; it. ^^^;!v& v> ' Brazil: its inhabitants, climate, and productions. Francis H, Tintlenot. K. X. : 1865. f?- -s^^^i' >-' n't .- •¦ ti it' .F ^ ' pfef' -.-i-'t ^- -4'^<', itif^ ?¦ Brazil 'kM&^:.. Asri"^ sift'' , J* /I L L '»-^*-'*'i ¦-. ' .' it f J5%" ,.f • ''' if '<¦ ' s 0. t^'^' .¦^XTBX,lSIIE;r> BY THE ^TJTHOR 1865. BRAZIL: INHABITANTS, CLIMATE, AND PRODUCTIONS. FEANCIS H. TINTELNOT. • ^m |0rli: i»XTBr,IS"HEX) BY THE A.XTTHOE.. 1865. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1865, By rEANCIS H. TINTELNOT,- In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York, NEW York; EDWAKD 0. JENKINS, PHINTKE, 20 MOETH WILLIAM ST. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Discovery of Brazil — Portuguese Settlements — Narrow Policy of the Mother Country — Obstacles to Emigration — Independence of Brazil — ^Es tablishment of the Empire — Policy of the Grovernment in Eegard to Em igration — The Prejudices of the People the Main Obstacle to a Rapid Emigration — The Emperor and the Empress — ^Eeligion, Religious Toler ance — Church Festival — Population — Traits of Character of the Brazilians — Absence of Crime — Averseness of the Brazilians to Manual Labor — Ed ucation and Personal Appearance of the Ladies — Slavery in Brazil — Re marks on the Institution — Free Negroes ; their Political Rights and Posi tion in Society — Climate — Remarks on the Climate and Seasons — The Soil of Brazil —Public Debt — Revenue — Tariff — Railroads, etc. CHAPTER IL Division of the Empire into Provinces — ^The Provinces of Amazonia and Para —Population, Climate and Productions — Facilities of Water Transportation — Fertility of Soil — The City of Para — Discription— Com merce — The Provinces of Maranham, Piauhy, Ceara, Rio Grande do Norte, Peira, Pernambuco, Alagoas and Sergipe do Rei — Observations on the Provinces — Culture of Cotton — City of Pernambuco, its Commerce — Pro vinces of Bahia and Espirito Santo — Commerce of Bahia — Exportation of Sugar. CHAPTER III. Provinces of Rio de Janeiro and Santo Paulo— Population— Productions —Letter -of Robert G. Scott, Sr., Consul of the United States at Rio de Janeiro— Coffee Plantations— The Mode and Cost of Transporting Coffee to the Coast— Observations on the Coffee Tree— Increasing Consumption of Coffee— European Emigrants on the Coffee Plantations— The Contracts they make with the Owners of the Plantations— Coffee Culture— Sugar— b CONTENTS. Tea — Rice — Corn — Tapioca— Vegetables— Timber— Tropical Fruits— Game— Birds- Domestic Animals— Diseases— Yellow Fever— Healthiness of the Interior— Longevity— Simple Mode of Treating Diseases— The Beverages of the Country : Coffee, Wine, Ale and Porter— Manufacture of Rum and Whisky — Articles of Diet — Mea!l Hours. CHAPTER IV. Observations and Statistics on the Commerce of the Rio de Janeiro. CHAPTER V. Beauty of the Environs of Rio de Janeiro — Harbor — Passport Laws — Custom House Regulations— Noise and Bustle about the Landing Places — The City— Lack of Hotels— Streets— Splendor of the Shops— Fountains of Freestone Water — Suburbs — Retail Prices of Provisions, etc. — The Pro vinces of Santa Catharina and Santo Pedro do Sul — Observations on their Climate, Fertility and Productions. CHAPTER VI Description of the Interior Provinces, with Observations on Population, Climate, Natural Resources, Productions, etc. CHAPTER VII.— General Remarks. BRAZIL rrs INHABITANTS, CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. CHAPTER 1. The question is frequently asked — How is it that with so fertile a soil, so fine a climate, with so much territory and so great an amount of mineral wealth, that Brazil has not grown more rapidly in population and political importance. The coun try is compared with the United States in all these respects, and is found to suflfer greatly by the comparison, but the true cause of the difference is not generally understood. Brazil was discovered, taken possession of, and portions of it settled by the Portuguese in the early part of the sixteenth cen tury. At first, they held the country in a low estimation, as they did not realize their hopes of finding there large quantities of the precious metals. But in after years, when the extreme fertility of the soil became revealed, and when the introduction of African slavery developed its agricultural resources, they began to perceive its immense importance. So vigilant was the watch kept over it, the country was held in fetters until the year 1825, when it shook off its foreign yoke and became an independent empire. From this recent period, therefore, we must date Brazil in its career among other nations. For while under Portuguese rule, not only was emigration discouraged and prohibited, but Brazilians, Creoles and Portuguese settlers were submitted to the closest surveillance whenever patriotism or generosity led them to exert themselves for the advancement of the land of their adoption. The impotent mother country could then only feel secure in the possession of her colonies when they were re tained in a still greater state of prostration than herself, l^ow that these restrictions are removed and the unfettered govern ment has become more liberal, granting to settlers tracts of land, many an emigrant ship is speeding its way thither. Emigration, 8 BRAZIL : ITS INHABITANTS, however, falls very far short of what the great advantages of the country would lead one to expect. The main obstacles to a rapid ingress of population are to be found in the habits and prejudices of the Brazilians. They lie in the disposition and character of that people, such as they are, because of their race, and such as they have been made by climate and the force of circumstances. Manual labor is seldom performed by them, and is almost considered disreputable. It often happens that young Europeans, who come with letters of introduction to some commercial house of Eio de Janeiro, have to wait for weeks and months before any suitable employ ment can be obtained. Now, should one of these become weary of inactivity and express a desire to procure some occupation, 'no matter of what kind, so that it be honest and profitable, he will be advised to desist, on the ground of losing caste. He would be reminded that he was not in the United States, etc. The man who has amassed a fortune of twenty to thirty thousand' dollars who tells you that he has made most of his property by " hard licks," and boasts that he can split as many rails as the stoutest of his menials, and that he is not ashamed to confess it, you will not find there. Few persons who live in prosperity and abundance will leave their own country for the untried fortunes of a new one. Brazil must look to the poorer class for the bulk of her emigrants ; let labor become respected, let idleness cease to command premiums, and emigration will increase tenfold. Mechanics, the most use ful members of community, are there represented only by the free negroes — lazy wretches whose efforts go no further than to procure a supply of mandioca meal, fish and fruit ; and they are the more respected' for their indolence. Under these circum stances, the poorer emigrants can only feel comfortable and at, ease, when they emigrate in considerable bodies and in some pleasant and healthy locality form colonies. There, in a little world of their own, with unchanged habits of industry, of life and religion— they may dwell as pleasantly as in the old home stead, and at the same time enter upon a career of wealth which in their former homes was closed to them. Not always are those countries the most wealthy and populous whose soil is capable of sustaining the greatest populations. England does not owe her millions of men, and billions of wealth, to°a pleasant climate and fertile soil. Sicily was once the granary of Eome now it swarms with beggars; and the Island of Corsica has lately lost so much opulence and population by the very circum stance of fine climate and fertile soil, that the authorities of the island deliberated upon the propriety of cutting down the im mense forests of chestnuts, whose fruit pandered to the laziness ot the inhabitants. CLIMATE AND TRODUCTIONS. 9 Brazil is a constitutional monarchy, founded upon the liberty of the press and of speech. It has a Chamber of Deputies and a Chamber of Senators to legislate, and an Emperor for an execu tive. The first Emperor, Pedro I., was inaugurated in 1846. After his expulsion, the senate deliberated whether the Imperial form of government should not be changed to a Eepublic. To the Senator Vergueiro the empire owed its preservation. His son, who was an officer in the Prussian army, no sooner heard of the troubles of his country than he hastened thither ; and being a man of great talents and lofty ambition, he conceived plans to seize the reins of government himself. His few thousand parti sans were, however, soon dispersed, and his father's great political influence was barely sufficient to obtain for him a pardon. From that time he entered into agricultural and mercantile pursuits, in which he was still engaged at the time I left his house, eight years ago. The present Emperor is a fine-looking man, not at all of the Brazilian type. He has a fair complexion, light brown hair and blue eyes. He is free from ostentation, shows himself at public places with a small retinue, or is unattended. Unlike so many sovereigns who consider that their dignity is best preserved by reserve, he is very accessible. He is partial to foreigners, and always disposed to give audience to such as have new inventions to exhibit, and schemes of agricultural improvement to impart. The Empress is a blonde; she has blue eyes and very prepos sessing features. The Catholic is the established religion of the land, but all other religious sects are tolerated. There is an Episcopal church at Kio de Janeiro and several other Protestant houses of worship are scattered over the country. When the occasion so requires it, Protestant foreigners are expected to, and generally do con form to the customs of the land. For instance, on Church fes tivals, when the effigies of the Apostles and the Virgin Mary are carried through the streets, both Protestants and Catholics who may happen to be on the side-walks, bow on their knees before the saints, let the street? be ever so muddy. These processions are the most magnificent pageants the country ever exhibits. Directly after the church dignitaries, the images of saints, arrayed in silks and laces, and blazing with jewels are borne on scaffolds supported by the shoulders of church members. Next comes the band — the best one the empire can muster — ^then the bearers of wax torches, and finally the procession of ladies and gentlemen. A truly graceful part of the show are the numbers of little girls who flit up and down on the sides representing angels ; they are from five to seven years old, and are chosen from among the prettiest girls of the country. Their dresses are of blue and white gauze, bespangled with gold and silver stars. On their heads are 10 BRAZIL : ITS INHABITANTS, worn garlands of orange Ijlossoms and their feet are encased in white satin shoes. Ladies of the highest families often make a vow to save the life of a friend, or to avert any calamity, to follow the next procession, bare foot and bare headed. I have -seen as many as fifty of these fair devotees together. They go at night, as they could not follow a procession bare-headed in day time on account of the sun. The most pleasant festival occurs about the time of our Valentine's Day. At that time the restrictions of society are so far removed, as to allow ladies and gentlemen to make a comic war upon each other. The weapons employed are balls of very strong silk paper of the size of a hen's egg, filled with aromatic water. Now on that day some poor wight puts his foot out of doors for a walk, or pokes his head through the lattice over the balcony, for a snuff of fresh air ; presto ! dozens of green and yellow balls will whiz about his ears, one will perhaps strike his nose and another deluge his ruffles. Before a fellow has walked a hundred steps he has become perfectly inde pendent. His garments are then thoroughly saturated with the perfumed water, and he will not care how often he is hit, pro vided he can give his pretty friend a good drenching. I have often wondered how the Brazilians can believe so blindly in miracles performed by waxen hands and feet, or by water blessed by their priests, when I remember the utter contempt in which they hold their clergy. No other people in the world treat their clergy so badly as the Brazilians. If seen on steamboats or in public places, anywhere except at church, they are hooted and jeered at, pulled and tossed about, and create about the same sensation that an owl produces when he ventures in open day light among a large flock of smaller birds. The population of Brazil, according to the latest estimate, is 6,500,000, of which about one-fourth are whites, three-fifths negroes and mulattoes, and the remainder Indians. The great bulk of the whites are descended from the Portuguese. They are generally smaller of stature and of a. more delicate fi-ame than the Americans. They have dark eyes, black hair, and an olive complexion. Their hands and feet are particularly small. Many of the virtues and not a few of the vices peculiar to Southern races have found in them the highest development. There is not a more hospitable people on the globe. A letter of introduction ensures the stranger a home for months, if he desire it, and enables him to travel without expense in all the districts where white men live. This circumstance explains the .fact that there are hardly any places of public entertainment in the empire. Eio de Janeiro, the capital and great commercial emporium, a city of 225,00.0 inhabitants, has but one respectable hotel. CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 11 The Brazilians are extremely polite, and prodigal of