' '/ give theft Book for pie founding of ti. College iHiihajEolo/iy;, From the estate ol Mrs. Virginia H. Curtis PRICE MAY 2%J9J$ S. A COMPLETE GUIDE WHITE MOUNTAINS And Other New Hampshire Scenery, WITH A CHAPTER ON MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. ESTABLISHED 1844. FACTURI C Successors to JDKJV XTfiOX & CO.) 19 Milk Street, Boston. Manufacturers of Dennison's Tags, Tourists' Tags, for Travelers, Gum Labels, Targets for Rifle Practice, Absorbent Coin, Jewelers' and Druggists' Paper Boxes, etc. for s^Xje: :by x>E3^Xj:Esn.s. ESTABLISHE;D 1845. George H. Morrill & Co. MANUFACTURERS OF Printing and Lithographic Inks, SIZES, BRONZES AND VARNISHES. WORKS: OFFICE: Norwood, Mass. 30 Hawley St., Boston. "IPC S*9ti?etl«m& of lUneriea." A COMPLETE GUIDE BOOK Scenery of New Hampshire, DESCRIBING fountains, flakes, fivers, and jieacoast, AND ADD THE ROUTES OF TRAVEL BY WHICH THEY ARE REACHED, TO WHICH 18 APPENDED A CHAPTER ON MONTREAL ANDIQUEBEC. REVISED EDITION. BY WILLIAM C. GAGE. MANCHESTER : THOMAS W. LANE, PUBLISHER. New Yokk : American News Company. 1878. TfeuerKXV "•V-s^c te 111 V<>v " / % H. \ll J"€ y/ "* f? "ll'M ^MPitseajland o)[ j^mqrira." °&i° INTRODUCTION. HIS work has been undertaken with a view to meet what is believed to be an existing want. Within the past twenty-five years several excellent White Mountain Guide Books have been published, describing with more or less vividness the at tractions and beauties of New Hampshire's glorious hills. Some of these works have out lived their usefulness as books of reference, while others, by reason of their literary merit, have taken their place among the standard works of the day. With the latter of these this work makes no pretense to vie, either in point of descriptive ability or literary worth. Its field of useful ness, if any it shall prove to have, will be in the presentation to those in search of the beautiful among the hills, valleys, and lakes of the Granite State, of the most convenient and expeditious meth ods of reaching the places made attractive by the beauty of their scenery and the facilities they afford the seekers of health and pleasure. The cordial reception given by the traveling public to the first edition of this work has induced the author to prepare a second,. which is herewith presented as an improvement over the former, and is believed to be complete and in all respects thoroughly reliable. 4 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. The contrast between the past and the present in methods of locomotion is nowhere more marked than among the mountain scenery of New Hampshire. A few years ago the lumbering stage coach or the weary horseback ride made mountain travel a work of no little fatigue, often coupled with absolute danger. This, in a great measure, has become a thing of the past. The shriek of the iron horse now re-echoes among the very peaks of the granite hills, and the traveler, taking his breakfast at the "Hub," may regale himself with a late supper on the topmost peak of the White Mountain range, in the evening of the same day, the entire distance between being traversed by the aid of the locomotive. While it may be questioned whether these changes have not robbed a mountain journey of much of its attractiveness by depriv ing it of many of its romantic features, it is nevertheless true that many are thus enabled to visit localities to them hitherto inaccessi ble by reason of the hardships of the journey. And to those who desire to give zest to their appreciation of the beauties of Nature by approaching her in her roughest moods, there remains even now enough of pedestrianism and equestrianism in passing from one locality to another among the hills, to satisfy the strongest cravings in that direction. The practice of viewing objects of interest through the medium of the guide book is like looking through colored spectacles, and many a traveler has been disappointed that the object of admira tion faile'd to come up to the enthusiastic description of the guide book, simply because he viewed it in a different mood from that in which the author wrote. " Mark Twain " happily hits off this subject in his " Innocents Abroad " ; and while his treatment of the subject is a laughable caricature its underlying truth is worthy of the attention of all tourists, foreign or American. The object of a guide book is not so much to furnish eyes for the beholder, as to aid his vision in discovering the objects to be admired. Hence those works which are so largely descriptive find their best use in entertaining those who cannot visit the places they describe, or in awakening pleasant reminiscences in the minds of those who have seen them. This work, therefore, will seek to deal in useful details, many of which are incident to recent changes in railroad facilities, which seem to render such a publication a necessity. And while its state ments will be brief and concise, it is believed that they will be sufficiently explicit and comprehensive to meet the wants of tourists to all the principal points of interest in the scenery of New Hamp shire. SUMMER TRAVEL. I HE high-pressure principle upon which the business of our country is conducted finds a safety-valve in summer travel. The merchant leaves his counting-room, the law yer his musty library, the minister his wearying study, for a few days of weeks, perhaps months, at som» watering-place or mountain home, and enjoys for the time a relaxation from wear and tear, which saves him from a break-down. However short may be the time of his stay, the results are measurably good, and the calamity of broken health is for the time averted. Summer tourists may be divided into two classes : Those who are forever on the move, in " seeing the sights," and those who go to rest and recuperate. The former class comprises those who " do" the mountains, the falls, the lakes, or the sea-shore, perhaps at the behest of fashion, with comparatively little of real benefit, able only to say that they have seen this or that object of interest, but wholly uhconscious of its hidden beauties and enjoyable features, which come in response to earliest study or continued observation. Of the latter class, many can hardly be called tourists at all, in the common acceptation of that term. Finding some desirable place for summer sojourning, they quietly take possession for the season, varying the monotony of country life by excursions to adja cent places, by fishing and hunting, and by resting ; a business for which the permanent residents of the country find little time or op portunity until- after the departure of their city guests. For both these classes of travelers New Hampshire furnishes an ample fie,ld. Her quiet rural resorts, rich in opportunities of enjoy ment, are to be found on every hillside, in every valley, by the shores of her numerous lakes, and on the banks of her murmuring streams. Year by year the beauties of these resorts are becoming better known and more generally appreciated, and the annual tide of summer travel grows larger in consequence. The most celebrated of all the scenery of New Hampshire is that of the White Mountains, and with the single exception of the Falls b THE SWITZERLAND OP AMERICA. of Niagara, no resort has annually so many visitors. From all parts of the United States, from the British Provinces, from across the broad Atlantic, even from the islands on the sea, the lovers of ro mantic scenery come to admire the rugged peaks uplifted to heaven, the smiling valleys, the winding streams, the glassy lakes and the dashing cascades, which have given the state the appropriate title of " The Switzerland of America." Experienced tourists may need no particular instruction before setting out, but a word of caution may not come amiss to all. The cool nights, and oftentimes cool days, at summer resorts, necessitate a supply of over-garments to guard against taking cold. The gen tlemen should take overcoats, stout boots, and if fishing and hunt ing are expected to be indulged in, waterproof coats or capes. The ladies should remember the waterproofs, the rubber overshoes, or better still, rubber boots, and if mountain climbing is embraced in the tour, a stout pair of calfskin shoes. For free pedestrianism, nothing equals the " short dress," with Turkish pants, or high boots. A railway guide will be found useful, as changes in time may dis appoint you in making connections unless the route is studied. For New England, " The Pathfinder," published monthly, at Boston, is the best and most complete. ROUTES FROM NEW YORK. VERY large proportion of the visitors to New Hampshire come from New York city. Residents of the Middle, Southern and Western states make that their starting point, and the city itself contributes no small number of tourists. For the benefit of such we give a brief description of some of the many lines by which they may reach the state with com fort and facility. The most natural and most generally traveled routes are those which lead to and through Boston, although a visit to that city is by no means a necessity. To those who choose to combine boat and rail, the Sound steamer lines present many attractions. Of these there are several, all presenting their respective claims to the public, and each having merits peculiar to itself. Comparisons, therefore, would be invidi ous, and we will give in these pages a brief description of each route, and leave the reader to make his choice. PROVIDENCE LINE. Boat to Providence, R. I., and rail to Boslpn via Boston & Provi dence railroad. One of the elegant side-wheel steamers, Rhode Island, or Massachusetts, leaves Pier 29, North, or Hudson river, every evening at 5 o'clock, Sundays excepted. From that hour until darkness sets in, the scene presented to the eye of the tourist is a changing panorama of matchless novelty and beauty. The boat steams down the river, the waters of which are alive with craft of every description, and enters the bay, from which it makes its way to the East river, rounding the lower extremity of Manhattan Island, past the Battery, Castle Garden, and other points of inter est. Passing up the river, between the shores of New York and Brooklyn, the attention of the tourist is occupied with the bustling and animated scenes on either side and in the channel. The im mense towers of solid masonry, from which is being suspended the great bridge between the two cities, loom up on either bank of the river. Ferry-boats gliding across, ships setting out to sea, steamers 8 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. passing alongside, all present a scene of restless activity, and fur nish a striking illustration of the characteristics of the American people. Gliding past the islands, on which are located the various reform atory and beneficent institutions of the adjacent cities, across the lines of the numerous ferries, we soon arrive at the famous passage known as " Hell Gate," six miles from New York. During the ebb and flow of the tide an immense body of water is forced through this channel in a rapid and tumultuous current, boiling and seeth ing among the rocks, to the great peril of inexperienced or reckless sailors. The dangers of this passage have recently been greatly lessened by submarine blasting, by which the sunken rocks have been removed and the channel rendered comparatively safe. En tering the waters of Long Island Sound at Throgg's Point, thirteen miles from New York, the boat continues on its course, while the passengers retire to the cabins or state-rooms, or remain on deck to enjoy the evening twilight, or promenade in the spacious saloons, at their own pleasure. A sumptuous supper is served on board to such as wish, under the direction of efficient stewards and obliging waiters, after which the passengers retire to their berths or state rooms, or enjoy the waking hours in the contemplation of the waters by moonlight or starlight, and in watching the shifting lights which mark the channel to the sleepless eye of the vigilant pilot. In the early morning the boat enters Narragansett bay, and the early riser may get a view of the scenery of Mount Hope and the . picturesque bay, while the steamer wends her way to the landing, at Providence. From Providence the tourist may take the cars of the Boston) & Providence road, reaching Boston in season to connect with' the mountain expresses from the Lowell, Eastern, or Boston & Maine depots, by the various routes hereafter described. Or, taking; the cars of the Providence & Worcester railway, connection may be made at Worcester with the mountain expresses from that city. Captain D. S. Babcock is the president of the Providence line, and L. W. Filkins the efficient passenger agent, under whose supervision the route has obtained a deserved popularity. STONINGTON LINE. This popular route, under the same management as the Provi^ dence line, has long been a popular thoroughfare between the two great Atlantic cities, and presents the claims of reliability and safety, as attested by its immunity from accident for many years. Its boat trip is shorter and the rail portion longer than are those of the Providence line, a desirable feature to those whose confi dence in terra firma is greater than in the " briny deep." ROUTES FROM NEW YORK. FALL RIVER LINE. The magnificent floating palaces of this line, Bristol and Provi dence, leave pier 28, foot of Murray street, North river, and pur suing the course already described, traverse the entire length of the Sound, and give the tourist an opportunity for a good night's ley*? .~-r-aiai INTERIOR VIEW OF GRAND SALOON. rest, making the first landing at Newport, the celebrated watering- place, a view of which is given herewith. The city is finely situated «on an acclivity facing the water. An abundance of excellent hotels furnish ample accommodation for 10 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. HKSiiHl gM*yt VIEW OF NEWPORT. such as may wish to make here a temporary sojourn. If the pas senger chodses, he may disembark, and view the attractions of the place, or he may continue his journey by the boat to Fall River, where the train for Boston is found in waiting. Refreshed with a good night's sleep, the journey by rail is commenced, and the tourist arrives in Boston in ample season for northern and eastern trains. NORWICH LINE. This popular route is another combination of boat and rail, and presents many advantages to the White Mountain tourist. The steamers of the line are staunch and powerful, and equipped with all the conveniences and appointments by which a boat journey is made enjoyable. The "The City of Boston " and " City of New York" leave Pier 40, North river, at 5 o'clock p. m., on alternate days. The same magnificent scenery presented by the lines previously mentioned is to be seen from the decks of the Norwich boats, which for speed are unsurpassed by any on the Sound. At New London the boats connect with an express train, which runs through to the Mountains without delay, via Norwich, Wor cester, Nashua, Manchester, Concord, and the Boston, Concord, & Montreal Railroad, to Fabyan House station. Or, if the traveler chooses, he may take the train for Boston, arriving there in season for the eastern trains to the Mountains, via North Conway or Port land. ROUTES FROM NEW YORK. 11 BOSTON AND NEW YORK AIR LINE. Several popular all-rail routes from New York present their claims to the traveling public, and of these the new and convenient " Air Line " claims a large share of public favor and patronage. Lyman Viaduct. (Boston & New York Air Line.) WfMm. WMms Rock Cut. ( Boston & New York Air Line.) The road is a part of the popular line between Boston and Phila delphia and the South, running Pullman cars through without change, the entire train being transferred by the steamer Mary land. 12 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. Leaving New York from the Grand Central depot, Forty-second] street, at 11.35 p.m., the tourist can breakfast in Worcester or ([ifWIIilll' hi i n '"""^Hlll'lf-''* < Mo > a •A z. H?J c ot- > WHITE MOUNTAIN EXPRESS. During the season of summer travel a day train of Pullman coaches will be run through from New York city to the Crawford House, without change, leaving the Grand Central depot at 8.05 a. m., and arriving at the Crawford House at 8.30 p. m. The train 14 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. « runs via Springfield, where the passengers dine, thence up the Connecticut valley, stopping at White River Junction for tea, where is located the Junction House, kept by the Barron Brothers, well- known to all mountain tourists as the proprietors of the Crawford and Twin Mountain houses. From this point the train proceeds via the Passumpsic road to Wells River, thence by B. C. & M. R. R. to Fabyan's and by Portland & Ogdensburg road to Crawford House. This is a favorite and popular route for those who wish to make an expeditious trip, and is always well patronized. ROUTES FROM BOSTON. PPORTUNITIES of reaching the mountains are numerous and varied, and for convenience will be classified and let tered, each route being described in detail. This will give the tourist the privilege of selecting his route from among the many, or of combining two or more in going and coming, accord ing to the amount of time at his disposal. ROUTE A. Boston, Lowell & Nashua, Concord, Boston, Concord. & Mon treal, and White Mountains Railroads. Leaving Boston at 8 o'clock a. m., from the magnificent station of the Boston & Lowell Railroad, on Causeway street, the tourist may, if he chooses, take his supper amid the clouds, and sleep under winter coverings, at the highest altitude attainable in New Hampshire without the aid of a balloon. A more leisurely approach to the mountains, however, is more de sirable and less wearying, and if the traveler chooses, he may leave Boston at noon, and spend the night at Plymouth, continuing his journey the qext day. The new passenger station of the Boston & Lowell Railroad is one of the finest in the country, and as a specimen of depot archi tecture, reflects great credit upon the designers. Capacious and airy, with its roof of glass, its ample waiting rooms and other ac commodations for the traveling public, combined with the urbanity and politeness of its officials, it affords a comfortable and conven ient waiting-place for the traveling public. Dra wing-Room Car, "Mount Washington." The drawing-room cars of the White Mountain express leave the Boston & Lowell depot at 8 o'clock, running through to the mountain region without change. These cars are splendidly equipped, provided with all the modern improvements, and for comfort and convenience are unsurpassed. 16 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. On leaving Boston the first object that will strike the attention of the stranger is the memorial shaft, at the right of the track, in Charlestown, which commemorates the battle of Bunker Hill. Fur ther on, at Somerville, the McLean Asylum for the Insane is seen, and at Lowell are visible the immense manufacturing enterprises, encased in brick and stone, employing thousands of people and millions of capital. The waters of the Concord and Merrimack' rivers furnish the power which has made Lowell celebrated as " the city of spindles." Speeding on to Nashua, the train here receives accessions of travelers from the Worcester & Nashua road by the Norwich and the all-rail line from New York. The route from Nashua onward to the capital of the state is over the line of the Concord Railroad Company, one of the most pros perous corporations in the country. As a link in the great trunk line between Boston and the Canadas, its traffic is immense, and, of course, its road is always in splendid condition. Its entire length lies through the valley of the Merrimack, and as the train rolls smoothly on, the tourist has a fine view of the flourishing cities and villages, some of which owe their very existence to the Merrimack river. The president of the road is Hon. Onslow Stearns, and Col. H. E. Chamberlin is the superintendent. Manchester. Reaching Manchester in about two hours from Boston, the cars of the Concord & Portsmouth, and the Manchester & Lawrence roads unite with the train, the latter bringing passengers from Bos ton, via the Boston & Maine road through Lawrence. Manchester is the largest city in the state, and is its commercial metropolis. The manufacture of cotton goods is the chief industry, but woolen goods, locomotives, and steam fire-engines occupy a large share of its industrial enterprise, while various other mechan ical pursuits combine to render the place a busy and thriving city. The water power is immense, and is controlled by the Amoskeag Company, whose- steam fire-engines, and other products, are second to none in the world. In the vicinity of Manchester are several pleasure resorts, some of which have acquired no little celebrity, and rank among the finest in the state. Lake Massabesic on the east, on the line of Concord & Portsmouth railroad, and the Uncanoonuc mountains on the west, with its carriage road to the summit of the principal peak, are the most noted, and are open to the public during the season of summer travel. They will be described more fully in subsequent pages of this work. ROUTES FROM BOSTON. 17 If the traveler chooses to tarry for a time in Manchester, he will find at the ==.<,.£. W^ Haseltine House Accommodations in every way first-class. The house is new, and furnished throughout with all the modern improvements. It was built to meet a recognized want, and the proprietor, P. W. Hasel tine, and his son Arthur, are well-known to the traveling public as thoroughly qualified for the positions they so usefully fill. Their accommodations for commmercial travelers, with close proximity to express and telegraph offices, horse cars, and the business cen tres, render the house a popular resort for business travelers, and in fact for any and all who may seek its hospitality. But to continue our journey. Passing on through Manchester, only the manufacturing portion of which is visible from the car window, up the valley of the Merrimack, past the Amoskeag Falls, where the Amoskeag Manufacturing Co. have recently erected a splendid stone dam, through the town of Hooksett, past the flour ishing village of Suncook, we arrive at Concord, the capital. Here are located the Capitol building, the State Prison, Asylum for the Isane, and other State institutions, which are worthy of a visit from those interested. The Asylum, in particular, is pronounced a model of its kind by visitors from abroad. If the tourist chooses to remain in Concord for any length of time, he will find "the latch-string out " at the Phenix or the Eagle, excellent hostelries of the first class. 18 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. Eagle Hotel Is situated directly opposite the Capitol, and is elegantly fitted up for the accommodation of the traveling public. John A. White, Esq., is the popular landlord, and1 his genial presence makes his guests feel thoroughly at home. Boston, Concord, and Montreal Raieroad. From Concord the route is continued, by the Boston, Concord, and Montreal Railroad, through some of the most charming scenery in the world. In a short time after leaving Concord, and passing several unimportant stations, we reach the bustling village of Tilton. Here, in the midst of beautiful surroundings and wholesome influences, are located the seminary and female college of the New Hampshire Methodist Conference. The vicinity is also be coming somewhat celebrated as a summer resort. Lake Winne- squam, formerly known as Sanbornton Bay, is in the vicinity, and appears in sight soon after leaving Tilton, at the left of the rail road, and adds to the pleasure and coolness of the ride for a con siderable distance. 