiades ** Paulina, Neo^ Marca ec. RAMBLE III. 97 jiiel in the lions den; near this, is a crypt containing an inscrip tion having reference to the heresy of Heraclus on account of which Eusebhrs became a voluntary exile , the name of the person who engraved it, Furius Dyonisius Filocalus, and of Pope Damasus, are cut in two vertical lines down the sides. It had served previously for an inscription to Caracalla made by M. Asinius Sabinianus. It was a very usual thing for the early Christians to reuse the marble of other times , on account of its cheapness, they being mostly poor. Copy of inscription of Damasus on an inscription to Caracalla. " Heraclius forbade the lapsed to grieve for their sins, Eusebius taught those unhappy ones to weep for their crimes. the people were rent into parties, and with increasing fury began sedition, slaughter. fighting, discord and strife. straightway both were banished by the cruelty of the tyrant, although the tope was preserving the bonds OF PEACE INVIOLATE. He BORE HIS EXILE WITH JOY, LOOKING TO THE LORD AS HIS JUDGE, AND ON THE SHORE OF SlCILY CAVE UP THE WORLD AND HIS LIFE " The Chapel of St Cornelius, was originally distinct from these catecombs. His tomb in marked Cornelius Martyr. Ep. on the side wall fresco of Cornelius and Cyprian ; in front is a pillar on which stood the lamp burning before the shrine Inscriptions near the grave of Pope Cornelius. Behold ! a way down has been constructed, and the darkness dispelled; you see the monuments of Cornelius, and his sacred tomb. This work the zeal of damasus has accomplished, sick as he is, in order that the approach might be better, and the aid of the saints might be made convenient for the people; and th it, if you will pour forth your prayers from a pure heart, damasus may rise up better in healh, though it has not been love of life, but care for work, that has kept him here below- AT THE TIME WHEN THE SWORD PIERCED THE HE\RT OF OUR MOTHER I ITS RULER BURIEO HERE, WAS TEACHING THE THINGS OF HEAVEN. SUDDENLY THEY CAME, THEY SEIZED ME SEATED AS I WAS; — THE SOLDIERS BEING SENT IN, THE PEOPLE GAVE THEIR NECKS. SOON THE OLD MAN SAW WHO WAS NYILL- 1NG TO BEAR AWAY THE PALM FROM HIMSELF, AND WAS THE FIRST TO OF FER HIMSELF AND HIS OWN HEAD, FEARING LEST THE BLOW SHOULD FALL UPON ANYONE ELSE. CHRIST, WHO AWARDS THE REWARDS OF LIFE, RECOGNISES THE MERIT OF THE PASTOR, HE HIMSELF IS PRESERVING THE NUMBER OF HIS FLOGK. ' Beyond are two crypts with a fresco of the good Shepherd in. good preservation, on the ceiling; and other christian em- 98 RAMBLES IN ROME blems. We reenter daylight by means, of the original stairs of an early construction. A little lower down the road on- the left are the Jewish Catacombs , which , perhaps more than any other , illustrate that these catacombs were formerly quarries. * A little further on we turn down a rough road on the left, leading to what has been called the " antiquaries' despair " the ' TEMPLE OF CERES AND FAUSTINA The site of which is now occupied by the deserted CHURCH OF St. URBANO. It was built of brick, and the vestibule, is supported by marble corinthian pillars. Piranesi saw the name of Faustina stamped upon one of the bricks. The basin in the vestibule, containing the holy water, was found near here, and is an altar consecrated to Bacchus. The inscription says that it was made under the priesthood of Apronianus. Tradition says St Urban in 222-30 had an oratory here under the present al tar; and that Urban VIII 1633, turned it into a church, the paintings and iron bars are of that date. The plan of the building is rectangular and it is of the time of Antoninus Pius. At the foot of this hill is the valley of the Almo or Caf- farella, in which is the mossey entrance to a grotto, for a long time called the Grotto of Egeria, owing to the misapprehen sion of the site of the Porta Capena. It is now known to have been a Nymphaeum in the VILLA OF HERODES ATTICUS. This was proved from finding two pedestals on which are two Greek inscriptions, copies of which have been placed on the top of the hill, close by the artificial ruin in the Villa Borghese, the originals are in the Louvre. This formed part of the dowery of Atticus, wife Anuia Regilla, which we learn from a column, No 10 m the second hall of Inscriptions in the Capitol Museum, and which afterwards marked the 8th mile on one of the roads. After Regilla's death he consecrated a statue to Regilla in the above temple, this is recorded in the above inscriptions which speak of her as " The light of the house the lady of the land. " The wall at the back of this vaulted chamber was primarily intended to support the declivity of the hill at the foot of which this elegant little building stands. The niches in the walls were meant for the reception of statues. One of these only , a re cumbent figure of a river god, has, been preserved. It is sup- RAMBLE III. 99 posed to be a personification of the Almo, which flows past the spot. Several channels for pipes, concealed in the wall, justify the supposition that the water poured forth in numerous streams The romantic appearance of this spot has been greatly changed by the stream being turned into an aqueduct, in the summer of 1873. * Visitors whose time is limited should continue along the Appian way as far as the Tomb of Cecilia Metella , and then retrace their steps to this road, which leads into the Via Appia Nova (page 102) and so return to Rome. Regaining the Via Appia, at a short distance on the right, is the CHURCH OF St. SEBASTIANO founded by Constantine, and rebuilt in 1611 from the design of Ponzio. The front and portico of six granite columns were designed by Vasanzio. Below the church are the CATACOMBS, open free, but not of much interest. Opposite the church are the extensive remains of the TOMB OF ROMULUS SON OF MAXENTIUS. In front of the Circus of Maxentius, on the Via Appia, stands a square portico, of which only the high enclosure walls remain. These, however, are in a state of excellent preservation. At the back of the mordern premises, in the middle of this enclosure, are the remains of a considerable circular tomb, in front of which was a colonnade facing the Via Appia. In all probability this is the identical building erected by Maxentius in honour of his son Romulus, who died in the year 300. Re presentations of this temple are to be met with on coins. At the side is the CIRCUS OF MAXENTIUS erected A. D. 310 , the inclosure walls of which have been preserved almost entire. These display the interesting pheno menon of pots of earthenware built into them, which not merely expedited the progress of the work , but allowed of its being more easily repaired than was possible in any other mode of construction. Its length was 1,574 feet, and 269 feet in breadth; 18,000 spectators could be accommodated in its vast walls. In 1825 three inscriptions were found proving this to be the Circus consecrated to Romulus , son of Maxentius. Two towers flank 100 RAMBLES IN ROME the entrance supposed to have been the seats for the judges- It is the most perfect specimen of a Roman circus remaining. On the top of the hill is the " stern round fortress of other days, " known as THE TOMB OF CECILIA METELLA the wife of the rich Crassus, daughter of Quintus Caecilius Metellus. It consists of a circular tower, seventy feet in dia meter, resting on a quadrangular basement made chiefly of lava and brick cemented together by lime and Pozzolana, and strengthened by key stones of travertine. This ruin , so long respected as a tomb, was converted into a fortress by Boniface the 8th and used as such by the Gaetani , his near relations. It now belongs to Archaeology. Learned men have made it one of their most sacred resting places and it is a favourite resort of tourists and artists. The inscription on the side facing the road runs as follows: " Caeciliae — Q. Cretici. F. — Metellae. Crassi. " There are bas-reliefs, well preserved; one representing a trophy of victory, another representing a slave or a prisoner, Built about a century before our era. It is mentioned by Cicero, and was therefore standing in his time. The construction is very remarkable , on account of the enormous thickness 'of the walls, which are of concrete faced with travertine, and lined with brick in the interior. Probably of a later date. The house of Crassus is recorded to have been ornamented with marble, and was the first private house in Rome in which marble was used. The tomb was therefore probably built before the house was built or rebuilt. The enormous massiveness of the structure indicates a rude and semi-barbarous period. The inner chamber of the ruin is fifteen feet in diameter and was at one time supposed to contain great treasures both of art and coinage. But the Sarcophagus of white marble , now in the court of the Farnesi Palace, and believed to have been discovered in or near the Tomb of Cecilia Metella, is the only treasure it has produced: " What was this tower of strength? Within its cave What treasure lay so lock'tl, so hid? — A woman's grave. " Opposite are the ruins of a gothic church. S. NICHOLAS OF BARI built by the Gaetani, considerable remains of their fortress exists showing the strength of their hold , by which means they leveied " Black mail " on the passers by. RAMBLE III. 101 From this point the Via Appia continues in a straight line to Albano, considerable remains of tombs exist on each side of the way; connected with which are many anecdotes and trage dies. Along the Via Appia a most magnificent prospect of the Campagna is enjoyed, with its ruined tombs and aqueducts , the Sabine and Alban hills in the distance. The Author of these Rambles will be pleased to accom pany Visitors tvho may wish to enjoy this delightful ex cursion. TOMBS ON THE VIA APPIA. Servilius Quartus; at the 4th mile left hand side: Seneca; just beyond. Villa of Seneca ; behind. Tomb of Granius; on the left. Temple of Jupiter; beyond, on the left. Inscrip tion in Verse to tho sons of Sextus Pompeius; on the left. Plinius Eutychus; on the right. Caius Licinius; just be yond. Doric Tomb, unknown; adjoining. Flarus Fascus; fur ther on tho right. Scondi and Scondini ; beyond. Usia Pri ma; further on the right. Sextus Pompeius Justus; beyond. Republican Tomb, unknown; adjoining. Tumuli of the Horatii and Curiatii; on the right. Villa of the Quintilii ; opposite. Tomb of the Metelli ; on the left. Messalla Corvinus Cotta , beyond;, called Casale Rotondo. There is a primate road here into the Via Appia Nova, if the Man at the Tomb is surley and will not let you pass; half a franc will pave the way. Torre di Selce ; on the left, upon an unknown circular tomb Just beyond a public road leads into the Via Appia Nova by which we will return, beyond are the. Area of Silvanus ; at the 8th mile. Temple of Hercules; beyond. Villa of Bassus; behind. Tomb of Veranius ; on the left. Tomb of Gallienus and Alexander Severus; 9th mile. The Three Taverns. The railway crosses at the 11th mile; and carriages cannot pass, hit can turn into the Via Appia Nova. Tomb of Pompey the Great at the 14th mile entering Albano. APPII FORUM and THE THREE TAVERNS " When the Brethren heard of us, they came to meet us as far as Appii Forum and the Three Taverns. " Many visitors ask us where these meeting places where. The site of tres tabernce three shops or taverns we may look for between the 8th and 9th mile on the Via Appia, just beyond the Temple of Hercules built by Domitian. This has been handed down to us by tradition and the Campagna shepherds point to 102 RAMBLES IN ROME a ruin half buried iu the soil as the Tres Tabernae. It was a mutatio or halting place at the Roman station ad Nonum, or Tres Tabernae, it was here that the Emperor Alexander Se verus was buried. There seems to have been several places so named in the Roman Empire. . Fokum Aipii was a town of the Volsci beyond Aricia. It is mentioned by Horace in describing his Journey to Brmdisi, as "stuffed with sailors and surly landlords. " It was where they~ took water to pass through the Pontine marshes. " Claudius Drusus erected a statue of himself wearing a crown, at Appn Forum " Suetonius. From here to the Three Taverns is 22 miles - where St Paul and his companions would halt for the night; and were some more of the brethren met him; and so they " went toward Rome. " VIA APPIA NOVA which we enter between the 7th and 8th mile. A ruined aqueduct which supplied the Villa of the Quintilii, here crosses the road, which is on our left. On the right, brick tomb of the time of the Antonines. Between the 3rd and 4th mile at the back of the Osteria, site of the temple of Fortuna Muliebris, where Coriolanus was over- persuaded by his wife and mother. In the line of the aqueducts is Torre Fiscale a mediaeval tower. Returning by this road, a fine view of the different AQUEDUCTS may be obtained. The three principal are the MARCIA, built b. c. 145; APPIA, b.c. 34; CLAUDIAN, a.d. 36. The Ro' mans finding the water from the Tiber and the wells sunk in the Gity unwholesome, built these aqueducts to bring the wa ter from the hills that surround the Campagna, but their si tuation and purpose rendered them exposed to attack during war, which accounts partly for their destruction. Four of them still supply the city with water. The aqua Marcia which has its source near Subiaco, from Tivoli it passes into pipes to Rome where it enters at the Porta Pia. It was brought in by a a Company and opened by Pius IX on the 10th of Septem ber 1870. The Aqua Virgo,, built by Agrippa B. C. 21 has its source near the 8th milestone on the Via Collatina, resto red by Nicholas V. It supplies the Trevi Fountain. The Aqua Alseatina built by Augustus A. D. 10 on the other side of the Tiber has its source 35 miles from Rome, at the Largo Bac- cano. It was restored by Paul V and supplies the Pauline RAMBLE III. 103 Fountain. Aqua Felici made by Sixtus V. A. D. 1587 its source is near La Colonna, formerly the source of Hadrian's Aque duct it runs parallel with the Claudian and Julian near Rome in some places being built out of their remains and on their piers. Pliny says " If any one will diligently estimate the abundance of water supplied to the public baths, fountains, fish-ponds, artificial la kes, and galley-fights, to pleasure gardens, and to almost every private house in Rome ; and will then consider the difficulties that were to be surmounted, and the distance from which these streams were brought, he will confess that nothing so wonder ful as these aqueducts can be found in the whole world. " At the second mile the road is crossed by the VIA LATINA so called becauses it led through the Latin States, it branched out of the via Appia on the left outside the Porta Capena and within the Porta San Sebastiano, seepage 92, which leads to the PORTA LATINA CLOSED. It is formed of two round brick towers and a travertine stone arch, with grooves for a portcullis, on the key stone it has the early Christian emblems, the labarum. The Roman Catholic tradition is that St John the Evangelist was thrown into a cauldron of boiling oil inside this gate, where the circular church stands. After the road intersects the Via Appia Nova we come on our right to some beautiful. PAINTED TOMBS. One discovered in 1859 is covered with beautiful 'paintings and stucco reliefs. Eight landscapes with groups of men and animals with small arabesque borders beautifully finished. The reliefs on the Vault represent the Trojan war, and figures of Hercules Chitaredes, Jupiter with the Eagle and Centaurs hun ting lions etc. Near by, discovered at the samo time is THE BASILICA OF ST STEPHEN Founded about A. D. 450 by Demetria a member of the Ani- cian family; It was rebuilt by Leo III A. D. 800. A Bell Tower 104 RAMBLES IN ROME was erected by Lupus Grigarius about 30 years afterwards. The ground plan can be easily made out as also, the remains of the altar and baptistery. In front of the tribune is a vault,. entered by stairs, similar to those in most of the Roman Ca tholic Basilicas, where the Martyrs were buried. It stands amidst the ruins of a large Roman Villa of the Servilii and Asinii. descovered by Sig. Fortunati. For some, reason the gap left in the wall surrounding the basilica and by which visitors entered; has been lately built up and so it cannot be seen. From hence we enter the city by the modern Porta S. Gio<~ vanni in Laterano (see Ramble 5). NOTES RAMBLE IV. Mausoleum of Augustus — The Campus Martius — Foro Agonale — St Agnese —Pasquino — Cancelleria, Farne se' and Spacla Palaces — Pompey 's Theatre— St Paul's House — Theatre of Balbus — Cenci Palace — Portico of Octavia — Theatre of Marcellus — Temples of Piety, Hope and Juno — Island of the Tiber — Church of St. Crisogono- Vigilii of the seventh Cohort — Church of St. Maria in Trastevere — The Corsini and Farniesina Pa laces — S Onofrio and Tasso's Tomb — St Peter in Mon- torio — Villa Pamphilia — Pauline Fountain — St. Ceci lia in Trastevere — Ponte Rotto — Horatio's Bridge — House of Rienzi — Temple of Fors Fortuna — Arch of Janus — Arch of the Silversmiths — Church of St George — Cloaca Maxima — St. Anastasia — The Circus Maxi mus — St. Maria in Cosmedin — Temple of Vesta? — Em porium — Mons Testaccio — Protestant Cemetery — Porta S. Paolo — Pyramid of Caius Cestius — St. Paul's Church — Tre Fontane — Basilica of Petronilla — Catecombs of SS. Nereus and Achilleus — The Aventine , Churches of SS. Saba, Prisca, Sabina — Alexius — II Priorato. THE MAUSOLEUM OF AUGUSTUS. Turning out of the Corso into the VIA DE' PONTE- FICI, at the end of which, through a gateway on the left, are the remains of this once handsome tomb ; only tho double brick wall on which the tumulus with its trees formerly stood still remains. This ruin has been converted into a modern 106 RAMBLES IN ROME circus, and thus the original finely proportioned organism can no longer be traced. A part of the inclosure wall may be best seen from the court of the Palazzo Valdambrini, Via Ripetta. It was built by Augustus B. C. 27. Marcellus, Agrippa, Dru sus, and Germanicus were buried here. Strabo describes it as standing upon a lofty substruction of white stone, and shaded up to tho top with trees. The summit was crowned with the statue of Augustus in bronze. It stood in THE CAMPUS MARTIUS. .Which Strabo thus describes " The plain, adorned by na ture and art, is of wonderful extent, and affords an ample and clear space for the running of chariots, and other eque strian and gymnastic exercises. It is in verdant bloom through out the year, and is crowned by hills which rise above the Tiber, and slope down to its very banks. The whole affords a picturesque and beautiful landscape. Which you would lin ger to behold. Near to this plain is another of less magni tude ; and all around it are innumerable porticos and shady groves ; besides three theatres, an amphitheatre, and various temples contignous to each other; so that tho rest of the city appears only an appendage to it. " This lesser plain occupied the space between the Mausoleum of Augustus and the theatre of Marcellus. " The Plain " from the tomb to the modern Ponte Molle. " In the VIA RIPETTA, on the right, are the steps lead ing down to the Tiber. Keeping straight on down the VIA DELLA SCROFA, in the third turning on the right, at VIA PORTOGHESI, is the TORRE DELLA SCIM- MIA, an old mediajval tower, which has on its summit a ma donna, and at dusk a lantern burns like a bright star before it. An author gave it the name of HILDA'S TOWER, and made it the abode of his heroine, by which name it is known to Anglo-American visitors. Keeping straight on down the VIA DELLA SCROFA and VIA d' SEDIOLA, turning to the right we reach the PIAZZA NAVONA, now called the FORO AGONALE since it occupies the site of the Circus Agonalis. It is ador ned with the handsome CHURCH OF ST AGNESE said to have been built on tho site were St Agnes was ex posed after her torture, the high altar in the subterranean chapel is said to stand on the very spot. In another" part is shown her prison and where she was beheaded and burned. RAMBLE IV. 107 The old church occupying the side vaults of the Circus. The upper church contains eight columns of red Cortanella marble, it is ornamented with stucco, statues, altoreliefs, and pictures. Behind the high altar is the sepulchral chapel of Princess Mary Talbot wife of Prince Doria who died in 1857. This Piazza is supposed by some to be the site of the Sta dium of Domitian. Notice the three fountains — the centre one by Bernini : — four figures, representing four rivers, recline on a craggy rock: on its top stands an Egyptian Obelisk ; at its base a lion and a sea-horse. Crossing the bottom of the PIAZZA NA VON A we enter a PIAZZA in which is the celebrated STATUE OF PASQUINO a'mutilated torso found here in the 16th century. It takes its name from Pasquino a tailor, who lived opposite and whose shop was the rendezvons of the wits of the city, and who wrote their jokes and stuck them on the statue , these were replied to by the statue of Marfoiio, now in tht Capitol Museum. ¦ " Some of Pasquino's sayings were very witty and have been published. Now under a free government he seldom speaks except in carnival when he leads " all the fun of the fair. " Pasquin's replies. What the Barbarians did not, the Barberini did. Public, thou liest, they were not public vows, but were vows of Ihy vain despotism. Canova has llns time made a mi stake. He has clothed Italy, and she is stripped. The most nigh above sends us the tempest, the most high below takes from us that which remains, avid between the two most highs, we are very badly off. The French are all rogues, not all — but a good part of them (Bo naparte.) Pasquino. Beware Caesar, lest thy Rome becomes a republic. Ccesar. Caesar governs. Pasgwi/io. Therefore he will be crow ned. A heretic had the preference, al ter him, a schismatic; but now there is a Turk. Goodbye , Peter's Li- rary ! In reference to the Barberini family having destroyed the antiquities. Inscription put up over the door of the Sacristy of St Peter's. Statue of Italy by Canover exhi bited during the French Invasion. Some decrees of Napoleon's and a sever storm which visited the City. French occupation of Rome. Marriage of a man named Cifsar to a nirl named Roma. Appointment of the librarians of the Vatican. 