? , f^GANS

T5he PAN AMERICAN UNION
JOHN BARRETT : : Director General
FRANCISCO J. YANES : Assistant Director

u

LIMA
THE CITY OF THE KINGS

Reprinted from the March, 1918, issue of
the Bulletin of the Pan American Union

WASHINGTON
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
1918

!

A* I H r iv I ih'

INGS1

"In awlul pride, enthroned above the skies,
Peaks upon peaks in matchless grandeur rise;
'Mid frowning glaciers on whose snowy crest,
The savage vulture builds its craggy nest."
WRITTEN long ago, the thoughts of the poet lose none of
their charm by the passing of the years. The majestic
mountains, the clearest of skies, the dormant wealth,
the romance, the locked mysteries of the ages, all abound
in the land of Peru. They awe, charm, and inspire us to-day as they
did Pizarro and his little band on that fateful journey up the moun
tains to meet the Inca chieftain at Cajamarca. Indeed, Peru appeals
to the present-day visitor just as potently perhaps as did the ruined
Andean cities mystify the Incas when the latter race first roamed
amid the fastnesses of the great mountains.
Interesting it would undoubtedly be if we could turn back the pages
of the centuries and see the builders laboring at Cuzco, at Pachacamac,
at Chan-Chan, on Titicaca's isles, all within the present bounds of
Peru. But pre-Inca life is a silent chapter and we walk through the
streets of their crumbling cities mystified at ancient accomplishment.
The Incas, who knew nothing of the people who had preceded them,
had been living in Peru for 500 years before the appearance of
Pizarro in 1531. The former are believed to have numbered five or
six million people at the time the "pale faces " arrived on their shores,
fulfilling an Inca tradition and fear that some day men with beard on
their faces would come from over the seas to take their lands.
The vast area known as Peru at the time of Inca civilization
stretched from Colombia to northern Chile and Argentina. Even
to-day Peru covers an area equal to Texas, New Mexico, Arizona,
Nevada, and Utah combined, or to be more specific in figures, about
679,600 square miles. This extensive territory comprises three dis
tinct geographical regions — the dry coastal lands, varying in width
from 20 to 80 miles; the lofty mountainous section, which in
recent years has been crossed by the world's highest railroad; and the
vast and little known region lying east of the Andes. The popula
tion of the country is about 4,500,000.
Comparatively few foreigners see interior regions of Peru to-day;
but a vast majority of those who voyage up and down the Pacific pay
brief visits to Lima, the City of the Kings, where fragments of the
' By William A. Reid, Pan American Union stafl.

A GLIMPSE OF CALLAO, LIMA'S PORT

*>. ,,- .„,th. loarii™ maritime nations of the world are usually found in the harbor. Callao, which is only 8 miles from Lima, is often referred to as the "down
In normal times the ships of the lea^™»™=« ofthTperuvfan capital Many business men live in Lima and have their offices in the port.

Photo by Underwood & Underwood. L  [_. ~^j ..
GENERAL VIEW OF LIMA FROM THE HILL OF SAN CRISTOBAL.
The winding drive from the heart of Lima to the top of this hill provides a most attractive view of
the city and environs. Near the center of the picture we have a glimpse of the Rimac River, flowing
with cool water from the snowy mountains. The Plaza Mayor may be located by the twin towers
of the cathedral. The large circle on the left is the bullring, one of the largest in the world.

