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EIGHTEEN YEARS IN
UGANDA AND EAST
AFRICA

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EIGHTEEN YEARS
IN
UGANDA & EAST AFRICA

BY

ALFRED R. TUCKER
M I
HON. D.D. OXFORD AND DURHAM, HON. LL.D. CAMB.
BISHOP OF UGANDA

WITH ILLDSTEATIONS
FEOM DKAWINGS BY THE AUTHOR
AND A MAP

IN TWO VOLUMES
VOL. II.

LONDON
EDWARD ARNOLD
l^ublistiei- to tfit JnJjia ©fftre
1908
{All rights reserved)

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CONTENTS OF VOL. II
BOOK IV— DIFFICULTIES— TRIALS— SORROWS
(^Continued')
CHAPTER XXVI
From Ocean to Lake
Mbaruk's rebellion — Missionaries at Jilore — A perilous trip — Termination of
the Company's rule in Mombasa — Good work done by the Company —
Its record — Its services in the cause of freedom — New Year's Day, 1889,
at Rabai — Arrival of the first party of ladies for Uganda — Extracts from
my diary — Third journey to Uganda — The start — Delay at Rabai —
Medical work on the road — Tsavo — Machakos — Rest at Kikuyu — Meeting
with Pilkington and Baskerville — Morandat in flood — March round
Naivasha — Starving porters — Disaster to our advance caravan — Scene
of the slaughter — A terrible thunderstorm — Passage of the Nile — Arrival
in Mengo — Great crowds ....... Pp. 1-30
CHAPTER XXVII
A New Eea in the Histoby of the Chdkch
A great move forward — The Holy Spirit the moving power — Seven new stations
opened — Fall of the cathedral in Mengo — Twenty-three suburban churches
— Confirmations — Gathering clouds in Toro — Journey to Busoga — Arrival
at Luba's — Bugaya — A night journey — " Are you a spirit or are you a
man ? " — Evil spirits — Startling news from Uganda — Hurried return
thither — Kasagama's story — His trial and triumphal acquittal — His
baptism, March 15, 1896 — Visit to the islands — Arrival at Mengo Pp. 31-43
CHAPTER XXVIII
In Jotoneyings Cm
Journey to Toro — Enthusiastic reception by the king and people — How Christi
anity came to the country — First baptism in Toro — Plans for the evangelisa
tion of Toro — Baptism of the Queen and Queen-Mother — King confirmed —
Return to Uganda — Ordination of three priests and six deacons — Twenty-
two lay Evangelists licensed — A last confirmation service — Start for the
coast — Arrival at Nasa — Death of Nickisson — Ordination — Mpwapwa —
Simeoni carried off by a lion — Severe illness — Bombardment of Zanzibar —
Arrival at Mombasa — Invalided home .... Pp. 44-63
n V 6

vi CONTENTS
CHAPTER XXIX
The Slave Question
The slave question in Mombasa and the coast districts — The surrender o
fugitive slaves — Lord Salisbury's despatch — What was to be done on the
retirement of the Company— Letter to Mr. Crauford— Sir A. Hardinge's
views — Livingstone — Treaty of 1873 — Various decrees — Interview with
Lord Salisbury and Mr. G. N. Curzon— The decree of April 6, 1897— Its
incomplete nature — The question raised in the House of Commons —
Abolition of the status of slavery — Division of the Diocese of B. Eq.
Africa  Pp. 64-74

CHAPTER XXX
Gathering Cloitds
The shadow of a great trouble — Teachers in Uganda and their work — A survey
of the work at this date — Women's work — Birth of Mwanga's son and heir —
Arrival of reinforcements — Pilkington' s wonderful journey — The beginning
of medical work — Diamond Jubilee celebrations — Flight of Mwanga —
Causes of the rebellion — Daudi Cwa proclaimed — Death of Pilkington —
The completion of his work — Return of Mwanga — ^Joins Kabarega —
Flight  Pp. 75-95

BOOK V— SOWING AND REAPING
CHAPTER XXXI
SuspBirsB
Departure from England— Arrival in Mombasa for the third time— Alarming
intelligence— Two missionary parties— Hubbard accidentally shot— A
church for the English community— The care of a fugitive slave— Visit
to Jilore— Telegram announcing the death of Pilkington— Return to
Mombasa— Voyage in a dhow— Journey to Taveta— A long march-
Death of Miss Goyen— Journey to Uganda— Arrival . . Pp. 97-116
CHAPTER XXXII
A Review oe the Sititation
A review of the situation— (1) State of the country— (2) The work of the Church
—The National Council— A new postal system— Wealth fiowing into the
country— The spiritual condition of the Church— Two sad events-
Execution of mutineers— Funeral service— Usukuma or Toro '—Divine
guidance-The call to Toro-The work there— A great advance— Visit
to Katwe—Ruwenzori— Crater Lakes— The Albert Edward Lake— Visit
to an island chief-Visit to Mboga-The SemUki river— The great forest
—Boiling sprmgs-History of the work at Mboga— Apolo and Sedulaka—
Return to Mengo  p ii>j_i^^

CONTENTS vii
CHAPTER XXXIII
EntrcATioN
Conference of missionaries— A constitution for the Church- The communicant
If. the elector — The] position of] the [missionaries — Withdrawal of the
draft— Educational work— A religious foundation— Miss Chadwiok's
first efforts to organise school work— Mr. Hattersley's work — His opinion of
the intelligence of Baganda boys — A problem — Industrial work— Mackay's
work — Training for the whole man — Medical missionary work — Christ-like
pity— Care for the sick — Dr. Gaskoin Wright — Dr. A. R. Cook—
Ho.spital opened, June 1897  Pp. 146-158
CHAPTER XXXIV
NASA
Visit to Nasa — Bisappointed hopes — A terrible storm — A narrow escape —
Nasa as a sphere of missionary work — The Wasukuma — Their backward
condition — Its causes — What the Gospel had done — Visit to Kapongo —
Confirmation — Evangelistic service — The solitary witness — The schools —
Work among the young — Departure from Nasa — Kagei — The steam-
launch abandoned for canoes — The journey back — The race, the canoe
wins  Pp. 159-170
CHAPTER XXXV
The Dying Century
The last year of the century — A week of prayer — Ordination — Journey to
Bunyoro — Kisalizi — Mutineers raid the lines of communication — Disaster
to Lieutenant Hannyngton's force — Mruli — Gordon's old fort — MasLndi —
Baptism of the King of Bunyoro — Kahora — A terrible storm — Arrival at
Mitiana — Confirmation — Mengo .... Pp. 171-185

CHAPTER XXXVI
The Evangelisation of Koki
How Christianity first came to Koki — A surly chief — A hard march— Kajuna
— Arrival at Rakai in Koki — A Confirmation service in the open air —
News of the capture of Mwanga and Kabarega — Arrival at Bale — Voyage
to Sese — Bukasa and Bubembe — Back once more at Mengo Pp. 186-197
CHAPTER XXXVII
Captivity and Death of Mwanga
Arrival of Mwanga and Kabarega at Mengo — " The Europeans have pitied
him " — Their deportation to the coast — Removal to the Seychelles —
Baptism and death of Mwanga — A busy time — Ordination — Confirmation
— Second conference of missionaries — The constitution again — Higher
education of clergy and teachers — Essential qualities for teachers — Prayer,
its place — Primary education — Letter] to parents'and chiefs Pp. 198-208

viii CONTENTS
CHAPTER XXXVIII
BuSOGA
Its backward condition — The causes of this — Its political divisions — Attempts
to evangelise Busoga — The language problem — Start for Busoga, July 17,
1899 — Arrival at Luba's — Native feast — Journey through South Busoga —
Arrival at Iganga — A touching incident at Tabingwa's — Gabula's — Return
to Mengo  Pp. 209-228

CHAPTER XXXIX
Nkole
Nkole, a refuge for the Baganda — Attempts to evangelise Nkole — Description
of the country — Its geographical position — Population — The Bahima and
the Bairu — Journey through Budu and Koki — Arrival in Nkole — Struggle
with the witch doctors — The victory — The journey to Toro — A slave
woman — Arrival in Toro — The Sequel . . . Pp. 229-251

CHAPTER XL
A New Century and a New Era
Arrival of Sir H. H. Johnston — His proposals for the re-organisation of the
country — Land tenure — Hut and gun taxes — Dissatisfaction of the chiefs —
The question of uncultivated land— The "mailo" — Solution of the problem
—Treaty signed— Its effects— The break-up of the feudal system— Measures
for meeting the new order of things — Education — Industrial mission 
General activity ....... Pp. 253-272

BOOK VI— TRANSITION— EXPANSION-
CONSOLIDATION CHAPTER XLI
Progress
Death of Queen Victoria-Increased number of communicants— Extension to
Bwekula-Self-sacrifice of evangelists-Great success-Extension to
Bukedi— Simei Kakungulu— Crabtree settles at Masaba^The Bagishu—
Iheir language and customs-Consolidation at Mengo-The influence of
bcripture— The national council— A remarkable incident— A new cathedral
—Laying the foundation-stone J. . . . Pp |273-285

CONTENTS ix
CHAPTER XLII
The Uganda Railway
New forces at work in Uganda — The railway a political necessity — A triumph
of engineering skill — A fascinating journey — Meeting of the past with the
present — Nairobi — What has the railway done ? — Human porterage at
an end — Slave traffic killed — Central Africa aroused from slumber —
Steamers upon the Lake — German East Africa affected — Undesirables —
Financial success— Moral results .... Pp. 286-296
CHAPTER XLIII
Sunshine and Shadow
The Katikiro's visit to England — His reception by the C.M.S. Committee — His
impressions — The coronation ceremony — Return to Uganda — Destruction
of the new hospital — Colonel J. Hayes Sadler — No continuity in the policy
of the administration — The sleeping sickness — Its nature — Attempts to
deal with it — Discovery of the means of conveyance and infection Pp. 297-310
CHAPTER XLIV
From Utmost East to Utmost West
A sad beginning to the year IfiflS — Journey to Toro — Broken health — Journey
to Masaba — Passage of the Mpologoma — Mt. Elgon — A madman —
Masaba — Mbale — Kakungulu's settlement — A waterfall — A storm —
Passage of the Lwajali — Kisalizi — Return to Mengo— -Third great journey
— Koki — A narrow escape — Nkole — Toro — Return to Mengo — SummaryPp. 311-326
CHAPTER XLV
PoSSIBILITIBS AND OPPORTUNITIES
Characteristic features in the history of the Church — Education — Mengo High
School — King's School, Budo — Girls' School, Gayaza — Extension — Start
for the Nile Valley — Ojigi's — Terrible storms — Owin's — Sir Samuel and
Lady Baker — Wadelai — Return to Mengo — Consecration of the new Cathe
dral— A wonderful collection .... Pp. 327-341
CHAPTER XLVE
Final Scenes
Opening of the new hospital — Inauguration of the Mengo High School —
Speech by Mbogo — Visit of the Bishop of Zanzibar — Empire Day — Visit
to Busega — The place of martyrdom — Discovery of the remains of the
martyrs — They are laid to rest — Special mission services at Mengo —
60,000 attendances — Happy results — New classes- Conferences — A further
step in Church organisation — A synod arranged for— I start on a visit to
the Lunyoro speaking countries — Koki — Nkole— Toro and Bunyoro—
! Lunyoro v. Luganda — Return to Mengo . . . Pp. 342-354

X CONTENTS
CHAPTER XL VII
Summary, 1890-1908
Political changes — Protectorates of East Africa and Uganda — Zanzibar —
Slavery abolished — The Masai subjugated — Porters in the old days — Now
the railway — Canoes — Steamers — Motor-car — The outward life of the
Baganda — Good houses — The forces which have brought these changes —
The Arabs — Travellers — I.B.E.A. Company — British administration —
Missionary work the greatest influence — The ministry — Churches —
Schools — Medical work — Educational work — Conclusion — The Divine
Presence  Pp. 355-369
Appendix — Statistics ....... Pp. 370-371
Index  Pp. 372-388

ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II

The Cathedral of St. Paul, Namirembe {in colour) Frontispiece
Bamboo forest on Man To face page 20
The Victoria Nyanza at Luba's „ 24<
Camp on the Baringo Road „ 28
The church on the island of Bukasa, Victoria Nyanza „ 38
The Bishop on a Confirmation Tour — A Night on the
Victoria Nyanza „ 42
Ruwenzori from Kabarole „ 48
The lake near Kabarole, Toro — Ruwenzori in the
background „ 52
A well in the old Fort, Mombasa „ 62
The Victoria Nyanza from the heights above Luba's „ 88
Looking out from the Bishop's study, Uganda „ 116
Nakabimba, Uganda „ 126
Katwe — an outpost of the Empire {in colour) „ 1 30
The Semliki valley from a shoulder of Ruwenzori „ 136
The boiling springs, Toro „ 140
The Albert Nyanza „ 172
The Nile at Mruli — The ruins of General Gordon's Fort „ 178
A hut in Bunyoro „ 182
The Nile at Mruli „ 194
A banana plantation, Busoga „ 220
Lake Mazinga, Nkole „ 238
Albert Edward Nyanza — Ruwenzori in the distance „ 248
A curious rock in the Bukedi country „ 254
One of the shoulders of Mount Elgon, " Nkoko njeru " „ 278
A floating house on the Mpologoma — " a backwater of
the Nile „ 314

xii ILLUSTRATIONS
Waterfall on Mount Elgon
A village in the Acholi country, Nile valley
Patigo, in the Nile valley
Granaries in a native village, Nile valley
ABakonjo village, Toro {in colour)
Ruwenzori from the Semliki valley

To face

page

318

3f

332

S3

336

3}

338

33

352
358
EIGHTEEN YEAES IN UGANDA
AND EAST AFEICA

CHAPTEE XXVI
FROM OCEAN TO LAKE
' He shall deliver thee in six troubles ; yea in seven there shall
no evil touch thee. In famine He shall redeem thee from death,
and in war from the power of the sword.'— Job v. 19, 20.
In the spring of 1895, the political situation in the
coast districts was anything but satisfactory. Trouble
was evidently brewing ; there was a restlessness among
the Arabs of Mombasa and Takaungu which was
disquieting, if not alarming. Sehm, the great Arab
ehief of the latter place, had died, leaving two nephews,
each of whom claimed the office of Liwali. One was
of a somewhat turbulent character — a man of strong
individuality, the other of a quieter and milder dis
position. The Company, whose duty it was to decide
as to their respective claims, considered that the man
of gentler disposition would be more amenable to its
influence and submissive to its power, and there
fore appointed Raschid to succeed his uncle as Liwali
or Governor of Takaungu. At once the elder nephew
set up the standard of revolt, and was joined by a
number of the disaffected Swahilis and Arabs in his
rebellion against the authority of the Company.
II A

2 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
Early in June the Consul-General and General Lloyd
Matthews, with four ships of war and a number of
troops, went up to Takaungu, but mthout effecting
much. The rebels simply retired into the bush and
defied the blue-jackets and Swahili troops, who, being
without transport, were unable to follow them into
the wilds of the Nyika and Giriama countries. The
Company was anxious mainly on two points —
one the attitude of the Arabs of Mombasa, always
more or less seditious; the other the attitude of their
old enemy, Mbaruk of Mwele. The former it was
possible to overawe by a gunboat or two ; but the
latter, entrenched in his stronghold, was a power to
be reckoned with. They tried conciliation but failed,
and once again Mbaruk was in rebelKon. Later in the
year (after I had left the coast and was well on my
way to Uganda) Rabai was actually attacked and a
part of the settlement destroyed. An attempt at a
later date was made also upon Freretown, but it came
to nothing. The back of the rebellion, however, was
broken by that gallant sailor. Admiral Sir Harry Rawson,
who, landing a force of blue-jackets, attacked, took and
destroyed Mwele itself, Mbaruk's stronghold ; as for
Mbaruk, he was not finally disposed of until some
months later, when, after having been hunted about
hither and thither as a fugitive, he finally took refuge
in German territory and was interned there by the
authorities. In the meanwhile our missionaries at Jilore had been
in great peril. I had sent instructions to Burt (who
was in charge) to bring down Miss Wyatt and Miss
Higginbotham to the coast; but the telegraph wire
was cut immediately after the message had been
despatched, and its fate was therefore uncertain. The
Consul-General, however, sent up an escort of soldiers

Chap. 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 3
from Malindi to bring them down. On June the 23rd,
hearing that both the former and General Matthews
were in a man-o'-war outside the harbour waiting for
their mails to be sent off, I went out in an open boat
in order, if possible, to learn from them the exact
position of affairs with regard to our Mission and
missionaries. It was rather a difficult task getting on
board. The south-west monsoon was blowing hard
and there was a big sea on. It was indeed a case of
being " rocked in the cradle of the deep," At one
moment we were on the crest of a high wave, at another
right down in the trough of the sea, unable even to see
the ship for which we were making, and which was
certainly not half a mUe away. Eventually, however,
by dint of hard pulHng, we got under the lee of the
man-of-war, where we were sheltered, and from which
we were able after a struggle to get alongside. Having
clambered on board, both the Consul-General and Sir
Harry Rawson explained the situation, from which
it was quite clear that for many months to come all
work at Jilore must be suspended. It was with con
siderable difficulty that we managed to get back to
Mombasa. For some time there was a doubt as to
whether we might not be driven on to the reef which
lined and guarded the coast of the mainland, and upon
which the waves broke in thundering monotony. This,
of course, would have meant instant destruction. Our
struggle to win the harbour was watched by a number
of interested spectators upon the walls of the old fort.
However, by dint of the most strenuous exertion on
the part of our crew, and by steering, not for our own
goal, but for the island under whose lee we might get
shelter from the fuU force of the monsoon, we gradually
won our way back, and just before sunset reached
the shore.

4 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
The next day, to my great relief, came a telegram
from Burt, dated —
' Malindi, June 23ri, 1895.
' AU weU.'
Seven days later the Juba steamed into harbour with
the Jilore missionaries on board. Their leaving their
work was not due to the dangerous circumstances under
which it must of necessity be carried on, but to the
"direct orders" of the Consul-General. Had they
refused obedience they would unquestionably have been
brought down by force.
On July 1st came the termination of the Company's
rule in Mombasa, and the hauling down of its flag.
For many months the Directors had been in treaty
with the British Government for the surrender of their
rights imder the Charter of Incorporation. They found,
however, httle sympathy on the part of the Adminis
tration, and no disposition to meet them even half
way. It was with the greatest difficulty that a settle
ment was arrived at. That the Company had been
encouraged by H.M. Government to embark in large
schemes of extension, necessitating heavy expenditure,
was certain. Lord SaUsbury, with that discernment
of character which was so marked a feature in his
intellectual and intuitive equipment, saw in Sir W.
Mackinnon, who was the moving spirit of the East
African venture, the man above all others who, so far
as these regions were concerned, would give effect to
the rising national aspuiation for the establishment of
a world-wide empire.
The Manchester school of poHticians had become a
discredited party. New markets were becoming one
of the great necessities of the industrial Ufe of the
nation. No one reahsed this more fully than such

Chap. 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 5
men as Lord Sahsbury, Sir W. Mackinnon, and those
associated with him in the establishment of the I.B.E.A.
Company. What more natural, therefore, than for the
former to give all due encouragement to an enterprise
so likely to be the instrument for establishing British
supremacy in Central Africa, without the disagreeable
drawback of arousing that international jealousy which
without doubt direct imperial action would have done ?
It was a perfectly legitimate encouragement — hope
fully received, and imphcitly relied upon. Unhappily,
however, our system of party government made it
possible for the Opposition, on coming into office, to
reverse such a policy, and to undo, to a large extent,
the work of their predecessors. " Another king arose
who knew not Joseph." The result was a withdrawal
of all that moral support which hitherto the Company
had enjoyed, and an intimation that no material help
was to be looked for in the great work of building a
railway, which was now generally regarded as absolutely
essential for the development of the resources of the
country. Thus the position of the Company was fast becoming
an untenable one. At the same time the responsibility
resting upon H.M. Government, in virtue of the Pro
tectorate wliich had been proclaimed over Uganda,
was being more and more realised. For the proper
discharge of its duty in Uganda a free hand was
necessary in the whole of British East Africa. The
Company must be got rid of. But how ? There was
but one way. It must be bought out. The question
at issue became therefore simply one of price. The
Company had expended large sums on the further
ance of its aims. Was it to be recouped ? If so, in
what proportion ? Then with regard to its plant —
was this to|be taken at a valuation ? What about the

6 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
officers of the Company ? Were these to be taken
over by the Government ? And so on. At length an
arrangement was made and a settlement arrived at,
and so it came to pass that on July 1st the Company,
so far as its work in Africa was concerned, ceased to
exist ; its flag was hauled down and the Union Jack
hoisted — a sign that the British Government had taken
its place as tenants of the Sultan of Zanzibar.
That the Company had failed to reahse the expec
tations of its founders was apparent to most men,
and not least to men hke Sir Fowell Buxton and Sir
W. Mackinnon, who, with motives far higher and nobler
than those which actuate the mere money-grubber, had
freely spent large sums of money in an enterprise which
they had fondly hoped would have been of material
assistance in the great work which they had so much
at heart, viz., the regenerating of the Dark Continent
of Africa. This failure was to Sir W. Mackinnon more
than the disappointment of a hope not reahsed. It
was a real sorrow, and hastened, I do not doubt,
his death. And yet the Company had done good
service to Africa. It had entered into treaty relations
with a large number of inland tribes, and vast tracts
of country, such as Ukambani, Masailand, and Kikuyu,
had been opened up to the outside world. A brave
attempt had been made to administer these territories,
and some idea of law and order had in consequence
been impressed on the minds of those to whom hitherto
brute force, as a controUing power, had alone appealed.
These tribes had also acquired some faint reahsation
of the sanctity of hfe— the rights of property, the claims
of freedom, and the advantages of trade.
To the cause of freedom the Company had rendered
special service. In aU their treaties with the inland
tribes it had expressly laid it down that the members

Chap. 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 7
of such tribes as the Wakamba, the Wakikuyu, the
Wateita, the Wadumma, the Wanyika, and the Wagi-
riama, were not only incapable of being enslaved but
even of being held in bondage. It had also laboured
to bring about a solution of the runaway slave question.
Many fugitive slaves had taken refuge at such places
as Rabai, Ribe, Fuladoyo, Makangeni, and were hable
at any moment to be seized by their old masters and
reduced once more to a servile condition. A scheme
was formulated by which these men might work out
their freedom at a fixed rate. Not much success, how
ever, attended this effort. Such an arrangement is
not one that appeals to the African, whose attitude of
mind with regard to the future may be summed up in
the words :
' Sufficient unto the day is the evU thereof.'
Perhaps the most memorable act of the Company,
during its seven years' tenure of supreme authority in
East Africa, was the freeing formally and legally of
some 900 slaves who had sought refuge, from time to
time, either at the Mission station of Rabai, or in that
of the Methodist Mission at Ribe. The Arab slave
owners of Mombasa complained to the Administration
that these Mission stations had become places of refuge
for their fugitive property, and pressed for the sur
render of those men and women whom they were able
to identify as their slaves. An inquiry was held, and
it was found that at least six hundred such slaves were
settled in and around Rabai, and some three hundred
at Ribe. To surrender this mass of human property
was clearly impossible. Many of these fugitive slaves
had been hving for years in freedom and contentment.
They had been instructed in the fundamentals of
Christianity, and no inconsiderable proportion had been

8 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
baptized into the Christian faith. They had built
themselves houses, and were industriously cultivatmg
their httle bits of land, which enabled them to hve
in peace and plenty. To surrender them and their
chfldren into the hands of their Mohammedan task
masters would mean practicaUy the breaking up of a
Christian church, and apostasy for the greater number
of those who, at the cost of infinite labour and untold
self-sacrifice, had been hfted, so to speak, out of the
mire and clay into a higher level of moral and spiritual
hfe. Such an act would mean the death of the Company
ere its hfe had begun. It would arouse such a storm
of indignation in the home-land as would sweep away,
in well-merited contempt, an organisation which had
proved itself to be so unfit an interpreter of its own
motto, " Light and hberty." No ! surrender was im
possible. It was not to be thought of. The Arabs,
however, were clamouring for their slaves. What was
to be done ? Happily Mr. G. Mackenzie was at the
helm of affairs, and in large-hearted spirit of hberahty
faced the problem. He boldly proposed compensation.
It was really the only way of meeting the difficulty.
Accordingly the sum of £3500, to which Sir F. Buxton
and his family, in a spirit of noble generosity, con
tributed £1200, was devoted by the Company to this
purpose. New Year's Day 1889 wfll long be remembered in
East Africa, Outside the church at Rabai — a church
which had been bmlt very largely through the un
wearied labours of Binns — there is gathered a vast
throng of tribesmen — ^Wanyika, Waduruma, Wagiriama,
and Warabai, men and women, slaves it is true, but
now rejoicing in the prospect of a freedom of which
no man could rob them.
In the centre of this crowd there stands the Ad-

Chap. 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 9
ministrator of the Company, Mr. G. Mackenzie, and
by his side the Consul-General, Col. Euan Smith.
Grouped round them are the missionaries and native
pastors and teachers. And now it is told to the
listening multitude how that the hour of their freedom
has struck, and that henceforth they are their own
masters. At once a mighty shout rends the air.
" Asanti Bwana Asanti " — Thank you, sir, thank you —
is breathed forth from one and another who reahse,
more than the mass, the greatness of the blessing
conferred. And then there comes the pressing in of
the crowd to receive the paper signed and stamped —
the visible pledge of their hberty. " Truly," wrote
Mr. Salter Price, " it was a heart-moving occasion, and
one worth coining 6000 miles to see and take part in."
The next morning a thanksgiving service was held,
when the new church was crowded to suffocation and
hundreds were unable even to gain admission, " If
the Son make you free ye shall be free indeed," was
the preacher's text.
As he reminded his hearers of that hberty which
had been given to them the previous day, and exhorted
them to thank and praise God for it, he failed not to
tell them of a
' Bondage worse, far worse to bear
Than his who breathes by roof, and floor, and wall,
Pent in a tyrant's solitary thraU,'
even the bondage of those
' Who wear their fetters in their souls,'
and how if made free from this, by the Son of God, who
paid the price, they would be free indeed.
And so this memorable incident passes into history,
and the Company which so honoured its own

10 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
beginning continued its course until, as I have said, on
July 1, 1895, its days were at an end, and it sur
rendered its powers into the hands of H.M. Govern
ment. The formal handing over of the Company's powers
took place in the Baraza of the Liwah of Mombasa.
There, besides the Consul-General (Mr. Hardinge) ^
and General Lloyd Matthews, were gathered the
principal Arabs of the place, the officials of the Com
pany, the missionaries, and the traders — European,
Goanese, and Indian, It was a strange mixture of
nationahties, as varied in dress as in complexion. The
Consul-General, in a short speech, explained the position
of affairs, and stated that H.M. Government were
assuming aU the responsibflity of the Company with
respect to the administration of what would now be
a British Protectorate. He then called upon General
Matthews, as the Prune Minister of the Sultan, to address
the assembly. This he did, and, in endorsmg aU that
the Consul-General had said as to the work of the
Company and the assumption of its authority by
H.M, Government, stated that everything that had
been done had the sanction and entire approval of
H,H. the Sultan of Zanzibar, He added further the
important statement (to which it wiU be necessary to
draw attention later) that in all this rearrangement of
administration and authority, nothing would be done
to interfere vsdth the rehgion or customs of the Arab
and Mohammedan subjects of His Highness. This
statement was greeted with murmurs of approval
and the baraza came to an end. The booming of
guns from the ships of war in the harbour greeted
the hoisting of the Union Jack, and British rule in
East Africa was an accomphshed fact.
^ Now Sir Arthur Hardinge, K.C.M.G., His Majesty's Minister at Brussels.

Chap. 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 11
Eight days later the missionary party for Uganda
arrived. It consisted of the following members-
Miss E. M. Furley. Rev. T. R. Buckley.
Miss M. S. Thomsott. Rev. Martin J. Hall.
Miss L. Pilgrim. Mr. F. H. Wright.
Miss E. Brown. Mr. J. B. Purvis.
Miss J. E. Chadwick. Mr. A. Wilson.
Dr. Rattray.
They had travelled via the Cape, and arrived in perfect
health. Dr. Baxter had already come down from.
Usagara and was staying with me at Freretown. At
once final preparations were made for an early start.
Tents were unpacked, set up, and mosquito nets fitted.
The various messes were arranged, and the organisa
tion of the daily march, in all its ever-recurring details,
was settled. How busy the days of our last week at
the coast were, will be seen from a glance at the
following extract from my diary : —
July 9th. — The party for Uganda arrived at 6 a.m.
All well, thank God ! Went to Mombasa, A
provisional committee for the English Church
appointed. Unpacking and putting up tents
on return to Freretown.
July 10th. — Mombasa — back to Freretown at 3 p.m.
Arranging loads. Gleaners' meeting at my house.
Thirty-six missionaries present.
July 11th.— Packing. Mid-day prayer meeting. What
a rest ! Went to Mzizima.
July 12th. — Packing. Loads all ready to-night. Hard
work ! Very tired. Mombasa in the evening.
July ISth. — One hundred and sixty loads sent off.
Went to Mombasa — back again to Freretown
10 P,M,
July IM, — Sunday. Freretown. Harvest thanks-

12 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
giving, preached. " They gave their own selves
to the Lord."
July lUh.—Y&Yj busy ! Packing for the start to
morrow. Service of Holy Communion,
Of the start on July 16th, writing a few days later,
I find the following account in my journal : —
"Early on Tuesday morning all were astir. The
baggage required for immediate use was hastily arranged
and taken down to the shore, and packed on board the
dhow, which was to take it to the Rabai landing-place,
from whence the real start was to be made and where
the porters were already gathered together.
" At 8.30 A.M. the whole party assembled on the
shore— that shore which is to many of us a very
hallowed spot. Here our feet first tread the soil of
Africa. Here the heralds of the Cross are speeded
forth on their way to Uganda, or Usagara, or Taveta,
or Jilore, as the case may be. Here we say ' good-bye '
to those who, through failure of health or other causes,
are not permitted to continue their labours in our midst.
A sacred spot indeed it is. One's own thoughts could
not but go back to that time five years before when the
first party I was permitted to lead to Uganda started
on its way. The names of Dermott, Dunn, Hunt, and
others of that noble band of Christian heroes who have
died for the cause of Africa, rise in one's memory. Then
there is the thought of that yet larger party which
from this spot started some three years ago for the
same goal, Uganda. How fully were we kept, and how
wonderfully were we blest in our journeying ! And
now there is, through God's goodness, a yet larger party
to start on its way, and in that party five ladies to
take up the work amongst the women of Uganda,
" One's heart was almost too full for utterance as

Chap. 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 13
the whole assemblage joined together in earnest and
solemn prayer, committing the whole undertaking to
Him who alone is able to carry it to a successful con
clusion. And so the time came for us to say ' good-bye '
to those who had been so helpful to us in our prepara
tions and so sympathetic in our intercourse. Three
boats carried the members of the missionary party, and
the dhow, the baggage and our cooks and tent-boys.
At 9,30, in the midst of cheers and ' good-byes ' shouted
by the crowd on the shore, we started on our journey
of 800 miles. At noon the landing-place was reached,
and an hour and a half later saw us welcomed by our
Rabai friends. It was indeed an invasion of the
quietude of Rabai. We were thirteen in number. The
six Rabai workers made up a total of nineteen."
Through unavoidable causes a delay of three days
at Rabai was found necessary. This was utihsed in
perfecting the arrangements for carrying the ladies.
Dr. Baxter's plan was to use light wicker-work arm
chairs, to each of which were fixed two long bamboos
and an awning. Nothing could be easier or more
luxurious in the way of travelhng. Shoulder-straps
were fixed to the bamboos, which were held in the
carrier's hands. The pressure upon the shoulder was
thus relieved. Nothing could possibly exceed the
patience of the good doctor in making these arrange
ments. Early on the morning of the 17th the quiet of the
little village of Rabai was disturbed by the arrival of
the Acting Administrator with sixty soldiers. He had
been informed by telegraph that Aziz bin Raschid,
the rebel chief, was then on his way from Takaungu to
Gazi, and was asked to make an attempt to cut him
off, if his numbers were few. If the enemy was a
numerous body he was to be allowed to pass and

14 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
Admiral Rawson would deal with him at Gazi. The
scouts sent out came back late in the day with the
information that the enemy had passed Rabai, with
a strong force which it would be dangerous to meddle
with. On Saturday, July 20th, at about 11 a.m., the Consul-
General, accompanied by Admiral Rawson and his
flag-heutenant, arrived at Rabai in order to see for
themselves the resources of the place, and to take such
steps as they deemed advisable for blocking the roads
against the enemy in any attempt he might make
upon the place. The greeting accorded to the visitors
by the people of Rabai was a very warm one, and I
think was duly appreciated. At one o'clock they left
us and Rabai resumed its normal aspect of quiet repose.
At 3 p.m. the ladies of the missionary party started on
their donkeys for Mwache, the first camp on the road
some two hours away. The men had gone on ahead
in order to see to the getting up of the tents, and the
general arrangements of the camp. I had stayed
behind to welcome the Consul-General and Admiral
Rawson. At 5 p.m. the porters' baggage and the whole
Mission party were in camp.
Early the next morning we were all astir, and prepara
tions made for an immediate advance. In our camp
was a small menagerie. We had four camels, three
cows, and an equal number of calves ; two young oxen
for kilhng, twenty-three goats and sheep who had a
similar fate before them, and twenty-six donkeys.
The number of men carrying loads and looking after
the details of the camp was about 500.
And so the start was made, and day by day good
and uninterrupted progress was made. Samburu and
Taro were passed— the desert march easily accomphshed
with the help of 100 additional men carrying tins of

Chap, 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 15
water, Maungu was reached in due course, and water
found. When Teita and Voi were left behind, the
wild country which lay between the latter place and
the river Tsavo was entered upon. Its passage, how
ever, was easy. The Mackinnon road had made good
progress, and was a great help to us in this stage of
our journey. We were now on high ground some
2000 feet above sea-level, and the air was fresh and
bracing. All the missionaries were in perfect health
and fuU of hope.
Dr. Rattray had his hands full, however, with the
number of porters, who daily, as soon as the march was
over, besieged his tent for medicine. The cases were
generally surgical, requiring a considerable amount
of bandaging, &c. Both Miss Pilgrim and Miss
Thomsett, who were skilled nurses, were very useful
and active in the assistance which they rendered to
the doctor. This work among the porters was greatly
appreciated, not only by the patients themselves, but
also by their fellow porters, who watched the operators.
" See how these Enghshmen love their porters " was
a remark I heard more than once. Surely no caravan
of porters ever went up country so weU looked after
as this was. One effect I think was, that we had
extraordinarily few deserters. Those who ran away
were " professionals " — men who made it the business
of their hfe to " write on " for a journey, and then after
receiving a three months' advance of wages, take the
first opportunity of running away.
Tsavo, with its " waters of refreshment," was reached
on July 31st. Then on we went through Kinani and
Msongoleni to Kibwezi, where we arrived on August 3rd.
Our welcome from our friends of the Scotch Industrial
Mission was a very warm one, and the Sunday which
we spent in their midst was a very happy one. Then

16 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
on again to Makindu, Nzoi, and Kilungu to Machakos,
where on August 13th we were welcomed ¦ most kindly
by the Government representative (Mr. Ainsworth),
to whose kindness in 1892 we were so much indebted.
A two days' rest was indulged in at Machakos, and
then once more came the shouldering of loads and the
daily tramp. We were now on the healthy, breezy
Athi plains, and a wonderful sight it was, in the early
morning, to see them studded with game in infinite
variety. Here were hartebeests, there wildebeests.
Here again were zebras, and there rhino. Then as we
drew near to the Kikuyu forest we came upon the spot
where, three years before, I had witnessed such a sad
spectacle of dead and dying Masai. Skeletons were
lying about in all directions. The kraals were faihng
into ruin. Now, however, every trace of the villages
had disappeared, and only a few skulls marked the
place where flourishing homes, centres of life and
activity, had once been.
On August 18th we started for Fort Smith, and after
two and a half hours' marching were welcomed by
Mr. Gilkis,son, the officer in charge, and his colleague,
Mr. Russell. Nothing could exceed the kindness and
generous hospitahty of these two gentlemen. Indeed
the welcome accorded to us by aU the Government
officers on the road was most sympathetic and kind,
a welcome that I shaU ever remember with feelings of
the deepest gratitude.
We had now completed half the journey. In writing
home at this stage of our progress I thus summed up
the situation : —
" The whole party is in perfect health and looking
forward with bright hopefulness to the future. Wonder
fully we have been helped. Every difficulty has been
surmounted with surprising ease.' Water has never

Chap. 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 17
failed us ; food has been abundant. When we might
have expected hot, sunny, and in consequence trying
marches, the days have been cloudy and cool. No
rain has fallen, and there has been none of the dis
comfort of wet grass and damp clothes. Everything,
in fact, seems to have been divinely ordered by Him
who has called us to this work and entrusted to us this
mission, I know how much prayer has been offered
up on our behalf, and clearly do we trace this wonder
fully successful journey to the gracious answer, to
the faithful and loving intercessions of the Church
at home."
Three days were spent at Kikuyu in refitting our
caravan and replenishing our stores, and then on
August 21st a fresh start was made. At Ziwani, our
first camping-place after leaving Fort Smith, we had
our first frost — the thermometer registering 37°, or
5° above freezing, at 4 feet in the air, and 30° on the
grass. Happily the night was very still, or the porters
would have suffered considerably.
The next day our march was one of fifteen miles
over very rough ground. First there was an ascent of
nearly 1000 feet, and then a descent of about 700 feet.
We had just completed the ascent, and were resting
while a cup of tea was being prepared, when the sound
of a drum announced the arrival of Baskerville and
Pilkington on their way to the coast. It was a joyful
meeting on both sides. " They, of course," I wrote in
my diary, " were dehghted to see a goodly band of
reinforcements, and we were thankful to see our two
devoted brothers who have done such yeoman's service
in Africa during the past five and a half years. I
especially rejoiced at meeting the two companions of
my first journey to Uganda. It brought back many
memories — memories of those who were my com-
II B

18 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
panions on that never to be forgotten journey. Four
have ' entered into rest,' two are seeking refreshment
at home, and one is no longer connected with us. Five
years ! How much has happened since 1890 ! It was
indeed a matter for deep thankfulness to see our friends
looking so well after a long and trying journey. They
report the rivers as in flood, which of course is serious
news for us. However, we hope that by the time we
reach them the floods wiU have subsided. As we were
both in the middle of a march it was impossible for us
to stay long at our resting-place. Very reluctantly we
bid each other farewell, looking forward to meeting
again in Uganda (if God wiU) some eighteen months
hence." Alas ! I never saw Pilkington again. On reaching
home he was able to see the whole of the Luganda
Bible through the press, and was greatly used in stirring
up a largely increased interest in the great work of
Christian Missions. Returning to Uganda in the autumn
of 1896, he was permitted to labour for a few brief months
in the loved land of his adoption ; but (as wiU be told
in due course) lost his hfe in taking part, at the caU
of the authorities, in the suppression of the mutiny of
the Sudanese soldiery. But to return to my story.
Finding the Morandat in flood we were obhged to
travel round the western shores of Lake Naivasha. It
meant an extra day's march, but we were well repaid
by the wonderful beauty of the scenery through which
we passed. At Gilgil we found ourselves once more back
on the old road. Ehnenteita, Kambi ya Mbaruk, and
Nakuru were aU successively passed. The river Lilwa
— often in flood, and at such times difficult to cross —
now lay in our path. Was it in flood or not, was the
question which was anxiously debated as we drew near
to the belt of trees which marked its meanderings. I

Chap. 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 19
hastened on ahead of the party and soon found myself
upon the river bank. Alas ! to ford it was impossible.
Instinctively I turned towards the great trees which
lined the banks higher up, and there, to my great joy,
was a natural bridge. An immense tree had fallen
across the river and made its passage quite practicable.
Nearly three hours, however, were consumed in getting
all the men and loads across. The ladies most bravely
climbed from branch to branch. A heavy thunder
storm closed the day.
The next day, after about three hours' marching,
we came upon a very saddening sight. In an old
encampment were three men belonging to a Govern
ment caravan which had passed us two or three days
before on its way to the coast. These men were
entirely without food, and were simply waiting in the
wilderness for death. For four days they had been
without food. It was indeed a terrible sight. Of
course we relieved them by giving them food — first,
however, administering hot bovril. Of flour we gave
them sufficient to last them until we could send help
from the Eldoma Ravine, our next halting-place.
On arriving at the Ravine startling tidings greeted
us. A man, wounded and gashed in a terrible fashion,
had just reached the station. He belonged to a small
caravan which we had sent on ahead, before leaving
the coast, with mails and barter goods for the purchase
of food in Kavirondo, His story at first we were slow
to credit. It was to the effect that when near the
Guaso Masa, a river on the borders of Kavirondo,
he and his party were attacked by the Wanandi, and
almost the whole caravan, consisting of thirty men,
massacred. What was to be done ? Was the man telhng the
truth ? Was he a runaway porter who had met with

20 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
his injuries from hostile iiiiti\'es whom he had met on
the roiid. These were questions anxiously discussed
among ourselves. The only unanimous conclusion we
arrived at was to continue our journey, and as we drew
near the Nandi country to adopt special precautions in
the daily march, and in posting night sentries. And
so we went forward, and the summit of Man, 8700 feet
above sea level, was reached. Here the story of the
disaster to our advance caravan was confirmed. Shortly
after reaching camp a caravan from Kavirondo came
in. At once we called the leader and questioned him,
and found to our great sorrow that the story of the
slaughter at the Guaso Masa was only too true. It
came out that the party were asleep in camp, when at
about two o'clock in the morning about 200 Wanandi
attacked them. Six men apparently were able to make
their escape, the rest were destroyed. Among other
things recovered by our informants and given into my
hands was a packet of my own letters, written nearly
three months previously, which was found lying upon
the bank of the Guaso Masa.
That the road in front was unsafe was absolutely
certain. Not only had our own caravan been destroyed,
but a trader named West, and several of his men, had
been murdered. Extreme care would have to be taken
in keeping our men together, and in keeping guard at
night, when passing through the Nandi country. Our
chief trust, however, was in the great " Keeper of Israel,
who neither slumbereth nor sleepeth," and who " en-
campeth round about them that fear Him and delivereth
them." On starting from the Eldoma Ravine each porter
was supplied with eleven days' provision. At the end
of our seventh day's march, however, we found many
of them absolutely without food. What had become

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wm^i^^^M^
nlill
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^v-^'^^^i' ;l '-th
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H.VIMBOO l''OKKSr ON MM'
Chap, 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 21
of it ? Some, rather than carry it, had thrown a
certain proportion away. Others had eaten eleven
days' supply in seven days. The result was semi-
starvation. We had kept in reserve a small quantity
of flour in case of emergency, and this was doled out
in driblets as need arose. However, we very nearly
had a fatal case of collapse. After our arrival in camp
at a place called Ziwani (or place of the swamp) we
were told that two men had failed to reach camp and
were some miles in the rear. They had not been
carrying loads for several days on account of their
weakly condition. Two donkeys were sent out to
meet them. Just after dark the men were brought
into camp. One was a good deal exhausted with cold
and hunger, but the other, who had been carried in, was
almost at the point of death. He was insensible and
very cold. His limbs were stiff and his teeth clenched.
Dr. Rattray began at once to apply restoratives. He
was laid by the fire and well rubbed. Then a small
quantity of brandy was poured down his throat, his
jaws being forcibly separated. As he showed but few
signs of reviving, a hot bath was prepared and he was
placed in it. This evidently was of great use. The
hmbs relaxed their rigidity. He was taken out of the
bath, dried, and wrapped in a blanket. Then hot milk
and brandy were again administered. Gradually he
came round, and in two or three hours was out of danger
and took food freely. Nothing but Dr. Rattray's
extreme care and unremitting exertions could have
saved him.
All this while we had heard nothing of the hostile
Wanandi, nor had anything been seen of them. We
regularly, however, posted our sentries at night, and
whenever practicable built a thorn boma round our
camp. On arriving at the Guaso Masa a strange sight

22 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
met our gaze. It was the scene of the massacre of our
advance caravan. Here and there, httering the ground
in every direction, were books, letters, fragments of
boxes, and, strangest of all, fragments of plaster images.
" The books " (I am quoting from the account in my
journal written at the time) " were mostly Luganda
New Testaments, Here and there were tracts of
various kinds (Protestant) and broken crucifixes. It
was strange indeed to see a tract on ' Christ our
Righteousness ' lying on the ground side by side with
a broken plaster image. These crucifixes and images
were evidently the property of the Roman Cathohc
Mission under Bishop Hanlon, which is some three or
four weeks in front of us on the road. The Bishop
was obhged to leave several men and loads behind
him at the Eldoma Ravine. These came on with our
advance caravan and shared its fate. Certainly the
sight at the devastated encampment was a striking
object lesson as to the methods of the two Missions —
the Church of England and the Church of Rome.
Here, copies of God's Word, expositions of Christian
teaching ; there, plaster images and scraps of pictures
of impossible saints. In the midst of these reflections,
induced by the sight of the ruin aroimd, one could not
be forgetful of the cruel fate of the poor men who
carried these loads. It was easy to see how they came
by their death. In front of the encampment, and very
close to it, was a swiftly flowing river — the Guaso Masa.
To the rear the ground rose very abruptly, and then
sank into a gentle depression. On the right and left
flanks was a more or less open bush. It was night.
The men, wearied with heavy burdens and a long day's
march, lay down to rest. No watch was kept, for all
were equaUy tired. It was dark, for the moon would
not rise tiU late. GraduaUy the enemy, who had watched

Chap. 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 23
the movements of their victims aU day, crept nearer
and nearer, until they were gathered in the httle de
pression above the encampment. At a given signal
the rush was made, and the spear and sime did their
fatal work. There was no doubt a scream here and
there, a rush of a few to the river bank, a plunge, and
the swiftly flowing current carried one and another
with the torrent rushing down into the broad expanse
of the Victoria Nyanza. Loads were quickly broken
open, what was considered of value — beads, for in
stance — carried off, and the scene was left. The morning
at length broke, and after a while one frightened face
and then another showed itself at the edge of the
bush. These were the sole survivors of the party, those
who had lain down to rest the night before — six
wretched human beings, some with spear wounds and
some half-dazed with club blows, aU hungry and weary,
and four or five days from any help."
Such was one oiE many similar scenes enacted from
time to time in the dark Continent of Africa, and which
nothing but the Gospel of Christ can reaUy put an end
to. It was said, though I cannot vouch for the truth
of the story, that this act of hostility on the part of
the Wanandi was due to the harsh and unjust treatment
accorded to them by a trader. Whether this be so or
not, the remedy is the same — the conversion to God of
those who know Him not. ' 1
Soon after leaving the Guaso Masa, we entered upon
the inhabited country of Kabras, and here we experi
enced one of the most terrible thunderstorms which it
has ever been my lot to witness. Many signs told of
its coining. I warned my party, and begged them to
hasten on to camp with as httle delay as possible. I
then set off at fuU speed, and managed to reach our
destination before the storm broke. The crashes of

24 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV-
thunder were simply appaUing, and the lightning
seemed all around. Then came torrents of rain, with
hailstones of enormous size. In the midst of the
tempest the ladies, and other members of our Mission
party, arrived drenched to the skin. Happily, being
sheltered in a grass hut, I was able to keep a fire burning
and to supply the belated travellers with hot tea, which
reduced the risk of a chiU to a minimum. The rain
was faihng in such torrents that the watercourses soon
became rushing rivers. Half of our caravan, that in
the rear, was cut off, and unable till the next morning
to come into camp. Several of the men who attempted
to cross the flooded stream were carried off their feet
and their loads lost. During the night eleven men died
from exposure ; several of them, however, had been on
the sick list for some time, and more than one was
hopelessly ill. It was indeed a terrible storm, and the
like of it I hope never to see again.
We were now in the midst of an abundance of food,
and our men simply reveUed in the supphes that were
daily brought into camp for sale. But, before arriving
at Mumia's, we met a number of our Baganda friends,
Simei Kakungulu, Sira the Mulondo, Stefano, and
others had been sent down by the Administration in
Uganda to assist the local authorities in bringing the
rebelhous Wakitosh back to their allegiance. The
object of their expedition had now been achieved, and
they were about to start on their way back to Uganda,
Their delight in meeting us was unbounded. In joyful
tones they told us of the expectation that had been
aroused among the Baganda by our coming, and
especially by the coming of the ladies. During our
onward journey we met Simei and his friends almost
daily, and it was a great joy to welcome them to our
tents, and to talk over with them the prospects

THE VICTORIA NYANZA AT LUBA'S

Chap. 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 25
of the work in Uganda as well as in the regions
beyond. On September 16th we arrived at Mumia's, where we
indulged in a two days' rest. Then came the passage
of the Nzoia River, which occupied two days, and on
we went towards Busoga, which was entered on Sep
tember 22nd. Two days later found us at Mutanda's —
the village of the eldest son of Wakoh, late paramount
chief of Busoga. On the 29th the passage of Napoleon
Gulf was successfuUy accomphshed, and to our great
joy we found ourselves on the shores of Uganda. From
Lugumba's to Mondo's, and then on to Ngogwe, was
an easy journey. Here we were welcomed by Black-
ledge and a large body of native Christians.
Of this last stage of our journey I now quote from
a record made shortly after its conclusion, and while
the vivid impression made by its recent moving incidents
were stUl fresh in my mind.
" The welcome accorded to the ladies by the Baganda
women at Ngogwe was well-nigh overwhelming. They
ran along by the sides of the ladies' chairs grasping, their
hands and uttering all manner of joyful and loving
greetings. As we drew near to the Mission station
the crowd increased, so that it was difficult to get
along. When the ladies ahghted to climb the hiU on
which the Mission-house stood, they were embraced
by the Baganda women in aU the fulness of their
hearts' joy.
" A thanksgiving service was hastUy arranged in
the church. It was felt that as the Christians had
been praying so constantly and earnestly on our behalf
an opportunity should be given to them to thank God
for so gracious an answer to their prayers. At two
o'clock some six hundred people were gathered in
church. A shortened form of service was read, two

26 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
or three hymns were sung, and then I spoke to the
people from the text, ' Whatsoever ye shaU ask in My
name, that wUl I do, that the Father may be glorifi.ed
in the Son ' (S, John xiv, 13), A few prayers foUowed
and the service closed. It was a very happy time
indeed that we spent at Ngogwe, Very sorry indeed
did I feel that I was unable to leave two at least of
the ladies to work there, I earnestly hope that from
the next party two or three ladies may be avaUable
for work at Ngogwe,
" God has greatly blessed BaskerviUe's work at this
place. Two years ago there was absolutely no con
gregation at aU. Now, as I have said, there is one of
some six hundred souls, and three hundred are at the
present moment waiting for Confirmation.
" Ngogwe was the home and scene of the work of the
first deacon of the Church of Uganda to enter into his
rest. This man, Nikodemo Sebwato (the Sekibobo),
was the chief of Kyagwe and hved close to the Mission.
His influence with his people was remarkable. It may
be truly said of him, ' He was a good man.' He hes
buried just outside the west end of the church. On
the head-board which records his name and office,
' Sekibobo and Deacon of the Church,' is the reference
to the text, ' Blessed are the dead which die in the
Lord.' " At Ngogwe, Mika Sematunba met me with a letter
from the King, bidding me welcome to his country and
sending his greetings to the ladies. During the time
we were journeying through Uganda, letters were con-
tinuaUy arriving from one native friend and another.
In aU of them were expressions of great joy at the
prospect of Enghsh ladies coining to work among
the women of Uganda. The Kmg's letter was as
foUows : —

Chap. 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 27
' Mengo, Sept. 29, 1895.
' To THE Bishop.
' My greetings. After greeting you I rejoice
very much to hear that you are coming, and that now
you have arrived in my country together with the
ladies, because even from my childhood I have never
seen Enghsh ladies.
' The day on which you reach Mengo write to me
that I may know.
' Having greeted you my friend very much, I say
fareweU. My greetings to the ladies and all the
Europeans who are with you. — I am your friend,
(Signed) Mwanga, King of Uganda.'
" The foUowing is a translation of a letter received
from SamwUi Mukasa : —
'To My Dear Friend, Bishop Tucker.
' My friend and my brother in the brotherhood
above aU others when we are joined in Christ Jesus
our Saviour, I here now greet you very much indeed,
I first praise Jehovah our God who brought you safely
from Europe, and kept you and brought you here safely
to us this third time. You have done a wonderful
thing for us in bringing up ladies. We did not think
they wotdd come here at this time. We thought
perhaps ladies wUl come at some future time. I also
praise and thank Jehovah our God for keeping you
from sickness thus on the road. Yes ! Our Lord was
graciously pleased to aUow you to work for Him in
Uganda. And we rejoice and go on thanking Him
because He is gracious to us every day. And my wife
Rebecca greets you very much. She rejoices with me
for your sake, and I, your slave, your son, your brother

28 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
who loves you, I beseech you not to refuse me. I want
you very much to come and have tea in my house,
although I have nothing with which to rejoice you.
Because the house of your servant is on the road it will
not take you much out of the way. It is a short way
off (fifty yards). I beg of you not to make me unhappy.
Consent to my request together with the maid-servants
of Jehovah. — WeU I beseech you to pity me.
' I am Samwih Mukasa, who loves Jesus.'
" It was evident from these and other letters which
I received from Mengo that the deepest interest was
aroused at the prospect of the coming of the Enghsh
ladies. It was evidently regarded by all parties as a
great event.
" On reaching Kisalosalo, which is seven mUes from
Mengo, we were met by Roscoe, MUlar, Lloyd, and
Leakey. It was a great pleasure to see them, and
especiaUy to see them all looking so well. Of course
there was a great deal to talk about, the main topic
being the wonderful progress in the work, and the open
ings presenting themselves on every hand.
" On the foUowing morning, October 4th, we com
menced our last march at 6.30 a.m. Detachments of
people continuaUy met us on the road untU the pro
cession assumed very large proportions. At the house
of our friend, Samwih Mukasa, we halted for the refresh
ment to which he had so kindly invited us. Here we
were met by Archdeacon Walker, Pike, and Sugden,
A great many of our native brethren from Mengo also
met us here — Henry Wright Duta, Andereya, Henry
Mukasa, and a host of others. The dehght of the
people was extraordinary. The ladies were embraced
and hugged by Samwih's wife and sister, and also by
many other Baganda women who had assembled at

Chap. 26] FROM OCEAN TO LAKE 29
Samwili's house to welcome them. After resting for
abqut an hour the journey was resumed. Large
numbers of people met us continually, and as we drew
near to the Kyagwe market, we found every place of
vantage from which a good view of us could be got
occupied by interested spectators— Mohammedan and
heathen as well as Christian, both Protestant and
Roman Catholic. The mass of the people was now so
great that it was difficult to get along. The Katikiro,
who had just met us on his white horse, dismounted,
and, fearing lest I should be trampled under foot by
the thronging crowd, led me by the hand. As we
passed along under the hiU of Namirembe in fuU view
of Kampala — the Government fort — the officer in
charge, Mr. G. Wilson, most courteously dipped the
flag as a salutation. Still the crowd increased until
the atmosphere about me was almost suffocating and
the perspiration most profuse. It was a wonderful
sight, never to be forgotten, as we reached the Mission
compound. Its picturesqueness goes without saying.
When Baganda in white dresses and red bark cloth
were mingled with Basoga in their more sombre gar
ments, and Sudanesi^ in their varied costumes, under a
tropical sun undimmed by a cloud, the result must be
striking in the extreme. I saw great crowds come
together when Sir Gerald Portal entered Mengo, but
they were nothing to the crowds which welcomed
the first Enghsh ladies to set foot in the capital of
Uganda. " Our long march was over, and it was with deep
thankfulness and praise to God for all His many mercies
to us on the road, that we entered the hospitable houses
of our brethren of the Mission and — rested."
Two days later — Sunday, October 6th — some 6000
souls came together in (and outside) the Cathedral,

30 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
when thanks were offered to Almighty God for His
great preserving love to us. I preached from the text,
" In the Lord put I my trust " (Ps. xi. 1). Nearly
three hundred Communicants partook of the Sacrament
of the Lord's Supper. It was a wonderful service —
a fitting close to a wonderful journey.

CHAPTER XXVII
A NEW ERA IX THE CHURCH'S HISTORY
' Good, the more communicated,
The more abundant grows.' J. MiLTOir.
That a new era had dawned upon the Church in
Uganda was evident even to the most casual observer.
Men and women in their thousands were coming forward
for instruction. Candidates for Baptism or Confirma
tion daUy thronged the Mission-houses in the hope of
having their names enroUed. Young men in large
and ever-increasing numbers were offering themselves
as evangelists or teachers. Books, mainly scriptures,
were selling like wUdfire. On every side churches and
reading-houses were springing up, and were being
crowded daily by eager seekers after the Truth.
It was evident that a force supernatural in its opera
tion and might was at work, teUing on aU with whom
it came in contact. What that force was has already
been suggested. The Spirit of God was moving in
the hearts of men. The outward manifestation of
this fact was apparent to every worker in the field.
It could not be hidden. Whence this eagerness in
seeking instruction, this earnestness in casting away
the works of darkness, this ready abandonment of the
practices of an ancient and elaborate superstition,
this longing desire to be arrayed in the garments
of salvation — the adornment of the Graces of the

31

32 lU^VND.'V AND KAST AKIIICA [Hook W.
(^lirisliaii life. There was hul. oiu> auswtM' lo lli(>
queslioii. ' TluM'c i.s a. I'enltHHi.stiil l?ri-ii(h,
'riio SpiriCs gnuMOUN iIowim- ;
Ami souls iipniisiHl from .sin mid tle.'ilh
.\i'i> qiiioluMUHl by His Power."
And SO cheered jiiid suslaiiied by Ihe eoiivielioii llial,
as in the lirnt days mo now, (he Master iliiiisell' wan
working with His servants and " eonruniing the word
with signs following," one a.})|)lied oneself to the l-ask
of setting in order " the alTairs of the daily growing
Church,'' The year 1895 had witnessed a large increase in the
staff of the Mission, The [uirty, eonsisting of Lloyd,
Lcwin, and Bla-eklcdge, under the lea(lerslii|) of the
Rev, A. J. Pike, to whom on November 7Mi 1 had said
"good-bye " in Usagara, arrived in Uganda, at the end
of February 1895, Th(>y lia,d been ilelayed in their
journey by a heavy sea of troubles. The fainine in
Unyamwezi and Ugogo had eost. thein the lives of nearly
a hundred of their porters. Sickness luul overtaken
several nienibers of the parly, and it. was only after
five weary niontlis of struggle with diiruuilty and
distress that they were able to begin their niissioiia.ry
work in Uganda. My own [)a,rty brought up tiie
miniber of J<]uropea,n workers to twenty-tJiree. At the
beginning of the year there were but eleven men in
tho held and no ladies. Of the latter tliiM'e were
now five.
The distribution of this new force was the lirst work
taken in hand. New stations W(M'e opened ai Ga.ya7;a.
a very |)opulous centre some twelves mil(\s from Mengo,
in the Province of Kya.dondo ; at Waiuleia, the capital
of Bulemez-i ; at Kina,kulya, in North Singo ; at Koki,
to the south-west of Hudii ; at Bukasa, one of the

Chap. 27] A NEW ERA 33
largest islands of the Sese group ; and at Miro's, in
Busoga. Thus, instead of there being only four
stations in the whole field north of the Lake, as at
tho beginning of 1895, the close of the year saw ten
important centres occupied.
In Mengo itself a great change had come over the
prospects of the work. In October 1894 the old
cathedral had been blown down in the midst of a great
storm. This misfortune, as it seemed to us, in the
good providence of God was turned into a means of
great blessing to all the districts round the capital.
As tliere was now no great central church for the
people from these districts to meet together in for
worship, it was determined to build a small church in
each district. The result was that at the end of 1895,
instead of there being the one great central church,
there were no fewer than three-and-twenty places of
worship, served from the cathedral itself, which had
by that time been rebuilt. The evangehsts under
training in Mengo were given the work of visiting these
churches in regular rotation, Sunday by Sunday.
They were responsible for the conduct of the service
and for the Gospel address. A weekly hst was made
out and hung up in the vestry, so that each man might
know where his Sunday duty lay.
The result of this distribution of force was soon seen
in the increased numbers offering themselves both for
Baptism and Confirmation. Of the 1200 candidates
confirmed within four months of my arrival in the
country, no fewer than 576 were presented to me in
Mengo. These Confirmation services were times of deep joy,
mingled with fervent prayer and praise. We saw
before us such evident tokens of the power of God's
grace as stirred to their depths both heart and mind.
II c

34 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV,
Here on one of these solemn occasions were two men,
each of whom was a victim of the old-time cruelty now
passed away for ever. Both were bhnd, their eyes
having been destroyed by order of King Mutesa, and
one was without ears or nostrUs — they had been cut
off by the same cruel tyrant for some trivial offence
or other.
One of these bhnd men was a musician in the service
of the Mukwenda (one of the greatest chiefs in the
country), who had been excommunicated for grievous
sin. He was invited by his master to eat with him.
" No ! " was the reply. " I wiU play for you because I
am your servant, but eat with you I will not, so long
as you are excommunicated and continue in your
sins."
iv The sunshine of the Church's prosperity was soon,
however, to be shadowed by heavy clouds of adversity.
On November the 26th teachers came in from Toro
and told us sad news of the disturbed state of the
country and the practical break-up of our work there.
The Government officer in charge, we were told, had
taken up an attitude of great hostihty to the king
and chiefs. The former had been put into the chain
gang and several of the latter had been flogged. The
Sudanese soldiers had destroyed the books and pro
perty of several of our teachers, one of whom (Apolo
Kivebulaya) had been sent as a prisoner to Mengo,
Congregations had been scattered, and the work was
almost at a standstill. Such were the reports brought
to us by teachers who declared that they were eye
witnesses of the events which they narrated.
It was a sad story and needed a good deal of sifting.
The Commissioner was absolutely without information,
but promised to send at once to Toro an urgent letter
of inquiry. For a month or six weeks the matter

Chap. 27] A NEW ERA 35
must rest. In the meanwhUe I decided to pay a
visit to Kyagwe, Busoga, and possibly the Buvuma
islands. Starting on December 12th I made my way to Ngogwe,
where I spent nine days in preparing both for a Con
firmation and an Ordination. The former took place
on the 20th, when 161 men and 91 women were pre
sented to me and received the laying on of hands.
The latter service was held on the day foUowing (St,
Thomas's Day), when Rowling and Blackledge received
Priests' Orders.
On the 23rd I started for Luba's in Busoga, which I
reached on Christmas Eve, feehng very hot and tired.
A congregation of some seventy souls came together
in the little wattle and daub church on the morrow
for the worship of God. Of these some fifteen were
communicants. The work in Busoga, it was evident, would be a very
difficult one. The chiefs were nearly all in opposition
to us, and persecution more or less was the lot of any
who made any open profession of Christianity. How
ever, I found both Rowhng and his coUeague, Crabtree,
fuU of heart and hope, and devoted to their work.
On Friday the 27th I started with the latter for the
island of Bugaya. A large canoe with some twenty
paddlers had been procured, and good progress was
made during the early hours of the day. But at about
eleven o'clock a strong head wind set in, against which
it was almost impossible to make any substantial
progress. We therefore put in for shelter imder the
lee of a rocky headland of the great island of Buvuma.
It was evident that we must spend the night there,
notwithstanding the fact that the islanders were said
to be dangerously hostUe. A number of them came
to see us, and certainly they were most kind and

36 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV,
friendly, nor did they from first to last show the least
disposition to treat us otherwise than as guests, to
whom it was their duty to be hospitable.
The next day we reached our destination. Ap
parently we were expected, for a large body of natives,
with the chief Muzito at their head, were standing on
the shore ready to welcome us, which they did most
warmly. Our loads were soon carried up to the chief's
enclosure, near which was our camp. After arranging
with Sira and Samwih, the two Baganda evangelists,
for the services of the foUowing day, we both took stock
of our surroundings.
It was a weird spot in which we found ourselves.
The island of Bugaya is the most seaward of the
Buvuma group, and thrusts southward its rugged head
lands in wUd and picturesque confusion. The supersti
tion of the islanders shows itself in the shrines with
which many of these rocky headlands are crowned,
and which are evidently dedicated to the Spirits of
the Lake, whom it was felt necessary to propitiate
by sacrifices of hviag creatures, often in the old days
human beings.
The women in their grass dresses, and with wooden
buttons in their lower hp, were certainly quaint-looking
figures. The men were not so hideously disfigured,
and whether in skin or barkcloth reminded us of the
Basoga, to whom I beheve they are doubtless akin.
To our great surprise, on Sunday morning there came
together in the very primitive church that these people
had built for the worship of God no fewer than 220
souls. Such a sight was indeed a wonderful testi
mony to the power of God's grace. Only once before
had this remote island been visited by a European
missionary, and then only for a short whUe ; and yet
in the hands of Ul-taught Baganda evangehsts the

CiiAi-. 27] A NI5W KHA 37
[leopie lia,(i a,c.(piircd not merely a knowledge of all
the outward form a,n(l ceremony of a, (Jhiirch service,
but a,n iritellect,ual a,nd luNU't knowleilge of the truth
wliicli led us to nia,rvel a,s wo catechised them both
at t,he morning and aitenioon services. About a
hundred juid forty ha,(l lea,rnt, to rea,d tJio Ma,teka,, a,s
tlie first re.'M ling-book was called, and t,eii otlu^rs were
(<ospel readers. Wo entreated them to cfintinue in
the fa,itli, and [iromised t,o render them all the assist;-
a,nce which from time to time t,hey might ikhhI in tho
way of instruction.
It was with real regret t/hat on Monday morning wo
said good-bye to this little company of souls stretch
ing out their hands (ilod-ward. Wo were bound for
Kajaya/s in Busoga,, and as u !ong day's paddk; lay
before us, a,n early start was nccH'ssaTy. " Mulcaina abere
namwo" — " The Lord bo with you," my farewell word to
them, warmly responded to with shouts of " nawo " —
" a.nd with you," and so wo st,art,ed on our way to th(>,
mainland. Of course the usual headwind sot in, and
our progress was miserably slow. Hour after hour
passed by and still we were far from land. The sun
re.a,che(l its zenith arid then gra.dually (hu'lined. It
afiproaclied its sotting just a,s land hove in sight. Tho
moon rose and wo wore t.lius enabled to continue our
journey. Occasionally tJie blowing of hippos, not far
away, startled our weary [laddlers, and like an electric
shock energised them int-.o des|)erato efforts to g(>t beyond
the roach of those dreaded monsters of the Nya,nza,.
At lengtli tho f)rcs(Mice of reeds and rushes in tlu^ wa.ter
around told ns that land was near. Slowly wo pushed
our way through a, dense mass of tall reeds, the home
of myriads of mosquitoes, and found ourselves on a,
low sandy d(>sert-like stretch of shore. Quickly dis-
we tried to discover our whereabouts.

38 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV,
Advancing some little distance inland I discovered,
dimly visible in the haze which hung over the scene,
two ghost-hke figures. I shouted to them, " Muje
banange " — " Come here, my friends ; " but no ! in a
moment they were gone. Then two of my serving-boys,
who had penetrated some distance further, came and
reported that a plantation of bananas was visible not
far away, and that if I would foUow them they would
soon lead me to some house or other. This seemed
hopeful, and at once we started on our quest. We soon
got into a footpath which led us right for the planta
tion. Plunging into it we tramped on in semi-darkness,
guided most unerringly by our boys. In a httle while
we emerged into a clearing, and sure enough there was
a house. We went to the door and shouted. No
answer. Again and again we shouted, and begged the
occupants to open to us or to teU us where we were.
But still no answer. Then aU at once, as we waited
for some reply, there came to us this sad and solemn
question, " Are you spirits or are you men ? " What
a horribly significant question was this. It was not
merely the very natural question which any man
might ask who was unexpectedly disturbed by such
night visitors, but it revealed a condition of mind and
soul which is characteristic of the whole heathen popu
lation in Central Africa. Milhons of human souls in
these dark regions live in perpetual fear of evil spirits.
Morning, noon, and night, hfe for them is a bondage
to this dread. How to propitiate their anger, how
to ward off any evil that might come to them, is the
daUy thought which occupies the mind of these poor
creatures. Charms, medicine, sacrifices, in fact every
device which human ingenuity can suggest, is employed
in the vain effort to find peace and safety. And so
men have hved through the ages enslaved in a bondage

THE CHURCH ON THE ISLAND OF BUKASA, VICTORIA NYANZA— I r will Sk.\t 1>.-|(I Pkk.son;,

Chap. 27] A NEW ERA 39
little better than a hvmg death. The day of their
liberation, however, had already dawned, and for those
poor souls in Busoga the messengers of a Saviour's love
dehvering them from the bondage of sin and Satan
already stood at their doors. " Banange temutya ! " —
" My friends, fear not," was our answer. " We are
Europeans, men hke yourselves. We have lost our
way and need your help." In a httle while we heard
whisperings and movements within, and then the door
was unfastened. Slowly and fearfuUy a man came
into view. He was trembhng visibly from head to
foot. However, we took him by the hand and greeted
him warmly, thanking him for coming to our help.
Reassuringly, and even tenderly, we spoke to him,
explained to him our situation, and asked him kindly
to guide us to the chief's enclosure, which he told us was
not far away. This he undertook to do, and in less
than ten minutes we found ourselves in comfortable
quarters. It was after midnight, however, before we
were able to retire to rest.
The next day letters reached me from Uganda, telhng
me the startling news of the arrival of Kasagama, the
king of Toro, in Mengo, and begging me to return
thither with aU speed. It seems that Kasagama,
wearied out with what he considered to be the imjust
treatment of the officer in charge of Toro, had reaUy
run away, and escaping with a few foUowers had made
his way to Mengo with the object of seeking justice at
the hands of the Commissioner. Of course he was not
without hope that I would be able to advocate his cause.
It was evident that I must return to Uganda at once.
Hastily striking camp we made our way back to Luba's,
where we arrived on Wednesday, January 1st, 1896.
The next day I crossed the lake to Lugumba's and
then went on to Ngogwe, where I rested for the Sunday.

40 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
Two days later I was once more at Mengo. Kasagama
at once came to see me. The story that he told me of
wrongdoing, cruelty, and oppression was such that I
felt that there must be misunderstanding somewhere,
and therefore begged the Commissioner to do his utmost
to sift it to the bottom. This. he promised to do, and
the officer in charge of the Toro District was called in
to aid in the investigation. He, it seems, had serious
complaints to bring against the king. These resolved
themselves into three main charges — slavery, the illicit
running of gunpowder, and bribing the Government
interpreter. In the presence of myself and the Archdeacon, the
Commissioner, with the utmost patience, investigated
these charges. The latter was taken first and broke
down in the most dramatic fashion, the chief witness
for the prosecution in his evidence immensely
strengthening the case for the defence. The second
charge broke down in exactly the same marmer. In
fact, so complete was the exoneration of the king
that the Commissioner felt it useless to continue the
inquiry. The officer administering Toro, whose conduct of
affairs was thus impugned by the issue of the inquiry,
acknowledged that through his ignorance of the language
he had been imposed upon by his interpreter, Apolo
Kivebulaya, who had been sent as a prisoner to Mengo,
was released and compensation given to him.
Our pleasure at the acquittal of the Idng and the
vindication of the action of our teachers in Toro was
naturally very great. Kasagama, who since his arrival
in Mengo had been under regular Christian instruction,
was baptized in the presence of the Commissioner on
Sunday, March 15th, taking the name of Daudi (David),
He shortly after returned to his own country, having

Chap, 27] A NEW ERA 41
exacted from me a promise of paying him a speedy
visit. While these events, so fraught with issues bearing
upon the future of the Church, were happening in the
capital, the work of instruction in the country districts
was going steadily forward, Fisher sent in the most
cheering accounts from North Singo, teUing of visits
paid to the Bunyoro border, and of the Gospel being
preached to hundreds of Banyoro peasants who had
settled down in the neighbourhood of Kinakulya.
Lloyd and Leakey were hard at work at Gayaza, in
the province of Kyadondo, whilst Gordon was engaged
in organising the evangehsation of the islands of the
Lake. Early in January I took advantage of the latter 's
presence in Mengo on a brief visit to arrange an expedi
tion to the islands.
There is always a great charm about these Lake
journeys. The fresh breezes — the dancing waters —
the bird hfe, so free and full— the wonderful variety
in the scenery — ^rocks and woods — rushes, reeds, and
all manner of creeping plants — the blowing of hippos
and the sleeping, shding crocodiles — are all sights and
sounds dehghtfuUy refreshing both to mind and body.
It was therefore with a very gladsome mind that I
started out to visit the islands on Thursday, January
16th. I camped at Gaba, on the Lake shore, and the
next day met Gordon at Kazi and went on with him
to the great island of Kome, where a very promising
work was in progress. Four churches had been buUt
in various parts of the island, each one of which was a
centre of Christian teaching. So well had this work
prospered that a number of men and women were
awaiting examination with a view to baptism. But
no one came either to examine or to baptize. " Hope

42 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
deferred maketh the heart sick." They waited and
waited, apparently in vain. At last they made up
their minds that they would wait no longer. They
would see for themselves whether there was baptism
for them or not. A deputation therefore travelled
to Mengo to see the missionaries. They stated their
case, and of course were at once reassured. A letter
was written to Gordon asking him to visit Kome (which
he had not yet had an opportunity of doing), with a
view to baptizing those eager seekers after the truth.
Some of these very men were looking out for us on
our arrival and greeted us most joyfully. Baptisms, a
Confirmation service, and the disposal of a large number
of books, mostly Scriptures, fiUed up our time on Kome.
We then went on to Bukasa, visiting the island of Jana
on the way. At Bukasa we found a congregation of
some three hundred souls gathered together in the
church for the Confirmation service, at which some
fifty-five men and women received the laying on of
hands. From Bukasa we made our way to Busi,
sleeping on the island of Bufumira on the way.
The work in Busi we found to be of a most interest
ing character. The readers were mostly refugees from
the island of Sese, which had been handed over to the
Roman Cathohcs under the term of Sir Gerald Portal's
settlement. Five churches had been built, the central
one accommodating some five hundred worshippers.
There were probably a thousand readers on the island
at the time of which I am writing, Samwih Kam-
wakabi was the teacher in charge, and right earnestly
he was working. Some twenty-seven men and women
were presented to me for Confirmation, and all seemed
deeply in earnest.
On February 3rd I started on the return journey
to Mengo in a well-manned canoe. At first good

THE BISHOP ON A CONFIRMATION TOUR— A NIGHT ON VICTORIA NYANZA

Chai'. 27] A NEW ERA 43
progress was made, but towards noon the efforts of
our men slackened considerably, so that wo made but
little way, I warned the men of tho dangers of night
travelling on tho Lake, but without avaU. At sunset
they seemed to wake u[), but it was too late ; we were
yet three or four hours from our destination. More
than once hippos rose not far away, to tho great
alarm of every one. However, we managed to elude
thera by making a wide detour. Another very real
danger in travelling on the Lake near the shore at; night
was the existence of numerous half-submerged rocks,
to which it is necessary to give a wide berth. For
three hours we crept along, hardly knowing whither we
were going. At length came a shock and a sto])page.
We were on the rocks. Happily our speed at the time
was not great, and the bow of our canoe was strong.
An examination revealed the fact that beyond a
8f)lintered timber or two no harm had been done. Our
canoe was still sound. Much relieved we went on our
way, kcef)ing a sharp look-out. Soon hghts became
visible, telling us that Kazi was near. At about ten
o'clock, to my great relief, we reached our destination.
The next day I went on to Mengo, where I found aU
weU and the work in full swing.