20 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. Laconia, . The next stopping place, is a flourishing manufacturing village, having various industrial enterprises, such as mills, foundries, ma chine shops, and a car manufacturing establishment of some note. The scenery in the vicinity is fine, and renders the place a desirable summer residence. The next station is Lake Village, Similar to the last-mentioned in point of attractiveness and manu facturing importance. The extensive shops of the B. C. & M. Railroad are located here, which, together with several other indus trial enterprises, gives a bustling character to the place as a busi ness town. A good hotel, the Mount Belknap House, furnishes ample accommodation to the traveler and good facilities for sum mer boarding. Rural Scene near Lake Village. Still onward, the train skirting the beautiful shores of Long Bay, we soon come in sight of the lake proper, and to a halt at Weirs Landing. For years the modest station and steamboat landing were the only objects of interest in the vicinity, but the place is now one of the- first importance among summer resorts. A finely located camp ground a few rods from the station has been occupied for several years, and the cottages have become the summer homes of a large number of people, while the adjacent country is being rapidly taken up for summer residences. A hotel, kept by Mr. L. R. MmiF Hlf ^te -aim -1 LC¥ - _? _.' -'v £S8^s §r4 gSwf Bffilii (mm Weirs Landing. ROUTES FROM BOSTON. 23 Weeks, furnishes good accommodations, both transient and for the season, at reasonable rates. Summer boarders may find home-like quarters among the residents of the vicinity, some of whom have capacious houses, and can accommodate their city visitors in good style. The worthy postmaster, Mr. Benai George, has an ample residence, and his hospitality is enjoyed by large numbers of trav elers during the season. The camp-meetings of the Methodists and the temperance people are held here annually, and the grounds are frequently used by other denominations. The attractiveness of the place and surroundings renders it worthy of a passing note here, and, like many of the mountain-bound tourists, we will pause and rest in the charming atmosphere which surrounds Lake Winnipesaukee. This beautiful sheet of water is situated about five hundred feet above the level of the sea, in the counties of Carroll and Belknap. Its form is very irregular, its general course being from northwest to southeast. • Its greatest length is about twenty-five miles, and its breadth varies from one to seven miles. It is supposed to be fed by hidden springs, as the supply of water at the outlet is quite co pious, and its exposure to evaporation considerable, while the streams which flow into it are few in number and inconsiderablein volume. The outlet is a river by the same name, having a consid erable fall in its course to the Merrimack, into which it empties at Franklin. This lake serves as a vast natural reservoir, to feed the river which gives the flourishing cities on its banks their commer cial importance. The name is of Indian origin, and is defined as meaning, " The Smile of the Great Spirit." The peculiar appropriateness _ of the designation will be apparent as you leave the cars in the height of noon-day, escaping from the heat and dust of the train, and take your position on the deck of the boat, under the grateful shade of its awning. As the boat glides smoothly over the placid waters, a gentle breeze fans your heated brow and ripples the surface of the water into a sweet smile, which the poetic Indians likened to that of the benignant Deity. Deep and cankering must be the cares which cannot be left behind and for the time forgotten, under the influence of such surroundings. The Lady of the Lake Is a trim, commodious craft, under the command of Capt. W. A. Sanborn, whose past experience has qualified him to care for the hosts of travelers who annually commit themselves to his keeping. The sail to Centre Harbor is a delightful one, and as the boat „^SSSmBR ROUTES FROM BOSTON. 25 winds among the beautiful islands, covered with verdure, or gives you views of the wooded shores or distant mountains, a delicious repose steals over the senses, and you feel at peace with all the world. About three miles from our starting point is situated Bear Island, one of the largest in the lake. This is a celebrated resort for excursions and picnics. The mountain scenery presented to view on the route is very beautiful." The shores of the lake are not precipitous, but away in. the distance can be seen the peaks of several mountains. Those of Sandwich and Ossipee may be seen to the right, Chocorua to the north, and Belknap to the rear. This trip is spoken of by Edward Everett in the following terms : " I have been something of a traveler in our own country,. — though far less than I could wish, — and in Europe have seen all that is most attractive, from the Highlands of Scotland to the Golden Horn of Constantinople, — from the summit of Hartz Mountain to the Fountain of Vaucluse ; but my eye has yet to rest on a love lier scene than that which smiles around you as you sail from Weirs landing to Centre Harbor." Centre Harbor Is pleasantly situated at the head of the central one of three bays which make northwardly from the lake, and is' delightfully located for summer resort. The Senter House, J. L. Huntress, proprietor, and the Moulton House, S. F. Emery, proprietor, will furnish ample accommodation to such as wish to tarry in the vicinity. Several objects of interest are to be visited from here, the prin cipal of which is Red Hill, An elevation of some 2,500 feet, commanding a beautiful view of the surrounding country. The lake view from the summit is very fine,. and is thus described by Starr King : " Here is the place to study its borders, to admire the fleet of islands that ride at anchor upon its bosom, from the little shallops to the grand three-deckers, and to enjoy the exquisite lines by which its bays are enfolded, and in which its coves retreat, and with which its low capes cut the azure and hang over it in emerald fringe." Excursions, may be made from Centre Harbor to Wolfeborough by steamer, or to Diamond Island, where there is a comfortable hotel, and if the opportunity should offer, a moonlight trip over the lake will be found a most delightful pastime. The attractions at and near Wolfeborough will be detailed in connection with other routes to the mountains. 26 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. Many visitors to the mountains complete the journey from Cen tre Harbor to Ossipee, thence by Great Falls and Conway and Portland and Ogdensburg railroads, while others, returning to Weirs station, resume the journey by the line from which we have diverged. Proceeding northward from the lake, the train makes a halt at Meredith Village, __..«B^MB2a»wB^feafis»_ _ A fine place of summer resort, quiet and rural, and presenting many attrac tions in the way of drives and walks, pleasant, invig orating breezes from the flllyFlg^JpE? «§ lake, and a health-giving fflHte *'I atmosphere from every quarter. The Elm House will furnish accommoda tion for such as choose to tarry by the way. Leaving Meredith Vil lage, we still find ourselves in the midst of lake scen ery, this time by the shores of Lake Wukawan, and soon arrive at the flourish ing village of Ashland, where a thriving people are engaged in the manu facture of hosiery, woolen goods, paper, straw-board, leather, lumber, etc. Squam Lake is in the eastern part of the town, three miles from the sta tion, and is said to afford some of the finest trout- fishing to be had in the State. Magnificent lake trout, weighing fifteen to twenty pounds, have been taken from its waters, and the supply is reputed to be abundant, A good hotel, the Squam Lake House, will furnish a stopping? , place for any who choose to tarry for the enjoyment of Izaak Wat ton's favorite pastime. rig WmM» Ragged Mountain and Long Pond, Meredith. iHJ> Ik, in ¦ ¦¦ ". > . ¦-¦. :.- S'iililH The approach to Plymc sents a succession of c panoramic views, ever with each curve in the r pleasing the senses with each new picture. S^v-^eSSbSP ~ -¦-^^^^^^'^•^^^m' ^sp^^Si^S ' IsBm ^^^^^^f^^S^Tsi Plymouth. 28 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. The next stop is at the celebrated station at Plymouth, The Pemigewasset House. Here the welcome, sound of the gong, coupled with the conductor's announcement of thirty-five minutes for dinner, depopulates the train instanter. Josh Billings, in com menting on the rapidity with which certain sounds travel, cites that of the dinner horn as one of the most rapid. The tympani of the mountain travelers, with appetites whetted by the lake breezes, and the zest which travel gives, respond to the call of the welcome gong at Plymouth with all the alacrity described by the joking Josh in connection with the dinner horn. ' ' The hotel itself, the central point from which excursions are made, is worthy of our notice, as one of the finest and best-managed houses in the country. We present herewith a front view of the building, with the river and waiting train in the foreground. The lower story of the hotel is used for a depot and waiting rooms, while the remainder is devoted to hotel uses. Pemigewasset House, Plymouth. ROUTES FROM BOSTON. 29 The broad staircase, leading to the second story, opens to the office and hallway, from which you may enter the spacious and ele gant parlors on the left, or the equally spacious, and, at dinner time, more attractive dining hall on the right. The luxuries and delicacies of the season are served at the tables, by attentive waiters, and the honors of the house are performed by mine host, C. M. Morse, Esq., the genial, courteous, and capable manager of the establishment. His experience and well-known ability in this direction are a sufficient guarantee that nothing will be wanting in in the entertainment of all who may come under his care. The hotel was erected in 1863, is four stories in height, with a frontage of two hundred and thirty feet. There are one hundred and'fifty commodious sleeping rooms, a portion of them en suite, and all of them airy and well furnished, and the views from its windows are fine. An observatory crowns the building, from which the views in every direction are charming, and the prospect very exten sive. The cuisine, as already intimated, is unexceptionable, and the luxuries of all markets, combined with the dainties from garden, lake, and stream, find their way to the tables from the magical realms of the kitchen, to satisfy the most fastidious palate, and to satiate the most voracious appetite. The Plymouth House Is a well-kept hotel, located on Main street, and makes a specialty of taking good care of summer boarders. The house is nearly new, and is kept by Buchanan & Willis. ill Livermore„Faixs. 30 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. The points of interest around Plymouth are numerous and invit ing. Livermore Falls, two miles distant from the hotel, on the Pemigewasset River, are picturesque and romantic. The river is spanned by a bridge, some sixty feet above the falls, and the view is had from this. Geologists find indications of volcanic action in the rocky bed of the river, and attribute the existence of the falls to this cause. Mount Prospect, four miles distant, is an object of interest, and those who can find the time should not fail of a visit to its summit. A carriage road leads nearly to the top, and the ascent is gradual and not fatiguing. The view from the summit, and during the as cent, is very fine. The elevation is nearly three thousand feet, and the eye takes in a vast circle of mountain and lake scenery, in every direction. In the foreground the fair valleys of the Pemigewasset and Bakeijj rivers lie spread out in their peaceful beauty, with the silvery streamsj meandering among the farms and villages, fed here and there by a mountain stream or meadow brook, while farther away to the north the giant peaks of the White Mountain range thrust their cold and'* frowning summits among the clouds, standing as grim sentinels against the distant horizon. The view in this direction is pecul iarly fine, and amply repays the labor of the ascent. To the left the grand Moosilauk rises majestically in view, and as you turn toward the east and south the eye takes in a grand panorama of lake, river, and mountain scenery, equalled, perhaps, but scarcely ex celled from any point of view in the State, except from the White. Mountains themselves. > The good people of Plymouth still cherish, and preserve in its primitive condition, the building in which Daniel Webster made his first appearance as a duly admitted lawyer. It is now used as a wheelwright shop, and is often honored by the visits of those who revere the memory of the great statesman. From Plymouth, a favorite and popular diversion from the jour ney by rail is made by means of the Pemigewasset Valley Stage Route, Leading up through the towns of Campton, Thornton, Woodstock, and Lincoln. But as our purpose now is to describe the through and quick route to Mount Washington, we leave the description of this charming route to its proper place in the work, and speed on ward by rail. Leaving the fair valley of the Pemigewasset, the road now follows the valley of ¦ Baker's river for some twenty miles. As we near Rumney, eight miles from Plymouth, Bald and Rattlesnake mount ains come into view. The latter is a rough, precipitous collection ROUTES FROM BOSTON. 31 of rocks and boulders, said to furnish lurking places for the veno mous reptile now so nearly extinct in the Granite State. During the onward progress of the train, a bold and prominent mountain peak has occasionally attracted the attention of the ob- serving^ tourist, and as we approach nearer to its base the impres sion of its magnitude and grandeur continually increases. It is the Owl's Head and Moosilauk Mountain. famous Moosilauk, formerly called Moosehillock, but incorrectly named thus ; for if it is a " little hill," as that name would imply, the next pertinent question would be, what is a mountain ? Its isolated position renders the view from the summit peculiarly fine, and very extensive. Leaving the railway station at Warren, a §2 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. ride of some five miles brings us to the base, and as we look up at its towering summit, the impression of its sublimity still deepens. A turnpike to the summit, some four miles in length, furnishes op portunity for a comfortable and not excessively wearying trip to the very top, where a comfortable hotel furnishes entertainment and re freshment. The elevation is 4,636 feet, and from this point of observation, unobstructed views are to be had in every direction. Looking toward the northwest, the vision is greeted with the bold and prom inent peaks of the White and Franconia Mountains. Washington, the grandest of all, stands out against the sky in bold relief, with his attendant bodyguard of majestic hills, scarcely less in rank and grandeur. Looking toward the south and west, the eye takes in the Kearsarge, Monadock, Uncanoonucs, and in fact all the promi nent elevations in southern New Hampshire. Far off to the east, glimpses may be had of the highlands of the Pine Tree State, and to the north some portions of Canada may be seen. Resuming our line of rail travel at Warren station, we pass the elevation known as " Owl's Head," directly west of Moosilauk. This is a precipitous, rocky cliff, assuming from some points of view, a resemblance to an owl's head. Warren summit is the height of land which divides the rains of heaven, sending a portion to the Merrimack, to turn the busy wheels of industry along its shores, thence to find their way to the Atlantic at Newburyport, and the other portion to the Connecticut, thence to Long Island Sound. From this elevated situation, we get glimpses of the fertile Connec ticut valley, and a fine view of the great " Ox-bow " meadows, where the river makes a grand bend, partially enclosing one of the most fertile tracts of land in New England. Leaving the villages of Haverhill and North Haverhill on the left, we arrive at Woodsville, on the Connecticut. The White Mountain express keeps to the right of the river, but the mail train, which follows, crosses over to Wells River, making connec tion with the Passumpsic River Road for Lakes Memphremagog and Willoughby, and Montreal, and with the Wells River and Montpelier Railroad for Montpelier, Burlington, Mount Mansfield, Lakes Champlain and George, and other places in Vermont and westward. Woodsville is a young but thriving village, and quite an important! railroad centre. It is admirably situated, commanding fine views" of rich meadow land to the south and 'the mountains to the east and north. Its elevated position gives it peculiar exemption from " hay fever " and similar climatic diseases, and patients afflicted often experience great benefit from a sojourn in the health-givingj atmosphere of this vicinity. ROUTES FROM BOSTON. 33 Located nearly opposite the Boston, Concord & Montreal depot, is the Mt. Gardner House, Kept by A. S. McLeod. Its situation, on elevated ground, gives a good view of the fine scenery in the vicinity, and the tourist to the mountains or Montreal will find it a desirable " half-way house " at which to rest on his journey, as it is within easy access of all the popular resorts. Mr. McLeod has made extensive alterations and improvements in the house the present season, and is determined to make it a home-like resort, kept in first-class style. From Woodsville to Lancaster, the line of road is known as the White Mountain Railroad, but is now practically a part of the B. C. & M. Railroad. The route is up the valley of the Wild Ammo- noosuc River, rightly named wild, too, for a more " helter-skelter " stream can scarcely be found anywhere. Its source is about five thousand feet above its mouth, and it descends among the hills and through the valleys, turning a saw-mill, irrigating a meadow, onward still, until it loses its identity in the Connecticut, and mingling with its waters, speeds on to Long Island Sound. At Lisbon, where the train makes a brief stop, the people are en gaged in the manufacture of starch, pearl-ashes, lumber, etc. They have also a gold mine, but have never yet made it " pan out " enough to get up a "big bonanza." 34 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. The train arrives at Littleton at about 3.30 p. m. This town is one of the most enterprising in the mountain region, being a place of no little commercial importance. The Connecticut river, which forms its northern boundary, has quite a descent all along its borders, and furnishes power for several extensive manufacturing enterprises. Stages leave Littleton for the Franconia Mountains, and for the Profile House, on the arrival of the train, and many improve the opportunity to take an early look at the " old man " before going to the summit of Mt. Washington. Of this trip we will speak more fully in its proper connection. The hotel accomodations of Littleton are adequate to the de mands of the traveling public. Thayer's Hotel Has a reputation among the visitors to this section as a first-class and popular house. It is conveniently located, well-furnished, and provided with all the comforts and conveniences of a well-kept establishment. Mr. Thayer, the proprietor, has had a long expe rience in the business, and knows the needs and demands of the traveling pubic, and will strive to meet them. Good livery accom modations are always in readiness forhis guests. The Union House, Kept by W. A. Richardson, is centrally located, and has been re cently repaired and refurnished. Its rooms are large, cool and airy, and it is the aim of the proprietor to provide a temporary home for his guests. As Littleton is a central point from which many points of interest are visited by carriage-drives, the matter of livery teams demands a large share of attention, and the stables connected with the house are furnished with teams adapted to the wants of all its patrons, from a single carriage to the most elegant cabriolet. Drivers and guides will be furnished if desired. The proprietor, realizing that fair treatment and reasonables prices will secure permanent success, assures his patrons that those who come once will want to come again. Special rates will be made for those who desire to spend a portion of the season at the hotel. The next stop from Littleton in which we are interested is at Wing Road, where connection is made with the Mt. Washington Branch Railroad, which forms a part of the direct, through route to Mt. Washington. The enterprise and courage of the B. C. & M. road in projecting and building this branch, are being amply re warded in the extensive patronage it receives at the hands of the MSi *£k Littleton, 36 THE SWITZERLAND OF ' AMERICA. public. Aside from its value as an aid to summer tourists in reach ing the mountains, it is doing much to develop the resources of the country which it traverses. The hillsides on every hand are heavily wooded, and by furnishing an accessible market for the lumber products of the Ammonoosuc valley, the road finds an extensive patronage at the hands of the enterprising capitalists who own the mills and the lumber. %WmmlB^^^^M Bethlehem Station. With the engine puffing at the task of climbing the grades, which are necessarily steep, we arrive first at Bethlehem Station, a view of which is given herewith. The Village of Bethlehem Is some three miles to the right, in a charming, elevated position, commanding a view of the entire White Mountain range. Few localities in this region present such inducements for sum mer boarders as are afforded in and around the village of Bethle hem. It is located on an elevated table land, about 1,300 feet above the sea, and commands views of the mountain scenery both remark able in extent . and delightful in variety and novelty. From the entire length of Bethlehem " street," the prospect is enchanting. The prominent peaks of the range are in full view, at just the right distance to make a grand picture, delighting the eye, exhilarating the mind, and impressing the beholder with the sublimity of this por tion of the Creator's handiwork. In addition to its attractiveness in these respects, the healthful- ness of its climate presents strong inducements to invalids, especially ROUTES FROM BOSTON. 