Gift of

Rev. James T. Dickinson
1884

J O U R N E Y

THROUGH

HOLLAND, &c.
MADE IN THE SUMMER OF 1794.

A
JOURNEY MADE IN THE SUMMER OF 1794,
THROUGH
HOLLAND AND THE
WESTERN FRONTIER OF GERMANY,
WITH A
RETURN DOWN THE RHINE :
TO WHtCH ARE ADDED
OBSERVATIONS DU RING A T OUR TO
THE LAKES OF
LANCASHIRE, WESTMORELAND, and CUMBERLAND.

IN TWO VOLUMES,  VOL. II.

SECOND EDITION.

By ANN RADCLIFFE.

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR. G. G. AND J. ROBINSON, P ATEKNOSTEJS.-KOW.
MDCCXCY.

JOURNEY, &c

FRIBURG

Is an antient Imperial city and the
capital ofthe Brifgau. Its name alludes to
the privileges granted to fuch cities ; but its
prefent condition, like that of many others,
is a proof of the virtual difcontinuance of
the rights, by which the Sovereign intended
to invite to one part of his dominions the
advantages of commerce. Its appearance is
that, which we have fo often defcribed ;
better than Cologne, and worfe than Mentz ;
vol. ii. B its

i GERMANY.
its fize is about a third part of the latter
city. On defcending to it, the firft diftin£t
object is the fpire of the great church, a
remarkable ftrudture, the flones of which
are laid with open interfaces, fo that the
light appears through its tapering fides. Of
this fort of flone fillagree work there are:
faid to be other fpecimens in Germany.]
The city was once flrongly fortified, and;
has endured fome celebrated fieges. In
1677, 1 713, and 1745 it was taken by the
French, who, in the latter year, deftroyed
all the fortifications,, which had rendered it
formidable* and left nothing but the prefent
walls. Being, however, a frontier place towards"
Switzerland, it is provided with a fmatt
Ainlrian garrifon ; and the bufinefs" of per
mitting, or preventing the paffage of travel
lers into that country Hs entrufted to its
officers. The malignity, or ignorance of
one of thefe, called the Lieutenant de Place,
prevented

GERMANY. $
prevented us from reaching it, after a jour
ney of more than fix hundred miles; a
difappointment, which no perfon could bear
without fevere regret, but which was alloy
ed to us by the reports we daily heard of
fome approaching change in Switzerland
unfavourable to England, and by a con-
fcioufnefs of the deduction which, in fpite
of all endeavours at abftra&ion, encroach*
ments upon phyfical comfort and upon the
aflurance of peacefulnefs make from the dif-
pofition to enquiry, or fancy.
We had delivered at the gate the German
paffport, recommended to us by M. de
$chWartzkoff, and which had been figned
•by the Commandant at Mentz j the man,
who took it, promifing to bring it properly
attefted to our inn. He returned without
the pafTport, and, as we afterwards found,
carried our voituner to be examined by an
officer. We endeavoured in vain to^obtain
B 2 an

4 GERMANY.
art explanation, as to this delay and appear
ance of fiifpicion, till, at fu'pper, the Lieute
nant de1 Place announced himfelf, and pre-
fently fhewed, that he was not come to offer
apologies. This man, an illiterate Pied-
montefe in the Auftrian fervice, either be
lieved, or affected to do fo, that our name
was not Radcliffe, but fomethiing like it,
with a German termination} and that we
were not Englifh, but Germans. Neither
my Lord Grenville's, or M. de Schwartz-
kofFs paflports, our letters from London
to families in Switzerland, nor one of credit
from the MefTrs. Hopes of Amfterdam to
the Banking-houfe of Porta at Laufanney
all of which he pretended to examine, could
remove this difcerning fufpicion as to our
country. While we were confidering, as
much as vexation would permit, what cir-
cumftance could have afforded a pretext for
any part of .this intrufion, It came out in
cidentally,

GERMANY. ' . s
cldentally, that the confirmation given to
our pauport at Mentz, which we had, never
examined, expreffed " returning . to^ Eng
land," though the pafs itfelf was for Bafil,
to which place we were upon pur route.
, . Such a contradiction might certainly
have j uftified fome delay, if we had not
been enabled to prove it accidental to the
fatisfadtion of any perfori defirous of being
right. The pafipprt had been produced at
Mentz, together with thofe of two Engllfh
artifts, then on their return from Rome,
whom we had the pleafure tp lee at Franck-
fprt. -The Secretary infcribeji ..all the paft-
ports alike for England, and M. de Luca-
dou, the Commandant, haftily figned ours,
without obferying the miftake, though he
fo well knew us tb be upon the road to
Switzerland, that he politely endeavoured
to render us fome fervice there. Our friends
in Mentz being known to him, he defired
usr to accept an addrefs from Uhnfelf to M.
B3 de

6 OEkMANf.
de Wilde, Intendant of fait mines near Bee,
We produced to Mr. Lieutenant this ad
drefs, as a proof, that the Commandant both
knew us, and where we were going ; but
it foon appeared, that, though the former
might have honeftly fallen into his fufpi-
cions at firft, he had a malignant obftinacy
in refufing to abandon them. He left us,
with notice that we could npt quit the town
without recpiving the Commandant's per-
miflion by his means ; and it was with
fome terror, that we perceived ourfelves to.
be fo much in his power, in a place where
there was a pretext for military authority,
and where the leaft expreffion of juft indig-r
nation feemed to provoke a difpofition for
further injuftice.
The only relief, which could be hinted tp
us, was to write to the Commandant at
- .¦'-¦i'-" A ' ' ' ' '
Merttz, who might re-teftify his know
ledge of our deftination ; yet, as an anfwec
could not be received in' lefs than eightdays?

GERMANY 7
days, and, as imagination fuggefted not only
all the poflible horrors of oppreffion, during
that period, but all the contrivances, by
which the malignant difpofition we had
already experienced, might even then be
prevented from difappointment, we looked
upon this refource as little better than the
worft, and refolved in the morning to de
mand leave for an immediate return to
Mentz. There being then fome witneffes to the
application, the Lieutenant conducted him-
felf with more propriety, and even propofed
an introduction to the Commandant, to
whom we could not before hear of any
direct means of accefs ; there being a pofii-
bility, he faid, that a paffage into Switzer
land might be permitted. But the difguft
of Auftrian authority was now fo complete,
that we were not difpofed to rifk the mock
ery of an appeal. The Lieutenant expreffed
hfe readinefs . to allow our paffage, if we
B 4 fliould

8 , GERMANY.
fhould choofe to returns from Mentz .with.
another paffport ; but we had no intention
to be ever again in his power, and, affuring
him that we fhould not return, left Friburg
without the hope of penetrating through the
experienced, and prefent difficulties of Ger
many, into the far-feen delights of- Swit
zerland. As thofe, who leave one home for ano
ther, think, in the firft part of their journey,
of the friends they have left, and, in the
laft, of thofe, to whom they are going; fo
we, in quitting the borders of Switzerland,
thought only of that country ; and, when
we regained the eminence from whence the
tops of its mountains had been fo lately
viewed with enthufiaftic hope, all this de
lightful expectation occurred again to the
mind, only to torture it with the certainty
ofour'lofs; but, as the diflance from Swit^
zerland increafed, the attractions of home
gathered ftrength, and the inconveniences

GERMANY. 9
of Germany, which had been fo readily fe'jt
'before, could fcarcely be noticed when we
,knew them to lie in the road to England.
We paused Offenburg, on the firft day of
.our return* and, travelling till midnight, as
is cuftomary in Germany during the fum-
mer, traverfed the unufual fpace of fifty
miles in fourteen hours. Soon after paffing
Appenweyer we overtook the rear-guard of
the army, the advanced party of which we
had met at that place three nights before.
The- troops were then quartered in the vil
lages near the road, and their narrow wag-
.gons were fometimes drawn up,, on both
.: fides of it. They had probably but lately
feparated, for there were parties of French
ladies and gentlemen, who feemed to have
faken the benefit of moonlight to be fpecta-
... tors, and fome of the glow-worms, that had
been numerous onthe banks, now glittered
yery prettily in the hair ofthe former.
At Biel, a fmall; town, which we reached about

Xo GERMANY.
about midnight, the ftreet was rendered
nearly impaffable by military carriages, and
we were furprifed to find, that every room
in the inn was not occupied by troops ; but
one muft have been very faftidious to have
complained of any part of our reception
here. As to lodging, though the apartment
was as bare as is ufual in Germany, there
was the infcription of " Chambre de Mbn-
fieUr" over the door, and on another near
it " Chambre de Conde le Grand ;" perfon-
kges, who, it appeared, had once been ac
commodated there, for the honour of which
the landlord chofe to retain their infcrip-
tions. Their meeting here was probably in
1 791, foon after the departure of the former
From France.
The fecond day's journey brought us
again to Schwetzingen, from whence we
hoped to have reached Manheim, that
night ; but the poft horfes were all out, and
none others could be hired, the village being
obliged

GERMANY. n
obliged to furnifh a certain number for the
carriage of ftores to the Auftrian army.
Eighteen of thefe we had met, an hour be
fore, drawing flowly in one waggon, laden
with cannon balls. We flayed the follow
ing day at Manheim, and, on the next,
reached Mentz, where our ftatement of the
obftruction at Friburg excited lefs furprife
than indignation, the want of agreement
.between the Auftrian and Pruffian officers
being fuch, that the former, who are fre
quently perfons of the loweft education, arc
faid to neglect no opportunity of preyiijg
upon accidental miftakes in paffports^or
other bufinefs, committed by the Pruffians.
Before our departure we were, however,
affured, that a proper reprefentation of, the
affair had been fent by the firft eftaffette to
the Commandant at Friburg. - . jV .....
Further intelligence of cthe^courfe1;4of
affairs in Flanders was now made known an
Germany ; arid our regrets, relative to Swit
zerland.

12 GERMANY
Zealand, were leffened by the apparent pro
bability, that, a return homeward might in
a few months be rendered difficult by fome
ftill more, unfortunate events to the allies.
Several effects of the late reyerfes and fymp-
tonls ofthe general alarm were indeed, al
ready apparent at Mentz. Our inn was
filled with refugees not only from Flanders,
butfrpm Liege, which the French had not
then threatened. ' Some of tlie emigrants of
the latter nation, in quitting the places
where they had temporarily fettled, abanr
doned their only means of livelihood, and
feveral parties . arrived in a ftate almoft too
diftrefsful to be repeated. Ladies and chil
dren, who had paffed the night in fieids,
came with fo, little property, and fo little
appearance of any, that they were refufe4
admittance, at many inns; for fome others,
it feemed, afttr refting a day or two, could
offer only .tears and lamentations, inftead of
payment, Our good landlord, Philip B0I2,
relieved.

GERMANY. ij
relieved • feveral, arid others had a little cha
rity from individuals ; but, as far as we faw
and heard, the Germans very feldom afford
ed them even the confolations of compaf-
fion and tender manners.
Mentz is the ufual place of embark ment
for a voyage down the Rhine, the celebrated
fcenery of whofe banks we determined td
view, as fome compenfation for the lofs of
Switzerland. We were alfo glad to efcape
a* repetition of the fatigues of travel by
land, now that thefe were to be attended
with the uncertainties occafioned by any un-
ufual influx of travellers upon the roads.
The bufinefs of fupplying poft-horfes is
here not the private undertaking of the
innkeepers; fo that the emulation and civi
lity, which might be excited by their views
of profit, are entirely wanting. The Prince
'de la Tour Taxis is:the Hereditary Grand
Poft-mafter of the Empire,"an office, which
has raifed his family from the ftation of
private

i4 . GERMANY.
private Counts, to a feat in the College ot
Princes. He has a monopoly of the profits
arifing from this concern, for which he is
obliged to forward all the Imperial packets
gratis. A fettled number of horfes and a
poft-mafter are kept at every ftage; where
the arms of the Prince, and fome line en
treating a bleffing upon the poft, diftinguifh-
the door of his office. The poftmafter
determines, according to the number of
travellers and the quantity of baggage, how
many horfes muft be hired ; three perfons
cannot be allowed to proceed with lefs than
three horfes, and he will generally endea
vour to fend out as many horfes as there
are perfons.
The price for each horfe was eftablifhed
at one florin, or twenty pence per poft, but,
on account of the war, a florin and an
half is now paid ; half a florin is alfo due
for the carriage ; and the poftillion is enti
tled to a trinkgeld, or drink-money, of ano ther

GERMANY. r?
ther half florin ; but, unlefs he is promifed
more than this at the beginning ofthe ftage,
he will probeed only at the regulated pace
of four hours for each poft, which may be
reckoned at ten or twelve Englifh miles.
We foon learned the way of quickening
him, and, in the Palatinate and the Brif-
gau, where the roads are good, could pro
ceed nearly as faft as we wifhed, amount
ing to about five miles an hour.
If the poftmafter fupplies a carriage, he
demands half a florin per ftage for it ; but
the whole expence of a chaife and two
horfes, including the tolls and the trinkgeldy
which word the poftillions accommodate to
Englifh ears by pronouncing it drinkhealth%
does not exceed eight pence per mile. We
are-j. however, to caution all perfons againft
fuppofing, as we did, that the chaifes of the
poft muft be proper ones, and that the ne-
ceffity of buying a carriage, which may be
irrged:*o them, is merely that of fhewj thefe

1 6* GERMANY
thefe chaifes are more inconvenient and'
filthy, than any travelling carriage, ,feen in
England, can give an idea ofy and a Granger,
fhould not enter Germany, before he has
purchafed a carriage, which will probably;
eoft twenty pounds in Holland and fell for
fifteen, at his return. Having negle&ed,
this, we efcaped from the chaifes de pq/ie
as often as poffible, by hiring thofe of voi-
turiers, whofe price is about half as much.
again as that ofthe poft.
The regular drivers wear a fort of uni
form, confifting ofa yellow coat, with black
cuffs and cape, a fmall bugle horrt, flung
over the fhoulders, and a yellow fafh. At
the entrance of towns and narrow paffes,
they fometimes found the horn, playing
upon it a perfect and not unpleafant tune*
the mufic of their order. All other car
riages give way to theirs, and perfons tra
velling with them are confidered to be un7
der the protection of the Empire ; fo thatj/

if

GERMANY 17
IF-the^were robbed, information would be
forwarded from one poft-houfe to another
throughout all Germany, and it would
become a common caufe to detect the
aggreffors. On this account, and becaufe
there can be no concealment in a country
fo little populous, highway robberies are
almoft unknown in it, and the fear of them
is never mentioned. The Germans, who,
in fummer, travel chiefly by night, are fel-
dom armed, and are fo far from thinking
even watchfulnefs neceffary, that ,moft of
their carriages, though open in front, during
the day-time, are contrived with curtains
and benches, in order to promote reft. The
ppft-mafters alfo allure you, that, if there
were robbers, they would content them-
felves with attacking private voituriers,
without violating the facrednefs of the poft ;
and the fecurity of the poftillions is fo
ftrictly attended tp, that no man dare ftrike
them, while they have the. yellow coat on.
vol. 11. C la

i% GERMANY.
In difputes with their paffengers they have"#
therefore, fometimes been known to put off
this coat, in order to fhew, that they do not
claim the extraordinary protection of the
laws. Thefe poftillions acknowledge no obliga
tion fo travellers, who ufually give double
What can be demanded, and feem to con
sider them only as fo many bales of goods1,
which they are under a contract with the
poftmafter to deliver at a certain place and
¦within a certain time. Knowing, that their
flownefs, if there is no addition to their
trinkgeld, is of itfelf fufficient to compel.
fome gratuity, they do not depart from the
German luxury of incivility, and frequent
ly return noanfwer, when they are ques
tioned, as to diftance, or delired to call the
fervant of an inn, or to quit the worft part
of a road. When you tell them, that they
'fhall have a good drinkhealthiox fpeed, they
*eply, " Yaw, yaw •" and, after that, think 'it

GERMANY. 19
it unneceflary to reply to any enquiry till
they afk you for the money at the end of
a ftage. They are all provided with tobaccp
boxes and combuftible bark, on which they
flop to ftrike with a flint and fteel, imme
diately after leaving their town ; in , the
hotteft day and on the moft dufty road,
they will begin to -fmoke, though every,
whiff flies into the faces of the paffengers
behind ; and it muft be fome very pofitiye
interference, that prevents them from con
tinuing it.
As long as there are horfes not engaged
at any poft-houfe, the people are bound to
jfupply travellers, within half an hour after
their /arrival ; but all the German Princes
and many of their Minifters are permit-
-ted to engage the whole flock on the
road they intend to pafs ; and it frequently
^happens, that individuals may be detained
a dav, or even two, by fuch an order, if
ithere fhould be no voiturier to furnifh them
C 2 with

?o GERMANY.
with others. At Cologne and Bonn, wherj
we were firft there, all the horfes were or
dered for the Emperor, who paffed through,
however, with only one carriage, accom-
1 panied by an Aide-de-camp and followed
by two fervants, on horfeback. It happens
alfo frequently,, that a fudden throng of
private travellers has employed the whole
llock of the poft- mailers ; and the prefent
emigrations from Liege and Juliers, we
were affured, had filled the roads fo much,.
that we might be frequently detained in
fmall towns, and fhould find even the beft
overwhelmed with crowds of fugitives.
During a flay of five days at Mentz,
we often wandered amid ft the ruins of the
late /lege, efpecially on the fite of the
Favorita, from whence the majeftie Rhine
is feen rolling from one chain of mountains
to another. Near this fpot, and not lefs
fortunately fituated, flood a Carthufian con-
ventr known in Englifh hlftory for having. been

GERMANY. ^r
been the head- quarters of George the Se
cond, in the year 1743, foon after the battle
of Dettingen. The apartments, ufed by
this monarch, were preferred in the flate,
in which he left them, till a fhort time be-
.. fore the late fiege, when the whole building
was demolifhed, fo that fcarcely a trace of
it now remains.
By our enquiries for a paffage veffel we
difcovered the unpleafant truth, that the
dread of another invafion liegan now to
be felt at Mentz, where, a fortnight be
fore, not a fymptom of it was difcernible.
Several (of the inhabitants had hired boats
to be in readinefs for tranfporting their
effects to Franckfort, if the French fhould
approach much nearer to the Rhine ; and
our friends, when we mentioned the cir-
cumftance, confeffed, that they were pre
paring for a removal to Saxony. The flate
of the arfenal had been lately enquired into,
xMf-and a; deficiency^. which was whifpered to
C 3 have

22- GERMANY.
have been difcovered in the gunpowder,
was imputed to the want of ; cordiality be
tween the Auftrians and Pruffians, pf whom
the latter, being uncertain that they fhould
flay in the place, had refufed to replenifb,
the flores, at their own expence, and the
former would not fpare their ammunition,
till the departure of the Pruffians fhould
leave it to be guarded by themfelves. The
communication with the other fhore of the
Rhine, by the bridge and the fortifications
of CafTel, fecured, however, to a German
garrifon the opportunity of receiving fupr
plies, even if the French fhould occupy alj
the weftern bank of the river,

VOYAGE

GERMANY- 23

VOYAGE down the RHINE.
' ' 3d"' n--'
The boats, to be hired at Mentz,
are awkward imitations of the Dutch trecht^
fchuyts, or what, upon the Thames, would
be called Houfe-boats ; but, for the fake of
being allowed to difpofe of one as the va
rieties of the voyage fhould feem to tempt,
we gave four louis for the ufe of a cabin,
between Mentz and Cologne ; the boatmen
being permitted to take paffengers in the
other part of the veffel. In this we em
barked at fix o'clock, on a delightful morn
ing in the latter end of July, and, as we
left the fhore, had leifure to obferve the
city in a new point of view, the moft pic-
turefque we had feen. Its principal fea
tures were the high quays called the Rhein-
ftraffe, the caftellated palace, with its gothic
furrets, of pale red ftone, the arfe.nal, the
C 4 lofty

34 GERMANY.
lofty ramparts, far extended along the river,
and the northern gate ; the long bridge of
boats completed the fore-groiind, and fome
foreft hills the picture.
We foon paffed the wpoded ifland, called
Peters-au, of fo much confequence, during'
the fiege, for its command of the bridge ;
and, approaching the mountains of the
Rheingau to the north, the moft fublime
in this horizon, faw their fummits veiled in.
flouds, while the fun foon melted the mifls,
that dimmed their lower fides, and brought
out their various colouring of wood, con*
and foils, ¦ It was, however, nearly two
hours before the windings of the Rhine
permitted us to reach any of their bafes.
Meanwhile the river flowed through highly
Cultivated plains, chiefly of corn, with vil
lages thickly fcattered on its banks, in which
are the country houfes of the richer inhabi
tants of Mentz, among pleafant' orchards
and vineyards. Thofe on the right bank are

GERMANY. 25
are in the dominions of the Prince of
Naffau Ufingen, who has a large chateau
in the midft of them, once tenanted, sfor a
night, by George the Second, and the Duke
of Cumberland,
The Rhine is here, and for feveral
leagues downward, of a very noble breadth,
perhaps wider than in any other part of
its German courfe ; and its furface is ani
mated by many iflands covered with pop
lars and low wood. . The weftern fhore,
often fringed with pine and elms, is flat ;
but the eaftern begins to fwell into hillocks
near Wallauf, the laft village of Naffau
Ufingen, and once fomewhat fortified.
Here the Rheingau, or the country of
the vines, commences^ and we approached
the northern mountains, which rife on the
right in fine fweeping undulations. Thefe
jncreafed in dignity as we advanced, and
their fummits then appeared to be darkened
with heath and woods, which form part of
-re . 2 the

zfr GERMANY.
the extenfive foreft of Landefwald, or
Woodland. Hitherto the fcenery had been
open and pleafant only, but now the eaftern
fhore began to be romantic, flarting into
heights, fo abrupt, that the vineyards al-
moft overhung , the river, and opening to
foreft glens, among, the mountains. Still,
however, towns and villages perpetually oc
curred, and the banks of the river were
populous, though not a veffel befides our
own appeared upon it.
On the eaftern margin are two finall
towns, Oder and Niederingelheim, which,
in the midft of the dominions of Mentz,
belong to the Elector Palatine. On this
fhore alfo is made one of the celebrated
wines of the Rhine, called Markerbrunner,
which ranks next to thofe of johannefberg
and Hoekheim. At no great diftance on
the fame fhore, but beneath a bank fome*,
what more abrupt, is the former of thefe
places, alienated in the fixteenth century from

GERMANY. 27
from the dominions of Mentz, to thofe of
the Abbot, now Prince Bifhop of Fulde.
The wine of the neighbouring fleeps is
the higheft priced of all the numerous forts
of Rhenifh ; a bottle felling upon the fpot,.
where it is leaft likely to be pure, for three,
four, or five "fhillirigs, according to the vin
tages, the merits and diftinctions of which
are in the memory of almoft every German.
That of 1786 was the moft celebrated fince
1 779 ; but we continually heard that the
heat of 1 794 would render this year equal
in fame to any of the others.
Behind the village is the large and well-
built abbey of Johannefberg, rich with all
this produce, for the fecurity of which
there are immenfe cellars, cut in the rock
below, faid to be capable of containing fe
veral thoufand tons of wine. The abbey
was founded in 1 1 05 ; and there is * a long
hiftory 6f changes pertaining to it, till it
came into the poffeffion of the Abbot of
Fuldej

a3 GERMANY.
Fulde, who rebuilt it in its prefent flate.
This part of the Rheingau is, indeed, thick
ly fet with fimilar edifices, having, in a.
fhort fpace, the nunnery of Marienthal,
and the monafteries of Nothgottes, Aulen-
haufen, and Eibingen.
Further on is the large modern chateau
of Count Oftein, a nobleman of great
wealth, and, as it appears, of not lefs tafle.
Having difpofed all his nearer grounds in
a flyle for the mofr part Englifh, he has
had recourfe to the ridge of precipices, that
rifer over* the river, for fubiimity and gran
deur of profpect. On the brink of thefe
woody heights, feveral pavilions have been
erected, from the molt confpicuous of which
Coblentz, it is faid, may be diftinguifhed,'
at the diftance of forty miles. The view
muft be aftonifhingly. grand, for to the
fouth-eaft the eye overlooks, all the fine
country of the Rheingau to Mentz,; tp the
weft, the couife of the. Mofelle towards
France;

GERMANY. 29
France ; and, to the north, the chaos of
wild mountains, that fcreen the Rhine in
its progrefs to Coblentz.
So general was the alarm of invafion,
that Count Oftein had already withdrawn
into the interior of Germany, and was en
deavouring to difpofe of this charming re-
fidence, partly protected as it is by the
river, at the very difadvantageous- price now
paid for eftates on the weftern frontier of
the Empire.
The vineyards, that fucceed, are proofs
of the induftry and fkill to which the Ger
mans are accuftomed in this part of their
labours, the fcanty foil being prevented" from
falling down the almoft perpendicular rocks,
by walls that frequently require fome new
toil from the careful farmer. Every addi
tion,' made to the mould, muft be carried
in bafkets upl the fleep paths, or rather
ftaircafes,q cut in the folid rock. At the
time of the vintage, when thefe precipices are

30 GERMANY.
are thronged with people, and the founds
of merriment are echoed along them, the
fpectacle muft here be as flriking and gay
as can be painted by fancy.

BINGEN.

About eleven o'clock, we reached
Bingen, a town of which the antiquity is
fo clear, that one of its gates is flill called
Drufithor, or, the gate of Drufus. Its ap
pearance, however, is neither rendered ve
nerable by age, or neat by novelty. The
prefent buildings were all raifed in the dif-
trefs and confufion produced in 1 689^ after
Louis,. the Fourteenth had blown up the
fortifications, that endured a tedious fiege in
the .beginning of the century, and had de-
ftroyed the; city* in which Drufus is faid to
have died.
- ,,It has now the appearance, which we
have

GERMANY. 3$
have often mentioned is characteriftic of
moft German towns, nearly every houfe
being covered with fymptoms of decay and
neglect, and the ftreets abandoned to a few
idle paffengers. Yet'Bingen has the ad
vantage of flanding at the conflux of two
rivers, the Nahe making there its junction
with the Rhine ; and an antient German
book mentions it as the central place of an
hundred villages, or chateaux, the inhabi
tants of which might come to its market
and return between fun-rife and fun-fet.
Since the revolution in France, it ha3
occafionally been much the* refidence of
emigrants; and, in a plain behind the town,
which was pointed out to us, the King of
Pruffia reviewed their army before the en'-
trance into France in 1792. A part of his
fpeech was repeated to us by a gentleman
who bore a high commiffion in it ; " Gen
tlemen, be tranquil and happy ; in a little
time

33 GERMANY
time I fhall conduct you to your homes atld
your property."
Our companion, as he remembered the
hopes excited by this fpeech, was deeply
affected ; an emigrant officer, of whom, as
Well as of an Ex-Nobleman of the fame
nation, with the latter of whom we parted
here, we muft paufe to fay, that had the
old fyftem in France, oppreffive as it was,
and injurious as Englifhmen were once
juftly taught to believe it, been univerfally
adminiflered by men of their mildnefs, in
tegrity and benevolence, it could not have
been entirely overthrown by all the theories,
or all the eloquence in the world.
Soon after this review, the march com
menced ; the general effect of which it is
unneceffary to repeat. When the retreat
was ordered, the emigrant army, comprifing
feventy fquadrons of cavalry, was declared
by the King of Pruffia to be difbanded, and not

GERMANY 33
not any perfon was allowed to retain an
horfe, or arms. No other purchafers were
prefent but the Pruffians, and, in confe-
quence of this order, the fineft horfes, many
of which had cod forty louis each, were
now fold for four or five, fome even for
one ! It refulted accidentally, no doubt,
from this meafure, that the Pruffian . army
was thus reprovided with horfes almoft as
cheaply as if they had feized them from
Dumourier. Bingen was taken by the French in the
latter end of the campaign of 1792, and
was then nearly the northernmoft of their
pofts on the Rhine., It was regained by
the Pruffians in their advances to Mentz,
at the; commencement of the next cam
paign, and has fince occafionally ferved
them as a depot of flores.
This town, feated on the low weftern
margin, .furrounded with its old walls, and,
overtopped by its ruined caftle, harmonizes
vol. 11. D well

34 GERMANY.
well with the gloomy grandeur near it J
and here the afpedt of the cPuntry changes
to a character awfully wild. The Rhine,
after expanding to a great breadth, at its
Conflux with the Nahe, fuddenly contracts
Itfelf, and winds with an abrupt and rapid
fweep among the dark and tremendous
rocks, that clofe the perfpective. Then,
difappearing beyond them, it leaves the
imagination to paint the dangers of its
courfe. Near the entrance of this clofe pafs,
Hands the town of Bingen, immediately op-
pofite to which appear the ruins of the
caftle of Ebrenfels; on a cliff highly elevated
above the water, broken, craggy and im
pending, but with vines crawling in nar
row crevices, and other rocks flill afpiring
above it. On an ifland between thefe
ihores, is a third ruined caftle, very antient,
and of which little more than one tower
remains. This is called Maufthurm; or,
The Tower of the Rats, from a-marvellous tradition,

GERMANY. '$$
tradition, that, in the tenth century, an
Archbifhop Statto was devoured there by
thefe animals, after many cruelties to the
poor, whom he called Rats, that eat the
bread of the rich.

EHRENFELS.

Ehrenfels is fynonymous to Ma-
jeftic, or Noble Rock ; and Fels, which is
the prefent term for rock in all the northern
counties of England, as well as in Germany,
is among feveral inflances of exact fimila-
rity, as there are many of refemblance, be-
, tween the prefent Britifh and German lan
guages. A German of the fouthern dif-
tricts, meaning to enquire what you would
have, fays, " Was ivoll zu haben f and in
the north there is a fort- of Patois, called
Plat . Deutfche, which brings the words
much nearer to our own. In both parts the
D 2 accent.

36* GERMANY.
accent, or rather tone, is that, which pre*
vails in Scotland and the adjoining counties
of England. To exprefs a temperate ap
probation of 'what they hear, the Germans
fay, " So— fo ;" pronouncing the words
flowly and long ; exactly as our brethren
of Scotland would. In a printed narrative
of the fiege of Mentz there is this paffage,
" Funfzehn bunder t menfchen, meijlens wei-
ber mid* kinder  nvanderten mit dem
bundel wider dem arm uber die brucke ;**—
Fifteen hundred perfons, moftly wives and
children, wandered, with their bundles un
der their arms, upon the bridge. So per
manent has been the influence over our
language, which the Saxons acquired by
their eftablifhment of more than five cen
turies amongft us ; exiling the antient Bri-
tifh tongue to the mountains of Scotland
and Wales ; and afterwards, when incor
porated with this, refilling the perfecution
of the Normans ; rather improving than
yielding

GERMANY. ^
yielding under their endeavours to extir
pate it. The injuries of the Bifhop of Win-
chefter, who, in Henry the Second's time,
was deprived of his fee for being " an Eng-
li/h ideot, that could not /peak French" one
would fondly imagine had the effect due to
all perfecutions, that of ftrengthening, not
fubduing their objects.
After parting with fome of the friends,
who had accompanied us from Mentz, and
taking in provifion for the voyage, our oars
were again plyed, and we approached Bin-
gerloch, the commencement of that tre
mendous pafs of rocky mountains, which
enclofe the Rhine nearly as far as Coblentz.
Bingerloch is one of the moft dangerous
parts of the river ; that, being here at once
impelled by the waters of the Nahe, com-
preffed by the projection of its boundaries,
and irritated by hidden rocks in its current,
makes an abrupt defcent, frequently ren
dered further dangerous by whirlpools.
D 3 Several

38 GERMANY.
Several German authors affert, that a part
of the Rhine here takes a channel beneath
its general bed, from which it does not
ifiue, till it reaches St. Goar, a diftance of
probably twenty miles. The fprce and
rapidity of the ftream, the afpect of the
dark disjointed cliffs, under which we
paffed, and the flrength of the wind, op-
pofing our entrance among their chafms,
and uniting with the founding force of the
waters to baffle the dexterity pf the boat
men, who ftruggled hard to prevent the
veffel from being whirled round, were cir-
cumftances of the true- fublime, infpiring
terror in fome and admiration in a high,
degree. Reviewing this now, in the leifure 6f
recollection, thefe nervous lines of Thomfon
appear to defcribe much of the fcene ;
The rous'd up riyer pours along;
Refifllefs, roaring, dreadful, down it comes
From the rude mountain, and thp mofly wild,
Tumbling

GERMANY. 39
Tumbling thro' rocks abrupt, and founding far,
r- - — — — _ —  again conftrain'd
Between two meeting hills, it burfts away,
Where rocks and woods o'erhang the turbid
flream ;
There gathering triple force, rapid, and deep,
Jt boils, and wheels, and foams, and thunders
through.
Having doubled the fharp promontory,
that alters the courfe of the river, we faw in
perfpective fometimes perpendicular rocks,
and then mountains dark with dwarf-woods,
fhopting their precipices over the margin of
the water ; a boundary which, for many
leagues, was not broken, on either margin,
except where, by fome flight receding, the
rocks embofomed villages, lying on the edge
of the river, and once guarded them by the
antient caftles on their points. A ftormy
day, with frequent fhowers, obfcured the
fcenery, making it appear dreary, without
D 4 increafing

40 GERMANY..
increafing its gloomy grandeur; but we
had leifure to obferve every venerable ruin,
that feemed to tell the religious, or military
hiftory 'of the country. The firft of thefe
beyond Bingen, is the old caftle of Bauz-
.berg, and, hext, the church of St. Clement,
built in a place once greatly infefted by
¦robbers. There are then the modern caftle
of Konigftein, in wh*ich the French were
befieged in 1793, and the remains ofthe
old one, deferted for more than two hun
dred years. Oppofite to thefe is the village
of AtTmans, or Hafemanfhaufen, celebrated
for the flavour of its wines ; and near them
was formerly a warm bath, fupplied by a
fpring, now loft from its fource to the
Rhine, notwithflanding many expenfive
fearches to regain it. About a mile farther,
is the antient caftle of Falkenburg, and be
low it the village of Drechfen ; then the
luins of an extenfive chateau, called Sonr
neck.

* GERMANY. 41
neck, beneath., which the Rhine expands,
and encircles two fmall iflands, that con
clude the diftridt of the Rheingau.
After paffing the fmall town of Lorricb,
on the eaftern bank, the Rhine is again
ftraightened by rocky precipices, and rolls
haftily paft the antient caftle of Furften-
berg, which gives its name to one of the
deareft wines of the Rhine.
We now reached Bacharach, a town on
the left bank of the river, forming part of
the widely fcattered dominions of the Elec
tor Palatine, who has attended to its pro-
fperity by permitting the Calvinifts and Lu
therans to eftablifh their forms of worfhip
there, under equal privileges with the Ro
man Catholics.
It has a confiderable commerce in Rhenifh
wine ; and its toll-houfe, near which all
yeffels are compelled to flop, adds confi-
derably to the revenues of the Palatinate.
For the purpofe of enforcing thefe, the an-»
tient.

42 GERMANY
tient caftle called Stahleck, founded in 1 190,
was probably built ; for Bacharach is the
oldeft town of the Palatinate, and has
fcarcely any hiftory between the period
when it was annexed to that dominion and
the departure of the Romans, who are fup*
pofed to have given it the name of Bacchi
arat and to1 have performed fome ceremo
nies to that deity upon a ftone, faid to be
ftill concealed in the Rhine. In the year
1654, 1695, 1 71 9, and 1750, when the
river was remarkably low, this ftone is re^
cprded to have been feen near the oppofite
ifland of Worth, and the country people
have given it the name of the Aelterjlein.
As this extreme lownefs ofthe waters never
happens but in the hptteft years, the fight
of the Aelterftein is earneftly defired, as the
fymptpm of a profperous vintage. The
river was unufually low when we paffed
the ifland, but we looked" in vain for this,
ftone, which is faid to be fo large, that five-
and^

GERMANY 43
and-twenty perfons may fland upon its
furface. Bacharach is in the lift of places, ruined
by Louis the Fourteenth in 1689. The
whole town was then fo carefully and me?
thodically plundered that the French com
mander, during the laft night of his flay,
had nothing to fleep on but flraw ; and,
the next day, this bedding was employed
in affifting to fet fire to the town, which,
syas prefently reduced to afhes.

PFALTZ.

AfiouT a mile lower is the ifland
of Pfaltz, or Pfalzgrafenftein, a place of
fuch antient importance in the hiftory of
the Palatinate, that it has given its name
to the whole territory in Germany called
Pfaltz. It was probably the firfl refidence
pf the Counts, the peaceable poffeffion of
which.

44 GERMANY.
Which was one means of attefting the right
to the Palatinate ; for, as a fign of fuch
poffeffion, it was antiently neceffary, that
the heir apparent fhould be born in a caftle,
which flill fubfifts in a repaired flate upon
it. This melancholy fortrefs is now -pro
vided with a garrifon of invalids, who are
chiefly employed in guarding flate prifoners,
and in giving notice to the neighbouring
toll-hpufe of Kaub, of the approach of vef-
fels on the Rhine. Being much fmaller
than is fuitable to the value placed upon it,
it is fecured from furprife by having no
entrance, except by a ladder, which is
drawn up at night.

KAUB,

GERMANY. 4$

KAUB.

Kaub, a Palatine town on the right
bank ofthe river, is alfo fortified, and claims
a toll upon the Rhine, notwithftanding its
neighbourhood to Bacharach ; an oppref-
fion, of which the expence is almoft the
leaft inconvenience, for the toll- gatherers
do not ' come to the boats, but demand,
that each fhould'ftop,, while one at leaft of
the crew goes on fhore, and tells the num
ber of his paffengers, who are alfo fome
times required to appear. The- officers do
not even think it neceffary to wait at. heme
for this information, and our boatmen had
frequently to fearch for them throughout
the towns. So familiar, however, is, this
. injuflice, that it never appeared to excite
furprife, or anger. The beat man dares not
proceed

46 GERMANY. .
proceed till he has found and fatisfied th«!
officers ; nor has he any means of com
pelling them to be punctual. Ours was
aftonifhed when we enquired, whether the
merchants, to whom fuch delays might
be important, could not have redrefs for
them. The flay we made at Kaub enabled us,
however, to perceive that fine flate made
a confiderable part of its traffic.
The Rhine, at Bacharach and ,Kaub, is
of great breadth ; and the dark mountains,
that afcend from its margin,. form a grand
vifta, with antient chateaux flill appearing
on the heights, and frequent villages edging
the ftream, or ftudded among the cliffs.
Though the diflrict of the Rheingau,
the vines of which are the moft celebrated,
terminated fome miles paft, the vineyards
are fcarcely lefs abundant here, covering the
lower rocks of the mountains, and creeping
along the fractures of their upper crags.
Thefe,

GERMANY. 47
Thefe, however, fometimes exhibit huge
projecting maffes and walls of granite, fo
entire and perpendicular, that not an hand-
ful of foil can lodge for the nourifhment
of any plant. They lie in vaft oblique
ftrata ; and, as in the valley of Andernach,
the angles of the promontories on one fhore
of the river frequently correfpond with the
receffes on the other.

OBERWESEL

1 5- another town, fupported by the
manufacture and trade of wines, which are,
however, here fhared by too many places
to beftow much wealth fingly upon any.
Wine is alfo fo important a production, that
all the Germans have fome degree of con-
noiffeurfhip in it, and can diftinguifh its
quantities and value fo readily, that the ad
vantage

4§ GERMANY
vantage of dealing in it cannot be great, ex-»
cept to thofe, who fupply foreign countries.
The merits of the different vineyards form
a frequent topic of converfation, and almoft
every perfon has his own fcale of their
rank ; running over with familiar fluency
the uncouth names of Johannefberg, Am-
manfhaufen, Hauptberg, Fuldifche Schoff-
berg, Rudefheim, Hoekheim, Rodtland,
Hinterhaufer, Markerbrunner, Grafenberg,
Laubenheim, Bifcheim, ' Nierftein, Har-
fcheim and Kapellgarren ; all celebrated
vineyards in the Rheingau. the growth
and manufacture of thefe wines are treated
of in many books, from one of which we
tranflate an account, that feems to be the
moft comprehenfive and fimple.

OF

GERMANY. 49

OF THE RHENISH VINEYARDS AND WINES.
THE ftrongeft and, as they are termed,
fulleft-bodied wines, thofe, of courfe, which
are beft for keeping, are produced upon
mountains of a cold and ftrong foil ; the
moft brifk and fpirlted on a warm and
gravelly fituation. Thofe produced near the
middle of an afcent are efteemed the moft
wholefome, the foil being there fufficiently
watered, without becoming too moift ; and,
on this account, the vineyards of Hoekheim
are more efteemed than fome, whofe pro
duce is better flavoured; on the contrary,
thofe at the feet of hills are thought fo
unwholefome, on account of their extreme
humidity, that the wine is directed to be
kept for feveral years, before it is brought
to table. The fineft flavour is communi
cated by foils either argillaceous, or marly.
Of this fort is a mountain near Bacharach,
vol. 11. E the

So GERMANY
the wines of which are faid to have a Muf-
cadine flavour and to be fo highly valued,
that an Emperor, in the fourteenth century,
demanded four large barrels of them, inftead
of 1 0,000 florins, which the city of Nurem
berg would have paid for its privileges.
A vineyard, newly manured, produces a
ftrong, fpirited and well- flavoured, but ufu-
ally an unwholefome wine ; becaufe the
manure contains a corrofive fait and a, fat
fulphur, which, being diffolved, pafs with
the juices of the earth into the vines. A
manure, confifting of ftreet mud, old earth,
the ruins of houfes well broken, and what
ever has been much expofed to the ele
ments, is, however, laid on, once in five or
fix years, between the vintage and winter.
The forts of vines, cultivated in thp
Rheingau, are the low ones, called the
Rei/linge, which are the moft common and
ripen the firft ; thofe of Klebroth, or red
Burgundy, the wine of which is nearly pur-
Ple|

GERMANY. 51
pie ; of Orleans and of Lambert ; and laftly
the tall vine, raifed againft houfes, or fup-
ported by bowers in gardens. The wines
of the two firft claffes are wholefome ; thofe
of the latter are reputed dangerous, or, at
leaft, unfit to be preferved.
The vintagers do not pluck the branches
by hand, but carefully cut them, that the
grapes may not fall off; in the Rheingau
and about Worms the cultivators afterwards
bruife them with clubs, but thofe of Franck-
fort with their feet ; after which the grapes
are carried to the prefs, and the wine flows
from them by wooden pipes into barrels in
the cellar. That, which flows upon the
firft preffure, is the moft delicately flavoured,
but the weakeft ; the next is ftrongeft and
moft brifk ; the third is four ; but the mix-
ture of all forms a good wine. The fkins
are fometimes preffed a fourth time, and a
bad brandy is obtained from the fermented
juice ; laftly, in the fcarcity of pafturage in
E 2 this

52 GERMANY.
this part pf Germany, they are given fo*s
food to oxen, but not to cows, their heat
being deftrudtive of milk.
To thefe particulars it may be ufeful tp
add, that one of the fureft propfs of the
purity of Rhenifh is the quick rifing and
difappearance of the froth, on pouring it
into a glafs: when the beads are formed
flowly and remain long, the wine is mixed,
and factitious.