108 RAMBLES IN ROME The VIA DI S. PANTALEO then the VIA BAULLARI, takes us into the CAMPO DI FIORE where the vegetable market is held, as also a fair of old curiosities, &c. every Wed nesday. Adjoining is the PALAZZO DELLA CANCELLERIA one of the finest palaces in Rome, built out of the travertine taken from the Colosseum , the 44 red granite columns which support the portico came from Pompey's Theatre. At the foot of the staricase Count Rossi was assassinated in November 1848. Opening out of this Piazza is the PIAZZA FARNESE, facing which is THE FARNESE PALACE In the Piazza are two fountains the granite basins of which were found in the baths of Caracalla. The Palace is not now to be visited, as it is occupied by the French Embassy. Its architecture is more admired than that of any other palace in Rome; it was built by Pope Paul III., with materials taken from the Colosseum. Its rooms are adorned with frescos of Annibale Caracci, his finest work, consisting of mythological subjects. The centre piece represents The triumph of Baccus and Ariadne. The adjoining street VICOLO DEI VENTI leads to THE SPADA PALACE in the Piazza Capo di Ferro. Open on Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday, 10 till 3. Contains the famous statue of Pom pey, at whose feet Ca3sar fell. The picture gallery is provided with catalogues. The statue was found in 1553 under two houses thejproprie- tors of which proposed to cut it in two to settle to whom it should belong when Pope Julius III bought it. " There was a statue of Pompey and it was a work which Pompey had consecreated for an ornament to his theatre. Either by accident or pushed hither by the conspirators he expired on the pedestal of Pompey's statue and dyed it with his blood " Plutarch. " Augustus removed the statue of Pompey from the senate house, in which Julius Ceesar had been killed , and placed it under a marble arch, fronting the palace attached to Pompey's Theatre " Suetonius. RAMBLE IV. 109 In returning to the CAMPO DI FIORI by the VICOLO DEI BALESTRARI on the right is the PALAZZO PIO built upon the ruins of POMPEY'S THEATRE erected by The great Pompey, restored by Tiberius, Caligula, and Theodoric. Over the theatre was a temple to Venius Vic- trix. The site of the PortiGO was on the other side. " The place too whore the senate was to meet seemed pro videntially, favorable for their purpose. It was a portico adjoi ning to the theatre, and in the midst of a saloon, furnished with benches, stood a statue of Pompey, which had been erec ted to him by the commonwealth when he adorned that part of the city with those buildings. The senate being assembled and Csesar entering the conspirators got close about Caesar's chair Cassius turned his face to Pompey's statue , and invok ed it, as if it had been sensible of his prayers " Plutarch. Continuing our Ramble down the VIA DEI GIUBBO- NARI, brings us to the PIAZZA CA TINARI from which on the right the VIA DE BRANCA and VIA DI S. MARIA MONTICELLI leads to the VIA DEGLI STREN- GARI the house on the left No 2 is pointed out by tradition as THE HOUSE OF ST PAUL where, " after three days Paul called the chief of the Jews together " and where, " there came many to him into his lod ging. " Tradition and the Jews all round point to this house as being where Paul lived and they add that he had a school there. It has been rebuilt at an early period on the original sub structions of the early Empire it is but a short distance from the Ghetto, even then occupied by Jews, and it seems more probable that St Paul would have taken up his abode here than on the Via Flaminia or Via Lata (see page 43). There; the substructions consist of three chambers, with remains of Fre scoes on the walls, but too faided to distinguish the subjects, evidently the remains of some ancient building. Ths massive blocks of stone formed part of the basement of a triumphal arch of Agrippa, taken down by Innocent VIII in rebuilding the church. , . These remains; continue under the Palazzo Dona, and for med part of the portico of the Septa Julia. Built by Julius Csesar in the Campus Martius, and which was a mile square. It was an open space were the Comitia Centuriata were held. 110 RAMBLES IN ROME It was destroyed by the fire under Titus, restored by Domitian and Hadrian, and had evidently nothing to do with any house. There is still a third site pointed out by the Roman, Catho lic church viz the adjoining church of St Paolo della Regola, St Paul of the religious order. No one can give any authority for this site »and the most likely place is the house no 2 Via degli Strengari. THEATRE OF BALBUS. Erected B. C. 12 as a compliment to Augustus it held 12000 spectators. Take the lane on our left VIA DI S. BARTOLOMEO DEI VACCINARI here are six massive columns with capitals part of Balbus' theatre the vaults of which can be seen under the houses at tho corner of the VIA MORTELLA up this street on the left is an altar built into a house with the inscription deo herculi. To the right the VIA DELLA SEGGIOLA leads to the PIAZZA CENCI, passing under the arch. Built into no 23 VIA S. MARIA DEI CALDERARI are two columns of Travertine Stone of the Doric order, above which are remains of an architrave interspersed with brick work, opposite are three pilasters supporting a vault. The PALAZZO CENCI, in the PIAZZA SCUOLE, stands upon part of the ruins. The " scene of the persecution of Beatrice, and which led to her exe cution through the murder of her Father at Potrella. " The story is, that an old man having spent his life in de bauchery and wickedness, conceived at length an implacable hatred towards his children ; which showed itself towards one daughter under the form of an incestuous passion, aggravated by every circumstance of cruelty and violence. This daugh ter, after long and vain attempts to escape from what she considered a perpetual contamination both of body and mind, at, length plotted with her mother in law and brother to murder their common tyrant, Shelley. " The Cenci"' Palace is of great extent; and though in part modernized, there yet remains a vast and gloomy pile of feu dal architecture in the same state as during the dreadful sce nes which are the subject of this tragedy. (The Cenci.) The palace is situated in an obscure corner of Rome, near the quar ter of the Jews, and from the upper windows you see the im mense rnins of Mount Palatine half hidden under their pro- RAMBLE IV. Ill fuse over growth of trees. , There is a court in one part of the palace (perhaps that in which Cenci built the chapel to St. Tho mas), supported by granite columns and adorned with antique friezes of fine workmanship, and built up, according to, the ancient Italian fashion, with balcony over balcony of open work. One of the gates of the palace formed of immense stones and leading through a passage, dark and lofty and opening into gloomy subterranean chambers , struck me particularly. " Shelley. The adjoining PIAZZA DI S. M. DEL PIANTO occupies the site of the Jewish Forum, this is the central point of the Ghetto or Jews quarter. There is a curious inscription upon one of the house also the remains of a tomb. The VIA RUA, the house on the right contains remains of the theatre which are scattered about all the neighbouring streots and from their similarity can be eaisly traced. Passing clown the street on the left is tho PORTICO DI OCTAVIA, dedicated to Octavia by her brother Augustus. The principal portion still existing belonged to the great portal leading to the open space surrounded by corridors, which gave the people shelter during rain. In this stood two temples, tho one dedi cated to Jupiter, the other to Juno. Pillars belonging to the latter may be seen in the house No. 12, Via Teatro di Mar- cello. The inscription on the architrave states that the building was restored by Septimius Severus and Caracalla. It may have sustained new injuries at a later period. On the removal of two of the pillars on which the beams rested , their place was supplied by an arch of brickwork , thus preventing the building from falling in. Four pillars and two piers are still standing in front ; in the inner side only two pillars remain, in addition ijo the two piers. The capitals are ornamented with eagles bearing thunderbolts. A flight of steps led up to this vestibule. Three pillars of cipollino, appearing to have belonged_ to a continuation of the series of halls connected with this vestibule, are still standing in the Via della Pescheria. The stumps of pillars, built into the walls of several houses in the vicinity, in all probability belonged to tho same edifice , which must originally have presented a most magnificent appearance. Going up the VIA TEATRO DI MARCELLO into the PIAZZA MONT AN ARA are the remains of the 1 12 RAMBLES IN R OME THEATRE OF MARCELLUS. The design for erecting a stone theatre in this quarter had been entertained by Julius Csesar. but the carrying out of his adopted father's plan was reserved for Augustus. He did not, however, appropriate the honour of so great a work to him self, but transferred it to his beloved son-in-law , Marcellus. Great part of the outer walls of this large and splendid buil ding still exists. Against these leaned the arches, supporting the tier of seats destined for the spectators. The greater por tion of the vast halls have also been preserved ; but being now converted into offices belonging to the palace which has insi nuated itself into these ruins, they are not accessible to stran gers. The lower story is in the Doric, the second in the Ionic, and the third was probably in the Corinthian order. THE DECEMVIRAL PRISONS Built by Appius Claudius for common offenders near the Forum Olitorium and which sit. was afterwards occupied by the theatre of Marcellus. This prison can still be seen under the theatre, the entrance is through a cheesemonger's shop under one of the old arches. After descending below the stone work of the theatre, we come to some passages and chambers of an entirely different construction of beautiful workmanship in Opus reticulatum far surpassing 'anything else of the sort in Rome , the pointing is as though the workmen had just finished it. The angles of the walls are likewise composed of tufa , not unlike our English bricks in shape , there are two splendid open arches, of the samo material, leading into two large chambers in the vaults of which are holes for letting the prisoners down. This I believe to have been the Decem- viral prisons and the scene of Caritas Romana. " Here youth offered to old age the food, The milk of his own gift " ¦ — Byron visited the chambers under St Nicola in Carcere when he was inspired to compose his beautiful lines. He had before him the scene tho' not the site, his words are more applicable to these dungeons and we may say with him " There is a dungeon, in whose dim drear light What do I gaze on? Nuthing : A short way up the VIA MONTANARA, (turn to the right from the Theatre) is the church of St NICOLA IN CAR CERE, built amidst the ruins of three temples. Entrance to see the substructions through the sacristy. RAMBLE IV. 113 THE TEMPLE OF JUNO SOSPITA, PIETY, AND HOPE, three temples of the time of the republic, situated in one front, and forming a group. Not only many pillars, but also considerable remains of the substructions, have been preserved: the latter have been ren dered accessible by the recent excavations. The largest of these temples, Piety situated in the middle, is of Ionic architecture. It is surrounded by a corridor, and is probably the same erected to Piety by the son of M. Acilius Glabrio ten years after the event, in fulfilment of a vow made by his father at the battle of Thermopylae. A. U. C. 562 erec ted 572. Tho left hand temple is that of Juno Sospita (to keep in health) founded by Cethsegus B. C. 195. The temple of Hope is on the right : erected by Attilius Calatinus during the first Punic war. They were situated in the Forum Olitorium the great vege table marked of Rome and outside the Servian wall. The cus- todi shows a cell which he points out as the scene of the " Caritas Romana "- Visitor! " beware, beware, he's fooling thee ". This is not that Temple of Piety erected on the site of the house of the Roman Matron, or according to somo au thorities on the site of the Decemviral prisons; for Pliny and Solinus tell us that the sites of the Temple and prison were oeeupied by the Theatre of Marcellus. According to Valerius Maximus Bk 5. c. IV., Pliny N. H. Bk 7. c. XXXVI. It was a daughter who thus saved her mother's life and " they were henceforth provided by the state. " Festus 609 says it was her father. See above. In the VIA DELLA FIUMARA, to the right of the bridge, Rienzi was born, tho' the exact house is not known. Crossing the PONTE DEI QUATTRO CAPI. It was the ancient Pons Fabricius built A. U. C. 733, we reach THE ISLAND OF THE TIBER. The island in the Tiber is an alluvial formation , and thus far the legend is correct in ascribing its origin to the accu mulation of rubbish and drifted sand. In remembrance of the vessel which bore the statue of JEsculapius from Epidaurus to Rome , the entire island was faced with stone , and made to assume the form of a ship, in which was placed tho temple of the god. Some of the immense blocks of travertine composing the facing, and representing the hull of the ship, may still be 114 RAMBLES IN ROME seen in the Monastry garden of the church of St. Bartolomeo in Isola. Ladies are not admitted to the Monastry. " In the Island of the Tiber, just prior to the death of Otho, the statue of Julius Qossar turned frem West to East, a cir cumstance said likewise to have happened when Vespasian took on him the empire. "Plutarch. In the Piazza is a monument to the Saints John, Francis, Bartholomew, and Paulinus. The interior of tho church is em bellished with fourteen ancient columns, and in_the choir are the remains of an early mosaic. Crossing the PONTE St. BAR TOLOMEO. The ancient Pons Cestius A. U. C. 708 and repaired A. D. 367 by the Emperors Valentinian , Valens and Gratian as shown by the inscriptions. We are in TRASTEVERE, the inhabitants of which claim to bo descended from the_ Ancient Romans; their manners and customs are somewhat distinct irom the inhabitants of the other side of the river. Taking out- route doivn the VIA LUNGARETTA on the left, in the piazza of the same name, is the CHUPtCH of S. CHRISOGONO, founded by Pope Sylvester, and rebuilt 1623. It has a fine old mosaic pavement, and the aisles are formed by twenty-two columns, two in porphry supporting the arch. A mosaic in the tribune represents the Madonna and Child enthroned between St. James and St. Crisogono. The ceiling- was painted by Ar- pino. On the left of the piazza is the small street, MONTE DI FIORE, in which is the. STAZIONE VII COHORTI DEI VIGILI (Roman Firemen). Remodelled and formed into seven watches, on this of the Tiber, by Augustus, it was discovered in 1866. The custodian conducts the visitor over, fee half a franc. Des cending the stairs we .enter a mosaic paved court-yard , with' a well in the centre, and on the right a small altar with mural paintings. There are several other chambers, and a bath, with numerous inscriptions on the walls scratched by the firemen during their idle moments. Going down the VIA LUNGARETTA, we enter the PIAZ ZA OF St. MARIA, in which is a fine fountain and the CHURCH of Sta MARIA The facado is covered with mosaics representing the Virgin and child enthroned, surrounded by ten virgins, and on either side the figure of a bishop (Innocent II, and" Eugene II);' above RAMBLE IV. 115 this are palms, the .twelve sheep, and the mystic cities , and Uur Lord enthroned between angels. The interior contains twenty-two columns, and the Assump tion on the ceiling is by Domenichino. Beneath the high altar are tho remains of five early popes ; in the unper part of the tribune are mosaics of the Saviour and Virgin,* on thrones, be neath which are lambs and representations from the. life of the Virgin. Leaving the church , and going down the VIA DELLA SCALA. Passing under the PORTA SETTIMIANA brings us to the VIA LONGARA , a short distance on the left is THE CORSINI PALACE open Monday, Thursday and Saturday , from .9 till 3. Catalogues in each room for the use of visitors. The most celebrated works are the Ecce Homo, by Guercino, and ditto by Carlo Dolci ; the Woman and Child, by Murillo ; Madonna and Child by Carlo Dolci. The library, No 11 Via Lungara, is open every day except Wednesday, for three hours before sunset. It contains 60,000 books and 1800 MSS. THE FARNES1NA PALACE opposite the Corsi-ni. Open on the 1st and 15th of each month from October till May. Contains the famous frescoes of Raphael; on the coiling of the first room that of the fable of Cupid and Psyche, designed by Raphael, painted by Giulio Romano. This charming fable is described by Kugler in his Hand-book on the Italian Painters. Commencing on the left, tho 1st is Vonus ordering Cupid to punish Psyche, 2nd Cupid showing Psyche the three Graces, 3rd Juno and Ceres pleading for Psyche, 4th Venus in her car going to claim the interference of Jupiter, 5th Venus pleading before Jupiter, 6th Mercury flying to -execute the order of Ju- -piter, 7th Psyche with the" vase of beauty paint given by Pro serpine to appease Venus, 8th Psyche giving the vase to Ve nus, 9th Cupid complaining to Jupiter, 10th Mercury taking Psyche to Olympus. On the vault, Council of the Gods by Giulio Romano, Banquet of the Gods,on the Marriage of Cupid, by Francesco Penni. On the wall of the second room Raphael's Galatea; on the ceiling Diana in her car drawn by oxen, by Peruzzi , and the fable of Medusa by D. Volterra. The land scapes are by Poussin. Continuing down the Longara a street of the same name on the left leads up to the church of 116 RAMBLES IN ROME S. ONOFRIO : — TASSO'S TOMB. This convent is for ever memorable in the history of Italian literature as the place where Tasso died. The adjoining church built for the use of the monks — called Girolmini , or Bro thers of St. Jerome — was built A. D. 1429 during the reign Of Eugene the 4th. Tasso died in 1595, a short time after his arrival in Rome, summoned to the Capitol, to be crowned there as king of bards. He was buried in the church without much ceremony, and his remains lay undisturbed in a simple tomb on the left, of the entrance until the year 1857, when they were transferred to a chapel in the church expressly built for their reception at the public expense. A fine statue of the poet by Fabris is shown. In the convent garden is a tree called Tasso's Oak under which the author of '' Jerusalem Delivered " used to sit in pious meditation. The view of Rome and of the Sa bine and Alban Hills, with Soracte in the distance, is magni ficent. The fresco of the " Virgin and Child " over the door of the church and three paintings under the portico illustrating the Lite of St. Jerome, are the work of Domenichino. In the convent is a " Virgin and Child " by Leonardo da Vinci, and in the same building are preserved (in the room where he died) several relics of Tasso : — his crucifix , his inkstand, and the leaden coffin in which his bones reposed for two hundred and sixty years namely till the time of his second burial. Two other distinguished men were buried at St. Onofrio: Guidi the poet, and Cardinal Mezzofanti, the famous linguist. Retracing our steps up the Longara passing the PORTA SETTIMIANA in the walls of Leo the VIA GARIBALDI on the right leads to the garden crowned height of ST. PIETRO IN MONTORIO which commands a magnificent view of Rome, its surroundings, and the windings of the Tiber. The church was erected Try Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, and in the court of the mo nastery is a small temple formed of sixteen Doric columns, said to be erected over the spot where the cross on which St Peter Was executed stood. Raphael's Transfiguration was painted for this church, from whence it was taken by the French to adorn the Louvre, and on its restoration to the Papal authorities was placed in the Vatican. The tomb of Beatrice Cenci is to the left of the high altar, but no name is recorded on the stone. Above the church is RAMBLE IV. 117 THE PAULINE FOUNTAIN which is supplied by the ancient Acqua Trajana , which has its souroe in the Lago di Bracciano, thirty-five miles from iRome . It is built out of the remains of the Temple of Minerva, Tte road through the PORTA S. PANCRAZIO, leads to the VILLA PAMPHYLI DORIA open on Monday and Friday afternoons, one-horse carriages not admitted, situated on the summit of the Janiculum , the most extensive and delightful of the Roman villas, abounding in avenues and woods, fountains and cascades; from the ilex- fringed terrace there is one of the best views of St. Peter's. .A lake supporting swans , a temple to the slain amongst the besiegers of Rome in 1849, all of which must be seen to be appreciated. Reentering the city and descending the hill by the new Road, thence by the VIA DELLE FRATTE, we reach the church of Sta CECILIA, originally the house of the saint. To the right, on entering, is the tomb of Adam Hereford , Bishop of London , who died in 1398. The second chapel on the right is said to have been the bath room , and the pipes may still be seen in the wall. Ssneath the high -altar is the statue flf Sta Cecilia,, rep resenting her body as found in the Catacombs of St. Galixtus ¦" not lying upon the back, like a body in a tomb, but upon its right side, like a virgin in her bed, with her knees modestly drawn to gether, and offering the appearance of sleep ". A golden circlet conceals the wound in her throat that caused her death. The inscription is >as follows: " Behold the body of the most .holy Virgin , Cecilia , whom I myself saw lying incorrupt in her tomb. I have in this marble expressed forlthee the same saint in the very same posture of body. — Stefano Maderno. " Thus was the body found in her tomb in 1599, when Cardinal Sfon- drati restored the church, just as it had been deposited there 800 years before after being found in the Cate.combs by Pas chal I. See page 96. By the VIA DE VASCELLARI, we reach the PONTE ROTTO, or Pons GEmilius. This bridge, intended to unite the nearer bank of the river with Trastevere, but rendered impassable b^y 118 . RAMBLES IN ROME the fall of severalarches, whence its name of the Ponte Rotto, was erected by the Censors M. (Emilius Lepidus and M. Ful- vius Nobilior, in the year of the city 573=B. c. 181, and com-. pleted by P. Scipio Africanus and L. Mummius. From the first of these, it took its name. If is the same from which the body of Heliogabalus was thrown with a stone attached, to it, after having been dragged through the Circus. It was partly carried away by a flood in 1598, and the gap has been filled by 'a suspension bridge, toll d/2 d. Here a, fine view may be obtained of the river : looking up, the island of the Tiber, with its two bridges, and old water mills, and re volving fishing nets; whilst looking down we see on the left the mouth of the Cloaca Maxima , the Temple of Vesta.., and the famous SUBLICIAN BRIDGE, in front of which Horatius displayed his valour. It " was first erected A. U. 0 114 by Ancus Martius. By appointment of the oracle it was only of Timber fassened . with wooden pins. The stone bridge (of which we. have the remains) was built when JEmylius'was questor and was destroyed by a flood, in 780. " Still is the story told, How Well Horatius kept the bridge In the brave days of old. " Near this spot Cloelia swam across the Tiber .on* horseback.. when escaping from Lars Porsena. " While Codes kept the bridge, and slemm'd the flood, The captive maids there tempt the raging tide. Scap'd from their cllains, with Cloelia for their guide. " Virgil. After crossing the bridge; on our left is the HOUSE OF RIENZI. " The Roman of Rome's least mortal mind. " The friend of Petrae'h and liberty Who died for Rome and Italy. liienzi! the Patriotic Roman — Close by whose house does wind, The Tibi-r, subservient .to the will of no man. It is the remains of one of those mediaeval towers, used by the Romans as fortresses, and, as such, bore the name of the Torre di Morizone- It was demolished by Arlotto degli Stefa- aeschi, in the year 1313, in order to diminish the power of the RAMBLE IV. 119 Orsini, in -whose possession it was. An inscription on the ruin, states the founder to have been a certain Nicolas, the son of ' Crescentius and Theodora.' Hence it has been supposed that the Crescentius here mentioned is identical with the celebrated consul, who ruled over Rome A. D. 998: an opinion streng thened by .the fact of his wife having really borne the name of Theodora. Part of old rhyming Verse on the house of Riemi. First of the foremost, Nicholas great from a low estate, Raised (this) to revive the glory of his. fathers. There is placed the name of Ins father and mother, Crescentius and Theodora. This renowned roof, hare from (a) clear pledge : The father who displayed it, assigned it to David. The neighbouring people call this ruin the Casa di Pilato , and. the appellation Of the Casa di Cola di Rienzi has been added since thejast century. Opposite is the TEMPLE OF FORS FORTUNA. ."Servius Tullius erected a temple to Fortuna Verilis in the Forum called Boarium, the other, on " the banks of the river Tiber, which he called Fortis Fortunae. Dion Cassius. .. Converted in 880 into the church of ST. MARIA EGIZIACA; it has four Ionic columns at each end and seven on one side. A frieze of stucco or terra cotta, representing heads of oxen, cande labra, and wreaths of flowers, born by children, is on the enta blature ; it is 100 feet long by fifty wide. Continuing up the street that runs from the bridge VIA PONTE ROTTO, cros sing the VIA BOCCA DELLA VERITA , the street opposite VIA DI ST. GIOVANNI DECOLLATO, leads us to the ARCH OF JANUS, a double arch of considerable magnitude, believed by the com mon report to be that of the four-headed Janus, the appearance of- the structure involuntarily recalling the-celebrated sanctuary of that god in the Forum; with which, however, it must not be confounded. In the sides of the piers which .support the arch are twelve niches, apparently intended for the reception of sta tues.' In one of these is a door-way leading, up a narrow staircase to a. chamber in the interior of the building, probably used, as a place for business. 