CHAPTER XXVIII
IN JOURNEYINGS OFT
' The Lord shall preserve thy going out and thy coming in.'
— Psalm cxxi. 8.
The time had now come for the fuffihnent of my
promise to King Kasagama to pay Toro a visit. AU
the reports which periodically came in to us from
our native evangehsts told of a widespread desire for
Christian teaching. Little congregations of readers, we
were informed, were springing up in every direction.
Evidently a guiding hand was needed, a European
missionary in fact, for the supervision and organisation
of a work which, although stUl in its infancy, was vigor
ous and strong, and showed clear signs of a healthy
growth. Fisher of Kinakulya I knew was longing for direct
pioneer work; him, therefore, I invited to accompany
me, with a view to ultimately taking over the charge
of what gave every promise of becoming a work of
great importance.
Our preparations were soon made, and on March 30,
1896, we started on our journey. Owing to a diffi
culty in getting porters, my tent and bedding faUed
to put in an appearance at Sentema, our first camping
place. I was obhged, therefore, to sleep in a native
hut without bed or mosquito net. To say that I slept
is, I am afraid, only a euphemistic way of describing a
night of almost hideous horror — a night which was
one long fight with a countless multitude of mosquitoes
thirsting for one's blood. However, the longest night

Chap. 28] IN JOURNEYINGS OFT 45
has an end, and by six o'clock we were on our way
to the Mayanja, a river swamp in which aU feverish
symptoms were soon quenched in the water, which
was up to one's armpits. In due course Mitiana was
reached, where we spent Easter-tide and where a
Confirmation was held, when thirty-one men and ten
women received the laying on of hands. From Mitiana
we made our way to Kasaka, where I had another
Confirmation engagement. Travelhng by way of Lake
Wamala, we crossed to the island of Bagwe in a large
" dug-out." Here a smaU but interesting work I found
to be in progress. A tiny church had been built in
which daily a little company of behevers gathered
together for the worship of God. Having commended
them to Him, and the power of His Grace, we con
tinued our journey in the primitive craft which had
brought us to the island. A couple of hours' paddhng,
foUowed by half a mUe of wading through the waters
of the reedy margin of the Lake, brought us to the main
path to Kasaka, where we arrived some two hours later,
that is to say, a httle before sunset. A warm welcome
awaited us from the many readers out of the neigh
bouring gardens. Many of them had recently endured
much persecution for the sake of Christ.
' " Old Ndahke, the chief, an uncle of King Mwanga,
was a rank old heathen, quite one of the old school,
and hated Christianity with an intense hatred, and
strove with all his might to stamp it out. But he
found, as many greater and wiser than he have found,
that it is vain to fight against God. He might beat
and crueUy ill-treat his people for seeking after the
Truth — and some he beat nearly to death or scorched
with red-hot hoes — but still they came in increasing
numbers for instruction. He might burn down the
houses of the missionaries — and twice he had done

46 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
this — but new ones were buUt, and stiU the missionaries
taught aU who came to them. He might even seek
refuge on the islands of the great Lake from the sound
of the hated Name. But stUl even there, in " psalms
and hymns and spiritual songs" the praises of the
Redeemer were being sung. At last he gave up the
contest in despair. " It is no use," he declared,
" trying to get away from these Christians, for they
are everywhere."
" The fiercer the persecution the brighter the testi
mony " is the lesson which we learn from a study of
aU attempts down through the ages to stamp out
Christianity by violence. This indeed was the outcome
of the persecution at Kasaka. Nowhere in aU Uganda
were happier or brighter Christians to be found than
there. Nowhere was the spirit of unity more apparent
or the spirit of self-sacrifice more real.
It was with very sincere regret that I said good-bye
to those earnest souls after I had confirmed twenty-nine
of them and passed on my way to Kinakulya, where,
after a great deal of hUl climbing and wading through
innumerable swamps, we arrived on the evening of
April 11th. Darkness had set in, and walking in a
narrow footpath was anything but easy. HappUy our
friends at Kinakulya knew of our coining, and came
out with torches in large numbers to meet us. It
was with wUd shouts of welcome that they greeted us.
Their cries of "Nsanyuse" (I rejoice), "Nsanyuse,"
making the hills around echo and re-echo.
',"*;The greater part of a week was spent in this happy
sphere of work, during which some twenty-two souls
were baptized, and sixty-three confirmed. Kinakulya
was the centre of widespread missionary operations
reaching even to the border of Bunyoro. There were
some fifteen teachers at work, and evidently in the

Chap. 28] IN JOURNEYINGS OFT 47
not distant future a harvest of souls would be
reaped. From Kinakulya we made our way to Kijungute, and
from thence to Bukumi, in the most northern part of
the province of Bwekula. Here we were warned of
the difficulties of the road in front of us on the way
to Toro — " swamps and swoUen rivers," it was said,
" would surely stop us." The latter especiaUy were
dangerous, if not absolutely impassable. However,
we determined to proceed on our way, beheving that
with the difficulty we should find the means of meeting
it. Nor were we disappointed. Swamps there were
without end and unbridged. There was nothing for
it but to plunge into them and make the best of it.
The state of the rivers happily had been exaggerated,
and they were crossed without any special difficulty.
On Saturday, AprU 25th, we camped at Bufungu
for the Sunday in fuU view of the mountain range of
Ruwenzori. HappUy the atmosphere was clear (it was the rainy
season), and the great mass stood revealed in aU its
solemn grandeur. It was a vision of singTdar and
surpassing beauty. At times a veil of mist would pass
over the scene, and then as it hfted and cleared, first
one snow-clad peak and then another would come into
view, untU at length the whole range, ghttering and
sparkling in the glorious glowing hght of a tropical
sun, was once more entrancing us with its marveUous
beauty — a wonderful combination of graceful outhne
and deep, dark shadows, showing up in striking con
trast the majestic shoulders and the massive buttresses
of the mighty mountain, which as the sun dechned
lost much of the glare and ghtter of the earher hours
of the day, but yet tiU eventide continued to be
' Robed in softened Hght of orient state.'

48 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
On April 28th we reached Butiti. Here a great
disappointment awaited us. Instead of expectant
crowds trooping out to meet us, we found here and
there by the road-side a sullen-looking individual who
barely responded to our greeting of " Otyano " — " How
do you do." At the entrance to the chief's enclosure
there was a little group of men standing, in the centre
of which was one who was evidently the chief himself.
But no ! He was decorated with a Roman Cathohc
rosary, as were nearly all his followers. This surely
was not Yafeti Byakweyamba, the chief of Mwenge.
Our greetings over, the explanation came. Yafeti had
been called into Mengo to answer some charges which
had been made against him, and which he was able
later to disprove. The man Kagoro, a Roman Catholic,
whom we saw before us, had been appointed to take
his place. He had seized his opportunity, and nearly
all the Protestant readers had been driven out and
Roman Catholics had been put in their places. The
church in which, a year or two before, the congregation
was so large that when the pages of their books were
turned the sound was said to be as the rusthng of the
leaves in the tree-tops, had been burnt down. As can
well be imagined our stay at Butiti in those circum
stances was not a very happy one, and we gladly
packed up our things on the morning after our arrival
and took the road to our next camping place.
,|We were now quite close to the capital of Toro,
in fact only two and a half hours away. Ruwenzori
loomed dark and sombre in the distance. The weather
had changed. The bright sunny days of the earher
part of our journey had given place to heavy clouds
and roUing mists, whUe ever and anon a bright flash
of lightning and the reverberating crash of thunder
which foUowed told of a gathering storm. But the

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CiiAP. 28] IN J0URN1<:YIN(!S OFT 49
scetuMy had cha,iig(Hl as well as the weather. We were
now in n country distinctly volcanic. Crater hills were to
bo seen on every hand. The scored flanks of Ruwen
zori, now clearly visible, testified unmistakably to a
time, conipai'atively recent (geologically speaking), when
oven the great mountain itself was in eruption,
Tho news of our coming had preceded us, and as
we drew near to the goal of our journey numerous
messengers from tho Idng and the Namasole came to
meet us with letters of greeting. Then ensued that
endless running to and fro of men and boys with
messages of gladness, which is so pleasing and pic
turesque a characteristic of the etiquette of the
Baganda. At length we came to the foot of the hill
leading to the king's enclosure, where ensued a scene
of welcome which baffles description, shouts of cordial
greeting resounding on every side. The king was
sitting in his chair with a leopard skin at his feet, but
immediately upon our appearance he rose up and greeted
us with a warmth of welcome which it was impossible
to misunderstand. It was the welcome of a Christian
king to messengers of the King of kings. " Come,"
said ho, " lot us go into the church and thank God for
bringing you here in peace and safety," So saying
he hul the way into a large building hard by, which
luul been built by the natives themselves for the
worship of God. It was with fuU hearts that we joined
in this service of prayer and praise, which had been
arranged entii-ely by tho natives themselves. FuUy
five liundred souls were gathered together on that
never to be forgotten occasion when, for tho first time
in the history of Toro, Europeans and natives, the
white man and tho black, knelt together in the worship
of a common Saviour, mingling their voices in the
praises of the One true and Living God.

D

50 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
Barely seven years had passed by since Stanley had
made known to the outside world the existence of
the snow-clad mountain range of Ruwenzori, the
mountains of the moon. It is hardly too much to say,
therefore, that had he travelled from Kavalli to Nkole
by the east rather than by the west of the mountain,
he would have found that the Christian evangelist from
Uganda had preceded him, and that there were even
then those in the country who knew Christ as their God
and Saviour. This would probably have given him as
much pleasure as the discovery of the mountain itself.
How had Christianity found its way to Toro ? It
was in this wise. Yafeti Byakweyamba, a cousin of
Kasagama, king of Toro, and a prince of the House of
Kabarega, king of Bunyoro, had been brought up in
Uganda — converted and baptized there. On becoming
chief of Mwenge, a county of Toro, he asked that
Christian teachers might be sent from Mengo to instruct
his people. This was done, and two men, Marko and
Petero, were sent as the two first missionary evangelists
to the Batoro. In 1891 Kasagama was appointed
by Capt. Lugard the overlord of the Toro Confederacy
— in other words, king of Toro. He was a reader but
not baptized until his journey to Mengo at the close
of 1895 brought him under regular Christian instruction.
This event, so fraught with momentous consequences
to the future of Toro, took place as already mentioned,
on March 15, 1896.
Thus it came about, in the good providence of God,
that on our arrival on April 30th we found ourselves
face to face with an incipient Christianity. A large
number of people— men, women, and chUdren — had
been taught its fundamentals, and were endeavouring,
it was quite clear, to order their lives according to its
precepts. The greatest need of the work, it was

Chap. 28] IN JOURNEYINGS OFT 51
evident, was supervision and organisation by a European
missionary. And so it was settled for Fisher to remain
as missionary in charge.
Our first work was to call together the teachers and
consult with them as to evangehsation of the country.
Seven districts were mapped out, and two evangelists
sent to each. Then the examination of candidates for
baptism was taken in hand, and on Friday, May 8th,
it was my joy to administer that holy rite to fifteen
adults — eight men and seven women ; among the latter
were the mother and the wife of the king. The former
took the name of " Vikitoria " and the latter that
of " Damari."
Vikitoria (the Namasole or Queen-mother) was, and
is stiU, for as I write she is yet alive, a woman of great
strength of character and of earnestness in her spiritual
life. She is always at the head of every good work,
and never grows weary of talking with aU who come
to her house of Christ and His love for all mankind.
One great difficulty that confronted us at this early
stage of our work in Toro was the poverty of the people,
and their consequent inabUity to buy our books. The
principle of giving away books we have never admitted.
What was to be done 1 We were in want of firewood.
We therefore offered to exchange books for wood.
Daily young men and boys went out to the forest in
search of that which would place them in possession
of the longed-for treasure — a gospel or mateka (first
reading-book). Towards evening quite a long pro
cession would be seen wending its way from the forest
to the grass hut in which we had taken up our quarters,
and there the wood was stacked. This went on until
the stack of firewood was bigger than our house, and
we were obhged to cry " Hold, enough ! "
A site for our Mission station was chosen, cleared,

52 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
and the work of building commenced. Enthusiastic
helpers came from all sides, and visible progress was
made from day to day.
On '"^mday. May 10th, a congregation of some four
hundred and fifty worshippers came together in church,
when I confirmed nine men, aU of whom had passed a
very satisfactory examination. The king was among
the number.
So far nothing has been said as to the social and
pohtical condition of the Batoro. The pohtical organisa
tion of Toro is not unhke that of Uganda. The feudal
system is found there, but its hold upon the people
is comparatively shght. The king has his Katikiro,
Mugema, Mukwenda, and Sekibobo, and other great
chiefs, but their authority is very hmited. Almost as
powerful a personage in Toro as the king is the Queen-
mother. She has a considerable voice in the counsels
of her son, who listens with no httle deference to her
advice. As a matter of fact aU women in Lunyoro-
speaking countries appear to have a higher social
standing than in Uganda. In the home they have a
controUing influence — an influence which, if made use
of by Christianity, should be a potent factor in the
elevation of the nation.
Physically the Batoro are not a strong race. The
poor quality of their food, which consists mainly of
sweet potatoes and a small grain called " bulo," is
mainly responsible for their weak physique. As a rule
a Mutoro porter is unable to carry more than 40 lbs.,
whilst a Muganda will be seen with a load of 60 lbs.
upon his head. They speak Lunyoro^ — a language akin
to Luganda, but even more widely spoken. The king
and many of the principal chiefs understand Luganda,
but outside that comparatively small circle it is practi
cally an unknown tongue.

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THE LAKE NEAR KABAROLE, TORO. RUWENZORI IN THE BACKGROUND
Chap. 28] IN JOURNEYINGS OFT 53
The dress of the people consists largely of skins.
Bark cloth is imported from Uganda, and so also is
cahco of a poor quahty from the coast. The use of
the latter, however, is confined almost entirely to the
weU-to-do classes. The absence of warm clothing
among the mass of the population, combined with
the changeable nature of the chmate, is the cause of
widespread disease, mainly of the respiratory organs.
Asthma and pneumonia are common complaints, the
latter being especiaUy fatal amongst growing children.
Such were the people amongst whom the Gospel of
Christ had now taken root, and although it was com
paratively but a tiny plant, still it was ahve and show
ing signs of vigorous growth. There could be no doubt
but that, with God's blessing upon the work, a rich
harvest of souls would in His own good time be reaped.
It was with a heart fuU of thankfulness and praise
to God for all that I had seen of His work of Grace
in the hearts of the people, for aU that He had per
mitted me to do for Him in this far-away land of Toro,
that I said farewell to the little band of Christian men
and women who had been gathered into the fold of
the Good Shepherd, and on Monday, May 11th, started
on my return journey.
It was necessary that I should travel rapidly, as I
had arranged for an Ordination Service in Mengo on
Trinity Sunday (May 31st), and there was a great
deal of preliminary work to be got through. I there
fore decided, after reaching Butiti, to journey south
wards in the hope of finding a shorter road than that
through Bunyoro, Nor was I disappointed in my
search. After leaving Mwenge, the swamps seemed
suddenly to come to an end, and we entered upon a
country of roUing hiUs and wonderfuUy fertile pasture
lands. WUd flowers abounded on every hand. The

54 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
air was bracing and invigorating, and one was able to
march for hours without fatigue. Passing through
the province of Kyaka I reached Kawanga, where I
spent very happily Sunday (May 17th). Two days
later I entered Uganda and came upon a swamp of
nearly half a mile in width. The water was generally
up to my waist, but at times I sank to the armpits.
The Katabalanga, for so it is named, is one of the
worst swamps in Uganda. However, I was none the
worse, and soon reached Kiganda, where I found a
beautifuUy built church, and a httle band of readers,
who were being instructed regularly by a teacher
named Danieri, who had been sent out by the Church
at Mitiana. '
After leaving Kiganda, a march of six and a half
hours brought me to Bujongolo. On the way I came
upon one of the largest herd of elephants which it has
ever been my lot to see in Africa. There were pro
bably two hundred of them in the herd. As they kept
quite close together, their movements were almost
like the undulations of the sea. There seemed to be
several old males who acted as whippers-in to the herd,
directing its movements. Shortly after passing them I
came upon what had once been a banana plantation.
It had been completely destroyed by this great herd.
So complete a wilderness had been made of the culti
vated land that it was with difficulty I could find my
onward path to Bujongolo.
On reaching Mitiana I held a Confirmation, when
forty-four candidates were presented to me by Mr.
Sugden, the missionary in charge, who had just returned
from an itineration in the northern part of his district.
And now came the last stage of my journey. Fifty
miles lay between me and Mengo. My boots were
worn out. What was to be done ? Sugden kindly

Chap. 28] IN JOURNEYINGS OFT 55
provided me with a hammer and a few tin tacks. With
these I managed to fasten, in a rough and ready fashion,
the parting soles, and therewith was obhged to rest
content. But anxiously I watched my straining boots
as I emerged from this or that swamp. Would they
hold together, or would the final parting of sole and
uppers obhge me to complete my journey bare-footed,
was the question which more than once presented itself
to my mind as I pursued my way to Mengo. Happily
the riveted tin tacks held, and despite the mud and
water of innumerable swamps, my decrepit old boots
landed me triumphantly at the door of my house on
Namirembe HiU on the evening of Saturday, May 23rd.
Thus my journey of some five hundred mUes of
travel to Toro and back, by way of Bunyoro, came to
an end, and I found myself free to prepare for the
event of Trinity Sunday — the Ordination of Priests
and Deacons, as well as the setting apart of some
twenty readers for their work as Lay Evangehsts.
Trinity Sunday dawned bright and clear. The hum
of voices at earhest dawn told of the thronging crowds
who were making their way to the House of God. At
seven o'clock the church was practicaUy fuU. At eight,
when the great drum boomed forth as the signal for
the commencement of the service, there were large
numbers sitting outside, unable to find room. The
Archdeacon, with Pike, Roscoe, and MiUar, officiated
at Morning Prayer and Holy Communion — the first
named, of course, presenting the candidates to me for
Ordination, whose names were as foUows : —
Priests. — H. W. Duta, Yonasani Kaidzi, Yairo Mutakyala.
Deacons. — Samwili Mukasa, Batolomayo Musoke, Nasanieri
Mudeka, Henry Mukasa, Nuwa Kikwabanga.
Of the service itself an ineffaceable impression has

56 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
been left upon my mind. There was the solemn still
ness which pervaded the vast structure of palm poles,
as the hushed throng of worshippers waited for the
opening sentences. There was the mighty volume of
sound which rolled forth in regular and measured
cadence as the responses were repeated in due order.
Then the hymns — not perhaps very musically rendered,
but every member of the congregation apparently
making a " joyful noise unto the Lord." And what
shaU I say of the " laying on of hands," and the gather
ing around the Table of the Lord of very nearly five
hundred communicants ? Truly the Lord was per
mitting us to see some of those " greater things " of
which He spoke when He gave to His disciples the
gracious promise, " Greater things than these shall he
do, because I go unto the Father."
The strain of the long service, as it went forward
for nearly five hours, began to tell upon me, and it
was evident after some three hours that I was in for
an attack of fever. It was with aching head, aching
back, and aching hmbs that I pronounced the bene
diction, and this most wonderful service was brought
to a conclusion shortly before one o'clock.
At the afternoon service twenty-two men, good and
true, received my hcense as Lay Evangelists.
Mr. Roscoe, who was to be my fellow-traveUer to the
coast, preached his fareweU sermon at this afternoon
service, and so this ever memorable day came to a
close. Of the ordained men it was arranged that H. W.
Duta should continue to work at the capital. His
help in translation work was invaluable. Batolomayo
was assigned to Kinakulya, Yairo to Jungo, Yonasani
to Ngogwe, Nasanieri to Bulemezi, Henry Mukasa to
the islands, whilst Samwili Mukasa was located with

Chap. 28] IN JOURNEYINGS OFT 57
Blackledge at Bukoba. Thus in the good providence
of God, with the increase of the flock a corresponding
increase of the pastorate was vouchsafed.
A last Confirmation service had been arranged for
Tuesday, June 2nd, mainly for the benefit of the people
of Ngogwe, of whom 150 came up to Mengo ; and with
those upon the spot 225 were presented to me. Many
of them had walked fifty and sixty miles, and some
even a hundred miles, in order to be confirmed.
This Confirmation service brought my programme
of work in Uganda to a close, and I at once prepared
for the journey down country. My preparations were
a good deal hindered by the crowds of people who,
from morning till night, thronged my house to say
" good-bye." However, on Thursday, June 4th, my
loads were ready, and hearing that the canoes had
arrived at Munyonyo a start was made. Mr. Roscoe
and Dr. Rattray were my traveUing companions.
Being anxious to visit Nasa, Mpwapwa, Kisokwe, and
Mamboya, I decided to travel by the old road through
German territory. The monotony of the voyage across
the Lake was broken by a visit to Bukasa, where Mr.
Gordon was at work, and where I was able to confirm
no fewer than seventy-two candidates, forty-nine of
them being men and the rest women. Here we were
detained nearly a week waiting for our fuU complement
of canoes to be made up. At length aU was ready,
and on Friday, June 12th, we said good-bye to Gordon
and our friends in Bukasa, and continued our voyage,
which was without incident until Nasa was reached
some twelve days later.
Here we found to our great sorrow that Nickisson,
who had traveUed with me up country in 1892, was
dangerously iU with blackwater fever. In spite of
all that Dr. Rattray could do for him he graduaUy

58 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV,
sank, and on Sunday, June 28th, passed to his rest.
The loss of Nickisson was a great blow to the work
at Nasa, Hubbard had recently left for furlough, and
Wright had only been a few months in the country,
and as yet was but a tyro in the language. It was
impossible to leave him alone. What was to be done ?
Most self-denyingly Dr. Rattray volunteered to stay
at Nasa until some permanent arrangement could be
made by the Mission in Uganda to supply the vacant
place. On St. Peter's Day I ordained Wright, giving
him Priest's Orders. A Confirmation later in the day,
of six men and three women, completed my work
at Nasa.
On July 1st, Roscoe and I started on our long tramp
of 700 miles to the coast. It was a weary journey,
the hot sun blazing upon our path, day after day,
until we neared Kisokwe, where we arrived on July 30th.
Then the weather had broken, and heavy storms of rain
were of daily occurrence. At Mpwapwa, on August 2nd,
I confirmed sixteen candidates, and on the foUowing
day we continued our journey. At night we were
encamped not far from Tubugwe, at a place which we
were told was infested with hons. We carefully warned
our men and boys not to go beyond the hmits of light
cast by the camp fires, and to see that the fires were
kept burning brightly aU night long. However, at
about nine o'clock, just as I was thinking of turning
in, a cry of alarm was raised. A hon, it was said,
had seized one of Mr. Roscoe's boys, named Simeoni,
within half a dozen yards of my tent. I seized my
rifie and fired into the pitchy darkness in the hope
of so alarming the creature that he might drop his
prey. Then we got torches and tried to find the track,
but in vain, and sorrowfully we were obhged to return
to camp, and give up the search tiU dayhght. Then

Chap. 28] IN JOURNEYTNG^S OFT 59
only too plainly it was revealed what had become of
the poor lad — a blood-stained cloth was found about
a hundred yards away, and clear evidence of the poor
feUow's fate. Simeoni was an earnest Christian, and
for some days his loss cast quite a gloom over our
camp. On August 5th Mamboya was reached, and after a
two days' rest we pursued our way to the coast. At
the stony river (Mto Mawe) I was seized with a serious
illness. Dysentery set in and I was incapacitated
from walking. My limited stock of medicines faUed
to provide a remedy. Insomnia ensued, so that one's
condition was miserable in the extreme. HappUy
Mr. Roscoe was able to enhst porters for my hammock,
and in this, from morning tUl night for six days, I was
carried along, sometimes being bumped against trees,
at others a stumbhng porter in front threw me to
the ground. But nevertheless, by God's goodness and
mercy, I was enabled to reach the coast, and there, to
my great joy, was the steamer Barawa, belonging to
the Sultan of Zanzibar, waiting for me. On being
taken Ul I had sent messengers to the coast requesting
our Agent at Sadaani to telegraph to Messrs. Boustead
and Ridley in Zanzibar, asking that a dhow might be
sent across without delay to meet me. Mr. Boustead
most kindly mentioned the matter to Sir Lloyd
Matthews, the Prime Minister, who at once gave in
structions for the Barawa to proceed to my assistance,
and so it came about that without a moment's delay
I was taken on board, and the same evening found
myself in the hospital of the Universities Mission,
where for the next three weeks I was carefully and
skUfuUy tended by Dr. Macdonald and the Mission
nurses. The kindness of Sir Lloyd Matthews, Dr.
Macdonald, and the ladies of the Universities Mission,

60 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
I can never forget. The hospital was indeed a haven
of rest after the toU and stress of the terrible time
through which I had recently passed. It had, however,
one rough and rude interruption. It was in this wise.
On Tuesday, August 25th, the nurse who was on day
duty told me that it might be necessary to move me
from the hospital, as Zanzibar was in rather an un
settled condition. Later in the day I was informed
that I was to be carried on board one of the ships in
the harbour for safety. On inquiring further, I was
told the whole story. It was as foUows.
On the day of my arrival in Zanzibar the Sultan,
Mohammed bin Thwain, died suddenly. There was
strong suspicion that he had been poisoned. His
cousin Khalid, who seemed to have very early news
of the Sultan's Ulness and death, seized the Palace
and proclaimed himseU sovereign of Zanzibar.
Three years earher, when a vacancy on the throne
occurred, Khalid was prepared for taking the same
course. But Mr. RenneU Rodd, her Majesty's Consul-
General, quietly forestaUed the httle plot and set up
the late Sultan as a British nominee. At that time
our Protectorate in Zanzibar was three years old,
Germany having given up aU her rights in exchange
for Hehgoland. Outwitted on the first occasion, Kliahd
made his plans in good time, so that no sooner was the
breath out of the Sultan's body than he was in the
Palace, ran up his flag, and defied Great Britain to oust
him. This was the situation that Mr. Basil Cave, the
acting Consul-General, was caUed upon to deal with.
HappUy and most providentiaUy, in the very midst
of the crisis. Admiral Rawson, with the East Africa
Squadron, entered the harbour. An ultimatum was
presented to the usurper, which informed him that
unless his flag was hauled down by nine o'clock on the

Chap. 28] IN JOURNEYINGS OFT 61
morning of August 25th, the British ships would
open fire.
It was in these circumstances that at nine o'clock
on the evening of the 24th, Dr. Macdonald and the
nurse entered my room and told me that on account of
the coming bombardment on the morrow, I was then
to be taken on board ship. Covered up in a hammock,
I was carried through the silent and deserted streets
down to the shore, where a boat was in waiting. It
was a weird feehng that possessed me as we passed
through the fleet, in a silence broken only by the dip
of the oars, and the chaUenge of the watchful sentinels,
to the Nowshera in the outer harbour.
My bunk looked out on the land side of the ship,
and it was with no httle curiosity that, early on the
morning of August 25th, I brought my glasses to bear
on the Sultan's Palace. The red flag was stUl there.
There was to be no surrender apparently. There was
the St. George (the flagship) and then the Racoon, the
Philomel, the Thrush, and the Sparrow, all anchored
within easy range of the shore. The Palace clock
struck nine — up went the signal and the " tongue of
flame " shot forth. The old Glasgow, a man-of-war
belonging to the Sultan, opened fire upon the St. George.
In a moment came the reply, which struck the wooden
ship at the water-line. A few minutes later she heeled
over and went to the bottom. In the meantime the
bombardment went forward. There was an ineffective
reply. One could hear the shots whistling overhead.
But forty minutes' play of the big guns was enough,
and down came the red flag. The Royal residence and
the harem were in ruins, the askaris and Arabs had
fled, and the panic-stricken Khalid — a turbulent, iU-
conditioned fanatic — had taken refuge at the German
Consulate. The bombardment was over, and a few

62 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
days later Hamoud bin Mohammed bin Said was in
stalled as Sultan of Zanzibar.
I was now taken back to the hospital, where I soon
became convalescent and sufficiently strong to proceed
to Mombasa in the Great Northern — the telegraph ship —
the captain of which very kindly gave me a passage.
Under Dr. Edward's hospitable roof I greatly improved
in health, and on September 16th returned to Frere
town, but under sentence of being " invalided home."
The few weeks which remained to me before saUing
were very busy ones, and although half crippled with
rheumatism, I was able to get through a good deal of
work. . On September 28th came the opening of the
new Mission Hall in Mombasa. This had been buUt,
under the supervision of Mr. Wray, at a cost of some
£400, and was intended as a means of reaching the
Mohammedan population of the native quarter, and
of keeping in touch with the Christian element, which
was continually moving in the direction of Mombasa
from Freretown. We hoped to get hold of the waifs
and strays, and to carry on an educational work amongst
Mohammedan children, our main object, of course,
being to win them for Christ.
On October 1st I had the joy of welcoming a large
reinforcement for Uganda and the coast districts.
For the latter sphere of work there was W. E. Parker,
Mrs. PickthaU, and Miss Culverwell. For the former,
Callis, Dr. A. R. Cook, Wigram, Clayton, Weatherhead,
Tegart, Whitehouse, Miss Taylor, Miss Timpson. Re
turning after furlough were Baskerville, England, and
Mrs. Gardiner. Pilkington, it was hoped, would foUow
a month later. Such a reinforcement was a great
cheer and a cause of deep thankfulness to God for so
abundantly answering prayer on this behalf.
A Confirmation at Rabai on October 3rd, and an

Chap. 28] IN JOURNEYINGS OFT 63
Ordination at the same place on the foUowing day, were
the next important events in my programme of work.
At the former service no fewer than 349 candidates
were confirmed, and at the latter, when James Deimler
was ordained Deacon, some 522 communicants gathered
around the Table of the Lord.
On my return to Freretown the new church there was
solemnly dedicated to the service of God. This church,
which had cost nearly £800, a large part of which had
been subscribed by the family of the late Sir Bartle
Frere, had lately been completed under the supervision
of Mr. Binns. A Confirmation service on October 7th,
when thirty-five candidates were presented to me,
brought my work to a close, and I was free to obey
the doctor's orders and take ship for England. On
Friday, October 9th, I gave a farewell address to the
party bound for Uganda, and on the 11th embarked
for home.

CHAPTER XXIX
THE SLAVE QUESTION
' 0 ye Heavens, be kind !
And feel thou, earth, for this afflicted race.'
WOEDSWOETH.
Befoee leaving East Africa I was led to consider
seriously the slave question as it affected our missionary
work in the coast districts. I have already referred in
Chap. XXVI., Vol. II. , p. 7, to the difficulties created for
us by the fact that in the Sultanate of Zanzibar, of
which Mombasa and the coast districts within the ten
mile limit formed a part, the legal status of slavery
was stUl maintained. Runaway slaves were still seek
ing shelter at our Mission stations, and demands for
their surrender were continuaUy being made to us.
Under the administration of the British East Africa
Company I felt that we had no option in the matter,
and were bound on demand to give back to the duly
constituted authority such slaves as sought refuge with
us. My warrant for this was the foUowing despatch
dated February 1, 1889, addressed by Sir Juhan
Paunceforte to Sir Charles Euan Smith and in due
course communicated to the Mission :—
" I am directed by the Marquis of Sahsbury to
instruct you to warn aU Missionary Societies against
harbouring runaway slaves without making any ex
ception. No legal right to do so can be claimed, and
when a refuge or asylum are granted in extreme cases
of peril, and out of humanity, it is done at the risk of
the person giving the shelter." 64

Chap. 29] THE SLAVE QUESTION 65
This was decisive in the days of the Company. But
on the retirement of that body a different problem
presented itself for solution. The paramount power
was no longer a trading Company, or even the Sultan
of Zanzibar. It was Great Britain herself. Was it
right therefore, in the circumstances, that these demands
for surrender should continue to be made ? Nay, did
not the fact that Great Britain had constituted herself
the supreme authority within the limits defined above,
raise even a larger question than this 1 Did it not
also raise the question of the legahty of the continuance
of the status of slavery itself within these limits 1
Was not the Consul-General himself acting iUegally in
issuing or causing to be issued orders requiring the
surrender of runaway slaves ; and were not our mis
sionaries acting contrary to British law in taking part
in the restoration to slavery of those who had sought
shelter with us ?
These were all questions which to my mind pressed
urgently for an answer. I therefore wrote to Mr.
Crauford, the Acting Commissioner (Sir Arthur Har
dinge was in England), and asked whether I was right
in assuming that now Great Britain had taken over
the administration of the country, and had become
the Executive as weU as the Protecting power, no
more demands for the surrender of runaway slaves
would be made upon us. I also went on to express
the hope that the legal status of slavery would now
be abohshed. The receipt of my letter was acknow
ledged, and an answer, it was said, would in due time
be forwarded to me. The answer, however, never came.
I therefore determined to raise the whole question at
home. Its discussion upon the spot was eminently
unsatisfactory. The Commissioner, it was weU known,
was opposed to abolition. He had expressed the
n E

66 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
opinion in a despatch to H.M.'s Government that
" under certain social conditions, and in certain stages
of human development, there was a lawful type of
slavery," and such he held was that which obtained
in the Sultanate of Zanzibar. And yet in an earlier
despatch (March 1894) he had described the position
of the slave in the following terms : —
" He cannot own or acquire or dispose of private property.
" He cannot give evidence without his master's permission.
" He cannot, without the sanction of his master, contract a
legal marriage.
" He cannot, without his master's permission, engage in trade,
nor in general claim any legal or civil right except through or
with his master's sanction.
" There is no legal limitation to his master's power of punish
ing him, and theoretically I believe that he may put him to
death without himself being held guilty of murder, or of any
more serious offence than cruelty."
Evidently nothing was to be expected from one
holding the view that the continuance of such a con
dition of things in a British Protectorate was justifi
able. The venue must be changed. An appeal to
Csesar must be made.
Before describing in detail the steps which I took,
on arriving in England, to make this appeal, or in
other words to bring to a point the whole question
of the continuance of the legal status of slavery in
Mombasa and the coast districts, and in particular
the legahty of the demands made upon us for the
surrender of runaway slaves, it wiU perhaps be helpful
if I sketch roughly the history of the slave question
in East Africa generaUy.
Great Britain's action with a view to mitigating if
not actually putting a stop to the horrors of the slave
trade in the East dates back some eighty years or

Chap. 29] THE SLAVE QUESTION 67
more. The first effectual instrument, however, under
which action was taken, was the treaty with the Sultan
of Muscat in 1845, by which British cruisers became
entitled to seize all dhows carrying slaves in territorial
waters. How many hapless victims of Mohammedan
cruelty have been rescued since then 1
To David Livingstone, perhaps, more than to any
other man, we owe that expression of public opinion
with regard to what he most expressively termed the
" open sore of the world " which resulted in the Mission
of Sir Bartle Frere to East Africa and Zanzibar in 1872,
and the signature by Dr. Kirk on June 6, 1873, of a
treaty with the Sultan, by which the carrying of slaves
by sea was forbidden, and aU slave markets, such as
those of Zanzibar and Mombasa, were closed. On the
site of the old slave market in Zanzibar the Cathedral
of the Universities Mission now stands.
In 1876 three decrees were issued by the Sultan of
Zanzibar as the result of Consular pressure being
brought to bear upon him. By the first of these, dated
January 15th, the abohtion of slavery throughout his
dominions in the Benadir and the district of Kismayu
was proclaimed. On April 18th two decrees were
promulgated. In the one the bringing of raw slaves
from the interior was forbidden, and by the other
the conveyance of slaves along the coast for shipment
to the islands was declared iUegal. In 1889 we reach
the period in which freedom for the slave owes much
to the influence and action of Sir Charles Euan Smith.
In that year (September 20th) a perpetual right to
search all dhows belonging to his subjects in Zanzibar
waters was accorded to England and Germany by the
Sultan. It was further enacted that aU slaves brought
into his dominions after November 1, 1889, should be
free, and aU chUdren born in the same domimon of

68 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
slave parents after January 1, 1890, should also have
their freedom.
I have already referred in Chapter XXVI. to the action
of the British East Africa Company in the matter of
slavery, and to the issue of the Proclamation of May 1,
1890, under which the members of certain specified
tribes were declared incapable of being enslaved, or
even of being held in bondage. On August 1st of the
same year a very notable decree was issued by the
Sultan under pressure from Great Britain. By it the
exchange, sale, purchase, or traffic of whatsoever
nature in domestic slaves or otherwise, was forbidden.
AU slaves of owners dying without lawful chUdren, and
slaves proved to have been ill-treated, were hberated,
and it entitled any slave as a right to purchase his
freedom at any time at a fair and reasonable price to
be fixed by the Sultan.
Alas ! the Arab power behind the throne proved to
be too strong, and on the 20th of August a supple
mentary proclamation was issued practically repealing
one of the most important provisions of the decree of
August 1st, It ran as follows : " If any slave brings
money to the Kathi to purchase his freedom, his master
shall not be forced to take the money."
Such, very roughly, was the result of the efforts which
Great Britain had put forth in the cause of freedom in
her diplomatic intercourse with the Sultan of Zanzibar,
who since 1890 had enjoyed her protection. It could
hardly be said to be encouraging.
The abohtion of the legal status of slavery, the
discussion of which had now been going on for several
years, had become a pressing and practical question.
The Sultan, the direct nominee of Great Britain, was
a mere puppet in her hands and danced as the strings
were puUed. In Mombasa he was not the executive

Chap. 29] THE SLAVE QUESTION 69
power, but Great Britain. The case therefore for
abohtion in Mombasa and the coast districts was much
stronger than that for Zanzibar and Pemba, which
had practically been assented to.
On my way up country in 1895 I had addressed to
the Government representative in Mombasa, in response
to a request for an expression of opinion on this great
question, the following statement of my views : —
" The question of immediate abohtion is more or
less one of finance and energetic and wise government.
If the Administration is prepared to face the necessary
expenditure, and to exert itself to devise means to
meet the altered conditions of life involved in the
proclamation of freedom to all slaves in the British
Protectorate, then in my opinion such a proclama
tion may be made with perfect safety. This opinion
is formed after a five years' acquaintance with the
conditions of life in such slave centres as Mombasa,
Zanzibar, and the coast districts, as well as such slave-
producing countries as are included in British and
German East Africa. Knowing what I do of the
traffic of up country and slave hfe at the coast, I
earnestly hope that no considerations of the expense
involved, or the labour entailed, will be allowed to
interfere for a moment with the adoption of a policy
so righteous in itself, and which is hkely to be so
beneficial in its results."
Evidently this expression of opinion was not favour
ably viewed by the local Administration ; it was there
fore suppressed, and not allowed to see the hght of
day. But letters from two young ladies of the Mission
who had spent some eighteen months in the field were
pubhshed in the Blue-book. But then they had de
clared for deferred abohtion.
What was the feeling of the Mission " up country,"

70 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
at the very sources of supply, may be gathered from
the foUowing memorial addressed to the Consul-General
and signed by no fewer than fourteen senior men.
Had time allowed it would doubtless have been signed
by the whole body of missionaries.
" We, the undersigned missionaries of the C.M.S.,
beheving that the existence of a legahsed condition
of slavery in Mombasa, Zanzibar, Pemba, and the
coast districts is more or less intimately connected
with slave-raiding and trading in the interior of the
Continent, beg to express the very earnest hope that
the legal status of slavery in the above-mentioned
districts, which are under the control of her Majesty's
Government, may be abohshed without delay."
Such then were the circumstances in which I proposed
to raise the question at home of the continuance of
slavery in Mombasa and the coast districts. I reached
England on November 20th, and on December 7th was
enabled to lay the whole case before the Prime Minister
(Lord Sahsbury), in an interview which he very kindly
granted me. I found him most sympathetic, and
while drawing my attention to certain practical diffi
culties in the way of immediate abolition, expressed
the earnest hope that something might be done. He
suggested that inasmuch as Mr. G. N. Curzon (now
Lord Curzon of Kedleston), the Under Secretary of
State, was in charge of Foreign Office matters in the
House of Commons, it would be helpful if I laid the
case before him. He would himself, he added, arrange
the interview. I accordingly, by the Prime Minister's
arrangement, met Mr. Curzon the next day in the
Under Secretary's room in the Foreign Office, and
there, in the presence of Sir Arthur Hardinge, who
had been called in to assist in the discussion, the whole
case was gone into. Mr. Curzon was unable to make

Chap. 29] THE SLAVE QUESTION 71
any promise as to Government action, " for," said he,
" I am not in the Cabinet, but you may rest assured
that all that you have said shaU have the fullest con
sideration." I left the Foreign Office feehng decidedly
hopeful of some action being taken in the not distant
future. Nor was I disappouited. On April 6, 1897,
a decree was promulgated by the Sultan of Zanzibar,
at the instance of Great Britain, abohshing the legal
status of slavery in Zanzibar and Pemba. This action of
the Government was received with a chorus of approval
from aU sides. It was generaUy assumed that the
whole question was now settled, and that at last Great
Britain had washed her hands of aU comphcity with
the hateful " institution " in East Africa.
But it was not so. From several points of view
the decree was most disappointing. As I was obhged
to point out in a letter to the Times on AprU 12th, it
failed to meet our just expectations in several par
ticulars. First, it dealt only with one-half of the
Sultanate, leaving Mombasa and the mainland territory
within the ten-mUe hmit in exactly the same position
as before. Then, secondly, it exempted aU concubines
from the operation of the decree. They were stiU to
be held in bondage. And, thirdly, it failed to deal with
the fugitive slave question. It was truly a disappoint
ing outcome to the struggle of years.
But the question could not be aUowed to rest in such
an unsatisfactory position. The fugitive slave problem
pressed for a solution. I was determined to bring it
to a point, and therefore telegraphed to Freretown
asking my representative to send me a number of the
original demands for the surrender of fugitive slaves.
I also instructed him by letter to refuse to surrender
any more such slaves, and if need should arise to give
them shelter in my own house ; and I further stated

72 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
my willingness to return to Africa at a moment's
notice and meet any charge that might be pre
ferred against me, in consequence of such action being
taken. A month later the papers for which I had telegraphed
arrived and I placed them in the hands of Mr. J. A.
Pease, who for many years had so ably represented
the cause of the East African slave in the House of
Commons. They were produced in the course of the
debate on June 24th and led to a dramatic scene — a
complete change of front on the part of the Govern
ment, a notable statement by the Attorney-General
of the law, one that deserves to be written in letters
of gold, and the following very remarkable telegram
to Sir Arthur Hardinge, our Consul-General in Zan
zibar : —
" The Attorney-General has laid down that a British
subject anywhere, in whatever service or employment
he may happen to be engaged, if he takes part in re
storing to his master or otherwise depriving any person
of his liberty, on the sole ground that he is a fugitive
slave, is breaking the British law and exposing himself
to penalties. I have to inform you for your personal
guidance that you should conform your conduct to
the law thus laid down,"
This was a great victory and one for which we felt
profoundly thankful, but it was incomplete. The
status of slavery was still maintained in the coast
districts of the Sultanate, and no more satisfactory
pronouncement could be obtained from the Govern
ment than the statement of Mr. Balfour made in the
course of the debate on June 24th, that " the Govern
ment are desirous, at the earliest possible opportunity,
to carry out on the mainland of the East Coast Pro
tectorate what they had already carried out, or were

Chap. 29] THE SLAVE QUESTION 73
in process of carrying out, upon the island." With
this for the time we were obliged to rest content,^
The Diamond Jubilee of her Majesty Queen Victoria,
with its never to be forgotten service on the steps of
St. Paul's, the thirteen hundredth anniversary of the
landing of Augustine at Ebbsfleet, and the Lambeth
Conference of the Bishops of the Anghcan Communion,
now occupied our time and attention. And so the
days ran their course, and summer faded into autumn
as the time drew near for a return to my diocese. But
there was one important matter which I felt it necessary
to bring to a completion before leaving England, and
that was the arrangement for the division of my juris
diction in East Africa. The work had grown far beyond
the compass of one man's power to supervise. Since
my consecration the number of European workers had
increased from 36 to 102, the native workers from 21
to 742, the number of the baptized from 1437 to
11,950, whUst the Communicant roU showed a growth
of from 285 to 3641. But besides the necessity of
dealing with this great increase in the actual work of
the Mission, there was the great waste of time in the
enormous distances to be covered in the journeys to
and from Uganda, and the visitation of the Usagara
Mission. But further than this, the development of
the Church in Uganda was in that stage in which close
supervision was a necessity, and this could only be
secured by a resident Bishop. I therefore broached
the matter to the Archbishop (Dr. Temple), who readily
gave his consent. The Committee of the C.M.S. as
cordially gave their adhesion to the scheme, which,
roughly speaking, was the erection of the East African
' Since this was written the abolition of the legal status of slavery
in Mombasa and the coast district of British East Africa has been
declared (October 1, 1907), but the Act is sadly vitiated by a clause
excluding concubines from its benefit.

74 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
Protectorate with the addition of the Usagara Mission
into a separate missionary diocese. As the C.M.S.
undertook to provide the stipend of the Bishop, the
nomination was left by the Archbishop in the hands
of the Society.
A charge dealing with the condition of the work
in the diocese as a justffication for its division I issued
in the closing days of October, and on November 2nd
once more started on my way to Mombasa, where I
arrived on the 25th of the same month.

CHAPTER XXX
GATHERING CLOUDS
' Portents and prodigies are grown so frequent.
That they have lost their name.'
J. Dbyden.
While the events narrated in the last chapter were
happening at home, stirring times and perilous days
had once more come to Uganda. That much dis
tracted land seemed destined never to have rest. Peace
and she were still for a while longer to be strangers to
one another. " Patience must have her perfect work,"
and the cleansing fires of sorrow and distress must
have their share, and do their part in the regeneration
of Uganda and the estabhshment of the Kingdom of
Christ. Every trial has its mission to the individual
soul, and so no doubt it is with the body of Christ —
the Church, like her Divine Lord and Master, is made
perfect through suffering.
' Out of the dark must grow,
Sooner or later, whatever is fair.
Since the heavens have willed it so.'
Before telling the story of the sore trouble which
feU upon the land in July 1897, it wiU be weU to follow
up briefly the course of events which led up to it, and
to trace the general progress of the work during the
period succeeding the close of Chapter V. In doing
so it wiU be necessary somewhat to retrace our steps.
First, as regards the work and its progress, it wiU be
weU to remember how wonderfully God had raised up
7S

76 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
a body of teachers and evangehsts for the work of
the ministry, and for the building up of the Body of
Christ. When I left Uganda in the month of June
1896 there were over 700 native evangehsts (male and
female) at work in the Nyanza Mission. They were
not, it is true, men and women highly trained or
thoroughly equipped inteUectually for their work, but
it might, I think, truly be said of the great majority
that they had a thorough knowledge of the Gospels
in their heads, and the love of God in their hearts.
Writing at the time of these men I thus described
their work : —
" They have a certain work to do and up to a certain
point they do it, and do it very well too — perhaps as
no European could do it. This work may roughly be
described as of a threefold character, and for it there
are three classes or grades of teachers required. First
there are what are called the teachers of the Mateka.
The Mateka is a little book, containing the alphabet,
syllables, simple words, the Creed, the Lord's Prayer,
and the Ten Commandments, with a few texts of
Scripture. Then, secondly, there are the teachers who
have in hand the Gospel readers. These are supposed
to be quahfied to prepare candidates for Baptism.
They instruct them, of course, in the Church Catechism,
and when prepared present them to the missionary for
his testing. Then lastly we have the most highly trained
and experienced men engaged in the work of preparing
candidates for Confirmation. They are expected to
take them through such an Epistle as that of St. Paul
to the Romans, as well as through a final course on
the Church Catechism, and the Bishop's Catechism.
" This then is the composition of the noble band
of 725 teachers whose work from Busoga in the east
to Toro in the west, and from Bunyoro in the north

Chap. 30] GATHERING CLOUDS 77
to Nasa in the south, is spreading over and changing
the whole face of the country. Wherever the teacher
goes there the Scriptures go; a reading-house is soon
buUt which rapidly becomes a church, a place where
God is worshipped, a new interest is awakened in the
Hves of the people, new aspirations arise, new hopes are
given birth to. Men begin to see that there is something
in hfe worth hving for, the dawn of a new existence
has come." ' Heaven above is softer blue,
Earth around is sweeter green.
Something lives in every hue
Christless eyes have never seen.'
The number of souls with wliich this body of teachers
had to deal was very considerable. At the time of
which I am writing (June 1896) there were probably
some 60,000 " Readers " imder instruction, of whom
no fewer than 20,000 were reading the Gospels, whilst
22,000 were in the earher stage of reading the Mateka.
Seven thousand were baptized Christians, of whom
2500 were Communicants. This would leave some
10,000 who were probably simply learning the art of
reading, and those whom it had been found impossible
to classify.
Manifestly the great need of the moment was training
for the teachers, and the organisation and supervision
of the great work in which they were engaged. HappUy
the committee of the Church Missionary Society
realised the need, and a large and notable remforce-
ment was even then bemg gathered together. I have
already aUuded to my meeting with this party at
Freretown later in the year.
In the meanwhUe, those upon the spot were doing
their very utmost to grapple with the ever growing

78 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
need. Archdeacon Walker, with Pike and Millar, in
Mengo, were mainly engaged in the work, vital to the
future interests of the Church, of training. Women
were being gathered together in large numbers by the
band of ladies whom it had been my privUege to bring
up country with me in the autumn of 1895. The work
in Bulemezi was being supervised by Buckley and
Lewin, whilst in the neighbouring province of Singo,
Sugden and Fletcher were at work. In Kyagwe,
Blackledge, Martin HaU, and Lloyd were engaged
from morning till night in organising one of the most
promising of our outlying districts. The latter was
labouring at Nakanyonyi in North Kyagwe, and the two
former at Ngogwe in South Kyagwe. Busoga, in which
the work was being carried on in the most difficult
and trying circumstances, was being worked by Rowhng,
Crabtree, and Allan Wilson. Rowhng, with the latter as
his colleague, was at Luba's, whilst Crabtree was striving
to make headway against the opposition of the chief
at Miro's. Koki was being opened up by Leakey, and
the islands by Gordon. Purvis was holding the fort
at Gayaza and Wright at Nasa. The location of Fisher
in Toro has already been aUuded to.
This, roughly, was the distribution of the missionary
body in Uganda at the period under review. Of the
detaUs of the work in which the various members of
the Mission were engaged we find interesting accounts
on record. Of the development of the missionary idea
Archdeacon Walker thus wrote to the C.M.S. : —
" I was telhng our Church CouncU of the efforts
being made to reach the whole world before 1899, and
they said, ' WeU, then, we must try to send out more
missionaries too.' The old idea that the earth is hke
a table on legs and that one of the gods holds it up is
dying out, but stUl a good many people think that the

Chap. 30] GATHERING CLOUDS 79
end of the world is somewhere in the country of Bukedi
to the north of Busoga. One of the Church elders said
if only the Europeans could send a missionary to the
country of the Bukedi, then the whole world would
have been reached. So most of the people would
think. I said, ' Then why should you not send ? '
and at once they rephed, ' WeU, we wiU try and do so.' "
The monthly meetings held for the purpose of deepen
ing the missionary spirit had an attendance of something
like 800, which Mr. MiUar considered smaU. " How
ever," he wrote, " those who do attend show a deep
interest in the work."
The women's work was going forward happily. Miss
Furley was in charge of the Baptism and Confirmation
classes, and was able also to take in hand a class for
the training of teachers. Of the latter she wrote,
" We are now reading the Acts of the Apostles, and
I never read in England with a class more keenly
interested. To many of them it is not so well known
as the Gospels, and it has come with a delightful fresh
ness quite unknown in a class at home familiar with
the Bible history from childhood. Their prolonged
exclamation of keen sympathy and the real dehght
with which they watch the success of the Apostles'
work is most interesting."
Miss Pilgrim and Miss Brown, besides other work,
were engaged daily in the dispensary, ministering to
the needs of the sick and suffering ; while Miss Chad
wick and Miss Thomsett made it their duty to visit the
Lubiri (king's enclosure) and such centres as Kasubi
and Lusaka in the suburbs.
On August 1st a son and heir was born to the king.
This, as will be seen later, was an event of the highest
importance. As his mother was a Protestant, king
Mwanga formally consented to his being brought up

80 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
in her faith. He was baptized by the name of Daudi
(David), and placed (according to native custom) in
the hands of the Katikiro as guardian.
During the remaining months of the year the work
throughout the country prospered greatly, to the great
joy of aU engaged in it. It is no exaggeration to say
that " the Lord was adding to the Church daily such
as were being saved."
At length, on January 11th, the first of the party
which had left the coast at the end of November arrived
in Mengo. This was Pilkington, who, after a most
adventurous bicycle ride of three-and-twenty days
from Kibwezi, had managed to outstrip his companions,
and to reach Uganda five weeks in advance of them.
On February 19th the rest of the party arrived, and at
once a distribution of the new force was entered upon.
Miss Thomsett and Miss Brown were located at
Gayaza, whilst Miss PUgrim and Miss Bird were assigned
to Ngogwe. This was the beginning of the extension
of women's work to the country districts. Miss
Timpson, being a trained nurse, was located at Mengo
for medical work.
The organisation of this much-needed development
of our missionary work was at once entered upon with
aU his characteristic energy by Dr. A. R. Cook, and in
the month of June a Mission Hospital, buUt by the
natives themselves, was opened and solemnly dedicated
by prayer to the service of God.
The remaining locations were as foUows : Wigram
to Mitiana, Clayton to Koki, Tegart to Nakanyonyi,
Weatherhead to Busoga, and CaU^ to Toro.
The latter, a devoted servant of God, was not per
mitted to labour long ui that far away land. He had
the joy and privUege, however, of administering the
Holy Communion in Luganda, and of baptizing fourteen

Chap. 30] GATHERING CLOUDS 81
souls into the Church of Christ, and then was struck
down by fever, and in spite of all that Lloyd could do
for him passed away on April 24th. It was the first
death that had occurred in the Mission (north of the
Lake) since its founding. This fact speaks volumes for
the comparative healthiness of the chmate of Uganda.
On June 20th a special English service was held in
the Cathedral, in commemoration of the Diamond
Jubilee of Queen Victoria, and two days later there was
a grand reception at Kampala, the Government Fort,
at which all the Europeans were commanded to be
present. It was a brilliant scene — soldiers, court
officials, and missionaries — Anghcan and Roman, being
present in considerable numbers. The king came
attended by the Katikiro and a large concourse of
chiefs ; he occupied a seat of honour facing the company,
and made a speech in which he endeavoured to set
forth his own and his people's congratulations on the
reign of H.M. Queen Victoria with its sixty " years of
blessing." It was, however, but lamely done. There
was no heart in it. Mr. George Wilson, the Acting
Commissioner, responded, greetings were exchanged,
and the function was over — very much, it was observed,
to the rehef of the king.
A fortnight later the storm, which slowly, sUently,
and almost imperceptibly had been gathering on the
pohtical horizon, burst with a great thunderclap upon
the country. " Kabaka aduse " (The king has fled)
was the cry which was passed from hp to hp, in half
whispered accents, on the morning of July 6th. Not
trusting his gate-keepers he had in the darkness of
the night cut his way out through the reed fences of
his enclosure and, embarking ui canoes at Munyonyo,
by sunrise was weU on his way to Budu, where he at
once raised the standard of revolt.
II ^

82 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
He had chosen his ground weU. The chiefs of Budu
were disloyal to a man, and as a consequence the whole
country governed by them was seething with sedition.
It was only necessary for the king to make his appear
ance for a general rising at once to take place, and in
a few days there raUied to his standard aU the dis
affected and discontented ones in the country south of
the Katonga.
The king's ablest lieutenant was Gabrieh, the Roman
Cathohc Mujasi, who some two months previously had
been convicted of disloyalty, but who had managed to
evade arrest. His co-conspirators — the Roman Catholic
chief of Mawokwata, the Kaima; and the excom
municated Protestant chief of Singo, the Mukwenda —
had, however, been caught and deported to the Eldoma
Ravine, where some eighteen months later I found them
engaged in the humble occupation of sweeping the
quadrangle of the Fort.
And what, it may be asked, had moved the king
thus to embark on this mad enterprise? Was it in
justice or harsh treatment of himself or his people?
Nothing of the kind. It was simply and solely his
hatred of Christianity and the opposition which, in
consequence of its spread, he found on every hand,
even within his own household, to the life of unbridled
lust which he longed to be allowed to live. Moreover,
there is very little doubt but that he was cognisant of
Gabrieh's conspiracy, and dreaded some punishment
on the fact becoming known to the Administration.
The heathen party in the country was entirely with
him in his dishke of European control.
But in deahng with this revolt there was another
force to be reckoned with, besides those inherent in
disaffection and discontent, and that was the loyalty
of the great mass of the population to the kingship.

Chap. 30] GATHERING CLOUDS 83
Not simply loyalty to Mwanga personally— him they
hated — but loyalty to the king as an institution.
Dr. Cook, writing on July 7th, thus described the
situation : " The whole country is very much excited.
Men are pouring into the capital with guns (mostly
retainers of the various chiefs), and a good many seem
to be stealing quietly away to join the king in Budu.
The king has immense prestige in the country, where
the ' Bakopi ' (peasants) all imphcitly believe in him."
And again writing on the 12th : " Nearly all the pohce
have deserted. They went off with guns last night to
join Mwanga. The Katikiro wrote rather a gloomy
letter to Walker, saying he does not reahse how serious
a matter it is, and that the people hate and detest the
conquerors. The king hates the Europeans because
they stopped his gross immoralities. The chiefs hate
us because a Christian is expected only to have one
wife and because no slaves are allowed ; and the people
hate us because they say they are obliged to carry
loads, and to make roads (measures adopted by the
Government for the good of the country), and because
the old heathen customs are dying away."
Major Ternan, the Acting Commissioner, who had been
in the Nandi country, arrived in Mengo on July 11th,
and at once set about the work of organising an attack
upon the gathering forces of the rebels in Budu. Mr.
Forster and a hundred Sudanese soldiers with a Maxim
had been despatched by Mr. Wilson immediately on
the flight of the king becoming known.
All this while Pilkington, Leakey, and Clayton were
in a position of considerable danger in Koki. The
forces of the king blocked the road to Mengo, and
Kamswaga, the chief, declared himself unable to pro
tect them. On July 15th Pilkington wrote a letter
addressed to any European into whose hands it might

84 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
fall, asking for help and expressing the opinion that
it was almost impossible for them to get out of their
perilous position alive, unassisted. But assistance was
nearer than he supposed. Major Ternan was only
two days away with 500 Sudanese and four Maxims,
besides a large force of loyal Baganda.
At length, at a place called Kyango (in Budu), the
rival forces came in contact with one another, and a
decisive battle was fought. " The whole force," wrote
Dr. Cook, " had passed a swamp, save the rearguard
with provisions and baggage. The enemy hned the
crest of the hiU in front. Suddenly a hostUe chief,
Katabalwa, swooped down on the rearguard, separated
by the swamp from the main body, but the Maxims
were run up the hill and rained a storm of buUets over
the heads of the rearguard upon the attackers, who
broke and fled.
" Meanwhile in front there was a stubborn fight.
Our friendly Baganda fought desperately, for they
were fighting for their religion and their country. The
other side fought with the energy of despair, but after
holding their ground for an hour, the fighting being
almost hand to hand, they were at length driven off
the ridge and gave way in all directions."
The immediate result of this crushing defeat was the
flight of Mwanga. Crossing the Kagera river he took
refuge in German territory, where he was promptly
interned and sent to Mwanza at the south of the
lake. A month later, viz., on August 14th, Mwanga was
declared an outlaw, and his son Daudi Cwa was placed
upon the throne. Three regents were appointed,
namely Apolo Kagwa, the Katikiro ; Zakaria Kizito,
the Kangao ; and Mugwania — the latter being a Roman
Catholic and the two former Protestants.

Chap. 30] GATHERING CLOUDS 85
Archdeacon Walker thus described the coronation
ceremony : —
" A proclamation was read out proscribing Mwanga
and some twelve of the chiefs. AU but one were Roman
Cathohcs. AU the rest of the rebels were pardoned
on condition of their coming in and laying down their
arms. After the reading of the proclamation at
Nakasero the chiefs went to Mengo and the young chUd
Daudi was produced, and in accordance with ancient
custom was set upon the seat of his forefathers (called
Namulondo) by the chief caUed Mugema, He was
arrayed in a bark cloth, and a shield and two spears
were held over him, and it was proclaimed that king
Daudi had ' eaten Uganda,' "
But the rebeUion was not yet over. The late king
Mwanga was, it was true, a prisoner at Mwanza, but
Gfibrieh was stUl at large moving swiftly about and
attracting to himself many of the scattered rebels.
These were met and defeated by 3Ir. Grant and Lieut.
Hobart, But stUl the fires of insurrection smouldered
on here and there, and ever and anon they broke out
into flames.
As can weU be imagined the work of the Church
during these troublous days was being carried on at a
great disadvantage. In Koki and Budu it had been
completely broken up, whilst at such centres as ^litiana
and Ngogwe the classes had shrunk to very smaU
dimensions. The ladies for safety had been brought
into the capital from Gayaza, and consequently their
work was suspended tUl brighter days should dawn.
It was in these circumstances that early in the month
of September news of Mohammedan disaffection in
Busoga reached Mengo.
^h. George WUson. the Acting Commissioner, was
happUy ahve to the danger, and prompt measures

86 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
were taken to secure the person of Mbogo, the Moham
medan leader in Uganda, and the disaffected chiefs in
Busoga. No sooner had this been done than tidings
came of the revolt of the Sudanese at the Eldoma
Ravine and their march on Uganda.
This was indeed a startling event. What was the
meaning of it? Was there a widespread conspiracy,
the Mohammedans of Uganda and Busoga combining
with the Sudanese for the overthrow of the Christian
power ? Or was it simply the grievances (either real
or imaginary) of the soldiery finding expression in
mutiny ? It was hard to say at the time. Informa
tion was lacking. But later events and the lapse of
time have shown that the latter was the true explana
tion of an event which, had it been less resolutely and
promptly dealt with, might have entaUed, if ifot the
destruction of the European community, at any rate
the possible loss of Uganda for a time, and the setting
up of a Mohammedan power. Not that this was the
aim of the mutineers at the time of their revolt. But
that such would have been the ultimate outcome of
the movement no one who studies it from this distance
of time can doubt for a moment.
But who were these Sudanese, and how came they
to have such a position in the coimtry as almost to hold
its destiny in their hands ? Roughly speaking, they
were the remnants of the force which Emin Pasha
had with him in the Equatorial Province at the time
of his rescue by Stanley. They had been enlisted in
the service of the Company by Captain Lugard at the
time of his visit to KavaUi's in 1891-92, and later were
taken over by Sir Gerald Portal for service imder the
British Grovemment. Selim Bey, who at that time
was their commander, was imphcated, as wUl be re
membered, in the Mohammedan rising of 1893, and

Chap. 30] GATHERING CLOUDS 87
died on his way to Kikuyu, whither he was being sent
as a prisoner.
That they had grievances can scarcely be questioned.
They were miserably paid — their pay, if pay it could
be called, was in arrears. They were badly fed. They
were harassed by marches and counter-marches. And
now they were being ordered off into some distant
country, they knew not whither, as a part of an
expedition under Major Macdonald. And what perhaps
they felt most of all, they were forbidden to take their
women with them. These women carried their cooking
utensils and prepared their food. Without them their
lives would be a misery. And so they refused to go
and, deserting, made the best of their way to the Ravine,
where they were reasoned with by Mr. F. J. Jackson,
the Acting Commissioner, but in vain. Most thought
lessly they were fired upon by the order of a subaltern,
who was far from realising the seriousness of the step
he was taking. And so the gage of battle was thrown
down, and the mutineers turned their steps towards
Uganda and their brethren in arms.
At Nandi they were joined by a part of the garrison
of the Fort. After seizing the large store of ammuni
tion and subjecting the officer in charge (Captain
Bagnall) to a series of indignities, they marched on to
Mumia's, which was saved through the presence of
mind and fertihty of resource of Mr. Stanley Tomkins,
who was in command.
In the meanwhUe news of the meeting had reached
Mengo, and Major Thruston, being fuU of confidence
in the loyalty of the Sudanese at Luba's, with great
courage started off at once to join Mr. N. A. Wilson,
who was in charge of that fort. The garrison, however,
was in no mood to hsten to reason. The Major, with
Messrs. WUson and Scott, the latter the engineer of the

88 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
steam-launch, were at once made prisoners. Commum-
cations were opened with the approaching mutineers.
They were admitted into the fort and thenceforth theirs
was a common cause, they hved a common hfe, waged
a common conflict, and met a common fate.
On October 18th Major Macdonald and Mr. Jackson,
who had been foUowing close at the heels of the
mutineers, reached Luba's, and took up their position
on the brow of the hUl overlooking the fort. Their
force was a comparatively smaU one. It consisted
only of eighteen Sikhs, some 250 Swahilis, who were
httle better than armed porters, and nine Europeans.
Entrenchments were hastUy thrown up and every
preparation made for resisting an attack. Nor had
they long to wait. " Early the next morning "
(October 19th), wrote Dr. Cook, " 300 of the Sudanese,
who, of course, are weU armed and disciplined, came
up laughing and chatting and saying they did not want
to fight. Major Macdonald was not a man to be caught
napping, and quietly got everything ready. Suddenly
the Sudanese crammed cartridges into their rifles and
fired on the Europeans, and for over five hours a fierce
battle raged, the men often firing at only thirty yards
distance. At length the ammunition of the Major's
party began to faU, and giving the word to charge they
made a desperate effort and drove the Sudanese back,
who then retreated to their fort," They had lost
sixty-four kUled and thirty or forty wounded. On our
side Captain Fielding had been kUled and sixteen
Swahilis, whilst Mr. Jackson was seriously wounded,
together with many of the rank and file.
And now ensued a tragedy which sent a thrUl of
horror through the whole British community. The
mutineers, smarting at their defeat and realising how
thoroughly they were committed to a conflict a

THE VICTORIA NYANZA FROH THE HEIGHTS ABOVE LUBA'S

Chap, 30] GATHERING CLOUDS 89
outrance, butchered in cold blood the three prisoners
lying helplessly in their hands. Major Thruston was
first done to death, and then his two companions in
misfortune. It was a dastardly deed, and one which
rendered any compromise impossible. Bilal, the ring
leader of the mutineers and the instigator of the crime,
probably realised this, and urged its committal with a
view to binding his men more closely to himself. They
were now all criminals alike, and must stand or fall
together. On the very day these tragic' events were happening
at Luba's (October 19th), things appeared at Mengo
to be so threatening that Mr. George Wilson appealed
to the Mission for volunteers and assistance. He felt
that the confidence of the Baganda in the missionaries
would be a great moral support to the Government.
A meeting was called to consider the matter, and
Pilkington and Dr. Cook were chosen to proceed to the
scene of action with the Baganda forces then about
to start. The former, it was arranged, would act as
interpreter and intermediary between the English
officers and the Baganda chiefs. The latter, of course,
would go as a medical man.
All the ladies were called into the capital, as well as
all the male missionaries, with the exception of Buckley
in Toro and those in Koki. Fletcher, Lloyd, and Allan
Wilson were detailed to assist at Luba's as need should
arise. Weatherhead, whose station was at Luba's, had
a marvellous escape. He was at Ngogwe on his way
to Mengo for a hohday, but hearing of the mutiny at
the Ravine and the march of the mutineers on Luba's,
he determined to hurry back and attempt to save as
much as possible of the Mission property. But he
must tell his own story, " I arrived," he wrote, " in
Busoga at 2,30 a,m, and found the fort (Luba's) most

90 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV,
carefully guarded, pickets out all round, and patrols
along the road leading to the hUl, After handing over
the Uganda postman to a sentry I passed on. Several
sentries came and looked closely into my face. Why
did they let me pass, for they must before that time
have decided to let the rebels in ? On reaching the
foot of the great hill I came across four of the rebel
Sudanese, They dropped into the shade and seized
their guns, I saluted them in Swahili as I passed,
but got a rather grumpy return. On the hiU I passed
about twenty Sudanese, all straggling down without
order, and they, too, all let me pass through them
unharmed. Why ? There seems no good human
reason, I reached the station at 4 a.m. and was resting a
httle, when at 7,30 Nuwa (the Rev. Nuwa Kikwabanga)
burst into my room with a messenger from Miro's, who
brought the news of the treachery and the seizing of
the two white men in the fort. Also that the Moham
medans had risen and my life was in danger. Nuwa
was most kind and evidently meant to save me if
possible. He himself carried me over most of the
swamps. In one we had to hide twice because of
Sudanese and Islamites. We walked ten and a half
hours that day, and on Monday, after six hours' heavy
walking through long grass, reached the Nile and
crossed into Uganda and safety."
But to return to the siege of Luba's, for such was
the character which the military operations had now
assumed. On October 23rd Pilkington and Dr. Cook,
together with the Katikiro and other Baganda forces,
arrived on the summit of the hill overlooking the fort,
and were warmly welcomed by Major Macdonald.
Five days later a Hotchkiss gun was brought in and
an attempt made to bombard the place, but without
much visible result. Then ensued a weary time of

Chap. 30] GATHERING CLOUDS 91
desultory warfare, without any decisive action being
fought, until the arrival of reinforcements from the
coast warranted an attack being made in force. This
was arranged for November 24th, but resulted unfor
tunately with disastrous consequences to the Baganda,
of whom 60 were killed and some 280 wounded. In
their eagerness to grapple with the enemy they attacked
prematurely, and were mowed down in large numbers
by the Maxim which the Sudanese had captured when
the steam-launch fell into their hands.
Of this sad loss Pilkington, in the last letter ever
received from him, thus wrote : " It is terrible to see
these Baganda being kiUed in a quarrel not theirs but
ours. It was some comfort to share a little of the
danger the other day. I sometimes half wish that
some of us Europeans had been killed, or at any rate
wounded, if it weren't for friends at home."
On December the 11th an attempt was made to cut
down the banana plantation surrounding the fort,
which not only served as cover for the enemy but also
as a constant source of food supply. Captain Harrison
was in charge of the party, and George Pilkington was
acting under his orders. At about seven o'clock the
advance began. What followed must be told in the
words of Mr. A. B. Lloyd. " PUkington took up his
position with Captain Harrison, who was leading the
attack. Presently Pilkington's boy (Aloni), who was
by his side, shouted out, ' There they are close to us.'
Both Pilkington and Capt. Harrison saw men coming
towards them but thought them Baganda, and told
Aloni so, but he was quite sure about it, fired a shot
into them as they advanced, and this proved without
doubt that they were Sudanese, for they then opened
their fire upon our men. One man took several de
liberate aims at Pilkington but missed him. Then

92 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
Pilkington fired a few shots at him, but the shots went
wide, and then it was that the man fired again at our
brother, shooting him right through the thigh and
bursting the femoral artery. He cried out, ' Harrison,
I am hit ! ' and sat down on the ground. One of
Harrison's Sudanese officers then shot at the man, who
was stiU close by, who had wounded Pilkington. He
missed him and the fellow returned the fire, hitting
the officer in the left arm, breaking his arm, and shouted
out to him, ' Bilal, what are you doing here ? Go back
to Egypt. Have you come here to fight against your
brothers ? ' ' Yes ! ' said Bilal, ' you are rebels, and
we wiU wipe you aU out.' And with his right hand
he drew his revolver and shot the man who had kiUed
Pilkington. " While this was going on Harrison made arrange
ments for some Baganda to carry Pilkington back to
the fort. Aloni knelt down by his side and said, ' Sebo
bakukubye ' (Sir, have they shot you ?), Pilkington re
plied, ' Wewawo omwana wange bankubye ' (Yes, my
child, they have shot me). Then he seemed to get sud
denly very weak, and Aloni said to him, ' My master, you
are dying ; death has come ; ' to which he rephed, 'Yes,
my child, it is as you say.' Then Aloni said, ' Sebo,
he that beheveth in Christ, although he die yet shaU
he live.' To this Pilkington replied, ' Yes, my child,
it is as you say, shall never die.' Then they carried
him some little distance to the rear of the battle, which
was now raging most furiously. When they had put
him down again he turned to those who carried him
and said, ' Thank you, my friends, you have done weU
to take me off the battlefield and now give me rest,'
and almost immediately he became insensible and
rested from his pain.
" They then brought him into the camp, but we soon

Chap. 30] GATHERING CLOUDS 93
saw that the end was very near. We did aU we
could to restore him, but he feU quietly asleep about
8.30 A.M.
" Just before they brought in Pilkington, Lieutenant
Macdonald (a brother of the Major) was brought in
quite dead, shot right through the spine by Sudanese
concealed in the long grass. It was awful work, and
one's heart seemed to melt within one. . . ."
" December 12.
" We buried Macdonald and PUkington last evening
under a tree outside the fort. I read the Enghsh burial
service, and aU the Europeans with the Sikhs attended.
A most solemn time."
And so it cam^e to pass that this sore trouble fell upon
the Church in Uganda, and she lost her great linguist
and evangelist, George Pilkington.
To many, nay to most of us, the loss seemed an
irreparable one, and so in many respects it was, but
yet we felt that just as when Mackay was taken from
us, his place was filled and God's work went forward,
so it would be with regard to the great loss which in
the mysterious Providence of God the Church was
caUed upon once more to suffer. Moreover, it was no
little comfort to call to mind the completeness of the
life which seemed to some so prematurely closed.
Not one item in that programme of work which had
been entrusted to him on reaching Uganda had been
left unfinished or undone. A grammar of .the lan
guage, the Book of Common Prayer, the whole Bible
translated into the vernaciUar — the latter a stupendous
work indeed — aU had been completed. A founda
tion had been laid on which a mighty superstructure
of truth might with the blessing of God be reared.

94 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book IV.
It was as though his prayer had been —
' Let me not die before I have done for Thee
My earthly work, whatever it may be.
Call me not hence, with mission unfulfilled :
Let me not leave my space of ground untiUed :
Impress this truth upon me, that not one
Can do my portion that I leave undone.'
Pilkington's was a strenuous hfe also because the
motive power was an irresistible one — love, love to
God and man. " You know how he loved us," said
H. W, Duta in writing to Millar when the news of his
death reached Mengo, Yes, as Wordsworth has it —
' Life is energy of love, Divine or human.'
And so Pilkington lived his hfe and did his work, urged
on by this divine energy — the energy of Divine Love,
Wearily the siege of Luba's dragged on, until at
length, on January 9th, it was discovered that the fort
had been evacuated and the remnant of the mutineers
had crossed the Nile and were in full flight in the
direction of Bunyoro, They were pursued and over
taken by Captains Harrison and Malony, R,A,, at a
place called Kabagambe, where a fierce engagement
ensued in which the latter was killed. The result,
however, was the defeat of the mutineers, who took
refuge in the swamps around Lake Kioga.
But not yet was the trouble over. At the very
crisis of the mutiny tidings came of the escape of
Mwanga from the custody of the Germans at Mwanza,
and of his landing in Budu. Had he expected to play
the part of a Napoleon returning from Elba as the
dehverer of his country he must have been sorely dis
appointed. It is true that the smouldering embers of
insurrection in Budu were for a brief space fanned into
a flame, but it soon died down when Major Macdonald,

Chap. 30] GATHERING CLOUDS 95
leaving for a time in Captain Woodward's hands the
siege of Luba's, made his appearance upon the scene.
Mwanga hastened to join hands with Kabarega of
Bunyoro, and with him sought refuge in the Bukedi
country on the east bank of the Nile. There for the
present we will leave him, while we take up the thread
of our story in the coast districts.