titles. The common man is addressed by Vassa Merce (your honor), lUus- trissimo Senhor (most illustrious sire). Vassa Senhorea (your lordship) belongs to the better class, such as lawyers, physicians, etc.; while Vassa Excellancia (your excellency) is given to all judges, commanders, and mayors of towns, governors, etc. If you express a liking for anything a Brazilian happens to have about his person, such as a cane, a watch, or chain, he will often tell you, £stat a sas ordems (it belongs to you), and will insist upon your receiving it. But should it be an article of value, good breeding demands that you should refuse. Even the lowest of the whites are altogether free from that clumsiness and embarrassment which the humbler classes of northern races dis play when brought into contact with persons of rank and refine ment. Easy and pleasant of deportment, their self-possession never deserts them. They are everywhere at home, except in circles where solid and varied information is required. On the other hand, they have much less candor and openness of charac ter than the Teuton and Anglo-Saxon. Criminations and re criminations are rare matters. A downright good cursing, showing the overflow of an honest fellow's bile, and his irrepress ible desire to pour out his wrath forthwith, I never heard there in my life. For all this, however, they are a people who cherish revenge, and harbor malice for insults and wrongs. Smooth are the brows and smiling the lips of enemies when confronted ; keen and poisonous the words launched at each other from a distance. A peculiar feature of Brazilian society is the absence of such crimes as, in civilized society, are punished by the halter and confinement in prison. You seldom hear of murders, theft, robbery, or arson. The jails of the cities are empty, except when some English or American ship's crews get drunk, and commit depredations on shore. I was never able to solve this phenome non to my satisfaction. Perhaps the mildness of the climate, and the fertility of the soil, which enable the inhabitants to live with out much exertion, may have contributed to produce this effect. But after all, that traveller who says the Brazilians " are too lazy to commit crimes" comes probably nearer to the truth. No moneyed ari.stocracy exists in Brazil. This circumstance is not so decided an advantage to the country as one might be led to suppose, but, on the contrary, tends to confirm the indolent habits of the nation. The industrious and intelligent mechanic is but little appreciated, while the lounging idler is highly respected, simply because he is a man of leisure. Near our offices, in Santos, lived the widow of a mercantile clerk. She' had four or five daughters, and only a small property for their 12 BRAZIL : ITS INHABITANTS, support. Still she frequented the highest circles of society, and on occasions which required a little exertion to prepare suitable dresses, you might see them employed ; otherwise they would idle away the time dressed in domestic wrappers which well suited their lounging habits. Their food consisted principally of fruit, mandioca meal, and salt fish— the cheapest articles afforded by the market. I made a proposal to these ladies of some honest and lucrative employment by which their condition might have been improved; but, to my surprise, they were quite horrified at the idea of exerting themselves for a support. Labor was disgraceful in their eyes, and poverty altogether preferable. Hundreds of wealthy Brazilians send their children to Europe for the purpose of securing a superior education, although the country contains several good educational establishments. The ladies of Brazil are extremely pretty — much finer looking than the gentlemen. This is no doubt, in part, owing to the cir cumstance that from early childhood they are seldom exposed to the open air, consequently their complexions are as white as a lily, but seldom tinged with the rose. This white complexion, relieved by sparkling eyes and flowing locks of jet, which they are wont to adorn with a single white or red rose, gives them a peculiarly attractive appearance. The accomplishments, except of those educated in Europe, are limited to French, music, and dancing. .They usually sing, play, and dance well, but are dull in conversation. They pass their time idly, of course, while the entire management of the household is entrusted to servants. The slave population of Brazil amounts to about 3,200,000, of which 2,700,000 are employed on the plantations, and 500,000 are city laborers and domestic servants. Climate and diet com bine to bring the slaves of Brazil to the highest physical development. They are athletic, and live to a very great age. In 1855 the value of slaves ranged from three to five hundred dollars, but they are increasing in value in consequence of the greater amount of produce in the country, and also because the number of slaves is not increasing in ratio to the demand for labor. This results from the fact that there are three male slaves to one female throughout the country. The rite of marriao-e is generally dispensed with. Freedom of discussion in regard to slavery is permitted, and you may speak of it in all parts of the empire as you would of the crops, the points of a horse, the siege of Sebastopol, or any other topic, without arousing the ire of the Brazilian. If you are opposed to the institution, you may declare it to be an abomination, a violation of laws, human and divine, and you are not ridden on a rail, nor tarred and feathered for the expression of your opinions. The Brazilians feel so secure in the possession of their slave property that they can CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 13 afford to be tolerant. Slavery is indispensable in many of the districts, and profitable in all sections of the empire. Every one is interested in its perpetuation. Slaves are allowed, by the civil laws, to purchase their own freedom, of which many of the city negroes, who have greater facilities to make savings than farm laborers, often avail themselves. When free, they mostly join the army, which is mainly composed of free negroes. It has been argued that this preponderant element in the national army will cause the downfall of slavery should any great political revolution occur. In my opinion, it will be the mevns of secur ing its permanence. The free negroes have the same political rights as white men, and consider themselves as almost superior to the slaves. The latter are fed on the meal of mandioca (farina), bacon, beans, rice, sugar and molasses. They also enjoy fruit and coffee ad libitum. Some masters exercise great cruelty over their slaves. Several in stances occurred under my observation where slaves died under the infliction of corporeal punishment. Though the law does not sanction these barbarities, the offender is seldom prosecuted and brought to justice for them. The situation of the domestic servant is pleasant enough. On Sundays and during the frequent ChUrch festivals of this Catholic country they are not required to labor. The female portion of them then appear in muslins and silks, blazing with all the gew gaws and trinkets of which the African is so fond. The African slave trade was not suppressed in Brazil until the year 1850. The following table shows the number of slaves imported from Africa into Brazil : 1842 17,435 1847 50,173 1843 19,035 1848 60,000 1844 23,840 1849 54,000 1845 19,453 1850 23,000 1846 50,324 1851 8,487 The figures for 1851 evidence the vigilance of the government in the detection of those engaged in the traffic. It may be remembered that of the 3,487 given for 1851, 1,006 were re captured by the Brazilian cruisers, and declared free. The free negroes and mulattoes of Brazil may be put down at 600,000. They have the same political rights as the whites and are eligible to office if they show extraordinary talents, and have not too much African blood. There was once a mulatto Bishop in Eio de Janeiro, and I knew a mulatto Senator of Santo Paulo — Don Antonio Joaquim da Louza Bueiroz. Such cases, however, are extremely rare. There are very few of them among the more liberal professions; they are mostly mechanics and day-laborers. 14 BRAZIL : ITS INHABITANTS, The social position of even the wealthy and educated is decidedly inferior to that of the whites. There is no intermarrying between the different races. No white of any pretension to respectability would marry a female with ever so little African blood in her veins. These Quadroons and Octoroons are very often pretty, and sometimes wealthy and well educated. The aborigines of the country are partly civilized and partly savage. They have no firearms, but in lieu of them, use spears and bows and arrows for weapons. They subsist on fruit and game, and are pacific in their dispositions, rarely disturbing the white settlers. Climate. — There are three distinct climates in Brazil. That of the Amazon Valley is altogether tropical, except that there are no dry and rainy seasons. The nights are cloudless, but in the morning clouds accumulate and continue till the afternoon, when torrents of rain prevail for two hours, and all is clear again. The climate of the interior, and also of west Brazil, is more varied, the heat in the dry season being excessive, while frosty nights are of frequent occurrence in the winter. Eain in some situations is a rare occurrence. Of the climate of the southern and south eastern parts, I shall give a more minute description, as districts infinitely more worthy of attention. These regions are blessed with the most genial climate in the world. In the summer months of December, January, February and March, the tempera ture corresponds with that of Alabama in the months of June, July and August, only the heat is not felt to be so oppressive on account of the sea-breezes that prevail near the sea-shore, and the regular highland winds which blow in the upper countries over the Plateau. Only when the wind blows from the northwest, which in the summer seldom occurs, is the heat oppressive. The winter, and portions of the spring and fall are so delightfully tempered, so adapted to the comforts of white men, that mere existence becomes a luxury. The days then somewhat resemble our Indian summer, only that the air is much softer, and the trees and shrubs retain their green foliage during the year. The air is so pure that the silver streams on the mountain -slopes appear to be only two or three miles distant, when in reality one would be obliged to travel twelve or fifteen miles to reach them. The nights hardly vary in temperature from the days. I never saw nor heard of frost in these localities. These regions are also blessed with regular and seasonable rains. It is rare that a week passes without a good shower; and if immediately after you sally out on the high road, or in the woods, the perfume emitted by the numerous fragrant plants and shrubs is quite intoxicating. I have often dismounted from my mule, and, seated on a log, have enjoyed for hours, the rich vanilla aroma exhaled by the cactus. climate and productions. 15 Uniformity of temperature, snch a distinguishing feature of this climate, is produced by its topographical situation. South and east winds blow over an immense tract of sea, as also do the west winds, except where the narrow continent intervenes. The north west wind alone reaches them over a solid tract of land. Water being a much better conductor than land, the surface of the latter heats and cools off quicker than the former. So that contiguity to water both tempers the heat of summer and softens the rigor of winter. In the United States — where the solid continent squarely stretches from New York to San Francisco, from the Arctic Ocean to New Orleans — the great variations in tempera ture of the different seasons, and the changes of temperature pro duced by winds are very destructive to health, and no doubt shorten human life. In no country do consumption and rheuma tism commit so many ravages as in the United States — complaints altogether unknown in this portion of Brazil, where many foreign ers affected by these diseases have become completely restored to their primitive vigor. The provinces comprised in these salu brious and pleasant districts, are Rio de Janeiro, Santo Paulo, Santa Catarina and Santo Pedro do Sul. Eio de Janeiro lies rather too much northward and has a somewhat warmer climate, but this delightful climate is eminently enjoyed by the three last named provinces. The surface of Brazil is about equally divided into uplands and lowlands, or valleys. Two parallel mountain ranges traverse the country from north to south, forming elevated ridges of table land, the greatest height of the central range bei^g from 6,000 to 7,000 feet. Several minor ranges intersect the country, enclosing tracts, some of which are elevated and others low level plains. The northern part of Brazil consists of the vast plain through which flows the Amazon river and its tributaries. It varies in width from 350 to 800 miles. The rivers, lakes and water courses are so numerous as completely to intersect this great plain. The soil is deep and soft, and for the most part covered by dense forests. Southeast of this lies another plain. The principal rivers in this direction are the Tocantins, Araguay, Paranahyba, San Francisco, Belmonte, Doce, ParahibadoSuland Rio Grande do Sul — all large streams, but of difficult navigation in consequence of rapids. The table land on the west is separated from the Andes of Bolivia, by a large and extensive plain, tra versed by those rivers which unite and form the Madeira. The elevation of this plain is from 14,000 to 15,000 feet. On the banks of Ireicana, and westward to the north branch of the Serra Pareces, extends a sandy and nearly barren desert called Campos das Pareois. From seven lakes on this table land rises the river Paraguay, which flows southward, through a swampy country over the great plain of Paraguay to join the Parana. The latter 16 brazil: its inhabitants, has a course of thousands of miles, and receives the Eio Grande, Paranahyba, Tapucahy, Pardo, etc. Several small streams flow in a southeasterly direction into the Atlantic. The debts and liabilities of Brazil in 1851 may be estimated m round numbers at £40,500,000. Of these Foreign Debts £6,187,000 Local Funded Do . - 7,540,000 Notes in Circulation 6,700,000 Treasury Bills Afloat 240,000 Total £20,667,000 The revenue of the country in the same year was $19,000,000, arising partly out of the proceeds of public property ,_ such as diamond was'heries, mines, etc., partly out of tariffs on imported goods, and partly on the taxes on exports. The following table exhibits the tariff in regard to the principal articles imported from the United States : Oil — Spermaceti — 3 pints ' . . $0.38 Fish, dried and smoked, 357 ad iialoi'em 6.58 Lumber and Boards, 9,000 square inch 6.53 Manufactures of Wood, 407 ad i^alorem Butter 0.13 Cheese 0.13 Pork and Bacon 0.05 Lard, 33 lbs 1.63 Flour per barrel 1.50 Spirits, 50 per cent, ad valorem Molasses, " " " Beer, 3 pints 0.33 Linseed Oil, per pound O.SJ Spirits of Turpentine 0.10 Hats, of Fur and Silk each 26c. to $2.50 Gunpowder, per pound 0.19 Boots and Shoes, each 35c. to 5.25 Cable and Cordage, 128 pounds 4.90 Salt, li peck 0.17 Lead, 128 pounds 8.37 Iron, Pig, " 3.27 " Bar, 25 per cent, ad valorem. " Nails and Castings, 82 pounds 2.62 " other Manufactures, from $3 to 3.50 Drugs and Medicine, per pound, from 2 to 19.50 Wearing Apparel, 40 per cent, ad valorem. Books, 30 per cent. '' Paper of all kinds, ream 9c. to 1.90 Jewelry, 30 per cent, ad valorem. Glass, 40 per cent. " The first railroad in Brazil was thrown open to the public on the 30th of Aoril. 