1 20 RAM BLES IN R OME This singular building, which in its present condition has a somewhat quaint appearance, has evidently been intended for a place of sale. Being erected over the spot where the two roads intersecting the cattle-market met, it seems to have marked the central point of the traffic carried on in this space. On the left is THE ARCH OF THE SILVERSMITHS AND CATTLE DEALERS We are indebted to this inconsiderable little monument, stat ed in the inscription to have been raised by the silversmiths and cattle dealers to the imperial family of Septimius Severus, for the important information that the Forum Boarium, men tioned in the legends of the foundation of Rome, was situa ted on this spot. The sculptures with which the arch is or namented are much defaced, and hidden from view on one side by the church of St. Georgio. Those in the interior re present sacrifices offered by the emperor and his sons. On one of the side piers is the figure of Hercules, evidently with re ference to this locality, which was consecrated to him, and in the neighbourhood of which he had actually erected the Ara Maxima. At the back, is a representation of a ploughman with a yoke of oxen, also in allusion to the myths , the different threads of which all unite at this point. On the pilasters, the capitals of which are Roman, we dis cover among various field-badges the portraits of the empe ror and one of his sons ; that of Geta having been obliterated after his murder, by the orders of Caracalla. Adjoining is the church of ST. GIORGIO IN VELABRO, founded in the fourth century. The architrave above its por tico (of the 13th century) is where Rienzi affixed his procla mation, annoncing the return to the Good Estate. It is sel dom opened except on its festival, January 20th. The aisles are formed by sixteen different columns, no doubt the plunder of some other building. It is dedicated to the patron saint of England, a pioae of whose banner is preserved beneath the altar. Proceeding "down the low brick arch-way opposite , brings us to THE CLOACA MAXIMA, originally made by Tarquinius Superbus in the year 220 of Rome, or 530 years before Christ, and part of the actual con- RAMBLE IV. 121 struction appears to be original and of that time. It is built of the larger blocks of tufa, and has a round headed vault. The German theory is that this great drain was originally open at the top, and not vaulted over till the time of Camillns after the capture of Veii in the war with the Etruscans, but the construction does not agree with this. There is no breach in the walls, unless it be in some of the two parts not now visi ble. The -additional branch of the Cloaca made by Agrippa to carry off the water from his Terrace near the Pantheon (to supply which the Acqua Virgo was made) is of brick , after the fashion of his time. This can be seen at the junction near The Church of St. Giorgio in Velabro or the Janus Quadri- frons. Several natural streams of water are collected in this great drain, and still run throught it. One from the Quirinal runs straight between the Palatine and the Capitol. A second comes from the eastern side of the Palatine and the arch of Titus. A third runs from the Capitol, the spring being in the lower chamber of the Prison of St. Peter. All these met near the Forum Romannm, and formed the lake of CurtiUs, which was drained by the great Cloaca. But this drain is not so low down as the lake was deep, consequently there is alwa3rs a swamp there, even now, after much rain Two other streams fall into it near the Janus, one from the direction of the Pan theon, the other from the western side of the Palatine coming out of the cave called the Lupercal, where the water gushes out from under the arch with great force. This is called the Aqua Argentina, or the silvery water, either from its beauti ful clearness, or because it went through the Silversmiths' quarter, as is shown by an inscription over the arch near the Janus, dedicated to Septimius Severus by the silversmiths. THE VIA SAN TEODORO, under the Palatine, leads to the VIA DE CERCHI. At the corner of these two streets is the GHURGH OF S. ANASTASIA. Underneath which is part of the Paulvinarium or Cushioned Gallery of the Circus Maximus, made upon two massive towers, of the wall of the Kings, part of the old street, called after Julius Caesar which passed by tho side of the Circus to the arch of Janus. The Valley between the Palatine and Aven tine marks the site of the 1 22 RAMBLES IN R OME CIRCUS MAXIMUS, occupying the Murzian Valley through which flows the Ma- ranna in its way to the Tiber. The scene of the Rape of the Sabines. Founded by Tarquinius Priseus, Extended by Caesar' who surrounded it with a canal 10ft in depth. Embelished by, Augustus. Claudius rebuilt the carceres with marble , and' gilded the metse. Domitian rebuilt it after, its sides had been burnt down. Trajan. Constantine' and Theodoric also embelished and -resto red, it. It took its name from being the largest in Rome, ac- - comodating 260,000 people. At the end furtherst from the Tiber are some shaploss remains of the seats. Leaving the Church, with the Gas works on our left by the VIA DE CERCHI we reach the PIAZZA BOCCA DELLA VERITA; on the left is the church of ¦ Sta MARIA IN COSMEDIN the site of a temple of Ceres. " Cassius consecrated the Tem ple of Ceres, Bacchus , and Proserpine which stands at the end of the great circus and"* is built over the starting place. " Dion Cassius. In the portico is a large mask of stone called the Bocca della Verita (mouth of truth). A suspected, person on making an affirmation was required to put his hand in the, mouth, in the belief that if, ho told an untruth, the. mouth would close upon his hand. Several columns of the old temple are immured in the walls, and the aisles are formed, by twenty ancient marble columns; the pavements is of beautiful Opus Alexandrinum. Opposite the church is a beautiful fountain of tritons supporting a basin. On the further side of the piazza is the TEMPLE OF VESTA? or HERCULES? now Sta Maria del Sole, formed of twenty beautiful Corinthian columns, one of which, on the river side, non est. Its circum ference is only 156 feet, and that of the cella 26 feet, and the. height of the columns 32 feet. The walls within the portico are of white marble (much of which still remains) , and the pieties of it were put together so as to have the appearance of one mass. It is of the time of Jespasian. Resuming our ramble down the VIA MARMORATA, passing under the ARCO DI S. LAZARO, the road runs for a short RAMBLE IV. 123 'distance by the Tiber,, on the opposite side of which is the RIPA, GRANDE, or quay. Taking the road to the right, past a stoneyard by the river, brings us to THE EMPORIUM another important building of the time of the Republic, of which we have considerable remains. The exact date of its ^foundation is not recorded, but a porticus, or arcade, was made to it, and it-was paved, about the year .560 of Rome, 193 b. c. It was the great warehouse for the Port of Rome; for merchan dise brought by vessels coming from the sea. There was ano- .ther port at the Ripetta for provisions brought down the river in boats. The Emporium was to ancient Rome what the Docks are to London and Liverpool. This great building formed.* three sides in a quadrangle, the fourth being- open to the quay on the _bank of the Tiber, with a ziz-zag path down the face of the cliff and surface of the quay. This was excavated by the Pontifical Govern men 1. under the direction of Baron Visconti. It was remarkbly perfect: the walls against' the cliff were faced. with " opus reticulatuin " of the time of Trajan, and a large number of blocks of valuable marbles, were found here. A little further up the river an Amphora is cut in the wall of the quay, to indicate the place for landing wine and, oil. The portion of the Emporium now remaining belongs to the portico or arcade. There are said to be extensive cellars under r^the other remains, forming a lower story of the buildings, which it is hoped that Prince Torlonia , to whom it belongs , will excavate. The Emporium, and the quay by the side of it, called THE MARMORATA, or Marble Wharf, are situated at the, lower end of the great Port of Roma for sea going vessels, which port extended about half a mile up the river with the Salaria, or Salt Wharf, near the middle of it. Above this, and nearly opposite the -.point where the Marrana falls into the Tiber, are several large stone corbels with holes through them , through which a pole was passed for tho purpose ot fastening a chain across the river for holding vessels against the force of the stream. There are similar corbels in the Wall of the Marmo- rata for the same purpose, only these corbels are left plain; those at the upper end of the poi't are carved m the form of lion's heads of the early charactoMalled jitruscan Tnese corbels at the -two ends mark the extenFof the Port of Rome , made 'originally in the year 577 of Rome. Mr J. H. Parker C. B. 124 RAMBLES IN ROME Regaining the -main road, at a littte distance, we turn off to the right, and ascend MONS TESTACCIO formed of fragments of earthenware, chiefly of amphora?. We know from those remaining at Pompeii, that the amphorae which formed that branch of commerce , were often six feet high. Great numbers of these got broken in landing , and all were thrown in this heap, as they were not allowed to be thrown into the Tiber. There is also said to have been a manufactory of amphora?, and other earthenware , at this spot , many of the fragments found there being the refuse of a great manufactory. This is supposed to have been the great manufactory of ear thenware for the city of Rome for several centuries, and this supposition may account for the euormous quantity of such refuse that has accumulated on the spot, so much so to form a hill. Tombs, proving its comparatively recent origin, were discovered beneath it in the year 1696. It is 110 feet high, and surmounted by a cross. The view from the top is very fine. Close by is the PROTESTANT CEMETERY. " The spirit or the spot shall lead Thy footsteps to a slope of green access. " The cemetery is an open space among the ruins, covered in winter with violets and daisies. " It might make one in love with death, to think that one should be buried in so sweet a place. " So wrote Shelley, whose heart is contained in a tomb at the top left hand corner of the new ground, his body having been burnt upon the shore at Lerici, where it was thrown up by the sea, he having gone out in a boat, which was struck by a squall, and he sunk to rise no more. Passing into the old ground, " in the romantic and lovely cemetery under the pyramid which is the tomb of Cestius , and the mossy walls and towers, now mouldering and desolate , which formed the circuit of Ancient Rome, " " Here lies one whose name was writ in water. " Keats desiring this to be engraved upon his tomb, a fellow poets says, " you feel an interest here, a sympathy you were not prepared for; you are yourself in a foreign land, and they are for the most part your countrymen, Englishmen. " Passing through the RAMBLE IV. 125 PORTA St. PAOLO, formerly Porta Ostiensis, the most picturesque of Rome's gates. It consists of a double gate-way, the outer (of the time of Iheodoric) with one, the inner (of the time of Claudius) with two arches, flanked with towers. On the right is the PYRAMID of CAIUS CESTIUS erected by his heir Pontius Mela and his freedman Poehus. This imposing structure was faced with smoothly hewn slabs of marble, and stands on a basement of travertine measuring ninety-five feet in diameter. This monument, erected some twenty or thirty years before the Christian era, was indebted for its preservation to the cir cumstance of its having been incorporated by Aurelian in the line of his fortifications. The confined burial chamber (the paintings on the roof and walls of which are now almost obliterated), is reached through the doorway, introduced at some height on the north side. As is usually the case with tombs, in order to prevent spoliation, there were no steps leading up to the door. The west entrance is of more modern origin ; dating from the time of Alexander VII., who caused it to be broken through the wall, although the ancient, original doorway already afforded the- means of ingress. The lower portion of the monument was cleared from the rubbish which had accu mulated to the height of twenty feet at the same time , and the two fluted columns, resting upon travertine bases, were also dug up. Still more remarkable is the discovery of the remains of the colossal statue of C. Cestius, consisting of the foot and arm, now in the hall of Bronzes in the Capitol Museum. Keeping the straight road, we come to THE CHURCH of St. PAOLO, the first church built in the time of Constantine , to comme morate the martyrdom of St. Paul. It was destroyed by Are on July 15th, 1823; its restoration was immediately commenced, and it was reopened in 1854 by Pio Nono, The festa days are January 25th, June 30th, December 28th. The principal en trance towards the Tiber is still unfinished. Before the refor mation it was under the protection of the kings of England. It is the finest of Roman churches, and the visitor cannot fail to be charmed with is beauty ; it is one vast hall of marble , with eighty Corinthian pillars forming the nave , reflected in - 126 RAMBLES IN ROME the marble pavement. The grand arch which separates the nave from the transept, is a relic of the old Basilica, and the mosaic, Christ blessing in the Greek manner, with the twenty-four elders, is of the fifth century. On either side are statues of St. Peter and St. Paul; around the church, above the columns, are portraits of the popes, from St. Peter, in mosaics. The altar canopy is supported by four pillars of Oriental alabaster, given by Mahomet Ali, Pasja of Egypt. A marble staircase leads to the subterranean chapel, where are preserved the relics of the martyrs. The altars at each end of the transept are of malachite, given by the Czar of Russia. . The painted windows are worthy of attention, as also a beautiful alabaster candle- labrium saved from the fire. The walls and numerous chapels are adorned vrith frescoes and statues of the present day , giv ing a good idea of the actual state of art in Rome. By ap plying for the key in the sacristy, visitors can see the beau tiful court of the thirteenth century , which will fully repay inspection. The facade of the Basilica is toward the Tiber, the upper part of which has lately been uncovered : it consists of a beau tiful mosaic which has taken 13 years to complete and is the finest production of the Vatican manufactory. The whole is surmounted by a cross, under which are the words Spes-Unica below it is our Lord enthroned with Sts Peter and Paul on either side below the steps of his throne. A scene symbolic of the New Testament is below. A rock occupies the centre from which flow the four rivers of the Apocalypse on the summit is the Lamb supporting the cross. The cities of Jerusalem and Bethlehem are on each side whilst flocks of sheep botween the palm trees are symbolic of the Apostolic college. Below Isaiah, Jeremiah Ezekiel and Daniel typify the old Testament, The whole triangle is bordered with a mosaic of fruit and foliage. The road straight on past St. Paolo leads to the TRE FONTANE, or Three Springs, which are said to have sprung forth when St. Paul was executed here? his head rebounding three times after it. was cut off. Three churches have been built here,. but they are not of much interest. The rambler can return to the city from St. Paul's T>y omnibus, fare six sous, to the Piazza Campitelli. To the left the STRADA DELLE SETTE CHISSE leads to the VIA APPIA near the church of San Sebastiano. The hill on our right is interesting from being where. ' RAMBLE IV. 127 " Remus pitched upon the ground, now, called from him, Re- mum. , This place is Very proper for a city, being a hill, not tar from the Tiber, distant from Rome, about thirty stadia." Dion Cassius. , - Some way doivn near the Tor Marancia farm are the CATECOMBS OF DOMITILLA. It dates from the reign of Trajan and contained the remains' of saints Nereus and Achilleus, also of Petronilla, a member of the Aurelli family. The saints were the servants of Domi tilla -a daugther or. niece of Flavius Clemens, the first of im perial, blood who suffered Martyrdom, Domitilla opened this catecomb for the remains of her servants, afterwards canoni zed.. This is the most ancient christian catecomb which may be seen from the paintings and -brickwork of the Vestibule. The present entrance is modern ; the catecomb is intresting for its paintings. In 1874 the BASILICA OF Sta PETRONILLA, supposed to have been built about A. D. 400, was discovered the top being only a tew feet below the ground. It is sup-' posed to have been originally built for the devotees who re sorted to the Tombs of the Martyrs, and destroyed by the Lom- - bardians. On 'the' wall of the tribune is a graffito"-of a priest ^preaching probably St Gregory whose chair was moved from here to the church on the Via Appia see page 92. Beneath the floor were discovered many tombs covered over when the Basilica was built, A fresco was found representing Sta Petronilla receiving Ve- neranda. Several inscriptions have been found also the colu mns which supported the baldichino on which are represented the martyrdoms of S. S. Achilleus and Nereus. The Romans built an altar at the springs of the river Nu» t micius to Anna the sister of Dido who became the wife of the fod of the river Numicius, and she was called Anna Perenna. he Roman church erected a chapel to her on tho same spot ' under the title, of Santa Petronilla , said without scriptural authority to have been St Peter's daughter , and to have died iii Rome May 30th A. D. 98 in the reign ,of Domitian; this could not bo the case, for Domitian died A. D. 96 and Tra jan was, -emperor before the last of May 98 - Nerva having rei gned between. „'.'«,¦ ~ rm t, - In Returning by the VIA S. PAOLO, The Rambler after ¦ passing through the gate can take the road straight on, (not 128 RAMBLES IN ROME the road to the left by which we came,) and so visit the AVENTINE HILL, the principal objects are the churches of Sta SABA built on the site of the house of Silvia, the mother of Gre gory the Great who used to send every day to her son on the Coelian a silver basin containing soup. Uninteresting and only open on the Saint's day Dec 5th. St. PRISCA, supposed to occupy the site of the house, the remains of which can be seen in the vineyard, in which she was baptiged by St Peter. Only open on Janry 18th. Supposed to have been formerly the site of tho Temple of Diana founded by Servius Tullius. St SABINA, on the site of the saint's house and formerly of the Temple of Juno Regina, founded by Camillus. The church has been much restored at different times. In the chapel on the right of tbe high altar is Sassoferra- to's Virgin with the Rosary. The chapel of St Catherine pain ted by Odazzi is worthy of note. In tho gardens of the con vent is an orange tree planted by St Dommick. St ALEXIUS. On the site of the armilustrum where The Sabine king Ti tus Tatius, was buried. In the left aisle are a well and stair case belonging to the house of St Alexius's parents, (which formerly stood by the side .of the church,) and where he was allowed to live unrecognized by them, after his return from his pilgrimage. There is a very interesting fresco of St Ale xius's life on the walls of the underground church of St Cle- mente see Ramble 5. In passing to the church of St Maria Aventina or 11 Priorato, the door on the right side of the small piazza contains a Key- hole; — look throuyh it, 'tis worth your while. IL PRIORATO, Upon the site of the Temple of The Bona dea, and where according to some accounts Remus took up his position to con- RAMBLE IV. 129 suit the flight of birds. On the, right in entering is the Tomb ot Bishop Spmelli, an antique sarcophagus, representing Mi nerva and the Muses. Tho church contains several tombs of the Knights of Malta to whom it belonged; and who still exist and hold property m Rome, their encampment being in the Via Condotti. Amongst others one to Brother Bartholomew Caraffa, Grand Master, died 1450. RUINS The Aqueduct of Trajan, in a vineyard near Sta Prisca, the view looking over tho Palatine and city is greatly admired. In the vineyard of Prince Torloiiia the grand remains of the wall Of the Latins. The cliff has been scarped to the depth of 60ft and a ter race made on the ledge on which the wall stands, consisting of blocks of tufa. It was originally 12ft thick, and in one part has been altered and arches introduced, it is supposed for ca tapults. The back of this part of. the wall is a mass of con crete backing. At the foot of the wall was a trench, afterwards filled up , in which deep, wells have been made in Trajan's time, in connection with tho Thermae of his cousin Sura, which occupied this part of the hill. Under the hill of S. Saba are traces of another early fortification formed of masses of con crete , originally faced with large blocks of tufa. This was probably the arx of the Aventine when it was a seperate fortress before the seven hills were enclosed by the aggers of Servius Tullius. At the foot of Sta Saba, is a large stone quarry , which is intersected in all directions by Aqueducts; some of them being cut out of the solid tufa, others build in passages cut through the tufa. Some being blocked up with mud deposit, others with, stalactite, some running for a considerable distance, others being broken in, in extracting the tufa, presenting altogether a curious and interesting study. NOTES 130 RAMBLES IN ROME NOTES RAMBLE V. Piazza di Spagna — Trevi Fountain — Monte Cavallo — The Quirinal Palace — The Rospigliosi Palace — Colon na ' Gardens and Palace — Torre delle Milizie — The Church of St. Pudehs — Basilica of Sta Maria Mag- giore — Church of St Martino — Gardens of Mecaenas —¦ Arch of Gallienus — Nymphceum of Alexander Severus — Tomb of Meccenas — S. Bibiana — Porta St. Lorenzo — Church of St. Lorenzo — Pantheon of Minerva Medi- ca: — Porta Maggiore — Baker's Tomb — The Sesso- rium' Palace — Sta Croce in Gerusalemme — The Am phitheatre — Scala Santa — St. John Lateran — The Baptistery — The Lateran Museum and Gallery — Villa Wolkonsky — The Basilica of St. Clemente — The Gol den House of Nero and The Baths of Titus. PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. StartinKjEsm this piazza, the principal objects are the fountain La Baeca*ccia, by Bernini, at the foot of the Spanish. stairs. It is here that the models and flower girls most do congregate. The column of the Immaculate Conception, found in the Cam po Marzp, is supported by statues of Moses, David, Isaiah, and Ezekiel -,- its summit is crowned by a statue of the Virgin , in bronze, designed by Poletti. Beyond is the Collegio di Propa ganda Fide, founded in 1662 by Gregory XV.