6 lima: the city of the kings.
ages1 stand side by side with those that are among the world's most
modernizing influences of the present. It is of the city rather than
of the country that we write, but so closely is the building of the
capital connected with the history and progress of the country that
descriptions have a tendency to merge into one composite whole.
Peru is a land of tropical sunshine, and along its 1,500 miles of
coastal plain rain rarely falls. Yet, if the traveler happens to reach
the leading port of the Republic, Callao, situated about the midway
point on its coast, between the months of June and November, he is
likely to encounter fogs or mist, and as the ship casts anchor the
novice might express surprise as to why the master anchors at sea.
"When the mists have cleared away," however, Callao looms on the
near horizon, and in the distance the mountains may be discerned
towering toward the skies.
In arriving at Callao from the north or from the south we have
voyaged on the bosom of the Antarctic current, which cools the Peru
vian coastal plain somewhat like the Gulf stream provides warmth
for the British Isles. Only a few degrees south of the Equator is
central Peru, but the northward-flowing sea current and the elevated
mountains are responsible for a most delightful climate, the hottest
days of summer (December to May) rarely registering a temperature
higher than 80° F., or in winter lower than 60° F., in the vicinity of
Lima. The port of Callao is only 8 miles distant from the capital of the
Republic. The former has the most modern docking facilities along
the west coast of South America (Valparaiso under construction),
and many ships tie up at the piers and land passengers and freight
directly on terra firma. Callao has about 35,000 population and is
a busy, cosmopolitan city. Many persons who have commercial
interests there maintain their residences in Lima, so that the port in
many respects might aptly be termed the "down town" district of
Lima. There are three methods of transportation between the two
cities, being both steam and electric lines and the ancient public
highway. The visitor naturally chooses the electric line which has
its terminus near the water front, and half an hour later arrives in
the City of the Kings. The electric station in the capital stands on
a broad plaza, from which automobiles or carriages are available for
the short ride to Lima's leading hotel, adjoining the Plaza Mayor,
the latter being one of the oldest landmarks of the city.
The City of the Kings, which is now generally known by the mod
ern name of Lima, is located in an undulating valley which extends
inland from the ocean for 50 miles or more to the foothills of the
Andes, although numerous mountain spurs rise here and there about
' Deposited in the National Museum.

A GENERAL VIEW OF LIMA AS THE CITY APPEARED SOME YEARS AGO.
The large building in the foreground is the cathedral. Since this photograph was made the scene has been completely changed, the small trees have matured, many
streets have been paved, sidewalks laid, and new and higher buildings are now in evidence.

PASEO COLON, ONE OF LIMA'S NEW AND ATTRACTIVE AVENUES.
This new avenue extends nearly a mile and terminates in a modern circle, from which radiate other streets and avenues. On the left of the picture we have a view of a portion of the National
Museum an institution which houses some of the most valuable handiwork of pre-lnca and Inca races. Along this avenue many magnificent residences have been constructed.

lima: the city of the kings. 9
the valley, two of which, San Cristobal and San Jeronimo, dominate
the city of Lima. Through this valley the river Rimac winds its
way to the sea at Callao, starting from rivulets at least 17,000 feet
high amid the eternal snows of the mountains. Nearly four centu"
ries have passed since Pizarro laid the foundation stones of the
cathedral on a central plaza known to-day as Plaza Mayor. Around
and in the vicinity of this level area the new capital began to grow.
Pizarro's idea, according to historians, was to found a capital more
easily accessible than the cities constructed by the Incas and their
predecessors, who builded far inland and in localities difficult to
reach. The Rimac flows directly through Lima, the larger city develop
ment being on the southern side of the stream. The latter is spanned
by several bridges over which passes a constant traffic. Lima, with
its 200,000 population to-day, has been a long time growing to pres
ent proportions. In shape the city was originally more or less that
of a giant triangle, the hypotenuse of which was formed by the
Rimac. Pizarro bestowed the name of City of the Kings upon the
place as a token of honor on behalf of his royal benefactors; but
gradually the native title seems to have become more and more
popular. The name Lima is derived from that of the river, the
legendary word Rimac meaning "one who speaks." Remembering
that the letter "i" in Spanish has the sound of "e" in the English
language, we can understand, though somewhat vaguely, how in
passing centuries the word became contracted into Lima. Pizarro
being a Spaniard it was natural in laying out the new capital to
plan in accordance with constructive ideas and customs of his native
land. Lima's streets were made to run parallel from northeast to
southwest, the crossing points forming right angles, each street
being narrow (30 to 35 feet), but with numerous reserved open
spaces or plazas. From the early days of 1535 the growing city
passed through every phase of romance, struggle, and excitement.
For 300 years this City of the Kings was the "Second metropolis"
of Spanish dominion on two continents, and we are told that it was
"the center of a viceregal court whose splendor and gayety vied
with that of royalty itself."
Beginning with the rulership of Pizarro, upon the subjugation of
the Incas, the conqueror of Peru after nine years' reign was suc
ceeded by Don Cristobal de Vaca. In 1544 the first viceroy, Don
Blasco Nunez Vela, arrived in Lima from Spain. His jurisdiction not
only included the newly founded city but the "entire continent of
South America. "' This vast territory, however, was subsequently
divided into smaller viceroyalties; and over that of Lima alone 40
or more viceroys followed Vela.
57898—18  2

THE FAMOUS SOUTH AMERICAN LIBERATOR, GEN. SIMON BOLIVAR, ONE OF THE
MANY HEROIC STATUES THAT ADORN THE STREETS AND PARKS OF LIMA.

