? , f^GANS T5he PAN AMERICAN UNION JOHN BARRETT : : Director General FRANCISCO J. YANES : Assistant Director u LIMA THE CITY OF THE KINGS Reprinted from the March, 1918, issue of the Bulletin of the Pan American Union WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1918 ! A* I H r iv I ih' INGS1 "In awlul pride, enthroned above the skies, Peaks upon peaks in matchless grandeur rise; 'Mid frowning glaciers on whose snowy crest, The savage vulture builds its craggy nest." WRITTEN long ago, the thoughts of the poet lose none of their charm by the passing of the years. The majestic mountains, the clearest of skies, the dormant wealth, the romance, the locked mysteries of the ages, all abound in the land of Peru. They awe, charm, and inspire us to-day as they did Pizarro and his little band on that fateful journey up the moun tains to meet the Inca chieftain at Cajamarca. Indeed, Peru appeals to the present-day visitor just as potently perhaps as did the ruined Andean cities mystify the Incas when the latter race first roamed amid the fastnesses of the great mountains. Interesting it would undoubtedly be if we could turn back the pages of the centuries and see the builders laboring at Cuzco, at Pachacamac, at Chan-Chan, on Titicaca's isles, all within the present bounds of Peru. But pre-Inca life is a silent chapter and we walk through the streets of their crumbling cities mystified at ancient accomplishment. The Incas, who knew nothing of the people who had preceded them, had been living in Peru for 500 years before the appearance of Pizarro in 1531. The former are believed to have numbered five or six million people at the time the "pale faces " arrived on their shores, fulfilling an Inca tradition and fear that some day men with beard on their faces would come from over the seas to take their lands. The vast area known as Peru at the time of Inca civilization stretched from Colombia to northern Chile and Argentina. Even to-day Peru covers an area equal to Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, and Utah combined, or to be more specific in figures, about 679,600 square miles. This extensive territory comprises three dis tinct geographical regions — the dry coastal lands, varying in width from 20 to 80 miles; the lofty mountainous section, which in recent years has been crossed by the world's highest railroad; and the vast and little known region lying east of the Andes. The popula tion of the country is about 4,500,000. Comparatively few foreigners see interior regions of Peru to-day; but a vast majority of those who voyage up and down the Pacific pay brief visits to Lima, the City of the Kings, where fragments of the ' By William A. Reid, Pan American Union stafl. A GLIMPSE OF CALLAO, LIMA'S PORT *>. ,,- .„,th. loarii™ maritime nations of the world are usually found in the harbor. Callao, which is only 8 miles from Lima, is often referred to as the "down In normal times the ships of the lea^™»™=« ofthTperuvfan capital Many business men live in Lima and have their offices in the port. Photo by Underwood & Underwood. L [_. ~^j .. GENERAL VIEW OF LIMA FROM THE HILL OF SAN CRISTOBAL. The winding drive from the heart of Lima to the top of this hill provides a most attractive view of the city and environs. Near the center of the picture we have a glimpse of the Rimac River, flowing with cool water from the snowy mountains. The Plaza Mayor may be located by the twin towers of the cathedral. The large circle on the left is the bullring, one of the largest in the world. 6 lima: the city of the kings. ages1 stand side by side with those that are among the world's most modernizing influences of the present. It is of the city rather than of the country that we write, but so closely is the building of the capital connected with the history and progress of the country that descriptions have a tendency to merge into one composite whole. Peru is a land of tropical sunshine, and along its 1,500 miles of coastal plain rain rarely falls. Yet, if the traveler happens to reach the leading port of the Republic, Callao, situated about the midway point on its coast, between the months of June and November, he is likely to encounter fogs or mist, and as the ship casts anchor the novice might express surprise as to why the master anchors at sea. "When the mists have cleared away," however, Callao looms on the near horizon, and in the distance the mountains may be discerned towering toward the skies. In arriving at Callao from the north or from the south we have voyaged on the bosom of the Antarctic current, which cools the Peru vian coastal plain somewhat like the Gulf stream provides warmth for the British Isles. Only a few degrees south of the Equator is central Peru, but the northward-flowing sea current and the elevated mountains are responsible for a most delightful climate, the hottest days of summer (December to May) rarely registering a temperature higher than 80° F., or