- Taking the street on the right of the Propaganda. VIAS PROPAGANDA 132 RAMBLES IN ROME and S. ANDREA DELLE FRATTE then the VIA DEL BU-X FALO on the "right, turning into the VIA POLI on the left, brings us to ' THE FOUNTAIN OF TREVI, which draws its precious water from a source far beyond the walls, whence it flows hitherward through old subterranean aqueducts, and sparkles forth as puro as the virgin who first led Agrippa. to its well-spring, by her father's door. It is a great palace front, with niches and many bas-reliefs, out of which looks Agrippa's legendary virgin , and several of the allegoric sisterhood ; while at its base appears _ Neptune with his floundering steeds , and tritons blowing their horns , and other artificial fantasies. At the foot of the palatial facade , is strewn, with careful art and ordered irregularity , a broad and broken heap of massive rock. Over the central precipice the water falls in a semicircular cascade; and from a hundred crevices, on all sides, snowy jets gush up, and streams spout out of the mouths and nostrils of stone monsters, while other rivulets that had run wild, come leaping from one rudo step to another, over stones that are mossy , and ferns planted by nature. Finally, the water, tumbling, sparkling, and dashing, with never-ceasing murmer , pours itself into a great marble- brimmed reservoir. The tradition is, that by taking a parting draught , and throwing a sou in , the traveller will return to Rome , whatever obstacles seem to beset his path. Such is Hawthorn's description of this beautiful fountain. The VIA DI S. VINCENZO leads us into the VIA DELLA DATARIA, which latter brings us to the square of MONTE CAVALLO. _ In the centre is a fountain with granite basin and two beau tiful colossal horse tamers in marble. The latin inscriptions state one of these colossi to be the work of Phidias, the other of Praxiteles; presented to Nero by Tiridates king of Armenia, they formerly ornamented the baths of Constantine, and have never been buried. The whole is surmonted by an Egyptian obelisk found near the Mausoleum of Augustus. On the left is the King's QUIRINAL PALACE. It numbers some splendid apartmonts, containing many works of art, and the gardens are of considerable extent, as it is the RAMBLE V " 133 residence of the King and Prince Humbert; it is not now ac cessible to the public; but should the royal family be away, it is readily shown on presenting your card at the entrance. Guido Reni's beautiful picture of the Annunciation is in the small private chapel, as also the frescoes of the life of the Virgin byAlbani. The casino in the gardens is decorated with frescos by Oritonti, Battoni, and Paolini. It was founded by Gregory the 13th in the year 1574 and completed by Clement the 10th, several intermediate Popes having done much for its extension and embellishment, notably Clement the 8th. Urban the 8th enclosed and added the present garden, and Gregory the 16th and Pius the 9th made the palace what it is, that is to say one of the most sumptuous and attractive palaces in Italy. Few of our readers will require to be informed that the Qui rinal was the place appointed for the Conclave when the new Pope was elected, and that the name of the last successor of St. Peter was proclaimed from the balcony overhanging the principal entrance. On the left, beyond the fountain, within the high vjall, is the ROSPIGLIOSI PALACE, open on Wednesday and Saturday from 9 till 3. It is ce lebrated for its casino, containing Guido Reni's Aurora; it also contains many pictures, ancient sculptures, and fragments of frescoes from the baths of Constantine, on a portion of which site it is built. The principal paintings in the palace are, our Saviour bearing the Cross, by Daniel di Volterra, Head of Goliath by Dome nichino, Perseus rescuing Andromeda by Guido Reni. Opposite is the entrance to THE COLONNA GARDENS. They contain several antiques and remains of the cornice of Aurelian's Temple of the Sun. Looking down a chasm , we see remains of the baths of Constantine; under the cypress trees are several sarcophagi, and the stem of the pine tree planted on the day Rienzi died. The entrance to THE COLONNA PALACE is in the Piazza SS. Apostoli. Open every day, from 11 till 3. The pictures have the names of the artists on them, 134 RAMBLES IN ROME The collection consists of Colonna portraits, three rooms of ta pestries and some ancient draped statues, and a pretty statue of a dancing girl, '¦ Niobe. " Passing down the VIA DEL QUIRINALE , a brick tower which is seen from many parts of Rome attracts our attention. TORRE DELLE MILIZIE within the precincts of the Convent of S. Catherina di Sienna, supposed to have been built upon a cellce formerly occupied by Trajan's soldiers. This Tower is called by the Roman Valets de Place " Nero's Tower, " from his having sat there and fid dled whilst Rome was burning. Now, as this Tower was built in 1210 by Pandulfo della Suburra the senator. It could not have been the Tower Nero fiddled on. Besides Suetonius says " This fire, lie (N"ero) behold from a tovver in the house of Mecsenas " which was on the Esqueline and afterwards used in building the Golden House. The VIAS MAGNANAPOLI and PANISPERNA lead to the VIA PRUDENZIANA in which is THE CHURCH OF St PUDENS. Pudens was an official under Claudius and Nero and a Chri stian. The church of St Pudentiana his daughter is supposed to have been in upon an ancient edifice, the baths of Novitus, a considerable quantity of the ancient tesselated pavement, forms the flooring of the aisles. In A. D. 50 The Romans under Claudius defeated the Bri tons under Caractacus, who with his wife and daughter - were led prisoners to Rome. His daughter Gladys (Claudia) became the wife of the Senator Pudens, they both becoming Christians. Linus, Caractacus' second son was the first bishop of Rome, ordained by Paul. There is no doubt that Paul during his second captivity in Rome lodged in the house of Pudens his half brother. From Cyllinus the eldest son of Caractacus descended Con stantine the Great, born , bred and proclaimed Emperor in Britain. Thus tho first Bishop of Rome and the first Chri stian Emperor were undoubtedly Britons of Royal British blood. The Romish tradition is, that St Peter was received into their house and baptised them. In the chapel of St Peter is pre served a wooden table which they say was the altar used bv St Peter. RAMBLE V. 135 Pudens was sometime govenor of the southern province of Britain and at Goodwood park is preserved an inscription, found at Chichester, which records a grant of land for building a Temple to Neptune and Minerva by Pudens. Considerable remains of the Baths can be seen under the church excavated by Mr. J. H. Parker C. B. A well is shown down which they say were thrown the relics of the martyrs. There is a beautiful mosaic representing our Saviour on a throne, with four of the Apostles on each side with Prudentia and Praxedes behind, it is of the 4th century. The church was restored by Hadrian I in the 8th century, also by Grego ry VII and Innocent II and by Cardinal Gaetani in 1597. The present restoration, is by Cardinal Buonaparte. It is only open at a very early hour, and on May 19th, and tho second Tuesday in Lent. Continuing our ramble before us, on the Esquiline Hill, is THE CHURCH OF ST. MARIA MAGGIORE, and in the foreground an Egyptian obelisk 63 feet high. The church was founded A. D. 352, and it is 120 yards long by 50 wide ; its columns are of the Ionic and Corinthian order. The interior is of three aisles, and has 36 Ionian columns of white marble. The high altar is formed of a large urn of por phyry, covered by a slab of marble , which is supported by four angels in gilt bronze. The canopy, erected by Benedict XIV., is supported by four columns of porphyry, surrounded by gilt palms. The four angels in marble were sculptured by P. Bracci. Under the high altar is the beautiful Confession, done by Ve- spignani, by order of Pius IX., in 1863 , in which is preser ved the relic of the cradle of the Saviour, and the bodies of St. Mathias and other saints. Here the present Pope is to be buried. The fresco is by Podesti. It contains several beauti ful statues, monuments, chapels, mosaics, and paintings. The mosaic pictures over the arches on each side are of the fifth century, a long series of pannels of Scripture subjects, the historical books of the old Testament. The arch of Triumph over the altar is of the same period. These on the vault of the tribune are of the thirteenth. On the loggia over the entrance is another very fine mesaic pic ture of the fourteenth. On the left of the high Altar is the BORGHESE CHAPEL. The altar piece is of jasper the painting of the Virgin and child said to be by St Luke, above which is the bronze bas- 136 RAMBLES IN ROME relief representing the miracle of 'the snow which fell in _ Au gust A. D. 352 upon the exact space occupied by the Basilica. The frescoes are by Guido, Lanfranco, Arpino, and Cigoli. The monuments of Paul V and Clement VIII are composed of beautiful bas-reliefs, representing scenes in their lives. Opposite is the SIXTINE CHAPEL. Containing the tomb of, and erected by Sextus V. It has been lately restored by Pius IX who is to have his temporary- resting place here, behind the altar. The Altar is a represen tation of the Tomb of our Saviour at Jerusalem and is a splendid piece of workmanship. Beneath it, is preserved part of the manger. Opposite the lower altar is a statue of St. Gaetano by Bernini. The frescoes of the dome representing the hosts of heaven are beautifully executed. The monument to Sextus V is by Valsoldo, that to Paul V by L. de Sarzana, the bas-reliefs represent historical subjects of the two pontificates. Leaving the church by the opposite end to which we entered, we find ourselves in the piazza, which contains a handsome column, taken from the Basilica of Constantine by Paul V.; it is surmounted by a figure in bronze representing the Virgin. The column is 47 feet high without the base and capital. In the VIA S. EUSEBIO the cross on a pedestal formed by a re versed cannon, bearing the motto " In hoc signo vinces " is a memorial of Pope Clement Eight's absolution of Henry IV of France. Going down the VIA MERULANA, on our right, a lane leads to the CHURCH OF S. MARTINO. Erected by Symmachus A. D. 500 on the site of the church of S. Silvester in the time of Constantine. The nave is formed by 24 ancient columns said to have come from Hadrian's Villa. The Confession beneath the high altar leads to the more ancient church formed out of part of the baths of Trajan. It was here that the councils of A. D. 352-6 were held when the acts of the council of Nicea were condemned and burnt. The land scape frescoes in the upper church are by the brothers Poussin. From here we can best visit the SETTE SALE, from a lane opposite the church, see page 85. Returning to the Via Merulana a short ivay down to the left of the road were RAMBLE V. I 37 THE GARDENS OF MECAENAS; . "Which we learn from various ancient authors were situated on the Esquiline, Horace speaking of them says " Now it is possible to live on the Esquiline , for it is a healthy spot , especially to wander on the sunny Agger. " Suetonius, speaking of the great Are of Nero's time " This fire he (Nero) beheld from a tower in the house of Mecaenas on the Esquiline. " " Here was a common burying-place for wretched paupers " Horace. Hence it must have Deen outside the wall or Agger of Servius Tullus, remains of this have been found on the left-hand side of the road leading from S. Maria Maggiore to S. Giovanni in La- terano, close to this part, and inside the Agger a chamber has been excavated , evidently the auditorium or lecture hall of Mecaenas, the entrance being formed through the Agger. It is 24 met. 40 c. long by 10 met. 60 c. broad. The wall, supporting the roof, in which was the window, is nearly 8 met. high. On each side of the hall the walls contain six niches decorated in the Pompeian style. At the further end of the hall is a sort of tribune composed of seven circular steps, or tiers of seats , once faced with marble, in the circular wall behind these, which forms the end of the hall, are five more niches. The floor is below the surrounding level, probably to keep the building cool during the summer months. Its height was about 40 feet. It may be, that in this auditorium Virgil read his Georgics to Mecaenas, as ho says " I sing, Mecaenas, and I sing to thee. " " 0 thou! the better part of my renown, Inspire thy Poet, and thy Poem crown : " Without thee nothing lofty can I sing. " Or Horace, his odes recited to Mecaenas' praise " You that are both my. shield and glory dear ". N. B. Owing to the new quarter of Rome being built here the roads are very much cut up and changed in this neigh bourhood. Retracing our steps towards the basilica, turning to the right up the Nik S, VITO, brings us to the ARCH of GALLIENUS. erected in 262. in honour of the Emperor, by Marcus Aurelius Victor. It is plain and unadorned , and only the central arch 138 RAMBLES IN ROME is preserved. Passing under the arch , at the corner where the VIA PORTA MAGGIORE diverges from the VIA S. BI BIANA, are the ruins of a reservoir. THE NYMPHAEUM of Alexander-Severus, called the trophies of Marius. It derivies this appellation from the marble trophies, formerly placed in the two side niches, and thence transferred to the parapet of the flight of steps leading up to the Capitol. This splendidly decorated reservoir was the nymphseum of the Emperor Ale xander Severus. A portion of the aqueduct which supplied the water is still standing. Just beyond. TOMB OF MECAENAS consisting of a sepulchre of rubble work in a circular form, now surmounted by a cottage. Horace was buried near by, Suetonius telling us " He was interred and lies buried on the skirts of the Esquiline Hill, near the Tomb of Mecaenas ". At the bottom of the VIA BIBIANA is the CHURCH of Sta BIBIANA Built in commemoration of her martyrdom. She was first scourged and then stoned to death at the early age of 18 during the Prefecture of Apronianus. The Church contains eight an tique columns and frescoes from the Saint's life by Cortona and Ciampelli. Her statue at the high-altar is the work of Berni ni, and is considered to be his master-piece. The fete of Santa Bibiana is the " St. Swithen's day of the Romans, who have a saying that if it rains on this day it will continue to do so for the n&xt forty. " We are not superstitious but we cannot help wishing, that the Saint will smile upon us. The church of Santa Bibiana was built in the 5th century on the site of the house where the virgin-martyr is believed to have lived. It was in a great measure rebuilt by Pope Urban the 7th. It is only open on the Friday after the 4th Sunday in Lent and on the 2nd of December, the anniversary of the saint, Passing by the church, the lane leads us to the PORTA St. LORENZO built by Honorius in 402 , in the arch over which the three aqueducts, Marcia, Tepula and Julia passed. It is a very old picturesque gate, and spans the road that leads to Tivoli. RAMBLE V. 139 The inscriptions are one of Augustus B. 0. 3: tho other of Caracalla A. D. 212: having reference to their repairs. Three quarters of a mile on the road is the CHURCH of St. LORENZO founded in 380 , by Constantine , in the place where was the cemetery of St. Cyriaca, which contained the body of St. Lo renzo. It was enlarged and restored in different periods; finally in 1864 Pius IX caused the architect Vospignani to make great improvements, and it was then that the column of red granite with tho statue of the martyr was placed in the adjacent square. Under the colonnade, supported by six Ionic columns, and ad orned with frescoes, are two sarcophagi with bas reliefs; also some curious frescoes relating to the soul of the Saxon count Henry. The interior is divided into three aisles by twenty-two columns, the greater part in Oriental granite. The paving recalls the style of the Basilicas of the primitive times. The great aisle was painted, by order of Pius IX, by Cesare Fracassini; in it are two pulpits of marble. A double staircase of marble conducts to that part of the Basilica Constantaniana, which by Hono rius III, was converted into tho presbytery. It is decorated at the upper end by twelve columns of violet marble, which rise from the level of the primitive basilica which is beneath it. At the end is the ancient pontifical seat, adorned with mosaic and precious marbles. Tho papal altar is under a canopy in the Byzantine style. The pavement of the presbytery is worthy of attention. Descending to the confessional, which is under the high altar, we find the tomb of the martyred Saints, Law rence, Stephen, and Justin. Returning to the church by the staircase on the left, we enter the sacristy, where is the altar of the Holy Sacrament, with a picture by E. Savonanzio, re presenting S. Cyriaca, who is having the martyrs buried. Close by is the' Roman cemetery, opened in 1834; the frescoes here are worth seeing, as well as the different monuments. Re-entering the city, we turn sharp to the left at the gate, skirting under the walls, and on our right is the PANTHEON of MINERVA MEDICA so called from a statue of that goddess discovered here. It is a circular building 80ft in diameter and its walls contain nu merous niches for statues; it was surmounted by a lofty cu pola, which fell in a short time back. Crossing the railway by the lane we reach the 140 RAMBLES IN ROME PORTA MAGGIORE. Here the Via Praenestina diverged from the Labicana; and Claudius who was obliged to convey two new streams, the Acqua Claudia and the Anio Novus, over these roads, erected for this purpose a massive reservoir, which spanned both roads at once with a double arch. This is the splendid monument afterwards taken into the Aureliau wall, and converted, by the erection of a mound in front , into a kind of bulwark , in the time of Honorius and Arcadius. It now forms one of the city gates, under the name of the Porta Maggiore. In each of the three piers supporting the attics with the channels concealed in its interior, is a small gateway, oyer which a window, with a gable roof resting on rustic pillars , is introduced. By this arrangement, not only is a saving of materials effected, but the six construction arches, thus acquired, impart a greater degree of stability to the structure. The first inscription on the reservoir of Claudius mentions the streams conveyed into the city, by the Emperor, upon these arches. From it we learn that the water in the channel which bore his name was taken from two sources, the Caeruleus and Curtius, forty-five miles off; and that the Novus Anio, which flows above the Acqua Claudia, was brought hither from a di stance of seventy-two miles. The second, relates to the restorations of Vespasian. The third to those of Titus. COLUMBARIA Just inside the gate a Columbaria has been discovered dating from the time of the late republic to that of the Antonines ; but till it has been entirely cleared out it is impossible to give a description of it; many inscriptions , lamps , coins , jewellery and glass bottles have been found also some interesting frescoes. See RECENT DISCOVERES in Forbes' Tourist's Directory. _ Directly in front of the middle pier of the Porta Maggiore lies a monument, discovered in the year 1838, on the removal of the mound referred to, it is THE BAKER'S TOMB. The man who erected his own monument on this spot, was a baker, who seems to have made a considerable fortune as a purveyor. According to the good old custom, he was not ashamed RAMBLE V. 141 of his calling, but built a species of trophy for himself out of the utensils of the trade by means of which he had attained to wealth and respectability. The hollow drums of pillars, for instance, let into the superstructure . which rests upon double columus, seem to represent vessels for measuring fruit; and the inscription found beside them agrees with this opinion; as it states that the mortal remains of Atistia, the wife of Eurysa- ces, were deposited in a bread-basket; in fact everything was represented that appertained to a baker's trade. This is rendered the more interesting from the circumstance of several of these representations seeming to belong to the present time; people in this sphere in Italy usually adhering to tho customs transmitted to them by their forefathers. The inscription on the architrave, stating this monument to be that of M. Virgilius Eurysaces, purveyor of bread, is repeated three times. To the North of the Tomb the three old Aqueducts; Marcia, Tepula, and Julia, can be seen passing through the walls of Rome. Continuing our ramble under the inner side of the walls in the vegetable garden to the left of the church of St. Croce, are the remains of an extensive building, supposed to have been THE SESSORIUM PALACE It is called by some the Temple of Venus and Cdpid, from a statue found there. A Venus with Cupid at her feet, suppos ed to be the likeness of Salustia Barbia Orbiana, the wife of Alexander Severus, from an inscription on the pedistal, saying that it was dedicated to Venus by one, Salustia. The Sessorium palace was built by the family of Varius, this was afterwads turned into the Palace of Helena near which were her baths remains of which exist in the adjoining vineyards also the reservoir. We now arrive at the church of Sta CROCE IN GERUSALEMME, erected by St. Helena. The interior has three aisles divided by pilasters, and with eight columns of Egyptian granite. The high altar is adorned by four columns of breccia corallma, which support the canopy. Under the altar is an ancient urn, which contains the bodies of the holy martyrs, Anastasio and Cesario. The frescoes of the vault of the tribune are by Pin- turicchio. The subterranean chapel of S. Helena is decorated 142 RAMBLES IN ROME with paintings by Pomarancio, and with mosaics by B. Pe- ruzzi. At the side of the church is the AMPHITHEATRUM CASTRENSE. Amphitheatre of the Camp, of the time of Tiberius, incor porated by Aurelian into his wall. It is of beautiful brick work the columns of the Corinthian order are best seen from outside the wall. It was built near the camp that the soldiers might have their games without going into the city and mixing with the people. Proceeding under the white mulberry-trees, up the open, in front of St. John's, on our left is the PORTA SAN GIO VANNI opening on to the Via Nova Appia, and near by the walled-up ancient PORTA ASINaRIA, through which Beli- sarius entered Rome, and which the Isaurian guard betrayed to Totila. Dec 17. 546 The open we are now rambling over was anciently called the Mirror; on the right is the end wall of the dining-hall of the ancient Palace of the Lateran, on which is a copy of an ancient mosaic of the time of Leo III. In a building behind this is the SCALA SANTA said to have been brought from Jerusalem , (where it formed the stairs to Pilate's house), by the mother of Constantine. By ascending these stairs on the knees a thousand years indul gence is secured to those who believe it. Dickens said the sight was ridiculous in the absurd incidents inseparable from it; to see one man with an umbrella unlawfully hoist himself with it, from stair to stair, and a demure old lady of fifty-five, looking back, every now and then, to assure herself that her legs were properly disposed. On the feast of the Assumption the sacred picture " Ocheirotopeton " is exposed to view; this picture is said to have been drawn in outline by St. Luke, and, before he commenced to fill the colours in, it was found fini shed by invisible hands. From the front of the church a char ming prospect of the Campagna is obtained. ST. GIOVANNI IN LATERANO. It was founded by Constantine, and took the name of La teran from its occupying the site of the Palace of Plautins Lateranus, the senator, who suffered under Nero. After having existed for ten centuries, it was almost entirely destroyed by - RAMBLE V. 143 fire in 1308. Rebuilt by Clement V., and embellished by other popes ; Clement XII., had the facade executed from the design of Galilei. It is of travertine , with four large columns and six pilasters of the composite order, which support a cornice surmounted by a balustrade, on which are placed colossal sta tues of Jesus and several saints. Between the columns and the pilasters, there are five balconies; that in the middle was used for the papal benedictions. Beneath the balconies are as many entrances, which lead into the magnificent covered portico (log- giato), decorated with twenty-four pilasters of the composite order, in which is placed the colossal statue of Constantine, found in his baths. The interior is divided into a nave and two aisles, by four ranges of pilasters. The architect was Borromini, who covered the ancient columns, which divides the middle aisle from the side ones, with pilasters, forming five arches corresponding to an equal number of chapels. Each of these pilasters is deco rated, on the side of the middle aisle, by two fluted pilasters, supporting a cornice which goes round the church. Between these there are twelve niches, each ornamented by two columns of verd antique, containing the statues of the Apostles. The Corsini chapel is one of the richest in Rome; it was executed by Clement XII from the design of Galilei, in honour of St. Andrew Corsini. The subterranean chapel contains tho re mains- of the Corsini family. On the altar is the beautiful statue " Piety, " said to be by Bernini or Montanti. This splendid church contains many chapels, decorated with paintings and statues worthy of attentiou. The Gothic Tabernacle above the high altar, containing the heads of Paul and John, is a fine piece of workmanship of the 14 th century, restored by Pius IX. In front of the Con fession is a bronze tomb of Martin V. The mosaics of the Tri bune are of 1292 Representing Christ with the four rivers of Paradise below, on each side the Virgin and Saints. The fur ther transept contains the altar of the Sacrament by Paolo Olivieri, the four gilt bronze columns being from the temple . of Jupiter Capitolinus. The Cloisters of the 12th century are interesting and con tain many curious architectural remains. Passing out into the piazza, the tall Egyptian obelisk at tracts our attention; 109 feet high without the base and pe destal, one solid piece of red granite covered with hierogly phics, erected in Thebes by King Ramyeses, 3,000 years ago, and brought up the Tiber, and erected in the Circus Maximus by Julian, and transported in 1588 by Sextus V. to its present locus standi. 