111!

* I I 1

(I jiiiih IV inij>iiin liml' ui'*"

STATUE OF COLONEL FRANCISCO BOLOGNESI, A PERUVIAN HERO.
This beautiful and costly monument was erected to the memory of the hero of Arica Around the pedestal
are grouped numerous allegorical figures, while the topmost figure represents the hero with his country's
flag draped about him as he received the fatal wound. This monument, together with various others
stands in the newer section of Lima.

12 lima: the city of the kings.
Early in the nineteenth century the growing discontent at Spanish
rule became more and more pronounced, the first martyrs to the
independence of Peru being Ubaldo and Agfiilar. In 1820 the
Argentine military leader, San Martin, with his "army of the Andes,"
and Lord Cochrane in command of a Chilean fleet, came to the aid of
Peruvian patriots, with the result that the Spanish forces were
defeated and Callao bombarded. On July 9, 1821, Gen. San Martin's
army entered Lima in triumph, and on the 28th of the same month
the independence of Peru was formally proclaimed. On September
20, 1822, a constitutional congress met in Lima and on the 28th of the
following February (1823) the first President of Peru, Don Jose de la
Riva Aguero, was inaugurated; but it was not until after the battle
of Ayacucho in 1824 that the royalist troops were completely sub
dued. In Peru, as after struggles for liberty in other lands, the era
of reconstruction followed, and the Peruvian capital was the scene
of political and commercial activities. A constitution was adopted
providing for the three usual branches of democratic government —
the legislative, executive, and judicial. The former is vested in a
national congress consisting of a senate and a house of representa
tives; the senators number 52 and the representatives 116. Congress
convenes annually on July 28 for a session of 90 days, and if the wel
fare of the country demands such action the President of the Republic
may call an extra session of 45 days.
Politically, Peru is divided into departments, or states, and prov
inces, and one of these departments bears the name of Lima, which
has an area of something more than 13,300 square miles and con
tains the capital city. Departments are administered by officials
called prefects, while subprefects preside over provinces. Districts,
cities, and towns have officials called gobernadores and alcaldes.
Prefects and subprefects are appointed by the President of the
Republic and are removed at his will.
Early in 1535 Pizarro created the first municipal organization for
administering the affairs of the then City of the Kings, and an alcalde,
or mayor, was appointed. As the city grew, this branch of adminis
tration likewise became of greater importance; but the cabildo form,
as it was called, continued in operation through the colonial period,
and in fact down to 1857. In this year the cabildo or corporation of
Lima became the municipality. In theory, the municipality has
charge of or controls all communal affairs, including the police, public
health, opening and paving of streets, water supply, sidewalks, build
ing regulations, markets, public vehicles, lighting, etc. At the head
of Lima's city government is an alcalde, or mayor, and a council.
The councilmen, numbering 40 and 1 2 alternates, are drawn from the
various sections of the city; and by law of 1892 foreigners over 21 years
of age, if exercising some trade or profession or are owners of property,

ONE OF THE OLDER STREETS OF LIMA.
Here we have a glimpse of the width of street constructed centmies ago. To-day this narrow thoroughfare is alive with people and some of the best mercantile
shops are along its course. To the stranger the many balconies overhead, typical of ancient architecture, form an interesting feature of the combination
of home and business, the former above and the latter immediately on the street.

