nntfamnnr-in*-*,* <-•_! ».*-*i <£. NMftrWMW^iM.KItW YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 1946 VALUABLE HAND-BOOKS. ERRORS IN THE USE OF ENGLISH. By the late Wilmah B. Hodgson, LL. D., Professor of Political Economy in the University of Edinburgh. American revised edition. 12mo, cloth, $l.gO. "• This posthumous work of Dr. Hodgson deserves a hearty welcome, foi it is sure to do good service for the object it has in view— improved accuracy in the use ot the English language. . . . Perhaps its chief' use will be in veiy distinctly proving with what wonderful carelessness or incompetency the Enghsh language is generally written. For the examples of error here brought together are not picked from obscure or inferior writings. Among the grammatical sinners whose trespasses are hero recorded appear man? ot our best-known authors and publications."— The Academy. GRAMMAR WITHOUT A MASTER. THE ENGLISH GRAMMAR OF WILLIAM COBBETT. Carefully reyised and annotated by Alfbed Ayres. With Index. 18mo, cloth, extra, $1.00. "I know it well, and have read it with great admiration."— Kiohakd (xBaitt White. _"Cobbett's Grammar is probably the most readable grammar ever written. For the purposes of self-education it is unrivaled."— From the Editor's Preface. THE ORTHOEPIST : A Pronouncing Manual, containing about Three Thousand Five Hundred Words, including a Considerable Number of the Names of Foreign Authors, Artists, etc., that are often mispronounced. By Alfred Atres. 18mo, cloth, extra, $1.00. " It gives us pleasure to say that we think the author, in the treatment of this very difficult and intricate subject, English pronunciation, gives proof of not only an unusual degree of orthoepical knowledge, but also, for the most part, of rare judgment and taste." — Joseph Thomas, LL. D., in Literary World. THE VERBALIST : A Manual devoted to Brief Discussions of the Right and the Wrong Use of Words, and to some other matters of Interest to thosfe who would Speak and Write with Propriety, includ ing a Treatise on Punctuation. By Alfred Atkes. 18mo, cloth, extra, $1.00. " This is the best kind of an English grammar. I{ teaches the right use of our mother-tongue by giving instances of the wrong use of it, an x j '&. Mj^-.y ^ ~ ~-rfeiw /a ^fi» -.'mk y /\C> ~. The Coffee Plant. lima ranks next, and produces the finest variety of the article. It rivals the choicest Mocha brand. There is a great demand in foreign countries for Mexican coffee ; and doubtless the annual production will soon be doubled if not quadrupled. Sugar-cane (carta de azucar) is grown extensively in all but seven States of the Eepublic. The greatest amount of sugar comes from Morelos, and the State of Vera Cruz ranks second. Irrigation is necessary for its successful cul tivation in some States. Sugar-cane grows both in the AGRICULTURE. . 97 tierra caliente and tierra templada up to an elevation of 6,000 feet. In the latter, eighteen months are required for the crop to mature, while in the former the time varies from nine to twelve months. The sugar-cane of Mexico is of three kinds — viz., those of Castile, Havana, and Otaite. At the time of Humboldt's visit,* about 14,000,000 pounds of sugar were exported annually. In 1881 the amount did not exceed 500,000 pounds. Tobacco is indigenous to Mexico. Indeed, it derives its name from the town of Tobaco in Yucatan. The culture of it was formerly restricted by law to the vicinity of Ori zaba, f At present it grows chiefly in the States of Vera Cruz, Tabasco, Campeche, Yucatan, Oaxaca, Sinaloa, and Jalisco. ( Vide chapter on cigars and tobacco. ) Cocoa (cacao) is found in the States of Tabasco, Chiapas, Oaxaca, Guerrero, and Colima. The first-named State pro duces the largest amount, the culture of cocoa being the principal branch of its agricultural industry. Chiapas ranks second, and but little of this article grows in the remainder of the Eepublic. Cotton (algodon) is cultivated in about half the States. Vera Cruz produces the largest quantities, and Durango ranks next. The finest cotton comes from the Pacific coast States and from Vera Cruz. It is also grown extensively in the vicinity of the lagoon of Tlahualila (which is familiarly called the "laguna country"), and in Southern Chihuahua. According to Sefior Busto, an acre of land will yield about 2,000 pounds of cotton as an average. J It thrives up to an elevation of five thousand feet. In 1803 the annual exportation of cotton amounted to * 1803. f In 1800 two million pounds of tobacco grew in the districts of Ori zaba and Cordoba. % In the southern part of the United States, 950 pounds of cotton to the acre is a fair average. 98 GENERAL INFORMATION. 700,000 pounds. At present it is not exported, nor is it cul tivated in quite sufficient quantities for home consumption. In 1806 Mexican cotton-seeds were introduced into Mis sissippi by Walter Burling, Esq., and are supposed to have improved the character of the staple thus grown. Cocoanut Palm. Vanilla is produced in the States of Vera Cruz and Oaxaca. According to Humboldt, Europe received its en tire supply of this commodity from Mexico previous to 1812. Bananas grow luxuriantly in the tierra caliente, and the maguey, or aloe, is cultivated extensively on the table-land. It is said that a plantation of the latter pays better as an investment than any other kind of crop in Mexico. The maguey will grow in a soil that is almost barren. It ma tures in eight years in the States of Puebla and Mexico ; and in San Luis Potosi it becomes ripe in five years. This plant will not blossom in northern climes.* * There is a popular belief that the maguey in temperate latitudes will reach maturity once in a hundred years. Hence the name " century-plant." AGRICULTURE. 99 With the improved processes of tillage, including the use of modern implements, extensive tanks and irrigating ditches, all of which are likely to be introduced at an early day, the staple products of Mexico will of course be in creased many fold. The culture of sugar and tobacco is, and will doubtless continue to be, more profitable than that of the cereals. The cultivation of the tropical and semi-tropical fruits will also be carried on far more extensively than at present throughout the tierra caliente, and in the lower parts of the tierra templada. A recent correspondent of the Chicago Tribune describes the Mexican farmer as follows : " On the ranch or vil lage home of the ' greaser ' Mexican everything bears the stamp of negligence and shiftlessness. Their gaunt, sharp- nosed, long-legged, and tan-colored hogs share with their owners in the comforts of the family residence. No fences except brush surround their fields. Generally there are none. They raise just sufficient wheat, barley, beans, and chili (red peppers) to meet their absolute needs. They thrash their crops upon bare, smooth ground by driving flocks of goats over them and washing in the nearest stream. They often plow with a crooked stick, and the hoe is their scythe, sickle, and reaper. Even their hay is cut with a hoe. They as a rule live in villages and culti vate small fields upon their outskirts. Living as they do, and possessing a soil which under irrigation is wonderfully productive, they require but little ground to cultivate." Agricultural implements are admitted free of duty (vide p. 57). American reapers, mowers, plows, etc., have been introduced on the ranches of the northern and central part of the table-land. Time will, however, be required to induce the peons to abandon their rude ancestral tools that simply scratch the ground. Labor is abundant at three reales (37| cents) a day. It is hardly necessary to remark that 100 GENERAL INFORMATION. the land will be best developed by the immigration of skilled farmers from Europe and the United States. The following table, copied from Busto's Estadistica de la Reptiblica Mexicana, gives a list of the agricultural pro ductions of the Eepublic. It will be seen that the propor tion of maize is about four fifths of the total product, while that of wheat is but one twentieth. Oats are rarely culti vated, and rye but sparingly.* ¦ PEODUCTS. Chickling vetch (a kind of pea). Cotton Bene-seed Canary-seed Anise-seed Indigo Rice Sugar and molasses Cocoa Coffee Barley Cumin-seeds Peppers of all kinds Brown beans (frijoles) Peas Beans Hemp Ixtle (a kind of hemp) Lentils Maize (Indian corn) Potatoes Straw Tobacco Wheat Vanilla Sarsaparilla Total 14,452,954,787 11 27,831,012 65,391,072 6,710,3082,467,025 2,477,090 422,941 33,366,493 154,199,210 3,174,605 17,514,877 511,134,850 225,141 119,0 1,908 508,656.233 25,277,928 34,589,634 88,176,000 4,910,158 4,625,775 ,681,140,666 23,227,024 431,740,320 16,510,980 747,349,004 121,248 1,073,648 Value in Mexican dollars. 543,283 6,605,831 153,643 57,410 127,268 358,002 1,248,244 8,761,317 1,140,050 2,060,382 4,403,742 23,500 4,196,482 8,406,211 471,075 477,610 3,352,000 154,053 83,043 112,164,424 457,592 1,962,879 2,006,153 17,436.345 651,958 149,489 177,451,986 * Compared with the United States, the annual corn-crop of Mexico is one ninth of that of the sister Republic ; the wheat-crop is one forty-first, and the cotton-crop is but one forty-fifth. Maize being the principal arti cle of food, the failure of the crop causes great suffering, as the poorer classes must then subsist on unripe fruit, berries, and roots. MAPS AND SURVEYS. jq^ XXX. Maps and Surveys, Baron yon Humboldt was the first scientific traveler who made extensive astronomical observations and baro metric measurements in Mexico. He determined the lati tude and longitude, and the elevations of various cities and towns throughout the country. He also published charts and sketch-maps in his immortal work on New Spain. No complete topographical survey of Mexico has ever been made, and we need not say that it would cost far more than the National Government could afford to pay in the present state of the finances. The best atlas of Mexico has been compiled by Sefior A. Garcia Cubas, being entitled El Atlas metodico de la -Qeo- grafia de la Republica Mexicana. The Mexican National Eailway Company has published a large map, and Eand, McNally & Co., of Chicago, and Col ton, of New York, have issued pocket-maps, of the Ee public. Several excellent maps have been prepared in France and Germany. A good topographical map is published by J. L. Smith, of Philadelphia, Pa. A map of the heart of Mexico, including the mountains of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl, has been printed in New York, and is on sale in the shops of the Mexican capital. A complete map, on a large scale, will soon be a possi bility, considering the extensive surveys