144 RAMBLES IN ROME THE BAPTISTERY. Said to have been erected by Constantine. Eight Columns of porphry support a cornice upon which are eight smaller co lumns these sustain the cupola. The font is of green basalt. The mosaics are of the fifth century after the arabesque paint ings in the baths of Titus. A tradition says Constantine was baptised here, though Socrates says he received Christian bap^ tism at Nicomedia just before his death. The two side chapels', are dedicated respectively to John the Baptist and John the Evangelist, said to have been made out of the house of Con stantine. Gibbon says Rienzi bathed in the font on the night before he was made a Knight. Adjoining is the oratory of St Venantius in which is a mosaic of the 7th century, our Sa viour in the act of giving his blessing. Two grand porphry columns supporting an entablature formed the portico of the baptistery. THE LATERAN PALACE. From the time of Constantine to 1377 this was the palace of the Popes. In 1843 Gregory XVI founded the Museum. The original Palace was destroyed by fire in the time of Clement V. and the present pile was built from the designs of Fontana in the pontificate of Sixtus V. It was subsequently used for many years as an hospital. In leaving the basilica, on our right is the entrance to THE LATERAN MUSEUM. Ring the bell on the right in the passage, if the custodian is not at the door. The custodian will conduct you over, if desired, and he can give a good account of the objects of interest. It is open every day from 9 till 4, and is com prised in sixteen rooms. Fee y2 fr. each. The principal objects are as follows : Room 1 . ^— Bas-reliefs — procession of lictors and senators, with figure of Trajan found in his Forum. Dares and Entel- lus boxers, a fragment found near the arch of Gallienus. Part of a sarcophagus with the liistory of Mars and Rhaea Syl via, Diana and Endymion. A Circus race. Helen and Paris. Soldier and Wife Parting. Loucothea feadihg the infant Bac chus, Bust of Marcus Aurelius. Pavement mosaic of Boxers- from baths of Caracalla. Room 2. —Portions brought from the Forum of Trajan. Re presenting Arabesques, children, chimeras, griffins. RAMBLE V. 145 Room 3. — Faun of Praxiteles copy. Bust of the young Ti berius. Bas-reliefs Medea and Pelias's daughters. Statue of Mars. Germanicus. Sepulchral cippi and Bas-reliefs found on the Via Appia. Room 5. -Stag in grey marble. A Cow. Mithraic group. Mutilated figure on a lynx. Bust of Scipio. An Altar with bas-reliefs, one representing Cock-fighting. Room 6. — Statues of Members of the family of Augustus found at Cervetre 1839. Drusus Agrippina, the elder , Livia, mil figures. Tiberius and Claudius, sitting, Germanicus and Britanmcus, in armour, Head of Augustus. A bas-relief of an altar. Recumbent statue of Silenus. Inscriptions to the Mem bers of the family. Room 7. —Statue of Sophocles. A Dancing faun. Female draped figure. Apollino. Sepulchral inscription from the Co lumbaria of the Vigna Codini (seepage 93) to Musicus Scu- ranus, from Lyons a tourist to Rome who died there, with the names of the persons of his suite. Room 8. — Statue of Neptune. Curious Bas-relief, a man, sur rounded with Masks. Cupid and Mars. Room 9. — Fragments from the Forum. Room 10. — Bas-reliefs from the Tomb of the Aterii. Re presenting a Temple with a crane, moved by a tread-wheel, for hoisting stones. Several monuments in Rome, The arch of Ti tus, one to Isis. A Corinthian Temple. Room 11. — Bas-reliefs of boxers. Diana Multimainmaea. Room 12. — Three large Sarcophagi. Niobe and her chil dren. Orestes and the Furies. Festoons and Masks. Room 13. — Busts of the Furia family found on the Via Appia. Statue by Dogmatius. Alto-relief of Ulpia Epigoni. Captive Barbarian, unfinished, with the points still in. Casts of So phocles and .ZEschines. Room 14. — Two Pavonazzetto columms bearing the names of Lucius Verus and Publius Balbinus A. D. 137. Room 16. — Fragments found at Ostia. Mosaic of Silenus and his dog. Sepulchral Urus, recumbent statue of Atys, lea den water pipes, syphon in terra cotta. THE CHRISTIAN MUSEUM. Entrance to the right in the court; fee half a franc : Founded by Pius IX.. and composed of Christian _ antiqui ties. There are many bas-reliefs, fragments, inscriptions, mo saics, etc., worthy of admiration. THE CORRIDOR is decorated with Christian inscriptions from the Catacombs. The oldest is A. D. 71 they relate to 10 146 RAMBLES IN ROME persons, dogmas, rites, and ranks of the clergy, of the early christians. From the end of the corridor oh the left three rooms open out, ornamented with copies of frescoes found in the Catacombs. Frescoes cut from the walls of the church of St Agnese fuori le mura. Paintings of Prophets and birds from the crypt of the Church of S. Nicolo in Carcere. , At the right hand end of the Corridor is the entrance to the LONG HALL. Sitting statue of St Hippolitus found near S. Lorenzo fuori le mura. On the chair is the Paschal Calen der in Greek composed A. D. 223. And a list of Hippolitus's writings. Descending the stairs, bas-relief of Elijah ascending to hea ven. This hall is decorated with a number of sarcophagi of the early christians found in the early churches and catacombs. They are placed so as to illustrate now the tombs were situa ted in the vestibules of the churches. HALL OF MOSAICS the gallery to view it is entered by a flight of stairs from one of the picture rooms. This beautiful mosaic was found in the baths of Caracalla and represents full-length figures and busts of boxers each oc cupying a seperate pannel, some having the names upon them. The walls are decorated with scenes from the life of Constan tine Great. Passing on to the PICTURE GALLERY, which is composed of nine rooms, containing many beautiful works of art, amongst others : Stoning of St. Stephen by Giulio Romano; Christ and St. Thomas by Camuccini; Annunciation by Arpino ; George the Fourth of Great Britain and Ireland, by Lawrence ; Madonna and Saints by Carlo Crivelli ; Sixtus II. as Cardinal by Sassoforrato; Madonna by Carlo Crivelli ; Christ with the Tribute Money by Caravaggio ; Holy Family by An drea del Sarto ; Baptism of Christ by Caesar da Sesto ; St. Je rome by Sanzio; Raphael's Father; Christ at Emmaus by Ca ravaggio. Busts and reliefs representing North American In dian life by Pettrich. Proceeding down the lane to the left in facing the Scala Santa, we reach the RAMBLE V. 147 VILLA VOLKONSKY, open on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Permission to be had at the Russian Consulate Piazza Feoli Corso. The grounds are tastefully laid out, and are intersected by the Acqua Claudia ; from the roof of the Casino, to which the gardener will conduct you, fee half a franc, a beautiful sun-set view may be enjoyed, looking far away over the Campagna. Proceeding down the hill towards the Colosseum, VIA DI ST GIOVANNI IN LATERANO. nearly at the bottom on the right is the CHURCH OF ST. CLEMENTE. Belonging to the Irish Dominicans, of which the Rev. Fa ther Mullooly is Prior, and to whose instrumentality we are indebted for tho discovery of the ancient church and the Tem ple of Mithra beneath it, under the present edifice; and on some occasions, (November 23rd; February 2nd, the 2nd Monday in Lent) they are illuminated. Father Mullooly has written a book on his discoveries; it can be purchased of the sacristan, and will be found very interesting. The excavations have been carried out by voluntary subscrip tions, and visitors are expected to make a donation in furthe rance of this object; a book for the names and amounts will be found in the Sacristy. UPPER CHURCH. The usual entrance from the stre -t is by a side door , but the proper entrance is by a gate with a Gothic canopy of the 13th century, which originally formed part of the earlier ba silica, thence, through the Atrium and Quadriporticus the only perfect ones of Rome. The aisles are formed by 16 ancient pillars of different materials and orders, in the middle of the nave is the choir . brought from the earlier basilica ; on each side are the Ambones ; the walls are adorned with christian emblems and a monogram of Pope John II. This is separated from the high altar, by an ancient marble screen. Behind is - the Presbytery which contains an ancient Episcopal chair with the name of Anastasius, who was titular cardinal of the church in 1108, engraved upon it. Upon the vault is a mosaic ol 1297 Representing Christ on the cross from the foot of whicn issue the four rivers of Palestine, with shepherds and their flocks, and peacocks. On the face of the arch is a mosaic of the time of Paschal II. Our Savour on either side two an- 148 RAMBLES IN ROME gels and the emblems of the four Evangelists ; below are St. Peter, Clement, Jeremiah, St. Paul, Lawrence, and Isaiah; at the bottom Bethlehem and Jerusalem, with the mystic lamb and sheep. In the chapel on the right the statue of St John is by Simone ; on the left the Picture of the Virgin is by Conca. The monument composed of two half-columns, with basket work capitals and foliage reliefs, is to Cardinal Venerio who died 1479. To the right on entering, in the chapel of the Passion, are the interesting frescoes by Massaccio, (much spoilt by re storation,) representing the crucifixion etc.; and events from the lives of SS. Clement and Catherine; outside the arch, The An nunciation, and St. Christopher carrying the infant Christ over a stream, within, St. Catherine forced to Idolatry, Instruction of the King's daughter in prison, Dispute with the Doctors , Miracle of her deliverance, Martyrdom. Opposite, is the History of St. Clement. Proceeding into the Sacristy, which is ador ned with paintings of various interesting parts of the more ancient buildings, a wide stair conducts to the LOWER CHURCH founded on the site of St Clement's house it is supposed in the , time of Constantine. St Jerome says " the church built to St Clement keeps the memory of his name to this day. " So that it must have been erected before A. D. 400. An inscription found in the excavations bearing the name of Pope Nicholas II, shows that this .basilica was perfect in 1061, when Nicholas died; so that it could not have been de stroyed, as some think, by the earthquake of 896; but was ruined in 1084 when Robert Guiscard burnt all the public buildings from the Lateran to the Capitol, when he came to the rescue of Pope 'Gregory VII. The ruin seems to have been purposely filled in by the builders of the upper Church, and all the fittings possible removed into it, which from the nature of its walls was evidently built in haste; and before 1099 as Paschal II was elected pope there; on August 13th of that year. The lower church was discovered in 1857, when Father Mullooly was making some repairs in the church above. It consists of a nave and two aisles formed by a line of ancient columns of various marbles, the space between each column has been built up to support the foun dations of tbe church above. In descending, the walls are covered with ancient fragments,- and a small statue of the Good Pastor found in making the excavations; as also the two sarcophagus and other fragments in the Narthex of the ancient basilica. At the entrance on the RAMBLE V. 149 left hand, is a painting of an ancient female figure, and a male head on the opposite -wall, a little further on the left Christ sur rounded with saints giving his benediction in the Greek manner; opposite, the miracle at the tomb of St. Clemente at Cherson,* " THE ANGEL IS PREPARING THAT TOMB SUBMERGED IN THK SEA. " " BEHOLD UNHURT HE LIES WHOM HIS RETURNING MOTHER SEEKS AGAIN " Portrait of St Clement " IN THE NAME OF THE LORD, I BENO DERAPIZA, FOR THE LOVE OF BLESS- SEEKING ME IN PR\YER ED CLEMENT AND THE BEWARE OF HURTFUL THINGS. " SALVATION OF MY SOUL , HAD IT PAINTED. " further along, translation of the relics of St. Clement from the Vatican to this basilica: " FOR ALL AGES : MAY THE PEACE OF THE LORD BE EVER WITH YOU. " " © HITHER FROM THE VATICAN IS BORNE (NICHOLAS BEING POPE) WITH DIVINE HYMNS WHAT WITH AROMATICS HE BURIED " " rB I MARIA MACELLAR1A FOR THE LOVE OF GOD AND REDEMPTION OF MY ¦SOUL HAD IT PAINTED. " Right, North Aisle right hand wall, painting of St. Catherine, further on in a niche, Virgin and child with two females, SS. Catherine and Eup hernia, below Abarham and Isaac; at the top, head of our Lord, Beyond, a Council, the next, above the steps of the tribune, Christ in the act of giving the bene diction ; just beyond aninscription : " WHOEVER READS THESE LETTERS OF MY NAME, LET HIM SAY GOD HAVE MERCY ON UNWORTHY JOHN. " Passing into the Nave in the right hand corner is a fresco of our Savour releasing Adam from Limbo, on the left wall, looking towards the modern altar. (Erected beneath the one in the church above, under which are placed the remains of St. Ignatius- and St. Clement. Behind this a door leads to a spa ce recently excavated were a portion of the first church once covered with marble slabs may be seen). Installation of S. Cle ment by St Peter, Clement performing mass, The miracle of Sisinus, and men drawing a Column; all on one pier: " THE LORD BE WITH YOU. " " THE PEACE OF THE LORD BE EVER WITH YOU. " ' iff I BENO DERAPIZA WITH MARY MY WIFE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD AND BLESSED CLEMENT HAD IT PAINTED FOR A FAVOUR RECEIVED. " * The inscriptions are translated and placed on the page to show their relative positions on the frescoes. 150 RAMBLES IN ROME CARV0NCELLE . ALBERTEL . COSMARIS . SISINIUS " GET BEHIND THE '• ALBERTEL, COS- " FOR THE HARDNESS ^ COLUMN CARVON- MARIS, DRAW IT OF YOUR HEARTS YOU SONS OF CELLE WITH A UP. " DESERVE TO DRAW Pute DRAW LEAVER. " STONES. " 1T UP. On the inside of this pier are S. Antoninus, and Daniel in the lions den. On the same wall higher up. Life, Death and re cognition of S. Alexius; above which our Lord seated, attended by Gabriel, Michael, Clement and Nicholas, holding a book; " STRONG AS THE BONDS OF DEATH. "•THAT IS MY RESIDENCE IN IT " COME UNTO ME ALL YE THAT LABOUR YOU SHALL FIND AN ASYLUM AND ARE HEAVY LADENED; AND I WILL GIVE YOU REST. " " THE FATHER DOES NOT RECOGNIZE WHO ASKS HIS PITY. " The arabesque ornament at the bottom is very beautiful; beyond this at the side of the pier are St. Giles and St. Blasius; at the end of the wall, S. Prosperius, The Maries at the Sepul chre, Christ releasing Adam and Eve from Hades, the supper at Cana, The Crucifixion, and just beyond, The ascension. " MOST HOLY SANCTUS VITUS LORD LEO POPE OF ROME. " " THAT THIS PICTURE MAT OUTSHINE THE REST IN BEAUTY BEHOLD THE PRIEST LEO STUDIED TO COMPOSE IT. " Passing into the South or left aisle on the wall at this end is a painting representing the miracle of S. Libertinus; and one representing " WHERE THE ABBOT BEGS PARDON OF LIBERTINUS. " At the west end of this aisle. Over the stairs are the remains of a painting of the crucifixion of St Peter, and in the right hand corner S. Cyril's parting audience with Michael III, in the opposite corner is a baptism of some barbarian by St. Cyril, beyond which the projecting brickwork marks the site of the tomb of St Cyril. The nave is formed by a line of seven columns in their ori ginal places, in a wall of debris built to support the church above. These columns are of beautiful marbles and stand upon a wall of the imperial period , which has been traced for 98 feet. RAMBLE V. 151 At the west end of the north aisle a flight of narrow steps leads down to a passage 25 in. wide formed between massive walls, that on the right is brick of the Imperial period, forming the wall of St Clement's house; on the left, tufa, of the Kingly period being part of the walls of Servius Tullius; this has been heightened by a travertine wall of the Republican period, the tufa wall has been traced for 500ft and the travertine wall upon it for 410 ft. About 20 ft is still buried, showing how low ancient Rome was in this valley. At the end of this pas sage another flight of steps leads up into the south aisle , in the centre of the passage is an entrance through the imperial wall, (now blocked up on account cf the water), into THE ORATORY OF St. CLEMENT. Reached from the south aisle by a broad flight of twenty steps. The Roman Catholic church has faithfully handed down the tradition that S. Clement erected an oratory in his own house, between the Calian and Esquiline hills. Which must have been built, as we have seen, close to the walls of the city; a not unusual thing as the city grew. Several chambers remain to be excavated at some future time. A long passage has been cleared out in which was found a doorway bricked up; this was bro ken through, and found to be a TEMPLE OF MITHRAS the Persian sun God whose mysteries Plutarch tells us were first brought to Rome by the soldiers of Pompey the Great. " They celebrated certain secret mysteries, among which, those of Mithra continue to this day being originally instituted by them. B. C. 67. " This worship was finaly extirpated in A. D. 394. The temple was found filled up with earth , as though done purposely. It is 30 >< 20 ft and has a vaulted roof, co vered with mosaics, in which is several windows , the conti nual dripping of water has destroyed the colour but the mo saics can still be distinctly seen. The Altar on which the sacrifices were made, was found near the two square pilasters in ¦ the passage outside and a statue of Mithras was found in three pieces. The altar has been placed within the temple, it represents an allegorical picture of the sun's influence upon the Earth : The bull represents the Earth, Mithras is plunging a sword into the bull's right shoulder, the dog and serpent are emblems of animals nourished by the earth through the in-, fiuence of the sun. The scorpion gnawing the scrotum is au- fcurup. bringing decay. The youths with torches erect and de- Vaults of the Baths o- • Remains of columns forming the portico, BATHS OF TITUS AND GOLDEN HOUSE OF NERO. RAMBLE V. 153 pressed on either side represent the rising and setting sun. Under Helogabalus 218-22 and Aurelian 270-5. The worship of the sun was the national religion of the Romans and its votaries tried in vain to establish it to resist the rapid spread . of the worship of the only true God, through Jesus Christ his Son. The VIA LABICANA on the right of St Clemente , leads to NERO'S GOLDEN HOUSE AND BATHS OF TITUS (entrance through a gate on the right; one of the Custodi 'speaks English). (Entrance one lira Sundays free) Built upon the site of the house and gardens of Maecenas, before which it was a burial-ground for slaves. Virgil lived near by- The house and gardens of Maecenas were bequeathed to Augustus, thus by heritage came to Nero. GOLDEN HOUSE OF NERO. " He completed his palace by continuning it from the Pa latine to the Esquiline calling the building at first only " The Passage " but after it was burnt down and rebuilt " The Gol den House " of its dimensions and furniture it may be suffi- cont to say this much : The porch was so high that there stood in it a colossal statue of himself 120 ft in height ; and the space included in it was so ample, that it had triple porticos a_ mile in length, and a lake like a sea, surrounded with buil dings which had the appearance of a city. Within its area were corn fields, vineyards, pastures and woods, containing a vast number of animals of various kinds, both wild and tame In other parts~it was entirely overlaid with gold, and addor- ned with jewels and mother of pearl. The supper rooms were vaulted, and compartments of the ceilings, inlaid with ivory were made to revolve, and scatter flowers; while they contain ed pipes which shed scents upon the guests. The chief ban- quetting room was circular , and revolved perpetually , night and day, in imitation of the motion of the celestial bodies. Upon the dedication of this magnificent house he said in ap proval of it " That he had now a dwelling fit for a man " Suetonius. " Nero dressed like a harper was at the top of a tower in his palace, from whence he diverted himself with the sight of the fire " Dion Cassius. BATHS OF TITUS. Built, out of the remains of the Golden House A. D. 80 , " with great expedition. " " He sometimes made use himself of 154 RAMBLES IN ROME the baths he had erected, without excluding the common peo ple " Suetonius. On the left of the entrance are the remains of the ORATORIO OF S. FELICITA, a Christian church of the 6th century. The rooms on the left of the PASSAGE formed part of the House of Nero, supposed to have been used as pri vate habitations between the time of Nero and Titus. On one of the piers are two snakes, see below. At the end of this pas sage a part of the pavement of the HOUSE OP MAECENAS can be seen. LONG COREIDOR, penetrated into by Raphael and Giovanne da Udine who copied the frescoes for the Vati can. On the Vault are some beautiful Arabesque paintings of flowers, birds and animals and on the walls two snakes with a basin placed between them, above them is an inscription, now almost obliterated, telling us that it was the notice equal- to our commit no nuisance. DVODECI"" DEOS IIT DEANA™. ET IOVESI OPTVMV™ MAXIMV™ HABEAT 1RAT0S QUISQUIS HIC MIXEIUT AUT CACARIT. Retracing our steps down the Corridor, and crossing some chambers we come to the TRICLINIARIUM, or Summer ban queting room, with the winter rooms on each side, having a southern aspect, At the end of this room the Meleagar of the Vatican was found. Beyond this is the CA VADIUM; a open- court or garden, it was surrounded on three sides with co lumns,, in the centre was a fountain ; from whence the sur rounding apartments received their light, it was subsequently occupied by the substruction arches of the baths. Adjoining is the CORRIDOR OP RHEA SILVIA, so called from the fresco representing the conception of Romulus and Remus. In another room is a representation of Venus and the doves. These baths were altered and enlarged by Domitian, Trajan and Hadrian. RAMBLE VI. The Borghese Gallery — St Lorenzo in Lucina — Piazza del Popolo — Villa Borghese — The Pincio — The French Academy — Church of Trinita dei Monti — Piazza Bar berini — Church of the Cappuccini — Barberini Gallery — Villa Ludovisi — Porta Salara — Villa Albani — Villa Torlonia — Church and Catacombs of St Agnese — Sta Costansa — Ponte Nomentana — Mons Sacer — • Tomb of Verginia — Church and Catacomb of S. Alexander — Porta Pia — Flavian Temple — Piazza di Termini — Baths of Diocletian and Church of Sta Maria degli An- geli — The Praetorian Camp. — Temple of Fortunae Primigeniae — Sallust's Villa, N.B. This Ramble is shorter than the others, thus enabling the Tourist to visit the Museum of the Vatican, page 10, which is open from 8 a. m. till 11 or from 2 till 4 p. m. except oh Monday and Thursday afternoons. In returning visit the BORGHESE GALLERY situated in the Piazza Borghese, which is connected with the Corso by the Via Fontanella Borghese. Catalogues for the use of visitors in each room. Open on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, from 10 till 4. The following are the principal objects Of interest: — Raphael as a boy, by himself; Christ and St. Tho mas bv Mazzolino; The Mourners over Jesus, by Garofolo; Ma donna del divino Amore, after Raphael; Portrait of Caesar Bor gia? said to be by Raphael: Holy Family, by Andrea del Sarto; 156 RAMBLES IN ROME Entombment, by Raphael; Holy Family, by Fra Bartolomeo ; - Christ bearing the Cross, by Andrea Solario; Danae by Correg- gio, in the corner are the favorite cupids sharpening an ar row; the Flagellation, by Sebastian del Piombo; Cumaean Sibyl, by Domenichino ; the Four Seasons , by Albani ; the Hunt of Diana, by Domenichino: Sacred and Profane Love, by Titian. Nearly opposite