in winter lower than 60° F., in the vicinity of Lima. The port of Callao is only 8 miles distant from the capital of the Republic. The former has the most modern docking facilities along the west coast of South America (Valparaiso under construction), and many ships tie up at the piers and land passengers and freight directly on terra firma. Callao has about 35,000 population and is a busy, cosmopolitan city. Many persons who have commercial interests there maintain their residences in Lima, so that the port in many respects might aptly be termed the "down town" district of Lima. There are three methods of transportation between the two cities, being both steam and electric lines and the ancient public highway. The visitor naturally chooses the electric line which has its terminus near the water front, and half an hour later arrives in the City of the Kings. The electric station in the capital stands on a broad plaza, from which automobiles or carriages are available for the short ride to Lima's leading hotel, adjoining the Plaza Mayor, the latter being one of the oldest landmarks of the city. The City of the Kings, which is now generally known by the mod ern name of Lima, is located in an undulating valley which extends inland from the ocean for 50 miles or more to the foothills of the Andes, although numerous mountain spurs rise here and there about ' Deposited in the National Museum. A GENERAL VIEW OF LIMA AS THE CITY APPEARED SOME YEARS AGO. The large building in the foreground is the cathedral. Since this photograph was made the scene has been completely changed, the small trees have matured, many streets have been paved, sidewalks laid, and new and higher buildings are now in evidence. PASEO COLON, ONE OF LIMA'S NEW AND ATTRACTIVE AVENUES. This new avenue extends nearly a mile and terminates in a modern circle, from which radiate other streets and avenues. On the left of the picture we have a view of a portion of the National Museum an institution which houses some of the most valuable handiwork of pre-lnca and Inca races. Along this avenue many magnificent residences have been constructed. lima: the city of the kings. 9 the valley, two of which, San Cristobal and San Jeronimo, dominate the city of Lima. Through this valley the river Rimac winds its way to the sea at Callao, starting from rivulets at least 17,000 feet high amid the eternal snows of the mountains. Nearly four centu" ries have passed since Pizarro laid the foundation stones of the cathedral on a central plaza known to-day as Plaza Mayor. Around and in the vicinity of this level area the new capital began to grow. Pizarro's idea, according to historians, was to found a capital more easily accessible than the cities constructed by the Incas and their predecessors, who builded far inland and in localities difficult to reach. The Rimac flows directly through Lima, the larger city develop ment being on the southern side of the stream. The latter is spanned by several bridges over which passes a constant traffic. Lima, with its 200,000 population to-day, has been a long time growing to pres ent proportions. In shape the city was originally more or less that of a giant triangle, the hypotenuse of which was formed by the Rimac. Pizarro bestowed the name of City of the Kings upon the place as a token of honor on behalf of his royal benefactors; but gradually the native title seems to have become more and more popular. The name Lima is derived from that of the river, the legendary word Rimac meaning "one who speaks." Remembering that the letter "i" in Spanish has the sound of "e" in the English language, we can understand, though somewhat vaguely, how in passing centuries the word became contracted into Lima. Pizarro being a Spaniard it was natural in laying out the new capital to plan in accordance with constructive ideas and customs of his native land. Lima's streets were made to run parallel from northeast to southwest, the crossing points forming right angles, each street being narrow (30 to 35 feet), but with numerous reserved open spaces or plazas. From the early days of 1535 the growing city passed through every phase of romance, struggle, and excitement. For 300 years this City of the Kings was the "Second metropolis" of Spanish dominion on two continents, and we are told that it was "the center of a viceregal court whose splendor and gayety vied with that of royalty itself." Beginning with the rulership of Pizarro, upon the subjugation of the Incas, the conqueror of Peru after nine years' reign was suc ceeded by Don Cristobal de Vaca. In 1544 the first viceroy, Don Blasco Nunez Vela, arrived in Lima from Spain. His jurisdiction not only included the newly founded city but the "entire continent of South America. "' This vast territory, however, was subsequently divided into smaller viceroyalties; and over that of Lima alone 40 or more viceroys followed Vela. 57898—18 2 THE FAMOUS SOUTH AMERICAN