14 LIMA : THE CITY OF THE KINGS.
are entitled to vote in municipal elections. Councilmen are elected
by direct vote of the citizens. The city of Lima, it will be seen,
is not only the capital of the nation, but also the capital of the
department of the same name, so that affairs of the Republic, of the
department, and of the municipality are all administered from Lima.
Referring to the government of municipalities, the constitution of
Peru, in article 118, provides that "there shall be municipalities in
such places as may be designated by law, and the law shall deter
mine their functions, responsibility, the qualifications of the coun
cilors, and the method of electing the same." The city of Lima,
therefore, through its mayor and council, enjoys the ordinary gov
ernment of average cities of other lands; but the presence of the
President of the Republic and the national legislators has a tendency
to nationalize and broaden the work and scope of the municipal
leaders. Suppose we go sightseeing in Lima. Our start should be made
from the Plaza Mayor, a section of the city from which every kind of
activity radiates to-day as in the past. This popular meeting ground
comprises several acres, and so historical if not hallowed is every foot
of space that one is lost in meditation in endeavoring to picture the
countless epoch-making scenes that have transpired there. On one
side of this plaza stands the massive cathedral with its twin towers,
the foundation stones of which Pizarro himself is credited with laying.
Near by is the site of the house in which the conqueror breathed his
last as the assassin struck the death blow. Within the cathedral
to-day the mummy of Pizarro lies, a shriveled but well-preserved
figure, the sight of which causes silent reverence, whatever may have
been the character of the man or the causes he espoused.
Occupying the entire north side of this Plaza Mayor is the historical
palace, a massive but typically low structure with various courts,
halls, and many rooms, which formerly housed the viceroys and their
official families. To-day this edifice is used for Government purposes.
With its uniformed sentinels always on duty it bears a military
aspect, the daily guard mount being especially interesting to the
stranger. The other sides of the Plaza Mayor are occupied to-day
by the city hall and by business edifices, the lower floors of which
serve as shops, restaurants, etc., while the upper stories are utilized
by clubs or as private apartments.
The Plaza Mayor is one of Lima's most animated sights day and
night. From here the electric cars radiate to every part of the city;
here one finds carriages and motor cars for pleasure or for business;
amid the beautiful flowers and foliage those who have leisure sit and
read the news of the day or listen to the music of the bands which
often enliven the evenings; the cathedral and the post office near by
draw the citizens by thousands, and all are passing and repassing

SANCTUARY OF THE CATHEDRAL. T ' '
The magnificent carvings on either side are special features. In other parts of the cathedral there
arc to be seen some of the finest paintings in existence.

EXTERIOR VIEW OF THE BUILDING IN WHICH THE PERUVIAN SENATE
MEETS. THIS BUILDING IS MUCH LARGER THAN THE FRONT INDICATES,
AND INCLUDES VARIOUS OFFICES CONNECTED WITH THE SENATE AND
ITS ACTIVITIES.

THE CATHEDRAL IN LIMA. :
The foundation stones of this famous edifice were laid by Pizarro. Earthquake and siege from time
to time have injured its walls, but such disasters seem but to add to its beauty and adornment.
The interior contains 5 aisles and 10 chapels. In one of these chapels repose the remains of the
Conqueror Pizarro, which may toe viewed by the visitor.

LIMA: THE CITY OF THE KINGS. 17
over a plaza so ancient and yet so modern; it is also the site from
which the proclamation of Peruvian independence was read to the
throng on July 28, 1821, the anniversary of which is celebrated each
year. A short distance away standing on another attractive plaza, known
as Bolivar, we find the two buildings which house the Peruvian Con
gress. Especially historic is the senate chamber within the ancient
Inquisition building. Every visitor marvels at the magnificent wood
and carvings by which the senators are surrounded and particularly
the mahogany ceiling, which shows the patient toil of the most
skilled carvers. An interesting modern feature is the use of elec
tricity for voting purposes, whereby a Peruvian senator simply
touches a button on his desk which registers his vote on a disk near
the speaker's table.
In the vicinity of the Plaza Mayor, or not far distant, we find many
churches and convents, some of the most famous being San Fran
cisco, La Merced, San Agustin, Santo Domingo, etc. The churches
of the city number about 67, most of which bear the appearance of
age and indicate that vast sums of money as well as years of patient
labor were required in their construction.
A majority of the older residences of Lima are the typical one-story
structures, and usually a court is one of the leading features. Open
ing on this court are the various living, sleeping, and other apart
ments ; while the court itself is adorned with growing plants, flowers,
and often a small tree or two. Birds, parrots, and other pets are also
numerous. Barred windows and balconies are always in evidence.
Many Lima homes of the better classes are two-story structures,
and in such cases the balcony overhanging the street offers the family
a fine point from which to view the life of the street when tired of
the courtyard and its seclusion. One of the finest types of this home
is the famous Torre-Tagle mansion. Almost a fortress in appearance
as one enters the great stone wall leading from the street, but when
within the courtyards (there are several), the outer doors closed, a
veritable and secluded palace presents itself with enough luxurious
surroundings to make even a king envious. It was built in the days
of the viceroys and nothing seems to have been forgotten as regards
comfort and convenience of those early times, even to the private
chapel opening on one of the courts. The carved mahogany bal
conies overlooking the street are also works of art and patient toil.
Chimneys to homes of Lima are, of course, an unknown feature in
construction, as the temperate climate renders fires unnecessary.
During the prevalence of chilling fogs, however, modern electrical
stoves prove a comfort to the well-to-do families.
An interesting book could be written about the vicissitudes of the
oldest institution of learning in any of the Americas, the famous