of the various rail roads throughout the country. The boundary-lines of the public lands have never been determined, and the lack of accurate surveys is sadly felt at the present time. Dur ing the Spanish domination the grants to individuals were practically unlimited, as the grantees took possession of 102 GENERAL INFORMATION. immense tracts of land without defining the metes and bounds. It is to be presumed that the Federal Government will authorize a general survey of their public lands at an early day. XXXI. Stock-Raising. Soon after the Spanish Conquest, horned cattle, horses, donkeys, sheep, and hogs were exported in large numbers to Mexico from the mother-country. At the present time more attention is devoted to rearing horses, mules, and cattle than to other animals. The Mexican horse is of small stature, but possesses great endurance, and resembles the Arabian breed. The mules in Mexico are inferior in size to those of the United States, but are said to be capable of doing more work than the latter. Donkeys were intro duced into New Spain by the priesthood, to take the place of the porters for carrying merchandise. (See chapter on labor and wages. ) Cattle and sheep may be raised advan tageously in most of the States of the Eepublic. The northern States, especially Tamaulipas, afford the best graz- ing-land. Several English companies have recently pur chased large stock-ranges in Tamaulipas, Nuevo-Leon, and Sonora. Excellent pasturage may be found in the valleys of Toluca and Orizaba. The former is noted for a superior breed of hogs. The greater part of the region that is used for grazing lies on the table-land. Most of the arable land in the tierra caliente and tierra templada is employed for agricultural purposes. The haciendas of El Salado and Cedres, in the central part of Mexico, are among the largest stock-ranches in the Eepublic. Artificial ponds and tanks for watering animals are common throughout the country. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 103 Cattle-raising bids fair to become an important industry in Northern Mexico at an early day. The mildness of the winters admits of the stock feeding on the pastures, and there is no danger of losing the herd by a snow-storm. The natives are good herdsmen. It may be remarked, however, that marauding bands of Indians occasionally make raids on the stock-ranches, involving great loss to the owners. Eanches are usually sold by the sitio, which is equivalent to 4,428 acres. It is said that several large cattle-ranches in Northern Mexico are for sale at pres ent. ( Vide next chapter.) XXXII. Weights and measures. The French metric system of weights and measures has been adopted in the Eepublic of Mexico, but in the rural districts the inhabitants have not done away with the old system (although it is no longer the legal one), of which we give a sketch. MEXICAN LAND-MEASURES. (Translated from the Ordenanzas de Tierras y Aguas.) The Mexican vara is the same as the vara of Castile, and is divided into thirds or foot-fourths, sixths, and thirty- sixth inches. It equals 33^ inches, American measure. Fifty Mexican varas make a measure called a cordel. A Mexican league contains 100 cordels, or 5,000 varas. The league is divided into halves and quarters. The half -league contains 2,500 varas. Sitio de Oanado Mayor (sitio, a farm for raising cattle). — The form of a sitio de estancia de ganado mayor is a square whose sides measure 5,000 Mexican varas. The area of a sitio is 25,000,000 square varas, or 4,428 acres. 104 GENERAL INFORMATION. Criadero de Ganado Mayor (place for breeding animals). — It is a square equal to a fourth part of a sitio de ganado mayor, whose sides measure 2,500 varas, and contains an area of 6,250,000 square varas. Sitio de Ganado Menor (farm for raising sheep or goats). — The form of a sitio de estancia de ganado menor is a square whose sides measure 3,333^ varas. Its area contains 11,111,111^ square varas. Criadero de Ganado Menor. — It is a square whose sides measure l,666f varas, and its area contains 2, 777, 777 J square varas. Caballeria de Tierra (33J acres American measure). — The form of a caballeria de tierra is a rectangular parallelo gram whose north or small side contains 552 varas, and whose greatest length is 1,104 varas. Its area contains 609,- 408 square varas. Media Caballeria de Tierra. — It is a square whose side measures 552 varas, and contains 304, 704 square varas. Suerte de Tierra (lot of ground — a chance). — It is the fourth part of a caballeria de tierra, and the same figure, whose long side measures 552 varas, and 276 in width. It contains 152,352 square varas. The Caballeria de Tierra is also divided into twelve fanegas of good seed-oats. The fanega is equal to three American bushels or a superficies of 8 "5624 American acres. Solar de Tierra (ground on which a house is built — town-lot). — Any parcel of land less than a suerte. Solar para Casas (for houses, mills, and markets). — It is a square of 50 varas — 2, 500 square varas. Fundo Legal (a piece of ground which is cultivated ; town site). — It is a tract of land whose form is a square of 1,200 varas on each side, and contains an area of 1,440,000 square varas. Porcion. — Porcion is a measure sometimes used. It is a tract of land 1,000 varas wide and 16,000 varas long. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 105 Labor (a cultivated field). — A square containing 1,000,- 000 square varas, or 177 acres. Texas Measure. — League and labor, 26,000,000 square varas, or 4,605 acres. To find the number of acres in a given number of square varas, divide by 5,646, fractions rejected. THE ENGLISH AND ERENCH SYSTEMS 01? WEIGHTS AND MEASURES COMPARED. The unit of the metric or French system of weights and measures is the metre, which is equal to 39 -37 inches. The Measures of Length are : 1 millimetre = -03937 inch. 1 centimetre = -3937 " 1 decimetre = 3-937 inches. 1 metre = 39-37 1 decametre = 32-809 feet. 1 hectometre = 19-8842 rods. 1 kilometre = -6213 mile. 1 myriametre = 6-2138 miles. Measures of Surface. 1 square centimetre = "155 square inch. 1 square decimetre = 15'5 square inches. 1 square metre or | _ 1 10-764 square feet. 1 centare f "I 1"96 square yard. 1 square decametre or | _ j 3-954 square rods. 1 are 1 1 ^±1 acre. 1 square hectometre, or 1 hectare = 2-471 acres. 1 square kilometre = '3861 square mile. Measures of Volume. 1 cubic centimetre = -061 cubic inch. 1 cubic decimetre or ) _ | -0353 I iitre j | 1-0567 liquid quart. 1 cubic metre, or 1 stere = 35-3165 cubic feet. 106 GENERAL INFORMATION. Measures of Capacity. The litre is the unit of capacity, both of liquid and of dry measures, and is equal in volume to one cubic deci metre. Dry measure. •61 cubic inch 610 cubic inches = •908 quart 9-081 quarts 2-837 bushels (28-37 bushels 1 1-308 cubic yard 1 m'yrialitre = 283-72 bushels 1 centilitre 1 decilitre 1 litre 1 decalitre 1 hectolitre 1 kilometre, or stere Liquid measure. = ¦338 fluid oz. = ¦845 gill. = 1-0567 quart. = 2-64175 gallons. = 26-4175 u 264-175 a =2,641-75 t* Measures of Weight. The gramme is the unit of weight, and is equal to a weight of a cubic centimetre of distilled water. 1 centigramme 1 decigramme -I 1 gramme 1 decagramme = 1 hectogramme = 1 kilogramme or J _ ( kilo f "= ) 1 myriagramme = 1 quintal 1 tonneau or ton f "{ ¦1543+ grain, troy. 1 5432+ " " 15-432+ grains, " •03527+ ounce, avoirdupois. •3527 + 3-5274+ ounces, " 2-6792 pounds, troy. 2-2046+ " avoirdupois. 22-046+ " 112 " " 2204-62+ " " 1-1023 ton. N. B. — Except the table of the metric system, the preceding part of this chapter is taken almost verbatim from Castro's Republic of Mexico. TABLE OE MEXICAN LAND-MEASURES. NAMES OP LAND-MEASTJKES IN SPANISH. 1 Hacienda 1 Sitio de ganado mayor. 1 Sitio de ganado menor 1 Criadero de, ganado mayor 1 Criadero de ganado menor. ....... 1 Fundo legal para puebla (town site). 1 Labor 1 Caballeria de tierra i Caballeria de tierra i Caballeria de tierra or suerte 1 Fanega de sembradura de maiz 1 Solar para casa, molino 6 venta. . . . Length in varas. Width in varas. 25,000 5,000 5,000 5,000 3,333$ 3,333$ 2,500 2,500 l,666f l,666f 1,200 1,200 1,000 1,000 1,104 552 552 552 652 276 276 184 50 60 Area or super ficies in square varas. 125,000,000 25,000,000 11,111,111 6,250,0002,777,777f 1,440,000 1,000,000 609,408304,704 152,352 50,784 2,500 Area in ca- ballerlas and decimals. 205,117 41,023 18,233 10,256 4,5582,363 1,6411,000 BOO 250 83rV 4 METRICAL SYSTEM. tares. 8,778 1,755 780 438 195 101 70 42 21 10 Ares. Cen- 11 25 7731 44 537688 6255 American acres. 22,143$ 4,428 1,968$1,107* 492f„- 256 A 177* 107,%% 26rW& 8fWA 1 Ik b fe! g 108 GENERAL INFORMATION. XXXIII. Labor and Wages, Slavery existed in Mexico before and after the Spanish Conquest, but it was abolished soon after the establishing of Mexican Independence. Formerly convicts worked in the cotton and woolen factories in company with free la borers ; and Humboldt, in his Political Essay on New Spain, has spoken of the injurious effect of this system on the latter class. Labor is now abundant throughout the Eepublic. In some of the larger cities the supply is greater than the demand. Skilled labor is rare among the natives, but they are capable of learning any trade. European labor has not thus far been largely introduced into Mexico. American negroes have been imported to a limited extent for the purpose of railway-construction. The peons or day-laborers may be divided principally into two great classes, i. e., those engaging in mining, and those who are employed on farms and ranches. The former class are much better workmen than the latter. They are not migratory in their habits, and will often remain in one mining district for a lifetime. The miners and millers work about seven hours daily. They are usually peaceable, and receive better wages than the agricultural peons. The latter are, as a rule, lazy and indolent. In the tierra fria and tierra templada they work from dajdight to sunset, with a siesta at noon, while in the tierra caliente the hours of labor are from 5 to 11 a. m., and from 3 to 6 P. m. Women do not generally work in the fields. A third class of workmen is employed in the factories and hotels, and by the railways. Male and female opera tives obtain employment in the former. A considerable number of the Indian population act LABOR AND WAGES. 109 as public porters on the highways. Men and women en gage in this occupation, and they use alpen-stocks while walking. An ordinary porter will carry a load of one Mexican Porters. hundred and fifty pounds for a distance of twenty miles daily. All kinds of merchandise are transported on the backs of porters.