1854. the inaueuration taking place in the pre- CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 17 sence of their Imperial Majesties and an immense concourse of the leading personages of the empire. This railroad has its ter minus in the city of Rio de Janeiro. Since then quite a number of railroads have been projected, and are in course of construc tion. The most important of these are tbe Pernambuco Road ; the Bahia Road, from Bahia to the San Francisco River, a dis tance of 250 miles ; and the road from Santos to Santo Paulo. CHAPTER IL The empire is divided into nineteen provinces, fourteen situ ated along the shores of the ocean, and four in the interior, the relative population of wbich. is exliibited in the following table, drawn up according to the most recent and accurate authorities : MARITIME PROVINCES. Sq. Miles. Population. Para 534,370 165,000 Maranhan 94,960 390,000 Piauhy 109,668 80,000 Ceara 66,378 190,000 Rio Grande do Norte 28,800 1 10,000 Paraiba 59,948 260,000 Pernambuco 108,896 600,000 Alagoas 75,036 220,000 Sergipe do Rei 40,484' 175,000 Bahia 303,020 780,000 Espirito Santo 43,200 140,000 Rio de Janeiro 89,466 850,000 Santo Paulo 173,160 458,000 Santa Catarina 31,746 90,000 Santo Pedro do Sul 118,758 260,000 INTERIOR PROVINCES. Amazona 750,000 145,000 MinasGeraes 260,450 900,000 Matto Grosso 865,800 180,000 Goyaz 360,750 185,000 3,965,800 6,150,000 The provinces of Amazona and Para lie between the equator and the seventh degree of southern latitude, extending from Peru and Bquador to the Atlantic Ocean. They embrace, as shown by the table above, the third part of the empire's territory, but have only the twentieth part of its population. The land is flat, and formed from the alluvions of the Amazon and its tributaries, and has, for depth and richness of soil, no equal in the world. 2 18 brazil: ITS inhabitants. But, alas ! the white man cannot live, at least, cannot labor in this climate. With fifty millions of Africans, and the Anglo- Saxon as the master race, this country might become a Paradise, and that only under the supposition that the clearing of the forests, the draining of lagunes and marshes, and the general im provement of the rivers, must drive away the myriads of mosquitoes which infest these provinces, and render life almo.st intolerable. As it is, the great fertility given by nature to this valley seems to have been bestowed to no purpose. No benefit arises from it to the civilized world, nor will arise for centuries to come. Tbe Indian of these regions is placed above the neces sity of labor by the spontaneous productions of the forest, and the negroes employed on the scattered river plantations decrease daily, great numbers being removed to the coffee plantations of Rio de Janeiro and Santo Paulo. Para the outlet and commercial city of these regions has only four per cent, of the commerce of the empire, notwithstanding it enjoys the advantage of magnificent water transportation. Few Brazilians of the wealthier and more civilized provinces, such as Eio de Janeiro and Santo Paulo feel any interest in, or are acquainted with the Amazon country. They regard it, such as it is in truth, a barbarous region, doomed, on account of climatic obstacles, to neglect for centuries to come. In the United States, on the contrary, this section of the empire is better known than any other. The reason of this is that the Amazon affords greater facilities to travel, and that its shores, abounding with tropical birds, trees, shrubs and flowers, all peculiar to the equatorial regions, have the greatest attraction for the man of science. Most explorations and descriptions of travel, therefore, relate to this country. Lieut. Houdon's report is extensively circulated, but his readers complain that he gives no information about the interior of the country, but describes only the immediate sliore of the river. The fact is, independent of scientific investigations, this country demands but few words. It is a tract of land larger than the Southern and Middle States of the Union, and inhabited only by 100,000 Indians; a land mostly level, a soil of unsurpassed fertility, covered with a dense growth, and the greatest variety of useful and costly timber, and with an impenetrable luxuriance of aromatic plants and medicinal shrubs ; but a land also upon which civilization has not yet stamped her first impression, and where precious stones have run to waste from year to year, since the earth was made. By his description of the cocoa plantations, of the gathering of turtle -eggs, and of the process to convert them into butter, of the collection of Indian rubber and its man ufacture, etc., Lieut. Houdon has, in a pleasant manner, grati- CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 19 fied the curiosity of his readers ; his statements of the fertility of the country, which he asserts can under proper cultivation feed the whole world, and which can be made to produce four crops in a year, fill us with amazement; but his accounts of the mos quitoes, and of the climate which so enervates the inhabitants that famine prevailed in many villages, and that the better species of food, such as chickens, could be procured but at few places, should banish from every American the thought of ever seeking Amazonia as a home. The seaport of the two provinces is the city of Para, with a population of 10,000 inhabitants mostly of European descent. Para stands on elevated ground, on the south side of the bay of Guazuara, on the right bank of the Tocantins, and has a fine appearance from the river. Chief edifices — the governor's palace, cathedral, several other churches, convents, barracks, arsenal, Episcopal Palace and Seminary, formerly a Jesuits College, a prison and an unfinished theatre. Vessels of large draft can lie near the city, and the cocoa, caoutchouc, isinglass, rice and drugs exported from Brazil, are chiefly from Para. It has also a trade in vanilla, cotton, amatti, dyewoods, honey, wax and a great variety of other vegetable and animal products. The trade is mostly with Liverpool, London, Barbadoes, Cayenne and the North American and Brazilian Ports. The river Para, bound ing the island of Marajo southward, extends between longitude 18° 10' and 50° 40' W. recrosses the Tocantins and Anapee from the south, and is connected northwestward with the Amazon. Para enjoys an advantage over all seaport towns in Brazil — that of an unobstructed intercourse by water with the interior. The commercial resources of this province, and the admirable trading position of the city are unsurpassed, but inhabitants are wanting to develop these elements of commerce and civilization. In 1840, some American citizens established several sawmills at Maguery, in the vicinity of Para ; but whether they met with better success than did the Glasgow merchants, whose property to the amount of $350,000 was pillaged in the same place during the revolt of 1835, has not been ascertained. The cotton of Para has been highly praised. Caoutchouc, the use of which was first discovered in 1835, by French Academicians sent to Brazil to make astronomical observations, is abundant, and is ex tensively manufactured into shoes, etc. Were this article ad mitted into the United States as in England, free of duty, it would become one of the staple exports of this country. A well-informed American merchant, residing at Para, addressed a letter on this subject to one of the officers of Lieut. Houdon's expedition to the Amazon, urging the disadvantage under which American commerce labors, as compared with Great Britain, in regard to the caoutchouc trade. This article is now becoming 20 BRAZIL : ITS INHABITANTS, the chief staple in the province of Para ; and so various and multiform are the uses to which it is applicable, both in the arts and in domestic economy ; so important an article of commerce has it already become, that even against the import duty of ten per cent, in the United States, it constitutes almost fifty per cent. of our trade with Para. The following statement exhibits the quantities of indiarubber imported from Para into the United States during the years designated. Value 1850 1854 Pounds 1,500,000 3,380,000 1855 2,740,000 $1,660,000 The exports of Para are caoutchouc, cotton, rice, castor oil, copaiba, anise seed oil, cocoa, cloves, cinnamon, hides, horns, ifeinglass, Peruvian bark, etc. In this province, the sugar and coffee plantations do not produce sufficient for home consump tion, and supplies of these articles are generally imported from the neighboring provinces. The imports from foreign countries, consist of cotton goods, silks, hardware, wines, spirits, salt, flour, salt provisions, gunpowder, etc. The only manufactures are ordinary cotton cloths for sacks and hammocks, and indiarub ber shoes ; but these manufactures seem not to thrive from a want of skill in their direction or from a want of proper en couragement. Total number of vessels, with their tonnage engaged in the trade between Para and foreign countries, and value of exports and imports, etc., in 1848 and 1850: Imports $ 740,000 Exports 975,000 Imports 1,050,000 Exports 1,500,000 Staple productions of Para relatively considered, with respect to the quantities annually exported : Caoutchouc. ... 32,500 Arobas of 82 pounds Cocoa 200,000 Cotton 6,120 Hides 15,500 Pieces. Copavea 3,800 Pots. Rice 180,000 Arobas. Sugar 46,000 Indiarubber Shoes 192,000 Pairs. •1848. Vessels. Tons. Entered . ...88 12,828 Cleared . . ..83 12,029 1850. Entered . ...90 16,877 Cleared . ,..92 16,433 CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 21 The above are the leading exports froni Para; but besidesthese the province produces various kinds of timber admirably adapted for ship building, and a great variety of textile plants, medicinal drugs and dyewoods of the richest qualities. The provinces of Maranham, Piauhy, Ceara Rio Grande do Norte, Peira, Pernambuco, Alagoas, Sergipe do Rei, lie along the Atlantic Coast between the third and twelfth degree of southern latitude, and extend from two to four hundred miles into the in terior. With a total area of 5,600,000 square miles, they have a population of 2,025,000 inhabitants. Their climate is in so far different from Amazonia, as the excessive heat of the summer is tempered by sea-breezes on the shore, and in some of the pro vinces also by a considerable elevation. Their soil is also of the highest fertility, and is particularly well adapted for the cultiva tion of cotton and sugar. All the cotton that Brazil now pro duces, to the number of about 200,000 bales, is made in the pro vinces. Another important staple is dyewood (Brazil wood), which is principally exported from the port of Pernambuco. The two principal cities are Maranham and Pernambuco. Pernam- huco, the capital of the province of that name, is inferior only to Rio de Janeiro and Bahia in commercial importance. Population estimated in 1852 at 100,000. Foreign vessels are not allowed to engage in the coasting trade, but they can load here for any foreign port. Vessels from the United States can discharge part of their cargo, and, if desired, they can proceed on with the re mainder to Bahia, Eio de Janeiro, etc. There are no insurance offices here, all such business being done either in the United States or England. With funds in hand, a commission of two and a half is charged. Vessels are generally chartered both ways, arriving with flour, the charterer stipulating for a return cargo of sugar. Vessels carrying out on their own account may be chartered back as low as 60 cents a bag of 160 pounds. Usually, however, the freight ranges from 80 cents to one dollar per bag of sugar. There is no business done in ex change between this port and the United States, except a few whalers' drafts, that are purchased at from two to twelve per cent. discount. The value of the milreis is governed by the state of exchange on England. The principal articles imported from the United States are flour and tea. The former pays a duty of three milreis ($1.50) per barrel, and the latter pays thirty cen,ts per pound, hams pay six cents per pound, tobacco nine cents per pound, sugar and hides are the only articles of export worth men tioning. Sugar pays an export duty of eight per cent. The ex port duty on hides is 10 per cent, on a valuation fixed weekly by a committee appointed for the purpose. The only articles on which the government levies a consumer's tax are, all spirituous and malt liquors, cigars, tobacco, soap and snuff. Wines and 22 BRAZIL : ITS INHABITANTS, liquors pay one and a ¦ half per cent, a canada (a gallon and three-fifths) ; fifty-six cents in addition to this is levied on each pipe, for what the decree calls charitable purposes. Cigars pay fifty-six cents per hundred ; tobacco one_ cent per pound; soap one and a quarter cents per pound. The provinces of Bahia and Espirito Santo lie between the twelfth and twenty-second degree of southern latitude, and ex tend from 150 to 200 miles into the interior. Their area is 245,000 square miles, their population 920,000 inhabitants. The climate is much more adapted to the constitution of the Caucas- sian. The principal exports are sugar and tobacco. The pro vince of Bahia has also the most important diamond districts of the country The city of Bahia has a population of 100,000 inhabitants, one- third of whom are white, one-third mulattoes,and the rest blacks. According to the observation of Mr. Eoussin, the lighthouse on the Cape is in latitude 13 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds south. The opposite side of the entrance to the bay is formed by the island of Taparica, distant from Cape San Antonio about one and a half leagues. Within, the bay expands into a capacious basin, having several islands and harbors, the depth of water varying from eight and ten to forty fathoms, affording ample accommoda tion and secure anchorage for the largest fleets. Statement of sugar exported from Bahia during the year 1856- 57, compared with the export for the year 1855-56. Whither exported. Cases. Boxes. Bags. Tons. Channel British .. . . 