the Palace at the left corner of the Piazza a street leads to the CHURCH OF St. LORENZO IN LUCINA in the small Piazza that opens out on the right going down the Corso , contains the grand work of Guido Reni — " The Crucifixion. " Turning to the left up the Corso we reach the PIAZZA DEL POPOLO , a circular square, adorned with fountains, and surrounded with foliage ; from this circle Rome spreads itself out. The three principal streets— Via Babuino, leading into the Piazza di Spa gna, on the left ; the Corso , leading into the Forum , in the centre , and the Via Ripetta , leading into the oldest part of the present city, on the right. Converging from this spot, and at their corners, are the twin churches Sta Maria in Monte Santo, and Sta Maeia dei Mieacoli, with domes and vesti bules designed by Rinaldi, completed by Bernini and Fortuna. In the centre of the Piazza is an Egyptian obelisk, supported by a fountain with four lionesses at the corners spouting water. It is 80 feet high with the pedestal, or 72 without, and is of red granite, surmounted by a cross; brought to Rome by Au gustus, a. u. c. 753, and erected in the Circus Maximus, whence it was removed, in 1589, by Sextus V. On the right, under the Terraces of the Pincio, are the statue of Rome by Cecca- rini, Neptune between two tritons, and statues of Spring and Summer, by Laboureur. On the left are the statues of Autumn, by Stocchi, and Winter, by Baini. To the right of the gate is the church of Sta MARIA DEL POPOLO founded by Paschal II in 1099. Its interior consists of nave, ; aisles, transept, and octagonal dome lavishly decorated by Ber nini. In the first chapel to the right, the picture over the altar, the Nativity of Jesus Christ, and the frescoes of the lunettes RAMBLE VI. 157 are by Pinturicchio. Second chapel is of the Cibo family, rich in marbles and adorned with forty-six columns of Sicilian jasper. The picture of the Conception is by Maratta. The third chapel, painted by Pinturicchio. In the fourth chapel is an interesting .bas-relief of the fifteenth century. The painting of the Virgin, on the high altar, is one of those attributed to St. Luke; the paintings of the vault in the choir are by Pinturicchio. The two monuments in marble ornamented by statues, are by Contucci da St. Savino. The last chapel but one in the small nave is of the Chigi family, and is one of the most celebrated in Ro me. Raphael gave the design for the dome , for the paintings of the freize, and for the picture of the altar, which was com menced by Sebastiano del Piombo , and terminated by Franc Salviati. The statues of Daniel and of Habakkuk were executed by Bernini. The front of the altar and the statues of Elias and Jonah are by Lorenzetto ; but the design of the last is by Raphael. Passing through! the Porta del Popolo , built in 1561 by Vignola, immediately to the left is the old English church, established there when the Pope ordered the services to be con ducted outside the walls, and by the side of it are the Ame rican and Scotch churches. VILLA BORGHESE. (Closed on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays) Turning to the right, just outside the Porta del Popolo, is situated this the handsomest park of Rome, founded by Cardinal Scipio Borghese. The grounds are open to all visitors; they cover a wide extent, and their walks, meadows, and groves, are cer tainly superb and unique in their general attractions. As a promenade for horsemen, pedestrians, and carriages, it shares the honours with its neighbour the Pincio. After an airing on the latter, a turn through the Porta del Popolo into this splendid villa generally completes the evening drive of Romans and tourists. The clatter of hoofs in winter begins at 4 p.m., and in summer at 7 p. m. On Sundays a large crowd is collected within its limits from all quarters of the city, composed of all classes, from the minente and Albanian nurses bearing babies, to the duchesses gliding along in landaus. On those days it becomes the Paradise of children , who flock thither with their guardians, and enjoy a rare frolic in gathering wild flowers, rolling- on the grass, and breathing a far purer air than the city affords. In the centre of the villa is the Museum, on Saturdays only, from 1 till 4 in the winter, and 4 tilt 7 in the summer. Catalogues are provided for visitors. 158 RAMBLES IN ROME The principal objects are a fighting Amazon on horseback : Daphne changed into a Laurel; Boy on a Dolphin; David with a sling; Apollo and Daphne; .Eneas carrying off'Anchises by Bernini; statue of Princess Pauline Borghese , sister to Napo leon I; Canova's Venus. Reentering the Gate, a winding road en our left, leads to the Pincio. Ascending , its terraces are interspersed with fountains and statues, and a fine large bas-relief on the wall opposite the two columns rostrate, adorned with the prows of ships. THE PINCIO, the favourite promenade of the Romans and Forestieri , who stroll and drive here every day , and which is enlivened still more on Sunday and Thursday afternoons by a military band. In the centre is the Egyptian obelisk, erected originally on this hill by Hadrian to his friend Antinous, and re-erected here by Pio Nono, as a public ornament. The name of the hill is de rived from the Pincii family, whose estates were upon it towards the close of the Empire. It abounds in walks and shady nooks, interspersed with fountains and the busts of Italia's great men. The side farthest from the city overlooks the Villa Borghese; at the extreme corner is a fragment of the old city wall — Muro Torto. From the terrace, the scene below, in the Piazza, is quite a study; beyond is the winding Tiber and its round- fortress of St. Angelo. The roof of the Pantheon, the columns of Aurelius and Trajan, the Capitol and Milizie Towers, and the Quirinal Palace, whilst between Mont Mario and the Ja- nicntum is the World's Cathedral, with its vast dome towering high above all; this dome is best seen at a distance, where the oye can take it all in, for immediate proximity dwarfs its immensity. Passing out of the Grounds by the road that runs pa rallel to the city. On our left is the FRENCH ACADEMY, or Villa Medici, open every day from 8 till 12, and from 3 till dusk. The gardens are tastefully laid out , and several fine views may be obtained from them. The museum of casts (of statues not in Rome) will repay a visit. Proceeding up the avenue, just beyond, on the left, is the RAMBLE VI. 159 CHURCH OF TRINITA DEI MONTI, erected by Charles VIII. of France. The Egyptian obelisk was founded in the gardens of Sallust, and placed here by Pius VI. in 1789 ; it is forty-eight feet high without the pedestal. Vi sitors should attend vespers here, the nuns singing choral ser vice ; it commences half an hour before Ave Maria. Over the altar of the side chapel in entering, is a beautiful Descent from the Cross, the master-piece of Daniele da Volterra. By the VIA SIS TIN A we reach the PIAZZA BARBERINI it has in the centre a beautiful fountain by Bernini, with four dolphins supporting a shell in which is a Triton; it throws water to a great height. Proceeding up the Via delle Qiiat- tro Fontane; on the left is the PALAZZO BARBERINI, open, on Monday. Tuesday, Wednesday, 12 till 5 , Thur sday, 2 till 5, Saturday 10 till 5. It contains paintings by the first masters, the principal of which are the fine fresco of P. da Cortona, representing the Triumph of Glory; the For- narina by Raphael ; the Beatrice Cenci by Guido Reni ; a Slave by Tiziano ; Adam and Eve by Domenichino ; the Holy Family by Andrea del Sarto; Jesus with the Doctors by A. Durer; the Marriage of St. Catherine by Parmigianipo. Catalogues are lent for the use of visitors. The statue to Thorwalsden, in the garden, was lately erected by Mr. "Wolff, his pupil. An avenue on the left of the Piazza leads up to the CHURCH OF THE CAPPUCCINI. In the first chapel on the right is Guido Reni's Beautiful picture of St, Michael, and in the third chapel two pictures by Domenichino ; but the most interesting part, the cemetery, is beneath the church, though entirely above ground, and lights ed by a row of iron-grated windows without glass. *' A cor ridor runs along beside these windows, and gives access to three or four vaulted recesses, or chapels, of considerable breadth and height, the floor of which consists of the consecrated earth of Jerusalem. It is smoothed decorously over the deceased brethren of the convent, and is kept quite free from grass or -weeds, such as would grow even in these gloomy recessess, if 1 60 R AMBLES IN R OME pains were not bestowed to root them up. But, as the ce metery is small, and it is a precious privilege to sleep m holy ground, the brotherhood are immemorially accustomed, when one of their number dies, to take the longest buried skeleton out of the oldest grave, and lay the new slumberer there in stead. Thus, each of the good friars, in his turn, enjoys the luxury of a consecrated bed, attended with the slight drawback of being forced to get up long before daybreak, as it were, and make room for another lodger. The arrangement of the unearthed skeletons is what makes the special interest of the cemetery. The arched and vaulted walls of the burial reces ses are supported by massive pillars and pilasters made of thigh-bones and skulls ; the whole material of the structure appears to be of a similar kind, and the knobs and embossed ornaments of this strange architecture are represented by the joints of the spine, and the more delicate tracery of the smaller bones of the human frame. The summits of the arches are adorned with entire skeletons, looking as if they were wrought most skilfully in bas-relief.. There is no possibility of descri bing how ugly and grotesque is the effect, combined with a certain artistic merit, nor how much perverted ingenuity has been shown in this queer way, nor what a multitude of dead monks, through how many hundred years, must have contri buted their bony framework to build up these great arches cf mortality. On some of the skulls there are inscriptions, pur porting that such a monk, who formerly made use of that par ticular head-piece, died on such a day and year ; but vastly the greater number are piled up indistinguishably into the architectural design like the many deaths that make up the one glory of a victory. In the side walls of the vaults are niches where skeleton monks sit or stand, clad in the brown habits that they wore in life, and labelled with their names and the dates of their decease. Their skulls (some quite bare, and others still covered with yellow skin and the hair that has known the earth-damps) look out from beneath their hoods, grinning hideously repulsive. One reverend father has his mouth wide open, as if he had died in the midst of a howl of terror and remorse, which perhaps is even now screeching through eternity. As a general thing, however, those frocked and hooded skeletons seem to take a more cheerful view of their position, and try with ghastly smiles to turn it into a jest. There is no disagreeable scent, such as might be expected from the de cay of so many holy persons, in whatever odour of sanctity they may have taken their departure. The same number of living monks would not smell half so unexceptionaby. " Haw thorne gives this graphic description. Leaving the church. RAMBLE VI. 161 -Crossing the Piazza Barberini the VIA DI S. BASILIO ¦leads to the VILLA LUDOVISI Permission obtained at Palazzo Piombino, Piazza Colonna, -Open every Thursday afternoon when the family are absent. Catalogues are provided for the use of visitors. ' The grounds are beautifully laid out interspersed with cy press avenues, different points being ornamented with ancient • sculpture. It stands partly on the site of the gardens of Sallust. The casino on the left in entering is the residence of the family. On the right is the second Casino: the principal objects are. 1. Hercules, 4. Pan and Olympus, 11. Venus, 14. The labors of Hercules- 34 a fine Mask. 2nd boom. Group of Mars and Cupid found in the Portico of Octavia, 7. Thesus and iEthra, by Menelaos. 9. Satyr, 17. Ju lius Caesar, 28. Gallic group, of which the wounded Gaul in the Capitol museum formed a part, (see page. 35) 41 , Juno , the finest head of the Goddess known. 43. Pluto carrying off Proserpine. In the highest part of the Villa is the Casino containing Guercino's beautiful fresco of Aurora driving away Night. Leaving the Villa we pass out of the PORTA SALARA rebuilt 1873. The road leads past the Villa Albani to the nonte Salara, now rebuilt. It is a pleasant Ramble as far as Ma rino — Grotta Ferrata — Rocca di Papa — Monte Ga- vo — Tusculum — Frascati — Tomb of the Empress Helena — Gabii — Ponte di Nona — Villa of the Gor- dian Emperors — Tomb of Quintus Atta — Tivoli — Ponte Lucano — Villa d'Este — Hadrian's Villa. Passing out of the PORTA DEL POPOLO and proceeding along the ancient VIA FLAMINIA, now PONTE MOLLE, turning up the lane on the right, at the top we come to the VILLA OF PAPA GIULIO. On the left hand side , at the corner of the lane , is the Casino with sculptured cornices and fountain; beyond the Ca sino, aud formerly connected with it by a corridor, is the Villa, where Pope Julius III best loved to dwell, coming from the 174 RAMBLES IN ROME Vatican in his barge, upon the Tiber. There remains two rooms with richly decorated ceilings by Zucchero, and a hne court; with a fountain. . .„ . As the road is very dusty and uninteresting, we will take the lane which conducts us, after a pleasant stroll, to ACQUA AGETOSA, a mineral spring, enclosed in a fountain by Bernini, and sur rounded by a small grove. The view of the Tiber here is very fine, particularly when the river has risen; on the opposite bank rises the picturesque ruin Tor di Quinto , the tomb of Ovid's family. The hill to the right was the site of ANTEMNiE, One of the most ancient cities of The Latin Laud, captured by tne Romans, under Romulus. Destroyed by Alaric a. d. 409,' who encamped hero when attacking Rome. Near by the Arnio flows into the Tiber. " With whirlpools dimpled ; and with downward force. " A beautiful prospect of the surrounding coun try may be here enjoyed. The Tiber rolling his yellow- hillows to the sea, serpent like, through green meadows. The blue Ap- penines with snow covered summits, looking patronisingly down upon the villaged crowned hills at their base. The slopes of Monte Mario dark with cork wood foliage on our left. A short distance up the Arnio, is PONTE SALARA, re built no-wGarabaldi has put by his sword. From here a pleasant road leads to the City Gates. Sir W. Gell says that the high point nearest the road was the citadel, below which is a cave that was once a sepulchre. One Gate looked towards Fiden^e, up the Tiber, another towards Rome. Perhaps also one toward Acqua Acetosa and another in the direction of the meeting waters. Taking the road to the left, by the river's banks, at a short distance PONTE MOLLE bursts upon our sight. Built by Pius VII in 1815, on the foun dations of the Pons Milvius, near which Constantine defeated Maxentius, October 27th, 312 and which is so graphically de picted by Raphael on the Vatican walls. Crossing the bridge, the road VIA FLAMINIA to the right leads us to PRIMA RAMBLES IN THE ENVIRONS 175 PORTA. SAXA RUBRA of the ancient Romans, the. first halting place from Rome. On the right, above the Osteria was situa ted the Veientina VILLA OF LIVIA, Permissions must be obtained at Palazzo Smni Piazza SS. Apostoli. about four miles from the bridge, discovered in 1863; and when first excavated, the frescoes and arabesques were found in a good state of preservation, but they have since been greatly damaged by atmospheric influence. Livia was the wife of Au gustus, and mother of Tiberius. " Formerly, when Livia, after her marriage with Augustus, was making a visit to her Villa at Veii, an eagle flying "by, let drop upon her lap a hen , with a spring of laurel in her mouth , just as she had seized it. Livia gave orders to have the hen taken care of, and the sprig of laurel set; and the hen reared such a numerous brood of chickens, that the Villa to this day, is called The Villa of the Hens. The laurel grove flourished so much, that the Cassars procured thence the boughs and crowns they bore at their triumphs. It was also their constant custom to plant others on the same spot, im mediately after a triumph; and it was observed that, a little before the death of each prince , the tree which had been set by him died away. But in the last year of Nero , the whole plantation of laurels perished to the very roots, and the hens all died. " Suetonius. The road straight on from the Ponte Mo lie, VIA CASSIA leads to VEII. 1 Turning off to the right beyond LA STORTA, at the tenth mile FOR CARRIAGES ; pedestrians turn off at the fifth mile near the Tomb op Vibius Mabianus, VIA VEIEETINA. The site of Veii is surrounded by two streams the Cremera and the Fosso de'due Fossi, it is about 12 miles from Rome. Captured after a ten years siege by the Romans under Ca millus b. c. 393. Descend from the Village of ISOLA * by the side of the brook to the Mill, here the torrent forms a picturesque casca de 80 ft high. Crossed by the ancient Ponte dell'Isola, with a single arch spaning 22 ft. Here was one of the ancient gates called Porta de'Sette Pagi. Opposite Isola down the stream is the Porta dell'Arce. Under the Rock of Isola are some mineral 176 RAMBLES IN ROME springs and another gate , Porta Campana. In the Ravine beyond was the Porta Fidenate. The gates on the other side of the city may be traced by ascending the Valley of the Cre- mera, Porta di Pietra Pertusa, beyond which, on the ancient road outside, is a large Tumuli, La Vaccareccia. Porta Spezze- ria high up, with the remains of a tufa bridge, near by the remains of an Etruscan Columbaria, * Beyond Porta Capenate, under which is Ponte Sodo, a tunnel 240 ft long, 15ft broad, , and 20 ft high , cut in tufa for the brook to pass through. Further on is Porta del Cblombario near a ruined Columbaria, Beyond is the Ponte di Formello a Roman bridge upon Etru scan piers, close by is the last gate, Porta Sutrina. * The Painted tomb , discovered in 1842 is kept locked by the-farmer at Isola, apply for the key but resist his demands. It is the most ancient Etruscan tomb yet discovered, the fur niture has been left exactly as it was found. The so called Piazza d'Arrni, the ancient citadel , is at the junction of the two streams. Under Julius Caesar within the walls of the ancient city an Imperial Mumctpium was founded. Part of a road some traces of tombs and a Columbaria mark the site. It seems to have been founded to occupy the commanding situation , as Florus the historian a. d. 116 asks. Who now knows the site of Veii? In the middle ages, for the same reason, the isolated rock was surmounted by a castle. Caesar Borgia beseiged it for 12 days and destroyed it. Isola is considered as the Necropolis of Veii from the sepulchral caves and niches hollowed in the rock. A pleasant Ramble may be had by following the Cremera down to the Tiber between the 6th and 7th mile on the Via Flaminia, thence to Rome. Beyond LA STORTA the VIA TRIUMPHALIS leads over MONTE MARIO. After crossing Ponte Molle and taking the road to the left , past the PRATI FARNESINI (the drill ground for Rome), we turn up a steep bye-road to the right which brings us to the deserted VILLA MADAMA, situated on the slopes MONTE MARIO The villa was built by Giulio Romano, and it contains some of his frescos , representing satyrs and loves , Jnno and her peacocks, Jupiter and Ganymede; and other subjects, of my thology. There is a fine fresco upon a ceiling, representing Phoebus driving his heavenly steeds, by Giovanni da Udine. A path through the woods leads up to the RAMBLES IN THE ENVIRONS 177 VILLA MELLINI. The spot which Martial celebrates in one of his beautiful epigrams, as where the Villa and Gardens of his uncle Julius stood " From hence are seen the seven imperial mounls; From hence you span the whole extent of Rome, The Alban hills, and those of Tusculum; " Tho present Villa was built by Mario Mellini , several of the rooms contain some very good frescoes. Ascending the Belve dere (fee Y2 lire) from 'which wo enjoy a glorious panorama of the Valley of the Tiber, looking, as it were, right up the valley in which Rome is situated; the Campagna, bounded by mountains, and the sea. Passing out into the VIA TRIUM PHALIS, by the oak avenue, pausing awhile at the top of the hill to admire " the vast and wondrous dome, " continuing our ramble, we descend the slopes of Monte Mario , the an- 'cient CLIVUS GINNiE , after a pleasant stroll, we turn by the Porta Angelica to the left, by a footpath, that conducts, by the rear of the Castle of St Angelo , to the banks of the Tiber, where the ferryman will for one sou, land us at the Ripetta Stairs. Page 106. Or, -entering the city by the PORTA ANGELICA, the street leads to St Peter's. Page 1. Start* Si M iwy* OSTIA, (Enlrame one Lira) Fourteen miles from Rome , near the mouth of the Tiber. Carriages must be hired for the day. On Sundays, in the spring, a steamer starts from the Ripa Grande at 7 a.m., returning the same evening, fare 4 francs return. Founded by Ancus Martius, it was the great port and arsenal of ancient Rome, with which it rose and fell. Ascending the tower of the castle in tho village an extensive view of the Latin Coast and the surrounding ancient forests may be had. Tho street of Tombs leads to -the ancient city. The principal objects of 178 RAMBLES IN ROME interest are: The Porta Romana, and Guard House, Houses in the city. Tombs and Columbaria, The Temple of Vulcan, Street with Portico and warehouses, The Horrea with the Dolia, The Imperial Palace, Baths containing many beautiful specimens of mosaic pavement, Temple of Mithras, in which the altar is' ¦ still standing, the arsenal etc. etc. The recent excavations were commenced at Ostia at the close of 1870 upon a system more in accordance with the require ments of archaeological science and the tendencies of topogram phical discoveries than had up to that time been practised. All idea of speculating, as had been until then the chief aim of the popes, in the statues and precious objects that might be found, was renounced, and instead it was proposed to uncover, by steady and continued effort, the ruins of the buried edifi ces; especial attention was bestowed upon those along the banks of the Tiber, as they had played an important part in. the career of the city. The earth was first removed round the large edifice known as' the " Imperial Palace " bordering on the Tiber; its principal entry, upon the bank of the river; although decorated with a more elegant front, constituted only a com mon doorway. Three spots, which bore tho aspect of stairs leading down to the river, have been excavated; firstly, upon the line from the Temple of Vulcan to the river; secondly, at a basin to the right side of this line; thirdly, at the other ex tremity of the basin , adjoining the Imperial Palace. At the first point was found the street which terminated at the banks of the river with a flight ef steps. Upon removing the soil, a street was discovered paved with immense flagstones , fifteen- yards wide, including the porticoes that flanked it on both sides. The porticoes are six yards wide, and are built with pillars of arched brick, decorated at the lower extremity with bas-reliefs, and at the upper with cornices of terra cotta, lace design. In their interior are large compartments for warehouses, with a depth of six yards below the level of the pavement. This street leading from the river to the Tem ple of Vulcan is 150 yards long. The lateral walls are pre served up to the height of seven yards, and the rooms of the porticoes still preserve their ceilings, the pavement of the first floor being mosaic. Another street, parallel to the above, was-. struck at the second point, also running from the river, and paved with large flagstones; it has a width of- five yards, and on each side large warehouses. On the left side are a series of pillars adorned with cornices, having a height of seven yards^ and a lateral width of two yards. As the street advances into the city, along the entire oourse are shops and warehouses,! conveying the grandest idea of the life, activity, and cominer- RAMBLES IN THE ENVIRONS 179 ciahtraffic that must have