* During the eighteenth century the Spanish priests are said to have imported donkeys or burros in large num- * The author saw an Indian carrying a large sofa on the road from the City of Mexico to Cuernavaca. It was fastened to his body by means of ropes and straps passing across his breast and forehead, and extending under his arms. 110 GENERAL INFORMATION. bers to take the place of porters in carrying burdens (see p. 102). The laboring classes of Mexico are exceedingly jealous of the introduction of labor-saving machinery. They re gard it as an unwarranted means of preventing them from earning a living. Two recent events will serve to illustrate the antagonism of the peons to modern improvements. Soon after the adoption of the compressed air-brake on the railroads of the United States, the Mexican Eailway Company discharged several of their brakemen and intro duced this improved brake on their trains. The company's servants rebelled against this system, and stole the stop cocks from the air-pipes, thereby compelling their em ployers to reinstate them.* Eecently the owner of a large hacienda purchased an outfit of American agricultural implements. His peons saw in them an unjustifiable interference with their own meth ods of farming, and in the course of a few weeks the enlight ened hacendado discovered to his surprise that his stock of instruments had been destroyed. These facts are significant, but fortunately the intense feeling against new inventions and improved machines is confined to the lower classes, f The following table of wages will be found useful for reference. It is taken from Consul-General Strother's an nual report for 1882, the figures being approximately stated : Carpenters, per day $1 00 to $1 50 Blacksmiths, per day 1 00 to 2 50 Upholsterers, per day 75 to 1 25 Shoemakers, per day 75 to 1 50 Book-binders, per day 75 to 1 00 * These facts were related to the author by a station-master of the Mexican Central Railroad Company. f In constructing railroads, the contractors introduced the wheelbarrow among the peons. They carried it on their heads when filled with earth, and it was found that more work could be done with the gunny-ba" held on the shoulders. LABOR AND WAGES. HI Turners, per day g 75 to $1 00 Farriers, locksmiths, silversmiths (generally in cluded in blacksmithing), per day 75 to 1 00 Tinners, per day .... . 75 to 87$ Plumbers and gas-fitters, per day 75 to 100 Pattern-makers, molders (in foundries are paid by the piece), gilders, per day 75 to 1 25 Coach-makers, per day 1 50 to 2 00 Harness-makers and saddlers, per day 75 to 100 Stone-masons, stone-cutters, brick-layers (all un der the same heading), per day 75 to 1 25 House-painters, per day 75 to 125 Quarry-men (paid by the piece), common laborers {peons), per day 37£ to 50 Porters, or cargadores, a course, per day 12 J- to 50 Plasterers, plain and ornamental (per day) 1 25 to 1 50 Tailors (equivalent to per diem) 1 00 to 1 50 Hatters (equivalent to per diem) 87£ to 1 00 Cigar-makers (chiefly women), per diem 50 to 1 00 Seamstresses (per diem) 37£ to 50 Cotton spinners and weavers, woolen spinners and weavers (paid by the piece, equivalent to per diem) 1 00 Factory-hands (per day) 50 to 75 Engine-drivers (per day) 1 00 to 1 50 Stokers (per day). 87| to 1 50 Eailway conductors (per day) 1 00 Machinists (per day) 1 00 to 1 75 Printers (equivalent to per diem) 1 00 to 2 00 In the trades and occupations which may have been omitted in the above list, the current wages of journey men will be found to vary but little from the average given. Skilled workmen from abroad are now frequently imported at conventional prices much higher than the foregoing. N. B. — Foreigners intending to employ native laborers are strongly advised to put them under the control of a 112 GENERAL INFORMATION. "boss" who speaks the Spanish language, and who is familiar with their methods of work. The peons are amia ble, and will generally give satisfaction with proper man agement ; but they are exceedingly vindictive, and, if maltreated, will take vengeance on their oppressors at the first opportunity. XXXIV. Wines and Liquors. According to Prescott, the Aztecs manufactured pulque, and were in the habit of becoming intoxicated by its use. This is the case with their posterity, the Mexicans of the present day. The great national beverages are the various kinds of pulque, mescal, or tequila, and aguardiente, or brandy. Pulque is the fermented sap of the maguey plant (Agave Americana), which is extracted from the heart as follows : The stem of the plant is cut short, and a deep incision is made into the heart of it. After removing the surround ing leaves, the stalk is hollowed for several inches. The sap is gathered from this cavity two or three times daily, by means of an acocote. This instrument acts like a pi pette. It consists of a long gourd, to each end of which a piece of sharp horn is attached. The peon inserts one end into the liquid, and, placing the other in his mouth, ex tracts the sap by suction into the body of the gourd. The juice is emptied into a jar or skin, which is carried on the back, and then it is taken to the cellar and allowed to fer ment. A single plant of maguey will generally yield eight cuartillos, or one gallon, of sap in a day. The juice when extracted is termed agua miel, or honey-water. WINES AND LIQUORS. 113 Pulque is of a milk-white appearance, and resembles beer slightly in taste. Mescal is also prepared from the maguey. The leaves are pressed in a mill, and the juice that runs out is distilled. Tequila is similar in taste. It is distilled from a small spe- Pulgue Tlachiquero. cies of maguey called the zotol, which grows largely in Ja lisco, especially near the town of Tequila, whence its name. Both mescal and tequila are transparent liquids. Aguardiente is distilled chiefly from sugar-cane juice> but it is sometimes made from the juice of the grape. Be- 114 GENERAL INFORMATION. sides these liquors, there are numerous others that the stranger rarely hears of except in the rural districts, such as charape, chicha, jobo, peyote, tecuin, tepache, tuba, etc. Pulque is made principally in the States of Mexico, Hi dalgo, and Tlaxcala. The center of population being in this part of Mexico, accounts for the immense cultivation of the maguey in these adjoining States. Mescal comes for the most part from Jalisco, Sinaloa, Puebla, Hidalgo, and Michoacan. Aguardiente is made chiefly in the sugar-growing States of Vera Cruz, Morelos, Michoacan, Jalisco, Mexico, Oaxaca, Yucatan, and Coa huila. Pulque is usually transported from the haciendas in sheep-skins ; and mescal and aguardiente are carried in kegs. The liquors above mentioned, however, are not the only ones which Mexico produces. The soil of the country is adapted to the culture of all kinds of grapes. Eed and white wines are manufactured in comparatively small quantities, most of the native wines coming from the- States of Chihuahua and Coahuila. But nearly all the wine consumed in Central Mexico is imported from France and Spain by merchants in Vera Cruz. Eed wine is sold at from seventy-five cents to one dollar per quart bottle. A limited amount o'f beer is also produced. It is made chiefly in the States of Guanajuato, Jalisco, Vera Cruz, Puebla, and the Federal District. Much St. Louis (Mis souri) beer is imported, and sold at the high price of three reales per bottle in the northern part and four re ales in the southern part of Mexico. The cocoanut-wine comes for the most part from Michoacan, Yucatan, and Campeche. The following table, from Sefior Busto's Estadistica de la Republica Mexicana, shows the amount of wines and CIGARS AND TOBACCO. 115 liquors produced in the year 1879, together with their value : WINES AND LIQUORS. Brandy from grapes Brandy from sugar-cane (aguardiente). . Beer Mescal of Tequila Common mescal Pulque " tlachique " Fine pulque Common pulque White wine Red wine. Wines and various liquors Cocoanut-wine Total 526,349,903 Pounds. 1,169,467 42,498,737 22,128,999 19,835,20011,336,080 168,146,213 220,468,880 23,124,360 4,866,8597,765,3804,717,361 290,367 Dollars. 114,453 2,052,150 768,703 1,176,000 670,646 323,232 3,935,995 330,301 1,154,1961,508,475 941,021 34,341 12,909,513 XXXV. Cigars and Tobacco. Smoking is universal in the Eepublic. The Mexican smokes at the theatre, in all public conveyances, in the shops, during meal-time, and even in church. Cigarettes (cigarrillos) are consumed in about the same quantity as cigars (puros). Mexicans when about to smoke will always offer cigarettes to by-standers, whether they are acquainted or not, and the refusal to accept will generally give offense. The cigars made in the State of Vera Cruz are, perhaps, the finest in the country. They are very cheap. Choice cigars can be purchased at six pesos a hundred. The brand known as La Giralda is mild and very popular. Owing to the low price of tobacco, even the poorer classes smoke im moderately. The "weed" is used by men, women, and children. Early Spanish historians tell us that tobacco, called 116 GENERAL INFORMATION. pycietl by the ancient Mexicans, was known to them before the Conquest. They were in the habit of smoking pipes and taking snuff. The Government derives a large rev enue from the sale of tobacco. Mexico consumes about $18,000,000 worth of it annually. Tobacco is not exported in considerable quantities, but Mexican cigars are generally found in New York and a few of the larger cities of the United States. ( Vide chapter on agriculture for an account of the tobacco-culture.) XXXVI. Manufactures. When the Spaniards invaded Mexico, in 1519, they found the Aztecs possessed manufactures of considerable merit. The latter wore escaupil — a kind of armor made of quilted cotton, thick enough to be impenetrable to the light missiles of aboriginal warfare. The wealthier chiefs, how ever, sometimes donned .a cuirass made of thin plates of gold or silver, and wooden helmets. Soon after his arrival at Vera Cruz, Cortes sent cotton fabrics as presents to the Emperor Charles V. Historians tell us that cotton was perhaps grown, but certainly manu factured, in Mexico as early as in any other civilized coun try. The Spanish chroniclers of the time state, that the Aztecs made large webs as fine and delicate as those of Hol land ; that they wore cloths of different figures and colors, representing various animals and flowers ; that feathers oftentimes made a part of the texture ; that they manufac tured mantles, gowns, and bed-curtains ; and that a hand some cloth was also manufactured by taking the finest hair of the rabbit and spinning it into thread, after which it was interwoven with cotton. MANUFA CTURES. 