INTERIOR VIEW OF THE PERUVIAN SENATE CHAMBER.
There are 52 members of the Senate, and the desk of each senator has electric buttons for registering his
vote on the enunciator in the rear of the speaker's desk, by means of different colored lights. The special
feature of this room is the marvelous and minute carvings in mahogany on the ceiling, a work executed
many years ago.

THE CHURCH AND CONVENT OF SAN FRANCISCO, LIMA.
This is one of the beautiful religious edifices of the Peruvian capital. Both exterior and interior reflect the tedious toil of many laborers
and a total expenditure of more than $2,000,000.

20 LIMA: THE CITY OF THE KINGS.
Universidad de San Marcos. Nearly a century before John Harvard
delivered his handful of books in Cambridge to found the first seat
of learning in the United States, the professors at San Marcos in Lima
had grown old and infirm in educational service. Earthquake and
siege have again and again damaged or destroyed the buildings of
this institution, but its noble work started in 1551 continues to the
present day, although modernized, improved, and enlarged in many
ways. Europe's greatest university of ancient days, that of Sala
manca, appears to have been the model for the Lima offspring; a
royal charter came from Emperor Charles V and his mother, Queen
Joana, rooms were secured in the monastery of Santo Domingo, and
the work of education in the New World was systematically begun.
To-day the University of San Marcos maintains schools of law,
medicine, literature, theology, and political science; courses which
have not only been pursued by many of the past and present leaders
of Peruvian life, but by those of other nationalities who are proud to
call San Marcos their alma mater.
A visit to this famous institution should certainly be on the itinerary
of all who wish to feel the inspiration that attaches to such a veteran
seat of learning. Within quaint and quiet patios and weather-beaten
walls and on secluded seats under palms and flowers the student pur
sues his work. Classrooms and gatherings of students are scenes of
animation, as elsewhere, but the stranger is struck with a feeling of
reverence as he meanders here and there and meets a professor in a
classroom hoary with age.
Lima has naturally developed various other colleges which provide
courses in engineering, mining, scientific agriculture, military and
naval sciences; also a recently established school of arts and crafts is
doing excellent work.
Peru's capital is the home of a national museum, one of the world's
most interesting institutions of this nature. It shares with that of
Cairo in displaying to modern peoples various incidents of life and
activity of by-gone races. We can not here enter into an enumera
tion of the countless relics preserved in the Lima institution, but it
may be said that many of them are priceless in value and that the
vast collection is gradually being enlarged as ruins in different parts
of the Republic are excavated and examined. Potteries, textiles,
mummies especially offer an interesting field of study. Also the gal
lery of paintings of Peruvian history is particularly noteworthy. The
remains of the first airplane to cross the Alps in which the Peruvian
airman, Don Jorge Chaves, lost his life is another interesting exhibit,
strangely out of harmony as it lies surrounded by ancient things, but
indicative of the spirit of ambition that animates the bosom of the
younger Peruvian to-day.

THE FAMOUS TORRE-TAGLE RESIDENCE.
This edifice, constructed in the days of the Viceroys, furnishes one of the best illustrations of the massively-
built homes of the Peruvian capital. Note the beautifully carved balconies and the magnificent
stonework at the main entrance. Within the spacious halls every comfort that could be provided in
ancient days was a part of the architect's duty.

ONE OF LIMA'S FINANCIAL INSTITUTIONS.
This is the Bank of Deposits and Consignments, an institution somewhat similar to a clearing house in
the United States. It has a capital of about $500,000, which was subscribed by other banking houses
of the city.

LIMA: THE CITY OF THE KINGS. 23
It is a coincidence that both Lima and Cairo have magnificent new
structures which house their precious antiquities, and although
thousands of miles of land and sea separate these countries, articles
of a somewhat similar workmanship or art are to be seen in both
museums. Lima is not only the political but also the commercial capital of
Peru, and many of its business streets always present animated scenes.
Large exporting and importing houses have their headquarters in the
capital, and these industries draw annually an army of business men
from other lands. As already observed, Callao may be termed the
shipping port of Lima. During a recent normal year more than 1,400
steam and sailing vessels entered this port transporting a vast cargo,
much of which was sent farther inland over the railway passing
through Lima en route to the mountains. In return, a vast trade in
raw products passes through Lima to world markets, among such
products being those of the famous Cerro de Pasco mines at Oroya.
Lima's cotton, flour, furniture, chocolate, cocaine, boot and shoe, silk,
woolen, paper, tanning, and other factories are also contributing
extensively to build the trade of the city and suburbs.
We have space for nothing further than a brief mention of these
growing manufacturing establishments. In cotton goods the five
factories of Lima, together with one at Arequipa and lea, respec
tively, produced approximately 24,000,000 yards of calico, drill,
toweling, and kindred fabrics in a recent year. These factories em
ployed 1,500 hands, and about the same number of looms were
operated. In woolen goods the Santa Catalina establishment in
Lima alone usually supplies the home market with about 200,000
yards of cloth a year. There are five such factories in Lima, Cuzco,
and Arequipa. In the vicinity of Lima and Callao large qantities of
alcohol are distilled, as well as in the main grape-growing districts of
the country. Figures show also that 770,000 gallons of "pisco" (a
spirit made from white grapes) are produced annually; while the
making of all kinds of wines during the year amounts to more than
2,000,000 gallons. The manufacture of cotton-seed oil and cotton
seed cake occupies the attention of at least ten different factories in
and about Lima.
At the Santa Rosa mills, near Lima, modern equipment is in
operation and large qantities of flour, vermicilli, macaroni, etc., are
produced. Lima's chocolate factories, of which there are several,
make a fine and popular article, as is attested by those who frequent
the new cafes and restaurants, so popular during the late afternoon
and evening hours. A biscuit factory is also well patronized by the
housekeepers of the capital, while the manufacture of tobacco,
cigars, and cigarettes for the male population has been a govern-

THE CITY POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICES.
Lima combines these two activities within one fine structure. The latter stands on a business street.
near the corner of the Plaza Mayor, and is, therefore, conveniently located. The building is also a
good example of the more modern business architecture of the city.

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THE HUNICIPALIDAD, OH CITY HALL.
This example of Spanish- American architecture shows the popular arcade feature of many Lima public buildings. Here the pedestrian on the sidewalk is
protected from the rays of the sun. This building stands on the Plaza Mayor and always presents a busy appearance.

26 LIMA: THE CITY OF THE KINGS.
ment monopoly for nearly 10 years, and a vast output comes
from five factories in Lima, as well as from elsewhere in the
republic. Closely associated with tobacco are two or more match
factories of Lima. Chemical industries include the manufacture of
cocaine, benzine, ammonia, gasoline, and numerous other products
from the abundant raw supplies near at hand. The annual produc
tion of leathei goods, boots and shoes, trunks, etc., in Lima, has
grown extensively in recent years. Indeed, one studying the pos
sibilities of manufacture in Peru should visit the new Commercial
Museum in Lima and see the marvelous display of goods made both
by hand and by machinery; and yet these numerous samples are
only a few of the goods made in Lima and in other cities of Peru.
The resorts and pleasure parks of the capital are numerous, and there
are modern electric lines for reaching them from the heart of the city.
Chorrillos, Barranco, Miraflores, La Punta, etc., offer those who love
the sea fine opportunities for boating or bathing; and, indeed, a large
number of people maintain their permanent homes on or near the
Bay of Chorrillos, famous for its regattas and other aquatic sports.
On the other hand, when the fogs and mist of winter overhang the
coastal region many citizens of the capital find the sunny climate
of Chosica especially appealing; the latter resort lies some 30 miles
inland in the Andean foothills and directly on the Oroya Railroad.
In 1870 an exposition was held in Lima, and naturally a number
of new buildings were constructed in order to provide for exhibits
and throngs of people. The name of Exposition Park seems to have
become definitely fixed upon this suburb, and to-day we find that
many of the people of wealth and influence have established their
homes in that part of Lima. The park itself covers about 30 acres,
and is laid out in beautiful walks, artificial lakes, grottoes, flower
gardens, and other attractive features. Within the park is also
located one of the finest restaurants in the whole city, and it is here
in season that many of the exclusive society folk spend their evenings,
surrounded by tropical plants and flowers and charmed by the beau
tiful strains of the orchestral music, a feature of Lima life.
In front of this park the most beautiful avenue of the capital,
known as Paseo Colon, has been constructed. As indicated by the
name, it is dedicated to the discoverer of America. It is nearly
a mile long, is 150 feet wide, one end of which terminates at the new
circle or Plaza Bolognesi. On either side of this avenue many costly
residences have been built, along the middle of the avenue from end
to end extends a border of flowers, and at intervals stand monuments
representing the heroes of Peruvian history. A number of arches
are studded with electric bulbs, which render the whole avenue
especially attractive at night. On late afternoons and evenings the

rt^rfiMliS-^iiiii,

EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS.
Upper- One of the numerous patios of the University of San Marcos, established in 1551, and there
fore the most ancient seat of learning in the Americas. Lower: The new medical school building
of San Marcos. Students who have completed a two-year course in natural sciences, mathe
matics, etc., are eligible for enrollment. The medical curriculum embraces a period of six years,
after which the degree of physician and surgeon may be conferred.

28 lima: the city of the kings.
Paseo Colon is alive with the elite of Lima society; gay parties in
motor cars and carriages and pedestrians are there en masse, and up
and down the Paseo they promenade, all enjoying rest and recreation
from the cares of office or home, and presenting to the visitor within
the city's gates a pleasing and lasting picture.
Another delightful driveway of Lima is the Avenida de Magdalena,
connecting the city and the seaside town of Magdalena, a distance of
3£ miles. This new street is 125 feet wide, and along its route stand
fine shade trees; the Avenida de los Descalzas is still another street
frequented by the masses, stretching as it does along the Rimac and
being adorned with beautiful foliage, flowers, marble benches, and
grassy plots. Other newer streets and avenues, such as Bolognesi,
Grau, Ninth of December, etc., are fast becoming more popular,
especially as the motor cars increase in number. Considering the
city proper, there are about 35 public squares formed by the crossing
of old and new streets, which offer restful seats or recreation grounds
for the general public.
The people of Lima are fond of sports and pleasures, and in this
respect we note that older sports, like "playing the carnival," seem
to be passing; although the writer retains vivid impressions of one
of his visits to Lima at the carnival season when he was pelted again
and again by perfumed and bursting water balls (bombas de perfume)
thrown by young ladies and young men. This is only a single feature
of the three-day carnival, but it carries innocent amusement and at
times not a little excitement for the stranger.
To-day horse racing is one of Lima's popular pastimes, the season
extending from July to December. The Jockey Club is a well-
conducted institution and its members are among the leading citizens
of Peru. The President and other officials usually attend at least
some of the events. The magnificent grand stand has seats for several
thousand spectators and is usually well patronized. The race course
is located near the Paseo Colon and measures about 4,900 feet in
circumference. The Union Regatta Club is another leading body of
younger citizens which provides pleasures and amusements associated
with the summer season at the coastal resorts. There are also foot
ball, tennis, cricket, and various other athletic societies which number
among their members many leading ladies and gentlemen of the
capital. One of the newest and most popular clubs is that devoted
to aviation, a science that has already developed a number of famous
Peruvian flyers, one of whom successfully crossed the Alps but gave
up his life in accomplishing the feat. The name of this hero, Jorge
Chaves, has been honored by a monument to his memory.
Turning from outdoor pastimes to more serious walks of life, we
find in Lima a number of societies devoted to scientific research,

LIMA'S INSTITUTE OF HYGIENE.
This is a new structure with modern facilities for scientific research and a staff for the improvemert of
public sanitation, etc.

THE NEW BUILDING OF THE SCHOOL OF ARTS AND CRAFTS.
Within this edifice are laboratories, offices, and recitation halls, and also dormitories for many
students. Training along these lines of work is becoming more popular among young people,
and the result is proving a real asset to the country.

Photo by W. V. Alford.

A RUSTIC FOOTBRIDGE IN EXPOSITION PARK.
Many of these features are seen in the park and the latter is a general rendezvous for the people of Lima
throughout the year. Many animals are kept in the zoological section of the park, a feature especially
pleasing to the children.

Photo by Brown & Dawson.
ONE OF THE ENTRANCES TO THE PARK OR EXPOSITION GROUNDS.
The building, which stands a hundred feet or more inside the gates, is a restaurant. This is a popular
resort for social parties, dances, and other functions, where open-air life is enjoyed to the fullest. The
street on which this entrance fronts is the Paseo Colon.

LIMA: THE CITY OF THE KINGS. b"±]
social and historical questions, literature and art, etc. The famous
Geographical Society has done very important work in connection
with exploration of Andean ruined cities, map making, and other
lines, and its meetings are a feature of the intellectual life of Lima.
Numerous other societies are devoted to medicine, mining, music,
engineering, agriculture, and allied activities, and as a result of
frequent meetings the professional and business men of Lima are
brought closely into persona! contact and acquaintanceship, an asset
of high value to the community.
In the upbuilding of Lima and the whole of Peru too much credit
can not be given to the press. The capital and commercial metropolis
is the home of a large number of daily, weekly, and monthly publica
tions, the oldest of which, El Comercio, was established in 1839.
The leading dailies, of course, receive and publish the cable news
from all parts of the world, while correspondents in Peruvian cities
and abroad keep their respective journals supplied with the latest
happenings. Not only are journals of Lima published in the language
of the country, but there are also certain editions that print columns
or pages in other languages, while in recent years several English
publications have interpreted Peruvian life and interests to a vast
clientele of readers far beyond the bounds of the country. Lima's
various societies also have their official magazines which reflect the
activities and progress of their respective bodies. The facilities
which Lima publishers have acquired for the pictorial side of jour
nalism are also popular agencies for the dissemination of news.
The City of the Kings has passed and new Lima is now an accom
plished fact. Modernizing influences have been somewhat slower in
coming than has been the case with countries receiving annually a
large immigration from Europe — in numerous ways an asset, but
sometimes a detriment. The world at war is rapidly evolving eco
nomic changes. A greater commerce has enabled the city's financial
institutions to reflect a pleasing increase in various lines of activity,
only a few of which have been chronicled in the foregoing article.
And the universal call for still larger quantities of the raw supplies
that lie hidden beneath Peruvian soil foreshadows continued work
and inflowing capital, and these factors are nowhere more noticeable
than within the gates of the city.

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

3 9002 08837 3320

THE PAN AMERICAN UNION is the inter
national organization and office maintained
in Washington, D. C, by the twenty-one
American republics, as follows: Argentina, Bolivia,
Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Domini
can Republic, Ecuador, Guatemala, Haiti, Hon
duras, Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Peru,
Salvador, United States, Uruguay, and Venezuela.
It is devoted to the development and advancement
of commerce, friendly intercourse, and good under
standing among these countries. It is supported
by quotas contributed by each country, based upon
the population. Its affairs are administered by a.
Director General and Assistant Director, elected
by and responsible to a Governing Board, which is
composed of the Secretary of State of the United
States and the diplomatic representatives in Wash
ington of the other American governments. These
two executive officers are assisted by a staff of
international experts, statisticians, commercial
specialists, editors, translators, compilers, libra
rians, clerks and stenographers. The Union pub
lishes a Monthly Bulletin in English, Spanish,
Portuguese and French, which is a. careful record
of Pan American progress. It also publishes
numerous special reports and pamphlets on various
subjects of practical information. Its library, the
Columbus Memorial Library, contains 40,000 vol
umes, 20,000 photographs, 150,000 index cards, and
a large collection of maps. The Union is housed in
a beautiful building erected through the munifi
cence of Andrew Carnegie.

32

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