37 such as need the invigorating influences of its pure, dry atmos phere. Sufferers from " hay fever," and other catarrhal or asth matic complaints, here find relief, and exemption from those attacks which render life, at times, almost a burden. Hotel and boarding-house accommodations are ample, and have increased in number and capacity with the increasing demands of the traveling and boarding public. The following are some of the hotels : Sinclair House, Durgin & Fox, proprietors ; Maplewood Hotel, Mt. Agassiz House, Avenue House, Centennial House, Al pine House, Mt. Washington House, Park House, Prospect House, besides a large number of boarding-houses of greater or less capa city, which afford abundant opportunity for persons who desire to obtain a summer residence in this delightful locality. The drives in the vicinity are almost unlimited in number and variety, and will give an additional charm to a residence among the beautiful scenery of the " white hills." Four miles from Bethlehem, is located the Twin Mountain House, Kept by A. T. & O. F. Barron, who are also the proprietors of the Crawford House. The Twin Mountain House is one of the largest and best managed of the mountain hotels, and is located in full view of the Twin Mountains, from which it takes its name, and com mands a fine view of the White and Franconia Mountain scenery, besides being convenient of access to all the principal points of interest and attraction. This house is the favorite resort of the great Brooklyn preacher, who spends -his summer vacations here, and preaches every Sunday to a congregation made up from the residents and visitors for miles around, who throng the spacious parlors of the house to overflowing. The next stopping place on the railroad is the White Mountain House. This hotel is one of the oldest and best-known of the mountain resorts. Less pretentious than some of its neighbors, it offers to the traveling public, and especially to those of moderate means or inexpensive tastes, the comforts of good accommodations and am ple fare, at from $i to $2.50 per day. During the coming season the house will be under the sole su pervision of Mr. Rounsevel, who has had a long experience in hotel management, and will no doubt give his guests ample satis faction, unless they expect to find the elegance and "style," to which the house will make no pretensions. The stables connected with the house are well supplied with 38 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. o g < sE>o 2 good teams, and if the tourist chooses to remain here for a season and make excursions to the various points of interest, Mr. RounseJ vel can fit them out with teams and drivers, at rates that will be- satisfactory. Within sight of the White Mountain House, is the new and elegant Fabyan House, Six miles from the base of Mount Washington, and five miles from the Crawford House. This is the largest house in the section, hav ing accommodations for 450 guests. It is situated on a beautiful ROUTES FROM BOSTON. 39 intervale, at an elevation of more than fifteen hundred feet above sea level, and from its piazzas a fine view is to be had of the White Mountain range, with Mount Washington and the elevated railway in the centre of the picture. The completion of the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad has made it an important railroad centre, and its easy access by stage and rail from all the principal points in the mountain region, ren ders it a very popular resort. Fabyan House. The house is owned by a stock company, having been built to meet the growing demand for increased accommodations in the vicinity, and is in charge of Mr. W. H. Stevens, who brings to the post of manager a long experience and good judgment, a combina tion which cannot fail to insure success. From the Fabyan House, excursions may be made by stage to the Franconia Notch or to Jefferson, and by rail to Crawford House, Willey House, and North Conway. The completion of the branch railroad to the base of Mount Washington affords an opportunity to make a trip to the summit and return the same day, if desired. Mariy, however, will choose to continue in the onward journey, and make the ascent at once. So, after a brief stop at Fabyans, seats are resumed in the train, and the engine puffs along the grades en route for the base of the mountain. Mt. Pleasant Hotel, a cosy, well-kept house, is passed shortly after leaving Fabyans, and being within a short distance of the 40 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. Wild Ammonoosuc Falls, Many will avail themselves of the opportunity to tarry and view this natural curiosity. The river makes a descent of about fifty ' feet, in a broken, irregular way, and in some- places has worn curious channels in the rocks, resembling a cauldron, in which the water seethes and boils in its downward course, and issues laughing, sing ing, and leaping in its wild and merry race for the intervales below. Six miles from Fabyans we reach the base of Mount Washington, the terminal station of the branch railroad and the depot of the Mount Washington Railway. Among'the many monuments to inventive and constructive genius for which the nineteenth century is celebrated, one of the most re markable is that which is sometimes called the " sky railway." Projected by Sylvester Marsh, Esq., it was chartered by the state legislature, with but little faith on the part of the members who voted for it that it would ever become an accomplished fact. And, indeed, to those who -looked at it from that standpoint, it might seem absurd to suppose that a road could ever be constructed to rise one foot in three, and to be traversed by a locomotive. Such, however, is the result of the combined energy of the inventor, skill of the engi neers, and the financial aid of the railroads interested, chief among which is the B. C. & M. Road, under the judicious and far-seeing management of the late John E. Lyon, Esq., as president, and the executive ability of J. A. Dodge, Esq., as superintendent. MOUNT WASHINGTON RAILWAY. 41 The accompanying illustration gives a good idea of the appear ance of the road in actual operation. It is built like an ordinary railroad, with the addition of a middle rail, and in that middle rail lies the success and safety of the project. It is made of two paral lel bars of iron, with cross bolts of round iron, made about four inches apart, forming a toothed rail into which a geared wheel plays, with teeth to "mesh" with those of the rail. That geared wheel is on the driving shaft of the locomotive, and as it revolves, the engine climbs steadily onward and upward ; depend ing, not upon friction, as in ordinary railroading, but upon the geared wheel and track, for its elevating power. Rollers running under the central rail, prevent the train from jumping the track. Brakes are in use as on ordinary cars, and in addition, the atmos pheric brake is used, besides which there is a contrivance attached to the. geared or notched driving wheel by which the whole train is held firmly stationary in case of any accident to the machinery. So secure and safe has everything been made that not a person has been killed or injured by it since the railroad has been in opera tion. The locomotive is a novelty in construction and appearance, re sembling nothing in particular, but presenting a figure somewhat between a steam fire engine and a locomotive cab. The boiler is built so as to be upright when on the angling track, and on level ground it looks as though preparing for a somersault. It is always below the train, which it pushes up in the ascent, and precedes it in the descent. The engines and cars were built by Walter Aiken, Esq., of Franklin, N. H., and are a testimonial to his genius in the adaptation of the rolling stock to the difficulties of the situa tion. The cars are constructed to carry about fifty passengers, and one engine is required for each car. The seats in the car are inclined backward, so as to be nearly level when ascending or descending, and arranged to face the base of the mountain. A story is told of a timid but inquisitive passenger, and the con ductor of the train, which may not be amiss in this connection. The passenger was a lady, and with the curiosity for which the sex gets full credit, was asking a host of questions. Determined to be assured of the safety of the trip, she asked what would happen if such a contrivance failed. " Oh ! " said the conductor, " there is another safety appliance to fall back on." " But what if that fails ? " " Well, there is another," describing it to her. " And if that gives out, what will become of us ? " " Madam, that depends altogether on how you have lived in this world," was the quiet reply. At the Depot. — "All Aboard." MOUNT WASHINGTON RAILWAY. 43 Notwithstanding the apparent hazard of a journey by rail up so- steep an incline there is probably less of real danger than on the ordinary railroad car. Every precaution is used to insure immune ity from accident, and as safety instead of speed is the desideratum, the journey is performed- with great caution, occupying about an hour and a half. 44 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. The reader must not suppose, however, that the trip is tedious because of the time consumed. Far from it. The novelty of the situation, the changing scenery, and the beautiful prospect, give sil very wings to the moments, and the passenger is surprised to learn that so much time has slipped away in making the ascent. Soon after leaving the station below, the train emerges from the woods, and the prospect opens before" the passengers with increas ing beauty and grandeur as the train moves upward. Several stops are made on the way for water, which is taken from large tanks, fed by mountain springs far above and conducted down in pipes. These watering stations have been appropriately named, according to their location, as Gulf Station, Waumbek Station, etc. At a little distance above Waumbek Station, we come to the noted trestle structure known as Jacob's Ladder. The grade over this is quite steep, and the sensation of looking down from the train is a novel one, and notwithstanding the solidity of the structure the traveler breathes freer when the train comes near terra firma. The Gulf of Mexico, a yawning chasm, is passed, and, unless the season has been unusually warm a bank of snow may frequently be seen in its cavernous depths. The changes in vegetation, so peculiar to high mountains, are quite marked and noticeable. The " tree line " is passed, and the noble forest firs and spruces give way to stinted shrubs, which in turn give place to moss and lichens, and finally to bare rocks, with here and there a trace of vegetation clinging in the recesses. Near the summit is a pile of rocks, surmounted by a tablet, which marks the spot where Lizzie Bourne, of Maine, perished from exposure, September, 1855. In company with two gentlemen she attempted the ascent of the mountain without a guide, became chilled from exposure, bewildered and exhausted, and finally per ished almost within a stone's throw of the shelter of the Summit House. As the road winds around the crown of the mountain, the view rapidly changes, and at the east may be seen a new succession of scenery. The Glen House, nestled far below in the distant valley, appears but a white speck, while the highlands of Maine form a bold background against the eastern sky. The Mount Washington House. This capacious and airy hotel is situated at the summit of the mountain, and has accommodations for some two hundred visitors. It serves, also, as a depot for the train, and the passengers gener ally spend one or more nights on the summit, finding comfortable accommodations and good fare, even in the midst of the clouds. The house was built in 1872, and opened to the public the fol- Lizzie Bourne Monument, Marking the spot where the unfortunate young lady perished from exposure, in September, 1855. 46 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. lowing year. It is under the superintendence of Mrs. Dodge, whose acquaintance with the wants of tourists, and experience in catering to the traveling public, enables her to fill the position with great acceptance. The tables are spread with the luxuries of the season, and the house is kept in a style equal to the best of the mountain hotels. The Tip-Top House and the Summit House, which formerly en tertained visitors who ventured to spend a night on the summit, are still standing, and in case of an overflow of the new house, can be pressed into public service again. The View from the Summit. At an altitude of a mile and a quarter above sea level, in the midst of the most glorious scenery on the continent, the lover of nature feels amply repaid for all the labor he has expended in reaching the summit by the privilege of gazing, even though for a few brief moments, on the picture spread out before him. Naturally, the first object which the eye seeks is the most dis tant, and the question is generally asked by strangers, " Can we see the ocean ? " If the day be clear, and the position of the sun favor able, an earnest gaze to the southeast will reveal the blue glimmer of the Atlantic sixty-five miles away "as the bird flies," scarcely distinguishable from the sky above it, as it washes up on the coast of Maine. A little to the right, and about due south, a glimmer of water is more clearly distinguished, which comes from the surface of the beautiful Winnipesaukee. Turning still to the right you see other mountains of the range on whose highest summit you are standing, Mount Monroe, rough and ragged, with its twin ponds, Mount Pleasant, Mount Franklin, Mount Willey, and lesser elevations be yond. Westward, far in the distance, the Green Mountains of Ver mont appear, with Camel's Hump and Mount Mansfield, while nearer, you see the village of Bethlehem, the valley of the Ammo noosuc, Mount Lafayette, and the expanse of forest which fills the picture. To the northwest, the villages of Lancaster and Jefferson are seen, and to the north the table lands of Canada are visible, stretch ing away in the dim distance, and uniting with the horizon. To the northeast, the eye reaches to the unbroken forests of Maine, " track less as the desert," and in imagination you follow, through the air, the path of Prof. King and " Ranger " of the Boston Journal, in their memorable night balloon voyage a few years since. Mount Katahdin is visible far away, throwing its dim outline against the sky, while in the foreground Mounts Jefferson, Adams, and Madison tower grandly up before you, as a grim body guard to Washington. JNestled in the glen, the white hotel buildings of the Glen House MOUNT WASHINGTON SUMMIT. 47 establishment are visible, while near at hand, toward the southeast, Mount Jackson appears, and in the distance the Pequaket or Kiar- sarge may be seen, together with Sebago Lake in Maine. Sunrise on Mount Washington. The grand, culminating view from this lofty point of observation is to be had at the rising of the sun. For this incomparable pros pect you must spend a night among the clouds, and perchance more than one night, as nature is fickle at that altitude as well as in the valleys below, and not unfrequently " old Sol " has half a forenoon's work before him to dispel "the mists of the morning " before his face is visible to the watchers on the summit. Should you be favored, however, with both a clear sunrise and sunset in one day, as was the writer on the occasion of his first visit, you will cherish, in the chambers of memory, the most enchanting pic tures of a lifetime. Sunset at sea has awakened the lyre of many a poet, and inspired the pencil of many a painter, but pen nor pen cil can give an adequate picture of the beauties of a sunrise as viewed from the summit of Mount Washington. At early dawn the inmates of the house are roused, and such as ¦choose arise and dress, and take their position on the platform east of the building, to watch for the first appearance of the "golden orb of day." Beneath you the valleys are still in slumber, and a deep gloom is spread over all, in sharp contrast with the light of ¦dawn which already illumines the mountain peaks around you. Banks of mist here and there indicate the location of bodies of water, and possibly overhanging clouds may partially hide some of the mountain summits from view. All eyes are turned expectantly toward the east, which is begin ning to show a faint rosy tinge, deepening every moment till it reaches a crimson or perhaps a golden hue, a fitting couch from which the brilliant day-king is about to spring forth to enter upon his glorious reign. Suddenly one point in the eastern horizon grows more intensely bright than all the rest, and the disc of the sun is then discernible, quickly increasing in proportions until the broad face of the great luminary so dazzles the eye as to compel a withdrawal of the gaze. Looking then into the valleys below, the effect is transcendently beautiful. While the spectator is , bathed in the full golden sun shine, the sombre shadows are just 'beginning to flit away,_ present ing in the strongest possible manner the contrasts of light and shade ; and not until some minutes have elapsed, does the new born day reach down into the deepest valleys to drive forth the lingering remnants of night. The view of the mountain peaks around, as, one after another, 48 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. according to their height, they are touched by the rays of the ris ing sun, is very beautiful, and even the dullest mind can scarcely resist the enthusiastic inspirations awakened by the scene. An,d' then, as the sun mounts steadily upward, giving heat as well as light with his cheering rays, the mists below are slowly dispelled, and na ture puts on her most bewitching countenance, with all her gloomy frowns banished, supplanted by the sweetest smiles. Such is but a faint description of a sunrise witnessed by" the writer. The picture will vary with the varying circumstances, and that which it may be the reader's fortune to behold, though entirely unlike it, may be none the less beautiful and enchanting. Novel Coasting. The railroad and hotel employe's, and the gentlemen of the United States Coast Survey who are stationed on the mountain, some times make use of the " coasting board," represented in the above illustration, for going down the mountain. The device is a very simple affair, but is provided with safety brakes, and, in the hands of a skilled operator, is an expeditious method of transit. The journey of three miles from the summit to the base is made in from five to ten minutes. This break-neck speed would be exceed ingly dangerous to a novice, and, indeed, is not without its risks to those familiar with its use. Several accidents have occurred in the use of this method of travel, but the temptation to travel fast is so strong that others are not deterred from using it. MOUNT WASHINGTON SUMMIT. 49 Winter at the Summit. For nearly three-quarters of the year the climate on the top of the mountain is absolute winter, and a portion of the time of arctic severity. Dwellers below can have little idea of its extreme rigor, yet a little band of men each winter brave its terrors, in the inter ests of science, making their home in one of the buildings, and recording the temperature, the velocity of the wind, etc. With the thermometer at forty or fifty degrees below zero, and the wind blowing one hundred and fifty miles an hour, it may readily be imagined that " high life " under such circumstances must have more of novelty than pleasure in its composition. From the summit, the descent of the mountain may be made by the railroad, by the bridle path to the Crawford House, or by the carriage road to the Glen House, or if pedestrianism is desired, on foot by either of the routes mentioned. The bridle path and the carriage road will be described in their proper connection, as the different routes are given, respectively. Northward from Littleton. At Wing Road station, a short distance from Littleton, the direct travel to Mount Washington diverges, as previously noticed, and goes over the branch to Bethlehem, Twin Mountain, White Moun tain, and Fabyan Houses, and onward to the summit. There is, however, a range of scenery northward from this which none can afford to lose who desire to take in the entire mountain scenery of northern New Hampshire. Returning to Wing Road Station, or continuing on the main line from Littleton, the town of Whitefield is soon reached, where are located the extensive lumber works of the Brown Brothers & Co., before whose Yankee enterprise the im mense forests of northern New Hampshire are melting away as " the dew before the sun." This company have constructed a rail way of their own, which taps the lumber region, otherwise difficult of access, and develops the resources of that section of the State to a remarkable degree. The views to be had from various points in the vicinity are very fine. Kimball Hill, about a mile and a half from the village, affords a grand point of observation, and attracts the attention of curiosity seekers on account of some peculiar tracks in the solid granite, said to have been made by a moccasined foot when the rock was in a plastic state. Darwinians, and speculators on the pre-Adamic age, will be interested in their examination, and will doubtless leave off as wise as when they begun. The next station is Dalton, four miles distant, and seven miles further on, we come to 50 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. Lancaster, The shire town of Coos County, and the most important in northern New Hampshire. As a summer resort it has acquired no little celebrity, its salubrious atmosphere proving a great curative in " hay fever " and asthmatic difficulties, while its natural scenery is sur passed in extent and variety by few localities in the State. The place is thus described in a recent report of the New Hampshire editorial excursion : " Lancaster is a beautiful town, of nearly or quite twenty-five- hundred people. It possesses an unequal share of the fine bottom lands of the Connecticut valley, while Israel's river, creeping tor- - tuously from the base of the mountains, supplies a large area of choice intervale. There are comparatively few hills impracticable of tillage, and consequently Lancaster is one of the best farming towns in the State. We have never seen better fields of grass 'any where. The village is charming, and the citizens exerted them selves with generous assiduity for the entertainment of their guests. The Lancaster House, Is a very large and elegant hotel. Most of thf HO%W >< 66 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. high and wooded shores. The village at the head of the bay is quite small, the town of Alton being a mile further south on the railroad. On the west shore of the bay a beautiful grove of con siderable extent has been used for a number of years by the Ad- ventists for campmeeting purposes. Cottages have been erected year by year, until the place presents the appearance of a thickly settled village, and during the warm season many of these are occupied by their owners as summer residences. The camp-meet ing's are largely attended, requiring extra trains and boat trips for the accommodation, of the immense crowds which throng the place, especially on Sundays. From Alton Bay pleasant trips may be made to the summit of Mount Belknap, to Sharpe's Hill, to Mount Major, Prospect Hill and Lougee's Pond, all objects of considerable interest. But should no stop be desired, the passengers may alight from the train directly upon the steamboat wharf, where the staunch and elegant steamer, Mount Washington, is in waiting, for a trip to Wolfeborough. Capt. A. Wiggin, for many years favorably known in connection with steamboat travel on the Lake has command of the boat, and will do all in his power to render the trip a pleasura ble one. As the jaunty craft wends its way among the lovely islands, affording an occasional glimpse of mountain scenery or a fine view of tlie picturesque shores, the traveler congratulates himself that he has chosen a route so full of pleasing variety. Wolfeborough, Ten miles from Alton Bay, is reached all too soon, and here, if the tourist chooses, he may take the cars for North Conway, or he may proceed to Centre Harbor, and thence to Conway by stage and rail. Should he choose to tarry at Wolfeborough he' will find plen ty of attractions, and excellent hotel facilities. The Pavilion is a large and commodious house, overlooking the Lake. The Glenden House is near the Eastern railway station, and is provided with all the modern improvements. The Belvue House also presents claims which will interest the traveling public. It has connected a good livery, and boating facilities. The Lake View, kept by Frank J. Lucas, has acquired a justly-deserved popularity, and will no doubt maintain its high reputation in the future. Copple Crown Mountain Is about five miles from the village, and is 2,100 feet in height. A carriage road extends to within a mile of the summit, rendering the ascent comparatively easy, and if desired, saddle horses may be had for the remainder of the distance. The view, especially Wolfeborough, 68 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. that of the lake, is very fine, taking in nearly its whole extent. To the northwest the Ossipee and Sandwich ranges are visible, with, Chocorua to the left, and Mount Washington in the distant back ground. Across the Lake, Mounts Belknap and Gunstock rise boldly into view, and to the south and southwest, the isolated peaks of southern New Hampshire may be seen, together with the more level regions of that section of the State. Adjoining Copple Crown, and affording an ascent still less fa tiguing, is the elevation known as " Tumble-down-Dick," and the view from its summit is quite similar to that from the other peak. Centre Harbor. From Wolfeborough the Mount Washington makes regular trips to Centre Harbor, already described on page 24. The hotels to which alllusion has been made, together with numerous boarding houses, offer tempting inducements for a prolonged stay in this charming locality. From Centre Harbor the journey may be continued by stage to West Ossipee, thence by rail to North Conway and Fabyans ; or, crossing the lake to Weirs, connecting there with the Boston, Con cord & Montreal Railroad, as described under Route A. WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH. I ROMINENT among the many remarkable features of White Mountain scenery, and to many minds as impressive as any other, is the famous pass known as the White Moun tain Notch, an immense chasm several miles in extent, with high and frowning walls, towering above the valley in some places tothe height of two thousand feet. Between these walls the Saco River winds its way, fed by numerous rivulets, which come dashing down the mountain sides, sometimes swollen by heavy rains and melting snows into impetuous torrents, and swelling the volume of the river which they feed, until, overleaping its banks, it rushes wildly through the narrow gorges, inundating the villages and car rying destruction and devastation iu its course. 