117 The oldest cotton-factories are to be found in the city of Texcoco. The Aztecs were familiar with the art of reducing silver, lead, copper, and tin. The process was, however, easy and simple. They formed an alloy of the two last-named metals, and wrought tools of bronze. "With these imple ments they were able to cut not only metals, but, with the aid of fine sand, the hardest substances — as basalt, porphy ry, amethysts, and emeralds (vide Prescott's Conquest of Mexico, vol. i, pp. 138, 139). Besides making textile fabrics, working in metals, and hewing stone, the ancient Mexicans molded pottery on a large scale, and manufactured from the maguey (Agave Americana) a variety of articles, such as paper, thread, and cords from the leaves (which were also used to thatch roofs), pins and needles from the thorns, and pulque from the fer mented juice of the stem. Owing to the restrictions imposed by the Government, manufactures did not thrive during the rule of the viceroys. Still, the cotton and woolen factories were preserved, the metals were reduced from the ores, and soap, wax, sugar, pottery, pulque, and a few other articles were produced. The frequent revolutions and the instability of the Federal Government since the War of Independence have greatly retarded manufacturing industry. Fuel being exceedingly scarce, steam is even now rarely used in the factories and reducing-works ; but water-, mule-, and man-power are gen erally employed. In his long tour through the Eepublic in the winter and spring of 1883, the author noticed only one sugar-mill, one silver-reducing-mill, two cotton-factories, and a flour-mill, that were run by steam. In the latter case an aqueduct was in course of construction to conduct water to the mill as a motive power. On account of the configu ration of Mexico, there is abundant water-power just below the border of the tierra fria and in some parts of the great 118 GENERAL INFORMATION. plateau. Few things, comparatively, are manufactured at the present day. The establishment of industrial schools, however, in the cities of Guadalajara, Mexico, Puebla, and Orizaba, and recent industrial expositions in these cities, have given an impetus to domestic industry. The Her cules cotton-mill at Queretaro furnishes employment to 1,400 operatives (for description, see Section V). It is by far the largest mill in Mexico. A few others have been erected by French and German capitalists in the central part of the Eepublic. A company has recently been organized at Mapimi, in the State of Durango, to manufacture cotton goods at a place known as Ojo de Agua. The region affords fine water- power, and the factory will be started with forty looms. Small tread-mills are used extensively in making woolen cloths and blankets or zarapes. There are a few small silk-factories. Although the data are wanting to give an accurate list of all the manufactures of Mexico, together with their amount and value, we will take the following figures from Sefior Busto's great work on Mexican statistics : The num ber of factories in Mexico is 99 ; their value in machinery, $4,690,776 ; and in buildings, $4,816,999— making a total of $9,507,775. They contain 258,458 spindles and 9,214 looms. Their annual consumption of cotton amounts to 258,962 quintals,* and of wool to 59,240 arrobas. f The number of operatives employed is 12,346. The manufactures of the country may be concisely stated as follows : Cotton and woolen goods ; hats of straw and felt ; leather- work of every kind ; soap ; 1 wax, either in the form of candles, matches, or ex votos ; silk ; glass ; fur niture ; pottery ; marble-work ; rope ; palm-leaf work of all kinds, as matting, baskets, brooms, brushes, etc. ; a few * 29,003,744 pounds. f 1,481,000 pounds. i Much soap is made in Guadalajara, Puebla, and Mexico. NATIVE PRODUCTIONS. 119 kinds of paper ; * diligences and carts ; flour ; sugar ; choc olate ; indigo ; tiles ; and adobe, or sun-dried brick ; also wine and liquors, which are described in a separate chapter (vide p. 115). If. B. — None of these articles are exported to any ex tent. XXXVII. Native Productions. This chapter is designed to supplement the preceding one on manufactures. The Indians of to-day make various articles that were in common use among their Aztec an cestors. The plumaje, or feather-work, which is sold in the shops at the capital, resembles that made in Montezuma's time ; but, instead of being interwoven with a cotton web, the feathers are put together in various forms and attached to a card-board. Different varieties of artificial birds are constructed in this manner, the gorgeous colors of the parrot tribe and the delicate down of the humming-bird affording excellent material for a beautiful model. Some of these birds are of life-size, but most of them are on a reduced scale. The modern Mexicans do not make knives, razors, and serrated swords of itztli, or obsidian, but the tourist may find frag ments of this material on sale in the portales of the City of Mexico. Pottery is manufactured on a. large scale (vide preced ing chapter). It comes mostly from Guadalajara, Urua- pan, and Zintzuntlan. The Guadalajara ware is glazed and variegated in color. It is molded into all kinds of figures, many of which are artistic in design, and illustrate the national costumes. Aztec pottery is now very scarce. * There was no paper-factory up to 1803. 120 GENERAL INFORMATION. Numerous imitations are made, however, and travelers are cautioned against paying high prices for the spurious arti cle. Eag figures dressed in Mexican costumes are sold ex tensively by the Indians. All kinds of baskets composed of gayly-colored fragments of the palm-leaf are cheap and abundant. The zarapes are described in the chapter on costumes. Every variety of leather-ware is made in the country. Besides leathern clothing and foot-gear, bridles, saddles, whips, etc., are manufactured, which are often times of exquisite workmanship. The author saw a silver- mounted saddle belonging to a wealthy young hacendado that was valued at $1,000. It weighed forty pounds. The Mexican onyx, or tecali, is wrought into paper-weights and small vases, and even into mantel-pieces. The pale-green variety of this stone is very beautiful. Tourists are recom mended to purchase ornaments of tecali either at Puebla or at the capital. Choice embroidery (bordado) is made in Mexico. This work is done on velvet, silk, cloth, or muslin. Gold and silver thread is commonly used to embroider velvet and silk. The vestments of the priests are trimmed in this manner (vide chapter on the Church). Felt hats are usu ally adorned with silver thread. The most beautiful piece of native needle-work on exhibition is found on the throne of the Sala de Embajadores, at the National Palace in the capital. It consists of the Mexican coat-of-arms embroid ered with gold thread on dark velvet. Ladies wishing to purchase ornamental specimens of needle-work should have them made to order, as Mexican shopkeepers rarely have choice embroidery in stock. There is no fixed price for this class of work ; accordingly, stran gers are advised to bargain with the dealers. Owing to the small number of artists, paintings which delineate Mexican scenery or costumes are seldom offered for sale. Photographs of the places of interest, both in JEWELRY. 121 town and country, and also of the national dress, may be purchased in all the large cities. XXXVIII. Jewelry. Mexican jewelry has justly acquired a world-wide fame. When the Spaniards invaded the country, they acknowledged that the gold and silver-smiths of the Aztec Empire excelled those of their own land. The precious metals were used in casting vessels, some of which were said to have been so large that a man could not encircle them with his arms. Gems like opal, turquoise or chalchihuitl, ruby, agate, heliotrope, and chalcedony, were mounted in gold ; and artistic filigree-work in both gold and silver was made extensively. According to the accounts of the early Spanish chroni clers, the ornaments worn by Montezuma must have been equal in elegance to many of the crown-jewels of the impe rial families of Europe. At the present day the traveler will not meet with any large specimens of silver-ware, excepting the exquisite service of Maximilian, which is on exhibition in the mu seum at the national capital. The modern jewelers confine themselves principally to the manufacture of watches, chains, necklaces, brooches, pins, buttons, and other articles for personal adornment. The filigree-work in silver is worn extensively, but that of gold is seldom used. Chapetas, or silver studs for hats, are made in large quantities. They are in the form of stirrups, revolvers, ropes, horse-heads, bull-heads, spurs, and other figures. These chapetas are fastened on either side of the crown 122 GENERAL INFORMATION. (see chapter on costumes). Silver ornaments are sold at a low price, and they make handsome presents for tourists to purchase. The smallest and cheapest figures are ex votos in the shape of arms and legs. XXXIX. Theatres. Theatres may be found in all cities and towns of the country. The Mexican has inherited from the Spaniard his love for the drama. Many of the plays put upon the stage are translated from the French, the number of native dramatists being very small. Many traveling operatic and theatrical companies visit Mexico in the winter season. The opera-bouffe is given every year. Sunday night is the most popular time to go to the theatre. The prices of admission are lower than in the United States. A seat in the parquet, or patio, gener ally costs one peso. Smoking is allowed there. Ladies wishing to visit the theatres should procure tickets in a box or loja. They are plain edifices, with little interior decoration, and are commonly built with an ellip tical auditorium, which has several tiers of boxes ranged one directly above the other, reminding the traveler of La Scala at Milan. XL. Music. The Mexican people are very fond of music. There are excellent military bands in all the cities and garrisoned towns, where a pagoda is generally erected in the main plaza. They usually play three evenings in the week, MUSIC. 