11,023 188 41,445 10,100 Great Britain 4,809 188 70,414 8,160 Germany 1,019 16 10,283 1,390 Holland 405 1 1,775 888 France 484 1 14,116 1,830 Sweden 3,336 24 1,707 2,209 Portugal 7,832 408 13,338 6,053 Gibraltar 2,402 180 21,813 3,154 Genoa 2 3,596 257 Trieste 1,373 2 1,564 130 United States 1,401 8 18,144 1,840 River Platte 4 254 9,097 725 Pacific 1,633 16 Africa 1 8 69 8 Total, 1856-57 33.889 1,315 303,234 36,650 1855-56 42,315 808 170,173 33,160 Bahia founded in 1549, by Thomas da Sousa, first captain-gen eral of Brazil, is one of the most important commercial cities of America. In 1853, the trade of Bahia -was very extensive. About 60,000 tons of sugar, 18,500 bags of cotton, 20,000 bags of coffee, with hides, tobacco, rice, dye and fancy woods, bullion, etc. The CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 23 imports consist principally of cottons aud other manufactured goods, provisions, flour, salt, salt fish, soap, wine, etc. The provinces of Eio de Janeiro and Santo Paulo lie be tween the 22d and 25th degree of southern latitude. Their area is 260,000 square miles, with a population of 1,350,000 inhabi tants. They are the wealthiest and most populous provinces, having about five inhabitants to the square mile. Tbe popula tion of Alabama being about 19 inhabitants to a square mile, it will be seen how much room there is yet left for new settlers. The climate, as I have already said, is the finest in the world, and capable of bringing the Caucasian to a high physical development. The principal produce is coffee ; but cotton, tobacco and particu larly sugar can be cultivated to great advantage. At the suggestion of several gentlemen interested in the pro duction, as well as in the trade of cotton, a circular was issued from the Patent Office on the 29th of February, 1856, and for warded through the Department of State, to our diplomatic and commercial agents, missionaries, officers of the navy, and other public functionaries, residing and traveling in the principal countries of the globe, soliciting from them such information on the subject as might be at their command. Tbe following is the reply of Robert G. Scott, Jr., Consul of the United States, at Rio de Janeiro: " All kinds of cotton can be cultivated to advantage in the pro vince of Eio de Janeiro, whether annual or perennial varieties; but the small quantity that is produced is almost exclusively tree cotton, of the introduction of which there is no record. Its seed, however, no doubt came originally from Asia. The general character of the fibre is long, sti-ong and somewhat coarse. Whether it has deteriorated or not, it is impossible to say. The quantity produced is so limited, that no account is taken of it ; nor is any of it exported. The quantity manufactured here does not probably amount to 500,000 pounds a year. There is only one factory in the province, and it manufactures very coarse and heavy cloths, for bagging and negro wear. "Good ginned cotton generally rules at from 200 to 250 reis per pound, or say about 12 or 13 cents of our currency. It is nearly all imported from Pernambuco, Bahia, and other northern ports of this empire. It is ginned mostly by roller gins. Saw gins are also used, but much cotton is still ginned by hand. A hun dred pounds of unginned cotton produce from 25 to 30 pounds of ginned cotton, and sometimes even more when the saw gin is used. These gins all come from the United States, but the roller gins are made where tbe cotton grows. That brought from the northern parts is very badly packed by screw press into bales of from 120 to 160 pounds. 24 BRAZIL : ITS INHABITANTS, " The cost of production of a jiound of fibre well ginned cannot be accurately determined where no plantation is regularly de voted to its culture. But the usual calculation is, that one negro can cultivate 2,000 hills of cotton, producing about 700 pounds when ginned. " The soil and climate are finely and perfectly adapted to the growth of cotton. The thermometer ranges from about 60 degs. to 95 degs. Fahrenheit the whole year round, and cotton bears more or less nearly all the time. Eespecting the quatitity of rain which falls during the year, I can only state that it is sufficient for the cultivation of cotton. • " The mode of cultivation is as follows : — The land is first cleared of wood and underbrush, which is burned where it falls. Then the ground is hoed up into hills about seven feet apart. In each seven or eight seeds are planted. In ten or fifteen days the seeds sprout, and when the young plants have attained their sufficient strength, four or five of the weaker ones are rooted up and thrown away, leaving three or four plants in each hill. In from six to eight months they yield the first crop of cotton, and they continue to bear well for five or six years, provided they are properly trimmed, aud the ground cleared from weeds, etc., once or twice a year. When the cotton is planted it is usual to plant or sow rice, beans, pumpkins, or other crops on the spaces be tween the hills. Even Indian corn is so planted, and with advantage, on account of the shade it affords to the young cotton trees. Of course this is only done when the cotton is planted, as in a short time the tree attains the height of twelve to fifteen feet, and if the soil is good, the trunk often grows to four inches in diameter, and naturally branches out in proportion. No manure of any kind is used for the cotton crop, nor anywhere, indeed, except in gardens and lots for grasses. The seeds are generally planted in November. The plants flower mostly in June, but they open freely almost all the year. The bulk of the harvest is in September and October, but cotton is picked also nearly all the year. The product per acre, and the value of cotton lands, cannot be well determined, because of the limited experience in this department of culture. " The causes which operate against this branch of industry are, first, habit of routine, which induces the planter to cultivate coffee rather than anything else, because his father aud grand father did so before him, and because all of his neighbors do so now, and he dislikes innovation and change, and sees no market for a cotton crop. Second, habits of idleness — want of energy and enterprise. No cause, physical, political nor social, except such as have been named, so far as 1 am aware, operates injuri ously to the cultivation of cotton in this empire." CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 25 The coffee plantations are from 50 to 250.miles from the coast, and most of that staple is brought to market on mule back. For this purpose planters, or persons who make a regular pursuit of it, keep large droves of mules, sometimes to the number of 500, the^ maintenance of which, on account of the cheapness of corn, which is worth from 18c. to 25c. per bushel, and on account of the abundance of grass, is not expensive. A mule is loaded with from 110 to 130 pounds of coffee, which is packed in panniers in such a manner that the weight on each side of the animal is equal. There is only one driver to about thirty mules. On their return, these baskets are loaded with goods for the country, mostly with salt. There is only one driver to about forty mules. To an American this odd manner of transportation would seem to absorb the profits of the farmer, but facts show that this mule transportation is not much more expensive than our transportation on railroads at the present day. I will give the cost of transportation from several fazendas (plantations) far off from the coast. Fazenda of Joaquim Antonio Rodriguez, 150 miles from the seaport. Transportation of the aroba, 32 IbS. of coffee, 1,500 reis; the milreis at 52c., equal to 78c., which would make a freight of not quite 2^ cents per pound. Fazenda of Jos6 An tonio da Silva, distance 210 miles ; freight per aroba, 1,900 reis, equal to one dollar. The freight on coffee from the nearer plan tations, is from one half a cent to one cent. The coffee tree is a native of Ethiopia and Abyssinia, but it was in Arabia that it first became an object of interest and importance to the civilized world. The plant is an evergreen, from six to twelve feet high, and the stem is ten, twelve, and fifteen inches in circumference. When it is full grown, it much resembles in figure our apple trees of eight or nine years' standing. The lower branches ordinarily bend when the tree begins to grow old, and extend themselves into a round form, somewhat like an umbrella; and the wood is so very limber and pliable, that the ends of the longest branches may be bent down within two or three feet of the earth. The bark is whitish, and somewhat rough. Its leaf is much like that of the citron tree. It continues green all the year, and the tree is never without leaves, which are ranged almost opposite on each side of the bough, and at small distances from each other. Nothing is more singular in its kind than its productions ; for almost in all seasons of the year blossoms and green and ripe fruit may be seen on the same tree at the same time. When the blossom falls off, there remains in its room, or rather springs from each blossom, a small fruit, green at first, but which becomes red as it ripens, and is not unlike a large cherry, and is very good to eat. Under the flesh of this cherry, instead 26 BRAZIL: ITS INHABITANTS, of the stone, is found the bean or berry we call coffee, wrapped round in a thin, fine skin. The berry is then very soft, and of a disagreeable taste ; but as the cherry ripens, the berry m the inside grows harder, and the dried up fruit, being the flesh or pulp of it, which was before eatable, becomes a shell or pod of a deep brown color. The berry is now solid, and of a clear, transparent green. Each shell contains one berry, which splits into two equal parts. When the fruit is sufficiently ripe tobe shaken off from the tree, the husks are sepai-ated from the berries, and are used in Arabia by the natives, while the berries are ex ported for the European markets. The coffee tree is most pro ductive on hills and slopes where its root is almost always dry, and its head frequently watered with gentle showers. It prefers a westerly exposure, and a loose, gi'avelly soil, but freed from weeds and grass. The plants are in>^erted at distances of six or eight feet asunder, and in holes from twelve to eighteen inches deep. If left to themselves, they would rise to the bight of six teen or eighteen feet ; but in extensive plantations the trees are topped and stunted to about five feet, for the convenience of having the fruit within reach of the gatherer. Thus dwarfed, they extend their branches until they cover the whole spot round about them. They begin to yield fruit the third year. By the fifth, sixth, or seventh year, acpording to the nature of the soil, they are at full bearing, and continue to bear for upwards of twenty years. It has but recently come to the knowledge of Europeans that the leaves of tbe coffee plant contain the same essential principle for which the berries are so m,uch valued, and that in the Dutch island of Sumatra, in the Indian Archipelago, the natives scarcely use anything else, and greatly prefer a beverage made from the leaf'to the berry itself. The leaves un dergo a process of curing similar to t-ea, and they possess all the virtues of either tea or coffee. This may be looked upon as the introduction of a new element among the innocent and beneficial necessaries of life ; for while the culture of the coffee plant, for the sake of its fruit, is limited to particular soils and high tem perature, the tree produces leaves in abundance anywhere within the tropics whore the soil is sufficiently fertile. The climate of Brazil is highly favorable to the cultivation of coffee, the trees yielding nearly doable those of the West Indies. The coffee growth of Brazil by 1854 reached the astonishing quantity of 400,000,000 pounds, while the production of the West India Islands has rapidly declined. The