70 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. Those who wish to visit the Notch will avail themselves of the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad, which now extends throughout its entire length, and whethsr the entrance be made from above or mm** :WN*fc*'- White Mountain Notch. below, the advantages offered by this line are a great convenience to the tourist. Its great utility as a route to the mountain region. will be described elsewhere. Presuming that you have already visited the summit of Mount Washington, you will now return to Fabyans, and taking the train of the P. & O. road, a tide of five miles brings you to the northern gate of the Notch, where stands the celebrated Crawford House, Which, with its delightful location, its healthful surroundings and liberal arrangements for the accommodation of its patrons, is one of the most popular of the numerous mountain resorts, and with the completion of the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad has become one of the most accessible. A. T. & O. F. Barron are the popular proprietors, and C. H. Merrill, Esq., is the efficient manager, as sisted by Chas. G. Emmons as clerk. The house is located on a level plateau, some two thousand feet above the sea, the highest point of land in the valley. Two springs « o a> ¦n o d a oc w 72 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. on the premises discharge themselves in opposite directions, one into the Saco and the other into the Ammonoosuc, and a lakelet near the house may be considered as the headwaters of the former river. A bridle path from the Crawford to the summit of Mount Wash ington was formerly a very popular route for ascending that peak, but the railroad has greatly reduced the travel by that method, although an occasional equestrian makes the trip, while it still affords a beautiful and desirable route for pedestrianism, if the tourist is what is commonly described as " strong in limb and sound in wind." The ascent is over Mounts Clinton, Pleasant, Franklin, and Monroe, and affords a magnificent prospect at several points on the route. Gibbs' Falls Are well worthy of a visit, being but a short distance from the hotel, and in connection with other falls on the same brook, are possessed of many attractive features. The fall, which was named in honor of Mr. Gibbs, a former landlord of the Crawford House, is forty feet in height, and divided in two by a little island, which is scantily clothed with verdure, and supports a lone pine tree. " Beecher's Falls," named for the Brooklyn preacher, are but a short distance from the house. In the stream upon which they are situated Mr. B. once received an involuntary baptism. The Gate of the Notch Is a narrow passage between the perpendicular cliffs at the entrance to the great mountain pass, and is but a short distance from the Crawford House. This defile is only twenty-two feet wide at the " gate," and as you enter its portals, with the frowning walls tower ing above you, the sense of their sublimity is overpowering. The effect is increased when the sombre shades of evening are drawing on, and the shadows grow long. The Saco River, a diminutive stream so near its rise, flows through the gates and down the Notch, increasing in volume and power as it receives contributions from mountain rivulets and hillside springs, until it becomes an en gine of strength in turning the busy wheels of industry far down toward the sea. Near the gate of the Notch are several objects of interest. The " Old Maid," the "Young Man of the Mountain," the "Infant," the " Grandmother," the " Pulpit," the " African Face," and the " Sentinel," will be pointed out to you, and at the right points of view bear considerable resemblance to the objects for which they are named. white mountain notch. 73 The Willey House. Proceeding dtiwn the Notch, we find the pass gradually widening, and the base of Willey Mountain is soon reached, where stands the celebrated Willey House, so widely known in connection with the terrible disaster of August 28, 1826. The mountain towers above the house to the height of two thousand feet, and the sides are very precipitous. On that fatal Monday night, a terrible storm raged about the Notch, and the mountain streams overleaped their bounds, swelling the Saco into a perfect torrent. The soil and rocks on the steep acclivity of Mount Willey became loosened by the rain and came crashing down the mountain side with fearful roar, threatening de struction to everything in its path. Within the house were Mr. and Mrs. Willey, five children and two hired men. They fled from the house, and in endeavoring to reach a place of safety, were all over whelmed, and perished. Had they remained in the house they would have been safe, as a huge rock in the rear of the house di vided the slide, and the building escaped unharmed. The slopes of the mountains were nearly denuded of soil, barely enough remaining to furnish subsistence to a growth of white birches, which now cling to the sides of the mountain. For about a year after the disaster the house was unoccupied, but it has since been the residence of parties who exhibit the premi ses to curious visitors for a small admittance fee. Mount Willard. The ascent of this mountain involves a carriage ride or a walk of only about two miles from the hotel. The journey lies a por tion of the way through a pleasant forest up a gradual incline, where at an elevation of more than two thousand feet above the Crawford House, you emerge upon a beautiful little plateau, at the edge of which is the sheer precipice, down into the Notch below. The view from this elevation is surpassingly beautiful. The yawn ing gulf of the Notch lies at your very feet, flanked by mountain peaks and forest glades. Across, at apparently within speaking distance, is Mount Willey, and on the side of Mount Webster the Flume and Silver Cascade are seen in all their beauty. Opposite Mount Willey, the steep acclivity of Mount Webster rises, piercing the sky 2,000 feet above the valley. On the side of this elevation is to be seen a lovely water-fall, which has received the title of 74 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. The Silver Cascade. mm ^*S^ili i£mm &3P 3Pi A part of the stream is called the "Flume," where the brook glides swiftly through the channel in the solid rock. The Flume and the Cascade are thus described by " Aladdin," the summer correspondent of the Boston Traveller, in a letter to that paper : "The former and smaller is a ribbon of water, which in its downward course has chanced upon a deep, trough like channel, formed by some disarrangement of the rocks, or possibly worn by the wa ter in ages gone. Through this trough or flume it mer rily careers, gliding with al most the rapidity of light over the smooth stone, and looking, amid the half-lights that fall through the trees, like a stream of quicksilver. " The Silver Cascade is broader and higher, but flows over flat, smooth cliffs, occa sionally sportively leaping from one to the other, instead of being circumscribed by the limits of a raceway. For several hundred feet the sun- rays are flashed back from a silvery pathway of liquid bril liancy, and the delightful music of the plashing wa ter is borne to the ear." The view of this love- „ ,, , ly cascade is HBal^W^^^!S^?^iJ^^OPEK finest by the full m o on , when its title of Silver Cas cade seems appropriate, so much does it resemble a stream of molten silver. ROUTE FROM BOSTON. 75 In the front of Mount Willard, near the summit, is a cavern known as the " Devil's Den." The entrance is visible from below, as you go down or come up the Notch near the Willey House. It is inaccessible from below, and can be explored only by means of ropes, and then does not repay the trouble, being limited in extent and uninteresting in its general features. As a considerable number of tourists will enter the mountain re gion from the eastern side, they will make their first acquaintance with the scenery of the Notch from its southern entrance, and in this connection we will consider another through route from Boston and Portland, which we will designate as ROUTE C, Via Eastern, Great Falls and Conway, and Portland and. Ogdensburg Railroads. The completion of the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad to Fabyans, has opened a route to the mountains through some of the wildest and grandest scenery of the mountain region, and affords additional facilities to mountain tourists for easy railroad transit, which has removed the hardships hitherto made necessary by tedious stage or horseback riding. The road extends from Portland to and through the celebrated mountain pass known as the White Moun tain Notch, and in full view of the grand scenery of that locality, elsewhere described. The finely equipped and thoroughly furnished cars of this line leave the station of the Eastern Railroad, Cause way street, in Boston, and of the P. & O. Railroad in Portland, the morning trains arriving at Fabyans at noon of the same day, and the afternoon trains arriving at Fabyans about five o'clock, in am ple season to make the ascent of Mt. Washington before sunset. The running time between Portland and Fabyans is only four hours. The route from Portland gives opportunity to visit Sebago Lake, with its multitude of attractions, and the trains connect with the steamers which ply upon its waters. The Start from Boston. The facilities for summer travel afforded by this line, are among the best, and for quickness of transit are unexcelled. Parlor coaches are run on the day trains, and the route is cool and pleas ant, and affords fine views along its entire length. Two through trains leave daily, and running through Charles- town, Somerville, Chelsea, Lynn, Swampscott, and Salem, give the pissengers a continuous picture of suburban scenery, until the 76 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. famous tunnel is reached, 600 feet long, into which the train plunges, surrounding the occupants for a few moments in utter darkness. At Beverly a branch road connects for Gloucester and Rockport. Continuing by the main line, the historical town of Newburyport is reached, thirty-six miles from Boston, at the mouth of the Merri mack river. This place has lately acquired additional celebrity by means of its newly-discovered silver mines, which have created a furore, and made some poor people wealthy, with a possibility of vice versa when the bubble shall burst. Passing over the river, we soon reach Salisbury station, a short distance from Salisbury Beach, a celebrated summer resort, and speedily cross the line into New Hampshire, passing through Sea- brook and Hampton Falls, to Hampton, where coaches are found in readiness to convey the traveler to Hampton Beach. The seacoast and island resorts in connection with this route will be noticed elsewhere, and hence we pass on from Hampton "to North Hampton, where connection is made by coach with Rye Beach; and thence to Greenland, where connection is made for. Straw's Point. Seven miles further on, the ancient city of Portsmouth is reached, at the mouth of the Piscataqua river, on its right bank. From this place the steamers Appledore and Major convey passengers to the Isles of Shoals. Crossing the river on the long bridge, we get a fine view of the city, with the Kittery Navy Yard on the opposite bank, a sketch of which is presented in the illustration on the opposite page. At North Conway Junction the main line is left, and we proceed by the Conway division, through South Berwick, Salmon Falls, Great Falls, and Rochester, to Wolfeborough Junction, where those who desire to visit Lake Winnipesaukee can take the waiting train for Wolfeborough. But if we choose to continue on by the through route to North Conway, the train is soon in motion again, and we speed on through the three villages of Wakefield, the three Ossipees, Madison and Conway, arriving at North Conway, one hundred and thirty-seven miles from Boston, in about five hours and a half. The Attractions of North Conway Have long been the delight of artists, who have found the locali ties in and around the place a fruitful field for the work of the pen cil and brush. The beauties of the place have of late years ap pealed also to a less appreciative but discriminating public, among whom there are many lovers of tlie beautiful, although they may be unable to copy their mental impressions upon canvas or express them upon paper. ¦ ^^^^ ms. MNWmmmmSm mem- sim mm Portsmouth and the Kittery Navy Yard. 78 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. Before the tourist commences his inspection, however, he will wish to decide upon a place at which to stop. Of hotels, there seems to be an abundance, all of them .presenting their varied claims to the public. The largest is the Kiarsarge House, Kept by S. W. & S. D. Thompson, with accommodations for three hundred guests. The elder Thompson is a veteran hotel keeper, and has acquired a ripe experience in the business, so that the pub lic may rest assured that nothing which a thorough knowledge of hotel-keeping can suggest will be wanting in their entertainment. The Washington House Is pleasantly located within a few steps of the Portland & Ogdens burg depot, and is kept by J. M. Gibson. As all the principal at tractions of North Conway are within convenient distance from the house, it is a desirable resort for visitors to this section, and re ceives a good share of public patronage. The proprietors will en deavor to give entire satisfaction to all who may favor the house ¦with their visits. The Intervale House Is near Intervale Station, and is kept by Stephen Mudgett & Son. Its location and surroundings, and the established reputation of the ATTRACTIONS OF NORTH CONWAY. 79 proprietors, combine to render it a popular house. The views from its verandas are fine, overlooking the beautiful North Conway in- Intervale House. tervales, and commanding a full view of the White Mountain range. Other hotels, of good repute, present their claims to the public, and having made a selection from the number the tourist proceeds to view the attractions of the neighborhood. Prominent among these is Mount Pequaket, or Kiarsarge, About three miles distant from the village, in a northeasterly direc tion. Its altitude is 3,367 feet, and the ascent may be made on horseback or on foot. The latter is not difficult, and may be ac complished without a guide, if desired. The view from the summit is very comprehensive, taking in the whole of the White Mountain range, that of Mount Washington being especially fine, probably the best to be had on the eastern side. To the east and northeast, the Franconia range is visible, and, to the south and southwest, Rattlesnake Ridge, Moat Mountain, and the angular peaks of Chocorua may be seen. A fine view of the Saco valley is to be had from this point, and the river may be traced for a very long distance. Sebago Lake, Lovewell's Pond, and other objects of interest, may be seen to the south and west, while the fertile inter vales, stretching away to the seacoast, fill up the beautiful picture and delight the eye with their loveliness and quiet repose. 80 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. *g|f|pfg|»F: Mount Pequaket or Kiarsarge. This mountain divides with Kearsarge Mountain in Merrimack county the honor of having given the name to the gallant ship which sunk the privateer Alabama during the [late war, and the question of priority is still in dispute. Echo Lake Is on the opposite side of the Saco, at the base of Moat Mountain, taking its name from the fact that the human voice or the blast of a trumpet is reflected sharply from the cliffs which overhang the margin, although the frequent repetitions which distinguish its namesake in the Franconia region are wanting. The Ledges and the Cathedral. Moat Mountain here presents a rocky, perpendicular face, ex tending four or five miles, and rising in some places to the height of eight hundred feet. In one of these cliffs is a natural cave in the rock some forty feet deep and about sixty feet high. The floor is strewn with huge blocks of granite, which seem to have been forced off from the roof above by the action of water and frost, while other blocks seem just ready to fall. The ascent to the Cathedral is attended with considerable labor, bdt to stand within its walls, shaded by the trees at the entrance, is an abundant re ward for the toil. ATTRACTIONS OF NORTH CONWAY. 81 At the foot of the cliff, near the Cathedral, a huge slab of granite has so fallen among lesser blocks as to enclose a space into which you may humbly crawl through a crooked passage. This has been denominated the " Devil's Den." Diana's Baths. On the same side of the river, a little to the north, in the granite bed of a small stream, there is a succession of curiously-worn chan nels, produced by the eddies and revolving bowlders, and christened Diana's Baths. The largest of these cavities is some ten feet in diameter, and as many in depth, filled with crystal water, seemingly a fitting bath for wood nymph or goddess. If the weather be warm, you may possibly surprise some tangible goddess, not " of the Ephe- sianS," imitating Diana's example by cooling their travel-worn feet and ankles in the limpid stream, although with the increasing con ventionalities of the place, the custom once so common is nearly obsolete. Artist's Falls. These are situated in a southerly direction from the village, where a small mountain stream glides down among surroundings of rocks and trees, remarkable, not so much for volume or height, as for the happy combination of scenery, which has furnished a sub ject for so many sketches. Excursions may be made from North Cottway to Jackson Falls, Chocorua Lake, Gould's Pond, Lovewell's Pond, and a host of other 82 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. charming places, and the tourist will only regret that he has no more time at his disposal to spend in this lovely region. Resuming our line of travel from North Conway by the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad, the valley of the Saco river is followed, and at Glen Station, connection is made with the stage line for Jackson and the Glen House, through the romantic Pinkham Notch. The natural beauties of scenery in connection with this ride are exceedingly attractive, and may be enjoyed by diverging from the main line of travel at Glen Station, or on the return from the sum mit of Mount Washington by the carriage road to the Glen House, thence by stage to Glen Station. The scenery of Pinkham Notch will be described in subsequent pages of this work. Observation Cars. In going through the White Mountain Notch by the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad, the tourist may view the magnificent scenery from the celebrated observation cars, which are a peculiar feature of this line. As the train moves onward, a glorious pano rama of enchanting beauty is presented to the beholder, as, one after another, the mountains, valleys and streams come into view, and the trip is one long to be remembered. At Upper Bartlett an interesting historical landmark is seen, known as Sawyer's Rock. It is near the road, on the left hand, and has its celebrity by reason of its association with the discovery of the Notch. A hunter by the name of Nash, while climbing a tree on Cherry Mountain, dis covered the pass between the mountains, and hastened to explore it. Finding the narrow entrance, since called the " Gate," he passed through, and reported his discovery at Portsmouth to Gov. Went- worth, who promised him a large tract of land on the northern side of the pass if he would bring a horse through it, to Portsmouth. By the assistance of a brother hunter, named Sawyer, the task was accomplished, though not without great exertion, as the poor beast was sometimes drawn up precipices with ropes, and let down on the other side. As the last obstacle was passed, Sawyer drained his rum bottle and dashed it against the rock, which ever afterwards has borne his name. The tract of land granted them was afterwards known as Nash and Sawyer's Location. Following the bed of the Saco, which soon bends around Hart's Ledge and turns to the north, the road crosses Sawyer's River, a small stream having its rise in Bemis' Pond, a few miles west ward, and well known to the patrons of the Crawford House as the WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH. 83 home of the mountain trout, which are often caught in large num bers. The valley grows narrower as we proceed, and the mountains seem to be crowding together as if to dispute our right of passage. Near the roadway there comes dashing down the hillside a little stream crossed by a rustic bridge. These are known as Nancy's Brook and Bridge, And commemorate a sad incident which occurred here in the win ter of 1778. A deserted girl pursued her recreant lover on foot from Jefferson, and perished from exposure in the snow and dark ness. She was afterward found at the foot of a tree near the margin of the stream. Proceeding onward about half a mile, we reach the famous Mount Crawford House, Once the residence of old Abel Crawford, who reared a family of hardy pioneers on this very spot. His son, Ethan Allen. Crawford, cut the first bridle path' to Mount Washington, in 1821. He was a famous hunter, and the older inhabitants of that section remember, and relate with great zest, the many anecdotes with which his fire side talks were enlivened. Still pursuing our way up the valley, we come in sight of Mounts Crawford, Resolution, and the Giant's Stairs, and soon the sub limity and grandeur of the Notch bursts upon our view, and we pass between its narrow walls over the debris of the Willey slide, to the Willey House itself, previously described, thence on through the Gate of the Notch to the Crawford House and beyond. Retracing our steps to Glen Station, we find in waiting the stage for the Glen, and we embark for a trip through Pinkham Notch. At Bartlett a hotel furnishes a half-way or resting station for pas sengers between the Crawford and Glen Houses, and perchance your stage-load may receive accessions from the waiting tourists. Continuing on our journey, we soon reach the point in the road, near the bridge which spans the Ellis River, where a fine view can be had of Goodrich Falls. Leaving the road, and turning a little to the left, you soon reach an old bridge, from which a fine view of the falls may be had. These are the highest in uninterrupted descent of all the mountain falls, and when the river has been swollen by heavy rains, are quite voluminous. 