123 when the "swell" population turns out to enjoy the music. Travelers will find pianos all over the country, even in towns 500 miles distant from a seaport or railway termi nus. Violins and guitars are also used, the "latter being common among the Indians and mestizos. Wandering street musicians are rare. There is not much original Mexican music ; the national hymn, consisting of ten verses, being the best known. It was written by Bocanegra, and set to music by Nun6. The following is a metrical translation of the chorus and first two verses of the national hymn of Mexico : * Mexicans, baste to fight and bleed! Make ready sword and bridled steed ; Let the earth tremble to its core, Exulting in the cannon's roar. First Stanza. Ob, may the olive-branch of peace, Dear Fatherland, wave over thee ; For writ in heaven, by God's own hand, Is thine eternal destiny. And if the foe, with foot profane, Invade thy soil, O sacred land ! Each son of thine, a soldier born, The fierce invasions shall withstand. Second Stanza, Behold them plunged in bloody strife ; The love which animates each heart Impels them on to give their life, And e'er count death the better part. The former exploits of thy sons, O Fatherland, remember now, And once again immortal crowns Of laurel shall adorn thy brow. * Arranged for the author by E. E. J. 124 GENERAL INFORMATION. The singing in the churches is of a high order, and the choir-boys have exquisite alto voices. XLI. Dances. Mexicans are likewise passionately fond of dancing. Public balls (bailes) are frequent all over the Eepublic. In the capital they are held on Sunday nights, while in the smaller cities Saturday is the more common evening for them. Private balls are given by subscription in the prin cipal cities, to which tourists may obtain invitations through some banker or merchant. It is rare to have a tertulia, or evening-party, without dancing. XLII. Festivals. The festivals of Mexico were formerly of a religious character, but since 1856 they partake of a political nature. The following is a list of the principal days on which the national flag is displayed : February 5. Anniversary of the Constitution of 1857. February 22. Birth of Washington. March 14. Santo of the King of Italy. March 21. Birth of Benito Juarez. April 1. Opening of the session of Congress. May 5. Anniversary of the defeat of the French at Puebla. May 8. Birth of the Curate Hidalgo. May 15. Capture of Queretaro in 1867. May 31. Close of the session of Congress. * Santo means the anniversary of the birthday of the saint after whom the king is named. BULL-FIGHTS. 125 June 21. Capture of Mexico in 1867. June 30. Anniversary of the reformation in Guatemala. July 4. Independence of the United States. July 18. Anniversary of the death of Juarez. July 20. Independence of Colombia. July 28. Independence of Peru. July 30. Death of the Curate Hidalgo. September 15. Independence of Guatemala. September 16. Independence of Mexico. November 15. Santo of the King of the Belgians. XLIII. Bull-fights. The bull-fight, orfuncion de toros, is the nationalist of Mexico, and is one of the objectionable legacies of the Spaniards. Bull-fights take place on Sunday afternoons. The best performances are at Huisachal, a suburb of the capital. They are forbidden by law within the city limits. There are bull-rings (plazas de toros) in all cities and towns. Several of the larger cities have two. The rings in Mexico are commonly of wood,* and are built in the form of an amphitheatre. The seats are classified into those in the shade (sombra) and those in the sun (sol). The former are, of course, preferable, and cost more than the latter. Most of the bull-fighters are Mexicans, but at the present time (1883) a famous Spanish maestro, named El Chiclanero, is " starring " in the Eepublic. Bull-fighters, or toreadores, are agile men, of rather slender build, and do not usually exceed the medium height. They seldom possess great phys ical strength, but are expert jumpers. They are divided * The Spanish bull-rings are made of brick or stone. 126 GENERAL INFORMATION. into four classes : the espadas, or matadores, who kill the bull with a sword ; the banderilleros, who thrust barbed darts into his neck ; the picadores, who ride jaded Eosinante- hacks, and strike the animal with their lances; and the chulos and capas, who tease him with gayly-colored cloths, and assist the toreadores generally. The bull enters the arena at the sound of a trumpet, and is in turn attacked by the above-named classes of fighters. When the persecuted beast falls from exhaustion and loss of blood, he is killed by the cachetero, who thrusts a small dagger into the nape of the neck, just above the spinal column. The body is then dragged out of the ring by a trio of mules, amid the deafening yells of the crowd, the band playing at the time. The carcass is sold to the butcher. Unlike the funciones of Spain, the horses are protected with huge leather covers, and the tips of the bull's horns are sometimes sawed off. XLIV. Cock-fights. Cock-eights, or peleas de gallos, take place all over the country. The cock-pits are light pyramidal structures that are made of wood, with a thatched roof, and open at the Cock-fighters, or galleros, are frequently seen in the streets, each carrying a game-cock, with a string tied to its leg. Sunday afternoon is the favorite time for cock- fight.ing. Occasionally the inhabitants of rival towns will have a match, when representatives of each will send picked game cocks to engage in the fight. The event is announced, weeks beforehand, by gaudy bills posted on the sides of the public buildings. COSTUMES. 127 It may be remarked that cock-fights are likewise com mon in the Territory of New Mexico, although bull-fights are unknown. The most popular season for cock- and bull fighting is during Lent. XLV. Costumes. The upper classes, especially the Government officials, in Mexico, have recently discarded the national costume, and now wear the European dress. Black coats and silk hats are as commonly seen on the Plaza mayor of the City of Mexico as on Broadway or Fifth Avenue. There is a great variety of costumes, however, among the country gentlemen, and among both sexes in the lower classes. The Mexican hat, or sombrero, is the most promi nent part of the national dress. It is either of felt or straw, and has a very wide brim. When made of the for mer material, the color varies from light gray to brown and black. The crown is trimmed with a silver band, and the brim is oftentimes heavily embroidered with silver thread. The cords around the crown are either single, double, or quadruple, and small silver ornaments called chapetas are attached to both sides of it. Straw hats are generally pro vided with puffed bands of the same material, and occa sionally silver cords are worn on them. The peasantry wear plain straw hats and white cotton shirts and trousers. Cloaks of water-flags or palm-leaf strips are used by the Indians. They are impervious to the rain. Kzarape* or blanket woven either of woolen goods or of both wool and cotton, is worn in the early morning and in the evening. An infinite variety of patterns may be seen in these zarapes. Stripes of various shades of red, yellow, ^ * Sometimes spelled serape. 128 GENERAL INFORMATION. and brown, are the prevailing colors. Unlike the ponchos and mangas of Spain, the zarapes are thrown over the shoulder, instead of inserting the head through a hole or slit in the middle. However, some of the latter style of blankets are worn, especially by diligence-drivers and don key-boys. Stage-coachmen also wear leggings embossed with large nail-heads. Huaraches, or leathern sandals, fastened with straps over the instep and across the ball of the foot, take the place of boots or shoes among the lower classes. The usual style of dress among the peasant-women con sists of a white waist and skirt, with a blue scarf or shawl (rebozo). These simple colors remind the traveler of those adopted by Murillo in his paintings of the Virgin. Straw hats, like those worn by the poorer class of men, are donned by the women. The ladies in cities are generally dressed in plain black, and without a bonnet. They carry black silk parasols and black fans. The mantilla is now generally disused. Since 1881 young ladies, especially in the City of Mexico, have begun wearing hats of foreign make and dresses of various colors. * The hacendados and country gentlemen usually wear suits of black cloth, consisting of a short jacket with silver buttons, a waistcoat cut low, and pantaloons opening on the outside of the leg, with two rows of fancy silver but tons along the outer seam. A faja, or sash, which is com monly of a red color, is added to the costume, and the boots are made with high heels. This dress is worn in the tierra fria, and in the upper part of the tierra templada. In the tierra caliente the gentry wear plain white cotton suits with sombreros of felt or straw. In riding through * The American consul at the capital informed the author that, in 18S0, his wife was compelled to send to the United States for a bonnet, being unable to purchase one in the City of Mexico. LOTTERIES.— STORES. 129 the underbrush, chaparraleros, or loose leathern trousers, are worn over the ordinary pantaloons. Except in the large cities, swords or machetes are usually attached to the saddle-bow. XL VI. Lotteries. Following the example of Spain, lotteries were intro duced into Mexico many years ago, and are now an impor tant source of revenue. Lottery-tickets are sold in all the cities by men, women, and children. They are found on the por tales of the plazas, at the doors of hotels and cafes, and on the street corners. The Government receipts from lotteries were : In 1880-'81 $32,856. In 1881-'82 60,000. In 1882-'83 800,000. XLVII. Stores. According to Prescott, there were no shops in the Aztec Empire. Goods and wares were sold in the market place. Fairs were held at short intervals, and the mer chants were itinerant traders. Under the Spanish domina tion, the system was greatly modified. With the impor tation of merchandise from the mother-country came the gradual introduction of shops. They have undergone a great change since 1870. The shops usually have fanciful names, such as "The City of Paris," " The Azure Boot," "The Eed Gown," etc. While household ornaments, books, hardware, crockery, 130 GENERAL INFORMATION. leather-work, and a few other articles, were formerly on sale in considerable quantities, wearing-apparel suitable for Europeans was almost unknown. A new era of trade has dawned upon the Eepublic since the introduction of Ameri can railroad enterprise. The foreign resident need no longer send to New York, London, or Paris for luxuries and fashions. All kinds of clothing can now be made at short notice ; and preserves, canned goods, hams, wines, confectionery, and other articles which the European re quires, are found in the shops. The finest mercantile establishments are in the cities of Puebla and Mexico. French is spoken in many of them. The shops on the Calle de San Francisco, on the PlateroSj and on the Plaza mayor in the capital, are commodious, and contain a fine assortment of goods. Some of the clerks speak English. Strangers are charged exorbitant prices, so it is advisable to marchander with the salesmen. XLVIII. Pawnbroker-Shops. These institutions are controlled by the Government, and exist in all the cities of Mexico. They are termed monte de piedad, or montepio. There is a large monte de piedad in Puebla, and a cen tral office with several branches at the capital. The arti cles deposited as security for loans in the pawnbroker-shops are chiefly wearing-apparel, leather-work, jewelry, and fire-arms. The Government officers set a price on goods forfeited to the montepio. If they are not sold within a few weeks, a second price is fixed. Should the articles fail to find a purchaser at the reduced valuation, they are ap praised again. They are then kept for an indefinite period, till the third price is paid. THE CHURCH. 