BOOK y
SOWING AND REAPING

CHAPTER XXXI
SUSPENSE
' Say not, 'twas all in vain.
The anguish and the darkness and the strife :
Love thrown upon the waters comes again
In quenchless yearnings for a nobler Hfe.'
A. Shipton.
As we came to an anchor in Mombasa harbour on
November 25, 1897, on my arrival in East Africa for
the third time, I was greeted with the startling in
telligence that Uganda was " lost." " What do you
mean ? " was my instant inquiry. Then came the
story of the mutiny of the Sudanese already detaUed,
with numerous additions, the offspring of wild rumour.
The road to Uganda, it was said, was blocked, the
missionaries had probably been murdered, sharing the
fate of Thruston, WUson, and Scott ; the Mohammedans
of Uganda had joined hands with the mutineers, a
Mohammedan kingdom had been estabhshed with Mbogo
at its head, and it was added that if Great Britain stiU
wished for a position of supremacy in the Lake region,
it would be necessary to send an expedition to conquer
the country.
All this was circumstantial enough, but I found on
inquiry that it needed confirmation. Of the fact of
II ^ G

98 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
the mutiny and the fate of Thruston and his com
panions there could be no doubt, but aU the rest was
pure conjecture.
I immediately set to work to make arrangements
for starting up country at once, but found myself
absolutely unable to move. No porters were to be
had. Every available man was being laid hold of
for the service of the Government. Sikhs, Baluchis,
and Swahihs were being despatched to the front as
fast as transport became avaUable. The raUway, which
had now reached Voi, was of enormous service. Already
it had justffied its construction. It is not too much
to say that but for the raUway Uganda would probably
have been lost to us, at any rate for a time.
In the meanwhile two parties of missionaries were
on the way to Uganda — one under the leadership of
Hubbard, consisting of Hattersley and Force-Jones.
The other was a party of four — Maddox, Ecob, Borup,
and Roscoe, the latter being the leader. Both parties
were detained some time at Kikuyu by the authorities,
but were ultimately aUowed to proceed to Mumia's.
On the way, however, a sad misadventure happened.
Hubbard, whose party was some weeks in advance of
Roscoe's, was accidentally shot by one of his com
panions near the Eldoma Ravine. He was carried on
in a hammock, and after considerable delay, owing to
the disturbed condition of the country, reached Mengo,
where in spite of aU that Dr. Cook could do for him he
died on March 9th.
Hubbard was a man of considerable abihty and force
of character, and his loss was a great blow to the work
at Nasa which he had made peculiarly his own.
In the meanwhUe I was having a very busy time at
the coast. The most pressing need appeared to be a
church for the ever growing Enghsh community. The

Chap. 31] SUSPENSE 99
raUway staff had greatly mcreased during the last
twelve months, and the number of Government officials
was increasing in proportion. Mombasa was becoming
a very busy place. Hitherto English services, by kind
permission of the Consul-General, had been held in the
Commissioner's office. But not only was the accom
modation unsuitable, but it was also insufficient.
In these circumstances I caUed a meeting of the
principal members of our congregation — raUway and
Government officials and others — to consider the ques
tion of the buUding of the Hannington Memorial Church,
Two or three years previously it had been decided not
to buUd it in Freretown, as was originaUy proposed,
but in Mombasa, the future capital of British East
Africa, The question now to be decided was whether
the time had come for beginning the work or whether
it shoiUd be deferred to a later date, when it would be
easier to judge of the possible requirements of the
community, and in the meanwhUe to buUd a temporary
church. After considerable discussion the latter scheme
was adopted, and a committee was appointed to coUect
funds (£400 was the sum required), prepare a plan, and
carry it into execution.
Mi. Sinclair of H.M.'s Consular service — a skilful
architect — most kindly sketched out a plan. A fine
site was secured, funds rapidly came in — the officials
being most generous in their gifts — contracts were
entered into, and within four months the church was
practicaUy finished.
It was whilst paying one of my numerous visits to
Mombasa at this particular time that an incident
happened which opened up again, in a very definite
and complete way, the question of the continuance of
the legal status of slavery in British East Africa.
It was in this wise. I was standing late one after-

100 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
noon talking to a friend outside the Mission-house
when a young Swahih woman, who was being pursued
by a number of men, ran up and took refuge behind
me. The men immediately attempted to seize her.
This I resisted, and ordered them to retire to a distance
whUe I inquired of the woman the reason of her flight,
and of her evident distress. She told me that she was
a slave, and that Sheik Uwe, one of the men who had
attempted to lay hold of her, was her master ; he had
treated her very crueUy and had threatened to strangle
her. She had run away because she was afraid of him
and beheved that he would put his threats into execu
tion. Placing the poor girl in the kindly care of Mrs.
Burt in the Mission-house, I told Sheik Uwe that he
might caU the next morning at nine o'clock when he
would be told what action I proposed to take. In the
meantime I inquired very carefuUy into the circum
stances of the case, and came to the conclusion not
merely that the girl had a right to her freedom on the
ground of cruelty, but also on the ground of having been
illegaUy enslaved in the first instance.
I at once communicated with the Sub-Commissioner,
and on behalf of the girl, Klieri Karibu, claimed her
freedom. This was the beginning of a long lawsuit
which dragged on for nearly three months. Regardless
of the adage, " He that is his own lawyer has a fool
for his chent," I undertook to conduct the case per-
sonaUy on behalf of this slave girl. As a matter of fact
it was Hobson's choice. I had no funds at my disposal
with which to employ counsel, and must needs act
personaUy or aUow the girl to be dragged back into
slavery. The latter alternative was unthinkable. I
therefore plimged at once into the case, got my witnesses
together, and dragged out from the musty archives of
the Administration every decree that had ever been

Chap. 31] SUSPENSE 101
issued on the slave question. In the study of these
latter I burnt the midnight oU untU my dreams were
of slaves, law courts, and judges. However, I mastered
them so that they were at my fingers' ends.
In pleading the cause of this slave girl, Kheri Karibu,
I based my claim for her freedom on six grounds, five
of which involved points of law and one of fact. I
asked the judge to adjudicate, first of aU, on the points
of law raised in the case, and afterwards if necessary on
the question of fact. I was very desirous of obtaining
the freedom of the girl on a point of law, rather than
on the question as to whether she had been crueUy
treated or not. A point of law decided in her favour
would probably affect thousands of other slaves,
whereas a verdict on the question of fact would only
affect the girl herself.
Two Mohammedan doctors of the law were caUed in
as assessors, to assist the judge (Crauford) in the inter
pretation to be given to the decrees of the Sultan of Zan
zibar as they were pleaded in the course of Jthe action.
It was a very curious experience to notice day by
day, as I passed to the Court-house from my boat
which had brought me from Freretown, the lowering
brows and the fierce looks cast upon me by the Arabs
and Swahihs hanging about the landing-stage and the
precincts of the Court, and to feel that but for the fact
that they had seen and felt something of the power
of Great Britain they would gladly, then and there,
have fallen upon me and ended the question so far as
I was concerned of the slave girl's freedom.
StUl more curious an experience was it to sit, day
after day, in a Court-house over which the British
flag was flying, and to plead the cause of a slave before
a judge, a British subject holding her Majesty's Com
mission, and to see the depositions taken down on

102 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA {Book V,
paper embossed with the royal arms, and to hear the
processes of the Court read out in the name of the
Queen of England, and to know that there was a
possibihty of the slave being sent back into bondage.
At times one almost doubted the evidence of one's
senses. Was it a fact, as the Attorney-General averred,
that a " British subject, no matter in what service
or employment he may be engaged, is breaking the
British law and is exposing himself to penalties if he
takes part in restoring to his master, or otherwise
depriving of his hberty, any person on the sole ground
that he is a fugitive slave," Surely such a dictum
made the law clear and plain. The slave was in the
custody of the Court, The Court was precluded from
handing her back into slavery by the law as laid down
by the Attorney-General, My appeal, however, was
fruitless, and judgment was given against me on this
point. Had the case rested solely on this contention
the girl would doubtless have been handed back into
slavery, HappUy, however, I had raised four other
points of law, and on one of these judgment was given
in my favour. I had pleaded the decree of AprU 18,
1876, by which the bringing of raw slaves to the coast
was forbidden. It was proved in evidence that the
girl had been bought by a SwahUi at Jomvu, near
Mombasa, in 1884 or 1885, and that she was a Mkamba
by birth. It was clear, therefore, that she was a raw
slave at the time of her importation to the coast district.
The judge was inclined to hold that the Sultan's pro
clamation only referred to slaves coming from the
Nyassa and Yao districts, but the assessors held that
in their view it referred to any raw slaves brought from
any country whatsoever of the interior. This inter
pretation was accepted by the Court and the girl
obtained her freedom.

Chap. 31] SUSPENSE 103
The far-reaching character of this decision was, I
beheve, Httle realised by the Mohammedan assessors to
whose interpretation of the decree the judgment was
due, or I hardly think they would have ventured to
identify themselv^ with such a pronouncement. It
practicaUy declared that three-fourths of the slaves
then Hving in Mombasa and the coast districts of the
Sultanate of Zanzibar were UlegaUy held in bondage
and ought to be confiscated. Its bearing on the
abohtion question was very close. It was held by the
Government that abohtion without compensation was
impossible, inasmuch as Sir Arthur Hardinge, on
taking over the territory in 1895, had expressly stated
that the customs of the Arabs and Swahihs would not
be interfered with. This was interpreted to mean that
the institution of slavery would be maintained. ShoiUd
Great Britain therefore wish to abolish it, compensa
tion must of necef->;ity be given for aU slaves freed who
were legaUy in bondage. The declaration by the
Provincial Court of Mombasa that every slave who
had been imported from " up country " since April 18,
1876, was illegaUy held, reduced almost to vanishing
point the amoimt that would be due in the way of
compensation. ShoiUd the Government therefore re
solve courageously to face the situation and abohsh
a condition of things which is a disgrace to our pro
fession of national righteousness, the way was made
easy by this notable decision.
Early in the new year I paid a visit to Jilore. The
passage to Mahndi in the Sultan's steamer, the Ba/rawoa,
was not an unpleasant one although made by night.
The wind was light and the sea comparatively calm.
At 8 o'clock in the morning we had reached our destina
tion and were at anchor. Hooper very kindly came
to meet me, and before the day was far advanced we

104 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
were weU on our way to Jilore, where we arrived a
little before sunset. It was a great joy to be back
once more at the scene of so much self-denying labour,
and where God was so manifestly aiding and blessing
the labours of His servants.
Since my last visit another of the noble band of
workers had passed to his rest and to his reward.
Mr. Barham had fallen a victim to the dreaded black-
water fever.
Another sorrow which weU-nigh crushed to the earth
the leader of the Mission was the fall of Gona, the most
loved and most trusted of all the native workers.
But stiU, in spite of aU their trials and sorrows. Hooper
and his fellow-worker Roberts were full of hope as to
the future of the work ; and indeed I saw on every
hand manifest signs of progress. At Dagamura, on
the further side of the Sabaki river, a very definite
step forward had been taken. There I found a large
church with a numerous congregation, with a resident
teacher at work named Jacob. At Basti, too, on the
same bank of the river, a similar work was going
forward On Sunday, January 9th, I preached to a large
congregation from the text, " Dost thou believe in tbe
Son of God ? " (S. Luke ix. 35), and confirmed some
fifteen candidates. Shortly after the conclusion of the
service a messenger from Malindi made his appearance
with a telegram. I opened it at once. It was from
Sir Arthur Hardinge conveying to me the sad news of
the death of Pilkington.
" I was dumb and opened not my mouth because
it was Thy doing." These words of the Psalmist
literaUy describe our attitude before God at this
mysterious dispensation of His Providence, Hooper
and I could but look at one another and bow the knee

Chap. 31] SUSPENSE 105
in prayer as we sought to give expression to aU that
was in our hearts.
It was dear from the telegram that news from Uganda
had reached the coast. What further information was
there as to events up country ? It was essential that
I should know as soon as possible. I therefore de
termined at once to return to Mombasa. As there
was a full moon a night's march would be quite practi
cable. Porters were easily obtained, and by 10 o'clock
I was off. It was a weird march through the forest,
the giant trees casting their deep shadows across the
path as they weaved their fantastic branches across the
midnight sky, ghttering as with a mUhon gems, and it
was a merciful escape from the glare and scorching heat
of a march by day. As we drew near to the shambas
(garden) on the outskirts of Malindi, " the cock crew,
and dayhght dawned clear." I am afraid one's im
patience took ill the information that not till the
evening would there be a dhow starting for Mombasa,
and that only a very smaU one. I was constrained to
possess my soul in patience, and spent the day sketching
some of the most picturesque bits in and around
Malindi. At 8.30 p.m. I went on board, but alas ! there
was no wind. Whisthng was no good. There was
nothing for it but to wait for the midnight breeze.
Weariness overcame me at length and I dropped fast
asleep. The next thing I was conscious of was that
we were rushing through the water at the rate of seven
or eight knots an hour. I looked at my watch. It
was 4.45 A.M. On making inquiries I found that we
had started at 3.30 a.m. A good breeze springing up
at 3 A.M. had enabled the master to get the vessel out
of the bay, and soon we were being carried along the
coast with a fair wind behind us, and every prospect
of a good passage.

106 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
I know of no more dehghtful experience than that
of thus running before a fair wind in the Indian Ocean.
It is an experience never to be forgotten. The azure of
the sky, the glow of the sunshine, the ghtter of the
sails, the swish of the waters at the bows of the craft
as she cleaves her way onward, the surge of the sea,
the darting of the swaUows, the flying of the fish, the
songs of the saUors, the cry of the helmsman, are aU
sights and sounds which impress themselves indehbly
on the mind of one who, hke myself, has had the good
fortune thus to enjoy the wonderful experience of such
a voyage as that which brought me into Mombasa
harbour at noon on Tuesday, January 11th.
Immediately on landing I had an interview with the
Sub-Commissioner, who gave me aU the information
at his disposal with regard to events in Uganda. I
gathered that, so far, the Enghsh community was safe
and in no immediate danger. Reinforcements were
being pushed on as rapidly as possible, and it was
beheved that the faU of Luba's coiUd not long be
delayed. Could the Government assist me with five-
and-twenty or thirty porters ? was my next question.
Impossible ! was the reply. " Every avaUable man is
needed by the mihtary authorities, and no civUian has
the shghtest chance of getting up country. Even if
he were able to get to Kikuyu his porters would then
be requisitioned by the mUitary."
I saw that there was no help for it, and that I must
abandon all hope of getting to Uganda for the present.
There was plenty of work, however, to be done in the
coast districts. From January 20th to the 24th I was
occupied with a visit to Rabai, where I confirmed 175
candidates, 101 of whom were women. The prosecu
tion of the case of Kheri Karibu (the fugitive slave) in
the Provincial Court, involving a daily attendance, filled

Chap. 31J SUSPENSE 107
up the remaining days of the month, I was then free to
start on my long promised visit to Teita and Taveta,
Hitherto my journeys to Taveta had been on foot,
a fortnight of precious time being consumed on the
way. There had been the daily " grind " of twelve
or fifteen miles, in scorching heat or drenching storms,
the " toihng on " when feehng fevered or below par,
the desertion of porters, and the thousand and one
worries incidental to hfe on the road.
But now all was changed. The old order of things
had passed away. Nineteenth century forces were
now at work, and aU things were becoming new ; the
railway had reached Voi, one hundred miles from the
coast, and the journey was now to be done under
entirely new conditions.
^Taking our places in the train leaving KUindini at
6.20 a.m. on Friday, February 4th, Binns and I were
soon engaged in the pleasant task of comparing the
past with the present. " Look ! there is the path
along which we tramped when the scorching sun seemed
intolerable and the camp ever so far off. And over
yonder is the spot where we met the Waduruma who
told us that the Masai on the warpath were not far
away, and you remember how ten of our men bolted,
leaving us in the lurch ; and there are the Taro water
holes. How hard we found it to get water and how
filthy it was when it was got,"
With such reminiscences of the old days, now passed
away for ever, we beguiled the tedium of the way until
at 3 P.M. Voi was reached. Three hours later we were
at SagaUa and being warmly welcomed by Wray and
his wife.
Thus a journey which three or four years before had
occupied eight days, was easily accomphshed in almost
as many hours.

108 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
We spent three days at this most interesting but so
far unfruitful field of work. That the Wateita had
been impressed by the patience and imwearied labours
of Wray in their midst was evident. At the signal
for the Sunday service some two hundred souls came
together, to whom it was my privUege to declare once
more in their hearing the way of salvation. At the
afternoon service Binns preached to some ninety men
and women. I found that thirty or forty chUdren were
under instruction. This latter appeared to me to be
the most hopeful feature in the work. If the chUdren
are got hold of, the future is assured.
On Monday we paid a visit to what may be caUed
the " place of the skuU " — a Golgotha of the Wateita.
In the deep and dark recesses of a wood on the heights
overlooking Maimgu, it is the custom of the Wateita
of SagaUa to deposit the skuUs of their dead. Of course,
as they are exposed to the action of the atmosphere,
a process of decomposition is continuaUy going on ;
but nevertheless, when I visited the spot under Mr.
Wray's guidance, there was a huge pUe of several
hundred skulls to be seen. It was a ghastly sight, and
one turned away, sick and sad at heart to think that
the great majority of those represented by these skuUs
had passed into eternity without having heard one
word of Jesus Christ, " the mighty to save."
The next day we continued our journey to Taveta,
sleeping at Mitate, and then on the foUowing day we
journeyed on to a camp two hours beyond Bura. From
thence we hoped in one march to reach Lanjuro, some
five-and-thirty mUes away across the plains of Serengeti.
Starting at 3.30 a.m. we made good use of the cool hours
of the early morning, so that by sunrise we were weU
out on the plains. It was a wonderful sight, as the
mists cleared away, to see the vast herds of big game

Chap. 31] SUSPENSE 109
scattered about in almost every direction. Here were
hartebeests, there zebras in scores, yonder were giraffes,
and away in the distance buck of various kinds. I
dared not attempt to shoot, as our journey was so long
that any delay in skinning and cutting up an animal
would destroy our chance of reaching our destination
in dayhght. However, somewhat later, the sight of a
magnfficent ostrich slowly making its way eastward on
the hne of the horizon about half a mile away, scattered
my good resolutions to the winds, and I prepared for
action. Happily there was a large number of anthiUs
between me and the bird which I so coveted, and I
managed by creeping from one to another to get within
400 yards. I put up the sight, and taking steady aim,
fired. The bird was down in an instant, and stone dead
by the time I reached it. It was a great prize, with
magnfficent plumes which I was not slow to appropriate,
whilst the Wateita porters who were with me lost no
time in securing the leg sinews for bow-strings.
Later in the afternoon it became evident that we
had miscalculated the distance, and that there was
no chance of reaching our camping-place before sunset.
Our porters had been left far behind. It was a water
less land we were tramping through. Our only hope
of much needed refreshment was in reaching Lanjuro,
where Mr. Verbi had promised to meet us with tins of
water from Taveta, ten miles further on.
' Now came still evening on, and
Twihght gray had in her sober livery aU things clad,'
and still no sign of a weU-known Mbuyu tree which we
knew to be near the trysting-place. Darkness fell and
walking became very difficult. We stumbled along,
however, untU nearly 8 o'clock, when I suggested that
we should fire our guns as a signal. Possibly there

110 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
might be some response. We fired three shots and
then waited. In a few minutes, to our great dehght,
we heard the reply—three shots apparently about
half a mile away. On we went untU hght became
visible, and Verbi, with a number of torch-bearers,
met us.
It was with no httle thankfulness that I flung myself
down a few minutes later, not far from a blazing camp
fire, and drank cup after cup of tea which had been
most thoughtfuUy prepared for us.
There was no sleep to be had that night. The hyaenas
howled around us, and came so close that one almost
expected them to raid our camp. AU that one could
do was to he upon the ground wrapped in a rug, and
look up at the wonderful tracery of the tree branches
over our heads as they glowed in the hght of our camp
fire. Our porters arrived at about midnight, and by
sunrise we were off again on the road to Taveta, which
was some nine mUes away.
Since my last visit there had been a great advance
made in the work. This had been largely due to an
increase in the staff, which now included three ladies
within its ranks. A new church had been buUt, mainly
by the boys under training in the Mission.
On Sunday a congregation numbering 276 assembled
for divine worship, and on the Wednesday following
I had the great joy of confirming some eighteen men
and women.
On the same day the Consul-General (Sir A. Hardinge)
arrived with a staff consisting of Dr. Macdonald, Mr.
Dundas, and Mr. Whitehead. Thus the tmy Repubhc
of Taveta in its forest home was invaded at this par
ticular time by no fewer than twelve Europeans. It
was a sign (had the Wataveta only been ahve to its
signfficance) that the old order of things was passing

Chap. 31] SUSPENSE 111
away. Not yet has it come to pass that the warrior
caste has disappeared, some years must elapse before
that wUl happen. But the raiding and the actual
shedding of blood, as m the old days, is practicaUy a
thing of the past. For a few years longer, perhaps,
the " young bloods " wUl grease and paint their bodies,
wiU stalk about with their spears and shields, wUl try
to look the thing they are not ; but it is aU a sham — the
new world has come in contact with the old, and its
irresistible forces wUl in time sweep everything before
them. In the meanwhUe the Church's work, so weU
begun in Taveta, wUl, with God's blessing upon it, guide,
direct, and control these new forces, untU those forest
glades, now dark with sin and sorrow, shaU be iUumined
by the Sun of Righteousness, Who is even now arising
with heahng in His wings.
On Thursday, February 17th, I said " good-bye " to
aU my loved feUow-workers, Europeans and natives.
It was no ordinary fareweU. I felt that in aU pro
babUity I should never see Taveta again ; and it was
endeared to me by many sacred memories. I had
known it before there was a single Christian hving
within its shady bowers, when heathenism, hke black
night, brooded within its borders. But now, thank
God, I was leaving behind me a noble band of workers,
a hving Church gathered out from among the heathen,
hving witnesses for Christ, who henceforth. Sabbath by
Sabbath, woxUd meet within the walls of yonder church,
and round the table of their Lord would commemorate
His dying love.
Commending both work and workers to God and the
power of His grace I started on the coastward journey,
reaching Voi on Monday the 21st, just in time to catch
the train to Mombasa, where I arrived at 2 a.m. the
next morning.

112 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
Among the letters which I found awaiting my arrival
was one from Hooper teUing me the sad news of the
death of !Miss Goyen. This determined me at once
to raise the question before the C.M.S. Committee of
the continuance of JUore as a fit place for the residence
of European missionaries. To give up the work was
not to be thought of, but it was quite possible for it
to go on under the supervision of European missionaries
hving at some healthy spot within some reasonable
distance. It might even come to pass that the absence
of immediate control would lead to a stronger and
healthier growth in the spiritual hfe of the native
Christians. After considerable discussion it was decided to ask
Binns to make a journey in the neighbourhood, with a
view to some undoubtedly healthy site being obtained
where European missionaries might hve with less risk
to their hves, and yet the supervision of the JUore
work not suffer.
In the meanwhUe the news had reached the coast
of the raising of the siege of Luba's and the consequent
opening up of the road to Uganda.
This welcome intelligence made my way quite clear,
and I commenced at once to make preparations for
the up country journey. On March 16th Millar arrived
in the maU from England. He was to be my traveUing
companion and most kindly made himself of the utmost
possible service to me, both at the coast and on the
road. My last days at the coast were naturaUy very fuU
ones. There was a fareweU visit to pay to Rabai,
then last words in Freretown, and finally in Mombasa.
Thus on ilarch the 24th I was able to start on the long
delayed journey to Uganda.
Although the raUway had now advanced as far as

Chap. 31] SUSPENSE 113
Ngomeni (about twelve mUes beyond the Tsavo river)
there was stiU a long tramp before us of some 550 miles.
This, however, was mainly on high ground and through
healthy districts, and we looked forward to it as a
health-giving exercise, rather than as a toU or labour
to be got through.
As always, so now, the raUway officials were most
kind in furthering our enterprise and making our
journey an easy one. Mr. CruUishank especiaUy did
everything in his power to help us, as also did Messrs.
Church, CartmeU, and others. We owe one and aU
a deep debt of gratitude.
And so we were brought on our way to Ngomeni
and started on our onward caravan journey. Our
porters and boys, of course, had traveUed with us.
Kinani, Mtoto Ndei, Msongoleni, were aU reached in
due course and left behind. Then came a brief rest at
Kibwezi, then on again, day by day, doing our twelve
or fifteen mUes to KUungu, where the river-bed march
known to aU traveUers in those days had to be endured,
a trial both of patience and physical powers.
At Machakos we were welcomed once again by Mr.
Ainsworth, the Sub-Commissioner, always kind and
helpful. Here we met Mr. and Mrs. Rowhng on their
way to the coast, and the next day as we journeyed on
towards Kikuyu we came upon Pike and Leakey, both
homeward bound. Then across the Athi plain, braced
up and invigorated by the fresh crisp air, we made
our way to Nairobi, where in a year or two's time were
to be planted down the central works and headquarters
of the Uganda raUway.
At Kikuyu (Fort Smith) the sad inteUigence reached
us of the death of Hubbard at Mengo. We had hoped
that the skUful treatment of Dr. Cook might have
restored him. But it was impossible. The lapse of
II H

114 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
time since the accident had been too great, and on
March 9th he entered into his rest.
Down we went into the Kidong VaUey — the great
Rift VaUey — and over the pass of Longonot untU the
Lake at Navaisha, gleaming in the sunhght hke a silver
shield, came in sight. Then away we journeyed onward
past Nakuru and Ehnenteita untU the Ravine was
reached, where we rested for a day; after which the
ascent of Man was made, and we found ourselves at an
elevation of over 8000 feet above sea-level. Marching
was now indeed a pleasure. It was almost hke being
in the Highlands of Scotland. One never felt weary,
no matter how long the march, and one was always
hungry. Nor was there any lack of game or the where
withal to satisfy nature's cravings.
Our next resting-place was Nandi, where we were
most kindly and hospitably welcomed by Mr. Jackson
and our old friend Mr. Bagge. Three days later found
us at Mumia's, where an equaUy warm welcome was
extended to us by Mr. S. Tomkins, whose courage
and presence of mind had saved the fort from capture
by the mutineers.
We had now left the bracing air of the uplands and
found ourselves in the softer and mUder chmate char
acteristic of the Lake region. Crossing the Nzoia river
we continued our journey through the Samia district
of Kavirondo, and on the fifth day after leaving
Mumia's entered Busoga, with its wealth of plantain
groves and abundant food supply.
On May the 12th we arrived at Luba's, where we
found Weatherhead in charge. Of course one of the
first things we did was to visit the scene of the late
siege. The fort was indeed a very remarkable sight.
The skUl shown by the Sudanese in burrowing in the
ground was extraordinary, and we could weU under-

Chap. 31J SUSPENSE 115
stand as we gazed upon the underground dweUings
which they had made for themselves how httle damage
had been done by the Hotchkiss gun, and the rffie fire
of Macdonald's force. It was quite clear that any
attempt to storm the fort must have been defeated
with heavy loss, so complete were the defences.
The next day we crossed over in canoes to Lugumba's,
on the Uganda side of Napoleon Gulf, and twenty-four
hours later reached Ngogwe, where we received, from
the crowds of people who came out to meet us, the
warmest possible welcome. In the evening Dr, Cook
and Martin HaU arrived from the Lake shore, so that
we were a party of seven missionaries gathered together
with much to talk about, and much to thank and praise
God for in the partial suppression of the mutiny, the
preservation of the English community from a position
of real danger, and for the progress of the work, not
withstanding most adverse conditions.
It was a great joy on the foUowing day to lay hands
in Confirmation on some 124 candidates (61 men,
63 women). The onward journey to Mengo was a time
of continuous welcome, either from native friends, hke
old Isaya, meeting us on the road, or by letter brought
by special messengers. At Kisalosalo, our last camping
place, advantage was taken of the opportunity afforded
by the crowds thronging my tent for a thief to carry
off my mackintosh coat. The next morning, of course,
was very stormy (the weather had been fine aU the
way from the coast), and shortly after leaving our camp
we were overtaken by a downpour of rain which
drenched us to the skin. If the thief had only post
poned his theft of my property one other day I should
have been most grateful.
And so it came to pass that on May 18th we reached
our destination and entered the capital of Uganda hke

116 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
a couple of half-drowned rats. In consequence of the
heavy rain there were comparatively few people to
meet us on the road. But when the storm-clouds had
cleared, my house was thronged till late in the evening
by native friends, such as the Katikiro and Samwih
Mukasa, all full of their congratulations and joy at our
arrival once more among them.

LOOKING OUT FROM THE BISHOP'S STUDY, UGANDA

CHAPTER XXXII
A REVIEW OF THE SITUATION
' There's a Divinity which shapes our ends.
Rough hew them how we may.' Shakespeare.
Our first inquiries on arriving in Uganda were naturaUy
devoted to the condition of the work and the pohtical
situation. Was the power of the mutineers com
pletely broken ? Where was Mwanga ? Was Gabrieh
stUl at large ? What was Kabarega doing ? These
were questions which foUowed each other in rapid
succession as I sought to gain a thorough knowledge
of the actual position of affairs.
The mutineers, I learnt, were stUl giving trouble,
although it was beyond question that their power was
broken. In the neighbourhood of Kisahzi and Mruh
they were stiU in considerable force. But Cols. Evatt
and Broome were on their track, and it was anticipated
that before long they would be completely crushed.
Mwanga was still roaming about in Bunyoro, whUst
Kabarega was striving to keep him at arm's length.
" Get out," was his response to the former's overtures.
" Get out of this. It is you who have caused aU this
trouble and brought these Europeans upon me." But
in spite of this uncompromising attitude, a common
misfortune, a common enemy, and a common danger
at length brought these two men together, and as has
been already mentioned in Chapter XXX., in one
hurried flight they sought refuge and shelter in the
Bukedi country on the east bank of the NUe.
117

118 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
Gabrieh, hke a bird of evil omen, was hovering over
some of the fairest portions of Uganda, and ever and
anon pouncing do'wn on some fertUe garden, ravaging
and desolating without scruple or remorse.
It was not surprising to find that the work of the
Church, in these circumstances, was in many parts of
the country very far from flourishing. In Budu and
North Singo several churches had been burnt down
and the congregations scattered. Baptism and Con
firmation classes at the various centres were, it is true,
stUl being held, but the attendances were fluctuating
and oftentimes disappointingly smaU. But stUl a very
great work was, I was thankful to find, in progress.
The reading of the Scriptures was stiU as great a feature
as ever in the hfe of the people. The whole Bible was
now in circulation, and its sale was steadily increasing.
The attendance at pubhc worship was as large as ever,
and the interest taken in spiritual things seemed as
deep as ever.
In material things also the country appeared to have
made a distinct move forward. The standard of hving
had evidently risen. The native house was now a
better buUt one. The people were better clothed and
lived generaUy in greater comfort. The roads were
better kept, the swamps were better bridged, and the
gardens better cultivated and better kept. In a word,
progress was visible on every hand.
This was especiaUy noticeable in the native adminis
tration of the country. The National Council (Lukiko)
was, under the fostering care of Mr. G. WUson, rapidly
becoming a power in the land. It was an interesting
sight to see this infant parhament at work. Here was
the httle two-year-old king in his gUded chair of state,
with the Katikiro on his right hand and the chiefs of
various degrees each in his order of precedence, and

Chap. 32] REVIEW OF THE SITUATION 119
there at a httle side table were the clerks (natives
trained by ourselves). Matters affecting the welfare
of the people in their various relations in hfe were
thoroughly discussed. Minutes of the proceedings were
taken down by the clerks, and any new laws passed
were submitted to the Commissioner for approval.
One could not but feel thankful that an instrument
so potent for good, and so calculated to promote the
best interests of the country, was being so wisely guided
and fostered by those in authority.
Among other measures adopted by the Lukiko for
dealing with the exigencies of the critical situation of
the time, was the estabhshment of a very complete
postal system. Huts were buUt at intervals of a mUe
along aU the principal roads at which men were
stationed, and in which they were supposed to hve,
ready at aU times, night or day, to be caUed out for
duty. A letter despatched say 100 mUes in the interior
is placed in the hands of a native runner, who at once,
having tied it to the end of a spht reed, starts at fuU
speed holding aloft the missive and shouting at the
top of his voice, " A letter, a letter, it is burning my
hand — a letter, a letter." As he draws near the first
hut on the road he finds a messenger standing ready,
who, with his loins girded, starts off at fuU speed shouting
the same cry, " It's burning my hand." And so, hke
the fiery cross of Scottish hfe of old days, the letter is
speeded on its way imtU in an incredibly short space
of time it reaches its destination.
For important communications such a postal service
was invaluable. But it was often abused. Not in
frequently I have been roused up at one or two o'clock
in the morning with the cry, " A letter, a letter — it's
burning my hand," and on opening the letter I have
found it run something like this : —

120 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
" To MY Friend the Bishop.
" How are you, sir. How have you passed the
day ? All is weU here ; there are no evil tidings to
teU. Farewell. May God take care of you. — I am,
your friend who loves you, " Samwili."
My friend meant weU, but it was distinctly annoying
to be roused up in the middle of the night with such
a communication. With regard to the spiritual condition of the Church,
one could not but feel that the situation was in many
respects full of peril. Comparative wealth was flowing
into the country, large sums of money were being
expended by the Administration. The temptations
accompanying such a changed condition of affairs were
many and great. In writing home at the time I thus
set forth my view of the situation : —
" It is somewhat the fashion just at present to take a
despondent view of things, and to think that because
new temptations are crowding in upon the people that
therefore of necessity there must follow spiritual degra
dation and decadence, if not actual ruin. I cannot
and do not take this view. To do so would be to hmit
the power and to doubt the love of God the Holy
Ghost. The danger, no doubt, is a very real one, but
the fact that we are ahve to its existence and know
something of its subtle character is to my mind an
assurance of victory.
" At the same time there are indications which might
possibly at first sight be taken as signs of spiritual
declension. The most striking of these is the decrease
in the number of young men who are offering themselves
for work as teachers. This, no doubt, is a serious matter,
if we look at it in connection with the prospects of the

Chap. 32] REVIEW OF THE SITUATION 121
work. But to say that it is a sign of spiritual declension
is to go beyond what I think we are warranted in saying
in view of the facts of the case. The crisis through
which the country is passing has necessitated not only
the employment of European missionaries in the defence
of the state, but it has also led to what is practicaUy a
demand for the services of something hke 3000 young
men, who at the present moment are engaged in
facihtating the movement of troops by doing transport
work. This one circumstance wUl, I think, account
for whatever diminution there may be in the number
of those offering themselves for the work of the Church.
Then again it is quite true that from time to time we
are saddened by hearing of this or that one who did
run weU being hindered — of one and another faUing
into sin. In considering cases of this kind we must
not be forgetful of the fact that we are no longer deahng
with hundieds of Christians, as was the case only three
or four years ago, but with thousands. I do not know
that the actual percentage of backshders is larger than
it was in the old days, if we may speak of such in the
case of a Church yet in its infancy. But I am thankful
that the alarm has been sounded. It wUl, I am sure,
lead to increased vigUance, more earnest labour, . and
more fervent prayer. It is a time of perU unquestion
ably. The enemies of the Church are gathering their
forces for battle. But ' greater is He that is for us
than aU that be against us.' ' Blessed is the Lord
our strength, which teacheth our hands to war and our
fingers to fight.' ' The Lord of Hosts is with us, the
God of Jacob is our refuge.' "
Such were the circumstances in which, in May 1898, 1
commenced my fourth visitation of the Uganda portion
of my jurisdiction. In something hke three weeks I
was able to confirm no fewer than 772 candidates.

122 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
In the midst of the busy rush of visits to Ngogwe,
Nakanyonp, Gayaza, and Waluleta entailed by these
engagements, two solemn events happened which re
minded us forcibly of the days of peril through which
the Mission had recently passed and was in fact even
then passing.
The first of these was the terrible punishment which
on May 21st was inflicted on nine Sudanese mutineers
and three Mohammedan Baganda, who had been taken
in rebeUion, red-handed. They were marched out of
prison in the fulness of health and strength, placed with
their backs to the ramparts of the fort where squads
of Sudanese soldiers were drawn up, the signal was
given, and in a few minutes their hfeless corpses were
being conveyed to their last resting-place. It was a
terrible act of retribution, but apparently a sad neces
sity. It made a deep impression, not merely on the
Sudanese population, but on the Baganda generaUy.
The second of these solemn events was the burial
on Namirembe, on May 23rd, of the remains of those
Enghsh officers who had lost their hves during the
mutiny. There were six altogether, of whom Major
Thruston and Messrs. WUson and Scott were murdered
at Luba's.
The procession was headed by the Indian contingent
marching with slow and measured tread with arms
reversed. Then came the coffins, covered each one
¦with a Union Jack. After which walked the Com
missioner and Major Macdonald, with other mihtary
and civil officers. The members of the Mission, with a
large number of Baganda chiefs, brought up the rear.
The Archdeacon and I shared between us the solemn
duty of reading the service, I taking the prayers at
the graveside and the words of the Committal : " Earth
to earth, ashes to ashes, dust to dust,," The hymn.

Chap, 32] REVIEW OF THE SITUATION 123
" Hush, blessed are the dead," was sung with much
feeling, and then came the three voUeys, and the " Last
Post " with the bugles, and aU was over.
The glorious fact that the great Head of the Church
is ever guiding and controlling the movements of those
whom He has put in authority imder Him, was never
more signaUy reahsed in my experience than when
early in July I essayed to visit the Mission in Usukuma.
I had been in much doubt and perplexity. Usukuma
or Toro was the question which had agitated my mind
for some weeks. The caU from both places was a loud
one. To which should I respond? I had made it a
matter of much prayer, and yet it was with considerable
doubt in my mind that I gave the order to proceed to
Munyonyo, where the Ruwenzori (the Record Fund
steam-launch) was lying at anchor. I had decided
for Usukuma. " Man proposes but God disposes."
On arriving at the Lake shore I was met with the tidings
that the Ruwenzori's boUer had broken down, and that
two or three weeks would be needed for repairs. The
way was blocked. There was nothing for it but to
retrace our steps to Mengo. Was God calling me to
Toro ? Was this the meaning of the obstacle placed
in my path ? Not long was I left in doubt. As I drew
near to Namirembe messengers met me in hot haste
with letters from Toro. The king, Katikiro, Lloyd,
and Buckley aU had written asking me to come, and
begging me not to delay my departure, as questions of
the greatest importance needed my presence.
Surely here was an answer to aU one's prayers and a
resolving of aU one's doubts. The Lord was unques
tionably caUing me to Toro, and to Toro I determined
at once to go.
I commenced immediately my arrangements for my
journey, and as Dr. Cook was as anxious as I was to

124 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
see what opportunity there might be for extension of
medical missionary work westward, I invited him to
accompany me.
We made our start on Thursday, July 7th. As
Gabrieh and the mutineers were stUl roaming about
the country, the Commissioner insisted upon our having
an escort of Baganda soldiers. Although the idea was
hateful to us, nevertheless we yielded to his wishes,
and found ourselves in the care of some dozen very
irregular -looking Baganda armed with muzzle-loaders.
At our second camp they came and informed us that
they were without powder, and asked whether they
might go back in order to procure some. Immensely
amused we sent them back with instructions to foUow
us to Mitiana, where we proposed spending two or
three days.
Here, on Sunday, July 10th, I preached to a large
and attentive congregation, and on the Monday held
a Confirmation and addressed a conference of some
twenty-two of our evangelists and teachers. Our
gaUant escort, faithful to their promise, made theu'
appearance in due course, and in answer to our inquiry
as to whether they were now provided with gunpowder
assured me that they were, but they added most
lugubriously, " Tetuhna e'sasi " (We have no buUets).
This was an undoubted fact, however ridiculous it may
seem. However, we rephed, " Si kigambo " (It does
not matter). We assigned to them the duty of
looking after our cows in our rear, and after leaving
camp in the morning one rarely, if ever, saw them again
untU evening. However, we daUy thanked them for
taking care of us ; thanks which were invariably
accepted without the faintest trace of a smUe, or with
the shghtest idea of the humour of the whole thing.
On leaving Mitiana we made for Bujongolo, some

Chap. 32] REVIEW OF THE SITUATION 125
four hours away, but only to be reached through almost
impassable swamps. For some two hours or more we
battled our way through them. They seemed to be
interminable, one long weary expanse of papyrus and
a waste of waters. At one moment we were up to our
waists, at another we were seeking to maintain a
precarious foothold on the roots and stumps of Makindu
palms, which showed themselves occasionally in our
onward track. Then down we went again into the
mud and slush, only too thankful when we could get
into deep water again. Now and then one caught
sight of a tree top which seemed to indicate that we
were nearing dry land ; but, alas, there was only a
little rising ground where we were able to rest for a
little, and then on we plunged again, slipping and
sliding, tripping and stumbling, until at length, at
the end of two hours, our toils were at an end and we
were once more on terra firma. Half-an-hour's further
march brought us to the chief's enclosure, where a
hearty welcome awaited us.
Two days later (St. Swithin's Day) we had such an
experience of the weather in Uganda as rarely falls to
the lot of even the most experienced travellers. It
had been bright and fine in the earlier part of the day,
and we were looking forward to reaching our camping
place without any untoward circumstances, when
shortly after mid-day the aspect changed, clouds
gathered, and the distant thunder rolled ominously.
But still we hoped to reach our destination before the
storm which was evidently gathering burst upon us.
" Is it far ? " we inquired of our guide. " Wala nyo,"
was the answer. " Very far." Soon heavy drops began
to faU, and before long the wind rose, and with crashings
of thunder and floods of rain the storm burst in all
its fury. Umbrellas were useless, nor had we them.

126 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
There was no shelter to be found anywhere. There
was nothing for it but to face it. As long as we kept
going there was nothing to be feared. Shelter short
of our destination would be fatal. So onward we went.
The paths had become almost like rushing streams, the
wind howled, the lightning flashed, and the thunder in
appaUing crashes echoed and re-echoed on every side.
But still no camp. On and on we went. One or two
of our porters had manfully struggled along and were
only a few yards behind us, when the one word " ekyalo,"
i.e. " garden," uttered by one of them made us look
up, and sure enough a hundred yards away we were
able dimly to discover through the driving rain some
banana trees beaten and torn by the tempest. The
sight was a gladdening one. It meant that our struggle
was over, and that in a few minutes we should find
shelter, a fire, food and rest. And so it came about.
In a little whUe we found ourselves in a large native
hut, with a blazing fire in the midst. Happily one of
the porters who had kept up with us was carrying
Dr. Cook's bedding. The blankets were soon got out,
and stripping from us every shred of our soaked clothing
we wrapped ourselves in them. Half-an-hour later
the food box made its appearance, and hot tea in hberal
quantities soon removed every risk of chill.
On account of the possibility of being waylaid by
the mutineers, we were travelling by unfrequented
by-paths, the roads were rough and the food scarce,
but still we made good progress, and on July 22nd
arrived at Butiti. The chief, our old friend Yafeti
Byakweyamba, had recently died by his own hand.
Trial and misfortunes of various kinds had so crushed
him that a mind weakened by ill health gave way, and
in a fit of temporary insanity he shot himself. His
successor, a youth named Nasanieri, was by no means

ji'»K^yi»^)>ti,j"i. it^&,

NAKABIMBA, UGANDA

Chap. 32] REVIEW OF THE SITUATION 127
his equal either in presence or in influence. However,
he welcomed us warmly, and in conversation with me
expressed every intention of being an earnest worker
for God.
We were now in touch with Toro. Our approach
had already become known to our friends at Kabarole
(the capital), who inundated us with letters of warm
welcome, as we journeyed on our way thither. Hill
after hill we found crested with little groups of friends
who had come out to welcome us. Here, as we came
to a patch of long grass, there burst forth upon us
Apolo Kivebulaya, with lots of young men and lads,
all brimming over with joy and excitement. There,
marching in regular order, was another detachment of
young men with Sedulaka and Asa Nkangah at their
head. Then came Buckley and his boys with very
welcome refreshment, for which a brief halt by the way
side was called. Then on again tiU the groups of
friends became so numerous that our progress was
greatly hindered. EventuaUy, however, we reached the
Mission hill, on which great crowds were assembled,
and where Kasagama and the Queen-Mother welcomed
us with many expressions of joy at our coming.
A thanksgiving service was held immediately on our
arrival. The church was quickly fiUed from end to
end. A couple of hymns, two or three earnest prayers
and short benediction, that was all, but it was sufficient.
It was the faithful expression of the thankfulness and
gratitude to God which filled all hearts.
It was very delightful to be back once more amongst
people who were in all the joyous freshness of their new
love to God. Their enthusiasm for the Word was
almost as remarkable as that of the Baganda in the
early days. The three or four loads of books which I
had brought with me were all sold in the course of

128 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
two or three days, and I was obhged to send an urgent
message to Mengo for more to be sent.
Toro had not been so seriously affected by the mutiny
and Mwanga's rebeUion as Uganda, Bunyoro, and
Busoga, nor had the work suffered to anything hke the
same extent. There was consequently marked progress
observable in every branch. Several of the great chiefs
had become Christians, and were taking a deep interest
in the work. Among others were the Sekibobo and
the Katikiro. Candidates for Baptism and Confirma
tion were coming forward on every hand, and young
men in increasing numbers were offering to go out into
the country districts as evangelists and teachers.
In the outward aspect of things also a very remark
able change had taken place. Instead of the beehive-
shaped house in which I had lived for a fortnight two
years before, there was now a weU-ordered Mission
station with two dwelhng-houses, one occupied by
Lloyd and the other by Buckley. The old church had
been replaced by a new one capable of seating some
thing like a thousand worshippers. Schoolrooms, too,
had been built, and very dehghtful was it to hear the
children learning their first lesson in the art of reading.
" Eno ' a,' eno 'e,' eno ' i,' " was the sing-song method
(not by any means the best) into which they seemed
naturaUy to have faUen. More delightful stiU was it
to hear them sing some of the songs of Sion. In their
soft and melodious accents they seemed sweeter than
ever. But perhaps most dehghtful of aU was it to see
these children with bowed heads and closed eyes, and
to hear them repeating together that prayer which all
creeds have united in designating as the " Lord's
Prayer." On the hps of these children, so lately
enveloped in heathen savagery, the sacred words, " Our
Father which art in Heaven," seemed invested with a

Chap. 32] REVIEW OF THE SITUATION 129
deeper and fuller meaning than ever before. As at
every halting-place on the way, so at Kabarole itself.
Dr. Cook at once commenced treating the sick and
operating upon aU who came for surgical help. The
first day he had no fewer than 198 apphcants for
medicine, and every succeeding day of our stay showed
an increase. Their numbers and the terrible condition
of many of the poor creatures who came to us for
rehef indicated only too plainly the great need of
medical missionary work in Toro.
As my programme included visits to Katwe and
Mboga — the one near the Albert Edward Nyanza and
the other on the further side of the Semhki river,
involving some 300 miles of traveUing — I was unable
to prolong my stay at the capital, and on July 28th
we started on our way to the former place.
It was an interesting journey. As our road led us
along the lower slopes of Ruwenzori we were able to
see something of the conditions of hfe of the Bakonjo
and other mountain tribes. At Butanuka we found a
promising work in progress under the supervision of a
vigorous young teacher named Yerimiya.
Om" onward journey was by a path which led us
through scenes of the most exquisite beauty. At one
moment we were climbing a steep hiUside, at another
wending our way through sylvan glades in which the
sunhght ghnting upon the tree trunks gUded them
with a glory pecuharly its own, and startling in its
vivid intensity. At another moment we were passing
out into a blaze of sunshine in which butterflies were
darting hither and thither, whilst the hum of bees, the
chirrup of grasshoppers, and the cooing of doves made
the an- resonant with a sweet, low- toned music. Then
there was a river to be crossed, a river of ice-cold water
draining down from the snows of Ruwenzori (the
n I

130 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
Mpuku). Getting across was no easy task. Although
not deep the current was very strong, and every load
needed two or three men to bear it safely to the further
bank. As for ourselves, well ! I needed half-a-dozen
men to carry me, and Dr. Cook nearly as many.
We now found ourselves in an entirely different
country in its outward aspect. The Euphorbia
candelabra was to be seen on every hand interspersed
with that most striking and beautiful of all pahns —
the Borassus palm. The woodland landscape had
given place to rolhng plains. Here and there we came
upon the craters of extinct volcanoes. These in nearly
every instance were filled with salt or brackish water,
whUst their sloping sides were clothed with wood and
luxuriant vegetation of all kinds.
On August 3rd we reached Katwe, and were invited
by the Sudanese officer in charge to take up our quarters
in the fort. This we were very glad to do, as the sun
was very hot and our tents insufferably close. This
fort occupied a position of great natural strength. It
crowned the narrow neck of high land which separates
the Albert Edward Nyanza from the Salt Lake. There
were not a hundred yards of spare room on either side.
Some months previous to our arrival it had been be
sieged by the mutineers of the Congo Free State, who
were attempting to make their way to Toro. But it
had successfully resisted aU attempts to capture it.
The Sudanese officer in charge showed us, with no httle
pride, the bullet marks on the stonework and the
pierced doors and shutters, and told us in graphic terms
the whole story of the fight, and how the Manyema
auxiharies were beaten back again and again, as they
sought by mere force of numbers to effect an entrance.
The most interesting incident of our story at this,
the farthest outpost westward of British rule in Central

KATWE -AN OUTPOST OF THE EMPIRE.

Chap. 32] REVIEW OF THE SITUATION 131
Africa, was a visit to one of the larger islands of the
Albert Edward Nyanza. An hour's paddhng in a
large dug-out brought us to our destination — a large
fishing village built on the very margin of the lake.
The air was redolent with the odour of dried and drying
fish ; and the implements of their craft were being laid
out by the fishermen in every avaUable space where
sun and air could reach them. The men themselves
(we saw httle or nothing of the women) seemed to be
a fine manly race, a branch evidently of the Bakonjo
tribe. They received us at first with some shyness,
but this soon wore off as we squatted in the middle of
the village and sought, by kindly greetings, to assure
them of our friendhness. Dr. Cook then produced his
medicine-chest, and that very soon broke down what
ever remained of their suspicion of us. It was not long
before we had around us at least two hundred stalwart
men hstening with aU their ears, as through an inter
preter we dehvered the Gospel message.
So far we had seen nothing of the chief. We in
quired for him and were told that he was coming in a
short time to pay his respects to us. He was bhnd, we
were told, and would be glad if the doctor could do
anything for him. After waiting a quarter of an
hour the poor man made his appearance. He was led
into the midst by a youth who was said to be his son,
a bright intelhgent boy. We told the poor old man
why we had come — that we were messengers of the
King of kings, and that we sought his good and that
of his people.
At once he wanted to know whether we could give
sight to his bhnd eyes. Dr. Cook examined them, and
came instantly to the conclusion that it was a case of
cataract, and that an operation would certainly give
at the least limited vision. He told him so, and added

132 UGANDA AND BAST AFRICA [Book V.
that if he came over to Katwe in the morning he would
operate, and that he had no doubt of a successful
result. Then said the chief, " Restore me my sight, and
not only I, but all my people, will be taught." After
some further conversation it was decided that the
operation should take place on the following day ; and
we left the island feeling that an impression had been
made, and looking forward to a further opportunity of
pressing the claim of the Gospel on the chief and his
followers on the morrow.
Alas ! we little realised the power of the evil one,
and the influence of the medicine men of the island.
Nine o'clock, the hour appointed, came, and no chief —
nor were any canoes visible on the ghttering surface of
the Lake. Ten o'clock — eleven — and noon came, and
still no chief, and then came a messenger to say that he
was unwell and unable to come. It was, however, as
we found out later, only an excuse, and that he was
really deterred from coming by the all powerful influence
of the witch doctors. However, the day of blessing
for that lone island of the Lake, although not yet, was
nearer than we in our disappointment thought. Twelve
months only were to run their course and a resident
evangelist, from the Church of Toro, was engaged in the
systematic preaching of the Gospel to these simple fisher
folk. But this is anticipating the course of my story.
On August 6th we started on our return journey,
and after recrossing the plain at the foot of the low
shoulder of Ruwenzori, at the extremity of which Katwe
hes, commenced to chmb the lower slopes of the
mountain itself. From Kasamia's we ventured yet
higher, visiting one village after another, where our
teachers were at work, and doing our best to cheer and
encourage them in their self-denying labours. The
time spent in this work was fuU of the most absorbing

Chap. 32] REVIEW OF THE SITUATION 133
interest. That the Gospel itself should have reached
these rugged fastnesses was indeed a marvel of grace,
and that so soon after its first proclamation little con
gregations of believers should be gathered together for
the worship of the one true and loving God, was more
wonderful stiU.
For be it remembered that only recently had the
mists of ages which had enveloped these mountains —
" tlic mountains of the moon " of mythical story —
been rolled away, and their very existence become
known to geographical science. Whether, as we
climbed the mountain side and gazed down into the
deep ravines and barkened to the roaring of the raging
torrents which swept them away to the great lakes,
and so indeed to the sea, or as glancing upward one
caught glimpses of the snow-clad peaks and saw at an
altitude of some 20,000 feet the eternal snows glittering
like burnished silver in the glowing light of noon, or,
whether as pausing in our upward climb and turning
our baclc to the rocky buttress of the mountain side on
which we stood, and looking out into space we saw
stretching far away into misty invisibility the glittering
waters of tlie groat Jjake — tlic Albert Edward Nyanza
— tho impression was still the same, wonderful as are
all those glories and beauties of nature, intense as is
all tliis glowing sunlight, marvellous as are all these
mysterious visions of mountain and streamlet, ravine
and forest, snow and ice ; yet the most wonderful
sight of all — the most awe-inspiring of all — the greatest
miracle of all, was it to see men and women clad in
skins, and in all tlieir surroundings stUl apparently in
their jiriinilive conditions of life, and who a few years
ago wero sitting in darlciicss and the sliadow of death,
yot with bowed heads and rox'orent attitude wore
engaged in the worship of Him Who is tho Way, the

134 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
Truth, and the Life, and whom not having seen they
love, and in whom though now they see Him not yet
they rejoice with joy unspeakable and full of glory.
Our way now led us down to lower ground where
the Mpuku river had to be crossed. The path was, in
many places, almost blocked by the rank growth of
the vegetation. Occasionally we had to make our way
through the tall elephant grass, as through a tunnel.
It was while passing along one of these overgrown
footpaths that we heard the sound of rushing water.
" It is the river ! " I exclaimed. " Let us hurry. The
men in front are sure to attempt to cross without proper
precaution." We ran forward, hoping to be in time to
prevent any attempt to cross. Alas ! we were too late.
On arriving on the river bank I had the mortification
of seeing a man standing in the middle of the river, and
a box of mine containing sketches, writing materials,
and all that I most valued, being carried away by the
flood. I at once despatched search-parties down both
banks of the river. In the meanwhile, by arranging so
that no load should be taken across unless in charge of
three men, we succeeded in getting everything over in
safety. In about half-an-hour's time, loud shouts in
the distance announced the recovery of my precious
box. A httle later it was carried in in triumph. It
had been swept by an eddy into a quiet pool, and there
it was found, sadly battered by the rocks, and, of
course, full of water. In Africa, however, one learns
to take joyfully the spoiling of one's goods. Happily
there was a hot sun and a bank of silver sand by the
river side. Sketches, paper, books, and clothing were
soon laid out to dry, and although a good deal of damage
had been done it was less than I expected. In half-an-
hour's time it was possible to pack up and resume our
journey.

Chap, 32] REVIEW OF THE SITUATION 135
On August 11th we arrived once more at Kabarole,
the capital of Toro, where we enjoyed four or five
days rest, before starting on a proposed expedition to
Mboga, on the further side of the Semliki, and not far
from the Albert Nyanza,
By this time our porters were getting home-sick.
Six weeks had elapsed since leaving Mengo, and instead
of setting our face homewards, as they had hoped we
would do on reaching Kabarole, we were preparing for
another journey into an unknown country. This was
too much for them, and on the morning of the 13th we
were informed that fourteen of our men had run away
in the night and were " making tracks " for Uganda.
The rest of the men, we were further told, were prepar
ing to follow the example of their comrades. This was
serious. I took prompt measures and put a guard
over the disaffected, and warned them that as they had
received wages for a three months journey they were
expected to fuffil their contract. However, aU my
precautions were in vain. Some few remained faithful,
but the rest managed, in twos and threes, to get away.
I may say that so perfect at this time was the pohtical
organisation of Uganda, that on my return to Mengo,
on bringing the matter to the notice of the Katikiro
and giving him the names of the culprits and their
chiefs, every man was produced within forty-eight
hours, and the money which they had received as
wages was brought to my door. However satisfactory
in its ultimate issue, the immediate consequences of
the mutiny of my porters were inconvenient in the
extreme — not the least of which was the slow going
which resulted from travelhng with such physicaUy
weak porters as the Batoro, who were unable to carry
more than half a load each.
However, we were fortunate in being able to re-

136 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
place our faithless foUowers on any terms. On
Tuesday, August 16th, we started for Mboga with as
sorry a lot of men as it has ever been my fortune to
travel with. The journey was an interesting one.
On the first day we descended the escarpment which
brought us almost down to the level of the Albert
Nyanza, and where the air was heavy and close. But
on the following day we commenced to chmb one of
the shoulders of Ruwenzori, and thus got into a fresher
and more invigorating atmosphere. On reaching the
ridge, after a stiff chmb,, we were rewarded with one
of the most lovely views which even this most beautiful
part of Africa can show. Some 2000 feet below us
was the Semhki river, working its sinuous way in
ghttering glory through the valley which lay between
us and the dark mass of the great forest which Stanley
had so laboriously traversed a few short years before.
Away northward, melting into the far distance, lay
the waters of the Great Lake — the Albert Nyanza —
shimmering in white heat and pearly haze. South
ward, the great buttresses of the mountain on which
we stood shelved downward toward the river, which
was fed not merely by the Albert Edward Nyanza, but
by those rushing streams which, in their headlong
course down the mountain side, filled the air with a
melody which can only fitly be described in the famihar
terms " the sound of many waters."
Plunging down the craggy slope in front of us, it
was not long before we found ourselves in a village of
the Babamba which lay in the valley between.
The people we found to be a simple folk, and not
the least alarmed by our sudden appearance in their
midst. Doubtless they had had ample warning of our
coming, and were evidently prepared to welcome us.
They received us with kindly hospitahty, bringing

THE SEMLIKI VALLEY FROM A SHOULDER OF RUWENZORI

Chap. 32] REVIEW OF THE SITUATION 137
ripe bananas for our refreshment, and doing every
thing in their power to make us comfortable.
Their villages we found to be clean and well kept,
the huts being of the usual beehive shape, but thatched,
not with grass, but with plantain leaves. On every
side we saw tokens of their behef in spirits, and in the
little spirit houses were offerings of all kinds.
The people themselves were almost nude, goat and
other skins being their only covering. In figure they
are a thickset and powerful-looking race. In features,
however, they approach somewhat the Bakonjo type.
Before descending into the valley we had observed
what seemed to be a column of smoke at a distance of
some two or three miles. On inquiry we found that
this was really a column of steam rising up from some
boiling springs, of which we were told there were quite
a number on the other side of a wood which lay be
tween us and them.
Lunch despatched, we salhed forth to pay these
boUing springs a visit. It was a striking scene which
met our view as we issued from the banana plantation
through which we had been wandering during the
latter part of our walk. Columns of steam roUed
upward to a height of 80 or 90 feet, and then as they
caught, or rather were caught, in the breeze, they were
carried hither and thither, untU they melted away into
invisibihty. This steam was issuing from a number of
blow-holes out of which bubbled streams of water aU
at boUing point. This water was held first of aU in
natural rock basins, but as these overflowed it spread
itself over a considerable area of bare rock and soft blue
mud. In the latter, a number of natives had scooped
out large hollows which they were using as baths. The
water was evidently strongly impregnated with sulphur,
and possessed considerable healing virtues, especially in

138 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
the case of skin diseases. People came, we were told,
from long distances to be healed of the oftentimes
terrible diseases from which they suffered. Many
doubtless derived much benefit from the medicinal
properties of these springs. In order to test their
temperature, a bunch of green bananas was put into one
of the bubbhng pools, and in about twenty minutes
was thoroughly cooked.
Our passage of the Semhld the next morning was
not at all an easy matter. " Crocodiles below and
hippos above the place of crossing " was the news
which greeted us as we arrived on the river bank. And
sure enough " up stream " were to be seen a couple of
huge hippos apparently waiting for us. However, I
soon brought my " Martini-Henry " to bear, and after
a short bombardment they disappeared, as also did the
crocodiles, whose shiny backs had been showing up
ominously amid the ghttering waters between the
crossing-place. The river was fuU, and a great volume of water
was making its way at the rate of some three miles an
hour towards the Albert Lake, only a few miles away.
The only means of transit were a few dug-outs of the
most cranky and leaky description. A man in the
bows -with considerable dexterity poled up the river
some hundred yards or so, and driving out into mid
stream we were carried down in the direction of the
landing-place, which as we got into shaUower waters
was easily reached by dexterous pohng. Of course to
get men, loads, and cattle across in this fashion was
a long and tedious operation. We therefore camped
at a distance of some half a mile from the river, and
towards evening had the satisfaction of learning that
everything had been crossed without loss or accident.
Two days later we drew near to Mboga, our destina-

Chap. 32] REVIEW OF THE SITUATION 139
tion. Since leaving the Semhki we had been continually
ascending, and were now at a considerable elevation
above the plain. Sedulaka, one of our teachers from
Mboga, was leading the way, and in answer to my oft-
repeated question, " Are we near ? " he would only re
spond, " Tunatuka " (We shall arrive). At length,
whUe resting and enjoying the refreshment of a cup
of tea, we had a remarkable proof of the fact that we
were not far away from our destination. In a moment
of quiet meditation there burst upon us, with a great
shout, a crowd of young men and boys, at the head of
whom was Apolo Kivebulaya. With cries of welcome
repeated again and again they surrounded us, and
almost knocked us over in their eagerness to get a
shake of the hand, and to teU of their joy at our
coming. We packed up our traps and started once more,
and in less than half an hour met Tabalo himself (the
chief) and a great crowd of followers. Their welcome
was no less warm than that of Apolo and his young
men, but it was less demonstrative. On reaching
Mboga itself the enthusiasm of the people knew no
bounds. They came upon us in great crowds, em
bracing and shaking hands with us again and again,
and thanking us for coming to them. It was most
touching to see their simple trust in us, and the fixed
conviction in their minds that we were in some way to
be a means of blessing to them.
It may be asked, how did Christianity come to this
out-of-the-way place some three hundred miles from
Mengo, and on the outskirts of the Great Forest ? In
telling the story it will be best to transcribe what was
told me at the time, and written down upon the spot.
It was in this wise : —
" The Gospel was first of all preached in Toro by

140 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
Baganda evangehsts. It so happened that in Toro
there were hving temporarUy a number of the people
of Mboga, the chief Tabalo among them. There they
first heard the Gospel story. This led to Baganda
evangehsts being sent across the Semhki river and
setthng amongst these people of Mboga, in whose
hearts the seed had been sown in Toro. The httle
community of readers increased rapidly, and the desire
for a knowledge of the Word seemed to be spreading
when the followers of the Lubare superstition made a
desperate effort to extinguish the hght that seemed
burning so brightly. The chief Tabalo was won back
to his old aUegiance, and at the instigation of the
Lubare priests forbade any one to read the Christian
books. Many, however, had found the Word of God
suited to their taste, and continued their reading in
secret. Several readers were caught and in some cases
crueUy beaten. StiU, however, reading went on. The
Baganda teachers were in hiding, but were secretly sup
plied with the necessaries of hfe by those who would
not desert them in their hour of need. Tabalo, the
chief, consulted one of the divines of Lubare as to their
whereabouts, and was told that they had returned to
Toro. Discovering later, however, that this was not
so and that he had been deceived, he flew into a violent
passion and declared that the Lubare priests were
rogues and liars, and that he would have nothing more
to do with them. He stated further that the God
whose followers he had persecuted was a God of Truth,
and that He should be his God.
" The persecuted behevers, with their leaders, came
out from their hiding-places, and reading went on
openly once more. A church was built, and everything
seemed prospering when the Manyema mutineers broke
into the country and swept everything before them.

THE HOIl.INt; SPKIMIS, TOKO

Chap. 32] REVIEW OF THE SITUATION 141
The church was burnt as weU as the chief's houses,
indeed the whole country was devastated, and once
more the Christians sought refuge in the long grass.
With the passing of the mutineers came a return
of prosperity, when they received another blow by a
most unexpected incident. This was nothing less than
the arrest of our old friend Apolo, the principal teacher,
on a charge of murder. It came about in this way.
A spear had been left outside the house of a Christian
woman named Mariamu, in a most awkward position.
An alarm of some sort was raised outside, and the
poor woman rushed out, tripped and fell, impahng
herself on the spear. The whole thing was a pure
accident, Apolo, however, happened to be passing
near the spot, and hearing the groans of the woman
went to her assistance. Seeing her desperate condition,
he caUed some men near by to come to his help. On
seeing what had happened they accused him of murder
ing the woman. He was brought before the chief, who
sent the prisoner with his accusers to Toro. Owing to
the absence of the officer in charge of the district he
was kept in prison for some time, but on the arrival of
Captain SitweU he was discharged without even the
formahty of a trial."
It was at the same time that I thus wrote of our
two teachers in Mboga, Apolo Kivebulaya (now or
dained) and Sedulaka, already mentioned.
" It would be impossible for me to speak too highly
of both Apolo and Sedulaka, our two teachers at Mboga.
The former has suffered much for the cause of Christ.
He has had false accusation more than once made
against him. He has been in the chain gang as well
as in prison ; he has been beaten and suffered the loss
of all his property. Actually while in prison he taught
his feUow prisoners to read. He has given up the

142 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
comforts of home, and the comparatively luxurious hfe
in Uganda, for the isolation and hard hving of a
strange land, and all that he may bear his part in the
work of evangehsing the heathen.
" Nor is Sedulaka one whit behind his fellow in
evangehstic zeal. When he visited Uganda a short
whUe since his friends said to him, ' Surely you are
not going back to such an out-of-the-way place as
Mboga.' ' Yes, I am,' he said ; and when he persisted
and commenced to make preparation for his journey,
they seized him and tied him up, declaring that he was
a madman. He managed, however, to escape from
their clutches and is now at work at his old station.
I would that there were many such madmen in the
world as Apolo and Sedulaka. It is largely owing
to their steadfastness, zeal, courage, and fidehty to
their Master that the work at Mboga has assumed its
present dimensions, and is so bright with hope for the
future." Shortly after our arrival Buckley commenced the
work of examining the candidates for Baptism and
Confirmation. On Wednesday, August 24th, thirteen
of the former, among whom was Tabalo the chief,
were baptized, and seven of the latter received the
laying on of hands. It was a day of great joy. The
happiness of these people who had suffered so much
seemed to be brimming over. One felt profoundly
thankful at being permitted to bear even so smaU a
part in contributing to their fulness of joy.
Among those under instruction we found two
pygmies of the forest near which we were encamped.
One was a fuU-grown woman and the other a youth of
about seventeen years of age. The former was forty-
three inches high and the latter thirty-eight. It
seemed quite clear to us that in the not distant future

Chap. 32] REVIEW OF THE SITUATION 143
it might be possible to evangehse the pygmy tribes
from Mboga as a base.
After paying a visit to Opedi, a neighbouring chief,
at whose place we found an interesting work in pro
gress, we made preparations for an early departure.
We were leaving behind us a band of no fewer than
two hundred readers, most of them reading with a
view to Baptism. It was most touching to hsten to
their pleadings that we should remain and teach them
ourselves. " But when wiU you come back again ? "
they asked, in most pathetic accents. We assured
them that they would not be forgotten, and that, in
the not distant future, it might be found possible to
send them a resident missionary.
In the grey dawn of the early morning of August 24th
we knelt together with these dear seekers after God in
earnest prayer, and having commended them to Him
and the Word of His Grace, we went on our way. Toro
was once more our objective. We determined, how
ever, not to return by the road by which we had come,
but to travel round by the vUlage of Ahgangira, a
chief of considerable importance. It was not much out
of our way, and we wished to discover how he was dis
posed towards us. On the way thither we had most
lovely views of Ruwenzori and its snow-clad heights.
It seemed to rise abruptly from the plains of the
Semhki river, and for the chmber one would imagine
the attack from that side, the west, would be more
likely to have a successful issue than that from the
east. Ahgangira saved us the trouble of going on to his
viUage, for hearing that we were on the road he came
to meet us. We found him friendly, but by no means
cordial ; nor did he respond with any great alacrity
to our suggestion that he should admit teachers to his

144 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
country. He declared that he would not forbid their
coming, and they should be quite free to teach. Bidding
him farewell, we continued our way to the crossing at
the Semhki river. A delay of two hours was involved
in the perilous task of getting aU our men and loads
across, then onward we went towards the high ground
where we had decided to camp. It was, however, for
me a difficult task getting along, fever was upon me,
and the last two hours of the journey was a struggle.
My heart was beating like a sledge-hammer, and every
few minutes I was compelled to rest by the roadside.
Of drinking water we had none ; and so with parched
lips and aching hmbs and fast beating heart one
struggled along, longing with an intensity hard to
describe for the rest of camp. At length a man whom
we had sent forward in search of water brought a bowl
of the most dehcious water I had ever tasted in my life.
It put new vigour into me, and brought on a profuse
perspiration which was an immense relief. And so we
reached our camp, and in an hour or two's time I was
in bed and fairly comfortable. During the night the
fever left me, and by morning hght I was ready once
more for the road.
Two marches brought us into Toro once more. We
foimd aU weU, and preparation for a Confirmation
service complete. This was held on Wednesday,
August 31st, when seventy candidates were presented
to me. At the service of Holy Commumon which
followed there were eighty-seven Communicants. On
the day foUowing we started on our way back to
Uganda. Travelhng by way of Nakabimba and Bukumi, we
arrived in Mengo on September 16th, having oeen
absent some two months and a half. During that time
we had tramped between seven and eight himdred

CitAj'. 32] ItEVIKW OF Tllh: SITUATION 145
miles, and had been (jnublcd to carry out our complete
programme without let or hindrance of any kind.
The condition of the work in Toro as we left it may
be gathered from the following statistics : Churches, 12,
having seating accommodation for some 3000 wor-
shififjcrs ; Teachers, local 45, Church Council 22, total
67 ; Communicants, 100 ; Mateka and Gospel readers,
2000 ; Contributions for Clmrch purposes for nine
months, 240,570 cowrie shells, value .£53.
Tho spiritual expansion of Uganda, as evidenced
by these figures and what we had seen during our
lengthened tour, was a fact full of the highest and
brightest significance. It meant that there was hfe in
the body — that the Church of Uganda was a living
organism, and that the Spirit of God, without whom
nothing is strong and nothing holy, was working out
the Divine purpose through the hearts and lives of
men and women who, a few years before, were living
in heathen darkness, but who now, through grace given
unto them, had consecrated themselves to God and
His blessed service. It was another example of the
great truth tfiat " God hath chosen the weak things
of the world to confound the things that are mighty."

k

CHAPTER XXXIII
education
' Knowledge comes by eyes always open and working hands
and there is no knowledge that is not power.' — Eiieeson.
No sooner was I back at Mengo than I found myself
engaged in the discussion of the question of a con
stitution for the Church of Uganda. That it was a
pressing question there could be no doubt. The body
of communicants (some five thousand) was an ever
increasing one. There were nearly a thousand
evangelists and teachers at work in the country ;
whilst the clergy— native and European — were some
thirty in number. The general body of Christians —
baptized and catechumen — numbered nearly twenty
thousand. The Church was in possession of some
seven hundred churches and schools, besides thirty or
forty thousand acres of land.
It wUl be readUy acknowledged that for the proper
control of such an organisation something more in the
way of constituted authority was needed than the
informal method of government which had graduaUy
grown up in our midst. Not that we were altogether
without law and order. Far from it. But we had
outgrown our system, which answered very weU so long
as our numbers were few and our work smaU. Be
sides which it had one cardinal defect. It was an
unrepresentative system.
I have already referred to the drafting of a constitu
tion during my recent visit to England. This docu
ment had now for several months been in the hands

Chap. 33] EDUCATION 147
of the missionaries, and on October 5th some fifteen
of us met in conference to consider the whole subject.
There was nothing very new or startling in my pro
posals. I had simply set down in writing the system
of government which in course of time had grown up in
the Mission, and supplied one or two obvious principles
which it lacked. The whole had been put into legal
form by my friend, Mr. G. A. King (Master in the
Supreme Court).
The central governing body of the Mission — the
Mengo Church Council — it will be remembered, had
been founded at the time of the persecution, when
there was danger of the European missionaries being
driven out of the country. When any vacancy oc
curred it had been the custom to co-opt upon it any
prominent Christian whose character and position
commended themselves to the majority of the Council.
Europeans and natives sat together, the former rather
as advisers than members. Gradually local councils
had been formed, very much on the same lines.
As I have already suggested, one great defect there
was in all this. The representative principle was
lacking. That, it was clear, must be supphed ; and
therefore it found place in the draft submitted to the
Conference. The communicant I proposed should be
the Elector. The most difficult question to be decided
was the place to be occupied by the European
missionaries, clerical and lay, as well also as the
lady missionaries. Were they to stand outside the
constitution, or were they to find a place within its
limits and under its provisions ? That was the ques
tion which faced me as I set myself to the task of rough
casting my proposals. I decided unhesitatingly on
the latter principle. I felt, and stUl feel, that all whose
lot in the providence of God is cast in a particular

148 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
sphere of missionary work should, as long as they are
in the country, share in the fortunes of that Church
which, through their instrumentahty, is being gathered
out of heathen darkness.
There are, I am aware, those who hold the contrary
view, and who say that the truer pohcy is for the
missionaries to remain outside aU Church organisation,
and simply advise rather than share in the government
of the Church. I have already pointed out in a previous
chapter (Book III. Chapter XVIII.) that this latter
course imphes the existence of two organisations —
that of the Church, and that of the Missionary body.
To any one acquainted with native hfe and character
it will at once be apparent in which body wiU be found
the controUing force, the guiding influence. It cannot
but be a discouragement for a Church Council to feel,
as it will inevitably in such circumstances, that do
what it may, act as wisely as is possible in any given
situation, yet stUl its power is but a shadow, and its
influence but a semblance of what it might and ought
to be. Such a feehng wUl sap effectually aU initiative,
and the hfe of the Council wUl speedUy become a weak,
feeble, flickering thing.
It should ever be the object of those whose God-
given task it is to assist in the building up of a native
Church, to develop in the Councils of that Church
independence and initiative. This, I beheve, will best
be done by throwing the fuUest possible responsibihty
upon the native organisation. A reahsed sense of
responsibility will quicken into life powers and quahties
which, duly exercised, wiU in course of time bear what
ever burden may be put upon them in the way of
administration and government. Failures during the
early days of training there will doubtless be. But
what of that ? The end attained ultimately of a

Chap. 33] EDUCATION 149
strong and healthy Church organisation will more
than justify the risk of occasional failure. Besides
which there will always be, until the Church is able
to stand alone, the presence on the governing body of
the Missionary element. Its vote will, comparatively
speaking, be a small one, but its voice will always
carry great moral weight. This, of course, should never
be regarded as a permanent arrangement. A day wiU
come when the missionary, having completed his task,
will pass on to the regions beyond. But he wUl have
left behind him a Church self-supporting, self-extending,
and self-governing.
This then was the principle embodied in my draft
constitution. It, of course, imphed a good deal more
than appeared on the surface, and raised questions
with regard to the position of laymen and lady
missionaries which required a good deal of threshing
out. It was not therefore altogether a surprise to me
to find that the Europeans looked somewhat askance
at my proposals.
The discussion naturally centred round the question
as to whether the missionary body was to be included
within the limits of the constitution or not. There
was practical unanimity of agreement on every other
point. At length having gauged, through continued
discussion, the feehng of the Conference, I withdrew
the draft from further consideration. I felt, that for
the successful working, as weU as the inauguration, of
a scheme of this kind practical unanimity was almost
essential, and as there seemed no chance of this being
attained at present, I announced that in order to secure
for so important a measure that consideration which
it deserved and demanded, I proposed to postpone to
another occasion a final decision upon the merits of
the scheme.

150 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
It wiU be noticed that so far the native Christians
had taken no part in the discussion. In fact they had
not formally been consulted. I knew that there was a
difference of opinion among the missionaries on the
main principle of the constitution, and felt that it was
advisable to come to an agreement amongst ourselves
on the point at issue before laying the scheme before
the Church at large. And so our Conference came to
an end.
The course of my story turns me now from the sub
ject of constitution-making to that of character-making
—in other words, to education. For what after aU is
education but the moulding of the character in high
and noble ideals. This, I take it, is the ultimate end
and object of all true education. " As a man thinketh
in his heart so is he." Thoughts build the hfe and
character. The aim of every true educationalist is so to
train the child that he may think only such things as
be good — not that he may be clever, but that he may
be good. Not that he may pass through hfe easily, but
that he may do hfe's work nobly. As Sydney Smith
said : " When you see a child brought up in the way
he should go, you see a good of which you cannot
measure the quantity nor perceive the end. It may be
communicated to the children's children of that chUd.
It may last for centuries. It may be communicated
to innumerable individuals. It may be planting a
plant and sowing a seed which may fill the land with
the glorious increase of righteousness, and bring upon
us the blessings of the Almighty."
If hitherto comparatively httle had been done in
the way of effective organisation of education in Uganda,
it was not because its importance had not been reahsed
or had been lost sight of, but simply on account of the
extreme pressure of the evangelistic work (our first

Chap. 33] EDUCATION 151
work) upon the aU too insufficient staff. But never
theless it must not be forgotten that the first great
essential (as a Christian educationalist understands it)
is a knowledge of Christ, the Way, the Truth, and the
Life, and that this had never been a subsidiary but
always a primary aim of our work amongst children.
Together with this, there had been carried on from the
very beginning an instruction in those accompani
ments of education which are so often taken for the
thing itself — reading, writing, and arithmetic. It came
about in this wise. For a long while the rule of the
Mission had been not to baptize any one (except bhnd
and infirm persons) who had not learned to read the
Gospels in the vernaciUar. Education was not our
first object in making this rule. It was made rather as
a test of sincerity and purity of motive. Large numbers
were coming forward and asking for baptism. Of their
life we knew nothing. They said, " We beheve, and
wish to be baptized." " Very weU," was our answer,
" we don't know you. We must test you. We must
see that you have an intelhgent knowledge of the way
of salvation. Here are the Gospels. We will teach
you to read them, and when you have read them we
shall expect you to give an intelhgent answer to the
questions which we shaU then ask you."
Thus we repeUed none who were reaUy in earnest
and who were seeking baptism from pure motives.
And so it came to pass that many thousands acquired
the art of reading. Many of these taught their fellows
and so the thing spread.
Then with regard to the other two R's — writing and
arithmetic — a few young lads about the various Mission
stations were taught to write and cypher. These taught
their friends and so on. So rapidly did this unorganised
educational work spread that at the close of 1897 it

152 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
was computed that at least there were 100,000 readers
in the country, and for the four years ending December
of that year no less a sum than £2116, 12s. 5d. had been
received as the proceeds of the sale of books and
writing material. During the year 1898 this ex
penditure had increased to the great sum of £1400 for
the twelve months. This was paid in cowrie shells to
the number of 6,300,000, the weight of which was about
ten tons !
A most potent factor in bringing about these remark
able results was without doubt the pecuhar aptitude
of the Baganda both for giving and receiving in
struction. The first serious attempt at organised education in
Uganda was made on the arrival of the first party of
ladies in 1895, Miss Chadwick then commenced a
mixed school at Namirembe, and Miss Thomsett, as
soon as an increase in the staff allowed, made a similar
attempt at Gayaza and Miss Bird at Ngogwe, Then
Mr, Hattersley, who arrived in 1898, took in hand with
characteristic energy the work of placing on as sound
a basis as possible our whole system of primary educa
tion. He had a high opinion of the capacity of the
Baganda children. The following is his testimony : —
" It is a real pleasure to teach the majority of the
children. Their inteUigence is far in advance of any
thing I ever anticipated, and given the same advantages
they would compare very favourably with Enghsh
children, and I do not say this without a very con
siderable knowledge of the capabUities of Enghsh
children, gained in teaching them at home. It is
astonishing how quickly the elder boys learn arith
metic, as you wiU see when I tell you that my first
class are now doing such sums as the foUowing :
" If 40 canoes go to Usukuma to fetch loads, each

Chap. 33] EDUCATION 153
canoe carrying 12 bales — the rate of pay for each of
which is 5 rupees plus 200 cowrie shells ; the Katikiro
takes of this one-fifth, the chief of the canoes takes one-
seventh, another under chief takes one-twelfth part,
and the headman takes one twentieth ; each canoe has
twelve paddlers. How much does each paddler get
when the balance is divided among them ? One rupee
= 16 annas, or 64 pice, or 600 cowrie sheUs."
It will be readily acknowledged that with such
material to work upon, the education of the rising
generation in Uganda was well worth undertaking, and
presented no insuperable difficulties. Of the capacity
of the Baganda, if properly trained, to carry on schools
of their own, there could be no doubt. It was merely
a question of training. Such training became, there
fore, the main feature of Mr. Hattersley's pohcy.
The next step was to stir up the chiefs, as far as
possible, to a sense of their duty with regard to the
education of children. With this object in view I had
an interview with the Katikiro, and at his suggestion
paid a visit to the Lukiko, where an opportunity was
given me of stating to the assembled chiefs my views
on the general question.
The result was an immediate increase in the number
of children attending the schools at our various centres.
At the close of the year 1898 the number had grown
to very nearly seven hundred. This notable increase,
hopeful as it was, was as nothing to that which a few
short years would suffice to show.
A sketch of our educational system in Uganda would
be incomplete without some account of the industrial
work which more or less, since the days of Mackay, has
had some share in moulding the hves and characters
of many of the Baganda.
From the very commencement of his missionary

154 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
career it was the aim of Mackay to consecrate to the
service of God that high mechanical training which
Dr. Duff, in writing to him in 1876, characterised so
distinctly as a talent entrusted to him by God, and
which he hardly thought would find sufficient scope in
the Uganda Mission, for which the young engineer had
recently volunteered. But surely no grander field for
the industrial missionary was ever fiung open wide by
the great Lord of the Harvest than Uganda. A people
highly imitative, naturally ingenious and eager to
learn, no more promising material could be found than
the young men and boys who in the early days of the
Mission thronged the workshops and smithy of the
young Scotch missionary, who in his last letter written
on the shores of the Home-land, pleaded with his
friends that grace might be given him " to keep steadily
in view the one great object," not simply the making of
clever skilled workmen, but " the salvation of immortal
souls," The following entry in his journal will show
how faithfully he kept this supreme object in the very
forefront of his work,
" AU day occupied with readers at various stages.
Some I hear in their houses, whUe others I take into
the workshop and teach them while I am busy at the
vice." The influence of Mackay's instruction in mechanics
in these early days is still visible even at the time of
writing (twenty years later). UnhappUy his death in
1890, and the disturbed condition of the country, in
later years militated against further organised develop
ments on the industrial side of our educational system
untU 1895, when Mr. J. B. Purvis arrived upon the
scene. It was under his auspices that the industrial
Mission on the hill of Bulange was founded, and which
in 1899 passed into the hands of Mr. K. Borup, under

Chap. 33] EDUCATION 155
whose superintendence it prospered beyond our most
sanguine anticipations. At the period of which I am
writing, printing, carpentering, blacksmithing, and
brick-making had made considerable progress. Young
lads were being sent by the more enhghtened of the
chiefs to be bound apprentices to these various trades.
But it may be asked, what relation has such training
to the one great aim of aU missionary enterprise — the
evangehsation of the world ? If the term " evangehsa
tion " simply imphes the bare proclamation of the
great fundamentals of Christianity and nothing more,
then I grant that the connection is not very apparent.
But if we take the term to mean in its highest — and I
cannot but think its truest sense — that the good news
of the Gospel have to do with mind and body as weU as
soul, then the relationship of intellectual and physical
training to the great end and object of aU missionary
effort becomes very apparent. The Gospel of Christ
is for the whole man. To develop aU the physical,
mental, and spiritual powers into the full stature of
manhood is, or should be, the lowest ideal that the
missionary sets before himself in his world-wide crusade
for righteousness.
And so one's earnest desire on behalf of those
thousands of souls who in God's mercy and love were
being brought at this date to the foot of the Cross,
was that each might reahse the wonderful fulness, as
weU as the freeness, of the redemption that is in Christ
Jesus — a redemption that has to do with body as weU
as mind and soul — and that with souls regenerated and
minds renewed, and physical powers trained to high and
holy as weU as skilful service, each might take his
share and nobly play his part in the spiritual, pohtical,
commercial, and industrial hfe of the nation. As a
recent writer has ?aid, " The object of aU educational

156 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
enterprise should be to make men good men and con
stantly better men. This is only possible by har
monising the educational process with the highest
national ideals of the people, aU the while purifying
and elevating them tiU men shall see and feel and
know the matchless power and glory that exalts him
who was created a httle lower than the angels. This
gives him a dominion over nature and self — a dominion
that shall spread and deepen and ascend tUl all created
things shaU join with aU the human race in proclaiming
the triumphs of redemption."
Medical missionary work, although more of an
evangehstic than an educational agency, has in its
results a distinct value in fashioning the Christian
character. Heathenism knows nothing of caring for
the sick and needy as one of the duties of life. I well
remember how, on the occasion of my first visit to
Uganda, when practically the whole country was
heathen, in the midst of the firing of guns, which in
those days was the most common method of giving
expression to pubhc joy, a poor woman was accidentaUy
shot and her jaw broken. Walker was caUed in to see
her (there was no doctor then in Uganda), and after
having dressed her wounds most skilfuUy, told her
husband and friends to feed her with hquid food. On
caUing the next day he found to his horror that she
was being absolutely neglected, and that not even her
husband had ministered to her necessity. " But she
wUl die," pleaded the Archdeacon, " if she is not fed."
" Much better that she should die," was the answer.
" She wiU never be of any use." However, measures
were taken to insure proper feeding, and in a few
months' time the woman, although terribly disfigured,
was perfectly well. Apart from Christ the world
knows nothing of pity — that divine compassion which

Chap. 33] EDUCATION 157
is akin to love, and which beareth aU things, beheveth
aU things, hopeth aU things, and endureth all things.
A Christian without the element of pity in his character
is like a well without water. There are countless
claimants for his ministry, but there is no response —
the well is dry.
One felt that, altogether apart from its value as
an evangehstic agency, medical missionary work was
needed to kindle the spark of Christ-hke pity and
compassion, and to bring home to the hearts and con
sciences of these Baganda who were beginning to run
the Christian course, the duty and privilege of minister
ing to the sick and suffering. Such a duty might be
inculcated by precept — indeed all our Christian teach
ing bore upon it, but example is better than precept.
Bloodshed, cruelty, oppression, and wrong had been
the characteristics of the old days in Uganda, and
now — and now pity, compassion, love, Christhke
tenderness in deahng with every phase of suffering
were to be characteristic of the new days — the new
era which had now dawned upon the country.
And so one welcomed the founding of the Medical
Mission by Dr. A. R. Cook in 1897, to which reference
has already been made (Book III. Chap. VIL). Prior
to that date very httle progress had been made in
organised medical work. Dr. Felkin in the early days
had spent a few brief months in the country, but
was driven home by ill-health. Dr. Gaskoin Wright
(1891-2) was also invahded after a somewhat longer
term of service. Dr. Baxter, on the occasion of two
or three visits of several months' duration, had been
enabled to do some useful work. Dr. Rattray, too,
whUe on a similar visit, had done good service. But
not until Dr. Cook's arrival was any serious attempt
made to grapple with the needs of the work as a whole.

158 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
The hospital which in June 1897 had been solemnly
dedicated to the service of God was soon found to be
too smaU, and in the month of November it was en
larged. Many of those wounded at Luba's, and other
centres of the mutiny, were brought in for treatment
and some made wonderful recoveries. " One man was
brought -with his coUar bone smashed by a buUet,
which had also perforated his lung and chipped off
part of his vertebral column, but he made an excellent
recovery. Another who had been hit by three bullets
and underwent five operations while he was in the
hospital, eventuaUy left able to walk, though with a
stiff leg, as his left knee joint had been shattered."
The work thus launched was destined, as we shaU
see later, to assume very large dimensions, spreading to
Toro, Bunyoro, Busoga, and indeed every centre of a
province or outlying country within the boundaries of
the Protectorate.

CHAPTER XXXIV
NASA
' In the stiU air the music hes unheard :
In the rough marble beauty hides unseen ;
To make the music and the beauty needs
The Master's touch, the sculptor's chisel keen.'
HORATIUS BONAR.
The Conference over, I was free to pay my long
promised visit to Nasa. The steam-launch Ruwen
zori which the Record Fund had provided us with,
was now, I found, avaUable, and it was with no httle
pleasure that on October 24th I embarked at Munyonyo
on a voyage which I fondly hoped would have infinitely
less discomfort in it than a journey by canoe ; but I
was reckoning without my host, as wiU be seen later.
Martin HaU was my companion in travel, a man
named Saxton the engineer-in-charge, and three or
four Baganda acted as firemen, stokers, and general
helpers. It was cheering to hear the steam-whistle echoing
and re-echoing among the wooded hiUs of Murchison
Creek. The sound of the engines, too, in their eager
throb stimulated the imaginative faculties. One
thought of the way in which at home to take one's
seat on board a steamer was almost equivalent to
finding oneself at one's destination. You never dreamt
that it would be otherwise. It was simply submission
to the mighty power of steam and the thing was done —
the journey over.

160 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
And so I hoped it would be on this journey to Nasa,
and took my place in the not too roomy cabin with a
sense of satisfaction not easy to describe. Alas ! the
evanescence of human hopes ! We had been going for
something hke an hour at a very fair speed when a
pecuhar hissing sound struck my ear. At the same
time I noticed that our speed had sensibly diminished.
Glancing at the steam-gauge I saw that instead of
registering 110° it was down to 80°; something was
wrong with the boiler. Inquiry soon revealed the
truth. The tubes were leaking and the fire was being
extinguished. There was nothing for it but to make
for Entebbe, which was not far off, and to hope that
repairs might be feasible, so that a fresh start might
be made the next morning. Happily this was found
to be possible, but our confidence had received a rude
shock. It was clear that the voyage would not aU
be plain saihng. At one time we were ghding along
happUy enough under the lee of one of those beautiful
islands which are the glory of the Victoria Nyanza.
At another, venturing into the open sea, we got such
a knocking about that we were only too glad of an
excuse to seek the shelter of another island. Even
when the open water was cahn there was always the
danger of one of those sudden storms springing up for
which the Victoria Nyanza has an evU, and only too
well merited, reputation. One such storm burst upon
us just as we were nearing the Kome group of islands
in the south-west. Happily we were able to get some
shelter in a rockbound bay. But even there our
position was one of extreme perU. Both anchors were
down, but the raging of the storm obhged us to keep
the engines going. Torrents of rain were faihng, and
what with the crashing of the thunder, and the roaring
of the waves, as they broke with columns of spray

Chap. 34] NASA 161
upon the rocks by which we were surrounded, we
seemed to be in the midst of a very pandemonium.
Nothing was to be seen but the dim outhne of rocks,
and the waves around lashed into fury by wind, rain,
and hail. If the anchors faUed us, there was nothing
but disaster, ruin, and death before us. It was with
no little anxiety, therefore, that one waited for some
indication of the fury of the storm being spent. At
length it was vouchsafed : suddenly the wind shifted
and commenced to blow off shore, the clouds broke,
the rain grew hghter, the thunder roUed away into the
distance, the waves went down, and there was a great
cahn— in the bay at least. The crew came out from
their hiding-places, the stokers replenished the furnaces,
the engines were oiled, and once more we started on
our way, thankful to God for a merciful deliverance
from imminent perU.
Mwanza was reached on the 1st of November, and
on the 4th, to our great rehef, we steamed to the land
ing-place at Nasa. The journey had taken us exactly
eleven days, one day less than the time occupied on a
previous occasion when travelhng in canoes.
As a sphere of missionary work Nasa is a great con
trast to Uganda. The inteUectual capacity of the
Wasukuma differs as completely from that of the
Baganda as the physical aspect of the country con
trasts with the more favoured land north of the great
Lake. In the latter you have green hills, deep dark
forests and luxuriant banana groves without end,
everything in fact which tells of hfe and vigorous
growth. And the people are hke the land in which
they dweU — bright, quick, clever, and vigorous. You
feel as you come in contact with them that they are
in harmony with the conditions of hfe by which they
are surrounded, that their environment accounts for
U L

162 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
many of their characteristics. But in the country
south of the Lake, rocks and scorched vegetation, arid
plains and dry river beds are the chief characteristics,
everything in fact indicating a struggle for existence.
And here again we found the people in harmony with
their environment — the Wasukuma are of a simple
kindly nature, but not keen inteUectuaUy. It seems
almost as though the severity, not to say the hopeless
ness of the conflict with the hard conditions under
which they hve had graduaUy induced such an
apathetic state of mind as to lead to an atrophy of
the higher mental faculties. Be this as it may, the
fact remains that from an inteUectual standpoint the
Wasukuma and kindred races south of the Lake are
vastly inferior to the tribes dwelling on the northern
and western shores of the Victoria Nyanza.
Although possessing large herds of cattle, yet when
the crop of " mtama " (miUet) — the staple food of the
people — faUs, the result, owing to an absolute lack of
stored provision, is widespread ruin and disaster. But
besides this hving from " hand to mouth," so to speak,
which is a constant peril, there is the ever present
danger of raids from such hostUe tribes as the Masai.
It is no imcommon thing for these ubiquitous warriors
to be in a certain place one day and the next to be
sixty or seventy miles away — burning, slaying, and
ravaging the whole country side. On more than one
occasion, within my own experience, Nasa has been
thus raided, and the whole country round with its
numerous villages made a desolation. It can hardly
be wondered at that with such drawbacks, and apart
from physical causes, the people in course of time
should have sunk back into an apathetic and sluggish
condition of mind. The marvel is not that there
shoiUd have been so httle advance in missionary work

Chap. 34] NASA 163
during the ten years since the station at Nasa was
founded, but that in such circumstances there should
have been any progress at aU.
And yet very real progress had been made, as was
apparent the moment we landed. A large number of
young men and boys met us, and with many expressions
of joy at our coming, led the way to the Mission station,
where we were sorry to find Force Jones down with an
attack of blackwater fever, but cheerful and bright in
the midst of his weakness.
One could see in a moment what the Gospel had
done for these young people who gathered about us
with their warm-hearted greetings. It had sharpened
their intellect, brightened their life, and imparted to
their whole being a new character altogether. Indif
ference had given place to interest, apathy to energy,
idleness to industry, and self-indulgence to self-denial.
As one compared them with the heathen around, one
felt that they were verily " a new creation." One of
the principal obstacles to the progress of the work at
Nasa has been the attitude of the chief, Kapongo.
Outwardly friendly, he is and has been from the first
secretly hostUe. His influence over his people is
dependent upon his reputation as a " rain maker."
He sees clearly enough that Christianity and rain
making are incompatible. He therefore rejects what
he regards as a shadow and grasps what he beheves to
be the substance. And yet he would fain stand well
with the Europeans. Hence his double face.
He came to see me the day after my arrival, and the
same afternoon I returned his visit, A kraal within a
kraal is the best description I can give you of his viUage.
Pitched on a low-lying piece of ground, in the rainy
season it is httle better than an island in the midst of a
swamp. Even when the rains are lessening, the con-

164 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V,
tinual movement of cattle, sheep, and goats makes the
place a veritable quagmire.
Plentifully besmeared with grease, and with an
abundance of neck, arm, and leg ornaments of ivory,
brass, and ostrich sheU, the old man — for he is now
getting on in years — is a typical Usukuma chief,
quite one of the old school.^
Seating ourselves on stools, which to my great rehef
were placed outside and not inside the hut, and in
the shade of the capacious doorway, I at once broached
the subject of freedom for the chUdren of Nasa to
attend our schools. Wright, who by this time had
acquired a perfect knowledge of the language, acted as
my interpreter. " Do I hinder them from coming ? "
was the retort of the chief. Of course I could not say
that it was through his influence they abstained from
coming, but I urged in answer to his question that he
should use his influence in persuading them to come —
that there was now an opportunity afforded them of
learning that which, in time to come, would be of
priceless value, and that as a chief who cared for his
people it was his duty to do his utmost for them, and
so on, I then urged upon him a personal acceptance
of that salvation of which now for many years he had
heard preached — the day of opportunity would soon
pass, and that he was doing himself a great wrong by
turning his back upon the goodness and love of God.
Thus I pleaded with him, and not without response.
But how far the heart was touched as he assented to
all my arguments is more than I can say.
On Sunday, November 7th, I confirmed twenty-six
candidates who were presented to me by Mr. Wright.
Of these, two were Baganda women — wives of teachers
who, at considerable self-sacrffice, had left their homes
1 Since this was written the news has come of the death of Kapongo.

Chap. 34] NASA 165
in Uganda for this missionary enterprise south of the
Lake. Baganda evangelists — men like Nasanieri Mudeka
and Yusufu Mukasa — have done what no European
missionary has ever had it in his power to do. They
have shown the Wasukuma that the Gospel of Christ
is for the black man as well as for the white, and that
it is possible for the African to hve a life of self-sacri
fice and self-denial. The Baganda have been a great
object-lesson to the Wasukuma.
One of the most interesting sights at Nasa is the
gathering together every Sunday morning of some
five or six hundred heathen in the large church for an
evangelistic service ; there they sit in all their savage
finery. This man has upon his arms heavy rings of
ivory, and upon his wrists simUar ones of brass — you
wonder how they got there, they fit so tightly; that
man is decorated with a necklace of shells cut or
ground into various shapes, and on every side there
are spears and shields and knobkerries without end.
The women, too, of whom there are a goodly number,
are resplendent in beads and brass, and all, men and
women ahke, are shining with grease, the air is redolent
with it. The whole scene is suggestive in the extreme
of savage heathenism, old customs stiU tenaciously
clung to, and old superstitions still believed in, for
every soul present has some heathen charm about his
person, either on neck, arm, or leg.
One longs to dive deep down into their minds, and
to know of what they are thinking, as they sit there
hstening apparently with all their ears to the truths of
the Gospel set before them, in simple language in their
own tongue, by the white man from the far off land,
and impressed upon them still further by questions as
to the facts of the life and death of Christ their Saviour,
of which they have just been hearing. One cannot

166 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V,
but beheve that into some heart some word of truth
may faU, and as '¦' good seed sown in good ground "
bring forth fruit to God's glory in a changed hfe and
consecrated wUl. One knows how
' In each heart of hearts a hidden deep lies,
Never fathomed by its dearest, best.'
And one knows, too, how the Word of God meets the
soul-need of every chUd of man. But it is difficult
indeed, even for the experienced missionary, to say
how it is brought about, and how the need is met, and
what it is that stirs the " hidden deep." AU that he
can say is, " The wind bloweth where it hsteth, and
thou hearest the sound thereof, but canst not teU
whence it cometh, and whither it goeth: so is every
one that is born of the Spirit."
And if the sight of such a multitude of souls in aU
their ruin and degradation, " sitting in darkness and
the shadow of death," stirs the heart of the onlooker
to its nethermost depths, so, too, does the sight, seen
in many another place besides Nasa, of the sohtary
witness to the love and power of God appeal to one's
deepest emotions. It is a position of singular glory
and solemn responsibUity. There he stands — alone —
the only witness to the love of God in aU that vast
region. Around him are all the principahties and
powers of darkness, ' Mustering their unseen array.'
Humanly speaking the salvation of multitudes of im
mortal souls depends upon him, his steadfastness, his
courage, his faithfulness. He is
' One man against a stone- waUed city of sin.'
VerUy it is a sight for men and angels ! How such a
spectacle should stimulate us in prayer, deepen our

Chap. 34] NASA 167
sjrmpathies, brighten our hopes, and strengthen our
faith. And thus one felt with regard to the lonely Mission
at Nasa, and the faithful witness that was being borne
by that little band of missionaries (just two men and
no more in all that vast field) to the Gospel of the Lord
Jesus Christ.
Another interesting sight to be seen at Nasa and
the viUages around is that of the schools with all their
infinite possibilities.
The more one considers the ccirumstances of
Usukuma, and the conditions of life which obtain
there — the sin, the superstitions, the baleful, not to
say bestial, habits of the people — the more the con
viction is borne in upon one's mind that the great
hope for the future of the country hes in work amongst
the children. God forbid that we should despair of
winning the souls of the young men and women, the
middle-aged or even the aged. To them the Gospel
must be preached. It is, we know, the power of God
unto salvation to every one that beheveth, and the
Holy Spirit is able to quicken into life the most de
graded and hardened of sinners. God forbid that we
should doubt it for a single moment. But still when
we think of the seared consciences, the bulnted sus
ceptibilities, the dulled faculties, the crystalLsed habits
of a lifetime, of the great mass of the adult population,
and compare them with the susceptible hearts, the
bright inteUigence, the keen faculties and the tender
consciences of the chUdren, we see in a moment on
which side the possibUities he. To lay ourselves out,
therefore, to win the children is to my mind the wisest
policy to pursue in seeking to evangehse all such
countries as Usukuma and Unyamwezi. Let us never
grow weary of proclaiming the "unsearchable riches

168 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
of Christ " to aU ahke — the old as weU as the young,
the sick as weU as the whole, the maimed, the halt,
and the blind as weU as the vigorous and strong, but
let us see to it that we never relax our most earnest
efforts to win the chUdren for the Saviour.
The journey back to Uganda was accomphshed
partly in the steam-launch and partly in canoes.
Shortly after leaving Nasa (in the bay of Magu) the
boUer of the launch broke down once more. Having
no saffing-gear we were at the mercy of winds and
waves. Steering was an impossibffity, there was no
way on the boat. We must either drift, possibly on
to the rocks, or in some way or another get steerage
way on the vessel. HappUy the ridge pole of my tent
was without joints. This was rigged up as a mast.
An Edgington canvas cover for my loads provided a
saU. There was a fair wind, and to our great dehght
we were able to steer our crippled boat into a haven
of refuge. Here repairs were effected during the night.
The next day we reached Kagei; here, it wUl be re
membered. Dr. Smith of the first expedition to Uganda
died on May 11, 1877.
A thorough examination of the boUer tubes revealed
the necessity for further repairs. It was evident that
we were in for a delay of three or four days at least.
However, on the second day after our arrival, a fleet
of Uganda canoes, in charge of my old friend Danieri
Kaganda, entered the bay. " Now," I thought, " is
my opportunity I am sick of these continual delays
and these leaky tubes. I -wUl give the steam-launch
the shp, and make my way back to Uganda in a canoe."
Danieri gave us two of his largest and best-manned
canoes, and having said " Good-bye " to the Rxnvenzon
we started on the long puU to Uganda. The men were
glad at the prospect of getting back to their homes

Chap. 34] NASA 169
sooner than thev expected, and so paddled with a wUl,
beguiling the monotony of their toU with songs, telling
of the perils of pa^t days, and expatiating on the joys
of the present. And so past Junia's isle and on to
Kom? and Soswa we went in almost record time.
There was a fair wind behind us and willing arms on
board of us. Five and a half days brought us to
Bukoba on the Kiziba coast. Two more days and we
were in sight of Sese. Then on we went past Kaganda's
and Jana until Bulago was reached. So far we had
seen or heard nothing of the steam-launch. We were
now within a few hours of our destination. It was
with no httle interest that we looked forward to our
arrival at Munvonvo. Should we find the Ruirenzoi-i
there or not ? Has she passed us, or was she stUl
lagging behind ? These were questions keenly debated
as we drew near to our goal.
Happening to look seaward whUe foUowing the flight
of what looked hke a fish eagle, I caught sight of a
column of smoke on the horizon. ¦' Yonder she is I "
I exclaimed. Immediately the canoe went forward
with a rush. The paddlers were determined not to be
beaten. Dashing with his paddle the water high into the
air and flinging it far behind him the steersman broke
into a famihar boat song. The chorus was quickly
caught up. And so with the rhythm of song, and the
perfect time kept with the paddle, and the swinging
bodies of the crew, we swept on our way. GraduaUy
the steam-launch gained upon us. untU at length we
were able to make out the figures of those on board.
But we were now at the edge of the reed lining of
the shore. A few minutes more and our Httle craft
grounded on the sand and we were at the haven of our
desires. With the shriU cry of the whistle and the panting

170 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
of the engines, with the rushing of steam the launch
ghded to her anchorage some ten minutes behind us.
The canoe had won the race and steam-power for once
was beaten.
And so the visit, long looked forward to, to Nasa
came to an end, and we found ourselves once more
back at Namirembe, the centre of all our Mission
work. The next few weeks were taken up with visits to
Gayaza, Nakanyonyi, and Ngogwe, Confirmations were
held at each place. Candidates to the number of
526 were confirmed, interviews with teachers were
arranged, and the thousand and one matters which
crop up on the occasion of such visits were gone into
and settled. Then on St. Thomas' Day came the
Ordination of H. W. Tegart to the Priesthood.
The year closed with the arrival of Mr. and Mrs.
Gordon and Fisher from England,

CHAPTER XXXV
the dying century
' The Present, the Present is all thou hast,
For thy sure possessing :
Like the Patriarch's angel, hold it fast
TiU it gives its blessing.'
WHimEB.
The New Year, the last of the century, was ushered
in by a week of united prayer. Special addresses were
given each day by various members of the ]\lission.
Earnest was the pleading at the " Throne of Grace,"
that a very special blessing might be vouchsafed to
us and our work during the remaining months of a
century of marked missionary progress throughout the
world. WonderfuUy was this prayer answered, as wUl
be seen hereafter in the opening up of two of the sur
rounding countries — Nkole and Bunyoro — to the Gospel
of Christ,
On January 29th (Septuagesima Sunday) came the
Ordination (long looked forward to) of five native
deacons and four native priests. TMs brought the
number of ordained natives up to fifteen, of whom
seven were priests and eight deacons. Fisher received
Deacons Orders on the same occasion.
The way was now clear for me to start on a long
contemplated journey to Bunyoro. It appeared to me
and others that the time had now come for the evange
hsation of that long down-trodden country, and the
commencement of direct missionary work. Several
attempts during the last years had been made to obtain

172 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
a footing, and to arouse an interest in the Gospel of
Christ. Fisher when stationed in North Singo had
crossed the Kafu river, in which, by the way, owing to
the strength of the current, he was nearly drowned,
and had penetrated as far as Kahora, Kabarega's
former capital. There he had planted one or two
Baganda evangehsts, and had managed so far to in
terest Byabachwezi, one of the principal chiefs, as to
get him to buUd a church.
By this time Mwanga and Kabarega had been driven
from the country, and were now in hiding in Bukedi,
a httle known country on the east bank of the NUe.
Eataimba, one of Kabarega's sons, a youth about
twelve years of age, had for some time been hving in
Mengo; him the Government decided to make king
of Bunyoro in the place of his father.
Early in September 1898 he started for Masindi, his
new capital. Passing through Kisitala in Bulemezi
he was there found on the 10th by Mr. Lewin, who de
termined to accompany him to Bunyoro. The latter
decided also to take with him Tomasi Semfuma, one
of our most trustworthy evangelists. The journey
occupied some eight days. Lewin received a warm
welcome from the people, who at once manifested an
eager desire for instruction. A church of reeds and
grass was soon run up, and a daUy attendance of some
eighty souls gladdened the heart of the missionary.
Leaving Tomasi Semfuma to carry on the work, Lewin
returned to his station in Bulemezi, reporting to me
that in North Bunyoro at any rate there was an open
door which ought as soon as possible to be entered.
To crown aU, a letter with a piteous appeal came to me
from the king Kitaimba. " Why remain in Uganda
only ? " he wrote, " When I was there, in Uganda, I
saw that the hght had spread. But what about me ?

Chap. 35] THE DYING CENTURY 173
Do you not think of my country ? Do you not know
that it is a very dark one. I want both the Bible and
the Prayer Book very much. My friend, the Bishop,
I beseech you to send a European to teach me."
Yes ! Bunyoro was truly in a pitiful condition.
War and rebeUion had been foUowed by plague, pesti
lence, and famine. The food supply of the country,
poor at the best, was now perUously near starvation
point. Cultivation had almost ceased. The people
were without heart, without hope, because they were
without God.
" Do you not know," wrote the king, " that my
country is a very dark one." Yes ! it was dark indeed.
The ancient superstition of the people stUl held sway.
Mr. Fisher thus describes it : —
" The Munyoro beheves in a great devil caUed
Byachwezi and his ten Angels, caUed (1) Nyabuzana,
(2) Kyomya, (3) Kugolo, (4) Mulendwa, (5) Ndausa,
(6) Ebona, (7) Mugenye, (8) Mukasa, (9) Lubanga,
(10) Namutah. When these angels were consulted the
priest placed on his head the crown pecuhar to each,
otherwise the oracle was dumb. The ritual of devil
worship in Bunyoro was most horrible. Propitiation
at the favourable time was the remedy for every evil
or disaster. This took the form of (a) human sacrffice,
(6) cutting with sharp knives, (c) burning with fire,
(d) extracting teeth from the lower jaw that the hfe,
the blood, the smoke of human flesh and the dedica
tion of human teeth might turn the great devU from
his stern purpose.
" The moment a baby is born it is scarred with a
sharp knife and dedicated to the devU. If it has a
pain in the head or chest and cries, the devil is angry,
and the httle creature is burned with a red hot iron on
the head and chest that the human smoke may drive

174 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
away 'Lubare.' When the poor baby's teeth arrive,
instead of being a cause of dehght to the mother, she
painfuUy extracts them. Amongst my daUy patients
is a httle girl with a deep woimd in her forehead, caused
by her mother firing a blunt arrow at the chUd's head
that she might draw the blood and cure the pain."
Such was Bunyoro when I decided to visit it, and
to see for myself whether the time had come for the
permanent occupation of the country. As it was so
lately in rebslhon, and was stiU in parts greatly dis
turbed, it was necessary to obtain the sanction of the
Acting Commissioner (Colonel Ternan) for the journey.
This was readUy accorded, and having invited Mr.
Fisher to accompany me, I started on February 11th
for Waluleta, some five-and-twenty mUes away. The
day was hot and the journey long, the hills were steep
and the swamps were deep. It was therefore with no
httle pleasure that some six mUes from my destination
I met some messengers from the Kangawo (Zakaria
Kizito) with a horse. To save me further fatigue he
had sent it most kindly to my assistance.
A quiet and restful Sunday was spent at Waluleta.
A Confirmation service was held, when ninety-two
candidates were presented and received the laying on
of hands. At Kisitala, where we arrived on the follow
ing day (February 14th), a similar service had been
arranged, and no fewer than one hundred and twenty
men and women were confirmed.
Having said " good-bye " to our old friend Samwih
Mukasa (the chief of the place) and the warm-hearted
crowds which thronged around us, we started on our
four days' march to Kisahzi, the headquarters of
Andereya, the Kimbugwe. It was a hot and tiring
journey, the scenery monotonous and uninteresting.
A veU of grey haze hung over the landscape and added

Chap. 35] THE DYING CENTURY 175
to the depressing monotony of the march. However,
we made good progress, and on Saturday, February 18th,
reached our destination.
Kisahzi has but few distinguishing features about it.
The whole of the country around is flat, with a graveUy,
sandy soil. The trees are stunted in their growth, and
mostly of the thorny kind. The water is of indifferent
quahty, and not too plentiful. In the dry season it is
necessary to fetch it from the NUe, which is about an
hour's journey away.
Although Kisahzi forms nominally a part of Uganda,
the population is almost entirely Banyoro. In the old
days Kamrasi and Kabarega, kings of Bunyoro, pushed
their conquests very far down the west bank of the
Nile, almost indeed as far as the province of Kyagwe.
The late encounters of the Baganda with their ancient
foes had resulted in the recovery of most of the lost
territory. The Banyoro settlers, however, instead of
being driven out, were aUowed to remain in the occu
pation of their holdings, and so the land was saved
from faihng back into ruin. It had lately been the
centre of considerable interest from a military point of
view. Many of the Sudanese mutineers were encamped
on the east bank of the Nile (we could hear the crack
of their rffies as they hunted game), and from time to
time made raids upon their enemy's hues of communi
cation. One such raid had taken place a few weeks
previous to our arrival. It seems that two or three
smaU forts had been buUt not far from the NUe, one
being at Kisahzi and another at Mruh, Lieutenant
Hannyngton, with a detachment of Punjabis, was pro
ceeding to the latter place, and had halted to read
a letter which had just been handed to him by a
messenger. Hastening to overtake his men, he reached
them just as a murderous voUey was fired upon them

176 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V,
by a party of mutineers hidden in the long grass, not
far from the road. Half of his party had fallen. He
himself, by a second volley, was wounded, but with
the few survivors managed with great difficulty to
make his way back to the fort at Kisahzi. There he
was besieged for several weeks by four or five hundred
Sudanese. He made a successful defence, the mutineers
at length raising the siege and retreating across the Nile.
It was -with no httle curiosity that I visited the
scene of an encounter which had aroused no httle
interest in Mengo, and on the result of which momentous
issues hung.
The fort we found in charge of Captain Chitty. He
most kindly allowed us to see all that was to be seen,
and explained to us the hne of attack adopted by the
mutineers. There was, it seems, a triple hne of defence
— first a boma of thorns, then the ditch, and lastly
the ramparts, which were really earthworks. Had the
Sudanese possessed a gun or two it would have gone
hard with the httle garrison. As it was, rffie fire was
no small matter with such poor defences. However,
the attack never developed into a direct assault, the
mutineers retiring across the Nile rather than venture it.
The Sudanese works were a marvel of ingenuity. They
consisted of a series of underground passages and
minute dwelhngs. Had the garrison attempted a saUy
the results would have been disastrous. The main
contest, however, was over the water supply. Had
that been lost there would have been nothing for it
but surrender. The defence reahsed this, and never
for a single day or night relaxed their keen vigUance,
which was a marked characteristic of a most gallant
fight. The prospects of the work at Kisalizi were distinctly
encouraging. Andereya had commenced to buUd a

Chap. 35] THE DYING CENTURY 177
new church — the old one had been burnt by the
Sudanese — and school-rooms, and many young men and
women were already under instruction. The baptism
of several infants, and a service of Holy Communion,
in the unfinished church, were my first engagements.
Then came the writing down of the names of candidates
for baptism. The sale of books foUowed. For these
there was a keen demand, no fewer than 40,000 shells'
worth being disposed of in one day.
A football match en the chief's "mbuga," one side
captained by Fisher and the other by myself, brought
our visit to a close.
On Tuesday, February 21st, we started on the last
stage of our journey to Masindi. Captain Chitty, in
obedience to instructions from Colonel Ternan, arranged
for an escort of some thirty Baganda soldiers. At the
same time a party of Indian soldiers was sent to march
paraUel with ourselves — between us and the Nile — on
the further bank of which were the mutineers. Fort
Kutabu was reached in due course, nothing having been
seen of the enemy. On the following day we made
our way to the Kafu, on the north bank of which was
the modern station of Mruh. An immense dug-out
canoe, capable of holding thirty or forty passengers,
was in use as a ferry-boat, and quickly transported us
across the semi-reed-blocked channel of the river, which
conveys the greater part of the drainage of Uganda into
the Nile. Sergeant Bonza, who was in charge of the
block-house, received us kindly, and in the afternoon
arranged for a visit to the old station of Mruh, from
which General Gordon dated some of his letters, and
which was in his day the most southern outpost of
EgjTptian rule.
The huge dug-out was once more brought into use,
and slowly we poled our way through reeds and papyrus
II M

178 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
untU, with very httle warning of what was before us, we
were launched out into a most beautiful reach of the
river NUe. The scene was enchanting in the extreme.
A wide, almost lake-hke stretch of water lay before us,
a stretch some eight hundred yards in width, which in
parts, as in a mirror, reflected a sky more high and
clear than the azure of a summer morning in the home
land ever imaged, and ht to its apparently measureless
depths by a sun more glorious than ever poured
splendour even upon the meres and tarns of " bonny
Westmorland," that queen of scenic beauty.
In other parts, where a gentle breeze ruffled the
surface of the stream, aquatic birds of aU kinds and
most varied plumage were dipping and diving, some
darting for flies, and others plunging into the depths
below for fish. Away in the distance a number of
dark specks upon the ghttering sUver of the sunlit
waters told of a school of " hippos " at play. Here
on the right bank papyrus plants in aU their grace and
beauty were bending and bowing their heads in instant
response to the wooings of the gentle breezes, which
here and there were touching as with a magic cloud
the mirror which lay before us.
To drive our canoe into this scene of exquisite beauty
seemed almost hke desecration. But our paddlers had
no mercy. Their work was to reach the farther bank
and that with as httle delay as possible, and so with a
wUd cry of pleasure at getting free from the trammels
of the pearly white and sky-blue lUies with which our
track hke a bridal path had hitherto been strewn, and
of whose glories they could see nothing and cared less,
they set to work with a wUl, and dashing their paddles
simultaneously into the water, in a very few minutes
they brought us to the reedy margin of the further
shore.

i,-.*H..{)l(l(,l(

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Qe;

Ul

Pi

.f .... *., ¦. .#¦

s

.'#' '^t^V'-

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Chap. 35] THE DYING CENTURY 179
Climbing the rough bank of rocks and scrub inter
mingled with red earth, we soon found ourselves in the
midst of the ruins of the old fort of Gordon's days.
There, there was httle doubt, were the remains of the
guard-house, and there and there were bastions com
manding every possible approach, and over yonder,
near that tangled mass of creepers, was one of the
dwelling-houses, possibly the one in which Gordon
lived, and in which he jotted down those entries in his
journal which give us such a wonderful insight into
his inner hfe and character.
It was very moving to the soul to stand there, in
that ruined desolated fort, and to thinlc of that noble
Christian hero who had sojourned there, and of all his
prayerful longings for the regeneration of the land spread
out before him, and to remind oneself of how wonder
fuUy his prayers had been answered in the growth of
the Church of Christ in Uganda, in the planting of
which he had assisted, and in its extension to the very
regions which lay so heavUy upon his soul.
Fifteen years had passed by since Kartum feU
with a crash that echoed and re-echoed throughout
Christendom and the whole Mohammedan world —
fifteen years of cruel tyranny and unspeakable wrongs.
But the hour of retribution came, and with it the man.
Omdurman was fought and won. Barely fifteen
months had passed since then, and now Kartum had
its Christian teachers and Bunyoro its catechumen
king. As Browning says : —
' Faith carmot be unanswered,
Her feet are firmly planted on the rock.
Amid the wildest storms she stands undaunted,
Nor quails before the loudest thunder shock.
She knows Omnipotence has heard her prayer.
And cries, it shall be done — sometime, somewhere.'

180 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
At Masindi, where we arrived the second day after
leaving Mruh, we received a warm welcome from the
king, Lubuga (Queen-sister), Tomasi Semfuma, and
the band of readers whom the latter had gathered
round him. A grass and reed house had been built for
our accommodation, and every arrangement made that
was possible for our comfort. It was evident that a
spirit of inquiry was abroad, and that in a very short
time we should have a considerable work upon our
hands. Tomasi recommended both the king and the
Lubuga for baptism, for which rite he had been pre
paring them for some while past. I asked Mr. Fisher
to examine them. The result was entirely satisfactory.
On Sunday, February 26th, therefore, it was my great
joy to baptize them both — the young king and his
sister — the former taking the name of Yosiya WiUiam
and the latter that of Vikitoria. Three other cate
chumens were baptized at the same time.
That Masindi would eventually become a place of
considerable importance was evident. The Govern
ment were making it a military centre, and the main
caravan road to the Nile stations of Wadelai, Dufile,
and Gondokoro passed through it. I therefore thought
it well to take steps to acquire a suitable site for a
permanent Mission station.
Colonel Evatt of the Indian contingent, whom I
found in command, was most helpful, and did every
thing in his power to further my plans. A good site
was obtained, and arrangements made for the extension
of a work which seemed to have in it so many elements
of success.
Hoima, or more properly Kahora, was the ancient
capital of the kings of Bunyoro. Planted in the
midst of a fine grazing country, it was regarded by
most of the Banyoro chiefs as an ideal spot for their

Chap. 35] THE DYING CENTURY 181
cattle, and thus it came to pass that whilst obhged to
build at Masindi, on account of its being the centre
of the European administration, their cattle were at
Hoima, and, needless to say, their hearts were there
also. Thither on Tuesday, February 28th, we bent
our steps.
Colonel Evatt insisted upon our having an escort of
Indian soldiers. It was arranged that we should meet
at sunrise at the junction of the roads, some three or
four hundred yards from the fort. On reaching the
rendezvous, however, we saw no signs of our escort,
and after waiting a few minutes decided to go on our
way. We had gone about a mile when we heard loud
shouts behind us. It was our escort coming after us
with that promising young officer. Lieutenant Hornby,
in front. On overtaking us he told us to our horror
that the native officer in command had rendered himself
Hable to the punishment of death, on account of losing
his convoy. However, it was clear he was not going
to be put upon his trial, and so we went on our way,
if not sadder, at least wiser men in things mihtary.
Hoima, which we reached on the second day, is a
charming spot. Located in the midst of an amphi
theatre of hiUs, it reminds one of nothing so much as
a scene in the home-land. A ripphng stream runs
through the valley, dipping down here and there into
shady dells half hidden from view by the overhanging
trees. Away southward on the horizon peeps up
Musaja Mukulu (the head-man), a cone-hke hUl
which not long ago was the scene of a bloody fight.
Yonder to the east is the gap in the hiUs through which
runs the road to Masindi, whUst westward, blue with
haze, rise the Bulega Mountains, and we know that
between them and us, in a great trough a thousand
feet below us, Hes the Albert Nyanza.

182 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
On a knoU in the midst of this scene of exquisite
beauty, and almost within sight and sound of the
running water, stands the fort. Captain Hicks was in
charge, and gave us a most cordial welcome. He was
leaving, however, the next day for Fajao, but most
kindly placed his house and indeed the whole fort at
our disposal.
The next few days were fuU of the most absorbing
interest. What could be more dehghtful than to see
gathered round us yoimg men and women with joy
written on every feature of their countenances, a band
of behevers which, almost without European teaching,
had been brought to a saving knowledge of Christ as
God and Saviour. Byabachwezi, the chief whom
Fisher had interested in Christianity during his visit
in 1895, was a great help to us in making our plans for
the future. A site for a Mission station and church
was secured and the buUdings marked out. Candi
dates for Baptism were examined, and the course of
instruction for Confirmation was arranged. It was
then decided that Fisher should remain at Kahora
for a whUe, but afterwards return to Masindi until
arrangements could be made for the permanent occu
pation of the former place. Thus was Bunyoro
claimed for Christ and permanently occupied.
It was with no httle regret that on March 6th I
said " good-bye " to the Httle band of Christians who,
on Sunday the 5th, had been baptized into the Church
of Christ, and took my way towards the Kafu river
on my way back to Uganda. I crossed it on the second
day, and camped at Petero's, a wild spot not far from
the river bank. Towards evening headache and rack
ing pains in my back and limbs told me that I was in
for an attack of fever. I spent a sleepless night, but
towards morning my temperature went down, and

o
oz
g

Chap. 35] THE DYING CENTURY 183
although feehng weak and good for nothing I deter
mined to proceed. Twenty-two or three mUes lay
between Petero's and the next possible camping-place.
It was a long journey, but I resolved to face it. How
ever, after a couple of hours hard tramping, I became
conscious that fever was upon me once more, the
racking headache, and the heart beating like a sledge
hammer were unmistakable signs. What was to be
done ? It was impossible to camp — there was no food
or water. To go back was not to be thought of.
Walking was an impossibUity. How about a hammock ?
For a pole there was the ridge pole of my tent, fortunately
unjointed ; for a hammock, one of my boys was wearing
several yards of Amerikani cahco. Tied together at the
ends it would sustain a considerable strain. This
makeshift arrangement answered admirably. Fortu
nately I had a few spare men with me, and by putting
a few Hght loads together, I got two or three more.
And so we went forward. A halt for refreshment and
then on again. At length, at about three o'clock in
the afternoon, the mounting clouds and the rolhng of
distant thunder told of a coming storm. HappUy I
had a new waterproof riding " poncho " with me.
This was spread over the hammock and securely tied
underneath, but only just in time. The storm burst
with almost inconceivable fury. Torrents of rain,
rushing wind, and bhnding lightning aU combined to
make the outburst one of the most terrible which it
has ever been my lot to witness even in the tropics.
I say witness, but to teU the truth I saw Httle of it.
Securely tied up in my hammock, I was in semi-dark
ness. But the struggles of the men, the beating of the
rain on the waterproof cover, and the appaUing crashes
of the thunder indicated only too truly the nature of
the storm without. For two mortal hours the men

184 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
staggered along with their burden in the face of the
tempest, the path Httle better than a running stream.
It was a gallant struggle, and nobly the men did their
work. At length darkness set in, but gardens were in
sight, so I gathered from the broken bits of informa
tion which came to me from time to time in my hiding-
place. Soon it became evident that we were nearing a
house, and then that an attempt was being made to
enter it. There was a halt, the fastenings of my cover
were undone, and lo ! I found myself inside a native
hut, in the midst of which was a blazing fire. Thank
God ! was all I could say, as I staggered to a native
bedstead which occupied the farther side of the hut.
It was a merciful deliverance from a great peril. But
for the courage of my men I should have been exposed
to the fury of the storm, without hope of shelter, of
fire, or of food, and that, too, with fever upon me — a
temperature of 103°. To say that I was grateful is
but feebly to express my thankfulness to the brave
fellows who so nobly did their work. The " Muzungu "
(the white man) was in danger and they must save
him, had been the burden of their cry as they bore
him along in the face of that terrible storm.
A sleepless night foUowed ; but happily strong doses
of quinine, hot tea and blankets did their work, and at
dawn my temperature was once more normal. It was
not, however, till the afternoon that I felt fit to move.
Kinakulya was only some three hours away, and so
was easily reached by sun-down.
A day's rest followed, and then on I went again to
Mitiana, where I arrived on March 13th. Here and at
Kasaka Confirmations had been arranged. Seventy-
nine candidates were presented at the former place
and fifty-three at the latter.
On Monday, March 20th, I left Mitiana, whither I

Chap. 35] THE DYING CENTURY 185
had returned after visiting Kasaka, and on the foUowing
day reached Mengo.
Thus came to an end a memorable expedition in
volving a tramp of nearly four hundred mUes, but
resulting in the opening up of Bunyoro, which for so
long ages had been sitting in darkness and the shadow
of death, to the Gospel of Christ and the permanent
occupation of the country for Him.

CHAPTER XXXVI
the evangelisation of koki
' Every field smiles with thy glory ; and each
Chiming voice in forest, or on heaven's invisible thrones
Has one soul-soothing song.' — W. Fbeelaitd.
An interval of some three weeks foUowed my return
from Bunyoro. Then came a journey to Koki, where
Clayton was at work. The story of the evangehsation
of Koki, which hes to the south-west of Uganda, is an
interesting one. Roughly it is as foUows.
Kamswaga the king is of the great " Hima " tribe.
TaU and hthe in figure, with a light complexion, he is
easily recognised as one of that interesting people —
the cattle-breeders and tenders of Central Africa. His
first contact with Christianity was in 1894, when on a
visit to Mengo. Seeing what faith in Christ as a Hving
Saviour had done for the Baganda, he became not
only anxious to be taught himself, but most desirous
that his people should also be instructed in the new
rehgion, which appeared to him (so he said) to be as
" good for this Hfe as for the next ; " in other words,
to have in it " the promise of the Hfe which now is
and of that which is to come."
Appealing to the Mengo Church Council for help he
met with a ready response. Four teachers came for
ward as volunteers, and were assigned to Koki as its
first evangelists. With these men Kamswaga re
turned with great joy to his own country. One of
these evangehsts, a lame man named Mikaeri, told at

Chap. 36] EVANGELISATION OF KOKI 187
a missionary meeting in Mengo a year later the story
of his experience — " first defiant opposition, slander,
misunderstandings, and then prayers answered —
charms brought to be broken and burnt — a weekly
congregation of two or three hundred souls, besides
others in the country — books bought in considerable
quantities, and sixty able to read a Gospel where not
one could read before."
In June 1895 Fisher was asked to undertake a
journey to Kolci in order to see how things were
prospering. His report was even more encouraging
than lame Mikaeri's. Of the eighty chiefs of the
country, twenty-four were able to read the Gospels,
and twelve were reading the Mateka (first reading-
books). During a stay of two months Fisher was
able to effect a good deal in the way of consohdation
of a work which had made such a promismg beginning.
Another step forward was taken at the end of the
year when Leakey was located in Koki as its first re
sident missionary ; with him was associated Tomasi
Semfuma, whom we saw in the preceding chapter
at work at Masindi in Bunyoro some three years
later. In AprU 1896 Roscoe visited Koki and conducted
a series of Mission services, which resulted in much
blessing. Then came the baptism of the first converts.
In October Pike followed in Roscoe's footsteps, and
baptized fourteen adults and eight chUdren. At the
close of the year the foUowing was Leakey's testimony
as to the progress which had been made : —
" When I arrived here there was but one church in
Koki, now there are eight ; then no baptized Christians,
now twenty-two adults and eight infants. Then
books sold very slowly, now there is a good sale. I
have about twenty-four names of candidates under

188 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
instruction for Baptism, and about sixteen for Confirma
tion. Drink is far less. Slavery and the slave trade
is also less — the king is trying to stop it. We have
much to thank God for. He has done wondrously."
In March 1897 Clayton was added to the missionary
force in Koki, and there was a promise of great things
in the near future. Pilkington was on a visit, and the
work was moving forward rapidly when aU at once
came a check. The " bolt from the blue " had faUen.
Mwanga had fled from the capital and had raised the
standard of revolt in Budu. The Httle missionary
band was thus cut off from aU help from Mengo.
However, Colonel Ternan, who was in command of the
forces, lost no time in marching against the daUy in
creasing army of the king under Gabrieh, the Mujasi.
They met near Kabuwoko. A short, sharp fight ensued,
with the result that Mwanga was totaUy defeated and
his forces dispersed. He himself fled (as has already
been told in an earher chapter) into German territory,
and was interned at Mwanza. The road to Mengo was
now open, and thither the Koki missionaries made
their way. There they were detained for some months,
owing to the disturbed state of the country, the
Sudanese mutiny foUowing close upon the flight of the
king. Even after his return Clayton had his house in
Budu burnt down by a wandering band of rebels, who
saluted him with shots as he emerged from the blazing
buUding. " We wUl let them see," said Clayton,
" that an Enghshman is not so easUy frightened as
they suppose." He at once commenced the building
of a new house of mud, with a roof of " byai " (banana
fibre), which was practicaUy fireproof. And so the
work went forward (Clayton spending half his tune in
Budu and haH m Koki), untU at the close of 1898
there were in the latter country some three hundred

Chap. 36] EVANGELISATION OF KOKI 189
readers, ninety-six of whom (excluding infants) were
baptized. And thus I found things on my first visit to Koki,
a sphere of work with a chequered history, as we have
seen, and yet with manifest tokens of God's blessing
resting upon it. My journey thither was fuU of in
terest. I determined to travel by canoe to Bujaju,
on the coast of Budu, and thence by road to Kajuna,
where Clayton had arranged to meet me, and where
he had a very promising work in hand.
Starting on Monday, April 10th, I camped at Kazi,
on the Lake shore, where old Nikodemo, the chief, had
a couple of large canoes in readiness. The puU to Busi
the next day was a long one, but fuU of that in
describable charm which is inseparable from Lake
travel. Skirting the shore, we passed at intervals
headlands and bays, islands and creeks, teeming with
life of all kinds, the sounds and sight of which were a
continual dehght. Away in the distance yonder, on the
seaward side, was a school of " hippos " blowing now
and again with that bass note of theirs, which seems
to come from a spot only a few yards off. Nervously
the canoe-men grasped their paddles, keeping their
eyes fixed upon the monsters, fearing lest at any
moment they might " come for us."
And then the bird hfe ! What a wonder it was —
dippers and NUe geese, swaUows and island parrots on
every side, continuaUy on the wing, with aU their
characteristic movements darting, diving, hovering or
circhng as the case might be. Yonder, not a hundred
yards away, high up in a crooked branch of an old
" Muvule " tree, overhanging a deep dark pool, was a
huge fish eagle, watching for its prey.
Even the depths below contributed their quota to
the sum of the Hfe above. OccasionaUy a great fish.

190 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
with scales ghttering hke burnished silver, would
fling itself into the air, and faihng with a great splash
would send the ever-widening circles rippling against
the sides of our frail craft, as she swept on her way
towards the forest glades of Busi.
It was a disappointment to find that Samwili
Kamwakabi, the teacher in charge, was away visiting
some of the more distant villages. However, there was
a goodly crowd to greet us, as towards sunset our
canoes shot their prows high up on the sandy shore of
the island, and we found ourselves at our camping-
place. The next day's camp was on the island of Sewaya,
where I found a little band of Christians, simple in
their faith, and apparently full of love and devotion
to their Lord and Master. A cold wind had been
blowing all day. The result was chill, fever, and a
restless, sleepless night. However, there could be no
delay, and so, wrapping up weU, I took my place a
little after dawn in the canoe and went on to Bujaju,
where we arrived about 4 p.m. It was here that my
difficulties commenced. I had counted on obtaining
porters from the chief for my onward journey to
Kajuna, some four hours away. But I had reckoned
without my host. A message to the chief, asking him
to come and see me, only resulted in the one word
" aganyi " (he refuses). A still more urgent message
met only with a similar response. Then came the
information that he had gone off to a neighbouring
garden. On inquiring of his steward the reason of
this conduct, I was informed that his master had re
ceived orders from the French priests to do nothing to
help me or any Protestant missionary. My men had
perforce to go hungry to bed, and I, in starting the
next morning, was obhged to leave aU my baggage

Chap. 36] EVANGELISATION OF KOKI 191
behind me. I was stiU feehng weak and ill. The road
was a most trying one — for miles I had to tramp across
a sandy plain, which evidently at no distant date
had formed the bed of an arm of the Great Lake. At
every step one sank about ankle deep in the soft sand.
In such circumstances two mUes an hour was good
travelhng. But the toil of it ! The weariness of it !
No words can fitly describe the absolute misery of it.
Occasionally I crouched down under the shade of a
small bush, for a Httle rest. But the thought that
the longer the delay the hotter the sun would get
urged me along. At length, almost fainting from
fatigue and exhaustion, I climbed the hiU on the crest
of which was the little Mission station of Kajuna.
At this particular period we were at the very be
ginning of things in Budu. The war of January 1892
had, it wUl be remembered, brought to an end an
occupation which had only lasted a few months.
Walker and Baskerville were barely able to escape
with their lives when the French party rushed in.
For six years the French priests were left in practicaUy
undisturbed possession of the province. Owing to the
pohtical settlement which followed the return of the
king, after his abduction, all the chieftainships were
in the hands of the Bafransa, and it was extremely
difficult to get even the smallest piece of land for a
Protestant Mission station. However, by dint of
putting great pressure upon Mugwanya (the Roman
Cathohc Katikiro), a fair site had been secured at
Kajuna, where Clayton had built his Mission-house.
A httle band of Christians whorn the latter had
gathered round him had given themselves up to the
work of teaching in the neighbouring gardens. Thus
a congregation had been brought together, and a smaU
church had been built where regular services were

192 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
being held and daily instruction given. I found
eighteen candidates for Confirmation awaiting me —
eleven men and seven women. The bracing atmos
phere of persecution had done much for their faith,
which was stiong and vigorous.
' The wind that blows can never kill
The tree God plants.'
From Kajuna a three days' journey through Budu
brought us to Koki. Here, as in the country we had
just passed through, we found on every hand traces
of the devastation wrought by the rebels. The old
Mission station buUt by Leakey, after having been used
by the soldiery as a fort, had been abandoned, and a
small grass and reed hut had been put up in its stead
near the king's enclosure.
The king's place was in ruins. The houses had been
burnt and the fences destroyed. The gardens had
faUen out of cultivation, and in consequence food was
scarce and the means of Hving very precarious. But
stiU the work was going forward. It was true there
was no church, but there was no neglect among the
Christians in the matter of assembling themselves
together for worship and instruction. The shelter of a
half -burnt house — the shade of a piece of the " kisakate "
(fence) yet standing — the " greenery " of the banana
plantation — it was aU the same, wherever shelter from
sun or rain was avaUable, there was the getting together
of the two or three seekers after God, claiming the
promise of the Presence.
I cherish no more sacred memory of my hfe than
the open air Confirmation service held on Sunday, April
23rd, in the shade of Kamswaga's "kisakate." Some
fifty-two candidates were presented by Mr. Clayton,
of whom thirty-seven were men and fifteen women.

Chap. 36] EVANGELISATION OF KOKI 193
These, with twenty-two other Commumcants, gathered
around the Table of the Lord in a solemn service of
Holy Communion. It was indeed a touching scene.
On every hand were tokens, plainly visible, of the
war which had swept through the land — broken
walls, charred beams and rafters, dilapidated fences,
creepers and wild weeds, the former chnging in
fantastic wreaths to the ruins around, and the latter
covering the open spaces with a carpet of verdure
beautiful to look upon but heartbreaking to peasant
and chief ahke — aU told more eloquently than words
of the troubles through which the country had so
recently passed.
The sunlight and the moving shadows, the rusthng
of the banana leaves as the breeze rose and fell, the
gathered worshippers pleading at the footstool of the
throne, the voice of the minister, the responses, the
solemn pauses when only the song-bird was vocal — all
combined to fashion a memory that will never fade so
long as Hfe shaU last.
Kamswaga, the king, I was thankful to find, was
persevering in his struggle with his old enemy strong
drink, and was Hving an altogether new hfe. Many
of his followers were under instruction, some indeed
with a view to baptism.
Clayton's house was the centre of a remarkable,
widespread influence. DaUy it was thronged with
inquirers, and every evening crowds of men and boys
came together, eager for the teaching which preceded
evening prayers.
It was clear that with peace in the country, and a
consequent returning prosperity, the work would go
forward by leaps and bounds. And so, with a heart fiUl
of thankfulness and praise for what I had seen of God's
work of grace in the hearts of the people, on Monday,
II N

194 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
AprU 24th, I brought my five days' visit to a close
and started on my way to Sango, on the Lake shore,
where I proposed to embark for the Sese Islands.
Clayton accompanied me upon the way so far.
We had halted for our mid-day rest at the house of
a friendly chief, when a man rushed in shouting,
" Bamukwata," i.e. " They have caught him." " Whom
have they caught ? " was our not unnatural inquiry.
And then came the starthng answer, " Mwanga,
Kabaka." Little by httle the story was told of how
Colonel Evatt, who was in command of the troops in
Bunyoro, had planned an expedition into Bukedi,
where Mwanga was in hiding. Andereya the Kim
bugwe and Simei Kakungulu had, it seems, opened up
communication with the natives, and had obtained
accurate information as to the whereabouts of the
fugitive king. Very complete arrangements were
made for the passage of the Nile by the expedition,
and for the surprise, if possible, of the whole party,
including Kabarega, the king of Bunyoro. The whole
enterprise was a complete success. Hidden by the
early morning mists, on April 9th the forces moved
forward in absolute silence, their object being to
surround the viUage where the rebels were in hiding.
The attack was dehvered at about 10 a.m. The sur
prise was complete. There was a short sharp fight, in
the course of which Kabarega was wounded, but he
and his two sons, Tao and Nakana, were captured.
Mwanga almost died of fright when he reahsed that
his race was run, and rushed out of his place of hiding
crying, " I am Mwanga — take me — don't kUl me." He,
together with a number of Baganda rebel chiefs and
Sudanese mutineers, also became prisoners.
This victory, almost dramatic in its completion,
practicaUy brought to an end the troublous period

vV / '

Chap. 36] EVANGELISATION OF KOKI 195
which was inaugurated by the flight of the king, nearly
two years before. Gabrieh and other rebel chiefs,
with the remnant of the mutineers, were stUl at large,
but with the capture of both Mwanga and Kabarega
their position, as the event proved, was a hopeless one.
Colonel Evatt's notable victory was the signal for
their dispersion. Each one sought to make terms for
himself, Gabrieh giving himself up to the German
authorities at Bukoba. And so peace came and once
more spread its sheltering wings over the long dis
tracted land of Uganda.
Cheered by the good news, we went on our way with
light hearts to Bale, on the coast of southern Budu.
Arriving tired at the close of a long day, it was a great
dehght to be welcomed by a large body of warm
hearted Christians, whom the teacher, a man named
Yeremiya, had gathered round him.
Canoes were ready, and on the foUowing morning,
having bidden farewell to Clayton and the Bale
readers, I started on my voyage to Sese, en route to
Bukasa, where Mr. Gordon had arranged to meet me.
The day was fine and the wind fair, so that steady
paddhng for some five hours sufficed to take us across
the channel to the south end of the great island.
A little group of readers rushed forward with shouts
of welcome to greet me, as, with a song in chorus, the
paddlers working as one man, and the steersman dash
ing the sparkhng water high into the air, drove our
craft on to the sandy shore.
It was a great joy to gather at sundown for evening
prayer in the little church of reeds and grass, which
served as a reading place during the week, and a place
of worship on the Lord's Day, for a congregation of
some thirty or forty souls. Two of this Httle flock I
found were candidates for Confirmation, and were to

196 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
journey with me on the morrow to the island of Bukasa,
which was the centre of our island work, and where I
had arranged to hold a Confirmation service.
The onward voyage to Bukasa was full of the deepest
interest. At one moment we were ghding smoothly
along under the shadow of a beetling crag which rose
abruptly from the water's edge to a height of some seventy
or a hundred feet. At another cutting across a narrow
strait we were pitching and tossing on the glittering
waterway, occasionally being drenched by a shower of
spray as we ventured to put the canoe's head to the
wind. Then later, as we neared the further shore, a
school of hippos would rouse our men into a sudden
burst of fearful energy, and, dashing their paddles into
the still water of the Lake, they woiUd make once more
for the open sea. The sunshine and the shade, the
woods, the rocks and the distant hills, the fresh and
fragrant breeze, the lapping water, the cawing rooks,
the leaping fish, and a thousand charms of earth and
air, of sky and water, all ahke had their share in filhng
the soul not merely with images of beauty, but with a
deep sense of the greatness and glory of the Creator.
Mr. and Mrs. Gordon welcomed me most warmly to
their island home. The former, who was in charge of
the work in the Sese Archipelago, had as his native
colleague Henry Mukasa, a man of tried worth, who
had formerly been a missionary to the people of Nasa.
Confirmation candidates from the neighbouring islands
had come together for examination, and on Sunday,
April 30th, eighty-six of them — men and women —
received the laying on of hands.
On Tuesday, May 2nd, I started for the island of
Bubembe, in company with Mr. Gordon. There
another Confirmation had been arranged, and seventy-
eight candidates were presented to me at a service

Chap. 36] EVANGELISATION OF KOKI 197
held in a new church, which had recently been opened
for worship.
This brought my Hst of engagements to a close, and
on the following morning I started on my return to
Mengo, where some three days later I arrived and
found all well.

CHAPTER XXXVII
captivity and death of mwanga
' How are the mighty fallen ! ' — II. Samukl i. 19.
The news of the capture of Mwanga and Kabarega
created a great sensation throughout the whole of
Uganda. The excitement was intense, though sub
dued. The question as to what the Bazungu (the
white men) intended to do with their prisoners was
eagerly discussed in every native gathering. Would
they be shot, as several Baganda rebels had been
already, or would they be put into the chain gang,
and be compelled to work like common malefactors ?
were the questions most commonly debated. " What
is the use of talking ? " was the general conclusion.
" You can never tell what the Bagovamenti (the men
of the Government) are likely to do." Not long were
they kept in suspense. Deportation to the coast, first
to Mombasa, and then to Kismayu, was to be the fate
of the two kings.
It was evidently a great relief to the great mass of
the Baganda that their king, tyrant though he was,
was not to be put to death. The extraordinary
hold which the idea of the kingship has on the native
mind can hardly be reahsed by the European.
" Katonda Yebale " (Thank God) was the exclamation
most commonly heard coming from the hps of the
Baganda Christians as they heard the news. " Al lazungu
bamusaside " (the Europeans have pitied him), was
their summing up of the whole matter.
IDS

CiiAi-. 37 1 DEATH OF MWANGA 199
On May II th, happening to caU on Colonel Ternan
(tho Acting Commissioner) at Kampala, I was told that
tli(^ two kings wero momentarily expected. They were
being brought iu under gimrd. The report was soon
noised abroad and crowds began to gather. There
was a little iinxioty on the part of the authorities as to
the altitude of the "Bakopi" (peasantry), and every
precfviilion had been taken to prevent any attempt at a
rosc,ii(\ The inurniur of voices at a distance, gradually
getting louder and louder, told of the approach of a
great multitude. The murmur grew into a roar, and
(hiMi the sight of fully armed guards told us that
Mwanga and [Cabaniga were at hand. Lying upon a
nati\'e bodstoad carried on the heads of half-a-dozen
port(Ms was the late king of Bunyoro. His arm was
in bandages, owing ti> a wound received at the time of
his captuiv.
Mwangii, was walking surrounded by guards. He
had grown a long bojird, and was hardly recognisable.
" Otytino sebo " (" I low arc you, sir ? ") resounded on
all sides. It was a touching and, in many respects, a
[liliablo sight. One could not but recall the many
o[)f)(u-t'iiiiitios which Mwanga had enjoyed of doing tho
right, and how persistently he had chosen to do tho
wrong, and certainly in his later days had sinned
againsti liglii. and knowledge. But yet, if one sought
to liiul excuses for him, one could not but remember
his up-bringing- his evil surroundings, his hereditary
teiuleiu'iivs. his awful temptations, and truly one felt
that, the weight of these might well drag downward a
man of much stouter moral fibre than this sinning,
and by no means little sinned against, son of Mutesa.
TIuMU'cforwanl — but iu this I am anticipating — his
tiguiv is but a more shallow to us. We hear of him
from time to time — a prisoner at Mombasa, Kismayu,

200 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book \.
and eventually in tho Seychelles. Theu there is a. long
silence, broken by the glad news that he had uccopted
Christ as his God and Saviour, and has been baptized,
taking the name of Danieri. A few more months pass
by, and then came the tidings of his death.
There was weeping and waiUng on the part of many
in Uganda when the news was noised abroad. l^]\on
the worst men have those who love them. An elTorti
was made by many of his old followers to lia.\e his
remains brought back to IMeugo for burial, but })er-
mission was very wisely refused. He was laid to rest
yonder in that lonely island of the Indian Ocean, in
which the mystical mind of General Gordon seemed to
see the original site of the Garden of Eden. And so
he passes from our view, and from the stage where he
had played so tragic and so fateful a part.
' AfltM- life's til fill fovi-r lio Hli'op.'3 well."
But to return to my story, the next few months
were taken up with many engagements in and around
Mengo. After a visit to Gayaza, where thirty-five
men and nineteen women were confirmed on May 21st,
there came a very busy week of examination work-.
Six men trained by the Archdeacon had been selected
by the Church Council for presentation to me for Deacons
Orders. Ecob and Skeens were candidates for Priests
Orders. On Trinity Sunday, May 28th, the following
were solemnly ordained : —
DcaroiiH. — Nuwii Niikiwiifii, ToinnHi Sonifiiina, Zaknyo Uiili-
gwanga, Isaka Lwaki, Yosua Kiwavu, Siliisi Aliwonya.
Pri.c.sts.~0. T. Ecob, S. R. Skeens.
Of these perhaps Tomasi Semfuma has the most
interesting hfe record. One of the fii'sli to aceept
Christian teaching, on the occasion of the in^rsocutitui

Chap. 37] DEATH OF MWANGA 201
of Mwanga he was seized and ordered to be burnt.
His Hfe was, however, spared on Mackay paying down
two tusks of ivory, which were charged to the C.M.S.
He was one of those who sought shelter in Nkole at
the time of the Mohammedan domination. In the war
of 1892 he was wounded, a shot from the enemy ripped
across his chest, but, owing to the skill of Dr. Gaskoin
Wright, his life was saved. He stUl bears on his body
the scars. A forcible character, he is a man of con
siderable weight in the counsels of the Church. Nuwa
Nakiwafu is a spiritually minded man, very earnest
and very painstalcing.
Yosua Kiwavu is above everything an evangehst.
A man of strong convictions and considerable preaching
powers. But all were described to me as good men
and true, and it was with a very thankful heart that I
set them apart for the work to which they seemed so
manifestly called.
The month of June was crowded with engagements
of the most varied kind. On the 11th two lay readers
were admitted to their office. On the 13th came the
dedication of the new church at Ndeje, in celebration
of which the Kangao made a great feast, when five
oxen were killed and eaten, and five hundred baskets
of food were consumed. The 15th saw me once more
at Mengo, and two days later I started for Nakanyonyi,
where, on the 18th, a hundred and thirty-one men and
women were confirmed. On the 19th Mengo was
reached once more, and on the following day I started
for the island of Kome, where I arrived at 3.30 p.m. A
Confirmation the next morning, when thirty-two candi
dates were confirmed, and a conference with teachers,
was all that had been arranged for me, and starting
back as soon as these were over, I was able to reach
my house in Namirembe by 7 p.m., thus doing the

202 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
double journey within twenty-four hours. On the 23rd
came a Confirmation at Mengo, when fifty-nine candi
dates were presented. On the 24th there was a long
meeting of the Translational Committee, and on Sunday
the 25th an Enghsh service with sermon, for a con
gregation of twenty-four Europeans. The two follow
ing days were filled up with meetings, both morning
and evening, of the Translational Committee, and then
on the 28th came the Conference of Missionaries, which
had been summoned speciaUy to consider further the
question of a Constitution for the Church.
After a solemn service of Holy Communion, with an
address by myself, the Conference settled down to the
consideration of the burning question as to whether the
European missionaries were to be included within the
Constitution, or on the other hand to be excluded from
it, and find their places as advisers of the Native Church,
which they themselves did not join. The latter pro
posal was that favoured by the majority in the Con
ference, and as I regarded the former as a fundamental
principle, I withdrew my draft Constitution as a whole
from further discussion. I then proposed that so much
of it as had a general consensus of opinion in its favour
should be adopted and become the working rule of the
Church. I felt that " half a loaf was better than no
bread." Indeed it was more than half a loaf which
was obtained by the adoption of my suggestion. In
fact three-fourths of the Constitution were agreed to.
Parochial and District CouncUs were provided for, as
weU as the maintenance of the Central CouncU at
Mengo. The Elector, it was decided, should be the
Communicant, the offices of readers, teachers, and
women teachers were put upon a recognised and regular
basis. Women's Conferences were arranged for each
district, and for the centre at Mengo. The Central

Chap. 37] DEATH OF MWANGA 203
Conference consisted of delegates chosen by the District
Conference, two from each Conference. A Central
Church Fund was also established. These proposals
a few months later were brought before the Church
Council at Mengo, and were formally adopted as the
working rule of the Church. I gave it my sanction,
but only as a temporary measure, as an instalment of
that complete scheme which I hoped in time would
meet with general acceptance as a full and generous
measure of Church Government.
The Conference then passed to the consideration of
a number of matters of the greatest importance, " The
higher education of the native clergy and teachers,"
and " How best to organise a more thorough system
of education for the young." Subjects more intimately
bound up with the truest interests of the Church in
Uganda it would be difficult to conceive. As is the
life of the clergy, so will be the life of the people.
Ignorance in the clergy means ignorance in the people.
I have already, in a previous chapter, enlarged upon
the pre-eminent value of character in a minister of the
Gospel, and how infinitely it is to be preferred to that
which commonly is regarded as education. In the
earlier stages of missionary work it is vain to look for
much else in Church workers than spiritual life and
moral worth. But in 1899 we were passing out of the
earher stage. A new era was dawning both upon the
Church and the country. Six years had passed by
since the foundation of the native ministry had been
laid, and it was time to take a step forward and to
devise means by which, in addition to spiritual life and
moral worth, there might be added to the equipment
of our native pastors that culture and mental training
which is the outcome of study and the fruit of instruc
tion properly and wisely imparted. We therefore

204 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
decided to embark upon a considerable translational
work — a commentary on the four Gospels and the
Acts from the Cambridge Bible, Maclear's " Old Testa
ment History," a work on Church doctrine, Maclear's
" Introduction to the Creeds," and so forth. It was
also arranged to assign another missionary to the
special work of teaching, one who should give his un
divided attention to the training of Church Council
teachers in Mengo.
The two great obstacles in the way of a thorough
organisation of educational work amongst the young
were the lack of school buildings and properly trained
teachers. The former need could only be supphed by
the Church CouncU. It was therefore decided to
bring the matter before that body as soon as possible.
The latter great necessity was a much more difficult
problem to deal with. You cannot train a teacher as
you can " run up " a school buUding. There seems to
be a general impression in the Mission field that any
body can teach in a school. No greater mistake can
possibly be made. Some one has said, and said truly,
that the four chief quahfications of a teacher are :
" Character, teaching abihty, scholarship, and culture."
WhUe it is quite true that no amount of training can
ever take the place of natural abihty, it is also true
that it is only by means of a thorough system of train
ing that natural abihty can be properly developed, and
ordinary abihty (and this is what we have mainly to
deal with in the Mission field) be utihsed for the due
fiUing of that high and holy office — the office of the
teacher of the young.
With such thoughts in mind, the Conference dis
cussed, and eventuaUy adopted, the following re
solution : —
" This Conference is of opinion that immediate steps

Chap. 37] DEATH OF MWANGA 205
should be taken to organise a thorough system of
training school-teachers, both male and female."
A Conference of Lady Missioners, held a few days
later, adopted a similar resolution. Thus was the
Church committed to a forward policy, both with
regard to the higher education of pastors and school
teachers, and also with regard to an organised system
of primary education throughout the country.
Another subject dealt with by the Conference was,
" How best to foster a spirit of prayer among the
native Christians." It was decided to recommend the
estabhshment of a weekly meeting for prayer in con
nection with every congregation throughout the
country. It was further resolved to issue a manual of
devotion, as an aid to Christians in private and family
prayer. A consideration of the very necessary subject of the
best method for the registration of Communicants
brought our Conference to a close.
In order to enhst as far as possible the co-operation
of parents and chiefs in the good work of education
upon which we had now embarked, I had the following
letter translated into Luganda. It was then presented
as a leaflet, and scattered broadcast throughout the
country. A Word on Education addressed to Parents
AND Chiefs by the Bishop op Uganda
My Friends, — I greet you in the name of the Lord
and beseech you to hearken to my words.
God has given to every human being wonderful
powers of mind. These powers may be exercised either
in good works or works of evU. " As a twig is bent, so
will the tree inchne." As you train the chUd so the

206 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
man or woman will be. Solomon says (Prov. xxii. 6),
" Train up a child in the way he should go, and when
he is old he will not depart from it." If a child is
untaught, what wonder if he grows up to be a fool ?
If he is allowed to grow up in the midst of wicked
surroundings, what wonder if he becomes a wicked
man ?
Every chief and every parent has a responsibihty
laid upon him with regard to the children under his
care. First, I would speak a word to parents. My friends,
your children are God's gifts to you, and He expects
you to train them for Himself. St. Paul in writing
to the Ephesians says, " and ye fathers provoke not
your children to wrath, but bring them up in the
nurture and admonition of the Lord " (Eph. vi. 4).
Many parents send their children to be brought up in
other homes. This is an evil custom. It is the work
of the parent to watch over the child, and to train it
in good habits. Moses, in speaking to the Israelites,
commanded them to teach their children the law of
the Lord their God (Deut. xxxi. 13), that they might
learn to fear them. This God calls upon you now to do.
When at the last day you are called upon to give an
account of the way in which you have dealt with the
children whom God has given you, it will be no good
excuse to say that the persons to whom you entrusted
your children trained them ill. It is your duty to
train them yourself, or to send them to school where
you know they will be well taught.
Now, I want to tell you, that we on Namirembe are
establishing schools all over the country, and that we
are prepared to teach your children not only the law
of God but other good things, such as reading, writing,
and arithmetic. A great change is coming over the

Chap. 37] DEATH OF MWANGA 207
country. There will be work to be done which can
only be done by those who have learned to read and
write. The better taught your children are, the better
work they will be able to do, and the happier and more
prosperous wUl be their lives. I would advise you,
therefore, to make it a rule of your house that your
children go to school every day to be taught.
And now I want to say a word to chiefs. My
friends, you have a duty to discharge with regard to
the children of those under your authority. It is to
see that they do not grow up in ignorance. The
prosperity of Uganda will depend upon the education
of the children. If they are left to grow up in ignorance
they will be unfitted to take any but the lowest place
in the life and work of the country.
A good chief will consider the welfare of his people.
He will advise them to send their children to school,
because he knows that ignorance and degradation
always go together, whilst prosperity and happiness
will always be the lot of those who have been well
taught. My friends, you have many boys who wait on you.
I beseech you to send them to school every day. And
I plead with you not only on behalf of the boys but
also of the girls. Let them not be left in ignorance.
We are prepared to teach them as well as the boys.
If they are well taught, they will make good wives
and good mothers. Leave them in ignorance, and the
result will be that the children of the next generation
will be no better than the children of the last. Use
all your influence on the side of education and progress.
If you give your people education, you wiU give them
that which is worth more than gold, silver, ivory, or
cattle, for the Word of God tells us that " the price of
wisdom is above rubies " (Job xxvin. 18).

208 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
Well then, my friends, if these things be so, hearken
to my words, and do that which in your hearts you
know to be right.
FareweU. May God keep you in all your ways.
I am your friend, who loves you in the Lord.
Alfred R. Tucker,
Bishop of Uganda.

CHAPTER XXXVIII
BUSOGA
' AU souls are thine ! the wings of morning bear
None from that presence which is everywhere.
Nor hell itseK can hide, for thou art there.' Whittieb.
Let us now turn from the comparatively ordered and
settled condition of things both in Church and State in
Uganda, and see how all this while matters were faring
in the more backward country of Busoga. Its back
wardness (about which there could be no question) was
due very largely to that position of subordination
which for many years it had occupied with respect to
Uganda. Naturally rich and fertile, with immense
flocks and herds, it had long been the happy hunting
ground of the more warhke and strenuous race dwelhng
on the opposite bank of the Nile, who, not content with
carrying off their sheep and goats, had enslaved for
bartering away, in exchange for guns and powder,
thousands of men and women.
Another reason for the backward condition of the
Basoga and their position of subordination is, I think,
to be found in their tenacious hold upon a method of
government which did not make for progress. WhUst
they had doubtless risen superior to the more primitive
conditions of life which distinguish the tribes living
under the patriarchal system, they had not yet ad
vanced to the idea of the kingship and the feudal
system as it obtains in Uganda — a system which had
II '°» o

210 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
without question given to the Baganda that cohesion
which had enabled them to conquer and to keep in
subjection peoples like the Basoga, standing midway
between such tribes as the Bakavirondo, who stiU
clung to the patriarchal idea, and themselves, who had
risen to a realisation of the advantages of the feudal
method of government.
The feudal system in Europe did its work and played
its part in the making of the nations, and it has passed
away. It is true that the very thought of it suggests
to our mind the " dark ages." But in "" darkest
Africa " it means law and order, cohesion and national
supremacy. It has done its work in L'ganda as in
Europe, and in due turn it wUl be
' Numbered with the things
That once have been.'
In the meanwhUe it has its uses : for it distinctly
makes for a higher condition of things than that which
obtains in those countries Hke Bukedi and Kavirondo,
where through each httle chief being a law unto him
self, and as good as his neighbour, the ruling principle
seems to be : ' Let him take who has the power,
And he can keep who can.'
Busoga at the time of which I am writing was divided
into seven great chieftainships, viz., Wakoh, Luba,
iliro, Tabingwa, Gabula, Nkono, and Zibondo. Each
of these was independent of the other — jealous as weU
as fearful of the other. The only unifying force in
Busoga was a common language. But even this was
powerless to unite the rival forces against a common
foe. An effort made by Mr. Berkeley, the British
Administrator of the Uganda Protectorate, to bring the

Chap. 38] BUSOGA 211
various chiefs to recognise one of •themselves as para
mount chief or king of the nation, failed completely.
They would have none of it.
But their division, and their consequent impotence
in the presence of their enemies, was not the only cause
of the degradation of the Busoga. Drunkenness,
bhang-smoking, and lust were doing a deadly work
amongst them. Naturally a clever people, their in
tellects have been dulled, and their physical energy
sapped, by vices more menacing far to their national
life than the plundering and enslaving Baganda.
Political pressure had failed to unite this divided
people with a view to temporal advancement and
material prosperity. It was reserved for that greatest
of all unifying forces, Christianity, to knit them
together in the closest of all bonds, the bonds of
Christian love and union — not a union for conflict
with their ancient foes the Baganda, but a union for
battle with the forces and powers of darkness, which
for so long ages had held them in cruel bondage.
How this was brought about, and how slowly but
surely Christianity won its way in Busoga in the face
of opposition fierce and deep, and indeed at times
almost deadly, let me tell as briefly and shortly as
possible. In 1891 F. C. Smith, who had formed one of my
party travelling to Uganda the previous year, journeyed
to Busoga in company with Gordon. Among other
chiefs, Wakoli was visited. He was a man of remark
able gifts, and free from many of the vices and super
stitions of his people. He was, moreover, on very
friendly terms with the British East Africa Company.
So encouraging was their reception, and so inviting
appeared the opening, that early in 1892 Smith re
turned alone, with the idea of definitely commencing

212 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
the evangehsation of the country. Captain Lugard, on
his way to the coast, speciaUy commended him to the
care of Wakoh.
Shortly after Smith's arrival the terrible tragedy
occurred to which aUusion has already been made,
when Wakoh was shot, either wUfuUy or accidentaUy
(it has never been properly determined which), by a
Swahih porter. Smith had a narrow escape from
death at the hands of the infuriated people. This,
of course, brought to a conclusion the attempt to
evangehse Eastern Busoga ; and Smith returned to
Uganda, and was shortly afterwards invahded home.
In the meanwhUe Roscoe had commenced work at
Luba's. But repeated attacks of fever, induced by the
low and unhealthy situation of the grass hut which
had been built by Luba for his accommodation, broke
down his health, and he was obhged, hke Smith, to
retreat to Uganda.
It was not imtU two years later that another definite
attempt was made to enter Busoga. On the faUure of
Messrs. Crabtree and Rowhng to effect a settlement at
Mumia's in Ka\Trondo, owing in a large measure to the
scarcity of food and the lack of barter goods, they
were transferred to Busoga. Rowling made Kigwisa,
near Luba's, his headquarters, and Crabtree set to
work at Miro's, some four-and-twenty mUes away in a
northerly direction.
The work was carried on in the face of much opposi
tion on the part of the principal chiefs ; though out
wardly friendly they were secretly hostUe, and strove
by every means in their power to frustrate our efforts
to evangehse and teach their people. For some time
most of the teaching went on in secret at night, or in
out-of-the-way places. Not infrequently some case of
cruel treatment of a helpless woman or an inoffensive

Chap. 38] BUSOGA 213
chUd came to the ears of the missionaries. In nearly
every instance the victim was a reader. It seemed
almost as though we must face a revival of the early
days of persecution in Uganda. There could be no
doubt but that the priests of the Lubare were at the
bottom of aU this fierce opposition and cruelty. The
hold which heathenism — the old Lubare worship — had
stUl upon the chiefs and people was intense. Evidence
of this was to be seen on every hand. Clumps of trees
used as shrines met you at every tum. The peaked
devU houses, which are hardly ever seen now in Uganda,
seemed almost as numerous as the huts of the people.
It was almost impossible to go along a pubhc path
without being obhged to pass under some arrange
ments of charms intended for the propitiation of evU
spirits. The powers of darkness were entrenched as
in an impregnable stronghold, and it was evident that
only by the might of the " stronger than the strong
man armed " could they be dispossessed of that
sovereignty over the minds and consciences of the
Basoga, which for so long ages they had exercised.
Rowling with his medicine-chest attracted many sick
ones to the Mission, and so insensibly a circle for some
considerable distance round was influenced. Then
came appHcations for instruction from those whose
hearts had been touched. And so the work grew
almost imperceptibly.
In these early days Lusoga was the language in
which it was sought to reach the people. Reading
sheets were printed in the httle press which had been
set up at Kigwisa. Then the work of translating the
Gospels into the vernacular was taken in hand by
Mr. Crabtree. But there was noticed a desire on the
part of many to read in Luganda. Whether it was
from a feeling that the old Hfe was so bound up with

214 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
Lusoga that it was impossible to get entirely free from
much that had become hateful unless the old language
was forsaken, or whether it was simply a desire to
acquire Luganda, as an accomplishment, and as
identified with the white teachers, who understood and
spoke the one with facihty, but the other very stumb-
lingly, it is hard to say. At any rate it soon became a
moot question as to which was to be the prevailing
tongue. The principle ultimately adopted was that which
has been applied to such countries as Bunyoro, Toro,
and Nkole (where similar phenomena have been ob
served), viz., that all evangehstic work should, as far
as possible, be done in the vernacular, but that in
educational work Luganda might be the language of
instruction. One of the greatest obstacles to the progress of
missionary work in Africa is the multiphcity of its
languages. The confusion is Babel-hke in its com
pleteness. Now to those who have carefully observed
philological phenomena in the " dark continent," it is
quite clear that while certain languages are dying,
others have in them all the elements of a continued
vitality. It is of the utmost importance, therefore,
that nothing should be done by the missionary to
wards reviving those languages which are evidently
moribund. The reduction of such languages to
writing, and the translation of the Scriptures, are all
potent elements in their perpetuation, and should, if
possible, be avoided. I say if possible, because I hold
it to be the inahenable right of all peoples, and kindreds,
and nations, and tongues to have the Gospel proclaimed
to them in a language understood by them. It is
always possible, however, to draw a line between the
evangelisation and the education of a people. If,

Chap. 38] BUSOGA 215
therefore, there is a rich, full, and vigorous language
which is evidently driving before it a poor, weak, and
dying tongue, it will always be the wisdom of the
missionary to use, as far as possible, the widely spoken
language in preference to the one which has only a
low vitality. You can never hope to give a literature
to the people speaking the latter. It may be possible
to do it for the former.
I have sometimes been asked to what I attribute
.the sudden leap forward in the progress of the work
in Uganda, which is so marked a feature of the period
commencing in 1890. There were in my opinion
several contributing causes, but one of the chief I
beheve to have been the abandonment of the use of
Swahili in our teaching work, and steady perseverance
in the policy of giving the Baganda the Word of God
in their own tongue.
Mackay, it is true, did a notable translational work
in Uganda, but in his later days he was very desirous
of hastening the time when one language should
dominate Central Africa, and that language, he hoped
and beheved, would be Swahili. But he miscalculated
the results likely to accrue through the translation of
the Scriptures into Luganda. He hardly foresaw the
powers of resistance which it would give to that lan
guage. We, however, who can look back over the
years that are gone, can trace it distinctly. We see
that Swahili has hardly made any advance at all
during the last fifteen years. Then Swahili books
were eagerly sought for. Now hardly any one will
accept them as a gift. And we are profoundly thank
ful that it is so. Swahih is too closely related to
Mohammedanism to be welcome in any Mission field
in Central Africa.
, Divine guidance to the Church is, thank God, a great

216 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
reality, and there is no event in the history of the
Church of Uganda which proves it more conclusively
than the rejection in 1890 of Swahili as a teaching
medium, and the enthusiastic adoption of Luganda
both for evangehstic and educational purposes.
That there should be one " language " for Central
Africa is a consummation devoutly to be wished, but
God forbid that it should be SwahUi. English ? Yes !
but Swahili never. The one means the Bible and
Protestant Christianity, the other Mohammedanism,
sensuahty, moral and physical degradation and ruin.
But to return to my story. Although between 1892
and 1894 no European missionaries were stationed in
Busoga, the work begun in 1891 was not allowed to
lapse. Baganda evangelists were from the first en
gaged in the enterprise, and in the intervals of European
occupation continued the work.
In journeying to Uganda from the coast in the
autumn of 1895, Allen Wilson, who formed a member
of my party, was left behind at Luba's, and commenced
that work which so bravely and successfully he has
carried forward up to the present time. In the follow
ing year H. W. Weatherhead was added to the force
operating in Busoga. Then came Martin Hall. And
so I found the party constituted when, at the con
clusion of the Conference at Mengo to which reference
has already been made, I determined to see for myself
how things were prospering.
Leaving Mengo on July 17, 1899, I arrived at
Luba's four days later, having held a Confirmation at
Ngogwe on the way, when eighty-six men and women
received the laying on of hands. Luba was in " high
feather " in consequence of the increasing importance
of his chieftainship. The Government had made
Luba's the capital of the country. There were two

Chap. 38] BUSOGA 217
Missions planted almost at his very doors. Europeans,
Government men, traders, and missionaries were
always coming and going. All this, of course, meant
" grist to his mill." There was the heavy toll which
he exacted for the use of canoes with which to make
the crossing to Uganda. There was employment for
his men, of whose wages he took a share. There was
the sale of the produce of his gardens, of his flocks
and herds, and so forth. Luba was fast becoming not
only a man of consequence but also a man of wealth.
Whether his heart was being touched by the Gospel
to which he listened, Sunday by Sunday, in the little
church on the hill, or in the one in his own enclosure,
it is hard to say. At all events his attitude towards
the Mission was most friendly. On my arrival he
came almost immediately to greet me and invited me
to a feast on the following day.
A native feast in Central Africa is a fearful and
wonderful sight. Then the native is seen at his very
worst. He tears his meat like a wild beast. He
gorges himself like a boa-constrictor. He is the animal
pure and simple. In Uganda such savagery is slowly
dying out with the advance of civihsation and contact
with the European. But in Busoga, at the time of
which I am writing, such influences were only just
beginning to be felt, and the native feast was altogether
untouched by any of the refinements of civihsed Hfe.
HappUy, our part in the repast preceded that of the
natives. Willing hands soon covered the ground in
front of us with bright green banana leaves. Then
came a long procession of youths bearing upon their
heads heavy burdens of cooked food in wicker baskets.
These were quickly taken from their banana leaf
wrappings, and lo ! fish, flesh, and fowl lay before us,
inviting us to fall to. Forks and spoons were minus

218 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
quantities — a knife was the only implement which the
helpless " Muzungu " (European) had to aid him in his
efforts to appear to enjoy the hospitality of his host.
That, however, with the help of his fingers, which had
been previously washed with water poured upon them
by an attendant, enabled him to pass muster as a guest
who appreciated the good things set before him.
The hungry crowd without had not long to wait.
Very soon the word was passed round, " Abazungu
bamaze okulya " (the Europeans have finished eating).
Immediately the murmur of voices, which told of a
gathered multitude outside, grew into a hoarse roar,
almost indeed to a tumult. " Come," said Luba, " and
let us see them eat." It was a sight not easily for
gotten. Two or three thousand men and women
were gathered on the two sides of their " mbuga " (the
space in front of the chief's enclosure). The men in
groups of ten or a dozen on the one side, and the women
in similar groups on the other. Three hundred baskets
of food, consisting of boiled bananas and the stewed
flesh of a dozen bullocks which had been killed in
honour of our coming, had just been brought upon the
scene and were in process of distribution.
Word was brought to the chief that all was ready.
" Let them eat," was the response. Then ensued such
a scene as baffles all description. The hot " matoke "
(boiled bananas) was seized and crammed down the
throat at lightning speed, then lumps of meat were
laid hold of and torn to pieces with the teeth, and
as greedily swallowed, without mastication and with
imminent risk of choking. Here was the rib bone of
an ox with four men gnawing at it. There the jaw
bone had three boys hanging on to it with their teeth.
Here — but the sight altogether was too disgusting, and
one turned away with loathing from this mass of poor

Chap. 38] BUSOGA 219
degraded humanity, which seemed to have but one
object in life — self-satisfaction. " Let us eat and drink
for to-morrow we die," sums it all up.
On the following day, July 25th, Martin HaU and I
started on our tour through Southern Busoga. My
programme included visits to all the great chiefs, as
well as to our evangelists and teachers. I hoped to
induce many of the former to admit our workers, if
not to their enclosure, at least to their country, and so
graduaUy to break down that wall of opposition which
was so seriously hampering our efforts for the evange
hsation of the country. Kajaya was the first of these
great chiefs to whom we paid our respects. I had
already some acquaintance with him, having camped
at his village on more than one occasion. He was as
plausible as ever, and to all my requests yielded a ready
assent. Oh ! yes, he would be glad to have teachers
in his country, and they should have complete freedom
to go where they pleased and teach what they pleased.
Would he allow his women and children to be taught ?
Certainly, there was nothing of which he was more
desirous than that they should learn something of the
wisdom of the white man — and so on. All this was
very satisfactory as far as it went. But one knew
from bitter experience the real value of such assurances
from such a man as I knew Kajaya to be. However,
there was nothing more to be done than to accept his
assurances, and definitely to fix a date and a place for
the commencement of the work thus sanctioned. Ob
struction and violation of pledges could be dealt with as
occasion might be given. And so we went on our way.
Our journey through Busoga was a strange and
weird experience from many points of view. There
was the close contact with the ancient superstitions
of the country — Lubare worship — into which we were

220 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
necessarily brought. There was the only too evident
thraldom to its powers by wliich the people, men and
women ahke, were bound. There was the atmosphere
of deep, dark heathenism, which we were breathing, so
to speak, and which at times seemed stifling in its
density. The air too was resonant with the weeping
and waihng of mourners. Some thousands of Basoga
porters had recently been employed by the Adminis
tration in conveying the baggage of the Indian con
tingent to rail head, and large numbers had perished
on the way back from Kikuyu. There was hardly a
home in South Busoga which was not a house of mourn
ing. But what perhaps struck us most of all was the
extreme timidity of the people. On catching sight of
us in the road they would dart off into the long grass
for hiding, or make their way in a bee-hne across the
open country until some convenient cover would hide
them from our view.
All this was very depressing in its apparently utter
hopelessness. But nevertheless there was a good deal
to cheer and encourage. The evident warm-hearted
ness of the people when once their timidity was over
come and their confidence won, the attentive hearing
which they gave to our teaching and the ready response
made to our appeals, touched us to the heart. And
then there was the glorious scenery through which we
passed on our way from viUage to viUage. How
inspiring the sight of the giant trees beneath whose
gracious shelter we so often found rest and refresh
ment ! How tender, too, the pearly greys of the
distant hUls, and how vividly they contrasted with
the bright greens and dark browns of the foreground
vegetation, wonderful in its wealth of luxuriant
growth. Truly Busoga, in its scenery, is an earthly
paradise.

<
ooP m
o HZ;<< m<;

Chap. 38] BUSOGA 221
From Menya's we went on to Musitwa's, and from
thence to Mutanda's (Wakoh's). The latter place was
quite changed since my last visit in 1895. Mutanda
himself, however, was much the same — as sottish and
brutal-looking as ever, and as much given to strong
drink and bhang-smoking. The teacher at work here
gave us a sorrowful account of the moral and spiritual
condition of the place, and the dead wall of opposition
which the chief had built up against all his efforts to
touch the hearts and consciences of the people. We did
our utmost to cheer and encourage him, and left him
in apparently good heart.
From Mutanda's we joumed on to Kayanga's, some
three hours away. The chief, we found, had left the
previous day for Luba's. We had therefore the field
to ourselves, and soon gathered round a large audience
of men and women, " who gave heed to the things
which were spoken." It was deeply touching to see
their earnest attention and evident desire to grasp the
truth which was unfolded to them.
And so we travelled on from place to place, wel
comed by some, repulsed by others, until at length
the road divided, one track leading to Luba's and the
other to Iganga, where Wilson and Skeens were at
work. Here I said good-bye to Martin Hall, who
pursued his way to Luba's, whUe I took the road to
the latter place, which I was given to understand was
some six hours away.
After a three hours tramp I halted in the midst of
a banana plantation delightfully refreshing in the cool
ness of its shade, boiled my kettle, and made tea. An
hour's rest foUowed, and then I gave the order to
march. In five minutes we were out of the banana
grove with a European house in full view. " Whose
house is that ? " I inquired. " Simanyi " (I do not

222 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
know), was the answer. Further inquiry, however,
revealed the fact that the house was Wilson's, and
that I had actually, without knowing it, been taking
my refreshment on the Mission premises, and that
whilst I had been engaged in making a fire and boiling
water in the garden, Wilson had been busily employed
in preparing for my entertainment in the house. It
was too ridiculous ! My sense of humour hardly
allowed me to greet seriously my kind host, nor could
they contain their amusement when the facts dawned
upon them.
Iganga was the chief town or viUage of the great
district ruled over for many years by Miro, a clever
Musoga who had been brought up in Uganda. He had
recently taken part in the disastrous expedition to
Kikuyu already alluded to, and had suffered terribly in
health. He had returned home quite broken down, and
after much suffering had passed away. The whole
country was in consequence in mourning.
Miro had never been favourable to our work, but
though not opposing openly he was secretly hostile.
Those who dared to come to us for instruction did so
at the risk of hfe and limb. But as some one has said :
" Men learn from Christ how to find joy in pain, how
to be happy when suffering and dying ; " for as
Menutius Felix, speaking of the martyrs of his time,
could say, " God's soldier is neither forsaken in suffer
ing nor brought to an end by death."
It was a deep joy to meet with those who in such
circumstances as these had dared to confess Christ as
their God and Saviour. On August 5th I laid hands
in Confirmation on twenty-six candidates, three of
whom were women. On the following day (Sunday)
there gathered round the table of the Lord no fewer
than fifty-three communicants, all, as wUl readily be

Chap. 38] BUSOGA 223
believed, deeply in earnest, and y)repared to confess
their faith in Christ, no matter at what cost.
After addressing a meeting of teachers, and visiting
the little churches which were springing up in the
neighbourhood, Wilson and I started off on August 9th
for a tour through North Busoga.
So far our health had been good, and the daily march
not too trying to our strength. But the climate of
Busoga is not an invigorating one. It is often close
and steamy. A veil of haze, telling of close heat, usually
passes over the landscape as the day advances, and all
nature seems to be suffering from limpness and lack of
energy. What wonder if the human frame should
yield to such enervating conditions, and that one
should feel the strain and stress of prolonged physical
exertion. And so it came to pass that two days after
leaving Iganga I went down with a fever, which con
tinued more or less to dog my footsteps for the
remainder of my tour in Busoga. Henceforth the
daily march became a daily toil, and the nightly rest a
nightly tossing to and fro, while dreading the dawning
of the day and yet longing for it.
At Mudambado's and Mpindi's we found a good work
going forward. At the former place no fewer than one
hundred and twenty people came together in the church
to listen to our message, while at the latter some one
hundred and seventy men and women formed our
congregation. On August 17th we reached Tabingwa's,
and here we had a very remarkable experience. The
chief was away, but permission was accorded to us to
hold an open air service for his people. Some three
hundred women belonging to the chief, and called by
the sacred name of " wife," but alas ! knowing nothing
of its high and holy ties, came together to listen to the
words of the "Bazungu" (white men). A singularly

224 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
solemnising and touching sight it was to see them —
their eager attention, their intelligent apprehension of
point after point, as Mr. WUson in their own tongue
(Lusoga), by the catechetical method, taught them the
great fundamental truths of Christianity, was most
eloquent of their deep soul need, and deep heart crav
ing. A prayer was taught them, short and pointed in
its petition, and then a hymn was sung over and over
again, so that many, I doubt not, will never forget it.
And then without a moment's warning came a most
dramatic close to our service. Moved as by a common
impulse, apparently fear, the whole mass rose up, and
Hke hunted deer the women darted hither and thither,
seeking the shelter of the houses round about, and in
twenty seconds not a soul of our audience was left.
At first we thought that some wUd beast had made
its appearance, and looked around for some sign of one
in our rear. But no ! aU this abject fear, this wild
terror, was due not to a creeping leopard, or a crouch
ing lion, but to a man — or shall I say, to a being in
the outward guise of a man. It was the chief. Un
expectedly he had returned, and those poor women,
many of them victims of his lust and cruelty, dreading
his wrath — more terrible to them than the teeth or
claws of a wild beast — had sought to escape identffica-
tion by his searching glance in the dark recesses of
their wretched huts.
I do not know that any incident in the whole of my
missionary experience has ever stirred and touched me
more than the sight of that fleeing mass of womanhood,
and I vowed then and there never to cease my efforts
to bring to an end such a condition of things, so de
grading to woman and so dishonouring to man.
Who were these women, and whence came they ? I
have said that they were the chief's wives. But were

Chap. 38] BUSOGA 225
they so in any true sense of the word ? To assert it
would be to travesty one of the hoHest and most sacred
of terms. These women had been acquired in various
ways. Some had been purchased at the price of so
many head of cattle, sheep, or goats. Some had been
taken by force — stolen — kidnapped. Some had been
exacted as a fine from some under chief who had offended
his overlord. Others, again, were presents to the chief
from those of his people who wished to curry favour
with him. It is safe to say that hardly one of her own
free will was where she was.
And how were they treated ? That sudden flight
from our service told a tale only too eloquent of op
pression, cruelty, and wrong. The stick and the lash
were the chief's principal instruments of correction, but
not infrequently a poor erring woman would suffer
mutilation, or her bosom would be scorched with red-
hot iron ; death, too, was sometimes the penalty for
detected flight. Gradually, however, these wrongs are
being righted, and at the moment of writing it is safe
to say that such traffic in and treatment of women is
largely becoming a thing of the past. One result of
our visit was the beginning of a work which has
exercised a permanent influence in the whole of
Tabingwa's country, and where the Gospel with its
silent influence has failed to restrain the cruel chief
or hard task-master, the strong arm of the British
Government prevaUs, and liberty slowly but surely is
winning its way.
A journey of some four hours brought us to Gabula's,
the centre of a large population with great oppor-
tmiities for Mission work. The evangehst in charge,
named Yusufu, had mistaken the road by which we
were travelling, and so had faded to meet us. How
ever, Gabula (the chief) came forward to greet us, with
II. p

226 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
a large number of his followers and a company of
musicians. The latter were a weird-looking band,
dressed in the most fantastic fashion, decorated with
skins and horns, with bells upon their ankles, knees,
and wrists. Skipping and jumping in front of their
chief, they kept perfect time to the rhythm of their
music in their step and gesticulations.
Our formal greeting over, we proceeded to the chief's
enclosure, where we had a space assigned to us for our
tents, and where, after they had been fetched, we were
able to gather the people together for instruction, as
they might be led to seek it. At first they were
somewhat shy, but on the appearance of Yusufu the
evangelist, with whom were a large number of readers,
their timidity passed away, and within an hour or two
we had so many pleading to be taught that we were
obliged to call our boys to our assistance as teachers.
As the day wore on little groups of five or six men or
lads were to be seen dotted all over the place ; the
reading sheets in their hands told of their employment,
and their bright, happy faces were a sure indication of
the spirit within.
For three days this work went forward, the ranks of
the readers being continually recruited by fresh seekers
after the truth. On Sunday, August 20th, our stay
culminated in the bright and happy services in the
open air ; at which the chief and a number of his under
chiefs, with some two hundred of their followers, were
present. It was evident that in the not distant future
Gabula's would become an important centre of Mission
work and influence. All our arrangements were made
with this in view, and with the ultimate object of
planting there at least two European missionaries for
the organisation and supervision of the whole of the
work in North Busoga.

CuAP. 38] BUSOGA 227
And so our stay came to an end. Our tour was
over and our progress complete. But still a weary
tramp lay before us. Fever was still hanging about
ono, sapping one's strength and damping one's
energies. The journey back to Mengo, however, had
to be done, and so, bracing oneself for the effort, the
start was maile on Monday, August 21st. The moist
heat, (ho blazing sun, tho dismal swamps, the hunger
and tho thirst wero forgotten in the thankful realisa
tion of our hopes with regard to the extension of the
work of tho Church in tho long down-trodden country
of Busoga.. As wo journeyed along on our way first
to Iganga and then to Luba's, we were continually
breaking forth with praise to t^od for so wonderfully
answering our })rayers, and so abundantly blessing
those who in a spirit of solf-sacrifico were labouring so
do\'otoilly for the ovangolisation of these people, who
so manifestly wore lying in the EvU One. This journey
to Luba's was a. triumph of tlie spirit over the flesh,
of mind over matter.
A stay of tliroo ov four days at Luba's, where we
arrived on tho 25th. sowed to vocuporate one's ex-
hauatod onorgios, ajid on the 28th I ombaxked in a
oanoo for Musansa, on tho shores of Kyagwe. Thence
1 made my way to Ngogwe, and so on to Mengo, where
I arri\yod on l<hiday, Soptwubor 1st. after an absence of
some six weeks, in (ho course of which wo had tramped
some four hundred miles, held some fifty services, and
addrossod some thvoo thousand souls. All the great
ohiofs of Busoga had been visited, and the way opened
for tho extension of tho work into tJieir various countries
and districts. But perhaps the most miportant result
of nil was tho conviction pressed and driven home to
tho minds of all tlie chiefs, both great and small, with
whom wo oamo iu contact, tliat henceforth we meant

228 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
to have liberty to preach and teach, and that no man
or woman who chose to be taught Christianity should
suffer for so choosing. A promise had been given by
almost every chief that such liberty should not be
withheld.

CHAPTER XXXIX
nkole
' So shall they fear the name of the Lord from the west and
His glory from the rising of the sun. When the enemy shall
come in Hke a flood the spirit of the Lord shall hft up a standard
againt him.' — Isaiah Ux. 19.
The scene now changes from " utmost East to utmost
West " ; in other words, from Busoga to Nkole.
This latter country had long been in the hearts and
minds, not only of the missionaries, but also of the
older generation of the Baganda Christians — and this
for a very special reason. It had been their refuge
and safety in the old days of trouble and distress.
It will be remembered that in 1888 a revolution had
broken out in Uganda ; Mwanga was driven out, and
succeeded by his half-brother Kiwewa. His reign,
however, was a very short one. Not being sufficiently
amenable to the Mohammedan power which had placed
him upon the throne, the Arabs, who constituted the
dominant factor in a complex situation, determined to
oust him from his position and to put in his place his
more phable half-brother Kalema. The plot had as
its ultimate aim the extermination of Christianity and
the estabhshment of a Mohammedan kingdom. Only
too well (for a time at least) it succeeded. Kiwewa
was driven out and Kalema installed. Walker and
Gordon, made prisoners and forcibly ejected from the
country, sought refuge at Usambiro at the south of
the Lake. But the great mass of the Christians found
their way to Nkole, and there receiving a kindly wel-
229

230 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
come from Ntale, the king, settled down for a time at a
place caUed Kabula. There they awaited the evolution
of events.
It was whilst in this harbour of refuge that Stanley
came upon them in 1889, and gave that remarkable
testimony to the reahty of their faith already referred
to (Chap. V. Book U.). It was from thence that their
leader, Nikodemo Sebwato, who afterwards became one
of the five Deacons of the Church, maintained that
correspondence with the refugees at the south of the
Lake, and with Mwanga, which led ultimately to the
latter's restoration, the complete defeat of the Moham
medans, the extermination of the Arabs, and the re-
estabhshment of Christianity.
For this kindly help and timely shelter afforded to
them in their distress the Baganda Christians had
always entertained a feeling of gratitude, and more
than once had raised the question in the Church CouncU
as to whether something could not be done for the
evangelisation of Nkole. But the difficulties in the way
seemed to be insuperable. Old Ntale had a strong
prejudice against Europeans, and refused to see them
or even to admit them into his country. At length he
went the way of aU flesh, and was succeeded by his
nephew Kahaya, a son of his brother Gumira. This
brother had the misfortune in earher days to lose an
eye — ^hence his inabUity to succeed to the throne.
" The King must be without blemish " — so ran the un
written law of Nkole, and thus Kahaya assumed the
vacant chieftainship.
Now was the opportunity to commence the Chris-
tianisation of Nkole — so at least thought Apolo Kagwa,
the Katikiro (this was in 1898), and at once apphed to
the Church CouncU for permission to send two native
evangelists. This was accorded, and earnest-minded

Chap. 39] NKOLE 231
men made their way to the old refuge of their people.
Kahaya received them kindly, but the " power behind
the throne " was too strong for them ; the old heathen
party, represented by medicine men of the country, put
every obstacle in the way of their preaching and teach
ing, with the result that in a few months' time they
returned to Uganda and told the story of their failure.
Then followed a period during which nothing further
was done. At length another great chief, the Mugema,^
came forward and craved permission of the Church
Council for two of his own followers to go to Nkole.
" They are men of zeal, of courage, and of much sense ;
may they go ? " " Yes ! " was the answer. On this
occasion, however, they did not go alone. Mr. Clayton,
who was working in the neighbouring country of Koki,
had long had his eyes fixed upon Nkole, at once em
braced the opportunity of seeing for himself what pros
pects there were for the planting of the Cross, and
arranged to accompany the two Baganda evangelists.
Kahaya received the party kindly if not cordially, and
at once acceded to Clayton's request for permission to
preach and teach. As for himself, he declared that he
would watch the experiment with a " candid mind,"
and that if nothing happened — that is, if those who
came under instruction didi not die or were not smitten
with some foul disease — possibly he and his princes
and chiefs would also be taught. But they must wait.
With this Clayton was obliged to rest content, and
returned to his work in Koki, leaving the evangelists
behind him.
Once again the " power behind the throne " asserted
> Tlic Mugomn has charge of the tombs of tho king.'), and is so great a
chief that he cannot live on the same hill as the king. He must have a
hill to hini.solf, and a stream must run between his hill and the king's.
Moreover, he has thu right to plead standing before the king. Every other
chief must plead f>n his knees.

232 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
itself, and one by one the lads who were under instruc
tion feU away, untU at length the evangelists, finding
their occupation gone, left the country, and making
their appearance one morning in May 1899 at the
Church CouncU at Mengo, told the story of their failure.
Later in the year Zakaria Kizito, one of the Regents
and a member of our Church CouncU, paid Kahaya a
visit. The result was, doubtless, a deepening of the
impression made by Clayton and the evangehsts whose
apparent faUure has already been recorded.
Some months passed by, and the time came for me
to pay a long-promised visit to Toro. I determined to
travel by way of Nkole and see for myself how the
" land lay," and if possible to effect an entrance.
The completion of my visit to Busoga, as told in the
last chapter, afforded the desired opportunity, and as
Dr. A. R. Cook was anxious for a medical itineration, I
invited him to accompany me.
Before telhng the story of our journey, it wUl per
haps be weU to give a brief account of the country in
which our hopes were so largely centred at this time.
Nkole Hes to the south-west of Uganda, and is
bounded on the north by the kingdom of Toro and
the province of Bwekula, on the west by the Albert
Edward Lake, on the east by the province of Budu
and the kingdom of Koki, and on the south by German
East Africa. The general elevation of the country is
from five to six thousand feet above sea-level. In parts
it is mountainous, but its chief physical characteristic is
that of low roUing hUls, which afford exceUent pasture
for the great herds of cattle possessed by the king and
chiefs. The population of Nkole is roughly estimated at some
400,000 souls, spread over an area of something Hke
8000 square mUes. This popxUation consists mainly of

Chap. 39] NKOLE 233
two races — the ruling class, the Bahima, and the servile
class, the Bairu. The former, the great cattle-keepers
of Central Africa, are the aristocracy of Nkole. Tall,
Hght-coloured, with comparatively intellectual features,
they remind one in their cast of countenance of the
ancient Egyptians. Here is a man the very image,
you would say, of a Rameses II. as his likeness has
come down to us. Here is another who speaks in
every feature of his countenance of high descent from
a ruhng caste. In Toro, Bunyoro, and Uganda, and
indeed in all Central Africa, these people are foimd,
aU having the same characteristics as the Banyankole —
all herdsmen, and all observing practicaUy the same
manners and customs. Their women are to a large
extent secluded, and Hve a hfe in which physical
exertion finds the smallest possible place. The con
sequence is (as their diet is a milk one) that they are
often of enormous size — almost unable to move from
obesity. The Bairu, as the servile class is called, are culti
vators of the soil, and are no doubt the original in
habitants of the land. They are poorly clad, mostly
in skins or in a very rough kind of bark cloth, and
their lot is a hard one — hewers of wood and drawers
of water for their Bahima masters. They have the
usual negroid cast of countenance, and neither their
physical nor intellectual capacity is of a high type.
They Hve in wretchedly poor huts of the beehive
shape, and their food is mainly a grain called " bulo "
and sweet potatoes. Bananas are to a smaU extent
cultivated, but generaUy for the purpose of beer-
making. The language of the Banyankole is, broadly speaking,
Lunyoro, a Bantu tongue, but differing from the dia
lects spoken in Toro and Bunyoro in several important

234 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
particulars. It is a very widely spoken language —
much more widely spoken, indeed, than Luganda. It
is the language of the Baziba, the Baruanda, and
also the people of Karagwe. It extends as far south
as Lake Tanganyika, if not further, and as far north as
the Victoria NUe.
Such, very roughly and broadly, is a sketch of the
country and people of Nkole — the goal of many hopes,
and the subject of much prayer. And thitherward
Dr. Cook and I journeyed during the latter part of
November and the beginning of December 1899.
Our way lay through Budu, a division of the country
almost entirely under Roman Cathohc influence. After
the defeat of the Bafransa in the war of 1892, Budu
had been assigned to them as a sphere of political (not
rehgious) influence. The French pohtical party being
co-extensive with the Roman Cathohc rehgion party,
Budu naturally became a sphere of rehgious as well as
political influence. AU the chiefs appointed from time
to time were without exception Roman Cathohcs —
appointed because they were Roman Cathohcs — no
other, in fact, would have been tolerated.
The work of the Anghcan Church in these circum
stances was carried on with the greatest possible diffi
culty. It was almost impossible to obtain a piece of
land on which to build a church or school ; and every
sort of pressure was brought to bear upon the peasantry
to prevent them from coming under our influence and
instruction. But in spite of all this good progress had
been made, and a considerable number of heathen
were under instruction with a view to baptism at the
time of which I am writing.
The scenery of Budu is not unhke that of the Sese
Islands, from which it is separated only by a narrow
stretch of the Victoria Nyanza, which becomes narrower

Chap. 39] NKOLE 235
stUl at its northern extremity. The geology of
Sese and Budu seems to be almost identical. The
rocks, the soil, the swamps, the vegetation and the
fruits, all alike tell the tale of a oneness in geological
formation. After crossing the Katonga river you leave behind
you, to your great delight, the tall elephant grass
which in the greater part of Uganda hides the landscape
from your view, and which is such a marked char
acteristic of the country, and find yourself walking
in footpaths winding hither and thither in the midst
of short fresh grass. You are reminded of Enghsh
pastures, but at the same time you realise that the
shortness of the grass is due to poverty of soil, and
that there is a rocky bed not far below the surface.
But you travel onward, rejoicing in the fresh air, which
has replaced the heated atmosphere of the long grass
area, and gladdened too by the glories of the land
scape, no longer hidden, but spread out before you in
the ever-varying beauty of sunshine and shade, hill
and dale, river and lake.
Thus was it with us (Dr. Cook and I) as we
made our way towards Koki, the country lying
between us and our goal — Nkole. We could, as
Wordsworth says,
' With an eye of leisure, look on all
That we beheld, and lend the listening sense
To every grateful source of earth and air.
Pausing at wiU.'
Yes ! and as we paused from time to time it was
with uplifted hearts, as well as with gladdened souls,
that we looked around and silently suffered the irre
sistible forces of the beauties of " earth and air " to
impress themselves upon our inmost being.
And so we journeyed onward ; Dr. Cook at every

236 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
camping place doing his utmost for the relief of the
sick and suffering ; and as the fame of his skill and
kindness {ekisa, they called it) preceded us, and spread
far and wide through the country, large numbers came
together for treatment.
Striking our camp on November 22nd at Kyampagi,
our last resting-place in Budu, we commenced to chmb
the hills of Koki on our way to Rakai, where Clayton
and Martin Hall were awaiting us some four hours
away. It was a warm welcome which the Koki Christians
gave us as we drew near to our destination. Down
the hills they came, rushing like a torrent at headlong
speed, as they heard of our approach. " Tusanyuse !
tusanyuse ! " (We rejoice ! we rejoice !) ; " Mwebale
okuja " (Thank you for coming), was the greeting which
met us at every turn of the road. Zabuloni Kiride and
Ibulaimu Asani, two of our Baganda teachers, headed
bands of young men who were under their instruction,
and who in their enthusiastic welcome could hardly
refrain from taking us in their arms. Clayton and
Martin Hall brought up the rear, accompanied by the
representative of the king, Kamswaga.
It was a busy time which we spent in Koki, inter
rupted, however, in my case by an attack of fever
which laid me aside for two or three days.
Considering that only six months previously I had
confirmed fifty-two men and women, the fifty-seven
candidates presented to me on this occasion were cer
tainly an indication of the marked progress of the work
which was visible on every hand.
We discussed with Clayton our visit to Nkole, and,
to our great delight, heard that two earnest Christian
men named Andereya and Filipo were anxious to
accompany us, and were prepared as missionaries to

Chap. 39] NKOLE 237
give themselves to the work of teaching the Banyankole
the truths of Christianity.
With these men in our company, and a young lad — a
native of Nkole, who had been a slave in Koki for some
years, but who had been freed by his Christian master,
and who was himself a Christian, and anxious to return
to his own country, if haply he might find his parents
yet alive — we started on Tuesday, November 28th, for
Lulembo, the capital of Nkole.
The impression made upon us by the scenery through
which we passed is best conveyed by quotations from
a description which I was able to set down in writing
at the time : —
" Shortly after leaving Kamswaga's our journey
was one of almost continuous hill-climbing. Then we
found ourselves wending our way through a beautiful
valley. Then there would be a spell of most delightful
journeying on the hill-tops, the path taking us from
crest to crest, but now and again dipping down into
basins like hollows."
And later : — " Away to our left as we journeyed
were vast stretches of country of the most varied
character. Below us was a deep valley, clad at the
bottom with masses of great forest trees. There, in
the middle distance, were hill ranges in alternate shade
and sunshine, reveahng in clearest detail aU their
wonderful beauty; and in the far distance, forty or
fifty miles away, were the mountains of Karagwe and
the rocky escarpment of the Kiziba country in German
territory. To our right the view, although not so ex
tensive perhaps, was equally beautiful. Kamswaga's
Lake was seen in the far distance ghttering like bur
nished silver in the early morning sunshine, whilst
through the vaUey, some one thousand feet below us,
the river Mazinga wound its tortuous course Hke the

238 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
twistings and turnings of a great snake, reminding one
of Wordsworth's Hnes when he says : —
' A sUvery current flows
With uncontrolled meanderings.' "
On the eve of St. Andrew's Day we found ourselves
one day's march from Lulembo. A heavy storm of
rain had just swept over the country, and as the thunder
rolled away in the distance, the late afternoon sun
shone forth bright and clear. We remembered that
before leaving Uganda arrangements had been made
for intercessory prayer on behalf of foreign missions
at no fewer than two hundred centres. It had also
been arranged that special prayer shotUd be offered on
behalf of this third attempt to enter Nkole.
Calhng our Christian porters and boys together, we
spent the last half -hour of the day in joining with our
feUow Christians throughout Uganda and the world
in praying for the missionary work of the Church of
Christ. We speciaUy asked God's blessing on our
entrance into Lulembo, and prayed that He would
greatly prosper our undertaking, and defeat the oppo
sition which we felt sure we should encounter from the
old medicine men of the country. It wUl be seen later
how wonderfully this prayer was answered.
So far we had seen Httle or nothing of the people of
the country. But as we drew near to the capital the
lowing of cattle on the hiUs on the right hand and on
the left told of the presence of kraals in consider
able numbers. Sometimes we came upon a herdsman
standing in the characteristic attitude of the man on
guard — ^leaning on his spear, with one foot resting on
the knee-joint of the leg on which he was standing.
OccasionaUy we saw three or four spear-armed men
hurriedly driving off their cattle as though in fear.

u^

!.>- js w^'i<.¦.'^^ ^a.'*

^r^-^^^

LAKE MAZINGA, NKOLE

Chap. 39] NKOLE 239
But more frequently it was the skyline which told the
tale of watching men and numerous herds.
Our entrance into Lulembo was an event which will
linger long in our memories. That the country was
stirred we could see. Groups of natives gazed upon
us curiously; others were seen making their way in
various directions, as though bound on some definite
errand. Messengers were running hither and thither ;
the glint of spears in the glowing sunlight flashed jewel
like against and in contrast with the dark-blue shadows
of the fleecy clouds with which the sky was flecked.
We had sent forward our head-man to salute Kahaya
the king, and met him half-an-hour from the capital,
coming back with the king's messengers, bearing his
greetings in return. He told us we were welcome, and
would be lodged with his chief steward, or Katikiro.
For this, when we saw later what the king's quarters
were like, we were profoundly thankful. Mbaguta the
Katikiro is a " Progressive," and his house and its
surroundings were after the Uganda pattern. The
king's enclosure was simply a huge cattle kraal, with
filth within and without. Our tents were soon pitched,
and at three o'clock a message came from Kahaya to
say that he was about to visit us.
He came with a huge following of all sorts and con
ditions of men : some clad, others nude or very nearly
so ; some chiefs, other, peasants ; some armed — indeed,
most of them with a weapon of some sort ; some of
the servUe class, the Bairu, but most of the dominant
race ; all smeared with rancid butter, which tainted
the air for some distance around.
It was, indeed, a weird and striking scene which we
gazed upon when king, chiefs, and retainers had all
taken their seats. Kahaya was a great, overgrown lad
of some eighteen years of age, about six feet two inches

240 UGANDA AND EAST .\FEICA [Book V.
in height, and probably weighing eighteen or nineteen
stone. He was dressed in semi-European fashion.
Some tiader or other had doubtless purchased cattle
with the cast-off clothing of some corpxUent European.
]\lbaguta the Katikiro, a keen, inteUigent-lookin g man
of some forty years of age, was dressed in Uganda
fashion, with " kanzu " and a white cloth thrown over
his shoulders. Sitting on their haunches, twenty deep,
were several hundred spearmen, their spears bemg
stuck in the groimd at their side. At the back of this
strange group stood the weirdest-looking and most
fantasticaUy decorated human beings that it has ever
been my lot to look upon. They were the medicine
men or wizards of the country, " the power behind the
throne," the force with which we reaUy had to do.
Their head-gear was mainly of twisted twine decorated
with feathers sticking up,
' Like quills upon a fretful porcupine.'
Tiny bells on arms and legs jingled at every move
ment. Painted faces and greased bodies completed their
" get up."
Sitting down in front of this strange group, Dr. Cook
and I commenced our conference with the king and his
counseUors. We told them why we had come : that
we were the servants of the Most High ; that we had a
message to dehver to the king as weU as to his people ;
that this message had to do both with this Hfe and the
next ; that those who received it would become better
men and better women — better husbands and wives,
better parents and chUdren. Nor was this aU ; our
message had in it not only " the promise of this Hfe,
but that which is to come." We showed them the
Scriptures in Luganda, and told them how they re
vealed Christ as our God and Saviour — the Saviour

Chap. 39] NKOLE 241
not only from the penalty but also the power of sin.
We told them that death is not the end of all things,
but that there is a Hfe beyond the grave. We spoke
of the resurrection, and of the many mansions in the
Father's house, and so on.
We then reminded them of what Christianity had
done for the Baganda, for the Batoro and the Banyoro
— facts within their own knowledge — and expressed our
behef that what God had done for these people He was
able and willing to do for the king and people of Nkole.
We expressed our sorrow that we were unable to
stay ourselves and teach them the way of salvation,
but we hoped before long to send European missionaries
to hve amongst them. In the meanwhUe we had
brought with us two earnest Christian men from the
neighbouring country of Koki — ^Andereya and Fihpo.
These men were wiUing to stay behind and teach them
aU they knew of Jesus Christ and His great redeeming
love. Were they wUling to receive them and to Hsten
to their instruction 1 This was the question with
which we closed our address.
There was no immediate response made. But a
good deal of whispering went on for some Httle time,
and then through Mbaguta the king made his reply.
He and his people were glad to see us, he said ; they
quite agreed that what we had told them was the
truth; they had heard of what Christian missionaries
had done in Uganda, and they themselves woiUd much
Hke to be taught, but — there was a great difficiUty in the
way of their receiving the two evangehsts whom we had
brought with us. There was hunger in the land, and
it was as much as they could do to feed their own people.
It would be better, the king declared, to wait tiU food
was abundant. Then our evangehsts might come, and
the European missionaries as well, and so on.
II Q

242 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
But Andereya and Filipo were not to be denied, and
they proceeded at once to argue the point. " Oh,"
said the former, " we don't mind a Httle hunger ; we
often in Koki have little to eat. Give us a few bananas
every day and we shall be satisfied." " But there
aren't any," said the king. " Well, then," replied
Andereya, " give us a few potatoes every day and we
will ask for nothing more." " The potatoes came to
an end long ago," replied the king. " WeU, then,"
rejoined Andereya, " you have got plenty of mUk ; give
us a drink of milk every morning, and another at night,
and we will be content." The king, however, inti
mated that he was not sure they could even do that.
This was more than I could Hsten to in silence, and
therefore broke in. " What," I said, " you, the King of
Nkole, not able to give two strangers a drink of mUk
in the morning and another at night. Why, in Uganda
they say that the King of Nkole has 20,000 head of
cattle, and if I go back and teU them that the king is
unable to give milk to two guests, they wiU surely say
that it was a false report we heard of the country —
Kahaya the king is only a very little chief after all."
This seemed at once to make a deep impression, and
again a whispered conference took place, after which
the king answered he would consider the matter and
let us know later what could be done. And so the
assembly dispersed, to meet again on the morrow.
The morrow came, and with it at nine o'clock the
king and his counseUors, the old wizards, as well as
the chiefs and their followers. The crisis had come,
and the question as to whether the Gospel was to find
entrance into Nkole was to be decided that day. For
three hours the discussion was continued, one objec
tion after another being met — often indeed, to be mis
understood, and a fresh discussion to be entered upon.

Chap. 39] NKOLE 243
I do not know whether in the whole course of my
missionary experience I have ever had such a sense
of spiritual conflict upon me as on that never-to-be-
forgotten day. It seemed as though Satan and all his
host were set in battle array against us. And I cannot
but beheve that such was really the case, and that the
forces of light and darkness were in actual conflict.
It was intensely interesting to notice how acutely
every objection to our occupation of the country as
teachers of a new religion was met either by Andereya
or Filipo. It was parry and thrust, and thrust and
parry. At length the victory was won and an agree
ment come to. The two evangelists were to remain,
and be free to teach and preach as they might choose.
The king would give a piece of land on which to build
a church, and we on our part agreed to send European
missionaries at the earhest possible opportunity.
Thus our conference came to an end and we were
free to attend to other matters. Dr. Cook, of course,
had his hands full in attending to numerous sick ones
who sought his help. Among others brought to him
was a man with a huge tumour upon his shoulder.
The king had heard of a similar tumour being removed
by the doctor in Koki, the patient having been operated
upon whilst under chloroform. He was very anxious
to see a similar operation. Was it possible, he asked,
for the doctor to put this man to sleep and remove the
tumour ? Yes, was the answer, it can be done quite
easily. The king was delighted. The hour was fixed
for the operation; the instruments, operating table,
antiseptics, &c. — in fact, everything was in order ; the
king and a great crowd of followers came to see the
wonder ; the doctor was ready ; but alas ! the patient
was nowhere to be found. It was Hke the play of
Hamlet with the Prince of Denmark left out. The

244 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
principal character in the drama was missing. The king
sent messengers hither and thither in search of him.
Whilst waiting I happened to look across the valley,
and there on the opposite hillside I saw the man for
whom we were waiting, running at top speed with
fifty men at his heels. He turned and twisted in his
course like a hare with hounds on his track. It was
all in vain. In a few minutes he was caught and
brought in in triumph. " Now," said the king to the
doctor, " let us see him put to sleep." " No," was the
answer ; " I can only operate with the consent of the
patient, and it is quite evident to me that this man
does not wish to be operated upon." And so, to the
king's intense disgust and disappointment, the whole
thing came to an end.
I may add, however, that on visiting Nkole some
four years later in company with Dr. J. H. Cook, the
same man came and earnestly besought the doctor to
have pity on him and remove the tumour. This was
done under chloroform before the wondering eyes of
the king and chiefs. The man, to his friends' great
delight, made a rapid and complete recovery.
Another incident of our visit even happier in its
ending was the discovery of his father by the little
slave boy who had travelled with us from Koki. On
the occasion of the king and his followers coming to see
us, he had recognised his father in the person of the
fourth greatest chief in the country, and made himself
known to him. There was no great outward demon
stration of joy on either side, but the lad expressed to
me his deep satisfaction at being " at home."
Home life in Africa, as we Enghsh folk understand it,
there is none apart from Christianity. But as there
is without doubt deep down in every human heart
a feehng that where father and mother are, there is

Chap. 39] NKOLE 245
home, so even in darkest Africa one finds, even in
densest minds, an instinctive chnging to and turning
towards the place of upbringing — a place more loved
than others — a place of refuge and of rest. And so
it was that this little Nkole slave boy in his heart of
hearts was glad to be " at home."
And so the time came for us to pursue our onward
journey to Toro. How gladly would we have stayed,
in order to deepen the impression already made upon
those with whom we had come most in contact ! But
it was impossible ; we were expected in Toro, and
must hurry on our way thither. However, we com
forted ourselves with the thought of the devotion and
earnestness of the two evangehsts whom we were
leaving behind, and the fact that the Httle slave boy,
the son of one of the great chiefs of the country, was
already a Christian. It was not a great force with
which to commence the evangehsation of a nation,
but we remembered that not infrequently a Httle fire
kindles a great matter, and that it is written, " Not
by power nor by might but by my Spirit, saith the
Lord ! "
On December 4th we started on our onward journey.
Our way lay through an almost unknown country.
The king, however, had kindly provided us with guides ;
but even they at times were at fault, and to recover
the lost track we were obhged occasionally to enhst
the services of men from viUages through wliich we
passed. The weather was all that could be desired,
the air fresh and invigorating, but the scenery was
monotonous and uninteresting, a grey haze obscuring
its more interesting features, the rocks and mountains
of the country.
As we drew near to Ibanda, which has since gained
an evU repute through the murder of Sub-Commissionei;

246 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
Gait, an incident happened which might well have
brought disaster upon us. It was in this wise. Having
halted hard by a village for rest and refreshment, we
were surprised on continuing our journey to see a
woman hastening towards us as though with some
strong purpose in view. Quickly she made her way
through the ripening corn, and faihng down on her
knees by the wayside, besought our help. She was,
she said, a Musoga, but three or four years ago had
been kidnapped by some Mohammedan traders and sold
as a slave to a man Hving in the village which we had
just left. He, she added, was in the habit of beating
her and otherwise Ul-treating her. Might she travel
under our protection back to Uganda, and thus be
enabled to make her way to her own people 1 We
consented to take charge of her, and she joined the
rear of our caravan.
Not long after a man with a spear on his shoulder
came running to meet us. As he came abreast of me
he halted. " That woman," he said, " is my slave. I
paid so many cows for her. I want her back again.
Give her to me." We told him that we were bound
for Ibanda, and if he came on with us we would hear
what he had to say there. To this he agreed, and
marched on in front. I noticed, however, that when
ever he came to a village he always went into it, and
that in coming out again he was always followed by
three or four men with spears. Eventually I found
that we were being followed by an armed force of
some thirty or forty men. Evidently they meant
business. On reaching Ibanda, Dr. Cook and I sat down in the
shade of wide-spreading trees and awaited the evolution
of events. Not long were we kept in suspense. Within
half-an-hour there issued from the gate of the village a,

Chap. 39] NKOLE 247
crowd of armed men, in the centre of which was our
friend the slave-owner. Sticking their spears in the
ground, they squatted in a semicircle in front of us,
and the claimant commenced with a torrent of words
to plead his case. Of course he spoke in Lunyoro,
and not in Luganda. We were therefore only able
to catch the drift of his remarks, and at the first
pause stopped him and suggested that it would be
better to wait untU our herdsmen arrived, who knew
both languages, and would therefore act as inter
preter. Whilst waiting, the chief of Ibanda, a woman, a
sister of old Ntale the king, came out with a large re
tinue to greet us. We told her of our errand to Nkole,
and expressed the hope that she and her people, Hke
Kahaya and his people, would consent to be taught.
She rephed very cautiously that she would wait to
hear what happened to Lulembo, the capital, and that
if Kahaya gave heed to the instruction of our evan
gehsts, so would she.
I then mentioned to her the case of the slave woman,
and told her that it was her duty to send her and her
master to the Enghsh officer in charge of the district,
who would inquire into the case and settle it. She
rephed that the parties did not belong to her chief
tainship, and she would have nothing to do with the
matter. Much disappointed, but yet feehng determined not
to give up the wretched woman to her master, I con
sulted with Dr. Cook as to our next move. HappUy,
at this moment one of our guides broke in with the
information that the chief of the district concerned
was actually in the vUlage of Ibanda. A messenger
soon brought him. I then told him that it was his
duty to take the matter in hand and send the woman

248 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
and her master to the British Resident, to whom I
promised to write a letter explaining the circumstances.
To my great delight, he readily agreed to this proposal,
as did also the woman and her master.
Thus a very difficult position, and possible disaster,
was avoided. The woman and her master, followed
by the chief and the threatening band of spearmen,
marched off apparently satisfied. About three weeks
later I received a letter from the Resident, stating
that the parties had duly appeared before him, and
that he had freed the woman and sent her back
to her own country, Busoga. "All's weU that ends
weU." After leaving Ibanda we entered upon a most in
teresting part of the road. Nkole was left behind,
and Kitakwenda, a county of Toro, was entered.
Ruwenzori, with its snow-clad peaks, came into view,
and all the varied scenery of that volcanic region was
spread out before us in all its wonderful beauty. We
were now to come in contact with the outlying work
of the Church in Toro. Ecob, who was engaged in an
itineration through Kitakwenda, we found encamped
at Ntara, where both Apolo Kivebulaya and Sedulaka
were at work. These two earnest workers, hearing of
our approach, came out to meet us, with a number of
readers whom they had gathered round them. It was
a great joy to see them, and also to see how the Church
in Toro was penetrating into the remoter parts of the
country. We were stiU some four days' journey from Kabarole,
the capital of Toro, and a good deal of hard marching
stiU lay before us. Roads there were none. Foot
paths, rough and rugged, were the only means of pene
trating the tall elephant grass with which the whole
face of the landscape was covered. The volcanic

ALBERT EDWARD NVANZA, RUWENZORI IN THE DISTANCE

Chap. 39] NKOLE 249
nature of the country made travelhng very difficult.
At one moment you were chmbing with infinite toil
a steep hillside ; the next you were almost tumbhng
down a deep decHvity, at the bottom of which was a
rocky river-bed, with a rushing stream which nearly
carried you off your feet. And then up you went again
into an almost impenetrable thicket of scrub and coarse
herbage, and so on, with almost unceasing toil, until
at length, as we drew near to the capital, the footpath
entered npon a fairly wide and weU-kept road.
Our welcome in Toro was a very warm one indeed.
The king, with the Katikiro, and a large number of
their followers, came out a long distance to meet us.
Dr. Cook was greeted with very special expressions of
joy. The fame of his skiU in surgical and medical
science had preceded us, and we foimd many sick and
suffering ones looking forward to his arrival with the
keenest expectation of rehef.
Roscoe, who had been in charge of the work in Toro,
had been invahded to Mengo. Maddox we found hard
at work, and everything prospering greatly.
In view of my coming, the teachers from the various
out-stations had been called in, and I was able to
speak to them about their work. Happily this en
gagement was kept, and also the confirmation held on
December 22nd, before fever laid me aside for the
remainder of my visit.
On December 27th I was sufficiently recovered to
make a start for Mengo. The weather was fine, and
the porters anxious to get back to their homes. The
result was that such good progress was made that a
fortnight, including a visit to Mitiana, saw us once
more back at our work in Mengo, after an absence of
exactly two months.
It wiU be a fitting conclusion to this chapter if I

250 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book V.
anticipate events and tell briefly the story of the sequel
to our visit to Nkole and this last effort made for its
evangehsation. Anxiously we waited for tidings of the two evangelists,
Andereya and Fihpo, whom we had left behind in
Nkole. After some weeks letters came telhng how
one and another had placed himself under instruction.
Then later came the news that Mbaguta was being
taught. Then that the king himself had yielded and
joined those who were seeking the truth. Months
passed by, and we heard from Clayton of the building
of a church and the gathering of an increasingly large
congregation. And then came glorious news which
fiUed our hearts with thankfulness and praise. It
seems that on a certain day the king, Mbaguta, and
several chiefs came to Andereya and said : " Now, after
all that you have taught us of Jesus Christ and His
salvation, we want to tell you that we do not beheve
in these charms of ours any longer. Here they are ;
take them and destroy them if you will." " No," said
the evangelists ; " if we take them your people will say
that we are using them for our own benefit. If you
do not beheve in them, destroy them before your
people. Let them see you do it." Whereupon the
king ordered a fire to be made in front of his enclosure,
and there in the broad Hght of the day, and in the face
of aU his people, he cast his precious charms into the
fire and destroyed them. Then the Prime Minister
and others did the same. All day long that fire was
kept burning, and all day long the people came and
cast their charms into it.
Since then the king and his Prime Minister and a
large number of others have been baptized, and in
October 1903, when I was permitted to revisit Nkole,
I laid hands in confirmation on the kmg and Mbaguta

Chap. 39] NKOLE 251
and some eighty of that old-time savage horde, in the
presence of some seven hundred worshippers gathered
in a church buUt by the native Christians themselves.
So mightUy does the Word of God grow and prevaU.
The further progress of this God-blessed work in Nkole
wiU be told in a later chapter.

BOOK VI
TRANSITION— EXPANSION— CONSOLIDATION

CHAPTER XL
A NEW CENTURY AND A NEW EEA
' Forgetting those things which are behind, and reaching forth
unto those things that are before.'— Phil. iii. 13.
The dawning of a new century was destined in the
providence of God to be the dawning of a new era for
Uganda. Great Britain had now been responsible for the
administration of Uganda for very nearly seven years,
and the Foreign Office had come to the conclusion that
certain changes were necessary, both in the department
of government and in the relations between Great
Britain and the kingdom of Uganda. Sir Gerald
Portal's treaty of 1893 was regarded more or less as
an antiquated document which needed to be brought
up to date. The questions of finance and land tenure
must, it was felt, be dealt with as soon as possible.
The railway was advancing towards the Lake with
rapid strides. With its completion would come into
being forces and influences which woiUd test and try
not merely the moral stamina of the Baganda — that
was more a matter for the Mission — but the powers
of administration of the best ordered Government.
How, and by whom, was this work of revision and
reorganisation to be taken in hand ? The British

254 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
Government looked about them and selected for it a
man of wide experience of tropical Africa and of un
doubted capacity, Sir H. H. Johnston, a born philo
logist and a trained artist. Upon him was conferred
the title of Special Commissioner, and very large and
exceptional powers were entrusted to him.
On my arrival in Mengo from my journey through
Nkole and Toro, as told in the preceding chapters, I
found that Sir Harry Johnston had already arrived ;
and, more than that, had already produced his plans
for dealing with the two great questions of finance
and land tenure. These proposals, so far as they
affected the Baganda, had stirred the country from
one end to the other. Chiefs and people were alike
affected by them. These proposals were, roughly, the
introduction of a hut and gun tax, and a division of
the land between H.M. Government and the Baganda.
The latter, he proposed, should be secured in the pos
session of all the cultivated land of the country, whilst
the unoccupied and uncultivated land should be vested
in H.M. Government, and dealt with in the interests
of the Protectorate as a whole.
To these proposals, so far as the land was concerned,
the Baganda offered a most uncompromising opposi
tion, and on my arrival in Mengo poured into my ears
the tale of their woes and apprehensions. They were
ruined, they declared ; their country was being taken
from them ; and their glory had departed. " Non
sense," I exclaimed ; " I am quite sure the Government
have no intention of doing you any injustice. All that
you need do is to tell Sir Harry exactly where you think
his proposals press hardly upon you, and he will, I am
sure, do everything in his power to meet your wishes."
Fortunately Sir Harry Johnston was far too large-
minded a man to take exception to the discussion of

A CURIOUS ROCK IN THE BUKEDI COUNTRY

Chap. 40] A NEW ERA 255
these matters by the Mission. Indeed, it was in
obedience to his own expressed wish that the chiefs
sought our counsel. " Go and consult the missionaries,"
said Sir Harry ; " they are your best friends." And so
it came about that immediately on my arrival in Mengo
on January 8, 1900, 1 found myself, as in 1893 on the
arrival of Sir Gerald Portal, involved in the discussion
of political questions of the most far-reaching character.
There was a good deal in Sir H. Johnston's proposals
(to my mind) to recommend them, and I frankly told
the chiefs so. Much to their surprise, I pointed out the
unsatisfactory nature of the then existing state of things
with regard to the land. I reminded them that in theory
all the land of the country with thei exception of the
" Butaka " — i.e. the burying-place of each family, and
therefore its inheritance — belonged to the king, and
that he had power to turn a chief out of office and out
of his land at a moment's notice. No land, I pointed
out, could be properly developed with such a tenure.
What was needed was fixity of tenure, which the British
Government were prepared to give. But, it was
objected, " we are only to have the cultivated land, and
that without a certain amount of ' nsiko ' (uncultivated
land) is useless to us."
This, I eventually found, was the whole crux of the
question. The system of land tiUage practised in
Uganda makes it necessary that after a certain number
of years the land should be allowed to he fallow for
a while. Hence the necessity of having a certain
amount of " nsiko " in reserve, on which to form new
plantations whilst the exhausted land is recovering
itself. I well remember how in the Church CouncU, on a
certain occasion, it was related that the king (Mwanga)
was willing to give a large garden to the Church. The

256 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
CouncU, however, inquired how much " nsiko " would
go with it. The answer was none. " Then it is use
less," was the reply, and the proffered gift was dechned
with thanks.
This incident will give some idea how essential the
chiefs felt it to be that there should be secured to them
not merely aU the cultivated land but a considerable
area of "nsiko" or uncultivated land. On learnmg
what was the chief difficulty in the way of a settlement,
I sought an interview with Sir H. Johnston at Entebbe
and laid the case before him. He saw the point, and
at once set himself to solve the problem. Many con
ferences took place between Sir Harry and the chiefs,
and Mr. F. J. Jackson, the deputy commissioner on Sir
Harry's behalf.
I notice in my diary the following significant entries.
January 13th, "Mr. Jackson gave the chiefs to-day the
Commissioner's explanation of his proposals " ; and
again, January 16th, " The chiefs' letter to Mr. Jackson
was brought to me, making inquiries as to the effect
of the new proposals " ; and January 17th, " The Com
missioner's proposals still under discussion. The chiefs
still dissatisfied."
It was now that Sir Harry brought forward his
solution of the " nsiko " problem. It was broadly this.
The area of Uganda, said Sir Harry, is, roughly speak
ing, 19,600 square miles. The Government will take
9000 square miles of waste or uncultivated land ; 1500
square miles of forest will be reserved for Government
control. To the royal family and chiefs of sazas, or
counties, there wiU be reserved 958 square miles, and
to other chiefs and land occupiers wUl be aUotted 8000
miles. The Baganda, in marking out their lands, may
select cultivated or uncultivated land, or a certain area
of each, as they may choose. The only condition is

Chap, 40] A NEW ERA 257
that the total area marked out does not exceed 8958
square mUes, It was an ingenious proposal, and it
solved the problem. No sooner was it proposed as a
settlement than the question of the day became the
square mile. " What is a * mailo ' ? " was the inquiry
which met you at every turn. Men greeted you in the
road, but no sooner were the greetings over than the in
evitable question was launched, " What is a ' mailo ' ? "
Visitors came to call upon you, but they never left
without asking the same question, " What is a ' mailo '1 "
Nor was an answer an easy matter. The chief
difficulty was to get our Baganda friends to distin
guish between a square mile and a mile square. But
gradually the truth went home, and henceforth the
term " mailo " became incorporated with the language,
and is understood to-day from one end of Uganda to
the other.
The question of the hut tax raised little or no
difficulty. The Baganda had from time immemorial
paid tribute to the king, amounting in 1900 to probably
two rupees per hut. Sir Harry proposed that this
tribute should cease, and in its place a three-rupee
hut tax should be paid to the British Government
as a contribution towards the cost of administration.
Then a three-rupee gun tax was proposed, and accepted
with very Httle difficulty. Other matters, such as
the administration of justice, the constitution of the
Lukiko or National Council, the upkeep of roads,
and the salaries of the Regents and chiefs of counties,
were discussed at considerable length, and finally were
embodied in a treaty, a copy of which reached me on
February 10th.
On the 12th I received a letter from Sir Harry
Johnston, inviting me and Archdeacon Walker to meet
the chiefs at his house at Entebbe for the purpose of
II B

258 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
discussing the terms of the treaty, with a view to its
signature as a final settlement. On the foUowing
day we met at nine o'clock, and with an interval for
luncheon, continued our conference until 5.30 p.m.,
when an agreement was arrived at. The treaty signed
a month later, on March 10th, in fuU Baraza, embodies
that settlement.
Its chief provisions were, roughly, as follows : —
The young king Daudi Cwa was recognised as the
hereditary Kabaka or king of Uganda, and the suc
cession was vested in the family of Mutesa. On the
Kabaka attaining his majority, which would not be
until he was eighteen years of age, an income of £1500
a year would be secured to him. During his minority
£650 a year would be paid to the master of his house
hold, and £400 a year to each of the other chiefs ap
pointed to govern in his name as Regents. Several new
" sazas " or counties were formed, making twenty in
all. The chiefs of these, styled Abamasaza, were to
receive an annual income of £200 a year. The duties
of these Abamasaza were, roughly, the administration
of justice each in his own court and in his own saza,
the assessment and collection of taxes, the upkeep of
the main roads, and " the general supervision of native
affairs." The Lukiko or National Council was constituted as
follows. In addition to the Regents, who were re
spectively to bear the title of Prime Minister, Chief
Justice, and Treasurer, each Owesaza or chief of a
county was to be ex officio a member of the Council.
These chiefs of sazas were to be permitted to appoint
each a representative, who should act in his absence
and speak as well as vote in his name. The chief
and his representative were not, however, to appear in
the Council together. In addition to these ex-offkio

Chap. 40] A NEW ERA 259
members, the Kabaka was empowered to nominate
three " notables " from each county, who should be
members of the Council during his pleasure. The
Kabaka was further to be permitted to appoint to the
Council six other men of consequence in the country.
To this Lukiko or National Council very considerable
powers were entrusted, " The functions of the Council
will be," says Section 12 of the treaty, " to discuss
all matters concerning the native administration of
Uganda, and to forward to the Kabaka resolutions
which may be voted by a majority regarding measures
to be adopted by the said administration." And
further, the Lukiko or a Committee of it was con
stituted a court of appeal, so that any litigant dis
satisfied with the decision of the Owesaza (or chief of
county) might claim a revision of the judgment.
In my opinion this agreement, from the point of view
of the Baganda, was a wise one. It did much and
secured much for them. It gave them fixity of tenure
of their lands. It secured to them a large measure
of self-government. It allowed to them the adminis
tration of justice in their own courts according to
native law. It gave them timber rights, and rights
over the fruits of their forests, and mineral rights in
their lands. It also brought to an end the very im-
satisfactory arrangement, included in Sir Gerald Portal's
treaty of 1893, of two Katikiros, Henceforth there
was to be but one, with the title of Prime Minister,
One other great fact was apparent upon the face of
this document — the treaty of 1900 — and that was that
it rang the death-knell of the feudal system in Uganda.
Whether that would turn out to be a blessing or a
misfortune time alone could tell. Military service was
still to be rendered in case of need at the call of the
king, but labour could only be exacted when the

260 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
penalty of disobedience was an eviction from a tenancy
at will. A landed proprietorship having been created,
such a penalty was no longer possible. Wages and
rent, it was clear, must henceforth find place in the
economic system of Uganda. UntU chief and people
recognised what these things meant, a certain amount
of confusion was inevitable. Years, it was clear, must
elapse before this new order of things could be
thoroughly established. In the meanwhile the out
ward aspect of things in the country would certainly
suffer. Houses and fences would fall into disrepair ;
gardens would be neglected. Little or no cultivation
would be done. Men everywhere would do as little
as possible for the improvement of property until they
knew what their own share was likely to be.
Very wisely Sir Harry Johnston had left the division
of the lands among the claimants in the hands of the
National Council, Had he attempted to deal with
these matters he would have involved himself and
his officers in an endless controversy, which, however
settled, would have given dissatisfaction. Even the
National Council, with all its knowledge of men and
native law and custom, found the task a most difficult
one. For instance, a man settled in the east of Uganda
had his " butaka " or family inheritance in the west.
Naturally he wished his share of land to be in close
proximity to his " butaka." The man in occupation
had to be turned out, and he in his turn sought his
portion of land near his " butaka," which might
possibly be in the north of Uganda. The occupant
of these had to be turned out, and so on. Thus the
game of " general post " went on merrily until the
whole population was in movement. Streams of men,
women, and children going east with all their house
hold goods, cattle, sheep, goats, and fowls, met simUar

Chap, 40] A NEW ERA 261
streams going west. Evicted tenants from the north
were able to greet their friends in a simUar condition
from the south. And so the game was played untU
every one was sorted and settled down in his own place.
It was a curious condition of affairs, and in any other
than native hands must have led to disaster. As it
was, aU that was needed was time for things to right
themselves, and patience in deahng with each diffi
culty as it arose. Thus was a peaceful revolution of a
far-reaching character effected, and the burning ques
tion of the land settled.
So far we have dwelt npon the right of self-govern
ment conceded to the Baganda and the break-up of
the feudal system as the result of the land legislation
initiated by the Special Commissioner. Let us now
briefly glance at one other important measure intro
duced into the treaty of March 10, 1900. I refer to
the hut tax. There are many objections to be urged
against the imposition of a tax of this kind in L'ganda.
Its immediate result, from some points of view, was
without question an evU one. It led almost at once
to overcrowding, to insanitary conditions, and to a
certain amount of immorahty. It tended not only to
a higher death rate, but also to a lower marriage and
ultimately to a lower birth rate. Young men hesi
tated to take upon themselves the responsibihty of
marriage when they knew that the building of a hut
meant what in that day was regarded as a heavy tax.
But although having much of evU in it, it had this
great merit — it stirred to action and electrified into
Hfe the whole nation. Men knew that by a certain
date the requisite rupees must be forthcoming on the
visit of the tax coUector. They set to work imme
diately to raise the needed amounts. Men from the
more distant parts of the country poured into such

262 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
centres of population as Mengo and Entebbe seeking
work, the reward of which would be rupees. Thus
it came about that the element of wages was intro
duced into the life of the Baganda, and another revo
lution — an economic one — was effected.
The economic effects of such an instrument as the
treaty of March 10th were fairly easy to foresee. What
moral results were likely to ensue, beyond these to
which 1 have already referred as connected with the
imposition of the hut tax, was a much more difficult
question to determine. It was clear that feudal ties
would be broken and feudal restraints relaxed. Men
and women, nay even children, would be cast more
and more upon their own resources. How would this
affect them ? Would they rise to a sense of their
responsibilities ? Would freedom from restraint lead
to licence, and licence to lawlessness ? These were
questions which for several years past we had been
carefully considering. We know that changes must
inevitably come in the social life of the people, but in
what way the new era would be inaugurated we had
no conception. The railway, it seemed to us, would
be the most likely means. With it would come a flood
of outside influences which would test and try the
moral stamina of the Baganda. Of this we felt con
vinced. But the railway was still very far from com
pletion. It had not yet begun to climb the Man
escarpment. Five years or more must certainly elapse
before it reached the Lake, and even then it would
take some further time to influence to any appreciable
degree the life of the Baganda.
The sudden break-up of the feudal system in 1900
without doubt took us by surprise, but found us not
altogether unprepared. We had consistently and for
some years adopted the means we felt most likely to be

Chap, 40] A NEW ERA 263
effectual in preparing men and women to resist the
flood of temptation which so-called civilisation would
surely bring with it. It appeared to us that the weU-
taught Christian would be the strong Christian, We
therefore expected from all our candidates for baptism
not merely the ability to read the Scripture in their
own tongue — that was a sine qud no7i — but also an
intelligent knowledge of the books of the Gospel, tested
by thorough examination. Candidates for confirma
tion were further taught, and a fulness of knowledge
expected from them which was not looked for in their
earlier preparation for baptism.
Education, too, as distinct from special preparation
for baptism and confirmation, had been pressed for
ward with all the means at our disposal ; so that
whereas in 1895 hardly a hundred children were re
ceiving secular education at our hands, in 1900, 12,000
were under instruction.
Training in industrial work, too, we also considered
to be a means to the great end in view, viz, the equip
ment of the whole man for the battle of life. The
commencement of this work has already been re
ferred to in Book IV. Chap. III. Since its initiation
a considerable development had taken place. At the
beginning of the new century Martin Hall thus de
scribed the Industrial Mission and its work : —
" The hill of Nviri Bulange is situated about three-
quarters of a mile to the west of Namirembe Hill,
and is crowned with the well-constructed buildings of
the Industrial Mission, At the north end of the
levelled summit stands the house of the superintendent
of the industrial work, Mr. K, Borup, to whose un
tiring industry and mechanical skill much of the
success is due. On either side of the open space runs

264 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI,
a long buUding containing the various workshops,
dormitories, and classrooms of the apprentices. On
the left, as you face Mr, Borup's house, is a building
containing two carpenter's shops, from which some
excellent work has been turned out, the results of
which may be seen throughout the Bishop's new house ;
the door and window frames, as well as the panelled
doors and shutters and not a little of the furniture,
having been made by the apprentices at Bulange, All
the woodwork in the beautiful new hospital is also
their handiwork. There is also a printing-office in
the building, containing four hand-presses, a cutting-
machine, and a machine for sewing books with wire.
Here a good deal of printing is done for the Govern
ment— e.gr,, the whole of the new National Constitu
tion, regimental orders, return forms, &c,, is the work of
the Bulange boys, who make excellent compositors. At
the present time they are engaged in printing a native
commentary on S. Matthew's Gospel and a first reading-
book in Lutoro — a second edition. In the past they
have printed reports of the Diocesan Conference, and
two editions of the Church Canticles pointed for sing
ing, and much other useful literature."
The reader will gather from this extract that the
Industrial Mission was doing good service in the direc
tion of aiding in the great work of fitting the Baganda
for the demands which would be made upon them
as they came in contact with the outside world, and
that in the organisation of the growing Church pro
vision had been made for physical as well as spiritual
and intellectual culture ; and all this with the supreme
end in view of enabling the Christians to meet that
flood of temptation which, sooner or later, we were
convinced must come upon them.

Chap. 40] A NEW ERA 265
No sooner was the treaty of March 10th signed
than chiefs and people ahke commenced in downright
earnest to do their part in fulfilling its obligations.
The former were concerned principally in marking out
their land claims. The latter (the peasantry) found
their occupation in seeking to raise the three rupees
for their hut tax. It does not sound a large sum —
four shilhngs. But it must be remembered that in
1900 there were comparatively few rupees in the
country. Tens of thousands of people had never seen
a rupee in their hfe. Cowrie shells, of course, they
were familiar with, and these for a time were accepted
by the Government at the rate of eight hundred to a
rupee. But even the raising of two thousand four
hundred shells was a great task for very many of the
people. How hardly they were put to it could be seen
in the devices adopted for " raising the wind." All
kinds of weird things were brought for sale — curios
which for years had not seen the Hght of day — shields,
spears, and charms connected with the Lubare worship.
Resort was even had to an old custom, and parents
pawned their children for a year or two. Every
Mission station was thronged with men seeking work.
Nothing came amiss ; even the cultivation of land —
the last thing a man will do, as it is women's work —
was not despised and turned away from.
An offer made by the Special Commissioner to remit
the hut tax in exchange for certain wild animals brought
in to Entebbe alive " caught on " at once, A young
elephant secured the remission of the tax on one
thousand huts — equal to £200, Hunters went out
immediately into the wilds, and many a cow was killed
for the calf which died sooner or later on the road,
A young zebra was worth the tax on thirty huts,
a " hippo " that on a hundred ; whilst a wild pig only

266 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
secured remission of the tax on a solitary dwelhng-
place. It was not long before the Commissioner was
obhged to cry " Hold ! enough," and the taxpayer
had to resort to more prosaic methods of getting the
needed rupees.
The effect upon our work of this widespread dis
turbance of the country — the game of " general post,"
and this sudden start up into life and activity of those
who for so long had been accustomed to " take things
easy" — was for a time very marked. Congregations
were scattered, classes broken up, and for about
three months the routine work of the Church practi
cally ceased. Then came a period of resettlement.
New congregations took the place of the old ones which
had been scattered to the four winds. Fresh classes
were formed as new candidates for baptism or con
firmation came forward. Thus gradually the work
resumed its normal aspect and settled down on very
much the same lines as before.
But the statistics for the year showed how serious
had been the immediate effect upon our work of the
inauguration of the new order of things. Although,
taking several years together, this was a period of
growth, there was a considerable falling off for the
year in the number of those baptized compared with
the previous year. In 1899, 4796 souls had been
admitted into the visible Church. The number for
1900 was 4304 — a diminution of nearly 500. The
falling off in the number of children under instruction
was even more marked. In the former year 11,359
were in our schools. In the latter year the number
sank to 7682, The finances of the Church also felt
the effect of the new Government measures, although
not to such an extent as we feared. The offertories
feU from Rs. 5076 to Rs. 4724. In the book depart-

Chap, 40] A NEW ERA 267
ment, however, the effect was much more serious.
For a time sales almost ceased, and no man would
part with his money. The hut tax was the first con
sideration, and until that had been got together all
else must give way. But besides this very reasonable
desire to make the home secure, the break-up of classes
for instruction lessened the need for books, and conse
quently the demand.
But all these results of the new legislation we felt
were but temporary, and that in a few months time
things would right themselves. Nor were we dis
appointed. Even before the year 1900 had run its
course there commenced an era of progress in the
Church such as it had never yet seen, and at the close
of 1901 the lost ground had been more than made up.
The baptisms sprang up from 4304 to 5536. The
children in our schools increased from 7682 to 12,363,
and the native contribution to the work of the Church
rose from Rs. 4724 to Rs, 5406. But perhaps the
most significant and cheering advance was in the
number of teachers and evangelists engaged in the
work. The number at the close of 1900 was 2026, but
a year later the nmnber stood at 2408.
The book sales, too, took a sudden leap forward,
and more than resumed their former average. In 1899
the total number of books sold was 60,338. The
cowrie shells received in exchange numbered 7,358,000,
or as many as 368 men could carry at 70 lbs. each.
These sheUs reahsed £1026. In 1900 the sales feU to
£784 ; but in 1901, when the affairs of the country were
more settled, books and stationery, &c, to the amount
of £1100 were disposed of.
The sale of books I have always regarded as a good
indication of the attitude of the people towards the
work of the Church, Large sales spoke of interest if

268 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI,
not of enthusiasm. On the other hand, small sales
were eloquent of lack of interest if not of indifference.
Large sales of the Mateka, or first reading-book, told of
heathen seeking instruction ; a ready sale of the Bishop's
Catechism was an indication that candidates for Con
firmation were coming forward ; and so on. It was
encouraging, therefore, to notice how almost every
kind of book was in increasing demand. This meant,
as the event proved, that a general revival in every
department of the work was in progress, and that we
should very soon see it in crowded classes and in
Baptism and Confirmation services.
The resettlement of the country consequent upon
the new land tenure brought with it a considerable
amount of work both for the Church Council and aU
the missionaries in charge of districts. Included in
Sir Harry Johnston's powers was authority to deal
with the land claims of the Church. She had for years
been in possession of a certain amount of landed
property. As need arose she had from time to time
apphed to the king for a site here or there, for a Mission
station, or for other necessities of the work of the
Church. These, having been granted, were held not
by the Church Missionary Society but by the Mengo
Church Council. Sir Harry Johnston, instead of hold
ing an inquiry into the validity of our title to this or
that fiece of land, took the simpler method of allotting
to each Mission a certain area of land which might be
held in various parts of the Protectorate. " If," said
he, " your land claims are in excess of that amount,
you must cut them down. If they happen to be less,
you may add to them the amount of square miles
by which they fall short." This proposal was readily
accepted by the Missions, and on the conclusion of the
treaty we commenced at once to mark out the number

Chap. 40] A NEW ERA 269
of square mUes allotted to us, including, of course, all
the estates of which we were then in possession. This,
as I have said, threw a considerable amount of work
and a large measure of responsibility both upon the
Church Council and the missionaries in charge of
districts. But upon no one did it fall more heavily
than upon Millar, who acted as correspondent on
behalf of the Church and generally conducted the
business of the registration of our claims. This work
was not completed until well on in the year 1901.
Happily at this time of stress of work and of great
possibihties, as shown by the figures which I have
quoted, there was a notable increase in the strength
of the missionary staff. WilHs, Weatherhead junior.
Eraser, Davies, Kemp, and PhiUips arrived in Decem
ber 1900, They had been preceded by four ladies new
to the work, the Misses A, E. Allen, A, B. Glass,
R. Hurditch, and A, H. Robinson, who reached Mengo
on March 31st. Of the men, WilHs was located in
Nkole to take up the work so auspiciously begun,
as told in Book V, Chap, XXXIX. Weatherhead was
assigned to Nakanyonyi, Eraser to Mengo, Davies to
Busoga, and Kemp to Nasa, Of the ladies. Miss Allen
was located at Gayaza and Miss Robinson in Mengo,
while Miss Hurditch it was decided should go to Toro
and share there the work amongst women with Miss
Pike, who was being transferred from Gayaza, This
location of ladies in the far-away country of Toro was
an extension of women's work which in the providence
of God was to be attended with most happy results.
On Trinity Sunday, June 10th, Yosiya Kizito, Yoweri
Wamala, and Aloni Muyinda were ordained to the
Diaconate, whilst Samwili Kamwakabi and Edwadi
Bakayana, together with Fisher and Casson, were ad
mitted to Deacons Orders. The native ministry was

270 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
now assuming large proportions. It numbered twenty -
seven priests and deacons, and was doing good service
in ministering to the increasing thousands who were
yearly being gathered into the fold of Christ.
The effect of this welcome accession to our strength,
timely and helpful as it was, was sadly marred by the
distressing illness of several members of the Mission.
Archdeacon Walker went down with black-water fever,
and was invalided home in June. From the same
cause Weatherhead followed in December. Dr. A. R.
Cook, who in March had married Miss Timpson, was a
few weeks later laid aside with a lengthened attack of
typhoid fever, Mrs, Lloyd also was terribly ill — nigh
unto death — but happily was raised up again. But in
August the heaviest blow of all fell in the death of
Martin Hall by drowning at the south of the Lake,
In the meanwhile calls were coming to me from
various parts of the field, Singo and the islands were
especially insistent. At Mitiana and in the island of
Busi beautiful new churches had been built and were
awaiting dedication. To such calls there could be but
one answer, and with as little delay as possible I re
sponded. The church at Mitiana was dedicated on
Easter Sunday, and that at Busi on the following
Sunday, Then came visits to Nakanyonyi in June,
Bulemezi in July, Busoga in August, and in October
a long journey through Budu to Koki and back, and
finally on December 3rd I started on my fourth visit
to that interesting sphere of labour Toro,
Among the notable events of the year was the com
pletion of the new hospital, and its opening by Sir
Harry Johnston on May 31st, It was a fine building
some 120 feet long, and at its widest part 60 feet
across. It had been built by the Baganda themselves,
under the supervision of Mr. Borup. In it there

Chap. 40] A NEW ERA 271
was accommodation for fifty beds — twenty-five for men,
and a similar number for women. There was also an
operating room, with many conveniences for the surgical
work of the doctors.
How much such a building was needed will be
gathered from the fact stated in the report that no
fewer than 511 sick ones were treated within its wards
during the year 1900, and that some 233 operations,
some of them of a most severe character, were per
formed, whilst the attendance of the outdoor patients
numbered 33,983,
The spiritual work carried on among these sick ones
was of a very striking character, Dr, J, H, Cook
speaks in one of his letters of the " joy " of it, and his
brother, Dr, A, R, Cook, writing at the same time of
the results, says : —
" One interesting fact, not of course confined to
hospital patients, may be taken as absolutely true,
the change in the face of those who are learning about
Christ, I have seen this over and over again, and
on asking others, they have told me the same thing.
Their faces seem positively plastic under the moulding
of the Holy Spirit, The duU, unintelligent look that
so many of the quite ignorant wear on first coining into
the wards changes in as short a period as two or three
weeks into a far more intelhgent and brighter ' facies '
to use a medical term. We doctors speak of the
' facies Hippocratici ' and the ' facies ' of this or that
disease, but thank God this is a ' facies ' of life, ever
lasting Hfe, and not of death or disease,"
Here is an answer, if any were needed, to any
one who questions from a missionary standpoint the
" worthwhileness " of medical missions. They are a
spiritual force doing a Christ-like work. Of their

272 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
necessity, as of their scope, there can be no doubt. As
Whittier says : —
' The holiest task by Heaven decreed,
An errand all divine,
The burden of your common need,
To render less is thine.
The paths of pain are thine. Go forth
With patience, trust, and hope ;
The sufferings of a sin-sick world
Shall give thee ample scope.'

CHAPTER XLI
progress
' There are nettles everywhere,
But smooth green grasses are more common stiU,
The blue of Heaven is larger than the cloud.'
E. B. Beowning.
The year 1901 opened mournfuUy, with clouds and
dark shadows. The telegraph, which had recently
reached Mengo and had been carried on to Entebbe,
brought us in the closing days of January the sad
and solemn tidings of the death of Queen Victoria.
The sympathy of the Baganda with us in our sorrow
was very real, and showed itself in many touching
ways. Not only did they attend in large numbers
the memorial services in the Cathedral and at Entebbe,
but many of the principal chiefs called upon us
specially to condole with us. " Queenie," as they had
long been accustomed to call Her Majesty, was to
them the very personffication not only of power but
also of wisdom and goodness. " Sorrow has indeed
come to you, my friend," was the salutation which
greeted you for many a day as Baganda friends met
you in the way.
The echoes of the booming minute-guns had hardly
died away when I found myself once more on the
road. Ndeje and Ngogwe were in turn visited within
the space of a week. At the former place 342 candi
dates were confirmed, and at the latter 99. Then came
Confirmations at Busi, Jungo, Gayaza, and finally
II ""' s

274 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
Mengo. At the service at the latter place no fewer
than 407 candidates received the laying on of hands.
Altogether the first three months of 1901 saw no fewer
than 1253 men and women added to the communicants
roll — a notable increase for which one was profoundly
thankful, as a token that the stream of the Church's
life was deepening as well as widening.
With this increase in the inner circle of the Church
there was given, happily, an enlarged scope for work.
The province of Bwekula, on the western border of
Singo, had for some time been in our minds as a field
which with as little delay as possible should be occupied.
Tegart, who in 1899 was in charge of the Singo work,
gathered together a band of young men and led them
forth, planting one here and another there. The ex
periment was a hazardous one, as the whole of Bwekula
was under the control of Roman Catholic chiefs,
intolerant to a degree. Persecution and hindrance
there was certain to be for some time to come. How
ever, these young Baganda evangehsts went forth full
of zeal and hope — their very hopefulness a sure augury
of success. A pessimistic missionary is foredoomed to
failure. The optimist, on the other hand, has reached
his goal before he starts in the race. Hope is born of
faith, and honours that God who has said, " Them
that honour Me I will honour." Rarely if ever in my
missionary experience have I known a missionary who
doubted of success achieve it. Nor have I ever seen
a missionary disappointed who tackled his work in the
spirit of one to whom the prospect was as bright as the
promises of God could make it. Sooner or later his
testimony is that of those who in the early days came
back to the Master who had sent them forth with the
confession, " Even the devils are subject unto us in
Thy name."

Chap. 41] PROGRESS 275
Nor were we disappointed in Bwekula. Although at
the beginning of the work there was but one solitary
reader in the whole of the province, before eighteen
months had passed by some 1500 were under instruc
tion. Happily, in January 1901 we were able to send
Lewin, who had just returned from furlough, to take
charge of this highly promising work. The following is
the testimony to what had already been accomphshed : —
" Only some eighteen months ago the darkness
was deep and great ; now — and it rejoices me to say
it — some 1500 persons are under daily instruction
in the Httle villages dotted from the Katonga river
in the south to the Albert Lake in the north. I am
sure this speaks much for the teachers sent amongst
them, who, in the midst of bitter persecution — for
when we first came every chief in the district was
against us — have been able, by the good hand of our
God upon them, to do so much. The devotion of
some of them has been most marked. One living not
far from the Albert Lake, where the people are of the
poorest type, came and told me almost with tears
that their little church had fallen down, and while
saying that he was sleeping in a wretched hut exposed
to rain and wild beasts (for it is a noted place for lions
and leopards), yet added, 'Although it is a real hardship
living out here with such dirty people, poor housing,
and no bananas, yet let them only first build a new
house for God and I will gladly put up with my
personal discomforts,' Another, on receiving Rs.3 and
600 shells, gave Rs.3 to his parents, keeping only the
600 shells to go towards his clothing. Such, taking
them as a whole, has been their spirit, and it is owing
to them that the results are what they are."
Since this was written there has been further pro
gress " all along the Hne." The temporary church at

276 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI,
Kikoma (the central station), built to accommodate
two hundred and fifty worshippers, has been replaced
by a substantial structure capable of seating seven
hundred. Mikaeri Bagenda, a native pastor of much
force of character, is in charge, and at the time of
writing (October 1907) more than a thousand souls
have actually been brought into the Church, of whom
more than four hundred have their names on the
communicants roll. Some hundred and fifty teachers
and evangelists are at work in various parts of the
provinces, and large numbers of children gather day
by day in the schools. So true is it that
' The fountain of God is full of the rainstorms of Blessing.'
Another direction in which further scope was given
to our work at this particular juncture was eastward
in what is known as the Bakedi country, i.e. the country
of the " wUd " or " naked people." Simei Kakungulu,
the chief of Bugerere on the west bank of the Nile near
to its junction with Lake Kioga, had brought occasionally
some Bakedi to work for him at his place near Mengo.
There we had come in contact with them, and in con
sequence longed for the day when we might be able to
do something for their evangelisation.
The first missionary to pay them a visit was Black
ledge, Early in 1899 he made his way from Nakanyonyi
to Bugerere, and thence crossing the NUe, found himself
in the midst of this wUd people. He teUs of a gathering
of some five hundred of them, and how in answer to
his appeals several of their chiefs got up and in the
presence of their foUowers stated their wiUingness to
receive Christian teachers. They had heard what the
Gospel had done for the Baganda, and wished a like
blessing.

Chap. 41] PROGRESS 277
In January 1900 Buckley paid these same people a
visit, and spent some two or three weeks among them.
Crossing Lake Kioga in canoes, he made his way to the
headquarters of Simei Kakungulu, who had recently
been made the overlord of the Bukedi country.
Simei Kakungulu is one of the most remarkable men
whom I have ever met in Central Africa. He is one of
nature's gentlemen, but one whose natural refinement
of character has been beautified by many Christian
graces. A gallant soldier, a splendid organiser, and
a far-seeing politician, he has imbued almost every
Government officer or European traveller with whom
he has come in contact with the highest opinions of
his uprightness of conduct, capacity for administration,
and staunch loyalty to the British Government. In
1893 Simei held the high office of Kimbugwe in King
Mwanga's household. He found, however, that the
tradition of the office obliged him more or less to take
up and maintain an attitude of hostility towards the
Katikiro, The result was that the two chief men in
the kingdom were continually " fratching," to use a
north-country expression. This hostile feehng com
municated itself somewhat to their followers. So
much was this the case at one time that it was with
difficulty that they were prevented from coming to
blows, I have now in my possession a letter from Simei,
written in 1893, announcing his resignation of his
office, and telling me that his action was due entirely
to his strong conviction that as a Christian man it
was impossible for him to live a life of continual
contention with a fellow Christian. He gave up high
office and large emoluments entirely from conscientious
motives, and retiring to Bugerere, lived a life of com
parative obscurity. From that he was called, as I

278 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI
have already stated, by the Government to the over-
lordship of Bukedi, There Buckley found him on the
occasion of his visit at the beginning of 1900. Simei
heartUy welcomed his visitor. Men were set to work,
and in a few days a rude church was run up, in which
on the Sunday foUowing some two hundred and fifty
people came together for worship.
In November 1900 Crabtree, who had been engaged
in linguistic work at Gayaza, started with his wife for
a hohday, proposing to travel in the same direction
as the previous visitors to the Bukedi country. He
eventuaUy made his way to Masaba in the district of
Mount Elgon, and established himself at a place caUed
Nabumale among the Bagishu, a large tribe, said to be
almost as numerous as the Baganda, but cut up into a
number of smaU clans, each clan independent of the
other, and only those associating who were imme
diately contiguous.
So attractive did Crabtree find the opening, and so
great the opportunity for work, that he wrote and
asked my permission to remain. This was readUy
accorded. His belongings at Gayaza were sent for —
a house was buUt — the people caUed together and told
of the object of our mission. Some agreed at once to
come under instruction. A place of meeting — a school
or church, caU it which you wUl — was run up, and
extension to Bukedi became an accomphshed fact :
an interesting and almost unique ending to a hohday
trip. The Bagishu, among whom Crabtree and his wife
thus found themselves settled at the beginning of 1901,
are Bakedi in the sense of their being " wUd and naked
people," But it is a question whether they ought not
properly to be regarded as people of Kavirondo. How
ever that may be, the broad fact remains that at

ONE OF THE SHOULDERS OF MT. ELGON, "NKOKO NJERL'

Chap. 41] PROGRESS 279
Masaba we have to do with a people as primitive, as
ignorant, and as superstitious as perhaps any people
in Africa.
Their language is an archaic form of Bantu, and has
in it many words closely aUied to both Luganda and
Lunyoro. This fact lends a certain amount of pro
babUity to a behef current among the Baganda that
they as weU as the Bunyoro came originaUy from
ilasaba. Hardly any of the clans into which the tribe is
divided hve in the plains ; they are hiU-dweUers, mainly
for the sake of security. Some few are dweUers in caves
for the same reason. On the spurs of Mount Elgon
they find their chief safety, cultivating in the vaUeys
but Hving on the heights.
They are a wUd, undisciplined people, mostly nude,
much given to strong drink of their own manufacture,
Hving mainly on sweet potatoes and a smaU grain
caUed " bulo," and imphcit behevers in witchcraft
and the power of evU spirits, whom they seek to pro
pitiate by sacrifices and offerings of various kinds.
Whilst the Church was thus utilising the forces of
her deepening stream of Hfe in extension both east
and west, she was at the same time engaged in the
task of estabhshing herself more firmly at the centre
of her activities. The true processes in Church work
should always be carried on simultaneously. There
must ever be fulness of life and power at the heart,
or there wUl be weakness at the extremities. And
therefore it was that at this period of extension the
utmost efforts were directed to the supremely im
portant task of training teachers, evangehsts, and
candidates for ordination. The result was that whUe
at the close of 1900 we had eighty-nine such men under
instruction, a year later the number had risen to one

280 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
hundred and eighty-nine. The schools at Mengo showed
a similar increase, and also the classes for Bible study.
This study, as I have pointed out in an earher part of
this work, was influencing the life and the thoughts of
the people to a remarkable degree. Scripture names
were almost always given at baptism. A chief would
caU his place by a name suggested by Scripture. Their
letters were fuU of Scripture phrases. How far Scripture
had at this time permeated the Hfe of the Baganda
wffi perhaps be best shown by the foUowing incident
which happened at a meeting of the National CouncU.
The Katikiro himself teUs the story.^
" I am writing you an account of a strange thing
that has taken place in our CouncU, referring to
Mohammedans. Mbogo, a son of Suna (the king who
preceded Mutesa), the head of the Mohammedans, came
before the CouncU accusing an Islamite, Mabizi, of
calling himself by the name of God and claiming that
he had seen a vision from heaven in which he was told
that his name was now to be Allah Sudi Delaki, and
he received four other names besides. Mbogo claimed
that the man was lying. So the CoimcU asked him,
' Are these things so ? ' and he rephed that they were.
He said also that for a long time he had had visions,
and that his relations confirmed this, and beheved in
them aU. ' On March 1st this year,' he said, ' I saw a
vision, and AUah ! (God !) said to me : " You shaU be
caUed ' Allah Sudi Delaki ' and ' Messenger ' and
' Apostle ' and ' Highest ' and ' Prophet ' ; " and, my
friends, I did not know whether these names were
good or bad. Now, if you in this CouncU teU me that
the people must not call me so, I wUl obey you.' After
hearing aU the witnesses, we asked the Mohammedans
what their opinion was of the man, and they rephed
1 " Uganda Notes."

Chap. 41] PROGRESS 281
that he ought to be put to death for blaspheming God.
But the Christians in the Council said : ' It is not good
to kill him, because the words are not against man
but God. Let God fight for Himself. He wiU defend
His Holy Name.' And they fetched a Bible and re
ferred to Acts V, 34-40, and xh, 21-24, and said,
' God will Himself pass sentence on him.' He left the
Council in great joy, sajdng he had overcome his
accusers ; but as soon as he reached the threshold of
his house he was taken very ill, fell down suddenly,
and blood rushed from his nose in a stream, and
he died almost immediately. When they heard this
everybody iwas greatly astonished, and said God was
truly present and His name had been glorified, and
must not be trifled with, for He is Lord of Heaven and
earth, and all feared Him greatly,"
What a graphic story ! How touching in its sim
plicity ! The accuser, Mbogo, the son of Suna — the
accused, a false prophet — the charge, blasphemy —
the Bible sent for — the passages quoted — God's judg
ment upon Herod because he gave not Him the glory
— Gamaliel's advice to the Sanhedrin, " If this thing
be of men it wUl come to nought, but if it be of God
ye cannot overthrow it, lest haply ye be found fighters
against God." And then the climax — the man dis
missed, his sudden and awful end ; and finally the
conclusion, " And all men feared the Lord greatly."
It would be difficult to describe in plainer terms
than this story tells the influence which the Word of
God has exercised on the hearts and minds of the
people of Uganda, or the wonderful change which in a
few short years has come over the land. Only fifteen
years before Mwanga had plotted in that CouncU the
destruction of the infant Church, and now that very
Council — composed now, of course, of Christian men —

282 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
before coming to a conclusion on a question of im
portance, asks the solemn question, " What say the
Scriptures ? " and gives its decision in accordance with
their teaching.
And on another matter bearing very intimately upon
the Church's life the study of the Word of God had
considerable influence, I refer to the question of a
new cathedral. To some minds this may not appear
to bear very closely upon the life of the Church, and
yet in truth it does. What the Church is at the capital,
that more or less the churches are throughout the
country. The order of service in the cathedral is very
closely, very scrupulously followed in the country dis
tricts, and thus a shabby, tumble-down church with
a slovenly service at Mengo really meant similar
structures and similar services elsewhere. On the
other hand, a well-built and weU-ordered cathedral
would influence church building, and therefore to a
certain extent Church life, throughout Uganda,
It must be confessed that in 1901 our cathedral was
getting very dilapidated. It had now been standing
some years ; but the materials of which it was built
were of a very flimsy kind — timber, reeds and grass.
Decay began to set in even before it was finished.
There was a great deal to admire in such a building.
The great forest of poles supporting the roof was a
striking feature in its construction. The vistas down
the aisles, and the lights glinting on a pole here and
another there, were very beautiful. The mellow,
yellow reeds, tied together with a dark-brown fibre in
long horizontal lines and quaint tracery, were dis
tinctly picturesque. It was all so entirely native ;
you could not imagine such a building anywhere else
than in Africa. Had it been a permanent structure,
one would have said, " Let it stand ; we want nothing

Chap. 41] PROGRESS 283
better or more suitable." But the life of such a
buUding is hardly more than six or seven years, and
continual renewal or rebuilding is a sore tax upon
limited native resources. It was felt that the time
had come for building a really permanent cathedral.
But of what material 1 That was the " rub." Stone
is a minus quantity in Mengo. The wattle and daub
structure was unsubstantial ; reeds and timber even
more so. Brick, it was clear, was the only alternative.
But what about the cost of such a building ? How
was it to be paid for ? How were funds to be raised ?
I have said that the study of the Scriptures had had
a considerable influence on this question. It was in
this wise, A meeting of the chief and more prominent
Christians was called by the Katikiro to consider the
matter. As a matter of course a passage of Scripture
was read, viz, 1 Chron, xxix. The whole meeting was
struck with David's question and its response : " Who
then is willing to consecrate his service this day unto
the Lord ? Then the chief of the fathers and princes
of the tribes of Israel, and the captains of thousands
and of hundreds, with the rulers of the king's work,
offered willingly," And so it was determined it should
be in Uganda ; every man should give according to his
means. The cost of the buUding was first estimated,
and then the amount to be given by each chief was
mutually agreed upon. The Regents gave Rs.500 each,
equal to £33, 6s. 8d., and the lesser chiefs in proportion to
their means, and so on. But this was not all. No sooner
was the plan of the building decided upon than the
whole body of the Christian men, women, and chUdren
set to work to do their part towards the accomphsh-
ment of this great undertaking.
It was an inspiring sight to see long strings of men
going to the swamps every day to dig clay, and then

284 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI,
to see them wending their way up the steep hillside
of Namirembe, heavy loads of clay upon their heads.
Heading the procession was often the Katikiro him
self (now Sk Apolo Kagwa, K,C,M.G,), carrying a
heavier load than any of the others. Even boys of
seven or eight years of age did their share, and carried
their httle burdens of clay for the brick-makers.
Then the women were fired with the prevaUing en
thusiasm, and went out into the forests and gathered
wood for the burning of the bricks. Princesses and
wives of chiefs, as weU as peasant women, vied with
one another in their eager desire to help forward the
work of buUding for the worship of God a house that
should be " exceeding magnffical."
The plan as set out by ]\Ir. Borup, who superintended
the whole work from first to last, was cruciform. The
entire length was to be 210 feet. It was to be Hghted
by seventy windows. Eighteen round brick columns
with octagonal bases were to support the roof, which
was to be surmounted by three spires. The seating
capacity was to be about 4000,
At j length on June 18th the foundation-stone of
the new cathedral was laid by the young king Daudi
Cwa, The stone was a great block which for some
time had served to mark the last resting-place of George
PUkington. It weighed nearly half a ton. A marble
cross had been sent out from England, so the huge block
was free to be consecrated to another service. The
httle king, assisted by Borup, lowered it into its place,
repeating as he did so the solemn words, " In the
name of the Father and of the Son and of the Holy
Ghost," And so the great enterprise was launched, a work
which was to take some two years to complete. But
its doing was to be a great help and blessing to the

Chap. 41] PROGRESS 285
doers. It was to call out perseverance and patience.
It was to give new ideas as to labour ; it was to deepen
love, to strengthen faith, and to impart lessons of
humihty and self-a.basement, as well also as self-sacrifice
and self-denial. And so the prayers of more than one
engaged in the work came to be not only that it might
be brought to a successful conclusion, but that it might
be worthy of Hira for whose worship and glory it was
being done. ' Forgive ihe weakness and the pride,
If marred thereby our gift may bo,
H\)r love at least has sanctified
Tho altar that wo raise to Thee.'

CHAPTER XLII
the UGANDA RAILWAY
' The Past and Present here unite
Beneath Time's flowing tide,
Like the foot-prints hidden by a brook,
But seen on either side.'
Longfellow.
As we have already seen, the dawning of the new
century was for Uganda the dawning of an era of
change. The old order of things was passing away.
The legislation of 1900 was responsible for much — the
break-up of the feudal system and the introduction of
rent and wages. In 1901 three other silent but irre
sistible forces commenced to work in the same direction,
changing almost imperceptibly, but very really, the
lives of thousands. I refer to the electric telegraph,
steam communication across the Lake, and the Uganda
Railway. To the coming of the electric telegraph I
have already alluded. Steam communication across
the Lake was established by the launching of the
William Mackinnon in November 1900, and her arrival
at Entebbe early in the following year. On December
20, 1901, the first locomotive of the Uganda RaUway
reached Kisumu, the terminus on the Victoria Nyanza.
These three forces were in truth but one. Each
was incomplete without the other for all practical
purposes. Each was the complement of the other,
and therefore in considering them, effects may be
dealt with as one ; the Uganda Railway was the
embodiment of all.

Chap, 42] THE UGANDA RAILWAY 287
This railway, commenced in 1896, was the logical con
clusion of the decision of the British Government to
become responsible for the administration of Uganda.
It was a pohtical as well as a commercial necessity. To
secure our position as the protecting power in Uganda,
a raUway was absolutely indispensable. We have seen
already how invaluable in hurrying up troops at the
time of the Sudanese mutiny in 1897 was the small
section (not more than one-sixth) then completed. It
is safe to say that had it not been for that one hundred
miles of railway Uganda would have been for a time
at any rate lost to us.
But the railway was not only a pohtical it was also
a financial necessity. Uganda would never pay the
cost of administration imless the products of her fertile
soil coiUd be brought cheaply into the markets of the
world. Her development and that of the interior of
British East Africa depended absolutely, from a com
mercial standpoint, upon the construction of a railway.
The cheers which greeted the announcement of the
Government in the House of Commons in 1896 that
the buUding of the railway had been sanctioned, was
the expression of a general recognition of this twofold
necessity. The railway as it is to-day, completed and in run
ning order, is a remarkable achievement, a triumph of
engineermg skill over difficulties of no ordinary kind.
The scarcity of water, the Httle labom* available, the
lack of material — indeed, of almost everA-thiug needful
for such an undertaking — were some of the obstacles
to be overcome. Then there was the fight with the
unhealthy climate of the coast distiicts, the necessity
of importing not merely labourers from India by the
thousand, but also food for their maintenance ; added
to these difficulties, there were those connected with

288 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
the configuration of the country. To carry a raUway
over swamps, across ravines, overcoming almost every
kind of physical obstacle, to an elevation of nearly
7000 feet, and then to plunge with it into a vaUey (the
great Rift VaUey) 1500 feet below you, only to find
that vou had in front of you an escarpment (that of
^lau) up which you were bound to climb with your
raUway tUl you found yourself in the clouds 8500 feet
above sea-level, and to take it down to a lake shore
nearly 5000 feet below you, was an undertaking which
might weU daunt the boldest and most skilful of
engineers. But it was faced with the cahn, quiet,
dogged determination of those in whose vocabulary
the word " impossible " finds no place — a spirit which
has made Enghsh engineers famous throughout the
world. To the ordinary traveUer a journey by this raUway
is an experience not easUy forgotten, but to one who,
like myself, has toUed in the old days along the caravan
road to Uganda it is of pecuhar interest. One sees
here and there the old camping places and other weU
remembered spots — the narrow footpath disappearing
into the bush, or emerging from a thicket, the grateful
shade of which one was loth to exchange for the blaze
and glare of the open plain. Yonder is the great
!Mbuvu tree where one rested when the kettle was
being boUed and refreshment made ready. There are
the water-holes of Taro, which one inspected so
anxiously in view of the journey across the dreaded
plains. And now over the plains themselves one is
being whirled at thirty mUes an hour, instead of creep
ing along weary and footsore as in the old days. And
there is Matmgu, the hiU on the top of which you might
find water, but possibly not, and then you had to
journey on another twenty mUes. It was there that

Chap. 42] THE UGANDA RAILWAY 289
scores of Basoga died in '92, not finding water and
being too exhausted to travel further. I saw their
bones littering the way. But now, in response to a
telegram sent on ahead, you find afternoon tea awaiting
you. The tourist, of course, has his attention drawn to
other scenes and his mind is filled with other thoughts.
Upon him perhaps the greatest impression is made by
the strange interminghng, so to speak, of the past with
the present, the meeting of primitive man with the
latest products of the twentieth century. The train
has reached a roadside station and the panting engine
is replenishing its stores of wood and water, and looking
on with stolid wonder is a party of El Moran, young
Masai warriors with spear and shields, and their
finely modelled limbs shining in the sunlight like
burnished bronze. Or the stationmaster is trying to
make a huge Mkamba warrior, whose only clothing is
a few coils of brass wire round his arms and a mantle
of goat-skin, understand that he has no business on
the platform. It is all very strange and very wonderful,
this contrast of Africa as it was a hundred years ago
with the incoming tide of twentieth century civilisation.
And then there is the indescribable charm of the scenery
of tropical Africa, the rolling plains like the Athi, the
volcanic peaks like Longonot, the glittering lake like
Naivasha, the dense, dark forests, like those on Man,
all alike entrancing with their own peculiar beauty.
But what perhaps has a very special fascination for
such travellers as we have in mind, is the wild animal
life which, even as the train is rushing along, he sees
on every hand. Yonder are hartebeests, and away in
the distance are battalions of wildebeests or zebra.
There in the foreground, almost within a stone's-throw,
are hundreds of that most beautiful of antelopes, the
II T

290 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
Thomsonh or the Grantu; and there against the sky
line, with the fleecy clouds as a background, is a flock
of ostriches ghding along with that indescribable grace
which is so characteristic of them.
Oh ! it is a wUd life, a free life, and a healthy life,
of which aU these things speak, and to one who is fresh
from the home-land, with aU the restraints and hoUow-
nesses and artfficiahties of twentieth century society,
it appeals with a very special power and a pecuhar
fascination ; and this in spite of such atrocities (from
an aesthetic point of view) as the tin town of Nairobi
(the administrative capital of British East Africa)
and those corrugated excrescences on the landscape,
commonly caUed bungalows, in which our settlers are
setthng themselves.
But what, it may be asked, has the raUway done,
and what is it doing ? One thing it has most certainly
done. It has kiUed that cruel system of porterage
which has so long existed between the coast and the
Lake, and which has been responsible for so much
human suffering and for the loss of countless Hves,
It has done this not only in British East Africa, as
it was certain to do, but also, strange to say, in German
East Africa, The caravan road between Usukuma
and Sadaani or Bagamoyo is dead. Those thousands
of Wanyamwezi, who in the old days used to find their
way to the coast, in order to bring loads up country,
no longer do so. They are now engaged in other occu
pations — the cultivation of produce, &c. The Germans
at the south of the Lake find that they can get their
goods and send their produce more cheaply by the
Uganda raUway than by caravan. And so, by the
operation of natural laws, human porterage on the
main roads between the coast and the Lake, both in
British and German East Africa, has passed away

CiiAK 42] THE UGANDA RAILWAY 291
T'hc.n again the (Jgandii, railway has fint an end to
till! lingering life of tin; slave trallic. In the old days
a tusk of ivory mcnut a slave to carry it to the coast.
Now, lifjwever, ivory is brought down country by rail.
It is (!hea|)er, and th(vr(ifor(! pays better. And so once
again, through the constrntstion of the Uganda railway
and the ofKiration of economic laws, is humanity the
gainer. But |)(;ilifi,ps the most remarkable; result of the con-
Htru(;tion of 1/lie railway has been the way in which the
whole of th(i Lake region of Ctuitral Africa has been
aroused from its ngc-long slumber, and electrified into
life and action. This has been brought about mainly
througli a value being given to certain niitive products
whic/h f)r(;vious to tin; completion of this railway were
valucsless, or very nearly so. For instance, goat-skins
were [)ra,(;ti(;ally of no value, but no sooner was Entebbe
eonne(;l,ed by steam with the coast than they became
at oncMs il, niurlccstable commodity, fetching something
lik(! oiK! rii [)(!(! a[)iece. It was the same with hides,
Nkole, 'IViro, Bunyoro, and Bukedi, ail alike contri-
but/ed their (juotu, sweUing to large dimensions the
number of skins and hides exported from Uganda,
Roads fornuu'ly hardly traversed, except by a few,
b(!cam(! a seeiH! of busy traffic, thronged with men
b(!ii,ring ufjon tluiir iKiiids huge burdens of skins, all
alike bound for tli<', market.
it was the same with regard to chillies. Previously
valueless, at once they became a source of wealth to
th(! Basoga, and large (juantities found their way to
.Hnju for slii[)ment to the eoast.
To the William Mackinnon, [ilying between Entebbe
jind Kisumu, wc^re added in 1903 two very much
larger steamers, llu; Winifred and the Sybil, each
175 f(!et long, with considerable cargo and passenger

292 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
accommodation. In 1907 a larger steamer still, the
Clement Hill, was launched, and later a capacious cargo
boat was put upon the Lake, Altogether, in connection
with the railway at the time of writing, a fleet of some
six steamers is afloat upon the Victoria Nyanza,
The reader who has followed one's description of
canoe voyaging upon the Lake will readily enter into
one's feelings on finding oneself on board one of these
beautiful steamers, with their bath-rooms and dining
saloons, their electric light and electric fans, and
luxurious fittings. It is all too luxurious, you think,
for a simple missionary on a missionary journey, and
you are almost dumbfounded when you hear some
" globe-trotter " or other complaining of the quahty
of the food or the brand of the champagne, " Ah !
my friend," you say to yourself, " you should have
been here ten years ago, and have made the passage in
a canoe, then you would know how to appreciate the
present, and to thank God, not only for the food, but
also for the fact that you are voyaging in safety, and
that that storm which is brewing over yonder is not
likely to sink the ship in which you are saUing."
But to pass on, these steamers call not only at ports
in the British sphere, but also at such ports as Bukoba,
Mwanza, and Shirati, in German territory. The conse
quence is, that just as the produce of Uganda is finding
its way to the market, so is the produce of the German
sphere. From regions round about Tanganyika on to
Tabora, and away westward to the Congo State, the
whole population has beer, aroused, and just as in
Uganda, streams of men are making their way to the
nearest port on the Lake shore with their produce —
bees-wax, hides, goat-skins, cotton, and rubber.
One result of all this has been that the standard of
living has risen in Uganda ; very few of the men, and

Chap. 42] THE UGANDA RAILWAY 293
an ever decreasing number of the women, are now clad
in bark-cloth. The Kanzu, a long white linen garment,
has, in the case of the men, taken the place of the
beautiful terra cotta coloured material which for so
long has been the national dress. One regrets it
intensely for aesthetic reasons, but for hygienic reasons
one is glad. Kerosene oil, for which I have paid as
much as £5 a tin, can now be purchased for Rs,5^;
the consequence is, that lamp oil has become almost
a necessity for all save the very poorest. Plates and
dishes, cups and saucers, pots and pans, and enamelled
ware of all kinds, find ready buyers. Lamps, watches,
clocks, and even bicycles are being purchased to no
inconsiderable extent by natives where enterprise in
cultivating cotton and other produce has been re
warded with success.
A not altogether unexpected result of the building of
the raUway has been the appearance of that element
in social life not inappropriately termed " undesirable,"
East Africa has had more of this element introduced
into it than Uganda, but still we have not been entirely
without it, A very senior Government official who
knew Uganda in the old days, in conversation with
myself, summed up thte position somewhat in the follow
ing way : —
" You remember," said he, " how years ago when a
European arrived in Uganda we all used to turn out
to greet him and made much of him. His coming was
the sensation of the hour. Now, however, Europeans
come and go altogether unnoticed. OccasionaUy,
however," he added, " we get a telegram stating, ' So
and so will arrive at Entebbe by the next steamer —
arrest him ! ! ' "
The " undesirable " to whom such a telegram most
probably had reference, was no doubt a man whose

294 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
business in life is to prey upon his feUow-creatures,
He has lost his character. He has no credit, and
most likely no funds. On the other hand, he has plenty
of swagger, no end of assurance, and a tongue as ghb
as you please. He is a " bounder." In nine cases
out of ten he has come from South Africa, What is
to be done with him in a country like Uganda ? To
let him loose among the people is simply impossible.
He would rob and swindle them right and left. His
prestige as a European would give him such oppor
tunities as his soul longs for. Cattle, sheep, and goats
he would accumulate in large numbers in next to no
time. You have no machinery, no police force to deal
with characters of this kind. There is only one thing
to be done, and that is to forbid his entrance into the
country. The necessity of this, one is glad to think,
the authorities at the coast are keenly alive to.
Of course one pities such men with all one's heart.
You must pity any man who falls so far as these men
have fallen. But you must not allow your pity to
blind you to the evil which they do, or to hinder you
in dealing justly with them.
But more to be pitied than these men are the
" wastrels " of life — poor, weak, feeble things many of
them, not really bent on doing evil or preying upon
their fellow-creatures, but unfortunate-^" down on their
luck." Many such find their way over to Uganda.
They look upon it as a sort of " Tom Tiddler's ground,"
where you have nothing to do but to pick up gold and
silver. 1 know of no sadder cases to deal with than some of
these — broken in health, not unfrequently from dissipa
tion, with no means, ill-clad, with hardly bread to eat,
and often battling with fever. They had some resources
once, possibly when they landed at the coast a year or

Chap. 42] THE UGANDA RAILWAY 295
two ago ; but what they had has disappeared, at Nairobi
or elsewhere. And now they hear that Uganda is being
opened up, and that there is money to be made out of
rubber, or cotton, or coffee, or fibre. God help them !
If there is money in these things they are not the men
to make it. No man of business who looks for efficient
service would think of employing such men. Or if
they get employment, they very soon lose it through
incapacity. They have no vis vitse. What is to be
done with such men ? They should be got out of
the country with aU possible speed. To remain is
simply to die.
From what has been said with regard to the awaken
ing of the tribes owing to the coming of the raUway,
the reader wUl not be surprised to leam that the whole
enterprise is likely to be a great financial success. It
has been a costly undertaking, much more costly than
was at first anticipated, no less a sum than £5,500,000
having been spent from first to last. But nevertheless
the prospect of a large yearly balance on the right side
of the account grows daUy brighter, the receipts are
going forward by leaps and bounds. The monthly
traffic returns both for goods and passengers show a
large increase as compared with corresponding months
of the preceding year. Were the Uganda raUway to
be turned into a limited Habffity company (which is
not Hkely to be the case) the shares would find eager
purchasers, even at a premium, so fuUy have the
financial anticipations of the projectors been reahsed.
But this financial success, whilst no doubt gratifying
to those who had predicted it, is to my mind the least
important result attained by the great undertaking.
The rehef of suffering, the amehoration of the hard lot
of multitudes of souls, and their enlistment in the
great army of workers whose faculties, physical and

296 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI,
mental, are being employed in the God-given task of
subduing the earth, is a much greater achievement ;
for it is one bound up with the eternal purpose of God
concerning that complete redemption of the human
race, when all that is wrong shall be set right, when
" there shall be no more death, neither sorrow nor
crying, and when He will wipe away all tears from
all eyes."

CHAPTER XLIII
sunshine AND SHADOW
' And they blew a trumpet, and all the people said, God save
the King.'— I. Kjngs i. 39.
One of the most interesting events of the year 1902
was the visit of the Katikiro to England for the pturpose
of attending the coronation ceremony in Westminster
Abbey. The visit was an official one, at the invita
tion of the King. Ham Muliasa accompanied om' old
friend Apolo, as secretary ; and Millar by Government
arrangement was attached to the party in order that
both might derive the fullest possible benefit from
their visit to England, through his abihty to explain
to them fully, in their own tongue, the meaning of all
they saw and heard.
I had preceded them by some months, and had
the pleasure of being present at the C.M.S. House
in Salisbury Square when they were welcomed by the
Committee on June 17th.
It was in many respects a touching scene. There
were present there — not many, but stiU some — hke
Mr. Eugene Stock, who had taken part in the planning
of that great venture of faith, the Uganda Mission,
five-and-twenty years previously. And there standing
before them was the Prime Minister of Uganda — a
guest of the King, a man of commanding abihty and
force of character, an earnest Christian who was not
ashamed of his Master, and who, as the mouthpiece of
297

298 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
some five-and-thirty thousand baptized Christians,
was able in earnest tones, and with simple eloquence,
to thank the Society for what it had done for him and
his people.
One can weU understand the thankfulness and praise
to which expression was given when the Committee
knelt in prayer to commend to God's gracious care His
two servants from far off Uganda. The whole thing
was an object lesson of faith and its fruits.
During his stay in England the Katikiro was able to
visit many of our great centres of industry and popu
lation, such as Liverpool, Manchester, Sheffield, and
Birmingham. He afterwards, on his return to Uganda,
gave an account of his impressions. He was addressing
the CouncU and told of the wonders he had seen. The
great steamship Oceanic at Liverpool was to him a
marvel beyond description.
" It was so vast that he got quite tired in travelling
about it. The crowds in the street were Hke ants for
multitude. The houses were very wonderful. You
pressed a button, and lo ! the electric hght shone out.
You pressed another thing in the bath-room, and
wonder of wonders, hot or cold water came as you
wanted it. Then at the Royal AgriciUtural Society's
Show at Carhsle the King's prize cattle were as big as
hippos, and the Shetland ponies as smaU as goats."
But the interest of the visit culminated in the last
two days, when the Katikiro and Ham Mukasa were
received by the King at Buckingham Palace, and
when on the day foUowing his Majesty was crowned.
Ham Mukasa, in his interesting book, " Uganda's
Katikiro in England," thus describes the coronation
ceremony : —
" The Queen then entered ; they brought her in, in
great state. Her train was carried by eight pages.

Chap, 43] SUNSHINE AND SHADOW 299
four on each side, and they sang a hymn to welcome
her, and all the men and women cheered and clapped
their hands and bent down their heads to greet her,
as is the way to greet Kings, When she reached her
chair she sat down, right in the centre, the King's
chair being beside her. After this there entered the
lords of great honour ; the Earl Marshal also came,
and then after a short interval the King, between two
Bishops, one on his right — that of Canterbury, and one
on his left — that of York, and the King between them,
and they all walked very slowly indeed. The King's
train was carried by eight pages, four on each
side, " When he reached the centre we all who were in
the building cheered very much, and they played on all
the instruments, the singers sang, the flutes were blown,
they played the violins and beat all the drums and
clapped the cymbals, and the people clapped their
hands and the whole building boiled over and resounded
and vibrated ; and he who had but one eye would have
liked two, and he who had two would have Hked four
that he might see better than he could with two, though
of course you cannot add any part to the body that you
have not got,
" When the King had sat in his chair he first prayed
to God to give him strength in this great ceremony
of taking possession of his country. After he had
again sat down the work of the Bishops began, and
the Archbishop of Canterbury prayed ; after he had
prayed he read the questions, asking the King if he
would rule aright, and the King replied as is the custom,
and they brought a book for him to swear on, and the
Archbishop made him swear, as all kings swear, and
they brought him a pen to sign his name, and he did
all these things. He then left the chair in which he

300 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI,
had been sitting and went to that in which he was to
be crowned and anointed with oil. This throne had
a magnfficent back to it, and ornaments of gold like
doves, " After they had sung a hymn he sat down and they
anointed him, and the Archbishop prayed a short
prayer ; they then brought the crown on a silken
cushion and the Archbishop took it in his hands and
lifted it up, and asked, saying, ' This is the man whom
we wish to crown as king of this realm ; if any man
has anything to say against it let him speak," and
when no one spoke he put the crown on the King's
head. When he did this it was a wonderful sight,
for each of the peers took his coronet in his hands and
lifted it up, and when the crown rested on the head of
the King they all put on their coronets and cheered
with a loud voice, and the electric Hghts were turned
up all over the building and flashed out, and the organ
and violins and flutes and bugles and drums all sounded,
and the singers sang, and it was a marvellous thing ;
and one's hair stood on end on account of the exceeding
great glory ! "
And so the visit of the Katikiro and his friend to
England came to an end, and they returned to their
own country. They were not in the least spoilt by
all the attention shown to them, but greatly benefited
by their varied experience ; and this very largely
owing to the pains taken by Millar to explain the
meaning and use of everything which they saw not
only in England but during their travels.
The reception accorded to them on their return to
Mengo was of the most enthusiastic description. Thou
sands came out on the road to meet them and rent the
air with their congratulations, " The women," says
Ham Mukasa, " wept for joy," The Httle king sat

Chap, 43] SUNSHINE AND SHADOW 301
in his palace gate, and from time to time sent pages
fleet of foot running at full speed with his greetings
to the returning travellers. They would come and,
falling down at the feet of the Katikiro, would gasp out,
" Kabaka antumye okukulaba " (" The king has sent
me to see you"). "Kabaka atya 1 " ("How is the
king ? ") . " Gyah " (" He is weU ") . " Ng'enze " (" I am
going ") . " Omundabira " (" Greet him for me ") was the
rejoinder ; then at full speed the messengers return to
their master. Then the Katikiro in his turn sent his
men (speedy runners all of them) to salute the king in
like manner, and so with snow-white garments floating
in the air these messengers continued running to and
fro, until at length the Katikiro was in the king's
presence, and going down on his knees took him in
his arms.
Then came greetings from every side, the soldiers
saluting and the drums beating. The next day at
8 o'clock in the morning there was a thanksgiving
service in the new Cathedral, which was now approach
ing completion. Thus a journey to which all Uganda
had looked forward to with dread and apprehension
was brought to a successful and happy conclusion.
My own return to Uganda later in the year was
signalised by a great disaster. The new hospital, which
had only been in existence some eighteen months, was
struck by hghtning on the night of my arrival at
Entebbe, and completely destroyed (November 29th).
Happily there was no loss of hfe, but besides the loss
of the building some hundreds of pounds worth of
instruments and fittings were destroyed.
My host at Entebbe was Col. J. Hayes Sadler, the
new Commissioner. He at once despatched a telegram
of sympathy to Dr. Cook, and placed at his disposal
four hundred men to be employed in the erection of a

302 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
temporary hospital for the accommodation of the most
pressing cases.
It was a great satisfaction to me to find in the new
Commissioner one who (an accomplished linguist) had
already set himself to study the language, and also
as far as possible to enter into the difficulties of the
Baganda with a view to helping them to a solution
of many of their political and social problems.
So far Uganda had suffered for want of a consistent
and continuous policy. In the course of ten short
years no fewer than ten different men had held the
office either of Commissioner, Administrator, or Acting
Commissioner. Lugard, Wilhams, Portal, Macdonald,
Colville, Jackson, Berkeley, Ternan, G. Wilson, and
Johnston had in turn held the reins of office. One
man believed in personal rule, another, hke Mr. G,
Wilson, did his utmost to develop government through
the Lukiko or National Council, Allowed to run free
at one moment, and then at another, without rhyme
or reason, called to heel or led in a leash, may be a
tolerable method of training puppies ; but in deahng
with an intelligent people like the Baganda there could
be but one result — perplexity, disappointment, and
distrust. It was therefore with no little pleasure that the
Baganda saw Colonel Hayes Sadler studying their
language, and in a very short while conversing with
their chiefs on matters which touched most nearly
their best interests, and generally carrjdng on the
work of administration as though he had come to stay.
One of the most urgent matters with which the
new Commissioner found himself obliged to deal with
was the " sleeping sickness," which was now assum
ing alarming proportions. This terrible disease had
gradually been creeping eastward, from the basin of

Chap, 43] SUNSHINE AND SHADOW 303
the Congo, where for a number of years it had been
more or less endemic. The first to identify it on its
appearance in Uganda was Dr, A. R, Cook, in the
year 1901, At once the alarm was raised, and serious
investigations were immediately entered upon as to
its nature and origin — all of course with the object of
taking preventive measures, and, if possible, of dis
covering a cure. Hitherto it had been regarded as
an absolutely incurable disease. These investigations
have passed through three stages.
The first stage, so far as Uganda is concerned, was
with reference to the discovery of a micro-organism
called Filaria ferstans, found in the blood of nearly
every sleeping sickness patient. It was assumed, per
haps somewhat precipitately, that this minute creature,
belonging to the animal kingdom, was the cause of
the disease. Further investigation, however, showed
conclusively that such was not the case. In the mean
while a Commission organised by the Royal Society
in conjunction with H,M, Government had arrived
upon the scene of action. Laboratories were built at
Entebbe, and further research was at once entered
upon. Dr. Castellani, a member of the Commission,
entertained strong suspicion with regard to another
micro-organism belonging to the vegetable kingdom,
and called in honour of the discoverer, " streptococcus
CasteUanii." It was while studying the Hfe history and peculiarities
of this interesting stranger that Dr. Castellani's atten
tion was drawn to another organism of a worm-like
shape — one end bluntly conical, and the other, the
flagellum, very finely tapering. It was a trypanosoma
of very active habits, a creature Hke the Filaria
perstans belonging to the animal kingdom.
Later investigation has proved that this creature is

304 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
undoubtedly the cause of the disease popularly known
as " sleeping sickness." The symptoms of the disease
are many, and comparatively easy to be recognised.
The skin becomes dry and irritable, and patients are
continuaUy scratching themselves. The glands of the
neck become swoUen. A period of nervous excitement
often supervenes, foUowed by consequent exhaustion.
The final stage appears to be one of great drowsiness,
a symptom which gives the name to the disease.
Early m 1903 Colonel Bruce, R.A.M.C, who had
been lent to the Uganda Administration by the War
Office for special service, arrived upon the scene, and
by as brUhant a piece of inductive research as the
annals of science can show, discovered the means by
which this disease is conveyed. He found upon inquiry
that the sleeping sickness areas were more or less con
tiguous to water — the Lake shore, the islands, river
banks, and so forth. He found upon further investi
gation that a species of tsetse-fly caUed Glossina
palpalis flourished in these very regions. The signi
ficance of a map prepared under his direction was
apparent at the fiist glance. Red discs showed the
presence of sleeping sickness, blue ones that of the
tsetse-fly — the latter, of course, even more extensively
marked ; but it was found that the line of the one was
almost invariably foUowed by the line of the other,
the terrible red disc.
Specimens of Glossina palpalis were obtained from
the sleeping sickness areas, dissected, and examined
under the microscope. The ti'ypanosoma found in
the sleeping sickness patients was discovered in the
tsetse-fly. The conclusion was obvious, but not abso
lutely estabhshed. But fresh data were forthcoming.
Monkeys kept at the laboratories were fed upon by the
tsetse-fly, and in due course developed sleeping sick-

Chap. 43] SUNSHINE AND SHADOW 305
ness. Their history was the same in almost every
case — fever after a certain lapse of time, the tempera
ture chart showing invariably the same variations
and pecuharities. Thus was this most important fact
estabhshed, viz. the conveyance of sleeping sickness
infection by means of the tsetse fly.
Further research has demonstrated with tolerable
completeness and accuracy the course of the disease.
It has been found that a person bitten by an infected
fly may not show any signs of having been infected
for one, two, or even three years. But sooner or later
there comes a time when the glands swell, the skin
becomes dry, the fever manifest ; later the trypanosoma
passes from the blood, in which hitherto it has lived
and reproduced itself, into the cerebro-spinal fluid, and
so into the brain. The problem which medical science
is at present setting itself to solve is whether this Hving
micro-organism can be destroyed before this passage
takes place. Arsenic has been largely used, but so far
without effect. The latest experiment to be tried is
that with Atoxyl, a preparation of arsenic. Some
remarkable cases of apparent cure have resulted, but
so far they have not stood the test of time, and there is
a growing feeling among scientists that a remedy wiU
have to be sought elsewhere.
In the meanwhUe the ravages wrought by this fell
disease have been appaUing. The islands have been
almost depopulated. Kome, which at one time was
said to have a population of 10,000, has hardly 500
souls left. The fishermen on the Lake shores have
become practically an extinct race. South Busoga
has suffered even more than Uganda. Nanyumba's
country has been more than decimated ; whUe Wakoh's,
formerly the very garden of Busoga, is now a howhng
wilderness. n. u

306 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
A sad and solemn experience is it indeed to travel
through the infected areas. Gardens fallen out of
cultivation and overgrown with weeds, houses in
ruins, deserted churches, all ahke tell the same tale
of sorrow, sickness, and death. The frenzied ravings
of the sick ones, the death-wail of the mourners, the
uncanny croaking of birds of prey — the vulture and
the carrion crow wheehng hither and thither in the
sunny atmosphere above, which seems to mock the
sadness and sorrow below — the night howl of the
hyena prowling in search of the dead — all deepens
the impression that the Angel of Death is in very truth
hovering over the land, so that (to use a memorable
phrase), " You can almost hear the fluttering of his
wings." One of the most important measures adopted by
the new Commissioner (Colonel Hayes Sadler) was to
enlist the co-operation of the chiefs in the diffusion
of information as one of the best means of preventing
the spread of the disease. But the facts were long
in winning their way. You might tell the people in
minutest detail the facts of the tsetse-fly theory, in the
hope that they might avoid the infected areas, but
even as you told them your hearers would regard you
with a pitjdng smile. " Why, all the world knows,"
they would tell you, " that it was by contact you got
the disease, and if you only touched a sleeping-sickness
patient you must get it yourself." However, the truth
has now slowly penetrated the mental retina, and there
is a much more intelHgent apprehension of the real
state of the case. Another measure adopted by the
Commissioner was to lay upon the chiefs the responsi
bility of seeing that sleeping-sickness patients were
not allowed to wander about the country as they
pleased ; the dangers, of course, being that other fly

Chap. 43] SUNSHINE AND SHADOW 307
areas might become infected. It became the duty of
the chief to house such unhappy homeless wanderers,
and if possible return them to their own people.
The latest measure adopted has been the removal of
the whole population of the infected areas — the de
struction of all the deserted houses, in order to prevent
the return of their former occupants — and the formation
of camps in healthy districts for those found to be
actually suffering from the disease. These camps are
in charge of Government doctors, of whose kindly
sympathy with their patients, their untiring efforts
for their welfare, and their skilful treatment of their
charges it is impossible to speak too highly. It is
hoped that by these drastic measures the spread of
the disease may be checked, and the infected areas
in time become healthy again.
The bearing of all this terrible sickness and distress
upon our work has been very close and intimate, and
its effects disastrous in the extreme. On some of
the islands work has ceased altogether ; congregations
have been broken up and churches fallen into ruin.
On other islands, such as Sese and Bukasa, the work
has been continued, but under great difficulties and
with largely diminished congregations and classes.
The sombre tones of the deep, dark gloom which
now for seven years has been hanging over Uganda
has, however, been relieved from time to time by bright
gleams of light. The noble heroism of many of our
Christian teachers and evangehsts who have continued
at their work (at the risk of their Hves, and who in
some cases have fallen victims to the disease) can never
be forgotten. As Carlyle says, " It is not to taste sweet
things, but to do noble and true things, and vindicate
himself under God's heaven as a God-made man, that
the poorest son of Adam dimly longs. Show him the

308 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
way of doing that, the dullest day drudge kindles into
a hero." Thus it has been in Uganda. It was so in
the early days — the days of Mwanga's persecutions.
It is so to-day in this hour of sore trial, sickness, suffer
ing, and death. The martyr spirit is not dead in
Uganda, as the foUowing incident testffies.
" Some few months ago I was officiating in the
Cathedral at Mengo. The great congregation had
dispersed, and a large body of the communicants re
mained. Slowly the service proceeded, the profound
sUence broken only by the solemn words of administra
tion. The last communicants had returned to their
places, and I was about to close the service, when from
the extieme end of the buUding — a comer of the south
aisle, in which she had been sitting by herself — a woman
advanced slowly up the nave. I waited wonderingly.
As she took her place, kneeling alone at the raU, Harry
Wright Duta, who was assisting me, whispered in my
ear, ' It is Rakeri.' ' Rakeri ! ' In a moment her
story flashed through my mind, and with heart uphfted
in praise to God, and with a voice Ul controUed through
the emotion that weUed within, I administered to her
the emblems of the dying love of Our Lord and Saviour
Jesus Christ. Slowly and with dragging footsteps she
returned to her place, and with the Gloria in Excelsis
and the Benediction the service came to an end.
" Now who was Rakeri (Rachel) ? She was a
woman connected with the congregation at Ngogwe,
near the shores of the Great Lake. Some time pre
viously it had been told at a meeting of Christians
how that on a certain island sleeping sickness had
broken out, and that the people were dying in large
numbers without any one to teach them the way to
salvation. This so touched the heart of Rakeri, who
was present, that she volunteered to go and teach the

Chap. 43] SUNSHINE AND SHADOW 309
women and chUdren. She was warned. She was told
of the perU. It would be at the risk of her Hfe. In
fection meant death. There was no cure. Nothing
could tum heri from her purpose. ' I know aU this,'
she said. ' Those people are dying and know nothing
of Christ, the Saviour of the world ; I know and love
Him, and must go and teU them of Him.' She went,
and after a whUe came back and told how she had
been enabled to lead one and another to the feet of
the Saviour ere they passed into the unseen world.
" She returned to her post. A few more months
passed by, and then came the news that she was Ul.
She was brought back and carried up to the hospital
at Mengo, where Dr. Cook, having examined her, pro
nounced the fatal verdict ' sleeping sickness.' She
Hved for some months in the hospital under the doctor's
care, and dicing the whole of that time, as long as she
could move about, she was as a ministering angel to
the sick ones in the women's ward. She woidd go
from bed to bed, reading with this one and praying with
that one, soothing aU in their pain as far as she was
able, and ever seeking with loving words and tender
pleading to lead them to the feet of the Saviour. And
aU the whUe she was a dying woman.
" It was during this time of comparative strength that
Rakeri came to the communion service in the Cathedral
(which is quite close to the hospital), as I have already
told. She sat in that distant comer aU alone, because
she knew that people would shrink away from her
as they would shrink from contact with death itself.
" I saw her once again. It was the last day of her
Hfe. She was lying on her bed in the women's ward.
The fatal slumber was upon her. ' The Bishop has
come to see you,' said the doctor. Her eyehds fluttered
for a moment as though she understood, and then she

310 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VL.
feU back into slumber once more. I could but whisper
in her ear the blessing of God the Father, the Son,
and the Holy Ghost — and so she passed to her rest
and her reward."
Where in the whole history of the Christian Church
is there to be found a nobler instance of self-sacrificing
love ? " Greater love hath no man than this, that a
man lay down his Hfe for his friends."

CHAPTER XLIV
from utmost EAST TO UTMOST WESl
' Watchman, what of the night ?
The night clouds break away ;
On the far mountains streaks of light
Foretell the spring of day.'
E. H. Bickersteth.
The year 1903 opened sadly. Two of our workers
were taken from us by death — Mrs. Bond, with startling
suddenness, and H. Farthing, from black- water fever.
The former was on her way to Toro with her husband,
Dr, Bond, and died only two days journey from Mengo,
The latter, who had been working very happily in
Bunyoro, died at Hoima, Such workers could ill be
spared at such a time of rapid development in our
work. However, we could but bow in humble sub
mission before Him who can never err, and thank Him
for the wonderful health which the Mission as a whole
had hitherto enjoyed.
The year so sadly entered upon was perhaps, of all
the years of my service in Uganda, the busiest. Travel
hng was its main feature. Eight months out of the
twelve I spent] in my tent. It was truly a case of " in
journeyings often." Ngogwe, Mitiana, Nakanyonyi,
and Ndeje were in turn visited, and an aggregate of
774 candidates confirmed. Fever, however, dogged my
footsteps as I went on from one place to another ;
and although it was a time of great joy on account of
the large ingathering of souls visible on every hand.

312 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
it was also a time of great physical weakness and
trial. But notwithstanding aU this three great journeys
were accomphshed in the course of the year. The first
was to Toro, for which I started in company with Dr.
Bond on March 3rd, traveUing by way of Bunyoro.
It was a weary journey from first to last. The heat
at times was intense and very trying. How one dreaded
the endless succession of hills— the steamy plains— the
stffiing atmosphere in the long grass ! And how one
longed for some sign of the camping place— a banana
plantation or some thatched rest-house by the road
side ! Then the restless night— the silence broken now
and again by the whining howl of the hyena or the
bark of the wild fox ; and how one longed for the day
and yet dreaded it ! And then the cold, cheerless camp
in the early morning — in the darkness before dawn,
when one tried to swallow some breakfast without any
appetite for it ; how one dreaded that, too ! and yet it
was a part of the daily programme and had to be gone
through. In Bunyoro my mule, which hitherto I had been
riding, fell lame, and I was obhged to take to a hammock.
In this I was carried into Kabarole, the capital of Toro,
on March 21st. On the 25th, 269 candidates were
confirmed, and six days later 132 more, making a total
of 401 — a wonderful token of the progress of the work.
On April 1st I started on the return journey to Mengo,
still feehng terribly weak and unable to walk more
than a few yards. However, as the days passed by
I gradually grew better, and on reaching Mengo on
the 14th, had regained a fair measure of health and
strength. The next two months were occupied in a series of
local engagements — confirmation services, a ladies con-

Chap, 44] FROM EAST TO WEST 313
ference, and on June 7th (Trinity Sunday) an ordina
tion service, when seven natives and three Europeans
were ordained. The way was now clear for a long-
contemplated journey to Mount Elgon, where Crabtree
and his devoted wife were at work. On June 9th I
started with Dr, and Mrs. A. R. Cook on an expedition
which involved at least 500 mUes of travel.
Our programme included visits to all our stations
in Busoga, and that at Kisalizi near Mruli in the north
of the kingdom of Uganda. By this time one's health
was re-estabhshed, and the daily journey, instead of
being a toU, was a very real pleasure. Busoga was
famihar ground, but on reaching the great river swamp
— the Mpologoma — new country fuU of interest was
entered upon.
The passage of the Mpologoma was no light task.
Our caravan consisted of some fifty men and boys,
seven head of cattle, two mules, half-a-dozen sheep
and goats, and some forty loads. " Dug-out " canoes
were the only method of transport. The ferry-men —
if it be not an Irishism to say so — were women, and
they worked with a will. In rather less than three
hours everything was upon the further shore. Writing
at the time, I thus describe this great swamp, which
is reaUy a backwater of the NUe overgrown with
papyrus : —
" A narrow channel some half-dozen yards wide,
opening out at intervals into stretches of open water
fifty or sixty yards wide, was the main feature of the
Mpologoma at our point of passage. Dense masses of
papyrus Hned this channel on either side, and seemed
to be almost limitless in their vast extent. LUies of
white and azure blue dotted the water on every hand.
The chmbing convolvuli, twining themselves in and
about the stems of the papyrus, gave a fairy-like aspect

314 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI,
to the whole scene. But what perhaps was more striking
and impressive than anything else in this weird voyage
was the presence of a floating population on this waste
of waters. Here and there the papyrus had been cut
down and laced together untU something Hke a floating
platform had been made. Sticks from the shore had
been laid upon this, and then earth beaten into the
consistency of mud had been spread until a surface
impervious to fire had been formed. Upon the floating
platform huts had been built, which at the time of our
visit were inhabited by some of the people employed
in paddhng our canoes, and who apparently eked out
a precarious living by fishing. One's heart went out
in pity and sympathy towards them. Their life in
such circumstances must of necessity be one of ex
treme hardship if not of actual peril. The opening up
of the country wiU no doubt mitigate in time their
hard lot, and a few years will probably see this race of
lake-dwellers in happier circumstances, some of them
by the grace of God rejoicing in the knowledge of
Christ as their God and Saviour." The onward
journey was through Budaka, where Chadwick and
Buckley had been working untU the break-down of
the former through fever, then on to Nabowa, where
we got our first view of Mount Elgon, the goal of our
journey. The atmosphere was somewhat hazy, but at
the same time so free from clouds that the whole range
was visible from end to end. The highest point, 15,000
feet above sea-level, was in full view, and free from the
snow with which at certain seasons of the year it is not
infrequently clad. Elgon is a noble mass, majestic in
outhne and solemn in the signfficance of its isolation,
as guardian -like it seems to watch over the low-lying
lands of Kavirondo and Bukedi. Clouds commenced
to gather and chng to the summit, soon to hide it from

¦¦I UN ¦iM,i, ,'i<) >i I i.v.WMu'ii v.. \'i\i()'i()'i(),ii\! .nM, NO :r.,ioii 'inii\'oi,.| v

Chap. 44] FROM EAST TO WEST 315
view as we left the crest of the hiU of Nabowa and
continued our journey to Masaba.
As we drew near to our destination it was clear that
the news of our coming had preceded us. Groups of
natives almost entirely nude crowned every ant-hill.
Outside every cluster of huts by the wayside men,
women, and children were gathered to see us pass by.
" Mirembe, mirembe " (Peace, peace) was the saluta
tion which greeted us from time to time as we went
along. At length as we were descending a hill not far
from Masaba an incident happened which was some
what disturbing for the moment. A wild-looking man,
evidently in a most excited condition, rushed down
from a village not far from the road, and mounting an
ant-hill, proceeded to curse me and my fellow-travellers
with wild cries, evidently of abuse and vituperation,
at the same time flinging stones and sticks and clods
of earth at us.
This extraordinary outburst caused great excitement
among all on the hiUside, who were able to see and
hear what was going on, and from all sides men came
running towards us holding out their hands and shout
ing, " Mirembe, mirembe." I took in the situation in
a moment. The man who was so vigorously cursing
us was a madman. The people, alarmed at his violence,
were rushing together to assure us of their friendliness,
and to beg us to take no notice of the actions of an
irresponsible lunatic. I responded with loud shouts
of " Mirembe, mirembe," which were echoed and re
echoed on every side, and so we passed on our way,
and at noon arrived at our destination, Masaba.
In a previous chapter I have alluded to the plant
ing of this mission among the wild Bagishu at the close
of the year 1899, For nearly four years the Crabtrees
had now been at work, and the result was visible on

316 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
every hand. Tender care of the sick had won the
hearts of the people, and the httle church crowded on
Sunday, and the classes gathering day by day during
the week, were an earnest of an ingathering by-and-by.
Crabtree had done a notable linguistic work. The
first reading-book, a hymn-book, prayer-book, a book
of Bible stories of some one hundred pages, aU most
beautifuUy printed, told of unsparing effort both in
teUectual and physical. Two Gospels had been trans
lated, and would soon be pubhshed. All this was,
indeed, good news. It told us that after years of
intense desire and earnest prayer the language of the
Bantu-speaking Kavirondo people had been reduced
to writing, and that the Word of God was in the way
of being placed in their hands.
An ascent of a shoulder of Mount Elgon caUed Nkoko
Njeru (the "White Fowl "), the summit of which was
8500 feet above sea-level, concluded our visit to
Masaba, and on July 1st we made our way to Mbale,
some eight mUes away, where Kakungulu, the great
Uganda chief, whom I have more than once mentioned,
had settled himself. It was a great surprise to find
what a wonderful impression he had made upon the
wUd waste on which he and his people had settled
some three or four years before. He had indeed made
" the wUderness and the sohtary place to rejoice and
blossom as the rose," Broad roads, weU-buUt houses,
cultivated gardens, neat and trim fences, aU told of
tmsparing effort and brave perseverance in the face of
immense difficulties, A church had been buUt, and
regular services were being carried on by Andereya
Batulabude, a native pastor from Uganda, As we
looked around upon this remarkable colony of Baganda,
with its population of something Hke a thousand souls,
we could not but speculate as to its possible influence

Chap. 44] FROM EAST TO WEST 317
upon the tribes around. A silent influence there could
not but be : for as Owen Meredith has said —
' No life can be pure in its purpose and strong
In its strife and all life not be
Purer and stronger thereby.'
And most of these Baganda were Christians ; and
what influence can equal that of the true Christian ?
" Ye are the light of the world — ye are the salt of the
earth," said the Master Himself. Here, thought we
to ourselves as we looked upon these Baganda, is an
instrument ready to hand for the evangelisation of
the peoples around. Why should they not be the
evangelists to win these souls for Christ ? Alas ! upon
inquiry we foimd that little or nothing had been done
towards reaching them. Whether it was that being
" at grips," so to speak, with the forces of nature,
batthng with the wilderness for means of subsistence,
they had Httle time or energy left for evangehstic
work, one cannot say ; the fact, however, was clear
that nothing had been done. However, we called the
principal Christians together and set the matter before
them, and it was cheering to see the immediate response
to our appeal. The fact was, they needed a leader to
suggest and inspire as well as control. He apparently
was lacking. We promised, however, on our return
to Uganda to send them one.
On July 3rd, in order to get some much-needed rest
for Dr. and Mrs. Cook, who had been incessantly at
work among the sick, we visited one of the numerous
waterfaUs to be found on Mount Elgon. The day was
bright and sunny and we hoped to see everything
under its most lovely aspect. Our anticipations were
more than fuffilled. Waters sparkling with dazzhng
brightness as they rushed down the mountain-side.

318 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
and trees glittering with brightest sunlight, contrasted
vividly with the purple of the deep shadows of ravines,
wild and rugged, up which we wound our way, led by
one of Kakungulu's men as guide.
The hill-dweUers, whose huts were clustered here
and there on the steep mountain-side, were very shy
and suspicious of us. What were we doing chmbing
the mountain ? What could our object be ? Could
it be aught else than war ? That we were going to see
a waterfall would be the very last thing that would
occur to them. Our guide, however, was able now
and again to catch sight of a native in hiding on the
farther side of a ravine, and tried by loud shouts to
reassure him as to our peaceful intentions, inviting
him and his friends to come over to us. But it was
all in vain. At length the thunder of the falls of which
we were in search broke upon our ears and told us
that we had almost reached our destination. Gradually
the subdued murmur of running waters was added to
the medley of sounds which filled our ears, and then
the full glory of the scene burst upon our view,
Down from the edge of a mighty crag some four
hundred feet or more above us there leapt into space
a volume of water which as it fell quivered and broke
into fan-like masses of spray, upon which the prismatic
colours seemed to dance in the ever-varying play of
their splendour, ' Oh, it was an unimaginable sight.'
Earth, air, sky, and water seemed to combine in fashion
ing a scene almost indescribable in its mysterious
charm and fairy-hke beauty.
Sketch-book and camera were soon brought to bear
upon what was before us ; but, alas ! how inadequate

WATERKALL ON MOUNT ICLGON

Chap, 44] FROM EAST TO WEST 319
were they to convey even a faint idea of a scene so full
of exquisite grace,
Mutterings of distant thunder warned us that a
storm was brewing. Hastily packing up our luncheon
basket, we made the best of our way down the rugged
mountain-side. As we reached our mules the tempest,
which for a while had been raging not far away, burst
upon us in all its fury, and
' Loud and long the thunder roUed,'
while floods of rain very soon drenched us to the skin.
However, half-an-hour's rapid riding brought us to
our tents. Hardly had we changed into dry clothing
when a young lad was carried into our camp apparently
Hfeless, He had just been struck by Hghtning on the
very road over which we had so lately passed. An
examination by the doctor soon showed that
' The strife was o'er — the pangs of Nature closed.'
From Mbale we went on our way, re-crossing the
Mpologoma to Busoga. After spending a quiet Sunday
at Iganga we took the road to Kamuli, where Allen
Wilson and Davies were at work. Greatly cheered
by the evident tokens of the progress visible on every
hand — sixty-seven men and women offering themselves
for Confirmation, one hundred and six communicants
on the Sunday gathering around the Table of the Lord —
we continued on Monday, July 20th, our journey to the
Nile. The ferry was only two and a half hours from
Kamuli, so that we were on the river-bank early in the
day. Two miserably small and cranky canoes were
all that were available for the transport of some fifty
men, together with loads, sheep, goats, mules, and
cattle. The whole day was occupied with the work

320 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
of transport, and when night came several of the cows
were stiU on the east bank.
From the NUe we went on our way through Bulon-
donganyi to the Sezibwa river. The journey was in
many respects a sad one. Large gardens, once the
scene of busy hfe, we found almost deserted. Houses
were faUing down, fences were in ruins, weeds and wUd
undergrowth were choking the Hfe out of the banana-
trees. The cause of this widespread ruin was not, as
we supposed at first, the sleeping sickness, but a tiny
fly called " embwa " (dog). Its venomous bite causes
exquisite pain, and ultimately sores of the most serious
character, often dangerous to hfe, and certainly de
structive to health and vigour. Our brief experience
of this pest led us to wonder how any one able to leave
a district so infested could possibly remain to endure
such torments as are infficted by this tiny creature.
The Sezibwa river we found weU bridged, and its
passage only occupied something hke a quarter of an
hour ; but the Lwajah, which to our dismay had over
flowed its banks, was more than a mile wide, and the
only means of crossing were by two dug-out canoes,
both with large holes in their bottoms. In my diary
I find the foUowing account of the way in which the
problem of crossing the river in these circumstances
was solved : —
" Our native guides decided that out of these two
useless vessels (the dug-outs) one whole canoe might
be made. With great energy and resourcefulness they
set to work, and brought a native forge down to the
water's edge, where one of the canoes was already
lying. Iron spikes were made red-hot, and with them
holes were bored in the sound wood, round the great
hole in the bottom of the canoe. Then a large piece of
wood was cut out of the other boat, and holes bored

Chap. 44] FROM EAST TO WEST 321
with the red hot spikes round the edge. The patch
thus prepared was sewn with fibre to the bottom of
the canoe to be restored. The holes and cavities were
then caulked and plugged, and the boat was ready for
service." Whilst waiting for the repair of the canoe we were
witnesses of a very remarkable incident. A native,
who knew well the river bed and had exceptionally
good lungs, offered to carry any porter across on his
shoulders who would pay him thirty coAvrie shells (one
penny). The offer was accepted. The porter mounted
and was carried for a short distance through com
paratively shallow water until the main stream of
the river was reached. Deeper and deeper went the
man with his load until he was completely submerged.
The porter was well above the flood, but the man
carrying him had disappeared completely from view.
In this way the two went forward, the one beneath the
surface of the water and the other riding upon his
shoulders. As the river bed shelved upward on the
further side, the man who was carrying his fellow
came into view and received his thirty cowrie shells.
It was a wonderful exhibition of strength and en
durance. Later he carried several loads over for ten
shells each, walking beneath the surface of the water,
but holding the load upon his hands high above his
head, which was of course invisible.
Embarking in the renovated canoe, we made our
way very slowly through the shallow water until we
came to the main stream, where our progress was
much more rapid. Ultimately we landed upon an
ant-hill in the middle of a waste of waters, while our
canoe went back for the mules and loads. Anxiously
we watched load upon load being put into the canoe,
whUst every vacant place was filled by porters de-
II X

322 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
sirous of crossing. With difficulty the overladen boat
was pushed off, and as she got into the deep water
an incautious movement on the part of one of the
porters brought about the catastiophe for which we
were aU looking, and over she went. HappUy the
cargo consisted mainly of tent loads, and not boxes
of provisions or wearing apparel. They were aU re
covered, and the men managed to scramble back to
the bank, none the worse for their involuntary bath.
On our mules reaching us we determined to ride
through the half mUe of water which lay between us
and dry land. This we did without difficulty, and by
five o'clock we were aU comfortably encamped on the
crest of the hUl on which we had been gazing for many
hours with longing eyes.
A five days journey stffi lay between us and Kisalizi.
The rains had apparently been heavy, and we found so
much water in the swamp and roads that going was
anything but easy. However, we won our way through,
and on arriving at our destination received a very
warm welcome from the Christians who came out in
large numbers on the road to greet us. We were
dehghted with what we saw of the work. The schools
were flourishing, the classes thronged, the teachers in
earnest, and the scholars eager. On Sunday no fewer
than 960 souls came together for the worship of God.
Of these 106 were Communicants. Fifty-seven men
and women were presented to me for Confirmation.
Dr. and Mrs, Cook had their hands fuU in ministering
to the sick, who came in large numbers for treatment.
Having spent five days in this happy work we started
on August 3rd for Mengo, tiaveUing by way of Luwero
and Ndeje, At each of these latter places there was a
full programme of work. At the former eighty-one
candidates were confirmed, at the latter one hundred

Chap, 44] EAST TO WEST 323
and fifty-seven. This practically brought our tour to
a conclusion, and on August 11th, after nine weeks
absence, we found ourselves once more at Mengo.
A busy six weeks in and around the capital followed
the conclusion of this highly successful journey. Then
came preparations for a visit to Nkole, in the far west.
Dr. J. H. Cook, who was anxious for a medical itinera
tion, was my travelling companion in this, the third
great journey of the year.
Having in a previous chapter described a similar
journey to Nkole and Toro, it will be unnecessary to
do more now than to touch briefly upon the main
incidents of an expedition which was an almost un
qualified success from first to last. Leaving Mengo
on September 22nd, and travelling by way of Kasaka
and Kajuna, we arrived in Koki on October 7th, and
received a very warm welcome from the king, chiefs,
and people alike. At the stations through which we
passed on our way I had been enabled to confirm 193
candidates, and the doctor had prescribed for large
numbers of sick and impotent folk. In Koki we were
both for the several days of our stay as busy as we
could well be.
Only by one untoward incident was our visit marred.
It was in this wise. On Saturday the 10th I had just
concluded a Confirmation service in the church, and
being anxious to make an inquiry of Miss Robinson,
who was assisting Dr, Cook in the dispensary hard
by, I made my way thither. It was a wattle and daub
building thatched with grass in which I found them at
work. In one of the two large rooms into which the
building, somewhat old and decayed, was divided,
were a number of sick people awaiting treatment. In
the other the doctor was at work with his drugs and
instruments. Hardly had I entered into conversation

324 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
with Miss Robinson than I noticed that the poles and
beams supporting the roof were in motion. " The
house is coming down," I shouted, and flung myself
upon the ground. It was one's only chance. Escape
through the doorway was impossible. That was
blocked by people trying to escape from the next
room. To remain standing was simply to be crushed
to the earth and to death with a broken spine. But
lying upon the ground there was some hope that as the
timbers came down they might shield one in some way
or another from suffocation by the heavy thatch above.
It was but a moment, and one was down, and all was
darkness and silence. Then after a while, how long
it is impossible to say, one was conscious that efforts
were being made to rescue us. Voices were heard and
gleams of light became visible, and then a Hfting of the
timbers. Dark hands soon laid hold upon me, and I
was dragged out into the light of day, my arms being
nearly pulled out of their sockets in the process. In
a moment or two one was able to take in one's surround
ings, and to realise that a great peril had been escaped
absolutely without injury.
But how about Miss Robinson and Dr. Cook ? They
were still, I found, beneath the ruins of the house at
which a hundred men were at work. A few anxious
minutes passed by, and then first Miss Robinson and
then Dr. Cook were dragged out from among the debris
— the former uninjured, and as calm and cool as though
nothing had happened, the latter with a somewhat
severe bruise upon his shoulder caused by a faUing
beam. It was a marvellous escape from serious injury,
if not from death. One poor fellow I was sorry to
hear was suffering from a fractured skull, but before
leaving Koki we were glad to learn that he was doing
well.

Chap. 44] FROM EAST TO WEST 325
What had brought about this catastrophe 1 It was
in this way. When I left the church at the conclusion
of the Confirmation service, I was followed by the
greater part of the male members of the congregation,
and as I entered the dispensary large numbers crowded
on to the baraza, in order to get the shelter of the
verandah from the heavy rain which was falling. The
pressure of this great crowd was too much for the
stability of the old and decayed house in which the
doctor was at work, and over it went.
A five days journey brought us to Mbarara, the
capital of Nkole, where on Sunday, October 18th, I
had the great joy of confirming the king and the Prime
Minister (Katikiro), as well as seventy-eight other can
didates. What a contrast was that day with the one
of four years before, when we sat in front of our tents
surrounded by a horde of savages with their wizards
and witch doctors, and strove to gain an entrance into
the country for the Gospel of Christ ! What could
we but exclaim, " What hath God wrought," as we
reahsed the wonderful change which had come to pass
in so short a time.
On October 21st we took the road to Toro, where we
arrived some eight days later in company with Dr.
Bond and Maddox, who had come out as far as Esungu
to meet us. A busy five days foUowed, and then once
more we were on the road, bound for Mengo, where
with the good hand of our God upon us we arrived on
November 17th, having accomphshed a journey of
well-nigh five hundred miles in something like eight
weeks ; in the course of which I had held nine Con
firmation services, and confirmed no fewer than 751
candidates. This was the third great journey of the
year brought to a happy and successful conclusion.
In looking back over these weeks and months of

326 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
travel in which some 1500 miles were covered, one
was filled with gratitude and thankfulness to God for
all His many mercies and loving kindnesses. Pre
served from sickness, dangers, by the way, road, swamp,
and river ; permitted to see wonders of grace in souls
brought out of darkness into the marvellous Hght of
the Gospel of Christ ; privileged to have a part and
share in the carrying out of God's gracious purposes
of love — for all this and much, very much more, one
could but humbly thank and praise Him who
' Such wondrous things had done.'

CHAPTER XLV
POSSIBILITIES AND OPPORTUNITIES
' All our natural endowments, all our personal histories, all
our contrasted circumstances, are so many opportunities for
peculiar work.' — Bishop Westoott.
In looking back over the past history of the Church
in Uganda, we notice that certain periods stand out
beyond others, marked with very special features of
significant interest. At one time extension is the
special characteristic, at another consolidation. At
another it may be declension, at another evangelistic
zeal, and so on. The period upon which we have now
entered is distinguished by a great advance in educa
tional work, I have already alluded to the efforts
made in 1898 to place our educational work on a better
footing by enlisting the help and sympathy of chiefs
and parents alike in the education of their dependents
and children. The success of our efforts was most
marked ; for whereas in 1898 the children under in
struction were only to be numbered by a few hundreds,
at the close of 1903 no fewer than 22,000 were being
gathered day by day into our primary schools. At
the time of writing this number has grown to nearly
32,000, But so far little or nothing had been done for the
children of the upper classes, who in many respects
were worse off than the children of the peasantry.
They were rarely brought up by their parents. They
were in consequence neglected, out of hand and
S27

328 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI,
aUowed to run almost wild. We felt strongly that if
the ruhng classes in the country were to exercise in the
days to come an influence for good upon their people,
and have a sense of responsibihty towards them, it
was absolutely essential that something should be done,
and that speedily, for the education of these neglected
children on the soundest possible hnes.
It appeared to Mr. Hattersley, who was in charge of
the primary school in Namirembe, that if anything
effectual was to be done in the way of moulding their
characters and fashioning their hves, with a view
to their bearing bravely the responsibihties and dis
charging faithftUly the duties of their chieftainships,
it could only be in a boarding-school, where we could
have them in our own hands, so to speak, during the
greater part of the year. With his usual resourceful
ness he devised a plan by which such a school should
be self-supporting. It was to be on the " House "
system, say twenty boys in a house under a house
master (native). The houses were to be built by the
parents themselves, each of whom should have a right
to nominate one pupU in perpetuity. But besides the
cost of building the house, which was thus divided
among the parents of the boys, each parent or guardian
became responsible for the maintenance of the boy
nominated. The scheme " caught on " at once. First
one house and then another was built, until now, at
the time of writing, there are one hundred and forty
boys in the school, each of whom is either a chief who
is a minor, or the son of a chief. The school is known
as the " Mengo High School,"
It wiU easUy be realised what an influence for good
such a school is hkely to have upon the future of the
country. God-fearing men, well taught, with a sense
of responsibility towards their dependents, will we trust

Chap. 45] POSSIBILITIES— OPPORTUNITIES 329
take the places which were only too frequently occupied,
in the days gone by, by ignorant, unscrupulous, and
vicious ruffians. A unifying influence too will also,
we believe, be brought to bear upon the diverse ele
ments of which the Uganda Protectorate is very largely
made up. At the present moment we have in the
school young chiefs from Busoga and Uganda, as well
as members of the royal famihes of Toro, Nkole, and
Bunyoro. These young lads, living together, taught
together, sharing the same joys and sorrows, bearing
the same punishments, joining in the same games ; in
fact, hving a common life, imbibing the same ideals,
and serving the same Lord and Master, cannot but be
knit together in a common bond of friendship and
good will. Racial antipathies and jealousies will be
forgotten, and a godly rivalry in whatsoever things
are honest, just, pure, lovely, and of good report, will
take their place. And so it will come about that the
divisions which hamper and hinder the development of
the Protectorate will, to a large extent, disappear, and
union with all its beneficent results will take their
place. It was with very much the same idea in our minds,
coupled with a conviction that university education
must sooner or later find place in any well-devised
scheme for the intellectual training of the Baganda,
that early in 1903 we planned a school for " Inter
mediate education." A. G. Eraser, who was the prime
mover in the scheme, was obliged on account of his
wife's health to return home. It was taken up, how
ever, by H. W. Weatherhead, who worked at it with
unbounded enthusiasm. A site was secured about
eight miles from Mengo, on the hill of Budo, intimately
bound up with the history of the kingdom of Uganda.
For many generations the kings of Uganda have, on

330 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
the summit of the hiU, gone through a ceremony
equivalent to Coronation. The king through his
regents having granted the site, the school has been
named " King's School." It has been founded on the
principle of self-support, the annual fees amounting
to about £7. The school buildings already completed
consist of three blocks — a fine school-room 50 feet by
30 feet, with class-rooms on each side, and three
dormitories on the cubicle system. To complete the
scheme we have to build a technical school, a gym
nasium, a chapel, and a sanatorium, besides another
dormitory. Our aim, as in the Mengo High School,
which is intended as a feeder to " King's School," is
not only to bridge over the gap between primary and
university education, but by the discipline of work
and games in a boarding-school so to build up char
acter as to enable the Baganda to take their proper
place in the administrative, commercial, and industrial
life of their own country.
It will be noticed, doubtless, that whilst describing
the educational advantages and facilities provided for
boys, nothing has been said about any provision for
the girls. They had not, however, been forgotten. It
would be worse than a mistake to neglect them. As a
well-known writer has said, " Men wiU always be what
women make them. If, therefore, you would have
men great and virtuous, impress upon the minds of
women what greatness and virtue are."
Since 1895, when the first party of lady workers
arrived in the country, womanly influence had been
brought to bear upon the children, and especiaUy the
young girls of Uganda. Many had learnt those lessons
which only women can teach. The degraded woman
hood of Central Africa could not but be the better,
and therefore the children the better for those years

Chap. 45] POSSIBILITIES— OPPORTUNITIES 331
of devoted service which had been so ungrudgingly
rendered since that day in October 1895, when Miss
Furley and her five fellow-workers arrived in Mengo.
That band of six single ladies had grown into one of
twenty at the close of 1903, whilst at the time of writing
the single and married ladies working in the Mission
number fifty-two. The work of this strong force has
had to do largely with the education of the girls, with
whom we are in contact at all our Mission centres, and
many native women teachers have been trained for
this same branch of work.
In the primary schools at the close of 1903 no fewer
than 7800 girls were under instruction, a number
which has increased so rapidly that it stands at the
present moment at 14,300. As in the case of the boys,
however, it was felt that a special effort should be made
to reach the girls of the upper class, and a boarding-
school on the same self-supporting lines as the Mengo
school was started for their benefit. It has attained
a large measure of success under the fostering care of
Miss A. L. Allen, and those who from time to time have
been associated with her. Similar schools are being
planned for the capitals of Toro and Bunyoro. Our
object in all this is not, as Ruskin says, " to turn the
woman into a dictionary," for we believe with him that
"it is of little consequence how many positions of
cities she knows, or how many dates of events or
celebrated persons," but it is deeply necessary that she
should make virtue lovely to children, and by her hfe
and bearing draw men to high and holy and heavenly
things. Whilst all the educational work was being planned
and brought into being, the silent process of extension
into the regions beyond were still working. The latest
move was into the Nile Valley, upon which we had long

332 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
had our eyes fixed, Lloyd at Hoima had come in
contact with a number of natives of the AchoH country,
who for a while were sojourning there, A young chief
named Ojigi had become greatly interested in our
teaching, and stiongly urged a visit to his country on
the further side of the NUe, He declared that the
Achoh people would welcome teachers and readUy place
themselves under instruction, Lloyd responded at once
and tmdertook a lengthened tour through the country,
visiting in tum a number of the principal chiefs. He
was deeply impressed both with the vastness of the
need and the greatness of the opportunity, and begged
me to go and see for myself how the land lay.
Early in 1904 the way seemed clear for a two months
absence from Mengo, and having first obtained the
sanction of the Commissioner, Colonel Hayes Sadler,
to whose kind sympathy and help the Mission owes
so much, I started on March Sth, in company with
Dr. and Mrs. A. R. Cook, for the Achoh country.
Space would faU me were I to attempt to teU in detaU
the story of this most interesting journey. I can only
roughly sketch its main features.
It was not the best time of the year for traveUing ;
the rains were upon us, and we had HteraUy each day
" to dodge " them. Sometimes we were caught, but
more often than not we escaped the drenching which
continuaUy threatened us. Eight days brought us to
Hoima and another two days to Masindi, where we
had a Saturday to Monday rest. Then on we went
again towards the NUe, untU a smart attack of fever
obhged me to rest for a couple of days. The passage
of the great river was successfuUy accomplished, and
on March 29th we arrived at Ojigi's viUage, where we
received a very warm welcome both from the chief
and his people.

A VILLAGE IN THE ACHOLI COUNTRY, NILE VALLEY

Chap. 45] POSSIBILITIES— OPPORTUNITIES 333
We were now in the midst of strange and unfamihar
sights and sounds. An unclothed people, speaking a
Nilotic dialect, was about us on every hand. The
men, and especially the young men, were generally
besmeared with grease. Those who had any pre
tensions to " smartness " were coloured with white
and red clay, and through the underhp was suspended
a long crystal, in some cases four and six inches long.
The " smarter " the individual the longer the crystal.
The hair too of the " smart " young man was done
up into fantastic shapes, into which were interwoven
feathers and other adornments. Among the women
too was a " smart set," with whom grease, beads,
and wire played a considerable part, but clothes were
distinctly a minus quantity. The married women
carried their babies on their backs suspended in a most
ingenious fashion, and shielded from the heat of the
sun by a capacious gourd.
The village was a collection of circular houses buUt
of mud, with granaries in the midst, and surrounded
in most cases by a " boma " of thorns and euphorbia.
A characteristic feature of the Achoh village was the
place of assembly. A roughly built shed without side
walls, filled with hewn and unhewn timber seats, con
stituted the parhament house of the village elders.
Here justice was administered, the gossip of the country
side retailed, cattle bought and sold, marriages arranged,
raids planned, and last but not least, beer drunk.
Another pecuhar feature of the Achoh vUlage was the
bachelor's house. It was generally raised some six or
eight feet above the ground, and was entered by a door
hardly larger than would enable a shm young man to
creep through. In this building the unmarried youths
of the village were required to sleep, whilst the ground
around was strewn with fine dust, or sand, in order to

334 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
detect the footprints of any youth so bold as to leave
it during the night.
We spent the best part of a week, including Easter
Day, at Ojigi's. It was a lovely spot where we were
encamped, a very paradise of beauty. A wonderful
panorama was spread out before us. Westward the
Bulega mountains, a hundred miles or more away, were
clearly visible. Northward the hills around Nimule
were in full view, whilst in the middle distance, wood,
rock, and river alternating in sunshine and shadow,
enchanted us with their ever varying beauty of colour,
of glowing and at times subdued light. The air was
fresh and invigorating, the nights cool and restful.
The crowds which daily thronged our camp added a
human interest to our stay, which never flagged from
first to last.
From what we had seen of the disposition of the
people, their friendliness, their earnest desire to be
taught, coupled with their evident degradation, one
felt that an opportunity was offered to us which ought
not to be neglected. But Ojigi's was hardly central
enough for a Mission station. We therefore journeyed
on to Patigo, some forty mUes away, where to the
great dehght of the chief, Bon AchoH, we decided to
settle. It was a position of strategic importance, if
considered in relation to the tribes north and east. It
was healthy and fairly populated.
While at Patigo the rainy season in all its fury burst
upon us. Never shall I forget the frightful storms
which daily assailed us. The floods of rain which poured
through our tents, the crashing thunder, the blazing
hghtning, the tornado-like wind which threatened
every moment to carry our tents away, were beyond
anything I had ever experienced even in the Tropics.
Sometimes one was aroused in the middle of the night

Chap. 45] POSSIBILITIES— OPPORTUNITIES 335
by the distant mutterings of thunder — one knew only
too well what it meant, a storm within half an hour or
so. There was nothing for it but to rise and dress,
and prepare oneself for the worst. Everything Hkely
to be damaged was packed away, blankets rolled up,
boys called to stand by the tent poles, pegs beaten into
the ground, and then sitting on one's bedstead one
awaited the onset. Sometimes it came gradually, but
not infrequently the storm would burst upon us suddenly
in all its fury. The tents would be lashed as by a
hundred whips, the poles would sway and bend, and
every moment one expected to see everything swept
away in the raging elements. Torrents of rain were
falling, and the pitchy darkness of the tent was
illumined from time to time by the glare of blazing
lightning, whilst one was nearly deafened by the
crashing of thunder compared with which the ex
plosion of a hundred-ton gun was as nothing.
It was generally with a sigh of relief that one noted
signs of the storm passing away, first a lessened strain
on the tent poles, then a less persistent beating of the
rain, the hghtning less vivid, and the thunder rolhng
away into the distance. The boys would then be dis
missed, the blankets unrolled, and one would seek to
forget in the oblivion of sleep the peril through which
one had so lately passed.
We stayed longer at Patigo than we intended, owing
to an attack of fever (spiriUum) from which Mrs. Cook
suffered, and which, recurring at regular intervals
during the remainder of our tour, was the source of no
little anxiety to us from time to time. However, on
April 13th we arrived at the viUage of a great chief
named Owin, some thirty miles away in a north
easterly direction. Achohland is pecuharly a cattle-
rearing country of roUing hills with rich pasturage.

336 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
But at Owin's the Borassus pahn made its appearance,
indicatmg a different geological formation. The herbage
was shorter than we had seen elsewhere, and goats in
consequence seemed much more numerous than cattle.
We were now in the neighbourhood of Sir Samuel
Baker's settlement of years ago, and paid a visit to its
ruins, which were fuU of the deepest interest. Although
exposed to years of tropical rain and sunshine, yet the
walls of the various houses and offices, which were once
full of busy Hfe, showed few signs of that disintegration
which seems to be the ultimate fate of all uncovered
buildings in Central Africa. But what was even of
greater interest than the sight of these ruins, was the
impression which we gathered had been left upon the
minds of these savage tribes by Sir Samuel and Lady
Baker in their intercourse with them. One felt proud
of one's feUow country people as one Hstened to the
tale of their goodness and kindness, and regretted that
the modern traveUer in Central Africa seems to think
more of heads and antlers than of hearts and souls.
It was with no Httle pride that a chief near Wadelai
brought out from its many wrappings a photograph
of Sir Samuel and his wife, which the latter, unforgetful
of years long passed away, had recently sent him. A
more eloquent testimony to the kindly relationship
existing between Sir Samuel and Lady Baker and the
savage tribes of Achohland than the production of
this photograph could hardly be imagined.
From Owin's we journeyed back to Bon AchoH's, and
then went on our way to Wadelai, where after some
delay in crossing the Aswa, which was in flood, we arrived
on AprU 26th. It had now been settled that Kitching,
who for several years had been working in Toro, was to
be associated with Lloyd in opening the new station at
Patigo. He had been sent for, and was expected in a

w?J<
>w

a
H

O
H

Chap. 45] POSSIBILITIES— OPPORTUNITIES 337
week or two. In the meanwhile Lloyd arranged to
await his arrival on the hills some ten or twelve miles
away, where it was decidedly more healthy than
Wadelai. On April 30th we went on our way towards Bunyoro,
re-crossing the Nile at Fajao, near the Murchison Falls,
with the grandeur of which we were very much im
pressed. Masindi and Hoima were reached in due
course, and on May 10th we found ourselves once more
at Mengo, after an absence of ten weeks, during which
we had covered something hke six hundred and fifty
miles, while Dr. Cook had treated over four thousand
sick folk. Thus was the expedition, which had been
planned with the object of opening up the Nile Valley,
brought to a happy and successful conclusion.
An event was now at hand to which we had long
looked forward with the greatest expectation and
interest — the consecration of the new Cathedral. It
was a remarkable structure built of brick, the founda
tions of burnt, the superstructure of sun-dried bricks.
It was cruciform in shape, with chancel, nave, and two
aisles. The roof, constructed of heavy hewn timbers,
was supported by a double row of round brick columns
with octagonal bases. The pointed arches of the
windows and doors harmonised with the pointed
arches which connected the columns together. Per
haps the most striking feature of the whole building
was the interior decoration of the roof, which was of
the most beautiful reed work to be seen in the country.
The yellow reeds were first washed and then polished,
after which they were cut to the required length, and
then laid side by side were tied with a dark-coloured
fibre in long parallel lines, and here and there with
varied designs. The whole effect was very striking,
and being entirely native, was the more interesting.
II Y

338 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
It would be difficult to describe the singularly
beautiful effect of the combination of brick and reed
work, more especially when the sun, streaming in
through the windows on to the red brick floor, threw
up into the yellow-reeded roof a flood of golden sun
shine. To witness a service of Holy Baptism at such
a moment, as I have often done, was to see a vision
which could never fade from heart or memory. The
whole building was suffused with a Hght and an
atmosphere which seemed to be more of heaven than
of earth.
June 21st was the day fixed for the ceremony of
consecration. It dawned bright and clear, and ere
the sun's rays had touched the golden vane of the
cathedral spire, crowds of men and women were climb
ing the hill of Namirembe in order to secure their places.
It mattered not that an hour or two must elapse before
the doors were opened, and then another hour or two
before the service commenced. Their places they felt
would be secure, and time was of no consequence to
them. By seven o'clock the hum of voices had
deepened into a roar which could be heard half a mile
away. At nine o'clock all were in their places, some
4500 inside the building and some 6000 outside. A
little later the king arrived with the Katikiro and the
great saza chiefs. Then came the Commissioner and
Mrs. Hayes Sadler and suite. A procession was formed,
and to the strains of " God Save the King," I had the
privilege of conducting His Majesty's representative to
his seat in the chancel, with the Kabaka on his left
and Mrs. Hayes Sadler at his right hand. Returning
to the vestry, the procession of clergy, nearly fifty in
number (native and European), made its way through
the dense throng of men and women who filled the
body of the church.

C;RAXARIES in a native village, NILE ^'ALLEY

Chap. 45] POSSIBILITIES— OPPORTUNITIES 339
It was a thrilling moment when, in the presence of
that vast throng, one stood up to pronounce the solemn
words of consecration, with these evident tokens of
God's blessing upon our work on every hand — the
beautiful cathedral in which we were met ; the vast
congregation which fiUed it, and its precincts ; that
body of clergy, native and European ; those evangelists
and teachers gathered from every part of the diocese.
And then how the roUing and reverberating tones of
the responses stirred one's soul to its very depths !
And the Amens, how they reminded one of what we
are told of the Christians of the primitive age — that
their Amens were Hke the roU of distant thunder.
In due time came the offertory, which was to be
given to the buUding fund. This fund was in native
hands entirely. Not a single halfpenny of Enghsh
money had been used in rearing that beautiful fabric
in which we were assembled ; and only one European,
Mr. Borup, who was in charge of our Industrial Mission,
had had anything to do with its construction. He had
superintended the work from the very beginning, and
it is safe to say that without his supervision the result
we saw on that 21st of June had been impossible.
But the offertory — how full of interest the scene was !
Scores of men, provided beforehand with large bags,
went slowly in and out among the white-robed throng
of men, and the mass of women in their beautiful terra
cotta-coloured bark-cloth dress. In a short whUe the
bags were fuU of cowrie sheUs (value one thousand to
a rupee, Is. 4d.) and brought to me as I stood at the
Holy Table. They were quickly refiUed and again
brought to me. This went on for some time, untU it
was clear that all in the church had given in their
offering. Then the sidesman went outside to gather
the offerings of the six thousand sitting patiently in

340 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
the sunshine. In the meantime other gifts were
being brought to me in the chancel — fowls (laid down
at the foot of the Communion Table), sugar-cane,
bananas ; then two goats were with difficulty led for
ward, which, after I had received, I asked might be
taken outside and tethered to a tree. Then it was
whispered to me that a number of cattle, whose lowing
was plaiffiy audible, were in the churchyard. " What
was to be done with them ? " " Oh ! don't bring
them in," I whispered hurriedly, with, I confess, a
certain amount of trepidation ; " let them remain out
side." StiU the work of coUecting went on, untU the
Communion Table could bear no more. Then a cloth
was spread on the floor in front of the table, on which
a huge pUe of shells was quickly reared. GraduaUy it
became apparent that aU had given in their gifts, and
half-fiUed bags told that the coUector's work was over.
The total amount of the collection was 1613 rupees
(including 90,000 cowrie shells), 36 cows and buUocks,
23 goats, 31 fowls, and 154 eggs, besides bananas,
sugar-cane, and Indian com — a total value of over £150.
With praise, prayer, and the benediction this memorable
service was brought to a conclusion.
' So then with hymns of praise
These hallowed courts shall ring !
Our voices we wiU raise
The Three in One to sing,
And thus proclaim
In joyful song.
Both loud and long,
That Glorious Name.'
Latin Hymn {sixth century).
Among our honoured guests at this most interesting
time were Mr. and Mrs. Victor Buxton. The former was
the first member of the Committee of the Church

Chap. 45] POSSIBILITIES— OPPORTUNITIES 341
Missionary Society — that Society to which Uganda
owes so much — to visit the country. He had been
with us for some little time, taking part in a conference
of missionaries which, on June 15 and two following
days, had discussed, but I am sorry to add with very
little practical result, the old, threadbare question of a
constitution for the Church, On June 25th I started
with him and Mrs. Buxton on their way to Jinja,
where on July 2nd they embarked on the Sybil, one of
the Lake steamers, en route for England. I then went
on with Wilhs through Busoga to Masaba, and from
thence with Purvis we travelled through Kavirondo,
visiting Mumia's on the way. The object of our journey
was to find a suitable site for a Mission station. We
had been feehng for some time past that the time had
come for reopening that work in Kavirondo which,
through scarcity of food and other causes, had been
reluctantly closed some twelve years before. From
Mumia's we went on to Maragole, and there we decided
to settle. WiUis, who had worked first in Nkole and
later at Entebbe, volunteered to open the work. The
site was a very beautiful one, in a healthy situation,
in the midst of a numerous population, and in close
contact both with the Bantu and the Nilotic speaking
Kavirondo peoples.

CHAPTER XLVI
FINAL SCENES
' Who keeps one end in view makes aU things serve.'
Bbowning.
The extension into the Nile Valley and the country of
Kavirondo, as mentioned in the preceding chapter,
brings to a close, so far as this retrospect is concerned,
the story of the development of the work of the Church
of Uganda in the regions beyond. It only remains
for me, therefore, to indicate the chief features of in
terior progress which characterised the remainder of
the period covered by this narrative, mentioning, it
may be, in passing, various incidents of interest as they
occurred, and then as shortly as possible to summarise
what has been presented to the reader in perhaps too
detailed a fashion.
Various pubhc functions marked the close of the
year 1904 and the beginning of 1905, The relations
between the Mission and the Uganda Administration
were of the most cordial character. From His Majesty's
representative, the Commissioner, down to the most
recently appointed assistant coUector, nothing but the
utmost courtesy, kindness, and sympathy had for a
long while past been experienced by the Mission. It
was therefore not merely a duty but a pleasure to
invite Government participation in such functions as
the consecration of the new Cathedral, as mentioned
in the preceding chapters, the opening of the new
Hospital on November 28, 1904, and the inaugura-

Chap. 46] FINAL SCENES 343
tion of the Mengo High School on January 25, 1905.
At each of these two latter functions the Government
was represented by the acting Commissioner, Mr.
George Wilson. Of course the young king (Daudi
Cwa), with the Katikiro (now Sir Apolo Kagwa,
K.C,M,G,), was present ; and, wonderful to relate, old
Mbogo, the brother of Mutesa and head of the Moham
medan Baganda, as weU as Mugwanya, the head of the
Roman Cathohc party in Uganda, were also present
with a number of their followers. It was a very great
pleasure to welcome these two men to our midst.
That they should come and thus show their sympathy
with us in our work — Mbogo at the High School actually
made a speech commending the work to his feUow
countrjnnen — ^was indeed a remarkable testimony to
the charity which filled their hearts, and also to the
wonderful change which had come over the pohtical
and rehgious life of the country since the days dwelt
upon in the earher part of this retrospect, when each
party stood armed to the teeth, ready at a moment's
notice to fly at each other's throats. One could not
but thank God for the clearing up of past misunder
standings, and pray earnestly that nothing in the time
to come should be allowed to disturb a relationship so
much in harmony with the spirit of true Christianity.
On Monday, May 22, 1905, a remarkable incident
happened which must not go unrecorded. It was
nothing less than the finding of the bones of the young
lads who had died for their faith some twenty years
before. The discovery was in this wise. The Bishop
of Zanzibar, Dr. Hine, was paying me a visit, and had
seen a good deal of our work, and had preached on the
Sunday to a large congregation on the duties of citizen
ship (it was Empire Day). In the course of his sermon
he remarked on the wonderful change which had come

344 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
over the country since the days when Mwanga, with
fire and sword, had attempted to stamp out Christianity,
This suggested to my mind the possibihty of our visit
ing Busega, as the place of martyrdom was called.
The Katikiro undertook to provide a guide who had
been an eye-witness of the scenes with which the
early days of Christianity in Uganda wiU for ever be
associated. It was early in the morning when we started, and
having met our guide at the foot of Namirembe Hill,
we pursued our way to Natete, the site of our old
Mission station. We crossed the swamp at the foot
of the hill (happily it was bridged), and then up the
opposite hillside we went, until we caught sight of the
bright green surface of the great swamp Mayanja,
Making our way through banana groves, and winding
in and out among gardens of sweet potatoes and Indian
corn, we found ourselves ere long within a few yards
of the dismal swamp. Our guide halted, and pointing
to the long grass where two or three stunted wild date
palms were showing their feathery tops, exclaimed,
" There they died — there they were put to death,"
We looked upon the sacred spot with deep interest,
but there was nothing to tell of the tragedy enacted so
long ago. The same sunshine gilded with its rays the
tops of the papjTTUs and rushes growing in such pro
fusion on every hand; the same breezes as long ago
swept the surface of the long grass, and made that
gentle rustle in the banana leaves which must sound
so sweet to the ear of every Muganda, for it has grown
sweet to us who are but strangers in the land ; the
same birds wheeled hither and thither in the sunny
atmosphere, save that then, doubtless, the vulture and
the kite hovered not far away, waiting for that feast
which in those days was seldom long denied them.

Chap, 46] FINAL SCENES 345
We had been told that not long ago some fragments
yet remained of the wooden frame in which the martyrs
were burned to death, and our guide, we could see, was
searching for them in the jungle. Suddenly he uttered
an exclamation, and hearing the word " egumba," i.e.
a bone, we hurried to the spot. He held in his hand a
bone which was plainly human, and half hidden in the
grass were others — a skull, a thigh-bone, then another
skull, and so on. The Bishop of Zanzibar, who is a
doctor of medicine as well as of divinity, was easily
able to identify them as human remains, and appa
rently those of the youths sixteen or eighteen years
of age. They were the bones, our Mohammedan guide
confidently assured us, of Lugalama, Kakumba, and
Seruwanga. The reality of those awful scenes of bloodshed twenty
years before burst upon us with an intensity of realism
hard to describe as we stood there by the margin of
that swamp with the remains of that martyr band
before us. We thought of the tyrant Mwanga, the
dissolute chief, the Arab power, the heathen darkness
brooding over the land, the faint ghmmer of Hght just
visible on the horizon; the sohtary missionaries, the
daily teaching, the sowing of the seed, the ear and
then the blade just peeping up above the surface of the
rocky soil; the young lads just coming out into the
light, new-born babes in Christ, but who nevertheless,
by that supernatural power which will never fail the
true witness, were enabled to be " faithful unto death,"
and so to win the crown of Hfe.
' They cHmbed the steep ascent of heaven
Through perU, toU, and pain ;
0 God, to us may grace be given
To follow in their train.'
And then one could not but contrast the present

346 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI,
with the past, the scene of yesterday — the noble
cathedral on Namirembe Hffi, the Christian king and
chiefs, the vast congregation, the solemn prayers, the
songs of praise — with that scene of twenty years before
when these young lads, with nothing but the vision of
faith to sustain them, " endured as seeing Him who is
invisible." And so with hearts fiUed with gratitude, and praise
to God for the sustaining grace vouchsafed to that
martyr band, we made our preparations for laying
those whitened bones in their last resting-place. A
trench was dug with a hoe which we borrowed from a
neighbouring hut. This was lined with sweetly scented
grass. Reverently we gathered the precious remains
together, and solemnly laid them to rest, whUe with
bared heads and uplifted hearts we stood, thanking
and praising God for all His servants departed this Hfe
in His faith and fear, but specially for those young
Christian lads who in His love and by His grace had
been enabled to be faithful, in the midst of darkness
and distress, even unto death.
" In sure and certain hope of the resurrection to
eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord," were the
words which closed one of the most solemn and touch
ing scenes in which it has ever been my lot to take part.
For some time past we had been reahsing that a
large number of our Christian people in and around
the capital were living beneath their privileges ; many
of them, who had been baptized years ago, had not
offered themselves for confirmation, and not a few
communicants were very lax in their attendance at
the Lord's Table. Besides which there were many
unbaptized men and women who had for years been
most regffiar in their attendance at church, had been
hearers of the Word, and yet had not made up their

Chap. 46] FINAL SCENES 347
minds to be Christians. We therefore decided to hold
a series of special mission services in the cathedral
with the object, if possible, of bringing these latter
to a decision, and of enabhng the lukewarm Christians
to reahse how far below their privileges they were
Hving. Special preparation was made by weeks of prayer,
and when on Sunday, March 4, 1906, the vast crowds
came together to Hsten to the message of the Gospel,
it was with a spirit of expectation and of hope. For
eight days these services continued with ever-increasing
interest on the part of those who attended them. On
the first day some 3500 men and women came together
at the morning service, and some 1200 at the afternoon.
On the last day the figures for the same services were
5800 and 2000 respectively. During the eight days of
the mission there was an aggregate attendance of over
60,000 souls.
But what of the spiritual results ? They were
very much what we had been hoping and praying
for. Drunkards signed the pledge in large numbers.
Heathen enrolled themselves to such an extent as
candidates for baptism that for a whUe it was diffi
cult to arrange for their instruction, whUst the can
didates for Confirmation were so numerous that we
were obhged to invade the cathedral and hold our
classes there, no fewer than thirteen such classes find
ing accommodation within its precincts. Some people
may perhaps be shocked at such use being made of a
consecrated building, but in my opinion no worthier
purpose could be served by our beautiful new cathedral
than to afford shelter from sunshine and storm for
those who were being taught, some the way of salva
tion, and others the way to a higher, a purer, and a
hoher Hfe.

348 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
This large ingathering of souls through the special
mission services at the capital was an indication of a
similar ingathering which was going on more or less
through the whole country. We were now at high-
water mark in our work. For the five years ending
September 30, 1907, no fewer than 36,000 souls were
baptized into the Church in Uganda. In other words,
for the last five years in succession an average of
more than 7000 souls each year had been baptized
into that " name which is above every name, and to
which every knee shall bow." The number of Con
firmation candidates, too, had also largely increased.
Of this I had remarkable proof in the course of a
journey through the Lunyoro-speaking countries of
Nkole, Toro, and Bunyoro, in the autumn of 1907,
Previous to starting on this journey, a meeting of
Church representatives was held in the latter days of
June, and a step forward taken in the orgamsation
of the diocese. It was agreed that a Synod should
assemble yearly, and that the laws regulating its
powers and providing for its coming together should
be embodied in the constitution known as the Amateka
ge Kanisa {i.e. the laws of the Church), agreed to in
the year 1899, and in accordance with the provisions
of which the work of the Church had ever since been
carried on. It was a matter of regret to me that the
missionary body was still reluctant to come under the
terms of the constitution ; but at the time of writing
I am happy in the knowledge that this reluctance has
passed away, and that there is good hope that at the
first opportunity provision wiU be made in the con
stitution for a legal participation of all European workers
in the councUs of the Church,
The conference over, on July 2nd I started on my
long journey through the Lunyoro-speaking countries

Chap. 46] FINAL SCENES 349
of Nkole, Toro, and Bunyoro, referred to above. It
was a cheering and heart-stirring experience from first
to last. Within a few hours of leaving the capital
I was met on the road by crowds of young native
Christians, some with drums and flutes, some with
flags and banners, some, especially the school children,
with bunches of flowers tied to the ends of long reeds
which they carried in procession. Sometimes one
was greeted with the singing of hymns ; at other
times by the beating of drums and the clapping of
hands ; but more frequently by the " Kuba ndulu,"
which consists of shriU cries rendered intermittent by
the hand beating the hps. For several weeks this
kind of reception was almost a daUy experience.
My first Confirmation service was at Buwere, some
fifty miles away. Then on I went through Budu,
confirming on the way, and receiving that daUy wel
come which was so marked a feature of this my latest
journey. It is said not infrequently that on account of the
exceptional circumstances in which a bishop in a
diocese hke Uganda sees the work he is hardly able
to acquire a fair impression of its actual condition.
It is no doubt true that a bishop in the visitation of
his diocese wiU generally see the work at its best.
Crowds will come to greet him; congregations will be
large ; schools wUl be in inspection order ; gatherings of
evangehsts and teachers, communicants and candidates
for Confirmation and Baptism, wiU convey an impression
of the work different from its everyday aspect. But
the impression is none the less a true one. The bishop
does not run away with the idea that there are
always these crowded churches and schools, these de
monstrations of joy, these gatherings of teachers and
communicants. He knows fuU weU that these circum-

350 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
stances are exceptional, and after years of experience
he knows how to gauge their fuU value. Of course, if
he were entirely dependent on visitations for his know
ledge of the condition of the work he might be misled
by what he saw on such occasions. But he has a
thousand and one other sources of information— corre
spondence, personal contact with clergy and workers
of all ranks, and so on. And so it comes about that no
one is really so qualified as the bishop (supposing him
to be a man of ordinary common-sense) to express an
opinion on the actual condition of the work of his
diocese. From Budu I journeyed to Koki, and thence on to
Nkole, The king unfortunately was in Uganda, but
Mbaguta, the Prime Minister, and aU the Christian
chiefs were most warm in their greetings. The atmos
phere of the whole place was vastly different to that
in which Dr. A, R, Cook and I were nearly (meta
phorically speaking) stffied on the occasion of our visit
in 1899, Then the atmosphere was purely heathen;
gross darkness covered the land — a darkness that might
be felt. Now, however, all was changed. Instead of
being greeted by medicine men with their incantations,
one was welcomed with psalms and hymns and spiri
tual songs. Men and women were evidently making
melody in their hearts to the Lord, Teaching was
going on all around. The school was prospering ;
and (greatest change of all) the women had been
given a large measure of freedom, and had now come
out of their seclusion. Many indeed, half hidden in
veils and under umbrellas, managed to walk a mile
or two on the road to meet me. It was a weird sight
to see them, their faces half hidden in veils, one eye
only being visible, and each with a huge black umbrella
sheltering her from the gaze of the common people.

Chap, 46] FINAL SCENES 351
It was, however, a welcome proof that the old order
was changing and giving place to the new.
An eight days journey brought me once again to
Toro, where I was a witness of one of the most remark
able demonstrations of feeling of which the history of
the Church in Uganda has any record. Some three
thousand men and women and children came out on
the road to welcome us. There was the king in his
State dress, with his guard of honour, the Prime
Minister on horseback, and crowds of minor chiefs,
all in their hohday attire, and all apparently bubbling
over with joyous excitement. The air was rent with
cries of welcome. The running to and fro was in
cessant. The hand-shaking, the crowding and the
crushing, were almost overwhelming. This wonderful
reception was not, however, a personal greeting.
There were, no doubt, many present who were glad
to see me and welcome me as an old friend. But,
wonderful to relate, it was rather a demonstration of
joy at the news which had recently reached them,
that the whole Bible was to be translated into their
beloved mother-tongue. So far they had only got the
New Testament in the vernacular. They had, how
ever, the whole Bible in Luganda, a language which
many Batoro understood fairly well. But to use a
foreign tongue for spiritual instruction is to employ
an ineffectual instrument. And this the people of
Toro had been feeling strongly for some time past, and
they pleaded earnestly that Maddox, who had made a
very close and earnest study of Lunyoro, which is the
vernacular of Toro, might be allowed to translate the
Old Testament as he had already translated and given
to the people the New Testament, in their own tongue.
In November 1906 the king had called a meeting of
chiefs and leading Christians, at which a petition was

352 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
drawn up and presented to me, setting forth in touch
ing terms their earnest desire for the whole Bible in
their own beloved mother-tongue. Its opening sen
tences ran thus : —
" We, the Christians of the Banyoro community,
have written to you this letter praying for the Holy
Book, the Bible, in our own Lunyoro language. The
reason of our praying for that book is that you have
already been good to us, for you have given to us
the New Testament, a hymn-book, a reading-book, and
the Prayer-book. These books have helped us very
much, because the people reading these books, even in
their own homes, thoroughly understand the meaning
of them. But even we who first began to read in
Luganda, when we obtained these four books in our
own Lunyoro language, were much more pleased than
with the Luganda books. Again, even to us who know
Luganda, there are many words we cannot understand,
especially when we read them in our own homes, and
there are very many in this country who do not know
Luganda." The receipt of this petition opened up a very wide
question. It had been the hope of many workers in
the Mission that Luganda might in course of time
displace Lunyoro and minor languages. At one time
some of us seemed to see signs that this was actually
coming to pass. The advantage of having one great
language with one literature was manifest, and was
not a policy to be lightly laid aside. However, natural
forces were at work and soon made themselves ap
parent. A strong national feeling had for some time
past been seething beneath the surface both in Tore
and Bunyoro. This had strengthened the demand for
Lunyoro as opposed to Luganda. It was a feehng
very natural, and in some of its aspects even laudable.

<
>

z

Chap, 46] FINAL SCENES 353
Moreover it was one which I felt it quite impossible to
oppose without serious risk to the prospects of our
work. I therefore strongly urged upon the governing
body of the Mission in Uganda that the prayer of the
petition should be granted, and that Maddox should
be asked to undertake the great work of translating
the Old Testament into Lunyoro. The discussion was
long and exhaustive. At length to my great joy my
proposal was carried, and a few days later I had the
stffi greater joy of communicating the result to the
Church in Toro. The demonstiation of king, chiefs,
and people which I have described above was the
expression of their dehght and gratitude.
In every department of the work marked progress
was apparent. Under the auspices of Dr. Bond the
hospital and dispensary were reaching and reheving
large numbers of the suffering sick. The schools were
crowded. Classes for Baptism and Confirmation were
in fffil swing, the instruction of women by Miss Pike
and Miss Baugh Allen in lace-making and weaving was
being attempted, and industrial work under Maddox's
supervision had attained such success, that I found a
beautiful new brick church, more hke a smaU cathedral
than an ordinary church, awaiting consecration.
This ceremony took place on August 1st, and was
the occasion of immense crowds coming together. The
Sub-Commissioner was present in full urnform, and of
course the king and his chiefs in official dress. The
service was a very joyful, and yet to many of us a
very solemn one. The manifold blessing of God upon
the work, whUe it filled our hearts with thanksgiving
and praise, also humbled us as we thought of our short
comings and faUures, and how undeserving we were
of the use which He had made of us. The offertory
was a wonderful token of hberahty on the part of the
II z

354 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
congregation. It amounted to nearly £40, made up of
cowrie shells, cattle, sheep, goats, fowls, and produce
of various kinds, as well as rupees and pice.
The supreme moment came at the service on Sunday,
August 4th, when two natives of Toro, Andereya Sere
and Yosiya Kamuhigi, were solemnly set apart as
Deacons for the work of the ministry. At the same
time no fewer than 619 Communicants gathered around
the Table of the Lord, To crown all, before I left
Toro I was able to confirm some 401 candidates.
After leaving Kabarole I visited both Butiti and
Bugoma, where Confirmations were held, and then
took the direct road to Hoima, where I arrived on
August 16th, The work in Bunyoro had suffered
considerably from political disturbance earher in the
year, a disturbance which had been quelled by the
energetic action of the Acting Commissioner, Mr,
G, Wilson ; but I found the classes in full swing, a
large new church being built, and a school-room in
course of construction. After holding a Confirmation
service and attending a meeting of the Bunyoro Church
Council, at which various matters affecting the ad
ministration of the Church funds came under dis
cussion, I took the road to Mengo, where I arrived
on August 31st,
Exactly two months had elapsed since I left the
capital, in the course of which I had travelled some
five hundred miles, and had been kept from first to last
in perfect health, Koki, Nkole, Toro, and Bunyoro
had in turn been visited. One had been permitted to
consecrate a beautiful new church to confirm no fewer
than 1166 men and women, and above all in the ordina
tion of two Deacons, to lay the foundation of the native
mimstry in Toro. Laus Deo.

CHAPTER XLVII
SUMMARY (1890-1908)
' We turn and look upon the valley of the past years. There
below are the spots stained by our evil and our fear. But as we
look a glow of sunlight breaks upon the past, and in the sunshine
is a soft rain falling from heaven. It washes away the stain,
and from the purity of the upper sky a voice seems to descend
and enter our sobered hearts — " My child, go forward, abiding
in faith, hope, and love, for lo ! I am with you always ! " '
Stopfoed Beooke.
My story of busy life in Uganda and Equatorial Africa
has in its details now drawn to a close. It only re
mains for me to sum up, as briefly as possible, what has
gone before, and to indicate as shortly as I can the
main features of those wonderful changes which, in the
comparatively short period of my Episcopate, have
come over those countries in which for eighteen years
of happy blessed service my lot has been cast.
Eighteen years ago the political future of East
Africa and Uganda was still hanging in the balance.
The British East Africa Company was staggering
under a burden greater than it could bear, Germany
had recently enunciated the doctrine of the " Hinter
land" and was casting envious eyes upon Uganda,
whUst the fate of Zanzibar was still uncertain,
France, too, was not without longings for a Central
African Empire, Two missionaries and a sohtary
representative of the British East Africa Company
were the sole Englishmen in Uganda, Now, however,
Zanzibar and East Africa are both British Protec
torates, the latter ruled by a Governor and a Legis-
366

356 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
lative Council, assisted by a large and capable staff
of officers. The kingdom of Uganda has her own
native ruler (Kabaka), who has, with the chiefs, tieaty
relations with Great Britain, by which her inde
pendence under British protection is secured, A re
sident Governor, assisted by Sub-Commissioners and
Collectors, not only supervises the administration of
Uganda, but also that of the protected countries of
Toro, Bunyoro, Nkole, Busoga, and other territories
included within the boundaries of the Protectorate,
Eighteen years ago slavery with aU its attendant
horrors stffi flourished, not only in Zanzibar, Pemba,
and Mombasa (and that in spite of treaties and de
crees), but also in the far interior, where no such legal
enactments were possible. Now, however, not only has
the status of slavery been abohshed in the Protectorates
of Zanzibar and East Africa, where the Sultan stiU holds
a nominal sovereignty, but also in Uganda, by the wffi
and free choice of enlightened Christian chiefs.
In 1890 that most savage and bloodthirsty of tribes,
the Masai, dominated the greater part of East Africa
from Kavirondo to the coast. Now, however, Masai
youths who in the old days would as El, Moran be
on the war-path seeking for an opportunity of " blood
ing " their spears, are to be found as table and house
boys in the homes of Enghsh settlers (and very good
house boys they make). Others are being employed
as pohcemen and soldiers (askaris), and at least one
is under training with a view to ordination as a
Christian minister.
The journey from the coast to Uganda, which in 1890
took me nearly six months, can now be done in as many
days. Instead of the long sinuous hne of porters wind
ing in and out of the jungle, crawling along at the rate
of between two and three miles an hour, we have the

Chap, 47] SUMMARY 357
luxuriously fitted railway train doing its thirty
mUes an hour. Instead of the canoe creeping along
the Lake shore or from island to island in its passage
across the great Lake, occupjdng some two or three
weeks of precious time, we have now such steamers
as the Clement Hill, the Sybil, and the Winifred, with
their saloons and cabins fitted with electric light and
electric fans, and doing the passage in as many days
as it formerly occupied weeks.
Formerly Central Africa was asleep. The railway
has awakened her. The electric telegraph has brought
the Hfe of the far west and the far east in contact with
her own. What is happening in the bazaars of Lahore
or Calcutta is known the next day in the bazaars at
Kampala, Renter keeps the official life at Entebbe
in closest contact with that at Downing Street or
St. Stephen's, The varying fortunes of a pohtical con
test hke that of Mr, Winston Churchill is followed as
closely in Mengo as in Manchester,
In the old days we sometimes waited eight or nine
months for a mail, and were hungry indeed for news
from the home-land. Now a weekly mail is the estab
lished order of things, and shoffid it be delayed on
account of a " wash out " on the hne, the complaints
are both loud and deep. Eighteen years ago roads in
Uganda were non-existent, except in and around the
capital. Footpaths there were in plenty, but for the
traffic of to-day they woffid be absolutely useless.
Now, however, broad roads intersect the country in
every direction. A motor car belonging to the
Governor now runs between Kampala and Entebbe,
and before long it is evident that motor traffic wffi be
one of the principal means of locomotion between
Uganda and such outlying countries as Bunyoro and
Toro.

358 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
Then, agam, the outward aspect of the everyday
hfe of the Baganda differs vastly from that of eighteen
years ago. Then there was nothing but the beehive-
shaped hut to be seen. Even the king's house was of
the traditional type. Now, however, the chief who has
not a brick house with a corrugated iron roof is re
garded as altogether behind the times. American and
Japanese " rickshas " are now the order of the day
for any self-respectmg great chief. Some ride bicycles,
others mffies and horses. Most of the great chiefs have
their type-writers, and secretaries who conduct their
correspondence for them. The dress, too, both of
chiefs and people, is indicative of that higher standard
of Hvmg to which the Baganda have now attamed.
The forces which have operated in producmg these
remarkable features in the present day Hfe m Uganda
have been many and various. I have aUuded to them
more than once in the course of my story. I need
therefore now only touch upon them very briefly, ere
I pass on to sum up the progress of that missionary
work which I hold to have been the greatest of aU
the influences which have combined to make Uganda
what she is to-day.
First of aU, the civihsing influence of the more ad
vanced hfe of the Arab traders of the early days must
not be lost sight of in reckomng up the forces which
in one way or another have wrought upon the national
hfe of the Baganda, which as I have already suggested
had been anciently to a certain extent moulded and
fashioned by an earher Egyptian influence. Nor can
that weight of testimony as to the possibffity of a
higher hfe given by such traveUers as Speke, Grant,
and above all Staffiey, be left out of consideration.
Then we have to remember the part played by the
pioneers of the Imperial British East Africa Company,

w
h
Oa;
5o2w>
Chap. 47] SUMMARY 359
represented by Lugard and Wilhams, and also by that
influence exerted by men like Macdonald, whose name
will always be held by the Baganda in grateful re
membrance. But perhaps the greatest of all these moulding
political forces, to which from time to time in the course
of my story I have alluded, has been that of the British
admimstration, estabhshed at the coming of Sir Gerald
Portal in 1893. The power of that moulding force has
been very largely what it has been through the wise
and judicious way in which from the very beginning
it has recognised and striven to work in harmony with
those stronger moral and spiritual forces exerted by
the Christian Missions, which by strenuous labour had
for well nigh sixteen years been preparing the way for
that unifying and consolidating influence commonly
known as " Pax Britannica." Under its aegis, law
and order have been established, and economic forces,
being allowed fair play, are gradually doing their work,
and the Baganda are surely, and not slowly, working
out their own future.
And so I pass on my way to a brief summary of that
remarkable missionary work which has been the main
topic of the eighteen years retrospect which is the
subject of this work, and for which I claim a first place
in the list of those forces which, in the providence of
God, have had a share in the making of the Uganda
of to-day.
In 1890, when first I arrived in the country, the
number of baptized Christians was probably two
hundred. Now this little band has grown into a great
host of 62,867. Of these more than 36,000 have been
baptized within the last five years. In other words,
for the last five years in succession over 7000 soffis
each year have been baptized into the Church of Christ

360 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
in Uganda, But it may be said numbers are not
everything. How is it with the Church as to her
spiritual hfe ? What about the Commumcants ? On
January 20, 1891, they numbered 70. In 1897
they had increased to 2655, the proportion of Com
mumcants to the baptized members of the Church
being about one in four. On September 30, 1907,
however, the proportion was about one in three, the
total being no less than 18,078,
If it be true, as true it is, that in the Sacrament of
the Lord's Supper we " proclaim " the Lord's death
" till He come," how profoundly thankful, as Christians,
shoffid we be for this army of the Lord which He has
raised up in this age-long heathen land of Uganda, to
testify to the glorious fact of His having " given His
life a ransom for many," Who that took part in that
wonderful service of Holy Commumon in the new
Cathedral on Namirembe Hill on Christmas Day, 1902,
when no fewer than 1049 Commumcants gathered
around the Table of the Lord, can ever forget the
thrill of emotion which surged through heart and
brain as with silent footfall the dusky wffite-robed
throng, in apparently endless succession, partook of
the elements of Christ's body broken and His blood
shed ? Surely the song of the angehc host had for aU
of us on that glad Christmas mormng a fffiler and
deeper meaffing,
' Glory to God in the highest.'
The mcrease in the mimstry of the Church has been
co-extensive with the increase in her membersffip. As
I have explained elsewhere, I include in the term
" mimstry " all formally enroUed workers for God,
whether men or women, lay or clerical. In 1891 it
was my happy privUege to be permitted to set apart

Chap, 47] SUMMARY 361
six lay evangelists for such work as they might law
fully do as laymen. This was practically the founda
tion of the native mimstry as we find it in Uganda to
day. In 1893 the first deacons were ordained, and
three years later (May 31, 1896), the first native priests.
In 1897 the native lay teachers and evangehsts
numbered 685 and the native clergy 10. To-day the
former number 2036 and the latter 32.
The influence of such a body of workers on the Hfe
of the country cannot but be deep and far reaching.
Nor has the advance been offiy in numbers. The
educational standard of all Church workers from the
clergy downwards has risen immensely during recent
years. At most of the out-stations a traimng work
is being systematically carried on, whilst at the Central
Station on Namirembe no fewer than four missionaries
devote the whole of their time to this most important
part of the work. Half yearly examinations are held
for those who are qualifying, men and women alike,
for the authorisation of the Church for the work of
teaching and preaching. The result has been a great
stimulus to study, and a very real advance in the
standard attained. One further point is to be noted
with regard to this native ministry, and that is, that
it is maintained entirely from native sources. Not
a single halfpenny of English money is used in the
support of either clergy, lay readers, or teachers.
From the worker one passes by a natural transition
of thought to the bffilding in wffich the work is done.
In 1890 there was but one grass thatched church in
Uganda, that at Mengo, In 1897 there were some 321
places of worship scattered throughout the country.
In these churches there was sitting accommodation
for 49,751 persons, with an average Sunday mormng
attendance of 25,300 worshippers. In the latest avail-

362 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
able statistics the figures under the same headings
stand as foUows : Places of worship, 1070 ; sitting
accommodation, 126,851 ; with an average Sunday
mormng attendance of 52,471.
It must not be imagined that these thousand churches
scattered throughout the land are substantial stone or
even brick bffildings. The brick or stone church is
being gradually evolved out of the reed or wattle and
daub structure, which is so easily built and as easily
repaired. Ten years ago every church in the country
was built of timber and reeds with a grass thatch. To
day we rejoice in the completion of the brick cathedral
on Namirembe, and the up-rearing of similar brick
structures ; of smaller dimensions, however, in Toro,
Nkole, Hoima, Gayaza, and other places ; whUst large
and substantial churches built of wattle and daub,
with heavy timber frame-work, are replacing the less
substantial reed church in the more out of the way
parts of the country.
There is one fact to be carefully and thankfully
borne in mind in relation to these thousand churches
in Uganda, and that is that they have been bffilt
and are being repaired by the natives themselves, and
from their own resources,
' The httle church on yonder hiU
That seems to touch the skies,
Gives birth to mingled feelings
As oft it meets mine eyes.'
It tells eloquently of the new era which has dawned
upon that land of old time cruelty and oppression.
It speaks of the self-sacrifice, the trial, difficffity, en
durance of sorrow, sickness, and even death wffich has
been a marked characteristic of the work of planting
the Gospel of Christ in that land once so remote from
Christian civilisation. It speaks too of the simple

Chap, 47] SUMMARY 363
faith and cffild-like trust of those who, from day to
day and from Sabbath to Sabbath, gather together
for the worship of Him whom not having seen they
love, and in whom though now they see Him not, yet
rejoice with joy unspeakable and fuU of glory. It
proclaims, too, and that in trumpet tones, the glorious
truth which I desire above all others to bring home
to the mind of the reader, and that is, that the Cross
of Christ has not lost its ancient power, and that it is
still the power of God unto salvation to every one
that believeth.
And so it comes to pass that as we journey through
the land and see these churches dotting the landscape
and crowning this hill and that, our hearts are fiUed
with thankfffiness and praise to Him who has so
wonderfully blessed the feeble efforts of His missionary
servants. Then another influence which has had its share in
the making of Uganda has been the work of the
Medical Mission both in dispensary and hospital as
well as in the wide field of medical itineration. Just
as Western civilisation has been influenced and indeed
permeated by that care for the sick and suffering
which is of the very essence of Christian truth, so
the barbarism of Central Africa is learning through
medical missionary work something of that divine pity
which will ever be manifested by the true followers
of the Great Physician towards those who, in the
mysterious providence of God, are called upon to
suffer. In 1890 no regular medical work was possible ; but,
as has already been pointed out, at irregular intervals
untiP1897 something was done by Drs. Baxter, Rattray,
and'Gaskoin Wright to meet the vast needs of suffering
humamty in Uganda. In this latter year the Medical

364 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
Mission at Mengo as we know it to-day had its be
ginning, founded by Dr, A, R, Cook, The statistics
for that year show 141 patients treated in the hospital,
with its 12 beds ; while the dispensary had its 16,053
attendances. Ten years later for the two hospitals,
the one at Mengo and the other in Toro under Dr.
Bond, the figures stand under the same headings as
foUows : Beds, 158 ; in-patients, 2136 ; attendances at
dispensaries, 127,594. Medical staff : doctors, 3 ; nurses,
(European), 8. What these figures mean, in the allevia
tion of sickness and suffering, can only be reahsed by
those who have actually come into contact with the
work, and seen for themselves the crowds of sick, lame,
halt, and impotent folk crowding in daily for treat
ment. But besides the actual alleviation of suffering,
the new view of life, having in it the element of pity for
the helpless and suffering ones of humamty, has come
as a revelation to multitudes in Central Africa, and as
I have already suggested has had its share in shaping
and moulding the present national life of Uganda.
But next to the purely spiritual power exerted by
the preaching of the Gospel, perhaps the greatest force
wffich in recent years has influenced and impressed the
life of the Baganda has been that of education — educa
tion in its widest and deepest meaffing. The industrial
training which has been an essential part of our edu
cational system since the days of Mackay, has been
the means of influencing large numbers of the Baganda
and of fitting them to take their proper share in the
material development of their own country. The
result has been that carpenters, joiners, bricklayers,
printers, and other mechamcs have been so trained
that they in their turn are training others, and so the
work goes forward, with the consequence that the
people are now becoming possessed of better houses.

Chap. 47] SUMMARY 365
houses in every way more sffited to the Mgher standard
of hvmg which is becoming general throughout the
country. Tffis industrial work under Borup's super
vision attained such large dimensions that it was felt
necessary sometime ago to hand it over to a company
of sympatffismg friends, in whose hands the cultivation
of cotton has prospered to such an extent that it
promises to become one of the staple products of the
country. With regard to what is popularly known as education,
that is mstruction (at the very least) m the three R's.,
I may say that practicaUy aU our candidates for Baptism,
men and women ahke, have from the very beginning
been taught the art of reading. In the early days our
staff of missionaries was so smaU and the number of
those seeking Baptism was so great, that aU we coffid
do was to teach those who were thus passmg mto
the Kingdom the fundamentals of Christiamty. But
during more recent years the education of the chUdren
has been taken seriously in hand and systematicaUy
pursued. The resffit is that whereas in 1897 offiy some
seven hundred cffildren were under mstruction, at the
present moment no fewer than tffirty-two thousand
boys and girls are to be found m our primary schools.
It is safe to say that during the last decade at least
a quarter of a mUhon of persons, men, women, and
chUdren, have been taught the elements of reading,
writmg, and arithmetic. This is proved conclusively
by the statistics of our book sales. For mstance, I
find that during the last three years no fewer than
109,362 copies of the first reading-book in Luganda
have been sold, together with 23,000 portions of scripture,
includmg Bibles and Testaments, and 34,000 other
books of various kmds, makmg altogether a total of
166,000, Durmg the same period no fewer than

366 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
610,280 sheets of writing-paper, together with 49,916
note and exercise books have been disposed of to the
people, by sale, whUst 47,730 pencils and penholders
have by the same means found their way into the
hands of those who were learffing or had learnt the art
of writing. These facts speak for themselves, and are
an eloquent testimony of the widespread character of
our educational work. This work is now superintended
by a Board of Education consisting of the Prime
Miffister (Katikiro), the Kago, the senior native clergy
and missionaries, and presided over by the Bishop,
I need hardly add that all our educational work has
a religious basis, and that our aim is so to bffild up
character that the rising generation of the Baganda
shaU not be simply " smart " or clever, but that they
shall be God-fearing men and women, who realise their
responsibilities in life and possess an equipment fitted
to fffifil them. With this end in view we have placed
the Bible in the very forefront of our work, and it
would be difficult to exaggerate the influence wffich
it has had upon the life of the people. It comes out in
their conversation, in their letters, and even in the
National Council (Lukiko) its power is felt. It is
recorded that on a certain occasion of difficulty (I have
already alluded to it) the resemblance of the case in
question to an incident in the Book of Acts was recog
nised by several members of the Council. A Bible was
sent for and read. The decision arrived at was in
accordance with its teaching.
The greater part of our educational work is carried
on in the vernacular, for the simple reason that we
have no wish to denationalise the Baganda. We have
no desire to turn them into black Englishmen (if such
a thing were possible), but rather to strengthen their
own national characteristics, and thus to fit and equip

Chap. 47] STODLIRY 367
them for taking their proper part in the administrative,
commercial, and industrial Hfe of their own country.
This teaching m the vemacffiar has involved us m a
great translational work m wffich the names of
Pilkington, Crabtiee, Rowhng, and Maddox find
prominent place. Besides the Bible, we have m our
hst of books in Luganda, the Prayer Book, a hymn-
book, the Oxford helps to the study of the Bible,
Commentaries on aU the Gospels, Norris' " Com
mentary on the Prayer Book," " PUgrim's Progress,"
Robertson's " Church History," .^Esop's Fables,
a life of Mohammed, a Geography, an Arithmetic,
Grammars, Vocabffiaries, and sundry works calcffiated
to help generaUy m our scheme of education in the
vernacular. These then are the forces which have operated during
recent years m fasMoning the Hfe of the Baganda as
we see it to-day, and wffich have wrought those changes
which to those who are able to look back upon the days
that are gone, days of gross cruelty and darkness, seem
so wonderfffi, I say not that the Hfe of the Baganda
is all that we wish to see. It is far otherwise. We see
much to deplore and to sorrow over in their ingrained
sensuality, their untruthfffiness, their failure to reahse,
as we think they might do, their higher duties and
responsibilities. But at the same time, when we think
of the hole of the pit from wffich they have been digged,
when we remember what they were, the centuries of
gross heathenism and barbarism which are beffind
them, and above all, when we bear in mind the force,
the fearful power of hereditary tendency, we are lost
in wonder and amazement at the marvellous change
which has passed over their lives, a change as from
darkness to light, one that can offiy be compared, in
its greatness and glory, to a change as from death unto

368 UGANDA AND EAST AFRICA [Book VI.
life, a change that can only have been wrought by
supernatural power, the power of the spirit of the
eternal God,
And so my story of eighteen years of busy Ufe in
Uganda and Equatorial Africa comes to an end. But
ere I lay down my pen I cannot but add one word
more, a word of thankfffi acknowledgment of that
gracious goodness and love which has permitted me
to see such things as those of which this story teUs,
wffich has suffered me to bear some part m that great
work wffich God, through His witnessing servants, is
doing for the redemption of Africa, and wffich He has
done in the hearts of the people of Uganda ; wffich has
watched over and kept me in perUs innumerable m
twenty-two thousand miles of wandering in Equatorial
Africa, The story wffich I have told has been one in the
main of missionary hfe and work. It has, therefore,
been one of contrasts. Dark shadows deepeffing to
profoundest gloom characterise the scene at one
moment. At another the hghts flash out with the
most vivid intensity, reveahng details and features
with pre-Raphaehte distinctness and precision. Sorrows
and sufferings, trials and difficulties have been almost
the daily lot of those who, in the Providence of God,
have been caUed to the work of the Church in Central
Africa, But they regret it not. As Augustine says,
" The household of the true God has a consolation of
its own, founded in the things which cannot be shaken
or pass away," Yes ! the very sorrows and trials of
the Church have ever been her chiefest blessings, and
pre-eminently have they been so in Uganda, They
have been a stimffius to action, and an assurance of
the hidden working of Him who is the Life and Head
of the Church.

Chap. 47] SUMMARY 369
However dark at times may have been the scene,
however profound the gloom, one characteristic of the
Church's work in Uganda has never been hidden, one
feature has never been obscure to those with eyes to
see and ears to hear, and that is the glorious fact wffich
I trust I have made clear and plain in the course of
this work, the fact of the Presence of the Divine Lord
and Master Himself, the great Head of the Church,
gffiding, controlhng, blessing, and over-ruhng every-
thmg, even the devices of wicked men, to His own glory
in the salvation of immortal soffis. He has indeed
been to His Church in Uganda and East Africa the
pillar of cloud by day and the pillar of fire by ffight.
He has abundantly fuffilled His own promise :
' Lo, I am with you alway, even unto the end
of the world.'

II 2 A

APPENDIX
STATISTICS OF THE UGANDA MISSION

Native Christian
Lay TeaclierB.

Native Christians.

ao
1 a

Baptism! during
the Year.

Scholars.

i
2
stations.
j
a
oi
s
1
a
H
•J &
03
a
1 CO
o
¦a ..J o
H
o
2
1
1'ao
.
o
H
1 CO
1
CD
3
¦s 1
1
ao
o t
B5
1
1887
200
100
300
50
2
2
...
1897
479
42
521
12,089
2368
14,457
3343
2757
802
3559
9
245
228
209
742
R. C.
4,841.00
1907
Uganda Provinoe :
Kyadondo : Mengo
and environs . .
4H
30
78
14,4f)0
172
14,632
4154
329
249
578
4
749
334
50
1133
5388.21
Makerere . .
28
12
40
2568
42
2010
508
102
28
130
3
230
219
449
269.97
Gayaza . .
90
8
98
5190
169
5349
1350
191
144
335
2
1045
1140
2191
275.03
Busiro: Entebbe
9
!l
1257
25
1282
300
37
47
84
1
40
48
2
90
276.72
Jungo . .
Cuj
8
73
243(i
90
2532
1254
153
112
205
2
951
971
1922
336.40
Nsangi . . .
17
1
18
1331
64
1395
402
114
81
195
1
522
520
1048
216 31
Bira ....
29
3
32
2121
00
2181
314
121
39
100
2
429
434
863
108 40
Kyagwe : Mukono
42
12
54
2008
80
2154
541
100
91
191
4
748
699
2
1349
464.50
Ngogwe . . .
23
8
31
1110
63
1179
250
105
79
184
2
700
560
5
1201
146.34
Nakanyonyi .
18
2
20
2183
87
2270
529
108
91
199
1
560
469
0
1041
219.87
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INDEX

Abamasaza, the, ii. 258
Abdul Aziz bin Mohamed, Sultan of
Zanzibar, interview with, 44 ;
letter from, to Mwanga, i. 45
Acholi country, visit to, ii. 332 et seq.
 people, ornaments and houses
of, ii. 333
Achte, Pere, on French missionary
aims in Uganda, i. 173
African discovery, debt to mis
sionaries, i. 2
 journeys, routine of, i. 50-52
Ainsworth, Mr. at Machako's, i. 206 ;
kindness of, ii. 16
Albert Edward Nyanza, foot on, ii.
130 ; islands in, 131-32
Albert Nyanza, ii. 136 ; hippos in,
196
Aliwonyna, Rev. Silasi, ordained ii.
200
Allen, Miss A. E. Baugh, ii. 269
 Miss A. L., educational work
of, u. 331, 353
Aloni, Pilkington's " boy," ii. 91, 92
Amateka ge Kanisa, the, ii. 348
Andereya, ii. 28 ; church begun by,
i. 176
Andereya, Kimbugwe Bunyoro, ii.
174 ; the capture of Mwanga, 194
 and Fitipo, Bagunda mission
aries in Nkole, ii. 241-43 ; success
of, 250
Anglo-German treaty (1890), effects
on Uganda, i. 42 ; Emin Pasha's
view, 79
Apolo Kagwa (Katildro), see Kagwa,
Apolo
Arab influence in Uganda, i. 87, ii.
229, 358-59
Arabs, expulsion of, i. 81, 90
Arthur, Captam, i. 259, 282, 284
Ashe, Rev. R. P. (see also Mackay
and Ashe), i. 227, 238, 239 ; early
days in Uganda, i. 14 et aeg., 23, 24 ;
death of, reported, i. 172, and
escape, i. 179 ; resignation, i. 311 ;
share in founding Lukiko, i. 238
Aswa river, ii. 336
Athi plains, game on, ii. 16

Athi river, i. 202
Atoxyl, ii. 305
Aziz bin Raschid, rebel chief, ii. 1, 13
Babamba natives, huts and dress of,
ii. 136-37
Bacteria in sleeping sickness, ii. 303-5
Bafransa {see also Roman CathoUc),
i. 28 et seq., 173 et seq.
 in Budu, ii. 191, 192, 234
 chiefs, of Bwekula, ii. 274
 claims, i. 243 et seq., 266 et seq..
Portal's settlement, i. 268, ii. 42
 detention by, of heirs to throne,
i. 244 et seq.
 during Soudanese mutiny, i. 285
 excitement, i. 101 ; calmed by
Tucker, 105-6
Baganda canoes, i. 85, 86
 chiefs, see Chiefs
 children, education and intelli
gence of , 150, 152, 161, 167, 327-30
 clergy, essentials in, i. 233-38,
ii. 203 ; first seven chosen, i. 236,
ii. 361
 craving for books, see Books
 colony on Mount Elgon, ii.
316-17
 denationaUsing of, avoided, ii.
366
 dress, i. 94, ii. 293 ; for
teachers, i. 357
 dwellings, i. 96, ii. 358
 guards, ii. 124
 heathen, hatred for Europeans,
ii. 82, 83
 manners, customs, and charac
teristics, i. 86, 96 et seq., 176-77
 martyrs, i. 15, 21, 123-24; bones
found and reburied, ii. 344, 346
 missionaries, and native
teachers {see also Lay-readers), i.
275, 277, 304-5 et seq., ii. 51, 76-
79, 104, 128, 145, 165, 186, 200, 231,
232, 236, 241-43, 248, 269-70, 305,
345 ; training of, i. 113-14, ii. 204,
361
 morality, i. 83 et seq.
 music among, i. 85, 98

INDEX

373

Baganda political organisation, i. 86,
95, ii. 259, 261, 262
 rehgions and superstitions, i.
84 et seq., ii. 78-79
 women, bigotry of, i. 337 ;
women missionaries among, ii. 12,
13, welcome to, ii. 25, 28
Bagenda, Rev. Mikaeri, ii. 276
Bagishu, the, of Mount Elgon, ii.
278, 318
Bagnall, Captain, ii. 87
Bagwe, Island, Christians of, ii. 45
Batulabude, Rev. Andereya, ii. 316
Bahima, the, i. 93, 94, ii. 233
Bailey, J. A., i. 37
Bairu race of Nkole, ii. 233
Bakayana, Rev. Edwadi, ordained,
ii. 269
Baker, Sir Samuel and Lady, un-
forgotten near Wadelai, ii. 336
Bakonjo tribe, ii. 129, 131
Bakunga, Paulo, i. Ill, 112
Balfour, Rt. Hon. A. J., on slavery in
British East Africa, ii. 72
Banda Hill, welcome at, i. 223
Bangereza, the, i. 101 ; claims of,
267 et seq.
Banyankole, the, two races of, ii.
233 ; language of, i6. ; Baganda
missionaries to, ii. 237 et seq.
Barham, Mr., of Jilore, death of, ii.
128
Bark-cloth, i. 94, ii. 293
Batoro, preference for Lunyoro
language, ii. 351-53
Baskerville, Rev. G. K., ii. 17, 62 ;
escape of, 191 ; illness, i. 53, 76 ; or
dained deacon, i. 77, priest, 121, 104
 work of, at Ngogwe, ii. 26, in
Ukambani country, i. 35, at Ziba,
255
 on demand for boolcs at Mengo,
i. 181-82
Basoga, the, backwardness of, causes
ot, ii. 209, 211
 clothes of, i. 220
 preference of, for Luganda
books, ii. 213
 timidity, ii. 220
Bateman, Archdeacon Jones-, i. 317;
kindness of, 333
Batoro, the, ii. 52-53
 petition from, for Lunyoro
Bible, ii. 351-53
Bavuma islands, ii. 35, 36
 punitive expedition to, i. 251
Baxter, Dr., i. 161, 164, 217, 274,
278, ii. 11, 157, 363; carrying
chair devised by, ii. 13
Benadir, the, slavery abolished in,
ii. 67

Berkeley, Mr., Administrator, i. 250,
259 ; and Basaga chiefs, ii. 210 ;
letter from, i. 201, 205
Beverley, Mr., i. 59, 136
 Mr. and Mrs., i. 325
Bible, study of, effect on Baganda,
ii. 280-82, 366
 translations in Luganda, &c.,
i. 11, 30, 110, 113, 215, 252, ii.
18, 93, 367
Bilal, Sudanese rebel leader, ii. 89,
and Pilldngton's death, 92
Binns, Rev. — , at Freretown, i. 4,
ii. 63 ; journeys with, i. 154, ii.
107 ; Rabai church built by, ii. 8
Bird, Miss, ii. 80, 152
Blackburn, Mr., work, death, and
grave of, i. 24, 25, 70, 71
Blackledge, Rev. — , ii. 25, 32, 276 ;
ordained priest, ii. 35
Boats {see also Canoes), Semliki river,
ii. 138 ; Kapi river, ii. 177
Bond, Dr., u. 311, 312, 353
 Mrs., death of, ii. 311
Books, craving for, of natives, i. 109,
111, 122, 181, 231, ii. 31, 177, 231,
267, 365
Boot-mending extraordinary, ii. 55
Borup, K., ii. 98 ; industrial training
by, ii. 154, 263-04, 395 ; Mengo
cathedral planned by, ii. 284, 339
Brad, Pere, conference with, i. 116-17
Bridges, i. 160, ii. 19
British government, action of, as to
Slavery in East Africa, ii. 66 et
seq. ; relations of, with I.B.E.A. Co.,
ii. 4 et seq. ; ofl&cials of, in Uganda,
kindnesses of, ii. 16
 poUticalconnection withUganda,
i. 84, 91, 261, 264; Union Jack
hoisted, i. 265, 295
 Protectorate declared, i. 296, ii.
countries included, ii. 356
 rule, direct, established in East
Africa, ii. 4, 6, 10 ; moulding force
of, ii. 359
British East Africa, Bishopric of,
created, ii. 73-74 ; English com
munity in, ii. 98-t 9 ; famine in, i.
336
Brit ish East Africa Company, see Im
perial do.
Brown, Miss, ii. 11, 80
Bruce, Colonel, investigation of, on
sleeping sickness, ii. 304
Bubembe Island, visited, ii. 196
Buckley, Rev. T. R., u. 11, 123, 127,
128, 277, 314
Budaka, missionaries in, ii. 314
Budo, King's School at, ii. 330
Budu, Bafransa district, i. 190, 191,

374

INDEX

134, 234 ; Mwanga's revolt started
in, ii. 81 et seq., his flight to, 172,
176; scenery in, ii. 234^35; visit
to, ii. 349
Bugaya Island, ii. 35, native Chris
tians of, ii. 36-37
Bugerere, and its chief, ii. 276 et seq.
Bujaju, visited, ii. 190
Bujongolo, elephants near, ii. 54 ;
swamps at, 124^25
Bukasa Island, mission opened, ii. 32 ;
visits to, ii. 42, 57, 195
Bukedi, ii. 276, 277 ; misrule in, ii.
210; Mwanga's flight to, ii. 95, 172
Bukoba, Emin Pasha at, i. 131, 132,
meeting with, 79
Bukumbi, French Mission Station,
i. 244
Bulange industrial mission, ii. 154
Bulanuka, missions at, ii. 129
Bulega Mountains, ii. 181
Bulemezi, ii. 78, 172
Buligwanga, Rev. Zakayo, ordained,
ii. 200
Bulinguge Island, Mwanga's flight to,
i. 175, and expulsion from, 176 ;
prisoner on, i. 81, 90
Bulondonganyi, ruined by a fly in,
ii. 320
Billow, Baron, i. 163-64, 186, 187
Bunyoro (see also Kabarega), beliefs
in, u. 173
 famine in, ii. 173
 king and sister baptized, ii. 180
 mission work in, military and
others, i. 304, ii. 41, 50, 171-85
 visits to, ii. 312, 348, 349, 354
Burial customs, Wateita, ii. 108
Bumess, Mr., at Rabai, i. 290
Burt, Mrs., missionary, ii. 100
 Rev. A. F., ordained deacon,
i. 154 ; at Jilore, i. 292 ; forced
to leave, ii. 2, 4
Busagala, the Lukiko and its work
at, i. 239, 240
Busi Island, vigorous Christianity at,
ii. 42 ; visited, church dedicated,
ii. 270 ; confirmation, 273
Busindi mission station opened, ii. 32
Busoga, chieftainships in, ii. 210
 • Christianity in, ii. 211 et seq.
 chmate of, ii. 223, 227
 mission work in, ii. 35, 78
 Mohammedan revolt in, ii. 85
 murder of Hannington in, i. 18,
70, 216
 physical features of, i. 221
 natives, see Basoga
 sleeping sickness in, ii. 305
 visits to, ii. 216 et seq., 313
Butiti, confirmation at, ii. 354 ; dis

appointment at, ii. 48 ; new chief
at, ii. 126
Buwere, visits to, ii. 349
Buxton, Mr. and Mrs. Victor, at
Mengo, ii. 340
 Sir T. Fowell, and I.B.E.A. Co.,
ii. 6, 8
Bwekula, mission work in, ii. 47, 274
et seq.
Byabachwezi, Bunyoro chief, ii. 172,
182
Byakweyamba, Yafeti, chief of
Mwenge, ii. 48, 50 ; suicide of, 127
Callis, Mr., ii. 62, 80, death, 81
Canoes, Baganda, i. 85, 86 ; Bunyoro,
ii. 177 ; Wasukuma, i. 86
Canterbury, Archbishop of (Temple),
and diocese of British East Africa,
ii. 73
Caravan-travelling, i. 132, ii. 19, 20,
22
Casson, Rev. G. H., ordained, ii. 269
Castellani, Dr., and sleeping sickness,
ii. 303
Cave, Basil, and the Sultanate of
Zanzibar, ii. 60
Cha Ngombe mission, i. 290
Chadwick, Miss, ii. 11, 152, 314
Chagga, visited by Hannington, i. 17 ;
visited by Tucker, i. 154, king
met, 161
Chala, crater lake, i. 160
Chiefs of Uganda, i. 85, 95, con
ferences with, i. 256-57, 270, and
education, ii. 153, 329; lovalty of,
ii. 82-83; power of, i. '86, 95;
Protestant, political views of, i.
29 ; slaves freed by, i. 261 et seq. ;
and sleeping sickness, ii. 306
Chieftainships, redistributed, i. 178,
243, 251, 270 and note
Children, education of, ii. 150, 152,
161, 167, 327 et seq.
Chitty, Captain, ii. 176, 177
Christianity in Uganda and pro
vinces, passim, on Tucker's arrival
and departure, i. 33, ii. 359
Church in Uganda, passim
 constitution, ii. 146, 202, 341,
345
Church building, ii. 33
Church Council, in Uganda, see
Lukiko
Church fund started, i. 307
Church Missionary Society (see also
Freretown), i. 147, 250 ; and
Bishopric of British East Africa,
ii. 73 ; claims, i. 267 et seq. ; lands,
Johnston's settlement, ii. 268-69 ;
missionaries, memorial of, on

INDEX

375

slavery, ii. 70 ; work and workers
of, in East Africa and Uganda,
1844-90, i. 1-34
Churches in Uganda (see Mengo
Cathedral), ii. 361-63
Christian marriage, i. 318-19
Circumcision, question of, i. 329
Clayton, Mr., ii. 62, 80, 186, 192, 193,
236 ; courage, ii. 188 ; in Nkole, ii.
231
Climate, Busoga, ii. 223, 227
 Uganda, i. 93
Cole, H., deacon, i. 24, 58; ordained
priest, 59
 Mr. and Mrs., i. 325
Colsey, Miss, i. 325
Colvile, Colonel, i. 248, 304
Compensation for freed slaves, ii.
103
Concubines, excluded from benefit of
Act on Slavery, ii. 71, 73 note
Conferences of missionaries at Mengo,
ii. 202-5, 274
Congo basin, sleeping sickness in, ii.
303
Congo Free State mutineers, at
Katwe, ii. 130
Constitution of Native Church,
Tucker's efforts to frame, i. 114,
241 et seq., ii. 74, 146, 202, 341, 348
Conversion, i. 119-20, 123
Cook, Dr. A. R., missionary, u. 62,
131 ; in AchoU, ii. 337 ; founder
of Medical Mission, ii. 157, 364;
at Luba's with Pilkington, ii. 89,
90 ; organiser of Mengo Mission
Hospital, ii. 80 ; marriage of, ii.
290 ; in Nkole, ii. 232 et seq. ; sleep
ing sickness in Uganda identified
by, ii. 303; in Toro, ii. 124, 129,
289 ; on facial expression in cate
chumens, ii. 271 ; on the revolts, ii.
83 84 88
 ' Dr! and Mrs. A. R., ii. 313, 322 ;
in Achohland, 332 ; illness of Mrs.
Cook, ii. 335
 Dr. J. H., ii. 244, 323 ; escape
of, 324
Cotter, J. B. M., i. 35 ; death of, 37,
310
Cotton-growing, Uganda, ii. 365
Crabtree, Rev. W. A., ordained priest,
i. 154, 255, 275, ii. 212 ; among
Bagishus, ii. 278, 313 ; transla
tions by, ii. 316
Crauford, Mr., Acting Commissioner,
correspondence with, on slave
question, ii. 65
Currency, ii. 245
Curzon, Lord, and slavery in British
East Africa, ii. 70-71

Daily Telegraph, Stanley's famous
letter to, i. 5, 6
Daudi Cwa Kabaka, (king) of
Uganda, ii. 84, 118, 301, 342;
bom and baptized, ii. 79, 80 ;
coronation of, ii. 85
 Johnston's treaty as affecting,
ii. 258
 lays foundation-stone of cathe
dral, ii. 284
Davies, E. C, ii. 209
Deacons of native church, ordination
of first, i. 275
Deekes, Mr. and Mrs., i. 325
Deimler, Mr. J., ordained deacon, ii.
63
Dermott, Mr., i. 43, 69 ; surgery by,
i. 49 ; death of, i. 310, ii. 212
Divorce, test case, i. 318
Dormitory system, drawback of, i.
184-86
Doulton, Mr., i. 325
Dress, Babamba, ii. 136-37 ; Baganda,
i. 94, ii. 293 ; for teachers, &c.,
i. 357-58 ; Bagaya, ii. 36 ; Basoga,
i. 220 ; Batoro, ii. 53
Dunn, Mr., i. 43 ; surgery by, i. 49 ;
death, i. 76, 310, ii. 12
Durham meeting of protest against
quitting Uganda, i. 145-46
Duta, Rev. Henry Wright, i. 109, 111,
306, ii. 28, 56 ; member of Lukiko,
i. 239 ordination of, i. 236; as
deacon, 275 ; as priest, ii. 55 ;
tribute to Pilkington, ii. 94
 Sarah, i. 15
East Africa, coast region, mission in,
i. 1-31, 314, ii. 62; famine in, i. 336
 Slave question in, i. 3, ii. 64 ;
history of, 66 et seq.
Ecob, Rev. C. H. T., ii. 98, 248;
ordained priest, ii. 200
Education, ii. 150, 153, 162, 263, 327
et seq., 361 ; Tucker's leaflet on,
ii. 205-8
Edward VIL, coronation of. Ham
Mukasa on, ii. 298 et seq.
Edwards, Dr., i. 138, 291, ii. 62 ;
Mombasa hospital begun by, i. 141,
166, 290
Egyptian influence, traces of, i. 85,
86, ii. 233
Eldoma Ravine, ii. 82, 98 ; fight
near, ii. 19, 20, 22
 revolt of Sudanese at, ii. 86, 87
 scenery at, i. 213
Elephants, devastations of, ii. 54
Elgon, Mount, ii. 317 ; Baganda
colony on, ii. 316-17 ; mission on, ii.
278, visited, ii. 313

376

INDEX

Elimenteita, Lake, i. 213
Embwa fly, pest of, ii. 320
Emin Pasha, Tucker's meeting with,
i. 79, 132
 soldiers of (see Sudanese), ii. 86 ;
support offered by, i. 191
England, Rev. T. S., ii. 62 ; ordained
priest, i. 154
Entebbe, i. 279, 284
Epungu, plenty at, i. 68
Erdhardt, missionary work and geo
graphical discoveries of, i. 2
European undesirables, in Uganda,
ii. 293-95
Evatt, Colonel, ii. 117, 180; victory
of, 194
Farthing, H., death of, ii. 311
Felkin, Dr., i. 8, ii. 157
Feudal system in Uganda, &c., ii. 88,
95, 209, 210, 259, 261, 262
Fielding, Captain, death of, ii. 88
Finance Committee of Uganda Mis
sion formed, i. 122
Firmenger, Rev. — . ordained priest,
i. 336
Fisher, Rev. A. B., i. 174, ii. 41, 44,
51, 170 ; ordained, ii. 171, 269 ;
on Bunyoro beliefs, ii. 173 ; on
hopes of Koki, ii. 187
Fitch, E. A., at Rabai, i. 290 ; death
of, i. 310
Fitch, Miss, death of, i. 310
Fletcher, T. B., i. 305
Forster, Mr., ii. 83 ; as printer, i. 254
Fort Smith, Kikuyu, i. 207, ii. 16,
113
Fraser, A. G., ii. 269, and "King's
School," Mengo, 329
French priests, see Bafransa, and
Roman Catholic
Frere, Sir H. Bartle E., and freed
slave settlement, i. 3 ; mission of,
to East Africa and Zanzibar, ii. 67
Frere family, and Freretown, ii. 63
Freretown, freed slave settlement,
i. 3, 4, 43, 170, 290, 335 ; church
dedicated, ii. 63 ; described, i. 38 ;
dormitory system at, i. 184
Furley, Miss, ii. 11, 131
Gabrieli, the Mujasi, and Mwanga's
revolt, ii. 82, 118; defeat of, ii. 85,
188 ; surrender of, 195
Gabula's, visited, ii. 225-26
Galla race, descendants of, i. 94
 slave girls, i. 166-68
Gama, Vasco da, i. 376; pillar of,
Malindi, i. 138, 291
Gayaza mission opened, ii. 32 ; work
at, and visits, 41, 78, 152, 200, 273,

278 ; women missionaries at, ii. 80,
85
German East Africa, famine in, i.
336 ; gain from Uganda railway,
ii. 290, 292
Germany, annexations of, in East
Africa, i. 17, 20
 treaty with England (1890).
effect on Uganda, i. 42-43, 79
 question of calling in, in event
of British abandonment of Uganda,
i. 191-93
 and withdrawal of Nochi mis
sion, i. 186-90
Giriama country described, i. 353-55 ;
visited, i. 353, 355-.: 7
 famine in, i. 16
 hierarchy of, i. 356
 missionary work, i. 4
Gladstone, Rt. Hon. W. E., and re
tention of Uganda, i. 147, 195
Glass, Miss A. B., ii. 269
Gleaner's Union, Uganda saved by,
i. 144
Gordon, Rev. E. C, i. 14, ii. 41, 57 ;
chosen by Mwanga, 13, expelled,
26 ; ordained deacon, i. 77, priest,
122, 128; at Buka-sa with wife, ii.
170, 195-96; on the Lukiko Jat
Busagala, 239-40
 General C. G., fate, i. 265 ;
help given to missionaries, i. 8 ; at
Mruli, ii. 177, 179 ; Stanley's letter
forwarded by, i. 6
Grant, Mr., ii. 85
Greaves, C. H. V., death of, i. 310
Guaso Masa river, caravan massacred
at, ii. 19, 20, 22-23
Gun-running, i. 131
Gun tax, ii. 254, 257
Hall, Rev. Martin J., ii. 11, 159 ;
in Busoga, ii. 216, 219, 221 ; death,
270; on the Industrial Mission, ii.
263-64
Hamond bin Mahomed bin Said,
present Sultan of Zanzibar, in
stalled, ii. 62
Hamshire, Rev. — , i. 319; ordained
priest, i. 336
Hanlon, Bishop (R. C), ii. 22
Hannington, Bishop, consecrated, i.
14, 16 ; work, last journey, and
fate of, 17, 19 ; remains found
and buried, 216-19, re-interred,
227, 277, Tucker's address on,
228-30
Hannington Memorial Church, Mom
basa, ii. 99
Hannyngton, Lieut., besieged at
Kisalizi, ii. 175-76

INDEX

377

Hardinge, Sir A., Consul-General, i.
336, ii. 70, UO
 on the end of I.B.E.A., ii. 10
 views of, on slavery, ii. 65-66,
103
Harrison, Captain, at siege of Luba's,
ii. 91, 94
Hattersley, Mr. C. W., ii. 98 ; founder
of Mengo High School, ii. 328 ; on
Baganda child-students, ii. 152
Health, handicap of, i. 353 et passim
Hill, Mr., i. 43; death of, i. 49, 50,
310
Hirth, Mgr., conferences with, re
Sese, &c., i. 116, 266-69; princes
given up by, i. 268, 270 ; war of
'92 largely due to, i. 174, 176, 177
Hoima station, ii. 172, 180, 182, 332,
354
Holy Ghost, the, Pilkington on, i.
300-2 ; work of, in Uganda, i. 119-
21, 167
Home life, African, ii. 244
 V. Institutional, i. 184-86
" Hongo," i. 73
Hooper, Rev. D., i. 24, 35, 44 ;
with Tucker, i. 40, 46, 53, 72, 129
et seq. ; work at Jilore, i. 166, 290,
ii. 104 ; death of wife, i. 293, 310
Hospitals, see Mengo, Mombasa, cfcc.
Hubbard, Rev. — , at Nasa, i. 287 :
ordained priest, i. 275 ; death of, ii.
98, 113
Hunt, Mr., i. 46 ; death of, i. 76, 310,
ii. 12
Hurditch, Miss R., ii. 269
Hut tax, ii. 254, 257, 261, 265, 267
Ibanda, Mr. Gait murdered at, ii. 246
 slave difficulty at, ii. 246-48
Iganga, chief of, ii. 202
 missionaries at, ii. 221
Imperial British East Africa Com
pany in Uganda, i. 29, 30, 149, ii.
355 ; action in regard to slavery,
ii. 64, 68 ; history of, 177-78, 196-
97, ii. 1, 2, 6-8 ; withdrawal, i.
149, 191, 201, 250, ii. 4-10, flag
hauled down, i. 261, 265 ; summary
of its work, ii. 6-8 ; treaties made
by, i. 177, 291
Industrial Mission {see Borup, and
Mackay), Hall on, ii. 263
Jackson, F. J., Hannington buried
by, i. 216
 Deputy Commissioner, ii. 87,
256
 at Luba's, ii. 88
Jackson & Gedge, Messrs., i. 29, 149
Jilore, Church^Council at, i. 291,

Jilore, unhealthiness of, i. 138, ii. 104,
112
 visits to, i. 138, 166-68, 290,
354, ii. 104, 112
 withdrawal of missionaries
from, ii. 2-4
Johnston, Sir H. H., Special Com
missioner, i. 270 note, ii. 270 ;
financial and land-tenure schemes
of, ii. 253 et seq., treaty of, ii. 266
et seq.
Jones, R. Force, ii. 98, 163
Jones, W. H., native deacon, i. 16,
with Hannington, 18, at Mumia's,
i. 216 ; ordained priest, i. 336
Jordan's Nullah, Victoria Nyanza, i.
71
Jungo, Duta at, i. 306 ; visit to, ii.
273
Kabagambe, fight, ii. 94
Kabarega, King of Bunyoro, ii. 50
 campaign against, i. 304
 conquests of, ii. 175
 Mwanga's escape to, ii. 94-95 ;
joint flight of, 172
 captured, ii. 194, 195, 198-99
Kabarole, capital, Toro, visits to, ii
127, 129, 135, 144, 248-49, 312
 new church at, consecrated, ii.
353
 ordinations at, ii. 354
Kabras, terrible storm in, ii. 23-24
Kafu river, dug-out on, ii. 117
Kaganda, Danieri, help of, ii. 168
Kagwa, Apolo (Sir), Katikiro of
Uganda, a Christian, i. 281, 283,
ii. 8, 118, 135, 342
 advice, on education, ii. 153
 aid in building cathedral, ii.
283, 284
 appointed co-regent, ii. 84
 Bafransa attitude to, i. 266-67
 colleague appointed, i. 267, 270
 conference with, on claims of
Bafransa, i. 244-45
 confirmation of, i. 121
 friendliness of, i. 129, 224, ii. 29,
116
 Kalema defeated by, i. 281 ; at
Kampala fight, i. 175
 knighted, ii. 284
 native missionaries sent by, to
Nkole, ii. 230-31
 political views of, 29
 reconciled to Mwanga, i. 104
 relations with Kakungulu, ii. 277
 restoration of as sole Katikiro,
i. 270 note, ii. 259
 at siege of Luba's, ii. 90
 visit of, to England, ii. 297 et seq.

378

INDEX

Kagwa on the Bible and the Lukiko,
ii. 280-81
 on the guardianship of Kale-
ma's sons, i. 246
 on Mwanga's revolt, ii. 83
Kahaya, King of Nkole, ii. 230, 350 ;
and the missionaries, 231, 239 et
seq., confirmation of, ii. 325
Kahora, see Hoima
Kaidzi, Rev. Yonasani, i. 236 ;
ordained deacon, i. 275, priest,
ii. 55
Kajaya, Busoga chief, ii. 219
Kajaya's, lake journey to, ii. 37 ;
superstition at, 33
Kajuna station, ii. 191
Kakumba, martyr, i. 15
Kakungulu, Simei, chief of Bugerere,
u. 194, 276, 277, 278, 316
Kalema, brief rule of, i. 27, 28, ii. 229
 sons of, heirs to throne, de
tained by Bafransa, i. 244 et seq.
Kalibwani, Stefano, Protestant chief,
and the return of Mwanga, i. 177
Kampala, I.B.E.A. Fort, i. 245, ii. 29,
81 ; attack on, i. 175
Kamrasi, king of Bunyoro, ii. 175
Kamswaga, king of Koki, ii. 83, 192,
193, 236 ; teachers invited by, ii.
186
Kamuhigi, Rev. J., ordained, ii. 354
Kamuli, visited, ii. 319
Kamwakabi, Rev. Samvnli, ii. 42,
190 ; ordained, ii. 269
Kanzu, garment, i. 357, 359, ii. 293
Kapongo, chief at Nasa, ii. 163-64
Kartum, fall of, ii. 179
Kasagama, king of Toro, accusa
tion of, ii. 39; acquittal and
baptism of, 40, 50
 visits to, ii. 41, 44, 49, 123, 127
Kasaka, persecutions at, ii. 45-46
Kasubi, Mutesa's tomb at, i. 124
Katikiro of Uganda, see Apolo Kagwa
 office of, control desired by
Bafransa, i. 266 ; doubled, i. 267,
269, 270 and note
Katonda, Lubare deity, i. 85
Katwe, ii. 129, siege of, 130
Kavirondo, i. 221, ii. 210, 314, 341
 Crabtree's translations into lan
guage of, ii. 316
 Hannington in, i. 18
 natives of, see Wakavirondo
Kaya Giriama, i. 354
Kemp, A. W., ii. 269
Kenia, Mount, i. 206, 208
Khaled, usurping Sultan, Zanzibar,
ii. 60-61
Kheri Karibu, slave-girl, test case of,
ii. 99-103

Kibwezi, Scotch Industrial Mission,
i. 204, ii. 15
Kidong Valley (see also Rift Valley),
i. 210
Kikoma, church at, ii. 276
Kikuyu, ii. 98, 106 ; journey through,
i. 206-8
 Forest, Masai raids near, ii.
16
Kikwabanga, Rev. Nuwa, i. 80 ;" or
dained deacon, ii. 55 ; Weatherhead
saved by, ii. 90
Kilima, hospitable French Fathers at,
i. 163
Kilimanjaro, Mount, i. 158, 163, 206;
discovery of, i. 2 ; mission station
on (Mochi), 17, 161, 186 et seq.,
natives of, i. 159
Kilindini, mission to freed slaves,
i. 289
Kilungu, river bed march at, ii. 113
Kimbugwe, office of , ii. 194; resigned
by Kakungulu, ii. 277
Kinakulya, i. 274, ii. 41 ; mission
at, ii. 32, 46
King's School, Budo, ii. 330
Kioga, Lake, swamps of, ii. 94
Kirk, Sir John, and Zanzibar treaties
on slave trade, i. 3, ii. 67
Kirua, State of, i. 186
Kisahzi, visited, ii. 174, 175-76, 177,
322
Kismayu, slave difficulty at, i. 166-67
 slavery abohshed in, ii. 67
Kisokwe mission, i. 24, 329 ; ordina
tion at, i. 59
Kisumu, railway terminus, ii. 286
Kitaimba, king of Bunyoro, ii. 172-
73 ; baptism of, ii. 180
Kitakwenda, scenery in, ii. 248
Kitching, Rev. A. L., ii. 336
Kivebulaya, Apolo, ii. 127, 139, 248 ;
trial of, ii. 141 ; tribute to, 141-42
Kiwavu, Rev. Josuwa, deacon, ii.
200-1
Kawewa, brief rule of, i. 26, 27, ii.
229
Kizito, Rev. Yosuja, ordained, ii. 269
 Zakaria, chief of Budu, i. 109,
ii. 232; Kangao, ii. 174; ap
pointed co-regent of Uganda, ii.
84; biography, i. 112; confirma
tion, i. 121 ; made lay reader, i. 112;
ordained deacon, i. 236, 275
Koki, evangelisation of, ii. 186 et seq.
 Baganda teachers in, 236-37
 mission station in, ii. 32, 78, 83,
192
 scenery in, ii. 237
 visits to, ii. 192, 236, 323, 350,
354

INDEX

379

Kome Island, i. 301, ii. 41, 160, 201,
305
Krapf, Johann Ludwig, work of, in
East Africa, i. 1, 2
 Mrs., grave of, i. 1, 2
Kwa-Sakwa, and its chief, i. 215
Kyagwe, mission, i. 255, 272, 303,
ii. 78, 175
Land tenure, Uganda, Johnston's
settlement, ii. 253 et seq.
Languages, multiplicity of, in Africa,
ii. 214
Lay readers, native, i. Ill, 112, 121,
128, 232, 349, 354 ; biographies, i.
Ul ; destruction planned by
Mwanga, i. 25
Leakey, Rev. R. H., ii. 28, 187 ; on
the " revival," i. 303
Lewin, H. B., i. 32, 172 ; on mission
work in Bwekula, ii. 275
Lilwa river, tree bridge over, ii. 19 ;
zebra near, i. 213
Linant de Belief onds, Lieut., murder
of, i. 5, 6
Livingstone, Dr., on slavery, ii. 67
 Robert, servant to three bishops,
i. 54
Lloyd, A. B., ii. 28, 32, 123, 128, 336 ;
in Acholi, ii. 322 ; on Pilkington's
death, ii. 91
Locusts, famine caused by, i. 324, 337
Longonot, volcano, i. 210
Lourdel, M., Roman CathoUc mis
sionary, i. 8, 9
Luba, Busoga chief, ii. 216-17
Luba's, missionaries at, ii. 78, 89, 122,
212 ; siege of, ii. 87-94, 112, 114 ;
visits to, ii. 35, 39, 217, 227
Lubare worship, in Busoga, ii. 213,
219 ; in Toro, ii. 140 ; in Uganda,
i. 12, 13, 84
Lubiri, Mwanga's palace, i. 248
Luganda language (see also Transla
tions), ii. 212, 214, 234, 352
Lugard, Sir F., i. 81, 250, ii. 212 ; in
Uganda, i. 100-1, 125, 173 et seq.,
249 ; Sudanese enlisted by, ii. 86 ;
treaty secured by, i. 100, 101, 149
Lugo, native catechist, i. 319
Lugalama and other martyrs, i. 15 ;
bones found and re-buried, ii. '343-46
Lukiko, the (Church Council), be
ginning of, i. 20, 238-39; work
and value of, i. 240, 255, 276, ii.
78, 118, 147
 or native Parliament, estab
lished, ii. 258-69
 Bible influence on, ii. 280-81,
366; revised constitution, ii. 258-
59

Lulenibo, capital of Nkole, ii. 237, 239
Lunyoro language, ii. 52, 233, 234 ;
preferred in Toro, 352
Lusoga language, ii. 212
Luwero, visited, ii. 322
Lwajali river, crossing of, ii. 320
Lwaki, Rev. Isaka, ordained, i. 200
Macdonald, Captain, i. 201, 214,
277 ; met with, 205 ; Sudanese
troops and, i. 281-85, ii. 87, at
siege of Luba's, ii. 88 et seq.
 inquiry by, on causes of war of
1892, i. 244, 249
Macdonald, Dr., ii. 110
 kindness of, ii. 59
Macdonald, Lieutenant, killed at
Luba's, ii. 93
Machako's, i. 205, 206, ii. 16
M'Gregor, A. W., of Taveta, i. 344
Mackay, Alex., i. 6, 7, ii. 201
 difficulties of, with Roman
Catholic mission, i. 8 et seq.
 industrial training given by,
u. 153
 Mwanga's letter to, i. 27
 ordered to quit, i. 23
 printing press of, i. 254
 teaching of, to Mutesa on
slaves, results, i. 264
 translational work of, i. 11, 30,
no, 113
 on languages, ii. 215
 on Mengo Church Council, i.
238-39
 on persecutions, i. 15
 on women missionaries for
C. Africa, i. 337-38
 death of, and tribute to, i. 30
 grave of, i. 70, 71
Mackay and Ashe, Revs., letter from,
to the faithful under persecution,
1. 21
Mackay, Sembera, native Christian,
i. 109, biography, 112; lay reader,
i. Ul ; member of Lukiko, i. 239 ;
death of, i. 176
Mackenzie, G., of I.B.E.A., and the
freeing of slaves at Rabai, ii. 8, 9 ;
kindness of, i. 138
Mackinnon road, the, ii. 15
Mackinnon, SirW., and I.B.E.A. Co.,
ii. 4, 5, 6 ; and the retention of
Uganda, i. 144
Maddox, H. E., ii. 98 ; translation
work by, ii. 353, 367
Magila, i. 17
Mahoo, see Taveta
" Mailo," 257
MaUndi, visits to, i. 138, 290, ii. 105
Malony, Captain, death of, ii. 94

380

INDEX

Mamboya station, i. 24 ; visits to,
53, 57, 287, 325
Mandara, Idng of Chagga, i. 17, 161
Manners and customs in Uganda, i.
83 et seq., 96 et seq.
Maragote station founded, ii. 341
Marriage, Christian, i. 318-19
Martyrs of Uganda, i. 15, 21, 34, 123-
4, ii. 308-10
 bones found, ii. 344, reburied,
346
Masaba, Bagishu of, ii. 278, 279, 315
 incident near, ii. 315
Masailand, famine in, i. 212
 Hannington in, i. 17
Masai tribe, nomadic habits of, i.
212
 raids on mails, &c., i. 201, 202,
204
 ravages in Giriama, i. 354 ;
in Kikuyu, i. 207 ; in Usakuma,
ii. 162
 small-pox among, i. 207, ii. 16
 warriors, meeting with, i. 211 ;
present life of, ii. 356
Masindi, capital of Bunyoro, ii. 172 ;
visited, ii. 177, 180
Matthews, General Sir Lloyd, ii. 2, 3,
10 ; kindness of, ii. 59
Mau escarpment, i. 214-15
 summit, elevation of, ii. 20
Maungu, ii. 288 ; dead Basoga at,
289
 scenery at, i. 155
 Wateita golgotha near, ii. 108
Mayanja swamp, ii. 45 ; martyrs'
bones near, ii. 344
Mazanza, chiefs at, trouble with, i. 73
Mbaguta, Katikoro of Nkole, ii. 240,
250, 350
Mbale, visit to Kakungulu at, ii. 316
Mbaruk of Mwele, ii. 2
Mboga, visited, ii. 135-39, how Chris
tianised, 139 et seq.
Mbogo, Mohammedan chief, i. 283 ;
captured, ii. 86 ; after life, 280-81,
342
Mcharomo River, i. 330, 335
Medical missions, ii. 156, 271-72
 Cook's, founded, ii. 157 ; value
of, i. 141
 history of, in Uganda, ii. 363-4
Medical training, value of, to mis
sionaries, i. 49
Medicine men, the, in Nkole, ii. 231,
240
Meli, king of Chagga, visited, i.l61-G2
 German attack on, i. 186-87
Meliare, chief of Merangu, visited,
i. 163
Mengo, arrival of Tucker at, i. 82

Mengo, cathedral church at, i. 109,
ii. 361 ; rebuilt, i. 181-83, 226 ;
blovpn down, ii. 33 ; rebuilt of
brick, ii. 282 et seq., 337, 338-40,
 Church Council, see Lukiko
 diamond jubilee celebrations at,
ii. 81
 fighting at (1892), i. 174 et seq.
 High School, ii. 328, 330, 343
 memorable Easter baptism at,
i. 179
 mission hospital opened at, ii.
80 ; new hospital at, ii. 270-72,
342 ; destroyed by lightning, ii. 301
 mission premises at, 1890, i. 107
 missionary conference at, ii.
202-5
 missionary reinforcements at,
1893, ii. 28-9
 notable Trinity Sunday at, ii. 55
 welcome at, to returned
Katikiro, ii. 300-1
Menzies, Rev. — , at Freretown, i. 4
Merangu, i. 162, 163-64
Mgunda Mkali forest, i. 6, 66-69, 135,
287
Ministry, native, essentials in, 233-38 ;
first seven chosen, 235-36
Mika Sematimba, member of Lukiko,
i. 239
Millar, Rev. Ernest, ii. 78, 112;
ordained priest, i. 275
 with the Katikiro in England,
ii. 297 et seq.
 work in claims registration, ii.
269
 on Baganda eagerness for books,
i. 231-32
Mirambo of Unyamwezi, i. 161
Miro, chief of Iganga, ii. 222
Miro's, ii. 33 ; missionaries at, ii. 78
Mission to Uganda, founded, i. 5 ;
history, passim, summaries of work
of, i. 306-16, ii. 355 et seq.
 difficulties with Roman Catho
lic missionaries, i. 8, 11, 12, 25, 27-
30, 102-3, 115-18, 172, 176, 244 et
seq., 266-69
Missionaries, relations of, with home
Governments, Tucker's view, i. 196
 with native churches (see
also Constitution), i. 114, 241
 in relation to politics, specially
in Uganda, i. 125-28, 179-80, 251,
265, ii. 89 ; Times correspondent
on, i. 252, 270, 271, 285
 trials of, the chief, i. 321
 in Uganda, Government refusal
of responsibility for, i. 194 et seq. ;
memorial from, on Slavery in Coast
districts, ii. 70

INDEX

381

Missionaries in Uganda, French (see
Bafransa, French missionaries, and
Roman Catholic)
Missionary spheres, impossibility of
limiting, i. 268-69
 the, true attitude of, to native
Christians, i. 241, ii. 148, and see
Constitution
Missions, Christian, first work of, i.
108 ; ideal, i. 106-7 ; sustaining
motive of, i. 14
Mitate, scenery near, i. 157
Mitiana, in Singo, mission work at,
i. 272-73 ; visits to, ii. 45, 54, 124 ;
church at, dedicated, ii. 270
Mizanza, caravan destroyed near, i.
61-62 ; risks to Tucker's party,
63-64
Mkunazini, U.M.C.A. Station,
Tucker's illness at, i. 333
Mochi mission, i. 164, 344 ; diffi
culties at, i. 186 ; removed to
Taveta, i, 190
Moffat, Dr., i. 259 ; at Kibwezi
mission, i. 204
Mohammed bin Said, Sultan of
Zanzibar, death of, ii. 60
Mohammedan chiefs, Uganda, hos
tility of, i. 26, 90, 173, 280, 284-85,
ii. 97, 229 ; defeat of; i. ?8. 284-85 ;
territory claimed by, i. 280
 revolt, in Busoga, ii. 85
Mohammedanism, influence of, in
Uganda, i. 84, 87-91
Mombasa, described, i. 36 ; end of,
I.B.E.A. rule at, ii. 4-10
 freed slave settlement at, i. 3, 4
 Hannington Memorial Church
at, ii. 99
 Hannington-Parker Church at,
i. 198
 hospital at, i. 141, 166, 290
 judicial controversy at, i. 318
 mission hall at, i. 342, ii. 62
 missionary work at, passim
 new mission organised at, i. 153,
166
Mombasa and the coast districts,
slave question in, ii. 64 et seq.
Moral aspect of Uganda, i. 83, 98
Morris, Mr., i. 311
Motor cars in Uganda, ii. 357
Mpindi's, work at, ii. 253
Mpologoma swamp, ii. 313-4
Mpuku river, crossing of, ii. 134
Mpwapwa mission station, i. 54 ;
foundation of, i. 6 ; Price at, i. 327
et seq.
 vicissitudes of, i. 58 ; visited,
i. 136, 287, ii. 58
Mruli fort, u. 175, 176, 177

Mto-mawe camp, i. 53, ii. 59
Mto-mawe River, see Rocky River
Mtoto Ndi, march to, i. 203
Mudeka, Rev. Nasanieri, ordained,
ii. 55 ; work of, ii. 265
Mugema, the, ii. 231 and note
Mugwanya, Katikiro of Budu, ii. 191 ;
Regent in Uganda, ii. 84
 at opening of High School, ii.
343
Mukasa, Ham, visit of, to England,
ii. 297 ; account by, of the corona
tion, 298
Mukasa, Rev. Henry, ii. 196 ;
ordained, ii. 28, 55
Mukasa, Samwili, chief of Kisetala,
ii. 174 ; letter from, ii. 27 ; or
dained, ii. 55 ; member of Lukiko,
i. 239
Makasa Yusufu, work of, ii. 165
Mumia's and its chief visited, i. 215-
17, ii. 25
 remains of Hannington re
moved from, i. 216-19
 revolting Sudanese at, repelled
by Tomkins, ii. 87, 114
Munyaga, Robert, martyr, i. 21
Munyonyo, i. 81
Murchison Falls, the, ii. 337
Musa Gyabuganda, i. 302, 303
Music, Baganda delight in, i. 98 ;
instruments of, i. 85
Muscat, Sultan of, treaty on Slavery
with, ii. 67
Musoke, Rev. Batolomayo, Protes
tant chief, i. 177 ; ordained, ii. 55
Mutakyala, Rev. Yairo, i. 55 ;
ordination of, i. 236, 275
Mutanda Busoga chief, ii. 201
Mutesa, king (Kabaka) of Uganda,
relations of, with missionaries, i. 7,
8, 11 ; change of religion by, 13 ;
envoys sent by, to England, i. 14 ;
fame of, i. 161; Mackay's teaching
of, as to slaves, i. 264 ; Mwanga's
estimate of, i. 180 ; punishments
by, ii. 34; death of, i. 14; tomb
of, at Kasubi, i. 124
Muyinda, Rev. Aloni, ordained, ii. 269
Muzito, Bugaya chief, ii. 36
Mwaiba Mission, i. 354
Mwanga, king of Uganda, accession
of, i. 14, 15 ; persecutions by,
i. 14, 15, 21 et seq. ; Hannington's
death due to, i. 19 ; Walker
admitted by, i. 24 ; driven from
his throne, i. 25, ii. 229 ; escape
of, letter to Mackay, i. 27, letters
to, from Tucker, i. 41, from Sultan
of Zanzibar, i. 45 ; relations
with I.B.E.A. Co., 29, 30 ; signs

382

INDEX

Lugard's treaty, i. 101 ; visits to,
of Tucker, i. 103, 128 ; flight of,
to Budu, i. 172 ; preceding events,
i. 174, 175 ; return of, to Mengo,
i. 177 ; refused baptism by mis
sionaries, i. 179 ; heirs detained by
Bafransa, i. 244 et seq., letter of,
on this topic, 247 ; at re-inter
ment of Hannington, i. 227-28 ;
letter from, at Ngogwe, ii. 27 ;
birth of son to, ii. 79-80 ; attends
Diamond Jubilee celebrations, ii. 8 1 ;
revolt of, and fUght, U. 81, to Ger
mans, 84, 188, to Kabarega, 94,
95, 117, 172; capture of, ii. 194,
199 ; after Ufe, baptism, and death
of, u. 200
Mwanza, Mwanga a prisoner at, ii. 84,
85, 188
Mwira, Rev. Yokana, lay reader and
chief, i. 113 ; ordained, 236, 275
Naboa, Elgon seen from, ii. 314
Nabumale, Bagishu of, ii. 278
Nairobi, u. 113
Naivasha, Lake, i. 209, 210, ii. 18
Nakanyonyi, visits to, ii, 201, 270,
311
Nakiwafu, Rev. Nuwa, deacon, ii.
200, 201
Nakuru, Lake, zebra near, i. 213
Nalinya, the, i. 124
Namasole, the, of Toro, ii. 49, 51 ;
importance of, 52
Namirembe Hill, Mengo mission
station founded, i. 28 ; a great
service at, ii. 29-30
 new church on, i. 181, 226
 re-interment of Hannington
on, i. 227-28 ; Tucker's address,
228-30
 school on, ii. 152
Nandi, revolting Sudanese at, ii. 87
 country, risks in, ii. 20
Nasa, mission at, i. 24, 286, ii. 78 ;
church and schools at, 165, 167 ;
death at, of Nickisson, u. 57 ;
visits to, i. 72, ii. 159
Natete, Mohammedan head-quarters,
i. 283 ; mission at, ruined, i. 28
Naval courtesies, i. 43, 44, 46, 137,
193
Ndalake, chief of Kasaka, perse
cutor, ii. 45
Ndeje, ii. 273, 311, 322; dedication
of church at, ii. 201
Nelson, Captain, tribute to, i. 207
Nera, mutiny of porters at, i. 133
Ngogwe, letters received at, from
Mwanga, ii. 26-27 ; from Samwili
Mukasa, ii. 27-28

Ngogwe, ordination at, u. 35 ; school
at, ii. 152
 visited, ii. 35, 115, 216, 273
 women missionaries welcomed
at, ii. 25
Ngonyo's village, slavery at, i. 356
Nickisson, Mr., death of, ii. 57-58
Nikodemo, head of Lukiko, i. 129 ;
at Busagala, i, 239
 chief of Kazi, ii. 189
Nile, the, i. 222, 298, ii. 178, 319;
falls, i. 223, u. 337 ; swamp of, ii.
311
" Nineteen hundred " an epoch-
making year, ii. 253 et seq.
Nkole, Christian refugees at, i. 27, 34,
112, u. 239 etseq.
 Christianisation of, ii. 231 et seq.
 described, ii. 232
 king of, see Kahaya, and Ntale
 people of, see Banyankole
 visited, ii. 232 et seq., 348, 350
Ntale, king of Nkole, u. 230, 287
Nviri Bulange, Industrial Mission at,
u. 263-64
Nyanza Mission, staff of, u. 76-77
Nzoi, Macdonald met at, i. 203
Ojiqi, AchoU chief, ii. 332
O'Neill, Mr., fate of, i. 7, 70
Opedi, ii. 143
Ornaments, Acholi, ii. 333 ; Waki
kuyu, i. 208 ; Wasukuma, u. 165
Owin, Acholi chief, ii. 335
Paunceforte, Sir Julian, despatch
on runaway slaves, u. 64
Parker, Bishop, consecration and work
in Uganda, i. 23 ; death, i. 24-25 ;
grave, i. 70, 72
Parker, W. E., missionary, ii. 62
Patigo, mission at, ii. 334, 336
Pease, J. A., m.p., and slavery in
East Africa, ii. 72
Perrin, Miss, i. 311
Persecutions by Mwanga, i. 6, 15, 20,
21, Ul, 123-24, 275, 344, 346, ii.
200-1
Peters, Dr. Carl, i. 186 ; treaty made
by, with Mwanga, i. 28
PhilUps, C. J., u. 269
PickthaU, Mrs., missionary, ii. 62
Piggott, Mr., u. 13
Pike, Miss, n. 353
 Rev. A. J., u. 28, 32, 54, 78
Pilgrim, Miss, ii. 11, 80; skilled
nurse, 15
Pilkington, G. L., missionary life of,
i. 35, 76, 236, 273, ii. 17, 18, 62,
80, 89; in Koki, 187, 189; help
asked by, ii. 83

INDEX

383

Pilkington, G. L., spiritual struggles
of, i. 300-3
 teachers sent out by, i. 304-5
 translational work of, i. UO,
112, 113, 232, ii. 18, 93, 367
 visit to Mwanga, on baptism, i.
180 ; death, ii. 18, 104
 monument to, ii. 284
 tribute to, ii. 93-94
 on work in 1894, i. 306
Polygamy, Arab arguments on, i. U
Portal, Captain Raymond, i. 259 ;
death, 274 ; grave, 277
Portal, Sir Gerald, Special Mission of,
to Uganda, i. 250, 258 et seq., 211 ;
report of, 293, 295 ; results, ii.
296, ii. 42, 86, 359
 conference with, and with Hirth,
i. 266 et seq.
 correspondence with, i. 273 ;
on Government decision not to
afford protection to missionaries
in Uganda, i. 194-98 ; on retention
of Uganda, i. 190-93, 260-61 ; on
withdrawal of Mochi Mission, i.
187-89
 missionary influence enlisted
by, i. 265-66
 death of, i. 278, 295
 on Uganda sunsets, i. 93
Porters, difficulties with, i. 135, 214-
15, ii. 20 ; replaced by railway, ii.
290
Postal system, Uganda, u. 119, 357
Prayer, a girdle of, i. 130
 weeks of, ii. 171, 347
Price, Rev. J. C, of Mpwapwa, i. 24,
59, 136, 325 ; heroism and death, i.
327-28, 335
 on famine in Usagara, i. 336-37
Price, Rev. W. S., ii. 91, and Frere
town, i. 3, 4 ; on freeing of slaves
at Rabai, ii. 9
Princes, difficulty about, i. 244, 268
Protestant chiefs, slaves freed by,
i. 261 et seq.
Protestant and Roman Catholic
missions compared, i. 102-3
Protestants {see also Bangereza),
position of, in Uganda, i. 173 et seq.
Purvis, Rev. J. B., ii. U, 154
Pygmy catechumen at Mboga, ii. 142
Rabai, attacked by Mbaruk, ii. 2
 church at, chief builder of,
ii. 8
 founded, i. 2, Rebmann's
labours at, i. 3
 ordination at, ii. 62-63
 slaves at, freed by I.B.E.A. Co.,
ii. 7-9

Rabai, visits to, i. 141, 290, 342, ii.
14, 62
Railway, see Uganda railway
Rainfall of Uganda, i. 93
Rainy season, Acholi country, ii.
334
Rakai, missionaries at, ii. 236
Rakeri, heroine of sleeping sickness,
ii. 308
Ramsay, Miss A. Wardlaw, i. 311
Raschid, Liwali of Takaungu, ii. 1
Rattray, Dr., u. U, 15, 21, 57, 58,
157, 363
Rawson, Admiral Sir H., ii. 3 ;
bombards Zanzibar, ii. 60-61
 destroys Mwele, ii. 2
 visits Rabai, u. 14
Rebmann, John, missionary work
and journeys of, i. 2, 3
Regents, for infant Kabaka, ii. 84
Religions (superstitions) of the
Bagishu, ii. 279 ; in Bunyoro, ii.
173 ; in Busoga, ii. 36, 38
Religions in Uganda, see Christianity,
Lubare, Mohammedanism, Roman
CathoUcism
Rest day and Rest month, Uganda,
i. 84
Ribe, runaway slaves at, freeing of
by I.B.E.A., ii. 7-9
Rift, or Kidong VaUey, i. 210; ii. 114,
288
Ripon Falls, scenery at, i. 223
Robinson, Miss, ii. 269 ; escape of, ii.
324
Robson, Mr. and Mrs., i. 311
" Rocky River," i. 325, 332
Rodd, Reimell (Sir), action of, at
Zanzibar, ii. 60
Roman Catholic missionaries and
natives, Uganda (see Bafransa),
poUcy of, and its results, i. 8, U,
12, 25, 27-30, 102-3, 115-18, 172,
176, 244 et seq., 266-69
Roscoe, Rev. J., i. 236, ii. 28, 56, 57,
98, 187, 212 ; ordained pripst, i.
275 ; and others during Sudanese
Mutiny, i. 281-85; on the "re
vival," i. 303
Rosebery, Earl of, views of, on Pro
tectorate, i. 295-96
Rowling, Rev. F., ii. 212 ; ordained
priest, ii. 35 ; translational work
of, ii. 367
Rubaga HiU, fight at, i. 283
Rubeho Pass, i. 58, 331
Ruwenzori, Mount, journeys on, ii.
129 ei seq.
 views of, ii. 47, 48-49, 248
iJttWcmzoW, mission launch, ii. 123, 159,
160, 168

384

INDEX

Saadani, i. 47, 60
Sabaki river, i. 166, 354
Sadler, Colonel J. Hayes, Commis
sioner, n. 301-2 ; tribute to, 332
SagaUa, Wray's work at, ii. 107-8
Salisbury, Marquis of (the late), re
lations of, with I.B.E.A. Co., ii.
4 et seq.
 views of, on Slavery in British
East Africa, ii. 70 ; on retention of
Uganda, i. 147 ; on suggested
entry of Germany to Uganda, i. 192
Samwili Mukasu, member of Lukiko,
i. 239
Sayid AU bin Sayed, Sultan of
Zanzibar, letter from, to Mwanga,
i. 45, 104
Scott, Mr., at Luba's, ii. 87, death
of, 122
Sebwato, Nikodemo, confirmed, i.
121 ; ordained, i. 236, 275 ; offices
of, i. 255 ; political aid of, ii. 230 ;
ruler of Kyagwe, invitation of, to
missionaries, i. 255 ; tribute to, ii.
26
Sedulaka, Zabuna Makwata, of
Mboga, u. 139, 148 ; tribute to,
141-42
Sekibobo, the, of Uganda, i. 224
Selim Bey, mutiny of, i. 281-84 ;
death of, u. 86-87
Selim, chief of Takaungu, death of,
u. 1
Sematimba, Mika, lay reader, i. Ul,
ii. 26 ; biography, 112; member of
Lukiko, i. 239
Semfuna, Rev. Tomasi, ii. 172, 180,
187 ; biography of, ii. 200-1 ;
member of Luldko, i. 239
 ordination of, i. 236, n. 200
Semler, Rev. Ishmael, native pastor
at Freretown, i. 16, 38
Semliki Forest, ii. 136 ; pygmies of,
at Mboga, ii. 142
 river, ii. 135, 136 ; crossing of,
138
 valley, hot springs in, ii. 137-8
Sentries, how kept awake, i. 203
Sere, Rev. A., ordained, ii. 354
Serengete plains, i. 157, 158 ; herds
of game and ostriches on, ii. 108-9
Seruwanga, martyr, i. 15
Sese Islands, French mission on, i.
131 ; difficulties with, i. 116, 217
 Mwanga's flight to, i. 27
 scenery of, ii. 80, 234-35
 visits to, n. 195-06
Seychelles Islands, death of Mwanga
in, u. 200
Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar,
and the slave trade, i. 3, ii. 67

Sezibwa river, ii. 320
Shaw, Downes, i. 16
Shimba, visits to, i. 1»4
Siegal, Lieut., and the Wagogo, i. 62,
Sinclair, Mr., and Hannington Memo
rial Church, ii. 99
Singo, country, i. 2b7-i.«
 mission station m, i. 270, 272-74,
n. 48, 78 . . o
 ^ge of native teachers in, i. 304
SitweU, Captain, u. 141
Skeens, Rev. S. R., ii. 221 ; ordained
priest, ii. 200
Slavery and the Slave trade, in Coast
districts and Uganda, i. 3, 9, 89,
264, 279, 356, ii. 64-66 ; abohtion
decided on by Uganda chiefs, i.
261-fi3 ; history of, ii. 66 et seq.,
test case, u. 99 et seq., Uganda
railway as affecting, i. 299, u. 298-
99
Slave(s), free girl claimed as, i. 166-68
 freed, chief's son, u. 237, 244-
4 5 ; settlements of, at Freretown,
q.v., i. 3 ; at Kilindini, i. 289
 runaway, British declaration
on, ii. 72 ; freed by I.B.E.A. Co.,
ii. 7-9 ; problem of, ii. 64, 71
Slave-womnn, incident of, Ibanda,
ii. 246-48
Sleeping sickness, causes, course,
ravages, symptoms, treatment, &c.,
ii. 303 et seq., effect on the Church,
ii. 307 ; a heroine of, ii. 308-10
Smith, Dr., death of, i. 7, 168
 Colonel Eric, C.B., i. 171-72,
245
 Colonel (Sir) C. Euan, i. 141,
ii. 9, 64 ; action of, as to slavery, ii.
^' 67 ; and wife, hospitality of, i. 40,
' 44
 F. C, i. 221, 311, ii. 211-12
 Rev. A. G. and wife, i. 43 ;
of Jilore, i. 138, 140
 Shergold, i. 6 ; fate of, 7
Smythies, Bishop, death of, i. 317
Social aspects of Uganda, i. 83 et seq.,
98
Somali chiefs, and slave traffic, i.
166-68
Spiritual experience, varieties of, i.
119-20
Stanley, Sir H. M., visit of, to Uganda,
and its results, i. 5, 6, 34, n. 50,
230
Steamers on Victoria Nyanza, ii. 286,
291, 341
SteggaU, Rev. A. G., i. 169, 186 et
seq., 344
Stock, Eugene, ii. 297

INDEX

385

stokes, Charles, well-known trader,
aid from, as to journey, i. 38, 40-41,
47 ; carriers of, murdered, i. 62, 63 ;
influence of, with natives, i. 64,
134 ; Usongo, head-quarters of,
i. 69
Sudanese in Uganda, difficulties
caused by, i. 243, 260-61, 280-81 ;
the mutiny, 282, ii. 18, 86 et seq. ;
quelled, 284-85, ii. 122
Sugden, Rev. H. R.,*i. 305
Sunsets and sunrises of Uganda,
beauties of, i. 92 ; Portal on, i.
92-93
Superstitions, see Religions
Swahili caravan, raided by Wateita,
i. 165
 language, drawbacks to, ii. 215,
216
Swamps.i. 92, ii. 47, 51, 55, 94,124-25,
313
Synod of Uganda, ii. 348
Tabalo, chief of Mboga, ii. 139, con
verted, 140
Tabingwa's, chief's wives at, ii. 223-25
Tabora, i. 59
Takaungu, rebelUon, ii. 1, 2, 13
Taro water-holes, i. 154, 344, ii. 107,
288
Taveta, Mochi mission withdrawn to,
i. 190 ; station at, i. 344, events
at, 346-49
 visit to by rail, ii. 108 ; new
church at, UO, Ul ; British
officials at, UO
Taveta forest, i. 157, 158-59, 160
Taylor, Miss, ii. 62, 80
Taylor, Rev. W. E. (and wife), i. 4,
16, 289, 354
 on Giriama, i. 353-55
Tegart, Rev. H. W., ii. 62
 ordained priest, ii. 170
 sends missionaries to Bwekula,
ii. 274
Teita, visits to and work at, i. 17,
343, 350
Teita Hills, scenery near, i. 155-56
Teita-Ukambani, famine in, i. 16
Ternan, Colonel, ii. 174; and
Mwanga's revolt, ii. 83, 188
Telegraph introduced into Uganda,
ii. 357
Thomsett, Miss, ii. U, 86, 152 ;
skilled nurse, 15 x i. >
Thruston, Major, at siege of Luba s,
ii. 87 ; death, 89, 97, 122
Times correspondent, at Mengo, i. 250,
252 ; and the missionaries, 253-54,
265, 285
Timpson, Miss, ii. 62, 80
II

Tobin, Miss, i. 290
Tomkins, Stanley, Mumia's saved by,
ii. 87, 114
Toro, geological formation in, U. 49
— — king of, ii. 351, 353
 Medical Mission in, ii. 364
 mission estabhshed in, ii. 50,
51 et seq., 78, 128 ; statistics, 145
 natives, see Batoro
 troubles in, ii. 34, 39-40
 visits to, ii. 44, 123, 245, 270,
312, 348, 349, 351, 354
 women missionaries in, ii. 269
Trade, benefited by the railway, ii.
290-91, by the steamers, 292
Translational work, i. U, 30, UO, 113,
215, 252, ii. 18, 93. 204, 316, 351,
367
Travelling, past and present, ii. 356—
57, 286, 288
Treaties, with Sultan of Muscat, on
slavery, ii. 67
 with Sultan of Zanzibar, on
slavery, ii. 67
 with Uganda, see I.B.E.A. Co.'s,
Johnston's, Lugard's, Peters',
Portal's
Tsavo river, joys of, i. 200-1
Tsetse fly, and sleeping sickness, ii.
304^5
Tucker, Bishop, consecration of, i. 31 ;
subsequent work in Uganda and
B.E. Africa, i. 31 et passim
 catechism compiled by, i. 256
 at C.M.S. house, with Katikiro,
u. 297
 correspondence with Portal,
i. 187 et seq., 260
 difficulties of, as to slaves and
slavery, i. 166 etseq., 262; ii. 64 et
seq., case of Kheri Karibu, ii. 100
et seq., 246-48
 division of diocese secured by,
ii. 73-74
 efforts to formulate Church
constitution, i. 115, 146 et seq.,
202 et seq., 341, 348 ; views on
church government, i. 114, 241
 excerpts from diary of, i. 319-
20, ii. 11-13, 16, 25 et seq., 237
 first journey by Uganda rail
way, u. 107
 Hannington's remains found
by, i. 217, and re-buried, 227
 home-work of, for Uganda,
missionary and pohtical, i. 142 e«
seq., 293
 interviews with Mwanga, i. 103,
106, 128
 legal controversy of, re divorce,
Mombasa, i. 318
2b

386

INDEX

Tucker, Bishop, continued —
_  letters to, from Mwanga, ii. 27,
from S. Mukasa, ii. 27
 letters from, on Slavery in B.E.
Africa, ii. 09, 71
 to Capt. Williams on
Bafransa difficulties, i. 251
 to Walker on Church
CouncU, i. 240
 meetings of, with Emin Pasha,
1. 79, 132
 pastoral addresses, letters, and
sermons by, i. 182, u. 9, 11, 74
 on Baganda evangelists,
il. 77
 on death of Mrs. Hooper,
i. 293
 on education, ii. 205
 on five months' work in
Uganda, i. 279
 on reburial of Hannington,
i. 228
 on the situation in 1898,
"¦ 121
 on women missionaries, i.
347
 share of, in politics of Uganda
(see also correspondence), i. 105,
142 et seq., 244 et seq., 226 et seq.,
ii. 254 et seq.
Uoanda, see also Bafransa, Baganda,
Berkeley, Hardinge, I.B.E.A. Co.,
Jackson, Johnston, Lugard, Mac
donald, Missionaries, Mwanga,
Portal, Roman Catholics, tfcc.
 as affected by Anglo-German
treaty, 42-43
 British political relations with,
i. 42-^3, 84, 91, 101, 248-49; reten
tion question, i. 142-45, 171, 190-!)3
et seq., 201, 260 ; flag hoisted,
i. 261, 265, 295, ii. 4, 10 ; ad
ministration formed, i. 277, 295
 troubles with Sudanese, i. 280
et seq. ; Protectorate discussed, i.
295, u. 4, declared, i. 276, countries
included in, ii. 356 ; Mwanga's re
volt, ii. 82 ct seq. ; present king
proclaimed, ii. 84 ; Sudanese re
volt, ii. 86 et seq., capture of
Mwanga, ii. 198 ; revision of
administration, ii. 253 et seq., some
defects in, ii. 302
 capital and labour in, 96
 cattle disease and plague in, 125
 climate, healthiness of, ii. 81
 cotton growing in, ii. 365
 first known to the world, 3
 history of, see British pohtical
relations supra, and mission infra

Uganda, justice in, ii. 135
 mission in, of C.M.S., founda
tion of, i. 5, history of, passim,
summary of work of, i. 306-16,
ii. 355 et seq.
 difficulties with Roman
Catholic missionaries, i. 8, ii. 12,
25, 27-30, 102-3, 115-18, 172, 176,
244 et seq., 266-i;!»
 . missionaries and politics in, i.
179-80, 251, 265 ; author's view,
125- ::8; Times correspondent on,
i. 252, 270, 271, 285
 moral, social, and physical
aspect of, i. 83, et seq.
 native church in, see Constitu
tion, Lukiko, Martyrs, IVUssion
Persecution, dbc, and passim
 progress in, material, &c., ii.
118 ei Uq.
Uganda Railway, the, cost, history,
prospects, and value of, i. 190,
297-99, n. 98, 107, 253, 280 et seq.,
295, 297-08 ; scenery and scenes
along, ii. 288-90
Ugogo (see also Wagogo), i. 61 ;
famine in (1895), ii. 32
Ukambani, i. 2, 205, 206
Ukambani mountains, i. 155
Ukerewe Island, missionaries mur
dered in, i. 70, 71, ii. 7
Ukerewe, Lake, 2
Universities Mission (see also Magila
and Mkumazini), death ot Bishop
Smythies, i. 317
Unyamwezi, i. 131 ; famine in (1895),
u. .¦(2
Unyanguira, i. 136
Urima, country, i. 69, notives, 73
Usagara, famine in, i. 324—27, 336
 mission in, i. 24
 misjion (with Nasa), statistics
of, 1890-94, i. 316
 transferred to Bishopric
of B.E. Africa, n. 73-74
— — visited, i. 322 et seq.
Usambara, i. 2
Usambiro station, i. 26, 122, 254,
visited, i. 71, 104
Usongo, i. 69, 134
Usukuma, character of country, i. 69
Usumau natives, shy and curious,
i. 73
Ututuru WeUs, i. 67
Uwe, Sheikh, and the slave-girl, ii.
100
Uyui, i. 24
Verbi, Mr., i. 344, u. 109, UO
Victoria, Quoon, Diamond Jubilee of,
ii. 81 ; death of, ii. 273

INDEX

387

Victoria Nyanza, discovery of, i. 3, 5
 first missionaries at, i. 7
 islands (see also Sese, dbc),
missionary among, ii. 41, 78 ;
sleeping sickness in, ii. 305
 scenery of, i. 70, 222
 voyages on, canoe, i. 77, 131,
285, u. 35 et seq., 159, 168, 189 ;
steamer, ii. 286, 291, 341
Vikitoria, Lubuga of Bunyoro, u.
180
 , Namasoli or Queen-mother,
Toro, U. 51, 52, 127
Villages, native, sites of, i. 58
Villiers, Lieutenant, i. 259
Visitations, episcopal (passim), de
ductions from, ii. 349
Voi, ii. 98, 107

Wadelai, Sir S. and Lady Baker re
membered near, ii. 336
Wagiriama, the, i. 355 ; Christians
among, i. 168 ; drunkenness among
i. 169
Wagogo, the, and circumcision, i.
329
Wakavirondo, the, i. 219 ; peculi
arities of, i. 220
Wakikuyu, the, i. 207
Wakitosh rebellion, suppression of,
u. 24
Wakoli, Busoga chief, death of, i. 221,
ii. 212
Wakoli'8, drunken chief at, i. 221-22
 sleeping sickness at, ii. 305
Walker, Ve.n. R. H., i. 24, 25, u. 28,
78 ; escapes of, i. 179, ii. 191 ; and
the Luldko, i. 240 ; appointed Arch
deacon of Uganda, i. 288 ; invalided
ii. 270 ; on missionary efforts of
Church Council, ii. 78-79
Waluleta, visited, ii. 174
Wamala, Lake, i. 274, ii. 45
Vv'amala, Rev. Yoeri, ordained, ii.
269
Wanandi, massacre by, of caravan
at Guaso Masa, ii. 19, 20, 22-23
Wandengi, friendly Kikuyu chief, i.
208
Ward, B., death of, i. 335
Wasukuma, the, u. 165 ; canoes of,
i. 80
 intellectual inferiority ot, ii.
161-62
Wateita, the, i. 156-67 ; golgotha of,
ii. 108 ; raid by, i. 164-05
Watson, Mr., killed at Luba's, ii.
122
Weatherhead, Rev. H. T. C, ii.
269

Weatherhead, Rev. H. W., u. 62, 80,
216, 270, 329 ; on his escape from
Luba's, u. 89-90
West (trader), murder of, ii. 20
Whitehouse, A. W., ii. 02
Wigram, Rev. B. E., u. 62, 80
Wild animals in payment of hut tax,
u. 265
Williams, Captain, i. 176; correspon
dence with, as to negotiation with
Bafransa, i. 251 ; political difficul
ties of, i. 243 et seq.
Wilson, Rev. Allen, in Busoga, ii. 216,
221
 C. T., i. 6, 7, 14
 George, Acting Commissioner,
n. 29, 81, 83, 341 ; suppresses
Busoga revolt, ii. 85-86
Wilson, N. A., at Luba's, ii. 87
Wolfendale, Dr., i. 50
Women, Bahima, ii. 233
 Basoga, chief's wives, U. 223-25
 status of, Lunyoro speaking
countries, ii. 52
 work amongst, at Mengo, L
254
Women missionaries, Mackay on,
i. 337-38
 in Mombasa, i. 289
— — sphere of, i. 338-40
 in Uganda, i. 340, u. U, 25, 28,
78, 80, 269, 331
 educational work of, ii. 152,
330-31
Wood, Rov. A. N., i. 24, 53, 57 ; or
dained priest, 59 ; on famine in
Usagara, i. 336
 Mr. and Mrs., i. 325
Wultrum, Lieut., death of, i. 187
Wray, Mr. and Mrs., of Teita, i. 17,
157, 342, 343, 351
 at Mombasa, i. 289; work of,
at SagaUa, ii. 107-8
Wright, Dr. Gaskoin, i. 311, ii. 157,
201, 363
 Rev. F. H.,ii. U, 164; ordained
priest, ii. 58
Wyatt, Miss, Jilore, i. 292, 325, u. 2

Zakariya, Kizito, member of Lu
kiko, i. 239
Zanzibar, bombarded by Rawson,
ii. 60-61
 British protection established
over, i. 42
 visits to, i. 39, 40, 137, 184,
318
Zanzibar, Bishop of (Dr. Hine), at
Mengo, ii. 343; at finding of martyr
remains, 345

388

INDEX

Zanzibar, Cathedral, site of, ii. 67
 Sultanate, slavery in, ii. 67 ;
treaties on, i. 3, ii. 67
 Sultans of (see Abdul Aziz,
Mohammed bin Said, Sayid Ali bin
Sayed, Seyd Burgash), gift to
C.M.S. of cocoa-nut plantation, i.
141

Zanzibar, Sultan of, and the end of
the I.B.E.A. Co.,. ii. 10
 present Sultan installed, ii. 62,
decrees of, on slavery, ii. 67, 68,
17
Ziba, mission station, Kyagwe, i.
255
Ziwani. ii. 17. 21

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