LIBERATOR, GEN. SIMON BOLIVAR, ONE OF THE MANY HEROIC STATUES THAT ADORN THE STREETS AND PARKS OF LIMA. 111! * I I 1 (I jiiiih IV inij>iiin liml' ui'*" STATUE OF COLONEL FRANCISCO BOLOGNESI, A PERUVIAN HERO. This beautiful and costly monument was erected to the memory of the hero of Arica Around the pedestal are grouped numerous allegorical figures, while the topmost figure represents the hero with his country's flag draped about him as he received the fatal wound. This monument, together with various others stands in the newer section of Lima. 12 lima: the city of the kings. Early in the nineteenth century the growing discontent at Spanish rule became more and more pronounced, the first martyrs to the independence of Peru being Ubaldo and Agfiilar. In 1820 the Argentine military leader, San Martin, with his "army of the Andes," and Lord Cochrane in command of a Chilean fleet, came to the aid of Peruvian patriots, with the result that the Spanish forces were defeated and Callao bombarded. On July 9, 1821, Gen. San Martin's army entered Lima in triumph, and on the 28th of the same month the independence of Peru was formally proclaimed. On September 20, 1822, a constitutional congress met in Lima and on the 28th of the following February (1823) the first President of Peru, Don Jose de la Riva Aguero, was inaugurated; but it was not until after the battle of Ayacucho in 1824 that the royalist troops were completely sub dued. In Peru, as after struggles for liberty in other lands, the era of reconstruction followed, and the Peruvian capital was the scene of political and commercial activities. A constitution was adopted providing for the three usual branches of democratic government — the legislative, executive, and judicial. The former is vested in a national congress consisting of a senate and a house of representa tives; the senators number 52 and the representatives 116. Congress convenes annually on July 28 for a session of 90 days, and if the wel fare of the country demands such action the President of the Republic may call an extra session of 45 days. Politically, Peru is divided into departments, or states, and prov inces, and one of these departments bears the name of Lima, which has an area of something more than 13,300 square miles and con tains the capital city. Departments are administered by officials called prefects, while subprefects preside over provinces. Districts, cities, and towns have officials called gobernadores and alcaldes. Prefects and subprefects are appointed by the President of the Republic and are removed at his will. Early in 1535 Pizarro created the first municipal organization for administering the affairs of the then City of the Kings, and an alcalde, or mayor, was appointed. As the city grew, this branch of adminis tration likewise became of greater importance; but the cabildo form, as it was called, continued in operation through the colonial period, and in fact down to 1857. In this year the cabildo or corporation of Lima became the municipality. In theory, the municipality has charge of or controls all communal affairs, including the police, public health, opening and paving of streets, water supply, sidewalks, build ing regulations, markets, public vehicles, lighting, etc. At the head of Lima's city government is an alcalde, or mayor, and a council. The councilmen, numbering 40 and 1 2 alternates, are drawn from the various sections of the city; and by law of 1892 foreigners over 21 years of age, if exercising some trade or profession or are owners of property, ONE OF THE OLDER STREETS OF LIMA. Here we have a glimpse of the width of street constructed centmies ago. To-day this narrow thoroughfare is alive with people and some of the best mercantile shops are along its course. To the stranger the many balconies overhead, typical of ancient architecture, form an interesting feature of the combination of home and business, the former above and the latter immediately on the street. 14 LIMA : THE CITY OF THE KINGS. are entitled to vote in municipal elections. Councilmen are elected by direct vote of the citizens. The city of Lima, it will be seen, is not only the capital of the nation, but also the capital of the department of the same name, so that affairs of the Republic, of the department, and of the municipality are all administered from Lima. Referring to the government of municipalities, the constitution of Peru, in article 118, provides that "there shall be municipalities in such places as may be designated by law, and the law shall deter mine their functions, responsibility, the qualifications of the coun cilors, and the method of electing the same." The city of Lima, therefore, through its mayor and council, enjoys the ordinary gov ernment of average cities of other lands; but the presence of the President of the Republic and the national legislators has a tendency to nationalize and broaden the work and scope of the municipal leaders. Suppose