131 Travelers can occasionally find rare and valuable objects at these shops. The bills of the national monte de piedad circulate at par throughout the country. XLIX. The Church. Up to the year 1859 one third of all the real and per sonal property in Mexico was owned by the Church. Many of the finest buildings, as well as large tracts of land in the heart of the large cities, belonged to the clergy. The bishops' palaces at Puebla and at the capital con tain so many deeds, leases, etc., that they remind one of a county clerk's office, rather than the residence of a high ecclesiastical dignitary. All churches and convents in Mexico are built of the most costly materials and in the most substantial manner. Lofty towers are usually added to the churches, and their facades are oftentimes exquisitely carved. (See chapter on architecture.) The interior decorations, paintings, fur niture, and the services, are artistic in character. They were imported from Europe and transported by wagons for distances varying from one hundred to six hundred miles at great expense. The high altars as well as the stalls of the choir are beautifully carved, the former being usually gilded. Large organs are found in the cathedrals and principal churches, and occasionally the same building will have two of them on opposite sides of the choir. In the Morelia * and Guada lupe cathedrals, there are silver railings around the edge of the high altar and leading thence to the choir. Many of * The silver railing at Morelia was removed by the Liberal party during the Reformation. 132 GENERAL INFORMATION. the doors in the tabernacles are made of silver. The beau tiful tecali, or so-called Mexican onyx, is used extensively for altars and fonts. ( Vide chapter on Morelia, in Section IV.) Most of the churches are furnished with wooden settees. Prie-dieux are unknown. A large number of the churches are rapidly falling into decay, and many of them are now used for business pur poses, e. g., barracks, warehouses, mar ble- works, etc. Dur ing his extensive tour through Mexico, in the winter and spring of 1883, the author saw but a single instance of a church undergoing repairs, viz., on the plaza of Inda- parapeo in Michoacan. Several of the convents adjoining the churches are at present in ruins, while others have not been occupied for years, and some of them are now altered into hotels, as at Zacatecas and Monterey. These institutions are crowded together into the cities and towns, none being found in the rural districts as in Europe. ( Vide chapter on population. ) It is a universal custom to hang ex votos on the walls of the churches. They are either made of silver or wax, or consist of small paintings of the Virgin Mary. Various notices invoking pater-nosters, or aves, for the repose of the souls of departed friends, or soliciting alms for certain purposes, are printed on paper of several colors and posted on the main door of the churches. Beligious tracts, and ribbons giving the size of the head of some par ticular saint, are sold at the entrance to many of the cathe drals and chapels, especially during the lenten season. A typical church-scene in Mexico is a number of men clothed in white-cotton garments, with zarapes of variegat ed colors on their shoulders, with broad -brimmed straw hats in their hands, and wearing huaraches, or leathern sandals, kneeling on a stone floor in company with women and girls, who are dressed in calico and wear a black shawl over the head and shoulders. THE CHURCH. 133 The vestments worn by the priesthood while celebrating high mass are very costly, and consist of silken robes heav ily embroidered with gold and silver thread. When appear ing in the street the priests usually wear the ordinary cloth gown and cloak. It is, however, forbidden by law in some parts of the country, e. g., in the Federal District, for the clergy to walk the streets in the garb of their order. As regards the power of the Church in Mexico at the present day, it may be said that it is almost entirely lost, except in a few States like Michoacan. The politicians, however, make extravagant promises to the clergy, in the hope of securing their good graces in the elections. In the northern States the priesthood are becoming less influential from day to day. Flag-staffs have been erected on the facades of the prin cipal churches, from which the national colors are dis played. In the City of Mexico the ringing of bells is re stricted by statute to the period of three minutes at one time ; and the space of one half hour must elapse before they can be again sounded. The hold of the Catholic clergy on the Mexican people is confined principally to the laboring classes. It is a com mon saying that, when a peon earns two dollars, he gives one dollar and forty-five cents to the priest, spends fifty cents for pulque, and supports his family on the remainder. Among the more highly educated classes, the men are indifferent to religion, and oftentimes refuse to allow their wives and daughters to visit the confessional. They charge that the priest learns the pecuniary condition of the pater familias through the female members of the household. In 1882 the clergy in the Eepublic were estimated to num ber ten thousand. Notwithstanding the comparatively long period in which the Liberals have been in power in Mexico, the hostility between the Catholics and Protestants is as intense as ever. 134 GENERAL INFORMATION. The priests still threaten to excommunicate peons who work on buildings or farms owned by the Protestants. Since 1870 the Liberal Government has favored the establishment of Protestant churches throughout the country. During the administration of President Juarez a fine parish church was presented to the Protestants in the national capital. Their missions have since been founded in Puebla, Cuer- navaca, Zacatecas, Monterey, and many other cities. As recently as December, 1882, a collision took place between the Eoman Catholics and Protestants at Zacatecas. The former attempted to demolish a chapel which was owned by the latter, when the military came to the rescue and dispersed the rioters with bloodshed. The State gov ernments are generally disposed to protect the Protestants, and accordingly offer convict-labor to complete their houses of worship, when the peons can not be employed.* In Chihuahua the Americans now attend divine service at the residence of the pastor, the Eev. Mr. Eaton. N. B. — Foreigners, intending to engage in either min ing or farming in Mexico, are strongly advised to concili ate the padre, as he is usually the most influential person in small towns and villages. Considering the influence of the clergy on the lower classes, discourteous treatment of the priest may result in the refusal of the peons to work for the offending individual. Jurisprudence. The Eoman law prevails in Mexico, and a code, based upon the Code Napoleon, has been adopted. There is a written Constitution and a system of statutes * The chapel at Zacatecas was rebuilt by convicts. JURISPRUDENCE. 135 for the Eepublic. Each State has also its own laws, which are administered independently of those of the Federal Government. Trial by jury occurs in criminal cases only. Felonies are punished by long terms of imprisonment, while the penalty for misdemeanors is generally a fine ranging from twenty-five cents to several hundred dollars. The former amount is the equivalent of one day's wages for certain classes of laborers. Of late years, the authorities have ordered a great many brigands to be shot without a trial. In the State of Zaca tecas, two hundred persons, who were known to be bandits, are said to have been killed in a single year. Life and property are now as safe in Mexico as in the United States. Europeans residing in Mexico complain of the system of keeping prisoners in close confinement for a long period without a trial. The prisons are damp and unhealthy, and the fare is of the worst quality. The rules of practice for filing documents in the public offices are different from those of the United States. Ori ginal wills, deeds, mortgages, etc., must be recorded in blank books and deposited in the proper office. These are provided by the municipal government. None but inter ested persons can obtain copies of them. Deeds and other instruments executed as far back as the year 1540 are on file in the register's office of a few cities. All deeds, leases, contracts, etc., must be executed be fore a notary (escribano publico). Stamps must be affixed to all kinds of instruments, and a rubrica, or dash of the pen, must be added to a signature to make it legal. At present aliens can take real estate by deed and de vise, but they can not own land within twenty leagues of the frontier line, or less than fifteen miles from the coast, except by special permission of the Executive. 