OBERWESEL,
x he account of which has beep
interrupted by this digreffion, is the firft
town of the Electorate of Treves,, on this
fide, to which it has belonged fince 13 12,
when its freedom as an imperial city,
granted by the Emperor, Frederic the Se
cond, was perfidioufly feized by Henry the
Seventh,

GERMANY. S3
Seventh, and the town given to him by his
brother Baldwin, the then Elector. The
new Sovereign enriched it with a fine col
legiate church, which flill dignifies the fhore
of the river. If he ufed any other endea
vours to make the profperity of the place
furvive its liberties, they appear to have
failed ; for Oberwefel now refembles the
other towns of the Electorate, except that
the great number of towers and fleeples tell
what it was before its declenfion into that
territory. The Town-houfe, rendered un-
neceffary by the power of Baldwin, does
not exift to infult the inhabitants with the
memory of its former ufe ; but is in ruins,
and thus ferves for an emblem of the effects,
produced by the change.
Between Oberwefel and St. Goar, the
river is of extraordinary breadth, and the
majeftic mountains are covered with forefts,
which leave fpace for little more than a road
between their feet and the water. A group
E 3 of

54 GERMANY.
of peafants, with bafkets on their heads*
appeared now and then along the winding
path, and their diminutive figures, as they
paffed under the cliffs, feemed to make the
heights fhew more tremendous. When
they difappeared for a moment in the
copfes, their voices, echoing with feveral
repetitions among the rocks, were heard at
intervals, and with good effect, as our oars
were fufpended.
Soon after paffing the ifland of Sand, we
had a perfpective view of St. Goar,, of the
ftrong fortrefs of Rhinfels, on the rocks be
yond, and of the fmall fortified town of
Goarhaufen, on the oppofite bank. The
mountains now become ftill more flupen-
dous, and many rivulets, or becks, which
latter is a German, as well as an Englifh
term, defcend from them into the river, on
either hand, fome of which, in a feafon lefs
dry than the prefent, roar with angry tor-
ipnts. But the extreme violence, with
which

GERMANY. 55
which the Rhine paffes in this diftrict, left
us lefs leifure than in others to obferve its
fcenery.

ST. GOAR.

We foon reached St. Goar, lying
at the feet of rocks on the weftern fhore,
with its, ramparts and fortifications fpread-
ing far along the water, and mounting in
feveral lines among the furrounding cliffs,
fo as to have a very ftriking and roman
tic appearance. The Rhine no where, per
haps, prefents grander objects either of na
ture, or of art, than in the northern per-
fpective from St. Goar. There, expanding
with a bold fweep, the river exhibits, at one
coup d'ceil, on its mountainous fhores, fix
fortreffes or towns, many of them placed
in the moft wild and tremendous fitua-
E 4 tions ;

56 GERMANY.
tions ; their antient and gloomy ftructures
giving ideas of the fullen tyranny of for
mer times. The height and fantaftic fhapes
of the rocks, upon which they are perched,
or by which they are overhung, and the
width and rapidity of the river, that, un
changed by the viciffitudes of ages and the
contentions on its fhores, has rolled at their
feet, while generations, that made its moun
tains roar, have paffed away into the filence
of eternity, — thefe were objects, which,
combined, formed one of the fublimeft
fcenes we had viewed.
The chief of the fortreffes is that of
Rhinfels, impending over St. Goar, on the
weft fhore, its high round tower rifing
above maffy buildings, that crown two
rocks, of fuch enormous bulk and threaten
ing power, that, as we glided under them,
it was neceffary to remember their fixed
foundations, to foften the awe they in-
fpired. Other fortifications extend down th«

GERMANY $7
the precipices, and margin the river, at their
bafe. Further on in the perfpective, and
where the eaft bank of the Rhine makes its
boldeft fweep, is the very ftriking and An
gular caftle of Platz, a clufter of towers,
overtopped by one of immenfe height, that,
perched upon the fummit of a pyramidal
rock, feems ready to precipitate itfelf into
the water below. Wherever the cliffs be
neath will admit ofa footing, the fharp an
gles of fortifications appear.
On another rock, ftill further in the per
fpective, is the caftle pf Thumberg, and, at
its foot, on the edge of the water, the
walled tower of Welmick. Here the Rhine
winds from the eye among heights, that
clofe the fcene.
Nearly oppofite to St. Goar, is Goars-
haufen, behind which the rocks rife fo
fuddenly, as fcarcely to leave fpace for the
town to lie between them and the river.
A flying

58 GERMANY.
A flying bridge maintains a communication
between the two places, which, as well
as the fortrefs of Rhinfels, are under the
dominion of the Prince of Heffe . Caffel.
The number of fortreffes here, over
which Rhinfels is in every refpect para
mount, feem to be the lefs neceffary, be-
caufe the river itfelf, fuddenly fwoln by
many ftreams and vexed by hidden rocks,
is a fort of natural fortification to both
fhores, a very little refiftance from either
of which muft render it impaffable. Whe
ther the water has a fubterraneous paffage
from Bingen hither or not, there are oc
cafionally agitations in this part, which
confound the fkill of naturalifts ; and the
river is univerfally allowed to have a fall.
Near St. Goar, a fudden guft of wind,
affifted by the current, rendered our boat
fo unmanageable, that, in fpite of its heavi-
nefs and of all the efforts of the watermen, it

GERMANY. 0
it was whirled round, and. nearly forced
Upon the oppofite bank to that, on which
they would have directed it.
St. Goar is a place of great antiquity.
A difpute about the etymology of its name
is remarkable for the ludicrous contrariety
of the two opinions. One author main
tains, that it is derived from an hermit
named Goar, who, in the fixth century,
built a fmall chapel here. Another fup-
pofes that Gewerb, the name of a neigh
bouring fall in the Rhine, has been cor<-
rupted to Gewer, and thence to Goar; after
which, confidering that there is an ifland
called Sand in the river, and that a great
quantity of that material is hereabouts
thrown up, he finds the two words combine
very fatisfactorily into a likenefs of the pre
fent denomination. The former opinion
isr however, promoted by this-circumftance,
which the advocates of the latter may com
plain of as a partiality, that a ftatue of St.
Goar

€o GERMANY.
Goar is actually to be feen in the great
church, founded in 1440; and that, not*
withftanding the robberies and violences
committed in the church by a Spanifh
army, the following infcription is flill en
tire :
S. GOAR
MONACHUS GALLUS
OBIIT611.
St. Goar is one of the largeft places we
had yet paffed, and has a considerable fhare
ofthe commerce carried on by the Rhine*
Having in time of war a numerous garri-
fon, and being a little reforted to on ac
count of its romantic fituation, it has an
air of fomewhat more animation than might
be expected, mingling with the gloom of
its walls, and the appearance of decay,
which it has in common with other Ger
man towns. We were here required to
pay the fifth toll from Mentz, and were
vifited

GERMANY. 61
vifited by a Heffian ferjeant, who demand
ed, that our names and condition fhould be
written in his book. Thefe being given,
not in the Saxon, but the Roman character,
he returned \o require another edition of
them in German ; fo that his officer was
probably unable to read any other lan
guage, or characters. This being complied
with, it feemed, that the noble garrifon of
St. Goar had no further fears concerning
us^ and we were not troubled by more of
|he precautions ufed,
" Left foul invafion in di%uife approach.''
The fortrefs of Rhinfels, which com
mands St. Goar, is frequently mentioned in
the hiftpries of German wars. In the year
1255 it endured forty affaultsofan army,
combined from fixty towns on the Rhine.
In 1692, the French General Tallard be-
fieged it in vain, retreating with the lofs
pf four thoufand men, and nearly two hun dred

62 GERMANY.
dred officers ; but, in 1758, the Marquis de
Caftries furprifed it with fo much inge
nuity and vigour, that not a life was loft,
and it remained in poffeffion of the French
till 1763, when it was reftored by the
treaty of peace.

BOPPART,

We next reached the difmal old
town of Boppajrt, once an imperial city,
flill furrounded*with venerable walls, and
dignified by the fine Benedictine nunnery
and abbey of Marienberg, perched upon a
mountain above ; an inftitution founded in
the eleventh century, for the benefit of no
ble families only, and enriched by the do
nations of feveral Emperors and Electors,
Boppart, like many other towns, is built
on the margin of the Rhine, whence it
fpreao>

GERMANY. 63
ipreads up the rocks, that almoft impend
over the water, on which the cluftered
houfes are fcarcely diftinguifhable from the
cliffs themfelves. Befides the Benedictine
abbey, here is a convent of Carmelites, and
another of Francifcans ; and the fpot is fuch
as fuited well the fuperftition of former
times, for
— " O'er the twilight groves, and dufky caves,
Long-founding aifles, and intermingled graves,
Black Melancholy fits, and round her throws
A death-like filence, and a dread repofe ;
Her gloomy prefence faddens all the fcene,
Shades every flower, and darkens every green,
Deepens the murmur ofthe falling floods,
And breathes a browner horror o'er the woods."
The river, expanding into a vaft bay,
feems nearly furrounded by mountains, that
affume all fhapes, as they afpire above each
-other ; fhooting into cliffs of naked rock,
which impend oyer the water, or, covered with

64 GERMANY.
with forefts, retiring in multiplied fteep&
into regions whither fancy only can follow.
At their bafe, a few miferable cabins, and
half-famifhed vineyards, are all, that diver
sify the favagenefs of the fcene. Here two
Capuchins, belonging probably to the con
vent above, as they walked along the fhore,
beneath the dark cliffs of Boppart, wrapt
in the long black drapery of their order,
and their heads fhrowded in cowls, that half
concealed their faces, were interefting figures,
in a picture, always gloomily fublime.

FLAps,

GERMANY. 6^

PLACE OF ANTIENT ELECTIONS.
Passing the town of Braubach and
the majeftic caftle of Markfberg, which we
had long obferved, above the windings of
the ftream, on a fleep mountain, we came
to Renfe, a fmall town, remarkable only for
its neighbourhood to a fpot, on which the
elections of kings of the Romans, or, at
leaft, the meetings preliminary to them; are
believed to have antiently taken place. This
is diftinguifhed at prefent by the remains of
a low octagonal building, open at top, and
acceffible, beneath by eight arches, in one
of which is a flight of fteps. Within, is a
ftone bench, fuppofed to.be formed for the
Electors, who might afcend to it by thefe
fteps. In the centre ofthe pavement below
vol. ii. F is

66 GERMANY.
is a thick pillar, the ufe of which, whether
as a tribune for the new king, or as a table
for receiving the atteftations of the electors,
is not exactly known. That the building
itfelf, now called Koningftuhl, or King's
Throne, was ufed for fome purpofes of
election, appears from feveral German hif-
torians, who mention meetings there in the
fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, and im
pute them to antient cuftoms.

INTER-

GERMANY. 67

INTERMIXTURE OF GERMAN TERRITORIES. ,
Nearly oppofite to Renfe is the
fmall town of Oberlahnftein, which belongs
to the Elector of Mentz, though feparated
from his other dominions by thofe of feve
ral Princes. To fuch interfections of one
territory with another the individual weak-
nefs of the German Princes is partly owing ;
while their collected body has not only ne-
ceffarily the infirmities of each of its mem
bers, but is enfeebled by the counteraction
arifing from ah arrangement, which brings
perfons together to decide a queftion, ac
cording to a common intereft, who are aU
ways likely to have an individual one of
more importance to each than his fhare in
the general concern. F3 The

68 GERMANY.
The banks of the Rhine •afford many
inftances of this disjunction of territory.
The Elector of Cologne has a town to the
fouthward of nearly all the dominions of
Treves ; the Elector Palatine, whofe pof-
feffions on the eaft bank of the Rhine are
interfered by thofe of fiye or fix other
Princes, croffes the river to occupy fome
towns between the Electorates of Mentz
and Treves ; the Landgrave of Heffe Caffel
does the fame to his fortrefs of Rhinfels ;
and the Elector of Mentz, in return, has a
ftrip of land and his chief country refidence,
between the dominions ofthe two houfes
of Heffe.
Tfia't this intermixture of territory exifts,
without producing domeftic violences, is,
however, obvioufly a proof, that the prefent
ftate cf the Germanic body, weak as it
may be, with refpect to foreign interefts, is
well formed for the preservation of interiqr peace,

GERMANY. 69
peace. The aggrandizement of the Houfes
of Auftria and Pruffia, which has been
fuppofed dangerous to the conftitution of
the Empire, tends confiderably to fecure
its domeftic tranquillity, though it dimi-
nifhes the independence of the leffer Sove
reigns ; for the interefts of the" latter are
known to be ranged on one, or the other
fide ; and, as the Houfe, to which each is
attached, is likely to interfere, upon any
aggreffion againft them, the weaker Princes
are with-held from contefts among them-
felves, which would be accompanied by
wars, fo very extenfive and fo difpropor-
tionate to their caufes.
Nor is the Chamber of Wetzlaar, or the
Court for deciding the caufes of Princes, as
well as all queftions relative to the confti
tution, to be confidered as a nullity. The
appointment of the Judges by the free but
fecret votes of all Princes, fubject to their
F 3 > decrees,

7©

GERMANY.

decrees, is alone wanting to make its purity
equal to its power. In minute queftions,
the chief Princes readily receive its decifion,
inftead of that of arms, which, without it,
might fometimes be adopted ; and the other
Sovereigns may be compelled to obey it,
the Chamber being- authorifed to command
any Prince to enforce its decrees by his
army, and to take payment of the expences
out of the dominions of his refractory
neighbour. An inftance of fuch a com
mand, and of its being virtually effectual,
notwithftanding the ridicule, with which
it was treated, occurred, during the reign
of the late Frederic ofPruffia; the ftory is
varioufly told, but the following account
was confirmed to us by an Advocate of the
Chamber of Wetzlaar.
The Landgrave of Heffe Caffel had dif-
"obeyed feveral injunctions of the Chamber,
relative to a queftion, which had been con-
flitutionally

GERMANY. 71
ftitutionally fubmkted to them. At length,
the Judges had recourfe to their power of
calling out what is called the Arme'e Execu*
trice de PEmpire, confifting of fo many
troops of any Prince, not a party in the
caufe, as may be fufficient for enforcing
fubmiffion. The Sovereign of Heffe Caffel
Was not to be conquered by any of his im
mediate neighbours, and they were induced
to direct their order to the King of Pruffia,
notwithftanding the probability, that fo un-
juft a monarch would fhew fome refent-
ment of their controul.
Frederic confented to the propriety of
fupporting the Chamber, but did not choofe
to involve himfelf with the Landgrave, on
their account. He, therefore, fent him a
copy of their order, accompanied by a letter,
which, in his own flyle of courteous plea-
fantry, yet with a fufficient fhew of fome
further intentions, admonifhed him to obey
F 4 them.

72 GERMANY
them. The Landgrave affured him of hrS
readinefs to conform, and the two Princes
had privately fettled the matter, when th$
King of Pruffia refolved to obey and to
ridicule the Chamber of Wetzlaar. He
fent, by a public * diligence, a ferjeant of
foot, who, at the firft Heffian garrifon,
delivered a paper to the captain of the
guard, " declaring himfelf to be the com
mander of the Armee Executrice, fet on foot
by order of the Chamber ; and the army
confuted of two corporals, who waited at
the door ! , The Judges of Wetzlaar did not
fhew, that they knew the difrefpect, and
were contented that the King of Pruffia
had reduced the Landgrave of Heffe Gaffel
to obedience.
To this Gourt fubjeets may make appeals
from the orders of their immediate fove-
reigns, when the queftion can be fhewn to
have any general, or conftitutional ten
dency.

GERMANY. 73
dency. Such a caufe we heard of in Ger
many, and it feemed likely to place the
Chamber in fomewhat a delicate fituation.
The Elector of Treves had banifhed a ma-
giftrate, for having addreffed himfelf to
Cuftine, during the invafion of the French,
in 1792, and requefted to know whether
he might remain on a part of his property,
near their pods, and perform the duties of
his office, as ufual. The magiftrate appeal
ed to Wetzlaar ; admitted- the facts charg
ed ; and fet forth, that, in this part of his
conduct, he had exactly followed the exam
ple of the Chamber itfelf, who, though at a
greater diftance, > had made a fimilar appli
cation.

Soon after leaving Oberlahnftein, we
paffed the mouth of the Lahn, a fmall
river, which defcends from the mountains of

74 GERMANY.
of Wetteravia on the right, and wafhes filver
and lead mines in its courfe. It iffues from
one of thofe narrow and gloomy foreft-
glens, which had continually occurred on
the eaftern bank fince we left Boppart, and
which were once terrible for more than
their afpect, having been the haunt of rob
bers, of Whofe crimes fome teftimonies flill
remain in the tombs of murdered travellers
near the fhore. In the ruins of caftles and
abandoned fortreffes within the receffes of
thefe wild mountains, fuch banditti took
up their abode ; and thefe are not fancied
perfonages, for, in the year 1273, an Elec
tor of Mentz deftroyed the deferted fortrefs
of Rheinberg, becaufe it had been a ren*
dezvous for them.
Towards fun-fet, the rain, which had
fallen at intervals during the day, ceafed ;
a fiery flufh from the weft was reflected on
the water, and partially coloured the rocks.
Some-

GERMANY. 75
Sometimes, an oblique gleam glanced a-
mong thefe glens, touching their upper
cliffs, but leaving their depths, with the
rivulets, that roared there, in darknefs. As
the boat glided by, we could now and then
difcover on the heights a convent, or a
chateau, lighted up by the rays, and which,
like the pictures in a magic lanthorn, ap
peared and vanifhed in a moment, as we
paffed on the current.
But the fhores foon begin to wear a
milder afpect ; the mountains of the weft
ern bank foften into gradual heights ; and
.. vineyards, which had difappeared near
Boppart, again climb along them. The
eaftern fhore is more abrupt, flill bearing
on its points fome antient buildings, till,
oppofite to Coblentz, it fhoots up into that
enormous mafs-, which fuftains the fortrefs
of Ehrenbreitftein.
Having paffed a Benedictine convent, feated

76 GERMANY.
feated on the ifland of Oberworth, we*
reached Coblentz as the moon began to tint
the rugged Ehrenbreitftein, whofe towers
and pointed angles caught the light. Part
of the rock below, fhaded by projecting
cliffs, was dark and awful, but the Rhine^
expanding at its feet, trembled with ra
diance. There the flying-bridge, and its
fweeping line of boats, were juft difcernible.
On the left, the quay of Coblentz extended,
high and broad, crowned with handfome
buildings ; with tall veffels lying along its
bafe.

EHREN-

GERMANY 77

EHRENBREITSTEIN.
W? were now fomewhat more
pleafantly lodged than before, at an inn
near the Rhine, almoft oppofite to the for
trefs, the importance of which had, in the
mean time, greatly increafed by the ap
proach of the French armies. The ftrength
of it was fomewhat a popular topic. Being
confidered as one of the keys of Germany
towards France, the Goyernor takes the
paths not only to the Ejector of Treves,
but to the Emperor and the Empire. As
ft can be attacked but on one fide, and that
is not towards the Rhine, a blockade is
more expected than a fiege ; and there are
ftorehoufes in the rock for preferving a
great quantity of provifions. The fupply of

78 GERMANY.
of water has been provided for fo long fince
as the fifteenth century, when three years
were paffed in digging, with incredible
labour, a well through the folid rock. An
infcription on a part of the caftle mentions
this work, and that the rock was hewn to
the depth of two hundred and eighty feet.
The poffeffion of the fortrefs was confirmed
to the Elector of Treves by the treaty of
Weftphalia in 1650.
In the morning, our boatmen croffed the
river from Coblentz, to pafs under the walls
of Ehrenbreitftein, perhaps an eftablifhed
fymptom of fubmiffion. The river is flill
of noble breadth, and, after the junction
with the Mofelle, which immediately fronts
the old palace, flows with great, but even
rapidity. Its fhores are now lefs romantic,
and more open ; fpreading on the left into
the plains of Coblentz, and fwelling on the
right into retiring mountains. CpNVEft-

GERMANY. 79

CONVERSATION RELATIVE TO FRANCE.
BUT our attention was withdrawn from
the view, and our party in the cabin this
day increafed, by a circumftance, that oc
curred to our emigrant friend. Having
found a large fabre, which he . thought was
of French manufacture, he was enquiring
for the owner, when it was claimed by a
gentleman, whom he recognifed to be an
old friend, but with whofe efcape from
France he was unacquainted ; fo that he
had fuppofed, from his rank, he muft have
fallen there. The meeting, on both fides,1
was very affecting, and they fhed * fome
tears, and embraced again and again, with
all the ardour of Frenchmen, before the
ftranger was introduced to us, after which we

go GERMANY.
we had the pleafure of his company as faj?
as Cologne.
This gentleman, a Lieutenant-ColoneJ
before the Revolution, had made his efcape
from France fo lately as May lad, and his
converfation of courfe turned upon his late
eondition. There were in moft towns
many perfons who, like himfelf, were ob
noxious for their principles, yet, being un-
fufpected of active defigns, and unreached
by the private malice of Roberfpierre's
agents, were fuffered to exift out of prifon.
They generally endeavoured tp lodge in
the houfes of perfons favourable to the
Revolution ; went to no public places ;
never vifited each other;- and, when they
met in the ftreet, paffed with an hafty or
concealed falutation. Their apartments were
frequently fearched ; and thofe, who had
houfes, took care to have their cellars frq,
quently dug for faltpetre. With,

GERMANY 81
With refped to the profpect of any poli
tical change, they had little hopes, and flill
lefs of being able, by remaining in France,,
to give affiftance to the Combined Powers.
They .expected nothing but fome chance
of efcape, which in general they would not
attempt, without many probabilities in their
favour, knowing the fure confequences of
being difcovered. It was impoffible for
them to pafs by the common roads, being
expofed to examination at every town, and
by every patrol ; but, in the day-time, they
might venture upon tradts through forefts,
and, at night, upon cultivated ground ; a
fort of journey, to which they were tempt
ed by the fucceffes of others in it, but
which could not be performed, without
experienced guides. It will be heard with.
aftonifhment, that, notwithftanding the
many difficulties and dangers of fuch an
employment, there were perfons, who ob-
VOL. II. G tained

S2 GERMANY
tained a living by conducting Others tp thg
frontiers, without paffing any town, village,
or military poft ; who, having delivered
one perfon, returned, with his recommen
dation, to another, and an offer to efcort
him for a certain fum. Our companion
nad waited feveral months for a guide, the
perfon, whom he chofe to truft, being un-
der prior engagements, in all of which he
was fuccefsful. They fet out, each laden
with his ftiare of provifions, in the drefs of
peafants ; and, without any other accident
than that of being once fo near the patrols
as to hear their converfation, arrived in the
Electorate of Treves, from whence this
gentleman had been to Raftadt, for the
purpofe of prefenting himfelf to NL de
Conde. It was remarkable, that fome of thefe
guides did not fhare the principles of thofe,
whom they conducted ; yet they, were
faithful

GERMANY. $3.
faithful to their engagements, and feemed
to gratify their humanity, as much as they
ferved their interefts. Confidering the many
contrivances, which are behind almoft every
political tranfaction, it feems not improba
ble, that thefe men were fecretly encou
raged by fome of the rulers, who wifhed
to be difencumbered from their enemies,
without the guilt of a maffacre, or the un
popularity of appearing to affift them.
The attachment to the new principles
feemed to be increafed, when any circum-
flances either of fignal difadvantage, or
fuccefs, occurred in the courfe of a cam
paign. The difafters of an army, it was
faid, attracted fympathy ; their victories
aroufed pride. Such a change of manners
and of the courfe of education had taken
-place, that the riling generation were
all enragees in favour of the Revolution ;
of which the following was a remarkable
G 2 inftance :

§4 GERMANY
inftance : Two young ladies, the daughters
of a baron, who had remained paffively in
the country, without promoting, or refifting
the Revolution, were then engaged in -a
law-fuit with their father, by which they
demanded a maintenance, feparate from
him, " he being either an Ariftocrat, or a
Neutralift, with whom they did not choofe
to refide." They did not pretend to any
other complaint, and, it was pofitively be
lieved, had no other motive. Yet thefe la
dies had been previoufly educated with the
niceft care, by the moft accomplifhed in-
ftruttors, and, in fact, with more expence
than was fuitable to their father's income,
having been intended -for places at the
Court. The children of the poorer claffes
were equally changed by education, and
thofe of both fexes were proficients in all
.the Revolutionary fongs and catechifms. This

GERMANY. S5
This converfation paffed while we were
floating through the vale of Ehrenbreitftein,
where the river, bending round the plains
of Coblentz, flows through open and richly
cultivated banks, till it enters the valley of
Andernach*, where it is again enclofed
among romantic rocks. The places, warn
ed by it in its paffage thither, are the vil
lages of Neuralf, Warfchheim, Nerenberg,
Malter, the old caftle of Malterberg, the
village of Engus, the fine electoral . palace
of Schonbornuft, the neat town and palace
of Neuwied, and the chateau of Friedrich-
ftein, called by the country people the De
vil's Caftle, from that love of the wonder
ful, which has -taught them to people it
with apparitions.

G3 NEUWIED

£6 GERMANY.

NEUWIED

Was now the head- quarters of a
legion raifed by the Prince of Salm, for the
pay of Great Britain ; and a fcarlet uniform,
fomewhat refembling the Englifh, was fre
quent on the quay. We heard of feveral
fuch corps in Germany, and of the facility
:with which they, are raifed, the Englifh pay
being as eight-pence to two-pence better
than thofe of Auftria and Pruffia, Recruits
receive from one to two- Crowns bounty :
whether it is equally true, that the officers
are, notwithftanding, allowed ten pounds
for each, we cannot pofitively affert; but
this was faid within the hearing of feveral
at Cologne, and was not contradicted. La
fdde a Angleterre is extremely popular in
Germany j

GERMANY. §7
Germany; and the great wealth of the
Englifh nation begins to be very familiarly
known.

ANDERNACH

Was occupied by Imperial tropps ;
and, as we entered the gorge of its' rocky
pafs, it was curious to obferve the appear
ances of modern mixed with thofe of an
tient warfare ; the foldiers of Francis the
Second lying at the foot of the tower of
Drufus; their artillery and baggage wag
gons lining the fhore along the whole ex
tent of the walls.
In this neighbourhood are three cele
brated mineral fprings, of which one rifes
in the domain ofthe Carmelite monaftery
of Jonniesftein ; the fecond, called Ponter-
G 4 brunnen,

88 GERMANY
brunnen, is fo brifk and fpirited, that the
labourers in the neighbouring fields declare
it a remedy for fatigue as well as thirft ; and
a third, called Heilbrunnen, has fo much
fixed ' air, as to effervefce flightly when
mixed with wine.
The interefting valley of Andernach has,
been already defcribed. Its fcenery, viewed
now from the water, was neither fo beauti
ful, or fo ftriking, as from the road, by
which we had before paffed. The elevation
of the latter, though not great, enabled the
eye to take a wider range, and to fee
mountains, now fcreened by the nearer
rocks of the fhore, which added greatly to
the grandeur of the fcene. The river itfelf
was then alfo a noble object, either expand
ing below, or winding in the diftance ; but,
now that we were upon its level, its ap
pearance loft much both in dignity and ex
tent, and even the rocks on its marginfeemed

GERMANY. 89
feemed lefs tremendous, when viewed from
below. Something, however, fhould be al-*
lowed in this laft refpect to our having
juft quitted wilder landfcapes; for, though
the banks of the Rhine, in its courfe from
Bingen to Coblentz, are lefs various and
beautiful, than in its paffage between An-
dernach and Bonn, they are more grand
and fublime.
But. the merits of the different fituations
for the view of river fcenery have been
noticed and contended for by the three
perfons moft authorifed by their tafte to
decide upon them ; of whom Gray has
left all his enthufiafm, and nearly all his
fublimity, to his two furviving friends ; fo
that this opinion is to be underftood only
with refpect to the fcenery of _ the Rhine,
and does not prefume. to mingle with the
general queflion between them. The
Rhine now paffes hy the village and caftle of

go GERMANY.
of Hammerftein, which, with thofe of
Rheineck, were nearly laid wafle by Louis
the Fourteenth, the caftle of Argendorff
and the towns of Lintz and Rheinmagen,
all exhibiting fymptoms of decay, though
Lintz -is called a commercial town.
Roland's Caftle appears foon after,
and, almoft beneath it, the ifland, that bears
Adelaide's convent, called Rolands Werth,
or the Worth of Roland.
We were now again at the bafe of the
Seven Mountains, whofe fummits had long
afpired in the diftance, and, as we paffed
under the cliffs of Drakenfels, hailed the
delightful plain of Goodefberg, though
much of it was concea^ed by the high
fedgy bank ofthe Rhine on the left. The
Spreading fkirts of thefe favourite mountains
accompanied us nearly to Bonn, and dis
played all their various charms of form and
colouring in this our farewell view pf them. The

GERMANY. 9»
The town and palace of Bonn extend
with much dignity along the weftern bank,
whire the Rhine makes a very bold fweep ;
one wing of the former overlooking the
fhore, and the want of uniformity in the
front, which is feen obliquely, being con^
cealed by the garden groves ; the many
tall fpires of , the great church rife over the
xoof.of the palace, and appear to belong to
the building.
After leaving Bonn, the fhores have little
that is interefting, unlefs in the retrofpect
of the Seven Mountains, with rich wood
lands undulating at their feet ; and when
thefe, at length, difappear, the Rhine lofes
for the reft of its courfe the wild and fub-
lime character, which diftinguifhes it, he-
tween Bingen and Bonn. The rich plain,
which it waters between the latter place and
Cologne, is fludded, at every gentle afcent,
that bounds it, with abbeys and convents,
> moft

Q2

G E R M.A N Y.

moft of them appropriated to the mainte
nance of noble Chapters.
Of thefe, the firft_ is the Ladies Chapter
of Vilich, founded in the year 1 1 90, by
Megiegor, a Count and Prince of Guelder-
land, who endowed it richly, and made his
own daughter the firft abbefs ; a lady, who
had fuch excellent notions of difcipline,
that, when any nuns neglected to fing in
the choir, fhe thought a heavy blow on the
cheek the beft means of reftoring their
voices. This Chapter is one of the richeft
in Germany, and is peculiarly valuable to
the nobility of this Electorate from its
neighbourhood to Bonn, where many of
the ladies pafs great part of the year with
their families. On the other fide of the
river is the Benedictine abbey of Siegberg,
appropriated alfo to nobles, and lying in
the midft of its own domains, of which a
fmall town, at the foot of its vineyards, is
part,

GERMANY. 93
part. Admiffion into this fociety is an
affair of the moft ftrict and ceremonious
proof, as to the fixteen quarterings in the
arms of the candidate, each of which muft
be unblemifhed by any plebeian fymptoms.
Accompanied by his genealogy, thefe quar
terings are expofed'to view for fix weeks
and three days, before the election ; and,
as there is an ample income to be contend
ed for, the candidates do not hefitate to im
peach each others' claims by every means
in their power. The prelate of this abbey
writes himfelf Count of Guls, Strahlen and
Neiderpleis, and has fix provoftfhips within
his jurifdiction.
Befides this, and fimilar buildings, the
Rhine paffes not lefs than twenty villages
in its courfe from "Bonn to Cologne, a dif
tance of probably five-and-twenty Englifh
miles. COLOGNE

94 GERMANY.

COLOGNE

iSlow began to experience the in
conveniences of its neighbourhood to tb,e
feat of war, fome of which had appeared
at Bonn from the arrival of families, who
could not be lodged in the former place.
We were no fooner within tlie gates, than
the throng of people and carriages in a city,
which only a few weeks before was. almoft
as filent as gloomy, convinced us we fhould
not find a very eafy welcome. The fenti-
nels, when they made the ufual enquiry
as to our inn, affured us, that there had
been no ' lodgings at the Hotel de Prague
for feveral days, and . one of them follow
ed us, to fee what others we fhould find.
Through many obftructions by military and

GERMANY ^
and other carriages, we, however, reached
this inn, and were foon convinced that
there could be no room, the landlord fhew-
ing us the chaifes in which fome of hifc
guefts flept, and his billiard table already
oaden with beds "for others. There was
fo much confufion meanwhile i,n the ad
joining fquare, that, upon a 'flight affurance,
we could have believed the French to be
within a few miles of the city, and have
taken refuge on the oppofite bank of the
Rhine. At length, our hoft told us, that what he
believed to be the worft room in the place
was ftill vacant, but might not be fo half
an hour longer. We followed his man to
' it, in a diftant part of the city, and faw
enough in our way of parties taking re-
frefhment in carriages, and gentlemen car
rying their own baggage, to make us con
tented with a viler cabin than any perfon can

9§" GERMANY*
can have an idea of, who has not beefl
out of England. The next morning we
heard from the miftrefs of it how form- ,
nately we had been fituated, two or thre$:
families having paffed the night in the open :
market-place, and great numbers in their
carriages. The occafion of this exceffive preffure ;
upon Cologne was the entry of the French
into Bruffels, their advances towards Liege,
and the immediate profpect of the fiege of
Maeftricht, all which had difpeopled an im-
menfe tract of territory of its wealthier in
habitants, and driven them, together with
the French emigrants, upon the confines of
Holland and Germany. The Auftrian hof-
pitals having been removed from Maef
tricht, five hundred waggons, laden with
fick and wounded, had paffed through Co
logne the day before. The carriages on
the roads from Maeftricht and Liege were
almoft

GERMANY 97
almoft as clofe as in a proceffion, and at
Aix la Chapelle, where thefe roads meet,
there was an obftruction for fome hours.
While we were at Cologne, another detach
ment of hofpital waggons arrived, fome
hundreds of which we had the misfortune
to fee, for they paffed before our window.
They were all uncovered, fo that the ema
ciated figures and ghaftly countenances of
the foldiers, laid out upon ftraw in each,
were expofed to the rays of a burning fun,
as well as to the fruitlefs pity of paffengers ;
and, as the -carriages had no fprings, it
feemed as if thefe half-facrificed victims to
war would expire before they could be
drawn over the rugged pavement of Co
logne. Any perfon, who had once witneffed
fuch a fight, would know how to eflimate
the glories of war, e/en though there
fhould be a mercenary at every corner to
infult his unavoidable feelings and the eter-
VOL. II. H nal

9g GERMANY
nal facrednefs of peace, with the flander of
difaffection to his country.
We had fome thoughts of refuming our
courfe by land from this place, but were
now convinced, that it was impracticable,
feeing the number of poft-horfes, which
were engaged, and judging ofthe crowds
of travellers, that muft fill the inns on the
road. Our watermen from Mentz were,
however, not allowed to proceed lower, fo
that we had to comply with the extortions
of others, and to give nine louis for a boat
from Cologne to Nimeguen. Having, not
without fome difficulty, obtained this, and
flored it with provifions, we again embark
ed on the Rhine, rejoicing that we were
not, for a fecond night, to make part ofthe
crowd on fhore.
Cologne, viewed from- the river, appears
.with more of antient majefty than from
any other point. Its quays, extending far
-along

GERMANY. 99
along the bank, its lofty ramparts, fhaded
with old chefnuts, and crowned by many
rnaffy towers, black with age ; the old gate
ways opening to the Rhine, and the crowd
of fleeples, overtopping all, give it a vene
rable and pidurefque character. But, how
ever thronged the city now was, the fhore
without was filent and almoft deferted ; the
fentinels, watching at the gates and looking
out from the ramparts, or a few women
gliding beneath, wrapt in the nun-like fcarf,
fo melancholy in its appearance and fo ge
nerally worn at Cologne, were nearly the
only perfons feen.
The fhores, though here flat, when com
pared with thofe to the fquthward, are high
enough to obftruct the view of the diftant
mountains, that rife in the eaft ; in the
fouth, the wild fummits of thofe near Bonn
were yet viflble, but, after this faint ghmpfe,
we faw them no more.
About two miles below Cologne, the weft
H 2 bank

100 GERMANY.
bank of the Rhine was covered with hofpi-
tal waggons and with troops, removed from
them, for the purpofe of croffing the river,
to a manfion, converted by the Elector into
an hofpital. About a mile lower, but on
the oppofite bank, is Muhleim, a fmall
town in the dominions of the Elector Pa
latine, which, in the beginning of the pre
fent century, was likely to become a rival
of Cologne. A perfecution of the Proteftant
merchants of the latter place drove them to
Muhleim, where they erected a ftaple, and
began to trade with many advantages over
the mother city ; but the pufillanimity of
the Elector Palatine permitted them to fink
under the jealoufy of the Colonefe mer
chants ; their engines for removing heavy
goods from veffels to the fhore were ordered
to be demolifhed ; and the commerce of
the place has fince confifted chiefly in tlie
exportation of grain.
The fhores are now kfs enlivened by
villages

GERMANY. 101
villages than in the Rheingau and other
diftricts to the fouthward, where the culti
vation and produce of the vineyards afford,
at leaft, fo much employment, that fix or
feven little towns, each cluftered round its
church, are frequendy vifible at once. The
courfe of the river being alfo wider and
lefs rapid, the fucceffion of objects is flower,
and the eye is often wearied with the uni
form lownefs of the nearer country,, where
the antient caftle and the perched abbey, fo
frequent in the Rheingau, feldom appear.
Corn lands, with a flight intermixture of
wood, border the river from hence to Duf-
feldorff, and the ftream flows, with an even
force, through long reaches, fcarcely diftin-
guifhed from each other by any variety of
the country, or intervention of towns.
Thofe, which do occur, are called Stammel,
Niel, Flietert, Merkenich, " Weftdorff, Lan-
gelt, and Woringen ; in which laft place,
H 3 the

102 GERMANY.
the burgeffes of Cologne, at the latter end
of the thirteenth century, ftood a fieg£
againft their Archbifhop, and, by a fuccefs-
ful refiftance, obtained the enjoyment of
fome commercial rights, here fo rare as to
be called privileges. After Dormagen, a
fmall town very flightly provided with the
means of benefiting itfelf by the river, we
came oppofite to Zons, the fortifications of
'which are fo far preferved, as that the
boatmen on the Rhine are required to flop
before them and give an account of their,
cargoes. We were liftening to an old French
fong, and had almoft forgotten the chance
of interruption from any abufes of power,
when the fleerfman called to us in a low,
but eager voice, and enquired whether we
would permit him to attempt paffing the
caftle, where, if we landed, We might pro
bably be detained an hour, or, if the officer was

GERMANY 103
was at fupper, for the whole night. By
the help of twilight and our filence, he
thought it poffible to glide unnoticed under
the oppofite bank, or that we fhould be in
very little danger, if the fentinels fhould
obey their order for firing upon all veffels
that might attempt to pafs. The infolent
tedioufpefs of a German cullomhoufe, and
the probable wretchednefs of inns at fuch a
place as this, determined us in favour of the
man's propofal ; we were filent for a quar
ter of an hour ; the men with-held their
oars ; and the watchful garrifon of Zons
faw us not, or did not think a boat of two
tens, burthen could be laden with an army
for the conqueft of Germany.
The evening was not fo dark as entirely
to deny the view of either fhore, while we
continued to float between both, and to
trace , the features of .three or four fmall
towns upon them. Neufs, being at fome
H 4 little

104 GERMANY.
little diftance from the river, was concealed ;
but we had an accurate remembrance of its
hideoufnefs, and, recognizing it for , the
model of many towns fince feen, were
pleafed with a mode of travelling, which
rendered us independent of them. ; The
. fame mode, however, prevented us from
yifiting Duffeldorff, which we did not
reach, till after the fhutting of the gates ;
fo that, had we flayed, we mpft have paffed
the night in our boat on the outfide, a facri-
fice of -too much time to be made, while
an army was advancing to the oppofite
fhore. Being compelled to remain in the
boat, we thought it deferable to be, at the
fame time, proceeding with the ftream,, and
fuffered the fteerfman . to attempt paffing
another garrifon, by whom, as he faid, we
fhould. otherwife be inevitably detained for
the night. He did not effect this, without
being noticed by the fentinels, who called and

GERMANY. 105
and threatened to fire • but, as the boatmen
affured us this would fcarcely be done,
without leave from an officer, who might
not be immediately at hand, we yielded to
their method of preffing forward as haftily
as poffible, and were prefently out of fight
of Duffeldorff, of which we had feen only
the -walls and the extenfive palace^ rifirig
immediately above the water. In the next
reach, the boatmen flopped to take breath,
and then confeffed, that, though .we had
efcaped being detained, as they had faid,
they had faved fome florins due for tolls
here and at Zons ; which faving was their
motive for running the rifk. Though we
would not have encouraged fuch a purpofe,
had we been aware of it, fince the neglect
of an unjuft payment might produce an
habitual omiffion of a juft one, it did not
feem neceffary to fay much, in behalf of a
toll on the Rhine, for which there is no
other

io6 GERMANY.
other pretence and no other authority than
the power to enforce it
The lofs of Duffeldorff, we were affurecL
was the lefs, becaufe the pictures pf the
celebrated gallery had been carried off to
meet thofe of Manheim, at Munich*
It was now dark for two or three hours,
but we did npt hear of any town or view
worth waiting to obferve, The firft object
in the dawn was the ifland of Kaiferwerth,
on which there is a fmall town, twice be-
fieged in die wars of Louis the Fourteenth,
and now in the condition, to which mili
tary glory has reduced fo many others.
One of the mines in the laft fiege blew
fo large a part of the walls over the ifland
into the Rhine, that the navigation of the
river was, for fome time, obftructed by
them. The dominion of this ifland, for
which the Elector of Cologne and the Elec
tor Palatine contended, was decided fo lately as

GERMANY. 107
as 1768 by the authority of the Chamber
pf Wetzlaar, who fummoned the King of
Pruffia to affift them with his troops, as the
Armee executrice de V Empire, and the Elec
tor Palafine was put in poffeffion pf it,
notwithftanding the remonftrances of his
rival. As the morning advanced, we reached
the villages of Kreuzberg, Rheinam and
Einingen ; and, at fiye, flopped at Urdiiv
gen, a town on the weft bank pf the Rhine,
at which the Elector of Cologne takes his
northernmoft toll, and a place of more com
merce than we had expected to fee fhort
of Holland. Great part of this is in tim
ber, which it adds to the floats annually
fent to that country ; a fort of expedition
fo curious and ufeful, that we fhall make
no apology for introducing the following
account of it. TIMBER

10S GERMANY.

TIMBER FLOATS ON THE RHINE.
THESE are formed chiefly at Ander-
nach, but confift of the fellings of almoft
every German foreft, which, by ftreams,
or fhort land carriage, can be brought to
the Rhine. Having paffed the rocks of
Bingen and the rapids of St. Goar in fmall
detachments, the feveral rafts are compacted
at fome town not higher than Andernach,
into one immenfe body, of which an idea
may be formed from this lift of dimenfions.
The length is from 700 to 1000 feet;
the breadth from £0 to 90 ; the depth,
when manned with the whole crew, ufu-
ally feven feet. The trees in the principal
rafts are not lefs than 70 feet long, of
which ten compofe a raft.
On this fort of floating ifland, five hun-
3 dre4

GERMANY. 109
dred labourers of different claffes are em
ployed, maintained and lodged, during the
whole voyage ; and a little ftreet of deal
huts is built upon it for their reception.
The captain's dwelling and the kitchen are
diftinguifhed from the other apartments by
b^ing fomewhat better built.
The firft rafts, laid down in this ftruc-
ture, are called the foundation, and are al
ways either of oak, or fir-trees, bound to
gether at their tops, and ftrengthened with
firs, faftened upon them croffways by iron
fpikes. When this foundation has been
carefully compacted, the other rafts are laid
upon it, the trees of each being bound to
gether in the fame manner, and each Jlra-
tiim faftened to that beneath it. The fur-
face is rendered even ; ftorehoufes and other
apartments are raifed ; and the whole is
again ftrengthened by large mafts of oak.
Before the main body proceed feveral
' - : . . thin

no GERMANY;
thin and narrow rafts, compofed only of
one floor of timbers, which, being held at a
certain diftance from the float by mafts of
oak, are ufed to give it direction and force^
according to the efforts of the labourers
upon them.
Behind it, are a great number of fmall
boats, of which fifteen or fixteen, guided by
feven men each, are laden with anchors
and cables ; others contain articles of light
rigging, and fome are ufed for meffages
from this populous and important fleet to
the towns, which it paffes. There are
twelve forts of cordage, each having a name
ufed only by the float-mafters ; among the
largeft are cables of four hundred yards
long and eleven inches diameter. Iron
chains are alfo ufed in feveral parts of the
ftructure. The confumption of provifions on board
fuch a float is eftimated for each voyage at
fifteen

GERMANY. in
fifteen or twenty thoufand pounds of frefh
meat, between forty and fifty thOiifand
pounds of bread, ten or fifteen thoufand
pounds of cheefe, one thoufand or fifteen
hundred pounds of butter, eight hundred
or one thoufand pounds of dried meat, and
five orjix hundred tons of beer.
The apartments on the deck are, firft,
that of the pilot, which is near one of the
magazines, and, oppofite to it, that ofthe
perfons called mailers of the float : another
clafs, called mafters of the valets, have alfo
their apartment ; near it is that of the va
lets, and then that of the fub-valets ; after
this are the cabins of the tyrolois, or laft
clafs of perfons, employed in the float, of
whom eighty or an hundred fleep upon
ftraw in each, to the number of more than
four hundred in all. There is, laftly," one
large eating-room, in which the greater part
of this crew dine at the fame time. The

112

GERMANY.