coffee-growing districts of Brazil are divided into the Serra Arbaixo (or below the mountains), and Serra Acima (above the mountains). Tlie produce of the former is about one sixth part of the whole crop in good years, but is much more un- CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 27 certain than the Serra Acima, being more liable to injury from drought. The quality is also inferior, and seldom shipped to the United States. The trees usually flower three times each year, generally in August, September, and October, and are ready for picking, in favorable seasons, in March, April, and May, with considerable variation, according to situation. In April small quantities of poor new coffee appear in market. In May and June the quantity is greater, but never abundant till July and August. Tbe trees of Serra Acima bloom later, but the crop is more uniform, enabling planters to gather a crop at a single picking, which is a great saving of labor. Entire cargoes are not generally obtained from the Serra Acima districts until August and September. Usually, the supplies remaining over of the old crop are first sent to the market before planters clean out the new, and hence it is often as late as October and November before the bulk of the new crop is in market. The cost of transporting the coffee to market averages the planter about two cents per pound, owing to imperfect facilities. The actual cost of production is said to be not much under four cents per pound ; and as negroes are decimated by cholera, without new importations to supply their place-s, negroes must advance in value and enhance the cost of production. The question of labor in the cultivation of this and other tropi cal productions which have become commercial necessities to the populations of the northern latitudes, which embrace the largest civilized portions of the human race, is becoming one of great im portance. The growing deficiency must not only continue, but in time greatly enhance the price of these products which have be come necessaries of life, and tend to drain the money from north ern nations, in order to secure them, or, in other words, place them under heavy tribute for articles which are from habit necessary to their comfort and well-being. England, through her East India possessions, is, no doubt, anxious to secure as large a share of this tribute as possible, and may, to a certain extent, succeed with indigo, sugar, and coffee; but she has failed, and will con tinue to fail, in the production of cotton. The value of slaves in Brazil — the only South American State which has made any great progress, and that through African labor — has for several years steadily increased. Prior to 1830, when the slave trade was legal, slaves were sold at $66. From 1830 to 1850, when the trade was, under treaties with England, prohibited, and had to be conducted clandestinely, they advanced to $220. Since 1850, the trade having been almost entirely suppressed, they have gradually advanced to from 400 to 500 dollars. This gradual decrease of the black labor force in the empire could not fail to be followed by a corresponding 28 BRAZIL: ITS INHABITANTS, decrease of the coffee crop if another element of labor had not, of late, been secured to the country — I mean colonists from Eu rope. It is owing to this European element that, notwithstanding the decrease of slave labor since 1850, the bulk of exports from the country has increased. The greater part of these European settlers are so poor that either the Government of Brazil or some wealthy planters of that country have to advance them the greater part or the whole of the passage money, which from Europe averages about $25 to the person. Arrived in Brazil, without any means whatever, they generally form this contract with some rich planter who may be in need of their services : The Brazilian is to deliver to a party of colonists, say of 200 or 300 persons, a coffee plantation of the size adapted to their number. The coffee trees must be in full bearing, four or five years old ; and there must be a sufficient number of dwellings on the place so as to give to each family their own habitation. The planter is also to furnish to each family a requisite stock of cows, hogs, poultry, etc. The colonists keep the plantation free from weeds and grass, and gather and clean tbe crop. The net proceeds of the crop are then equally divided between the planter and the colonists. The colonists make written agreements not to leave the plantation before the passage money they may owe is repaid ; after this they may settle on lands of their own, if they choose ; but the majority of these men, who in their own countries never looked forward to independence, prefer, after they have become independent, moderate but safe profit to establishments of their own, and remain on the planta tions. The labor on coffee plantations, after the ground is cleared and the trees have been set out, is very light and can be performed by children. The climate of those regions is salubri ous and mild. The coffee berry, when ripe, is cured in the West Indies and South America by a process called pulping and washing. I shall give a description of the process as prac ticed in the West Indies — -differing, in no respects, from the procedure in Brazil. I make the extract from the Report of the Commissioner of Patents for the year 1858 : " On the first establishment of coffee plantations in the West Indies, the trees were allowed to grow up in their primitive state ; that is, the young seedling was planted in the usual man- mer, and kept clear of weeds; but uo means were taken to ascertain whether science could be applied to its cultivation, so as to render the shrub more fruitful and profitable. It was therefore pjermitted to grow to the hight of ten feet and up wards, so far as the richness of the soil would allow it to extend. Fields were not unfrequently seen in which Nature had thus taken her own course, and where the trees threw up suckers to CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 29 a hight of nearly twelve feet. These suckers in favorable seasons bore prodigiously, but after they were relieved of their fruit they died away and gave place to a new vegetation of the sanie description. Among the French refugees, who went from Haiti to Jamaica at the time of the revolution of that ill-fated country, this system of culture prevailed ; but they were induced to alter that course of management, and to resort to the use of the pruning-knife. " The land best adapted to the cultivation of coffee in Jamaica is the loose, gravelly or stony, and the chocolate soils ; but the tree sustains life and yields fruit, though not to a great extent, in other soils. Tbe rich, black mold is peculiarly favorable to this shrub, and will produce it like other fruit trees in perfection in a seasonable climate. Although fields have been established on rich soils, where an immense foliage was thrown out, and always appeared green and beautiful, yet they proved fruitless. A clayey soil favors dampness in wet weather, whilst it becomes dry and sterile at the opposite change, and stops vegetation in the tree. It is not unfrequently mixed with a stratum of marl, to which, as soon as the roots of the tree arrive, decay is induced ; the first indication observed being a yellowness of the leaves, that soon shrivel, and at length drop off, when nature yields and life becomes extinct. "In virgin lands, after the usual preparation of felling and clearing away the wood, the coffee plant is managed in tbe following manner : The field is lined off into rows and cross-rows from six to seven feet apart each way, as the richness of the soil and the prospects of the climate may warrant. At the intersec tion of the lines pegs are inserted to denote the points assigned for the reception of the plants ; and the persons engaged in putting in the young suckers, these being preferred to seedlings, follow with spades, and as the pegs are removed, holes are dug about 18 inches deep into which the plants are inserted, when the earth is gently filled in about them, leaving from six to eight inches exposed above the surface. Formerly, it was customary to raise nurseries by planting the berries at the period of their maturity, whence a regular supply of plants could be obtained for laying out new fields ; but this method has fallen into disuse in consequence of the quantity of young trees to be found growing spontaneously on abandoned lands of plantations, pro duced by seeds taken from cultivated fields by rats and birds. The suckers are drawn, and, after their roots are trimmed off', cut into lengths of about two feet. Good stout stumps are generally preferred, as they vegetate with greater vigor. A small eye is the first indication of vegetation which attracts notice; then a bud, a couple of leaves, and joints and leaves 30 BRAZIL: ITS INHABITANTS, follow in nature's course. The young tree throws out its lateral branches at each joint, which process is continued in regular succession till the tree arrives at the hight of four and a half feet. It is at this period when science is first called into action by 'topping,' which is performed by cutting off the upper branches with a knife, so as to reduce the tree to a hight of four feet. This operation has a wonderful effect on vegetation ; the branches in their turn begin to throw out buds, which, in time, become the limbs termed 'collaterals,' and in the course of eighteen months the tree will have attained its full bearing point, presenting a spectacle of amazing beauty as well as of order, and exhibiting a remarkable pea-green hue. Tbe most difficult, and yet important, portion of plantation management consists in the attention required to keep the fields regularly and properly pruned. There can be no specific rules laid down, however, for tbe guidance of the uninitiated in tbe art of pruning. General directions might be given,. but they are so liable to be interfered with in their application by constant changes in the climate and seasons as to render their intent unavailable. It may be suffi cient to say that the tree throws out lateral branches in the first state of its vegetation which are called ' primaries.' Should these be cut off, or broken from the stem by accident, their place can never be supplied by a growth of the same kind, ' suckers ' and 'gormandizers' following. The latter cognomen is applied in consequence of its sucking voraciously all aliment from the tree. It resembles a sucker, with this difference, that the sucker springs in an upright direction from the joints, while the gor mandizer shoots out horizontally. Trees suffer much, and soon waste away, when they become addicted to this branch, which arises frequently from the careless and ignorant pruning, by cutting off' primaries, but in old fields they grow naturally from the stock. Whenever the tree can stand such a course, they should be exterminated from their sockets ; but when they have assumed the place of primaries, which have been inadvertently destroyed, it is impossible to change their order ; for so soon as one is removed another is sure to assume its place. In this case it would be as well to allow them to remain and bear, takino- them out after every crop. " All trees require a certain amount of light and respiration to conduce to their vigor and health. With the coffee tree these are in an unusual degree indispensable ; a constant and regular circulation of air should be transmitted through its head and the light should fall upon its trunk. After a severe pruning, the vegetation is rank and stunted. The prudent planter now watches his opportunity, and as soon as he perceives the youno- wood of sufficient growth he directs the opening to be performed CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 31 The heads of the trees are first stripped of their leaves, so as to form a clear space of at least six inches from the original stem, afterwards all those which run transversely ; and as the operator proceeds, he removes everything which appears ' spindly ' and stunted, leaving the rich, healthy 'blackwood' to produce the crop. When fields are kept in good order by light annual prunings, there are always two growths of wood to be seen ; the first in advance and ripe for the crop, and the second shooting out to ripen for the ensuing year. It may have been remarked that the wood of this tree is of a greenish color, and rather soft, when young ; but as it matures, it assumes a brownish and hardy appearance. In topping new fields, these signs must be strictly attended to; and the trees should not be topped till the wood has ripened at the point at which it is intended to be cut. As the trees begin to produce in about three years after planting, and as they generally bear heavily at the time of topping, unless the parent stem be sufficiently mature to sustain the weight of the branches loaded with fruit the unripe portion will break, and both tree and fruit will be destroyed. " The climate, as well as the seasons, vary so materially in this island that the growth of the tree, as well as its cultivation, must necessarily differ accoi'ding to its peculiar locality. In some dis tricts it does not come into full bearing before it is seven years old, whilst in others it fruits in half the time; and the longevity of the tree presents a still more remarkable difference ; in the one, fields have been seen in cultivation upwards of half a cen tury : whilst in the other, fifteen years may be taken as the mean age. Soil certainly does not of itself create this difference, as tbe same indications of favorable molds are observable in each district; but it may rather be attributed to the climate. In the elevated regions where coffee plantations have been established, below the range of the Blue Mountains, the temperature, though cold and bleak, is dry and healthy ; whilst in St. Thomas in the Vale, where