we go sightseeing in Lima. Our start should be made from the Plaza Mayor, a section of the city from which every kind of activity radiates to-day as in the past. This popular meeting ground comprises several acres, and so historical if not hallowed is every foot of space that one is lost in meditation in endeavoring to picture the countless epoch-making scenes that have transpired there. On one side of this plaza stands the massive cathedral with its twin towers, the foundation stones of which Pizarro himself is credited with laying. Near by is the site of the house in which the conqueror breathed his last as the assassin struck the death blow. Within the cathedral to-day the mummy of Pizarro lies, a shriveled but well-preserved figure, the sight of which causes silent reverence, whatever may have been the character of the man or the causes he espoused. Occupying the entire north side of this Plaza Mayor is the historical palace, a massive but typically low structure with various courts, halls, and many rooms, which formerly housed the viceroys and their official families. To-day this edifice is used for Government purposes. With its uniformed sentinels always on duty it bears a military aspect, the daily guard mount being especially interesting to the stranger. The other sides of the Plaza Mayor are occupied to-day by the city hall and by business edifices, the lower floors of which serve as shops, restaurants, etc., while the upper stories are utilized by clubs or as private apartments. The Plaza Mayor is one of Lima's most animated sights day and night. From here the electric cars radiate to every part of the city; here one finds carriages and motor cars for pleasure or for business; amid the beautiful flowers and foliage those who have leisure sit and read the news of the day or listen to the music of the bands which often enliven the evenings; the cathedral and the post office near by draw the citizens by thousands, and all are passing and repassing SANCTUARY OF THE CATHEDRAL. T ' ' The magnificent carvings on either side are special features. In other parts of the cathedral there arc to be seen some of the finest paintings in existence. EXTERIOR VIEW OF THE BUILDING IN WHICH THE PERUVIAN SENATE MEETS. THIS BUILDING IS MUCH LARGER THAN THE FRONT INDICATES, AND INCLUDES VARIOUS OFFICES CONNECTED WITH THE SENATE AND ITS ACTIVITIES. THE CATHEDRAL IN LIMA. : The foundation stones of this famous edifice were laid by Pizarro. Earthquake and siege from time to time have injured its walls, but such disasters seem but to add to its beauty and adornment. The interior contains 5 aisles and 10 chapels. In one of these chapels repose the remains of the Conqueror Pizarro, which may toe viewed by the visitor. LIMA: THE CITY OF THE KINGS. 17 over a plaza so ancient and yet so modern; it is also the site from which the proclamation of Peruvian independence was read to the throng on July 28, 1821, the anniversary of which is celebrated each year. A short distance away standing on another attractive plaza, known as Bolivar, we find the two buildings which house the Peruvian Con gress. Especially historic is the senate chamber within the ancient Inquisition building. Every visitor marvels at the magnificent wood and carvings by which the senators are surrounded and particularly the mahogany ceiling, which shows the patient toil of the most skilled carvers. An interesting modern feature is the use of elec tricity for voting purposes, whereby a Peruvian senator simply touches a button on his desk which registers his vote on a disk near the speaker's table. In the vicinity of the Plaza Mayor, or not far distant, we find many churches and convents, some of the most famous being San Fran cisco, La Merced, San Agustin, Santo Domingo, etc. The churches of the city number about 67, most of which bear the appearance of age and indicate that vast sums of money as well as years of patient labor were required in their construction. A majority of the older residences of Lima are the typical one-story structures, and usually a court is one of the leading features. Open ing on this court are the various living, sleeping, and other apart ments ; while the court itself is adorned with growing plants, flowers, and often a small tree or two. Birds, parrots, and other pets are also numerous. Barred windows and balconies are always in evidence. Many Lima homes of the better classes are two-story structures, and in such cases the balcony overhanging the street offers the family a fine point from which to view the life of the street when tired of the courtyard and its seclusion. One of the finest types of this home is the famous Torre-Tagle mansion. Almost a fortress in appearance as one enters the great stone wall leading from the street, but when within the courtyards (there are several), the outer doors closed, a veritable and secluded palace presents itself with enough luxurious surroundings to make even