The pilot, who conducts the fleet from5
Andernach to Duffeldorff, quits it there*
and another is engaged at the fame falary,
that is, five hundred florins, or 42 1. ; each
has his fub-pifot, at nearly the fame price*
About twenty tolls are paid in the courfe
of the voyage, the amount of which varies
with the fize of the fleet and the eftimation
of its value, in which latter refpect the
proprietors are fo much fubject to the ca
price of cuftomhoufe officers, that the firft
fignal of their intention to depart is to col
lect all thefe gentlemen from the neigh
bourhood, and to give them a grand dinner
on board. After this, the float is founded
and meafured, and their demands upon the
owners fettled.
On the morning of departure, every
labourer takes his poft, the rowers on their
benches, the guides of the leading tafts on
theirs, and each boat*s crew in its own
veffel.

GER.MANY. u3
veftel. The eldeft of the valet-mafters then
makes the tour of the whole float, ex
amines the labourers, paffes them in review,
and difmiffes thofe, who are unfit. He af
terwards addreffes them in a fhort fpeech ;
recommends regularity and alertnefs ; and
repeats the ,terms of their engagement, thai
each fhall have five crowns and a half, be*-
fides provifions, for the ordinary voyage;
that, in cafe of delay by accident, they fhall
work three days, gratis ; but that, after
that time, each fhall be paid at the rate
of twelve creitzers, about four pence, per
day. After this, the labourers have a repaft,
and then, each being at his poft, the pilot,
who Hands on high near the rudder, takes
off his hat and calls out, " Let us all pray."
In an inftant there is the happy fpectacle
of all thefe numbers on their knees, im
ploring a bleffing on their undertaking.
YPL. n. I The

ii4 GERMANY.
The anchors, which were faftened on
the fhores, are now brought on board, the
pilot gives a fignal, and the rowers put the
whole float in motion, while the crews of
the feveral boats ply round it to facilitate
the departure.
Dort in Holland is the deftination of
all thefe floats, the fale of one of which
occupies feveral months, and frequently
produces 350,000 florins, or more tjiaa
3.0,000 j.

URDIN-

GERMANY. jij

URDINGEN.

Iias a neat market-place and fome
fymptoms of greater comfort than are ufual
in the towns of the Electorate of Cologne;
but it is fubject to violent floods, fo much
fo, that at the inn, which is, at leaft, an
hundred and fifty yards from the fhore, a
brafs plate, nailed upon the door of the
parlour, relates, that the river had rifen
to that height ; about five feet from the
ground. After refting here, five hours, we re
turned to our little bark, with the fpirits
infpired by favourable weather, and were
foon borne away on the ample current of
the Rhine.
Large Dutch veffels, bound to Cologne,
I 2 now

*i6" GERMANY.
now frequently appeared, and refreshed us
once again with the fhew of neatnefs, in-
duftry and profperity. The boatmen learn
ed, that feveral pf thefe were from Rotter^
dam, laden with the effects of Flemifh re.
fugees, brought thither from Oftend ; and
others were carrying military ftores for the
ufe, as they faid, of the Emperor. The
ordinary trade of the Dutch with Germany,
,in tea, coffee, Englifh cloths and Englifh
hardware, which we had heard at Mentz
was flackened by the expected approach of
armies, now feemed to be exchanged for
the conveyance of property from fcenes of
actual diftrefs to thofe not likely to be long
exempted from it.
A little beyond Urdingen, the town of
Bodberg marks the northern extremity of
the long and narrow dominions of Cologne,
once fo far connected with Holland, as
that the Archbifhop had jurifdiction over the

GERMANY. uy
the Bifhop of Holland, and the Chapter of
Utrecht. But Philip the Second, before the
States had refifted his plundering, obtained
of the Pope, that they fhould not be fub-
ject to any foreign fee ; and the Bifhop had
a refidence affigned to him at Haerlem.
The Rhine is now bounded on the left
by the country of Meurs ; and, Having, af
ter a few miles, part of the Du'chy of Cleves
on the right, it becomes thus enclofed by
the territories of the King of Pruffia, under
whofe dominion it rolls, till the States of
Guelderland repofe upon one bank, and,
foon after, thofe of Utrecht, on the other.
We were here, of courfe, in the country of
tolls ; and our waterman could not promife
how far we fhould proceed in the day, fince
it was impoffible to eftimate the delays of
the collectors. Meurs has no place, except
fmall villages, near the river ; but, at the
commencement of the Duchy of Cleves, the
I 3 influx

nS GERMANY
influx of the Ruhr into the Rhine makes
a fmall port, at which all veffels are obliged
to ftop, and pay for a Pruffian pafs. Some
Dutch barks, of probably one hundred and
twenty tons burthen, we were affured
would not be difmiffed for lefs than fifty
ducats, or twenty guineas each. The town
is called the Ruhort, and we had abun
dance of time to view it, for the Collector
would not come to the boat, but ordered
: that we fhould walk up, and make our ap
pearance before him.
It is a fmall place, rendered bufy by a
dock-yard for building veffels to be em
ployed on the Rhine, and has fomewhat of
the frefh appearance, exhibited by fuch
towns as feem to be built for prefent ufe,
rather than to fubfift becaufe they have once
been erected. In the dock, which opens to
the Ruhr, two veffels of about fixty tons
each were nearly finifhed, and with more
capital,

GERMANY. 119
capital, many might no doubt be built for
the Dutch, timber and labour being here
much cheaper than in Holland.
After the boatman had fatisfied the Cote
lector, we refumed our voyage, very well
contented to have been detained only an
hour. The woody heights of Cleves now
broke the flat monotony of the eaftern
fhore, the antiquity of whofe forefts is com
memorated by Tacitus in the name of Sat-
tus Teutoburgenjis, fuppofed to have been
bounded here by the town now called
Duifbourg :
*. ^ _ ^ « baud procul Teutoburgenfi faltUj
in quo reliquia Vari legionumque mfepilta dice*
bantur"^-* " Unburied remain^
Inglorious on the plain/*
1 4 Thefe

,-i2o GERMANY.
% Thefe forefts were alfo celebrated for
their herds of wild, horfes ; and the town
of Duifbourg, having been' rendered an
Univerfity in 1655, is thus panegyrized by
a German poet :
Dis ijl die Deutfche Burg, vor langft gar bocb-
geebrt
Von vielen K'onig und auch Kaiferlicben Kronen :
Der fchone Mufenthron, wo Huge Leute wohnen ;
Und wo die Kaufmannfchaft fo manchen Burger
n'dhrt.
This is the German town, that 's fam'd fb long
By throned Kings, and gentle Mufes' fong ;
. Where learned folks live well on princely pay,
- .And commerce makes fo many Burghers gay.
Of the commerce there were ftill fome
figns in half a dozen veffels, collected on
the beach. Whether the Univerfity alfo
fubfifts, or is any, thing more than a free
fchool,

GERMANY. 121
fchool, which is frequently called an Uni
verfity in Germany, we did not learn, -Vv

WESEL.

After five or fix fmall towns, or
villages, more, the Rhine reaches the well
known fortified town and ftate prifon of
Wefel ; a place, not always unfavourable to
freedom, for here Rapin, driven from the
diftrict now called La Vendee in France,
by Louis the Fourteenth's perfecution of
Proteftants, retired to write his Hiftory ;
recollecting, perhaps, that it had before
fheltered refugees from the, tyranny of the
Duke of Alva, and our fanguinary Mary.
The towers and citadel of Wefel give it
the appearance of a military place, and it is
frequently fo-' mentioned ; but the truth is,
that

122 GERMANY.
that the late King of Pruffia^ with the, fame
fear of his fubjects, which was felt c by
Jofeph the Second in Flanders, demolifhed
all the effectual works, except thofe. of the
citadel; a policy not very injurious to the
Monarch in this inftance,ubut which, in
Flanders, has fubmitted the country to be
twice over-run in three .years, and has in
factjbeert the moft deeifive of paffed events
in their influence upon prefent circum-
ftances. j The reformed worfhip is exercifed in the
two principal churches, but the Catholics
have two or three monafteries, and there is
a Chapter^ of Noble Ladies, of whom two
thirds are Proteftants, and one third Ca
tholic ; an arrangement i which probably ac
counts for their having no fettled and com
mon refidence. 0.3v* ;r; .iuifii£7 ..;..-. ~;: ::
Oppofite to Wefel is Burick', "the fortifi
cations of which remain, and are probably
¦¦¦>Sx intended

GERMANY.* 123
intended to ferve inftead of the demolifhed
works ofthe former place, being eonnedted
.with it by a flying-bridge over the Rhine.
A little ' lower, are the remains of the old
chateau of Furftemberg, on a hill where the
ladies of the noble Ciftercian nunnery of
Furftemberg had once a delightful feat, now
deferted for the fociety of Xanten.
Xanten, the firft place at which we had
flopped in Germany, and the laft, for a
long tract, which we had feen with plea-
fure, Xanten, now diftinguifhable, at a fmall
diftance from the river, by its fpires, re
minded us of the gay hopes we had formed
on leaving it ; with a new world fpread out
before us, for curiofity, and, as we thought,
for\ admiration ; yet did: not render the re
membrance, of difappointment, as to the laft
refpedt, painful, for even the little informa
tion we had gained feemed to be worth the
labour of acquiring it. The

224 GERMANY.
•The exchange of indefinite for exact
ideas is for ever* definable. Without this
journey of eleven or twelve hundred miles
we fhould have confidered Germany, as its
pofition in maps and defcription in books
reprefent it, to be important, powerful and
profperous ; or, even if it had been called
wretched* the idea would have been indif-
tinct, and the affertion, perhaps, not wholly
credited. The greateft andj as it is reafon-
able to believe, the beft part of Germany
we have now feen, and, in whatever train
of reafoning it is noticed, have an opinion
how it fhould be valued. Thofe, who can
not guefs at caufes, may be fure of effects ;
and having feen, that there is little indivi
dual profperity in Germany, little diffufion
of intelligence, manners, or even ofthe
means for comfort, few fources of inde
pendence, or honourable wealth, and no
examples of the poverty, in which there may

GERMANY. 125
may be pride, it was not lefs perceptible,
that there can be no general importance, no
weight in the balance of ufeful, that is,
peaceful power, and no place, but that of
an inftrument, even in the defiperate exer*
cifes of politics.
A refpect for the perfons of learning, or
thought, who live, as the impertinence of
high and the ignorance of low fociety
forces them to live, in a ftrict and fafli-
dious retirement, cannot -alter the general
eftimation of the country, in any refpect
here confidered ; their converfation with
each other has no influence upon the com
munity ; their works cannot have a prefent,
though they will have a general and a per
manent effect. The humbler claffes, from
whom profperity fhould refult in peace, and
flrength in war, give little of either to Ger-»
many ; and man is very feldom negatively
ftatioried; when \ not ufefui to his. feliow-
creatures,

iz6 GERMANY.
creatures, he is generally fomewhat inju
rious. The fubftantial debafetnent of the
German peafantry, that is, their want of
ordinary intelligence, re-acts upon the means
that produced it, and, continuing their in
feriority, continues many injurious effects
upon tbe reft of Europe.
That Germany fhould be thus effentiaUy
humble, perhaps, none would have ventured
to forefee. The materialift could not have
found it in the climate. The politician
might haftily expect it from the arbitrary
character of the governments, but muft
hefitate, when he recollects how France ad-*
vanced in fcience and manufactures, under
the dominion of Louis the Fourteenth,
greatly mpre defpotic than the ufuaj ad-
miniftrations in Germany. Perhaps, the
only folution for this difference of effects
from apparently fimilar caufes is, that the
greater extent of his territory, as well as
the.

GERMANY. 127
the better opportunities of his fubjects for
commerce, enabled Louis to gratify his tafle
for fplendour, at the fame time that they
fhewed his ambition a means of indulgence,
by increafing > the means of his people.
Germany, frittered into feveral fcore of fo-1
vereignties, has no opulent power ; no con-
fiderable. income, remaining: after the pay
ment of its armies ; few wealthy indivi
duals. The Emperor, with fifty-fix titles,'
does not gain a florin by his chief dignity f.
or Granyelle, the Minifler of Charles the
Fifth, would have been contracjiete.d when '
he faid fo in the Chamber of Princes. The
Elector Palatine is almoft the only Prince,'
whofe revenue is not abforbed by politicajj
military and hpufehold eftabliftimertts ; and
though, in an advanced ftate of fociety, or
in opulent nations,. what is called patronage
\& feldom neceffary, and muft,1 perhaps, be
as injurious to the happinefs as it is? to the a
dignity

12-8 GERMANY.
dagjafty of thofe who receive it, nothing-.' 1/
more certain than that there have been
periods in the hiftory of all countries, when
the liberality of the Prince, or the more in*.
dependent protection of beneficed infb'ru-
tion*, was neceffary to the exiftence of
curiofity and knowledge. At fuch times,
a large expenditure, if directed by tafte, ot'
even by vanity, afforded a flow recompenfe
for the aggreffions, that might fupport it,
by fpreading a defire of diftinction for fome
intellectual accomplifhmeiit, as the claim to
notice from the court ; and the improve
ment of mind circulated, by more general
encouragement, till every toWn and village
had its men of fcience. Thus it was that
the defpotifm of Louis the Fourteenth had
a different effect from that of his contem
porary German Princes, who, by no op-
preffions, could raife a fufficient income, tq :
make their own expenditure the 'involun tary

GERMANY. 129
tary means of improving the intellectual
condition of their people.
From the neighbourhood of Xanten, in
which we were induced thus to eftimate
what had beeh gained; fince we faw it laft,
and from a fhore that gradually rifes into
the many woody heights around Calcar and
Cleves, the Rhine fpeedijy reaches Rees, a
town on the right bank} built advaritage-
oufly at an angle, made by a flexure of the
river to the left*
We landed to view this place, and were,
foon perfuaded, by the Dutch-like cleanli-
nefs and civility of the people at the inn,
to remain there for the night, rather than to
attempt reaching Emmericki
Rees is near enough to Holland to have
fome of its advantages; and, whatever con
tempt it may be natural for Englifh travel
lers; at the commencement of their tour, to
feel for Dutch dullnefs and covetoufnefs,
vol* 11. K nothing

i3o GERMANY.
nothing but fome experience of Germany
is neceffary to make them^ejoice in a re
turn -to the neatnefs, the civility, the com
forts, quietnefs, and even the good humour
and intelligence to be eafily found in Hol
land. Such, at leaft, was the change, pro
duced in our minds by a journey from Ni»
meguen to Friburg. rThe lower claffes of
the Dutch, and it is the' conduct*" of fuch
claffes, that every* where has the chief in
fluence upon the comforts of others, are not
only wkhout^the malignant «fullennefe;i of
the* Germans, and, therefore,, ready to re
turn you ferviees for money, but are alfo
much fuperior to them in intelligence and
docility. Frequent opportunities of gain^
and the habit of comparing them, s fharpen
intellects, which might otherwife never be
exercifed. « In a commercial country, the
humbleft perfons have opportunities of pro*
firing , by their qualifications; they Lavei
therefore,

GERMANY 131
therefore^ in fome degree, prepared for bet
ter conditions^ and do not feel that angry
envy of others, which arifes from the con-
fcioufnefs of fome irremediable diftinction. .;
The" inhabitants of Rees fpeak both
Dutch, and German ; and it was pleafing to
hear at the inn the fulky yaw of the latter
exchanged for the civil Taw well^Mynheer,
of the Dutch* The«town is built chiefly
of brick, like thofe in Holland ; the ftreets
light ; the market-place fpaeious, and the
houfes well preferved. It is of no great
extent, but the fpace within the walls is
filled,* though this muft have been fome
times partly cleared by the fieges^ to which
Rees was fubject in the war of Philip the
Second upon the Dutch. A few emigrants
from Bruffels and Maeftricht were now
Sheltered in it ; but there was no garrifon
and no other fymptorn of its neighbour
hood to the?fcene of hoftilities, than the
K 2 arrival

132 GERMANY
arrival ofa Pruffian commiffary to collect
hay and corn. We were cheered by the
re-appearance of profperity in a country^
where it is fo feldom to be feen, and- paffed
a better evening in this little town, than in
any other between Friburg? and Holland.
In the morning, having no difguft to
impel us, we were fomewhat tardy in em
barking ; and the boatmen, who had found
out the way of reviving our impatience,
talked of the great 'diftance of Holland, till
they had us on board. Five or fix well-
looking villages prefently appear after leav
ing Rees/ the next port to which is Em-
merick, once an Hanfeatic town, and : ftill
a place of fome dignity, from fpires and
towers, but certainly not of much cottv-
merce, for we could not fee more than two
veffels on the beach.
This is the town, at which a Governor
and General, appointed' by Philip the Se
cond,

GERMANY. 133
cpnd,.> with prpbably half a dozen titles,
afferting his excellence, ferenity and honPujr,
gave an inftance of bafenefs, fcarcely ever
exceeded^ even* by Philip himfelf. ?, Ap
proaching the place, which was then neu
tral, the inhabitants went out to him with
an entreaty, that he would not fend trpops
into it, and, probably by fomething more
than" entreaty, obtained his promife, that
they fhould be fpared. In fpite of this pro
mife, ofthe remonftrances of the inhabitants,.
and of the reprefentations of a clergyman,
that the Spanifh affurances of havingjfen-
gaged in thecwar chiefly for the interefts
of the Catholic - religion could not be cre
dited, if acts, contrary to the precepts, of
all religion, were daily perpetrated ; in fpite
of thefe, Mendoza, the Spanifh commander,
fent in four hundred troops, but with ano
ther prOmife,;fhat their number fhould not
be increafecl, and with this confolation for
K3 the

134 GERMANY.
the burgeffes, that the Spanifh Colonel of
the detachment was directed to fwear in
their prefence, to admit no more, even if
they fhould be offered to him.
Mendoza had eftimated this man's heart
by his own, and confidered his oath only
as a convenient delufion for preventing the
refiftance of the inhabitants. He accord
ingly fent other troops to him, under the
command of a foreign hireling, and with
a peremptory order for their admiffion ;
but the honeft Spaniard gatve him this re
ply, «' Though the General has fet the ex
ample I will not violate my faith."
Paffing , Emmerick with much pleafure,
we fpeedily came to the point at which the
Rhine, dividing itfelf into two ftreams, lofes
its name immediately irt the one, and pre-
ently after in the other. Some writer'rks
compared this merging to- the voluntary
furrender of exertions and, views, -by wliich
affectionate

GERMANY. 1^5
;affe^ipnate parents lofe themfelves in their
children. The. ftream, which bends to the
weft, takes the name ofthe Waal; that,
which flows in the general direction of the
river, retains its name, for a few miles,
when another ftream iffues to the north
ward, and takes that of the Yffel. The
pld river is ftill recognized, after this fepa*
ration, and the town of Rhenen takes its
name from it ; but, about a mile lower, it
yields to the denomination of the Leek,
which, like that ofthe Waal, does not long
enjoy its ufurped diftinction. The WaaJ,
or Wahl, being joined by the Maas, as the
Dutch, or the Meufe, as the French call it,
near Bommel, takes the name of that river,
and, foon after, the Leek merges in their
united ftream, which carries the title of the
Maas by Rotterdam, Schiedam and Flaai>
ding^ into the German ocean.
We; did not yield to this artificial diftinc-
v K4 tion,

?36 GERMANY.
-tion, fo far as to think ourfelves taking- leave
of the,- Rhine, or |pfing the ftream, that
had prefented to us, at firft, features of the
bpldeft grandeur, mingled with others of
thefweeteft beauty, and then borne us fafe-
ly paft a. fhore, prefted by the hafty fteps of
diftrefs, . as well as threatened by thofe of
ravage from a flying and a purfuing army.
Nor does the river, change the character it
has lately aftumed ; but ftill paffes with an
even, wide and forceful current between
cultivated or paftoral levels, bounded, at
fome diftance, by gradual, woody afcents.
Among thefe heights and woods, Cleyes
is vifible tp the left, and thofe, who fee it
only a|: this diftance, may repeat the dic
tionary defcripjions of fts grandeur and con
fluence as a capita]. Soon after, Sehenck-
enkanze, a fmall fort, built on the point pf
the long ifland, round which the, Rhine
and the Waal flow, , occurs ; and then the
fouthern

HOL-LAND. 137
fbuthern extremity of the province of
Utrecht. We were glad to fee this com
mencement of the dominions of the United
States, though the fhore oppofite to them
Was ftill Pruffian ; and, telling the boat-
jpen, if they had occafion to ftopr at any
town, to touch only upon the free bank,
thpy humoured us fo far as to row Put of
the current fpr the fake of approaching it ;
in fhort, we flepped no more upon German
land ; and, within a few miles, were en-
yeloped, on both fides, by the prospering,
abounding plains of the Dutch provinces.
Italiam! Italiaml

Early in the afternoon, the lofty tower
of the Belvidere, or profpect-houfe at NiT
meguen, came in fight; then the bright
pinnacles of the public buildings, and the

high,

138 HOLLAND.
high, turf-coloured angles of the fortifica
tions. The town was thronged with fugi
tives from Flanders, but we found fufficient
accommodation, as before, at the inn in
the market-place, and were not in a tone
of fpirits to be faftidious about any thing,
heightened as the appearance of profjperity
was to us by contraft, and happy as even
the refugees appeared to be at finding
peace and fafety. The mall before the
Prince of Orange's houfe was filled with
parties of them, as gay as if they had left
their homes in Flanders but for an holiday
excurfion. We were at the Belvidere till evening,
lingering over the rich profpect; of pro
bably forty miles diameter, from Arnheim
and Duifbourg in the north to Cleves and
Guelders in the fouth, with an eaftern view
oyer half the forefts of Guelderiand to thofe
of Weftphalia. Such an extent of greeir
landfcape,

HOLLAND. 139
landfcape, richly varied with towns, villages
and woods, fpreading and gradually amend
ing to the horizon, was nOw almoft as novel
to us, as it ^was placidly beautiful. On the
eaft, the blue mountainous lines of Ger
many broke in upon the repofing character
of the fcene.
In the "Waal below, two or three veffels
bore the Emperor's flag, and were laden, as
it was faid, with fome of his regalia from
Flanders. Near them, feveral bilanders, the
decks of which were covered with awnings,
had attracted fpectators to the oppofite
bank, for to that fide only they were open j
and the company in all were objects of cu-
riofity to the Dutch, being no lefs than the
fifterhood of feveral Flemifh Convents, in
their proper dreffes, and under the care of
their refpective abbeffes. Thefe ladies had
4>een thus fituated, for feveral 'days and
"'nights, which they had paffed on board^ their:

j4o HOLLAND,
their veffels. a They were attended by then*
ufual fervants, and remained together, with*
out going on fhore, being in expectation^
as we were told, of invitations to fuitable
refidences in Germany y1 but 'it was then
reported at Nimeguen, that Prince Cobourg
was re-advancing to Bruffels, and thefe fo-
cieties had probably their misfortunef insl
creafed by the artifices of a political rumour.
We could not learn, as we wifhed, that they
had ^brought away many effects* 3 Their
plate it was npedlefs to enquire about;'" the
contributions, pf«cthe preceding fpring had
no doubt rfwallowed up that. 3 Having dif-
miffed our Cologne watermen, we embarked
upon the Waal, the -next day, in a public
boat for 'Rptterdam ; a neat fchuyt, well
equipped1 and navigated, in which, for a
few' florins, you have the ufe of the cabin.
Our voyage"," from the want of wind, wai
flow encuglrto flie'vy/ as much as could be
d" feen.

HOLLAND. 141
feen ofthe Waal; which, at Nimeguen,
runs almoft conftantly downward, but is
foon met by the tide,: and overcome, or, at
leaft, refilled by it. The breadth, which
varies but little above Bommel, is, to our
recolledtion, not lefs than that of< the
Thames, at Fulham ; the depth, during the
beginning of the fame fpace, is probably
confiderable, in the ftream, for, even upon
the fhore, our dextrous old fteerfman found
water enough to fweep the rufhy bank at
almoft every tack, with a boat, drawing
about five feet. The figns of activity in
commerce are aftonifhing. , A fmall hamlet,
one cannot call any place in Holland con
temptible, or miferable, a hamlet of a dozen
houfes has two or three veffels, of twenty
tons ¦> each ; a village has a herring boat
for almoft every houfe, and a. trading veffel
for Rotterdam two or three times a week.
Heavy, , high rigged veffels, fcarcely breafi- ing

i42 Holland;
ing the ftream, and fit only for river vdy»
ages, we frequently met ; many of them
carrying coals , for the nearer part of G.er*
many, fuch as we faw on the banks between
Rees and Nimeguen, and, with much plea*
fure, recognized for fymptoms of neigh?
bourhood to England. ,
The firft town from Nimeguen, on the
right bank pf the Waal, is Thiel, whkh we
had only time to fee was epclofed by mG-
dern fortifications, and was not. inferior in
neatnefs to other Dutch towns, at leaft not
fo in one good ftreet, which, we were able
to traverfe. A fand bank before the port
has much leffened the trade of the place,
which, in the tenth century, was eonfider*
able enough to be acknowledged . by the
Emperor Otto, in the grant of feveral pri
vileges. About a league lower, on the oppofite"
fide of the Waal, or rather on the fmall
' ifland

HOLLAND. 143
ifknd of Voorn, flood formerly a fort, call
ed Naffau, which the Trench, in 1672,
utterly deftroyedi Near its -lite, at the
northern extremity of the ifland of Bom-
mel, which lies between the Maas and the
Waal, a fort, built by Cardinal Andrew of
Auftria, 'ftill fubfifts, under the name of
Fort St. JbtdfL The founder, who built it
upon the model of the citadel of Antwerp,
had no other view than to command by it
the town of Bommel; but, in the year
1600, Prince Maurice of Naffau reduced
the garrifon, after a fiege of five weeks,
and it has fince contributed to protect what
it was raifed to deftroy, tlie independence
ofthe Dutch commonwealth.
; In the evening, we came oppofite to the
town of Bommel, where we were put on
fhore to pafs the night and the next day,
hdixg Sunday; the boat proceeded on the
Voyage' for Rotterdam, but could not reach
& before the next morning. * 1
Bommel

144. HOLLAND!
Bommel is a fmall town on the edge of
the. river, furrounded by wood enough to
make it remarkable in Holland ; light, neat
and pretty. The two principal ftreets crofi
each other at right angles, and are without'
canals. Being at fome diftance from the
general road*, it is ill provided with inns ;
but one pf them has a delightful profpectj
and there is no dirt, or other fymptom of
negligence within. The inhabitants are
advanced enough in profperity and intelli*
gent curiofity to have two Societes, where
they meet to read new publications ; a lux
ury, which may be found in almoft every
Dutch town. At the ends of the two prin
cipal ftreets are gates ; that towards the
water .between very old walls; thofe on the
land fide modern and flronger, with draw
bridges over a wide foffe, that nearly fur-,
rounds the town.
v°n. *he P&F» Cde of this, ditch, are high.
and broad embankments, well planted with
trees,

HOLLAND. i4j
trees, and fo fuitablq to be ufed as public
walks, that we'mppofed^ them to have been
raifed partly for that purpofe, and partly as
defences to the country againft water.
They are, however, greater curiofities, hav
ing been thrown up by Prince Maurice in
1599, 'chiefly becaufe his garrifon of four
thoufand foot and two thoufand horfe were'
too numerous for the old works; and be
tween thefe intrenChments was made what
is thought to have been the firft attempt at
a covered Way, fince improved into a regu
lar part of fortifications. This was during
the ineffectual fiege of three weeks, in
which Mendoza loft two thoufand men,
Maurice having then a conftant communi
cation With the oppofite bank of the Waal
by'" means' of two bridges of boats, one
above, the other below the town.
Bommel was otherwife extremely im-
portant in the ftruggle of the Dutch againft
Vol. 11. L Philip.

146 HOLLAND.
Philip. ' It was once planned to have beett
delivered by treachery, but, that being dif
covered, the Earl of Mansfeldt, Philip's
commander, raifed the fiege. It adhered
to the affembly at Dort, though the Earl of
March, the commander of the firft armed
force of the Flemings, had committed fuch
violences in the town, that the Prince of
Orange found it neceffary to fend him to
prifon. In the campaign of 1606, when
Prince Maurice adopted defenfive opera
tions, this was one of the extreme points
of his line, which extended from hence to
Schenck. The natural honefty of mankind is on
the fide of the defenfive party, and it is,
therefore, that in reading accounts of fieges
ope is always on the ^de °f ^e befieged.
The Dutch, except when fubject to fome
extraordinary influence, have been always
defenfive in their wars ; from their firft
aftonifhing

HOLLAND. 147
aftbnifhuig % refiftance to Philip, to that
againft' the petty attack, which Charles the
Second incited the Bifhop of Munfter 'to''
make, who had the coolnefs to tell Sir
• -K-' ¦' . -' - '-."'1' ¦„ i/'.r "',¦-¦• ¦ ¦
William Temple, that he had thought
over the probabilities of his enterprife, and,
if it failed, he fhould not care, for he could
go into Italy and buy a Cardinal's cap ;
but that lie had firft a mind to make fome
¦figure in the world. The territory of the
United Provinces is fo fmall, thatj in thefe
warsj the whole Dutch Nation has been
in little better condition, than that of a
people, befieged in one great town; and
Louis the Fourteenth, in the attempt, which
Charles the Second's wicked filler concerted
between the two Monarchs, fent, for the
firft time, to a whole people, a threat, fimi
lar to thofe fometimes ufed againft a fingle
town. His declaration of the 24th of June,
1672, after boafting how his " juft defigns"
L 2 and

148 HOLLAND.
and undertakings had profpered, fince his
arrival in the army, and how he would treat
the Dutch, if, by fubmiffion, they would
" deferve his great goodnefs," thus pro-
ceeds :
" On the contrary, all of whatever qua
lity and condition, who fhall refufe to com
ply with thefe offers, and fhall refill his
Majefty's forces, either by the inundation
of their dyke, or otherwife, fhall be pu-
nifhed with the utmoft rigour. At prefent,
all hoftilities fhall be ufed againft thofe,
who oppofe his Majefty's defigns ; and,
when the ice fhall open a paffage on all
fides, his Majefty will not give any quarter
to the inhabitants of fuch cities, but give
order, that their goods be plundered and
their houfes burnt."
It is pleafant, in every country, to cherifh
the recollections, which make it a fjpectacle
for the mind as well as the eye, and no
country

HOLLAND. 149
country is enriched by fo many as Holland,
not even the Weft of England, where pa-
triotifm and gratitude hover in rememT.
brance over the places, endeared by the
fteps of our glorious William.
Bommel is built on a broad projection
of the ifland of the fame name into the
Waal, which thus flows nearly on two fides
of its walls, and muft be effectually com
manded by them. But, though it is there
fore important in a military view, and that
the French were now fo near to Breda, as
to induce families to fly from thence, whom
we faw at Bommel, yet the latter place was
in no readinefs for defence. There was not
a cannon upon the walls, or UpOn the an-
tient outworks, which we miftook for ter
races, and hot ten foidiers in the place ; a
negligence, which was, however, immedi
ately after remedied.
"The Dutch tardinefs of exertion has been
L- 3 "" often

150 HOLLAND,
often blamed, and, in fuch inftances, de?
fervedly; but, as to the influence of this
fparingnefs hi their general fyftem of poli
tics artd in former periods, a great deal
more wit than truth has been circulated by
politicians. The -chief value of power is
in the known poffeffion of it. Thofe who
are believed to have exerted it much, will
be attacked, becaufe the exertion may be
-fuppofed to have ' exhaufted the, power.
The nation, or the individual, that attempts
,tot rectify every error and punifh. every tri
vial offence of others, may foon lofe, in
worthlefs contefts, the ftrength., that fhould
be preferved for refifting the moft pofitive
and unequivocal attacks.
u^Minifters have appeared in Holland, who
could plan unneceffary contefts, and medi
tate the bafenefs, falfely called ambition, pf
putting the whole valour and wealth of a,
nation into exercife, for the purpofe of en
forcing

HOLLAND. i:5 1
forcing whatever they may have- once de-
figned, or faid ; and, as there is, perhaps,
no country in Europe, which cannot juftly
allege fome injury againft another, they
have exaggerated the importance of fuch
injuries, for the purpofe of impelling their
own country, by aggravated anger, or fear,
into precipitate hofjtilities. But the Dutch,
accuftoming themfelves to as much vigi
lance, as confidence, have withheld encou
ragement from fuch artifices, and hence that
general tardinefs in beginning wars, which
every politician, capable of an inflamma
tory declamation, thinks it wifdom to ridi?-
cule. We left Bommel at feven in the morn
ing, in a flout, decked fea-boat, well rigged,
and, as appeared, very dextroufly navigated.
Tlie wind was, directly contrary, and there
are fometimes iflands, fometimes. fhoals in
the Waal, which narrowed the channel to
L 4 four

i52 HOLLAND.
four or five times the length of the veffel ;
yet there >was not any failure in tacking,
and the boom was frequently affifted.i to
traverfe by the reeds of the bank, wliich it
fwept. The company in* the cabin were
not very numerous, but there was amongft
them ^at7- leaft /.one lamentable group; the
minifler of a Proteftant church at Maef
tricht, an aged and decrepid gentleman, fly
ing with his wife and two daughters from
the approaching fiege of that place ; himfelf
laid on pillows upon the floor of the cabin ;
his daughters attending him ; all neglected,
all victims to the glories of war. ?r!'
te The boat foon paffed Louvenftein,; on
the left bank of the Maefe, a brick caftel-
lated building,- apparently about two centu -
ries old, furrounded by fome modern works,
which render it ope of .the defences ofthe
- river. Count Byland, the late commander
pf Breda, was then imprifoned in this for
trefs,

HO L L A N DV 153
trefs, Which has- been long ufed for ftate
purpofes. Here thofe friends of Barne-
veldf were confined, who derived from it,
arid left to their pofterity the name of the
Louvenftein party ; and hence Grotius, who
was" of the number, made his efcape, con
cealed in a trunk, which the fentinels had
fo often feen filled with Arminian books,
that his wife perfuaded them they carried
nothing more than their ufual cargo.
From Louvenftein, near which the Waal
unites with the Maefe, and affumes' the
naime of that river, we foon reached Gor-
cum, where the fhort ftay of the boat per
mitted us only to obferve the neatnefs of
the town, and that the fortifications' had
the appearance oft being ftrong, though
fmall, and feemed to be in moft exact re
pair: This,' indeed, is one of the forts
chiefly relied upon by the province of Hol-
-iand ; for, in 1787, their States made Gor- cura

154 HOLLAND.
cum and Naarden the extreme points of
their line of defence, and ordered a dyke
to be thrown acrofs the Linge, which flows
into the Maefe at the former place, for the
purpofe of overflowing the furrounding;
country. The next town in the voyage is Dort,
formerly one of the moft confiderable in
Holland, and ftill eminent for its wealth,
though the trade is diminifhed by that of
Rotterdam. This is the town, which Du*
mourier ftrove to reach, in the invafion of
1792, and forty thoufand ftand of arms
were found to have been collected there
for him. Our boat paffed before one quar
ter, in which the houfes rife immediately
oyer a broad bay of the Maefe, with an
air of uncommon gaiety and lightnefs ; but
the evennefs of- the town prevented us from
feeing more than the part directly neareft.A
{n, the bay was one of thofe huge timber
1 floats,,

HOLLAND. i55
floats, the conftruction of which has been
before defcribed. It was crowded with
vifitors from the town ; and the wooden
huts upon it, being ornamented with flags,
had the appearance of booths at a fair.
Large as this was, it had" been confiderably
diminifhed, fince its arrival at Dort, and
feveral hundreds of tlie workmen had de
parted. A little further on, and within fight of
this joyous company, was the melancholy
reverie of nearly an hundred ladies, driven
from fome conyent in Flanders, now re-
fiding, like thofe near < Nimeguen, in bi-
janders moored to the bank. Their veffels
being open pn the fide towards the water,
Wc caught as full a view of them as could
be- had, without diftefpect ; and faw that
they ftill wore their conventual dreffes, and
were feated, apparently according to their
ages, at fome fort of needle- work. It might have

156 HOLLAND.
have been cenfured, a few years fince, that
miftakes, or deceptions, as to religious du-r
ties, fhould have driven them from the
world ; but it was certainly now only to be
lamented, that any thing fhort of the gra
dual and peaceful progrefs of reafon fhpuld
have expelled them from their retirement.
- .We reached Rotterdam, in the evening,
and flayed there, the next, day, to obferve
whether the confidence of the Dutch in
their dykes and fortreffes was fufficient to
preferve their tranquillity in a place almoft
within hearing of the war, the French being
then befieging Sluys. There was no per
ceptible fymptom of agitation, or any dimi
nution of the ordinary means for increafing
wealth. The perfons, with whom we con-
verfed, and they were not. a few, (poke.. of
the tranfactions of the campaign with al
moft as much calmnefs and curiofity, as if
thefe had been paffing 3 in India.,,. They could.

HOLLAND. 157
could not fuppofe it poffible, that the French
migfit reach the city ; or, if they did, feem
ed to rely upon the facility, with which their
property could be removed by the canals
through Leyden and Haerlem, to the fhore
of the Zuyder Zee, then acrofs it by failing
barges, and then again by the canals as far
as Groningen, whither the French would
certainly not penetrate. So valuable was
water thought in Holland, not only as a
means of opulence in peace, but of de
fence, or prefervative flight in war. An
exceffive felfifhnefs, which is the vice of
the Dutch, appeared fometimes to prevent
thofe, who could fly, from thinking of their
remaining countrymen.
An intention of difpenfing with the cuf-
tomary fair was the only circumftance,
Which diftinguifhed this feafon from others
at Rotterdam, and that was imputed to the
prudence cf preventing ar
meetings ofthe populace.

prudence cf preventing any very numerous/

About

158 HOLLAND.
About three weeks fooner than was fie-s
ceffary, for it was fo long before a conve
nient paffage occurred, we went from hence
to Helvoetfluys, and there remained, a fort*
night, watching an inflexible north-wefterly
wind, and lifteuing to accounts but too
truly certified of French frigates and priva
teers, almoft uhoppofed in thofe latitudes.
Lloyd's Lift brought the names of five, or
feven, French fhips, then known to be
cruifing in the north ; and one packet Was1
delayed in its voyage by the fight of feveral
Dutch veffels, fet on fire within a few
leagues of Goree. The Dutch lamented^
that the want of feamen crippled the opera^
tions of their Admiralty Board ; an En-
glifhman, who was proud to deny, that any
fuchwattr,'Or want in fuch' a degree, exifted,
as to his country, was reduced to filence and
fhame/when it was enquired," Why, then,
have thefe- feas been, for twelve months, thus"
exppfed to the dominion of the French ? At

H OIL LAND. 159
At length, a convoy arrived for a noble
family, and .we endeavoured to take the
benefit of it by embarking in a packet,
which failed at the fame time ; but the
IloOp of war was unable to pafs over what
are called the Flats, and our captain had
refolved to proceed without it, notwith
standing the contrarieties of the wind,
when, with muchjoy, we difcerned a fmall
boat, and knew it to be Englifh by the
Ikilful impetuofity of the rowers. Having
induced the people of the packet to make a
fignal, by paying them for the paffage to
Harwich, we were fortunately taken on
board this boat, at the diftance of about
three leagues from Helvoetfluys, and foon
re-landed at that place ; the packet proceed
ing on her voyage, which, fuppofing no
interruption from the French yeffelsj was
not likely to be made in lefs than three
days. We rejoiced at the releafe from
fatigue

i6o\ HOLLAND.
fatigue and from fear, at leaft, if not front
danger ; and, feeing little probability of an
immediate paffage, returned, the next day,
to Rotterdam, with the hope of finding
fome neutral veffel, bound to an Englifh
port. We were immediately gratified by the
promife of an American captain to meet us
with his veffel at Helvoetfluys, and, the
next day, had a delightful voyage thither,
in a hired yacht, partly by the Maefe, and
partly by channels inacceffible to large
veffels.

FLAAR-

HOLLAND. 161

FLAARDING.

1 he Maefe prefently brought us
oppofite to this fmall port, the metropolis
of the herring fifhers ; rendered interefting
by the patient induftry and ufeful courage
of its inhabitants. We landed at it, but
faw only what was immediately open for
obferyation. Like moft of the Dutch towns,
on the banks of rivers, it is protected from
floods by flanding at the diftance of three
or four hundred yards from the fhore, and
communicates with the ftream only by a
narrow, but deep canal. The beft ftreet is
built upon the quays of this channel, on
which the herring boats depofit their car
goes before the doors ofthe owners. We
$d not fee more than fifty, a great num-
ypL, ii. M ber

162 HOLLAND.
ber being then at fea. Except the bufinefs,
in this ftreet, and the fmell of herrings,
which prevailed every where, there was
nothing to fhew that we were in a place
fupported folely by the induftry of fifher-
men ; np neglected houfes, no cottages,
no dirty ftreets, no inferiority, in point pf
rieatnefs andbrightnefs, to the other towns
of Holland. , ,T-r
The inhabitants are remarkable for "ad
hering to the drefs, as well as the employ
ments of their anceftors ; fo much fo, that
their clothing is mentioned in other towns
as the reprefentation of the antient national
drefs, common throughout all the pro
vinces two centuries fince ; and it is certain,
that their appearance is exactly fuqh as is
delineated in pictures pf that date.