84 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. About a mile further, and we reach the Jackson Falls House, near which may be seen the Jackson Falls, and then the pretty vil lage called "Jackson City," which, like some of its western proto types, was called a city on discovering its mineral wealth, leaving time and the speculative mania to fill its proportions to correspond to the title. Its slow growth, however, leaves it still a city only in name. There are several rich mineral deposits in the vicinity, in cluding iron, copper and tin. Passing on from Jackson, around the base of Eagle Mountain, we find the valley growing narrower, and we soon enter the moun tain pass known as Pinkham Notch, Which received its title from a family of that name who settled in the locality early in the spring of 1790, bringing their household goods from Connecticut on a hand-sled over the snow, which was then some five feet deep. Their log cabin had been erected the previous autumn, and this they found nearly buried in the snow: The Notch road was constructed and named by one of the hardy sons of this family. ¦Vl°* *fK„j\ « v»*m^, Glen Ellis Fall. This cascade may be reached from the stage road by a path diverg ing to the right, and is formed by the descent of the Ellis River from a ledge over a sheer precipice seventy feet in height. The waters have worn a deep chan nel or groove in the rock, and the configu ration of the fall led to its first receiving the prosaic name of the " Pitcher Fall," which has since given place to the more poetic title of Glen Ellis. This is one of the most interesting bits of scenery in the vicinity' of the Glen. PINKHAM NOTCH AND THE GLEN. 85 Crystal Cascade. About a mile further on, another path leads to the Crystal Cas cade, a beautiful and interesting fall, about eighty feet descent, but broken repeatedly in its fall, and broadening with each successive interruption, until it resembles a feathery plume, inverted and nod ding in the breeze. It is fed by springs from Mount Washington, and melting snows from Tuckerman's ravine, an interesting locality which the tourist will wish to explore while on this side of the mountain, or from the summit. Glen Ellis Fall and Crystal Cascade are generally visited from the Glen House, which gives more time than a brief stop by the roadside, with the stage in waiting. The Glen House. This magnificent mountain hotel, is situated, as its name would imply in a beautiful glen, surrounded by mountain peaks. Its ele vation is 1,632 feet above the sea, which gives its atmosphere a sin gular exemption from hay fever and similar diseases. The views of mountain scenery from its piazzas and grounds are remarkably fine and impressive. In the rear of the house, by climbing Mount Carter a grand view can be had of Mounts Washington, Clay, Jef ferson,' Adams, and Madison, and of many other elevations of les ser note. ,. . , , , , The objects of interest in the immediate neighborhood are nu merous and attractive, and will entertain the visitor for many days 86 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. or weeks if he has the time or inclination to tarry. Some of the finest of these are on the road to North Conway, over which we have just come, and a portion of which we have already described. The Emerald Pool Is situated in a sequestered spot, a little distance from the road, less than two miles from the hotel, and consists of a miniature lake, or enlargement of the bed of the river into a basin, where the waters repose in quiet for a brief season, only to go forth again in noisy tumult on their way toward the ocean. Thompson's Falls. A little further on, you come to a brook which forms a tributary of the Peabody river, and by following it up about a quarter of a mile, arrive at the commencement of a series of lovely cascades, more than half a mile in extent. Aside from the charms of a ram ble along the margin of the stream, some very fine views are had, at points in the path, of Mount Washington and Tuckerman's Ravine. , Garnet Pools. About three quarters of a mile from the hotel, in the bed of Peabody river, are to be seen a variety of curiously-worn cavities in the solid granite, hollowed out and polished by the constant ac tion of the water. Besides being a curiosity, they furnish an inter esting study for the geologist. The village of Gorham is eight miles from the Glen, on the Grand Trunk Railway, at which point passengers from Boston and Portland disembark fof the mountains, or the cars may be taken for Montreal and Quebec, or for Northumberland, where connec tion is made with the B., C. & M. Railroad for the western side of the mountains. On the road between Gorham and the Glen, views may be had of Mount Moriah, and " The Imp," so called from its resemblance to a grotesque human visage. The Ascent of Mount Washington From the Glen, by the carriage road, is a feature of mountain travel of special interest, and in connection with the descent by rail on the other side, constitutes a trip full of novelty and beauty. The road is eight miles in length, and was opened for travel in 1867, its construction having occupied six years. By skillful, engineering the road has been so built as to rise on an average only about one foot in eight, the steepest place being one foot in six, and that for mount Washington summit. 87 a short distance only, rendering the ascent a very easy and com fortable journey. For about half the way the route lies through the forests. After the " tree-line " is passed, the road winds along the rocky ledges, giving rare views of the surrounding country. It is_ important to remember that the temperature of the valley below is no criterion as to what may be expected on the mountain. The tourist should be provided with warm and waterproof clothing, as the changes are frequently quite sudden. Near the summit, the Lizzie Bourne monument may be seen, to which allusion has already been made. Arriving at the summit, the hospitable shelter of the Mt. Wash ington House affords rest and refreshment to the traveler, and should he feel inclined to tarry for a brief season, the facilities of the establishment will be found ample, and sufficient to meet the tastes of the most exacting. Tuckerman's Ravine. This immense seam in the side of Mount Washington may be explored from the summit, or by following up the stream which forms the Crystal Cascade, already described. The former is the more common method of exploration, and to the lovers of the grand and sublime, affords an entertaining and profitable excursion. The ravine was named in honor of Edward Tuckerman, Esq., who fre quently visited it in botanizing excursions. The deep gorge is often filled to a great depth by the snows of winter, and not until late in the summer do they give way to the influences of the sun, and in process of melting, sometimes form beautiful arches of snow and ice, through which the rivulets flow for hundreds of feet. From the summit, the traveler may return to the Glen, or de scend by the railway to the foot of the mountain on the western side, and thence to the Fabyan, White Mountain, Twin Mountain or Crawford Houses. ROUTE D. Another, and on many accounts desirable route to the White Mountains from Boston, is via the Fitchburg, Cheshire, Central Vermont, and Passumpsic Railroads, to Wells River, thence by the Boston, Concord & Montreal Road, as described in Route A. The former part of this route leads directly to the scenery of Mount Monadnock, which will receive further description at our hands in a subsequent chapter. Leaving the depot of the Fitchburg Railroad on Causeway street, the through cars of the Cheshire Road, in conjunction with Pull- 88 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. man Palace and Sleeping Coaches, are run over the roads above described, to the vicinity of the mountain region, affording the tourist some fine views of mountain and river scenery on the way, and expeditious transit to the various points of interest in New Hampshire. The express train, after leaving the suburbs of Boston, makes its first stop at the historical town of Concord, Mass., memorable for its connection with the early period of the Revolution. Here is the home, of Ralph Waldo Emerson, of literary- fame, and many who are engaged in business in Boston reside here, with their families. At Concord Junction, a little beyond, the tracks of the Lowell and Framingham Railroad are crossed, and a junction effected with the Nashua, Acton and Boston Railroad. At Ayer Junction, the line intersects with the Worcester and Nashua Railroad ; also with the Peterboro' and Shirley branch of the Fitchburg. This is quite an important railroad centre, and at train time presents a lively appearance. Fiichburg, fifty miles from Boston, is reached in about two hours, and with only a brief stop the train proceeds onward, over the line of the Cheshire Railroad, toward the Connecticut valley. This portion of the route lies through the romantic scenery of western New Hampshire, and at some points of view the prospect is very fine. The road was built at an immense cost, a large amount of cutting, blasting and filling being required in its construction, but the amount of patronage bestowed upon it after its completion showed that it met a want. At South Ashburnham the Vermont and Massachusetts division of the Fitchburg road is reached, where the great Hoosac Tunnel route diverges. Proceeding northward the train soon . reaches Winchendon, a flourishing town near the New Hampshire line, and the terminus of the Ware River Railroad, the Boston, Barre and Gardner Railroad, and the Monadnock Railroad. Crossing into the Granite State and pushing toward the Connec ticut, the isolated peak of Mount Monadnock soon comes in sight, and at Troy station stages are found in readiness to convey pas sengers to the mountain. Particulars of this side excursion will be given hereafter. Still pursuing a northwesterly course, the young and flourishing city of Keene is reached, where the train halts a few moments for refreshments, while the panting locomotive replenishes the wood and water receptacles. From Keene the grade is upward, over quite an elevation of land, from which extended views may be had of the Connecticut valley. Four miles from Bellows Falls the village of routes from boston. 89 Walpole Is reached. This town has acquired no little celebrity as a sum mer resort, its delightful location rendering it very attractive. It is situated on an elevated table-land, overlooking the Connecticut whose charming and fertile valley lies spread out in a panorama of exceeding beauty, visible in either direction for a long distance from the village itself. By climbing to the summit of an elevation east of the town, the view becomes still more extended, taking in the beautiful, verdant hills of Vermont, several villages on either side of the river, and the river itself, winding in its tortuous course among green fields and fertile meadows, and reflecting the sunlight from its bosom as it flows onward to the Sound. Charming drives and places of interest serve to amuse the sum mer visitors, of which a large and yearly-increasing number throng to the place from New York and other cities. Rev. Dr. Bellows, of New York, has his summer residence here, and spends his vaca tions amid the charming scenery of the place. Summer boarding- houses accommodate the larger portion of the visitors, the only hotel being the Wentworth House, H. A. Perry, proprietor, which is insufficient in capacity to meet the large demand for summer board. But we must not be charmed by the beauties of the place into forgetting that we ax&.en route for the mountains, and must hasten onward, with the train, which crosses into Vermont, stopping at Bellows Falls. Just previous to crossing the river, we pass at the base of a precipitous elevation, which seems almost to overhang the track. This is Mount Kilburn, more generally known as Falls Mountain, and is quite a prominent object in the landscape as viewed from across the river. At Bellows. Falls Sufficient time is given for meals, and a commodious dining hall and lunch-room may be found in the depot. Should the tourist take time and opportunity for a stop at this place, he will find the best of accommodations at the Island House or at Towns' Hotel, both under the management of Chas. Towns, Esq. The former is kept open during the summer season only, for the accommodation of the traveling and summer-boarding public, while the latter has •" the latch-string out " the year round. Mr. Towns and his efficient help-meet, who is the very personification of a genuine hostess, will make you feel at home, and give you the best of attention and care at reasonable rates. At Bellows Falls the excursionists from Boston will be joined by passengers from New York, New Haven and Springfield, via all-rail 90 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. line, and proceed up the valley of the Connecticut, by the Connec ticut and Passumpsic rivers route, to Wells River, where connection is made with the Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad, and the journey continued as indicated in Route A. MOUNTAIN AND LAKE SCENERY. And now it becomes our duty to describe some of the less cele brated points of interest within the boundaries of our State, although many of them are scarcely less interesting than those already de scribed, and will present the added claim of novelty to some who have been surfeited with the others. KEARSARGE MOUNTAIN. Among the mountain peaks of New Hampshire which have become celebrated for their natural scenery, few, outside of the White Mountain region, can compare with the majestic Kearsarge, whose name has become a household word in connection with the gallantry of its namesake, whose exploits in our navy, under com mand of the brave Commodore Winslow, have passed into the annals of history, surrounded with a halo of glory. The mountain is situated in the county of Merrimack, in the towns of Warner and Wilmot, and the summit is about three thou sand feet above sea-level. The sides of the mountain are clothed with forests to the base of the cone, above which the vegetation grows more and more scanty, the stunted evergreens finally giving way to the bare rock, which is of a mica slate formation, and gives evidences of former volcanic action. Three elevations on its sum mit enclose a depression which is pronounced by geologists an extinct crater. The only approach to the summit has until recently been from the northern or Wilmot side, involving a long and tedious ascent on foot after leaving the carriage route. Any better route than this had been deemed impracticable, and in accordance with that sup posed fact a good hotel was erected on the northern side of the mountain, and named the Winslow House, in honor of the noble commaHder of the vessel which sunk the rebel Alabama. Some of the citizens of Warner, however, deemed the mountain accessible from the southern slope, and accordingly projected a KEARSARGE MOUNTAIN. 91 carriage road, which should enable all who desired to view the prospect from its summit. The prime mover in this scheme was Col. N. G. Ordway, for many years the popular Sergeant-at-Arms of the House of Representatives at Washington, whose residence is in Warner. Backed by his energetic public spirit, and sustained by his liberality and that of other citizens of the town, and engi neered by the late H. H. Harriman, Esq., who surveyed and laid out the route, the Warner and Kearsarge Mountain Road Is now an established fact, and a highly successful one at that. Mr. John Dowlin, also of Warner, had charge of the construction of the road, and by means of his untiring personal efforts it was opened to the public, with appropriate festivities and a procession along its length, July 4, 1874. It then lacked considerable of com pletion, but since that time has been extended to within eighty rods of the summit. Leaving Warner village, the route follows the public highway for about five miles in a northerly direction. The road is through a fine farming country, with magnificent scenery on every hand. To the south and west the Mink Hills and Sunapee Mountains pre sent their wooded slopes to view, while the snug farm houses, nest ling on the hillsides, charm the eye, and give diversity to the scenery. Two miles from the village we pass the humble cottage where Ex-Gov. Straw was born ; a man of whom Warner may well feel proud. Five miles from the village the road turns sharply to the right, and we soon enter upon the Mountain Road proper, which extends for about three miles through pasture and woodland, and along a height of land which'has been christened " Mission Ridge," from its resemblance to Joe Hooker's battle-field of that name. The ride along this ridge is charming. Gradually rising, the scene presented to the view is grand and imposing, especially to the south and west. The mountain scenery of southern New Hampshire and Massachu setts is visible, interspersed with numerous lakes and ponds, and adorned with flourishing farms and verdant forests. The present terminus of the carriage road is only eighty rods from the summit, and the ascent from here by footpath is easily made. The completion of the road to the very summit, however, is regarded as entirely feasible, and will no doubt soon be accom plished. The View from the Summit Is second only to those to be had from the White Mountain sum mits, and indeed many who have enjoyed them all pronounce in 92 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. favor of Kearsarge. While the difference in altitude makes a cor responding difference in the extent of the view, the location of the latter in the midst of a cultivated and thickly-settled portion of the State, gives greater variety of scenery, combining beauty with grandeur and sublimity. To the northward the view embraces Moose Mountain in Han over, Mounts Cardigan and Moosilauk, Ragged Mountains and, several lesser peaks, while toward the northeast the White and Franconia ranges are plainly visible, and with a good glass the Mt. Washington House may be seen. Mt. Kiarsarge or Pequaket, at North Conway, with Chocorua, Whiteface, and Red Hill in the same general direction, are also visible, with Lake Winnipesaukee a little to the right. Sweeping round to the southward the eye falls on the Uncanoo- nucs, Joe English, the Crotched Mountains, Crany Hill, several ponds and lakes, and a little west of south, the towering peak of the Grand Monadnock. In a clear day Mts. Tom and Holyoke and Mount Wachusett may also be seen. The western horizon is bounded by the Green Mountain range in Vermont, with the Minks, the Sunapees, Camel's Hump, Lovewell's Mountain and Ascutney in the foreground. Sunapee Lake, eight hundred and twenty feet above the sea, glistens like a crystal gem, while in every direction, lakes, ponds, and streams of water enliven the scene. Towns and villages almost innumerable can be seen on every hand, both far and near. It is said that over one hundred may be counted, visible to the unaided eye. It will thus be seen that a view from the summit of Kearsarge would amply compensate a fatiguing effort to obtain it ; and when it is considered that it is to be enjoyed with no more effort than a carriage ride of eight miles, with a short walk at the end, the attractiveness of Kearsarge Mountain as a summer resort must be a great inducement to summer tourists to pay it a visit. To acccommodate the public, who must sooner or later appreciate the pleasure of a visit to this mountain summit, the Road Company have opened the Warner and Kearsarge Mountain Hotel, At Warner village, under the superintendence of Mr. A. C. Carroll, with the intention of keeping it in first-class style for summer boarders and transient custom. To effect this, the hotel buildings formerly known as the Warner Hotel have been enlarged and im proved, greatly adding to their capacity and improving their appear ance. The improvements thus far perfected have been very ex tensive, and are to be continued as the demands of the public shall KEARSARGE MOUNTAIN. 93 warrant, and the traveling public may rest assured that nothing will be left undone to render the house everything that the most fas tidious could desire. Warner and Kearsarge Mountain Hotel. An excellent livery stable will be kept in connection and teams will be supplied for the trip to the mountain, or for the many pleas ant drives around the village, and to adjacent places. Seven miles distant is the flourishing village of Contoocook, and Bradford is the same distance in the opposite direction. Bradford Pond, a beauti ful sheet of water, abounding in fish, and having a lovely beach with a beautiful grove adjacent, and dotted with several islands, may be reached by a pleasant drive, and fishing, boating, and bath ing may be enjoyed ad libitum. A drive of seven miles in another direction brings us to Hen- niker, another enterprising village. Taken altogether, the village of Warner offers many attractive inducements as a summer resort, and the public are beginning to understand and appreciate the fact. 94 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. The town is situated on the Concord and Claremont Railroad, and is in communication with both of these places by two daily trains each way. Passengers can also reach Kearsarge by the northern side by taking the trains of the Northern Railroad for the station called Potter Place, and thence by stage to the Winslow House, from which point the ascent may be made. The hotel is well kept, and is a popular summer resort, well worthy of the increasing patronage it receives. An hour's ride from Warner, on the railroad, brings us- to Sunapee Lake. This body of water is near the summit of Sunapee Mountain, eight hundred and twenty feet above the level of the sea. It is nearly ten miles in length, and varies in width from half a mile to a mile and a half, and the water is very pure and transparent. The outlet of the lake is Sugar River, which flows into the Connecticut. A slight amount of digging at the eastern extremity of the lake would so change its course as to turn its waters into the Merri mack. The growing interest in the fine scenery in the vicinity of this lake, and the opening of the. railroad through to Claremont a few years since, has made it a desirable summer resort, and as a result the hotel facilities have been pushed forward to meet the increasing demand. The Lake View House Has been in successfnl operation for upwards of three years, and is kept by the Putney Brothers, who have done much to popularize the place, and draw an increasing number of visitors to the vicinity. A new hotel is being built at Sunapee Harbor, by Messrs. Runals & Gardner, and private accommodations can be had in the vicin ity, to a limited extent. The Steamer Lady Woodsum Makes regular trips on the lake, in connection with the trains, and may also be chartered by pleasure parties for excursions. Another steamer is also at the command of pleasure parties, together with sailing and row boats. These attractions, together with the excel-' lent fishing and hunting grounds, combine to render a visit to Lake Sunapee one of great pleasure. MONADNOCK MOUNTAIN. 