the lands lie considerably lower, the atmosphere is warm, though damp, and visited with continuous fogs and rains. The climate of Jamaica, therefore, is so diversified in its char acter that no time can be assigned as the most favorable for pruning. In these altitudes, where the tree vegetates nearly all the year round, pruning may be performed during the whole period. It is evident, however, that there are certain seasons of the year when the sap lies dormant in the tree, and not the slightest circulation is perceptible. If the effect be to obtain a copious and healthy supply of young wood, this season could not be deemed suitable for the purpose ; for fields which have been pruned in November and December have been known to remain in a dormant state, and not to throw out a particle of 32 BRAZIL : ITS INHABITANTS, young wood until the spring of the ensuing year. The months of May, June, July, and August are those in which it has been observed that pruning acts beneficially on the tree m the upper districts; but it has often happened that in a.late crop the fruit has not been removed up to August, consequently the pruning had to be delayed until September and October. " The due cleaning or weeding of coffee fields is equally re quisite to their proper culture as pruning ; but this forms a mere piece of physical labor, neither requiring much skill nor in genuity in its exercise. Some care and consideration, however, should be observed in this portion of management as to who directs its performance. Established fields in dry climate do not need more than two weedings a year, before and after harvesting; but in a wet climate three or four are requisite. The weeds, which are taken out by the hoe, form an excellent manure by heaping them up beside the trees to admit of decomposition, and at the next cleaning the mold thus obtained should be carefully applied to their roots. . " The manuring of old fields, with a view to their improve ment, is an essential part of their cultivation. As guano is found to be a very expensive renovator on this island, and as its pro perties do not prove to be of so durable a nature as is desired, a cheaper and more efficacious fertilizer has been produced on plantations by ordinary means — -such as the pruning of stock, and obtaining their excrement, and saving the fan trash and pulp of the coffee. A combination of the properties of the three manures forms a most effectual amendment to the declining soil — a fact which is evinced in the richness and luxuriance of tbe trees whenever the pulp or trash has been washed about their roots by the rains. " The indications of bearing in a coffee tree are usually mani- ¦ fested by the hanging down of the leaves and the swelling of the joints, whence issue the buds. The blossoms , may have been kept in this state for weeks and even months during dry weather, but so soon as a shower of rain falls the buds shoot with astonish ing rapidity, and in two days after the field will present a mass of snowy whiteness, the fragrance of which is grateful to the senses, and the whole scene imparts to the beholder pleasure and satisfaction. Like other fruit trees, this shrub is acted upon by the seasons, upon which late and early blossoms become contin gent. In the warmer districts the March blossom is most calcu lated upon, although expectations for a crop are not given over before the end of May. In the colder regions blossoming may commence in March or May, which is considered early, but July and August give the strongest and most general flowers, and ¦ even large blossoms occur in September and October, such being CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 33 the peculiar changes brought about by the seasons. Three periods of blooming are usually looked for, although good crops have been made from a single heavy and regular flowering. The blossoms shoot out in bunches similar to those of the Spanish jasmine, but they decay in the course of two days, when the fruit is supposed to be formed upon each ; the blossoms either *^^jingi or in heavy rains falling off the trees. In the colder climates the fields are sometimes seen for months in a continual spitting blossom, and yet no fruit results, as the flowers previous to setting are chilled, and often the young fruit also becomes chilled, turns black and drops. But in warmer climates the fruit rapidly advances, and in the course of the month grows to the size of a small pea, whereas in colder localities two months elapse before it arrives at that stage. While the fruit is young, and until the beans begin to form, it will resist the influence of dry weather ; but after that period it droops and feels much the want of moisture, as if Nature, at that particular juncture, re quired some assistance in her efforts to perfect the fruit. From the time of the appearance of the blossom to the harvesting of the berry seven months may be allotted, although crops have been gathered in favorable seasons from a six month blossom ; yet in the upper mountains the fruit does not mature before the end of eight months. Thus the coffee begins to ripen in warm districts in August, and in cold ones in February, at which period the former crop is finished, whilst in the latter it lasts till August. '' The fruit is harvested when in a blood-red state. The laborers are principally accustomed to collect the crop in baskets; and when the coff'ee is bearing heavily and is at full maturity, a good picker will gather four bushels a day and carry them to the works. The fruit, after being measured, is thrown into a heap in the loft above the pulping machine, to which it is subjected, if not immediately, within twenty-four hours after picking; but it not unfrequently happens that tbe manager is unable to pulp his coffee under two or three days, by which time fermentation takes place, and it becomes impossible, after pulping, to wash off the mucilage then adhering to the outer envelope of the berry, and imparts to the produce a ' red' or ' blanketty' appearance when spread on the platforms. The produce is let into the pulper through a small hole in the floor of the loft, and by means of a grater, forcing the fruit against the chops, the berries are dis lodged from the pulp and fall upon a sieve, which being shaken by the machinery causes the berries to drop into the cistern, whilst the grater catches the pulp, carrying it backward at each revolution of the roller. Any fruit which may have passed through the machine half squeezed, and having only rejected one 34 BRAZIL : ITS INHABITANTS, bean, is returned to the hopper to undergo the process a second time. The pulped coffee is permitted to remain in the cistern for a day and a night, during which it ferments. It is then washed in two or three waters, when all the mucilaginous matter which had risen from the berry by fermentation is washed off, and the beans present a beautiful white appearance. It is next turned out to drain on a platform, so sloped as to throw all the water to the center, where a conduit is placed to carry it off. In an hour or so after the coff'ee is moved to the other platforms for curing, where it is thinly spread out and exposed to the sun, which, if shining strong, in eight or nine hours causes all the moisture to evaporate, and the produce is fit for housing that day. From the time the coffee is first exposed to the sun till the ' silver skin' starts, is a stage during which the produce suffers most injury. At the commencement of the process it is constantly thinned, in order to get rid of the water as early as possible, and after it has been housed the greatest precaution is taken to prevent its heat ing, and for this reason early housing is disapproved of; for if wet weather intervenes, and the coffee cannot be turned out, it will become heated, and remain on the platform for several weeks without the slightest advance in curing ; in this case, unless it be frequently turned while in a wet state, it is sure to vegetate. The berries first swell, then a thin white spire issues from the seam, and on opening the bean the young leaves will actually be seen formed inside, so rapid is the course of germination. Hence, the coffee should not be housed till the silver skin begins to start, when no danger can ensue ; for, if a few wet days should follow, by turning the coffee in the house and exposing it to a current of air, it will keep for weeks. It is at this state that the parchment skin begins to show itself, which at first adheres to the beans, as the heat of the sun starts it from its hold and causes it to separate ; thus, on shaking a handful of the produce it will be heard to rattle, a certain indication that the silver skin has risen from the bean. As before observed, the bean is perfectly white till the silver skin starts, when it begins gradually to assume the dark or what is called the ' half cured' appearance. A day's exposure to a strong sun will then half cure it, and by subsequent exposure the produce takes another stage, gradually losing the half cured and assuming a bluish tint; and when it is properly cured not the sbghtest dark spot will be perceptible in the bean, which should exhibit a horny blue color. When the coffee is perfectly cured — which is generally ascertained by threshing out a few berries, and observing if they have attained this horny blue — it is fit for milling. Here the parchment and silver skin are dis lodged from the berries by means of the friction of a large roller passing over them in a wooden trough, out of which they are CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 35 taken and submitted to the fan or winnowing machine, when the trash is all blown away, and the coffee passing through two or three sieves comes out perfectly clean and partially sized. It is then again sifted in order to assort it into proper sizes, hand- picked, put into bags or tierces, and sent to the store. "A variety of circumstances tend to injure the quality of the coffee, which it is beyond human agency to control. Dry weather, intervening at the particular period when the berry is filling out, subjects it to be stunted and shrivelled ; and strong dry breezes, happening at the same period, will cause an adhesion of the silver skin, not to be overcome by the ordinary process of manufacture and curing. " A manifest preference is given in the leading markets to coffee which has gone through the pulping and washing process ; but, singular as it may appear, the consumers of this beverage, perhaps, are not all aware of the fact that the produce which is cured in the pulp furnishes a stronger decoction than an equal quantity of the same that has undergone the other process. Many are of opinion that the mucilaginous substance which is washed off in pulping is absorbed by the bean when cured on the pulp, and which gives strength to the coffee and enhances its aromatic flavor. On most estates in Jamaica it has been customary to cure the remnants of the crop in this way for domestic use ; and it has been remarked by epicures in the flavor of the decoction, that the article thus cured produced the strongest and best drink." Sugar. The exports of sugar from Brazil were formerly much more extensive than now, but its culture is more and more abandoned for the culture of coffee, owing, in a great measure, to the facility and comparatively small expense attending its pro duction, while the culture of sugar and cotton depends on con tingencies, both temporary and permanent, which must materially affect the quantities annually produced. These contingencies may be briefly stated. The culture of sugar depends as much on the science of the manufacturer as on the capital and labor of the planter. Before it can reach the market of Eio, or of any of the other parts of the empire, it requires a vast expenditure of labor, the most assiduous attention, and an outlay of capital that absorb fully one half, if not more, of the gross yield. Besides, the aboli tion of the slave trade, and the severity with which the present laws of Brazil punish those detected in that traffic, must produce decided effects upon the production of those staples in the culture of which slave labor is indispensable. The amount of sugar pro duced since 1864 in the provinces above home consumption is inconsiderable. Tea. Late experiments with the Chinese tea-plant have led to the most encouraging results. Most of the tea now consumed 36 BRAZIL : ITS INHABITANTS, here is of home growth ; a species of tea indigenous to the country is exported in considerable quantities to the Western coast of South America. In tbe course of years tea will become an important article of exportation. Tapioca, a species of starch or white coarse powder, derived from the roots of a plant. These roots, being peeled, are sub jected to a pressure in a kind of bag made of rushes ; the juice which is forced out by this process being a deadly poison, and employed by the Indians to poison their arrows. But the resi duum, or farinaceous matter remaining after the expulsion of the juice, is perfectly wholesome, and makes excellent bread. Ta pioca, as stated above, is prepared from this residuum, and being nutritious and easy of digestion, is extensively used in the mak ing of puddings. When dressed it is not easily distinguished from sago. Eice is grown, above the consumption, in insignificant quan tities. Part of it is distilled into rum, of which about 4,000 pipes are exported per annum. Indian Corn, or Maize, is a very extensive article of culture, it being the food of the mules and horses in these provinces. It is, however, not used there as an article of food for man. Corn, in some places of the interior may be bought for 15 cents per bushel. As in tbe Amazon valley, it may be planted at any time of the year, but I have not heard that more than two crops are made annually. Wheat can be grown to great advantage on the hill-sides of the higher regions ; but owing to the scarcity