a king envious. It was built in the days of the viceroys and nothing seems to have been forgotten as regards comfort and convenience of those early times, even to the private chapel opening on one of the courts. The carved mahogany bal conies overlooking the street are also works of art and patient toil. Chimneys to homes of Lima are, of course, an unknown feature in construction, as the temperate climate renders fires unnecessary. During the prevalence of chilling fogs, however, modern electrical stoves prove a comfort to the well-to-do families. An interesting book could be written about the vicissitudes of the oldest institution of learning in any of the Americas, the famous INTERIOR VIEW OF THE PERUVIAN SENATE CHAMBER. There are 52 members of the Senate, and the desk of each senator has electric buttons for registering his vote on the enunciator in the rear of the speaker's desk, by means of different colored lights. The special feature of this room is the marvelous and minute carvings in mahogany on the ceiling, a work executed many years ago. THE CHURCH AND CONVENT OF SAN FRANCISCO, LIMA. This is one of the beautiful religious edifices of the Peruvian capital. Both exterior and interior reflect the tedious toil of many laborers and a total expenditure of more than $2,000,000. 20 LIMA: THE CITY OF THE KINGS. Universidad de San Marcos. Nearly a century before John Harvard delivered his handful of books in Cambridge to found the first seat of learning in the United States, the professors at San Marcos in Lima had grown old and infirm in educational service. Earthquake and siege have again and again damaged or destroyed the buildings of this institution, but its noble work started in 1551 continues to the present day, although modernized, improved, and enlarged in many ways. Europe's greatest university of ancient days, that of Sala manca, appears to have been the model for the Lima offspring; a royal charter came from Emperor Charles V and his mother, Queen Joana, rooms were secured in the monastery of Santo Domingo, and the work of education in the New World was systematically begun. To-day the University of San Marcos maintains schools of law, medicine, literature, theology, and political science; courses which have not only been pursued by many of the past and present leaders of Peruvian life, but by those of other nationalities who are proud to call San Marcos their alma mater. A visit to this famous institution should certainly be on the itinerary of all who wish to feel the inspiration that attaches to such a veteran seat of learning. Within quaint and quiet patios and weather-beaten walls and on secluded seats under palms and flowers the student pur sues his work. Classrooms and gatherings of students are scenes of animation, as elsewhere, but the stranger is struck with a feeling of reverence as he meanders here and there and meets a professor in a classroom hoary with age. Lima has naturally developed various other colleges which provide courses in engineering, mining, scientific agriculture, military and naval sciences; also a recently established school of arts and crafts is doing excellent work. Peru's capital is the home of a national museum, one of the world's most interesting institutions of this nature. It shares with that of Cairo in displaying to modern peoples various incidents of life and activity of by-gone races. We can not here enter into an enumera tion of the countless relics preserved in the Lima institution, but it may be said that many of them are priceless in value and that the vast collection is gradually being enlarged as ruins in different parts of the Republic are excavated and examined. Potteries, textiles, mummies especially offer an interesting field of study. Also the gal lery of paintings of Peruvian history is particularly noteworthy. The remains of the first airplane to cross the Alps in which the Peruvian airman, Don Jorge Chaves, lost his life is another interesting exhibit, strangely out of harmony as it lies surrounded by ancient things, but indicative of the spirit of ambition that animates the bosom of the younger Peruvian to-day. THE FAMOUS TORRE-TAGLE RESIDENCE. This edifice, constructed in the days of the Viceroys, furnishes one of the best illustrations of the massively- built homes of the Peruvian capital. Note the beautifully carved balconies and the magnificent stonework at the main entrance. Within the spacious halls every comfort that could be provided in ancient days was a part of the architect's duty. ONE OF LIMA'S FINANCIAL INSTITUTIONS. This is the Bank of Deposits and Consignments, an institution somewhat similar to a clearing house in the United States. It has a capital of about $500,000, which was subscribed by other banking houses of the city. LIMA: THE CITY OF THE KINGS. 