95 MONADNOCK MOUNTAIN. In the southwestern part of the State, in the towns of Jaffrey and Dublin, a mountain peak rises grandly toward heaven to the height of 3,718 feet. This mountain is known as the Grand Mo nadnock, so called because there are three Monadnocks, of which this is the chief. Its great elevation, coupled with its comparative isolation, renders the view from its summit very extensive, and from the variety of the scenery presented, unusually pleasing. The country around is quite well populated, and the panorama of scen ery spread before the observer is diversified with views of towns and villages, mountains, lakes, and rivers, and, in a clear day, the ocean itself. This mountain peak and its surroundings are attracting more attention from summer tourists year by year, and as a result the facilities for their accommodation are constantly being extended and increased. While it does not present all the variety of scenery to be found among the White Mountains, its nearness to the large cities, and its consequent accessibility, render it a popular resort for such as cannot visit the former locality, or desire to enjoy moun tain scenery without the expense and fatigue involved in a more extended tour. This mountain is reached from Boston by the Fitchburg and Cheshire line, alluded to in our routes to the White Mountains as Route D. By changing at Winchendon and taking the cars of the Monadnock Railroad, a branch of the Boston, Barre and Gardner road, the mountain may be reached on the east side from East Jaffrey, or from Peterborough, the terminus of that road. By con tinuing on the Cheshire road to Troy, connection may be made with coaches directly for the Mountain House near the summit. New York tourists and others in the vicinity of Worcester should take the trains of the Boston, Barre, and Gardner Railroad at the latter city, which will enable them to reach East Jaffrey or Peter borough without change of cars. At the latter place excellent ac commodations may be had at French's Hotel, one of the best in the State. Travelers from the White Mountains, en route homeward, desir ing to visit the Monadnock, can change at Wells River, taking the cars of the Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railroad, returning over the route to the mountains designated D in our description of routes, and leaving the cars at Troy, where conveyance may be had direct to the Mountain House. At East Jaffrey, where many of the travelers leave the train, good hotel accommodations may be found, and conveyance can be had to the Mountain House, five miles distant, and about one mile from the summit. The journey from here is easy and pleasant, Iy- 96 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. ing much of the way through shaded groves until the rocky sum mit is neared. The ascent has been facilitated in the difficult places by stone steps and other arrangements for ease of travel, and when the top is reached, the prospect which greets the eye of the climber banishes what little fatigue has been incurred in the ascent. You stand in the centre of a circle whose radius is fifty miles in either direction, taking in a picture of surpassing novelty and beauty. To the north-east the White Mountain range stretches away in the distance, while a little to the left, and much nearer, the Sunapee Mountain presents its summit to the view. Kearsarge and Moosilauk, apparently much nearer to each other than they really are, may also be seen in the same general direction, while a little north of east the twin peaks of the Uncanoonucs loom up against the sky. Directly eastward and in the foreground, the New Ipswich range presents itself to view, with Pack Monadnock at the northern ex tremity and Mount Watatic at the southern, with Temple Mountain between. A little east of south the grand peak of Wachusett Mountain, sometimes called the twin of Monadnock, rises 2,480 feet toward the region of clouds, and is a notable landmark in the scenery before you. To the south and west, a* variety of lesser peaks, named and nameless, present themselves to the observer's attention, while here and there a glimpse of the Connecticut river may be had. In the midst of all, diversifying and adding greatly to the beauty of the picture, may be seen a host of towns and villages, while the ground-work is filled up with fertile fields and verdant meadows, threaded by winding streams or dotted with shining lakes, gleam ing like gems in their setting of green. While essentially unlike the view from Mount Washington, lacking in the wildness and sub limity which characterizes the latter, the diversity of scenery is greater, and to many persons more attractive. Added to this, we have the facility and inexpensiveness of a trip to Monadnock, and the fact that it may be made from Boston and return in a single day, constituting strong inducements to those whose vacation trips are necessarily brief. We would not be understood, however, that Monadnock and its attractions can be exhausted in a single day, or that its resources of entertainment are meagre or limited, as those who spend weeks, and even months, can testify. The scenery around the mountain is very attractive, and the thoughtful student of nature will find an ample field for profitable and entertaining study for an entire, sea son in the vicinity. LAKE MASSABESIC. 97 LAKE MASSABESIC. In an easterly direction from Manchester, about four miles dis tant, lies a beautiful sheet of water known as Lake Massabesic. It consists of two bodies of water, of very irregular shape, connected by a narrow stream or channel, crossed by a bridge of a single span. The larger portion of the lake is in the town of Auburn, the re mainder being in Manchester. Owing to its irregular form it would be impossible to give any adequate idea of its size by stating its diameters, which vary from a few rods to several miles. Its entire circumference, however, is put down as about thirty miles, and its area at two thousand four hundred acres. The scenery by which it is surrounded is lovely and romantic, the basin in which it lies being among fertile farms and verdant fields. Its shores in several places consist of beautiful sandy beaches, in other places being wooded to the water's edge. Its waters enclose several islands, large and small, dotting the view with their rocky shores or wooded slopes, and presenting a scene of quiet beauty and repose, in marked contrast with the hurry and bustle of the "city of spindles," almost within hearing dis tance. The water of the lake is of great clearness and purity, so much so that the city of Manchester has adopted it as its source of sup ply for its water-works recently completed and now in working or der. These are situated' at the outlet, and constitute an interest ing point to visit in a drive around the lake. A fine pumping sta tion has been erected, and a canal and race put in, by means of which the power obtained from the fall has been utilized to do the pumping. A receiving reservoir, at a point of sufficient height to give ample " head," is used for storage, and is of adequate capaci ty for all domestic and fire purposes. No city in the Union can boast a better or purer water supply. The lake abounds in black bass, pickerel, and other varieties of fish, and the followers of Walton may be seen, by day or by night, with rod in hand, waiting patiently for the " nibble " or " bite," or trolling for the wary pickerel or bass. The scene by night, with the light from the torches flashing over the waters or reflected in their glassy depths, is weird and fascinating. The solemn stillness of the night air is broken occasionally by the dip of the paddle, the splash of the hook, line and sinker, as it is thrown into the water or the quivering struggles of the finny victim as he finds him self- impaled on the cruel hook ; to be followed again by profound silence, broken once more, perhaps, by the hooting of the owl or the screech of some other night bird, while overhead the twinkling stars look down, or the waning moon sheds a dim lustre over the scene. There ! let's finish Massabesic by daylight- ! 98 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. The facilities for enjoying the scenery and pleasures of the lake and its surroundings' are mostly vested in the Massabesic House, Situated on the northern shore of the lake, and kept by Offutt Brothers, who have opened it this season on a scale of the greatest liberality, and in a style not to be excelled. The buildings have been enlarged, improved and refurnished in elegant style, and the inducements offered to transient guests or boarders for the sea son are exceedingly attractive. The grounds are ample, p.nd well- fitted up with all the modern appliances for amusement and recrea tion. Beautiful groves, provided with platforms, tables, seats, swings, and everything necessary for the comfort of visitors, are among the attractions of the place, and a splendid fleet of pleasure boats, both sailing and rowing, with fishing tackle, and experienced boatmen, are always at the command of the guests. The railway station is but a few rods from the house, and trains leave Manchester for Massabesic at 8.15 a. m. and 4.25 p. m. ; re turning, leave the lake at 9.35 a. m. and 7 p. m. Leave Portsmouth at 7.55 a. m. and 5.10 p. m. ; returning, leave Massabesic at 8.25 A. m. and 4.36 p. m. The house is open the year round, for perma nent boarders or transient visitors. Lake-land Park, a splendid grove, connected with the house, is open for the free use of the public, and is provided with a fine cafe", at the lake-side, run on temperance priciples, and well provided for the accommodation of pleasure parties. The Steamer Daisy, A trim little craft, owned by Henry J. Eaton, makes trips over the lake in connection with each train, and may be chartered by pleas ure parties, on reasonable terms. SEASIDE RESORTS. 99 Taken altogether, the facilities for enjoyment at Lake Massabe sic are ample and complete, and the place, under the liberal man agement already inaugurated, is sure to maintain and increase its great popularity as a summer resort. Uncanoonuc Mountains. Directly west of Manchester, about eight miles distant, are two graceful mountain peaks which constitute quite a landmark for many miles around. The elevation of the southern peak is about fourteen hundred feet above sea level, and is the first point of land visible to the sailor in approaching Boston harbor. The increas ing public interest in the scenery in the vicinity of these mountains induced the formation of a company for the construction of a road to the summit of the higher peak, which was chartered by the leg islature of 1877. It immediately entered upon the. work, and the same season completed the road and opened it to the public. On the summit an observatory has been erected, forty feet in height, with a furnished room at its base, suitable for picnics and other amusements, or shelter in unfavorable weather. The view from the observatory is very extensive, and embraces a large number of mountain summits, lakes, towns, cities and villages. Shirley Hill, Two miles from the mountain, is a pleasure resort of no little ce lebrity, and a large summer boarding-house has been erected by Mr. S. D. Johnson, and opened this season. SEASIDE RESORTS. With only eighteen miles of seacoast, the State of New Hamp shire presents many attractions in the way of watering places, nearly all her beach-room being utilized to a greater or less extent for this purpose. In describing the route from Boston to the White Moun tains via the Eastern Railroad, a hasty mention was made of the principal beaches traversed by the road, or connected with it by stages. We will here give some further particulars concerning them. Hampton Beach. This is one of the finest beaches on the Atlantic coast. In ad dition to its attractions as a sea beach, it has an immense promon tory, some sixty or seventy feet high, dividing it in the middle, and extending into the ocean about a quarter of a mile. From its fan cied resemblance to the head of a wild boar, it has received the 100 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. appellation of " Boar's Head," and is one of the chief attractions of the beach. During high tide it is almost cut off from the main land, with which it is connected by a causeway built across a marsh. Its elevated position gives it great advantages in respect to air, while its location renders the prospect from it peculiarly fine. The famous Boar's Head Hotel is located near the centre of this pro montory, and is kept in splendid style. Several other hotels are in the vicinity, and the accommodations in this respect are amply sufficient. Coaches connect with the trains of the Eastern Rail road at Hampton, three miles distant. The facilities for boating, fishing, or driving on the beach, are excellent, and careful skippers and drivers may be found in readiness at the hotels. Three quarters of a mile from Boar's Head is Hampton Lower Beach, where hotel and boarding-house acccommodations may be found in abundance. Several private summer residences have been erected here. The northern boundary of Hampton Beach is another promon tory, called Little Boar's Head. This projects into the ocean for some distance, and is about forty feet high. A large private boarding house is located here, together with quite a number of summer residences. The situa tion is very fine, and the climate healthy and invigorating. Rye Beach Is contiguous to Hampton Beach, and separated from it by Little Boar's Head. It consists of two portions, the Upper Beach, and the Lower or Jenness Beach. On the latter was located the large and elegant hotel, known as the Ocean House, kept by Job Jen ness & Son, well known as experienced landlords. This house was, unfortunately, destroyed by fire in the spring of 1874. Several other hotels are to be found in the immediate vicinity, and at the upper end of the beach the Farragut and Atlantic Houses supply a demand for hotel accommodations in the finest style. Combined, and in connection with cottages, they can ac commodate three hundred guests. The beach is world-famous for its hardness, smoothness, gentle slope and splendid drive of several miles. Here each day during the season the fashion and wealth of the great cities can be seen in the water ; merchants, matrons, heiresses, professional men, and children, all clad in those outre garbs which fashion sanctions as bathing dresses, but which give such a comical appearance to every body—and all splashing and dripping like Tritons or mermaids. SEASIDE RESORTS. 101 The Sea- View House is beautifully situated on the highest point of land in the vicinity. It overlooks the ocean, and is surmounted by a large cupola or observatory, from which magnificent views are to be had. Straw's Point. At the northerly extremity of Jenness Beach a tract of land ex tends into the ocean beyond the line of the beach, toward the Isles of Shoals, and is the nearest mainland to those islands. It rises from the water in a high bluff, elevated some forty feet, overlooking the adjacent country for miles, and commanding a fine view to sea ward. Ex-Gov. Straw, of Manchester, was the proprietor of this tract of land, which he purchased in six different parcels, and greatly improved by clearing it of obstructions and making it ac cessible by securing a highway to it. He has an elegant residence on the Point, and has disposed of several lots to personal friends who have also built, until now there is quite a little village of good-looking houses. The name, Straw's Point was given to the settlement by the unanimous vote of its residents. It has acquired some celebrity as the landing-place of the direct ocean cable, lately put into success ful working order. The Point is seven miles distant from Portsmouth, six miles from Greenland depot, on the C. & P. Railroad, and three and a half miles from the Greenland depot of the Eastern Railroad. Portsmouth. This is the chief seaport town of New Hampshire, at the termi nus of the Concord & Portsmouth Railroad and a station on the Eastern Railroad, and is a city of considerable commercial import ance. It is a place of much historic interest, having been settled in 1623, when it received the name of Strawberry Bank, from the plentifulness of strawberries on the bank of the river. _ In 1653 the name was changed to Portsmouth, on the petition of its inhab itants. It is celebrated for its splendid harbor, which is deep, safe, and capacious, and seldom freezes, owing to the rapidity of the tide, which rises here to the height of ten feet. The United States Navy Yard is in a south-easterly direction from the city, about three- quarters of a mile distant, on Continental Island, and is one of the most important in the country. As a summer resort, Portsmouth has quite a celebrity, owing not only to its own attractions, which are numerous, but also to its contiguity to the beachee and the Isles of Shoals. It has several excellent hotels, the most important of which is the Rockingham 102 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. House, owned by Hon. Frank Jones, member of Congress. The house is spacious and elegant, and kept in first-class style. Other hotels of excellent reputation furnish accommodations to a large" number of tourists and summer boarders, and travelers who wish to spend a few days in visiting the curiosities in this ancient city need be at no loss for entertainment, nor for opportunities of whil- ing away their time in a pleasant and profitable manner. Isles of Shoals. This group of islands, nine in number, lies off Portsmouth harbor, nine miles from the city. They were discovered in 1614, by Capt. John Smith, and receive their name from the shoaling of fish which occurs among them in the proper season. Some of the earliest set tlements of New England were made on these islands, and traces of the ancient villages and remnants of their burial places are still visible. The largest of the group is Appledore, which contains about four hundred acres, and was formerly the site of a town of the same name, consisting of about forty families. At present, the only buildings are those of the hotel, the Appledore House, Kept by the Laighton Brothers, and one of the most popular and delightful summer resorts imaginable. The evenness of the tem perature, freedom from dust, and the invigorating sea-breezes, tempt a large number of city denizens away from the heat and tur moil of the crowded streets to its delightful climate, and the house has several times been enlarged to meet the public demand. ISLES OF SHOALS. 103 Mrs. Celia (Laighton) Thaxter, of literary fame, here has her home, and some of her fine poems doubtless owe their inspiration to the dashing of the waves on the rocky shore, and the murmuring oi the sea-breezes around this delightful island. As might be ex pected, the literati find congenial attractions here, in the society o >r and surroundings, and you are liable to meet a coterie of authors, poets and publishers at almost any time in the season. The genial Whittier delights in enjoying his vacations at this place. Communication is had with the main land daily, by means of the snug steamer, Appledore, which connects twice each day with .the 104 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. trains of the Eastern Railroad. Sailing, rowing, sea-bathing and fishing, constitute the chief amusements, for which abundant facil ities are provided. The opportunities for fishing are especially good, as excellent boats manned by careful skippers are always at the service of the guests, and what is better, an abundance of fish may almost invariably be had, as they are more numerous among these islands than elsewhere on the coast. The next in importance in the group, is Star Island, On which is what remains of the town of Gosport, whose inhabi tants are chiefly engaged in 'fishing. A magnificent hotel, The Oceanic, also owned by the Laighton Brothers, is kept in superb style as a summer resort. The steam yacht, Major, connects with the trains of the Eastern Railroad at Portsmouth. Haley's or Smutty-nose is about the same size as Star Island, and lies quite near Appledore. It will be remembered by the read ing public in connection with the tragedy for which Louis Wagner suffered the righteous penalty of the law. This island has a fine har bor, and would be a splendid location for a hotel, for which there seems to be a good demand, so full are the other houses each season. White Island, a mile south-west of Star Island, is the location of a light-house, which was kept for many years by Mr. Laighton, who subsequently became proprietor of the Appledore. " Child Life at the Isles of Shoals," which the readers of the Atlantic will re member, abounds in the incidents of the period when the elder Laighton, dissatisfied with the uncertainties and disappointments of public life, isolated himself from the world, on this lonely island, rendering service to those " who go down to the sea in ships," by warning them off the dangerous rocks and shoals, typical of those in his political life from which he had fled, to moor his bark in more quiet waters. The remaining islands are Duck, Malaga, Cedar, Londoners, and Seavey's. The entire group consists almost wholly of granite and trap rock, with sufficient soil on some of the larger to afford pas turage and limited agricultural facilities. MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. 