prevailed in the city. At the third spot were found the traces of a large stairway , leading to a terrace reared above the level of the river. To this stairway £L0 -lree-tS le?d' the. fi^t six yards wide, and proceeding from the interior of the city; the second, measuring a width of ten yards runs parallel to the Tiber, each side being occupied with warehouses. These are the three main streets lately thoroughly uncovered and examined into, and which, while affording an accurate plan to modern eyes of the time-honoured city, unite with its other ruins, tombs, and mosaic pavements, to consti- tuts Ostia one of the wonders of the day. A drive of two miles , leads to Castel Fusano belonging to Prince Chigi occupying the site of Pliny's Lamenting Villa When taking the Carriage the coachman should be distinctly to Id, if visitors wish to go to Castel Fusano. fjftk §>i #kk?j ALBANO. Reached by rail in three-quarters of an hour; omnibus meets the train at the station, which is two and a half miles from the town. It is a favourite resort in summer, on account of its pure air, elevated position, and the delightful rambles that can be made in its neighbourhood. In winter it is fre quented by all the Forestieri, who are to be seen there daily in carriages and on donkeys , doing up all the attractions of the locality. From this point the tour of the Alban Hills, taking in all places of interest, can be most conveniently made. The peasant costumes are very attractive. The town itself is not a centre of interest ; a few ruins are shown in some of its streets, but they are neither very visible nor authentic. At the intersection of the Via Appia with the town limits stands an ancient tomb, formerly considered to be that of the Horatii and Curatii — those champions of the age. Now it is more correctly looked upon as the Tomb of Pompey the Great, for we know his ashes were carried to Cornelia, who buried them in his land near Alba. The town occupies the site of the ruins of the Villa of Pompey, and.the. Albanum of Domitian. The best view of the Mediterranean is to be had at Albano. ' We nroceed over a viaduct, erected by Pio Nuno 1846-63, to 180 RAMBLES IN ROME ARIGGIA, three-quarters of a mile west from Albano, surrounded by beautiful woods; at its entrance is the Palazzo Chigi, built by Bernini, in the midst of a fine park; fee, half franc. The an cient town laid lower down the hill. After two miles by a pic turesque and shady road, crossing four viaducts, and command ing beautiful views, we arrive at GENZANO. Its excellent wine is renowned; this, its flowers and beautiful situation, are its sole attractions. The flower festival, 8th day after Corpus Christi, is fully described in " The Improvisato- re. " Up a path by the side of the Palazzo Cesarini we obtain a fine view of the LAKE NEMI which occupies an extinct crater. It is three miles in circum ference, and 300 feet deep, outlet by an artificial emissarius' The water is calm and marvellously clear. On the opposite side is the small mediaeval town of Nemi. The road to Nemi passes by the FOUNTAIN OF EGERIA which supplies the lake. The Nymph was overcome by the death of Numa as Ovid tells us " Other woes however do not avail ; to diminish Egeria's grief; and lying down at the very foot of the Mountain, she is melted into tears until the sister of Apol lo (Diana) moved to compassion made a cool fountain of her body, changed into perennial waters. " NEMI is picturesquely situated upon a hill above the lake ; upon the sides of the lake are the remains of Villas built of opus reti- culatum, and in the 16th century some of the wood work, tiles etc. of Caesar's Villa, begun, but afterwards pulled down because RAMBLES IN THE ENVIRONS 181 it did not suit his taste, were found and are preserved in the Library of the Vatican. ' " Lo Nemi ! navcll'd in the woody hills bo tar that the uprooting wind which tears 1 he oak from his foundations, and which spills 1 he ocean o'er its boundary, and bears Us foam against the skies, reluctant spares J he oval mirror of thy glassy lake; And calm as cherish'd" hate, its surface wears A deep cold settled aspect nought can shake, All coil'd into itself and round, as sleeps the snake. " A pleasant path through the woods leads to PALAZZOLO. " And near, Albano's scarce divided waves Shine from a sister valley. " Situated on Lake Albano, or it may be reached from Al bano or Marino by other roads passing round the lake Al bano. It is a Franciscan monastery; in its gardens is a tomb supposed of Cneius Cornelius Scipio Hispallus, b. c. 176. A path through the ivoods leads up to Monte Cavo. THE ALBAN LAKE, is 150 feet below Lake Nemi. Its emissary conducts its waters to the Tiber. Likewise occupying the crater of an extinct vol cano; it is six miles around and of unknown depth. The emis sary was made at the time the Romans were beseiging Veii b. c. 394 to lower the waters which threatened to flood the campagna. It is 1509 yds in length Situated on the bluff overlooking the lake is CASTLE GANDOLFO, formerly the summer residence of the popes. Its palace was erected by Urban VIII. This palace , and the charming sit uation, are its only features of attraction. On the opposite shore, which can be reached either from Palazzolo, or by a path from the Albano or Marino ends of the lake, is the supposed site of 182 RAMBLES IN ROME ALBA LONGA. Built by Ascanius 1152 b. c. destroyed by Tullius Hostilius 650 b. c. Virgil tells us that on .ZEneas consulting the oracle at Delos, the oracle replied: " Now mark the signs of future ease and rest; And bear them safely treasur'd in thy breast. When, in the shady shelter of a wood, And near the margin of a gentle flood, Thou shalt behold a sow upon the ground, With thirty sucking young encompass'd round; The dam and offspring white as falling snow — These on thy city shall their name bestow, And there shall end thy labours and thy woe. " J&a. Ill, 388. Again when Father Tiber appeared to him he says : " And that this nightly vision may not seem Th' effect of fancy, or an idle dream, A sow beneath an oak shall lie along, All white herself, and white her thirty young' When thirty rolling years have run their race, Thy son Ascanius, on this empty space, Shall build a loyal town, of lasting fame, Which from this omon shall receive the name. " /Ex. VIII, 70. Again. After Father Tiber had disappeared and ./Eneas having invoked the God, fitted oat two Galleys to go up the Tiber to Evander : " JVow on the shore the fatal swine is found — Wondrous to tell ! — She lay along the ground : Her well-fed offspring at her'udders hung; She hile herself, and white her thirty young. " iEN. VIII, 120. Thus according to Virgil's own showing, the sow was found on the banks of the Tiber. So how could the shores of the Alban lake be the site of Alba Longa. Ought we not rather to look for that site on the banks of the Tiber below Rome, where the sow was found according to the voices of the oracle and the ' river God; and the record handed down by Virgil. RAMBLES IN THE ENVIRONS 183 " Built by Ascanius the son of iEneas 30 years after the building of Lavinium. Alba stood between a " montain and a lake, the mountain is extremely strong and high; and the lake deep and large. When one part of the lake is low upon the retreat of the water, and the bottom clear, the ruins of por ticoes, and other traces of habitation appear, being the remains of the palace of King Alladius, which was destroyed by the lake rising. Alba Longa was demolished by Marcus Horatius by command of Servius Tullus. " Dionysius. From Castle Gandolfo a pleasant road by the lake leads to Marino, passing through a wood after leaving the lake; Just before entering the town we come to a wooded glen the ancient VALLA FERENTINA. where the diet of the Latin states assembled to discuss the interests of Peace and War. A stream runs through it, in the spring of which, at the head of the Valley, Turnus Herdonius Lord of Aricia was drowned by "the commands of Tarquinius Superbus. MARINO .celebrated for its wine. It is perched on an eminence 1,730 feet high. It was a great stronghold of the Orsini and after wards of the Colonnas, whose towers and Palace still stand. The principal street is the Corso, at the top on the right-hand side is a house decorated with curious Mosaics-and bas-reliefs surmounted with a Madonna. At the bottom of the Corso is the Cathedral of St Barnabas in which is a picture of St Bar tholomew by Guercino. The fountain close, by is' picturesque, composed of half female figures supporting the basin out of which are four figures supporting a column. Over a beautiful route of four miles we reach GROTTA FERRATA, which has a Greek monastery founded in 1002 by St. Ninus. In one of its chapels are frescoes, from the life of the saint, by Domenichino, restored by Camuccini in 1819. I airs are held here March 28th , and Sept. 8th , drawing large crowds from the neighbourhood as well as from Rome. By a steep ascent we reach 184 RAMBLES IN ROME ROGGA DI PAPA, situated on the brink of the great crater, which tradition holds was formerly occupied by the camp of Hannibal. It is a small town, but well suited for a summer residence. From here we ascend to MONTE GAVO. It is made in three-quarters of an hour. A woody summit along the Via Triumphalis, by which the Roman generals ascended, in order to celebrate at the Temple of Jupiter Latialis. The ruins of this .temple were converted partly into a monastery by the Cardinal York and partly to build the church of St Peter's at Frascati. The ancient name of this mountain was Monte Latialis and the ancient road .that went over it , Via Numinis, the initials V N in the pavement telling us the name. It is 3200 ft above the sea. About three parts of the way up, from a ledge, off the road a" beautiful view of the Alban lakes can be had, they forming as it were, a pair of eyes. The view Obtained here is unequaled, comprising the sea and coast from Terracina and Civita Vecchia, Rome and the Campagna, and, immediately beneath us, the Alban Mountains. A bye- road leads from Rocca di Papa to TUSGULUM, a city of great antiquity, now in ruins, founded by the son of Ulisses. The remains of the forum, baths, and walls, can still be traced. The ancient citadel stood on the artificial rock, which is now surmounted by a cross 212 feet above the city. The view from here is magnificent. It is 2,400 ft above the sea. Tusculum was destroyed in 1191 after repeated attacks by the Romans who razed it to the ground. It was the birthplace of Cato. Ascending by the old road still paved with the blocks of lava stone, passing by an old tomb we arrive at The Amphitheatre of reticulated work 225 ft by 167 broad the place where Cicero delivered his Tusculian disputations. Above which, is the site of Cicero's Villa, covered by the ruins of that of Tiberius, where he composed his celebrated Tusculan disputations. Beyond was The Forum, The Diurnal Theatre, The Baths, and The Citadel. To the left before entering the Theatre a short distance down the old road is a fountain erected by the Ediles Q. C. Lati- nus and Marcus Decimus, by order of the senate. Near it is a RAMBLES. IN THE ENVIRONS 185 reservoir with a roof like a gothic, arch, formed in the premi- tave style of one stone resting against another ; from here a specus runs back into the hill to the spring. Here also can be examined the walls of the city, formed of square blocks of spe- rone. The hill of Tusculum is formed of Volcanic matter which has in some parts been so hardened as to form a stone, spe- rone lapis Tusculanus, and which from the ruins, must have been largely used in the buildings of the city. The Visitor who has came up from Frascati, and wishes to return there , had better do so by another path through the woods, by the Camaldoli monastery, to the Villa M on dra- gonethen by the Villa Borghese to Frascati, a pleasant route. In descending the hill to Frascati by a shady road, passing through the Villa Rufflnella (the property of Prince Angelotti, who is making a new road up to it,) under the porch are some remains brought from Tusculum. The Villa Belvedere may be visited, in order to see its beautiful cascade, which falls from a great height. We now enter FRASCATI. which, of all the Alban towns, is most frequented on account of its nearness to. Rome, from which it can be reached by rail in half an hour. The town itself is uninteresting; in the cathe dral is a monument to Prince Charles Edward, erected by his brother, the Cardinal York, who was bishop of this diocese. The beautiful Villas in the vicinity are well worth visiting, affording cool retreats in summer; besides those above mention ed there are Villa Montalto, Villa Pallavicini , Villa Conti, Villa Muti, long the residence of Cardinal York, Villa Sora, Villa Falconieri, and Villa Angelotti. On the road to Monte Porzio, Via Manara, under the town is the pretty little Villa Sansoni long the residence of The Chevalier St George. The would be King James III of England and VIII of Scotland. „ T „ . The antiquities of Frascati are few. In walking up from the Station, opposite the hospital, in a garden is a grotto called the Nympium op Lucalus ; and in a piazza , were the donkeys are usually mounted for Tusculum, is a circular tomb called' the Sepulchre of Lucullus. Lucullus distinguished him self in the Social War, he was consul 74, b. c. and for 7 years conducted the war against Mithndates. He died 56 b c. and was buried by his brother on his estate at Tusculum; the offer of a public funeral in the Campus Martius being declined. " Lucullus had the most superb pleasure house in the country 186 RAMBLES IN ROME near Tusculum, adorned with grand galleries and open saloons, as well for the prospect as for walks. " Plutarch. Opposite the house of James III are somo remains of a Villa of the time of Augustus. IsiriE IfkiffMirit GABII An interesting excursion, leaving Rome by the Porta Mag giore, we take the road on the 'right VIA LABICANA, as we can return by the other, VIA GABINA or PR^ENESTI- NA. For the first mile the road runs parallel with the Clau- dian Aqueduct, At tho second mile is Tor Pignattara the Tomb of tho Empress Helena, tie red porphyry sarcophagus which contained the remains is now in the hall of the Greek Cross in the Vatican. Tho remains consist of a circular hall with eight circular recesses a church dedicated to SS. Peter and. Marcellinus stands within it, beneath which are the Cat acombs of the Saints. At the 6th mile is Torre Nuova sur rounded by Pine and Mulberry trees. At the Osteria di Fi- nacchio, 9th mile a bye road leads to the Osteria dell'Osa on the VIA GABINA (two miles). Visitors leave their _ car riage here , and order it to go on to opposite Castiglione two miles further on, on the VIA PR2ENESTINA, where they meet it after visiting Gabii. Founded by the Kings of Alba, taken by the Romans under Tarquin through the artifice of his son Sextus. It was deserted in the time of the Republic, but recovered under the Empire, to fall once more before the time of Constantine. At the end of the ridge are remains of the Roman Municipium and Temple of Juno of the time of Hadrian. The buildings of Castiglioee occupy the site of the ancient city. The principal ruin is the Temple of Juno Gabina. Virgil tells us " it was situated amidst rugged rocks on the banks of the cold Anienos. " The cella is composed of blocks of stone 4 ft by 2 tho interior is 50 ft long, the pavement is of white mosaic. Near by are the ruins of tho Theatre, and some Ionic columns. Considerable remains of the ancient walls can be traced. The fresh green basin below the ridge was once a lake , which was drained about 25 years since by Prince Borghese. It is curious that there is no mention of the lake by classical authors. It is first mentioned in reference to the RAMBLES IN THE ENVIRONS 187 Martyrdom of St Primitivus who was beheaded at Gabii and his head thrown into the lake, this was in the 5th century. Terhaps the lake did not exist in Tarquin s time and was for med by some freak of nature when the city was first deserted. Returning to Rome by the VIA GABINA after passing the stream OSA, about two miles we come to a fine Roman Viaduct, Ponte di Nona, consisting of seven lofty arches built of rectangular blocks of Lapis Gabinus, its date is unknown. At the eighth mile is tho mediaeval Tor Tre Teste so called from the three heads built in its walls. About 2 % miles from Rome at the Tor dei Schiavi are extensive Ruins of-the Villa of the Gordian Emperors. Consisting of a large reservoir, the circular hall of the baths, a circular temple 43ft in diameter, the inside is relieved by alternate round and square niches , the crypt beneath is supported by one pier. Between this and _ Tor dei Schjavi three rooms at the base of a circular edifice, ' have been opened, the floors consist of black and white mosaic. On the right about a mile further on is the circular tomb, .50 yds in diameter, of Quintus Atta the comic poet (b.c. 55) the interior is in the form of a Greek cross. 1 mtm TIVOLI. eighteen miles from Frascati. from which it can be reached by carriage. It is eighteen miles from Rome. Carriages, 1 one-horse, twenty five francs; two horses , forty francs ; if hired from an hotel they are dearer ; diligence (see page ,196); donkey for excursion to the Falls one and a half francs; guide {not necessary) one franc. . The Albkrgo Regina is tho best in the town everything clean and good cookery. Comfortable apartments for those spending a few days here. The Sibilla not so clean or comfortable but a fair lunch can be provided in the temple of the Sibyl at tached to the inn. Pension at both houses. For itinerary see - having Rome by the Porta S. Lorenzo at the 4th mile the Ponte Mammolo crosses the Anio or Teverone, at the 9th mile the old pavement of the ancient Via Tiburtina may be seen on oxir left. On a hill to the left at about the 10 th mile is 1 88 R AMBLES IN R OME Castel Arcione , a mediaeval castle belonging to a family of that name. Destroyed by the S. P. Q. T. having become a stronghold for brigands. Just beyond, tho calciferous lake of Tartary formerly existed, but it is now dried up. Near by a sulphurous odour indicates the proximity of the Aquae Albulae, baths often frequented in ancient times. A channel, constucted by Cardinal Este, draws off the water from these sulphurous lakes to the Tiber. The Bath-house was erected in 1862 , and the water is beneficial" for skin diseases. In this vicinity are the quarries of Travertine, so called from the stone taking the ancient name Tiburtians , which have yielded the materials for building both ancient and modern Rome, the Colosseum, and St Peter's. Four miles from Tivoli, we cross the picturesque PONTE LUGANO, which spans the Anio. Near by is the solid and magnificent tomb of the Plantii , similar to that of Cecilia Metella. The upper part has been repaired in Mediaeval times that it might serve as a fortress. Erected 1. b. c. by M. Plautius Silvanus for himself Lartia his wife, and Urgularieus his child. The in scription tells us that one of his descendants served in Britain and died a. d. 76. A little beyond a road turns off to the right leading to Hadrian's Villa, which had better be visited in returning. . First visit the gte.i, then take the road round to see the small falls passing oner the Pnnle dell' Aequoria, turn lo the right, this brings us into the main road, below the town: a short too;/ down we turn off to Hailrian's Villa. Tell the carriage to come there to' meet you or in stead of turning to the right after pasting the bridge the road lo the left leads past the Tempio della fosse up to the Villa D'Este. THE ANCIENT TIBUR was delightfully situated on the Sabine Hills, the modern town, of 7,000 inhabitants, has few attractions except its charm ing situation and the past recollections. It bore the name- of Tibur in antiquity, and during the. Augustan age the Roman nobles founded splendid villas there, among which were those of Augustus himself, Maecenas, and the Emperor Hadrian. The beauties of Tivoli and the surrounding country were recorded in undying verse by Horace, whose Sabine farm was not far distant, and who seems to have delighted to dwell in retire- RAMBLES IN THE ENVIRONS 189 ™nUn il\l neighborhood rather than in noisy, bustling, Ro- ™a tT* $°Zn held.in hiSh reverence Hercules, The Sibyl, ?fi ¦ • u? ¦ the, remains of temples dedicated to the latter are still visible immediately above the cascades on tho edge of the present city limits. It is generally in Vesta's temple that tourists ¦1 u localjtv spread out and partake of the provisions brought with them from Rome, this is only advisable in warm wea ther. This circular Temple of Vesta is surrounded by an open corridor of Corinthian columns, ten of which still remain. The terrace of the temple commands a good view of the falls, which are formed by the waters of the Anio. A swift torrent, 'proceeding from the mountain heights , and leaping down a precipice at the village, constitutes the celebrated cascades of Tivoli, one of which is 340 feet in height. Visitors are con ducted to various spots (on donkeys or on foot) whence they may be able to catch the finest glimpses of the rising spray, and also in order to visit the grottos of Neptune and Sibyl. The path is often precipitous, rough, and narrow, but the sight well repays the trouble of parading over so much ground. Le Cascatelle, or small falls,' are formed by a branch of the same river. The tunnels through Monte Catillo were cut in 1834 as by the old course the town was frequently flooded. In fact the inundation of 1826 rendered these new channels necessary. This flood exposed the remains of two ancient bridges and se veral tombs. The one highest up the river Pons Valerius, and the one near the mouth of the tunnels, Pons Vopisci after the owner of the adjoining ancient Villa. The Villa ' of Mecaenas; and Temple of Hercules, is now occupied by iron works, in the garden are remains of a Doric portico. Below the iron works is the so called Tempio della Tosse, a circular building like the Pantheon, probably the Tomb of the Turcia family. THE VILLA D'ESTE near the entrance of the town from Rome. It is ornamented with fountains, ilexes, cypresses, formal plantations, and clipped hedges; all very stiff amidst so much natural beauty. The ca sino is decorated with frescoes by F. Zucchero and Muziano. The Villa has been neglected and deserted by its present proprietor, Cardinal Baroli; and is fast going to rain and decay, this rather adds to its picturesque and haunted appearance. If Scott or Dickens had only made it the scene of one of their tales it might have become historical. 