23 It is a coincidence that both Lima and Cairo have magnificent new structures which house their precious antiquities, and although thousands of miles of land and sea separate these countries, articles of a somewhat similar workmanship or art are to be seen in both museums. Lima is not only the political but also the commercial capital of Peru, and many of its business streets always present animated scenes. Large exporting and importing houses have their headquarters in the capital, and these industries draw annually an army of business men from other lands. As already observed, Callao may be termed the shipping port of Lima. During a recent normal year more than 1,400 steam and sailing vessels entered this port transporting a vast cargo, much of which was sent farther inland over the railway passing through Lima en route to the mountains. In return, a vast trade in raw products passes through Lima to world markets, among such products being those of the famous Cerro de Pasco mines at Oroya. Lima's cotton, flour, furniture, chocolate, cocaine, boot and shoe, silk, woolen, paper, tanning, and other factories are also contributing extensively to build the trade of the city and suburbs. We have space for nothing further than a brief mention of these growing manufacturing establishments. In cotton goods the five factories of Lima, together with one at Arequipa and lea, respec tively, produced approximately 24,000,000 yards of calico, drill, toweling, and kindred fabrics in a recent year. These factories em ployed 1,500 hands, and about the same number of looms were operated. In woolen goods the Santa Catalina establishment in Lima alone usually supplies the home market with about 200,000 yards of cloth a year. There are five such factories in Lima, Cuzco, and Arequipa. In the vicinity of Lima and Callao large qantities of alcohol are distilled, as well as in the main grape-growing districts of the country. Figures show also that 770,000 gallons of "pisco" (a spirit made from white grapes) are produced annually; while the making of all kinds of wines during the year amounts to more than 2,000,000 gallons. The manufacture of cotton-seed oil and cotton seed cake occupies the attention of at least ten different factories in and about Lima. At the Santa Rosa mills, near Lima, modern equipment is in operation and large qantities of flour, vermicilli, macaroni, etc., are produced. Lima's chocolate factories, of which there are several, make a fine and popular article, as is attested by those who frequent the new cafes and restaurants, so popular during the late afternoon and evening hours. A biscuit factory is also well patronized by the housekeepers of the capital, while the manufacture of tobacco, cigars, and cigarettes for the male population has been a govern- THE CITY POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICES. Lima combines these two activities within one fine structure. The latter stands on a business street. near the corner of the Plaza Mayor, and is, therefore, conveniently located. The building is also a good example of the more modern business architecture of the city. Bbjm mm imm mm mm nmwmr tiL^i. Shrill* if. IJt J [;* .1. , ¦Of ¦3L- THE HUNICIPALIDAD, OH CITY HALL. This example of Spanish- American architecture shows the popular arcade feature of many Lima public buildings. Here the pedestrian on the sidewalk is protected from the rays of the sun. This building stands on the Plaza Mayor and always presents a busy appearance. 26 LIMA: THE CITY OF THE KINGS. ment monopoly for nearly 10 years, and a vast output comes from five factories in Lima, as well as from elsewhere in the republic. Closely associated with tobacco are two or more match factories of Lima. Chemical industries include the manufacture of cocaine, benzine, ammonia, gasoline, and numerous other products from the abundant raw supplies near at hand. The annual produc tion of leathei goods, boots and shoes, trunks, etc., in Lima, has grown extensively in recent years. Indeed, one studying the pos sibilities of manufacture in Peru should visit the new Commercial Museum in Lima and see the marvelous display of goods made both by hand and by machinery; and yet these numerous samples are only a few of the goods made in Lima and in other cities of Peru. The resorts and pleasure parks of the capital are numerous, and there are modern electric lines for reaching them from the heart of the city. Chorrillos, Barranco, Miraflores, La Punta, etc., offer those who love the sea fine opportunities for boating or bathing; and, indeed, a large number of people maintain their permanent homes on or near the Bay of Chorrillos, famous for its regattas and other aquatic sports. On the other hand, when the fogs and mist of winter overhang the coastal region many citizens of the capital find the sunny climate of Chosica especially appealing; the latter resort lies some 30 miles inland in the Andean foothills and directly on the Oroya Railroad. In 1870 an exposition was held in Lima, and naturally a number of new buildings were constructed in order