136 GENERAL INFORMATION. " Any foreigner who desires permission to own real estate within the above-mentioned limits, must address his petition to the Secre tary of Public Works at the City of Mexico, accompanied by a report from the government of the State or Territory where the property is situated. " The foreign proprietor of real estate forfeits bis rights of pos session under any of the following circumstances: " 1st. By being away from the Eepublic with his family for more than two years without permission from the General Govern ment. " 2d. By residing outside of the Republic, even though be has a representative residing upon his property or in the Republic. " 3d. By transferring or conveying said property by inherit ance or any other means to any person non-resident in the Re public. " Any foreign property-owner, wbo may fall into any of the three conditions above stipulated, is compelled to sell his real estate to a Mexican citizen, within two years from the date of his absence from the Republic; or, in case he fails to comply with this pre scription, the public authority will effect the sale of the property, depositing the proceeds of it to the order of the owner of the property. If said sale has been made by ' denouncement ' of the property, one tenth of the proceeds shall go to the person who made the ' denouncement ' and the balance to the absent for eigner. . . . Aliens who are members of a mining company that has either discovered or reopened any abandoned mine are exempt from these rules. " Foreigners who have acquired real estate from private owners, or the Government of Mexico, are subject to all kinds of taxation, and are bound to do military duty whenever called upon to protect the property they have acquired, or preserve public order and tran quillity in the place where they reside, and are bound to take part in the elucidation of all questions that may arise in regard to said property, according to the existing laws, and before the tribunals of Mexico, without ever appealing to their rights of foreign citizenship, or to any intervention from a foreign power." " Grantees of public lands are compelled to locate on their grant EDUCATION. 137 at least one inhabitant for every two hundred hectares,* who shall reside thereon without interruption during ten years, not being ab sent more than four months during each year. In failing to comply with this clause of the law, they will forfeit their right to the land, as well as the price paid for it. " Any person enabled to hold property by ' denouncement ' of public lands can not obtain more than 2,500 hectares,! by virtue of the law of limitation, until he has had possession of the land for ten years, and has complied with the other requisites of law, and those prescribed in the above clause." These extracts from the laws of Mexico are taken from Castro's Republic of Mexico, pp. 188-190. Lawyers who have taken a degree are termed licencia- dos. The leading counselors of the principal cities can gen erally speak English. Very few foreigners have thus far begun the practice of law in the Eepublic. Excepting the Supreme Court at the capital (Suprema Corte), the court rooms are open to the public. The judges sit from 9 to 12 A. m., and from 3 to 5 P. M. The jurisdiction of the inferior tribunals (juzgados) resembles that of the county courts of the United States. For further information on the laws of Mexico, con sult the following Spanish works : El Protocolo, El Co- digo, El Nuevo Escribano Instruido, Las Ordenanzas de Tierras y Aguas, and Las Ordenanzas de Mineria. The latter consists of mining laws. LI. Education. Unfortunately, a small portion only of the Mexi can people are able to read and write. The number of * 494J acres. t M^H acres. 138 GENERAL INFORMATION. illiterate persons can only be estimated, as there are no accurate census returns. We are of the opinion that it amounts to 6,500,000, or about two thirds of the entire population. Colleges (colegios) have been established in the principal cities for many years. There are schools of the arts, of law, of medicine, and of science. The Golegio de Mineria, or mining school, in the capital, was founded about the close of the last century. (See chapter on the City of Mexico in Part Second.) The traveler should not, however, be misled by this term "colegio." It is often used in the rural districts as synonymous with " school," very much as it used to be in the Western States of the Union. Soon after the French invasion, a common-school system similar to that of the United States was introduced into Mexico. The English language is now generally taught, and even many business men are studying it with a private tutor. A few industrial schools have been established in the larger cities. Mexican children are said to be very docile pupils, and in the hands of good instructors they learn readily. Among the wealthier families, it is common for parents to send their sons abroad to be educated, as to New York, London, or Paris ; and a few Mexican students may be found in the universities and mining schools of Germany. Young women and girls attend only the parochial schools of the country, and the higher education is unknown among them. The completion of the American trunk-lines of rail road may tend to increase the number of young men who go to the United States annually to "finish" their educa tion. The following table is taken from Castro's Republic of Mexico, p. 200. It shows the number of public schools in the States and the Territory of Lower California, and the cost of their maintenance for the year 1880 : NEWSPAPERS. 139 1. Aguascalientes 2. Gimpecoe 8. Coahuila 4. Colima 5. Chiapas 6. Chihuahua T. Durango 8. Guanajuato 9. Guerrero 10. Hidalgo. 11. Jalisco 12. Mexico 13. Michoacan 14. Morelos 15. Nuevo-Leon 16. Oaxaca IT. Puebla 18. Queretaro 19. San Luis Potosi 20. Sinaloa 21. Sonora 22. Tabasco 23. Tlaxcala 24. Tamaulipas 25. Vera Cruz 26. Yucatan 27. Zacatecas Ter'y of Lower California. Total. 58 43 70 18 787395 176 392 412 439 867 154 47 181234889 101183238 8043 176 60 580 163 311 17 26 14801712 40 30 145 2376 275181 8940 104 47 118 62 56422517 18 149 89 178 7957 100 85 90 118125321420 518 714 1,068 243 87 285281 1,007 163 105 65 194 60 729 202489 26 4,8003,600 5,2801.4522,1258,3508,102 10,75413,00615,81928,37641,321 7,0008,209 8.928 16,42050,320 6,271 9,4666,600 8.500 2,695 8.100 4,000 20,021 8,659 13,788 677 6,228 1,867 8,095 807,559 101,125 408,684 1,510,446 §! 1,200 700 2,1271,502 500928 1,8507,0451,7558,871 11,16010,245 8,200 5,8874,7328,296 15,000 2,922 8,6902,600 740525 1,550 o',9372,648 6,653 367 2 o- a a — P. 2 6,0004.3007,8572,9542,6254,278 4.452 17,79914,761 19,19089,58651,566 10,20013,59613,66019,716 65,320 9,193 18,176 9,2004,2403,2209,650 4,000 25,958 11,30220,391 1,044 :-a *10,000 15,00026,00018,00010,00028,478 20,00081,386 84.965 82,287 100,000167,216 52,75622,86668,00050,982 153,000 80,000 40,000 58,00020,00020,00020,000 10,000 218,985 50,000 72,000 10,000 LII. Newspapers. About sixty newspapers are published in Mexico. Most of them are printed in Spanish, and some are in French and in English. In the City of Mexico there are several daily papers in Spanish and two in French. The Monitor Re- publicano, which has an edition of about seven thousand copies, is said to have the largest circulation, while that of many of the other newspapers does not exceed five hundred. One semi- weekly English paper, The Two Re publics, and one weekly journal half in Spanish and half 140 GENERAL INFORMATION. in English, The Financier, are also published at the na tional capital. A few American newspapers may be found in Chihuahua. All of them devote a large space to adver tisements. Under the administration of Santa Anna began the subsidy of the press. Subventions are now given to papers that can not be published except at a loss. Formerly a special jury took cognizance of the offenses of the press, but a constitutional amendment passed in 1883 brings these offenses under the jurisdiction of the or dinary courts. Lin. Miscellaneous. American consuls or vice-consuls reside at the follow ing towns : Acapulco, Batopilas, Camargo, Campeche, Chihuahua, Guadalupe y Calvo, Guaymas, Guerrero, La Paz, Manzanillo, Matamoros, Mazatlan, Merida and Sisal, Mexico, Minatit- lan, Monterey, Musquiz, Nuevo Laredo, Paso del Norte, Piedras Negras, Progreso, Saltillo, San Bias, San Jos6, San Luis Potosi, Tampico, Tuxpan, Vera Cruz, and Za catecas. There are no English consuls, but the British Govern ment employs private agents. Doctors intending to practice in the Mexican Eepublic should learn at least one language besides Spanish, i. e., either French or German. Eeliable interpreters can be found in the principal cities only. The value of real estate is increasing in the large cities. The landlords are unwilling to sell unless at an exorbitant price ; accordingly, foreigners intending to engage in trade MISCELLANEOUS. 141 or manufacturing will do well to lease property for long terms, instead of purchasing it. In 1881 the value of city property was $169,684,376 52 And that of rural property was 181,873,994 04 Total $351,558,370 56 Americans are gradually introducing their inventions into Mexico. The Government, being anxious to establish and encourage home manufactures, has already issued many patents to citizens of the United States for new machines and improved methods of utilizing the various products of the soil of Mexico, which have hitherto been neglected for lack of knowledge and skillful treatment. The rules for soliciting patents are as follow : A patent of introduction is obtained by petition to the Government and act of Congress. The duration of the patent is limited by the concession granted by Congress. The usual period is ten years, and that of the im provement to a patent is six years. The Government will not inquire into the usefulness of any invention. Extensions are only given by Congress. The documents, which must be in Spanish, are : 1. Petition (solieitud) ; and 2. Description or explanation of the subject of the patent, together with designs or models in duplicate. The fees will be from ten to three hundred dollars. Upon issuing a patent, the Government will return the extra copy of the descriptions, designs, or models which accompany the petition. A copy of the law will be sent with every patent when issued. N. B. — Inventors can procure the names of responsible parties to intro duce their inventions by writing to any of the consuls mentioned at the head of this chapter. BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES. Capital may be advantageously invested in Mexico as follows : * 1. In cattle and sheep ranches. 2. In water companies for irrigation. 3. In the manufacture of paper. (There are but three or four kinds of paper made in Mexico. Nearly all the white paper is imported.) 4. In woolen and cotton mills. 142 GENERAL INFORMATION. 5. In the manufacture of hardware and machinery. (The duty on hardware is enormous.) 6. In the improvement of harbors and the construction of wharves. (Many of the harbors might, at a small ex pense, be rendered navigable for large vessels.) 7. In the organization of district-telegraph, telephone, and electric-light companies. (The former are unknown. There are a few of the others.) 8. In erecting hotels with all the modern conveniences. (First-class hotels are very rare. ) 9. In the culture of sugar, coffee, tobacco, cotton, and fruit. 