of mills, and be cause the culture of tropical productions is more profitable, nearly all flour consumed is exported from the United States. All European vegetables grow most luxuriantly in these prov inces, and the city markets are at all seasons well supplied with peas, beans, asparagus, caulifiower, cabbage and sweet potatoes. The forests supply the very best timber for ship-building, and almost every variety of wood for cabinet work and dyeing pur poses, among the latter Brazilwood and rosewood. Travelers, who have minutely explored the interior, describe no less than 219 varieties, and many of them largely enter into the commer cial resources and domestic wealth of the empire. No country produces such a variety of tropical, and at the same time European fruits. The most important of these is the plantain, or banana. This fruit is not, like most other iruits, used merely as an occasional luxury, but is rather an established article of subsistence. Being long and extensively cultivated, it has diverged into numerous varieties, the fruit of which differs materially in size, flavor and color. That of some is not above two or three inches long, while that of others is not much short CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 37 a foot ; some sorts are sweet and of a flavor not unlike nor in ner to that of a good mellow pear ; but the larger kind are, for the most part, coarse and farinaceous. The latter are either used fresh or dried in the sun, in which latter state they are oc casionally ground into meal and made into bread. The sweeter sorts are frequently pressed and dried, as figs are in Europe; and while they are not inferior to the last mentioned fruit, they are infinitely cheaper. "I doubt," says Baron Humboldt, " whether there be anj'- other plant that produces so great a quantity ot nutritive substance in so small a space. Eight or nine months after the sucker is planted it begins to develop its cluster. The fruit may be gathered in the tenth or eleventh month. When the stalk is cut, there is always found, among the numerous shoots that have taken root, a sprout, which, being two-thirds of the height of the parent plant, bears fruit three months later. Thus a plantation of bananas perpetuates it self, without requiring any care on the part of man, further than to cut the stalks when the fruit has ripened, and to stir the earth gently once or twice a year about the roots. A piece of land of 100 square yards of surface will contain from 30 to 40 plants. During the course of a year this same piece of ground, reckon ing the weight of a cluster from 30 to 40 pounds only, will yield more than 4,000 pounds of nutritive substance. What a difference between this product and that of the cereal grasses in most parts of Europe. The same extent of land planted with wheat would not produce above 30 pounds, and not more than 90 pounds of potatoes. Hence the product of the banana is to that of wheat as 133 to 1, and to that of potatoes as 44 to 1." The Pine Apple attains the size of a man's head, and is, perhaps, the most luscious fruit produced there. Of Oranges there are different species. They are not of that degenerate kind generally sold and peddled out in the United States, but have a rich sweet juice, which, when the fruit is fully ripe, resembles honey more than anything else. The Grape comes to the highest perfection, in the cultivated as well as in the wild state. There are localities in Santo Paulo where the wild grape is extremely abundant. The vines will climb up the forest trees, and running from trunk to trunk, form graceful festoons, and often bend the saplings under the weight of their clusters. I have seen vines nine inches in diameter. These wild grapes, I have no doubt, would make excellent wine, as they have a sweet juice, thin skin, and a small pulp. Out of the great variety of fruit I shall besides mention the fig and the almond. Apples are not grown in the country, but are sometimes im ported from Europe. The Brazilians esteem them as great a rarity as we do the pine apples. 38 BRAZIL : ITS INHABITANTS, The Peach-tree flourishes well, still is its fruit inferior to the North American peach. In a country of so sparse a population, so densely covered with virgin forests, game must be abundant. These provinces have not those extensive grassy plains called " pampas," where hun dred thousands of wild cattle roam undisturbed ; but there abounds in the forests an animal of the deer species, called "an- ta," of the size of a large mule, and which has a very savory meat. The common deer are so frequent that I have killed them two or three miles from the city of Santos. The people of the interior eat monkeys, and esteem the monkey pie a great luxury ; but I suppose an American would hardly make an attempt to conquer his prejudice against the Brazilian diet,- so long as there could be procured plenty of other good meat more familiar to his palate. Yet is there another dish peculiar to Brazil, which the foreigner would consider still more outlandish and disgusting, but to which, upon trial, the greatest epicure could not object. This is furnished by the lagarto, an animal two or three feet long, from 15 to 25 pounds in weight, and of the shape of our common lizard. The meat is of a pure white, well flavored and tender. There are five or six varieties of pheasants, the largest weighing as much as 18 pounds, all excellent game birds. Our turkey is also common. The ostrich is met with in great num bers in the pampas, but strays off, occasionally, to these regions. The bird is eagerly hunted for his valuable feathers. Before I dismiss the subject I must also mention the parrot and the coli- bri, though they be not birds of game. The sea along the coast furnishes an abundance of fish and oysters, and the coves and in lets any amount of crawfish (camaroa). The oysters are smaller than the North American oyster. The Brazilians call the larger fish pescado and the smaller ones peisce. I always preferred the peisce. Of the domestic animals the most useful is the mule. This animal not alone supplies there the want of railroads and wag ons in bringing most of the produce to market, but is more generally used asa saddle animal than the horse. Mules in this country are remarkably large, and are worth from 25 to 150 dollars. There are small bats in Brazil which now and then kill a mule. These bats are smaller than our bats, but may be come formidable by numbers, to cattle, at least. They will, at night, fly in great flocks into the stable, and clinging to the mules' sides and belly like leeches, fill themselves with blood. The mule then is found dead in the morning. In some places it is necessary to spread nets before the stable windows to prevent the ingress of these disgusting animals. They never become fatal to men. In regard to the vampirebat, which is said to kill CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 39 men, and about which I have often been questioned, I can only say I never saw any of them. No fine horses are raised in Brazil. Some fine animals are imported from the Cape of Good Hope and other parts. The dog, I am sure, loses many of his good qualities. We im ported several fine Newfoundland dogs, but discovered after we had kept them a year or so, that they became more and more worthless. The cow is much the same size as in other countries. How much milk they give in relation to our cows I cannot say, but to judge by the fine pastures, the yield must be considerable; still all the butter consumed in the country is imported from Portugal and England. Butter is subject to an importation tax of 13c. per pound, and is retailed at from 60c. to 75c. per pound in Rio de Janeiro. It is often so rancid that I was fain to substitute cheese for it. A sufficient supply of fresh butter, and there is no reason why any amount of good butter could not be made in Brazil, must inevitably drive the imported butter out of the market. Beef of good quality is sold in the cities at from 3c. to 6c. per pound. Turkeys and chickens are raised in great numbers ; they form an important item of Brazilian diet. Of snakes, bugs, insects, etc., the country also furnishes its share. Poisonous snakes I never saw ; ihere are, however, several varieties. The largest snake I ever met with there, was a black snake, about 15 feet long, but perfectly harmless. A real plague of the country is the barata, a species of cockroach. They are very destructive to the timber of houses, and where the houses are old and neglected they will soon reduce the posts and rafters to mere shells, eating all the wood inside. Bushels of this bug might be collected out of such old houses. Phosphorus, when soon enough employed, will cause them to desert their haunts, and put a stop to their depredations. There are also mosquitoes and sandflies, but they are confined to the coast, and are only troublesome during two or three months of the year. The yellow fever visits, every two or three years, the cities on the sea coast, when it makes considerable havoc among the whites and blacks. It, however, never spreads over the first mountain rano-es, 15 miles from the coast. Several years ago, when the Asiastic cholera visited Europe and America, Brazil was also made tributary to this terrible epidemic. It raged, however, more particularlv among the slaves, of whom many thousands were swept away in an incredible short time. Since then^ no more symptoms of that disease have shown themselves. The interior of the two provinces is extremely healthy. The country doctors are few and far between, and these few have little em- 40 brazil: its inhabitants, ployment. In the rare cases of sickness there is always some old woman near, who, with the aid of herbs and roots, considers herself equal to the emergency. If all fail — roots, herbs and old women — they resort to crosses and holy water ; and if they also prove unavailing, it is manifest that God wills the patient should die. Even in the cities the more ignorant people will cause the priests to make crosses over their doors, to keep the yellow fever out of their houses. I have known several ex tremely old people in the country, among others a lady 130 years old, and who had married at the age of twelve. As the diet and the habits of living of the Brazilians are by no means conducive to longevity, it must be produced by the salubrious climate. The principal beverage is coffee, which by some process I am unacquainted with, is made almost as thick as syrup. Of this quaint essence of coffee, as it may be called, one fourth is added to three parts of boiling cream, and when this is well sugared you have a rich beverage, that will certainly gratify your palate. When I partook of it for the first time, I believed it to be some delicious drink peculiar to the country, and unknown to me ; and I always liked it so much aa to drink it at all times of the day. The inordinate use of coffee made me so nervous that I often could not wield the pen. In the public coffee houses coffee is taken in very small cups, without cream, and well sugared; in which state the beverage suits my taste but little. In spite of the warm climate, port wine and otber heavy wines are preferred to claret, aud the quantities consumed of the former much ex ceeds that of the latter. This arises from the fact that so long as Brazil belonged to Portugal, only heavy Portuguese wines were introduced into the country, and now, although the Brazilians can buy where they choose, long habit has formed their tastes. Wine is not manufactured in the country. Some of the fruits furnish good drink, among others the orange. Porter and ale are imported from England, but suffer by the passage over tropical seas ; a much cheaper and better article of beer can be had at the German brewery of Eio de Janeiro. Eice and sugar are manufacturered into excellent rum, of which Eio exports about 4,000 pipes annually, and corn gives them whisky, called there cachasso, aud almost exclusively used by the negroes. Drunkenness is not a vice of this country. I never saw a Brazilian drunk in the streets. The meal hours in Brazil are not the same as ours. At sun rise the servants will bring to your bed, on a tray, a bowl of chocolate, coffee with cream, or some dish made of milk, eggs, sugar and spices. This refreshment the Brazilian takes in bed, perhaps an hour before he dresses. The breakfast is served up climate .A.ND PRODUCTIONS. 41 at ten o'clock A.M., and dinner at four o'clock P.M. ; and at eight o'clock P.M. tea is taken, with perhaps a slice of cake. In the cities the table is well supplied with fish, oysters, and craw fish, besides beef and fowl. Rice is a never-failing dish on the dinner as well as breakfast table. Only the best brands of American flour will satisfy the Brazilian. The city people do not bake their own bread, but procure their day supply of bread from the baker. Emigrants who do not bring with them a sup ply of provisions of their own must in the beginning, and before they are arranged in their homes, content themselves with pro visions they little fancy. An Irishman, to whom carne secca (jerked beef) and farina (mandioca meal) was served out, com plained that the wretches intended to feed him on sole-leather and sawdust. This mandioca meal resembles, indeed, sawdust very much ; and although a dish which is never wanting on the tables of the rich and poor, I never learned to like it. Other cheap provisions are beans and pork. On this diet, well known in this country, I need not enlarge. CHAPTER IV. Eio DE Janeiro,* the capital of Brazil, on the Atlantic, in lat. 22 deg. 54 min. 15 sec. S., long. 43 deg. 15 min. 50 sec. W. Population 200,000. The harbor of Rio is one of the finest in the world, both as respects capaciousness and security for all sorts of vessels. In coming from the northeast it is usual to make Cape Frio, in lat. 23 deg. 1 min. 18 sec. S., long. 42 deg. 3 min. 19 sec. W., being about four leagues east of Rio. _ The entrance to the harbor is marked by a remarkable hill in the form o'f a sugar-loaf, nine hundred feet high, close to its west side ; while on the east or opposite side of the bay, at the dis tance of about one and a half miles, is the fort of Santa Cruz. Harbor.