105 MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. PLEASING and frequent supplement to a White Moun tain tour is a trip to the ancient cities of Montreal and Quebec. Travelers from the southern and middle states, especially, embrace the opportunity, while so near, to pay a visit to the metropolis of Canada and the walled city of the north. The trip is one of great interest, and no one who has the time and means at his disposal should fail to make it. The route from the mountains to Montreal is quite direct, and the tourist has a choice of several points at which the journey north ward may be resumed. If he chances to be on the eastern side of the mountains, he may take the cars of the Grand Trunk Railway at Gorham, and proceed directly on by that route to Montreal. If on the western side, he may take the southward bound train of the B., C. & M. Road for Wells River, there connecting with the pop ular " Air Line," recently opened, via Newport, Vt, or he may proceed northward to Groveton Junction, alluded to on page 52, there connecting with the Grand Trunk. From Boston there are also four routes : The Grand Trunk, via Portland, the Central Vermont, via Concord, White River and St. Albans, or via Fitchburg, Bellows Falls and St. Albans, or the " Air Line," via Concord, Wells River, Newport and St. Johns. The latter route is becoming a great favorite with summer tourists, on account of the beauty of the scenery through which it lies, and the convenience with which it may be reached from the mountain region. Two through trains leave Boston daily, from the Lowell depot, equipped with all the conveniences and appliances for comfort and safety peculiar to first-class lines. Passing through the suburbs of Boston, up the valley of the Merrimack, and along the shores of the beautiful Winnipesaukee, the day train reaches Plymouth at dinner time, and the passengers have an opportunity to test the culinary resources of the celebrated Pemigewasset House, after which the train proceeds onward, crossing the Connecticut river at Woodsville to Wells River, and continuing on to Newport, stopping for supper at the Memphremagog House. From this point the route lies over the line of the Southeastern Railway to St. Johns, and a portion of the way skirts the shores of the beautiful Lake Memphremagog, passing through some of the finest scenery in the Dominion of Canada. The River St. Law- 106 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. rence is crossed by the famous Victoria Bridge, nearly two miles in length, one of the finest structures of its kind in the world. Lake Champlain. Tourists en route for Montreal by the Central Vermont line, some times make a diversion, and, leaving the main line at Essex Junc tion, pay a visit to Lake Champlain and Burlington. For beauty of situation this northern city is seldom equalled, and is scarcely surpassed by any in our country. It lies on the east shore of Burlington Bay, and occupies a gentle declivity descend ing toward the west, terminated by the lake, which, up to this point quite narrow, here expands into a fine sheet of water, nearly if not quite ten miles wide from the Vermont to the New York shore. Standing on the east declivity, say a mile from the lake and some 280 feet above its level, and looking on either hand you behold some of the most beautiful natural scenery to be found in America. Below you are the glittering waters of Champlain, broken here and there by lovely islands that lift their green heads above the waves at various points in this ten miles of lake that stretches out be tween these " shining shores." Before you are the Adirondack Mountains of New York, " all gleaming in purple and gold," be hind you are the Green Mountains of Vermont, clad in garments of equal yet different glory. On your left is Shelburne Bay, with its curving coasts. On your right hand your pleased eye follows the bending shore as it sweeps in faultless lines to " Rock Point." The drives are delightful in all directions leading out of Burling ton. Mallett's Bay, a beautiful sheet of water, full of excellent, fish, is only six miles distant, and is reached by a road that gives you a general view of the Winooski river, flowing through a stretch of charming country ; while the drive along the lake shore in Shel burne is equally attractive. Among the other points of interest is Green Mount Cemetery where lies buried Ethan Allen, "The Hero of Ti," whose grave is marked by a handsome monument. The hotel facilities are excellent. The Van Ness House Contains one hundred commodious and well-ventilated sleeping rooms, with private parlors and other modern conveniences. The house is the largest in Burlington, and ranks as one of the most convenient and thoroughly appointed houses in New England. The BURLINGTON AND LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 107 location, at the junction of St. Paul and Main streets, and situated upon the square, is elevated and prominent. A spacious promenade upon the roof is one of the great attrac tions of the house. The view from this elevation is remarkably ex tended, rich and charming in all its varied features. The city and its environs, its numerous manufactories, its immense lumber inter ests, the Green Mountains, the lake, the Adirondacks, combine to form an inimitable picture. Attached to the hotel is a large farm from which the table is supplied twice each day with fresh milk cream, vegetables, etc. A fine livery is connected with the house, and teams and drivers, thoroughly acquainted with all points of interest to the tourist in the vicinity, furnished promptly. Every effort will be made by the proprietors to give the visitors, not only a good " hotel " but a place where they may experience all the comforts of a home. The Van Ness House claims to be a first-class hotel, and will be so kept the year round. American Hotel. The above-named hotel has been thoroughly refitted, and is in all respects a first-class house. It contains 150 rooms, which are commodious and furnished in first class style ; can be secured singly or in suits. The hotel is located opposite city park, and is one of the most conveniently arranged hotels in Burlington. The offices, parlors and dining rooms are all large, and on the ground floor ; bath room on each floor supplied with warm and cold water. Railroad, steamboat, and telegraph offices in the house. The hotel is lighted by gas, and has every facility for the comfort and conve nience of guests. Free carriages to boats and cars. Good livery in connection with the house. Guests stopping at this hotel have the full benefit of city park concerts, which are given every pleas ant evening of summer. It is kept by H. H. Bishop, late of Fo- quet House, Plattsburgh, N. Y. The Champlain Transportation Co. With their lines of steamers, give an excellent opportunity for ex cursions on the beautiful lake to Fort Ticonderoga and interme diate points, connecting with trains for Saratoga, Lake George, and other pleasure resorts. This is a very pleasant link in the line of travel between Saratoga and the White Mountains, and tourists will do well to enjoy the beautiful sail on the lake as a part of the trip between the two points. Tickets can be had at the mountain ticket offices. Montreal tourists resume the main line of travel at Essex June- 108 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. tion, or proceed northward by the. lake to Rouse's Point, thence to St. Johns and Montreal. Arriving in Montreal, the first point to be settled is, where to stop. In the matter of hotels the tourist has a variety from which- to choose, -according to his taste and means. The Ottawa Hotel Has been leased by Mr. C. S. Browne, who has engaged the servi ces of Harry Andrews as manager. The whole establishment has been remodeled, and refurnished throughout with new and elegant furniture. A passenger elevator, electric bells, bath-rooms, and all the appurtenances of a first-class house, have been provided for the comfort and convenience of the guests. Its location, on St. James and Notre Dame Streets, with a public entrance on each, makes it accessible for tourists or business people. It is kept on the Euro pean plan, and the proprietor assures the public that while the charges will be moderate, its table will be of unexceptionable ex cellence. Coaches connect with all trains and boats, and will be found in waiting at depots and steamboat landings on arrival of all trains and steamers. Albion Hotel, One of the most capacious and best managed houses in the city, is finely situated on McGill street, one of the widest and pleas- antest thoroughfares in the city, at the head of which is Victoria ¦ Square, and at the foot the St. Lawrence River. The house has for twenty years been the favorite resort of American tourists, MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. 109 and it has constantly grown in public favor, with a corresponding extension of its facilities and accommodations. Other hotels present their claims to the public, which we have not space here to enumerate. The Attractions of Montreal, Especially in the season of travel, are sufficient in number, novelty and variety to render a visit to the place an event of great interest. The city itself is a curious compound of the ancient and modern. It was settled in 1642, on the site of the Indian town of " Hoche- laga," and while portions of the ancient town remain, in all their quaintness and singularity, the principal business part of the city is of modern style architecture, presenting a singular contrast to the older portions, and rendering the city an object of interest, especially to Americans, whose towns and cities present but little of the relics of antiquity. Montreal is situated on an island of that name in the St. Law rence River, at the head of ship navigation, being the headquarters of nine lines of steamships. It has a population of about 150,000, and is the commercial and financial metropolis of the Canadian Dominion. The island is about thirty-two miles long and ten miles wide, and is very fertile and productive, some of the finest gardens in Canada being situated back of the city. Beautiful views of the city may be had from Mount' Royal, or from the river as you come down from Lachine,*^ trip which every visitor will want to make, and which we may as well describe here. Presuming that you arrive at Montreal in the evening, you will see but little of the city, .and your first impression by daylight will be a pleasant one if made in the way we are about to describe. Taking the train for Lachine at 7 a. m., a short ride brings you to the railroad wharf, where you may take the market steamer down the river, enjoying the novel sensation of Running the Lachine Rapids, Affording a little excitement but incurring no real danger. As the boat approaches the city the view is magnificent. With the im mense Victoria Bridge spanning the river before you, the spires and towers of Montreal to the left and the settlements on the opposite shore, the picture is a beautiful one, and should not be missed by the visitor to Montreal, whatever else he may fail to do. The entire time occupied is only about two and a half hours, and round trip tickets may be had at the station for fifty cents. In making this trip you get a fine view of Victoria Bridge, as the boat passes, directly under it. This splendid structure |is 110 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. two miles in length, including the approaches, and is the property of the Grand Trunk Railway, having been built at a cost of $6,- 300,000, and was completed in i860, when it was formally opened by H. B. H. the Prince of Wales. The piers, twenty-four in num ber, are laid on the rocky bed of the river, and are of solid ma sonry, great strength being required to resist the immense pressure of floating ice in the spring. The bridge tube is of iron, bolted and riveted in a substantial manner, requiring ten thousand tons of iron in its construction. The centre of the bridge is sixty feet above the river. The next excursion, if the weather prove favorable, will be the Ride around Mount Royal. Hackmen, or carters, as they are called, are as numerous in Montreal as at Niagara' Falls, but, unlike the latter, are very rea sonable in their charges. Their neat one and two horse vehicles may be found at the hotels and public squares, and the drivers are generally very well posted in localities and objects of interest. Their services in the city are subject to a scale of prices, but if you go out of the city a bargain should be made before starting, to avoid any misunderstanding at settlement. The drive around the mountain is about nine miles in extent, and includes a fine view of the city and river from the mountain side, a visit to the Mt. Royal Cemetery, if you so choose, and a view of the Hotel Dieu, the largest building in the Dominion, used for a convent, hospital, and asylum for poor children. Other ob jects of interest will be pointed out to you by the driver, who may, perhaps, be loquacious enough to relate sundry legends in connec tion with them. The Places of Interest In the city proper are numerous. The public buildings and pal aces of trade are fine specimens of architecture, built mostly from the gray limestone which abounds on the island. Of these, the City Hall, Post Office, Custom House, Young Men's Christian As sociation Building, McGill College, Bonsecours Market, and the various church structures, are objects of interest, and well worthy of a visit. The French Cathedral of Notre Dame Is said to be the largest church building in America, accommodat ing 10,000 people. It is two hundred and sixty feet in length and one hundred and forty in breadth, with two massive towers rising to the height of two hundred and twenty feet. From the right MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. Ill tower a magnificent birds-eye view of the city and the river may be had. In the other tower there is a splendid chime of bells. The Gesu Church, Although not especially attractive externally, is an object of great interest on account of its beautiful frescoes and paintings. The business places of the city are well worthy of a visit, some of them rivaling the Broadway establishments of New York City. The Richelieu Steamers. If Quebec is to be included in your tour, you may reach it by rail, via Grand Trunk Railway, or by the popular line of steamers, plying between the two cities, and affording a fine opportunity to view portions of the St. Lawrence River. The splendid steamers, Montreal and Quebec leave the company's wharf every evening, except Sunday, for the trip Down the St. Lawrence, to Quebec. Sweeping past the fort on the island directly against the city, past the islands and the mouth of the Ottawa River below the city, the first stop is made at the town of Sorel or William Henry, which is situated at the confluence of Sorel or Richelieu river, forty-five miles from Montreal. Five miles further on, the river expands into a lake, about twenty-five miles in length by nine in width, and known as Lake St. Peter. Midway between the two cities, is the town of Three Rivers, one of the oldest in Canada. The River St. Maurice, which here flows into the St. Lawrence, is divided by islands into three channels, hence the name of the town. The view of Quebec as you approach it by the river, is impress ive. The fortifications, with their towers and battlements, frown upon you from the plains of Abraham and from the lower town, giving peculiar impressions to the inhabitants of unwalled cities, who view a fortified town for the first time. For hotel accommodations, during a longer or shorter stay in Quebec, the St. Louis Hotel offers excellent inducements. It is centrally located, on St. Louis Street, and has accommodations for five hundred guests. Our limited space forbids more than the mere mention of the places of interest in and around Quebec. The fortifications will attract the attention of all. The upper town is enclosed by frown ing walls, three miles in length, of hewn stone, mounting heavy cannon commanding the river. Five massive gates open upon 112 THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA. these walls, three of them communicating with the lower town, and two of them with the suburbs. The principal thoroughfares of the upper town are St. Louis and St. John Streets, while the main avenue of the lower town is St. Peter Street. The Citadel is situated about three hundred and fifty feet above the river, and covers some forty acres. It is one of the most re markable fortifications on the continent, being well nigh impreg nable, from its combination of natural and artificial resources. The view from the river wall of the citadel embraces a vast ex tent of country, and is peculiarly charming. Point Levi, directly across the river, is notable as the place where Arnold's handful of soldiers rendezvoused, preparatory to the attack on the city in 1775, which resulted in their defeat and capture. To the west the Plains of Abraham appear, memorable as the scene of the death of the brave Wolfe, just as his heroic attack' was crowned with victory. A granite shaft marks the spot where he fell. Down the river, the beautiful and fertile Isle of Orleans presents itself to view. This island is nineteen miles in length and five and a half in width. It may be visited from the city by crossing in the ferry boat, and affords beautiful drives and views of sur rounding scenery. The drives around Quebec are very fine, especially those in the immediate suburbs, as the country seats of wealthy citizens, with their fine grounds and luxuriant gardens, present a beautiful prospect. The Falls of Montmorenci. About eight miles from the city, the Montmorenci River empties itself into the St. Lawrence over an*abrupt precipice two hundred and fifty feet in height. The drive to this natural curiosity is a pleasant one, over a paved highway, through the villages of St. Roche and Beauport. The country through which you pass is peculiarly French, and you might easily imagine yourself on some other continent. You hear scarcely a word of English spoken, and the entire scene is so foreign as to give a charming- novelty to the trip. The volume of water in the river is not great, but as it goes over the bluff it spreads itself out in a thin sheet, breaking into foam as it descends, and presenting a picture of great beauty and delicacy. Chaudiere Falls, Nine miles above Quebec, on the opposite side, are one hundred and thirty feet in height, and the river is four hundred feet in width at the point of descent. MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. 113 Other objects of interest, such as Durham Terrace, the Govern or's Garden, with its monument, eiected to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, the Grand Battery, the Custom House, Ursuline Convent, English Cathedral and others of which our space forbids even a mention, will repay a visit if the time is at the disposal of the tourist. But whether you see much or little, the visit to Que bec will afford subjects of reminiscence for a lifetime. Returning by rail or by boat to Montreal, you have there a choice of routes for the homeward trip, which we may hope will be safely accomplished. And as the cares of life are once more taken up, and the avocations resumed which for the time were left behind, may renewed health and vigor, as the result of the summer jaunt, give zest to the performance of those duties, which will be sweet ened with the pleasant memories of the scenes which you have visited and the wonders and beauties of nature which you have viewed. 'mm Tip-Top House, Mt. Washington, in Winter.— See p. 49- CONTENTS. Albion Hotel 108 Alton Bay t 64 American House 52 American Hotel 107 Appledore House 102 Artists' Falls 81 Attractions of North Conway 76 Attractions of Montreal 109 Bald Mountain 61 Basin, The 63 Bellows Falls 89 Bethlehem 36 Boar's Head 100 Boston and Maine Railroad 64 Boston and New York Air Line 11 Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad. . . 18 Burlington, Vt 106 Cascades, The 57 Cathedral of Notre Dame 110 Centre Harbor 25, 68 Champlain Transportation Co 107 Chaudiere Falls 112 Copple Crown Mountain 66 Crawford House 70 Crystal Cascade 85 Diana's Baths 81 Dixville Notch 54 Down the St. Lawrence Ill Eagle Cliff 62 Eagle Hotel 18 Eastern Railroad 75 Echo Lake 62, 80 Emerald Pool 86 Fabyan House 38 Fall River Line 9 Falls of Montmorenci 112 Flume, The 56 Franconia Notch 55 Garnet Pools 86 Gate of the Notch 72 Georgianna Falls 58 Gesu Church Ill Gibbs' Falls 72 Glen House 85 Goodrich Falls 83 Grand Trunk Railway 62 Hampton Beach..... i , 99 Haseltine House 17 Intervale House 78 "Isles of Shoals 102 Jacob's Ladder 43 Kearsarge Mountain 90 Kiarsarge House 78 Kiarsarge Mountain 79 Lachine Rapids 109 Laconia, N. H 20 Lady of the Lake 23 Lake Champlain 106 Lake Massabesic 97 Lake View House 94 Lake Village, N. H 20 Lake "Winnipesaukee 23 Lancaster, N. H 50 Ledges and Cathedral 80 Livermore Falls 29 Lizzie Bourne Monument 45 Manchester, N. H 16 Massabesic House 98 Meredith Village 26 Monadnock Mountain 95 Moosilauk Mountain 31 Montreal and Quebec 105 Mount Crawford House S3 Mount Gardner House 33 Mount Lafayette 61 Mount Pemigewasset 58 Mount Pequaket 80 Mount Royal 110 Mount "Washington Carriage Road 86 Mount "Washington House 44 Mount "Washington Railway 40 Mount "Willard 73 Nancy's Brook and Bridge North Conway 76 Norwich Line 10 Novel Coasting 48 Observation Cars 82 Old Man of the Mountain 60 Ottawa Hotel 108 Owl's Head 31 Pemigewasset House 28 Pemigewasset Valley Stage Route 30,55 Pinkham Notch 84 Plymouth 27 Plymouth House 29 Pool, The 57 Portsmouth 77, 101 Profile House 58 Profile Lake 61 OONTENTH 115 Profile Mountain 61 Providence Line . . 7 Red Hill 25 Richelieu Steamers ........... Ill Routes from Boston 14 64 75 87 Routes from New York '..'..' 7 Rye Beach 100 Sawyer's Rock 82 Seaside Resorts " 99 Shirley Hill \\[\[[ 99 Silver Cascade, The 74 Star Island " .] 104 Steamer Daisy 98 Steamer Lady of tlie Lake 23 Steamer Lady "Woodsum 94 Stonington Line 8 Straw's Point 101 Summer Travel 5 Sunapee Lake ". 94 Sunrise on Mount "Washington 47 Thayer's Hotel 34 Thompson's Falls 86 Tilton, N. H 18 Tuekerman's Ravine 87 Twin Mountain House 37 TJncanoonuc Mountains 99 Union House ." , , 34 Van Ness House 106 Walker's Fall 63 "Walpole, N. H \\ 89 Warner and Kearsarge Mountain Hotel . . 92 Warner and Kearsarge Mountain Road. . 91 Washington House 73 Weirs Landing 20 White Mountain Express 13 White Mountain House 37 White Mountain Notch 68 Wild Ammonoosuc Falls 40 Willey House 73 Williams House 52 "Winter on Mount Washington 49 Wolfeborough eg Table of Altitudes. Mount Washington G.285 Mount Jefferson 5,700 Mount Adams 5,800 Mount Monroe 5,400 Mount Madison 5,400 Mount Clay 5,400 Mount Lafayette 5,000 Mount Franklin 4,900 Mount Pleasant 4,800 Moosilauk 4,113(1 Mount Clinton 4,200 Mount Jackson 4,100 Mount Webster 4,000 Mount Willard 2,575 Mount Willey 4,300 Mount Carter 5,000 Mount Moriah : 4,700 Mount Hayes 2,500 Mount Cannon, or Profile Mountain 3,500 Cherry Mountain 3,070 Pequaket, or Kiarsarge 3,367 Chocorua 3,358 Mount Prospect 2,968 Red Hill 2,502 Copple Crown Mount 2,100 Alpine House, Gorham 800 Bethlehem Village 1,450 Crawford House 1,920 Fabyan House 1,551 Flume House 1,431 Glen House 1,632 Profile House, Franconia Notch 1,974 Willey House, White Mountain Notch . . 1,335 Mount Resolution 3,400 Giant's Stairs 3,500 Marshfield (or Ammonoosuc Station) — Foot of Mountain Railway 2,615 Pinkham Notch (highest point) 2,018 Franconia Notch (highest point) .' 