HOLLAND. 163
Some miles further, we entered the old
Maefe, a channel in ieveral parts very nar
row, and evidently preferved by, art, but
in others nobly expanfive, and filled almoft
to the level of the luxuriant paftures and
groves that border it. In one part, where
the antient ftream takes a circuitous courfe,
a canal has been cut, that fhortens the voy
age, for light veffels, by feveral miles, and
barks in one channel are fometimes vifible
from the other, their fails fwelling over
fields, in which, at a diftance, no water is
difcernible. Neat and fubftantial farm-
houfes, with meadows flanting from them
to the river, frequently occurred ; and there
were more appearances of the careful la*
bours, peculiar to the Dutch, than in the
great Maefe itfelf, the banks being occa
fionally fupported, like their dykes, by a
compact bafket-work of -flags and faggots.
Paffing many fmall villages, or hamlets,
we pame, at fun-fe.t, to the large branch of
M 2 the

164 HOLLAND.
the fea, which fpreads from Williamftadt to
Helvoetfluys, and from thence to the Ger
man ocean. The former forttefs was faintly
vifible at a great diftance over the water;
and, while we were ftraining our fight to
wards it, there was proof enough of a near-
nefs to the prefent theatre of war, the
founds of the fiege of Sluys coming loudly
and diftinctly in the breeze. The charac
ters of evening had fallen upon the fcene
in mild and deep folemnity ; but the glories
of nature were unfelt, while a dreadful
eftimation of the miferies, produced at each
return of the fullen roar, preffed almoft ex-
clufively upon the mind ; confiderations,
which were foon after prolonged by the
melancholy view of feveral Englifh tranf-
ports, filled with wounded foldiers, whofe
blythe mufic, now at the firing of the even
ing gun, was rendered painful by its con
trail to the truth of their conditions. .^0I
At Helvoetfluys, nothing was to be
heardj

HOLLAND. 16$
heard, but accounts, derived from .many
refpectable officers, on their way to Eng
land, of the Unexampled difficulties borne,
cheerfully borne, by the Britifh army, with
in the laft three months, and defervedly
mentioned, not as complaints, but as proofs
of their firmnefs. There were, however,
mingled with thefe, many reports as to the
contrary conduit even of thofe continental
troops, which ftill kept the field with us ;
of their tardinefs, their irregularity, ofthe
readinefs with which they permitted the
Britifh to affume all the dangers of attacks,
and of their little co-operation even in the
means of general refiftance. Brave Angloisl
Bra'Oe Angloisl was the conftant fhout of
thefe troops, when they had recourfe to the
Britifh to regain the pofts themfelves had
juft loft, or to make fome affault, which
they had refufed, or, had attempted with
ineffectual formality. They would then
' ; ¦ -'M 3 ('-' '"*'-' follow

106 HOLLAND.
follow our troops, and, when an advantage
was gained, feemed to think they had fhare
enough of the victory, if they were at hand
to continue the flaughter of the retreating,
and to engrofs all the plunder of the dead.
We were as glad to efcape from fuch
confiderations, as from the crowded inns
of Helvoetfluys, now little more convenient ,
than fhips; and, the next morning, em
barked on board the American veffel, then
arrived from Rotterdam. A fair wind foon
wafted us out of fight of the low coaft of
Holland ; but we were afterwards becalm
ed,' and carried by tides fo far towards the
Flemifh fhore as to have the firing before
Sluys not only audible, but terribly loud.
For part of three days, we remained within
hearing of this noife ; but did not, there
fore, think ourfelves very diftant from the
Englifh coaft, knowing that the fire, at the
preceding fiege of' Nieuport, had been
heard

HOLLAND. 167
heard as far as the Downs ; Nieuport, the
wretched fcene, of fo many maffacres, and
of diftrefs, which, in Holland, had been
forcibly defcribed to us by eye-witneffes.
So keenly, indeed, were the horrors of
this place conceived by thofe, who per-
fonally efcaped from them, that of the
emigrants, refcued by the intrepidity of our
feamen, many fuppreffed all joy at their
own deliverance by lamentations for the
fate pf their brethren. One gentleman was
no fooner on board a fhip, then expofed to
the batteries on fhore, than he climbed the
fhrouds and remained aloft, notwithftanding
all entreaties, till a fevere Wound obliged
him to defcend. Another, who had been
faved from the beach by a young failor,
was unable to fwim fo far as the fhip ;
and the honeft lad, having taken- him upon
his back, ftruggled hard amidft a fhower of
balls to fave both their lives. At length,
M 4 he,

s68 HOLLANDS
he, too, began to falter ; and the weakness
of his efforts, not his complaints, feemed
to fhew his companion, that one, or both
of them, muft perifh : the latter nobly afked
the lad, whether he could fave his own
life, if left to himfelf; and, receiving a re
luctant reply, that probably he might do
fo, but that he would ftrive for both, the
emigrant inftantly plunged into the ocean,
and was feen no more. The glorious failor
reached his fhip, juft as he began again to
fail, and was faved.
The calm continued during the day, and
the fun fet with uncommon grandeur among
elouds of purple, red and gold, that, min
gling" with the ferene azure of the upper
fky, compofed a richnefs and harmony of
colouring which we never faw furpaffed.
It was moft interefting to watch the pro-
grefs of evening and its effect on the wa
ters; ftreaks of light fcattered among the
dark

HOLLAND. 169
dark weftern clouds, after the fun had fet,
and gleaming in long reflection, on the fea,
while a grey obfcurity was drawing over
the eaft, as the vapours rofe gradually from
the ocean. The air was breathlefs ; the tall
fails of the veffel were without motion,
and her courfe upon the deep fcarcely per
ceptible ; while, above, the planet Jupiter
burned with fteady dignity, and threw a
tremulous line of light on the fea, whofe
furfaee flowed in fmooth wavelefs expanfe.
Then, other planets appeared, and count-
lefs flars fpangled the dark waters. Twi
light now pervaded air and ocean, but the
weft was ftill luminous, where one folemn
gleam of dufky red edged the horizon, from
under heavy vapours.
It was now that we firft difcovered fome
fymptoms of England; the Hghthoufe
on the South-Foreland appeared like a
- dawning ftar above the margin of the fea.
The

i7o HOLLAND.
The veffel made little progrefs during
the night. With the earlieft dawn of
morning we were on deck, in the hope of
feeing the Englifh coaft ; but the mifts
veiled it from our view. A fpectacle,
however, the moft grand in nature, repaid
us for our difappointment, and we found
the circumftances of a fun-rife at fea, yet
more interefting than thofe of a fun-fet*
The moon, bright and nearly at her meri
dian, fhed a ftrong luftre on the ocean, and
gleamed between the fails upon the deck }
but the dawn, beginning to glimmer, con
tended with her light, and, foon touching
the waters with a cold grey tint, difcovered
them fpreading all round to the vaft hori
zon. Not a found broke upon the filence*
except the lulling one occalioned by the
courfe of the veffel through the waves, and
now and then the drowfy fong of the pilot*
as he leaned on the helm ; his fhaddwy '
figure

HOLLAND. x7t
figure juft difcerned, and that of a failor
pacing near the head of the fhip with
croffed arms and a rolling ftep. The cap
tain, wrapt in a fea-coat, lay afleep on the
deck, wearied with the early watch. As
the dawn ftrengthened, it difcovered white
fails ftealing along the diftance, and the
flight of fome fea-fowls, as they uttered their
flender cry, and then, dropping upon the
waves, fat floating on the furface. Mean
while, the light tints in the eaft began to
change, and the fkirts ofa line of clouds
below to affume a hue of tawny red, which
gradually became rich orange and purple.
We could now perceive a long tract of the
coaft of France, like a dark ftreak of vapour
hovering in the fouth, and were fomewhat
alarmed on finding ourfelves within view
of the French fhore, while that of England
Was ftill invifible.
The moon-light faded faft from the
waters,

vj% ENGLAND.
waters, and foon the long beams of the ftift
fhot their lines upwards through the clouds
and into the clear blue fky above, and all
the fea below glowed with fiery refle&ions,
for a confiderable time, before his difk ap
peared. At length he rofe from the waves,
looking from under clouds of purple and
gold ; and as' he feemed to touch the water,
a diftant veffel paffed over his difk, like a
dark fpeck.

- We were foon after cheered by the
faintly feen coaft of England, but at the
fame time difcovered, nearer to us on the
fouth-weft, the high blue headlands of Ca
lais; and, more eaftward, the town, with
its large church arid the fleeples of two
others, feated ort the edge of the fea»'; The
woods, that fringe the ¦* fummits of hills
rifing

ENGLAND. 173
rifing over It, were eafily diftinguifhed with
glaffes, as well as the national flag on the
fleeple of the great church. As we pro
ceeded, Calais cliffs, at a confiderable dif
tance weftward of the town, loft their aerial
blue, and fhewed an high front of chalky
precipice, overtopped by dark downs. Be
yond, far to the fouth-weft, and at the foot
of a bold promontory, that fwelled above
all the neighbouring heights, our glaffes
gave us the towers and ramparts of Bou
logne, floping upward from the fhore, with
its tall lighthoufe on a low point running
put into the fea ; the whole appearing with
confiderable dignity and picturefque effect.
The hills beyond were tamer, and funk
gradually away in the horizon. At length,
the breeze wafting us more to the north,
we difcriminated the bolder features of the
Englifh coaft, and, about noon, found our
felves nearly in the middle of the channel, having

i74 ENGLAND.
having Picardy on our left and Kent on the
right, its white cliffs afpiring with great
majefty over the flood. The fweeping bay
of Dover, with all its chalky heights, foon
after opened. The town appeared low on
the fhpre within, and the caftje, with round
and maffy towers, crowned the vaft rock^
which, advancing into the fea, formed the
eaftern point of the crefcent, while Shake-
fpeare's cliff, bolder ftill and fubfime as the
eternal name it bears, was the weftern pro
montory of the bay. The height and gran
deur of this cliff were particularly ftriking,
when a fhip was feen failing at its bafe,
diminifhed by comparifon to an inch.
From hence the cliffs towards Folkftone,
though ftill broken and majeftic, gradually
decline. There are, perhaps, few profpects
pf fea and fhore more animated and mag
nificent than this. The vaft expanfe of
water, the character of the cliffs, that guard thq

ENGLAND. 175
the coaft, the fhips of war and various mer
chantmen moored in the Downs, the lighter
veffels fkimming along the channel, and
the now diftant fhore of France, with Calais
glimmering faintly, and hinting of different
modes of life and a new world, all thefe
circumftances formed a fcene of pre-emi
nent combination, arid led to interefting
reflection. _
Our veffel was boupd to Deal, and,
leaving Dover and its cliffs on the fouth,
we entered that noble bay, which the rich
fhores of Kent open for the fea. .Gentle
hills, fwelling all round from the water,
green with woods, or cultivation, and
fpeckled with towns and villages, with now
and then the towers pf an old fortrefs,
pffered a landfcape particularly cheering to
eyes accuftomed to the monotonous flatnefs
of Dutch, views. And we landed in Eng
land under impreffions pf delight more va
ried

176 ENGLAND,
ried and ftrong than can be conceived,
without referring to the joy of an efcape
from diftricts where there was fcarcely an
home for the natives, and to the love of
our own country, greatly enhanced by all
that had been feen of others.
Between Deal and London, after being
firft ftruck by the fuperior appearance and
manners of the people to thofe of the coun
tries we had been lately accuftomed to, a
contrail too obvious as well as too often re
marked to be again unified upon, but
which made all the ordinary circumftances
of the journey feem new and delightful,
the difference between the landfcapes of
England and Germany occurred forcibly
to notice. The large fcale, in which every
divifion of land appeared in Germany, the
long corn grounds, the huge ftretches of
hills, the vaft plains and the wide vallies
could not but De beautifully oppofed by the
varieties

ENGLAND. 177
Varieties and undulations of Englifh furface,
with gently fwelling flopes, rich in ver*
dure, thick enclofures, woods, bowery hop-
grounds, fheltered manfions, . announcing
the Wealth, and fubftantial farms, with neat
villages, the comfort of the country. Eng-
Ufh landfcape may be compared to cabinet
pictures, delicately beautiful and highly* fi-
nifhed ; German fcenery to paintings for a
veftibule, of bold outline and often fublime,
but coarfe and to be viewed with advan
tage only from a diftance.
Northward, beyond London, we may
make one ftop, after a country, not other-
wife neceffary to be noticed, to mention
Hard wick, in Derbyfhire, a feat of >the
Duke of Devonfliire, once the refidence of
the Earl of Shrewfbury, to whom Eliza
beth deputed the cuftody of the unfortunate
.Mary. It flands on an eafy height, a few
miles to the left of the road from Mansfield
VOL. II. N to

i7g ENGLAND.
to Chefterfield, and is approached throtigli
fhady lanes, which conceal the view of it t
till you are on the confines of the park.
Three towers of hoary grey then rife with
great majefty among old woods, and their ,
fummits appear to be covered with tlie
lightly fhivered fragments of battlements,
which, however, are foon difcovered to be
perfectly carved open work, in which the
letters E. S. frequently occur under a coro
net, the initials, and the memorials of the
vanity, of Elizabeth, Gountefs ofiShrewf*
bury, who built the prefent edifice. Its tall
features, of a moft picturefque tint, were
finely difclofed between the luxuriant woods
and over the lawns of the park, which,
every now and then, let in a glimpfe ofthe'
Derbyfhire hills. The fcenery reminded us
ofthe exquifite defcriptions of Hare wood,
"The deep emboweringihades,thatyeil Elfrida ;"
and

ENGLAND. 179
and thofe of Hardwick once veiled a form
as lovely as the ideal graces of the Poet,
and confpired to a fate more tragical than*
that, which Harewood witneffedi
In front of the great gates of the caftle
court, the ground, adorned by old oaks,
fuddenly finks to a darkly fhadowed glade, •
and the View opens over the vale Of Scarf-
dale, bounded by the wild mountains of
*
the Peak. Immediately to the left of the
prefent refidence, fome ruined features of
the antient one, en wreathed with the rich
drapery of ivy, give an intereft to the fcene,
which the later, but more hiftorical ftruc-
ture heightens and prolongs. We followed,
not without emotion, the walk, which
Mary had fo often trodden, to the folding
doors of the great hall, whofe lofty gran
deur, aided by file.nce and feen under the
influence of a lowering fky, fuited the tem
per of the whole fcene. The tall windows,
N 2 which

i 8o .ENGLAN D.
which half fubdue the light they admit,
juft allowed us to diftinguifh the large
figures in the tapeftry, above the oak wainf-
coting, and fhewed a colonnade of oak fup
porting a gallery along the bottom of the
hall, with a pair of gigantic elk's horns
flourifhing between the windows oppofite
to the entrance. The fcene of Mary's ar
rival and her feelings upon entering this
folemn fhade came involuntarily to the
mind ; the noife of horfes' feet and many
voices from the court ; her proud yet gen-
ffle and melancholy look, as, led by my
Lord Keeper, fhe paffed flowly up the hall ;
his fomewhat obfequious, yet jealous and
vigilant air, while, awed by her dignity and
beauty, he remembers the terrors of his
own Queen ; the filence and anxiety of her
maids, and the buftle of the furrounding
attendants. From the hall a flair-cafe afcends to the
gallery

ENGLAND. i8j
gallery of a fmall chapel, in which the
chairs and cufhions, ufed by Mary, ftill
remain, and proceeds to the firft ftory,
where only one apartment bears memoriafs
of her imprifonment, the bed, tapeftry and
chairs having been worked by herfelf. This
tapeftry -is richly emboffed with emblematic
figures, each with its title worked above it,
and, having been fcrupuloufly preferved, is
ftill entire and frefh.
Over the chimney of an adjoining'
dining-room, to which, as well as'to other
apartments on this^floor, fome modern fur
niture has been added, is this motto carved
in oak :
" There is only this : To fear God and keep
his Commandments,"
So much lefs valuable was timber than
workmanfhip, when this manfion was con-
ftru£ted, that, where the flair- cafes are not
^3 of

18a ENGLAND.
of ftone, they are formed of folid oaken
fteps, inftead of planks ; fuch is that from
the fecond, or ftate ftory to the roof,
whence, on clear days, York and Lincoln
Cathedrals are faid to be included in the
extenfive profpect. This fecond floor is
that, which gives its chief intereft to the
edifice. Nearly all the apartments of it
Were allotted to Mary; fome of them for
ftate purpofes ; and the furniture is known
by other proofs, than its appearance, to re
main as fhe left it. The chief room, or
that of audience, is of uncommon loftinefs,
and ftrikes by its grandeur, before the ve^
neration and tendernefs arife, which its an
tiquities, and the plainly told tale of the
fufferings they witneffed, excite.
The walls, which are covered to a con
fiderable heigbt with tapeftry, are painted
above with,, hiflorical groups. The chairs
are of black velvet, nearly concealed by a
raifed

ENGLAND. 183
raifed needlework of gold, filver and co
lours, that mingle . with furprifing richnefs,
and remain in frefh prefervation. The up
per end of the room is diftinguifhed by a
lofty canopy of the fame materials, and by
fteps which fupport two chairs ; fo that the
Earl and Countefs of Shrewfbury probably
enjoyed their own flatelinefs here, as well
as affifted in the ceremonies practifed before
Mary. A carpeted table, in front of the
canopy, was, perhaps, the defk of Com-
miffioners, or Secretaries, who here record
ed fome of the proceedings concerning her;
below which, the room breaks into a fpa-
cious recefs, where a few articles of furni
ture are depofited, not originally placed in
it ; a bed of ftate, ufed by Mary, the cur
tains of gold tiffue, but in fo tattered a. con*
dition, that its original texture can fcarcely
be perceived. This and the chairs, which
accompany it, are fuppofed to have been
much earlier than Mary's time,
N 4 A fhort

1 84 ENGLAND.
^ A fhort paffage leads from the flate
apartment to her own chamber, a fmall
room, overlooked from the paffage by a
window, which enabled her attendants to
know, fhat-fhe was contriving no means of
efcape through the others into the court,
The bed and chairs of this room are of
black velvet, embroidered by herfelf ; the.
toilet of gold tiffue ; all more, decayed than;
worn, and probably ufed only towards the
conclufion of her imprifonment here, when
fhe was removed from fome better, apart
ment, in which the antient bed, now in the
ftate-room, had been placed. The date
1599 is once or twice infcribed in this
chamber ; for no reafon, that could relate
to Mary, who was removed hence in 1584,
and fell, by the often-blooded hands of
Elizabeth, in 1587.
Thefe are the apartments, diftinguifhed
by having been the refidence, of fo unhappy
a perfonage. On the other fide of the
manfion,

ENGLAND. 185
manfion, a grand gallery occupies the length
pf the whole front, which is 165 feet, and
contains many portraits, now placed care-
lefsly ort chairs, or the floor'; amongft them
an head of Sir Thomas More, apparently
very fine ; heads of Henries the Fourth,
Seventh and Eighth ; a portrait of Lady
Jane Gray, meek arid fair, before a harp?
fichord, on which a pfalm-book is opened ;
at the bottom ofthe gallery, Elizabeth, flyly
proud and meanly violent ; and, at the top,
Mary, in black, taken a fhort time before
her death, her countenance muqh faded,
deeply marked by 'indignation and grief,
and reduced as if to the fpedre of herfelf,
frowning with fufpicion upon all who ap
proached it ; the black eyes looking out
fron\ their corners, thin lips, fomewhat
aquiline nofe and beautiful chin.
What remains of the more antient build-'
ing is a ruin, which, Handing nearly on.
the

186 ENGLAND.
the brink of the glade, is a fine object from
this. A few apartments, though approached
with difficulty through the fragments of
others, are ftill almoft entire, and the di-
menfions of that called the Giant's Cham
ber are remarkable for the beauty of their
proportion. From Hard wick to within a few miles of
Middleton, the beauty of the country de
clines, while the fublimity is not perfeded ;
but, from the north-weft browof Brampton
Moor, the vaft hills of Derbyfhire appear
inwild and ghaftly fucceffion. Middleton,
hewn out of the grey rocks, that impend over
it, and fcarcely diftinguifhable from them, is
worth notice for its very fmall and neat oda-
gon church, built partly by brief and partly
by a donation from the Duke of Devonfhire.
The valley, or rather chafm, at the entrance
pf which it flands, is called Middleton Dale,
and runs, for two miles, between. perpends cula$-

ENGLAND. 187
cular walls of rock, which have more the
appearance of having been torn afunder by
fome convulfive rent- of the earth, than any
we have elfewhere feen. The ftrata are
horizontal, and the edges of each are often
diftind and rounded ; one of the charac
teristics of granite. Three grey rocks, re-
fembling caftles, projed from thefe folid
walls, and, now and then, a lime-kiln,
round like a baftion, half involves in fmoke
a figure, who, ftanding on the fummit,
looks the Witch of the Dale, on an edge
of her cauldron, watching the workings of
incantation. The chafm opened, at length, to a hill,
whence wild moorifh mountains were feen
on all fides, fome entirely covered with
the dull purple of heath, others green, but
without enclofures, except fometimes a ftone
wall, and the dark fides of others marked
only by the blue fmoke of, weeds, driven
jn circles near the ground, Towards

188 ENGLAND.
Towards fun-fet, from a hill in Chefhire,
we had a vaft view over part of that county
and nearly all Lancashire, a fcene of fertile
plains and gentle heights, till fome broad
and towering mountains, at an immenfe
diftance, were but uncertainly diftinguifhed
from the clouds. Soon after, the cheerful
populoufnefs of the rich towns and villages
in Lancafhire fupplied objeds for attention
of a different -charader ; Stockport firft,
crowded with buildings and people, as
much fo as fome of the bufieft quarters in
London, with large blazing fires in every
houfe, by the light of which women were
frequently fpinning, and manufacturers iffu-
ing from their workfhops and filling the
fleep ftreets, which the chaife rolled down
with dangerous rapidity ; then an almoft
continued ftreet of villages to Manchefter,
fome miles before which the road was bufy
with paffengers and carriages, as well as
bordered by hand fome country houfes; and,
finally

ENGLAND. 189
finally for this day, Manchefter itfelf; a
fecond London ; enormous to thofe, who
have not feen the firft, almoft tumultuous
with bufinefs, and yet well proved to afford
the neceffary peacefulnefs to fcience, letters
and tafte. And not only for itfelf may
Manchefter be an objed of admiration, but
for the contrail of its ufeful profits to the
wealth of a neighbouring place, immerfed
in the dreadful guilt of the Slave Trade,
with the continuance of which to believe
national prosperity compatible, is to hope,
that the adions of nations pafs unfeen be
fore the Almighty, or to fuppofe extenua
tion of crimes by increafe of criminality,
and that the eternal laws of right and
truth, which finite the wickednefs of indi
viduals, are too weak to ftruggle with the
accumulated and comprehenfive guilt of a
national participation in robbery, cruelty
and murder. From

t9o ENGLAND.
From Manchefter to Lancafter the road
leads through a pleafant and populous coun
try, which rifes gradually as it approaches
the huge hills we had noticed in the dif
tance from the brow of Chefhire, and whofe
attitudes now refembled thofe of the Rhein
gau as feen from Mentz. From fome moors
on this fide of Lancafter the profpeds open
very extenfively over a rich trad fading
into blue ridges ; while, on the left, long
lines of diftant fea appear, every now and
then, over the dark woods of the fhore,
with veffels failing as if on their fummits.
But the view from a hill defcending to.
Lancafter is pre-eminent for grandeur, and
comprehends an extent of fea and land, and
a union of the fublime in both, which we
have never feen equalled. In the green vale
ofthe Lune below lies the town, fpreading
up the fide of a round hill overtopped by
the old towers of the caftle and the church.
Beyond,

ENGLAND. 191
Beyond, over a ridge of gentle heights,
which bind the weft fide of the vale, the
noble inlet of the fea, that flows upon the
Ulverfton and Lancafter fands, is feen at
the feet of an amphitheatre formed by near
ly all the mountains of the Lakes ; an ex
hibition of alpine grandeur, both in form
and colouring, which, with the extent of
water below, compofe a fcenery perhaps
faintly rivalling that ofthe Lake of Geneva.
To the fouth and weft, the Irifh Channel
finifhes the view.
The antient town and caftle of Lancafter
have been fo often and fo well defcribed,
that little remains to be faid of them. To
the latter confiderable additions are build
ing in the Gothic ftyle, which, when time
fhall have fhaded the ftone, will harmonize
well with the venerable towers and gate-
houfe of the old ftrudure. From a turret
rifing over the leads of, the caftle, called John

tgi ENGLAND*
John o' Gaunt's Chair, the profped is ftill
finer than from the terrace of the church
yard below. Overlooking the Lune and its
green flopes, the eye ranges to the bay of
the fea beyond, and to the Cumberland and
Lancafhire mountains. On an ifland near
the extremity of the peninfula of Low Fur-
nefs, the double point of Peel Caftle flarts
up from the fea, but is fo diftant that it re
fembles a forked rock. This peninfula,
which feparates the bay of Ulverfton from
the Irifh Channel, fwells gradually into a
pointed mountain called Blackcomb, thirty
miles from Lapcafter, the firft in the am
phitheatre, that binds the bay. Hence a
range of lower, but more broken and fork
ed fummits, extends northward to the fells
of High Furnefs, rolled behind each other,
huge, towering and dark ; then, higher ftill,
Langdale Pikes, with a confufion of other
fells, that crown- the head of Windermere and

ENGLAND. 193
and retire towards Kefwick, whofe gigantic
mountains, Helvelyn and Saddleback, are,
however, funk in diftance below the hori
zon of the nearer ones. The top of Skid-
daw may be difcerned when the air is clear,
but it is too far off to appear with dignity.
From Windermere-Fells the heights foften
towards the Vale of Lonfdale, on the eaft
fide of which Ingleborough, a mountain in
Craven, rears his rugged front, the loftieft
and moft majeftic in the fcene. The nearer
country, from this point of the landfcape,
is interfeded with cultivated hills, between.
which the Lune winds its bright but fhal-
low ftream, falling over a weir and paffing
Under a very handfome ftone bridge at the
entrance ofthe town, in its progrefs towards
the fea. A ridge of rocky eminences fhelters
Lancafter on the eaft, whence they decline
into the low and uninterefting country, that
ftretches to the Channel.
-" vol. 11. O The

*q4 ENGLAND.
The appearance of the northern Fells is1
ever changing with the weather and fhift-
ing lights. Sometimes they refemble thofe
evening clouds on the horizon, that catch
the laft gleams of the fun ; at others, wrapt
in dark mift, they are only faintly traced,
and feem like ftormy vapours riling from
the fea. But in a bright day their ap
pearance is beautiful ; then, their grand
outlines are diftindiy drawn upon the fky^
a vifion of Alps ; the rugged fides are faint
ly marked with light and fhadow, with
wood and rock, and here and there a clufter
of white cottages, or farms and hamletsr
gleam at their feet along the water's edge.
Over the whole landfcape is then drawn a
foftening azure, or fometimes a purple hue,
exquifitely lovely, while the fea below re-
leds a brighter tint of blue*

FROM

ENGLAND. i95»

FROM LANCASTER TO KENDAL.

Leaving Lancafter, we wound along
the fbuthern brow of the vale ofthe Lune,
which there ferpenti2es among meadows,
and iS fOOn after fhut up between fteep
fhrubby banks. From the heights we had
fome fine retrofpeds of Lancafter and the
diflant fea $ but, about three miles from the
town, the hills open forward to a view as
much diftinguifhed by the notice of Mr.
Gray, as by its own charms. We here
looked down over a woody and finely
broken fore-ground upon the Lune and the
vale of Lonfdale, undulating in richly cul
tivated flopes, with Ingleborough, for the
back-ground, bearing its bold promontory
on high, the very crown and jWagon of
O 2 the

%96 ENGLAND.
the landfcape. To the weft, the vale winds
from fight among fmoother hills ; and the
gracefully falling line ofa mountain, on the
left, forms, with the wooded heights, on
the right, a kind of frame for the diftant
pidure. The road now turned into the fweetly
retired vale of Caton, and by the village
church-yard, in which there is not a fingle
graveftone, to Hornby, a fmall ftraggling
town, delightfully feated near the entrance
of the vale of Lonfdale. Its thin toppling
caftle is feen among wood, at a confiderable
diftance, with a dark hill rifing over it.
What remains of the old edifice is a fquare
grey building, with a flender watch-tower,
rifing in one corner, like a feather in a hat,
which joins the modern manfion of white
ftone, and gives it a fingular appearance, by
feeming to flart from the centre of its roof.
In front, a fteep lawn defcends betweenavenues

ENGLAND. 197
avenues of old wood, and the park extends
along the fkirts of the craggy hill, that
towers above. At its foot, is a good ftone
bridge over the Wenning, now fhrunk in
its pebbly bed, and, further on, near the
caftle, the church, fhewing a handfome
odagonal tower, crowned with battlements.
The road then becomes extremely intereft
ing, and, at Melting, a village on a brow
fome miles further, the view opens over the
whole vale of.Lonfdale. The eye now
paffes, beneath the arching foliage of fome
trees in the fore- ground, to the fweeping
valley, where meadows of the moft vivid
green and dark woods, with white cottages
and villages peeping from among them,
mingle with furprifing richnefs, and undu
late from either bank of the Lune to the
feet of hills. Ingleborough, rifing from ele
gantly fwelling ground, overlooked this en
chanting vale, on the right, clouds rolling
O 3 - along

198 ENGLAND.
along its broken top, like fmoke from a
cauldron, and its hoary tint forming a
boundary to the foft verdure and rich wpod-
lands of the flopes, at its feet. The per-
fpedive was terminated by the tall peeping
heads of the Weftmoreland fells, the nearer
ones tinged with fainteft purple, the more
diftant with light azure; and this is the
general boundary to a fcene, in the midft of
which, endlofed between nearer and lower
hills, lies the vale of Lonfdale, of a charac
ter mild, delicate and repofing, like the
countenance of a Madopa.
Defcending Melling brow, and winding
among the perpetually-changing fcenery of
the valley, we approached Ingleborough ;
and it was interefting to obferve the. lines
of its bolder features gradually ftrengthen
ing, and the fhadowy markings of its mi
nuter ones becoming more diftind, as we
advanced. Rock and grey crags looked out
frorn,

ENGLAND. 199
from the heath, on every fide ; but its form
on each was very different. Towards
Lonfdale, the mountain is bold and majef
tic, rifing in abrupt and broken" precipices,
and often impending, till, at the fummit, it
fuddenly becomes flat, and is level for near
ly a mile, whence it defcends, in a long
gradual ridge, to Craven in Yorkfhire. In
fummer, fome feftivities are annually cele
brated on this top, and the country people,
as they " drink' the frefhnefs of the moun
tain breeze *," look over the wild moor
lands of Yorkfhire, the rich vales of Lan-
cafhire, and to the fublime mountains of
Weftmoreland. Croffing a fmall bridge, we turned from
Ingleborough, and paffed very near the an
tient walls of Tliiriham Caftle, little of
which is now remaining. The ruin is on
a green broken knoll, one fide of which is
* Mrs. Barbauld.
0 4 darkened

soo ENGLAND.
darkened with brufh-wood and dwarf-oak.
Cattle were repofing in the fhade, on the
bank ofa rivulet, that rippled through what
was formerly the caftle ditch. A few old
trees waved over what was once a tower,
now covered with ivy.
Some miles further, we croffed the Leek,
a fhrunk and defolate ftream, nearly choked
with pebbles, winding in a deep rocky glen,
where trees and fhrubs marked the winter
boundary of the waters. Our road, mount
ing a green eminence of the oppofite bank,
on which flands Overborough, the hand
fome modern manfion of Mr. Fenwick,
wound between plantations and meadows,
painted with yellow and purple flowers,
like thofe of fpring. As we paffed through
their gentle flopes, we had, now and then,
fweet views ¦ between the foliage, on the
left, into the vale of Lonfdale, now con-
trading in its courfe, and winding into
ruder

ENGLAND. 201
ruder fcenery. 'Among thefe catches, the
beft pidure was, perhaps, where the white
town of Ksirby Lonfdale fhelves along the
oppofite bank, having rough heathy hills
Immediately above it, and, below, a venera
ble Gothic bridge over the Lune, rifing in
tall arches, like an antient aquedud; its
grey tint agreeing well with the filvery
lightnefs of the water and the green fhades,
that flourifhed from the fteep margin over
the abutments.
The view from this bridge, too, -was
beautiful. The river, foaming below among
maffes of dark rock, variegated with light
tints of grey, as if touched by the painter's
pencil, withdrew towards the fouth in a
ftraight channel, with the woods of Over-
borough on the left. The vale, dilating,
opened a long perfpedive to Ingleborough
and many blue mountains more diftant, with

202 ENGLAND.
with all the little villages we had paffed,
glittering on the intervening eminences.
The colouring of fome low hills, on the
right, was particularly beautiful, long fhades
of wood being overtopped with brown
heath, while, below, meadows of foft ver
dure fell gently towards the river bank.
Kirby Lonfdale, a neat little tovVn, com
manding the whole vale, is on the weftern
fteep. We ftaid two hours at it, gratified
by witneffing, at the firft inn we reached,
the abundance of the country and the
goodwill of the people. In times, when
the prices of neceffary articles are increafing
with the tafle for all unneceffary difplay,
inftances of cheapnefs may be to perfons pf
fmall incomes fomething more than mere
phyfical treafures ; they have a moral value
In contributing to independence of mind.
Here we had an early and, as it after
wards.

ENGLAND. 203
wards appeared, a very exaggerated fpeci-
men of the dialed of the country. A wo
man talked, for five minutes, againft our
window, of whofe converfation we could
underftand fcarcely a word. Soon after, a
boy replied to a queftion, " I do>na ken"
and "gang" was prefently the common
word forgo ; fymptoms of nearnefs to a
country, which we did not approach, with
out delighting to enumerate the inftances of
genius and worth, that adorn it.
Leaving Kirby Lonfdale by the Kendal
road, we mounted a fteep hill, and, looking
back from its fummit upon the whole vale
pf Lonfdale, perceived ourfelves to be in the
mid-way between beauty and defolation, fo
enchanting was the retrofped and fo wild
and dreary the profped. From the neigh
bourhood of Caton to Kirby the ride was
fuperior, for elegant beauty, to any we had
paffed j

204 ENGLAND.
paffed ; this from Kirby to Kendal is of a
charader diftindly oppofite. After lofing
fight of the vale, the road lies, for nearly
the whole diftance, over moors and per
petually fucceeding hills, thinly covered
with dark purple heath flowers, of which
the moft diftant feemed black. The dreari-
nefs of the fcene was increafed by a heavy
rain and by the flownefs of our progrefs,
joftling amongft coal carts, for ten miles of
rugged ground. The views over the Wefl-
moreland mountains were, however, not
entirely obfcured ; their vaft ridges were
yifible in the horizon to the north and
weft, line over line, frequently in five or
fix ranges. Sometimes the interfeding
mountains opened to others beyond, that
fell in deep and abrupt precipices, their pro
files drawing towards a point below and
feeming to fink in a bottomlefs abyfs. Oa

ENGLAND. 205
On our way over thefe wilds, parts of
which are called Endmoor and Cowbrows,
we overtook only long trains of coal carts,
and, after ten miles of bleak mountain road,
began to defire a temporary home, fome
what fooner than we perceived Kendal,
white-fmoking in the dark vale. As we
approached, the outlines of its ruinous caftle
were juft diftinguifhable through the gloom,
fcattered in maffes over the top of a fmall
round hill, on the right. At the entrance
of the town, the river Kent dafhed in foam
down a weir ; beyond it, on a green flope,
the gothic tower of the church was half
hid by a clufter of dark trees ; gray fells
glimmered in the diftance,
We were lodged at another excellent
inn, and, the next morning, walked over
the town, which has an air of trade min
gled with that of antiquity. Its hiftory has
been

so6. ENGLAND,
been given in other places, and we afe riot
able to difcufs the doubt, whether it was
the Roman Brocanonacio, or not. The ma*
nufadure of cloth, which our ftatute books
teftify to have exifted as early as the reign
in which Faljlaff is made to allude to it,
appears to be ftill in vigour, for the town is
furrounded, towards the river, with dyeing*
grounds. We faw, however, no fhades of
*' Kendal green," or, indeed, any but bright
fcarlet. The church is remarkable for three
chapels, memorials of the antient dignity of
three neighbouring families, the Belling-
hams, Stricklands and Parrs* Thefe are en-
clofures, on each fide of the altar, differing
from pews chiefly in being large enough to
contain tombs. Mr. Gray noticed' them
minutely in the year 1769. They were
then probably entire ; but the wainfcot or
railing,

ENGLAND. 207.
railing, which divided the chapel of the
Parrs from the aifle, is now gone. Of
two ftone tombs in it one is enclofed with
modem' railing, and there are many rem
nants of painted arms on the adjoining
windows. The chapel of the Stricklands,
Which is between this and the altar, is fepa
rated from the church aifle by a folid wain-
fcot, to the height of four feet, and after
that by a wooden railing with broken filla-
gree ornaments. That of the Bellinghams
contains an antient tomb, of which the
brafs plates, that bore infcriptions and arms,
are now gone, but fome traces of the latter
remain in plaiftered ftone at the fide. Over
It, are the fragments of an helmet, and, in
the roof, thofe of armorial bearings, carved
in wood. On a pillar, near this, is an
infcription, almoft obliterated, in which the
following words may yet be traced :
-,$11. " Dam<J

aoS ENGLAND.
" Dame Thomafim Thornburgh
Wiffe of Sir William Thornburgh Knyght
Daughter of Sir Robert Bellingham
Gentle Knyght : the ellventhe of Auguft
On thoufand fyue hundreth eightie too."
The Saxon has been fo ftrongly engrafted
on our language, that, in reading old in-
fcriptions, efpecially thofe, which are likely
to have been fpelt, according to the pronun
ciation, one is frequently reminded by an
tient Englifh words of the modern German
fynonyms. A German of the prefent day
would fay for eleven, eilf, pronounced long
like eilve, and for five, funf, pronounced
like fuynf.
Over the chief feat in the old pew of
the Bellinghams is a brafs plate, engraved
with the figure of a man in armour, and,
on each fide of it, a brafs efcutcheon, of
which that on the right has a motto thus
7 * fpelled,

ENGLAND; 209
felled, Ains. y Veftl Under the figure is
the following infcription, alfo cut in brafs :
Heer lyeth the bodye of Alan Bellingham efquier
who maryed Gatheryan daughter of Anthonye
Ducket efquier by whom he had no children
after, whofe deceafe he maryed Dorothie daughter -
of Thomas Sanford efquier of whom he had — — *
fonnes & eight daughters, of which five fonhes & J
daughters with the faid Dorothie ar yeat lyvirig, he
was threefcore and, one yares of age & dyed ye 7 of Maye
A» dni 1577.
The corrednefs of inferting the unpro-
nounced confonants in the words Eight and
Daughters, notwithftanding the varieties of
the other orthography in this infcription,
is a- proof of the univerfality of the Saxon
mode of fpelling, with great abundance and
even wafte of letters ;. a mode, which is fo
incorporated with our language, that thofe,
who are for difpenfing with it in fome
inftances, as in the final k in "publick" and
vol. 11. P other

2i0 ENGLAND*.
other words, fhould confider what a 'general-
change they have to effed, or what partial
incongruities they muft fubmit to.
Kendal is built on the lower fteeps of a
hill, that towers over the principal ftreet,.
and bears on one of its brows a teftimony
to the independence of the, inhabitants, an.
obelifk dedicated to liberty and. to the memo
ry of the Revolution in 1 688. At a time,
when the memory of that revolution is
reviled, and the praifes of liberty itfelf en
deavoured to be fuppreffed by the artifice of
imputing to it the crimes of anarchy, it
was impoffible to omit any ad of venera
tion to the bleffings of this event. Being
thus led to afcend the hill, we had a view
of the country, over which it prefides; a
fcene fimple, great and free as the fpirit re
vered amidft it.

FROM

ENGLAND. an

FROM KENDAL TO BAMPTtiN AND HAWSWATER.
1 Of two roads from Kendal to
Bampton one is through Long Sleddate,
the Other over Shapfell, the king of the
Weftmoreland mountains ; of which routes
the laft is the moft interefting for fimple
fublimity, leading through the heart of the
wildeft trads and opening to fuch vaft
highland fcenery as even Derbyfhire cannot
ffiew. We left Kendal by this road, and
from a very old, ruinous bridge had a full
view of the caftle, fteetching its dark walls
jand broken towers round the head of a
.green hill, to the fouthward ofthe town.
Thefe reliques are, however, too far fepa
rated by the decay of large maffes of the
original edifice, and contain little that is in
dividually pidurefque.
p 2 The

212 ENGLAND;
The road now lay through fhady lanei
and over undulating, but gradually amend
ing ground, from whence were pleafant
views of the valley, with now and then a
break in the hills, on the left, opening to a
glirnpfe of the diftant fells towards Winder
mere, gray and of more pointed form than
any we had yet feen ; for hitherto the
mountains, though of huge outline, were
not fo broken, or alpine in their fummits
as to ftrike the fancy with furprife. After
about three miles, a very fteep hill fhuts
up the vale to the North, and from a gray
rock, near the fummit, called Stone-cragg,
the profped opens over the vale of Kendal
with great dignity and beauty. Its form
from hence feems nearly circular ; the
hills fpread round it, and fweep with eafy
lines into the bottom, green nearly to their
fummits, where no fantaftic points bend
over it, though rock frequently mingles with

ENGLAND. ai$
with the heath. The caftle, or its low
green hill, looked well, nearly in the centre
of the landfcape, with Kendal and its moun
tain, on the right. Far to the fouth, were
the groves of Leven's park, almoft the only
wood in the fcene, and, over the heights
beyond, blue hills bounded the horizon.
On the weft, an opening in the near fteeps
difcovered clutters of huge and broken fells,
while other breaks, on the eaft, fhewed
Jong ridges ftretching towards the fouth,
Nearer us and to the northward, the hills
rofe dark and awful, crowding over and in-
terfeding each other in long and abrupt
Jines, heath and crag their only furniture.
The rough knolls around us and the
dark mountain above gave force to the ver
dant beauty and tranquillity of the vale
below, and feemed efpecially to fhelter from
jthe ftorms of the north fome white farms
and cottages, fcattered among enclofures jn
P 3 the

u

2i4 ENGLAND.
the hollows. Soon after reaching the fiim»
mit of the mountain itfelf
" A vale appear 'd belovy, a deep retir'd abode,''
and we looked down on the left into Long
Sleddale, a little fcene pf exquifite beauty,
furrounded with images of greatnefs.. This
narrow Vale, or glen, fhewed a level of the
brighteft verdure, with a few cottages fcat
tered among grpvCs, enclofed by dark fells,
that rofe fteeply, yet gracefully, arid, at
their fummits, bent forward in maffes of
fhattered rock. An hugely' pointed moun
tain, called Keintmoor-head, fhufs" up this
fweet fcene to the north, rifing in" a fudden
precipice from the vale, and heightening,
by barren and gloomy fteeps, the miniature
beauty, that glowed at its feet. Two
mountains, called " Whitefide and Potter's-
fell, fcreen the perfpedive ; Stone-crag is at
the fouthern end, fronting Keintmoor-head.
The

ENGLAND; 215
The vale, feen beyond the broken ground
we were upon, formed a landfcape of, per
haps, unexampled variety and grace of cor-
louring; the tender green of the lowland,
the darker verdure of the woods afcending
the mountains, the brown rough heath
above them, and the impending crags over
all, ^exhibit their numerous fhades, within a
fpace not more than two miles long, or half
a mile in breadth.
, From the right of our road another valley
extended, whofe charader is that of fimple
fublimity, unmixed with any tint of beauty,
The vaft, yet narrow perfpedive fweeps in
ridges of mountains, huge, barren and
'brown, point beyond point, the higheft of
which, Howgill-fell, gives its name to the
whole diftrid, in which not a wood, a vil
lage, pr a farm appeared to cheer the long
yifta. A fhepherd. boy told us the names
pf almoft all the heights within the hori-
P 4 zon,

216 ENGLAND.
zpn, and we are fprry not to have written
them, for the- names of mountains are fel-i
- - - ¦ : ¦ a x j *
dom comDOunded- of modern, or trivial de
nominations, and frequently are fomewhat
defcriptiye of their prototypes. He inform
ed us alfp, that we fhould go over eight
miles of Shap-fell, without feeing a houfe;
and foon after, at Haw's-foot, we tpok
leave of the laft on the road, entering then
a clofe valley, furrounded by ftupendous
mountains of heath and rock, more tower
ing and abrupt than thofe, that had ap,^
peared in moorlands on the other fide of
Kendal. A ftream, rolling jn its rocky
channel, and croffing the rpad under a
rude bridge, was all that, broke the folitary
filence, pr gave animation to the view, ex
cept the flocks, that hung upon the preci7
pices, and which, at that height, wer^
fcarcely diftinguifhable from the gray rpund
(tones, thickly* flatting from put the; heathj
- . ''A ".
fleeps,

ENGLAND.