to provide for exhibits and throngs of people. The name of Exposition Park seems to have become definitely fixed upon this suburb, and to-day we find that many of the people of wealth and influence have established their homes in that part of Lima. The park itself covers about 30 acres, and is laid out in beautiful walks, artificial lakes, grottoes, flower gardens, and other attractive features. Within the park is also located one of the finest restaurants in the whole city, and it is here in season that many of the exclusive society folk spend their evenings, surrounded by tropical plants and flowers and charmed by the beau tiful strains of the orchestral music, a feature of Lima life. In front of this park the most beautiful avenue of the capital, known as Paseo Colon, has been constructed. As indicated by the name, it is dedicated to the discoverer of America. It is nearly a mile long, is 150 feet wide, one end of which terminates at the new circle or Plaza Bolognesi. On either side of this avenue many costly residences have been built, along the middle of the avenue from end to end extends a border of flowers, and at intervals stand monuments representing the heroes of Peruvian history. A number of arches are studded with electric bulbs, which render the whole avenue especially attractive at night. On late afternoons and evenings the rt^rfiMliS-^iiiii, EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. Upper- One of the numerous patios of the University of San Marcos, established in 1551, and there fore the most ancient seat of learning in the Americas. Lower: The new medical school building of San Marcos. Students who have completed a two-year course in natural sciences, mathe matics, etc., are eligible for enrollment. The medical curriculum embraces a period of six years, after which the degree of physician and surgeon may be conferred. 28 lima: the city of the kings. Paseo Colon is alive with the elite of Lima society; gay parties in motor cars and carriages and pedestrians are there en masse, and up and down the Paseo they promenade, all enjoying rest and recreation from the cares of office or home, and presenting to the visitor within the city's gates a pleasing and lasting picture. Another delightful driveway of Lima is the Avenida de Magdalena, connecting the city and the seaside town of Magdalena, a distance of 3£ miles. This new street is 125 feet wide, and along its route stand fine shade trees; the Avenida de los Descalzas is still another street frequented by the masses, stretching as it does along the Rimac and being adorned with beautiful foliage, flowers, marble benches, and grassy plots. Other newer streets and avenues, such as Bolognesi, Grau, Ninth of December, etc., are fast becoming more popular, especially as the motor cars increase in number. Considering the city proper, there are about 35 public squares formed by the crossing of old and new streets, which offer restful seats or recreation grounds for the general public. The people of Lima are fond of sports and pleasures, and in this respect we note that older sports, like "playing the carnival," seem to be passing; although the writer retains vivid impressions of one of his visits to Lima at the carnival season when he was pelted again and again by perfumed and bursting water balls (bombas de perfume) thrown by young ladies and young men. This is only a single feature of the three-day carnival, but it carries innocent amusement and at times not a little excitement for the stranger. To-day horse racing is one of Lima's popular pastimes, the season extending from July to December. The Jockey Club is a well- conducted institution and its members are among the leading citizens of Peru. The President and other officials usually attend at least some of the events. The magnificent grand stand has seats for several thousand spectators and is usually well patronized. The race course is located near the Paseo Colon and measures about 4,900 feet in circumference. The Union Regatta Club is another leading body of younger citizens which provides pleasures and amusements associated with the summer season at the coastal resorts. There are also foot ball, tennis, cricket, and various other athletic societies which number among their members many leading ladies and gentlemen of the capital. One of the newest and most popular clubs is that devoted to aviation, a science that has already developed a number of famous Peruvian flyers, one of whom successfully crossed the Alps but gave up his life in accomplishing the feat. The name of this hero, Jorge Chaves, has been honored by a monument to his memory. Turning from outdoor pastimes to more serious walks of life, we find in Lima a number of societies devoted to scientific research, LIMA'S INSTITUTE OF HYGIENE. This is a new structure with modern facilities for scientific research and a staff for the improvemert of public sanitation, etc. THE NEW BUILDING OF