2,014 PORTLAND & OGDENSBURG ft B. siE-AJsonsr 1878. ? THREE TRAINS DAILY BETWEEN Portland and Fabyans. Leave fortou 7,15 a. m., 12.45 and 5.35 p, i. FOE NORTH CONWAY, GLEN HOUSE, CRAWFORD, SUMMIT MOUNT WASHINGTON, FABYANS, BETHLEHEM, ST. JOHNSBURY, MOUNT MANSFIELD, BURLING- TON, LAKE SEBAGO, LAKE MEMPHREMA GOG, LAKE CHAMPLAIN, SARATO- G'A, MONTREAL, OGDENSBURG, AND WESTERN POINTS, Connecting in Portland and North Conway with Steamers and Boston & Maine and Eastern Railroads from Boston. Returning, leave Fabyans 4.45 a. m., 9 a. m., 10.55 a. m., 2.25 p. si. for Glen Station, North Conway and Portland, making sure sure connection for Boston, New York, and points South and West; also, for all resorts on Eastern Coast. This Route, the only one passing through the grand scenery of the White Mountains, offers greater attractions than any other line to these famous resorts, and the tourist via Portland obtains in addition the fine ocean views and cool breezes of the sea shore. The excursion in observation cars through the Notch is an experience which every visitor at the Mountains desires to enjoy, and the numerous trains arranged for the present season offer ample opportunity to avail, at convenient hours, of this delightful trip. Parties leaving the Mountains for the South and West will find the facilities and accommodations offered by the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad and its connections, equal to any other route from the Mountains. Glen House passengers connect at Glen Station. Profile House passengers connect with through trains at Bethlehem. yQpFor full particulars, see time cards and circulars, to be obtained at all ticket offices on the line. C. H. FOYE, G. T. A. J. HAMILTON, Supt. OFFICES, PORTLAND, ME. THE Illustrated Christian Weekly, PRICE $2.50 A YEAR. PUBLISHED BY THE 150 NASSAU STREET, NEW YORK. A journal well adapted to the wants of the people, being, with its more than 400 pictures yearly, a most attractive and interest ing paper. It is the only illustrated, religious, undenominational weekly in the land ; able, instructive, and none more worthy to find a place in the family. Its reading matter is all good and elevating in character. The low price at which the paper is offered renders it the cheapest illustrated paper in the world. The Illustrated Christian Weekly is, as far as we know, the only illustrated religious paper published hereabouts. Its articles are diversified, interesting, and free from sectarian ism, and its pictures are excellent. — Brooklyn Eagle. The Illustrated Christian AVeekly is one of the very choicest of religious publications. Its illustrations are beautiful, and its reading matter is just such as should be in every family. — Southwestern Christian Advocate, New Orleans. It is a journal which we can most heartily commend to our readers, as an illustrated family paper worthy of its large and extending circulation. — Christian Mirror. The Illustrated Christian AVeekly is the handsomest and one of the most excellent of our religious newspapers. Its contents are undenominational. — United Presbyterian. We have more than once taken occasion to make favorable allusion to the Illustrated Christian AVeekly, the excellent family paper published by the American Tract Society. AA'e wish to say here that all we have ever said in its favor was well deserved, and we wish our readers to consider it repeated and reiterated now. — Roman Citizen. Send for sample copy. PHOTO -PLATE COMPANY, I. OE8TERREIC METl, Manager. Eelief Plates, for Letter Press Printing, in Hard Type Metal, For Newspaper, Catalogue and Book Illustrations, CHEAPER THAN WOOD CUTS. Direct Reproductions from Prists. Original Designs Fv rr.is':od. Send for Estim ate:. LTMOUTn HOUSE., PLYMOUTH, S, H. BUCHANAN & WILLIS, Proprietors. Guests and Baggage conveyed to and from Depot free of charge. Horses and Carriages to let at reasonable rates. Prices Si. SO per day. Special rates to boarders WELDEN HOUSE, BANK STREET, ST. .A.LIB.^IN'S, YT. THOMAS LA VENDER, Proprietor. Opens for transient and regular boarders on the first day of June. A healthy, pleasant location in the Village, in full view of Mount Washington, the houses on top of which can be distinctly seen with the naked eye, and with the aid of the glass belonging to the house the cars can be seen on their arrival and departure. Artists' Falls, Diana's Baths, Echo Lake, Cathedral and other attractions described in this book, and within convenient distances of this house. Our rooms are large and well ventilated ; table well sup- pied ; free coaches to and from the depot. Transient boarders $2 per day. For terms by the week, which will be moderate, address the subscribers, JAMES CIBSON & CO. HASELTINE HOUSE MANCHESTER, N. H. nil ill1 " ' l mk JM,:. ¦ ill This Hotel is centrally located, on Manchester Street, near Elm, and one block distant from the City Hall and Post Office, and a few steps only from Express and Telegraph office. The Horse Cars run within a few rods of the door, and first-class hacks connect with every train at the Passenger Station. The House is new, well furnished throughout, and supplied with all modern improvements. It is the acknowledged headquarters of the theatrical and public showmen now traveling, and also of the local and visiting Base Ball fraternities. The public will please observe that we offer reduced rates for transient or permanent patrons, and special rates lower than ever before. Good table and good accomodations guaranteed. Give us a trial. P. W. HASELTINE & CO. INTERVALE HOUSE, NORTH CONWAY, TV. II. wmsmmmmm USB! »i5 STEPHEN MXTJDGETT «fc SONS, Proprietors. TBBMS E.EASOKTABLS. Lake Champlain and Lake George. Great Pleasure Route. White Mountains to Saratoga, Niagara Falls, all Southern and Western Points. Steamers leave Burlington every week-day morning at 8.30. arriv ing at Fort Ticonderoga at 12 noon. Leave Fort Ticonderoga at 12.30 p. m., Lake George 3 30 o. m., Glen Fails 5.25, Saratoga 6.25, Troy 8, Albany 8.10 p. m., New York 6 a. m. All-rail train leaves Fort Ticonderoga at 1.15 p. m., arriving at Saratoga at 3.40 p. m., Troy 5, Albany 5.30. New York 9 30 p. m. Tickets and information at all Mountain. Ticket Offices, and vpon application to P. W. BARNEY, Supt. Burlington, Yt, July 1, 1S73. FOR TRF MOUNTAINS, mmMMM& f^ms, Lakes George and Champlain, Adirondachs, Mount Mansfield, Montreal, Quebec, Thousand Islands, Bapids of the St. Lawrence, Sagitenay River, Cacouna, Ha-Ha Lay, Shel don, Highgate, Alburgh, Clar endon, Middletown, and Lebanon Springs, Manchester, BURLINGTON, SAINT ALBANS, And the Summer Resorts of N9w Hampshire, Vermont, and Northern 1"9T York. New Routes § Greatly Reduced Rates for 78, The Central Vermont Railroad Lines. Round Trip Tickets issued from Hoston, via Boston, Lowell & Nashua, Con cord, Northern (N. H.), Fitchburg, and Cheshire Railroads. Also, front yen- York, via N. Y. C. and H. R. R. R., Day Line, Citizen's Line, and People's Line Steamers, N. Y., N. H. & H. R. R., Sound Line Steamers, Pennsylvania Railroad to Philadelphia, from there, via North Penn., Phila. & Reading, or Penn. R. R. to Niagara Falls, via Wat kins Glen and Lake Seneca, and thence via St. Lawrence River Rapids and Thousand Is lands {passing them by daylight). Tickets good from Toronto via Rail or Steamer, or alter nately by Rail or Steamer to Montreal, passing under, and in full view of, the Victoria Bridge. The old-established and popular line between New York and Montreal. "Wagner's New and Elegant Drawing-Room and Sleeping Cars on all Express Trains between the above points without change. Pullman's Parlor, Day, and Sleeping Cars run between Boston and Montreal, and Springfield and Montreal ; also, Drawing-Room Cab between New York and White Mountains without change. All trains equipped with Miller Platform-Coupler and Buffer, and Westinghouse Ajr- Brake, as well as with all the latest improvements insuring safety and comfort. Tourist and Excursion Tickets can be obtained at all the principal Stations and Ticket Offices, in all the leading Hotels and Ticket Offices in the White Mountains, New York- Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington ; also, in the chief cities of the South, West, Mid, die, and New England States, and at the Principal Offices of the Company, 417 BROADWAY, Cor. Canal Street, NEW YORK ; 322 Washington, Cor. Milk Street, Boston ; and 136 St. James Street, Montreal, where berths and seats in Drawing-Room and Sleeping Cars can be secured. Before selecting routes, call or send to any Agent for our book of Routes and Rates, the "SUMMER EXCURSIONIST," which will be given or sent free, by mail, postage paid. S. W. CUMMINGS, Gen. Pass. Agt., CHAS. A. BROWN, Traveling Agt. G. W. BENTLEY, Gen. Manager, J. W. IIOBART, Gen. Sitpt. &^FQ 3R&S LITTLETON, N. H. This first-class popular House is still owned and kept by the subscriber, whose experience as a hotel keeper enables him to make his house as pleasant a resort for summer tourists as can be found in the vicinity of the White Mountains. His house being nearly new, with large, high and airy rooms, lighted with gas throughout, newly furnished with modern furniture and adornments, and all the comforts and conveniences of a first- class hotel, including billiard-room, and located in the central part of the village, with delightful surroundings, it possesses that peculiarly home-like character so desirable to those who wish to sojourn for a time among the magnificent mountains and charming scenery of this " Switzerland of America." Few towns in New England, if any, possess greater natural attractions than Littleton, and from no point can so great a va riety of beautiful, romantic and magnificent views be obtained by a short and pleasant ride or walk, as from this Hotel. The cars arrive here at 5 o'clock in the evening, rendering it a convenient resting-place for the night, as all can just as well have a comfortable night's sleep as to be hurried to the hills, the through ticket being good for the next day. It is much better to wait until morning before going to the mountains, as the chance for obtaining good rooms at the mountain hotels is altogether better than at night. This is an important fact, and travelers should bear it in mind. In short, the subscriber, having the best of reasons for be- lievling that the reputation of his house stands upon a par with the first-class hotels in New England, i$ determined to spare neither money nor pains in sustaining that position. Free Coach to and from the cars for patrons of the House. The best of livery accommodutions to be had at all times. H. L. THAYER, Proprietor. Littleton, N. H., July, 1878. McGill and St. Paul Sts., MoaarasEMi C&.W&M&. Has, for more than twenty years, been the favorite resort of the general traveling public in the United States, as well as of Canada, when visiting Montreal on business or pleas ure. It is centrally . located on McGill Street, the great thoroughfare and commercial centre of the city, command ing a magnificent view of the River St. Lawrence, the Vic toria Bridge on the left, and a full view of Victoria Square and Mount Royal on the right. The Hotel is furnished throughout in a superior manner, and everything arranged with a view to the comfort of guests. As one of .the largest Hotels in the Dominion, having ample accommodation for 500 guests, while kept in first- class style, the charges will be moderate. The traveling community will consult their own interests by remembering the Albion Hotel, when visiting Montreal. STEARNS & MURRAY, Proprietors. THE NURSERY, A Monthly Magazine for Youngest Readers. The publication of The Nursery was begun in 1867. The work met a want which was then wholly unsupplied, and it was at once received with a high degree of public favor. Since theu it has gone on increasing, from, year to year, in circulation and reputa tion,— maintaining superiority over all imitators and rivals, — and it now holds a firmly established place among American periodicals, and is admitted to be the the best maga zine hi the world for the class of readers to whom, it is addressed. ITS ARTICLES, whether in prose or verse, are adapted with the greatest care to the capacities of children, and are, with very rare exceptions, wholly original. ITS ILLUSTRATIONS, which are given with great profuseness, are engraved in the highest style of art, and, in most cases, from designs made expressly for The Nursert, by the best American artists. Such as are not original, are reproductions of the Choicest Pictures to be found in foreisrn juvenile publications. A SONG SET TO MUSIC, by a skillful composer, and specially adapted to children's voices, is given in every number of the magazine. Altogether, its pages furnish just such a variety as is best fitted to the wants of chil dren from infancy up to the age of twelve years. In schools it is found to answer ad mirably as a First Reader; and in remote districts, where there are no schools, it takes the place of a teacher; for thousands of children have been taught to read by The Nur sery alone. Subscription Price (postage included) , $1.60; payable always in advance. 15 cts. a single number. A sample number and premium list will be sent for 10 cts. JOHN L. SHOREY, Publisher, 36 Urotnfield Street, JSoston, Mass. A National Standard. s 3000 Engravings. 1340 Pages Quarto. 10,000 Words and Meanings not in other Dictionaries. Four Pages Colored Plates. A whole Library in Itself. Invaluable in any Family and in any School. Published by G . & C. MJEMBIAM, Springfield, Mass. Warmly indorsed by Bancroft Motley, Fitz-Greene Halleck, N. P. Willis, Elihu Burritt, Rufus Choate, Smart, Prescott, George P. Marsh, H. Coleridge, John G. Saxe, Horace Mann, Daniel Webster, John G. Whittier, More than fifty College-Presidents, and the best American and European Scholars. Contains ONJE-JTIFTIX more matter than any other, the smaller type giving much more on a page. Contains 3000 Illustrations, nearly three times as many as any other [ft^~ LOOK jLT the three pictures of a Ship, on page 1751,— these alone illustrate the meanine of more than 100 words and terms far better than they can be defined in words.] More than SO OOO copies have been placed in the public schools of the United btates. Recommended by 34 State Superintendents of Schools, and more than SO College Presi dents Has about 10,000 words and meanings not in other Dictionaries. Embodies about' 100 years of literary labor, and is several years later than any other large Dictionary. The sale of Webster's Dictionaries is SO times as great as the sale of any other series of Dictionaries. "August 4, 1877. The Dictionary UBed in the Government Printing Office is Webster's Unabridged." Is it not rightly claimed that Webster is THE NATIONAL STANDARD I O T MONTREAL, CANADA. Mr. C. S. Browne begs to announce to his friends and the public gener ally that he has taken a lease of this long established and renowned Hotel. Last fall the owners of this hotel closed it for the purpose of making very extensive alterations in the building, and of re-furnishing it throughout. They have since that time, at the enormous expense of nearly one hundred thousand dollars, succeeded in placing the (new) Ottawa on a par with the leading Hotels of America. The rooms, halls, offices, and parlors have been altered, enlarged and improved; the light, ventilation, and sanitary qualities are now perfect, and are not excelled by any hotel on the continent. The house has been entirely furnished throughout with new and elegant fur niture of the Queen Anne and Eastlake pattern. There has also been placed in the hotel a magnificent passenger elevator, steam heating appara tus (heating the whole house), electric bells, elegant apartments with bath rooms en suite, and other modern improvements necessary for the comfort and convenience of its patrons. The Ottawa has three dining-rooms, a cafe, and ladies' and gents' dining-room, ladies' ordinary, and an elegant private dining-hall. Its location, either for the tourist or business people, is ac knowledged to be by far the most convenient in Montreal, situated on the fashionable St. James and Notre Dame Streets, with a public entrance on each, and private entrance for ladies. It is surrounded by our finest build ings, and is within three minutes walk of Notre Dame Cathedral, the great Banks, new Post-office, new City Hall, and Public Buildings, and almost im mediately opposite the beautiful Victoria Square. The Ottawa will here after be kept on the European plan. It is the only first-class European Hotel in the Dominion of Canada, and while its charges will be moderate, its table will be of unexceptionable excellence, and its management will en deavor to keep it up to the standard-, in all respects, of the great successful and aristocratic hotels on that system in the United States. Coaches will be found at the Railway Depots and Steamboat Landings on the arrival of all trains and steamers. C. S. BROWNE, Proprietor. Harry Andrews, Manager. WILLIAMS HOUSE, Elm Street, Lancaster, IT. H., S. F. LEIGHTON, - - Proprietor. * Free carriage to and from the depot to patrons of the house. Good livery stable connected with the house, under the direction of the proprietor. A Favorite Resort of Summer Travel. Prices to Suit the Times. LANCASTER, N. H., FRANCIS RICHARDSON & CO., Proprietors. PRICES REDUCED 10 $1.00 PER DAY. First-class livery stable connected. Free coach to depot for patrons of the house. Lancaster House, LANCASTER, N. H. A favorite summer resort. Persons afflicted with hay fever will find relief here. A large farm, owned by the proprietor, will supply fresh milk, butter, eggs, and vegetables. Good trout-fishing near by. Ex cellent livery connected with the house. 1E&2SS KHASIOTABE.E. LEWIS H. COLE, Proprietor. UNION HOUSE, LITTLETON, N. H., W. A. RICHARDSON, Proprietor. CENTRALLY LOCATED. Rates for Commercial Travellers Two Dollars per day. Carriage to and from depot free. A first-class livery connected with the house. THE MIRROR, MANCHESTER, N. H. The Manchester Daily Mirror was founded in 1850, and the Weekly Mirror in 1851, by Joseph C. Kmerson. In October, 1852, both papers were purchased by John B. Clarke, who has owned, edited, and published them ever Bince. As the Mirror grew in strength and influence, its owner purchased and his establishment absorbed the Daily American, the Weekly American, and the New Hampshire Journal of Agriculture, all of which are now comprised and published under the Mirhor headings. The Mirror and American and the Weekly Mirror and Farmer are the most successful journals in New Hampshire. From the start, money has been spent upon them with a free hand in every department, which, with liberal dealings with friends and patrons, has put thein far in advance of all rivals' and given them a circulation, influence, and advertising patronage which no other even claims. Manchester, New Hampshire, is the fifty-fifth city in population in the United States, according to the last census — larger than any two cities in New Hampshire. It is fifty-two miles from Boston, and is devoted to manufacturing. Its corporations employ nine thou sand persons, and have a monthly pay-roll of three hundred and eleven thousand dollars. They use every year twenty-six thousand and one hundred tons of coal, eight thousand cords of wood, and about thirty million feet of gas. The mills have about three hundred thousand spindles, and make one hundred and forty-three miles of cloth a day. The Man chester Locomotive Works can turn out fourteen locomotives a months, and fifty steam fire-engines a year. To make a paper worthy of such a city, and one which should find its way into nearly every family, and be authorized to speak for and to the substantial and intelligent citizens, has been the aim of the publisher of the Mirror, and that he has succeeded, the subscrip tion books and daily sales of the paper fully prove. The Daily Mirror and American is than an evening paper, issuing three editions each afternoon, and has a larger circulation any other two dailies in the State. The Weekly Mirror and Farmer is an eight-page sheet, of forty-eight columns, and is a general news and agricultural paper. Its first and second pages are devoted to farming interests, and are filled with live and readable matter, which gives it a welcome, and makes it authority in a large proportion of the farm-houses of New Hampshire and Vermont. The other six pages are devoted to news, editorials, selections, and advertisements, so written and arranged as to give timely and bold expression to the convictions and opinions of honest people, and to present a complete and reliable record of the world's work, wisdom, worry, and wickedness during each week. The paper owns no man as master, and s the slave of no sect or party. It speaks for its readers openly, freely, and without fear or favor. Its system of news gathering is nearly complete ; and in the department of State news, particularly, its numerous correspondents and reporters, and a free use of the telegraph, enable it to keep far in advance of its rivals. These features have introduced the Mirror, and make it a household word among all who are interested in New Hampshire news and have a liking for an independent and outspoken organ of public opinion. It reaches, in large clubs, nearly every town in the State, and many in Vermont and Maine, and has not only an aggregate circulation larger than any other paper in. the State but larger than any other one of its class published in New England, out of Boston. Its circulation is a natural and healthy one. It employs no agents to crowd it into places where it is not welcome, and is not sent to any man who has not paid for it. Its friends are such of their own volition, because it meets their wants and approves itself to their judgment. and they are friend who, when once they come, are sure to stay. The Mirror is by far the best advertising medium to be found in New Hampshire. Its rates are less than three- fourths of a cent a line for each thousand circulation. For terms, etc. , address, JOHN B. CLARKE, Manoheslcr, IN". H. For the Whiteuiountains. Boston, Concord, Montreal, WMte Mountains ani Mount Washington Railraai. THE GREAT AVENUE TO THE MOUNTAINS AND LAKES OE NEW HAMPSHIRE, THE ONLY ALL-RAIL ROUTE From Boston to the Summit of Mount Washington , the Direct Line to all the Points of Interest and Places of Resort throughout the Mountain and Lake Region of New Hampshire, Vermont and the Canadas. W CLOSE AND ALL-RAIL CONNECTIONS WITH NEW YORK, THE EAST AND WEST, m Through the extension of this line into the very heart of the Mountain region, the traveler and tourist is placed in direct and all-rail communication with all the famous Summer Resorts of the " Switzerland of America.'' Nearly all the Hotels are reached by this line without travel by stages, and it makes the nearest approach to the others where staging has been reduced to short and easy journeys. Passengers leaving New York by any of the various routes may reach any point in the mountains or even the summit of Mount Washington, early the next afternoon . No Change of Cars bstween Providsnce, N3W London, Worcester and Boston. AND THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. Trains leave Bostox at 8 a. m., connecting with all lines from New York, giving ample time for dinner at the PEMIGEWASSET HOUSE, PLYMOUTH, Reaching all points in the Mountains early in the afternoon. Also,_ leave Boston at 12 m., reaching all points in the Mountains the same evening. Elegant and Luxurious Drawing-room Cars on all Express Trains. All trains equipped with Air Brakes and Miller Platforms. Ticket* Sold and Baggage Checked through from Washington, Baltimore, Phil adelphia, New York and Boston, by all Routes. For Tickets and all information apply at Company's Office, 5 STATE STREET, BOSTON ; G. W. STORER, Ticket Agent. J. A. DODGE, Manager. W. E. BBACEETT, General Tioiet Agent, Plymouth, M. H. - V ': ===== 1878 k E 1878 EASTERN RAILROAD, THE FAVORITE SEASHORE ROUTE, With its numerous Branches, following the NEW ENGLAND COAST, is a STRING OF OCEAN PEARLS from NO OTHER RAILROAD IN THE UNITED STATES, Upon an equal length of line, threads so many bright Seacoast Towxs and Summer Resorts. The Equipment of the Eastern Railroad is unexcelled. Pullman's Celebrated Parlor Oars cn Day Trains. It is the Only Line running Pullman's Drawing-room Sleeping Cars on Night Trains, BETWEEN BOSTON AND BANGOR. It is the favorite route to reach all the various Beaches : — HAMPTON, R YE, OLD ORCHARD, {via Saco,) MANCHESTER B Y THE SEA, ISLES OF SHOALS, MOUNT DESERT, RANGE LE Y LAKES, And MOUNT KINEO HOUSE, on MOOSEHEAD LAKE. FOR THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, TWO DAILY TRAINS BETWEEN BOSTON AND FABYANS, Via North Coxway and through the Notch to the Crawford House, Fabyans, Profile House, Glen House, Bethlehem, Twin Mountain House, and last, but not least, GRAND OLD MOUNT WASHINGTON. For grandeur and sublimity of scenery this line is unsurpassed. Excursion tickets can be obtained at all of the principal railroad offices, east, west or south, and at the company's depot, on Causeway Street, Boston. For information, rates, securing special cars, etc., apply by telegraph or mail to A. P. ROCKWELL, B. F. PATRICK, President. Gen'l Pass, and Ticket Agt. ¦ YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 9002 08837 3791