217

fleeps. The Highlands of Scotland could
fcarcely have offered to Ossian more
images of fimple greatnefs, or more circum
stances for melancholy inspiration. Dark
glens and fells, the mbffy ftone, the lonely
blaft, defcending on the valley, the roar of
diftant torrents every where occurred ; and
to the bard the " fong of fpirits" would
have fwelled with thefe founds, and their.
fleeting forms have appeared in the clouds,
that frequently floated along the mountain
tops. The road, now afcending Shap-fell, alter*
nately climbed the fleeps and funk among
the hollows of this fovereign mountain,
which gives its name to all the furrounding
hills ; and, during an afcent of four miles,
We watched every form and attitude ofthe
features, which compofed. this vaft fcenery.
Sometimes we looked frpm a precipice into
deep tJ vallies, varied "only with fhades of
1 1| heath,

$1.8- ENGLAND.
heath, with the rude fummer hut of th$
fhepherd, or by ftreams accumulating into
torrents ; and, at others, caught long prp-
fpeds oyer high lands as huge and wild as
the nearer ones, which partially intercepted
them. Tfie flocks in this high region are fo fel?
dom difturbed by the fpotfteps pf man, that
they have not learned to fear him ; they
continued to graze within a few feet of the
carriage, or kooked quietly at it, feeming to
confider thefe mountains as their own.
Near the fummit of the road, though no|
pf the hill, a retrofpedive glance gave us a
long view over the fells, and pf a rich dif
tance towards Lancafter, rifing into blue
hills, which admitted glimpfes of fparkling
fea in the bay beyond. This gay perfpec-
tive, lighted up by a gleam of ftmfhine,
and viewed between the brown lines of
the nearer mountains, fhewed like the mi-
niature

ENGLAND. 319
mature painting of a landfcape, illuminated
beyond a darkened fore- ground.
At the point of every fteep, as we at
tended, the air feemed to become thinner,
and, at the northern fummit of Shap-fell,
which we reached after nearly two hours'
toil, the wind blew with piercing intenfe-
nefs, making it" difficult to remain as long
as was due to our admiration of the pro-
fped. The fcene of mountains, which burft
upon us, can be conjpared only to the
multitudinous waves of the fea. On the
northern, Weftern and eaftern fcope of the
horizon rofe vaft ridges of heights, their
broken lines fometimes appearing in feven
or eight fucceffive ranges, though fhewing
riothing either fantaftic or peaked in their
forms. The autumnal lights, gleaming on
their fides, or Shadows fweeping in dark
lines along them, produced a very .fublime
£ffed ; while fummits more .remote. -were often

220

ENGLAND.

often mifty with the ftreaming fhower, and
others glittered in the partial rays, or were
coloured with the mild azure of diftance.
The greater trad of the intervening hills
and Shap-fell itfelf were, at this time,
darkened with clouds, while Fancy, awed
by the gloom, imaged the genius of Weft-
moreland brooding over it and direding
the fcowling florm.
A defcent of nearly four miles brought
us to Shap, a ftragjding village* lying on
the fide of a bleak hill, feebly fheltered by
clumps of trees. Here, leaving the moor
lands, we were glad to find ourfelves again
where " bells have knolled to church," and
in the midft of civilized, though fimple life.
After a fhort reft, at a cleanly little inn, we
proceeded towards Bampton, a village five
miles further in a vale, to which it gives its
pame, and one mile from Hawfwater, the
Jake, that invited us to it. As . the road
advanced^

ENGLAND. 221
advanced, the fells of this lake fronted it,
and, clofing over the fouthern end of Barnp-
ton vale, were the moft interefting objeds
in 'the view. They were of a charader
very different from any yet feen ; tall, rocky,
and of more broken and pointed form.
Among them was the high blue peak, called
Kidftow-pike ; the broader ridge of Wallow-
crag ; a round and ftill loftier mountain —
Ickolm-moor, beyond, and, further yet, other
ranges of peaked fummits, that overlook
Ullfwater. In a hollow on the left of the road, called
the Vale of Magdalene, are the ruins of
Shap-abbey, built in the reign of John, of
which little now appears except a tower
with pointed windows. The fituation is
deeply fecluded, and the gloom of the fur
rounding mountains may have accorded
well with monaftii melancholy.
¦ Proceeding towards Bampton we had a
momentary

222 ENGLAND*.
momentary peep into Hawfwater, funis
deep among black and ^haggard; rocks, and
over-topped by the towering fells before
named, whofe fummits were involved iri
tempeft, till the fun, fuddenly breaking
out from under clouds,, threw a watery
gleam aflant the broken top of Kidftow-
pike ; aiid his rays, ftrugglirtg with the
fhower, produced a fine effed of light, op-
pofed to the gloom, that wrapt lekolm-moor
and other huge mountains.
We foon after looked down from the
heights of BamptoU UpOn its open vale^
checquered witfi corn and meadows, among
which the flender Lowther wound its way
from Hawfwater to the vale of Eden,
crofting that of Bampton to the north.
The hills, enriched here and there with
hanging woods and feats, were cultivated
nearly to their fummits, except where in
the fouth the rude heights of Hawfwater almoft

England. i±$
almoft excluded the lake and fhut up the
Valley. Immediately below us Bampton-r
grange lay along the fkirt of the hill, and
croffed the Lowther, a gray, rambling and
antient village, to which we defcended
among rough common, darkened by planta
tions of fir, and between corn enclofures.
The interruption, which enclofed waters
and pathlefs mountains give to the inter-
courfe and bufinefs of ordinary life, renders
the diftrid, that contains the lakes of Lan-
eafhire, Weftmoreland and Cumberland,
more thinly inhabited than is due to the
healthinefs of the climate and, perhaps, to
the richnefs of the vallies. The roads are
always difficult from their fteepnefs, . and
in winter are greatly obftruded by fnow.
That over Shap-fell to Kendal was, fome
years fince, entirely impaffable, till the in
habitants of a few fcattered towns fubfcribed
thirty pounds, and a way was cut wide
enough

224 ENGLAND.
enough for one horfe, but fo deep, that tri«
fnow was, on each fide, above the rider's
head. It is not in this age of communica
tion and intelligence, that any perfon will
be creduloufly eager to fuppofe the inhabi
tants of one part of the ifland confiderably
or generally diftinguifhed in their charaders
from thofe of another ; yet, perhaps, none
can immerge themfelves in this country of
the lakes, without being ftruck by the fu-
perior fimplicity and modefty of the people.,
Secluded from great towns and from ex
amples of felfifh fplendour, their minds
feem to ad freely in the fphere of their
own affairs, without interruption from envy
or triumph, as to thofe of others. They
are obliging, without fervility, and plain but
not rude, fo that, when, in accofting you,
they omit the cuftomary appellations, you
perceive it to be the familiarity of kindnefs,
not of difrefped. ; and they do not bend with

ENGLAND. 225
with nieannefs, or hypocrify, but fhew an
independent well meaning, without obtru-
fivenefs and without the hope of more than
Ordinary gain.
Their views of profit from ftrangers are,
indeed, more limited than we could have
believed, before witneffing it* The fervants
at the little inns cPnfefs themfelves, by their
manner of receiving what you give, to be
almoft as much furprifed as pleated. A
boy, who had opened four or five gates for
us between Shap and Bampton, blufhed
when we called to him to have fome half
pence ; and it frequently happened, that
perfons, who had looked at the harnefs, or
rendered fome little fervices of that fort on
the road, paffed on, before any thing could
be offered therm The confufion of others,
on being paid, induced us to fuppofe, at
firft, that enough had not been given ; but
we were foon informed, that nothing was
Vi
expeded. vol. ii. <^ The

226 ENGLAND.
The inns, as here at Bampton, are iff eV
quently^ humble ; and thofe, ( who are ;4.ij&
pofed .tp clamour for luxuries, asif^therf
was • a crime in not being able , tp fupply
them, may confound a fimple people, ^nd
be, ^themfelves greatly difcontented, before
th$jVjgo. But thofe, who will ^bfii.fgtisfjgd;
with comforts, and think the ; experience; of
integrity, careful nefs and goodwill's itfelf* a
luxury, will be glad, to have, flopped at
Bampton and at feveral other little 'villages,',
where there is fome fort of , preparation for
travellers. ,....,
Nor is this decluded fpot without provi-
fion for the mind. A beneficed 'grammar
fchppf receives the children of the inhabi
tants, and fends, we believe, fome to an
Univerfity. Bifhop Gibson receiyedi.hlf
education at it. Bifhop Law, wha^wa^j
born at Bampton, went pi daily acrofs' oney-
pr two of the rudeft fells on-, the^ lak.ef jpr
another fchool, at Martindale; an exercife of

ENGLAND* 227
©f^hP -trifling fatigue, or refolution } Ifor
amoiig^ the things to be gained by feeing
the lakes is a conception ofthe extreme
wtldhefs1 of their boundaries. You arrive
with a 'notion, that you can and dare rove
ahy J'where amongft the mountains j arid
have only to fee three to have the utmoft
terror of lofing your Way.
The danger of wandering in thefe re
gions without a guide is increafed by an
uncertainty, as to the titles of heights ; for
the people of each village have a name for
the part pf a mountain neareft to themfelves,
and they fometimes call the whole by that
name. The circumference of fuch heights
is alfo too vaft, and the flexures too nume
rous to admit of great accuracy. Skiddaw,
Saddleback and Helvellyn, may, however,'
be certainly diftinguifhed. There are others,
a paffage' over which would fave, perhaps,
eight ^or ten miles out of twenty, but which
Q_2 are

228 ENGLAND.
are fo little known, except to the fhepherd%
that they are very ; rarely croffed by travel-
lers. We could not truft to any perfon's
knowledge of Harter-fell, beyond the head
pf Hawfwater.

HAWS WATER.
This is a lake, of which little has*
been mentioned, perhaps becaufe it is infe
rior in fize to the others, but which is-
diftinguifhed by the folemn grandeur of its
rocks and mountains, that rife in very bold
and awful charaders. The water, about
three miles long, and at the wideft only
half a mile over, nearly defcribes the figure
8, being narrowed in the centre" by the
projeding fhores;" and," at this fpot, it is
laid to be fifty fathom deep.4 *

Croffing

ENGLAND. 229
.Crofting t^e meadows of Bampton vale
aqjd£a,fci2,ndj.ng the oppofite heights, we ap
proached the fells, of Hawfwater, and, hav-
ing proceeded for a mile akmg the^ fide of
hills, the views over the vale arid of. ( the
fouthern mountains changing with almoft
every ftep, the lake began to open between
a very lofty ridge, covered with foreft, and
abrupt fells of heath, or naked rock. Soon
after, we looked upon the firft expanfe of
the lake, .Its eaftern fhore, rifing in a tre-
jmendpus ridge of rocks, darkened with
wood to the fummit, appears to terminate
jui Wallow-crag, a prompntory of towering
height, beyond which the lake winds from
view. The finely broken mountains on the
weft are covered with heath, and the tops
.impqnd. in crags ?and precipices; but their
afcent from the water is lefs fudden than
that pf the oppofite rocks, and they are
fkirted by a narrow margin of vivid green,
Q.3 where

23© HOLLAND
where cattle were feeding, antMJuKed fhrubs
and little groves overhung the lake arid,
were refeded on its dark furface. f Above,
a very few white cottages among wood
broke in upon the folitude ; higher ftill, the
mountain- flocks were browfing, and above
"all, the harrow « perfpedive « was doted by
dark arid monftrous fummits. if ql \fti fsup3*ii
*v:> As we wound along the bank, the rocks
unfolded and difclofed the fecond expanfe,
with fcenery yet more towering and fub
lime than the firft. This perfpedive feemed
to ?be terminated by the huge mountain
called * Caftle- ftreet ; but, as^we advanced,
Harter-fell reared his awful front, impend
ing over the water, and fliut in* the fcene,
where, ramidft rocks, and at the entrance pf
a glen almoft choked by fragments ffoih,
the heights, ftands the -Chapel 'of Martin*
dale/fpoken by the country people Mardale.
"A?.nong the fells of this dark' prpfped are
Lathale^

ENGLAND. 231
f^thile, Wilter-crag, Caftle-crag and Rig-
jgindatle', their bold lines appearing beyond
^each:1 other as they fell into the upper part
of the lake, and fome of them fhewing only
mafjBs of fhattered rock. iKidftow-pike is
pre-eminent among the crowding fummits
beyond the eaftern fhore, and the clouds
frequently fpread their gloom over its point,
or fall in fhowers into the cup within ; on
the weft tHigh- ftreet, which overlooks the
head of Ullfwater, is the moft dignified of
Ithe mountains.
: Leaving the green margin of the lake,
WC afeended to the Parfpnage, a low, white
-building on a knoll, fheltered by the moun-
,tain and a grove of fycamores, with a fmall
Igarden in front, falling towards the water.
ifepmythe door we had a view of the whole
Jake and the , furrounding fells, which the
,SW^e fe were upon \was juft raifed
«£nough tp fhew -to advantage. Nearly op-
0^4 pofite

2^.2 E-N,GLA:NT>.
pofite tpjt the bold prpmontoryof Wa||pw-
crag pufhed, its, bate into fhe lake,-,}ivh^re a
peninfula advanced to meet it, fpread with
bright verdure, • on which ; the hamlet of
Martindaje Jay half concealed, amongi a
grove of, oak, , beech and fycamore, , whofe
tints c.ontrafted| with the darker ope -| ofthe
fpiry fpriice, or, more flumped Englifh fir,
and accorded fweetiy with the paftoral green,
beneath. The ridge of precipices, that
fwept from WallOw-crag fouthward, and
formed a bay for the upper part of the lake,
was defpoiled of its fipreft ; but , that, which
curved northward, was,; dark, with dwarf*
wood,, .to the , water's i brim, and, opening
diftantly to Bampton vale, let in a gay mi
niature landfcape, bright in funfhine, ,,Be-
low, the lake rpfleded. the gloom of the
¦woods, and was fometimes marked with
long white lines, which, we were told, in-
dicated bad weather; but, except, wien,, a
fudden

EiNGT/A-ND':' ^
ftidden guft fwept the furface^lt gave* back
«vdry image "on the fhOre, as in a dark
mirror. The interior of the "Parfonkge' was as
comfortable as the fituation was interefting.
A neat parlour opened -from the paffage,
but -it Was newly painted, and we were
fhewn into the family room, having a large
pld-fafhioned chimney cornef, with benches
to receive a foeial party, and forming a moft
^enviable retreat from the ftorms of the
mountains. Here, in the winter evening,
a family circle, gathering round a blazing
pile of wood ori the hearth, might defy the
weather and the world. It was delightful
to pidure fuch a party, happy in their
"Home, in the fweet affedions of kindred and
iri honeft independence, converting, work
ing and reading occafionally, while the blaft
was ftrugglirig againft the cafement and the
¦• fnow pelting" on the4 ropf. The

£34 EN-GLA.N-DI
Mi The feat of a long window, >oyerio©kiBg|
the lake, offered the delights of other fea?
fons ; hence the luxuriance of fummer and
th,e colouring of autumn fuce.effiveiy fpread
their enchantments over the oppofite woods,
and the meadows that margined the water
below; and a little garden of fweets fent up
its fragrance to that of the ^honeyfuckles',
that twined round the window. Here, too, .
lay a flore of books, and, to inftance that
an inhabitant of this remote nook could not
exclude an intereft concerning the diftant
world, among them was a hiftory of paffing
events. Alas ! to what fcenes, tp what dif-
play of human paffions and human fuffering
did it open ! flow oppofite to the fimpli-
city, the innocence and the peace of thefe !
The venerable father of the manfion was,
engaged in his duty at his> chapel of Mar-
tindale, but we were hofpitably received
within, and heard the next day how, gladly
v?dt he

ENGLAND. 235
fee would have rendered any civilities to
ftrangers,
on On leaving this enviable little refidence,
we purfued the fteeps of the mountain be
hind it, and were foon amidft the flocks
and the crags, whence the Topk-dpwn uppp.
the lake and among the* fells was fplemn
and furprifing. djAbout a quarter of a. mije
from the Parfpnage, a torrent of fome dig
nity rufhed paft us, foaming down a rocky
phafin in its way to the lake. Every where,
little ftreamsi of cryftal clearnefs wandered
filently among the mofs and turf, r which
half concealed their progrefs, or dafhed
pver 1 the rocks ; and, acrofsathe largeft,
«fheep-bridges of flat ftone were thrown, to
prevent the flocks from being carried away
Jn attempting to pafs them in winter. ".The
gray ftones, that grew among the heath,
were fpotted with moffes of fo fine a tex
ture, that it was difficult to afeertain whether they

t3& EN#L^A;ND.
they were vegetable ; thejrhtinjs, were a de*
licate pea-green and primrofe, with a variety
of colours, which it was not neceffary tp
be a botanift to admire.
An hour, paffed in: afcending, brought^us
to the brow of Bampton vale, which floped
gently downward to the north, where it
opened to lines of diftant mountains,, that
extended far into the eaft. The woods of
Lowther-park capped two remote: hills,, and
fpread luxuriantly down their fides into the
valley ; and nearer, Bampton- grange ,« lay
at the bafe of a mountain, crowned with fir
plantations, over which, in a diftant. vale,
we difcovered the village of Shap and long
ridges of the highland, paffed on the pre
ceding day, i ,, ,.,,
One of the fells we had juft.croffed is
called Blanarafa, jat the fummit pf which
two gray ftones, each about four feet high,
and place*} upright, atthe diftance. ,pf nine

ENGL'AND. 237
feet from each other, remain of four, which
are remembered to have been formerly-
there; E The place is ftill called Four Stones ;
but tradition does not relate the defign of
the monument ; whether tp limit adjoining
ciftrids, or to commemorate a battle, or a
hero.'rjV -ob \. *i3g
We defcended gradually into the vale,
among thickets of rough oaks, on the bank
of a rivulet, which foamed in a deep chan
nel beneath their foliage, and came to a
glade fo fequeftered and gloomily overfha-
dowed, that one almoft expeded to fee the
venerable arch of a ruin, peeping between
*ne branches. It was the very fpot;' which
the1 founder of a monafiery might have
chofen for his retirement, where the chant-
ih§s';ofa choir might-nave mingled with
the Toothing murmur of the ftream, and
monks have glided' beneath the folerrin frees
iri'fga¥ments fcarcely' diftinguifhable from
the fhades themfelves. This

238 ENGLAND;
This glade, • Hoping fromJbhe eye^ operi&fi
under fpreading oaks to a remote glimpfe
of the vale, with blue hills in the diftande;
arid on the graffy hillocks of the fore
ground cattle were every where repofing. \-
- s We returned, about funfet, to Bampton,
after a walk of little more than four miles*
which had exhibited a great variety of
fcenery, beautiful, romantic and fublime.
At the entrance ofthe village, the1 Lowther
and a namelefs rivulet, that runs from
Hawfwater, join their waters ; both ftreams
Were now funk in their beds ; but in win
ter they fometimes contend for the coriqueft
and ravage ofthe neighbouring plains. The
waters have then rifentb the height df five
Pr fix-- feet in a meadow forty yards from
their fu.rnmer channels. In an ericlofure of
this vale'was f6ught the "iaft' battle, Pr fkir-
mifh, with the Scots in Weftrilorelarid1; arid
it' is within'the telling of theTons1 of %rekt-^
grandfathers, that the conteft continued, till
the

.ENGLAND. 239
tiftet . Scots :were difcovered to fire only peb
bles .;i the villagers had then the folly to
cjofei with them and the fuccefs to drive
them away ; but fuch was the fimplicity of
the times, that it was called a vidory to
have made one, prifoner. Stories of this
fort are not yet entirely forgotten in the
deeply inclofed vales of Weftmoreland' and
Cumberland, where the greater part of the
prefent inhabitants can refer to an anceftry
of feveral centuries, on the fame fpot.
We thought Bampton, though a very
ill-tbuilt village, an enviable fpot ; having a
clergyman, as we heard, of exemplary
manners, and, as one of us witneffed, of a
moft faithful earneftnefs, in addreffing his
congregation, in the church ; being but
Hightly removed from ., one of the lakes,
that; accumulates in a /mall fpace many of
the varieties and, attradions ofthe others ;
and having -the .adjoining .lands, diftributed,

246 ENGLAND.
for the moft part, into fmall farms, fo that*
as it is not thought low to be without
wealth, the poor do not acquire the offen-
five and difreputable habits, by which they
are too often tempted to revenge, or refift
the oftentation of the rich.

ULLS-WATER.

I he ride from Bampton to Uflfr
water is very various and delightful. It
winds for about three miles along the
weftern heights of this green and open vale,
among embowered lanes, that alternately
admit and exclude the paftoral fcenes be
low, and the fine landfcapes on the oppofite
hills, formed by the plantations and antient
woods of Lowther-park. Thefe fpread over
a long

ENGLAND. 241
a long trad, and mingle in fweet variety
With the lively verdure of lawns and mea
dows, that flope into the valley, and fome
times appear in gleams among the dark
thickets. The houfe, of white ftone with
red window-cafes, embofomed among the
woods, has nothing in its appearance an-
fwerable to the furrounding grounds. Its
fituation and that of the park are exquifitely
happy, juft where the vale of Bampton
opens to that of Eden, and the long moun
tainous ridge and peak of Crofs-fell, afpiring
above them all, ftretch before the eye ; with
the town of Penrith fhelving along the fide
of a diftant mountain, and its beacon on the
fummit; the ruins of its caftle appearing
dlftindly at the fame time, crowning a low
round hill. The horizon to the north and
1
the *eaft is bounded by lines of mountains,
range above range, not romantic and fur-
prifing, but multitudinous and vaft. Of
vol, 11. R thefe*

242 ENGLAND.
thefe, Crofs-fell, faid / to be the higbefl
mountain in Cumberland, gives its name to
the whole northern ridge, which in its full
extent, from the neighbourhood of Gillf-
land to that of Kirkby-Steven, is near fifty
miles. This perfpedive of the extenfive
vale of Eden has grandeur and magnificence
in as high a degree as that of Bampton has
paftoral beauty, clofipg in the gloomy foli-
tudes of Hawfwater. The vale is finely
wooded, and variegated with manfions,
paries.) meadow-land, corn, towns, villages,
and all that make a diftant landfcape rich.
Among the peculiarities of it, are little
mountains of alpine fhape, that ftart up like
pyramids in the middle of the vale, fome
covered with wood, Others barren and rocky.
The fcene perhaps pnly wants a riyer like
the Rhine, or the Thames, to make it the
very fineft in England for union of gran
deur, beauty and extent. , Oppofite

ENGLAND; 243
Oppofite Lowther-hall, we gave a fare
well look to the pleafarit vale pf Bampton
and its fouthern fells, as the road, winding
more to the weft, led us over the high lands,
that feparate it from the vale of Emont.
Then, afcending through fhady lanes and
amorig fields where the oat harveft was
gathering, we had enchanting retrofpeds of
the vale of Eden, fpreading to the eaft, with
all its Chain of mountains chequered by the
autumnal fhadows.
Soon after, the road brought us to the
bfows of Emont, a' narrow well-Wooded
Vale, the river, from which it takes its
hame, meandering through it from Ullf-
water among paftures and pleafilre-grounds,
to, meet theLowther near Brougham Caftle.
Penrith and its caftle and beacon look up
the vale from the north, and the aftonifhing
fells of Ullfwater clofe upon it in the fouth;
while Delemain, the houfe and beautiful
R 2 grounds

244 ENGLAND.
grounds of Mr. Haffel, Hutton St. John, as-
venerable old manfton, and the fingle tower
called Dacre-cafWe adPrrf the valley. But
Who can paufe to admire the elegancies of
art, when furrounded by the wonders of
nature? The approach to this fublime lake
along the heights of Emont is exquifitely
interefting ; for the road, being fhrouded by
woods, allows the eye only partial glimpfes
of the gigantic fhapes, that are affembled
in the diftance, and, awakening high ex-
pedation, leaves the imagination, thus ele
vated, to paint the " forms of things un-
feen." Thus it was, when we caught a
firft view of the dark broken tops of the
fells, that rife round Ullfwater, of fize and
fhape moft huge, bold, and awful ; oveir-
fpread with a blue myfterious tint, that
feemed almoft fupernaturat, though accord
ing in gloom and fublirriity with the fevere
features it involved.* Further

ENGLAND. 245
Further on, the mountains began to un
fold themfelves ; their outlines, broken,
abrupt and interfeding each other in innu
merable diredions, feemed, nowr and then,
to fall back like a multitude at fome fu-
preme command, and permitted an oblique
glimpfe into the deep vales. A clofe lane
then defcended towards Pooly-bridge, where,
at length, the lake itfelf appeared beyond
the fpreading branches, and, foon after, the
firft reach expanded before us, with all its
mountains tumbled round it ; rocky, ruin
ous and vaft, impending, yet rifing in wild
confufion and multiplied points behind each
Other. This view of the firft reach from the foot
of Dunmallet, a pointed wopdy hill, near
Pooly-bridge, is one of the fineft on the
lake, which here fpreads in a noble fheet,
near three miles long, and almoft two
miles broad, to the bafe of Thwaithiff nab,
R 3 winding

246 ENGLAND.
winding round which it difappears, and the
whole is then believed to be feen. The
charader of this view is nearly that of fim-
pie grandeur ; the mountains, that impend
over the fhore in front, are peculiarly awful
in their forms and attitudes; on the left,
the fells foften ; woodlands, and their pas
tures, colour their lower declivities, and the
water is margined with the tendereft ver^
dure, oppofed to the dark woods and crags
above. On the right, a green conical hill
flopes to the fhore, where cattle were re-
pofing on the grafs, or tipping the clear
wave ; further, rife the bolder rocks of
Thwaithill-nab, where the lake difappears,
and, beyond, the dark precipices and fum
mits of fells, that crown the fecond reach.
Winding the foot of Dunmallet, the al
moft pyramidal hill, that fhuts up this end
of Ullfwater, and feparates it from the vale
of Emont, we crpffe,d BartOp bridge, where this

ENGLAND. 247
this little river, clear as cryftal, iffues from
the lake, and through a clofe pafs hurries
over a rocky channel to the vale. Its
woody fteeps, the tufted ifland, that inter
rupts its ftream, and the valley beyond,
form altogether a pidure in fine contraft
with the majefty of Ullfwater,' expanding
on the other fide of the bridge.
We followed the fkirts ofa fmooth green
hill, the lake, on the other hand, flowing
foftly againft the road and fhewing every
pebble on the beach beneath, and proceeded
towards the fecond bend ; but foon mount
ed from the fhore among the broken knolls
of Dacre-common, whence we had various
views of the firft reach, its fcenery appear
ing in darkened majefty as the autumnal
fhadows fwept over it. Sometimes, how
ever, the rays, falling in gleams upon the
water, gave it the fineft filvery tone ima
ginable, fober though fplendid. Dunmallet
R 4 at

248 ENGLAND.
at the foot of the lake was a formal un-»
pleafing objed, not large enough to be
grand, or wild enough to be romantic,
The ground of the common is finely
broken, and is fcattered fparingly with
white cottages, each pidurefquely fhadowed;
by its dark grove ; above, rife plantations
and gray crags which lead the eye forward
to the alpine forms, that crown the fecond
reach, changing their attitudes every inftant
as they are approached.
Ullfwater in all its windings, which give
it the form of the letter S, is nearly nine
miles long ; the width is various, fome
times nearly two miles and feldpm lefs than
one ; but Skelling-nab, a vaft rock in the
fecond reach, projeds fo as to reduce it
to lefs than a quarter of a mile. Thefe are
chiefly the reputed meafurements, but the
eye lofes its power of judging even of the
breadth, confounded by the boldnefs of the
fhores

ENGLAND. 249
fhores and the grandeur of the fells, that
rife beyond ; the proportions however are
grand, for the water retains its dignity,
notwithftanding the vaftnefs of its accom
paniments ; a circumftance, which Derwent-
water can fcarcely boaft.
The fecond bend, affuming the form of
a river, is very long, but generally broad,
and brought ftrongly to remembrance fome
of the paffes pf the Rhine beyopd Coblentz '•
though, here, the rocks, that rife over the
water, are little wooded ; and, there, their
fkirts are never margined by pafture,
or open to fuch fairy fummer fcenes of
vivid green mingling with fhades of wood
and gleams of corn, as fometimes appear
within the receffes of thefe wintry moun
tains. Thefe cliffs, however, do not fhew
the variety of hue, or marbled veins, that
frequently furprife and delight on the Rhine,
being generally dark and gray, and the va
rieties

250 E N G L A N D.
rieties in their complexion, when there 'are
any, purely aerial ; but they are vaft and
broken ; rife immediately from the ftream,
and often fhoot their maffes over it : while
the expanfe of water below accords with
the dignity of that river in many of its
reaches. Once too, there were other points
of refemblance, in the ruins of monasteries
and convents, which, though reafon rejoices
that they no longer exift, the eye may be
allowed to regret. Of thefe, all which now
remains on record is, that a fociety of Be-
nedidine monks was founded on the fum
mit of Dunmallet, and a nunnery of the
fame order on a point behind Sowlby-fell ;
traces of thefe ruins, it is faid, may ftill be
feen. Thus grandeur and immenfity are the
charaderiftics of the left fhore of the fe
cond reach ; the right exhibits romantic
wildnefs in the rough ground of Dacre-
commop

ENGLAND. 251
common and the craggy heights above, and,
further on, the fweeteft forms of repofing
beauty, in the graffy hillocks and undulat
ing copfes of Gowbarrow-park, fringing the
water, fometimes over little rocky emi
nences, that projed into the ftream, and, at
others, in fhelving bays, where the lake,
tranfparent as cryftal, breaks upon the peb
bly bank, and laves the road, that winds
there. Above thefe paftoral and fylvan
landfcapes, rife broken precipices," lefs tre
mendous than thofe of the oppofite fhore,
with paftures purfuing the crags to a con
fiderable height, fpeckled with cattle, which
are exquifitely pidurefque, as they graze
upon the knolls and among the old trees,
that adorn this finely declining park.
Leaving the hamlet of Watermillock at
fome diftance on the left, and paffing the
feat of Mr. Robinfon, fequeftered in the
gloom of beech and fycamores, there are
fine

252 ENGLAND.
fine views over the fecond reach, as the
road defcends the common towards Gow-
barrow. Among the boldeft fells, that
breaft the lake on the left fhore, are Hol- •
ling-fell and Swarth-fell, now no longer
boafting any part of the foreft of Martin*
dale, but fhewing huge walls of naked rock,
and fears, which many torrents have in-
fiided. One channel only in this dry fea-
fon retained its fhining ftream ; the chafm
xvas dreadful, parting the mountain from
the fummit to the bafe ; and its waters in
winter, leaping in foam from precipice tp
precipice, muft be infinitely fublime ; not,
Jiowever, even then from their mats, but
from the length and precipitancy of their
defcent. The perfpedive as the road defcends into
Gowbarrow-park is perhaps the very fineft
pn the lake. The fcenery of the firft reach
is almoft tame when compared with this, arid

England. 253
and it is difficult to fay where it can be
equalled for Alpine fublimity, and for
effeding wonder and awful elevation. The
lake, after expanding at a diftance to great
breadth, once more lofes itfelf beyond the
enormous pile of rock called Place-fell, op
pofite to which the fhore, teeming to clofe
Upon all further progrefs, is bounded by
two promontories covered with woods, that
fhoot their luxuriant foliage to the water's
edge. The fhattered mats of gray rock,
called Yew-crag, rifes immediately over
thefe, and, beyond, a glen opens to a chaos
of mountains more folemn in their afped,
and fingular in their fhapes, than any
which have appeared, point crowding over
point in lofty fucceffion. Among thefe is
S,tone-crofs-pike and huge Helvellyn, fcowl-
ing over all ; but, though this retains its
pre- eminence, its dignity is loft in the mafs
of alps around and below it. A fearful gloom

a54. ENGLAND,
gloom involved them ; the fhadows of 4
ftormy fky upon mountains of dark rock
and heath. All this is feen over the woody
fore-ground of the park, which, foon
fhrouding us in its bowery lanes, allowed
the eye and the fancy to repofe, while ven
turing towards new forms and affemblages
of fublimity.
Meantime, the green fhade, under which
we paffed, where the fultry low of cattle,
and the found of ftreams hurrying from
the heights through the copfes of Gowbar-
row to the lake below, were all that broke
the flillnefs ; thefe, with gleamings of the
water, clofe on the left, between the foliage,
and which was ever changing its hue, fome
times affumirig the foft purple of a pigeon's
neck, at others the filvery tint of funfhine
— thefe circumftances of imagery were in
toothing and beautiful variety with the gi
gantic vifions we had loft. The

ENGLAND. 255
The road ftill purfuing this border of the
lake, the copfes opened to partial views of
the bold rocks, that form the oppofite
fhore, and many a wild re'cefs and folemn
glen appeared and vanifhed among them,
fome fhewing only broken fells, the fides
of others fhaggy with forefts, and nearly all
lined, at their bafes, with narrow paftures
of the moft exquifite verdure. Thus de
fcending upon a fucceffion of fweeping bays,
where the fhades parted, and admitted the
lake, that flowed even with us, and again
retreating from it over gentle eminences,
where it glittered only between the leaves ;
crofting the rude bridges of feveral becks,
rapid, clear and foaming among dark flones,
and receiving a green tint from the clofely
fhadowing trees, but neither precipitous
enough in their defcent, nor ample enough
in their courfe, to increafe the dignity of
the fcene, we came, after paffing nearly three

256* ENGLAND.
three miles through the park, to Lyulph*s
Tower. This manfion, a fquare, gray edi-
k
ficd, with turreted corners, battlements and
windows in the Gothic ftyle, has been built
by the prefent Duke of Norfolk in one of
the fineft fituations of a park, abounding
with views of the grand and the fublime.
It flands on a green eminence, a little re
moved from the water, backed with wood
and with paftures rifing abruptly beyond,
to the cliffs and crags that crown them.
In front, the ground falls finely to the
lake's edge, broken, yet gentle, and fcatter
ed over with old trees, and darkened with
copfes, which mingle in fine variety of tints
with the light verdure of the turf beneath.
Herds of deer, wandering over the knolls,
and cattle, repofing in the fhade, completed
this fweet landfcape.
The lake is hence feen to make one of
its boldeft expanfes, as it fweeps round
Place-fell,

ENGLAND. 257
Place-fell, and flows into the third and laft
bend of this Wonderful vale* Lyulph's
Tower looks up this reach to the fouth, and
to the eaft traces all the fells and curving
banks of Gowbarrow, that bind the fe
cond ; while, to the weft, a dark glen
opens to a glimpfe of the folemn alp3
round Helvellyn ; and all thefe objeds are
feen oyer -the mild beauty ofthe park.
Paffing fine fweeps of the fhore and over
bold headlands, we came oppofite to the
vaft promontory, called' Place-fell, that
pufhes its craggy foot into the lakej like a
lion's claw, round which the waters make a
fudden turn, and enter Patterdale, their
third and final expanfe. In this reach^
they lofe the form of a river, and refume
that of a lake, being clofedj at three miles
diftance, by the ruinous rocks, that guard
the gorge of Patterdale, backed by a mul
titude of fells. The water, ia this fcope,
Vol, n. S is

4S$ E^^jLAND..
is of oval form, bounded on one fide fry*
the precipices- of Place-fell, Martindale-fell*
and feveral others equally rude and awful
that rife from its edge, and fbew no lines
¦*;¦<¦¦ -r *¦.'$. h/--- ' ' « ' '-¦ • ¦ ' "¦'"',
of verdure, or maffes of wood, but retire
in rocky bays, or projed in vaft promon
tories athwart it. The oppofite fhore is
lefs fevere and more romantic; the rocks-
are lower and richly wooded, and, often
receding, from the water, leave room for a
trad pf pafture, meadow land and corn, to
margin their ruggednefs. At the upper.
end, the village of Patterdale, and one or
two white farms, peep out from among
trees beneath the fcowling mountains, that
clofe the fcene ;- pitched in a rocky nook,
with corn and meadow land* floping gently
in front to the lake, and, here and there, a
fcattered grove. But this fcene is viewed
?o more advantage frpm one of the two,
woody ernirjenees,, that overhang, the lake,, juft

ENGL AN LV %5$
jiift at the point where it forms its laft an
gle, and, like an Opened compafs, fpreada
its two arms before the eye. Thefe heights
aire extremely beautiful, viewed from the
oppofite fhore, and had long charmed us
at a diftance. Approaching them, we croffed
another torrent, Glencoyn-beck, or Airey-*
force, which here divides not only the
eftates df the Duke of Norfolk and Mr.
Hodgkinfohj but the counties of Weftmore-
Iand and Cumberland ; and all the fells be
yond, that enclofe the laft bend of Ullf-
water, are in Patterdale. Here, on the
right, at the feet of awful rocks, was fpread
a gay autumnal fcene, in which the peafants
were fingirig merrily as they gathered the
bats into fheafs ; woods, turfy 'hillocks, and,
aco've all, tremendous crags, abruptly clofing
round the yellow harveft. The figures,
together with the whole landfcape, refem-
bled one of thofe beautifully fantaftic fcenes,
S 2 which

86o ENGLAND;
which fable calls up before the wand of the.
magician. Entering Glencoyn woods and fweeping
the boldeft bay of the lake, while the water
dafhed with a ftrong furge upon the fhore,
we at length mounted a road frightful from
its fleepriefs and its crags, and gained one
of'the wOoded fummits fo long admired.
From hence the view of Ullfwater is the
moft extenfive and various, that, its fhores
exhibit, comprehending its two principal
reaches, and though not the moft pidu-
refque, it is certainly the moft grand. To
the eaft, extends the -middle fweep in long
and equal perfpedive, walled with barren
fells on the right, and margined on the left
with the paftoral receffes and bowery pro-
jedions of Gowbarrow park, The rude
mountains above almoft feemed to have
fallen back from the fhore to admit this
landfcape within 'their hollow' bofom, and
then,

ENGLAND. 261
then, bending abruptly, appear, like Mil
ton's Adam viewing the fleeping Eve, tp
hang over it enamoured. ,
Lyulph's Tower is the only objed of art,
except the hamlet of Watermillock, feen in
the diftant perfpedive, that appears, in the
fecond bend of Ullfwater ; and this lofes
jhuch of its effed from the fquare unifor
mity ofthe ftrudure, and the glaring green
of its painted window-cafes. This is the
longeft reach of the lake.
Place-fell, which divides the two laft
bends, and was. immediately oppofite to the
point we were pn, is of the boldeft form.
Jt projeds into the water, an enormous
mats of gray crag, fcarred with dark hues ;
thence retiring a little it again bends for
ward in huge . cliffs, and finally ftarts up
into a vaft perpendicular face of rock. As
a fingle objed, it is- wonderfully grand ; and,
gonneded with the fcene, its, effed; is fub-
m ;-• S 3 Uriie,

a6* ENGLAND.
lime. The lower rocks are called Silvers
rays, and not inaptly ; for, when the fun,
fhines upon them, their variegated fides
fomewhat refemble in brightnefs the rays,
ftreamjng beneath a cloud.
The iaft reach of Ullfwater, whiel} is on
the right of this.ppint,expands intp an oval,
and its majeftic furface is fpPtted with little;
rocky iflets, that would adorn a lefs facred
fcene ; here they are prettineffes, that cap
fcarcely be tolerated by the grandeur of its
charader. The tremendous, mouptains,
which fcpwl oyer the gorge of Patterdale ;
tjie cliffs, maffy, broken and overlooked, by
a multitude of dark fummits, with the grey
walls pf Swarth and Martindale fells, that
Upheave themfelves on, the eaftern fhore,
fprm altogether pne of the moft grand and
awful pidures op the lake ; yet, admirable,
and impreffive as it is, as to folemnity and
aftpniffiment, ks effed with, us was pot,
equal

ENGLAND. 263
equal to that of the' more alpine fketch,
caught in diftant perfpedive from the de-
fcent into Gowbarrow-park.
In thefe views of Ullfwater, fublimity
and greatnefs are the predominating cha
raders, though beauty often glows upon
the weftern bank. The mountains are all
bold, gloomy and fevere, When we faw
them, the fky accorded well with the fcene,
being frequently darkened by autumnal
clouds ; and the equinodial gale fwept the
furface of the lake, marking its blacknefs,
with long white lin.es, and beating its waves
over the rocks to the foliage of the thickets
above. The trees, that fhade thefe emi
nences, give greater force to the fcenes,
which they either partially exclude, or
wholly admit, and become themfelves fine
pbjeds, enriched as they are with the darkeft
'mofs.
s il Ftom hence the ride c to the village of
S. 4 Patterdale,

264 ENGLAND.
Patterdale, at the lake's head, is, for the firft
part, over precipices covered with wood,
whence you look down, on the left, upon
the water, or upon paftures ftretching tp it ;
on the right, the rocks rife abruptly, and
often impend theit maffes over the road;
or open to narrow dells, green, rocky and
pVerlopked by ertdlefs mountains,
About half way to the village of Patter*
dale, a peninfula fpreads from this fhore
into the lake, where a white houfe, peeping
from a grove and furrounded with green
enclofures, is beautifully placed? ' This is
an inn, and, perhaps, the principal one, as
to accommodation ; but, though its fitua
tion, on a fpot which on each fide com
mands the lake, is very fine, it is not com
parable, in point pf wildnefs and fublimity,
to that of the cottage, called the King's
Arms, at Patterdale. In the way thither,
are enchanting catches of the lake, between the

ENGLAND. 265
the trees on the left, and peeps into the
gjens, that wind, among the alps towards
Helvellyn, on the right, Thefe multiply
aear the head ' of Ultfwater, where they
ftart off as from one point, like radii, and
cpnciude in tracklefs folitudes.
It is difficult to fpread varied pidures of
fuch fcenes before the imagination. A re
petition of the fame images of rock, wood
and water, and the fame epithets of grand,
vaft and fublime, which neceffarily occur,
muft appear tautologous, on paper, though
their archetypes in nature, ever varying in
outline, or arrangement, exhibit new vifions
to the eye, and produce new fhades of
effed on the mind. It is difficult alfo,
where thefe delightful differences have been
experienced, to forbear dwelling on the re^.
membrance, and attempting to fketch the
peculiarities, which occafioned them. The
fcenery at the head of Ullfwater is efpecially
productive of fuch difficulties, where a wifh to

266 ENGLAND/ '
to prefent the pidure, and a confeioufnefs
of the impoffibility of doing fo, except 'by
the pencil, meet and oppofe each other.
Patterdale itfelf is a name fomewhat fa
miliar to recolledion, from the circumftance
pf the chief eftate in it having given to jts
ppffeffors, for feveral centuries, the title of
Kings of Patterdale. The laft perfon fo dif-
tinguifhed was richer than his anceftors,
having increafed his income, by the moft
ludicrous parfimony, td a thoufand pounds
a year. His fon and fucceffor is 'an in*
duftrious country gentleman, who has im-p
proved the fort of farming rnanfion, an
nexed to the eftate, and, not affeding to
depart much from the fimple manners of
the other inhabitants, is refpedable enough
to be generally called by his own name of
Mounfey, inftead of the titles which was
probably feldom given to his anceftors, but;
|n fome fort of mockery*
The village is very humble, a3 to the
conditions

ENGLAND. s6>
conditions and views of the inhabitants;
and very refpedable, as to their integrity
and fimplicity, and to the contentment,
which is proved by the infrequency of emi
grations to other diftrids. ' It ftraggles at
the feet pf fells, fomewhat rempved from
the lake and near the entrance of the wild
vale of Glenridding, Its white church is
feen nearly from the commencement of the
laft reach, rifing among trees, and in the
church-yard are the ruins of an antient yew,
pf remarkable fize and venerable beauty;
jts trunk, hollowed and filvered by age, re-?
fembles twitted roots; yet the branches,
that remain above, are not pf melancholy
black,- but flourifh in rich verdure and flaky-
foliage. The inn is heyond the village, fecurely
fheltered under high crags, while enormPUs
fells, , clofe on the right, open to the gorge
of Patterdale ; and £oldriH-beck, iftuing from

268 ENGLAND. (
from it, defcends among the corn and mea*,'
dews, to join the lake at a , little diftance.
We had a happy evening at this cleanly
cottage, where there was no want, without
its recompenfe, from the civil offices pf the
people. Among the rocks, that rofe over
it, is a ftation, which has been more fre
quently fejeded than any other on the lake
by the painter and the lover of the beau
idee, as the French and Sir Joshua Rey
nolds expreffively term what Mr. Burke
explains in his definition of the word fine.
B^elow the point, on which we ftppd, a
trad of corn and meadow land fell gently
tp the lake, which expanded in great ma^.
jefty beyond, bounded on the right by the
precipices of many fells, and, on the left,
by rocks finely wooded, and of more broken
and fpiry outline. The undulating paftures,
and cp|)fes of Gowbarrow clofed th^ per
fpedive. .Round the whofe of thefe fhores, km;

ENGLAND. U$
but particularly on the left, rofe clufters of
dark and pointed fummits, affuming great
variety of fhape, amongft which Helvellyn
Was ftill pre-eminent. Immediately around
us, all was vaft and gloomy ; the fells
mount fwiftly and to enormous heights,
leaving at their bates only crags and hil
locks, tufted with thickets of dwarf-oak and
holly, where the beautiful cattle, that adorn
ed them, and a few fheep, were picking a
fcanty fupper among the heath.
From this fpot glens open on either
hand, that lead the eye only to a chaos of
mountains. The profile of one near the
fore-ground on the right is remarkably
grand, fhelving from the fummit in one
vaft fweep of rock, with only fome inter
ruption of craggy points near its bafe, into
the water. On one fide, it unites with
the fells in the gorge of Patterdale, and, on
the other, winds into 'a bold bay for the
lake.

%j® ^nGlAnd;
lake. Among the highlands, feen over thf
left fhote, is Common-fell, a large, heathy'
mountain, which appeared to face lis*
Somewhat nearer, is a lower one, called
Glenridding, and above it the Nab. Graff-
dale has Glenridding arid the Nab on; one
fide towards the water, and Birks-fell and
St. Sunday's-crag over that, on the other*
The points, that rife above the Nab, are
Stridon-edge, then Cove's head, and, over
all, the precipices of dark Helvellyn, now
appearing only at intervals among the
clouds. Not only every fell of this wild region
has a name, but almoft every crag of every
fell, fo that fhepherds fitting at the fire-fide'
can dired each other to the exad fpot
among the mountainsj where a ftray fheep
has been feen.
Among the rocks; on the right fhore, is
Martindale-fell, once fhaded with a foreft* from

ENGLAND. %7'f
from which it received its name, and which
fpreading to a vaft extent over the hills and
Vallies beyond, even as far as Hawfwater,
darkened the front of Swarth-fell and feve-i
ral others, that impend over the firft and
fecond reach of Ullfwater. Of the moun
tains, which tower above the glen of Pat
terdale, the higheft are Harter's-fell, Kid-
flow-pike, and the ridge, called the High-
ftreet ; a name, which reminded us of the
Gerrrian denomination, Berg-flraffe.
The effed of a ftormy evening upon
the fcenery was folemn. Clouds finoked
along the fells, veiling them for a moment,
and paffing on to other fummits ; or fome
times they involved the lower fleeps, leav
ing the tops unobfcured and refembling
iflands in a diftant ocean. The lake was
dark and tempeftuous, dafhing the rocks
with a ftrong foam. It was a fcene Wor
thy of the fublimity of Offian, and brought to

>7* ENGLAND.
to recolledion fome touches of his gloomy
pencil. " When the ftorms of the moun
tains come, when the north lifts the waves
on high, I fit by the founding fhore, &c."
A large hawk, failing proudly in the air,
and wheeling among the ftormy clouds, fu-
perior to the fhock of the guft, was the
only animated objed in the upward pro-
fped. We were told, that the eagles had
forfaken their aeries in this neighbourhood
and in Borrowdale, and are fled to the ifle
of Man ; but one had been feen in Pat
terdale, the day before, which, not being at
its full growth, could not have arrived from
a great diftance.
We returned to our low-roofed habita
tion, where, as the wind fwept in hollow
gulls alorig the mountains and ftrove
againft our cafements, the crackling blaze
of a wood fire lighted up the cheerfulnefs,
which, fo long fince as Juvenal's time, has
been

England. 273
been allowed to arife from the contraft of
eafe againft difficulty. Suave mari magnoy
iurbantibus aquora vent is; and, however we
might exclaimj

be my retreat

Between the groaning foreft and the fhore,
Beat by the boundlefs multitude of waves !"
it was pleafant to add,
,( Where ruddy fire and beaming tapers join
To cheer the gloom."

vox. 11. T BROUGH-

274 ENGL;ANDj

BROUGHAM CASTLE.
±^  ¦._._..  ¦  ^'«v

1 he next morning, we proceeded'
frpm Ullfwater along the vale of Emont,
fo fweetly adorned by the woods and fawns
of Dalemain, the feat of Mr. Haffel, whofe
manfion is feen in the bottom. One ofthe
moft magnificent prqfpeds in the country
is when this" vale opens to. that of Eden.
The mountainous range of Crofs-fell front
ed us, and its appearance, this day, was very
ftriking, for the effed of autumnal light
and fhade. The upper range, bright in
Tunihine, appeared to rife,,, like light clouds
above the lower, which was involved in
dark fhadow, fo that it was a confiderable
time before the eye could deted the . illu--
fion. The effed of this was inexpreffibly
interefting. Within-

ENGLAND. 275
Within view of Emont bridge, which
divides the counties of Cumberland and
Weftmoreland, is that memorial of antient
times, fo often defcribed under the name of
Arthur's Round Table ; a green circular
fpot of • forty paces diameter, enclofed by a
dry ditch, and, beyond this, by a bank ;
each in fufficient prefervation to fhew exad-
ly what has been its form. In the midft
of the larger circle is another of only. feven
paces diameter. We have no means of
adding to* or even of corroborating any of
the well known conjectures, concerning the
ufe of this rude and certainly very antient
monument. Thofe not qualified to propofe
decifions in this refped may, however,'
fuffer themfelves to believe, that the bank
without the ditch and the enclofure within
it were places for different claffes of perfons,
inrerefted as parties, or fpedators, in fome
tranfadions, paffing within the inner circle ;
T 2 and

276 ENGLAND*.
and that thefe, whether religious, civil, of
military ceremonies, were rendered dj'ftind;
and confpicuous, for the purpofe of impref-
fing them upon the memory of the fpeda-
fors, at a time when memory and tradition
were the only prefervatives of hiftory.
Paffing a bridge, under which the Low-
ther, from winding and romantic banks^
enters the vale of Eden, we afcended be
tween the groves of Bird's Neft, or, as it
is now called, Brougham Hall ; a white
manfion, with battlements and gothic win
dows, having formerly a bird painted on*
the front.. It is perched among woods, on
the brow ofa fteep, but not lofty hill,, and
commands enchanting profpeds over the
vale. The winding Emont ; the ruins, of
Brougham Caftle on a green knoll of Whin-
field park, furrounded with old groves ; far
beyond this, the highlands of Crofs-fell ; to
the north, Carieton-halk, the handfome mo
dern

ENGLAND. 277
dem manfion of Mr. Wallace, amidft lawns
of incomparable verdure and luxuriant
woods falling from the heights ; further
ftill, the mountain, town and beacon of
Penrith ; thefe are the principal features of
the rich landfcape, fpread before the eye
from the fummit of the hill, at Bird's
Nell. As we defcended to Brougham Caftle,
about a mile further, its ruined maffes of
pale re^I ftone, tufted with fhrubs and
plants, appeared between groves of fir,
beach, oak and afh, amidft the broken
ground of Whipfield park, a quarter ofa
mile through which brpught us to the ruin
itfelf. It was guarded by a flurdy maftiff,
worthy the office of porter to fuch a place,
and a good effigy of the Sir Porter of a for
mer age. Brougham Caftle, venerable for
its well-certified antiquity and for the hoary
maffes it now exhibits, is rendered more
T 3 interefting

278 ENGLAND.,
interefting by having been occafionally, the
refidence of the humane and . generous,. Sir
Philip Sydney ; who had only to look from
the windows of this once noble edifice to
fee his own " Arcadia" fpreading on. every
fide.' The landfcape probably awakened
his imagination, for it was during a vifit
here, that the greateft part of that work was
written. This edifice, once amongft the ftrongeft
and moft important of the border fortreffes,
is fuppofed to have been fpunded by the
Romans ; but the firft hiflorical record con
cerning it is dated in the time of William
the Conqueror, who granted it to his ne
phew, Hugh de Albinois. His fucceffors
held it, till 1170, when Hugh de Morville,
one of the murderers of Thomas a Becket,
forfeited it by his crime. Brougham: was
afterwards , granted by: King John to a
grandfon of Hugh,, Robert de Vippnt, whofe

ENGLAND. 279
whofe grandfon again forfeited the eftate,
which was, however, reftored to his daugh
ters, one of whom marrying a De Clifford,
it remained in this family, till a daughter of
the celebrated Countefs of Pembroke gave
it by -marriage to that of the Tuftons, Earls
of Thanet, in which it now remains.
'This cattle has been thrice nearly de
molifhed ; firft by negled, during the -mi
nority of Roger de Vipont, after which it
was fufficiently reftored to receive James
the Firft, on his return from Scotland, in
1 6 1 7 ; fecondly, in the civil wars of Charles
the Firft's time; and thirdly, in 1728,
When great part of the edifice was delibe
rately taken down, and the materials fold for
one hundred pounds. Some of the walls
ftill remaining are twelve feet thick, and
the places are vifible, in which the maffy
gates were held to them by hinges ?nd
bolts of uncommon fize. A fuller proof nf
T 4 *™.-3

2.8o ENGLAND,
the many facrifices of comfort and conve
nience, by which the higheft claffes in for-?
met ages were glad to purchafe fecurity, is
very feldom afforded, than by the three de
tached parts ftill left of this edifice; but
they fhew nothing of the magnificence and
gracefulnefs, which fo often charm the eye
in gothic ruins. Inftead of thefe, they ex
hibit fymptoms of the cruelties, by which
their firft lords revenged upon others the
wretchednefs of the continual fufpicion felt
by themfelves. Dungeons, fecret paffages
and heavy iron rings remain to hint pf un
happy wretches, who were, perhaps, refcued;
only by death from thefe horrible engines
of a tyrant's will. Tfie bones probably of
fuch yidims are laid beneath the damp
earth of thefe vaults.
A young woman from a neighbouring
farm«houfe conducted us over broken banks,
wafhed by the Emont, tp. what had been the

ENGLAND. 28t
the grand entrance of the caftle ; a venera
ble gothic gateway, dark and of great
depth, paffing under a fquare tower, finely
fhadowed by old elms. Above, are a crofs-
Joop and two tier of fmall pointed win
dows ; no battlements appear at the top ;
but four rows of corbells, which proba
bly once fupported them, now prop fome
tufts of antient thorn, that have roots in
their fradures.
As wTe paffed under this long gateway,
we looked into what is ftill called the Keep,
a fmall vaulted room, receiving light only
from loops in the outward wall. Near a
large fire-place, yet entire, is a trap door
leading to the dungeon below ; and, in an
oppofite corner, a door-cafe to narrow flairs,
that wind up the turret, where too, as well
as in the vault, prifoners were probably
fecured. One aknoft faw the furly keeper
defcending through- this door-cafe, and
heard

zSa ENGLAND.
heard him rattle the keys of the chambers
above, liftening with indifference to the
clank of chains and to the echo of that
groan below, which feemed to rend the
heart it burft from.
This gloomy gateway, which had once
founded with the trumpets and h'orfes of
James the Firft, when he vifited the Earl of
Cumberland, this gateway, now ferving
only to fhetter cattle from the ftorm, opens,
*t length, to a graffy knoll, with bold
maffes of the ruin fcattered round it and a
few old afh trees, waving in the area.
Through a fradured arch in the rampart
fome features in the fcenery without appear
to advantage ; the Emont falling over a weir
at fome diftance, with fulling-mills on the
bank above ; beyond, the paftured flopes
and woodlands of Carleton park, and Crpfs-
i fell fweeping the back-ground,
Of the three ruinous parts, that now re
main.

ENGLAND. 283
jnain of the edifice, one large fquare mat's,
near the tower and gateway, appears to
have contained the principal apartments;
the walls are of great height, and, though
rooflefs, nearly entire. We entered what
feemed to have been the great hall, now
ehoaked with rubbifh and weeds. It was
interefting to look upwards through the
void, and trace by the many window-cafes,
that appeared at different heights in the
walls, fomewhat of the plan of apartments,
whofe floors and ceilings had long fince
yanifhed ; majeftic reliques, which fhewed,
fhat here, as well as at Hardwick, the chief
rooms had been in the fecond ftory. Door-
cafes, that had opened to rooms without,
this building, with remains of paffages
yvithin the walls, were frequently feen, and,
here and there, in a corner at a vaft height,
fragments of a winding flair-cafe, appearing
beyond the arch of a flender door- way. We

s84 ENGLAND.
We were tempted to enter a ruinous paf
fage below, formed in the great thicknefs of
the walls ; but it was foon loft in darknefs,
and we were told that no perfon had ven
tured to explore the end of this, or of rriany
fimilaf paffages among the ruins, now the
dens of ferpents and other venomous rep
tiles. It was probably a fecret way to the
great dungeon, which may ftill be feen, un
derneath the half ; for the roof remains,
though what was called the Sweating Pillar,
from the dew, that was owing to its damp
fituation and its feclufion from outward air,,
no longer fupports it. Large iron rings,
faftened to the carved heads of animals, are
ftill fhewn in the walls of this dungeon.
Not a fingle loop-hole was left by the con
triver of this hideous vault for the refrefh-
ment of prifoners ; yet were they intuited
by fome difplay of gothic elegance, for the
pillar already mentioned, fupporting tlie
centre.

ENGLAND. 285
centre of the roof, fpread frpm thence into
eight branches, which defcended the walls,
and terminated at the floor in the heads*
holding the iron rings.
¦ " ''.i/l
The fecond mats of the ruin, which,
though at a confiderable diftance from the
main building, was formerly conneded with
it, thews the walls of many fmall chambers,
with reliques of the paffages and ftairs, that
led to them. But, perhaps, the only pidu-
fefque feature of the caftle is the third. de
tachment; a fmall tower finely Shattered*
having near its top a flourifhing afh, grow
ing from the folid walls, and overlooking
what was once the moat. We mounted a
perilous flair- cafe, of which many fteps
were gone, and others trembled to the pref-
fure ; then gained a turret, of which two
fides were alfo fallen, and, at length, af-
eended to the, whole magnificence and fiib-
limity of the profped,
; ' :?; To

2g6 ENGLAND.
To the eaft, fpread nearly all the fieri
vale of Eden, terminated by the Stainmore
hills and other highlands of Yorkfhire ; to
the north-eaft, the mountains of Crofs-fel'l
bounded the long landfcape. The nearer
grounds were Whinfield-park, broken, to
wards the Emont, into fhrubby fleeps-,
where the deep red of the foil mingled with
the verdure of foliage ; part of Sir Michael
le Fleming's woods rounding a hill on the
oppofite bank, and, beyond, a wide extent
of low land. To the fouth, fwelled the
upland boundaries of Bampton-vale, with
Lowther-woods, fhading the paftures and
diftantly crowned by the fells of Hawf
water ; more to the weft, Bird's Neft, " bo-
fomed, high in tufted trees ;" at its foot,
Lowther-bridgc, and, a little further* the
neat hamlet and bridge of Emont. In the
low lands, ftill nearer, the Lowther and
Emont united, the latter flowing in fhining
j% -.-¦;/ circles

ENGLAND. 287
Circles among the woods and deep-green
meadows of Carleton-park. Beyond, at a
vaft diftance to the weft and north, rofe all
the alps of all the lakes ! an horizon fcarce
ly to be equalled in England. Among thefe
broken mountains, the fhaggy ridge of Sad
dleback was proudly pre-eminent ; but one
forked top of its rival Skiddaw peeped over
its declining -fide. Helvellyn, huge and mif-
fhapen, towered above the fells of Ultf
water. The fun's rays, ftreaming from be
neath a line of dark clouds, that overhung.
the weft, gave a tint of filvery light to all
thefe alps, and reminded us of the firft ex-
quifite appearance of the mountains, at
Goodefbergj which, however, in grandest
and elegance of outline, united with, pidu-
refque richnefs, we have never feen equal
led. Of the walls around . us every ledge,.
marking their many ftories, was. emboffed wkb)

288 ENGLAND/
with luxuriant vegetation. Tufts of the
hawthorn feemed' to grow from the folid
ftone,' and flender fa'pfings of afh waved
over i&e 'deferred" door-cafes, where, at the
transforming hour of twilight, the fuperfti-
tious eye might miftake them for fpedres
of fome early poffeffor of the caftle, reftlefs
from guilt, or of fome fufferer perfevering
from vengeance.

THE TOWN AND BEACON- OF PENRITH.
Having purfued the road one mile
further, for the purpofe of vifiting the ten
der memorial of pious affedion, fo often
defcribed under the name of Countefs' Fil-
lar, we returned to Emont-bridge, and from
thence reached Penrith, pronounced Pey-
rith, the moft fouthera* town of Cumber land.

£NG,LA;ND* 289,
kricL So far Off as the head of Ullfwater,
fourteen miles, this is talked of as an im
portant place, and looked to as the ftore-
houfe of whatever is wanted more than
the fields and lakes fupply. Thofe, who
have lived chiefly in large towns, have tp
learn, from the wants and dependencies of
a people thinly fcattered, like the inhabi
tants of all mountainous regions, the great
value of any places of mutual retort, how
ever little diftinguifhed in the general view
of a country. Penrith is fo often mentioned
in the neighbourhood, that the firft appear
ance of it fomewhat difappointed us, becaufe
we had not confidered how many ferious
reafpns thofe, who talked of it, might have
for their eftimation, which 'fhould yet not at
all relate to the qualities, that render places
interefting to a traveller.
The town, confifting chiefly of old
iioufes, ftraggles along twp fides ofthe high
vol. 11, D north

290 ENGLAND^
north road, and is built upon the fide of A\
mountain, that towers to great height above
it, in fteep and heathy knolls, unfhaded by
a fingle tree. nrEminent, on the fummit of
this mountain, Hands the old, folitary bea
con, vifible from almoft every part of Pen
rith, which, notwithftanding its many fymp-»
toms of antiquity, is not deficient of neat-*
nets. iliThe houfes are chiefly white, with
dpor~ and window cafes of the red ftone
found in the neighbourhood, fi; Some of the
fmaller have over their doors dates of the
latter end ofthe fixteenth century, n There
are feveral inns, of which that called i Old
Buchanan's was recommended to us, firft,
by the recolledion, ^ that t Mr. Gray had
mentioned it, and afterwards by the comfort
and';civility we fourtd there, it jr o ; h-tthof:
a Some traces? of the Seottifh dialed and
pronunciation appear 'as far fouth as Lan
cashire-; in ;Weftmoreland, they become
flronger j

ENGLAND. 2gt
ftronger ; and, at Penrith, are extremely
diftind and general, ferving for one among
many peaceful indications of an approach,
once notified chiefly by preparations . -for
hoftility* or defence. Penrith is the moft
fouthern town in England at which the
guinea notes of the Scotch bank are in cir-?
culation. The beacon, a fort of fquare
tower, with a peaked ropf and openings at
the fides, is a more perfed inftance of the
direful neceffities of paft ages, than would
be expeded to remain in this. The cir-
cutnftances are well known, which made
fuch watchfulnefs efpecially proper, at Pen
rith ; and the other traces of warlike habits
and precautions, whether appearing in re
cords, or buildings, are too numerous to be
noticed in a fketch, which rather pretends
to defcribe what the author has feen, than
to enumerate' what • has been difcovered by
the refearches of others. Dr. Burn's Hif-
U 2 tory

2o-2 ENGLAND.
tory contains many curious particulars ; and
there are otherwife abundant and fatisfac-
tory memorials, as to the ftate of the de-
batCable ground,, the regulations for fecuring
paffes or fords, and even to the public
maintenance of flough dogs, which were
to purfue aggreffors* with hot trod, as the
inhabitants were to follow them by horn
i..
and voice. ! Thefe are all teftimonies, that
among the many evils, inflided upon coun
tries by war, that, which is not commonly
thought of, is not the leaft ; the public en
couragement of a difpofition to violence,
under !rthe names of ^gallantry,1* or valour,
which will- not ceafe exadly when it*is
publicly prohibited'; and the education of
numerous bodies to habits of fupplying their
Wants," not by conftant and ufeful labour,
but by fudden and deftrudive' exertions -of
force. The miftake, • by which courage is
rWeafed; from' all moral eftimation 6% the
purpofes,

ENGLAND. 293
purpofes, for which it is exerted, ^and is
confidered to be neceffarily and univerfally
a* good in itfelf, rather than a means. of
good, 6r of evil, according to its applica
tion, is among the fevereft misfortunes' ; ,qf
mankind. Tacitus has an admirable .are-
proof of it —

.-. ¦•" Ubi. manu agitur, niodeffiia et prpbitas n<3-
•niina. fuperioris funt"

<li<

n^ Though the fituation of Penrith, looking
pp the vales of Eden and Emont, is, re
markably pleafant, that of the beacon above
is ^infinitely finer, commanding an horizon
>£>f,at leaft an hundred miles diameter, filled
with an endlefs variety of beauty, great-
pefs and fublimity. The view extends, over
Cumberland, parts of Weftmoreland, Lan
cashire, Yorkfhire, and a cornerrof North
umberland and Durham. On a clear, day,
Uj the

294

ENGLAND.

the Seottifh high lands, beyond Solway
Fifth, may be diftinguifhed, like faint
clouds, on the horizon, and the fteeples of
Carlifle are plainly vifible. AU the inter-"
vening country, fpeckled with towns and,
villages, is fpread beneath the eye, and,
nearly eighty miles to the eaft ward, part of
the Cheviot-hills are traced, a dark line,
binding the diftance and marking the fepa-
ration between earth and fky. On the
plains towards Carlifle, the nearer ridges of
Crofs-fell are feen to commence, and thence
ftr'etch their barren fteeps thirty miles to
wards the eaft, where they difappear among
the Stainmore- hills and the huge moorlands
of Yorkfhire, that clofe up the long land-
feape of the vale of Eden. Among thefe,
the broken lines of Ingleborough ftart above
all the broader ones of the moors,' and that
mountain ftill proclaims itfelf fovereigmof
the Yorkfhire heights. ^ >jjsv> .;.<«:
Southward,

ENGLAND. 295
(Southward, rife the wonders of Weft-
mpreland, Shapfells, ridge over ridge, the,
nearer pike? of FJawfwater, and then the
mountains of Ullfwater, Helvellyn pre-emir
nent amongft them, diftinguifhed by the
grandeur and boldnefs pf tlieir outline, as
well as the variety of their fhapes ; fome
hugely - fwellipg, tome afpiring in clufters
of alpine points, and fome broken into
ftiaggy ridges. The fky, weftward from
hence and far to the north, difplays a vifion
of Alps, Saddleback fpreading towards Kef-
wick its long fhattered ridge, apd one top
of Skiddaw peering beyond it; but the
others of this diftrid are inferior in gran
deur to the fells of Ullfwater, more broken
into points, and with lefs of contraft in their
forms. Behind Saddleback, the fkirts of
Skiddaw fpread themfelves, and, thence low
hills fhelve into rthe plains of Cumberland,,
that extend to Whitehaven; the only level
;0-- ' ¦ ¦ U4 fine.

296 ENGLAND.
line in the fcope of this vaft horizon. The
* fcenery nearer to the eye" exhibited cultiva
tion in its richeft ftate, varied with paftoral
and fylvan beauty ; landfcapes embellifhed
by the elegancies of art,1- and rendered ve
nerable by the ruins of time. '' In the* vale
of Eden, Carleton-hall, flourifiung under the
hand of careful attention, and Bird's Neft,
luxuriant in its fpiry woods,, oppofed their
cheerful beauties to fhe?negleded walls of
Brougham Caftle, once' the terror, and, even
in ruins, the pride of the ¦'fcene, now half,
fhrouded in its melancholy grove. Thefe
febjeds were lighted^up by'partial gleams
of fun fhine,t:* which, as they fled along
the valley, gave magical effed to all "they
touched. !
JW The other vales in the horhe- profped
were thofe of Barfljlton and Emont ; the
firft open and gentle, fhaded by the gradual
ii^lds of Lowther-park ;' the laft clofer and

:ifio

more

ENGLAND. 297
more romantic, withdrawing in many a lin
gering bend towards Ullfwater, where it . is
clofed|by the pyranudjal Dunmallard, but
pot before a gleam of the lake is fufiered
to appear beyond the dark bale pf theTiili.
At the nearer end of the vale, and immedi
ately under the eye, the venerable ruins of
Penrith Caftle creft a round green .hill.
, Thefe are ,of pale-red ftone, and Hand in
••detached maffes ; but have little that, is
pidurefque in their appearance, time haying
fpared neither tower,ror gateway, and not
a Tingle tree giving fhade, or force,,. tp. the
Chattered walls. -J The ground about the caf
tle is broken into graffy knolls, and only
cattle wander over the defolated trad., Time
... r
has alfo obfcured the name of the founder ;
but it is known? that the main, building was
^repaired, Hand fome addition made to. it, by
jj Richard = the Third, when Duke of Glbu-
Lcefterj who lived here, for five years, in, .his
v,r,r,,. office

298 ENGLAND.
office of theriff of Cumberland, promoting
the York intereft by artful hofpitalities, and
endeavouring to ftrike terror into the Lan
castrians. Among- the ruins is a fubterra-
neous paffage, leading to a houfe in Penrith,
above three hundred yards diftant, called
Dockwray Caftle. The town lies between
the fortrefs and the Beacon-hill, fpreading
prettily along the fkirts of the mountain,
with its many roofs of blue flate, among'
which the church rifes near a dark grove.
Penrith, from the latter end of the laft
century, till lately, when it was purchafed
by the Duke of Devonfliire, belonged to
the family of Portland, to whom it was
given by William the Third ; probably in
ftead of the manors in Wales, which it was
one of William's few faulty defigns to have
given to his favourite companion, had not
Parliament remonftrated, and informed him,
$hat the Crown could not alienate the ter
ritories

ENGLAND. 299
ritories,of the Principality. The church, a
building of red> ftone, unufually well dif--
pofed in the interior, is a vicarage of fmall >
endowment ; but the value of money in
this part ofthe kingdom is fo high,, that
the merit- of independence, a merit and a
happinefs which fhould always belong to
clergymen, is attainable b.y the poffeffors of
very moderate incomes. What is called
the Giant's Grave in the church-yard is a
narrow fpot, inclofed, to the length of four
teen or fifteen feet, by rows of low flones,
at the fides, and, at the ends, by two pil
lars, now flender, but apparently worn by
the weather from a greater thicknefs. The
height of -thefe is eleven or twelve feet;
and all the. flones, whether in the borders,
at the fides, or in thefe • pillars, bear traces
of rude carving, .which fhew, at leaft, that
the monument muft have been thought very
important by thofe that raifed it, . fince the
Angularity

3po ENGL AN D,
Angularity of its fize .was not held a fuffi?
cient ;djftindipn.r We .pored.- intently oyer
thefe traces, though certainly .withput the
fior^^ef discovering any thing not known
to tj5e< eminent antiquarians, who have cpnr
fe,ffejci their ignorance concerning the origin
pfthern, . ,r,

FROM PENRITH TO KESWICK.
e_ :.?: j v ' ' ¦'¦'-¦-  — ¦ ,;..,¦ -.. ' .-...,' ' '¦'¦_':¦ ffa^a
Ihe Gray flock road, which wetppk
for the firft five or fix miles, is unintereft-
. :.' ^ '' ,0"/'
ing, and offers nothing worthy of attention,
before the approach to the caftle, the feat
of the Duke of Norfolk. The appearance
of this from the road is good ; a gray build
ing, with gotfiic towers, feated in a valley
, , ,, .. ... ¦,,., ., '.(.'. f' C,T.:" ' -- r*/A.. J
among lawns and woods, t.hat ftretch, with.
great pomp of fhade,, to gently-rifing, hills.
Behind

ENGLAND.-1 361
Behind thefe, Saddleback, huge, gray and
barren, rifes with all its ridgy lines ;! a grand
and fimple back-ground, giving exquifite
effed to the dark woods below. Such is
the height of the mountain, that, though
eight or ten miles Pff, it appeared, v as we
approached the caftle, almoft to impend over
it. Southward from Saddleback, a multi
tude of pointed fummits crowd the horizon ;
and it is moft interefting, after leaving
Gray flock, to obferve their changing atti
tudes, as you advance, and the gradual dif-
clofure of their larger features. Perhaps, a
fudden difplay of the fublimeft fcenery,
however full, imparts lefs emotion, than a
gradually increafing view of it ; when ex-
pedation takes the higheft tone, and imagi
nation finifhes the fketch.
About two miles beyond Gray flock, the
moorlands" commence, and, as "far" as fimple
greatriefscbnftitutes'fublimityj this was, ih-
"-¦.;.' deed,

3os ENG'LANK
deed, a fublime vprofped ; lefs fo only thati
that from Shapfell itfelf, where the moun*
tains are not fo varied in their forms and
are plainer in their grandeur. We were
on a vaft plain, if plain that may be called,
which fwells into long undulations, fur
rounded by an amphitheatre of heathy
mountains, that feem to have been fhook
by fome grand convulfion of the earth,
and tumbled around in all fhapes. Not a
tree, a hedge, and feldom even a ftone wall,
broke the grandeur of their lines ; what was
not heath was only rock and gray crags ;
and a fhepherd's hut, or his flocks,- browfmg
on the fteep fides ofthe fells, or in the nar
row vallies, that opened diftantly, was all
that diverfified the vaft fcene. Saddleback
fpread his fkirts weftward along the plain,
and then reared himfelf in terrible and
lonely majefty. - In the long perfpedive
beyond, were the crowding points of the
fells

ENGLAND. 303
fells round Kefwick, Borrowdale, and the
Vales of St. John and Leyberthwaite, ftreteh-
ing away to thofe near Grafmere. The
weather was in folemn harmony with the
fcenery ; longfhadows fwept over the hills,
followed by gleaming lights. Tempeftuous
gufts alone broke the filence. Now and
then, the fun's rays had a fingular appearr
ance ; pouring, from under clouds, between
the tops of fells into fome deep vale, at a
diftance, as into a focus.
This is the very region', which the wild
fancy of a poet, like Shakefpeare, would
people with witches, and IheW them at their
incantations, calling fpirits from the clouds
and fpedres from the earth.
On the now lonely plains of this vaft
amphitheatre, the Romans had two camps,
and their Eagle fpread its wings over a
fceneK worthy of its own .foarings. The
fines of thefe encampments may ftill be
r^ traced

304 ENGLAND*
traced on that part of the plain, called Hut-
ton Moor, to the north of the high road ;
and over its whole extent towards Kefwick
a Roman way has been difcovered. Fune
real urns have alfo been dug up here, and
an altar of Roman form, but with the in
fcription obliterated.
Nearer Saddleback, we perceived crags
and heath mingling on its precipices, and
its bafe broken into a little world of moun
tains, green with cultivation. White farms,
each with its' grove to fhelter it from the
defcending gufts, corn and paftures of the
brighteft verdure enlivened the fkirts ofthe
mountain all round, climbing towards the
dark heath and crags, or fpreading down
wards into the vale of Threlkeld, where
the flender Lowther fhews his fhining
ftream. "Leaving Hutron Moor, the road foon
began to afcend the fkirts' of Saddleback, and

ENGLAND. 305
and patted between green hillocks, where
cattle appeared moft elegantly in the moun
tain fcene, under the crags, or fipping at
the clear ftream, that gufhed from the rocks,
and wound to the vale below. Such cry
ftal rivulets croffed our way continually,
as we rofe upon the fide of Saddleback,
which towers abruptly on the right, and, on
the left, finks as fuddenly into the vale of
Threlkeld, with precipices fometimes little
lefs than tremendous. This mountain is
-the northern boundary of the vale in its
whole length to Kefwick, the points of
Whofe fells clofe the perfpedive. Rocky
heights guard it to the fouth. The valley
between is green, without wood, and, with
much that is grand, has little beautiful, till
near its conclufion ; where, more fertile
and ftill more wild, it divides into three
narrower vallies, two of which difclofe
fcenes of fuch fublime feverity as even our
\6l. 11. X lon3

3o6 ENGLAND;
long view of Saddleback had not prepared
Us to exped.
The firft of thefe is the vale of St. John,
a narrow, cultivated fpot, lying in the bo-
fom of tremendous rocks, that impend over
it in maffes of gray crag, and often refem
ble the ruins of caftles. Thefe rocks are
overlooked by ftill more awful mountains,
that fall in abrupt lines, and clofe up the
vifta, except where they alfo are command
ed by the vaft top of Helvellyn. On every
fide, are images of defolation and ftupen-
dous greatnefs, doting upon a narrow line
of paftoral richnefs; a pidure of verdant
beauty, feen through a frame of rock work.
It is between the cliffs of Threlkeld-feil and
the purple ridge of Nadale-fell, that this
vale feems to repofe in its moft filent and
perfed peace. No village and fcarcely a
cottage difturbs its retirement. The flocks,
that feed at the feet of the cliffs, arid the
fteps

ENGLAND. 307
fteps of a fhepherd, "in this office of his
mountain watch," are all, that haunt the
u dark fequeftered nook."
The vale of Nadale runs parallel with
that of .St. John, from which it is feparated
by the ridge of Nadale-fell, and has the
fame ftyle of charader, except that it is
terminated by a well wooded mountain.
Beyond this, the perfpedive is overlooked
by the fells, that terminate the vale of St.
John. The third valley, opening from the head
of Threlkeld, winds along the feet of Sad
dleback and Skiddaw to Kefwick, the ap
proach to which, with all its world of rocky
fummits, the lake being ftill funk below
the fight, is fublime beyond the power of
defcription. Within three miles of Kef
wick, Skiddaw unfolds itfelf, clofe behind
Saddleback ; their fkirts unite, but the for
mer is lefs huge and of very different form
X 2 from

308 ENGLAND.
from the laft ; being more pointed and
feldomer broken into precipices, it darts up
ward with a vaft fweep into three fpiry
fummits, two of which only are feen from
this road, and fhews fides dark- with heath
and little varied with rock. Such- is its af-
ped from the Penrith road; from other
flations its attitude, fhape and colouring are
very different, though its alpine termina
tions are always vifible.
Threlkeld itfelf is a fmall village, about
thirteen miles from Penrith, with a very
humble inn, at which thofe, who have
paffed the bleak fides of Saddleback, and
thofe, who are entering upon them, may
rejoice to reft. We had been blown about,
for fome hours, in an open chaife, and
hoped for more refrefhment than could be
obtained ; but had the fatisfadion, which
was, indeed, general in thefe regions, of oh-
ferving the good intentions, amounting al
moft

ENGLAND. 309
moft to kindnefs, of the cottagers towards
their guefts. They have nearly always fome
fare, which lefs civility than theirs might
render acceptable ; and the hearth blazes in
their clean fanded parlours, within, two
minutes after you enter them. Some fort
of preferved fruit is conftantly ferved after
the repaft, with cream, an innocent luxury,
for which no animal has died,
It is not only from thofe, who are to
gain by ftrangers, but from almoft every
perfon, accidentally accofted by a queftion,
that this favourable opinion will be formed,
as to the kind and frank manners of the
people. We were continually remarking,
between Lancafter and Kefwick, that fevere
as the winter might be in thefe diftrids,
from the early fymptoms of it then appa
rent, the condud of the people would ren
der it fcarcely unpleafant to take the fame
journey in the depths of December.
X3 In

^io ENGLAND.
In thefe countries, the farms are, for the
moft part, fmall, and the farmers and their
children work in the fame fields with their
fervants. Their families have thus no op
portunities of temporary infight into the
fociety, and luxuries of the great, and have
none of thofe miferies, which dejeded va
nity and multiplied wifhes inflid upon the
purfuers of the higher ranks. They are
alfo without the bafenefs, which fuch pur
fuers ufually have, of becoming abjed be
fore perfons of one clafs, that by the autho
rity of an apparent connedion with them,
they may be infolent to thofe of another;
and are free from the effential humiliation
of fhewing, by a general and undiftinguifh-
ing admiration of all perfons richer than
themfelves, that the original diftindions be
tween virtue and vice have been erafed
from their minds by the habit of comparing
the high and the low, The

ENGLAND. 311
The true confcioufpefs of independence,
which labour and an ignorance of the
vain appendages, falfely called luxuries,
give to the inhabitants of thefe diftrids, is
probably the caufe of the fuperiority, per
ceived by ftrangers in their tempers and
manners, over thofe of perfons, apparently
better circumftanced. They have no re
membrance of flights, to be revenged by
infults ; no hopes from fervility, nor irrita
tion from the defire of unattainable diftinc-
tions. Where, on the contrary, the encou
ragement of artificial wants has produced
dependence, and mingled with the fiditious
appearance of wealth many of the moft
real evils of poverty, the benevolence of
the temper flies with the fimplicity of
the mind. There is, perhaps, not a more
odious profped of human fociety, than
where an. oftentatious, manoeuvring and
corrupted peafantry, taking thofe, who in-
X 4 <*uce

312 ENGLAND.
duce them to crimes, for the models of
their morality, mimic the vices, to which
they were not born, and attempt the coarfe
covering of cunning and infolence for
pradices, which it is a fcience and fre
quently an objed of education to conceal
by flagitious elegancies. Such perfons form
in the country a bad copy of the worft
London fociety ; the vices, without the
intelligence, and without the affuaging
virtues.

DRUIDI-

ENGLAND. 313

DRULDICAL MONUMENT.
A.FTER paffing the very fmall, but
neatly furnifhed church of Threlkeld, the
condition of which may be one teftimony
to the worthinefs of the neighbourhood,
and rifing beyond the vales before defcribed,
we came to the brow of a hill, called Caftle
Rigg, on which, to the left ofthe road, are
the remains of one of thofe circular monu
ments, which, by general content, are called
Druids' Temples. This is formed of thirty-
feven flones, placed in a circle of about
twenty-eight yards diameter, the largeft
being not lefs than feven feet and a half
high, which is double the height of the
others. At the eaftern part of this circle, and
within -it, fmaller flones are arranged in an
oblong

314 ENGLAND.
oblong of about feven yards long, and, at
the greateft breadth, four yards wide. Many
of thofe round the circle appear to have
fallen and now remain at unequal diftances,
of which the greateft is towards the north.
Whether our judgment was influenced
by the authority of a Druid's choice, or
that the place itfelf commanded the opinion,
we thought this fituation the moft feverely
grand of any hitherto paffed. There is,
perhaps, not a fingle objed in the fcene,
that interrupts the folemn tone of feeling,
impreffed by its general charaders of pro
found folitude, greatnefs and awful wild-
nefs. Caftle Rigg is the central point of
three vallies, that dart immediately under
it from the eye, and whofe mountains form
part of an amphitheatre, which is completed
by thofe of Derwentwater, in the weft, and
by the precipices of Skiddaw and Saddle
back, clofe on the north. The hue, which
pervades

ENGLAND. 315
pervades all thefe mountains, is that of dark
heath, or rock ; they are thrown into every
form and diredion, that Fancy would fug-
geft, and are at that diftance, which allows
all their grandeur to prevail ; nearer than
the high lands, that furround Hutton Moor,
¦ and further removed than the fells in the
, fcenery of Ullfwater.
To the fouth open the rocks, that dif-
clofe the vale of St. John, whofe verdant
beauty bears no proportion to its fublimity ;
to the weft, are piled the fluttered and fan
taftic points of Derwentwater ; to the north,
Skiddaw, with its double top, refembling
a volcano, the cloudy vapours afcending
from its higheft point, like fmoke, and
fometimes rolling in wreaths down its fides ;
and to the eaft, the vale of Threlkeld,
fpreading green round the bafe of Saddle
back, its vaft fide-fkreen, opened to the
moorlands, beyond which the ridge of
Crofs-fell

316 ENGLAND.
Crofs-fell appeared ; its dignity now dimi
nifhed by diftance. This point then is fur
rounded by the three grand rivals of Cum
berland ; huge Helvellyn, fpreading Saddle
back and fpiry Skiddaw,
Spch feclufion and fublimity were, in
deed, well fuited to the deep and wild myf-
teries of the Druids, Here, at moon-light,
every Druid, fummoned by that terrible
horn, never awakened but upon high occa-
fions, and defcending from his mountain,
or fecret cave, might affemble without in-
trufion from one facrilegious footftep, and
celebrate a midnight feftiyal by a favage
facrifice —
— - - - " rites of fuch ftrange potency
As,r done in open day, would dim the fun,
Tho' thron'd in noontide brightpefs." Caractacus. Here,

ENGLAND. 317
Here, too, the Bards,
" Rob'd in their flowing vefts of innocent white,
Defcend, with harps, that glitter to the moon,
Hymning immortal ftrains. The fpirits of air,
Of earth, of water, nay of heav'n itfelf,
Do liften to their lay ; and oft, 'tis faid,
In vifible fhapes, dance they a magic round
To the high minftrelfy."
As we defcended the fteep mountain to
Kefwick, the romantic fells round the lake
opened finely, but the lake itfelf was con
cealed, deep in its rocky cauldron. We faw
them under the laft glow of fun-fet, the
upward rays producing a mifty purple glory
between the dark tops of Cawfey-pikes and
the bending peaks of Thornthwaite fells.
Soon after, the fun having fet to the vale
pf Kefwick, there appeared, beyond breaks
in its weftern mountains, the rocks of other
vallies, ftill lighted up by a purple gleam, and

3i8 ENGLAND.
and receiving ftrong rays on fhaggy points^
to which their receffes gave foft and fhadowy
contraft. But the magical effed of thefe"
funfhine rocks, oppofed to the darknefs of
the nearer valley, can fcarcely be imagined;
Still as we defcended, the lake of Der-
wentwater was fcreened from our view;
but the rich level of three miles wide; that
fpreads between it and Baffenthwaite-Watef
in the fame vale, lay, like a map, beneath
us, chequered with groves and cottages,
with enclofures of corn pnd meadows, and
adorned by the pretty village of Crofs-
thwaite, its neat white church confpicuou^
among trees. The fantaftic fells • of Der-
wentwater bordered this repofing landfcape,
on the weft, and the mighty Skiddaw rofe
over it, on the eaft, concealing the lake of
Baffenthwaite. The hollow dafhings of the -Greta, in its
rocky channel, at the foot of Skiddaw, and in

ENGLAND. 319
in one of the moft wizard little glens that
nature ever fancied, were heard long before
we looked down its fteep woody bank, and
faw it winding away, from clofe inacceffible
chafins, to the vale of Kefwick, corn and
meadows fpread at the top of the left bank,
and the crags of Skiddaw fcowiing over it,
on the right.
At length, we had a glimpfe of the
north end of Derwentwater, and foon after
entered Kefwick, a fmall place of ftone
houfes, lying at the foot of Caftle Rigg,
near Skiddaw, and about a quarter of a mile
from the lake, which, however, is not feen
from the town.
We were impatient to view this cele
brated lake, and immediately walked down
to Crow-park, a green eminence at its
northern end, whence it is generally allow
ed to appear to great advantage. Expeda-
tion had been raifed too high : Shall we
own

32o ENGLAND.
own our difappointment ? Prepared for
fomething more than we had already feen,
by what has been fo eloquently faid of it,
by the view of its vaft neighbourhood and
the grandeur of its approach, the lake itfelf
looked infignificant ; and, however rude, or
awful, its nearer rocks might have appeared,
if feen unexpededly, they were not in ge
neral fo vaft, or fo boldly outlined, as to
retain a charader of fublimity from com-
parifon. Oppofed to the fimple majefty of
Ullfwater, the lake of Derwent was fcarcely
interefting. Something muft, indeed, be
attributed to the force of firft impreffions ;
but, with all allowance for this, Ullfwater
muft ftill retain an high pre-eminence for
grandeur and fublimity.
Derwentwater, however, when more mi
nutely viewed, has peculiar charms both
from beauty and wildnefs, and as the emo
tions, excited by difappointed expedation, began

ENGLAND. 32I
£an to fubfide, we became fenfible of
them. It feems to be nearly of a round
form, and the whole is feen at one glance,
expanding within an amphitheatre of moun
tains, rocky, but not vaft, broken into many
fantaftic fhapes, peaked, fplintered, impend
ing, fometimes pyramidal, opening by nar
row vallies to the view of rocks, that rife
immediately beyond and are again over
looked by others. The precipices feldom
overfhoot the water, but are arranged at
fome diftance, and the fhores fwell with
woody eminences, or fink into green, paf-
toral margins. Maffes of wood alfo fre
quently appear among the cliffs, feathering
them to their fummits, and a white cottage
fometimes peeps from out their fkirts, feated
on the fmooth knoll of a pafture, projeding
to the lake, and looks fo exquifitely pidu
refque, as to feem placed there purpofely to
adorn it. The lake in return faithfully
vol. ii. Y refleds

322 ENGLAND.
refleds the whole pidure, and fo even and
brilliantly tranflucent is its furface, that it
rather heightens, than obfcures the colour
ing. Its mild bofom is fpotted by four
fmall iflands, of which thofe called Lords'.
and St. Herbert's are well wooded, and
adorn the fcene, but another is deformed by
buildings, ftuck over it, like figures upon a
twelfth-cake. Beyond the head of the lake, and at a
dired diftance of three or four miles from
Crow-park, the pafs of Borrowdale opens,
guarded by two piles of rock, the boldeft iu
the fcene, overlooked by many rocky points,
and, beyond all, by rude mountain tops
which come partially and in glimpfes to the
view. Among the moft ftriking features
of the eaftern fhore are the wOody cliffs of
Lowdore; then, nearer to the eye, Walr
low-crags, a title ufed here as well as at
Hawfwater, of dark brown rock, loofely
impending ;

ENGLAND* 323
impending ; nearer ftill, Caftle-hill, pyra
midal and richly wooded to its point, the
moft luxuriant feature of the landfcape.
Gawfey-pike, one of the moft remarkable
rocks of the weftern fhore, has its ridge,
fcoltoped into points as if with a row of
corbells. The cultivated vale of Newland flopes
upward from the lake between thefe and
Thornthwaite fells. Northward, beyond
Crowpark, rifes Skiddaw ; at its bafe com
mences the beautiful level, that fpreads to
Baffenthwaite water, where the rocks in the
Weft fide of the perfpedive foon begin to
foften, and the vale becomes open and
cheerful. Such is the outline of Derwentwater,
which has a much greater proportion of
beauty, than Ullfwater, but neither its dig- '
nity, nor grandeur. Its fells, broken into
fmaller maffes, do not fwell, or ftart, into
Y 2 fuch

324 ENGLAND.
fuch bold lines as thofe of Ullfwater ; not
does the fize of the lake accord with the
general importance of the rocky vale, in
which it lies. The water is too fmall for
its accompaniments ; and its form, being
round and feen entirely at once, leaves no
thing for expedation to purine, beyond the
ftretching promontory, or fancy to trans--
form within the gloom and obfcurity of the
receding fell ; and thus it lofes an ample
fource of the fublime. The greateft breadth
from eaft to weft is riot more than three
miles. It is not large enough to occupy
the eye, and it is not fo hidden as to have
the affi fiance of the imagination in making
it appear large. The beauty of its banks
alfo, contending with the wildnefs of its
rocks, gives oppofite imprefflbns tp the
mind,, and the force of each is,- perhaps,
-deftroyed by the admiffion of the other-
Sublimity can fcarcely exift, without fim-
6 pHcity j

ENGLAND. 325
plicity; and even grandeur lofes much of
its elevating effed, when united with a
confiderable portion of beauty ; then de
fcending to become magnificence. The
effed of fimplicity in affifting that high,
tone of mind, produced by the fublime, is
demonftrated by the fcenery of Ullfwater,
where very feldom a difcordant objed ob
trudes over the courfe of thought, and jars
upon the feelings.
But it is much pleafanter to admire than
to examine, and in Derwentwater is abun
dant fubjed for admiration, though not of
fo high a charader as that, which attends
Ullfwater. The foft undulations of its
fhores, the mingled wood and pafture, that
paint them, the brilliant purity of the water,
that gives back every landfcape on its bank,
and frequently with heightened colouring,
the fantaftic wildnefs of the rocks and the
magnificence of the amphitheatre they
Y 3 form j

326 ENGLAND.
form ; thefe are circumftances, the view of
which excites emotions of fweet, though
tranquil admiration, foft ening the mind to
tendernefs, rather than elevating it to fub
limity. We firft faw the whole beneath
fuch" fober hues as prevailed when
" the gray hooded Even,
Like a fad votarift, in Palmer's weed,
Rofe from the hindmoft wheels of Phcebus'
wain,"
The wildnefs, feclufion, and magical
beauty of this vale, feem, indeed, to render
it the very abode for Milton's Cpmus,
" deep fkilled in all his mother's witcheries;"
and, while we furvey its fantaftic features,
we are almoft tempted to fuppofe, that he
has hurled his
(e dazzling fpells into the air,
Of power to cheat the eye with blear illufion
And give it falfe preferments."
Nay

ENGLAND. 327
Nay more, to believe
" All the fage poets, taught by th' heavenly mufe.
Storied of old, in high immortal verfe.
Of dire chimaeras and enchanted ifles ;"
and to fancy we hear from among the
woody cliffs, near the fhore,
" the found
Of riot and ill manag'd merriment,"
fucceeded by fuch ftrains as oft
" in pleafing flumbers lull the fenfe,
And. in fweet madnefs, rob it of itfelf."

y 4 SKIDDAW.

328 ENGLAND.

SKIDDAW.

On the following morning, having
engaged a guide, and with horfes accuf
tomed to the labour, we began to afcend
this tremendous mountain by a way, which
makes the fummit five miles from Kefwick.
Paffing through bowery lanes, luxuriant
with mountain afh, holly, and a variety of
beautiful fhrubs, to a broad, open common,
a road led us to the foot of Latrigg, or, as
it is called by the country people, Skiddaw 's
Cub, a large round hill, covered with heath,
turf and browfmg fheep. A narrow path
now wound along fteep green precipices,
the beauty of which prevented what danger
there was from being perceived. , Derwent-
water was concealed by others, that rofe
above

ENGLAND. 329
above them, but that part of the vale of
Kefwick, which feparates the two lakes, and
fpreads a rich level of three miles, was im
mediately below ; Croffthwaite-church, near
ly in the centre, with the white vicarage,
rifing among trees. More under fhelter of
Skiddaw, where the vale fpreads into a fweet
retired nook, lay the houfe and grounds of
Dr. Brownrigg.
Beyond the level, operied a glimpfe of
Baffenthwait^Pater ; a lake, which may be
called elegant, bounded, on one fide, by
well-wooded rocks, and, on the other, by
Skiddaw. Soon after, we rofe above the fleeps,
which had concealed Derwentwater, and it
appeared, with all its enamelled banks, funk
deep amidft a chaos of mountains, and fur
rounded by ranges of fells, not vifible from
below. On the other hand, the more cheer
ful lake of Baffenthwaite expanded at its
entire

330 ENGLAND.
entire length. Having gazed a while on
this magnificent fcene, we purfued the path,
and foon after reached the brink ofa chafm,
on the oppofite fide of which wound our
future track ; for the afcent is here in an
acutely zig-zag diredion. The horfes care
fully picked their flepa along the narrow
precipice, and turned the angle, that led
them to the oppofite fide
At length, as we afcended^^erwentwater
dwindled on the eye to thelmallnefs of a
pond, while the grandeur of its amphithea
tre was increafed by new ranges of dark
mountains, no longer individually great, but
fo from accumulation ; a fcenery to give
ideas of the breaking up of a world. Other
precipices foon hid it again, but Baffen-
thwaite continued to fpread immediately be
low us, till we turned into the heart of
Skiddaw, and were enclofed by its fteeps.
We had now loft all track even of the
flocks,

ENGLAND. 331
Bocks, that were fcattered over thefe tre
mendous wilds-. The guide conduded us
by many curvings among the heathy hills
and hollows of the mountain ; but the af-
eents were fuch, that the horfes panted in
the floweft walk, and it was neceffary to
let them reft every fix or feven minutes.
An opening to the fouth, at length, fhewed
the whole plan of the narrow vales of St.
John and of Nadale, feparated by the dark
ridge of rock, called St. John's- rigg, with
each its fmall line of verdure at the bottom,
and bounded by enormous gray fells, which
we were, however, now high enough to
overlook. A white fpeck, on the top of St. John's
rigg, was pointed out by' the guide to be a
chapel of eafe to Kefwick, which has no
lefs than five fuch, fcattered among the fells.
From this chapel, dedicated to St. John, the
jock and the vale have received their name, and

332 ENGLAND.
and our guide told us, that Nadale was fre-e
quently known by the fame title.
Leaving this view, the mountain fopn
again fhut out all profped, but of its own
vallies and precipices, .covered with various
fhades of turf and mofs, and with heath, of
which a dull purple was the prevailing hue.
Not a tree, or bufh appeared on Skiddaw,
nor even a ftone wall any where broke the
fimple greatnefs of its lines. Sometimes,
we looked into tremendous chafms, where
the torrent, heard roaring long before it
was feen, had worked itfelf a deep channel,
and fell from ledge to ledge, foaming and
fhining amidft the dark rock. Thefe ftreams
are fublime from the length and precipi
tancy of their courfe, which, hurrying the
fight with them into the abyfs, ad, as it
were, in fympathy upon the nerves, and,
to fave ourfelves from following, we recoil
from the view with , involuntary horror. Of

ENGLAND. 33$
Of fuch, however, we faw only two, and
thofe by fome departure from the ufual
courfe up the mountain ; but every where
met gufhing fprings, till we were within
two miles of the fummit, when our guide
added to the rum in his bottle what he faid
was the laft water we fhould find in our
afcent. The air now became very thin, and the
fteeps flilf more difficult of afcent ; but it
was often delightful to look down into
the green hollows of the mountain, among
paftoral fcenes, that Wanted only fome mix
ture of wood to render them enchanting.
About a mile from the fummit, the way
was, indeed, dreadfully fublime, laying, for
nearly half a mile, along the ledge of a
precipice, that paffed, with a fwift defcenf,
for probably near a mile, into a glen within
the heart of Skiddaw ; and not a bufh, or a
hillock interrupted its vaft length, or, by
offering

334^ ENGLAND.-
>
offering a midway check in the defcent^
diminifhed the fear it infpired. The ridgy
fteeps of Saddleback formed the oppofite
boundary of the glen, and, though really
at a confiderable diftance, had, from the
height of the two mountains, fuch an ap
pearance of nearnefs, that it almoft feemed
as if we could fpring to its fide. How
much too did fimplicity increafe the fub
lime of this fcenery, in which nothing but
mountain, heath and fky appeared !
But our fituation was too critical, or too
unUfual, to permit the juft impreffions of
fuch fublimity, The hill rofe fo clofely
above the precipice as fcarcely to allow a
ledge wide enough for a fingle horfe. We
•> followed the guide in filence, and, till we
regained the more open wild, had no leifure
for exclamation. After this, the afcent ap
peared eafy and fecure, and we were bold
enough to wonder, that the fteeps near the
beginning

ENGLAND.^ 33S
beginning of the mountain had excited any
anxiety. At length, paffing the fkirts of the two
points of Skiddaw, which are neareft to
Derwentwater, we approached the third and
loftieft, and then perceived, that their fteep
fides, together with the ridges, which con
ned them, were entirely covered^iear the
fummits with a whitifh fhivered flate, which
threatens to Aide down them with every
guft of wind. The broken ftate of this
flate makes the prefent fummits feem like
the ruins of others ; a circumftance as ex
traordinary in appearance as difficult to be
accounted for.
The ridge, on which we paffed from
the neighbourhood of the fecond fummit to
the third, was narrow, and the eye reached,
on each fide, down the whole extent of
the mountain, following, on^the left, the
rocky precipices, that impend over the Jake of

336 * ENGLAND.
of Baffenthwaite, and looking, on the right,
into the glens of Saddleback, far, far below.
But the profpeds, that burft upon us from
every part of the vaft horizon, when we
had gained the fummit, were fuch as we
had fcarcely dared to hope for, and muft
now rather venture to enumerate, than to
defcribe^ We flood on a pinnacle, commanding
the whole dome of the fky. The pro
fpeds below, each of which had been be
fore confidered feparately as a great fcene,
were now miniature parts of the immenfe
landfcape. To the north, lay, like a map,
, the vaft trad of low country, which extends
between Baffenthwaite and the Irifh Chan
nel, marked with the filver circles of the
river Derwent, in its progrefs from the
lake. Whitehaven and its white coaft were
diftindly feen, and Cockermouth feemed
almoft under the eye. A long blackifh line,

ENGLAND; 337
line, more to the weft, refemblirig a faintly
formed cloud, was faid by the guide to be
the Ifle of Man, who/ however, had the
honefty to ccnfefs, that the mountains of
Down in Ireland, which have been fome
times thought vifible, had never been feen
by him in the cleareft weather.
Bounding the low country to the north,
the wide Sol way Firth, with its indented
fhores, looked like a gray horizon, and the
double range of Seottifh mountains, feen
dimly through mift beyond, like lines of
dark clouds above it. The Solway appear
ed furprifingly near us, though at fifty miles
diftance, and the guide faid, that, on a
bright day, its fhipping could plainly be
difcerned. Nearly in the north, the heights
feemed to foften into plains, for no objed
Was there vifible through the obfcurity; that
had begun to draw over the furtheft dif
tance ; but, towards the eaft, they appeared
vol. 11. Z to

33S ENGLAND.
to fwell again, and what we were told
were the Cheviot hills dawned feebly be
yond Northumberland. We now fpanned,
the narroweft part of England, looking from'
the Irifh Channel, on one fide, to the Ger
man Ocean, on the other, which latter was,
however, fo far off as to be difcernible only
like a mift.
• Nearer than the county of Durham,
ftretched the ridge of Crofs-fell, and an in-
diftind multitude of the Weftmoreland and
Yorkfhire highlands, whofe lines difappear
ed behind Saddleback, now evidently pre
eminent over Skiddaw, fo much fo as to
exclude many a height beyond it. Paffing
this mountain in our courfe to the fouth,
we faw, immediately below, the fells round
Derwentwater, the lake itfelf remaining
ftill concealed in their deep rdcky bofom.
Southward and weft Ward, the whole pro
fped was a " turbulent chaos of dark moun tains."

ENGLAND. 539
tains." All individual dignity was now
loft in the ¦ immenfity of the wh<%, and
every variety of charader Was overpowered
by that of aftonifhing and gloomy gran
deur. Over the fells of Borrowdale, and far to
the fouth, the northern end of Windermere
appeared, like a wreath of gray finoke, that
fpreaids along the mountain's fide. More
fouthward ftill, and beyond all the fells of
the lakes, , Lancafter fands extended to the
faintly feen waters ofthe fea. Then to the
weft, Duddon fands gleamed in a long line
among the fells of High Furnefs. Imme
diately under the eye, lay Baffenthwaite,
furrounded by many ranges of mountains,
in vifible from below. We overlooked all
thefe dark mountains^ and faw green culti
vated vales over the tops of lofty rocks, and
other mountains over thefe vales in many
ridges, whilft innumerable narrow glens
Z 2 were

34o ENGLAND.
were traced in all their windings and feen
uniting»behind the hills with others, that
alfo floped upwards from the lake.
The air on this fummit' was boifterous,
intenfely cold arid difficult to be infpired,,
though the day was below warm arid ferene.
It was dreadful to look down from nearly !
the brink of the point, on which wre ftood,
upon the lake of Baffenthwaite and over a
fharp and feparated ridge of rocks, that
from below appeared or tremendous height,
but now feemed not to reach half way up
Skiddaw ; it was almoft as if
" the precipitation might down ftretch
Below the beam of fight,"
Under the lee of an heaped up pile of
flates, formed by the cuftomary contribution
of one from every vifitor, we found an old
man fheltered, whom, we took to be a fhep- herd,

ENGLAND. 341
herd, but afterwards learned was a farmer
and, as the people in this neighbourhood
fay, a ' ftatefman ;' that is, had land of his
own. He was a native and ftill an inha
bitant of an adjoining vale; but, fo labori
ous is the enterprife reckoned, that, though
he had paffed his life within view of the
mountain, this was his firft afcent. He de
scended with us, for part of our way, and
then wound off towards his own valley,
ftalking amidft the wild fcenery, his large
^figure wrapt in a dark cloak and his fteps
occafionally affifted by a long iron pronged
pike, with which he had pointed out diftant
objeds. In the defcent, it was interefting to ob-
ferve each mountain below gradually re-
affuming its dignity, the two lakes expand
ing into fpacious furfaces, the many little
.vallies, that floped upwards from their mar
gins, recovering their variegated tints of
Z 3 cultivation,

342 ENGLAND.
cultivation, the cattle again appearing in
the meadows, and the woody promontories'
changing from fmooth patches of fhade into
richly tufted furiimits. At about a mile
from the top, a great difference was per
ceptible in the climate, which became comr
paratively warm, and the fummer hum of
bees was again heard aniprig the purple
heath. We reached Kefwick, abppt four o'clock,
after five hours paffed in this excurfion, in
which the care of our guide greatly leffened
the notion of danger. Why fhould we
think it trivial to attempt fome fervice to
wards this poor man ? We have reafbn tp
think, that whoever employs, at Kefwick, a
guide of the name of Doncafter, will affift
him in fupporting an aged parent.

BASSEN-

ENGLAND. 343

BASSENTHWAITE WATER.
In a gray autumnal morning, we
rode out along the weftern bank of Baffen
thwaite to Oufe Bridge, under which the
river Derwent, after paffing through the
lake, takes its courfe towards the Sea. The
road on this fide, being impaflable by car
riages, is feldom vifited, but it is interefting
for being oppofed to Skiddaw, which rifes
in new attitudes over the oppofite bank.
Beyond the land, that feparates the two
lakes, the road runs high along the fides
of hills and fometimes at the feet of tre?
mendous fells, one of which rifes almoft
fpirally over it, fhewing a furface of flates,
fhivered from top to bottom. Further on,
the heights gradually foften from horror
Z 4 into

344 ENGLAND,
into mild and graceful beauty, opening dis
tantly to the cheerful country, that fpreads
towards, Whitehaven ;_, but the road toon
jmmerges among woods, which allow only
partial views of the oppofite fhore, inimita
bly beautiful withlf copfes, ^greep lawns and
,paftures, with gently fweeping promontories
and bays, that receive the lake to their full
fibrims, $ From the houfe , at Oufe Bridge the pro-.
jfped. is t exquifite up the lake, which now
lofing the air of a wide (river, re-affumeg
its true charader, and even appears to flow
into the chafrn of rocks, that really inclofe
' Derwentwater. Skiddaw, with all the moun*
tains^- round Borrowdale, form a magnifi
cent amphitheatrical perfpedive for this -no-*
ble flieet of water; the vallies t of the two
lakes extending .to 'one view, which is,
therefore, fuperior to any exhibited from
Derwentwater alone, The profped. -termi nates.

ENGLAND. 345
nates in the dark fells of Borrowdale, which
by their^fublimity enhance the beauty4 and
elegance, united to a furprifing degree in
the nearer landfcape. -
' Beyond Oufe Bridge^ but ftill at the bbt-
; torn of the lake, the road paffes before Ar-
mithwaite-houfe, whofe copfy lawns flope
to the margin of the* water from a manfion
more finely fituated than any we had feen.
It then3 recedes fomewhat from the ; bank,
and afcends the fkirt of Skiddaw, which "ut
fcarcely leaves on this fide of Kefwick. *i On
'the oppofite fhore, the moft elegant features
are the fwelling hills, called Wythop-brows,
flourifhing with *wood from-; the water's
edge; and, below the meadows of the eaft
ern bank, by which we were returning, two
peninfula*, the one paftoral, yet well wood
ed and embellifhed by a white hamlet, the
pther narrow and bearing \ only a line :of
trees, iffuing far into the lake. But the
fhores

346 ENGLAND.
fhores of Baffenthwaite, though elegant and-
often beautiful, are too little.. varied to be
long dwelt upon ;< and attention is fome
times unpleafantly engaged by a precipice,
from which the road is not fufficiently fe
cured ; fo that the effed of the whole
upon the imagination is much lefs than
might be expeded from its fituation at
tbe foot, of Skiddaw, and its fhape, which
is more extended than that of Derwent
water.

BORROW-

ENGLAND. 347

BORROWDALE.
--. A serene day, with gleams of fun-
thine, gave magical effed to the fcenery of
PerwTentwater, as we wound along its eaft
ern fhore. to Borrowdale, under cliffs, parts
pf which, already fallen near the: road, in
creafed the opinion of danger from the reft;
fometimes near the edge of precipices, that
bend over the water, and, at others, among
pleafure-gtounds and copfes, which admit
partial views over the lake. Thefe, with
every woody promontory and mountain,
Were perfedly refleded on its furface. Not
a path- way, not a crag, or fear, that fculp-
tured their bold fronts, but was copied and
diftindly feen even from the oppofite fhore
in the dark purple mirror below. Now and

548 E N G LAND.
and then, a pleafure-boat glided by, leaving
"long filver lines,, ; drawn itp, a point on the
fmooth water, which, as it gave back, the
painted fides and gleaming fail, difplayed a
moving pidure.
The colouring of the mountains was, this
day, furprifingly various and changeful, fur-
paffing every thing of the fame nature, that
we had feen. The effed: of the atmo-
fphere on mountainous regions is fometimes
fb fublime, at others fo enchantingly beauti
ful, that the mention of it ought not to-be
confidered as trivial, when their afped is to
be defcribed. As the fun-beams fell op
different kinds of rock, and diftance colour
ed the air, fome parts were touched with
lilac, others with light blue, dark purple,
or reddifh brown, which were often feen,
at the fame moment, contrafting with the
mellow green ofthe woods and, the bright
nefs of funfhine; then^ Jlpwly and almoft
^ :> imperceptibly

ENGLAND. 34$
imperceptibly changing into' "other tints.
Skiddaw itfelf exhibited much of this- va
riety, during. our ride. As we left Kef
wick, its points were overfpread with pale
azure ; on our return, a tint of dark blue
foftened its features* which were, however,
foon after involved in deepeft purple.
Winding under the woods of Barrowfide,
we approached Lowdore, and heard the
thunder of his catarad, joined by the founds
of others, defcending within the gloom of
the nearer rocks and thickets. The retro-
fpedive views over the lake from Barrow
fide are the fineft in the ride; and, when
the toad emerges from the woods, a range
of rocks rifes over it, where mariy fhrubs,
and even oaks, afh, yevv, grow in a fur-
prifing manner among the broken flates,
that cover their fides. Beyond, at fome
diftariee from the fhore, appear the awful
rocks, that rife over the fall' of Lowdore ;
that

350 ENGLAND.
that on the right fhooting up, a vaft pyra
mid of; naked cliff, above finely wooded
fteeps; while, onthe oppofite fide of the
chafm, that receives the waters, impends
Gowdar- crag, whofe trees , and fhrubs give
only ihagginefs to its terrible maffes, with
fragments of which the meadows below are
ftrewn. There was now little water at
Lowdore ; but the breadth of its channel
and the height of the perpendicular rock,
from which it leaps, told how tremendous
it could be ; yet even then its fublimity is
probably derived chiefly from the cliff and
mountain, that tower clofely over it.
Here Borrowdale begins, its rocks fpread
ing in a vaft fweep round the head of the
lake, at the diftance, perhaps, of half a mile
from the fhore, which bears; meadow land
to the water's brink. The afped of thefe.
rocks, with; the fragments, that have rolled
from their fummits, and lie. on> e^ch fide of
the

ENGLAND. 35i
the road, prepared us for the fcene of tre
mendous ruin we were approaching in the
gorge* or pafs of Borrowdale, which opens
from the centre of the amphitheatre, that
binds the head of Derwentwater. Dark
rocks yawn at its entrance, terrific as the
wildnefs of a maniac ; and . difclofe a nar
row pafs, running up between mountains of
granite, that are fhook into almoft every
poffible form of horror. All above refem
bles the accumulations of an earthquake ;
fplintered, fhivered, piled, amaffed. Huge
cliffs have rolled down into the glen below,
where, however, is ftill a miniature of the
fweeteft paftoral beauty, on the banks of
the river Derwent ; but defcription cannot
paint either the wildnefs of the mountains,
or the paftoral and fylvan peace and foft-
nefs, that, wind at their bafe.
Among the moft ftriking of the fells are
Glaramara, fhewing rock on rock; and
Eagle-

352 ENGLAND.
Eagle-crag, where, till lately, that bird built
its neft ; but the depredations, annually
committed on its young, have driven it
from the place. Hence we purfued the pafs
for a mile, over a frightful road, that climbst
among the crags of a precipice above the
river, having frequently glimpfes into glens
and chafms, where all paffage feemed to be
obftruded by the fallen fhivers of rock,
and at length reached the gigantic ftone of
Bowther, that appears to have been pitched
into the ground from the fummit of a
neighbouring fell, and is fhaped, like the
roqf of a houfe reverted.
This is one ofthe fpedacles of the coun
try. Its fize makes it impoffible to have
been ever moved by human means ; and,
if it fell from the neareft of the rocks, it
muft have rolled upon the ground much
further than can be readily conceived of the
motion of fuch a mats. The fide towards the

ENGLAND". 3S3
the road projeds about twelve feet over the
bafe, and fierves to fhelter cattle in a penn,
of which it is made to form one boundary.
A fmall oak plant arid a floe have found foil
enough to flourifh in at the top ; and the
bate1 is . pitched on a cliff over the river,
whence a long perfpedive of the gorge is
feen, with a little level of bright verdure,
fpreading among more diftant fells and
winding away into tracklefs regions, where
the mountains lift their ruffian heads in un-
difputed authority. Below, the fhrunk
Der-Went ferpentized alorig a wide bed of
pebbles, that marked its wintry courfe, and
left a wooded ifland, flourifhing amidft the
wafte. The flillnefs around us was only
feebly broken by the remote founds of
many unfeen catarads, and fometimes by
the voices of mountaineer children, fhout-
ing afar off, and pleafing themfelves with
roufing the echoes of the rocks.
VOL. ii. A a la.

354 ENGLAND.
In returning, the view opened, with great
magnificence, from the jaws of this _pafs
over the lake to Skiddaw, then feen from
its bafe, with the upper fteeps of Saddle
back obliquely beyond, and rearing itfelf far
above all the heights of the eaftern fhore.
At the entrance of the gorge, the village
or hamlet of Grange lies pidurefquely on
the bartk of the Derwent among wood and
meadows, and fheltered under the ruinous
fell, called Caftlecrag, that takes its name
from the caftle, or fortrefs, which from its
crown once guarded this important pafs,
Borrowdale abounds in valuable mines,
among which fome are known to fupply
the fineft wadd, or black lead, to be found
in England. Iron, flate, and free ftone of
various kinds, are alfo the, treafures of thefe
mountains.

FROM

ENGLAND. 355

"¦ FROM KESWICK TO WINDERMERE.
JL he road from Kefwick to Amble-
fide commences • by the afcent of Gaftle-
rigg, the mountain, which the Penrith road
defcends, and which, on that fide, is crown-
ed by a Druid's temple. The rife is now
Very laborious, but the views it affords over
the vale of Kefwick are not dearly pur
chafed by the fatigue. All Baffenthwaite,
its mountains foftening away in the per
fpedive, and < terminating, on the weft, in
thefifter woods of Wy thorp-brows,, extends
from the1 eye ; and, immediately beneath,
the northern end of Derwentwater, with
Cawfey-pike, Thornthwaite-fell, the rich
upland vale of Newland peeping from be
tween their bates, and the fpiry woods of
A a 2 Foepark

355 ENGLAND.
Foepark jutting into tbe lake below. But
the fineft profped is from a gate about half
way up the hill, whence you look down
upon the head of Derwentwater, with all
the alps of Borrowdale, opening darkly.
After defcending Caftle-rigg and croffing
the top of St. John's vale, we feemed as
if going into banifhment from fociety, the
road then leading over a plain, clofely fur
rounded by mountains fo wild, that neither
a cottage, or a wood foften their rudenefs,
and fo fteep and barren j that not even fheep
appear upon their fides. From this plain
the road enters Legberthwaite, a narrow
valley, running at the back of Borrowdale,
green at the bottom, and varied with a -
few farms, but without wood, and with
fells of gray precipices, rifing to great height '
and nearly perpendicular on either hand,
whofe fronts are marked only by the tor
rents, that tumble from their utmoft fummits,

ENGLAND. 357
mits, and perpetually occur. We often
flopped to liften to their hollow founds
amidft the folitary greatnefs of the fcene,
and to watch their headlong fall down the
rockv chafms, their white foam and filver
line contrafting with the dark hue of the
clefts. In fublimity of defcent thefe were
frequently much fuperior to that of Low
dore, but as much inferior to it in mats' of
water and pidurefque beauty.
As the road afcended towards Helvellyn,
we looked back through this vaft rocky
vifta to the fweet vale of St. John, length
ening the perfpedive, and faw, as through
a tetefcope, the broad broken fteeps of Sad
dleback and the points of Skiddaw, darkly
blue, clofing it to the north. The grand
rivals of Cumberland were now feen. toge
ther ; and the road, foon winding high
over the fkirts of Helvellyn, brought us to
Leathes.- water, to which the mountain forms
A a 3 a vaft

358 ENGLAND.
a vaft fide-fkreen, during its whole length.
This ' is a long, but narrow and unadorned
lake, having little elte than walls of rocky
fells, ftarting from its margin. Continuing'
on the precipice, at fome height from the
fhore, the road brought us, after three miles,
to the poor village of Wythburn, and foon
after to the foot of Dunmail Rays, which,
though a confiderable afcent, forms the dip
of two lofty mountains, Steel-fell and Seat
Sandle, that -rife with firiely-fweeping lines,
on each fide, and fhut up the vale.
Beyond Dunmail Rays, one of the grand
partes from Cumberland into Weftmoreland,
Helm-crag rears its creft, a ftrarige fantaftic
fummit, round, yet jagged and fpliritered,
like the wheel of a water-mill, overlooking
Grafmere, which, foon after, opened below.
A green fpreading circle of mountains em-
bofoms this fmall lake, and, beyond, a wider
range rifes in amphitheatre, whofe rocky tops

ENGLAND. 359
tops are rounded and. fcolloped, yet are
great, wild, irregular, and were then over
fpread with a tint of faint purple. The~
fofteft verdure margins the water, and min
gles with corn enclofures and woods, .that
wave up the hills; but fcarcely a cottage
any where appears, except at the northern
end of the lake, where the village of Graf-
mere and its very neat white church fland
among trees, near the fhore, with Helm-
crag and a multitude of fells, rifing over
it and beyond each other in the perfpec-
tive. The lake was clear ¦ as glafs, refleding
the headlong mountains, with every feature
of every image on its tranquil banks ; and
one green ifland varies^ but fcarcely adorns
its furface, bearing only a rude and now
ftiadelefs hut. At a confiderable height
above the water, the road undulates for a
mile, till, neat the fouthern end of Graf-
A a 4 mere,

36o * ENGLAND.
mere, it mounts the crags of a fell, and
feemed carrying us*again into fuch fcenes
of ruin and privation as." we - had quitted
¦N
. with Legberthwaite and Leathes- water.
But, defcending the other fide of the
mountain, we were foon cheered by the
view of plantations, enriching the banks of
Rydal-water, and by thick woods, min
gling among cliffs above the narrow lake,
, which winds .through a clofe valley, for
about a mile. This lake is remarkable for
the beauty of its fmall round iflands, luxu
riant with elegant trees and fhrubs, and
whofe banks are green to the water's edge.
Rydal-hall flands finely on an eminence,
fomewhat withdrawn from the eaft end, in
a clofe romantic nook, among old woods
that feather the fells, which rife over their
fummits, and fpread widely along the
neighbouring eminences. This antient white
manfion looks over a- rough graffy defcent,
fcreened

ENGLAND. 361
fcreened by groves of oak and majeftic
planes, towards the head of Windermere,
about two miles diftant, a fmall glimpfe of
which is caught beyond the wooded fteeps
of a narrow valley. In the woods and in
the difpofition of the ground round Ry-
dal-hall there is a charming wildnefs, that
fuits the charader of the general fcene;
and, wherever art appears, it is. with grace
ful plainnefs and meek fubjedion to na
ture. The tafte, by which a cafcade in the
pleafure-grounds, pouring under the arch
of a rude bridge, amidft the green tint of
woods, is fhewn through a darkened gar
den- houfe, and, therefore, with all the effed,
which the oppofition of light and fhade can
give, is even not too artificial ; fo admirably
is the intent accomplifhed of making all the
light, that is admitted, fall upon the objeds,
which are chiefly meant to be obferved. The

36z ENGLAND.
The road to Amblefide runs through the
valley in front of Rydal-hall, and for fome
diftance among the grounds that belong to
it, where, again the tafle of the owner is
Confpicuous in the difpofition of plantations
among paftures of extraordinary richnefs,
and where pure rivulets are fuffered to
wind without reftraint over their dark rocky
channels. Woods mantle up the cliffs on
either fide of this fweet valley, and, higher
ftill, the craggy fummits of the fells crowd
over the fcene. Two miles among its
pleafant fhades, near the banks of the mur-»
muring Rotha, brought us to Amblefide,
a black arid very antient little town, hang
ing on the lower fteeps of a mountain,
where the vale opens to the head of

WINDER-

England. 363

WINDERMERE,
Which appeared at fome diftance
below, in gentle yet ftately beauty ; but its
boundaries fhewed nothing of the fublimity
and little of the romantic wildnefs, that
charms, or elevates in the fcenery of the
bther lakes! The fhores, and the hills,
which gradually afcend from them, are in
general richly cultivated, or wooded, and
corredly elegant ; and when we defcended
upon the bank the road feemed leading
through the artificial fhades of pleafure-
grounds. It undulates for two. miles over
low promontories and along fpacious bays,
full to their fringed margin with the abun
dance of this expanfive lake ; then, quitting
the bank, it afcends gradual eminences, that
look

364 ENGLAND.
look upon the vaft plain of water, and rife
amidft the richeft landfcapes. of its fhores.
The manners of^ the people would have
fuffiCiently inforrned us that Windermere,
is the lake moft frequented ; and with the
great fublimity of the more, fequeftered
fcenes, we had to regret the interefting
fimplicity of their inhabitants, a fimplicity
which accdrdedfo beautifully with the dig
nified charader of the country. The next
day, we vifited feveral of the neighbouring
heights, whence the lake is feen to great
advantage; and, onthe following, fkirted
the eaftern fhore for fix miles to the
Ferry. Windermere, above twelve miles long
and generally above a mile broad, but fome
times two, fweeps like a majeftic river with
an -eafy bend between low points of land
and eminences that, fhaded with wood and
often embellifhed with villas, fwell into hills
cultivated

England! 365
cultivated to their fummits ; except that, for
about fix miles along the middle of the weft
ern fhore, a range of rocky fells rife over
the water. But thefe have nothing' either
pidurefque or fantaftic in their fhape ; they
are heavy, not broken into parts, and their
rudenefs foftens into infignificance, when
they are- feen over the wide channel of the
lake ; they are neither large enough to be
grand, or wooded enough to be beautiful.
To the north, or head of Windermere,
however, the tamenefs of its general cha
rader difappears, and the fcene foars into
grandeur. Here, over a ridge of rough
brown hills above a woody fhore, rife, at
the diftance of a mile and half, or two
miles, a multitude of finely alpine moun
tains, retiring obliquely in the perfpedive,
among which Langdale-pikes, Hardkriot
and Wry- note, bearing their bold, pointed
promontories aloft, are. pre-eminent. The
colouring

366 ENGLAND;
colouring of thefe mountains, -which arfi
tome of the gra'ndeft of Cumberland and
Weftmoreland, was this day remarkably
fine. The weather was fhowery, with
gleams of funfhine ; fometimes their tops
were entirely concealed in gray vapours,
which, drawing upwards, would feem to
afcend in volumes of finoke from their
fummits ; at others, a few fcattered clouds
v .
wandered along their fides leaving their
heads unveiled and effulgent with light*
Thefe clouds disappearing before the
ftrength of the fun, a fine downy hue of
light blue overfpread the peeping points of
the moft diftant fells, while the nearer ones
were tinged with deep purple, which was
oppofed to the brown heath and crag of
th& lower hills, the olive green of two
wooded flopes that, juft tinted by autumn,
feemed to defcend to the margin* and the
filver trantparency of the expanding water
at -

ENGLAND. 367
at their feet. This view of Windermere
appears with great majefty from .a height
above Culgarth, a feat of the Bifhop of
Landaff ; while, to the fouth, the lake after
fweeping about four miles gradually nar-
rows and difappears behind the great ifland,
which ftretches acrofs the perfpedive.
At the diftance of two or three miles
beyond Culgarth, from a hill advancing
towards the water, the whole of Winder
mere is feen ; to the right, is the white
manfion at Culgarth, among wood, on a
gentle eminence of the fhore, with the lake
fpreading wide beyond, crowned by the
fells half obfcured in cloud's. To the fouth,
the hills of the eaftern fhore, floping gra-
dually, run out in elegant and often well
wooded points into the water, and are
fpotted with villas and varied above with
enclofures. The oppofite fhore is for about
a mile fouthward a continuation of the line
4 °f

368 ENGLAND.
of rock before noticed, from which Rawlin*
fbn's-nab. pufhes a bold headland over the
lake ; the perfpedive then, finks away in
low hills, and is croffed by a remote ridge,
that clofes the fcene.
„ The villages of Rayrig ..and Bownefs,,
which are paffed in the way to the Ferry,
both fland delightfully ; one on an emi
nence commanding the whole lake, and the
other within a recefs of the fhore, nearly
oppofite the large ifland. The winding
banks of Windermere continually open new
landfcapes as you move along them, and
the mountains, which crown its head, are
as frequently changing their attitudes ; but
Langdale-pikes, the boldeft features in the
fcene, are foon loft to the eye behind the
nearer fells of the weftern fhore.
The ferry is confiderably below Chriftian's
ifland, and at the narroweft fpan of the
lake, where two points of the fhore extend to

ENGLAND. 369
*P meet each Other. This ifland, faid to con
tain thirty acres, intermingled with wood,
lawn and fhrubberies, embellifhes, without
decreafing the dignity of the fcene ; it is
furrounded by attendant filets, fome rocky,
but others, beautifully covered with wood,
feem to coronet the flood.
In crofting the water the yjufions of
vifion give force to the northern moun
tains, which viewed from hence appear to
afcend from its margin and to fpread round
it in a magnificent amphitheatre. This was
to us the moft interefting view on Winder
mere. On our approaching the weftern fhore,
the range of rocks that form it, difcovered;
their cliffs, and gradually affumed a confe*
quence, which the breadth of the channel
had denied them ; and their darknefs was
well oppofed by the bright verdure and va
riegated autumnal tints of the ifles at their
vol. 11. B b bate.

370 ENGLAND.
bafe. ' On the bank, under fhelter of thefe
rocks, a white houfe was feen beyond the
tall boles of a moft luxuriant grove of plane-
trees, which threw their fhadows over it,
and on the margin of the filver lake fpread
ing in front. From hence the road afcends
the fteep and craggy fide of Furnefs-fell,
on the b£pw of which we had a laft view
of Windermere, in its whole courfe ; to 'the
fouth, its tame but elegant landfcapes glid
ing away ipto low and long perfpedive,
and the lake gradually narrowing ; to the
north, its more irripreffive fcenery ; but the
fineft features of it were now concealed by
a continuation of the rocks we were upon.
Windermere is diftinguifbed from al} the
other lakes of this country by its fuperipr
length and breadth, by the gentle hills, cul
tivated and enclofed nearly to their fum
mit!;, that generally bind its fhores, by the
gradual diftance and fine difpofition of the
northern

ENGLAND. 371
northern mountains, by the bold fweeps of
its numerous bays, by the villas that fpeckle
and rich plantations that wind them, and by
one large ifland, furrounded by many ifletsj
which adds dignity to its bofom. On the
other lakes the iflarids are prettineffes, that
do not accord with the charader of the
fcene ; they break alfo the furface of the
water where vaft continuity is required ; and
the mind cannot endure to defcend fuddenly
from the gigantic fublimity of nature to
her fairy fports. Yet, on the whole, Win
dermere was to us the leaft impreffive of
all the lakes. Except to the north, where
the retiring mountains are difpofed with
uncommon grandeur of outline and mag
nificence of colouring, it$ fcenery is tame,
having little of the wild and nothing of the
aftonifhing energy that appears on the fea
tures ofthe more fequeftered diftrids. The
charaders of the three great lakes may, per
haps, be thus diftinguifhed : -
B b 2 Win-

372 ENGLAND.
Windermere rDiffufivenefs, ftately beau-
ty, and, at the upper end, magnificence.
Ullfwater : Severe grandeur and fubli
mity ; all that may give ideas of vaft power
and aftoriifhing majefty. The effed of Ullf
water is, that, awful as its fcenery appears,
it awakens the mind to expedation ftill
more awful, and, touching all the power's
of imagination, infpires that " fine phrenfy'*
defcriptive of the poet's eye, which not only
bodies forth unreal forms, but imparts to
fubftantial objeds a charader higher than
.their own.
* Derwentwater: Fantaftic wildnefs. and
romantic beauty, but inferior to Ullfwater
in greatnefs, both of water apd rocks ; for,
though it charms and elevates, it does not
difplay fuch features and circumftances of
the fublime, or call up fuch expedation of
unimaged and uncertain wonder. A prin
cipal defed, if we may venture to call it fo,
of Derwentwater is> that the water is too
fmall

ENGLAND. 373
fmall in proportion for the amphitheatre of
the valley in which it lies, and therefore
lofes much of the dignity, that in other cir
cumftances it would exhibit. The fault of
Windermere is, perhaps, exadly the re
verie ; where the fhores, not generally grand,
are rendered tamer by the ample expanfe of
the lake. The proportions of Ullfwater are ,
more juft, and, though its winding form
gives it in fome parts the air of a river, the
abrupt and tremendous height of its rocks,
the dark and crowding fummits of the fells
above, the manner in which they enclofe it,
together with the dignity of its breadth, em
power it conftantly to affed the mind with
emotions of aftonifhment. and lofty expeda
tion.

Bb3 FROM

374

ENGLAND.

FROM WINDERMERE TO HAWKSHEAD,
THURSTON-LAKE AND ULVERFTON.
After afcending the laborious crags
and precipices of Furnefs-fell, enlivened,
however, by frequent views of the fouthern
end of Windermere, the «road immediately
defcends the oppofite fide of the mountain,
which fhuts out the beautiful fcenery of the
lake ; but the profped foon after opens to
other mountains of Furnefs, in the diftance,
which revive the expedation of fuch fub
limity as we had lately regretted, and to
Efth wait- water in the valley belowl This
is a narrow, pleafant lake, about half a mile
broad and two miles long, with gradual hills,
green to their tops, rifing round the mar
gin ; with plantations and paftures alternately fpreading

ENGLAND. 375
fpreading along the eafy fhores, and white
farms fcattered fparingly upon the flopes
above. The water feems to glide through
the quiet privacy of pleafure-grounds ; fo
fine is the turf on its banks, fo elegant its
copfes, and fuch an air of peace and retire
ment prevails over it. A neat white village
lies at the feet of the hills near the head of
the lake ; beyond it is the gray town of
Hawkfhead, with its church and parfonage
on an eminence commanding the whole
ya-lley. Steep hills rife oyer them, and,
more diftant, the tall heads of the Coni-
flpn-fells, dark and awful, with a confufion
of other mountains.
Hawkfhead, thus delightfully placed, is
an antient, but fmall town, with a few good
houfes, and a neat town-houfe, lately built
by fubfcriptions, of which the chief part
was gratefully fupplied by London mer
chants, who had been educated at the free
B b 4 fchool

376 ENGLAND.
fchool here ; and this fchool itfelf is a me
morial of gratitude, having been founded
by Archbifhop Sandys, for the advantage of
the town, which gave him birth. Near
Hawkfijead ate the remains of the houfe,
where the Abbot of Furnefs " kept refi
dence by one or more monks, who per
formed divine fervice and other parochial
duties in the neighbourhood," There is
ftill a court-room over the gateway, *' where
the bailiff of Hawkfhead held court, and
diftributed juftice, in the name of the
abbot." From the tremendous fteeps of the long
fell," which towers over Hawkfhead, afto-
nifhing views open to the diftant vales and
mountains of Cumberland ; overlooking all
the. grotefque fummits in the neighbour
hood of Grafrnere, the fells of Borrowdale
in the furtheff diftance, Langdale-pikes, and
feveral fmall lakes;, feen gleaming in the
bofpm

ENGLAND. 377
bofom of the mountains. Before Us, rofe
the whole multitude of Conifton-fells, of
immenfe height and threatening forms,
their tops thinly darkened with thunder
mifts, and, on the left, Furnefs-fells finking
towards the bay, which Ulverfton fands
form for the fea.
As we advanced, Conifton-fells feemed
to multiply, and became ftill more impref
five, till, having reached at length the fum
mit of the mountain, we looked down upon
Thurfton-lake immediately below, and faw
them rifing abruptly round its northern end
in fomewhat of the fublime attitudes and
dark majefty of Ullfwater. A range of
lower rocks, nearer to the eye, exhibited a
very peculiar and grotefque appearance, co
loured fears and deep channels marking
their purple fides, as if they had been rifted
by an earthquake.
The rpad defcends the flinty fteeps to-<
wards

378 ENGLAND.
wards the eaftern bank of the lake, that
fpreads a furface of fix miles in length
and generally three quarters of a mile in
breadth, not winding in its courfe, yet
much indented with bays, and prefenting
nearly its whole extent at once to the eye.
The grandeft features are the fells, that
crown its northern end, not diftantly and
gradually, like thofe of Windermere, nor
varied like them with magnificent colour
ing, but rifing in haughty abruptnefis, dark,
rugged and ftupendous, within a quarter of
a mile of the margin, and fhutting out all
profped of other mountain-fummits. At
their feet, paftures fpread a bright green to
the brim of the lake, Nearly in the centre .
of thefe fells, which open in a femicircle
to receive the lake, a catarad defcends, but
its fhining line is not of a breadth propor
tioned to the vaftnefs of its perpendicular
fall. The village of Conifton is fweetly feated

ENGLAND. 379
feated under fhelter of the rocks ; and,
at a diftance beyond, on the edge of the
Water, the antient hall, or priory, fhews its
turret and ivyed ruins among old woods.
The whole pidure is refleded in the li
quid mirror below. The gay, convivial
chorus, or folemn vefper, that once fwelled
along the lake from thefe confecratcd walls,
and awakened, perhaps, the enthufiafm of
the voyager, while evening Hole upon the
fcene, is now contrafted by defolationand
profound repofe, and, as he glides by, he
hears only the dafhing of his oars, or the
furge beating on the fhore.
This lake appeared to us one of the moft
charming we had feen. From the fublime
mountains, which bend round its head, the
heights, on either fide, decline towards the
fouth into waving hills, that form its fhores,
and often ftretch in long fweeping points
-into the water, generally covered with
g tufted

380 ENGLAND.
tufted wood, but fometimes with the tender
verdure of pafturage. The tops of thefe
woods were juft embrowned with autumn,
and coritrafted well with other flopes, rough
and heathy, that rofe above, or fell betide
them to the water's brink, and added force
to the. colouring, which the reddifh tints of
decaying fern, the purple bloom of heath,
and the bright golden gleams of broom,
fpread over thefe elegant banks. The^r
hues, the graceful undulations of the mar
ginal hills and bays, the richnefs of the
woods, the folemnity of the northern fells
and the deep repofe, that pervades the fcene,
where only now and then a white cottage
or a farm lurks among the trees, are cir
cumftances, which render Thurfton-lake one
of the moft interefting* and, perhaps; the
moft beautiful of any in the country. ;
The road undulates over copfy hills, and
dips into fhallow vallies along the whole of
the

ENGLAND. 38 i
.;¦ -i--('f : v,' .'...¦ < Vii ; Sr .¦ >.
the eaftern bank, feldom greatly elevated
above the water, or defcending to a level
with it, but frequently opening to extenfive
views of its beauties, and again fhrouding
itfelf in verdant gloom. The moft impref
five pidures were formed by the fells, that
crowd over the upper end of the lake, and
which, viewed from a low ftation, fome
times appeared nearly to enclofe that part of
it. The effed was then aftonifhingly grand,
particularly about fun-fet, when the clouds,
drawing upwards, difcovered the utmoft
,fummits of thefe fells, and a tint of dufky
blue began to prevail over them, which
gradually deepened into night. A line of
lower rocks, that extend from thefe, are,
independently of the atmofphe're, of a dull
purple, and their, fhaggy forms would ap
pear gigantic in almoft any other fituation.
Even here, they preferve a wild dignity,
and their attitudes fomewhat refemble thofe at

382 ENGLAND.
at the entrance of Borrowdale ; but they
are forgotten, when the eye is. lifted to the
folemn mountains immediately above. Thefe
are rich in flate quarries, and have fome
copper mines ; but the latter were clofed,
during the civil wars of the laft century,
having been worked, as we are told in the
defcriptive language of the miners, from the
day to the evening end, forty fathom, and
to the morning end feven fcpre fathom ; a
figurative ftyle of diftinguifhing the weftern
and eaftern diredions of the mine. The
lake, towards the lower end, narrdws and
is adorned by one fmall ifland ; but here
the hills of the eaftern fhore foar into fells,
fome barren, craggy and nearly perpendi
cular, others entirely covered with coppice-
wood. Two of thefe,' rifing over the road,
gave fine relief to each other, the one fhew
ing only precipices of fhelving rock, while
its rival afpired with woods, that mantled from

ENGLAND. 383
from the bafe to the fummit, confifting
chiefly of oak, afh and holly. Not any
lake, that we faw, is at prefent fo much
embellifhed with wood as Thurfton. All
the mountains of High and the vallies of
Low Furnefs were, indeed, fome centuries
ago, covered with forefts, part of which was
called- the Foreft of Lancafter ; and thefe
were of fuch entangled luxuriance as to be
nearly impenetrable in many trads. Here,
wolves, wild boars, and a remarkably large
breed of deer, -called Leghs, the heads of
which' have frequently been found buried
at a confiderable depth in the foil, abound
ed. So fecure an afylum did thefe animals
find in the woods' of High Furnefs, that,
even after the low lands were cleared and
cultivated, fhepherds were neceffary to
guard the flocks from the ravages of the
wolves. , Towards the end of the thirteenth
century, the upper forefts alfo were nearly
deftroyed. In

384 ENGLAND,
In winter, the fhepherds ufed to feed
their flocks with the young fprouts of afh
and holly, a cuftom faid to be ftill obferved;
the fheep coming at the call of the fhep-
herd and affembling round the holfy-tree
to receive from his hand the young fhoots
cropped for them *. Whenever the woods
are felled, which is too frequently done, to
fupply fuel for the neighbouring furnaces,
the holly is ftill held facred to the flocks of
thefe mountains.
Soon after paffing the ifland, the road
enters the village of Nibthwaite, rich only
in fituation; for the cottages are miferable.
The people feemed to be as ignorant as
poor ; a young man knew not^how far it
was to Ulverfton, or as he called it Ulfon,
though it was only five miles.
On the point of a promontory of the
oppofite fhore, embofomed in ancient
* Weft's " Antiquities of Furnefs." woods,

ENGLAND. 385
woods, the chimnies Tand pointed roof pf
a, gray ,manfion look out mpft. intereft-
ingly. The woods open partially to the
north, and. admit a yiew of the. Swifs
fcenery at the head of the lake, in ,its fine
pofition. On the other fides, the oaks fo
embower the houfe and fpread down the
;L ¦--¦¦¦ ¦¦:. - - ¦¦ ¦ ¦ ¦,; ,': - "':'? • ' '"pi-
rocks, as fcarcely to allow it a glimpfe q£
the water bickering between the dark foliage
below. ,
At Nibthwaite, the lake becomes narrow
and gradually decreafes, till it terminates at
Lo wick-bridge, where .it glides away in the
little river Crake, which defcends to Ulver
fton fands. We flopped upon the bridge
to take a laft view ofthe fcene ; the diftant
fells were difappearing in twilight, but the
gray fake gleamed at their bafe. From the
fteeps of a lofty mountain, that rofe near
us on the right, cattle were flowly defcend
ing for" the night, winding among theoags,'
vol.ii.' Ce fometimea

386 ENGLAND.

or

fometimes flopping to crop the heath,
.-'>"', ---'» «-"•¦ > s iji.LL. "7O0 '"'' ''. V'VJ
broom, and then difappearing for a mpihent
behirid the darker verdure of yews, that
grew in knots upon the cliffs.
It was night before we reached Ulver-i-
fton. The wind founded mournfully anjong
,,,.,,(£* :, ¦--- :;.,q : ¦,,- rl' \y„-. idn- 3111
the hills and we perceived our approach
lff .,-- , ,. *.¦>,,¦! _:>]-,h? i,, ;-,r:,-, VT37 rr.
fp the fea only by the faint roaring of .the
-no-' i. " '' '! ,;r .'",!. ¦¦"•!' I ,'J'r'~' l- «0
tide, till from a brow, whence the hills open
on either hand with a grand fweep, we
'. ¦ V • . - - , V i v "I i'iJ .V'- -. , V J . } ' V 'J
could juft difcern the gray furface ofthe
fea-bay, at a diftance below, and then, by
lights that glimmered in the bottom, the
town of Ulverfton, lying not far from the
fhore and fcreened on the north by the
heights, from which we were to defcerid.
Ulverfton is a neat but ancient town, the
capital and chief port of Furnefs. TWroaif
from it to the majeftic ruin of Furnefs' Ab
bey lies through Low Furnefs-,' and 'lbfes the
general wildnefs and intereft of the country^ except

ENGLAND. 387
1
except where now and then the diftant re-
*f?')iVfOi'! ••(/<' ; ¦'¦.•-, .;;;'. !,'.>.;, ,r;>jV> V . • VW.V
trofped of the mountains breaks over the
if,V1 ¦?>'*"' .' ->• " ¦•-•-,(-,¦-. "-.¦:.<,, —' ',,,,, ,1;.,,,,
tame hills and regular enclofures, that bor-
der it.
-wvf j ¦¦ - !->(.-¦ ' .-;¦ ',1 ^f,r+ i ¦'.-,, ..-. • tl
About a mile and a half , on this, fide of
rjfst; ,t- - ' iV:v.-.. , .,,¦ '.>->!*'... • ; )¦!"¦ '--,«rf s «v,H
the Abbey, the road paffes through Daltop,
a very ancient little, town, once the. capital
of Low. Furnefs, and rendered fo impor-
tant by its neighbourhood to the Abbey,
that Ulverftpn, the prefent capital, could not
then fupport the weekly market, for yyhich
it had obtained a charter. Daiton, however,
funk with the fuppreffion of its neighbour
ing patrons, and is now chiefly diftinguifhed,
by the pleafaptnefs of its fituation, to which
a church, built on a b^old afcent,. and the re
mains ofa caftle, advantageoufly placed for.
the ; command pf th.e, adjoining valley, ftill
attach fome, degree of > dignity., ,. What, now
exifts of the latter is one tower, in a cha-m-
»vm:.' . . w -•-
ber of which the Abbot of Furnefs held his
C c 2 fecular

388 ENGLAND,
fecular Court ; ^.nd the chamber was after-
' ' ¦-¦--' ' ' * ' VJ '
wards ufed as a gaol for debtors, till within
thefe few years, when the dead ruin releafed,
the living one. The prefent church-yard
and the fcite of this caftle are fuppofed to
have been included within the limits of a
cafiellum, built by Agricdla, of the foffe of
which there are ftill fome faint veftiges.
Beneath the brow, on which the church
¦and tower ftand, a brook flows through a
narrow valley, that winds about a mile and
a hajf to the Abbey. In the way thither
we, paffed tfie entrance of one of the very
rich iron mines, with which, the neighbour^:
hood abounds;, and, the deep red tint ofthe
foil, that overfpreads almoft the whole coun-i
try between Ulverfton and the monafteryf
fufficiently indicates the nature of the trea-
fures beneath,
^ a SiMr- Slen> branching from this va{-
Jey, fhrouded by winding banks clumped With

England. *sg
: : >'¦ : ¦'¦' V f
with old groves of oak and chefnut, we
cn ' "'''" . ' -'" " . :-,i/i-:"5 fi:
found the magnificent remains of

FURNESS ABBEY.
^-  i V; ,¦-,¦ — L — J — > ' , v - i ¦ , {
•  ¦ — - ¦ — .. — —  —  ¦ ¦¦¦' ' ' ¦ ¦ — ¦ — -r
1 he deep retirement of its fituation^
the venerable grandeur of its gothic arches
and the luxuriant yet ancient trees, that
fhadow this forfaken fpot, are circumftances
of pidurefque and, if the expreffion may be
allowed, of fentimental beauty, which fill
the mind with folemn yet delightful emo
tion. This glen is called the Vale of Night-
made, orj more literally from its ancient
title Bekangs-gill, the " glen of deadly
nightfhade," that plant being' abundantly
found in the neighbourhood. Its roman
tic gloom and fequeftered privacy- particu-
'"Cf'eS larly

39® KRGXANjD^ '
larly adapted it to, the ;auft^j.t^sf of, mpnaftk
life ; and, in the, m^ffrst^d partp)f.it,-Kr^
Stephen, while ( Earl of Mortaign , and ;B;ul-
loign^foijnded, in tbe year i. 1,2,7, tjie rnagr'.
nifieentr mopaftery of JFurnefs, and^en^qw-ed
it with princely wealth, and almoft princely"
authority, in whfph, it was fecond qnjy tp
/ Foptain's-abbey in Yprk^uig/ \aEd j '¦¦-;
The windings of the glen can^li^efe
venerable ruins, tilt they are clofely, approach
ed, and the, bye road, that conduded us, .is
margined with a few ancient oaks, which,
> : T*e ~ *j* ' ...... • ¦ ¦ "- .. ' ',.' .f - . — , . ' J- t J.V- *
ftretch , their broad branches entirely acrofe
it, and are finely preparatory objed^s to the
fcene beyond. A fudden bend in this. road
brought us within view of the northern gate
of the Abbey, a beautiful gothic arch, one.(
fide of which is luxuriantly feftooned with
".- - ." :•¦¦ .:•<¦;? ..:. :¦/>.¦• i; va- v;.tl ,,.-'"> \<i t».*
nightfhade. A thick grove of plane-trees, .
with fome oak and beech, overfhadow it on
¦?¦•'¦ '"' ' ••'''¦>> '""' • , . ¦¦% -nh builqqmz ...iv'
the_ right, and lead jthe ^eye o^Fa^d to ih,e^
ruins

ENGLAND. j$i
tilths of thec Abbey, feen through ftdYdafk
arch iri' rem'btfe perfpedive, over rough but
verdant ground. The principal features ate
the great northern window and part of the'
K eaftern" choir, with' glirnpfes of mattereif
arches and ftately walls' beyond, caught be-1
tween the gaping cafements. On the' left;
the bank of the glen is 'broken into knolls
capped with oaks, which in ibme places
fpread downwards to a ftream that winds
round the ruin, and darken it with their rich
foliage. Through this gate is the entrance
fo the imhiediate precinds of the Abbey,
an area faid to contain fixty-five acres, now
called the Deer-park. It is enclofed by a
ftone wall, on which the remains of many
finall buildings and the faint veftiges of

¦/p.

others, ftill appear ; fuch as the porter's
,.-.,¦• "j ¦  5!',' ", . 1 ¦-. _ -
1,6'dge, mills, granaries, ovens and kilris that
once fupplied the monaftery, fome of which,
feen under the fhade of the firie old1 trees,
C c 4 that

3,92 ENGLAND.
that on every fide adorn the broken fteeps
of this glen, have a very interefting effed.
Juft within the gate, a finall manor houfe
of modern date, with itsftables and other
offices, breaks difcordantly upon the lonely
grandeur of the fcene. Except this, the
•charader of the deferted ruin is fcrupu-
loufly preferved in the furrounding area ;
rio fpade has dared to level the inequalities,
which fallen fragments have occasioned in
the ground, or fhears to clip the wild fern
and underwood, that overfpread it; but
every eireumftance confpires to heighten the
folitary grace of the principal objed and to.
prolong the luxurious melancholy, which
the view of it infpires. We made our way
among the pathlefs- fern and grafs to the
north end of the church, now, like every
other part of the Abbey, entirely rooffefs,
but fhewing the lofty arch of the great win
dow, where, inftead of the paintedv gkf»
* that

ENGLAND, 3g3
that once enriched it, are now tufted plants
and: wreaths of nightfhade. Below is the
principal door of the church,* bending into
a deep round arch, which, retiring circle
within circle, is rich and, beautiful ; the re
mains of a winding flair-cafe are vifible
within the Wall on its left fide. Near this
, northern end of the edifice are feen one fide
of the eaftern choir, with its two flender
gothic window frames, and on the weft a
remnant of the nave of the Abbey and
• fdme lofty arches, which once belonged to
the belfry, now detached from the main
building. To the fouth, but concealed from this
point of view, are the chapter-houfe, fome
years ago exhibiting a roof of beautiful go
thic fretwork, and which Was almoft the
,:.©nly part of the Abbey thus ornamented, its
arehitedure having been charaderifed by
an air of grand fimplicity rather than by
the

394 ENGLAND^
the. elegance and richnefs of decoration^
which in an after date diftinguifhed the go
thic ftyle in England. Over the chapter-
houfe were once the library and fcriptoriuni,
and beyond it are ftill the remains of cloif-
ters ofthe refedory, the locutorium, or
CoriVerfation-rdorrii and the calefadory.
Thefe, with the walls of fome chapels, of
the veftry, a hall, and of what is believed
to have been a fchooUhoufe, are all the fea
tures of this noble edifice that can eafily be\
traced : winding flair-cafes within the fur-
prifiqg thicknefs of the walls, and door-cafes
involved in darknefs and myftery, the place
abounds with.
The abbey, which was formerly of fuch
magnitude as nearly tO'fill up the breadth
of the glen, is built of a pale-red ftone, dug'
from the neighbouring rocks, now changed-
by time and weather to a tint of dufky
brown, which accords well' with the hues of

EN G L A ND. 395
of plants .and fhrubs that every where em-
bofs the mouldering arches. ist, Sii
The fineft view of the ruin' is, on the eaft,
fide, where, beyond the vaft, fluttered frame
thatpnce contained, : a richly-painted win-
dpw, i9 feen a perfpedive of the choir and •
of diftant arches, remains of the nave of th,e
abbey, doted by the ^ woods. This perfpec-
tive of the ruin is * faid to be two hundred
and eighty-feven feet in length ; the choir
part of it is in width only twenty- eight feef
infid.e, but the nave is feventy : the walls, as
they now ftand, are fifty-four feet high and
in thicknefs five. Southward from the choir
extend the ftill beautiful, though broken,
pillars and arcades of fome chapels, now
laid open, tp, the -day; the chapter- houfe,
the;d°ifters> and beyond all, and detached
from all, is the fchopl-houfe, a large build-
* " Antiquities of Furnefs." _ , >7;
ing

396 ENGLAND*
ing, the only part of the monaftery that .ftilt
boafts a roof. <¦.-„,,,
As, foothed by the venerable fhades, and
,the view of a more venerable ruin, v/e refted
oppofite to the eaftern window of the choir^
where once the high altar ftood, and, with
five other altars, affifted the religious pomp
ofthe fcene; the images and the, man
ners of times, that were paft, rofe to reflec
tion. The midnight proceffion ,of monks,
clothed in white and bearing lighted, tapers,
appeared to the " mind's eye" iffuing to
the choir through the very door-cafe, by
wliich fuch proceffions were wont to pafs
from the cloifters to perform the matin fer-
vice, when, at the" moment of their enter-*
ing the church, the deep chanting of voices
was heard, and the organ fwelled a fplemn
peal. To fancyi the ftrain ftill echoed
feebly along the arcades and died in* the
breeze among the woods, the ruffling leaves
mingling

ENGLAND. 397
mingling with the clofe. It was eafy to
Image the abbot and the officiating priefts
feated beneath the richly-fretted canopy of
the four flails, that ftill remain entire ip
the fouthern wall, and high over which is
now1 perched a folitary yew-tree, a black
funereal memento to the living of thofe whp
once fat below,
Of a quadrangular court on the weft fide
pf the church, three hundred and thirty^
four feet long and one hundred and two
feet wide, little veftige now appears, except
the foundation of a range of cloifters, that
formed its weftern boundary, and under
the fhade pf which the monks op days of
high folemnity paffed in their cuftomary
proceffion round the court. What was the
peltry is now a huge mats of detached ruin,
pidurefque from the loftinefs of its flutter
ed arches and the high inequalities of the
ground within thern, where the tower, that
once

398 ENGLAND.
I once crowned this building, having*' fallen,
lies in Vaft fragments, now covered with
earth and grafs, and no longer diftinguifh
able but by the hillock they form.
¦The fchool-houfe, a heavy ftrudure at
tached to the boundary wall on the fouth,
is nearly entire, and the walls, particularly
ofthe portal, are of enormous thicknefs,
but, here and there, a chafm difclofes the
ftair-cafes, that wind within them to cham
bers above. The fchool-room belowV fhews
only a ftone bench, that extends round the
walls, and a low ftone pillar in the eaftern"
corner, on which the teacher's pulpit was*
formerly fixed. The lofty vaulted roof is'j
fcarcely diftinguifhable by the dufky light
admitted through one or two narrow win
dows placed high from thegrouS'd, perhaps
for the purpofe of confining the fcholar's
attention to his book. . •
Thefe are the principal features, that' re
main

ENGLAND. 393
main pf this once magnificent abbey. It
was, dedicated, to St. Mary, and received a
eolpny of 1 monks, from the monaftery of
Savigny in,., Normandy, who were called
Gray Monks, fropi their drefs of that co
lour,, till they became, Ciftercians, and, with
the^ ,.feye^e rules of St. Bernard, adopted a
white habit, which they retained till, the
diffplution of mppaflic orders: in England.
The original rules of St. Bernard partook;
ip feveral inftances of the aufterities of thofe;
of La Trapp, and the fociety did not very
readily relinquifh the milder laws of St.
Benedid for the new rigours impofed upon
them by the parent monaftery of Savigny.
They were forbidden to tafle flefh, except
when ill, and even eggs, butter, cheefe and
milk, but on extraordinary occafions ; and
denied even the uCe of linen and fur. The
monks were divided into, two claffes, to
which feparate departments belonged. —
3 Thofe,

400 ENGLAND.
Thofe, who attended the chpir, flept upon
flraw in their ufual habits, from which, at
midnight, they rofe and paffed into the
church, where they continued their holy
hymns, during the fhort remainder of the
night. After this firft mafs, having pub
licly confeffed themfelves, they retired to
their cells, and the day was employed in
fpiritual exercifes and in copying or illumi
nating manufcripts. An unbroken filencp
was obferved, except when, after dinner,
they withdrew into the locutprium, where
for an hopr, perhaps, they were permitted,
the common privilege pf focial beings.
This clafs was confined to the boundary
wa}l, except that, on fome particular days,
the members of it were allowed to walk
in parties beyond it, for exerdfe and amufe^
ment ; but they were very feldom permit
ted either to receive, or pay yifits. Like.
the monks of La Trapp, however, they
o were

ENGLAND; 40!
Were diftinguifhed for extenfive charities
and liberal hofpitality ; for travellers were
fo fcrupuloufly entertained at the Abbey,
that it was not till the diffokitiori that an
inn was thought neceffary in this part of
Furnefs, when one was opened for their
accommodation, Cxprefsly becaufe the mo
naftery could rio lortger v receive them.
To the fecond clafs were affigned the cuU
tivation of the lands, and the performance
bf domeftic affairs in the monaftery.
This was the fecond houfe in England^
that received the Bernardine rules, the moft
rigorous of which were, however, difpCnfed
with in 1485 by Sixtus the Fourth, when,
among other indulgences, the whole order
was allowed to tafte meat on three days
of the week. With the rules of St. Benedid;
the monks had exchanged their gray habit
for a white caffock with a white caul and
fcapulary. But their choir drefs was either
VOL. ii. D d white

402 ENGLAND.
white or gray, with caul and fcapulary of
the fame, and a girdle of black wool ; over
that a mozet, pr hood, and a rochet*.
When they went abroad .they wore a caul
and full black hood.
The privileges and immunities, granted
to the Ciftercian order in general, were very
abundant ; and thofe to the Abbey of Fur
nefs were proportioned to its vaft endow
ments. The abbot, it has been mentioned,
held his fecular court in the neighbouring
caftle of Dalton, where he prefided with
-the power of adminiftering not only juftice
but injuftice,* fince the lives and property of
the villain tenants of the lordfhip of Fur
nefs were configned by a grant of King
Stephen to the difpofal of my lord abbot J
The monks . alfo could be arraigned, for
whatever crime, only by him. " The mi
litary eftablifhmeht of Furnefs likewise, der
* {t Antiquities of Eurnefs." pended

ErfbLAND. 46]
pended on the abbot. Every meihe lord
and free homager, as well as the cuftomary
tenants, took an oath of fealty to the abbot,
to be true td him againft all men, excepting
the king. Every mefne lord obeyed the
fummbns of the abbot, Or his fteward, in
raifing his qUota of armed men, arid every
tenant of a whole tenement furnifhed a mari
and horfe of war for guarding the coaft, for
the bdrder-fervice, or any expedition againft
the Cbnrihon enemy of the king and king
dom. The habiliments of war were a fleel
coat, ot coat of mail, a fake, or falchion,
a jack, the bow^ the bill, the crofs-bow and
fpear. The Furnefs legion Confifted of
four divifions :— one of bowmen horfed
and harneffed ; bylmen horfed and har-s
Ueffed ; bowmen without horfe and har-
hefs ; bylmen without horfe arid har'-i
faefs*."
* " Antiquities of Furaefs."
D d 2 the

404 'ENGLAND*.
The deep forefts, th^t once furrounded
the Abbey, and overfpread all Furnefs, con
tributed with its infulated fituation, on a
neck of 'land running out ipto the fea, to
fecure it from the depredations of the ScOts,
who were continually committing hoftilities
on the borders. On a fummit over the
Abbey are the remains of a beacon, or
watch-tower, raifed by the fociety for their
further fecurity. It commands extenfive
views over Low Furnefs and the bay of
the fea immediately beneath ; looking for
ward to the town and" caftle of Lancafter,
appearing faintly on the oppofite coaft ; on
the fouth, tb the ifles .of Wanley, Foulney,
arid their numerous iflets, on one of which
Hands Peel-caftle; and, on the north, to the
mountains of High Furnefs and Conifton,
rifing in grand' amphitheatre round this
inlet of the Irifh Channel. Defcription can
fcarcely fuggeft the full magnificence of
6 fuch

ENGLAND. • 405
fuch a profped, to which the monks, emer
ging from their concealed cells below, oc
cafionally retorted to footh , the afperities,
which the fevere difcipline of fup'erftition
inflided on the temper ; or, freed from
the obfervance of jealous eyes,, to indulge,
perhaps, the figh of regret, which a confe
deration, of the world they had renounced,
thus glorioufly given back" to their fight,
would fometimes awaken.
From Hawcoat, a few miles to the weft
of Furnefs, the view is ftill more extenfive,
whence, in a clear day, the whole length of
the Ifle of Man may be feen, with part of
Anglefey and the mountains of Caernarvon,
Merionethfhire, Denbighfhire and Flint-
fhire, fhadowing the oppofite horizon of
the channel.
The fum total of all rents belonging to
the Abbey immediately before the diffolu-
tion was 946I. 2s. ipd, colleded from Lan-
D d 3 cafhire,

^ao;, -ENGLAND,
cafhire, Cumberland, apd even from %h§
Ifle of Man ; a fum, which confidering the
value pf money at that period ; and the
woods, meadpws, paftures, and fifheries,
retained by the fociety in their pwn hands ;
the quantity of provifions for dpmeftic ufe
brought by the tenants inftead of rent,
and the fhares pf mines, mills, and falt-
works, which belonged to the Abbey, fwells,
its former riches to an enormous amount.
Pyle, the laft abbot, furrendered with
twenty-nine monks, to Henry the Eighth,
April the- 9th 1537, and m return was
made Redpr of Dalton, a fituation then
valued at thirty-three pounds fix fhilhngs
and eight-pence a year.

FR014

England: 40y

| FROM ULVERSTON TO LANCASTER.
Trom the Abbey we returned to
, Ulverfton, and from thence croffed the
fands to Lancafter, a ride Angularly in
terefting and fublime. From the Carter's
houfe, which ftands on the edge, of the
Ulverfton fands, and at the point, whence
paffengers enter them, to Lancafter, within
the furtheft oppofite fhore, is fifteen miles.
This noble bay is interrupted by the pe
ninfula of Cartmel, extending a line of
white rocky coaft, that divides the Leven
and Ulverfton fands from thofe of Lan
cafter. The former are four miles over:
the latter feven. ,
We took the early part of the tide, and
entered thefe vaft and defolate plains before
D d 4 the

4o8 ENGLAND.
the fea had entirely left them, or the morn*
ing mills were fufficiently diffipated to allow
a view of diftant ©bjeds ; but the . grand
fweep of the coaft could be faintly traced,
pn the left, and a vaft wafte of fand ftretch-
|ng far below it, with mingled ftreaks of
gray water, that heightened its dreary af-
ped. The tide was ebbing faft from our
wheels, and its low murmur was interrupt
ed, firft, only by the thrill fmall cry of fea-
gulls, unfeen, whofe hovering flight could
be traced- by the found, near an ifland that
began to dawn through the mift ; and then,
by the hoarfer croaking of fea-geefe, which
took a wider range, for their fhifting voices
were heard from various quarters of the
furrounding Coaft. The body of the fea,
pn the right, was ftill involved, and the dif
tant mountains on our left, that crown the
bay, were alfo yiewlefs ; but it was fub-.
fimely interefting to watch the heavy va
pours

ENGLAND. 409
pours beginning to move, then rolling in
lengthening volumes over the fcene, and, as
they gradually diffipated, difcovering through •
their veil the various objeds they had con
cealed — fifhermen with carts and nets- (leaf
ing along the margin of the tide, little boats
putting off from the fhorej and, the view
ftill enlarging as the vapours expanded,' the
main fea itfelf foftening into the horizon,
with here and there a dim fail moving in
the hazy diftance. The wide defolation bf
the fands, on the left, was animated only
by fome horfemen riding remotely in
groups towards Lancafter, along the wind
ing edge of the water, and by a mufcle-
fifher in his cart trying to ford the channel
we were approaching.
The coaft round the bay was now dif-
tindly, though remotely, feen, rifing in
woods, white cliffs and cultivated flopes to
wards the mountains of Furnefs, on whofe dark

4io ENGLAND.
dark brows the vapours hovered. The
fhore falls into frequent receffes and juts out
in promontories, where villages and country
feats are thickly fire wn. Among the lat
ter, Holker-hall, deep among woods, flands
in the north. The village and hall of Bard-
fea, once the fite of a monaftery, with a
rocky back-ground and, in front, meadows
falling towards the water ; and Conifhead
priory, with its fpiry woods, the paragon
of beauty, lie along the weftern coaft,
where the hills, fwelling gently from the ifle
of Walney, nearly the laft point of land
vifible on that fide the bay, and extending
to the north, fweep upwards towards the
fells of High Furnefs and the whole affem-
blage of Weftmoreland mountains, that
crown the grand boundary of this arm of
the feal
We fet out rather earlier than was necef- '
fary, for the benefit pf the guide over part of

ENGLAND. 411
pf thefe tracklefs waftes, who was going to
his ftation on a fand near the firft ford,
where he remains to condud paffengers
acrofs the united ftreams of the rivers Crake
and Leven, till the returning tide wafhes
him off. He is pundual to the fpot as
the tides themfelves, where he fhivers in
the dark comfortlefs midnights of winter,
and is fcorched on the fhadelefs fands,
under the noons of fummer, for a ftipend of
ten pounds a year ! and vhe faid that he
had fulfilled the office for thirty years. He
has, however, perquiiites occafionally from
•the paffengers. In early times the Prior of
Conifhead, who eftablifhed the guide, paid
him with three acres of land and an annuity
of fifteen marks; at the diffolution, Henry
the Eighth charged himfelf and his niccef-
fors with the payment of the guide by pa
rent. Near the firft ford is Chapel Ifle, on the
. right

412 ENGLAND.
right from Ulverfton, a barren fand, where
are yet fome remains of a chapel, built by
the monks of Furnefs, in which divine fer-
vice was daily performed at a certain hour,
for paffengers, who croffed the,, fands with
the morning tide. The ford is not thought
dangerous, though the fands frequently
fhift, for the guide regularly tries for, and
afcertains, the proper paffage. The ftream
is broad and of formidable appearance,
fpreading rapidly among the fands and,
when you enter it, teeming to bear you
away in its courfe to the fea. The fecond
ford is beyond the peninfula of Cartmelf
on the Lancafter fands, and is formed by
the accumulated waters of the rivers, Ken
and Winfter, where another guide waits to
receive the traveller.
The fhores of the Lancafter fands fall
back to greater diftance and are not fo bold,
pr the mountains beyond fo awful, as thofe of

ENGLAND. 413
of Ulverfton ; but they are various, often
beautiful, and Arnfide-fells have a higher
charader. The town and caftle of Lancaf
ter, on an eminence, gleaming afar off over
the level fands and backed by a dark ridge
of rocky heights, look well as you approach
them. Thither we returned and concluded
a tour, which had afforded infinite delight
in the grandeur of its landfcapes and a re
conciling view of human nature in the fim
plicity, integrity, and friendly difpofition of
the inhabitants.

INDEX.

INDEX.

Vol. Page

\ MSTERDAM, approach to it,
"*"*¦ The ftreets and canals,

i. 103

i. 104, 106

The Stadthoufe,

i. 107

The port,

i. 109

< City government,

i. 113

Public coaches,

i. 121

Ahdernach, valley of,

U 253, 274

Town of,

i. 279. ii- 187

Andre St. fort of,

ii. H3

Appenweyer,

i. 472

Arthur's table,

ii. 274

Auftrian troops,

i. 474> 475

B

Bacharach,Bampton grange,Vale,
Baffenthwaite water,
Bergftraffe, Biel, Bingen,

11. 41
ii. 223, 239
ii. 236
"• 343
i. 466
ii. 9
ii. 30
Bingerloch,

4*<S INDEX.

Vol. Pag£

Bingerloch,

ii. 37

Bommel,

ii. 144, 151

Bonn, i.

201, 232. ii. 91

The palace,

i. 205, 209'

Boppart, -

- . ii. 62

Borrowdale,

ii- 347. 35°

Bowther ftone,

»• 352

Brougham caftle, - -

ii. 274, 288

Hall,

ii. 276

C

Carlfruhe, foreft of, - -

i- 45S.456

The palace and gardens,

i. 458

Caffel, -

i- 3T3> 3J5

Cleves, approach to it,

r i- 149

The city,

i.. 151

Coblentz,

L'283

Flying bridge,

i. 291

Cologne, appearance of the city,

i. 170. ii. £4

Government, / -

i. 180

The fort,

i. 184

Convent of Clariffe,

i. 188

Churches,

i. 190, 193

The Eleclor,

i. 225

Fugitives there,

ii. 94

Conifton-fells,

ii. 377

D

Dalton, -
'ii. 387N
Delft, its extent,
i. 3S
Delft
INDEX.

4,17

Delft, the Doolen,

Vol. Page
i. 33

Palace of William I.

i- 39

His tomb,

i. 40

Derwentwater, Dort,

»• 3l9> 325
ii. 154

Dover, ftraights of,

ii. 172

Drefs of the Dutch,

i- 4> ]3

Druidical Monument,

"• 313

Duifbourg,

ii. 120

Dykes in Holland,

i. 7

E

Ehrenbreitftein,Efthwait water,

289. ii. 77
»• 374

Flaarding, - - - ii. 161
France, converfation relative to, - ii. 79
Franckfort, the liberties and independence of, i. 391,
394, 400
The furrender and re-capture pf the city in

1792,

1.

400, 404

Cabinet Literaire,

i. 407

Theatre,

-

i. 408

Franckenthal,

-

i. 427

French prifoners,

-

i. 235

Friburg,

-

ii. 1

Furnefs Abbey,

ii.

389, 406

Vol. ii. E e

Gardens

4iS INDEX.

G

Vol. Page

Gardens in Holland, - ,

i. 31

German territories, intermixture of,

ii. 67, 68

Germany, condition of,

ii. 124, 126

Goar, St. -

ii, 55

Goodefberg,

i- 233

The caftle and hill of,

' i. 241, 246

Gorcum, -

»• !53

Government of the United Provinces, i. 52; 59
Grafmere, - - - ii. 358
Grayftock, neighbourhood of, - it. 301

H

Haarlem, voyage thither from Leyden, i. §2
The great church, - - i- 95
The city, i. 94, 98
Haerlemer Maer, i. 100, 103
Hardwick, - - ii. .179, 186
The Hague, palace there, - i- 47> 5°
Apartments of the States General, i. 50
Grand Voorhout, - i. 67
Maifon du Bois, - ' - i. 78
Half Wegen Sluice, - - i. 101
Hawkfhead, - ii. 375
Hawfwater, - - ii. 222, 228
Helvoetfluys, - - - i. 1
Hoekheim, - - - i. 313
Hoogftrafs, - - - 1-163
Hornby, - - _ ii. 196
Ingle-

Ingleborough, Johannefberg,

INDEX. I

419
Vol. Page
ii. 199
ii. 27

K

Kaub, ,
Kendal,
Kirby Lonfdale,
Koningftuhl, Koftheim,

11. 45
ii. 205, 210
ii. 202
ii. 66
i. 312

Lancafter caftle, views from, - ii. 191,193

Sands,

ii. 407

Landfcape, of England and Germany

compared,

ii. 176

Leek, river,

i. 136

Leyden, the Fair,

i. 87, 88

The Univerfity,

i. 90

Limbourg, - -

i. 299

Long Sleddale, - - -

ii. 214

Lonfdale vale,

ii. 197

Louvenftein,

ii. 152

M

Manchefter, neighbourhood of, - ii. 188,189
Manheim, appearance of the City, i. 433, 434
E e 2 Manheim,

420 INDEX.

Vol. Page

Manheim, the Palace,

i- 437

The furrounding country,

i. 441

Electoral Eftablifhments,

i. 445, 446

Mentz, approach to it,

i. 311

Ruins made by the fiege,

i. 317,318

La Favorita,

i. 321

Forts,

»• 323

The Siege,

i. 328,378

The City,

i- 378, 3^7

The Noble Chapter,

i- 387

Middleton, -

ii. 186

Dale,

ii. 186

Military Prefs in Germany,

i. 429

Montabaur, ...

i. 298

Muhlheim, -

ii. loo

N

Neufs, - - -

i.

165, 170

Neuwiedt, - -

i. 283

Nieuport, anecdote ofthe fiege of,

-

ii, 167

Nimeguen,

-

i. 142

Bridge of boats,

-

i. 141

The Belvidere, ¦

ii.

J37» *38

o

Oberwefel,
Offenburg, Oggerfheim

11. 47, 52
i. 476
i- 43 *
Oppenheim,

Oppenheim,Oudenkirk,

INDEX. 4M
Vol. Page

i- 413
i. 122

Parties in Holland, - _ i. 72
Patterdale, - - ii. 2c;j, 273
Penrith, town of, - ii. 288, 293, 298
Beacon of, - - ii. 290, 291
Pfajtz, - - - - ii. 43
Poppelfdorff, the palace of, - i. 207,216,214,
Poft, German, - - ii. 13, 20
Prince of Orange, j. 62, 74
Provifions in Holland, \ - i. 118

R

Raftadt, - i. 463
Rees, - - - ii. 129
Rheinberg, - - - i. 158
Rheingau, - ii. 25
Rhinfels, - - - ii. 56
Rotterdam, road and voyage to, from Helvoetfluys, i. 11
Its appearance from the Maefe, i. 14
The city, - i. 16, 29. ii. 156
Rydal Hall, - ii- 362-

Saardam, - - - 1. 1 10
Saddleback, - - - »• 3°*
Sandtae

422 INDEX. Vol. Page
San£he Crucis, the convent and hill, i. 214, 224
Schevening and the vifta, - - i. 8 r
Schwetzingen, - i. 452
Selters, - i. 303
Seven Mountains, i. 207,221,238,249. ii. 90
St. John, vale of - ii. 306
Skiddaw, - - ii. 307
• Afcent of - - ii. 328, 342
Sunfet and rife at fea, - ii. .170, 171

Taxes in Holland,

i. 115

Thiel,

ii. 142

Threlkeld,

ii. 308

Thurfton Lake,

»• 377>378

Timber, floats' of, on the Rhine,

ii. 108, 114

Trechtfchuyts,

i. 30

u

Ullfwater, road thither, - - ii. 240
Lake, - - ii. 245, 263
Ulverfton, - - ii. 386
Urdingen, - - - ii. 115
Utrecht, - - - . i. 123,128
Canal from Amfterdam thither, i. 123
View from the tower of the cathedral, i. 1 29
Vine-

Vineyards' in Germany. W

INDEX

423

V

Vol
• Page
iy, i. 202,
262.
ii.
29>49
Waal, river,
i. 138. ii. 142
Wefel,
ii. 121
Wetzlaar, chamber of
ii., 6<)
Windermere,
»• 363> 373
Worms,
i. 417
Wyk de Duerftede,
i. 136
Xanten, - - - »¦ *5S
Zons, caftle of
11. 102
FINIS.
E UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

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