THE SCHOOL OF ARTS AND CRAFTS. Within this edifice are laboratories, offices, and recitation halls, and also dormitories for many students. Training along these lines of work is becoming more popular among young people, and the result is proving a real asset to the country. Photo by W. V. Alford. A RUSTIC FOOTBRIDGE IN EXPOSITION PARK. Many of these features are seen in the park and the latter is a general rendezvous for the people of Lima throughout the year. Many animals are kept in the zoological section of the park, a feature especially pleasing to the children. Photo by Brown & Dawson. ONE OF THE ENTRANCES TO THE PARK OR EXPOSITION GROUNDS. The building, which stands a hundred feet or more inside the gates, is a restaurant. This is a popular resort for social parties, dances, and other functions, where open-air life is enjoyed to the fullest. The street on which this entrance fronts is the Paseo Colon. LIMA: THE CITY OF THE KINGS. b"±] social and historical questions, literature and art, etc. The famous Geographical Society has done very important work in connection with exploration of Andean ruined cities, map making, and other lines, and its meetings are a feature of the intellectual life of Lima. Numerous other societies are devoted to medicine, mining, music, engineering, agriculture, and allied activities, and as a result of frequent meetings the professional and business men of Lima are brought closely into persona! contact and acquaintanceship, an asset of high value to the community. In the upbuilding of Lima and the whole of Peru too much credit can not be given to the press. The capital and commercial metropolis is the home of a large number of daily, weekly, and monthly publica tions, the oldest of which, El Comercio, was established in 1839. The leading dailies, of course, receive and publish the cable news from all parts of the world, while correspondents in Peruvian cities and abroad keep their respective journals supplied with the latest happenings. Not only are journals of Lima published in the language of the country, but there are also certain editions that print columns or pages in other languages, while in recent years several English publications have interpreted Peruvian life and interests to a vast clientele of readers far beyond the bounds of the country. Lima's various societies also have their official magazines which reflect the activities and progress of their respective bodies. The facilities which Lima publishers have acquired for the pictorial side of jour nalism are also popular agencies for the dissemination of news. The City of the Kings has passed and new Lima is now an accom plished fact. Modernizing influences have been somewhat slower in coming than has been the case with countries receiving annually a large immigration from Europe — in numerous ways an asset, but sometimes a detriment. The world at war is rapidly evolving eco nomic changes. A greater commerce has enabled the city's financial institutions to reflect a pleasing increase in various lines of activity, only a few of which have been chronicled in the foregoing article. And the universal call for still larger quantities of the raw supplies that lie hidden beneath Peruvian soil foreshadows continued work and inflowing capital, and these factors are nowhere more noticeable than within the gates of the city. YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 9002 08837 3320 THE PAN AMERICAN UNION is the inter national organization and office maintained in Washington, D. C, by the twenty-one American republics, as follows: Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Domini can Republic, Ecuador, Guatemala, Haiti, Hon duras, Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Salvador, United States, Uruguay, and Venezuela. It is devoted to the development and advancement of commerce, friendly intercourse, and good under standing among these countries. It is supported by quotas contributed by each country, based upon the population. Its affairs are administered by a. Director General and Assistant Director, elected by and responsible to a Governing Board, which is composed of the Secretary of State of the United States and the diplomatic representatives in Wash ington of the other American governments. These two executive officers are assisted by a staff of international experts, statisticians, commercial specialists, editors, translators, compilers, libra rians, clerks and stenographers. The Union pub lishes a Monthly Bulletin in English, Spanish, Portuguese and French, which is a. careful record of Pan American progress. It also publishes numerous special reports and pamphlets on various subjects of practical information. Its library, the Columbus Memorial Library, contains 40,000 vol umes, 20,000 photographs, 150,000 index cards, and a large collection of maps. The Union is housed in a beautiful building erected through the munifi cence of Andrew Carnegie. 32 O