190 MJLM. VIjIIiB J.J.V AVJ.rj.Mj HADRIAN'S VILLA f Entrance one lira) stands on the slope of the heights of Tivoli, from which it .is only 40 munites walk. It once covered an area of several • square miles, and its magnificent grounds , unequalled in the Roman Empire, were laid out by Hadrian, in order to assem ble within them models of every thing that had struck him during his travels; and accordingly they were filled with the finest statuary, places, temples , theatres , circuses , and aca demies. Some of the finest antique statues were found here un-, der the Popes. All this sumptuousness was destroyed in the sixth century by the Gotlis. Extensive ruins still exist. It is thus described by Pope Pius II. " About tho third of a mile from the city of Tivoli, the Emperor Hadrian built a very splendid villa, like a great vil lage. The lofty and vast roofs of the temples Still remain, the columns of the peristyles and sublime porticoes , may yet be gazed at with , admiration ; there are still the. remains^ of the Piscinas and baths, where a canal derived from the Arnio once cooled the summer heats. Age deforms all things, ¦ — the ivy now drapes those walls once covered witb painted hangings and cloths woven with gold; thorns and brambles have grown where purple clothed Tribunes sat, and smakes inhabit the chambers of Queens. Thus perishable is the nature of all things mortal. " Entering through an avenue of cypresses, we arrive at the Odeum, the skeleton of which only remains: this was for mu sical performances. Following the path beyond the modern Casino to the left by the Nymph^iom then along the brink of the Valley to some chambers called the Palaestra: this was a place for wrestling; study and disputation.. From- the edge of this ruin we look down upon a valley , made in imitation of the Vale of Tempe, a stream runs' through it' named after the river in Thessaly; Peneas. On the opposite^ slope of the Valley was the Latin Theatre. Beyond the Par-'i lsestra is The Imperial Palace, with the ruins of the Temples of Diana and Venus adjoining; passing through which at the furthest extremity is the Temple of Castor and Pollux. Near. this are some subterranean passages; The Tartarus , beyond were the Elysian Fields. Elysium or the Elysian Fields, was the region were the souls of the dead were supposed to go to, If they had been good. There happiness was complete, and the pleasures were innocent and refined; the air was serene and temperate, the bowers ever green, and the meadows watered RAMBLES IN THE ENVIRONS 191 with perennial streams, and the birds continually warbled in one groves. Tartarus, was the region of punishment in the nether world of the Ancients. On the further side of which is the Roman Iheatre. Beyond was the Lyceum. Returning we come upon the Academy. The Academy at Athens was an open Meadow given to the city by Academus from whom it took its name It was afterwards formed into a grove. It was the resort of Plato and hence his disciples took the name of Academic Philosophers. Beyond which is the Serapheon of Canopus with the Sa- crarium of Jupiter Serapis at the end, built in imitation of the canal connecting Alexanderia with Canopus a city nf Lower Egypt 12 miles east of Alexander at the west or canopic mouth of the Nile. On the right, are some remains of the Hippodrome; and towards the entrance of the Serapheon, The Baths: from here we reach the Stadium; where the foot races were held. We now come upon a, lofty wall of opus reticulatum nearly 600 ft lonj This was one of the walls of The Poecile Stoa; in imi tation, of the Grand Portico at Athens of that name ; famed, for its fresco paintings of the Battle of Marathon by Polyg- notus; and as the seat of the school of Zono the Philosopher who took the name Stoic from frequenting this Portico. This portico was built on an artificial platform, and the wall can be traced all round: underneath are tho Hundred Chambers - of the Guards. From our right of the wall , we enter the Prytaneum, in imitation of the council hall of that name at Athens; where the 50 deputies of the Republic lived and held office, each five weeks in turn. Through this we reach. The Aquarium or Maritime Theatre, a circular edifice with an octagonal platform in the centre with openings for fountains and statues, to the left of this were the Greek and Latin Libraries. Having "now Rambled over the extent of this famous Villa and picked up a memento ot our visit, we may truly exclaim " Sic Transit Gloria Mundi. " 192 RAMBLES IN ROME NOTES VisiTOPyS' Directory ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED. Owing to constant changes in the various infor mation desired by Visitors; Mr S. Eussell Forbes publishes The Tourist's Directory every fortnight in which will be found all the latest information required and also an Archaeological Bulletin of the recent discoveries. Archaeological Society British and American, 12 Vicolo d'Alibjrt. Anchor Line Rome Agency; 12 Vicolo d'Alibert. Arts, British Academy of 75d Via Sistina. 13 194 ARTISTS IN ROME, ENGLISH AND AMERICAN. Artists are invited to send Iheir names and address for insertion, also notice as to. change of studio, etc. PAINTERS Bartlett English 49, Via Margutta E. Barclay » 40, Via Margu ta E. Benson American 48, Via Margatta C. C. Coleman » 33, Via Margutta Clark Miss » 26, Quattro Eontane T. Chapman » 135, Via Babuino Carson Mrs » 159, Quattro Pontane P. Crowninshield » 33, Via Margutta ., W. Lane Conolly English 17, Via Margutta H. Dale » 75, Via San Basilio W. H. Dunbar » Via Tordinona E. Ellis » 123, Via Sistina J. E. Preemann American 68, Via Capo le Case C. C. Griswold > 46, Via S. Basilio W. Graham » 53, Via Margutta A. Glennie English 17, Piazza Margana W. S. Haseltine American Palazzo Altieri Halswell English 36, Vicolo dei Greci L. Lang Lloyd Capt > 136, Via Sistina » 49, Via Margutta P. Millett » 192, Via Ripetta J. de Montelant American 53, Via Maigutta L. Perry » 8, Via degl'Incurabili C. Poingdestre English 36, Via dei Greci Miss Raincock » 8, Via Porta Pinciana H. Riviere » 68, Via Sistina W. Richmond » 72, Via Sistina J. Severn » Palazzo Poli A. Strutt » 81, Via della Croce J. R. Tilton American 20, Via S. Basilio L. Terry E. Vedder » Vicolo degl'Incurabili 53a, Via Margutta P. C. Welsch » 7b, , Vic. S. Nicold da Tolentinp; The Misses Williams » 44, Via Condotti N. Walsh English 30, Via Babuino P. Waller » 33, Via Margutta^ P. Williams » 12, Piazza Mignanelli Miss Wratislaw » 43, Via Bocca di Leone G. H. Yewel American 7, Vic, S. Nicol6 da Tolentino J. B. Young English J. T. White » L. Lang E. Smith American » M. J. Smith » P. Ball scuz English H. Cardwell » Miss Freeman American Mrs. Freeman » Miss Foley » A. St Gandens » J. H. Haseltine » M. Haudley » A. E. Harnisch » Miss Hosmer » C. B. Ives » S. Kitson English Miss Lewis » L. Macdonald » L. Milmoro American E. D. Perry » R. Rogers American W. W. Story > I. Swinerton Isle of 11a F; Simmons American G. Simonds English G. Summers » W. Wood » S. Wood 195 Passeggiata di Ripetta ¦ 16, Passeggiata di Ripetta 136, Via Felice 136, Via Felice 53, Via Margutta 5, Vic. S. Nicol6 da Tolentino 13, Via Tordinona 5, Via Margutta 68, Via Capo lo Case 53a, Via Margutta 4, S. Nicolo da Tolentino 8, Via degl'Incurabili 5a, Via Margutta 58b, Via Sistina 118, Via Margutta 39, Via Babuino 10, Vicolo dei Greci 9, Piazza S.Nic. daTolentino 7, Piazza Barberini 50a, Via S. Basilio 6. Vic. S. Nicol6 da Tolentino 53, Via Margutta 2, S. JSTicold da Tolentino 8, Trinita dei Monti 8, Via S. Basilio 40, Piazza Barberini 72, S. Nieol& da Tolentino • Villa Campana, stradone di S Giovanni in Laterano 504, Via del Corso Bankers. Maquay Hooker and Co. 20, Piazza di Spagna. — Eyre and Matteini, 81 Piazza di Spagna. — Macbean, 378 Corso.— Plowden, 58 Via Mercede. — Dumaresque and Co. 26 Piaz za di Spagna. Booksellers and Stationers. Alinari and Cook, 90 Corso. — Monaldini and Calisti, 79 & 80 piazza di Spagna. — Spithoe- ver, 83 piazza di Spagna. — Piale, 1 & 2 piazza di Spagna. Bishops of Rome A. D. 42 to 600 when they were made Popes in all down to 1876—294. Catholic Colleges. English , Via di Monserrato. — Scotch, Via Quattro Pontane. — Irish. Via del Quirinale. — United '.States, Via Umilta. 196- Club English, 76 Via della Croce. Consulate British, 378 Corso. Vice Via del Bufalo. » General United States America, 64 Via Napoli. , >, Vice 26 Piazza di Spagna Chemists. Baker, 407 Corso. — Borioni, 98 Via Babuino^: — Sinimberghi, 64 Via Condotti. CARRIAGE AND CAB TARIFF, One Horse lire fient- A course inside the walls', from one point to another , isimi without stopping, 2 persons 0 80 Ditto ditto 3 persons 1 — By the hour 1 .70 » after sunset 2 20 A course after Sunset. Two persons 1 — » » Three persons 1 20 Outside the gates. Up to the 2nd milestone 2 20 » » after sunset 2 70 Two Horses. A course inside the walls 1 50 By the hour 2 50 » after sunset 2 70 Outside the gates Up to the 2nd milestone 2 70 » » after sunset 3 20 N. B. — If going any distance in the Campagna, or to the Meet, it is advisable to make an agreement before starting, as after the 2nd mile'the driver is beyond the jurisdiction , andean demand any amount he chooses, and there is no appeal. No charges are made for hand-bags, but for box or portmanteau, 4/2 franc. Diligences to Tivoli. Start from Vicolo Guardiola, via del- 1' Emo Vicario, Piazza Monte Citorio da ly, at 4.30 a.m., and 3.30 p.m.; fare 3 francs and 2.50. Leaves Tivoli for Rome at the same hours. 197 Doctors. Grigor, 3 piazza di Spagna. — Aitken, 52 via Frat- tina 3 piano. — Gason , 81 Via della Croce. — Gould, 46 via Babuino. — Small, 107 via Babuino, — Steele, 12 via delle Carrozze 3 p. — Tausing, 113 Via Sistina. Dentists. Curtis, 91 piazza di Spagna. — Martin and Son, 389 _ Corso. — WTasson, Piazza di Spagna p. p. entrance 107 via Babuino. Embassy British Palazzo del Gallo, via Magnanapoli Trajan's Forum. EMPERORS. Raigned A. D. Augustus 40B.C.27— 14 Tiberius 23 yrs. 14—37 Caligula 4 37—41 Claudius 13 41—54 Nero 14 54—68 Galba 6§— 69 Otho 69—69 Vitellius 69-69 'Vespasian...., ...10 69—79 Titus 2 96—98 Domitian 15 81—96 Nerva 2 79-81 Trajan 19. 98—117 Hadrian 21 117—138 Antoninus Pius 23 138—161 iM. Aurelius.... 19 161—180 IL. Verus 8 161—169 Commodus 12 180—192 Pertinax 193—193 Julunus 193—193 Septimius Severus 18 193—211 (Caracalla 6 211—217 ¦ JGeta 1 211—212 Macrinus 1 217—218 Eliogabalus 4 218—222 Alex. Severus.. .13 222—235 Maximinus 3 235—238 -jGordianus I j 238-238 (Gordia'ius II. \ jPupienus laximn) 233_238 HBalbinus ) Gordianus III.. 6 238—244 -Philippus 5 244-249 Reigned Decius 2 yrs Trebonianus Gallus 3 iEmilianus jValorlan 7 'Gallienus 15 Claudius II 2 Aurelian '. 5 Tacitus 1 Floranius Prob'us 6 Carus 1 iCarinusiMumerianus Diocletian 21 Maximian 19 Constantius I... 1 Chlorus Galerius 6 \ Constantine I. ) the Great... .31 Licinius 16 [Constantine II. 3 Constantius II 24 'Constans 1 13 Julian 2 Jovian 1 A.D. 249—251 251—254 253—253 253—260 253—268268—270 270—275 275-276 276—276276—282 282—283 ...1 283—284284—305286—305305-306 305—311 306—337 307—323 337—340 337—361 337—350 361—363363—364 Empire Divided Valentinian I. 11 364—375 Gratian 16 367—383 Valentinian II. 17 375—392 198 . Reigned A.D Theodosius I.... 3yre. 392— 395 (Bmperor of t lie West as well as of the lias!.) Honorius 28 395—423 Theodosius II... 2 423—425 Bmperor of tlic Weil as well as «f llic Bast.) Vatlentini'anIII30 425—455 PeironiusMaximns... 455 — 455 Avtus 1 455—456 Majorian 4 457 — 461 Libius Severus 4 461—465 Anthemius 5 467—472 Olybrius 472—472 G ycerius 473 — 474 Julius Nepos 474 — 175 Romulus Aujuiiulm... 475—476 Fall of Western Empire Eastern Empire Valens...., 14 364—378 Theedosius' I....16 378—395 Arcadius 13 395—408 Theodosius II...42 408—450 Marcian 7 450—457 Leo 1 Thrax....l7 457—474 Leo II 474—474 Zeno 17 474—491 Anastasius I.. ..27 491—518 Justin 1 9 518—527 Justinian 1 39 527—565 Justin II 13 565—578 Tiberius II 4 578—582 Mauricius '. 20 582—602 Phocas 8 602—610 HeracliusI 31 610—641 ConstantinellL also called ... 641—641 Heraclius II. ) Haracleonas 641—641 Constans II 27 641—668 Constantine IV Pogonatus....l7 668—685 Reigned A. D: Justinian II Rhinotmetus 10 yrs. 685—695 Leontius 3 695—698 Tiberius Aluimnnis 6 698 -704 Justinian II again 7 704—711 Philippicus, or Philepicus.... 2 711—713 Anastasius II... 3 713—716 Theodosius III. 1 716-717 Leo III 24 717—741 Tssiims Constantine V..34 741—775 Copronymus. (Arlavasdcs, murner.) _ . Leo IV... 1-5 .7^-780 Chazarus. ~»-.^_.' Constantine VI. 17^ 780—797 Irene... 5 ! 797—802 Nicephorus I... 9 .802—811 Stauracius 9-11 — 911 Michel 1 2 811—813 Rhangabe. Leo V 7, 813-820 Armenius. Michael II 9 820-829, Baldus. '¦ ,: Theopilus 12 829—842: Michael III 25 842— 867' • Basil 1 19 867—886 Macedo. Leo VI :.„25 886—911 Sapiens. Costantine VII.48 911—959 Porphyrogenitus. Alexander, eol-i league of Cons- 1 911— 912' tantine VII.) Romanus I, Le-i ¦ , eapenus, colleaguej25 919 — 944 of Constantine VII.) Constantine \ VIII,Slephanui,i iona of Roma-?... 944—944. nus I, reignedl five weeks.../ 199 Reig ned A. Romanus II 4) n 959— Nicophorus II.. 6 963- Phocas. 7 969- Zimisces. Basil II, colleaguei of- Joannes I, 56 969- for seven years. . . Constantine IX \ colleague of Ba-| SllII, for forly-i 52 976- Romanus III... 6 1028- Argyrus. Michael IV 7 1034- Paphlago. 1041- Calaphates. Zoe and Teodora 1042- Constantine X. i2 1042- Monomachus Theodora (-igain) 2 1054- Michael VI 1 1056- Stratioticus. 2 1057- Comnenus. Constantine XI 8 1059— D.ucas Romanus IV.. 4 1067- Diogenes. Michael VII... 7 1071- Parapinaces Nicephorus III 3 1078- Botaniates. Alexis or Alexius I. 37 1081— Commenus. Joannes II, Comnenus or, 25 1118— Calo-Joannes 38 1143- Comnenus. ¦Alexis or Alexius II 2 1181— Cemnenus. Andronicus I.. 2 1183- Comneuus. D •963¦969¦976¦1025 -1028 1034 1041 1042 1042 1054 ¦1056¦1057¦1059 •1067 1071¦1078 ¦1081•1118 1143¦11811183¦1185 Reigned A.D. Isaac II 10yr». 1185— 1195 Angelus. Alexis or Alexius III. 8 1195—1203 Angelus. Alexis or Alexiui IV. 1 1203—1204 Angelus. Alexius or Alexiui v.. . 1204—1204 Ducas. Latin Emperors of Constantinople. Baldwin 1 1 1204—1205 Henry 10 1206—1216 Peter 1217—1219 Robert 7 1221-1228 John of Brienne 9 1228— 1 237 Baldwin II 24 1237—1261 Greek Emperors of Niceea. Theodoras 1 16 1206—1222 Joannes III 33 1222-1255 Vatatzes. Theodoras II... 4 1255—1259 Lascaris. Joannes IV 1 1259—1260 Lascaris. Michael •VIII... 1 1260—1261 Palaeologus. Greek Emperors of Constantinople again Michad VIII... 21 1261—1282 Palaeologus. Andronicus II..46 1282-1328 Palaeologus ('»- oiatcd with Andronicus II in the empire). Andronicus III. 13 1328-1341 Palaeologus. Joannes V 13 1342-1355 Cantacuzenus. 200 Reigned A.D. Reigned A.D. Joannes VI 36yn. 1355— 1391 Joannes VII.... 23yr«. 1425— 1448 Palaeologus. Palaeologus. Manuel II 34 1391—1425 Constantine XIII 5 1448—1453 Palaeologus. Palaeologus. Fall of Eastern Empire. Fox-hounds. — Meet twice a week in the neighbourhood of the city. The meets are posted at the libraries. Through off at 11. Subscription according to time. The huntsman is an Englishman well up to his work, and visitors may at least look for an enjoyable gallop over the Campagna. GALLERIES, MUSEUMS AND VILLAS OF ROME. Open Every Day. Barberini 1 till 4 Capitol 10 » 3 Colonna 12 » 3 Lateran 10 » 3 St. Luke 10 » 3 Vatican 8 till 11, 2 » 4 Monte di Pieta 8 » 3 Monday. Borghese 10 till 4 Spada 10 » 1 Corsini 9 » 3 Tuesday. Doria 10 till 2 Wednesday. Borghese 10 till 4 Rospigliosi 9 » 3 Spada 10 » 1 Thursday. Corsini 9 till 3 Friday. Borghese 10 till 4 Doria 10 > 2 Saturday. Rospigliosi 9 till 3 Corsini 9 » 3 Spada : 10 > 1 Farnesina only on the 1st and 15th of each month, from Octo ber till May. MUSEUMS. Open Every Day. Capitol 10 till 3 Lateran 10 » 3 Vatican (Mornings)... 8 » 11 And on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday afternoons, from 2 till 4. Sunday, Tuesday & Thursday. Kircherian 10 till 3 Saturday. Borghese (Winter).... 1 till 4 » (Summer)... 4 » 7 Kircherian 10 » 3 201 VILLAS. Open Every Day. Medici 9 till 12, 2 till dusk Mellini » 9 » Monday Pamphily Doria... 2 till dusk Tuesday. Borghese 12 till dusk Albani 12 till 4 Wednesday. Thursday. Borghese 12 till dusk Ludovisi 1 » dusk Friday. Pamphily Doria.... 2 till dusk Saturday Borghese Villa 12 till dusk Volkonsky 2 > dusk Sunday. Borghese Villa 12 till dusk Torlonia 1 till 5 Volkonsky 2 till dusk Gaze's Tourist Office, 12 Vicolo D'Alibert, House Agents. Shea, 9 piazza di Spagna. — ¦ Phelps (plans of all the houses kept', 132 via Babuino. Imperial Period B. C. 27 to fall of Western empire A. D. 476. Kingly period B.C. 753 to 509. Legation United States of America, 432 via Fontanella di Borghese. Libraries & Reading rooms. Piale (the best in Rome), 107 and 108 via Babuino. — Monaldini (Circulating library of works on Rome), 79 and 80 piazza di Spagna. Masonic. We have much pleasure in announcing that the Grand Lodge of Italy has been removed from Florence to Rome. The Masonic Hall is in the via della Valle N. 49. The most worshipful the Grand Master of the order in Italy is Brother Giuseppe Mazzoni, Deputy of Parliament for Prato. The Grand Secretary is Brother Luigi Castellazzo. Brother Mauro Macchi is Grand Orator; and Grand Chancellor, Bro ther Giorgio Tamajo, Deputy' of Parliament, is past Grand Master. The Universo Lodge meets every Wednesday at 8 p. m. The Tito Vezio Lodge tho first and third Tuesday of every month at 8 p. m. 202 British and American Brethren will receive a truly frater nal greeting and are invited to attend the Lodge during their stay in the City of the Caesars. Orders required and where obtainable. For an interview -with His Holiness the Pope. Of Monsignor Ricci, at the Vatican. St Peter's, Dome. Of Monsignor Theodoli, in the Sacristy. St Peter's Crypt. Of Cardinal Monaco, Palazzo Altemps piazza deH'Apollinare. Vatican Mosaic Manufactury. Of monsignor Theodoli in the Sacristy. Vatican Gallery, Loggie, and Stanze of Raphael, Si- stine Chapel, Vatican Museum, etc. Of monsignor Ricci, at the Vatican from 10 till 1. Catacombs of St Agnese etc. Of Cardinal Patrizi , 70 via della Scrofa. Villa Albani ) At the palazzo Torlonia, Piazza di Ve- Villa Torlonia \ nezia. Villa Volkonsky. At the Russian Consulate, palazzo Feoli, Corso. House of the Deputies From any member. Villa Loudovisi, Palazzo Piombirio, piazza Colonna. Villa of Livia, Palazzo Senni 173 Piazza SS. Apostoli. OMNIBUS From Piazza di Venezia, via del Gesii, to St. Peter's every 5 minutes; fare, 20 c, » Piazza di Venezia to Sta Maria Maggiore, every 5 mi nutes; fare 10. » Piazza di Venezia via Piazza delle Carrette to St Gio vanni in Laterano, every hour; fare, 20 c. » Piazza di Venezia, via Piazza di St Pantaleo to Piazza del Popolo, every hour; fare, 20 c. also Via The Cor so fare 10 C. » Piazza di Venezia to the Railway Station, leave an hour before the starting of each train. 20 c. » Outside Porta del Popolo, to the Ponte Molle, after 3 p. m.: fare, 30 c. » Piazza Campitelii to St Paul's, outside the wall's, every 15 minutes after Noon; fare 30 c. Population to June 1874: 248,307. 203 PROTESTANT CHURCHES IN ROME. The English Church. Outside Porta del Popolo. First house on the left. Trinity Church, Piazza San Silvestro. American, Chapel, Outside the Porta del Popolo. Second house (beyond English Church) on the left. Free Presbyterian Service, Outside the Porta del Popolo. Left side beyond English Church. American Church, Via Condotti. Baptist Chapel, 3.5 Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina. Methodist Chapel, 64 Via della Scrota. " 12 VICOLO D'ALIBERT, one munite from Piazza di Spagna. " Open daily except Sunday from 10 to 5 o'clock ENGLISH SPEAKING PEOPLE From all parts of the world meet here. Register of Visitors kept. Library of interesting books, for old and young. En glish and American Newspapers, Maps, Charts, Guide Books, Time Tables, etc. FREE TO ALL. EVENING SERVICES, SUNDAY From 7,30 to 9,30 o'clock, Christian Workers of all Denominations meet here and sing , talk; pray, confer on important subjects and become acquainted with each other, Bibles, testaments, tracts, etc. For Gratui tous Distributions Come and bring your friends. W. p. yAN yAETER^ 204 POSTAL NOTICES. The English and American Mail is closed at 9. A. M. and 9. 30 P. M. Letters not exceeding % oz to England 30 centesim1 » » to America 40 » Postal Cards to any country in the Postal Union 15 » ' Newspapers to England 7 centesimi » to America 10 » Registration 30 c. in addition to postage. The English and American Mail is distributed at 8.30 P. M. and 10 A. M. There are two dispatches from England daily, except Sunday. Letters for Italy not exceeding V2 oz 20 centesimi Newspapers for Italy 5 > , Postal Cards 10 » Telegrams not exceeding 15 words (address not charged), in Italy 1 franc Ditto for England (including address 20 words)... 9 » Office : Monte Citorio. Money Orders for Italy. — On the 1st of July, 1872 , and thece forward, money orders may be obtained at any money order office in the United Kingdom, payable at any money order office in Italy. The commission chargeable will be uniform 205 with that charged on money orders issued on Belgium, Swit zerland , and the Netherlands -viz.: On sums not exceeding L. 2, 9d.; on sums above L. 2, and not exceeding L. 5, Is. 6d.; on sums above L. 5, and not exceeding L. 7, 2s. 3d.; on sums above L. 7, and not exceeding L. 10; 3s. No single money order will be issued for, a higher sum than L. 10. The issue of money orders in Italy, payable at money order offices in this country, will also commence on the 1st of July, 1872. — The Times. I (L. stands for Pounds.) Republican period B. C. 509 to 27. Kiibattino Mail Steamer Co. Tickets by these steamers are now issued from Messrs Gaze's Rome office S. R. Forbes Agent. "Sailings from Naples for the East on the 8th, 18th and 28th at 2 p. m. every month. Also the other ports at- fre quent intervals, for full particulars apply at the office. Society for the protection of Animals in Rome, 30 via San Marco. Theatres. Apollo. Via Tordinona. — Argentina. Via Torre Argentina. — Corea. Via dei Pontefici. — Capranica. Piazza degli Orfanelli. — Metastasio. Via Pallacorda. — Politeama Romano. Trastevere. — ¦ Quirino- Via delle Vergini. — Valle. Via Teatro Valle, — Valletta. Piazza della Valle. — Rossini. Via, di Santa Chiara. — Sferisterio. Via Quattro Fontane. Tickets can be bought and seats secured in the morning. . The only way of knowing what will be performed in the evening, is to consult the daily papers and the posters. 206 ADVERTISEMENTS of the BRITISH AND AMERICAN LEGATIONS by special appointment to their Royal highnesses the Prince of "Wales and the Prince of Piedmont SINIMBERGHI Pharmaceutical Chemist of the London and Roman Universities. English prescriptions carefully prepared by qualified En glish assistants only. 64. 65, 66 Via Condotti ROME. QUOTED IN "Murray's Hand-Book for J4oine'( By S. R. -Forbes Price K/> Franc. Signor MAZZOLINI'S STUDIO 12 Monte Citorio, ROME p. p. We recommended our fellow-countrymen and American Cousins to pay a visit to this interesting Atelier before leaving Rome. Signor Mazzolini is an artist of high standing and great reputation and his beautiful works must be seen to be appreciated. His paintings form quite a gallery and should be visited, like the other galleries of Rome, by all lovers of the fine arts, whether they wish to admire or pnrchase. IL Tourist Conductors and Hotel Contractors 142 Strana, London, f . C. HOTEL COUPONS Ensure accommodation at First Class Hotels, Effect a G'-eat saving of expense and trouble, Prevent all discussion as to terms,- and Obviate inconvenient Payments in Foreign monies, The use of Hotel Coupons has such evident advantages that it is becoming more general in its adoption every season. During the past year their issue by Mr. Gaze was more than sixfold that of the preceeding season. The benefits derivable from their use are evidently so appreciated that before long few will travel without them. The following is a statement of what the Hotel Proprietor supplies for the same : — Ist Coupon — Room, Light, and Service Entitles the holder to a comfortable Bedroom, with Lights and Attendance. Omnibus and Porterage not being included. 2nd Coupon — Breakfast or Tea Consisting of Tea or Coffee, with either Bacon, or Ham, Meat, or Eggs. 3rd Coupon — Dinner Available at the Table d'Hote, with or without Wine, as customary at the Hotel. These combined form a day's expenditure of EIGHT SHILLINGS AND SIXPENCE PEB DAY. ENGLISH CURRENCY. They are issued with or without Travelling Tickets, at the convenience of the purchasser. These Coupons are cheaper than any others now offered to the public, as they are the only Tickets providing a substan tial Meat Breakfast without extra charge or supplemental Coupons. 208 ROCCHEGIANI Artist, Manufactory of Mosaics. Large collection of pain tings, Tables, Paper Weights, Bracelets. Brooches, Studs, etc. Fixed prices. Medals from several Exhibitions. Furnisher to the Royal Family. 13, 14, 15 Via Condotti 10 Piazza di Spagna ROME PHOTOGRAPHS Mr J. I-I. Parker's 3300 historical photographs of Rome, can only be ootained of I. <¥M@lpg J#J Tm Mlmm price 1 lire each. They are distinguished from the ordinary photographs by each having a printed label giving the date, of the buil ding and by having a scale in the view whenever it is wanted. On this scale of six feet, each foot is painted alternatively black and white so that the size of the stones and the thickness of the bricks can be seen in the phutograph the same as in the construction. This is also the only series of photographs which contains the Mosaic pictures in the Churches and the Frescjes in the Catacombs taken with magnesin light. Especially recommended to visitors for its good cookery and moderate prices. Wines of the -best Italian vintage. Breakfast at 1 .20 Coffee or Tea Bread and Butter Two Eggs. Dinner at 3.60 Soup, 3 courses of meat Vegotab'es Salad, Sweet. Dessert, Wine. Lunch at 2.00 Wine, tea, or coffee 2 courses of meat, '¦ Dessert. 7 Bocca di Leone, 'near the via Fraltimi). YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY