"I give thefe Books
for the founding of a. College in tkis Colony"

Gift of
Dr. Hiram Bingham
of the Class of 1898
1907

ALONG SHORE

WITH A MAN-OF-WAR

MARGUERITE DICKINS

BOSTON, MASS.:
COPLEY SQUAKB,
1893.

Copyrighted, 1893,
BY
MABGITEBITE DICKINS.

ALL KIGHTS RESERVED.

Arena Press.

INTRODUCTION.

When I first joined the United States Navy, by means of a
marriage certificate, I found that a properly equipped sailor
carried the Spanish language in his mental kit, so I acquired it
and have enjoyed the possession immensely, especially when
taking the journey of which this book gives all the details that
I thought would please the public.
For two years and a half I sailed up and down the east coast
of South America ; seeing the lovely scenery ; meeting the
officials, and private families ; talking to and visiting them ;
reading the books they loaned me, or I could buy, until I felt
quite at home among them and made many friends.
My letters home were so much enjoyed, and so many have
praised those of them that were published in the press, that I
venture to test the value and sincerity of their words by launch
ing these letters in a volume, trusting they may help to pleas
antly wile away some hours for some one.
MARGUERITE DICKENS.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter I.
II.
III. IV. V.
VI.
VII.
VIII. IX. X.
XI.
XII.
XIII. XIV.
XV.
XVI.
XVII.
XVIII. XIX. XX.
XXI.
XXII.
XXIII. XXIV. XXV.
XXVI.
XXVII.
XXVIII. XXIX. XXX.
XXXI.

Mouth of the Amazon
City of Maranham .
City of Pernambuco
City of Bahia
Rio de Janeiro
Rio de Janeiro
Rio de Janeiro
The Rio de La Plata — Montevideo .
Scenes in Montevideo ....
Ostriches in Uruguay — Visit to Senor Sapello's
Bird Farm near Piedras
Closing Ceremonies of a Congress of Southern
Republics ......
Hotels in Montevideo — The Favorite Bathing
Resorts ......
The Carnival Season in the gay Capital of
Uruguay ......
A Bull-fight in Montevideo
City of Buenos Ayres
Shops of Buenos Ayres .....
Objects of Interest in the Suburbs of Buenos
Ayres .....
The City of La Plata
Up the Uruguay River --City of Colonia
Paysandu and the Capital of Entre Rios
Up the River Uruguay — Nueva Palmyra
Fray Bentos .
Afloat on the Parana
Up The Great River to the
Rosario
A Trip to Cordoba
From Rosario to Santa Elena
Way .
La Paz to Corrientes
The City of Asuncion — Eleven Hundred Miles
up the Parana and Paraguay
The Place of Lopez
The Anniversary of the Independence of Para
guay
Suburbs of Asuncion

Modern City of

and Cities by the

Page 7
H19
24 3°40 4859
67 77
85 93
100107117 124131 138
145158 163169 i7S182 189
206 2I3 219
225 232237

LIST OF ILLUSTRATION:

Portrait of Author.
U.S.S. Tallapoosa, Montevideo Harbor.
Group of Palms, Brazil.
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Avenue of Palms, Botanical Garden, Rio de Janeiro.
Tijuca, Brazil.
Montevideo, From the Cerro.
Independence Square, Montevideo.
Victoria Square, Buenos Ayres.
Group of Americans, Cordoba, Argentine.
Handkerchief Paraguayan Lace.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.

I.
MOUTH OF THE AMAZON.
SCENES IN THE CITY OP PARA — TROY-MADE CARS ON THE
STREET RAILROADS — THE HOTELS AND MARKETS — A VISIT
TO " MONKEY JOE'S " — THE CLIMATE AND PEOPLE.
A long stretch of sandy beach to the south, masses of tum~
bled, dirty water to the north, and a narrow winding channel-
beneath our keel ; this was the mouth of the mighty Amazon.-
And things did not improve much as we made our way up.
The sky line of Marajo Island is a dead level : a distant line of
tropical forest, unbroken and uninteresting, except as one
peoples it with animals, savages, birds, flowers or anything else
that fancy suggests, according as one's imagination is inclined
to the beautiful or the savage. The right bank we gradually

8 ALONG SHOES WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
approached, and here and there was a clearing, with a red-roofed
house, or perhaps there was a glimpse of the roofs of a tiny vil
lage, all the roofs of the same bright red tiles, which were
evidently made in the many brick-yards that nestled close down
to the water against the bank or perched on some tiny bluff.
The tiles that they make are like the old curved Dutch ones,
and are used exclusively for roofs. The bricks are shaped like
a small carpenter's square when viewed end on, and have three
square openings clear through them ; they are also longer and
broader than our bricks. As we approached Para there were
islands near us which narrowed the channel until we seemed
really to be in a river. Still, the islands and banks were not
attractive — always low and monotonous, the dense growth of
trees reaching down to and often dipping into the water, the
masses of vines running over and drooping from them. The
occasional bits of slimy bank all looked gloomy, forbidding, and
miasmatic, in spite of the blending of the beautiful shades of
green in the different plants.
About 6:30 our anchor dropped, and we swung into our berth
off the City of Para, but had hardly more than a glimpse of her
shining buildings before the sun set, and in three minutes it
was dark, the stars above, twinkling lamplights in the city, and
numerous bonfires alone lighting up in a vague way the city.
It was a feast day, hence the bonfires before the churches, the
band of music playing loudly, and the rockets which went up

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 9
from all parts of the place. The next day we went ashore early,
and landed at a nice covered wharf — a wharf is a luxury any
one who has traveled much appreciates, and a covered one
is more than luxury.
First we found a long, narrow park fronting the river,
planted with palm trees, and around the base of one was a
group of half-naked, brown-skinned boys, gambling with their
copper pennies, and they were much amused when I resented
their calling me English ; but I know by experience that to the
South American, to be a citizen of the United States is to be a
friend, and to be English is the contrary. Behind the park,
facing the river, is a row of large two-storied buildings, their
fronts entirely covered with glazed tiles. The effect was
beautiful as they shone and sparkled in the tropical sun, and
as most of the buildings and residences in the city were en
tirely covered with these tiles, brought from Portugal, you can
fancy what a gay city it is. The bank building, where we
changed some money, was covered with pale green tiles, a pink
conventional rose in relief being in the center of each one.
Apropos of money, for an English sovereign we received 11,000
paper reis, a rei being the unit of value used in Brazil. The
smallest copper coin used is a piece of twenty reis — one cent —
and what one uses most commonly are the one and two
hundred nickel reis pieces, and the one, two, five, and ten
mil — thousand — reis bank notes. Their paper money, like

10 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
that of most of the world, is made by the American Bank
Note Company of New York, and is very pretty when new.
We went to the market, walking along one of the
many paved streets with stone sidewalks, and found it in a
large white-washed building which had a court or patio
in the center. A patio is a closed or open court, with or
without flowers in it, and often forming the chief feature
in a house. There were piles of fruit all about on the
stands ; among them, bananas of many varieties, pine-apples,
avocates, sapodillas, cocoa-nuts, oranges, limes, and many
others that were new to me. Two stands had decorated
gourds ; there were a few chattering monkeys, screaming
parrots, and smaller birds. There were a few Brazil nuts,
both in and out of the husk, but it was not the season
for them, and I here learned that the sole source of the
world's supply was the Upper Amazon. The natives, who
bring them down in big canoes, are often a month on the
voyage down and two or three on the return, if they ever
return, for they often break up their canoes and remain
in Para, appalled by the difficulties of the return trip
against the swift river.
The street cars are like the open ones we use in summer,
and were made by John Stephenson, of Troy, N. Y. They
are drawn by two fair-sized rats with long ears, which are
called mules to flatter them. They go at a gallop most

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 11
of the time, and as the tracks are much neglected and in a
state to give you sudden surprises, you wish you had the
driving to do. Some one must have had carte-blanche given
him to put down street-car tracks, for they are on all of the
principal, all of the side streets, and most of the alleys, be
sides running well out into the country. Most of the streets
are shaded by mango trees. This tree has a large trunk
with a smooth bark; the foliage is bright green and very
dense ; the fruit about the size of a goose egg, smooth,
bright yellow, the pulp clinging firmly to the pit; it is also
sweet and tastes strongly of turpentine. There is a stretch
of palms down one street that they seemed very proud of,
and they were beautiful ; but palms are indigenous, and if
they like them so much, why not have a lot? The tiled
houses, situated behind gardens full of blooming plants,
looked lovely, and the wild, luxuriant growths in the sub
urbs were fascinating ; but we could not linger long, as the
thermometer stood at about 120 ° , and every one but myself
complained of the heat.
We went to the principal hotel and had a poor dinner,
with good native wine, in a nice, cool, clean room, with
blooming plants on the balconies, through which we looked
at the crowded streets below. Water is taken to the houses
in big barrels mounted on wheels and drawn by the tiniest
oxen and bulls ; they are hardly larger than a calf. The

12 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
men's dress, among the lower class, is a cotton shirt and
trousers; the women's dress is more gay and decidedly pict
uresque; long trailing gowns of bright-hued cotton goods
cut low-neck and without sleeves, their hair combed back
over a high cushion, and this exaggerated pompadour puff
ornamented with any number of natural flowers, put in ap
parently as we stick pins in a pin-cushion.
After dinner we started for " Monkey Joe's," his commer
cial name, and on the way passed many commission houses
that deal in rubber, nuts, chocolate, beans, and so on. The
rubber is in large, round, dark-colored lumps, and most of it
well mixed with sand and small sticks. It is sewed up in
burlaps and tin-tags put on to mark it; when one of these
bundles drops into the hold of a ship it bounds up again as
if it were alive. " Monkey Joe " had no fine onca skins,
but promised to get one soon for one of our party. The
onca is the native leopard of South America, and grows to
an immense size. The markings are beautiful, and the
natives generally call them tigers. Joe's stock of live ani
mals was low ; he had only a sloth, an electric eel, and a
splendid boa-constrictor. The latter was wandering around
at will, and when a drunken native took hold of its head
and began hitting it on the floor to wake it up we left, but
not before we had seen the Sapucaia nut, which grows in a
bowl-shaped pod, with a cover that can be taken off and

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 13
put on again. The inside bark of the tree is used to make
coarse brooms for sweeping streets and such purposes. We
also secured some beetles and tonka-beans.
Para is a growing, busy place, and is bound 'to be a great
emporium, as it is a distributing point for an immense in
terior. The climate is deadly — as bad as that of the Isthmus —
and besides fevers, there is a disease called beri-beri, which
does not seem to be very well understood. A lady who
was dying of it told me it was like creeping paralysis.
Para is a name given to the city by traders, and it has now
been accepted by the government, but the original name
was Belem — Bethlehem.

II.
CITY OF MARANHAM.
A QUAINT OLD CITY THAT HAS SEEN ITS BEST DAYS — THE
STREETS AND PLAZAS — THE BISHOP'S COMFORTABLE PAL
ACE AND CHARMING GARDEN — OTHER PLACES OF IN
TEREST.
Often when picking their way over piles of rubbish and
building materials that so frequently encumber our streets, I
have heard people wish that they could once find a town
that was finished. They ought to visit Maranham, which
was our next port after Para. Maranham is finished, and is
rapidly decaying ; the city was once large and thriving, its port
filled with vessels of many nations ; but the climate and beri-beri
have done their work ; the harbor is almost deserted, and
a melancholy air of decay and mold pervades the place. The
channel is winding, and as the pilot wished to give himself all
the chances, he waited until high tide, which came at nine
o'clock in the evening.
Then, in the bright moonlight, he took us in, gradually
approaching a half-ruined old fort which was built by the

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 15
Dutch when they held this part of the coast. The fort is
built on an island, and behind it was a lovely landlocked
bay, the lights of the city gleaming in tiers on the farther
side, as the streets of the city wandered here and there on
the steep hill side. Early next morning we were on deck,
ready to go on shore, but we had to wait a few minutes for
a tropical shower to pass over. It poured down as if all
the flood-gates were oj>ened, for a few minutes, then the
heavy clouds moved on, the sun came out, the boatman
pulled the cover off his boat, and, stepping in, we were
rapidly pulled ashore.
We landed at a low, old, stone water battery, with a few
miserable cannon mounted here and there, en barbette, upon
it. From here we walked up a very steep street, and found
ourselves in a long, rather narrow plaza, with four rows of
palm trees and some scanty grass growing in it. On the side
next the bay was a long, two-storied yellow building called
the palace. Every door and window stood open, and here and
there were officers or soldiers loafing on the balconies and at
the main entrance, smoking cigarettes. There were some nice
houses on the other side of the plaza, covered with glazed tiles ;
their gardens full of flowers, with fountains and seats, the
latter made of adobe and also covered with glazed tiles. In
front of the palace we took a street-car, drawn by two tiny
mules scarcely larger than those at Para, and they took us

16 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
through narrow streets, keeping pretty well on the ridge of
the hill next the bay until we reached the Plaza Remedios.
This plaza is a large, long terrace, commanding a very
beautiful view of the harbor, with its shipping, city, and outer
bay. It is rather ill-kept, but there were a good many fine
palm trees and a fairly good statue of Goncalves Diaz, the poet.
Behind the plaza was the large stucco palace of the bishop, and
as we could catch a glimpse of a lovely garden through a gate,
we rang the bell and asked if we could see it. Antonio Cudido
da Alnerenga, bishop of Maranham, was not at home, having
gone on a trip into the interior for the benefit of his health ;
but the young man in charge, who seemed to be all alone in the
immense building, said he would show us about with pleasure.
The palace is built along two sides of a square, the other
two sides being enclosed by a brick wall, thus hiding the
lovely garden from the world, except as yon get a glimpse
through the gate. The building is a story and a half in height
or one story with a high basement, and you enter by a long
flight of steps through big double doors. The hall is a wide,
generous one, and runs clear around the building, one side
being entirely of glass to give an uninterrupted view of the
garden ; the other side has numerous doors which lead into
different rooms. We were shown a reception room and a
parlor, the furniture in each being arranged in the Spanish
style ; that is, a sofa placed against the wall, extending from

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 17
the sofa out towards the center of the room, two rows of chairs,
facing each other, and in the center of the room a table.
In the parlor there were two arrangements of this kind. The
sofa is the seat of honor, and here the most distinguished
guest sits with the host or hostess. There were plenty of em
broidered cushions on the sofas, and over one hung a picture
of the bishop in his robes. He had a fine, pleasing, Spanish
face. The chapel was neat, small and in good order ; the altar
having nothing worthy of note upon it. The dining-room was
large and cheerful, with a large stone terrace outside the
windows, and from this terrace one overlooked the Plaza
Remedios and the lovely view beyond. The garden was
divided into two parts by a terrace, the upper part being
filled with fruit trees, while the lower was a mass of bloom —
hibiscus, four-o'clocks, cypress vine, tea roses, and chrysan
themums hobnobbishly, with the numerous tropical flowers,
making the place a delight. The cistern and bath-house
were of glazed tiles and the latter looked so cool and refreshing
that one longed for a clip in the large sunken tub.
We took a car back to the street nearest the market and then
got out and walked down the very narrow, steep thing called
a street. Luckily it Avas not wider or it would have held more
dirt. We stepped into a little shop and bought some pretty
colored calabashes of a queer little old man, and in the market
2

18 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
I was tempted to buy a cunning little ring-tailed monkey, but
finally compromised by filling his paws full of bananas, and he
even took one in his tail and longed to grab more, but five
were all he could hold. There was very little fruit on the
stands and nothing else at that time of the day, so we left and
wandered around the streets, which were generally narrow and
very dirty in spite of the frequent rains.
The shops were poor, and to judge by the houses, there is
very little wealth. We stopped at a cabinetmaker's to see a
pet onca kitten and found him and his men making very pretty
furniture of a native red cedar, the odor of which was delicious.
The tools used were of the clumsiest description. Two men
were sawing a log into boards with a saw that looked as if it
were made in the time of Noah. There was nothing peculiar
about the dress of the people, except the prevalence of patch
work calico jackets among the men.

III.
CITY OF PERNAMBUCO.
AN ISLAND "WHOSE INHABITANTS ARE CONVICTS — FUNERAL
CUSTOMS — SUGAR WAREHOUSES — A BRAZILIAN POETESS —
THE CUSTOM OF KISSING AMONG THE WOMEN.
Recife, or Pernambuco, as it is now called, looks like a bit
of Holland from outside the harbor. There are the tall houses
with the steep roofs, several stories in height, with big gable
ends, and finally the narrow streets, looking like mere cracks.
It is built along a rather straight stretch of shore, and it would
be impossible to have a city there were it not for nature's help,
in the shape of a high steep-to recife, or reef of rock, which ex
tends along in front of the city, and, making a perfect break
water, leaves a long, narrow, safe harbor. It is rather narrow
for all the shipping, so each vessel has to moor, but it is large
enough, and a wonderful bit of natural work. The part of the
town next the harbor was all built by the Dutch, and the
streets are so very narrow that there is not room for two
wagons to pass. There are street-car lines on nearly all of

20 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
them, and as the streets twist and turn in all directions you
are soon deafened by the noise, bewildered as to direction, and
disagreeably hustled by passers-by. There is a broad river,
which winds about through the city, and this gives a chance
for many pretty effects, and in the new, or Brazilian part of the
city, they are utilized. Many fine bridges span the stream, and
gardens run down to it, the palace garden being especially
pretty in this respect.
We were invited to spend the day at the home of a mission
ary in the suburbs, and were very glad to shut ourselves up in
their pretty garden, eat sapodillas, talk of Brazil, and forget
all about the ship. It was a long ride in the street-cars, and we
obtained a good idea of the city. There was a fine-looking
opera-house, and just beyond it, while crossing a bridge, we
saw a flat-boat filled with convicts bound for the convict island
of San Juan de Naronha, which lies a short distance off the
coast. They were ordinary looking, dark-skinned natives, and
sat quietly in their seats. After reading all the histories of
South American countries I can find, and spending four years
on the continent, it seems to me that the native Indian, has a
good deal of belief in Kismet. After a certain amount of resist
ance he sits down, shrugs his shoulders, and submits to any
amount of what seems intolerable cruelty. These men made
me think of a herd of sheep, surrounded by vigilant, armed
guards, who sat upon the edges of the boat. I was told that

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 21
during the empire a man would not be given a life sentence,
but was ordered to San Juan to await the pleasure of the em
peror, and then the emperor would forget him.
Next we saw a hearse going to a child's funeral. It was
white, wheels and all ; was very tall, and seemed shaky and
unsteady as it rattled over the poor pavements. The coach
man was dressed in scarlet, and the windows of the hearse
were draped with thin curtains of the same hue. Another
funeral which we saw was that of a much-esteemed professor,
and he, contrary to custom, was being carried to church by
some of his friends and followed by a long line of mourners on
foot. These mourners were all men, as it does not seem to be
customary in this country for women to attend funerals, or to
go anywhere else, for that matter ; but I will speak of this
again. The streets in the new city are broad, and there were
many pretty houses in the suburbs, surrounded by gardens
filled with flowers and shaded by palm and bread-fruit trees.
The latter are very tall, with glossy, large, dark-green leaves
that have a great many points and fruit that look like enor
mous button-balls showing here and there. I mean by button-
balls the seed of the sycamore tree. The flower-gardens in
South America are not at all like ours. When a house is
built, all the grounds about it are dug up and divided off into
beds, in which beds are planted the trees and flowers. Some-

22 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
times there are tiny boxwood hedges around each bed, but
generally not. The space between them is graveled or paved
for walks, and then the grounds are complete, unless a foun
tain or statues are added. It is the rarest thing that a blade of
grass is allowed to grow, and I have only seen one house that
had what we would call a lawn: Oxen are used a great deal to
draw the long, narrow carts through the streets, and the
merchants must be a patient lot if they are satisfied to await
the delivery of their goods. The natives of the province make
very pretty pillow-lace that looks something like torchon, and
they do exquisite drawn work.
Pernambuco is a great port for the shipment of sugar, and
there were rows of storehouses for its reception while awaiting
shipment, and the odor of them was exceedingly disagreeable.
We got some pine-apples here that are famous along the coast,
and they .were very sweet, but not better than those of Toboga
Island near Panama.
When the final emancipation of the slaves was being agitated
the province of Pernambuco vied with that of Rio Grande do
Sul in being the most outspoken in favor of freedom. Many
people of the province voluntarily emancipated those they held
in bondage, and one wealthy man freed so many thab he was
ennobled by Isabella when she was Princess Imperial and
Regent. I wanted to see a slave market, but they had been
abolished before we reached the country.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF- WAR. 23
On the steamer between Pernambuco and Bahia we made
the acquaintance of a Brazilian poetess. She was short,
plump, vivacious, and, like all the women of her nation,
exceedingly fond of kissing. Every morning she would rush
up and embrace me, kissing each cheek in turn, and then
apologize by saying : " You know I am a Brazilian." She
had a nice little girl, but oh, she was so frail and delicate,
I fear she has gone aloft before now, yet hope not, for she was
her mother's idol. The husband did not count for much, a
neutral, colorless man. This custom of kissing every woman
I met did not recommend itself to me, yet it was necessary
to not only accept but practice it. However, I drew the line
at dress-makers and lace women, although one lace woman
got ahead of me by the suddenness of her attack.

IV.
CITY OF BAHIA.
VKIUVAL AT RIO JANEIRO, WHICH HAS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL
HAUBOR IN THE WORLD — A PICTURESQUE BACKGROUND
OF MOUNTAINS — SCENES AT THE CUSTOM HOUSE.
Our next port was San Salvador en Bahia de todos los
Santos, or Bahia Bay, as it is generally called. It is built
on one side of a beautiful bay, with lovely islands in it, and
consists of the lower and upper town. The lower is very
long and narrow, nestling between the bay and a steep cliff ;
it consists of three or four streets, used principally, with the
exception of the market, by large merchants who have their
storehouses there. The main part of the city is built on top
of the bluff, and extends way out into the country. We went
ashore as early as possible so as to see the market, and when
we first landed we seemed to have stepped into fairyland.
Great African negresses, some of them with tatooed faces,
sat guarding piles of luscious fruit, their large forms draped
in white cotton gowns cut low in the neck. They all wore
necklaces, bracelets, and ear-rings, and here and there was a
turban. Lounging about were their mates, who are much val-

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 25
ued as porters. They are all of pure African blood, and keep
to themselves, disdaining alliance with any other race. The
oranges these woman sold us are the finest in the world ; you
eat none like them anywhere else. They will average a
pound in weight ; the rind is soft and brittle, which prevents
their transportation — the juice, is very sweet and high-flavored ;
they are also seedless. They are the navel orange, and those
of Florida are a poor offspring of plants from Bahia ; it needs
its climate, soil, and sunny slopes to produce the perfect
fruit. There were piles of lemons, limes, pine-apples, sapo-
dillas, bananas ; vegetables of many kinds ; coops of chickens
and doves ; stalls of native pottery, red, with white ornamenta
tion ; piles of cages with small birds ; rows of parrots, cocka
toos, big blue and red macaws ; numberless monkeys, from the
tiny little marmosets to big ring-tails — -prehensile tails ; quan
tities of wicker-work; kiosks where coffee, and a number
of drinks made from different fruits were sold ; in short,
a tropical market.
We stayed there some time and then took an elevator at the
base of the bluff and were hoisted by steam to the top. Here
we found the usual Brazilian city, and we rode all about it,
finally alighting at the public gardens, which have been beauti
ful, but now are much neglected. There were some beautiful
mango and palm trees and what had been a fine lot of flower
beds, but the ants had gotten at them and not much remained.

26 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
There was a rather plain monument to the regent John, and
the remains of a large tiled terrace just on the edge of the bluff,
with broken statues and tiled seats. From here we had a
lovely view of the curving bay, with its green shores, blue
waters, and many vessels riding quietly at anchor, the whole
scene illuminated by the brilliant sun. Next the terrace was
the fort of St. George. We heard drums rolling, and a
brilliant looking officer on a white horse came out and rode
away. We visited a diamond merchant and saw some beautiful
gems from the adjacent mines, cut and uncut. This is also a
great city for the manufacture of feather-flowers ; they are
carefully made and are beautiful, because the birds of Brazil
furnish feathers of all colors and shades, as nature can be
copied very closely in unfading tints. Bundles are carried on
the head, regardless of the size. One sees a woman stalking
along with a tiny bundle poised on high, another with a
large basket of oranges, carrying it with apparently the same
ease ; but when six men get a piano on their heads they
move slowly, and are careful to keep step.
Early one morning we were awakened by a loud knocking
at the stateroom door, and a voice announced that the captain
sent his compliments, and we were to come up on the bridge
as soon as possible, for we were very near Rio. It was pitch
dark, but we scrambled into our clothes and reached the
pilot-house just as the day was breaking. To our left we

U.S. S. TALLAPOOSA, MONTEVIDEO HARBOR.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 27
could see a low island with a light-house on it, the light
burning brightly, and to the right the islands of Mai and Pai,
while in front of us rose ranges of high towering mountains,
seemingly an impenetrable mass. However, as the clay grew
brighter, we saw a broad, clean-cut opening in the nearest
chain, and this was the entrance to the most beautiful harbor
in the world. The mountains to the left of the entrance
gradually assumed the form of a giant lying on his back,
the face and feet being especially plain. Gradually the sun
began to appear, and then we were near enough to see the
beautiful, waving palms standing out from the masses of
brilliant green foliage that covered each and every mountain
from its base to its summit. Here and there a white house
caught the light and shone like a gem. In the distance
were ranges of mountains, some gray where they lay in the
shadow, some pink where the sun had reached them, varied
in shape, graceful in outline, covered with magnificent
growths. The mountains about Rio stand unequaled, unsur
passed. The water was blue as a sapphire, and as we plowed
our way through it up the bay, we first saw a fort, then, on the
opposite side of the bay, Botofoga, with its white and yellow
houses clustered about it, and from there, for miles stretching
along at the foot of the mountains, following each bend of the
slope, built over the foothills, and even extending up on to the
nearest mountains, was the bea.utiful city of Rio de Janeiro,

28 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
or Saint Sebastian, as it was formerly calle'd. The beautiful
blue waters, the curves and bends of the shore, followed by
the beautiful city, the low hills covered with gleaming white
houses, churches, and gardens, the background of beautiful
mountains that stretch north, south, and west and sweep
around the bay, and the blue sky over all, made a picture
that, once seen, you could never forget.
Did you ever cherish a dream for years and suddenly wake
to find it realized ? Well, I had dreamed of the tropics and
eagerly read all I could find about them, until my mind was
filled with dreams of waving palms, luxuriant strange growths,
forests where every tree was strange, where creepers twined
and twisted about, and the great brilliant orchid flowers vied
with the butterflies. Then I went to the tropics, and dis
appointment met me on every side, even on the Isthmus of
Panama, and I felt my dream was but a dream, never to be
realized. When, lo ! I enter the harbor of Rio, and all I
asked and more lies before me, and one can never be dis
appointed, disenchanted, for at the end of the dirtiest, narrowest
street there is always a vista of lovely mountains that is fine
enough to lift you above the dirt and bad odors. However,
the city is an unusually clean one, and the narrow streets
are not by any means as numerous as the wide ones. We
steamed past the man-of-war anchorage and slowed down off
the custom-house, while the immense mail we carried was

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 29
dropped over the side, and then we proceeded on our way up
to our own anchorage off the old part of the city. A launch
was sent for us, and taking a boat in tow, which held our
baggage, we were soon at the custom-house wharf, and were
welcomed by the officials with bows, and handed chairs to
occupy until the trunks arrived. The first thing I noticed was
the number of men going about with their jaws tied up and
plaicl shawls over their shoulders. I afterwards saw a great
many in the same rig, but never could find out what was the
matter with them. They were as grave, solemn, and polite
as the other people, yet you had to control your desire to
smile audibly as one after another struck your eye. When the
trunks came we were requested, with many bows, to be good
enough to unlock them, and here we began to practice the
system of bowing that is prevalent all over this continent. No
matter what trouble you put a person to if you smile and bow,
and say, thank you, just before leaving, they count all their
trouble as nothing. We were bowed to and thanked for
unlocking the trunks. Each tray was lifted out and imme
diately put back and the trunks locked. There were many
apologies for the trouble they had given us, and we were
profuse with our assertions that we had not been inconven
ienced. Everybody bowed and bowed, and we walked out with
a gentleman from the steamship company who had been sent
to see us safe at our hotel.

V.
RIO DE JANEIRO.
THE SUBURBS OF THE CAPITAL — BY CABLE ROAD TO THE
RESERVOIRS THAT SUPPLY THE CITY — COMFORTS OF A
BRAZILIAN HOTEL — ASCENT OF THE CORCOVADO  WON
DERFUL LAND AND SEA VIEWS.
There is one especially beautiful walk in the suburbs of Rio
de Janeiro, which is known as Santa Teresa, and we were soon
introduced to it by our friends. Leaving a street-car, or bonde,
as they are called there, in a narrow street, one enters quite a
good-sized station, placed at the foot of one of the mountains,
and finds a cable-car waiting. The platform inclines steeply,
while one end of the car is much lower than the other. The
track seems to go straight up a precipice, and is built on a
jutting ledge or spur, the cable being worked from the top.
The track is about 1,000 yards long, and as the car went up
there were lovely views of the city, bay, and mountains to
enjoy. Nictherofo a small city across the bay, looked especially
pretty, all its houses white in the dazzling sunshine. Steep

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 31
banks came close up to the track on either side, but they
were not too steep to be clothed with shrubs and trees, and
the coffee trees had berries which then were bright and red,
all ready to eat ; the pulp around the seeds tasting slightly
sweet and not unpleasant, but still a long way from our
cherries that they are likened to.
Arriving at the end of the railway, we take a bonde,
drawn by four mules, which stands waiting, and is dragged
still further up, but here the road is laid out on a sort of
natural terrace, with houses and villas on either side, some
of them boasting lovely gardens, and all commanding a
superb view of part of the city, the -upper part of the bay,
ranges of lofty mountains, and beautiful valleys over which
clouds are always floating, casting wonderful shadows. One
rich valley lies just beneath them, and one would fancy the
happy dwellers on these heights would spend all their lives
gazing on the perfect scene with never-ending delight. The
mules dash through a little town and come to a halt at the
beginning of a broad forest road, so well kept that it is
daily swept with brooms in addition to other attentions.
A few steps away is the lower reservoir for supplying the
city, which is surrounded by a pretty little garden full of
flowers. Benches are placed where they command the grand
view, and in one corner is a nice little house for the attend
ants. There are five tanks, but one is emptied each day to

32 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
clean it out, so only' four were filled with water, which was
so clear, bright, and sparkling that one doubly enjoyed
drinking it while in the city after visiting the reservoir.
On the left of the broad road is the aqueduct, built by the
Jesuits in 1746, and it is still the source of water supply
for the city, trying as best it can to keep pace with the
growing burg, in which it succeeds pretty well. It is built
of adobe as strong as stone, and is generally about five feet
high. Two cemented ducts are on the bottom of the inside,
one alwaj^s in use, and the other kept ready in case of an
accident. The roof is ridge-shaped, with dormers facing the
road. Every few feet, in the front of each of these dormers,
is a small iron grating, and by putting one's ear close to
any one of them the water can be heard running along inside.
The road follows the aqueduct and the ridge of the
mountain until it melts into another grander mountain. It
lies iii the forest its entire length ; coffee and numberless
other lovely shrubs growing in greatest profusion on either
side, while closer to the earth were delicate ferns and pretty,
strange, wild flowers ; the whole shaded by tall palms and
trees that had nothing familiar about them, some even hav
ing three-cornered trunks. The trunks and branches — enough
of the latter reaching out to arch in the road — were dotted
every here and there with orchids, plants that flourish here
on the rich moist air and have strange bright blossoms.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 33
From tree branch to tree branch hung hundreds of vines,
some of them large, some small, but all lithe and graceful,
with every here and there the trunk of a tree half smothered
in their embrace.
One can pass hours in this enchanting forest, gazing hero
and there, always discovering some new tree, plant, or other
growth that had hitherto escaped notice ; and as one passes
along the road where it winds slowly up the other mountain,
glimpses are had of the most beautiful views, ever changing,
ever glorious. No one can describe them, for words fail ; but
how we enjoyed them, and how often we returned to feast our
eyes and tried to impress upon our memories their beauty, even
taking a last walk in the rain rather than miss it !
Set close against the steep side of a cleft in the larger mount
ain is the upper reservoir, having the same arrangement of
tanks and the same beautiful water to fill them, only, instead of
the water entering by an unseen pipe, it literally comes tum
bling down from cloudland in tiny rushing streams, which are
filled each day by showers from the clouds that strike the
mountain sides or gather about its head and fall in gentle rain.
Close by a steep narrow path leads down into Larangeiras, or
Orange Valley, which is long, narrow, and filled with pretty
houses and villas, while the bonde line that runs through it
passes most of the hotels, which reminds me of our hotel, said
to be one of the best, and, judging by all we saw, it was.
3

34 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
It was two-storied, with a large entrance hall. A small
office on the left, and on the right the big low-ceiled dining-
room, where we enjoyed fresh shrimps and other dainties, sur
rounded by palms in pots, feeding two or three tame mice that
came regularly to beg, and watching the natives, — their table
manners being very good. There was a large patio behind the
hall, filled with trees, roses, and plants, and around this patio,
on the upper floor, ran a balcony closed in with blinds. Be
tween this balcony and the street were most of the rooms, some
large, some small, but the ceiling of all about fourteen feet
high. The floors were bare, the furniture good, but none of it
matched the bedstead, guiltless of springs, while the pillows
were stuffed with a sort of cotton gathered from trees, which
made them so hard that your ears ached in the morning. The
windows all opened to the floor, each of those on the street
having a little balcony. There were wooden shutters to them,
but no frames with glass. It was always too Avarm to shut
your room up, and the rain seldom beat in ; it just fell straight
down and soon ceased. The doors had shutters in them to
give better ventilation, while everything was neat and clean.
Among the many beautiful mountains that encircle the bay
and city, two seem to stand out prominently, and, catching the
eye day after day, claim your attention. Both are peculiar in
shape, and their names are descriptive. First comes Fan de
Azucar, or Sugar-loaf, its great gray cone of rock sticking up

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 35
smooth and pointed, like an old-time sugar-loaf after the wrap
ping of indigo paper was removed. Its precipitous sides are
so difficult to scale that only hair-brained people attempt it.
Others are satisfied to admire from a distance and enjoy the
contrast the bare rock makes with the tropical forest of the
surrounding peaks. The other was Corcovado, or the Hunch
back, which bade us good-morning every day when we opened
our windows. On the summit is what looks from below like a
tiny open building, with a pagoda-shaped roof. Near the sum
mit was a terrace, along which we sometimes saw a short train
of cars making its way.
The city station for this railway is near the upper end of
Larangieras Valley, a nice little building with a pretty garden
in front. The trains, which run up and down several times a
day, consist of an engine and a windowless car, with seats run
ning across it. The track has three rails, the outer ones smooth
and the inner one cogged. The trains run very slowly and the
slight jar that the cog-wheel makes fitting into the center rail
is very disagreeable. Otherwise the ride is a delight. There
are two stations, and at the first one, named Sylvester, the cars
stop on such a steep incline that there are slats nailed on the
station platform to keep passengers from slipping as they walk
along it. n
The second station, near the summit, is called Peinares.
Here there is a small hotel, with a pretty garden and a

36 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
shooting gallery. It takes an hour to make the trip up,
the grade being sometimes nearly 45 degrees, and the sum
mit 2,300 feet above the sea. Naturally, the train goes
slowly, but it is not half slow enough; one would like to
crawl through these beautiful forests, so as to see more of
their beauties and wonders ; the beautiful, strange trees,
some of immense height and girth, some a mass of blos
soms ; foliage of all shades of green, from silver white,
like our poplars, to the glossy blue-green of the magnolia
grandiflora. The trunks are round, triangular, small, large,
straight and smooth, crooked and gnarled; here, so close
together that they twine around one another ; there, far
apart; some have every branch half covered with orchids of
many varieties, while others are draped with Spanish moss
or are clean as if polished. There are gorgeous blossoms on
the orchids, and some of the vines boast lovely ones, too.
These vines are quite a feature of the forest. They are
so numerous and so graceful ; one enterprising cabinetmaker
in the city collected pieces of over 100 varieties, and polish
ing the cut ends, made mosaic tops for two tables. One he
presented to the emperor, and he keeps the other in his
show-room. It is a beautiful piece of work, some of the
vines showing different colors in their stems and odd growths.
The floor of the forest is carpeted with green plants, espe
cially ferns, in the greatest variety, from the delicate pale

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 37
green, tiny leaves on hair-like stems to the grand tree-fern
with a great whorl of delicate leaves, six and seven feet long,
springing from the soft brown trunk, which sometimes grows
to a height of ten or twelve feet.
There are glorious views of mountains, valleys, and ba}rs
through the trees, so, when the train stops, just below the
summit, every one eagerly hurries up the few remaining feet,
anxious to reach the little house and have an uninterrupted
view. When the house is reached it proves to be a large
circular iron pavilion, built by the railway company for a
restaurant, but it did not pay and has been abandoned.
Custom was too irregular, as, on days when Corcovado is
partly or entirely hidden by clouds, of course no one ascends
to get the view, and cloudy days at the summit are very
numerous. A few feet below the building a point of rock
juts toward the sea on the precipitous side of the mountain.
It is protected by an adobe wall, and from here one gets the
view he has come so far for.
To the east, away down below, close to the base, lay part
of the city and the botanical gardens; farther out, the har
bor's mouth, with its two ends of the inner circle of mount
ains, some green islands outside, one with a light-house on
it ; and then the blue sea, stretching away to the horizon ;
to the north the main part of the city, the long, narrow
part of the harbor, which was mistaken for a river by the

38 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
first discoverers and called Januarjr River — Rio de Janeiro—
the islands in it and the town of Nictheroy on the farther
side ; to the west a range of mountains, close at hand, hid
all but the peaks of the far-off ranges and their own lovely
woods ; to the south the ranges of mountains extending down
the coast, some outlying islands, and the sea.
We gazed untired until the shrill Avhistle of the engine
called us back to the train, which went down slowly until
it reached Peinares. Here it waits for the train coming up,
and gives time for a cup of coffee in the pretty garden, a
good long look at the eastern view, and a stroll along a road
in the forest, by the side of which grew wild, double white
roses and ferns in profusion. I wonder why it is that people
who have been to Rio" always rave over the botanical gardens,
to the exclusion of all other natural beauties. Is it because
those avenues of palms make such beautiful photographs ?
It is a lovely spot, with stretches of greensward, rare trees,
plants, and orchids. It is set close at the foot of a mount
ain, and the gardeners wage eternal warfare against the
forest to keep it from encroaching. There are walks shaded
by bamboo hedges, that meet in a graceful arch overhead,
and then there are those three royal avenues of royal palms,
straight and tall, each silvery white trunk rising from its
bed of green sod, its graceful tuft of leaves, like long
uncurled ostrich plumes, moving softly in the breeze. They

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 39
are wonderfully beautiful after one has learned to appre
ciate palms, and forgotten that Mark Twain said a palm
tree looked like an umbrella struck by lightning — and here
one is introduced to them in a striking manner, for, after
leaving the bonde, we enter at a large, fine gateway and
straight before us is the main avenue. To the right and
left stretch the two side avenues, making a letter T. There
were numbers of butterflies flitting about, but no flowers,
at least but a few, and how one misses them ! To a bota
nist or forest student the place would be entrancing, but as
an ordinary traveler, who enjoys best what suits his indi
vidual fancy, I prefer the wild forest.

VI.
RIO DE JANEIRO.
IT IS A CLEANLY CITY, TOO — PECULIARITIES OF ITS HORSE-
CAR SYSTEM — STREET VENDORS AND HOW THEY CRY
THEIR WARES — THE POLICEMAN'S WAR-WHOOP AND
WHAT IT MEANS.
Like an undulating, curving ribbon of white jewels,
between the emerald green of the forest-covered mountains
and the deep blue waters of the bay, lies the city of Rio de
Janeiro. Surely never had a city so lovely a site before ; the
glorious sweep of magnificent mountains around its bay, with
farther ranges showing behind them, until the pipe-like peaks
of the Organ range show blue and shadowy in the far distance.
Everywhere that your eye turns, whether you are on the blue
bay or ashore, a lovely picture of mountains, forest, blue
waters, and gleaming white houses greets you. And the
forests that cover these mountains! They are ideal; not only
because of their beauties, their strangeness, and rich coloring,
but also because of their accessibility ; because one can walk

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 41
about in them, enjoy the trees, flowers, ferns, and numberless
strange growths, as well as those that are familiar to us, and
bring a breath of homesickness with their forms, reminding
us of the distance we have come and the time of exile before
us. Happiest when warmest, I have always longed for and
dreamed of the tropics, but I never found the ideal tropics
until we arrived in Rio. No wonder that imperialism lingered
there ; its last stronghold on this continent. Nowhere else
had it such a city, such a crown of mountains, and such a
convenient harbor to sail from when the clay of reckoning
came. Our first evening ashore was spent in the large fine theater
of Dom Pedro II., listening tp " Hamlet "given by an excellent
Italian dramatic troupe.
I was surprised at the cleanliness of the city. It may not
be properly sewered, but it is clean, and a great many of the
streets are wide. All are well paved, with good sidewalks,
and there is a most excellent street car service. There are
three kinds of street cars — the open ones, nicely painted
and appointed, in which one pays ten cents for a ride, and
must have shoes and stockings on. The second-class or bare
foot cars, which are closed, have a tariff of five cents for a ride.
These cars run on regular routes and follow the rails laid
down in the streets. The horses and mules are good, and
there are enough of them to draw the cars, so it is not necessary

42 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
for the drivers to beat them, and the company does not allow
the men to have whips. Crowding is not allowed, and
when a car is full, it will not stop for any one. The third
class is a kind of open car mounted on big wheels, and they
all seem to start from the large market down on the wharves
at one side of the Praca da Marinhas. They have a destination
which is announced on a little board which the conductor
hangs on to the roof before starting. They also seem to
have regular routes, but leave them at the request of any
passenger. These carry the lowest classes, chiefly slaves and
street vendors with their heavy packages or baskets.
These street vendors are a great institution, and I suppose
the street traffic grew up when women were so strictly con
fined to their houses, and now these peddlers are almost
entirely depended upon for household supplies. It is quite
the proper thing to hang out of the window or lean over the
edge of your balcony all the afternoon to watch the passers-by.
We took to it most kindly, and as strangers took a certain
amount of latitude and spent nearly all day on our balconies,
enjoying the soft, warm air, the view of Corcovado mountain
and life in the streets.
When merchandise is carried in baskets they are hung by
ropes to either end of a pole, and the pole balanced on one
shoulder. Meat is carried either in these or on a shallow tray,
fish in baskets, and vegetables the same. The different sized

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 43
fish are put in different sized baskets, and these are piled on
top of one another in two piles before being attached to the
pole. The largest fish are in the top basket, and I often
watched a vendor separate his baskets until he reached the
bottom one, where the fish were scarcely more than minnows,
to sell some to an old man who had a shop opposite to our
hotel and bought fresh fish every morning for his two pet
cats. It was great fun to watch him do his morning marketing.
Such a fuss as he and the vendor would make over the
purchase of a bunch of turnips, a few red peppers, or some tiny
tomatoes. They would argue, quarrel, scream, and pull the
contents of the baskets all about. He would run down every
thing the man had and the man praise everything, until finally
a bargain would be struck and the money, which seldom
amounted to more than a few cents, handed over. He spent
quite as much on his cats as on himself. Chickens are carried
in covered baskets, and so are pigeons, while turkeys are driven
in droves by one or two boys, armed with light bamboo sticks.
Each peddler has his own peculiar cry, so that one could
tell what was being carried past without going to the window.
There is the tin man, who strikes an iron spoon against a
small tin basin as he walks, and the soap man, who raps the
side of a box that he carries on his head with a stick and calls
out, " Soap ! Soap ! " The dry-goods men have their wares
in small tin trunks that are painted bright colors.

44 ALONG SII011E WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
Sometimes they carry three and even four of them on their
backs, bending almost double beneath the Aveight. If well to
do they have a slave to carry their -trunks — or at least used to
— and walk ahead of him, calling attention by slapping a
jointed yard-stick together at every step. Cobblers go about
and collect shoes that need mending, stringing them all on
a piece of twine, and, after a few days, they bring them back in
good order.
Negroes pass along with trays balanced on their heads
which are filled Avith candy done up in tissue paper of differ
ent colors. This candy is made in private houses — often by
the ladies — and the negroes must bring back a certain amount
of money for each piece sold. Whatever they make over that
they are allowed to retain. It is generally in the form of yel
low transparent balls that have no especial flavor and are
warranted to last a long while, as biting them is impossible.
These balls are all the candy one can get in the city except
stale imported French candied fruits.
Instead of milk wagons cows are driven about the streets,
each coav having a muzzled calf tied to her tail and a bell tied
to her neck. This latter announces her approach and brings
the servants to the doors and gates with bowls or pitchers,
and one little French baby, that lived near us, always came
out to see his coav and say good-morning to her. Slippers
which are far too narrow and about half the length of the foot

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 45
take the place of shoes with the lower and middle classes.
There is no heel piece, and consequently at every step the
heel of the slipper taps the sidewalk, and this noise, while slight,
is so continuous that the ear marks it and it soon becomes
one of the familiar sounds that one grows accustomed to.
As a startling diversion, at times, there comes an unearthly
yell from the policeman on guard outside the station. At
first Ave took it for the announcement of a discovered murder,
but it proved to be a simple request to be relieved — a vocal
statement that his time was up and he was tired of trudging
up and doAvn with a heavy gun and bayonet. A few moments
after the war-whoop sounded another policeman would saunter
out, take a musket from the rack near the door and take the
place of number one. A different scream turned the guard
out when any cabinet officer passed. The cabinet officers
were always to be told by two mounted orderlies that fol
lowed the carriage of each one.
Mules are quite as much used as horses ; they look quite
nice and seem to have fully as much spirit, if one may judge
by the number of runaAvays.
If one wishes to call the attention of any one in the street or
a Avaiter in a restaurant one makes a long, low, hissing noise,
which seems to attract attention much more quickly than
our halloo.
We would hardly think of going to a tinsmith at home for

46 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
a trunk, but that is Avhat one must do here, and they give you
a very gorgeous article for your money. As a rule the tin is
left unpainted inside and all the artist's attention given to
the outside. The favorite shades for the body color are rose
pink and pale blue ; a bunch of flowers or a landscape covers
half the lid and each of the four sides is similarly decorated.
It makes conspicuous luggage, to say the least, and as the
trunks are small, a family requires a great number and the
sight of a family going to the railroad station, their bodies
piled inside and the trunks outside, is quite astonishing.
Immense loads are carried on their heads by the porters.
Six men will pick up a piano, set it on their heads and jog off
Avith it, keeping perfect step and carrying their necks erect
under Avhat looks like a crushing burden. Chairs — jnles of
them — marble-top tables, wardrobes, all sorts of heavy things
are set on their heads and generally there are only two men
to a load. It makes one's neck ache to Avatch them.
It is always warm weather, so the poor dress in thin cotton
clothes and they seem to enjoy life and be a jolly set, but I
suppose it is because only the fittest survive, as I am told that
the death rate among infants is from 70 to 80 per cent., but
that once one reaches thirty years of age one is generally
certain of long life. There are many fine public buildings,
especially the custom-house and post-office on the First of
March Street.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 47
The houses are pretty because they always have a garden
filled Avith blooming plants and palms, and anything would
look pretty in such a setting, otherwise I did not admire
them. The rooms are good sized, and furniture made from
the fine natural woods is much used and very handsome.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.

VII.
RIO DE JANEIRO.
THE HOTELS OF TIJUCA — FINE SUBURBAN SCENERY  THE
NEW PALACE — AN INTERESTING MUSEUM — CURIOUS MAR
RIAGE CUSTOMS — THE STATUS OF MARRIED WOMEN.
OuviDOR is the name of the brilliantly lined alley, which
is called a street, and is the fashionable shopping place in
Rio. It is so narrow that carts are only alloAved along it
very early in the morning, and during the remainder of the
day people walk about in the street or on the sidewalk at
will. There are many gas-pipe arches across it at intervals,
so that it may be Avell illuminated, and it is well paved.
The shops are the finest in the city, mostly kept by French
people, and full of articles from Paris. Two corner stores
make a fine display of diamonds, and here one has the
privilege of buying native stones for a little more than they
cost in New York. One store is filled with curiosities and
native work, baskets from Minas, carved gourds, feather work

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 49
from the Amazons, humming birds, all kinds of beetles — in
short, a great variety of articles. A great many shops have
beautiful photographs of the Avonderful scenery in and about
tl.3 city, but they, like everything else in the stores, are
excessive in price, so one does not buy much even after
becoming accustomed to the money.
At first to see an ordinary article marked 10,000 reis
staggers one until it is translated into $5 ! They speak only
of reis, and it takes twenty of them to make one of our cents,
besides the exchange in our favor, which makes them a little
less. There is quite a large plaza at one end of the Ouvidor,
named San Francisco, Avith a fine, large church facing on it
that Ave never could find open. In the center of the garden
is a statue which, I Avas told, was erected to honor the Thomas-
Jefferson of Brazil. It has gas-pipes leading all about the
pedestal for purposes of -illumination. Only a block aAvay is
another large plaza, with a fine colossal equestrian statue of
Dom Pedro in the center. Around the base are four bronze
groups representing the rivers of Brazil, composed of one or
more of the Indians that inhabit the banks and fish for
turtle that live in the waters. You will find a picture of it
in Harper's Magazine for November, 1887, page 901. The
Avriter evidently got his pictures, as well as his facts, some
what mixed. From the plaza — or largo in Portuguese — of
San Francisco all the car lines for the northern part of the
4

50 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
city start, and quite early one morning Ave started from
there for Tijuca, Avhich divides the honors with Petropolis as
being the favorite resort in summer for the people of Rio,
and is only a feAV miles distant in the mountains.
Petropolis entertains the court in summer, but in winter
there is nothing there and it is not easily accessible, whereas
the nearness to the city and lovely scenery fills the hotels at
Tijuca all the year round. The streets in the northern section
are the narrowest in the city; the private houses are not as
good as a class, but there are many storehouses and factories,
especially those for furniture. The first sign of the approach
ing country is the gradual enlarging of the gardens about the
houses, and finally they merge into farms, with the half-
ruined, neglected look that is so common in the tropics,
where vegetation is so rank and rapid in groAvth that it is
almost impossible to keep a trim garden or yard. There Avere
a good many fine houses and some that Avere anything but fine,
yet the vegetation veiled and hid defects until every one
seemed inviting and beautiful. At the base of the foot-hills
our tAvo mules were changed for four, and our driver with an
ordinary Avhip, for one with excellent lungs and a whip, the
lash of which Avas longer than the car.
Under their combined influence Ave spun along for a short
time, and at the end of the route found a vehicle something
between an omnibus and a diligence waiting. Every one

GROUP OF PALMS, PARA, BRAZIL.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 51
clambered into it, horses were brought out from the stable, and
Avith their aid Ave began to climb the beautiful mountain side.
There were the same loArely forests about us as on Corcovado.
The ferns, palms, vines, orchids and flowers ; the soft, Avarm,
yet exhilarating air ; beautiful views of valley and sea, framed
by the trees about us ; a good road which rang with the horses'
footsteps ; here and there a country residence, an occasional
stream leaping down toward a valley; everything the eye
rested on was beautiful. We crossed the summit of a mountain,
and driving down a little way, came to Whyte's Hotel, which
is a collection of large adobe buildings set on a terrace close
in among the mountain peaks, with a ravine in front through
which rushes a pretty stream, its noise filling the still, clear air
all night and clay. The ravine is spanned by several bridges,
one of them leading to a path bordered by SAveet violets, Avhich
ends at the broad piazza in front of the original hotel. This
piazza is so Avide that it is furnished, and forms the favorite
lounging place of guests. The balconies out of our rooms
overhung the brook, and we sat there for some time enjoying
the scene, until it was cool enough to Avalk ; then Ave Avent a
long way down one of the roads, passing through a tiny village,
and being invited into his orange grove by a man Avho alloAved
us to pick all the fruit and flowers we wanted. The views
were beautiful and extensive, while we filled our hands with
delicate forns and wild flowers.

52 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
Returning to the hotel, we climbed one of the peaks back of
it, and leaving the narrow path, went quite a distance into the
forest, enjoying the vieAvs and growths so much that we only
waited for the moon to rise, after dinner, before Ave Avere off
again. In the neAV light everything looked different and still
more beautiful, if that were possible. I wish I could describe
it to you, but one who has never spent a moonlight night in the
tropics could form no idea of it from any words at my command,
it is all so entirely different from our scenery at home — not one
familiar object. And here, near Rio, the very stars are different
from those that Avatch over us at home ; here we have lost the
" clipper " that points to the north star, and in its place two
brilliant points of gold lead your eyes to the bright, one-sided
Southern Cross.
Early next morning Ave were obliged to return to the city, but
had a lovely ride through the forest in the fresh morning air,
and noticed, as Ave neared the city, the new palace, surrounded
by extensive grounds, so a few clays afterward we went out to
see Avhat the place was like. The palace itself is a large, square,
two-storied building, not an imposing structure at all. There
are large iron gates for official visitors, but they are only used
on such occasions as the family generally use one of the small
side doors. The building is light yellow in color, and so is the
small guardhouse for the company of soldiers which stands a
short distance away at the head of the broad avenue Avhich leads

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 53
up from the entrance gate. Between this guard-house and the
palace is a large circular graveled space. The house and grounds
were bequeathed to the Emperor by a rich Portuguese, and the
grounds could be made lovely if enough money was spent on
them. Here and there are a grassy slope, an avenue of trees or bam
boo, and a grotto Avith a small lake ; but there are also so many
rough, weedy, uncultivated spots that there is no effect : each
view is spoiled. Quite a nice beginning for a zoological garden
is in one place, half hidden by trees, the monkeys and leopards
being especially fine. The interior of the palace Ave never saAv,
as ordinary visitors are not admitted when the family are there,
and we were obliged to leave the city tAvo days before the one
set for our presentation on the diplomatic reception night.
Santa Anna Park pleased me more than any of the others, per
haps because it is more like Central Park glorified. The
stretches of greensward, lakes, fountains, bridges, clumps of
trees and blooming shrubs, peacocks strutting about, pretty
ducks in the lakes, and comfortable benches in the shade, all
made a lovely spot to walk about and lounge in.
The city museum faces the park ; it is a large building,
Avith most interesting collections in it. There were great
numbers of well-mounted stuffed birds, quite a good showing
of monkeys, a fair lot of fish, and some very curious min
erals, while the collection of Indian articles, which filled

54 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
two large rooms, was unusually fine and interesting. There
Avere various curious arroAvs with wooden, stone, and iron
heads, but the shaft generally of bamboo ; tall, slender bows,
canoes, shields, models of huts, and much gorgeous feather
work, a mantle and many head-dresses, Avhose long ends
must have reached to the heels of the savage chieftains.
The wands, which Avere said to be those of office, were long
and slender, covered entirely Avith feathers, generally of a
brilliant red.
There were numbers of dried human heads, Avhich are the
scalp-locks of many tribes of South American savages ; they
cut the head off their late enemy and take all the bones out
through the neck, then they dry and tan it over a small
mould, filling the nostrils so that they stand out, and clos
ing the eyelids ; they are perfectly black and seem to be
come like leather, the long hair is left -on and fancy knotted
strings put through the lips. There is one of these heads
in the Gibb's collection of Peruvian articles in the Metro
politan Museum in Central Park. There Avere curious burial
pots of red earthemvare from the Island of Marajo, rudely
shaped — an attempt at the human form — about two and a
half feet high. The bones are packed in them in a sort of
cement or clay, and to get them in such a small place they
must remove every bit of the flesh.
One good-sized case was filled Avith articles seized quite

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 55
recently by the police of Rio, in two or three raids which
were made among the negroes to break up idolatry, and
they were found using these articles in their form of wor
ship. They Avere mostly cloths, knives, and beads, as the
idol would generally disappear, some one secreting it quickly,
but there Avere two figures, rudely carved out of Avood, and
both about two feet high. One had a bowl on his head and
looked quite peaceful, while the other had his right hand
raised, and a knife in it as if about to strike.
Near our hotel Avas one of the numerous pretty parks, facing
which was a large, fine church, surrounded by a garden and
approached by a fine flight of steps. On the pediment Avas a
large bas-relief of a scene in Heaven. God, seated on a throne,.
is leaning forward to place a crown of roses on the head of the
Virgin Mary, who kneels in front of him, Avhile angels and saints
stand about in groups. The interior decorations are simple,.
but fairly good, and arranged so as not to interfere Avith the fine
proportions of the interior. It is a favorite church for weddings,,
and very numerous are the wreaths and bouquets of artificial
orange-blossoms that adorn the different altars, placed there as
offerings by brides.
A number of carriages, lined with white, and drawn by Avhite
horses, passing the hotel, meant a bridal party, and if we went at
once to the church Avere in time to see the ceremony. Once or
twice sufficed, however, as there are no bridesmaids, nor any

56 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
pretty procession and group about the altar. The bride wears
white ; the rest of the female members of the family and friends
leave their bonnets at home and wear their Sunday gOAvns. The
groom and other men wear eArening dress, and the Avhole party
cluster pell-mell about the altar and watch the knot tied. The
bride is supposed to be supported by a married friend Avhom she
asks to take charge of her, but everybody takes charge of
everybody, and the finale is a grand kissing-time. All the men
kiss the groom, the women the bride, and then they kiss indis
criminately. They marry very young, the brides averaging
from tAvelve to sixteen, and a Avoman of twenty is quite an
old maid. They have large families, and the Avomen pass their
lives in their houses and gardens.
It is only a feAv years since they began to go out upon the
street Avithout the attendance of husband, father, or brother,
and even yet the very best families keep their Avomen much
secluded. If a gentleman calls on a lady, she will not receive
him unless her husband is at home, and some ten years ap-o
every man, when he left his house, locked the gate and took the
key Avith him, and his family was thus confined to the house and
garden until his return ; and some years before that, if he went
into the country for a trip, he took his wife to a large convent
near the public gardens, gave her to the nuns to keep, taking a
receipt for her, and when he came back he gave up his receipt
and got his wife.

,^^^^^-^^^a--:^S^""'

r

RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 57
Things are gradually changing for the better, as far as the
treatment of women is concerned ; they begin to marry a little
older, and thus have a chance to get a little education of all
kinds, and are better fitted to be companions to their husbands.
They are also allowed more liberty, and consequently behave
better ; their freedom is coming slowly, but surely. They seem
intelligent, and more than Avilling to learn the few accomplish
ments they are taught. They have good figures, and a good
many handsome faces look at you from the balconies and gardens.
The men are short in stature and dark — a great deal too dark
sometimes, as there seems no objection to negro blood among the
Brazilians. One of the cabinet, I Avas told, was two-thirds
negro. The dislike to such blood seems stronger in the States
than anywhere else.
There Avas said to be an epidemic of small-pox, and every day
the papers contained quite a list of deaths from it, Avhile any
number of funerals passed the hotel, but they were almost
entirely children who had never been vaccinated, or persons who
had exposed themselves in the slums. We never saAV a person
who had recently had it. In short, people Avere more scared
than hurt. The funerals were varied, from the tiny baby in the
scarlet coffin, unattended, to the large purple velvet gold-trimmed
box, buried in flowers, and followed by a long file of carriages
headed by a coach that belonged to the imperial family, and
sent as an empty compliment to the cast-off body of the

58 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF- WAR.
Emperor's faithful follower. The coffins are long, narrow,
shallow boxes of Avood, over which are nailed red cloth for chil
dren and purple for other people. The cover is a wedge-shaped
frame, over which cloth is stretched and nailed, making a flimsy,
queer-shaped coffin. In cases of extra display all the edges are
bordered Avith gold lace.
The idea of a funeral wreath seems to be to have it as large
as possible, Avith long streaming bows of ribbon tied to it.
They are often made of artificial bead or feather flowers in spite
of the abundance of natural beauties. The hearses are gor
geous, especially those for children, Avhich are painted scarlet,
while those for grown people are black and shiny, with tufts of
black plumes on the roofs and on the horses' heads. Only men
follow the body, in carriages, except in the case of young chil
dren, when their playmates seem to go too, and cany bunches of
fresh flowers. There were too many deaths from contagious
diseases to make a visit to the cemeteries other than foolhardy,
so I never saw an interment.

VIII.
THE RIO DE LA PLATA.— MONTEVIDEO.
THE STREETS AND HOUSES OF THE METROPOLIS — A CITY OF
PRETTY GIRLS  CURIOUS DOMESTIC AND SOCIAL USAGES 
HOW THE COOKING AND LAUNDRY WORK ARE DONE.
With deep regret Ave said fareAvell to lovely Rio, and stand
ing on the deck of the steamer, southward bound, our little
group watched, in the silence of. sorrow, its beauties one by one
fade from our view — the city, harbor, mountains — all vanished,
and Avhen we finally turned about to go below, the coast only
showed as a low-lying cloud on the horizon. Yet Ave had the
comforting assurance that Ave should once again visit this
Garden of Eden, for, in this part of the world, if all roads do
not lead to Rome, all steamship lines do go to Rio, and on our
Avajr home we were sure to stop there.
The next day we wished ourselves back more vehemently
than ever, for heavy black clouds came rolling up from the
southwest, with every now and then a brilliant flash of light
ning darting through them, and by contrast intensifying their

60 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
blackness. On they swept, and we soon were dancing, tum
bling, and rolling about in the midst of a pampero ; the rain
passed quickly, and then the Avind blew a gale for three days,
and Ave Avere well inside the mouth of the Rio de la Plata before
we found weather and water to suit every one.
The Rio de la Plata always seemed to me more of an estuary
than a river. Its water is muddy, and there is a strong, steady
current, but there is such a vast expanse of water that one does
not notice the current, and when one can navigate a river for
forty-eight hours without seeing land on either side, or in fact
anyAvhere on the horizon, one needs to be a navigator to know
where he is, or else to have a believing spirit to accept what is
stated as a fact.
The first glimpse we had of land was of the Lobos Islands,
tAvo low, rocky islets surrounded by dangerous reefs, and getting
their name of Lobos — seal — from the fact that they are a great
resort in Avinter for seals that come up from the south and breed
there in quantities. A certain number are taken every year, and
there are buildings on the larger island for curing skins and try
ing out oil, and a corral of stout logs into Avhich the animals
are driven to be killed with clubs. The killing season is from
May 15 to October 15, and the average take is 14,000, for which
the government receives $10,000, and the port of Maldonado a
certain amount of skins and oil to the general value of about
$3,000.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 61
On account of the seals no lighthouse is allowed on the islands,
and many ships are wrecked on their reefs, but the government
of Uruguay prefers its income to saving the merchant marine of
other nations from disaster.
Uruguay — or, as it is officially called, Republica Oriental del
Uruguay, from its being on the oriental bank of the river — is a
small but wonderfully fertile and rich country, which only
needs more people, law, and order to Aoav with milk and honey.
In the northern and eastern parts there are mountains, and
the rest is Avhat looked to us, Avith our memories of Brazilian
mountains, a dead, monotonous level, but in reality it is a rich,
rolling plain, covered with fine succulent grasses, on Avhich the
herds of cattle thrive and fatten. One never gets to the mount
ainous regions, because there is no grand river highway to lead
people and commerce to them, and they are comparatively unde
veloped. Only a few adventurous spirits or miners take the long
stage coach and horseback rides, and the reports they bring back
are not such as to tempt one, yet they report the country as beauti
ful and the mines rich. In short, the little republic can boast of a
well-watered land, rich soil, good climate, and fine landscapes ; in
fact, it is a land where every prospect pleases and only man is — •
well, he is not exactly vile, but certainly not pleasant to live
with, for his ways are not ours. A republic in name and Avith-
out some of the bad features of a monarchy, but personal politics,
arms at the polls, good laws badly enforced, revolutions, and a

62 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
state church, all combined, make anything but an ideal republic.
Of course I am now speaking of the people as a nation, for in
dividually the gente decente, or better class, are delightful.
Their country is still young and they had a bad start. Fancy
Avhat our country Avould have been if only the poorer class of
Spaniards had settled here and intermarried with the Indians,
and Ave had only these people to form our republic ! — what a
fine mess Ave should have made of it ! — instead of Avhich we had
English, Dutch, French, and Spanish blood and all sorts of
creeds, each one holding the other in check and forming a com
mon front against the Indians, and then when Ave had formed
the nucleus of a nation and accomplished our independence, in
our hour of need Ave had patriots and statesmen to start us on the
right road, and we have grown until our nation is the guiding
star of all republics and a menace to all monarchies.
On the morning of our sixth day out from Rio Ave arriA^ed at
Montevideo, and what a peculiar picture it was that greeted us
as Ave came on deck to see the city. Everything Avas gray : the
sky covered with heavy gray clouds, the city of gray adobe, the
water breaking against the shore, the surrounding country, all
gray, and looking so cold and dreary. The chill wind of early
spring whistled through the rigging, and Ave got ashore as soon as
possible to look for something cheering, as this Avas to be our
headquarters for several years.
The city is built on a long, low point of land shaped

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 63
something like a whale's back, having the river on one side
and the bay on the other. The bay is semicircular and shallow,
large vessels having to lie a great distance from the Avharves,
and, as the water is liable at any time to be blown into foaming
billows by strong Avinds, for about nine months of the year
landing and shipping cargo is uncertain and risky, and it Avas
no uncommon thing for naval officers to be detained several
days on shore who had only intended stopping for a dinner
or a dance, so a man living in his evening togs at the hotel
Avas no unusual sight.
On the point of the bay opposite the city is the mount from
which the city gets its name of Montevideo, or Mount Isee.
It is a bare, grass-grown hill, Avith an old fort and lighthouse
on its summit, while at its feet cluster the houses and sal-
aderos of the suburb known as Cerro. The wharves are good,
and lead directly up to the narrow streets of the old part of
the city, Avhich is built on the point. As I said before, the
Avind was cold, so every one stepped along briskly and there
was color in their cheeks, quite cheering to look at after the
pale faces of Rio ; and oh ! how pretty the Montevideo girls
are ! especially Avhen about fifteen or sixteen ; such plump
little pigeons, with large dark eyes, SAveet smiles, and perfectly-
fitting gowns — a little too fond, perhaps, of covering their
pretty skins Avith cosmetics, but very pretty, sweet, and
attractive, all the same.

64 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
The streets are paved with gray stones, the narrow sidewalks
covered with gray flagging, the houses built with thick,
heavy walls made of rough kiln-burnt brick and covered with
gray adobe both outside and in. The inner Avails are generally
frescoed Avith some arabesque design in colors that are put on
with the aid of stencil-plates. The majority of the edifices are
one story in height, although many of the modern ones boast
of tAvo and even three.
The Italian workmen model and carve the stucco until some
of the fronts look like masses of beautiful stone carving, Awhile
only the poorest are quite without ornament of this kind.
Often the foundation, or all the basement, is faced Avith slabs
of marble, Avhile the steps, cloor and window frames are of the
same material. The windows have heavy gratings over them,
and generally a Venetian blind betAveen the grating and sash.
The doors are heavy and solid, and the big bolts to secure
them, like those on the windows, are heavy and clumsily made.
The door, which is generally the only entrance and exit, is
ordinarily put on one side of the street front of the house,
and leads into a hall. The rest of the street front is taken up
by a big room, Avhich is used for the parlor. The hall is as
long as this room is deep, and terminates in a patio or open
court, which may or may not have a glass roof — usually not.
In this front patio is the aljibe — cistern — which receives its
water from the flat roof. It is made as ornamental as possible,

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 65
Avith pretty blue and white tiles around and an arch of fancy
iron Avork over it. In the center of the arch hangs a chain, to
Avhich is attached a bucket. The floor of the patio is of marble
or brick, and many pots of flowers and plants cluster about
the Avails. From here doors lead into the different rooms,
and these doors are partly of glass, as through them comes
all the light and air that the rooms get, there being no Avindows.
Behind this front patio there is another, connected by a
passageway ; out of this open more rooms and the kitchen,
Avhich is a small, dark place like a closet. At one end is a
tiled shelf, in which are sunk two or more small, grated iron
baskets. These are from four to six inches square, and in
them the fire for cooking is made, Avood and charcoal alone
being used.
It is a study to one used to our stoves and ranges to see how
many courses a cook will prepare over those tiny fires. I have
watched them with admiration. Bread and cake are bought of
the baker, but occasionally, in the country, one sees low round
ovens built in the yard, and in these a fire is made, the ashes
raked out, and the bread baked, as our grandmothers had it
done. Laundry Avork is not done in the house, so the clothes are
given to an ironing Avoman, who sub-lets the washing part to a
washwoman, this latter taking them down to the riArer bank.
Here she kneels down, splashes them in the river, soaps,

66 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
splashes again, and then laying them in a wooden tray, or on a
stone, she beats them Avith a Avooden mallet, wielding it Avith
all her strength, the consequence being holes everywhere, and
no color left in anything that originally boasted it. Then the
articles are spread flat on the shore or hung on lines close by,
after which they are taken back to the ironing-woman, Avho
eventually returns the remains to you.
The rooms of the family often have fine furniture and
beautiful ornaments, but carpets outside the parlor are rare,
while a fire-place or stove anywhere in the house is considered
an abomination by the natives, who declare that a fire is
unhealthy. In fact, their houses are built and their lives
ordered stricy Avith a view to keeping cool, which, as they
have five months of winter, during which they go about blue
Avith cold, and give you icy hands to press, seems to the
stranger like a serious mistake. When making calls, at this
season, one will find whole families receiving all clad in heavy
garments, the women with their hands in muffs and their
pretty little slippers on foot-warmers, while the gentlemen
luxuriate in overcoats.

IX.
SCENES IN MONTEVIDEO
STREETS, SQUARES, AND PLAZZAS OF THE URUGUAYAN CAPITAL
 INSIDE THE HALLS OF CONGRESS — REMINISCENCE OF
PRESIDENT SANTOS — HIS EXILE AND DEATH — THE GREAT
FESTIVAL OF CORPUS CHRISTI — OPEN SALE OF LOTTERY
TICKETS — THE VARIOUS CLUB-HOUSES.
" Twenty-fifth of May " is the principal shopping street
in Montevideo. It gets its name from the date of independ
ence from Spain, and is narroAV and rather gloomy during the
day, but at night gas-jets and electric lights make it brilliant.
The shops are all small, and most of the names over them are
French or German, yet the clerks in the retail stores are
Spanish and really understand nothing else. There are, of
course, shops on other streets, as " Sarandi " and the " Eigh
teenth of July," but " Twenty-fifth of May "is the Broadway.
The display of jewelry and precious stones, especially diamonds,
is something wonderful. They are tastefully set and Avell dis-

68 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
played on velvet cushions. So many of these shops are there
that they seem to light up the Avhole street. Next in number
come the exchange shops and places for the sale of lottery
tickets. The lottery is a government institution, and the pro
ceeds are used for the support of the big charity hospital on the
Twenty-fifth of May Street. It built the hospital originally,
and has also paid for the insane asylum, besides other smaller
buildings for charitable purposes, such as l}7ing-in hospitals.
Men and boys are the chief vendors, and you are assailed by
them at every corner, but especially on the plazas. There are
three different lists of prizes, headed by a grand prize Avhich is
either $50,000, $25,000, or $12,500. If it is the first mentioned,
a whole ticket costs $10, if the second, $5, and if the last named,
a ticket is $2.50. The tickets are divided into fifths ; on the
face of each fifth is a list of the prizes offered, a description of
the ticket to let you know what color it ought to be, and on the
back the date of drawing. The vendors get 6 per cent., and
they always have in their pockets an official printed copy of the
numbers of the last drawing, and you constantly see people stop
ping them and taking tickets out of the pockets to compare with
the list, and see what they have drawn. Every one buys, from
the street vendors of fruits and cakes, porters, and laborers up.
Drawings are frequent, and prizes are always promptly paid in
silver coin.
There are several plazas, or public squares, the principal ones

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 69
being Constitucion, Independencia, Cagancha, and Rincon.
They are all curbed and have a flagged sidewalk around them,
and there are a feAv trees, but beyond the trees not a blade of
grass or anything green is to be seen, the whole space being
covered with gravel. Stone-paved paths intersect each square,
and along their sides are benches, usually occupied by gossiping
groups of lottery-ticket vendors. I am told that there Avere
formerly grass, flowers, and shrubs in the parks, but Santos, the
last despot who occupied the presidential chair, wanted more
money, so he had a bill passed to remove all grass, etc., from
the public squares and sold the privilege of doing the work.
He had many curious ways of managing things, but must have
had some talents to work his way up from a stable boy to the
Presidency. He undoubtedly had his assassins for private work
and on a few occasions, when afraid to trust them — reputable
men assured me — did the Avork himself. Every vacant lot in
the city is inclosed by a high brick wall. He and his brother
bought all the bricks in the city, also those at the kilns, and
then ordered all vacant lots Availed in with brick within a
certain time. He Avas finally Avounded in the face by a soldier,
who tried to kill him, and went to Europe to have the Avound
treated. No sooner had he sailed than Tajes, his minister of
war, proceeded, with a regiment on which he could rely, to the
barracks, where the favorite regiment of Santos was quartered,
disarmed them, and then proclaimed himself President. Next

70 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
a laAv of expatriation Avas passed, and Santos never again
returned to Uruguay. He spent his last days in Buenos
Ayres, and every now and then we would be startled by a report
that he had landed at night in some part of Uruguay or even
in the city, and as that meant a revolution and fighting, it was
wiser to keep out of the streets until the rumor proved false.
He died in Buenos Ayres, and then the government offered his
widow a man-of-war to bring his body home in state, but she
refused, and brought him quietly over in a regular passenger
steamer, and Avithout parade of any kind he was laid to rest
among his people. He left a widow, several children, and a
large fortune. Alive, he was dreaded worse than the plague ;
dead, he is forgotten.
Constitucion is often called Matriz, because the Cathedral of
La Matriz — The Mother — is built on one side of it. The
church is very large, even for a cathedral, and from the outside
its two towers and dome look very fine. The interior is bare
and unusually destitute of ornament, the only costly one being
the marble tomb of a bishop, with a colossal figure of the ec
clesiastic in his robes kneeling on top. The ornaments on the
altars are poor, but in good taste, as are the saints' statues and
painted altar pieces ; an air of poverty seems to pervade the
place. Across the plaza is the large municipal building,
neither very imposing nor pleasing except during carnival, or
on some especial gala occasion, when it is beautifully decorated

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 71
by day and illuminated by night. It seemed spacious and
comfortable inside, the entrance being through big doors into a
square hall, off which doors on the left lead into the central po
lice court, and those on the right into the barracks of the
guard, for soldiers are on duty there all the while. Two of
them with fixed bayonets stand at the foot of a broad marble
staircase, which leads from the rear of the square entrance hall
to the floor above. Just behind the sentinels are two strong
iron gates that could be quickly swung to and barred if the
legislators above needed protection.
Ascending the staircase we enter a narroAv hall which runs
around the square inner patio, and from which doors give en
trance to the different rooms. One is occupied by the senate,
and any one may attend its sittings who chooses to do so, but
not too many must come at one time, as only four hard wooden
benches across one end of the long, narrow room are provided
for the public. These are elevated, and are reached by a few
steps. A heavy wooden railing separates them from the rest of
the rooms, and to this railing several small leaves hang ; these,.
when propped up, can be used by reporters, standing in front o£
them, to Avrite on. At the opposite end of the room is a large
desk with a big arm-chair behind it, and in the chair sits the
vice-president of the republic, as presiding officer. He Avas an
old man with pure Avhite hair, gray beard, and a fine intellect
ual face. He looked very small in the very big chair. A David

72 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
Davis would have fitted it better. On the wall just behind him
hung an oil portrait of Gen. Artigas in full uniform, and on one
of the side walls Avas a similar portrait of Suarez. They Avere
both patriots and mighty men in their day in Uruguay. No
desks are furnished, and if a senator wishes to read his speech
he brings it in his hand and holds it until he goes out, or puts
it in his pocket. I never saw more than a dozen of the nineteen
senators in their seats ; they attend strictly to their business,
¦speak sitting in their chairs, and give their assent to any
proposition by bending forward from their waists. Four clerks
Avrite at four desks, and, save the scratching of their pens, the
room is very still ; yet as the senators speak only for one an
other's benefit, and the feAV there are of them being at the fur
ther end of the room, it is exceedingly difficult to understand
anything. The House of Representatives meet in a similar room in an
other side of the building, and it is arranged much in the same
manner, except that here there are a few more benches for the
public. There are fifty-four chairs and always a goodly number
of members present. They speak louder and seem generally
more democratic and noisy.
On the Sarandi side of the plaza is the magnificent new three-
storied marble-faced building of the Uruguayan Club, the effect
of which is, however, spoiled for me by giving up the ground
floor to shops. Opposite is the unpretentious brown building

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 73
which is the headquarters of Englishmen and foreigners gen
erally, and is known as the English Club. Shops occupy the
rest of the square, and over most of them are private residences,
it being not at all out of the Avay here to live over a shop, even
the president sometimes doing so.
To seo the plaza at its gayest one must go in the even
ings, especially on warm summer ones, when a military band
plays and numerous pretty senoritas of the city and of Bue
nos Ayres are sitting demurely at the tables, with papa and
mamma, pretending to eat ices or drink beer, while the young
men wander about speaking to those they know. On Corpus
Christi day it is crowded, packed with people who assemble
to see the great religious procession of the }rear, when all
the priests and societies of the city meet together in the
cathedral, and issuing from it march in solemn procession
around the square, singing, carrying lighted candles, and
showing to the multitude the great treasure of the country,
which is a small piece of the true cross. I saAV the pro
cession one year and it Avas a beautiful sight. The peo
ple in the surrounding houses brought out silk hangings
and embroidered cloths and hung them on the front of
their houses. Every balcony was filled with people, and all in
and about the plaza the people were packed so close that it
seemed a sea of heads as one looked cIoavh on them — a sea
that swayed and surged as each one strove to better his

74 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
position. The curbstones on each side of the street were
lined with soldiers in full uniform, and there was a military
band at each corner. There Avas some delay, but finally the
procession issued from the church, and it Avas so long that it
reached nearly around the square. First came the boys
destined for the priesthood, then those Avho were training for
missionaries ; next a veiled host on the top of a long pole,
the Areil stiff with embroidery, borne by a priest. It was fol
lowed by a long line of them ; next the big Avhite satin gold-
embroidered banner of the bishop ; behind that a banner of
cloth of gold, Avith a small glass case hanging in the center
of it. In this case was the piece of the true cross, and at
its approach the soldiers and the people all knelt. Next
came a veiled host, then a pennant, which was so heavily
embroidered with gold that it stood out straight and stiff.
Just behind was a double row of Jesuit priests in robes —
as Avell as others — their candles being in lanterns. Priests
of the cathedral, dressed in the robes of the mass, folloAved,
then priests walking backAvard and burning incense before
the bishop, Avho walked beneath a yellow brocade canopy,
dressed in gorgeous robes and surrounded by attendants.
After he passed, all those Avho Avere kneeling arose and
watched the priests of different parishes, headed by veiled
hosts, file by. The procession closed Avith numerous socie
ties, all dressed in ordinary dress and distinguished by the

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 75
ribbons around their shoulders. When all had paced slowly
around the square they entered the cathedral and a long
service followed, but as soon as they had disappeared behind
the doors the band struck up a march, the soldiers fell into
line and marched off to their barracks, Avhile a few people
went in to attend the service and the majority went home.
It was a lovely spectacle, there was so much gold, so many
brilliant priests' robes, the bands playing, soldiers' uniforms
glittering, the procession chanting, the bells all over the city
ringing merrily, the kneeling crowd — it all looked very pretty
in the bright sunshine, and to Roman Catholics, who under
stood the meaning of all the details, it must have been espe
cially attractive.
Independencia Plaza is only two blocks away, and is the
largest in the city. It is intended to have a colonnade all
around it, but the work progresses slowly, and only the tAvo
ends and part of the sides are so decorated. It is sur
rounded by shops and houses, except a large public building
called the Government House, Avhich is filled Avith different
offices, among them those of the president ; and any clay about
four the latter could be seen to come out and enter his hand
some coupe, which took him to his own house r n the " Eigh
teenth of July Street." The 18th of July is the anniver
sary of the adoption of the constitution, and the street is a
fine wide one, being in the neAv part of the city. It is

70 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
planted with a row of trees on each side, and is very long,
extending way out into the country. Plaza Cagancha is
made by widening the Eighteenth of July Street for two
squares, and contains the only statue in the city, and it
is erected to Liberty. On the top of a tall Corinthian col
umn of marble is a female figure in bronze, wearing the
Phrygian cap and draped in the costume of ancient Greece ;
one hand holds the flag of Uruguay, and the other a pair
of broken shackles. Rincon Plaza is in the old part of the
town and is surrounded by small houses. It is often used
as a drill ground for troops, and on summer evenings the
benches are freely patronized by spoony couples, as it is not
very brilliantly lighted. One of the streets which leads
from it to the water is called Washington, named for our
immortal George.

OSTRICHES IN URUGUAY— VISIT TO SENOR SA-
PELLO'S BIRD FARM NEAR PIEDRAS.
AN AFTERNOON AT THE QUIET VILLAGE OF SANTA LUCIA
 A DECAYING TOAATN THAT ONCE ENJOYED A BOOM- -ITS
BIG HOTEL AND GRASS-GROWN STREETS.
The Central Railroad of Uruguay passes through many
little towns near Montevideo, and sometimes Ave made excur
sions on it to see the hamlets and pass a clay in the coun
try aAvay from the heat of the city. Some one told us that
Santa Lucia Avas an interesting place, so we made it the
destination of our next outing. For two hours and a half
the train slowly crossed the flat country, often stopping at
pretty little stations, with towns more or less near them.
When quite near to Santa Lucia we caught a glimpse of a
rather broad stream, called a river, with a pretty good current
and quite high bluff banks for this country. Arriving, we
found a railroad station large and airy, with rooms for the
station-master and his family at one end, as well as a gar
den for his flowers and chickens in the rear. There Avas

78 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
the usual crowd of men and women to Avatch the passengers
alight, most of the women Indians, with a feAV oranges or
lemons to sell. Most of the men were natives, dressed in
riding costume, who had come in from their farms for pleasure
or profit, and having tied their horses to the fence, were Avatch-
ing the travelers while patronizing the bar. A cloud of hack-
men surrounded us as we stood making up our minds what to
do next. They were eager and clamorous, but Ave told them
in English Ave did not want anything, and finally they left
us in despair. I wish noAV that Ave had gone Avith one of
them to see where he Avould have taken us, and what castles
in Spain he Avould have built out of his imagination Avith
which to glorify the decaying little town.
Once Santa Lucia had a boom as a summer resort, and the
brothers Fernandez, Avho had made a pile of money in the Ori
ental Hotel in Montevideo, clecided to build a summer hotel in
Santa Lucia, so as to make a second fortune, instead of which
they speedily became bankrupt ; and, seeing the hotel, one can
not Avonder at their non-success. It is separated from the rail
road depot by a broad street and a large grove of eucalyptus
trees, each of Avhich had to be brought there and set out. The
building occupies a block about 300 feet square. It is built
one room deep and one story high clear round. Of these rooms
about forty are guest-chambers, two dining-rooms and the rest
given over to servants and rubbish. When I tell you that the

AVENUE OF PALMS, BOTANICAL GARDEN, RIO DE JANEIRO.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 79
regular price for two people in a room during the season is —
Avith two meals a daj* — only $2 a head, you can easily see why
this big building did not pay. The patio is a garden filled
with vegetables and here and there some floAvers ; between
them and the building Avas a broad bricked terrace, with columns
and a roof of iron trellis thickly covered Avith grape-vines. It
made a lovely place to walk or lounge in, and after a good
breakfast Ave talked to a group of young girls who had come
there with their families to spend the summer. They put us
through a catechism and we returned the compliment, but from
their account there did not seem anything of especial interest in
the toAvn, so we sat there during the heat of the clay, improAred
our Spanish by practice, and watched the Avomen of all ages
suck mate, Avhile the young fry amused themselves Avith a dead
mouse, burying, digging it up, and throAving it around, none
of them apparently objecting at all to handling it. Finally Ave
started out and walked clear through the toAvn several times.
It is said to have 3,000 inhabitants, and it may ; anyAAray its
forlornness made it fascinating. The streets are wide, grass-
grown, and silent, scarcely a creature stirring. Wild flowers
greAv along the roads, Avhile here and there were clumps of
elderberry bushes in full bloom.
There are a goodly number of houses with pretty little gar
dens about them, and in some cases people were sitting on the
piazzas or in the patios, but not all could boast of inhabitants ;

80 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
many Avere Avindowless, their roofs falling in or fallen, with
weeds, tall and rank, pushing their way up through the brick
pavements of the deserted rooms. We asked a shopkeeper for
the reason; like most foreigners of the Latin race, he first
shrugged his shoulders, and then told us he only knew that the
people who had money enough to go to Montevideo ne\Ter came
back, and only those Avithout money were left, so his business
did not flourish. The main plaza was a shady, quiet place with
plenty of benches about under the trees and a band stand. A
man Avho was busy putting a fresh coat of paint on the benches
told us he Avas getting ready for the summer — one month of
that delightful season had already flown — and that eveiy other
evening a band composed of some of the youths of the town
used the stand and gave free concerts.
The church faced the plaza, and we Avalked in at the open
door. It was large and the air felt cool, vault-like, and pleas
ant after the burning sun. The altars already built were plain
and poor, Avhile a statue of St. Joseph standing on a dry-goods
box had a small money box nailed up near it, with a printed
request that you contribute something toward furnishing him a
suitable altar that he might be properly Avorshipped. A feAV
roughly-made confessionals stood near the base of the columns
that supported the roof, and a pail of water with a sprinkler in
it occupied one of them. A small boy had been at Avork with
the sprinkler wetting the floor, but just then he was occupied by

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 81
a game of marbles outside, and pnly returned Avhen a priest put
his head out of a door near the high altar and repeatedly called
" Pedro ! " The priest retreated Avhen he saw us, and the boy
stood some time struggling Avith his inclination to follow us
about rather than return to his work. Chairs were standing in
the center aisle in great confusion, as if the congregation had
but lately left, and in front of one of them lay a tiny pair of
shoes and stockings, just where some impatient youngster had
kicked them off.
Walking to the river, which bears the same name as the town,
we Avandered for some time in a grove along its banks, picking
wild flowers and admiring the pretty stream. Here and there
were fishermen, and we hoped every minute to see a finny prize
hauled out ; but as none came Ave finally engaged an elderly
disciple of Izaak Walton, with balloon breeches, in conversa
tion. He Avas an enthusiastic sport, and the yarns he spun us-
about the size of the fish he had hauled out of that brook would
have astonished me if I had not been used to fishermen's yarns-
at home. It Avas a lovely cool spot to stay in, so we encouraged
him to talk, and imperil the future of his soul until a distant
whistle warned us to make our bows, express our thanks and
hurry to the station, Avhere we found a train that AA-hirlecl us
back to Montevideo.
Another day Ave started for the town of Piedras to visit an
ostrich farm near there. There is a small ostrich — called by the
6

82 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
natives Nandu — Avhich abound in the southern part of the
continent of South America. They are as inferior to the
African bird in feathers as in size, but have long been hunted
with the bolas, their skins making pretty rugs and the feathers
the finest of dusters. When tracts of land were fenced in for
the purpose of stocking Avith cattle a greater or less number of
these birds were confined, and the owners of the estancias tried
to improve the breed by importing some of the large African
birds. They Avould not mate, hoAvever, and the estancieros
had to content themselves with keeping an eye on the herds in
the bad seasons and seeing that only a certain number Avere
killed every year, for Avhose skins they get one dollar each, on
an average. The farm near Piedras is of African birds entirely,
and is owned by an Italian, Seiior Sapello by name, Avho for
merly raised horses, and when he heard of the Zulu Avar, he
filled a ship with his cattle and sailed with them for the Cape of
Good Hope. He found a ready market with the English for
his Avares, and while visiting the town saAv some young birds
and visited a feather exchange, and, seeing large profits in the
business, he bought a feAV pairs of chicks for $300 a pair, and
returning to Uruguay started the farm, which pays him
splendidly. From the station a ten minutes' drive brings one
to his gate. This the driver opens, and thence the road leads
to a second gate. This was locked, but in answer to a lusty
pull at the bell a peon came, who smilingly led us through a

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 83
groAre of eucalyptus trees up to the large one-storied house, em
bowered in grapevines growing on iron trellises. Mr. Sapello
and his tAvo sons received us most kindly, answering all our
questions Avith the greatest care, and seemed to feel quite repaid
by the interest we took. There are iioav 150 pairs of grown
birds all kept as near the house as possible for convenience in
attending to their simple wants. All are natives of the place
except the- first feAv pairs, and several have been sold. Each
pair have about an eighth of an acre to themselves, Avhich is
enclosed by a high wire fence, while inside there are several
trees, grass, and a small wooden hut. They retire into the
latter at night and a peon closes the door, thus securing them
from prowling dogs. The trees are for shade, which seemed
very grateful to them the hot day that we were there, as they
not only stood in it but fanned their bodies Avith their wings,
looking like ballet dancers with fluffily-dressed bodies and bare
legs. They stand from six to ten feet high, and when the
feathers are plucked so one may see the size of the body, they
appear all legs and neck. The legs are entirely destitute of
feathers or hair and their owners brand them on the hip. The
neck has short, gva,y, hair-like feathers, and the large brown eyes
quite redeem the small, flat head, giving them an air of intelli
gence. The body of the male is covered by black feathers,
with long, white plumes on the wings, and gray ones on the
tail. The females are gray, instead of black, and have the same

84 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF- WAR.
plumes. They are about the same size as their mates, and each
bird averages twenty-five long white plumes to a Aving, besides
those from the tail, and a varying number of medium length
that can be taken from the body.
They lay, as a rule, two eggs a month, which are at once
taken from them and placed in the incubator, which is in a
long Ioav building kept at an even temperature by hot water
pipes. After ten days the egg is placed in front of a strong
ray of light, Avhen a dark spot Avill show if the chick is form
ing ; if not, the egg is blown and the shell kept to give a
visitor. They hatch after forty-two days, when the bird is
about the size of a bantam, covered with soft broAvn feathers.
They live in hovers a month or two, carefully fed with chopped
alfalfa, and are then kept in a yard until large enough to be put
out in pairs. Full growth is attained about a year after hatching,
and from then on they are plucked every six months. As they are
strong and pugnacious, the feathers could not be pulled without
injury Avere the bird left free, so each one in turn is driven into
a small box and the door closed behind it. Just at the height
of the body there are small doors on each side, and bjT opening
them the feathers are reached without danger, only the small
ones are pulled, the others being cut off to give as little pain as
possible. The feathers are boxed and shipped to a regular
agent in Paris, Avho returns large sums for them. The birds
are fed on alfalfa, never get sick, and live a long while.

XL

CLOSING CEREMONIES OF A CONGRESS OF
SOUTHERN REPUBLICS.
1 NOVEL AND BRILLIANT SCENE — SOME OF THE NOTABLE
PERSONS PRESENT — FINE NAVAL DISPLAY — MARKETS OF
MONTEVIDEO — HOAAr THE POLICEMEN ARE FOUND WHEN
W ANTED.
Flowers were plenty and cheap all about Montevideo, and
they Avere used in the greatest profusion upon all occasions.
Set pieces Avere the favorites, and I remember the day after a
wedding seeing two carts loaded with floral offerings, being
sent to decorate the church that the bride attended — tables a
yard or more high and as large across, easels with large shields,
the Avhole some five to six feet high ; lyres, hearts, harps, and
wreaths, all of astonishing dimensions, entirely covered with
lovely flowers. At funerals the hearse would be all overhung
with enormous wreaths, with fluttering ribbons, on Avhich were
stamped the name of the donor, some tribute of affection or of
friendship. The quintas — as houses in the suburbs and country

86 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
are called — are surrounded by spaces filled with fruit trees and
flowers, and the latter are plucked and Avorn at all times.
The grandest display I ever saAV was one February day,
when, by invitation, we went to the Solis Theater to see the
closing ceremonies of an international congress of South
American republics. The Solis is a large yellow building, set
Avell back from the street, Avith a graveled space in front ; and
this was deeply covered with branches of eucalyptus, Avhile the
entrance steps disappeared beneath carpets. The interior is
like that of most Spanish theaters. On the floor are the
parquet or orchestra chairs, Avith :frve galleries rising above, the
first three divided off into boxes — a grand box for the President
over the cloor, and in one of the tiers several boxes looking
like bird-cages, with gilded lattices in front, these being for the
use of any one in mourning who Avishes to attend the play
unseen. The fourth gallery is the cazuela, for ladies Avho came
unaccompanied by gentlemen, and the fifth is here called
paraiso, or " paradise."
The theater is large and the decorations are simple, but
at this time the whole interior was draped with blue and
white cambric, while over these drapings were hundreds of
festoons of natural flowers, row after row of them, filling the
air with a delicious fragrance. The curtains of the boxes were
looped back with bouquets, and on the stage, which was
covered with a plain red carpet, Avere huge bunches of potted

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 87
palms. In the rear was a large stand of arms and flags, mirrors
AA'ere set about the sides, and in front Avas a semicircle of thir
teen chairs for the members of the congress.
The audience was most brilliant. In the state box, in two
large arm-chairs, sat President Tajes, of Uruguay, and Presi
dent Celman, of the Argentine. The latter was the guest of
the nation, having come over for this special ceremony, arriving
in state, accompanied by his men-of-war, and received in great
style by all the foreign ships in the harbor ; but, thanks to a
pampero, he Avas too sick to appreciate it. He is a slight, pale,
colorless man, of medium height, with light brown hair, close
trimmed, full beard, watery blue eyes, and expressionless face.
He Avore citizens' evening dress, Avith the national baldric of his
country under his coat. Tajes Avas also slight, but with broad
shoulders and a military carriage that showed off well his gold-
embroidered general's uniform. He has jet-black eyes, hair, '
moustache and imperial, and salloAV skin, Avhile altogether the
expression of his face Avas not amiable, but rather tartarish ; yet
it had character, and he looked twice the man his guest did.
He wore the national baldric outside his coat. These dignita
ries Avere surrounded by a glittering throng of diplomats in full
uniform and military men in attendance. Most of the boxes were
filled by men wearing uniforms, and the thin summer dresses of
the ladies Avere bright in color, the whole making a brilliant
setting for the two or three civilians, whose simple dress looked

8$ ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
strangely prominent. Those showing most prominently, because
nearest the throne, were the Vice-President of Uruguay, and
Seflor Brizuela, representative of the republic of Paraguay.
As soon as the Presidents Avere seated the thirteen members
of the congress filed in and took their places, Garcia Lagos,
minister of foreign affairs, in the center, with Quirna Costa on
his right. All rose to their feet as the orchestra began the
national hymn of the Argentine, and remained so until it Avas
finished and the Uruguayan had succeeded it. Then we seated
ourselves and Seflor Lagos rose and read a short paper, Avelcom-
ing President Celman, and briefly touching upon the Avork of
the congress. To all the natural dignity of his race, Seflor
Lagos adds a noble face, fine voice, large body, and a mass of
longish white hair, Avhich gives him a leonine appearance.
There Avas no applause when he finished. Evidently it was not
the proper thing, as Quirna Costa, of the Argentine, Avho fol
lowed him Avith an excellent paper, also took his seat amid
profound silence.
Rising once again, Ave all listened to the repetition of the
national hymns, the tAvo Presidents shook hands, and then Ave all
left. No expense had been spared.
The ceremonies were short, and the whole affair was delight
fully dignified ; such a charming contrast to many scenes I had
witnessed at home, where noise, vehemence, and hilarity take
the place of dignity, until it really seemed as if our public men,

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 89
when assembled for business, were but a pack of schoolboys out
on a lark. President Celman staid seven days in all, and Avas
entertained all the Avhile, the Avhole city enjoying a holiday. It
was a pity he was too sea-sick to see his reception afloat, for it
was an impressive sight.
Early on the appointed day all the foreign men-of-war in the
harbor got up steam and, going outside, anchored so as to form
a lane for the guest to enter the port by. A strong wind sprang
up about noon, and as it was four o'clock before the Argentine
fleet appeared, Ave Avere by that time bobbing about right merrily ;
but the breeze blew the flags out finely and the bright sunshine
sliOAved the men manning the yards, the shining guns, and all
the beauties of fighting ships to perfection. First in the pro
cession came the three Uruguayan gun-boats, dancing along and
looking like yachts with their fine lines ; then the Argentine
fleet, Celman on board the large iron-clad Patagones, Avhich looks
more like a fort adrift than anything else. As she passed the
yards were manned, marines paraded on the quarter-deck and a
national salute of twenty-one guns was fired from each ship,
each gun being returned from the Almirante Brown, so for a
time Ave had all the scenic effects of a naval battle without any
of its disasters. Celman Avas taken ashore in an open launch,
which was fitted in blue and white velvet for the occasion, and
was Avell soaked with spray before reaching the wharf, Avhere
Tajes, a number of dignitaries, and many people were Avaiting

90 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
to Avelcome him. Several balls were given, the finest being
those of Saenz Pena, Argentine minister to Uruguay, and the
Uruguayan Club, the latter throwing open its large new marble
building on the Martriz plaza.
There are some curious scenes in the streets here, one of the
most pleasing being the Sunday morning market on the Eigh
teenth of July Street, from Plaza Independencia to Cagancha,
about one-half mile. By midnight on Saturday the carts begin
to arrive, and the venders place their wares upon the sideAvalk
or on pieces of cloth spread upon the pavement of the street.
At daylight the scene opens, and all good marketers are there to
buy the fresh country Aregetables, chickens, geese, kids, baskets
of native manufacture, braided fans to keep alive charcoal fires,
pots of red earthenware, Avhips of rawhide, cheap laces, Avax
matches sold by tiny Italians, candles and quantities of floAvers
in pots. The countrymen in their ponchos, the women in bright
colored calicoes, the children tumbling about everywhere, and
the noise of their bargaining — all is interesting, and it only lasts
a few hours, for by eight o'clock the street must be cleared,
and it is, every bit of rubbish even having vanished.
The policemen Avear a uniform, and a sort of shako on
their heads. They are armed with a short tAvo-edged knife
or sword, called a machete, which they clo not hesitate to
use when arrest is resisted. They also have Avhistles, which
they often sound, but I did not succeed in finding out why.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 91
I frequently saw them sitting on little stools resting, and at
night they place a hand-lantern in the center of a street
and stay near it, so if you need a policeman you run for
the nearest lantern in the street, and there one is sure to
be. Chickens are carried about in untanned round hide
baskets that have covers, one slung each side of a mule,
and it must be uncommonly warm and uncomfortable for
them. On eArery corner are found changadores, or porters, Avho
wear blouses, soft fishermen' s caps, and carry a piece of
stout rope. They Avill carry anything anywhere one wishes,
and charge enormously for doing so. They belong to a
guild and draAV $2 every day as their Avages, turning in
whatever they have received during the day to a collector,
who visits each one every night. In the suburbs, especially
near the foot of the mount, there are many saladeros,
where large numbers of horned cattle are killed daily during
the summer season, for the hides and flesh, the latter being
made into jerked beef, quantities of which are sold to Brazil
and all through the interior. They also kill whole herds
of horses for their skins alone. Driving large country carts,
drawn by patient oxen, whose eyes seem starting from their
sockets with the pain of the heavy beam-like yoke laid
upon their brains and lashed to their horns, one sees coun
trymen in the present dress of the native peasant. It con-

92 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
sists of shoes of canvas, with soles made of rope; very
full trousers, plaited into bands around the waist and ankles ;
a Avoolen or cotton shirt, according to the season ; any kind
of a hat, and always the poncho, which is a square of
cloth having a slit in the middle for the head to pass
through.

XII.
HOTELS IN MONTEVIDEO— THE FAVORITE BATH
ING RESORTS.
RAMIREZ AND POCITOS THE MOST POPULAR BEACHES — THE
BEAUTIFUL CEMETERIES OF BUCEO  STREET CAR LINES
EXTENDING TO ALL THE SUBURBS — NOTES AND INCIDENTS.
When we asked for hotels in Montevideo, two were men
tioned as being the very best in toAvn, yet the way they
are spoken of is unique. It seems to suggest two horns
of a dilemma, and nothing else. At the Pyramides one is
promised a good table and small rooms ; at the Oriental,
good rooms and poor table. We thought any rooms would
seem large after state-rooms on board ship, so Ave tried the
Pyramides. We found the rooms low, small, stuffy, — moldy
is a better Avord, — the table fair; charge $3.50 a clay, and
the ordinary conveniences of life so badly attended to that
we left in a Aveek. Next we tried the Oriental, and spent
many months there, always welcomed and sped by handsome

94 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
old Don Ramon, whose manners and Spanish made one think
of the priest he was educated for, but when you saAV his
troop of children about him, and the happiness in his face
as he petted and spoiled them all, you felt the world had
gained if the Church had lost, and that he was truly happy.
His hotel is said to be the only one where a lady can live alone
without being annoyed. However that may be, she is certainly
safe at the Oriental. Ladies eat in the general dining-room
without being spoken to or unduly stared at. It was built for
a hotel, is three stories and a basement in height, of brick,
covered Avith adobe and a yelloAv wash. The blinds are painted
green, and there are numerous flagstaff's on the roof, as Avhen
he has foreign ministers with him Don Ramon keeps the flag of
their country flying, and I have seen as many as four fluttering
in the breeze at one time. All windows go to the floor so as to
give plenty of air, and there are cracks all around them, as well
as around the doors. It is built on the corner of Piedras and
Solis streets, and occupies a square plot. Inside there are four
inner courts, or patios, Avhich reach to the roof, and are covered
with glass, awnings also being stretched in summer to keep out
the sun. Around three of them are the public rooms and
guest chambers, the fourth being given up to kitchen, laundry,
and servants' rooms. Around each one, at every story, there
runs a narrow-railed balcony, which gives access to the rooms,
and these balconies are reached by a marble staircase. The

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 95
azotea — roof — is flat and used to dry clothes on, but on most of
the private houses these flat roofs are used as the broad piazzas
of homes in the Southern States are. The ceilings of the rooms
are high, and the floor space all one can desire. The floors are
covered Avith carpet, and if one looks after the chamber-maid
she Avill keep the room clean and the plentiful furniture dusted.
The chamber-maid is a luxury in South America, and the
Oriental only boasts of one, who has charge of all the rooms in
which there are ladies, the others being looked out for by tAvo
men. The windows of the rooms next the street, as I said
before, reach to the floor and open on to narrow balconies ; in
summer these stand open day and night, yet one is never
troubled by the neighbors, and a robbery is unheard of. The
inside rooms, which are by far the more numerous, get light
and air through a hybrid door-window, that is, a door with panes
of glass in it. Inside, if guests wish light and air, they must
sacrifice privacy, and vice versa. The balconies and passage
ways are floored with brick and the walls AvhiteAvashed. The
dining-room is on the ground floor, and receives light and air
from three glass doors into the patio and one into a passage,
and it was often so dark we could not see to read. The floor of
wood, inlaid, was very nice in summer ; but in Avinter, as there
is no fire in the hotel outside of the kitchen, one often sighs for
the warmth of a carpet, yet, noticing the native habit of ex
pectorating, flinging cigarette stumps and matches on the floor,

96 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
one becomes reconciled to a floor that can be scrubbed. The
food is good, and after one becomes used to the garlic and
onions it is palatable. Onions and garlic are in every dish, and
there is not the slightest use in remonstrating. Neither for
love nor for money will these cooks leave it out.
I have described the Oriental at such length because it was
the best Ave found, and because it is typical. The slipshod way
in AA'hich everything was managed, no housekeeper, no head-
waiter, all the servants doing as they choose, the guests putting
up with everything and enjoying themselves ; Don Ramon
polite, smiling, always ready to pour oil on the troubled waters ;
the large, airy building, the whiteness of marble and white
wash everywhere, the waste of space in the patios, and the
many dark rooms, — all were typical.
In summer the place Avas a beehive, for it is the fashion in
Buenos Ayres to go to Montevideo for the baths, the latter city
being so much nearer the ocean that the water is somewhat salt.
Family after family would arrive, and the size of some of them
was astonishing — papa, mamma, any number of children up to
a dozen, cousins, aunts, uncles, and all sorts of relations. They
would take a feAv- large rooms and stow themselves away, only
they and the chamber-maid kneAv Iioav. They Avould fill the
house to overflowing, and then the patios were delightful
places. All Avere ahvays jolly and every one did as they
pleased. The pretty girls wore lovely toilets and Avere ahvays

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 97
ready for a chat or a walk, provided it Avas not a man Avho
approached them. If one of the last>mentioned came to call
they Avoulcl sit as demure as kittens and let mamma or aunt do
the conversing, putting in here and there a Avord or smile, but
not many. In the early afternoon their very best frocks Avere
donned, along with their gayest hats and prettiest jewelry, the
children Avould grasp pail and shovel, and there Avould be an
exodus for the bathing beaches.
There are two faArorite places, Ramirez and Pocitos, either
only to be reached by a long ride in the street cars. Ramirez is
the nearer, and after a twenty minutes' dash along the streets,
through soft warm air and clouds of dust, one arrives at a long
pier, the shore end of which has a restaurant, band-stand, and
little tables set about on a platform. At the other end are bath
houses, Avith ladders leading clown into the water, and these
Avere the favorite resorts for those Avho could SAvim. On one
side of the pier Avere a number of bathing machines, Avhich
were drawn in and out of the Avater by mules, and into these
the pretty girls, with their dainty, gayly-colored gOAvns, avouIc!
flock, be draAvn out into Avater, and, when pulled in again,
would emerge Avith everything in perfect order and their
crimps intact. It Avas a puzzle, until I was told that they never
Avent into the Avater at all, but made the excuse to go to the
beach, and afterward sit around the tables, taking some light
refreshment, and having their toilets and themselves admired

98 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
by the men, old and young, who flocked there, and who are
obliged to bathe on quite another part of the beach. Of course
there was a tarnbo — coAV-shed. Tambos abounded in the city
and in all the suburbs, for the natives like milk hot from the
cow, and to get it they will go into a cow-shed, sit there among
all the odors and flies, and drink milk which they see milked.
It takes about three-quarters of an hour to reach Pocitos, but
when reached it is quite a little town, and the beach is really a
good sandy one. The restaurant is on a hotel piazza, and there
is a pier for promenaders. A number of people of Montevideo
have country places here, but the majority of visitors stay in
the city, and come clown each day for their dip.
Not much farther doAvn the coast are the cemeteries of Buceo,
one used by the Roman Catholics, and the other OAvned by an
English company and open to Protestants. They are lovely
places, lying, as they do, on a slope of land with a lovely vieAV
of surrounding plains and boundless river. Then there are so
many floAvers, great masses of them all about, and borders,
stretching down between the rows of silent dead. It is horrible
to have any one we have been friendly with buried far from
home, quite among strangers ; but if one could ever be recon
ciled to it, it would be in the quiet, lovely, flower-decked
cemetery of Buceo. The street-car lines extend for miles out
into the country in all directions. Horses are cheap, so three
or four are put to a car and driven to death. They go at a

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 99
great pace, and are urged by a whip long enough to wrap around
the necks of the leaders. Distances are great, but I have seen
the poor beasts abused until I preferred to get out and Avalk.
For any but the swellest funerals, and even for some of those,
it is customary to hire street cars for the mourners, and one
often sees a hearse, with perhaps one carriage containing the
immediate family, trotting along the streets heading a proces
sion of street cars filled with men smoking cigarettes. Women
do not go to funerals, and the men are ahvays smoking their
eternal cigarettes. As a friend remarked, it was only needed
for the corpse to sit up and smoke, to complete the picture and
make all hands happy.

xm.
THE CARNIVAL SEASON IN THE GAY CAPITAL OF
URUGUAY.
DECORATIONS AND PROCESSIONS, THE BATTLE OF FLOWERS —
PRIATATE AND PUBLIC BALLS — AN EVENING AT THE SPANISH
CLUB — MUSIC AND OTHER ATTRACTIONS AT THE CITY PARK.
The three clays before Ash Wednesday ushers in Lent
are given over in Montevideo to the delights and license
of the carnival, but many clays before that the city Avas
filled with preparations, and the daily papers with announce
ments and comments. Eighteenth of July, TAventy-fifth
of May, Sarandi, and parts of Colon streets, Independencia,
Constitucion, and Zabala plazas were decorated by the city, as
along them the daily procession was to pass. Every few feet
on each side of these streets, next the curb, a paving-stone was
removed, and one end of a long, slender, square pole driven into
the place thus made. These poles were wound Avith blue and
white cambric ; from pole to pole were hung rows of small bunt
ing flags of every conceivable shape and hue. This made tAvo

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 101
bright lines of color by day, while a row of Japanese lanterns
hung under the flags and, illuminated each evening, gave color
and brightness at night. Across the street arches of gas jets
were placed, and there must have been several thousands of them.
In the plazas there Avere the same decorations, an addition being
the substitution of blue and white glass globes for the every-day
white ones. Blue and white are the national colors, the flag
being composed of narroAV horizontal alternate stripes of the two
colors, a white field in the upper corner next the staff having a
yellow sun upon it.
The store windows all displayed a goodly assortment of
pomitos, which are lead tubes with caps, like those that oil
paints come in, only very much larger. They are filled Avith
cheap scented water, and by giving them a good squeeze one
could throw a jet of the water, with considerable accuracy,
about six feet. Everything, except these and floAvers, it Avas
strictly forbidden to throAv, yet we were advised to seek the
seclusion of our rooms, and stay there during King Folly's
reign, as dirty water and ancient eggs would be used as much as
ever. That, however, was not our idea of seeing foreign people
and their ways, so Sunday we put on some old clothes and
sallied forth. First we took a ride around in the street cars,
and saw groups of maskers in their Sunday best, all laughing
and having a good time. Here and there were rooms where
societies, in fancy dress, were gathering before joining the proces-

102 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
sion ; but beyond one small boy, who was filling a rubber squirt
at a mud-puddle in the street, there was nothing alarming,
so we got out, and, making our way to the Eighteenth of July
Street, found the broad thoroughfare croAvded. Prizes had been
offered for the finest decorated house along the route, while in
the procession the finest ornamented car belonging to a society,
the best decorated carriage, the finest horses, and prettiest
costume were all to be rewarded. The crowd was good-natured
and merry ; the maskers were quite plenty, very few in fancy
dress, nearly all Avearing dominos ; pomitos Avere plentiful and
freely used, the neck and face being the favorite points of attack,
and woe to any one who Avore eyeglasses ; they were wet as
quickly as dried and the wearer helpless most of the time.
Every house has one or more balconies, Avhich were all more
or less gayly decorated, one family having brought out all their
parlor furniture, hanging the curtains on the outside of the
windoAvs, the pier mirrors between, and placing ornaments here
and there as they usually were displayed inside. Mounted
police and soldiers tried to keep a passage-Avay open clown the
center of the street, and finally the procession came. First
marched a band of music, and then the managers, mounted on
fine horses ; after these many societies with bands of music here
and there. The favorite dress among these associations was a
species of African, consisting of plenty of black tights, fancy
colored trunk breeches, anklets, armlets, wigs of long wool, a

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 103
big straAV hat hanging on their back by strings passed around
the neck, and a tin rattle or Avooden clapper in one hand.
There were numerous Italian societies and a band of bull
fighters — the bull, two men encased in an old hide — and Avhen-
ever the procession halted they gave a most comical burlesque
of a bull fight. One tall red Avagon was filled with men dressed
as butterflies, their red bodies and gracefully waving golden-
gauze Avings being beautiful. A band of Spanish students were
noticeable ; and finally came the citizens, in carriages, headed by
the President's wife, in full evening dress, the vehicle decorated
with the national colors. Many of the ladies were simply in
evening toilets, with tiny black velvet masks, while others were
in fancy costume, some of the latter being especially striking.
The battle of flowers that day Avas on part of the Twenty-fifth
of May Street, and a great many blossoms were thrown betAveern
the balconies and carriages during the hours when it lasted.
That evening the illuminations were very fine, all the gas-
arches and lanterns being alight, and all the public buildings-
outlined with tiny flames. There were crowds of people in the
streets, afoot and in carriages, all good-natured, all using
pomitos, and all having a charming time. Even the small boys,
who followed every one that had a nearly empty pomito, so as
to get the lead case Avhen throAvn away to sell, were as jolly as
sandpipers, which is not generally the case, children here being
too solemn and sedate as a general rule to please me.

104 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
Monday was a repetition qf Sunday, except that we went in
the evening to a fine ball given by the Spanish Club in their
roomy quarters on the Eighteenth of July Street. All the clubs
give balls every night of the carnival, and there are besides
many private and public balls, but we Avere advised to accept
our Spanish Club invitation as being the most exclusive and
best club at that time. Their lofty rooms are entirely decorated
in the national colors — red and gold — Avhich make them very
brilliant ; and large as they were, by one o'clock they Avere filled
to suffocation, so the fine band, hidden among palms, played
dance music to no practical purpose. There Avere handsome
toilets, but not among the maskers. Only ladies were allowed
the privilege of hiding their faces, and as those Avho took
advantage of it never uncovered them, nor removed their
dominos, there was no incentive among them to fine goAvns.
They prefer dominos, as they cover hair, neck, and ears, making
identification more difficult. Supper and fine wines were served
all the evening, and one could easily see where the club spent
$13,000 on their three balls.
The third evening Ave passed at the Italian legation, the Duke
and Duchess Licignano inviting their friends and throwing
open their house to receive maskers. Many of the latter came,
and among them a company of Morescas, who danced an old
Italian sword dance for our edification, and then we danced
ourselves until Lent came in. Lent should have caused the

TIJUCA, BRAZIL.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 105
cessation of masks and mummery, but it did not ; groups in odd
attire went about the streets, and there were balls every night
until the following Monday, when the decorated wagons — Avith
their flowers all faded — Avere brought out once more to escort
the dying King of Carnival to his grave in the Prado. A figure
lay upon a couch in one of the carts ; one doctor leaned over
him with a fan, while another stood by Avith a lot of instru
ments in his hands, but both were shaking their heads dolefullj",
and by the end of the journey he was supposed to be dead, and
unceremoniously hustled into a hole in the ground. The next
day the decorations were removed, the city resumed its quiet,
gray aspect, and our ears were no longer tortured by the shrill
falsetto tones assumed by the maskers to add to their disguise.
The whole public cost was $17,000, $15,000 of which was paid
by the Government.
The Prado is a large tract of land lying in the outskirts of
the city, which Avas once intended for a private residence, but is
now used as a city park. It is approached under long lines of
eucalyptus trees and the grounds are prettily laid out although
far from finished. There is a sluggish stream that passes along
one side and many fine trees. A hotel and restaurant, near
which a band plays on certain days in the week, form an ending
place for afternoon drives, and one of those curving, endless
railways has lately been erected. Part of the park is fenced off
and used by different societies for their f§tes, Avhich sometimes

106 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
last several days. No admittance fee is charged, and the place
is crowded Avith booths, where manufactured or real curiosities
are exhibited, places where one may shoot at a mark, or listen to
a concert. Strolling bands of two or more musicians, armed
with violins, guitars, or bagpipes, mingle with the crowd and,
stopping wherever they see a group of young people, soon have
a circle about them dancing a sort of waltz upon the uneven
turf. But the great attraction Avas ahvays came con cuero, or
beef roasted with the hide on ; not a whole animal, but parts of
it. Placed on long iron spits before the fires — which Avere
built all about — would be pieces of beef with the hide side next
the fire, the whole being delightfully flavored by the smoke
from the burning hair and frizzling hide. The odor was ahvays
sufficient to fill me Avith disgust, yet it was very popular,
sometimes even being served in the hotel.

XIV,
A BULL FIGHT IN MONTEVIDEO.
BULLS THAT SHOWED FIGHT AND BULLS THAT DID NOT —
SOME CRUEL SCENES — A DISORDERLY ENDING.
I WAS one of a party who were breakfasting one Sunday
at the home of a resident American, when he proposed a visit
to the bull-ring, to show his countrywomen the glories and
horrors of a fight. Our church here is closed for the present,
waiting the arrival of a minister from England; hence our
religion was at a low ebb, and we accepted his invitation.
We rode for half an hour over as bad pavements as any
city in the world can show, the drivers going at the usual
pace of about forty miles to the hour. However, we finally
arrived at the suburban village of La Union, were whirled up
to the outside of the large brick bull-ring, and tried to shake
off some of the dust, while our escort joined a shouting,
surging crowd that was besieging a large grated Avindow, over
which was the sign, " Boletes de primera clase " — first class

108 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
tickets. Soon he returned, and we entered a low arched
passage, climbed a flight of stairs, passed part way around
the circle, and, descending as near the arena as we could,
seated ourselves on some nice, freshly whitewashed seats.
The building in which we found ourselves is a large brick
amphitheatre, Avith a broad Avalk on top, which is partly
covered by a toav of boxes with six seats in each and corru
gated iron roofs. BeloAv these in unbroken circles are Ioav
brick seats, capable of holding 10,000 people and occupied
by about 5,000 on this day. Those on the shady side were
the first-class places and some had whitewashed seats on them,
Avhile others had movable cushions, each man being handed
one as he came in. Below these seats Avere the entrances
and exits for the espadas, banderilleros, picadores, and bulls.
Just beloAv the box of the president of the sports was the
entrance for the men, and opposite, that for the bulls. There
Avere tAvo circles, a large sanded one in the centre, with a
strong board fence some nine feet high surrounding it and
several bits of fence placed here and there, just in front of
the main one and close to it, for the men to hide behind
Avhen too closely pressed. The outer circle AAras about fifteen
feet wide, and this was partitioned off Avith swinging doors
and movable fences. The programme promised ns six bulls,
tAvo of them imported from Spain, from the flock of his
Excellency the Duke of Veragua, and four native animals,

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 109
besides, four native bulls held in reserve. The Spanish bulls
were named Serenity and Vinegar, and did not belie their
names. There were four espadas, the first named Joaquin
Sanz of Valencia, and the second Juan Gimenez of Ecija.
There were three picadores and seven banderilleros, all
Spaniards. The prices Avere $10 for a box, $1 for a seat,
$1.50 entrance fee for a first-class adult, and 70 cents for
a child. The entrance to the second-class, or sunny seats,
was $1 for all ages. At the bottom of the programme Avere
ten announcements by the management : (1.) To avoid crowd
ing at the entrances, the doors will be opened at one o'clock
and will close half an hour after the finish, except in case
of rainy Aveather, Avhen the audience Avill be alloAved to remain
longer if they wish. (2.) No more bulls will be fought
than the programme announces. (3.) No one will be
alloAved to throw articles into the arena, Avhich might injure
the combatants, and no obscene language will be tolerated.
(4.) No one but employees will be alloAved between the
barriers. (5.) Banderillas of fire will be used for every
bull who refuses three times to face the picadores. (6.) In
case one, two, or all the picadores are injured, the manage
ment will not be obliged to furnish others. (7.) Bulls which,
in judgment of the president, will not fight, will be led off by
the bell-ox. (8). The president will be a person chosen by
the management. (9.) If the performance is interrupted by

110 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
some unforeseen circumstance, the entrance money will not
be refunded. (10.) Any one who creates a disturbance will
be handed over to the police.
As we took our seats the band was playing a waltz ; three
mounted picadores, dressed in yellow, with broad-brimmed gray
felt hats and long steel-pointed rods in their hands, were sta
tioned around the circle, equidistant, facing the center. Their
horses Avere sorry-looking nags, and two of them Avere blind
folded. Behind each picador stood a man in a jockey suit of
red and yellow, carrying in his hand a cruel rawhide whip to
urge the horse with in case it showed a faint heart or refused
to return to the attack after being Avounded. In front of the
President's box stood the banderilleros in the gorgeous, beauti
ful dress of the bull-fighter ; their breeches and jackets a glitter
ing mass of gold and silver, the broad-rimmed black hats with
pompons and loops, the braid of hair down their backs orna
mented with the peculiar chignon-like article which they
affect ; brilliant-colored silk stockings and low shoes completing
the dress. Alert, graceful, and composed, they stood with
their eyes fixed on the opposite entrance, their red cloaks held
trailing on the ground before them. The door swung slowly
open, and out stepped a fine native bull. For a second he
looked about him astonished, then, catching sight of the red
cloaks, he dashed across the arena, to be met by one 6f them
being thrown over his head as the banderillero who held it

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. Ill
vaulted to one side, and snatching his cloak towards him,
moved, shaking it, to one side. The bull turned to charge for
him again, when his eye was caught by a picador on a gray
horse. The picador saw him and received him with a stab on
his neck from the point of his lance, but the charge was too
impetuous, and the picador was unhorsed, Avhile the poor horse
received the horns of the bull full in his chest ; there was a
gush of blood and he rolled over just as a banderillero turned
the bull's attention with his red cloak and coaxed him to the
other side of the arena, where he and his associates kept him
occupied, charging first one cloak and then another until the
picador was lifted up and taken out of the ring, and the horse
was flogged until he half rose and was dragged into the
outer circle. The bull wounded two other horses, and
as one of the banderilleros was dazzling him with his
cloak he slipped and fell. The bull charged for him, but
the man lay as if dead and the bull evidently thought him so,
for he charged over him, only tearing his breeches, to attack
another who came to his rescue. It was a thrilling moment,
and the people, getting excited, began to call for the ban-
derillas. A trumpet sounded from the presidential box, a door
swung open, and the picadores vanished, while half of the band
erilleros threw aside their cloaks and each of them took two
banderillas and prepared to use them. These are wooden sticks
about three feet long, wound with colored strips of paper, and in

112 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
one end having a barbed iron-point. A man would take one in
each hand, and standing before the bull, invite an attack by
holding them up and waving them. The bull charges and the
man, while retreating, reaches over the horns and plants the
barbs in the neck, jumping aside at the same instant. The long
sticks hang and drag on the Avound, irritating the bull tremen
dously. The people evidently intended to manage the affair, and
the president seemed to occupy the place of an umpire at
a base-ball game in their estimation ; first they called for the
banderillas, and now, when six had been inserted, they began
to call for the espada. The audience was almost entirely
composed of men of the better class, and they were very
noisy, using all sorts of instruments to assist their Aroices ;
a man just behind me had a huge coAV-bell, Avhich he rang
in and out of season, while a crippled Spaniard, Avho Avas
carried in a man's arms and sat just in front of me, had
a splendid pair of lungs, and enjoyed abusing the whole
thing immensely ; it was not bloody enough for him, and
he assured the president, among other things, that cholera
Avas unnecessary this year; the country was already suffi
ciently disgraced by such a bull-fight. At last the trumpet
sounded a feAV notes, and the espada, with his bright red
cloak and glittering sword, entered the arena and bowed
and smiled to the audience. A little more torture of the bull,

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 113
and the espada succeeded in burying his sword up to the
hilt, just back of the neck, always attacking him from the
front. It Avas a bad stroke and did not kill, so there Avas
more charging and Avaving of cloaks until the espada suc
ceeded in pulling the SAVord out. Then another attack, and
again the blade was buried and the stroke a bad one. The
sword Avas pulled out again and found to be broken, but
still the espada fought with it until the bull Avas on his
knees, Avhen some one handed him a short, heaAy Aveapon,
one blow from Avhich was given between the horns, and the
bull rolled over dead. It was such butchery that there Avas
no applause, and the men left the arena in silence, while
three caparisoned mules came clashing in, Avere attached to
the carcass, and dashed out Avith it Avhile the music played.
The second bull refused to fight, turning from the picadores
and even from the cloaks of the banderilleros. The popu
lace demanded, " Fuego ! banderillas de fuego ! fuego, S'eiior
Presidente ! " But the president declined, and the doors on
one side opened to admit two large dun-colored oxen Avith
big bells on their necks. The bull seemed to knoAV them.
He joined them, and the three Avere Avhipped out of the
ring. This was the imported bull named Serenity. The
third bull came dashing into the ring with a fresh wound on
one of his hind-quarters, given evidently just as he left the
stable. To improve his courage, and as he came on in his

114 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
charge, a banderillero, taking a long pole in his hand, rushed
toAvards him and vaulted clear over him. His fury was shorts
lived, however, and he soon was condemned by the people,
Avho shouted, " Fuera ! fuera ! " until he was led off. The
fourth and fifth bulls were like him, and by this time the
populace were getting rather unruly, so the sixth animal
was forced to fight. The picadores stuck him until the blood
ran in streams doAvn his neck, then six banderillas were
t
planted in his neck ; after which the poor wretch tried to
escape, and climbed the nine-foot fence four times, only to
be driven from one enclosure into another, and finally back
into the ring. At last another espada entered, and the
fourth time the SAVord Avas driven in up to the hilt, the
beast fell dead, and Avas dragged off to the sound of more
music. The seventh, eighth, and ninth bulls refused to
fight, and were hissed off, the people getting more and
more excited, until most of them were on their feet express
ing their sentiments. The other ladies of the party had
retired, and I seemed to excite the admiration of the men
by having staid, and they were careful to stand on one
side so that I could see, and there were no coarse remarks
made near me.
The tenth bull was the Spanish Vinegar, and he fought well;
in less than ten minutes he had killed three horses and wounded
three, in spite of the efforts of the picadores. One he gored to

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 115
death in the ring, fighting him until he ceased even to raise his
head ; another ran around with his bowels hanging from a wound
until he came to a gate which Avas opened, and he ran in ; the
other Avas dragged out on his knees ; the three wounded ones
pranced out, and then the bull attacked the men, and the peo
ple settled down in their seats. There were many narrow escapes,
much vaulting over the fence and jumping behind screens ; eight
banderillas were planted, and then the espada came out and
literally butchered him, striking over and over again before he
fell. His carcass was dragged out, and also that of the dead
horse. Once more the picadores took their places, and a tame
bull walked in. This was too much for the audience, and there
was a perfect shower of cushions and seats throAvn into the arena,
and the people rose and began to surge to and fro. I sat still
until a man said to my escort : " Get higher up ; here come the
chairs and boxes." Then we began to make our way out, and it
was decidedly dangerous, as the people were tearing the boxes
to pieces and hurling everything they could into the arena —
doors, boards, and all. It was slow work getting out, but every
one helped me, all pushing and saying, " Una senora ! cuidado d
la sefiora ! " As Ave went out I looked back and saAV a wonder
ful picture. Horses, picadores, banderilleros, and the assistants,
all had retreated to the further side of the circle, and stood there
in their beautiful attire looking up at the enraged multitude and
the missiles hurled at them. On the nearer side stood the bull,

116 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
he too gazing up, transfixed with astonishment ; and all about
me was the surging mobs, the sound of their exclamations and the
cracking of breaking timbers filling the air. The few police in
side were poAverless, but as I came out a company of them armed
with rifles filed in, and as we drove away in our carriage the
rattle of musketry was the last sound to reach us from the bull
ring. It Avas a horrible three hours that I had passed, and the
nervous strain was great. The blood, the butchery of the bulls,
the poor Avouncled horses, goaded on again and again to resist
the attack, the quick catching of the breath as a man saved his
life by a sudden dexterous twist of his body or leap over the
fence, the enthusiasm which animated you in spite of the horror
of it, were all trying ; yet I am glad I went, for I firmly believe
that the Avorld is always better to-day than it Avas yesterday, and
this is but another proof of it ; for bull-fighting, which, Avith
all its attendant horrors, was once a favorite and common
pastime, has now almost vanished off the face of the earth, and
soon Ave shall know it only from books, as Ave know of the
Inquisition and of slaves sold in the market-place.

XV.
CITY OF BUENOS AYRES.
SCENES ON THE WATER FRONT — A POPULOUS TOWN WITH NAR
ROW STREETS — THE PLAZA VICTORIA — NOTABLE BUILD
INGS — THE CATHEDRAL, EXCHANGE, PALACE — POINTS OF
INTEREST.
There is a line of steamers plying between Montevideo and
Buenos Ayres whose managers buy up all opposition and man
age things to suit themselves. The steamers are fairly good,
and make the trip across the river in about twelve hours, but
one has to take a small boat to, and then scramble over the side
when in Montevideo ; and as to getting ashore in Buenos Ayres
before the time when steamers entered the Boca — well ! it was a
disagreeable picnic.
Buenos Ayres may be said not to have a harbor, as vessels of
deep draught have to anchor some tAvelve miles off. There they
discharge their cargo into lighters, which, being flat-bottomed,
can go within half a mile of the shore. From the lighters the

118 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
boxes and bales are piled into carts that are drawn by three or
more horses, and driven out into the water to reach the lighters
until just the backs and heads of the horses are above the water.
Immense loads are put into the carts, and the poor horses are
soon killed by their work, for not only are their loads heavy,
and standing in the water — often very cold — injurious, but they
are badly shod, harnessed, and most cruelly beaten as they stag
ger ashore and strain up the short, steep, illy-paved street which
leads to the custom-house. Vessels that draAv no more than ten
feet can come within four miles of the city, and from their decks
the city shows as a long line of buildings stretched along the
horizon. Passengers Avere put into small boats, and, if the river
were high enough, roAved to one end of a long pier opposite the
custom-house. If the tide was out they went ashore in a cart,
like the merchandise, making a most annoying and expensive
journey, as every change costs enormously. A port is being
built, but it will take a long time to complete it. Work was
begun about two miles south of the city and near the original
settlement, Avhere a small stream called the Riachuelo empties
into the Plate. The Riachuelo was dug out, deepened, and
Avidened, and an embankment built on either side of this basin,
with wharves on top of the embankment. A canal-like en
trance was excavated as far as the outer harbor, so now a certain
number of vessels of deep draught can enter this basin and
discharge at the wharves. They would sometimes crowd as

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 119
many as four hundred in, and it does very well in winter ; but
the Riachuelo is too small to keep a current floAving through the
basin. Thus the water is stagnant, and in summer it makes
the air so foul that there is much sickness among the shipping.
This port and the village about it is called the Boca, and it is
connected Avith the city by steam and street cars. The plan
of the port is to build a series of basins along the present city
front, and a wall-way outside of them, where the river is deep,
and then fill between the Avail and the basins. This will give
them acres and acres of ground, and they sold them long in
advance at very high prices.
Buenos Ayres is the capital of the Argentine Republic, not
the Argentine Confederation. It used to be the latter, but they
have had the war, and the blood has been spilt Avhich seems
necessary to weld nations together, and noAV they are firmly
united. Driven to desperation by the tyrannies of Juan Manuel
Rosas, a union Avas formed which triumphed, and in driving
him forth as an exile they for a time, at least, drove forth the
lawless spirit that reveled in bloody revolutions, and since then
the nation has flourished until the late financial troubles.
Rosas' life would have paid the forfeit of his years of crime had
not the English minister, a man whom he had Avantonly insulted,
lent the folds of the English flag to protect him, while he and
his boxes of treasure Avere conveyed on board an English mer
chantman lying in the outer roads.

120 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF- WAR.
The city was founded just to the south of the present site —
near the Boca — by Pedro del Mendoza, in 1535, and now con
tains about half a million inhabitants. It is a beautiful city, as
a whole, with an amount of business in the streets that croAvds
them, but the streets are narrow. I am told they were built so
because they are so much cooler in summer, but I fancy
they Avere originally built so for purposes of defense as well as
coolness. We landed at the long wharf and found it well filled with
Italian emigrants in the picturesque costumes of their native
land. Walking up, our attention Avas called to the line of
Avasherwomen along the shore. They were pursuing the same
process as those on the oriental bank of the river, only here the
river so seldom rises that the pools of water along the bank are
seldom OArerflowed, and Avomen were washing in pools that Avere
not only white with soap, but some were covered with a green
slime. It is not pleasant to contemplate wearing such clothes,
and Ave ahvays tried for a Avasherwoman who used the water
from her cistern, or, as a Japanese boy put it, got Avater on a
string. At the shore end of the wharf, a long, narrow park extends
for quite a distance along the Avater front, and it is very pretty,
with its green grass, trees, and neatly kept walks. The plaza
Victoria, named in honor of the victory of the 25th of May,
1810, is only two blocks from the landing, and is the oldest as

MONTEVIDEO, FROM THE CERRO.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 121
well as the most interesting one in town. It is eight acres in
extent, and has two grass plots, intersected by walks and sepa
rated by a broad paved roadway. In the center of one plot is
an adobe monument to Liberty in a bad state of repair, the adobe
peeling off the brick foundation in many places. Gas-pipes out
line it so that it may be illuminated, and it is surrounded by an
iron railing. In the other plot of grass is a large equestrian
bronze statue in honor of Gen. San Martin, I was told, but
there is no name on it. He eA'idently is superior to the tra
ditionary hero, who needs but the naming of his name, the tell
ing of his story.
All around the outside of these inner squares is a double row
of royal palms that flourish fairly well in spite of the cold.
Then comes the surrounding street, and finally the buildings.
One of these standing on a corner is the Cathedral, a large
imposing Avhite building, with a fine portico. There are no
toAvers, and the dome is so far back that one does not see it Avell
from the street level. Passing the portico, you enter, to find a
building which impresses you by its great size and the simple
decorations in white and gold, even the altars being chiefly
noticeable for the falls of gold and silver lace that decorate
them. Leo XIIL, the present Pope, was attached to the
cathedral when a young priest, and is said to have officiated at
its altars.
A chapel off the right aisle contained the remains of the great

122 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
general, San Martin, which are inclosed in a splendid tomb
standing in the center of the chapel, an inscription claiming
him as the liberator of the Argentine, Chilian, and Peruvian
republics. The Roman Catholic religion is supported by the
government and flourishes financially in consequence. Next
the Cathedral is the large episcopal residence, and on the
same side of the plaza, nearer the river, is the splendid new
Exchange, the old building being cleverly incorporated by the
architect. The Avhole side of the plaza next the river is occupied by a
government building that I generally heard spoken of as the
Palace. It is two stories and a mansard roof in height, and has
tAvo grand entrances. It is guarded day and night by soldiers
Avith fixed bayonets, and here are the offices of the President,
his cabinet, and many other government officials of minor
importance. It is not yet finished, a terrace at one end and the
part facing the river being only about half completed.
One of the custom-house buildings is next, and just across
Balcarce Street is the low building with a big entrance Avhich
contains the House of Parliament ; there being only one hall,
the senators and representatives sitting on alternate clays. I
wished much to enter, but Avas informed that my sex debarred
me, and all the satisfaction I could get out of it was to ask
every Argentine I Avas introduced to, Avhy ? and then let him
explain until he got tired. It Avas at the door of this building

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 123
that an attempt Avas made to assassinate General Roca when he
Avas President.
Our minister, Bayliss W. Hanna, was the first to reach the
wounded man and give him protection and assistance, an act
Avhich was never forgotten by the Argentine government, and
Mr. Hanna is a prominent figure in the painting, which Avas
executed by Seflor Blanes, the distinguished Uruguayan artist,
upon the order of Gen. Roca, in commendation of the event.
It represents the senate in session, President Roca present with
a bloody bandage about his head and Minister Hanna standing
in a small box, one or two other diplomats showing behind
him.

XVI.
SHOPS OF BUENOS AYRES.
PONCHOS IN VARIOUS STYLES — Y ALU ABLE RUGS AND ROBES 
FINE PARAGUAYAN FABRICS — BOMBILLAS AND MATE CUP
— HABIT OF MATE-DRINKING.
The streets of Buenos Ayres are uncommonly narroAv, and
the sidewalks are made to match. Two persons can pass, but
that is all, and the men are very rude about stopping to talk in
groups, which entirely obstruct the sicleAvalk. And they do
not move unless you deliberately halt and request them to let
you by. Then they do so Avith smiles and boAvs, to show their
perfect willingness to oblige. Some of the shops are filled
with beautiful objects of art, generally from France or Italy ;
but as a rule the windows are small and low, not calculated for
a fine display of goods. The majority seemed filled Avith
gentlemen's wearing apparel, such a charming display of dainty
underwear, and the men one meets are so well-dressed, so
altogether pleasing to the eye that even a stranger must con-

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 125
done their getting in your Avay, and their other habit of remark
ing in audible tones upon your appearance, telling you frankly
if you look AArell or ill, if 3rour bonnet and gown are becoming
or not ; letting you knoAV, in short, how you appear to a
stranger. It makes me smile even now to remember the indig
nation of a gentleman from one of our Southern States because
the loungers on Calle Florida informed the lady he Avas
escorting that she was decidedly homely.
Calle Florida is the BroadAvay of the city and is thronged
every afternoon, the largest crowds being near the cafe's. The
women wear Parisian gowns and hats, and Avhen young are as
pretty, plump little pigeons as one could desire. Noav and
then a beautiful elderly woman passes ; the majority, however,
lose all shape as they age. There are a great many large
Avholesale stores filled with samples and boxes, chiefly English
and German goods, Avhich make their way by railroad and ox
team into the interior. The Buenos Ayres papers ahvays give
the amount of skins and country produce brought into the city
daily, and among the reports was one market Avhere everything
quoted was brought in in large prairie-schooner wagons draAvn
by numbers of patient oxen.
The streets are filled with carts loaded with merchandise and
drawn by several horses, the leaders being harnessed with such
long traces that they often meander all over the sidewalk,
being quite beyond the control of the driver, and one has con-

126 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
stantly to keep an eye on passing vehicles to look out for
horses coming in one's Avay. The Argentine is fond of good
horseflesh, and there are many fine specimens to be seen draAv-
ing beautiful carriages, especially in the afternoon in Palermo
Park. A very interesting store to me was one filled with the pro
ducts of the country. There was wine from the province of
San Juan, Mendoza, Rioja, and Catamarca, both red and white,
and some of the claret from Catamarca was quite good. There
were piles and piles of ponchos, made of vicuna, llama, alpaca,
and sheep's wool. The finest and most expensive were of
vicuna. One beauty as soft and fine as silk cost $1,000. The
cheapest and coarsest are of sheep's wool and bring from $3 to
$4 each. They are all woven by hand and wear wonderfully
well, the fine vicufla ones often being heirlooms. I was told
that instead of putting a chip on his shoulder or requesting
some one to tread on the tail of his coat, that the man aa'Iio
wears the poncho Avhen seeking for a fight holds one corner
over his shoulder, allowing the other to trail on the ground,
and thus parades until he meets a kindred spirit, who picks up
the glove by treading on the trailing corner, and then the
fight begins. The color is generally some shade of brown,
from the lightest cafe au lait to a dark chocolate, except, of
course, the alpacas, and, being natural colors, Avear out before
they fade, the hair from the neck and stomach giving one

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 127
shade, that on the back another, and so on. The pattern is
universally stripes, running lengthwise. The markets are now
flooded Avith imitations made in England, and as they are of
good avooI, as well as cheaper, of course, than the handmade,
they are worn a great deal, but they are a different looking
article from the native ones, even when as thin and fine.
There are heavy saddle-bags and saddle-cloths of woolen and a
good many jams and marmalades made in the northern prov
inces where fruit is plentiful.
Another, to me, fascinating store was filled with rugs made
from the skins of native animals, and there were also -large
piles of the raw material so that one could select the skins and
have a rug made to order. The prettiest, as well as the most
fragile, are those made from the native ostrich and costing about
$50 each. Next come those made from the necks of the vicuna,
which are from $80 to $130 each ; they are fawn and white in
color, and the hair is as soft as down. There are guanaco robes
from $15 to $40, and grebe, fox, otter, and other skins for all
sorts of prices. Two other stores were charming, and their con
tents beguiling, although hidden away on side streets and hard
to find. They were for the sale of Paraguayan articles, among
which is lace that looks like spider webs, and is called so
(fianduti) in the Guarani tongue, made by the native women,
who were taught by the Jesuit missionaries many years ago ;
gold puzzle rings made of fine Avires fitted together to make a

128 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
broad band ; boAvs and arrows, necklaces of guanaco toe-nails
and of monkey's teeth ; specimens of rude pottery and bales of
mate" leaves, covered with skins, the hair on the outside ; bom-
billas, a tube with a bulb at one end, and the bulb pierced Avith
tiny holes to strain the mate" herb from the tea as it is sucked
up, and a seemingly endless variety of mate' cups. Some of
these latter were made of silver, but generally they are small
gourds, Avith a piece of the stem left on for a handle. Some
are allowed to retain their natural color, others are dyed red
and a pattern engraved upon them, but the majority are dyed
black and left plain. The carving on some is very elaborate.
Some are mounted on stands of silver and elaborately bound
and decorated Avith the same precious metal. Occasionally the
fruit is tied while growing and made to assume all sorts of
shapes. A small round hole is cut in one side to clean out the
seeds, and also for the introduction of the bombilla. These
bombillas are generally made of silver or tin, but I secured a
few of Indian make, bamboo tube with basket-work bulbs, and
in Cordoba Ave got from the nuns some dainty ones of decorated
bamboo tubes and white horsehair strainers.
Mate", generally called Paraguayan tea, is made from the leaf
of a small tree of the holly species — ilex Paraguayensis — Avhich
flourishes in parts of Paraguay. The leaves are gathered, pre
pared, and then carefully packed in fresh hide bags, Avhich con
tract Avhen drying and make a package as hard as a stone. It

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 129
is a yellowish green in color, and a teaspoonful of mate* powder
is put into the gourd, a small lump of sugar also if you like it,
and then the cup is filled Avith boiling water, the bombilla in
serted, and the infusion sucked through it. Fully three-fourths
of the natives of Uruguay and the Argentine drink mate", and
the quantity they consume is astonishing. A silversmith in the
toAvn of Paysandu told me he only drank thirty to fifty cups in
a clay, and I have often seen a dozen emptied one after the
other, and the cup sent out for more. Officers and soldiers
standing at the barrack doors are drinking mate", and there is
generally a gourd passing among the guard at the palace.
Women and girls run to the door to see something pass, or
stand there talking, Avith the inevitable mate" gourd in one hand.
In small stores a man will imbibe mate" Avhile attending to your
Avants. In short, you see it used eAreryAvhere except in the
houses of fashionable people in the cities, where it is no longer
stylish to drink it, tea having taken its place. I have often
tasted it, as it is the universal custom to offer some refreshment
to callers, and when mate1 Avas passed of course we partook. It
tastes like Aveak green tea, and would not be disagreeable were
it not that in a group of people only one gourd and one bombilla
is used, being passed to each person in turn, and one has to put
in their mouth the unwiped end of a metal tube that has been
in more or less mouths present.
There are several markets about town, and they are always

130 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
well filled. Vegetables are plenty, but expensive ; meat cheap
and poor. It does not seem to have been properly bled, and is
very lean. It is also sold too soon after being killed. In the
morning there are plenty of fish, which are brought from
Montevideo. Fruit is scarce, and, like everything else, expen
sive.

XVII.
OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN THE SUBURBS OF
BUENOS AYRES.
CURIOUS BURIAL CUSTOMS — THE NAVAL ACADEMY — THE
PUBLIC SCHOOLS AND THEIR AMERICAN TEACHERS — PA
LERMO PARK AND ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN.
There is an old, aristocratic burial-ground in Buenos Ayres,
which is called Recoleta, and within its boundaries rests the
dust of Lavalle, BroAvn, and Alvear, with many another of their
famous generals, admirals, and Brazilian patriots. It is quite at
one side of the city, and was doubtless entirely in the country
Avhen first consecrated, but now the broad new avenues reach out
to it, and only the large park, which begins just here, keeps it from
being surrounded by bricks and mortar other than of its OAvn
choosing, for a high brick Avail shuts it in from the traffic of the
street, and a high, wide gate of iron bars forms the only entrance.
Inside, and to the left of the gate, is an office, in which sits a
clerk behind a table waiting for customers. On the right is a bare,
cheerless little chapel, with an altar, before which stood the two

132 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
black carpenter's horses to rest a coffin on. A priest in his long
black cassock sat reading a book with a most demure and
proper-looking cover, so I fancy it Avas a book of prayers. Every
thing appeared so ready, all Avas so prepared, that one involun
tarily looked out into the street to see if a funeral procession
Avas not approaching. Passing on, the visitor enters a labyrinth
of narrow walks — for here space means money — on either side
of which are tombs and monuments of every conceiA^able size,
shape, and design. Different colored stones are used, and occa
sionally a full-length statue varies the monotony. Some are
cheap and tawdry, others, and by far the greater number, beau
tiful. The favorite plan seemed to be to buy a plot, about eight
or more feet square, build over it the prettiest chapel of marble
one can afford, excavate the earth a long Avay down like a square
well, concrete this, and fasten strong iron brackets into the Avail
on each side every feAv feet, these brackets serving to hold the
coffins. An altar is built in the chapel, and in front of it, in
the floor, is an open grating, which is raised to admit the coffins,
and through Avhich they can be plainly seen. In some of the
oldest ones the vault beloAv is full, and coffins have been placed
on brackets about the chapel Avails. The entrance to nearly all
the chapel tombs is an iron grated gate Avith glass doors inside,
the glass doors being ahvays set ajar or left wide open for ven
tilation. One imagines all sorts of odors, and as all sorts of dis
eases are buried there it is to be hoped that the coffins are

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 133
hermetically sealed. There are many wreaths of flowers on
coffins and in the chapels ; some made of immortelles, others of
beads, but the majority of natural beauties. There are fountains
and evergreen trees to brighten things up, Avhile about some of
the very oldest graves there is a bit of bright green turf, the
body having been laid at rest in Mother Earth in the usual Avay
— a flat slab on top, and around it all an iron railing.
On one side of the grave-yard stands the poor-house, a large
handsome building, with a lovely garden full of floAvers about
it. I always wonder when I see such beautiful things about
charitable institutions if the poor inmates are alloAved to enjoy
them, or if they are for show. As I said before, just here
begins the park, called Recoleta, after the cemetery. It is
long, narrow, well laid out, and pleasing. Perhaps a little
too much imitation petrified Avood, which makes bridges,
lies about like fallen trunks for benches, and forms a grotto,
and appears everywhere, but the grass is so green, the
trees, floAvers, shrubs, and running water so pretty, that one
is charmed Avith the place.
At the foot of the grotto is a pond with lovely ducks of
varied plumage SAvimming about in it, and, just beyond, benches
whence one sees out into the yellow expanse of river Avater,
with ships passing to and fro ; there is a nice carriage drive
throughout its whole length, Avhich in the afternoon is
thronged with fine turnouts.

134 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
Near the southern end, on the Avenida Alvear, was the
naval school, modeled somewhat after ours, by Gen. Domingo
Sarmiento, Avho represented his country at Washington for
a while, admired many of our institutions immensely, and
later, when he was President, introduced many of them to
his own people.
The naval academy has lately been moved more than 200
miles up the Parana River to a place Avhich, Avhen compared
to the Avenida Alvear, is a howling wilderness. Our public
schools were especially interesting to Gen. Sarmiento, and he
brought out teachers from the States to preside over them,
and as the system spreads a few more are added every year.
They are well paid and looked after, being under the protec
tion of the government; but the standard is high, only the
best are taken, and the work is hard, besides the fact that
to accept a position means living here aAvay from one's friends
and country. Teaching is carried on principally in Spanish.
English is only a branch, so the teachers must speak the
language like natives. They are a fine body of women, and
we met some charming ones. The first ones married so soon
after their arrival that the government began to be discouraged,
and they are still in demand ; for the rara avis, a woman avIio
can make her own living, order her life and household so that,
although she live alone, not a breath of scandal touches
her, is admired and desired, yet it is difficult for the people

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 135
to believe their daughters could do the same. Occasionally
the government shows its appreciation of their work in a
manner that must be gratifying. For instance, the Roman
Catholic is the established church, yet Avhen the Papal legate
interfered unwarrantably with the management of a school
under a Miss Armstrong, and both appealed to headquarters,
he was given twenty-four hours to leave the country in, and
left. This is the story as I several times heard it related,
and the sister of the young Avoman afterward told me, at my
request, the tale, and it did not differ materially. Passing
along the streets in the afternoon you see children pouring
out of the graded school buildings even as they do at home,
and it warms your heart to see them and think what strides
this country Avill make once these children come of age, the
boys to force free votes and a true republic, the girls to aid
them by making them intelligent companions and forming
in their nurseries the minds and manners of their children.
They use the kindergarten as well as the graded and normal
systems. In small villages there is always a school, and while
I have heard foreigners speak slightingly of these outposts,
they always struck me as quite as good as any I saw in
Germany, better, in fact, because they are free.
The large city park is called Palermo, and lies in one of the
suburbs, its official name being, I believe, Third of February,
but as it is neArer called so it does not count. It is reached

130 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
by carriage, horse-cars, or the Tigre railroad. We went out
the second way, taking a train at the Plaza Victoria, Avhich,
after passing through the city and Avay out into the suburbs,
stopped before a large gateway, inside of Avhich another car
was waiting to take passengers to the military school which
is in the grounds. We entered and had a regular John
Gilpin ride for about fifteen minutes.
There Avas a track to run on, but the driver preferred the
pavement, so Ave rattled and jounced, the Avindows rattled and
shook, while one of the male passengers tried to hold the floor-
grating in place, which task kept him busy. The end of the
route Avas reached with all our teeth in our heads, but we had
not enjoyed the scenery. We saw the low, white buildings of
the military school at one side and walked on past it into the
grove of trees and along the neat gravel paths. There are
about fifty acres in all, perfectly flat, with trees and floAvers
planted in numbers, and the former'chiefly eucalyptus, the only
notable exception being the rows of palms beside the main
drive. There is an extensive zoological garden with many good
specimens of lamas, condors, monkeys, leopards, and any
quantity of ducks, as well as a pen and tank filled Avith car-
pinchos, an animal that looks to me like a cross between a pio-
and an otter. They live along the banks of rivers in this
country, spending a great deal of time in the water, and are

INDEPENDENCE SQUARE, MONTEVIDEO.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 137
killed and eaten by the natives, the flesh of the young ones
being said to taste like pork. They have the shortest kind of
a tail, waddle when walking, and are covered with broAvnish
gray bristles.
A stream of Avater is led about through the park, and, in
addition to the ducks which live in the ponds, many wild ones
alight daily to feed. Pretty little bridges cross the stream, and
there are seats and pavilions all about. A band plays on
Thursday and Sunday afternoons, when the grand drive is sure
to be crowded Avith handsome carriages filled Avith the fashion
ables of the city, and drawn by splendid horses, most of them
imported. This park was another of Sarmiento's ideas.

XVIII.
THE CITY OF LA PLATA.
ITS SPLENDID BANKS, MUSEUM, PARK, AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS —
HOW IT WAS PROPOSED TO MAKE A SEAPORT OUT OF AN
INLAND VILLAGE — GREAT CALCULATIONS ON THE FUTURE 
SUBURBS OF BELGRANO AND TIGRE.
There are a great many large plazas in Buenos Ayres and
most of them well cared for. The city spreads out over an
immense amount of ground, thanks to the one-storied houses,
and in riding about on the various street-car lines one is often
surprised by pretty plazas, and also surprised by the lack of
knowledge as to their names and extent on the part of the
other people in the car. They are all Avilling and almost
anxious to discuss the question and help you, but they cannot.
Victoria I have already attempted to describe. San Martin, at
the northern end of Florida Street, has a colossal statue in
bronze of Gen. San Martin on horseback, and a great many
lovely flowers, as well as odd-looking trees and shrubs. It is

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 139
surrounded by a wide avenue, and here, in the afternoon,
troops from the neighboring barracks come out to drill, the
dark, swarthy faces of the men, Avho seem mostly Indians and
negroes, the white faces of the officers, the full, baggy breeches
of the men, and the strange music of the band, all being very
attractive. As they moved, the undulating lines reminded me
strongly of the Italian Bersaglieri, but the step is different- —
one foot seems put down Avith more force than the other. They
seemed Avell-armed and equipped, but must have been ineffi
ciently or badly drilled, keeping front badly and failing in
detail. Plaza Constitucion is unusually large, and here there are
ahvays a greater or less number of large country bullock-carts,
like our old prairie wagons, only these have much larger wheels
so as to lift the body higher out of the mud, and the majority
have only two wheels. Blue seems to be the favorite color to
paint the wagon bodies, and the roof, instead of being even with
the ends of the body, projects slightly before and behind. They
are drawn by from three to six yoke of large oxen, Avith the
cruel way of fastening them that is prevalent in these coun
tries. Instead of a yoke they take a heavy beam of Avood, lay it
just behind the horns of the two animals, tie the horns firmly
to the end and lash the center to the pole, so the)' draw entirely
by their horns. The weight brings their heads about doAvn to
their knees, and their starting eyeballs and the expression on

140 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
their poor faces show they are in torture. Finally I declined
to look at them in their trouble and looked away when I saw a
cart coming. The drivers are generally men from the interior,
and they bring in cattle and nutria skins and all sorts of country
produce. There is a large number of newspapers published in the city,
and there is a beautiful illustrated paper also, but none of their
dailies pleased me as much as M Sigh, of Montevideo, Avhich
Avas most ably edited. The news came high, as papers Avere
dear, but they did not copy one another as our papers in the
States are apt to do, and you found all the news in their
columns. On the Plaza Constitucion is a large railway station,
and here, one lovely day, we took a train for the city of La
Plata. When Buenos Ayres Avas finally chosen as the seat of the
general government, the province of Buenos Ayres selected a
site, about twenty-five miles to the south, and here in the fields
they laid out a city to be called La Plata. The railway to it
passes over a flat but fertile plain, Avith cultivated fields and
many houses, and occasionally we halted at thrifty-looking
little villages, with the usual number of eucalyptus trees
about them. There were birds singing in the hedges, and
cattle and native ostriches feeding in the fields. Altogether it
was a flat, smiling, prosperous-looking bit of country. Arrived
at our destination, we alighted in a large, splendid, almost

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 141
finished station, built, as is everything else in this city, Avith
tAvo eyes to the future. Millions of money have been spent,
and all that now is needed is people to live in the houses and
throng the streets. They are coming, but very sloAvly. The
streets are broad, straight, and Avell-paved, as are also the side
walks. There are several fine government buildings, and to
each is allotted a whole square, the building being set in the
center, and the remaining space laid out as a garden, filled Avith
flowers and fountaiiu, so that each building has a lovely
setting. The Banco de la Provincia and the Banco Hipotecario sur
pass any bank buildings that I ever saAV or heard of. They are
like palaces. Each one stands in the center of a city square, and,
like the government buildings, is several stories high, of gray
stone, with fine, grand entrances, and the grounds about them
beautifully laid out, with chives, Avalks, statues, flowers, and
shrubs. On the side of the city toward the river, which is nine
miles off, a grand park is laid out, and hundreds of eucalyptus
trees have been planted and are flourishing, but it needs more
care than it gets. In the park is the museum building, and it
will be a fine one when completed. There is a curving drive
guiding one up to the fine flight of steps beloAv the entrance
door, and passing the latter you find yourself in a large, circular
hall, ornamented with frescoes, which seemed to me to be hor
rible daubs, artistically considered, yet they were interesting

142 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
because they represented scenes from the life of the aborigines.
In one, a number of people with fewer clothes than ballet dan
cers, were cutting up and eating a mammoth turtle ; in another
they were throwing the lasso, and in the third, these sons of
the soil are threading a trackless forest. Two halls were in
order, one containing the collection of fossils, for which this
museum of the province of Buenos Ayres is famous through
all the world, and the other hall showing a fine collection of
ancient Peruvian pottery. Passing through the park and keep
ing on toward the river, one comes to the little village of
Ensenada. It is six miles inland, but a grand scheme is on
foot to build a system of docks and dikes to make this a river
port. A large part of the work is done, and if the money sup
plies do not give out, it will in time be accomplished. Small
trading vessels can noAV come up as far as Ensenada through a
canal, Avhile large ships come alongside the docks several miles
down. The Avork is in charge of Dutchmen, and is being much
better clone than at Buenos Ayres in the Boca. A railroad to
Buenos Ayres leads right doAvn to the entire length of the
proposed improvements. The village is now a dusty, dirty,
uninteresting little place to the ordinary tourist.
There is a street-railway service in La Plata, and hacks are
plenty and cheap. They have gas, electric-lights, and, in short,
it is a city of to-day. There are several pretty suburbs to
Buenos Ayres, but Belgrano was my favorite ; the flowers,

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 143
trees, and quintas — country houses — being especially pretty,
while there was also an attractive, sloping park, mostly of
green-sward, between the town and raihvay station, with a nice
large ombu tree to sit under, and enjoy the country air and vieAV.
The ombu is a native of this part of the world, and belongs to
the fig family. It grows to a fine height and the branches ghre
a dense shade, under which no insect cares to dwell. The
trunk always looked to me too large in proportion for beauty,
but its most striking peculiarity is the big bunch of roots at
the base of the trunk showing above the ground.
Tigre is a favorite summer resort with many, and it has nu
merous Avaterways about it like canals, which are the southern
mouths of the Parana delta. It is pleasant pulling about upon
them, the Ioav dividing islands being filled Avith fruit trees,
especially peach and pear. Every here and there a house
nestles among the trees, making a pretty picture, or you pass a
float and boathouse, all the boat clubs of the city having quar
ters here. There is also the national navy-yard, and some tor
pedo-boats and small craft Avere laid up alongside the bank. It
is difficult to imagine how anything of much draft could be
gotten out if needed, unless they made a long trip up this branch
of the Parana to San Pedro, and then came down the main
branch. Tigre gets its name from the capture there of a South
American leopard, which the natives call a tiger. It probably
came down the river on one of the many floating islands, and

144 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
must have made a long journey. When we went ashore to ex
plore one of these islands the mosquitoes were so numerous and
hungry that we returned to our boat and to Buenos Ayres
dinnerless, but having furnished dinner to many hungry
hummers.

XIX.
UP THE URUGUAY RIVER— CITY OF COLONIA.
A MEMORABLE CHRISTMAS — THE HEROIC THIRTY-THREE—
WHERE THE FIRST BLOW FOR INDEPENDENCE WAS
STRUCK — THE LIEBIG EXTRACT HEAD-QUARTERS — PICT
URESQUE COSTUMES.
On the Uruguay bank of the river of the same name is the
ancient and pretty little town of Colonia. It is built on a-
point stretching out into the river and is near the junction of
the Parana and Uruguay, Avhich unite to form the Rio de la
Plata — or " The Platte," as Englishmen persist in calling it —
some eighty or ninety miles above Montevideo. It Avas one of
the first forts, and Avas held alternately by the Portuguese and
Spanish in colonial days, being a bone of contention because of
its situation and the large settlements of Indians near at hand.
As seen from the river it looks very gray and quite large, the
two more prominent objects being the church with two towers
10

140 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
and a round dome and a round windmill that looks as if it had
drifted doAvn here from Holland and felt lonely and forlorn.
Christmas day ! and a lovelier one never dawned, as far as
nature Avas concerned, than that Avhich greeted us one year
not long ago, in the little toAvn of Colonia del Sacramento,
which lay smiling in the sunshine ; the fair, green country
stretched aAvay on either side, and a faint, soft, northern
breeze rippled the water, idly flapped the sails of an anchored
schooner, and, farther out, lifted the pennant and fluttered the
folds of the ensign on one of Uncle Sam's men-of-war that
looked as bright as paint and care could make her. At the
wharf lay a little passenger steamer that in the morning had
come over from Buenos Ayres ; about noon she got up steam
for the return trip, and soon after, three young men came
down the narrow, crooked old street that widened where
it reached the police barracks, until there was quite a little
plaza between them, the hotel and the head of the Avharf.
One of the men turned into the police barracks, the other
two kept on until they reached a watchman's hut at the
shore end of the wharf, behind which they placed them
selves and carefully watched the plaza. There were a good
many people in the hotel, dining ; while a few came straying
down the street and went on board the steamer.
Finally, as it Avas nearing time for the steamer to leave,
tAvo men appeared upon the scene. One glanced about

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 147
rather apprehensively, for he knew that he had ruined the
daughter of the Jefe Politico, some two years before and
then refused to marry her, taking refuge and marrying in
the neighboring republic. Her father followed him to the
Argentine at the time, seeking his life, and could not find
him, but left Avord that he must keep out of Uruguay or take
the consequences. He had ventured over, because he knew
the Jefe was in Montevideo, but he forgot the sons, yet they
were there, and, when they saw him coming, advanced, and
firing began ; for a few minutes the four men Avere rushing
about the open space, then the betrayer fell, and his prother-
in-laAV was chased into a little butcher-shop and finished.
Then the firing ceased, and the police sallying out gathered
up two dead men, two badly Avoundecl men, four pistols, and
a SAVord cane ; but they could not gather up the blood Avhich
was in spots all over the pavement, sideAvalks, and houses.
The people gathered as if by magic, as soon as the firing
ceased, for one soon learns to seek shelter in South America,
Avhen one hears shots in the street; and then the tumult
began. The two Avounded boys, eighteen and twenty-four
years of age, Avere behind the barred archway of the police
quarters with their brother, Avho passed in there as they first
came down. These boys seem to have been rather AAdld,
and the father Avas said to be then in Montevideo explain
ing something they had written ; anyway, in spite of the

148 ALONGSHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
stain on their honor that they had Aviped out, they were
intensely unpopular, and the people Avantecl their blood, seem
ing entirely reckless as to how much of their own was spilt
in getting that for Avhich they thirsted.
Uruguay is divided into provinces, and the chief civil offi
cers, who are appointed by the president, and represent him,
are called Jefe Politicos, political chiefs, the Constitution pro
viding that they shall not be military men. Under them is
a Primero Official, first official, who acts in their absence ;
hence the first officer took charge in Colonia and proceeded
to act. He had only twelve police, and in answer to his
telegrams for help sent to Montevideo, he was told to do
the best he could. Twelve police to guard two Avounded
boys and prevent a revolution in the toAvn by calming the
excited populace who were collecting in groups, painting red
daggers on doors and talking excitedly. The brother-in-
law who was murdered because he happened to be with the
betrayer, was much liked and numerously related. He had
lived in the country, but wishing educational advantages for
his eight children, he had just moved into town and opened
a small shop, where he lived with his family, as well as
the helpless mother of his Avife, and his death seemed with
out excuse. In a couple of hours Ave saAV two cheap cof
fins carried down the street and taken into the police bar
racks, soon they were brought out with the bodies in them,

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 149
which must haye been stripped, as beside each coffin Avalked
a man with a hat and a bundle of bloody clothes. I was
told that their throats had been cut, and had grown so
used to tales of cutting throats of dead people and prisoners
that I see no reason to doubt it. A croAvd followed the
bodies to the little shop where the Avidow and children Avere
waiting, and by this time the first officer, who Avas thoroughly
frightened and longing for help, bethought him of the man-
of-war in the harbo:-. He appealed to the Captain for armed
men to prevent riot and bloodshed and aid him in protect
ing his prisoners as well as the lives of innocent people
who Avould be killed.
He Avas advised by the Captain not to call for aid unless
he positively needed it, but seeing his position and hearing
the people talk, it was impossible not to agree as to the
gravity of the situation, and as he insisted, some of our
marines, prepared for business, Avere put in boats and taken
to the shore, but not alloAved to land until the Captain had
once more seen the official, and urged him to make an appeal
the better class of people to aid him and try and do with
out external assistance.
Finally, he said the men could go back, and that if there
was immediate danger he would make a signal by firing a
gun and hoisting a lantern, then he would need help and
was assured that he should have it. TAvilight came and

150 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
Avent, and the stars came out, making a glorious Christmas night,
but still the little town was troubled, some three hundred men
gathered in a hall and declined to separate or help the First
Official, his prisoners were unpopular and he could not get
anyone to forego the pleasures of a revolution by helping
him to avert it. At last he saAV no other course open to
him, and at nine o'clock he made the signal for help. All
Avas quiet on the ship, the men were in their hammocks
and the officers grouped on deck or in the ward-room,
talking of the day ashore ; but in a moment all was activity,
the marines jumped into their clothing, and receiving ammu-
tion and rations, took their places in the boats that had
been manned and brought alongside; fifteen minutes past
nine and they shoved off from the ship. Twenty-five men
and an officer landed at the Avharf, formed and marched
through the croAvd to the police barracks' gate, turned in
and vanished from the following gaze of the croAvd, but
their appearance, bearing and business air, had been marked,
the crowd knew they Avere there, and it made a nest of
hornets that they did not care to disturb, so Avithout any
orders or Avarnings, group after group dissolved and Avent
home, the grand meeting dispersed and all slept but those
on guard — so passed the birthday of the Prince of Peace.
The next morning the dead men Avere buried and some
violent talk was indulged in over the remains, but the

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 151
knowledge of an obstinate fight, if a row was begun or the
barracks attacked, cooled their ardor effectually, and when
in the afternoon a little Uruguayan man-of-Avar came gliding
into port, all Avas calm on the surface ; but soldiers Avere
landed and the place put under martial laAAr, the President
having deposed the old Jefe Politico, and contrary to laAv,
having appointed a military man in his place, who came
up on the vessel. Our marines returned aboard and peace
was gradually restored, but a number of coAv-boys and hard
characters came into the toAvn the next day in hopes of
finding a pretty row on hand from which they could pluck
some advantage.
The toAvn noAv has about 2,000 inhabitants and seems a thriv
ing, happy, quiet place. There are some curious old streets
with Avorn pavements, high side-walks, and crumbling houses,.
with stone benches along the fronts, on which Spaniards and
Portuguese have lounged, feasting their triumphs, and quarrel
ing over defeats before our century Avas begun. Here the houses
are low and set close to the street, the windoAVS and doors
uncommonly small and protected by heavy wooden shutters, the
interiors dark, smoke-stained, and irregular, contrasting forcibly
with the gardens at the rear, full of bright floAvers and sunshine.
In the new part of the town the principal streets are General
Flores and the Eighteenth of July. These are broad, well
paved, and laid out in straight lines, the houses and shops along

152 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
them shining with fresh paint. There is a large plaza, carefully
graveled, Avith benches and some tiny trees set around the sides.
This is quite a neAv plaza and arranged in the latest Monte-
videan fashion, but I liked the little, old grass-grown one beside
the church much better. Just on the outskirts of the village is
the bull-ring, and we investigated it thoroughly when empty,
but never happened to be there during the season, which is in
summer. Bull fights are not alloAved in the Argentine, but
they are in Uruguay, so, as Buenos Ayres is only thirty miles
away, across the river, some capitalists built the ring at Colonia,
run a steamer over for the fights, and thus the native of Ar
gentine can easily satisfy his longings for a bloody fight.
About half a mile beyond was the cemetery, and near that
the beach where one can still gather bola stones left there by
the Indians, for here Avas their largest village of all those near
the colony. The views of the surrounding country are lovely,
rolling, undulating fields of rich green clover, Avith cactus
hedges and cattle roaming about, seemingly at Avill ; here and
there a clump of trees and under them the gleam of the Avhite
house of some estanciero. Then comes the broad river Avith its
many islands, some of the latter forming the harbor, as there is
no curve to the shore, only a straight stretch of green bank,
which leads you on, up past Martin Garcia flats, which are
always bestrewn with wrecks and vessels aground, and so on
up the Uruguay river.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 153
The Uruguay is a magnificent river, which rises in Brazil,
sweeps around in a colossal curve on its way to the ocean, and
so curving forms the western boundary of Uruguay, separating
it from the Argentine province of Entre Rios. Broad and deep,
with low banks on either side, and some Ioav islands in it, the
river is an ideal highway for commerce, but it is not pictur
esque. Miles of low, marsh-like banks, covered Avith coarse grass
and gnarled, stunted trees, among Avhich live snakes, leopards,
and carpinchos ; here and there the hut of a Avood-gatherer in a
tiny clearing, its mud Avails and roof of brown thatch seeming
to melt into the natural tints of its surroundings until it is
scarcely visible ; here and there a long stretch of green meadow,
a Ioav bluff, or a view of rolling country, relieves the monotony ;
but always, everywhere, herds of horned cattle, horses, and
sheep grazing and wandering about. This is what you see day
after day, except the small pretty towns on the banks. Below
Paysandu they are all, with one exception, on the Uruguay side
of the river, that bank being the highest, and they are generally
built on a point that stretches out into the river or on a low bluff.
Carmelita is on a point, and next above is Nueva Palmyra, fa
mous as the place near Avhich thirty-and-three Orientales landed
and raised the standard of revolt, thus beginning the war which
ended in the liberation of their native Uruguay from the yoke
of Brazil. The thirty-three are worshipped as heroes, almost
as saints, and an old man who sometimes came to the hotel in

154 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
Montevideo to play billiards with friends was pointed out to me
as most admirable and worthy of note, because he fought under
the thirty-three. He had snoAA'-Avhite hair and a fine, intellect
ual face. The thirty-three made their plans and arrangements
in the Argentine province of Entre Rios, and crossing the river,
landed on a sandy beach just above Nueva Palmyra. The exact
spot is marked by a low, white monument, Avhich is soon to be
surrounded by a park, the government having accepted the
adjacent land for that purpose. Fray Bentos and Independencia
are built on two points with only a curving beach betAveen, In
dependencia being a regular town and Fray Bentos consisting
solely of the great Liebig extract-of-beef factory, buildings de
pendent on it, and cottages for the workmen. At the wharf
lay four large foreign barks and a small Uruguayan steamer,
all taking in cargoes.
The highest town Ave could go to was the large one of Pay-
sandu, and here Ave stopped for some time. It is built on
ground Avhich slopes gradually toward the river, and the houses
look like orchestra chairs as viewed from the stage, the stage in
this case being the broad river, while at the farther end of the
main aisle or street stands the cathedral. Paysandu is a thriv
ing place, AA'ith a good deal of commerce in hides, skins, and
beef tongues, and is soon to be connected by rail Avith Monte
video. The firm of merchants doing the most business, and hav
ing the only fine large warehouses in the place, is that of Huf-

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 155
nagel &- Plottier, the elder member being an American, one of
our citizens, and also our vice-consul. The city Avas a favorite
fighting ground during the frequent revolutions that formerly
SAvept over the country, and some brave fighting has been clone
there, one of its defenses being celebrated in prose and poetry.
The streets are ill-paved, but the sideAvalks are good and the
houses also, having pretty inner courts and gardens filled with
plants and fruit trees. Some of the streets have orange trees
planted along the curbs, and they look very pretty Avith the
ripe fruit and flowers on them. The cathedral is a large, fine
one, Avith tAvo toAvers in front and a dome over the high altar.
Its proportions are good, and the interior, Avith its simple
decorations, admirable. On the occasion of our first visit there
were several women moving about, pinning large bows of ribbon
on the clean Avhite altar-cloths, placing immense bunches of
SAveet natural floAvers everyAvhere, preparing for Sunday, which
was the feast of Our Lady of the Rosary. Several stores are
for the sale of fine silver ornaments for saddles and bridles, they
being made in Paysanclu, the silver hammered into beautiful
shapes and designs by the intelligent Avorkmen, the Avhip
handles, knife-sheaths, and saddle-yokes being especially ornate
and good. Most of the men dress in the modern guacho, or
cow-boy style, that is, some kind of a Ioav, soft hat, flannel shirt
and poncho, a broad belt, pair of very full trousers, plaited in at
the waist and around the ankles, the costume finished off by a

156 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
pair of low boots or canvas shoes with rope soles, — such as are
used at home for bathing shoes, — the latter seeming to be great
favorites. These suits are quite picturesque and said to be
especially comfortable for horsebacks One clay we drove about
five miles in the country to visit the estancia of one Seflor Mon-
grell, a native. The road was broad and poor, the sides of it
bright Avith red verbena blossoms, that plant being a native of
the country ; now and then Ave drove through a little brook,
and passed the corner of the estancia of the Spanish consul,
which is sixty-three square miles in extent, and given up
entirely to grazing. The rich green fields are everywhere
separated by smooth wire fences, barbed wire being tabooed in
all these countries as a barbarous, cruel invention ; and in the
fields Avere grazing a great many horses and cattle, as well as
some of the small native ostriches. Mongrell's estancia is given
over to raising young from imported cattle, to sell to other es-
tancieros and improving his own stock. He had some fine
English and French stallions and mares, each in a big box-
stall. Some fine Durham and Holstein bulls and coavs, and
quite a flock of merino sheep. The latter came from Vermont.
The house was a low adobe one, and faced on three sides • of a
court. The center was the residence, and the wings for offices
and kitchens. There was a broad piazza to the residence, and
Ave sat there some time, talking to the pretty seiiora and her
children, the seflor having unfortunately gone to a neighbor's,

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 157
so we missed him. Several neighbors rode up as Ave sat there,
and mate" Avas passed. As we drove back the country looked
lovely in the afternoon sunlight, and we later enjoyed a dinner
in Mr. Hufnagel's roomy patio, under the budding grape-vines,
surrounded by flowers, and the moon so bright that the lamp
was superfluous.

XX.
PAYSANDU AND THE CAPITAL OF ENTRE RIOS.
REMINISCENCES OF THE TYRANT URQUIZA — HIS ALTAR IN
THE CATHEDRAL  THE SPLENDID UNIVERSITY AT CONCEP-
CION — AN AMERICAN GIRL'S KINDERGARTEN.
Our next Adsit to Paysandu was made a year later, and Ave
found the toAvn looking much the same as it did the year
before, only this time Ave came in the season when balls and
operas Avere the order of the day. We Avent to a ball given by
a Club, and it Avas a most creditable affair. The rooms Avere
good-sized, well-decorated, the music good, the supper the
same, and the very best families there to dance Avith. The
only dances they have which are different from ours are a
quadrille and the danza. In the quadrille every one stands
up in two long lines, the music begins to play, and you begin
to boAV — every feAV steps you bow, and in fact you cannot bow
too often ; it is the essence of the dance. The danza is a

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 159
round — Avell, not a round dance, but a round walk-around.
The music is sIoav and pretty, with the sound of castanets
in it. One takes tAvo short steps to one side, turns half
around, and then takes two steps in another direction, keep
ing it up any length of time, and dancing it Avithout any
trouble. The opera-house is large, fairly Avell appointed,
and Avould be comfortable if these people would only once
acknowledge that they have a Avinter and prepare for it. Then
they w"ould close up some of the cracks in the partitions, shut
the doors, and warm the place. As it is, we sat in our heaviest
wraps, with shawls over our knees, and heard "Faust" and
"Ernani" very Avell sung. The set for the garden scene for
" Faust " was a patio Avith a tiled cistern in the center, and
all the plants set out in tubs and kerosene cans, which un
doubtedly struck the native as quite the proper thing, and it
did -not look badly.
The only town on the right bank of the Uruguay is ten
miles below Paysandu and is called Concepcion del Uruguay,
for two reasons : firstly, because it is popularly supposed to be
on the river, and, secondly, to distinguish it from another Con
cepcion in the Argentine Republic. The city used to have a
good port, and as it was the capital of the province of Entre
Rios, had a good deal of trade, but an island formed in front
of it and has grown until now only the smallest trading Ares-
sels can make their way up the narrow, shallow channel to

160 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
the wharves, and everything of any size must anchor in the
river some three miles away.
A railway has been built from Parana, on the Parana River,
the neAV capital of the province, to this city, and the railway
company, has run a long mole and wharf aAvay out to the
recent deep anchorage. We landed at this, and the railway
authorities kindly sent down a hand-car, which took us to the
shore end of the mole, where a carriage was waiting. Just
here there are tAvo large brick buildings, one of them a custom
house and the other for the use of the captain of the port,
and we went in to call on the last-named official. He was a
pleasant man of the usual Spanish type in appearance, and
the most conspicuous article on his Avriting-table was a big
Colt's reArolver, placed there, perhaps, as a compliment to
the Norte Americanos.
The roads are splendid and we drove quickly over one of
them across the intervening plain, and were Avhirled into the
town and up to the main plaza, where we alighted and began
to explore. Entre Rios, like most of the other provinces Avhen
the Argentine was a confederation, and not a republic, as it is
iioav, had its share of tyrants, but he who eclipsed them all Avas
Gen. Jose Urquiza, shining second only in the infamous con
stellation to Juan Manuel Rosas, of Buenos Ayres, and being
rivaled by Lopez, of Paraguay. Urquiza managed to get pos
session of most of the land in the province and lived like a czar.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 161
His grand palace was at San Jose, about ten miles from Con-
cepcion, but on one side of the plaza Ave saw a large, fine house,
known as his town palace, and it is by far the finest residence
in the city. We caught a glimpse of a lovely patio through
the open gate, but some of the family were living there, which
prevented our going farther in. One side of the plaza Avas
occupied by the cathedral and university, standing side by side.
The latter is a famous institution, and had been established
thirty-six years the 28th of this July. Youths from all this
part of South America attend it, and it is so Avell endowed by
the general government that even the poorest ambitious young
man has a chance, for the charges are only ten nationals a
year, and a small matriculation fee. The buildings are large
and comfortable, the corps of professors numerous, and said to
be excellent, while the regular and elective courses of study ,
seem very comprehensive. They have a drill-room, gym
nasium, and good showing of apparatus in the chemistry de
partment. The museum has a fine collection of fossils, agates,
and petrifactions gathered in the province, and is presided over
by a most enthusiastic Frenchman, one of the professors.
There are a great many schools in the city, and a normal
college. At the latter is one of our countrywomen in charge
of the kintergarten department. The cathedral is large, and
the interior would be beautiful if the cheap, taAvdry altars were
eliminated. Only one has any claims to beauty : that belongs
11

102 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
to the Urquiza family, and is to the left of the high altar. It
is quite pretty Avith its many silver ornaments, and near it, in
the wall, the tyrant is buried. A marble tablet over him bears
an inscription which informs one that here lie the remains of
Gen. Jose Urquiza, avIio was assassinated at his palace of San
Jose at 7:30 in the evening, the 11th clay of April, 1870, aged
sixty-nine years, and that this tablet is erected to his memory
by his sorrowing widow and children. If his fate had only
found him out about fifteen years earlier there would have been
feAver Avidows and orphans in Entre Rios by several hundred,
for his path Avas strewn with the corpses of those he hated,
disliked, or could not bend to his will.
The city is large and spreads a long distance out over the
plain, but there is nothing of especial interest in it, and the
only industry, besides teaching, is an aguardiente factory. The
plaza is unusually large and was gay with flower-beds, besides
having many good-sized trees, Avhose shade was refreshing, and
underneath one was a tiny little beer garden, with just room
for tAvo tables. Besides the cathedral, university, and Urquiza
palace, the penitentiary, Jefe Politico's building, theater, and
the largest hotel in the place, all front on this plaza. We were
driven out to see the railroad station, which is white and
dazzling to the eyes, as it is quite new, and not a bit of green
near it, and the sunshine pouring down upon it.

XXI.
UP THE RIVER URUGUAY.
NUEVA PALMYRA.
WEALTH OF LITTLE WORTH TO AN EXILE — A TYPICAL " FORTY-
NINER " — A SUBURBAN HORSE RACE — THE GIRL WHO
PLAYED A WHOLE OPERA ON THE PIANO.
On one of our trips up the River Uruguay, our anchor
dropped just in front of the sleepy-looking little town of Nueva
Palmyra. Three wharves jut out into the river from the
stretch of sandy beach, and while they are all good to land at,
the shore end of each dumps one in the sand, for the beach
runs two or three streets back into the town, and these streets
are less well provided with sidewalks than any others in the
village. But once the hard ground is reached the Avalking is
very pleasant, and the first day Ave wandered all about the
streets. The ground slopes toward the river, and in a few
places it is quite steep, so by pausing when we reached a

164 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
summit, every here and there, pretty views of broad river, flat
islands, and rolling country met and pleased the eye. The
houses are the usual one-story brick affairs, covered Avith adobe,
and relieved from perfect ugliness by the occasional trees in the
front and blooming plants in the patios. Many of the trees
were orange, and loaded Avith fruit and blossoms. The deathly
stillness of the place Avas most disagreeable ; the ground was so
soft that horses and people passed like specters ; only the
barking of the dogs broke the pall-like silence. The main
plaza is heavily shaded by pine as well as eucah/ptus trees, the
sod beneath them plentifully bestrewn with the red and yellow
blossoms of Avild oxalis, and there Avere several seats near the
paths. Resting aAvhile on one of them, Ave were first inter
viewed by the dogs, and there Avere any number of them, for
the commonest sight in this part of the world is a bunch of
clogs. Every inhabitant must oaati several. Some are well-
bred, but the predominating canine is a small, intelligent,
yellow cur.
After the dogs had finished their inspection came the children,
Avonderfully pretty ones, too, and among them, a boy with an
ideal Italian face and a lithe little figure. He was about six
years old and hugged tight to his little breast a pair of big
chickens, which he shyly confided to us he Avanted to sell for
thirty-five cents the pair, and when we took them he was too
busy looking at us to count the money in his chubby little fist.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 165
I suppose he Avondered Avhat we Avanted them for, and certainly
they were an embarrassing acquisition until fortune favored us
by sending a man along who AAras willing to take' them to the
gringo's boat.
Facing the plaza were the usual police barracks, a drug-store,
post-office, dwelling-houses, and church. The latter Avas the
most forlorn building of the kind that I e\"er saAv ; small, its
bricks uncovered and chipped off, the tower just carried a few
feet above the roof and abandoned. Doves circled above it and
had their nest built in the places where the beams of the
builder's scaffolding had left holes. The door stood Avicle open,
and, entering, we finally made out in the obscurity a brick floor
full of traps for umvary feet, a few Avooden benches, three poor
altars and a preaching pulpit draped in crocheted lace. Glass
was lacking and the window spaces were covered with cloth,
the consequence being that the darkness could almost be felt.
Later we saw in the street a solitary priest, and for forlornness
and shabbiness of aspect he matched the church.
As is usual in Uruguay, there Avas excellent shooting all
about the town, quail, cloves, duck, and snipe abounding, and
as a gentleman of English descent, and a true sport, placed him
self, his dogs, and lands at our disposal, we lived on game until
Ave cried out " pas toujours de perdrix." His house Avas not
far from toAvn, so one Sunday afternoon we walked out there.
Our way led us through the quiet little town, which looked as

166 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
usual ; but when Ave emerged on to the plain beyond it, Ave saw
some thirty men mounted on the Aviry, small horses of the coun
try Avatching with much interest a scrub race, which finished
just as we joined a knot of men on foot, among whom Avere some
of our friends.
The winner Avas a pretty sorrel horse, and his OAvner, a lieu
tenant of police, Avas jubilant because he had made twenty
dollars. This was evidently considered big stakes, and a pilot,
who had come up Avith us, Avas much amused at having won
twenty cents from a man avIio Avas very noisy and anxious to
bet against the sorrel, but evidently cautious Avhen it came to a
practical backing of his opinion. Leaving them, we Avalked
over the green slopes, Avhich were cropped close by a large flock
of sheep that were wandering about.
Finally Ave turned into one of these bits of road, and at the
farther end found a big SAvinging gate set in the Avire fence.
From this the road led us through the barnyard and orchard to
the long house Avith thatched roof, where we Avere cordially avcI-
comed by our host^Avho always wears high boots, corduroys, a
velvet coat and chimney-pot hat, the quiet, pleasant Sefiora
Pepa, his Avife, Avhom he has never alloAved to learn English,
and their fourteen dogs. The house had a long, Ioav porch
along the front, the floor of which Avas even Avith the outside
ground, and, like those of the rooms, formed of badly-laid tiles.
Everything Avas plain, and oh, so lacking in comfort ! I gazed

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 167
in astonishment, for he has land in large tracts, the rent from
some of them bringing him in $3,200 a year, and that alone
would have ghren them comforts, but it Avas an illustration of
Iioav indifferent we become when isolated from our kind, and
how easy it is to lapse into barbarism of life, if not of mind.
His mind Avas bright and trained, he Avas well up in the doings
and sayings of the world of to-day, but his house was behind his
mind by several centuries.
There Avas one United States citizen in the place, Avho claimed
to haA'e been a good deal of a rolling-stone, and the hirsute
appearance of his head gave one the impression that he — con
trary to tradition- — had gathered a good deal of moss. He said
he Avas a " forty-niner," and left California to go to Chili and
help Enrique Meiggs build railroads; after that it was a short
journey for him across the Ancles to the Argentine, and here, as
there were no obstacles on the level pampas to call a halt, the
wind bleAV him clear across country to the river, and crossing
that he landed in Uruguay, where he had prospered and soon
intended returning to California to settle doAvn. He had pecul
iar ideas on the subject of medicine ; thought gunpoAvder the
great cure-all. I supposed he meant taken via a pistol barrel,
but he did not ; he meant swalloAved or rubbed in.
As we go through life we gradually learn a great deal. I
learned, by eating a bit of whale, that life was too short to
spend in eating peculiar things simply to say you had done so ;

168 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
and in Nueva Palmyra I learned not to ask a girl to play the
piano. I here asked a healthy girl of fourteen if she would not
tocar a little, and she was so kind as to hammer away one hour
and a half. She played an opera straight through with never a
stop, and Ave thus unavoidably made a rather long call, espe
cially as our dinner was spoiling on board.

XXII.
FRAY BENTOS.
LIEBIG'S EXTRACT A GREAT URUGUAYAN INDUSTRY — HOMES
OF THE WORKMEN — THE PROCESS OF MANUFACTURE.
The twin towns of Fray Bentos and Independencia, each built
on a point that juts sharply out into Uruguay River, are quite
pretty from a distance — the gray houses and green fields, the
curving beach between, and back of the latter a road, dotted
with houses its whole length. We went ashore at Independen
cia and found it like the usual river town — a good Avharf, a
number of short, unpaved streets, with here and there a stretch
of flag or brick sidewalk, a few stores, the windoAV of one or
more filled with silver ornaments for harness, whip-handles, and
mate- bombillas, many one-storied houses, more or less clean and
more or less ornamented, according to the wealth of the OAvner.
We quickly Avalked through it one cool autumn morning,
stopping a few moments to enjoy the view of rolling country
covered with green clover from the pretty plaza which lay just

170 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
at the top of a steep slope, and taking the road along the river
soon reached Fray Bentos.
Fray Bentos is quite a little town, and is entirely owned by
the Liebig Company. All their extract of beef is made there,
and the houses are occupied by their Avorkmen. We passed
seAreral of these houses on our way to the main entrance of the
works, and they looked cleanish and comfortable, Avith little
flower-gardens in front and a cistern of adobe gleaming white
among the flowers. Near the large gate Avas an office, and here
Ave were received by Mr. Webster, the cashier, as it was too
early for the superintendent, who arrives between 10 and 10:30.
Mr. Webster showed us the offices and then the long- large
board-room, In the center Avas a long table Avith big chairs
around it, that are used by the board when it meets. On two
of the Avails hung maps of four out of the five large estancias
owned by the company and devoted to raising cattle for their
factory. But large as they are, they cannot supply the demand,
and great numbers have to be bought all over the country, they
paying on an average from $10 to $12 a head for good beasts.
One side of the room Avas lined from floor to ceiling with book
shelves, and on them Avas a library for the benefit of the em
ploye's. At the farther end stood a large sideboard Avith speci
mens of the products of the factory, just as it Avas Avhen placed
in the last Avorld's exhibition in Paris. There Avere two rows
of different-sized jars filled with the extract that every one

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 171
knoAvs so well, a jar of talloAV and another of dried beef in
powder, and yet a third of bone dust, also tins of corned beef and
of beef tongues. There Avas a large, fine room adjoining this,
Avhich is used by Mr. Crocker, an Englishman, the superinten
dent of the Avorks. He has a nice house surrounded by pretty
grounds, but he evidently deserves the place Avith all its
emoluments, for everything seemed in excellent order, and as
clean as possible wherever we Avent.
Leaving this building, Ave entered the main yard, and first
passed the meat-shop, Avhere several animals are cut up and
dealt out each clay gratis to the Avorkmen. Just beyond Avas a
long, low shecl, Avith a sloping floor, paved Avith flagstones.
Blood stood between all the stones, and there Avere some men
busy trying to Avash it out Avith hose and Avater. We were just
too late to see the killing, the}- having stopped two or three
clays before, for Avhich I Avas truly thankful. We entered the
shed, and at one end, mounting a few wooden steps, stood
AAdiere the killing takes place. It Avas small, just about room
enough for four men to stand, and in front of us Avas a small cir
cular stockade, and into this about a dozen cattle are driven at
a time. The loop end of a rawhide lasso is dropped over the
horns of one of the animals by a man on the platform. The
other end is attached to the shaft of a small stationary engine,
Avhich revolves quickly and draws the struggling animal into
the short passage and up to the feet of the butcher Avho, stoop-

172 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
ing over, Avith one Hoav of a short, heavy, dagger-shaped knife,
severs the spinal cord just back of the head. The beast drops
on to the floor of the passage, Avhich is a flat car and runs on a
track out into the open shed. Here the animal is rolled on to
the stones, a man seizes it, disembowels, skins, and cuts it into
quarters. These are the employe's Avho make the most money.
They are paid fifteen cents an animal, and make from $175 to
$200 a month. The heads, hoofs, and horns are taken to the bone-
dust factory, the quarters are hung on hooks on long racks near
by and cut up, the best parts sent to the beef-extract house,
the others to the corned-beef factory ; the tongues to still another
building, where each one is split and canned ; the hair from
the tails to still another building, where they are packed i*i
bales, and the hides to vats at the farther end of the shed,
where they are pickled and tanned.
The vats were full of hides in different stages, and after
looking at them we went into the building Avhere most of the
beef is boiled in immense covered vats. When it is cooked all
the broth is taken and carried to the extract-house, where it is
mixed Avith the selected portions of the animal, like the tender
loin, which have been minced to a pulp in hash machines. No
grease is present, as all the fat is cut off to make tallow. The
pulp and broth are boiled in open tanks with steam radiators at
the bottom. It is in each tank two hours and then passes to
another. After boiling all day it is clone, and is put up in 100-

ssav S0N3na '3avn<bs AaoioiA

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 173
pound tins and sent by ship to Antwerp, where it is packed into
the small jars that Ave are familiar Avith. They kill about six
months in the year, beginning in December, and average 1,000
animals a day, employ 300 men all the year and 700 in the kill
ing season. The workmen are mostly Italians and Basque
Spaniards. We visited the other buildings, the engine-room,
piles of coal, and Avharves, at Avhich lay several vessels loading;
but there was nothing unusual about them except their large
size and the smells. There are more and stronger smells to the
square inch in Fray Bentos than any place I ever visited.
Cologne is not a patch on it ; they were varied and all awful.
Even the pores of our skins seemed filled, and I walked the clock
in a strong Avind for several hours after bathing before I ceased
to abhor myself. I should hardly care to Avork there even if
wages are paid promptly. A house only costs from four dol
lars to five dollars a month, and even a stranger can buy a
whole tenderloin for ten cents. The company was started Avith
much difficulty — because no one would believe in it and buy
stock — in 1865, has ever since been prosperous, and pays good
dividends, besides all the lives the extract has saved.
There are a good many colonies near the river and some are
flourishing, notably the German one at Nueva-Berlin and a
French one some three leagues from Colonia, but the govern
ments are not pleased because so few immigrants become citi
zens. All their children born in the country are claimed, but

174 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
I met quite a number Avho told me they were Orientals or
Argentines, because they were born in the country, but when
they Avent back to Europe they Avould also be citizens of their
father country.

XXIII.
AFLOAT OX THE PARANA.
A RIVER OF WONDERFUL WIDTH AND NUMBERLESS ISLANDS.
 A GREAT COUNTRY FOR SHEEP  LUXURIOUS LAMB-
ROASTS — IMMENSE HERDS OF CATTLE AND HOAV THEY
ARE LASSOED  IMPORTED AMERICAN STOCK.
Down the Uruguay we glided until Ave came to the mouth
of the Parana River, known as the Guazu, and entering it
were upon the surface of a mighty waterway, whose bosom
is so broad that you must make your way some eleven hundred
miles against the current, before both banks are visible at
the same time. Opposite the city of Rosario it is forty-five
miles wide, and that is about 150 miles from the mouth. The
residents we found always spoke of going to the coast instead
of to the river bank, which would not have seemed so odd
if the vast expanse of water spread out unbroken before them,
but it does not. The channel is so full of islands that the
effect is that of a network of narrow water-courses instead

176 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
of one grand SAveeping mass. The water is of a taAvny shade
because of particles of sand and earth that are carried along
by it and form the islands. A stick that lodges will start
an island and a Avreck off a port will form a bar so quickly
that the port is soon closed unless it is prevented by removing
the obstruction. At the same time the current is so SAvift
that it cuts aAvay old islands Avith the greatest rapidity once
chance begins the Avork. Pilots are a necessity, and only
those Avho are ahvays upon the river will take a vessel of
much draught above Rosario.
The islands naturally are all Ioav, and they are densely
covered Avith a growth of grass and low trees. They are the
home of the nutria, Avhose skin is so prized by the makers of
felt hats, and Avhich are hunted by men in boats, armed with
guns or spears, and assisted by clogs. The boats are roAved
to a likely island and the dogs sent in along the shore. On
finding an animal they engage it in combat, being seconded
by their masters, Avho arrive as soon as possible, for the nutrias
fight stubbornly, and the dogs often get badly bitten.
Numerous snakes are in the underbush, and a small bird of
greenish-yellowish plumage often alighted on the vessel.
I Avas told that tigers — i. <?., leopards — Avere also to be found
on the islands, and I do not doubt it, but none ever ventured
forth to the edge as Ave Avere passing. There are numbers
of capinchos, an animal that looked to me like a cross between

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 177
a pig and a beaver. They live on land, and spend much
time in the water. By some their flesh Avas said to be deli
cious to eat, that it tasted like pork, while other authorities
as solemnly assured me it was horrid stuff, not even fit for
the natives. The reader may take his choice. I never tried
it. I used to enjoy Avatching the camelotes, or floating islands
of Aveeds, sometimes of great extent, moving along with the
current, making their way down toAvard the ocean, the vege
tation groAving and weeds blossoming quite undisturbed by
the journey.
The river drains such an amount of territory that it is often
high and often Ioav, and vessels ashore are a very common
sight. Let a sailing ship anchor to wait for a fair Avind, and
she may or may not be afloat when the wind comes ; and once
aground, a bank will form around her so rapidly that her bones
may lie there until they become exposed and bleach.
Just below the mouth stretch the flats of Martin Garcia,
where AArrecks and vessels ashore were always to be seen, and
the last time I passed OArer there were twenty-five vessels
beached, some of them large steamers, making quite a fleet
in distress. The channel is buoyed, but the channel shifts,
the buoys shift, and there you are.
Before we came to any town our anchor generally dropped
just in front of the estancia " El Ombu," Avhere we were sure
of a warm welcome from, and some charming days with, Mr.
12

178 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
and Mrs. Kenyon, English people. The bank Avas bluff, and
from the top edge the ground extends back in an unbroken
plain to the horizon. Sheep are raised, and there Avere
ahvays large flocks of them feeding on the green grass and
clover, each herd guarded by a man on horseback, Avhile
all about were numbers of horned plover, hawks, turkey-
buzzards, and little gray owls that lived in burrows in the
ground. There Avas an old house near the coast, which Avas
kept in excellent repair, and had nice orange trees in front,
but the mosquitoes Avere so bad that they Avere forced to
build again, and moved about a mile and a half inland,
quite near to the railroad station of El Paraiso, AA'hich is
on the main line between Buenos Ayres and Rosario. Sev
eral large ombu, a roAV of eucalyptus, and an orchard of
peach trees marked the house, Avhich Avas, as usual, of one
story, and covered a good deal of ground, besides the nu
merous out-buildings, which Avere all detached. Here Ave Avere
treated to all the national dishes, were taken driving 0A*er
the plain, Avent for cluck and bird shooting, and had asados,
when a lamb Avould be skinned, cleaned, and then roasted
Avhole on a long iron rod — asador — one end of which Avas driven
into the earth before an open fire. It Avas delicious food,
and made gluttons of us all.
There were between 43,000 and 45,000 sheep that grazed
over three square leagues of land, valued at $240,000 a

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 179
square league. Clover Avas plenty, but the land was divided
into sections by Avire fences, and each field given a rest.
Their thirst is slaked by Avater pumped into troughs in
the different fields by the herdsmen, gauchos, peons, or what
ever you choose to call them. The adjoining estancia Avas
owned by a Seflor Martinez de Hoz, of Buenos Ayres, and
here, as at many other estancias in the country, Ave Avere
sure of a cordial greeting. Once I remarked that I had
ncArer seen an animal lassoed, and as a consequence Ave
were invited, about a baker's dozen of us, to breakfast,
and quite early in the morning Avere taken to see a herd
rounded up and some cattle selected out of it by a pur
chaser from Buenos Ayres. When Ave reached the spot we
found a large bunch of cattle surrounded by coAA'-boys, avIio
Avere riding swiftly in an outer circle. Senor Martinez de
Hoz and the buyer were near, and Avhen an animal Avas
selected by the buyer he would point it out, one or tAvo
cow-boys Avould dash in and bring the desired creature out
of the confused mass, and, once it AA^as out, the point Avas
to keep it from returning, so a man Avould ride around it
in circles until it Avas a good distance awaj7 and joined
to those already selected. When this Avas finished Seflor de
Hoz told two of the men to take their lassos and catch
me an animal. I had seen pictures of mad steers chased
by picturesquely dressed gauchos, careering like mad 0Arer

180 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
a plain ; had read of the wonderful feats of catching an
animal here or there on any projecting angle, until it
seemed to me as if it must be a spectacle to make the
heart beat high and the breath come short, and now I Avas
to see this wonderful thing. Here was everything as I
had pictured it in my mind ; but alas for my anticipations !
instead of a mad, galloping chase over the prairie, what I
actually saw Avas two men ride up to the herd and stop
at the edge of the dense mass. For a moment they were
motionless, then one leaned over in his stirrups and dropped
the loop of his lasso over the horns of a bullock and toAved
him out. The beast fussed, kicked, and resisted, but out
he came. Then I Avas asked where else he should be caught,
and as he had his head Avell down and in the Avay, I
said a front foot. Well, they Avorked a long while and
finally got it there, but I think he Avalked into one of the
numerous loops on the ground, as several other coAV-boys
had joined in the affair. I suppose it Avas very dangerous,
for the cattle are Avild, and I was not alloAved to go far
from the carriage, Avhile the gentlemen kept close by their
horses, as we all must be ready to mount and fly if the
herd made a rush our Avay. But no picture of lassoing will
ever please me again ; the rush and dash and excitement all
vanished before the tame reality. A cow was killed, because
it had a tumor on its jaw, and Ave saAv it skinned, the men

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 181
using the knives that they wear in their belts, the same
that they use for eating and for killing their enemies.
We had a delightful breakfast, and then went through the
stables to see the stock, which has been imported to improve
the herds. Among the horses was a big black stallion, son of
the American horse Foxhall. There Avere merino sheep from
Vermont, some English horses, and a bull. In front of the
house was a large aviary, filled with native Avild birds caught
in the fields, and, just beyond, a charming garden, Avhere Ave
picked Parma violets, pansies, phlox, hyacinths, carnations, and
mignonette, and where the gardeners wage eternal warfare
against swarms of ants. There are about two square leagues
in this estancia, and, as elsewhere, the herds are watched by
gauchos, who live in little mud huts placed at convenient dis
tances about the fields and called puestos. A great deal of
maize is raised about here, chiefly for use on the estancias.

XXIV.
UP THE GREAT RIVER TO THE MODERN CITY OF
ROSARIO.
ELECTRIC LIGHTS AND PUBLIC SCHOOLS — THE IRISH AS WOOL-
GROWERS — NEAV DOCKS AT ROSARIO — SOCIETY FOR THE PRE
VENTION OF CRUELTY TO ANIMALS.
The little town of San Pedro, on the right bank of the Pa
rana, was the next point of interest as we went on our Avinding
AA7ay up stream. Standing on the top of the low bluff, its
Avhite houses and church gleaming in the sunshine, it always
looked bright and neat, but bare, almost indecently so to one
accustomed to trees and foliage, that. soften while beautifying
the angular lines of the architect and mason. Instead of being
dedicated to St. Paul, which avouIcI seem a natural sequence,
the next river hamlet boasts the good St. Nicholas as its sponsor
and patron, and has thriven until it is the third city in the
province of Buenos Ayres. There are a good many buildings
scattered here and there along the edge of the bluff between the

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 183
towns, and from most of them a chute runs down to the Avater,
b}r which sign Ave knoAV that they are store-houses for the
reception of hides and avooI, mostly the latter. Sometimes they
are full to overflowing, for wool-raising is one of the chief
'occupations in the Argentine Republic, and ocean steamers can
lie alongside these bluffs and load, taking the raw material
thence direct to the looms of Europe. I Avas told that the Irish
were the fathers of the sheep industry, and that many had
made large fortunes in it. There certainly are numbers of that
nation resident in the country, and some of the Irish Portenas
Avhom Ave met were charming girls, with a delightful Irish
brogue, although born and brought up in the Argentine, all of
which has nothing to do Avith our sheep, so revenons a nos
moutons, Avhich in this case is the toAvn of San Nicolas.
An island has formed in front of the toAvn, so the anchorage
is some distance below, and it Avas quite a pull against a strong
current up to the wharf, Avhich we reached only to find that it
Avas built to fit the river during a freshet, and there Avere no
steps to make it fit low Avater, and so Ave passed it by and got
ashore by climbing over the side and across the deck of a small
trading sloop. ' There were a feAV buildings at the base of the
bluff, and here Ave found the captain of the port, a charming
gentleman, who took us into his inner sanctum and gave us a
great many compliments and much information. Mate was
served to us, and as it is always boiling hot I tried to SAvallow

184 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
quickly, for one needs a tongue in condition to wag when
ashore abroad, but it Avas no use ; it seemed as if a blister rose
all the Avay doAvn the tongue and throat in the Avake of the fiery
liquid, and the only vent to be found for my feelings Avas to
disregard all signals to depart until each member of the party
had sAvalloAved their close. There are about 15,000 inhabitants,
all either Avell to do or rich, as they import very little and
export a great quantity of wool, maize, and hides. There is a
railroad station just behind the city Avhere they can take the
cars to Buenos Ayres to the soutliAvard, or Rosario to the north,
and besides tapping the main line there is a short branch Avhich
goes to an inland town and brings much produce to the river.
A steep paved AAray guided us up to the main city, and here
we found the streets of good width, laid out at right angles, Avell
paved and lighted by electric lights ; street-cars were running
on the principal thoroughfares, the people looked healthy and
happy, numbers of children were coming out of the public
school buildings, and altogether everything except the Ioav
adobe houses looked American and nineteenth-century. The
plaza Avas well shaded by trees and pretty, if one could forget
the stucco monumental shaft in the center, Avhich was painted
blue and white, Avith an electric light on top. The church Avas
closed, but the neat little inn alongside was not, and the beer —
made in the country — deliciously cold. The market Avas
empty except some meat, and we stopped at a corner to see the

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 185
stage start for Mananzalita, thirteen leagues inland ; the vehicle
was a small antiquated affair painted yelloAV and drawn by six
white horses, harnessed four abreast and two leaders. They
were untamed creatures and gave any amount of trouble before
they finally consented to all start at the same time, the driver
meanAvhile flourishing his Avhip and giving us a chance to
acquire some very choice expressions in hybrid Spanish.
Rosario is the second city in the republic, and is not only a
city of the present, but also of the future. It is well situated at
a point which can be reached by large ocean vessels, while above
the city the river is so uncertain as to its depth, even in the
main channel, that large vessels dare not venture ; hence about
all produce brought down for abroad is landed and reshipped.
It is also quite a railroad center, will become still more so in
time, and is a great point for shipping goods into the interior by
wagon. Large docks are being built, sloAvly, to be sure, but
surely, and the Avood — nandubay — used is so hard that it takes
a long Avhile to shape it. It is red and rings almost like metal
Avhen struck. It is brought down from the forests of the Grand
Chaco. From the river the city is lovely Avith its wharves, large
yellow custom-house, and lines of streets that gradually ascend
the bluff, while above an irregular sky-line of houses and trees,
broken by the two towers of the cathedral, is all fascinating,
and from its extent we hoped for much pleasure, only to be

186 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
proportionately disappointed, as it proved to be dull and unin
teresting in the extreme. The shops are long lines of store
houses, mere depots, filled with large boxes and some samples,
the streets almost deserted, stretching long distances of uniform
houses. The pavements Avere bad, and the poor horses that
dragged the heavy loads up the bluffs and along the rough
streets cannot live very long, they are so beaten and maltreated.
Across a broad street, from the head of the Avharf, stands the
big two-storied custom-house, and beside it is a peculiarly steep
street leading to the upper city.
It Avas ahvays very painful for me to Avalk up or down that
street, for it was filled from early daAvn until late at night with
a struggling, slipping crowd of over-burdened horses and oxen.
The desperate struggle to plant their ill shod feet firmly, the
jump under the sting of the lash, whose Avhistle filled the air at
all times, the bend of the slender legs strained almost to break
ing, all make a horrible sight ; and steep as the street Avas Ave
ahvays made a rush to get up it and aAvay. The Society for the
Prevention of Cruelty to Animals was introduced into the coun
try by the late ex-President Domingo F. Sarmiento, and it is
taking root even in Rosario, but progresses sIoayIj- and seems
to haAre begun with chickens — to prevent their being carried
about by the legs — instead of horses.
Horses are fastened to the cart in a peculiar manner — first,
the horse has a leather saddle put on him, which is very simple

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 187
in make. They take a framework made of a straight piece of
wood Avith two short pieces nailed at right angles on each end ;
to the underside are fastened two long, round cushions, filled
with hair ; these rest on the horse's back, one each side of the
back-bone, and over the framework is nailed a piece of leather,
while under and over are laid as many saddle-cloths as the
owner chooses, the whole held in place by a very broad girth.
A rawhide thong passes through a hole in the end of the
pole of the cart, and this throng is tied to a ring in one side
of the saddle. A primitive bridle and reins are added, and
the cart is ready to start unless more than one horse is needed.
If so, one end of a long rope is fastened to the saddle of another
horse, and the other end to some part of the cart, generally the
front edge. Sometimes there Avill be two or even three of these
loose horses attached. The horse connected Avith the pole
does the steering, and he is free to go in any direction, acting as he
does on a pivot — the end of the pole. The driver rides this horse.
The plaza is a large, bare square, Avith a feAV trees and benches
around the sides, tAvo broken fountains, and in the center a
monument, which consists of a tall, fluted column, with a
statue of Liberty on top, holding the Argentine flag, Avhile at
each of the four corners of the pedestal is a life-sized statue of
an Argentine patriot, with an inscription beneath. These in
scriptions cannot be very encouraging to patriotic youths, as
they state that Gen. San Martin died far from his country.

188 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
Gen. Belgrano died in misery, Rivadavia died expatriated, and
Moreno died in mid-ocean — on a ship, I suppose. The cathe
dral was being built around a smaller one, so, while the outside
was finished, we never penetrated into the interior, because of
the piles of bricks, mortar, and dust that met us at the door.
Of all the crowds of Italian emigrants flocking to the Argen
tine shores, the province of Santa Fe, of which Rosario de
Santa Fe, usually called Rosario, is the capital, seems to have
attracted the Piedmontese, and these hardy, industrious people
are going in for agriculture and fruit gardens, sending their
children to the public schools, improving the province in every
way, and benefiting the city by giving it a flourishing back
country. The government is kind to settlers, and these Italians,
who are used to the hard, bitter lot of the European peasant,
get on very well. They are strong, quick-tempered, as ready
with the knife and firearm as the natives are, and do not growl
when arrested and detained in jail months or years on sus
picion, for the right of habeas corpus is a dead letter, and tales
of flogging and ill-treatment in the jails that I knew of, I Avould
rather not dAvell upon. But what can one expect Avhen police
and the file of the army are recruited from convicts. A police
man in the Argentine never seemed to me to embody peace, law,
and order, having broken all three. The Argentines have a
splendid country, and they are making rapid strides, but like
every one else, they are far from perfection.

XXV.
A TRIP TO CORDOBA.
A LAND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY — THE WAKING CITY OF THE
PAMPAS — RELICS OF THE CONQUISTADORES — THE CATHE
DRAL AND THE JESUITS' CHURCH — THE NUNS OF ST.
DOMINIC  STREET LIFE  MODERN IMPROVEMENTS.
On the western edge of the vast Argentine pampas, deep set
in the dry broAvn bowl where once glistened and rippled the
waters of a lake, lies the quaint old city of Cordoba. Many
years it has lain there, " the world forgetting, by the world
forgot," its days of ancient glory having come and reached their
zenith before the Pilgrim Fathers landed on our shores. Some of
the old conquistadores, headed by Geronimo de Cabrera, march
ing with the sword in one hand and the cross in the other, as
was their custom, came over the mountains from Peru and
down through Bolivia, reaching in 1573 this bowl-like site.
Seeing the pretty river rushing through it and the Ioav range of
foot-hills standing protectingly near, they pitched their tents,

190 yl.LO.ZVG; SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
and soon the solid city rose, churches keeping pace with the
houses, the Jesuits even building a university and setting up a
printing-press, from which came ponderous old tomes in Latin,
Spanish, Quichua, and Guarani, the last two native Indian
languages, the books being used by the missionaries to spread
the gospel and teach the natives Spanish, and also containing
histories of the tribes and country. Would the)- Avere there
noAv ! but the remorseless enemies of the Jesuits, Avho caused
them to be expelled from all the Spanish colonies, shoAved Avhat
ignorance and vandalism their cloaks and coavIs covered when
they burnt and destroyed the unique and invaluable library
that had cost their predecessors so much blood and labor to
accumulate and arrange.
Noav the iron ribbon connects Cordoba Avith Rosario, and
thus with the outer world, and she is rubbing her eyes and
beginning to wake from her long nap ; but there is still a
delicious old sixteenth-century flavor about her. Her streets
are narrow, and only the brilliant sunlight keeps them from
being gloomy ; churches, convents, and religious property,
marked with some holy sign above the doors, abound. The
Cathedral is magnificent ; standing at one corner of the lovely
old tree-shaded plaza, it is approached by broad steps and an outer
court ; the tAvo tall toAvers, Avith their clusters of bells, are of
adobe, Avorked and moulded into graceful shape Avith many
ornaments ; part of the roof of the main aisle shows between

GROUP OF AMERICANS, CORDOBA, ARGENTINE,

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 191
them, Avhile, behind all, the grand dome, looking like an imperial
croAvn, rises to complete a lovely picture. The Avails are
smooth, but one can see in the outer ones Avhere heavy uncut
stones are set in, in courses, to give greater strength. The outer
court is paved, and so is the portico, Avith old stones that sIioav
the tread of many feet ; but, once the quaint old Avooden doors are
passed, you meet the present age in a fine neAv-tiled floor ; it is
beautiful :and serviceable, but looks too neAv — as out of keeping
as the neAv coarse frescoes that by their brilliant colors call your
eyes aAvay from the graceful curve of the arched roof of the aisles.
A short Avalk through the narrow streets, and Ave entered
the court before the oldest church of all, that of the Jesuits.
Its Avails are dark and stained by Avind and Aveather, but the
adobe fairly shines in spots, it has Avorn so smooth. Two
sad, drooping trees — Quebracho blancho — grow in the court,
and a soft twilight pervades the interior, as if the church
were in, mourning for those Avho founded and built only to
be ruthlessly driven out. The ceiling is superb; it is made
of cedar that Avas brought from the distant mountains, on the
backs of Indian converts, some tAvo hundred and seventy
years ago, then fashioned by their dexterous fingers and
fitted in place Avithout nail or screAV. The church is in
the shape of a Latin cross, the ceiling a Gothic arch, lined
first Avith smooth, flat boards of the cedar, the surface then
divided into spaces, richly ornamented by arabesques in gold

192 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
and color ; every few feet a broad, heavy moulding comes
down from the apex, and following the curve ends at the
base of the arch, Avhere the Avail begins; these divide the
lines of arabesques and are ornamented sparingly with gold
and color. The dome is large and panelled Avith cedar,
the four loAver corners being ornamented with good old
paintings of the four Evangelists. BeloAv the roof, run
ning clear around the church, is a frieze of alternate por
traits and coats-of-arms, but these had been painted on
canvas and were in a terrible state of disrepair ; those that
one could make out seemed stern old Spaniards, clad in
steel armor, but no one could tell me who they were.
The old confessionals are fitted into niches in the ponder
ous Avails, and the Jesuits, who have crept back one by
one, although exiled by an unrepealed laAv issued the last
time by Juan Manuel Rosas, President and Dictator of
Buenos Ayres, are brushing up their old quarters, gilding
heavily the crown-like sounding-board that hangs above
the preacher's desk, and trying to spoil the general effect
by filling the floor space with wooden benches. The gold
used on the ceiling was brought from Peru, and that same
favored country furnished the paints that were used with
such charming effect. A small side-door leads into a nar
row street, and if one looks back after leaving it, one sees
over the portal in quaint old letters—

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 193
Casa de Dios,
Puerto del Cielo.
Which is in English — The House of God,
The Gate of Heaven.
There is another door, which now is ahvays barred and
bolted, but once it led into their sunny old cloisters and
garden, Avhere the sun still shines, the fountain plashes and
gurgles, the orange trees groAV and are loaded Avith their
golden fruit, Avhile below them bloom and fade many lovely
roses ; thence a stairway leads to the old library, where
some of their books stand on the shelves, having been rescued
and returned. Beneath it is the old hall, at one end of
which still hangs a Holy Family ; and facing this, a full-
length oil portrait of Bishop Trejo in canonicals. He Avas
a native of Paraguay, and in 1613 founded the university,
giving all his fortune of $40,000 for the purpose. The
cloisters, gardens, and vaulted recitation-rooms still echo to
the voices of youths being fitted for the battle of life ;
but instead of loAv-voiced monks in flowing robes, they are
guided and taught by German professors, imported by the
general Government, and paid by the same power, so that
instruction is received at merely a nominal cost. A very
pleasant set of learned gentlemen are the professors, and
13

194 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
they have had built a large, fine building, which adjoins
the old one and has a beautiful front on Calle Ancha,
the one broad street in the old city. One of the large
new rooms has a fine collection of birds, among which are
the only pair of bright-green eagles that I ever saAv, and
wonderful humming-birds, one of them having a semicircle
of feathers, somewhat like those in a peacock's tail, stand
ing out from each side of his little body. There were all
the game birds of the country, some of them resembling
ours as California fruit resembles that of the Eastern States
— larger, of the same outward appearance, and much less
flavor. The professor of botany has also a most Avonder-
ful collection of the flora of the country, which he has
wandered many hundred weary miles to collect.
Near at hand is the church of Santa Catalina, with a famous
nunnery attached, and, making an excuse of the fact that Ave
Avanted to get some bamboo and horsehair bombillas, that the
nuns make, Ave looked for some time for an entrance to the
convent, and not finding it we went into the church, which is
very large, like all the churches in the city, lofty, and decorated
in good taste. It is profusely illustrated, if I may use the ex
pression, with scenes from the life of the patron saint, and she
seems to have had a most uncomfortable time. There was a
gallery over the door with gratings and cloth screen ; this is
what the nuns occupy when they sing the services, but there

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 195
was no entrance to it from the church, and we could not find
any one in the body of the church, behind the high altar, nor
in the small room to the right. There Avas a revolving cupboard
in the Avail there, but repeated knockings brought no one. At
last in an alcove, in a small room on the left of the high altar,
his cloak wrapped around him, sound asleep, we found a priest ;
Ave Avaked him, and told him in our choicest Castilian what
we AA-anted, and he not only told us the way to the inner court,
behind some houses, but folloAvecl, and helped us to interview
the sister Avho answered my knock on the turn-table. I never
saw an article of Avood so tightly fitted and yet which turned
with such ease as this cupboard-like affair. I could hear a pleas
ant voice and musical laugh, but not a glimpse could I catch of
the nun, who promised that if Ave would return in the afternoon
she would see what she could clo. When Ave returned, I told
her I was the foreigner who wanted the bombillas, and she put
a bunch of keys in the cupboard for me to give the portress,
while she Avent to speak to the Lady Superior. A quiet-looking
Avoman, shrouded in a manta, Avhom I had noticed sitting in
the court, came forward, and taking the keys, led us to a small
door in the corner next the church, and, unlocking it, let us
into a long, narrow room, perfectly dark, except for the light
that came through the door. At one end hung an old picture
of the Madonna and Child, dressed in stiff gold brocade, and
opposite a portrait of St. Dominic, clad in the same stiff drape-

196 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
ries that were such favorites with some of the earliest of the old
masters ; otherwise they were lovely. Along the wall between
them was a row of chairs, and Avhen we sat down we faced
an iron grating that occupied the entire length of the room,
and was fastened into the floor and the ceiling. It was made
of flat bands, riveted quite close together, and about five feet
inside of this was a similar one, inside of that a thick cloth veil.
Soon we heard the turning of a lock somewhere, and then two
female voices spoke. I had quite a long conversation with
them, and found they kneAV all about themselves and their order,
but nothing else. They are a branch of the order of St.
Dominic, and this house was founded by one of the conquista-
'dores in 1613 ; there are only rooms for forty nuns, and as soon
as one dies another stands ready to enter, yet they draw only
from the best families, and are strictly cloistered, living, dying,
and being buried within the Avails. They said they were happy,
but their voices had a hollow sound, as if they came from the
tomb, and I involuntarily pressed close against the outer railing
as if to get nearer the unfortunates, for whom my heart was
filled with pity when I thought of all they had renounced, and
what their li\Tes must be.
La Marced is another large church, and has a monastery at
tached. The monks wear a Avhite habit, and looked very pictur
esque as we saAv them, through a half-open door, pacing to and
fro beneath the trees in the sunny garden. The church was

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 197
being repaired, and only one altar was in order; before that
about a dozen young brothers were chanting a service, keeping
their eyes on us instead of their books ; but they kneAv it all so
Avell that they made no mistake. There was a horrible looking
statue of a saint over one altar ; he had been split open and
cleaned out, but to judge by facial expression, was still alive.
San Francisco Church was entirely closed for repairs, and the
only other big church we entered was Saint Dominic's, which
has a repoussS silver front to the high altar and a fine old pul
pit ; it also has a Gothic Avooden altar, prettily carved, under
neath Avhich is a passage into the monastery. The orphanage
opposite the Jesuit church is in charge of some sisters, who
have a large number of little unfortunates under their care.
We visited two of the markets, but found very little of native
manufacture in them ; some rough pottery, coarse blankets,
gayly-colored saddlebags of wool, and some coffee-colored lace,
was about all. The lace Avas soft and pretty, with an im
mense amount of labor on it, and not very fine after all. In
the streets only the richest women wear bonnets or hats, the rest
use the black cashmere manta that is so common in Peru and
Chili. It is a piece of cloth about nine feet long, and four to
six in Avidth, wound around the head and shoulders, enveloping
the person as far down as the Avaist ; a perfectly plain skirt is
generally worn with it. Many of the men wear the old gaucho
dress except the boots, which were formerly made by peeling

198 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF- WAR.
the hides off an animal's legs, pulling them Avhile still warm and
soft over their own feet and legs, and leaving them to dry on
and shrink into shape. Now they wear rough leather boots or
low shoes, the latter made of canvas and rope, like those sold
for bathing with us. The legs are covered with white cotton-
cloth drawers that come down to the ankles, and are often em
broidered, fringed, or otherwise ornamented nearly up to the
knee ; the poor simply Avind a piece of cloth round their legs.
These drawers are called calconcillas. As they would not be
warm enough by themselves, a square of Avoolen cloth, varying
from the coarsest woven sheep's wool up to very fine vicuna,
according to the purse of the wearer, is taken ; one straight
side is fastened around the waist by a Avide leather belt orna
mented Avith big silver buttons ; the short ends that are left
hang down in front ; the center of the straight side opposite that
which is wrapped around the Avaist is brought up between the
legs in front and tucked firmly under the belt ; the two corners
are left hanging loose. This garment is called the chiripa, and
ahvays looks as if it were going to drop off, but it does not; the
square is large in order to give plenty of room when riding,
and as a consequence, the bunch which does duty for the seat
falls nearly to the wearer's ankles behind. A woolen shirt
covering the upper part of the body, and hanging over one
shoulder for convenience in carrying, or else regularly put on,
is the poncho that all classes use more or less. This is often

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 199
very fine and finished with a deep knotted fringe ; it is simply
a square of cloth, with a slit in the centre through which the
wearer puts his head. A handkerchief knotted around the
throat, some kind of a soft wool hat, and a sharp-pointed knife
thrust into the belt complete the costume. When mounted on
their small, wiry horses, the lasso, a coil of rawhide rope, at the
saddle, riding rapidly and flourishing the thong-like whip that
hangs from the wrist, their dress looks picturesque and suitable ;
but once they dismount and begin to Avalk, one sees it is but a
swaddling for the form, clumsy, ungainly, and, like most native
dresses, with no attention paid to shape, and the object of cover
ing for warmth but imperfectly attained.
There is a nice theater, of good size, near the plaza, where an
excellent company was giving Italian opera. There are two'
large plazas ; the original one being filled with fine old trees,,
underneath which one can sit on comfortable benches and listen
to a magnificent military band of some sixty well-trained musi
cians ; the other plaza is quite distant, but it is lovely, for it is
nearly all lake, only room for a shaded walk around the out
side, and in the center one s'ees a small island with a grotto on
it ; and on this island on feast-days and holidays they burn set
pieces of fireworks, their reflections in the water adding much
to the effect. There is a promising Museum of the Province,
that has just been started and put in charge of Padre Lavagna,
a priest with a noble face, who had charge of a parish in the

200 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
mountain region. His parish flourished ; but while there he
spent a good deal of time on botany, geology, and kindred sub
jects, reading Darwin's works and other like books, seeking
more light on his favorite pursuits. A visiting priest saw them ;
he was reported and removed from his parish, Avhich left him
to starve until the Government held out a helping hand, giving
him at the same time congenial Avork.
On the top of the bluff which makes the edge of the bowl
that the city lies in, are two interesting buildings, the Observa
tory and Meteorological Bureau, both government institutions
and both in charge of scientists from the United States. The
Observatory Avas built during the Presidency of Gen. Domingo
Sarmiento and has done some wonderfully good Avork, being
not only Avell managed but the situation being exceptionally
good for statistical Avork, in the Meteorological Bureau, Avhich
for so young an institution is progressing wonderfully. Its
record shows an average of 65 per cent, of perfecthy clear,
sunny weather during the year in Cordoba. There is one dis
agreeable side to so much sunshine, and that is the clouds of
dust, which fill the air at every puff of wind ; it lies inches
thick on everything that does not move, and when in the street
even one's face is soon coated Avith it.
The hotels are not clean and not warmed, but the food is
pretty good. Walking about the streets, one notices many
bamboo-huts, the sides plastered over with mud and having

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 2 01
thatched roofs, while towards the outskirts there are clusters
and long lines of them ; but now they are all doomed, and will
be destroyed at the end of three months ; a piece of land quite
outside of the city having been set apart where the poor In
dians can erect others. This is only one of the many schemes
on foot to beautify the place. A plaza near the river Avas im
proved; a colossal equestrian statue, in bronze, of Gen. La Paz
erected, and unveiled in the presence of the President, his Cab
inet, and the foreign diplomatic corps, Avho all came from
Buenos Ayres to assist. Just beyond the statue is a fine iron
bridge, called the Marcos Juarez Celman bridge, in honor of the
President ; this bridge rests at either end on the splendid neAv
embankment which Avill hedge the river in on either side Avhen
finished, and prevent the disastrous, fever-producing inunda
tions that formerly came every spring when the snows of the
Ancles began to melt- On the farther side of the bridge a level
space at the foot of the encircling bluff has been laid out as a
park, and promises well. An immense clam and reservoir is
building in the mountains for the purpose of irrigating the
entire plain about the city so as to surround it with green fields
and groves. There is a good race-course with a large grand
stand, the boxes of which Avere filled with dark-eyed sefloras and
sefioritas on the ninth of July, which is their Independence Day,
when we saw some very fair races and an interesting crowd of
countaymen, who had ridden in on their little horses and took

202 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
a great interest in all the events of the day. The racers Avere
mostly of English blood or imported stock crossed with native.
We happened upon a fair, and finding the girls in charge
prett}r, Avent in and invested. Nothing Avas for sale outright,
but you handed one of the senoritas any sum you chose, and she
gave you a greater or less number of tiny paper rolls, Avhich
were glued so tightly that it took some minutes to open each ;
generally you found all blank inside, but one of the gentlemen
found two numbers, after investing several dollars, and received
a spool of pink cotton thread and a little picture with a prayer
on the back. There Avere all sorts of bric-a-brac around the
room Avith a number fastened to each, but those numbers did
not appear to us nor to any of the other numerous gamblers in
the place. However, the girls were pretty and pleasant.
One of the residents, Avho Avas very kind to us, was an en
thusiastic botanist, and shoAA^ecl us many curious things that
Avere indigenous, among them the bark of a tree which could be
scaled off in pieces no thicker than paper, making excellent
cigarette Avrappers. One clay he proposed that Ave go to call on
a friend of his in the country, and of course we Avere delighted.
We rode through the city, and started to Avalk. It had not
rained for months, the dust was ankle-deep and rose about us
in a cloud. The road Avas very long, and I began to ask ques
tions about the dust-laden shrubs and received a great deal of
information in return. Some of them belonged to the cinchona

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 203
family, others bore a seed vessel with a covering resembling
tripe, and the bush is called monk's tripe.
Finally we arrived to find the usual low, white-washed
country house, with numerous outbuildings, but this one was
unusually blest in having numerous bright green fields about
it,. irrigated by the broad shallow river which flowed near by.
The owner was absent, gone to the city, a peon informed us,
and after expressing regret and disgust our guide proposed to
take us home another way. I had been growing more and
more amused as I watched the faces of our croAvd, and felt
ready for any lark, so agreed that we had better go home
another Avay, and he led us across the green fields down to the
river bank ; he and I were about to step in and Avade over when
there Avas a revolution behind us and Ave had to go back the
way Ave came.
Once in the hotel, I was treated to a piece of the mind of
each of the party, my interest in shrubs belittled, and
finally a demand Avas made to know if I had really intended
wading that river, and I said, " Why not ? " I had already
spoiled a blue cloth costume rather than hurt the feelings of
our new friend, and saw no reason to hesitate at ruining a pair
of shoes as well by wading, and as the water was not over half
a foot deep, they Avould none of them have drowned. I Avas
the only woman in the party, and the men did not like to show
the Avhite feather first, so I enjoyed their disgust and kneAv I

204 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
could easily get even Avhen necessary, as some spoke no Spanish
and the others could not rattle it off as I could, and they often
wanted help.
Cordoba is a most interesting place, and one could most
pleasantly pass a month here, our nine days being altogether
too short. It is not yet modernized, and it is only by straying
far from the regular routes in Europe that one can find such a
charming, antique city to wander in as this, which is only to be
reached by passing over miles and miles of dead level pampas ;
almost 250 of them, as the crow flies, lie between it, the city of
Rosario, and the great Parana River.
In the streets of Cordoba only the richest women wear
bonnets or hats ; the others use the soft, black cashmere manta
that is so common in Peru and Chili. In Lima, the capital of
Peru, it is the only recognized head-gear for church wear. If you
attempt to enter a sacred edifice Avith hat or bonnet on some
one Avill ask you to take it off ; bare heads or mantas are alone
permissible. This manta is a piece of cloth about nine feet
long and four to six in Avidth, wound around the head and
shoulders, enveloping the person ahvays as far as the waist and
sometimes to the knees. It is ahvays of black, its fineness
depending upon the purse of the wearer. One sometimes sees
women and young girls in a snuff-colored petticoat, leather
girdle pendant, and white manta. These are people Avho have
taken a vow to wear the dress for a certain length of time, as a

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 205
thank-offering for recovery from sickness of themselves or of
some relative or friend. It is not assumed as a penance for
terrible sins, as some assert, for I Avas repeatedly assured by
native Avomen in Peru that it Avas often put on as one would
light a candle and put it before an altar, for any trivial religious
reason. The Avomen of South America are often spoken lightly
of, and it seems to me quite Avithout reason. If their men Avere
like ours, if the Avomen had our education and chances the}'
would be as famous for their morality and beauty as is the girl
of the United States. There, as everywhere, it is the one lamb
who goes astray that is told of in song and story, not the ninety
and nine in the sheepfold. After four years spent in South
America, I am a warm defender of the women there. They are
pretty, sweet, gentle, and pure, and their intellects good.
What more can one ask ?

XXVI.
FROM ROSARIO TO SANTA ELENA AND CITIES
BY THE WAY.
PROFESSOR KEMMERICH'S BEEF-EXTRACT WORKS — AN ES
TABLISHMENT LARGER THAN LIEBIG'S  CAPTIVE INDIAN
GIRLS AND AVOMEN AS HOUSE SERVANTS.
Just above the city of Rosario, the right bank of the
Parana is a bluff and clotted Avith buildings, while the islands,
being old, are well wooded, which makes them prettier than
common, but this only lasts a Avhile and Ave are soon winding
and tAvisting among the shifting islands. The vessels we
see are much smaller than those we saAv beloAv, and our
craft had difficulty in obtaining a pilot, the one who had come
from Asuncion three months before, declining to go, as the
channel Avould be sure to have changed in that time. Dia-
mante Point is a fine Avooded headland, which we passed on
the second day, and here it is that the naval academy was
being placed, it having been decided to move the youths

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 207
from their old quarters on one of the fine avenues of Buenos
Ayres. While the location is healthy, and the view must
be superb, yet it will seem a desert to the boys at first, and
the tiny village nestling at the base of the river bluff of small
account. We now found the left bank bluff all the way,
and these bluffs are full of fossils, of all sorts and descriptions,
from mastodons to tiny shells, the whole province of Entre
Rios being a most famous place in which to search, all the
museums of the country being Avell supplied from there.
The city of Santa Fe, on the right bank, is large, but it is
set so far back from the river that in passing one sees only
the few buildings that form the port, Avhence a railroad runs
to the city.
The city of Parana is just aboA'e on the Entre Rios bank,
and here we tarried, anchoring close under a steep bluff,
which is gradually being dug away to obtain the shells, just
here mostly those of oysters, Avhich lie in thick layers like
veins, and are speedily converted into lime at the kilns near
by. An oyster is not to be obtained in the markets of Uruguay
or the Argentine, except a few that are brought doAvn from
Rio cle Janeiro, yet here are millions of shells that must once
have held the delicious morsels, and stopping by the bluff
we dug out a feAV shells to take on board, because they
reminded us of the pleasures to come AA'hen once more Ave
should be chez Uncle Sam. Landing at the wharf, Ave passed

208 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
several vessels loading Avith lime, and numerous ox-carts
drawing the same to them. The street was a poor roadway,
with a few houses here and there, and at the farther end
we found a street-car, drawn by three horses — a spiked team
— Avhich was soon filled with people ; then the driver cracked
his long whip, shouted lustily to the poor brutes, and they
dashed off, dragging the heavy car up the steep bluff, along
a gently sloping street, about a mile and a half in all, into
the city. The place is noAv, since the decadence of Concep-
cion del Uruguay, the capital of the province, the two cities
being connected by rail. Parana is thriving ; it has a good
port, which its rival has not, so all the produce from the
interior comes there to be shipped; then, like most places
in the country, there Avere all sorts of schemes on foot, — booms,
one might call them, — while every one was cheerful and
smiling, seeing a great fortune in the near future. To a
stranger there Avas not much of interest, the same narrow
streets that are found everywhere, high sidewalks, adobe
houses Avith flat roofs, and shops for the sale of necessaries.
A church Avith a crooked cross on top, unfinished Avithout and
bare within, faced the old plaza. The neAv plaza was farther
up and looked rather pretty with its flower beds, Avhile the
singing of the children in the graded schools called our at
tention to the large building whence they soon came swarm
ing to scatter in all the adjacent streets. One day we pulled

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 209
doAvn the river to Avhere some railroad tracks came down to
bring freight to ships, and Avandered into the country, which
Ave found covered with grass and Ioav bushes. The vieAvs
of rolling land and spreading river Avere quite pretty, and
tire cardinal birds whistled blithely as they flew from bush
to bush. We were brushing off mosquitoes and wandering
about rather aimlessly, when suddenly surrounded by a herd
of goats, in charge of a tiny cherub-faced boy Avho was singing
at the top of his voice something about the moon, until the
song Avas frozen in his little throat by the sight of strangers ;
yet he soon forgot his fears and told us about his herd, finally
running off after them with a smile and a cheery good-day
to us.
Villa Urquiza is a little town named for the old tyrant.
whose brother still lives there. It looked especially pretty as
we glided past, because of the fringe of willow trees along the
bank, underneath which were a number of people and carts,
which gave it a lively air. There is quite a number of colonies
on either bank, mostly formed by different nationalities and
called the Swiss colony of Anna Maria Point, German colony
of some other place, and they were all reported as flourishing,
but generally sat well back from the river and were not easily
accessible. The next stop, to go ashore, was at Santa Elena, where is the
large condensed beef-extract factory of Prof. Kemmerich, a

210 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
German, who was for many years head man under Mr. Giebert
at Liebig's factory in Uruguay. He married one of Mr. Gie-
bert's daughters, a charming woman, and we enjoyed several
clays here, mostly spent at the hospitable house of Prof. Kem
merich and his brother-in-law, Giebert, who is also in the busi
ness. There were two interesting Kemmerich girls, and each
had an Indian Avaiting-maid of about her own age. I say about,
as Mrs. Kemmerich told me she had no means of knowing the
age of the children when given to her, for they were captives.
The smallest one — about five years of age — was bought of her
captor for a bottle of cane (native rum), and he gave no details
to the friend who secured her. We often saw Indian girls fill
ing the place of servants in families of officials, and, while they
seemed always kindly treated — and those with her were cer
tainly most kindly and considerately and even tenderly treated
by Mrs. Kemmerich — still their position excited my curiosity.
I was told by an Englishman who had been long years in
the country, that the Indian tribes in the North were often
troublesome, and Avhen war was made on them the men were
killed or enlisted in the army, while the women and children
were brought to the river and started for Buenos Ayres ; that
wherever the steamer stopped that had Avomen captives oh board
the inhabitants could go to the authorities and get orders for
what number the}' AAdshecl, then could go on board, pick out
their Avomen and take them aAvay as their property — slaves, in

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 211
short. He also told me that, finally, the foreigners found it out
and were so distressed at the sights consequent on separating
families that they protested until the government sent orders to
take no more women and girls prisoners. I had the temerity to
ask several Argentine officials about it, and am free to say their
elaborate and explanatory denials Avere not altogether convinc
ing, chiefly because they left the presence of the girls I had seen
unaccounted for. The little one at the Kemmerichs' was
bought from an Indian who was supposed to have captured her
from some other tribe with Avhom his people Avere at Avar.
Prof. Kemmerich is professor, doctor, and land-OAvner, as Avell
as owner and head of a factory larger than Liebig's, where de
licious extract is made, and he also puts up a peptonized
extract and liquid concentrated bouillon, neither of Avhich is
prepared by Liebig. He is also German consul and a citizen of
that empire. About the house is quite a colony of houses for
the workmen as Avell as a schoolhouse where the children are
taught. One day Ave Avent for a long ride in the country, and
the roads near the settlement Avere a novelty to me. The thou
sands of animals driven to slaughter are about the same size, and
when the road was softened by rains they had trodden it into
furrows, each row stepping in the tracks of those preceding.
Then the road had dried, Avhich hardened it. Driving over
this is to be imagined. Miss Kemmerich and I braced against
one another and clung to the carriage with our hands, yet it Avas

212 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
delightful, too, for the country was slightly rolling and fairly
well Avooded. There were numerous flocks of parrots and par-
roquets flying about, as well as doves and quail. We visited
an estancia and Avatched and talked to the herders and their
women and children, as well as saw a little of their home life.
This was a farm house, and the contrast with any I ever saw in
my own land was striking ; the utter lack of cleanliness, comfort,
or even what we would consider necessities, and the satisfaction
of all hands with the existing state of affairs was appalling, yet
these people Avere kind and hospitable, offering eggs and mate',
which seemed their all.

XXVII.
LA PAZ TO CORRIENTES.
ITS QUAINT OLD STRUCTURES  THE CHURCHES, MARKETS,
AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS — CHAT WITH A BANK CASHIER
AND AN INTERVIEW WITH A NATIVE PRIEST— A TOWN
THREE HUNDRED YEARS OLD.
The city of La Paz is quiet and peaceful, even if it is not
the actual abode of the peace Avhich passeth all understanding,
and shortly after we had anchored the pilot went on shore to
his home and sent me off, not a dove, but a live cardinal bird,
tied up in a handkerchief. The next day we Avent ashore to
find it quite a city, situated on ground sloping up from the
river, spreading out over a good deal of space, as there are
many trees and some orchards. There does not seem to be
much trade, and although the streets have been cut into deep
ruts by the wheels of heavy wagons, many were grass grown,
ruts and all. After our custom, we talked with the people in
the streets and shops, a Avine merchant asking us back into his

214 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
house, where Ave found a pretty wife and a numerous brood of
black-eyed little children, one of whom was several times
offered to us, and they really seemed in earnest in so doing.
The shops were small, but, as usual, there was a silversmith
who hammered out pretty things for the adornment of man,
woman, and horse. They are building a fine, large munici-
palidad or town hall, and the plaza had long lines of rose bushes,
orange and eucalyptus trees. The country around Avas dotted
with Avhite houses, which looked pretty and cheerful.
From here Ave left the bluffs behind us, that is, we left the
bank and struck out into the maze of islands, sometimes brush
ing close to them, and little birds were often brought me that
had alighted on the deck or rigging. They were mostly like
our yellow birds, and were so wild that we let them go when
near the bank on either side.
The town of Esquinas was visible in the distance, over a low
island Avhich had formed in front and effectually blocked up the
port to any but the tiniest craft. Bella Vista looked much like
the other towns when Ave slowed doAvn off it to send the mail
ashore and get some marketing. The official visit of the
captain of the port Avas made in a boat evidently hired for the
occasion, as while he had two port sailors in uniform as
attendants the man who roAved had the whole carcass of a coav
to dispose of, for Avhich he asked twelve nationals, but came
down to ten and a-half, about $6.25.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 215
Next we came to the city of Corrientes, which is large and of
a good deal of importance, being the chief northern city of the
Argentine. Here it Avas that Francisco Solano Lopez made the
start with his Paraguayan troops to cross Argentine territory in
order to reach his enemies, the Brazilians, which act opened
hostilities in what Avas to be a five years' Avar, and gave the
Argentines a chance to join the Brazilians in the attempt to
partition Paraguay among them. During the war this city Avas
headquarters for the allied armies and fleets. By this time Ave
were far enough north to have the landscape quite tropical;
orange groves were to be seen from Bella Vista up, and their
glossy green foliage was lovely against the gray and Avhite
adobe walls of the houses and churches of Corrientes.
After the usual official fuss and feathers Ave went ashore, and
I was charmed with the quaint old houses. The streets are
narroAV and numerous. Walking out one day Ave came to the
market, finding, as it was late in the afternoon, only a few
Avomen guarding, among other things, piles of oranges, which
sold, to foolish strangers, for fifty cents a hundred. Quantities
of cigars made from native tobacco were there : some of the
women were rolling them then against the next day's sales.
The tobacco was light in color, but looked good. These women
also make a lace like that of Cordoba, the mesh square and
knotted, the pattern tied or woven in. There Avere plenty of
the familiar peanut, but raAV, and we passed them by to enjoy

216 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
the antics and chatter of two parrots, who were swinging in a
ring and having a most jolly time, to judge by the frequent
peals of laughter that- interlarded their gossip. We stopped at
a bank to buy some paper money and became quite intimate
with the cashier, while all the clerks came and stood around,
gazing with undisguised curiosity; it made one feel like a
monkey and a hand organ. However, Ave heard the family
history of the friendly official, and he offered to take us about
in his carriage at any time. He said the town Avas three hun
dred years old, and it doubtless- is. Many of the oldest houses
were long and unusually Ioav with tiny windoAvs and small,
heavily-barred doorways, a porch along the front, its roof sup
ported at the eaves by black palm-tree trunks, and the roof
covered Avith other varieties of palm trunks that had been slit
and scooped out in the center, like a Dutch tile. On the fronts
of some of them were bullet marks, souvenirs of revolutions.
There were frequent, heavy showers every day of our stay
and the streets a mass of mud, but the raised sideAvalks Avere
passable and the crossings fair. Stores were quite numerous,
and very good for the situation of the city. Country wagons
— prairie schooners — drawn by long lines of oxen were fre
quently seen, and, as to reach the leaders, a goad with a very
long handle was needed, it was often suspended by a rope just
under the roof of the wagon, and the driver by reaching up
could direct it to the flanks of the oxen without much trouble.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR 217
Some of the goads were ornamented with tufts of ostrich
feathers. The grand plaza was quite pretty Avith a monument
in the center and a fine municipal building at one corner, shin
ing in its coat of neAV stucco and paint. Another side of the
square is decorated Avith a mediaeval castle-like structure, Avhich
is the Cabildo, built in 1816.
Near this latter was the rough brick church of Our Lady of
Mercy, and Ave Avere much disappointed to find all the doors
locked. An arch in a side-wall led into a grass-grown quad
rangle Avith cloisters around it, and Ave were debating about
entering when across the green turf, cantering toAvard us, came
a black horse with rough, long coat. Astride him, his legs
sticking straight out, cassock rolled up, and tucked into the
rope girdle, Avas a priest. His shoArel-hat Avell on the back of
his head showed a face of pure Guarani type. When he saw us
he smiled pleasantly, reined in his charger, and halting, showed
us Avhere a rope and bell hung near by. We rang and then he
rang, but the porter Avas probably stoAved away in some cell
enjoying a siesta, and tying his horse to a post the priest slipped
out of the saddle and offered himself as guide after furnishing
my husband with a native cigar like the one he himself Avas
consuming. He told us there were 4,000 inhabitants and that
the people Avere very religious ; he was proud of being a native,
born twenty-five leagues away, and spoke some Guarani for us,
thinking it very odd that Ave did not speak it. It seems a

218 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
language of guttural exclamations, and in time we acquired a
little of it, but it must be quite a language, for it was the pre
dominant speech of Eastern and Southern South America, as
Quichua was of the northern and western parts.
The church was clean and had several altars in good order,
but nothing to interest us as much as our guide, who cross-
questioned us as to our religious beliefs as well as our country,
and finally left us with a blessing and a cheery good-day, trot
ting off to make a visit in the country.
The church of San Francisco — in another part of the town —
has a most imposing look, approached as it is by two colon
nades that sweep up to the front in fine curves, but the interior,
while large, Avas a disappointment, barring some old carved-
leather coverings to some antique chairs. The paths in the
Plaza San Martin Avere under water, but from the surrounding
sidewalk Ave saw a military figure, with tall shako on head and
SAVorcl in hand, on foot charging an imaginary foe. The gardens
were full of lovely floAvers, and it Avas only necessary to stop
and admire to have one's hands filled with the fragrant blossoms
of rose and jessamine bushes.

xxvni.
THE CITY OF ASUNCION— ELEVEN HUNDRED
MILES UP THE PARANA AND PARAGUAY.
Paraguay's long and bloody struggle for independ-
ence — her three great dictators — interveeav with
the son of francisco solano lopez.
When the town of Corrientes faded from our sight I gazed
up stream with increasing ardor and impatience, for we were
nearing the goal of my desire — the land of dictators and of
a war whose history reads like a grand, bloody romance in
five volumes, one for each year in which the little land-
bound republic of Paraguay held at bay its proud and
powerful neighbors, its people copiously watering the soil
of their native land with their blood in order to preserve
their autonomy and their rights. What matters it that they
fought under and at the command of a tyrant? What if
Francisco Solano Lopez was unnecessarily unjust? and all
the braver their fight if there were brightness neither at

220 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
home nor abroad. Think of that little nation fighting for
so long Brazil, Argentine, and Uruguay, yet at the end pre
serving most of its country ; and who ever heard of their
complaining? Nine-tenths of her people fell, men, women,
and children, in battle, of wounds, hunger or disease : the
country Avas unfilled; money, jeAvelry, all, even the most
desperate resources for raising money exhausted, yet they
took up the burden and began again unknown, unnoticed.
One hundred thousand people alone remained in 1870; but
their country is wonderfully rich in gifts of nature. The
mountains and plains are covered with valuable forests ;
many streams Avater it ; the climate is tropical, and cultiva
tion of the soil easy. So when the people increase once
more and develop their natural riches there seems no reason
Avhy they should not take a prominent place in the sisterhood
of republics.
Dr. Francia Carlos Antonio Lopez, and after him his son,
Francisco Solano Lopez, each in his turn from 1811 to 1870,
held Paraguay in their relentless grasp, dictators and tyrants
by all Ave can read and hear — the last seeming the worst
of all ; yet there is truth in Avhat his son Enrique said to
me in Buenos Ayres, when I asked him to tell me of a
book which should give a history of the Avar from the
Paraguayan side. " There is none," said he. " Our side
has never been Avritten." This same Enrique is a quiet,

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 221
self-possessed man, having a lovely home, devoted to his wife
and children — the former, an American by birth, and beau
tiful. He has a fine library, and kindly loaned me books
upon his native land in all the languages I knew. There
was here a fine picture of his father, in uniform, mounted
on a white horse ; not a fine figure — too stout, and the face
Guarani; that is a round Indian face, prominent features,
but the face round. The photograph of his mother, Madame
Lynch, was beautiful. She Avould have passed for a tAvin
sister of the Empress Eugenie. He himself looked like a
Spaniard, while the next younger brother, Carlos, was more
blonde and taller, but he lacked the dignity and polish of
Enrique, who is a fine linguist and most kindly satisfied
my curiosity by showing many relics of his father, such as
his field-marshal's baton of blue velvet studded with gold
stars and the ends of the same metal beautifully Avorked;
a gold riding-whip presented by General Mitre upon the
occasion of a conference ; official papers signed by Francia
and all of his successors in office until the war began;
military decorations ; a file of a paper in Guarani, which Avas
published in his father's camp during the Avhole Avar, and
many other most interesting things.
Above Corrientes we passed several boats loaded with
oranges, for it Avas the first of May and the crop was beginning
to come down. They are piled in as Ave Avould pile in stones,

222 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
filling the AAdiole boat, and that they may hold still more, the
sides are built up with a rough basket-work, and the golden
fruit put in until it almost overflows. We entered the mouth
of the Paraguay River quite late in the afternoon", and our first
glimpse of the country was of a low point of land between the
Parana and Paraguay, which proved to be an island where
6,000 Brazilians were buried during the war, having died of
wounds and disease. It seemed odd, after our hundreds of
miles of river traveling, to finally be where we could see both
banks, but it was very pleasant — Ave felt as if we were seeing
more. The next morning we passed Humaita, our first Para
guayan town, which was spread out some distance along a low
bluff, at which lay two vessels being loaded by women with
oranges. The town seemed to have about 1,000 inhabitants, and
over a long, low building floated the Paraguayan flag, which
consists of three broad horizontal stripes of red, white, and blue,
the center one of white bearing mid-way the arms of the
country, a lion guarding a pole on which is a liberty-cap. The
toAvn was dominated by the ruins of a church which was bat
tered clown by the Brazilians. All the houses have thatched
roofs. There was no sign of fort or fortification, but a battle
Avas fought there, and a chain stretched across the river to im
pede the enemy's fleet.
We passed a rather flourishing colony on the Argentine side,
and then came to the town of Villa Pilar, of the same size and

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 223
general appearance as Humaita. A steamer the size of ours
was an unusual sight, and when we passed, many of the people
came to the bank to see, which pleased us, as Ave wanted to see
them. They were generally dressed in Avhite cotton-cloth, had
copper-colored skins, and the women largely predominated.
The trees in the woods were lovely, so fresh and green, and
there were many flowers. After the mouth of the Vermejo
River was passed, the water was clear, which looked so pretty,
after the yellow, rushing flood of the Parana. There were
crocodiles sunning themselves on bits of beach or stranded logs,
and we saw a cross erected to mark the last resting-place of
some lonely pilgrim.
The next day we passed several colonies on the Argentine
side. That of Formosa is large, and has a cana factory, with
fields of sugar-cane about it, a fine office for the port officials,
and barracks for soldiers. Opposite is a straggling Paraguayan
toAvn, built to prevent smuggling. Wherever there was an open
space the ground was dotted with palm trees, and banana
plants surrounded each house. The next clay Ave began to see
hills and wooded mountains in the distance, while along the
river the bluffs grew higher and more picturesque. Hoav lovely
the tropical scenery looked ! The richness of color, the abun
dance, all such a treat to the eye, while the hills and the mount
ains seemed so glorious after more than a year of dull, colorless
.stretches of pampas, that I began to love the beautiful land my-

224 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
self, and felt a personal sympathy for the patriotic Paraguay
ans. It must be so easy to adore such a beautiful land. We
passed the toAvn of Villeta, Avhich is the center of the orange
trade, and near the back was a large shed, underneath which
were piles of oranges, and oxcarts full of them were being
dumped, adding to the accumulation. The peak of Lambare
near the bank, is a curiously shaped affair, Avhich is named for
an Indian chief ; its shape conical and so small the base that
it looks as if some one had pared it down. Just beyond we
rounded a point, and there spread before us, following the curv
ing shore, lay the object of our pilgrimage up 1,100 miles of
river, and it seemed hardly true that Ave had reached Asuncion.
There is a line of Avooded hills SAveeping around in a grand
curve behind the buildings, and as the ground of the site is
uneven, some buildings stand out very prominently ; especially
so does the palace of Lopez, which he began building, its square
tower Avith four minarets towering over all other buildings, and
vying with the church steeples.

XXIX.
THE PLACE OF LOPEZ.
THE BUSY WOMEN OF PARAGUAY — THEIR REMARKABLE SKILL
IN LACE WORK — INDIAN POTTERY AND OTHER CURIOUS
WARES  THE MARKETS AND THEIR MANY ATTRACTIONS.
There are about 25,000 inhabitants in Asuncion, and Ave
found several good Avharves, back of one of which they are
building a custom-house that promises to be quite a fine one.
Steamers run up tAvice a Aveek from Buenos Ayres to this city,.
and when one was in I liked to frequent the wharves to see the
bales of mate and tobacco, boxes of cigars, ferns, palms, orchids,
and other living plants ; parrots, parroquets, small birds, deer,
monkeys, and many small animals that Avere always brought
clown to be shipped to the loAver river ports. There are tAvo
street raihvays, and between their tracks the ground is paved ;
otherwise and elsewhere the streets are full of sancl, which gets
into one's shoes and seems unpleasant, but I heard several
people complaining that it was proposed to pave the streets,
15

226 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
which they thought would make the city unhealthy, as all of
those impurities which now sank into the sand would rest on
top of a pavement and poison the air !
Walking along one of the streets, near the river, Ave came to
Lopez's palace, which he had to abandon in an unfinished state
and fly before the allies to the northward, retreating until he
met death on the banks of the Aquidiban River, not far from the
Bolivian frontier. The government is now finishing the building
for its own use and it will be a very fine affair. The ground floor
and that above are spacious and roomy, with a grand staircase,
while a view from the tower takes in the city and surrounding
country for miles in every direction. On the city side it has a
large grass plat in front and toAvard the river two very high ter
races reach to the bank and command a lovely vieAV of the wind
ing river with its banks. BeloAv ground — in the basement — Avere
numbers of tiny cells for prisoners, some without even a ray of
light, and one Avhich Avas only to be reached by a passage about
six feet long, four feet from the ground, and just large enough
to shove a man's body through ; it gave one the horrors just to
look at these places.
Out once more in the soft, balmy air, we found on a street
leading to the river and just beyond the palace, a shop where
liquid groceries Avere dispensed and probably exchanged Avith
the ignoble red man for the numerous articles made by him,
that were always there on sale. Bows and arroAvs, earthenware,

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 227
and carved gourds predominated ; the bows and arrows gen
erally have been much used, the boAV of wood Avith rawhide
string, and very difficult to bend ; arrows of varying length,
tipped Avith wood or spear-shaped heads of iron ground to an
edge on both sides.
Most of the pottery was coarse and red, but there Avere a few
fine pieces, among which I secured a large, round bowl, Avith
straight sides, about two feet in diameter, the inside brown,
with indistinct patterns in black on it, the outside black, with
an all-over Greek pattern in red bands, with white edges to
them. There were numbers of grotesque figures of no apparent
use, such as horses with lion's mane and tail, clogs Avith monkeys
on their backs, cows with asses' ears and no horns or tail, Avomen
Avith short, fat legs, no feet, and long, slim arms, with a wreath
of flowers or a round hat and feathers on the head. These were
in red, black, or white, or of all three colors mixed.
The gourds are of all sizes and shapes, small ones for pepper,
salt, and other small articles, larger ones for meal and grain, and
all prettily decorated, ornamented first with a pattern scratched
on Avith a fish bone or pointed instrument and then colored with
different clays. These patterns are always pretty and some
times beautiful ; are always geometrical and never seek to copy
the flowing lines of flower, fruit, or other natural objects. In
the sandy streets one often met the wild Indian woman with a
child or two, trying to sell a feAv gourds or feather dusters. I

228 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
bought two gourds of a woman Avho was so repulsive in face,
form, and dirt that it seemed unnatural to see her fondle the
baby she carried.
The native Paraguayans are tall and bronze skinned. The
women are generally clad in white cotton skirt and manta, and
the folds falling in straight lines and draping them from head
to foot were very picturesque, and the burden carried balanced
on the head gave them erect carriage and even gait. When we
met a Avoman with a bundle that looked like cloth on her head
we would say Nanduti in a questioning tone, and then, if she
had any, the bundle would be lifted from her head and placed
anywhere in the sandy street, and we all would sit down to
enjoy a trade.
Nanduti is Guarani for spider's-web, and is used to specify a
lace as fine as any made in Europe and more charming because
of its novelty. It is made with a threaded needle, web and
pattern being woven at the same time, and is generally made
in wheels, hence the name, and these wheels are put together
to form borders for handkerchiefs, fans, yokes for chemises,
trimming by the yard, and a coarse variety for sofa pilloAvs, bed
covers, and towel ends. The thread used for fine pieces is
about No. 300. The workwoman stretches a bit of muslin on
a hand frame, threads a needle, and weaves her spider-web
wheel, attaching it at the edges to the muslin. When finished,
she cuts it loose and begins another. It is very cheap, as one

HANDKERCHIEF, PARAGUAYAN LACE.

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 229
can buy for $10 a handkerchief that has taken tAvo months' labor
to complete. They prefer gold in payment, as they use it to
make puzzle rings and ornaments, and offering it always caused
a reduction. It is said that they were taught by the Jesuit
mission fathers some 300 years ago, which may be so, but it
seems more likely to me that a native manufacture Avas im
proved and fostered by the fathers. In these bundles we also
found table cloths and napkins of loosely-woven cotton, Avith
bands of insertion down the center and large Avheels of nanduti
set in the corners.
Then there was a coarser knit lace, Avhich is made of un
bleached cotton threads and wears like iron ; it comes in
chemise yokes, edging, and inserting. There Avould be yokes of
darned and embroidered tulle that were gems in their Avay, and
at the bottom of the bundle would be pretty, serviceable ham
mocks of white cotton or striped tAvine and Avith a fringe falling
along each side. When the bargain for lace or dry-goods Avas
concluded, to touch our rings would suffice to make the vender
bring from her pocket a handkerchief on which would be
strung a number of gold puzzle rings made of slender chased
rings, eight or nine of them, twisted so to form a solid ring
when on the finger and falling apart as soon as taken off, re
quiring patience and dexterity to replace them. These women
make the articles in their own homes all over the country and
carry them to the towns for sale, but never sell to stores. If

230 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
ever their fine nanduti becomes known in this country it is sure
to become popular and take a permanent place among their
finest goods on the counters of our lace merchants.
The market was a perpetual source of delight, and I went
there every day of our stay. Raised two and three steps from
the street was the tall, square building, occupying a square,
and surrounded by a double row of columns reaching to the
roof, the whole colored a deep, dark red. Crouched among the
columns Avere groups of women and children, their bronze skins
showing plainly each outline where the pure white garments
parted, jet black hair falling down their backs in two braids or
caught up into a careless cluster by a big comb with gold top.
These gold combs were much prized formerly, and the
women divided into two classes, those who had gold combs and
those who had not. These groups were guarding piles of
yellow maize, yams, potatoes, and mandioca. Coming and
going were numbers of white-robed figures bearing burdens on
their heads, from tiny bundles to big red earthen jars filled with
water. Inside was a large, square, open court filled with low
tables covered with merchandise, and all, even those where
meat was cut up, served by women, for the war took so many
of the men that women do all the work and fill all sorts of un
accustomed places ; a male child being a treasure beyond price
in their eyes, the little naked fellows bare faced around as you
pass that you may notice the sex and envy the mother accord-

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 231
ingly. Here Ave found meat, vegetables, monkeys and other
pets, breads of all kinds, and among them a crescent-shaped roll
of bread and cheese baked together ; lace of the different kinds
and native-made jeAvelry stands, Avhere we purchased gold
beads, combs, and ear-rings. There Avere piles of native cigars
— excellent tobacco they are made of — and every one smokes.
The best brand is Papa Lucas and they cost $2 a hundred.
Just back of the market is a large barren plaza, where one of
the Presidents was once assassinated.

XXX.
THE ANNIVERSARY OF THE INDEPENDENCE OF
PARAGUAY.
A BALL AT THE " CLUB FAMILIAR " IN HONOR OF THE
OCCASION — THE BELLE OF THE EVENING — NOTABLE PER
SONS PRESENT  OLD PALACE OF LOPEZ.
The present government building of Asuncion is just beyond
the unfinished palace of Lopez, on the river bank. It stands
apart, surrounded by grass, and is rather an old-looking, two-
storied affair. We first saw it on the 14th of May, which is a
Paraguayan Independence Day. All the AvindoAvs were open.
and the people passing in and out, and tAvo bands playing out
side gave the Avhole a properly festive air, properly festive
because President Escobar was holding a reception within.
Many military personages were coming and going, and some
civilians in broadcloth, but none of the people, none of the
masses. They failed to take any interest except in the music,
which was continuous, for as soon as one band stopped to take

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 233
breath the other one piped up. Near-by was a goodly monu
ment, on which Ave read, " Foundation of Paraguay, 15th of
August, 1536. First shout of liberty, 14th of May, 1811. Oath
of the Constitution, 25th of November, 1870. Independence
Day, 25th of December, 1842." Just beyond Avas a stretch of
green turf in front of the cathedral, which is a fine, large old
structure with roomy interior, tAvo of the windows being of
stained glass. The high altar is covered with plates of silver,
and many ornaments of the same precious metals were about it.
There was a curious bit of old sculptured marble for a holy-
water basin that we were told came from ancient Rome ; if so,
it probably has a history, and anyway I longed to hear it speak,
that what it had witnessed of the unwritten history of Paraguay
might have been poured into our longing ear.
The night of the 14th Ave Avere invited to a ball given by the
Club Familiar to celebrate the clay, and I Avas all the more
anxious to go as it was whispered in the air that the adherents
of the political party named " Blue," or Conservative, had
agreed to assassinate the ex-secretary of state, Senor Cavallero,
that evening at this same ball. He belonged to the Radicals,
or " Reds," and it was determined to strike at him because he
was believed to be a modern Warwick, the true power behind
the throne. As we approached the scene of festivities Ave
noticed double guards at every corner, and at the entrance a
file of soldiers was seated, with another file concealed behind a

234 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
screen of trees in the patio. Either precautions were too well
taken or they were ashamed to have a scrimmage before so
many naval officers of the mother Republic, whose Stars and
Stripes were floating from a war-ship in their harbor for the first
time for over thirty years. Anyway the evening passed off
quietly, and but for the guards and the absence of some
Paraguayan officials and friends, who told me they considered
discretion the better part of valor, one might have fancied all
at peace.
The club-house is large and the patio Avas beautifully
decorated Avith flowers, and amidst them was set the supper
table and the bands of music placed. Eight connecting rooms
were opened for dancing, brilliantly lighted Avith gas, and as
the music was continuous, the floor was ahvays occupied by
dancers. As usual, the girls were pretty and the men carried
themselves well. Of course there was a sprinkling of English
men — one sees them everyAvhere in this Avorld, struggling
for a living, because their little island is full to overfloAving,
and those who drop over the edges must go someAvhere.
I Avas amused to see some of them ostentatiously displaying
red or blue handkerchiefs to indicate their political pref
erences, as if an Englishman born in Britain was ever any
thing else but an Englishman, or could take any but the most
evanescent interest in foreign politics. It takes an Irishman
to go heart and soul into another man's fight, and generously

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 235
spend his blood in a brother's cause. The Avife of our vice-
consul, Mme. Saquier, bore off the palm for beauty, and as
a girl she was called the Flower of Paraguay. Still young,
she is beautiful in feature, form, and expression, as well as
graceful in movement. Her father was called from his house
and shot by order of Francisco Solano Lopez, because he Avas
of Spanish birth, and no foreigner could then live in Paraguay.
President Escobar received us with words of cordial greeting
and a pleasant smile. He is quite tall, broad-shouldered,
with thin brown hair and beard, the latter almost hiding
his bad teeth, while his features and skin indicate a certain
amount of Indian blood. Afterward we frequently met him
riding through the streets, attended by a single orderly.
Near him, at the ball, stood Seflor Cavallero, a tall, portly,
gray-haired man, with an intelligent face. I often wonder
if his enemies have killed him yet. Supper was served all the
evening, and consisted of croquettes, sandAviches, cakes, port
wine, and beer. Quadrilles, waltzes, polkas, and the danza
Avere the dances. The minister of foreign affairs, SeflOr
Centurion, and his wife, were among those we met, his face
being remarkable for a bad scar on each side of the jaAVS,
as if a bullet had plowed its Avay through, and his wife
afterward told me that such was the case, and that he re
ceived the wound at the time Lopez was killed on the banks
of the Aquidiban, her husband having been with him at the

236 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
time, and escaping by hiding in the woods and remaining
there in spite of his terrible Avound until the Brazilians had
passed on.
The old palace of Lopez, where he resided, is now the
post-office, and quite near it is an unfinished copy of the
Invalides in Paris, which he intended for his mausoleum.
An unfinished theater or opera-house also bears testimony
to his passion in the way of erecting large buildings, nearly
all of Avhich a,re unfinished. The outer Avails of the theater,
rising two stories high, are all that remains of that building,
which was so large that it is a Avonder as to where he expected
to find an audience. I Avas told that any one who Avould
build or finish off rooms or shops inside the walls could get
their rent free for ten years, the government hoping thus
to get a finished building, good for some use at the end of a
decade. The railway station is a large one, whence starts
a line, the first built in South America, for the town of
Encarnacion, on the Parana River. It is finished as far as
Paraguari, and will soon be extended to Villa Rica. At
Encarnacion it expects to meet an Argentine line. We were
anxious to make the trip as far as Paraguari, but advised
not to, for our time was limited, and we were told that the
roadbed had not been repaired since the English originally
laid the line, away back in the sixties.

XXXI.
SUBURBS OF ASUNCION.
BRIGHT AMERICAN SCHOOLMA'AMS IN THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS
—HOW MATE LEAVES ARE GATHERED AND PACKED —
PARAGUAYAN MAN-OF-WAR " PIRAPO."
The pleasantest excursion that AA'e made in the environs of
Asuncion was to the country house of Dr. Stewart, the British
consul, but a man who has made Paraguay so long his home
that he is quite identified Avith it, and during the war Avas
Lopez's chief medical officer. We rode a long way in the
street-car, and finally alighted at the entrance to a shady lane,
down which our Avay lay for some time until we came to a large
gate, that gave entrance to a broad, uneven laAvn, dotted with
trees and sheep, lying in front of a large house, to the left of
which were meadows with lovely trees, while to the right the
forest stretched a mile in a seemingly unbroken line to the
river ; the forest belonging to the estate.
Mrs. Stewart and her daughters welcomed us. She is a full-

238 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
blooded Paraguayan, Avith skin as Avhite as a Saxon, tall, fine
figure, and fine features. She was at home during all the war,
and could a tale of hardship and horror unfold did she choose
to speak, as her husband's good fortune in escaping after Lopez
had doomed him, irritated the tyrant, and he made her suffer
accordingly. Back of the house is a charming garden filled Avith many
strange native fruits and flowers, among them orchids,
delicious of odor and fascinating in color and shape. One
spike of lavender, of butterfly-like blossoms, with rich, heavy
fragrance, lingers especially in my memory. Then there were
many strangers that the doctor had sent for, among them a
sandalwood tree, tall and flourishing.
Another suburb which is rapidly growing to be a town is
called Villa Morra. It is reached by street-cars, and on the
Avay Ave passed the central cemetery, where I Avished to alight
and examine ; but such a clamor Avas raised about contracting
dreadful diseases that I was fain to be content with a passing
glimpse of white head-stones and crosses, decorated with
Avreaths of artificial flowers and ribbons. Villa Morra was
started by an Italian gentleman, who owned the land, and as
he also OAvned a street-car line, he connected the two, built a
hotel, laid out villa sites in the forest, and named the place for
himself. We had a nice breakfast at the hotel, which had only a few

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 239
bedrooms, but the combination dining and billiard room Avas
unusually spacious. Across the road, in the forest, surrounded
by fern-trees and begonias, was a public bathhouse ; the large
tubs filled with fresh spring water, looking very cool and
inviting. We took tea with some English acquaintances in
one of the houses that bordered the road. One of the doors to
the parlor opened on to the road, the other into the forest, a
place where the ducks and hens met with all sorts of adventures
and seldom came home at night as numerous a flock as started
out in the morning. The stable was a square of logs piled up
to keep the horses from wild animals, and Avas rather primitive,
but all the climate called for.
It was delightful to sit almost surrounded by the forest and
watch the shades of green shift and change as the wind passed
over the ferns and through the branches of the trees, but the
talk of our host and hostess was all of the halcyon days to come,
when their ship should have reached port and they be settled
once more in England to enjoy life. In the forest were begonia
blossoms, and along the roads hibiscus, while the gardens Avere
ablaze with blossoms, a feast of color, and a woman near the
Church of San Roque, whom we went to see making nanduti,
gave me some of the largest, finest-colored La France roses that
I ever saw anywhere.
The hotel in the city is on the Calle Palmas, and is a large
building Avith nice airy rooms, but none of the modern con-

240 ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR.
veniences. The dining-room is the patio and the food excel
lent, as well as the fruit. Not far away was the public school,
as Paraguay has copied the Argentine in adopting our public
school system, and has imported tAvo United States young
Avomen to begin the Avork — a Miss Wales and a Miss Reid. They
were furnished with a fine large house, were accumulating
excellent apparatus, and Avere paid good salaries regularly. Of
course, it Avas exile, but Miss Wales seemed too much inter
ested to mind, and Miss Reid was looking forward to matrimony.
The children were of the best families and attendance good,
the hours of attendance being somewhat longer than with us,
and a feAv extra branches taught.
There were a good many pretty leopard skins for sale, as the
animals were numerous farther up country, and a stuffed skin
was presented to us, which not only proved a thing of beauty
and a joy forever, but kept the mischie\-ous monkey out of the
cabin. He first saw it when coming cIoavii by Avay of the hang
ing lamp, and could hardly believe his eyes ; but Avhen he was
sure, fled Avith a IioavI of terror that brought all hands to the
scene. One clay, in wandering about, Ave found an old woman
Avho spoke Spanish, and she invited us into her little hut of
two rooms and offered milk to refresh us. Everything was
neat as a pin, and in the adjoining room her pretty daughter
was teaching a feAV little felloAvs their A B C's for a few cents
a week each one. Doors and Avindows habitually stood open,

ALONG SHORE WITH A MAN-OF-WAR. 241
and the passer-by could see plainly Avhat Avas going on Avithin,
and I was struck with the cleanliness and tidiness of the poor
people. Of course, as our visit Avas in Avinter, Ave missed the intense
tropical heat and the clouds of insects that annoy one con
tinually by day and by night, but the people Avere most kind
and courteous, opening their houses and entertaining us in
eA'ery Avay. Our consul was a bachelor living at the hotel, but
he and the vice-consul, Seflor Saguier, gave a ball to the
officers at Seflor Saguier's house, and other festivities were
planned, Avhen all Avere ended by orders for the ship to leave
for Buenos Ayres. We used to see great piles of mate bags,
and not far from where Ave were began the yerbales, or plains,
Avhere the mat<3 tree flourishes. As I have said before, it is a,
species of holly. Hex Paraguayensis is the technical name,
and the leaves are gathered from the wild trees. It does not
seem to be cultivated at all.
A fire is built on the ground, over this a dome of brush is built,
and this dome thickly covered with mate" twigs bearing leaves..
When the leaves are dried by the fire they are packed into hide
bags, which hide, being raw, is flexible and the mate' is forced
in with sticks until it is packed as tightly as possible ; then the
bag is put in the sun to dry and shrink, the result being a
package as hard as a stone and very heavy for its bulk. Some
packages must have been three feet square at the seAved edges,
16

242 ALONG SHORE WITH A M^js-vF-WAR.
and others not more than a foot, yet some of the latter woulu
weigh eight pounds. The hair of the animal is left on, which
gives variety in color and makes piles of them picturesque.
There was a brick factory and kiln below the city, and here,
as everywhere on the river, the houses were made of these kiln-
dried bricks and covered inside and out Avith adobe-like plaster.
They have one little-man-of-war, the Pirapo, a small steamer whicb
came down the river while we were there, and when visited by
one of our officers he was asked to excuse the appearance of the
deck, as they had been in a fight and had not had time to clean
up. They then had on board the body of a general Avho had been
killed in the revolution up at San Pedro a few days previously,
and as he was quite a man he had a large funeral, the President
in person attending.
A few days later we steamed down the swiftly-flowing river
and Paraguay vanished from our view to become a memory
of green hills ; lovely valleys ; romantic, heroic history, and
pleasant, gracious people. A gem of a country set in the bosom
of the South American Continent.

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