— Vessels bound for Eio, coming from the north, should, after rounding Cape Frio, steer due west, keeping about three leagues from the coast, until they come withm five or six miles of the Ilha Rasa, or flat island, lying almost due south from the mouth of the harbor at the distance of about three leagues A lighthouse, the lantern of which is said to be elevated nearly three hundred feet above the level of the sea, was erected on this island in 1829. The light is a revolvmg one, finishing its revolution in three minutes, and exhibiting alter- * The statistics and observations on the commerce of Rio de Janeiro contained in this chapter are taken from Hornan's Cyclopedia of Commerce, published in 1859. 42 BRAZIL : ITS inhabitants, nately a red and white light. There is also a lighthouse in the fort of Santa Cruz, the light of which is fixed, and elevated about fifty feet above the level of the sea. Having got within five or six miles of the Ilha Rasa, ships may enter l3y day or by night. There are no pilots to be met with ; and as there are no hidden dangers of any kind, their services are not wanted. On entering, vessels must pass within hail of Fort Santa Cruz, to be ready to answer any questions that may be put to them. They then proceed to Fort Vilganhon, below or opposite to which they must bring to, or come to anchor, allowing no boats to come alongside but those of the Government until they have received pratique, when they will be permitted to proceed to the usual place of anchorage for the merchant shipping. The sea-breeze generally sets in about 11 A.M., and lasts till about sunset. It is strong enough to enable ships to overcome the ebb high water at full, and changes at two in the afternoon. Anchorage Dues. — 1. From and after 1st July, 1852, the anchorage duty upon vessels trading between foreign ports and the ports of Brazil will be reduced to 300 reis the ton, and the same class of duty now levied upon coasting vessels shall be abolished. 2. That part of the provisions of April 26, July 20, and November 15, 1844, which has not been altered by this decree will continue in force. Trade. — The trade of Rio is extensive, and has increased rapidly of late years. It is now by far the greatest mart for the export of coff'ee. The shipments of this important article, which in 1830 amounted to 396,785 bags, have increased with such unexampled rapidity that in 1848 they amounted to 1,710,707 bags — that is (taking the bag at 160 lbs.), to 273,713,120 pounds, or 122,193 tons ; being about equal to all the exports of coffee from all the other ports in the world. It has not, however, been so large since. Sugar was formerly an important article of export from Rio, but latterly it has rapidly decreased, and only amounted to 5,979 fcases (13 cwt. each) in 184 S. It is probable, however, that here, as in Cuba and other places, the late low prices of coffee may have produced a reaction in favor of sugar, the exports of the latter having risen in 1850 to 13,047 cases. The other great articles of export from Rio are hides, rice, tobacco, rum, tapioca, ipecachuanha, manioc or manihot, flour, and other articles. Tbe export of cotton has entirely ceased ; and that of gold, diamonds, &c., is nearly clandestine. Diamonds are principally exported from Bahia. climate and productions. 43 Accounts of the Exports of Native Produce from Eio DE Janeiro dueing each of the Six Years ending WITH 1852: Years. Coffee. Sugar. Hides. Horns. Rosewood, Leather. Rice. Rum. Bag<. Cases. No. No. Logs i Planks. Sides. Bags. Pipes. 1847 1,339,234 8,426 367,238 450,783 9,437 5,562 16,741 3,933 1848 1,710,599 5,713 331,583 269,191 16,364 10,254 9,713 2,863 1849 1,460,410 5,865 301,983 378,707 23,257 10,746 20,707 4,380 1850 1,359,058 13,047 200,033 368,560 26,382 17,617 24,242 8,216 1851 1,846,398 7,824 147,296 256,949 86,547 13,774 8,229 8,892 1853 1,907,130 12,516 125,739 176,098 25,369 3,955 8,449 1,953 The principle article of import consists of cotton goods, the value of which amounts to full one-third of the total value of the imports. Next to cottons are woolen, linen, and silk manu factures ; wines, jewelry, and ironmongery ; flour, meat, fish, butter, and other articles of provisions ; spirits, salt, earthenware, paper, and a host of other articles. The importation of ready- made furniture from the United States is also extensive. About fifty per cent, of the entire commerce of Brazil passes through the port of Rio de Janeiro. Hither is conveyed from all ports on the coast — -from Bahia almost to the frontiers of the Argentine Republic — all the produce intended for exportation or home consumption. Farina, beans, bacon, dried and salt meat, hides, horns, tallow, rice, tobacco, sugar, coffee, cotton — in a word, all the produce and manufactures of the different pro vinces are made tributary, either by land or water conveyance, to the wealth and commercial greatness of the Brazilian metro polis. A numerous fleet of vessels is employed in the coasting trade, in supplying the different ports along the coast with the various productions of the soil and industry of America and Europe. The chief foreign exports from Eio de Janeiro are coffee (more than half of the whole going to the United States), sugar, cotton, hides, tobacco, otter skins, etc. Tonnage employed in the trade of 1841 : Total vessels, 1,705, of 416,000 tons— of which, from and to the United States there were 289 vessels, of 77,000 tons. Tonnage, etc., of 1841, compared with that of 1840 : 1841 1,705 vessels 416,000 tonnage. 1840 ... 1,640 " .... 399,200 Excess over 1840 ... 65 " .... 16,800 " 44 brazil: its inhabitants. The leading articles imported in 1851 were as follows : Cot tons, 42,560; woolens, 5,488 ; linens, 5,695 ; silks, 1,088; and mixed goods, 1,263 packages ; codfish, 54,602 quintals ; coal, 42,007 tons; ale and porter, 23,704 barrels; flour, 283,893 barrels; candles, sperm 90, composition 6,052, and tallow 25,561 boxes; wines, Portugal 14,033, Mediterranean 7,644, and Bor deaux 4,421 pipes ; butter, 25,561 firkins ; cordage, 3,480 coils, etc. The produce of the country exported in the same year consisted of: Coffee, 2,033,743 bags; hides, 147,296; sugar, 7,824 cases ; rum, 3,892 pipes ; rice, 8,229 bags ; horns, 256,949 ; tobacco, 28,755 rolls (of 96 lbs. each) ; rosewood, 36,547 pieces ; half-tanned hides, 12,744; tapioca, 17,737 barrels, etc. The arrivals coastwise in 1851 were 1,935 sail vessels, and 359 steamers, with an aggregate of 221,647 tons ; and the departures were 1,863 sail vessels, and 380 steamers, with an aggregate of 226,002 tons. The total imports and exports of the empire in 1851 exhibit an increase of 33 per cent, over the average of the four preceding years. Could Brazil be induced to abolish the heavy export duties which she levies on her staple productions, the increase would largely exceed this figure. The article of coffee alone would in a short period fully make up for any deficiency in her revenue, caused by the abolition of these duties, in the increased demand for that article for foreign markets. Besides, the stimulus which would in consequence be imparted to that branch of agricultural labor would present an incidental benefit, which could hardly escape the observation of a sagacious legislator. Statements Illustrative of the Trade op Rio in 1850. LEADING AKTICLK8 IMPORTED. Quantities . Quantities Cotton Manufactures, pkgs., . 36,134 Candles, Sperm, boxes, . 1,872 Woolen " " . 2,958 " Composition, boxes, 5,369 Linen " " . 1,170 Tallow, . " . 2,222 Silk " . 770 Wines, Portugal, pipes . 14,525 Mixed " " . 1,141 " Mediterranean, pipes, 6,761 Codfish, quintals, . . 35,050 " Bordeaux, " . 2,483 Coal, tons, . . 33,404 Butter, firkins. . 38,980 Ale and Porter, bbls. . 15,961 Cordage, coils. . 10,670 Flour, bbls.. 205,578 EXPORTS OF PHODU :e of the countet. Quantities. Quantities. Coffee, bags. . 1,859,058 Other woods, deals. . 15,186 Hides, . 200,033 Half-tanned Hides, . 17,617 Sugar, cases. . 13,047 Tapioca, lbs.. . 16,053 Rum, pipes. 3,216 Tea, boxes, . 34 CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 45 EXPORTS Rice, bags. Horns, . \ Tobacco, rolls, . Ipecacuanha, seroons, Rosewood, pieces, . OF PRODUCE.— (continued.) Quantities. 24,242 268,550 28,440 127 26,333 Cigars, Hair (Horse), bales, Flour (Manihot), bags. Soap, boxes. Candles, Tallow, boxes, 656 857 10,673 . 3,565 304 ^Tr ii2r.o°wirs""i?°" ^'° ^' ^"™;"- -^ >- Tears. Bags. 1821 105,886 1822 152,048 1823 184,994 -1824 234,000 1825 182,510 1826 260,000 1837 850,900 1828 369,147 1839 375,107 1830 391,785 lusive, in bags of 160 lbs. : Tears. Bags. 1831 448,249 1833 478,950 1833 563,195 1884 339,117 1835 637,165 1836 704,385 1887 629,734 1838 781,651 1889 871,785 1840 1,068,801 Tears. Bags. 1841 1,613,915 1842 1,179,731 1843 1,189,525 1844... . 1,660,431 1845 1,208,063 1846 1,511,069 1847 1,639,334 1848 1,710,579 1849.... 1,460,410 1850 1,359,058 Comparative statement showing the inward navigation of Eio de Janeiro in the years 1851 and 1852 : Foreign Flags. Vessels. Foreign Flags. Vessels. 1851. 1852. 1851. 1852. United States, . 300 255 Belgium, . 30 30 Great Britain, . 213 228 Austria, . 34 25 Portugal, . 104 90 Holland, . 11 17 Hanse Towns, . 90 73 Prussia, .. 16 16 Sweden and Norway, . 114 73 Kussia, . 20 11 France, . 78 68 Other countries. . 46 90 Denmark, . 72 67 Spain, 30 14 Total, . 1,210 1,099 Sardinia, 48 44 The total value of the commercial movements at the port of Rio de Janeiro in 1852 was 353,000,000 francs — equal to $67,070,000; showing a large increase over the trade of the preceding year. Of the above total, there was for imports 180,000,000 francs, and for exports 173,000,000 francs. The following condensed summary shows the trades of the principal commercial countries with Rio during this year. Great Britain and possessions, 74,000,000 francs. Imports con sisted chiefly of cottons, woolens, provisions, hardware, coal, etc. France 34,000,000 francs. Imports— liquors, tissues, cutlery, articles of fashion, etc. United States, 23,000,000 francs. Im ports— provisions, etc. Portugal, 14,500,000 francs. Imports— P° ' . provision;, etc. Iltnse Towns, 11,000,000 trancs. £" j;,ts_general cargoes. Buenos Ayres aud Montevideo, 46 brazil: its INHABITANTS, 5,000,000 francs. Imports — provisions, skins, etc. The exports of Eio de Janeiro this year were in value : Colfee,Diamonds and Pearls, Sugar, Tobacco and Cigars, Hides and Skins, Cabinet Woods, 140,000,000 francs. 15,000,000 " 5,000,000 " 3,500,000 '= 2,500,000 " 1,800,000 " According to the official report of the Custom-house of Rio de Janeiro, there was exported from that port to the United States, up to the 30th of June of the year 1852, 952,489 bags of coffee, of 160 pounds each. The total quantity of coffee ex ported the same year is stated to have been 1,896,609 bags. The quantity sent to the United States was thus distributed : New Orleans, New York, Baltimore, Philadelphia, Charleston, Boston, Mobile, Savannah, San Francisco, Total, 346,262 bags. 260,179 " 207,792 " 81,125 " 25,733 " 11,758 " 11,261 " 4,369 " 4,011 " 953,489 The following statement shows how the navigation of Rio de Janeiro wfc distributed in 1853 and 1854 : — Nationality. United States, England, . Portugal,Prance, Hanse Towns, Spain, Sweden and Norway, Montevideo, Buenos Ayres, Belgium, Denmark, Sardinia, For many years the United States occupied the first rank in the navigation of Rio de Janeiro. It will be perceived from the preceding table that England claims the precedence in 1854, a fact which is attributed to the falling ofi' in that year in the im portation of flour from the United States. The new line of ^ninber of Vessels 1853. 1854. 379 231 . 364 360 123 133 . 54 63 72 63 . 43 64 72 44 . 22 87 18 43 . 36 33 61 83 . 12 10 climate and productions. 47 steamers, established in 1853, between Liverpool and Rio de Janeiro, touching at the same places as the Southampton line, — namely, Lisbon, Madeira, Teneriffe, St. Vincent, Pernambuco, and Bahia — notwithstanding the fears as to its success, continued in 1854 its monthly service with activity and profit. Besides these two lines of steamers, a company, composed of Brazilian and Portuguese merchants, has established a line between Lisbon and Rio, touching at the same points. But this line had in 1854 but one steamer in service, the voyages of which, however, proved very successful. The port of Rio de Janeiro is becoming yearly more important as the center of South Atlantic commerce. The number and ton nage of vessels which entered in 1855 were augmented a third when compared with 1845, and more than a half over the number and tonnage of vessels in 1835. From 1850 to 1854 the average increase during the five years was nearl}^ a fifth. The following statement exhibits the progressive movement: Tears ' ' , : 1 'a Vessels. Tons. 1835, . . . ¦ ¦ -¦ ' 572 134,913 1845, 878 158,940 1,385 380,873 1855, These figures exhibit the results of foreign navigation only. The coasting trade is shown as follows : ^essels. Tons. 1,930 115,117 3,603 1168,872 3,068 318,290 Tears. 1835, . . . • 1845, . . . • 1855, . . • • The employment of steamboats in the navigation of Rio de Janeiro is yearly extending. In 1845 the number ot steam^ boats engaged in the trade of the port of Rio was239._ In 1855 the number reached 431. Fourteen companies, owning thirty- nine steamboats, with an aggregate of 2,428 horse-po%ver, keep up the communication between Rio de Janeiro and the other maritime towns of the empire. There are also four towboats with an aggregate of 187 horse-power. _ The followmg tabulai statement exhibits the value of leading importations into Rio de Janeiro in 1854: I. — MEECHA2