10. In opening the numerous wells of petroleum, and in refining the article. (Two refineries have just been erected in the State of Vera Cruz. Petroleum is destined to be a great source of wealth to Mexico. In 1882, 1,300,- 000 gallons were exported from New York to Vera Cruz. The country is capable of exporting this commodity to Europe, besides producing enough for home consumption. ) We have omitted to name the mining of the various ores, as foreigners have invested largely in the Mexican mines. STANDARD BOOKS ON MEXICO. Clavigero, Storia Antica del Messico. Bernal Diaz, Historia de la Conquista. Sahagun, Historia Universal de Nueva Espana. Veytia, Historia Antigua de Mejico. Herrera, History of America. Solis, Conquest of Mexico. Kingsborough, Mexican Antiquities. Humboldt, Political Essay on New Spain. Humboldt, Atlas de la Nouvelle Espagne. Dupaix, Antiquites Mexicaines. Stephens, Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan. WEAT MEXICO NEEDS. 148 Ward, Mexico in 1887. Caldoron de la Baroa, Life in Moxioo, Presoott, Conquest of Moxioo. Ohovalior, Mexico, Ancient and Modern. Wilson, Mexico and its Religion. Wilson, History of the Conquest of Mexico. Tompsky, Mitla, Adventures in Mexico, etc Buxton, Adventures in Mexico. Bulloolc, Six Months in Mexico. Brantz-Mayor, Mexico, as it was and as it is. Haven, Our Next-Door Neighbor. Luons-Alaman, Historia de Mejico. Zamaoois, Historia de Mejioo. The New Amorioan Oyolopoedia, article on Mexico. LIV. What Moxioo needs. That Mexioo may assume an elevated rank in the fam ily of nations, two conditions aro neoessary : first, the educa tion and elevation of the mass of her population ; second, the development of her unequaled natural resources. Aooording to an eminent Amerioan statesman and di plomatist.* "of the ten millions of peoplo in Mexioo, fully throo quarters aro Indians, two thirds of whom oan not read, nor over had an anoestor that oould, who never slept in a bed or wore a stoolcing, and who are aooustomed to live at a less expense per day than a farm-horse would oost in any New England State." Comprising a territorial aroa sixteen times greater in extent than that of the State of New York, every vari ety of olimafcc, and, consequently, every vegetable produot * The Hon. John IMgolow. 144 GENERAL INFORMATION. which is found between the equator and the Arctic Circle, may be said to exist within her borders. Nor is this all. Besides having yielded one half of the existing stock of silver in the world, her mines are still believed to be the richest on the face of the globe. Her deposits of iron are unsurpassed in quantity and quality. To these are to be added every other metal which science has enumerated. How, then, shall the matchless vegetable and mineral resources of the Eepublic be developed ? That Northern enterprise, industry, and capital will become important fac tors in the solution of the problem there is little room to doubt. The introduction of the most approved agricul tural implements and processes, as well as of the most ap proved methods of treating the ores, will, of course, increase many fold the productions in both departments of labor. Yet, under existing circumstances, such a result would be neither useful nor profitable. Indeed, without the open ing of new fields of industry, and of new avenues for plac ing the surplus products in the markets of the world, an increase of production might even prove disastrous. In his recent elaborate publication entitled Railivays in Mexico, Sefior Eomero, the Mexican Minister at Washington, perti nently remarks : " A year of good crops in Mexico is a real calamity in many of the agricultural districts, as the pro duction in that year far exceeds the consumption of the immediate neighborhood ; and grain can not be sent to any distance on account of the high cost of transportation." Happily, the first and most essential step has already been taken to provide adequate means of transportation for all the surplus products of the country. The great lines of railway which are now rapidly approaching completion, together with those which have been begun under the auspices of General Grant, Mr. Gould, and other experi enced railroad managers, connecting, as they do, with the roads of this country, will become an integral part of a WHAT MEXICO NEEDS. 145 system which is infinitely the grandest and most extensive in the world. Supplemented as these great avenues of trade and travel will be by innumerable turnpikes, which will form so many lateral tributaries, and for the construc tion of which the face of the country affords exceptional facilities, their influence will be felt throughout the length and breadth of the land. But what Mexico needs, far more than the expansion of her physical resources, is the elevation of the toiling millions of her people. This result can only be achieved by their education, not alone in the lessons of the schools, but in the various branches of skilled industry and in social prog ress and enlightenment. Thus far almost the only step which has been taken toward the intellectual culture of the young has been to provide schools for the training of the children of Spanish blood. Surely it requires no argument, in our day, to prove that the facilities for acquiring at least the element ary branches of education ought to be placed within the reach of every child, without reference to color, creed, or lineage. This accomplished, the proper steps ought to be, and doubtless will be, taken to vest the ownership of the soil in its cultivators. The present land-tenure is what might reasonably be expected from the history of the country. Three centuries and a half ago the Spanish adventurers wrested it by force from the natives, and they and their descendants, almost without exception, have held it by the strong arm of power ever since. Of all the lessons of history, none is more emphatic than that the ownership of the soil by its cultivators is essential to a successful and profitable agriculture. The history of France before the outbreak of the Eevolution in the year 1789, the history of the British Islands, that of Ireland in particular, and our own experience as a nation 146 GENERAL INFORMATION. during the existence of negro slavery, are all full of instruc tion upon this point. It may, indeed, be doubted whether any other measure of public policy so imperatively demands a wise and liberal adjustment as the settlement of the land-tenure. If others than the Mexicans are to inhabit the country in the future, it requires no soothsayer to predict that this course will be found to be indispensable. One of the first fruits of the diversified industry spring ing from the new departure will be better wages, better food, better clothing, and better houses for the toiling millions. Following these will come the intelligent par ticipation of every adult male citizen in the administration of public affairs. That best of all guarantees for the pres ervation of civil liberty and social order — the co-operation of all classes of citizens for the protection of the rights of person and property — will come next in course. Eevolutions and brigandage, which have so long been the curse and op probrium of Mexico, will no longer be possible. A perma nent government " of the people, by the people, and for the people," will do away these and all kindred abuses. Thus will a new impetus be given to the cause of free govern ment throughout the world. PAET SECOND. CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. SECTION I. Mexico. HOW TO BEACH THE COUNTET. We give below the various routes from New York to Mexico, by steamship and railroad, and partly by steamer and partly by rail : Eoute I. — From New York via Havana, Progreso, Campeche, and Frontera, to Vera Cruz, by steamer, in about ten days. Eoute II. — From New York to New Orleans by rail in about sixty hours, thence steamer to Vera Cruz in about five days, calling at Bagdad, Tampico, and Tuxpan. Eoute III. — From New York to Laredo, Texas (on the Eio Grande), by rail in four days ; or to El Paso, Texas, via St. Louis, in about the same time. Route I. NEW TOEK TO VEEA CEUZ BY STEAMER. Fares, first class, $85 ; second class, $60. Leaving New York, the steamer reaches Havana in about four days. A stop of an entire day is generally made at Havana before proceeding to the Mexican ports. 148 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. The tourist will not only have time to see the city, but can also visit the wonderful caves of Matanzas and the valley of Yumuri, distant two hours by rail. (For a full description of Cuba and the West Indies, see Appletons' Hand-Boole of Winter Resorts.) From Havana the steamer proceeds to Progreso, in Yucatan,* arriving there in about thirty-six hours, and stopping about twenty-four hours. The traveler can now disembark in a small boat, and set foot on Mexican soil. Progreso is the seaport of the city of Merida, twenty-two miles distant. There is no hotel accommodation in Pro greso, but the American consul can assist the tourist in securing lodgings. The town is well laid out, and has straight and broad streets. Tourists will be interested in the scenes of the fruit and vegetable markets on the plaza. The houses are usually of one story, and are built of mor tar, with thatched roofs. Indians constitute the greater part of the population, which amounts to 1,900 inhabitants. Much hemp, rice, and maize are grown in Northern Yucatan. Upward of 90,000 bales of hemp are sent to the United States annually. Cacti and cocoa-palms are found in great abundance near Progreso. The tourist may have the opportunity of bath ing in the warm surf before leaving town. A railroad has recently f been completed to the city of Merida (fares, first class, $1 ; second class, 75 cents). This is the capital of the State of Yucatan, and has about 32,000 inhabitants. It is built on the site of the ancient Maya * Prescott states in the Conquest of Mexico, vol. i, p. 222, that Yucatan is a corruption of the word " tectecan," meaning, in the Maya language, / do not understand. This term was the reply which the Spanish navigators received upon landing on the coast, when they asked the natives the name of the country. Supposing it to be a direct answer to their question, the Spaniards called the newly discovered region Yucatan. f In 1881. MEXICO. 149 city of Tihoo. Few travelers visit Merida, and hence there is only one small hotel there (Hotel Bazar). Several lines of railway are being constructed from this city to points in the interior. The road toward Peto, on the south, is now (July, 1883) 20 miles long; that going to Valladolid, on the southeast, has been built for a distance of ten miles ; and seven miles of the line toward Calkini, on the south west, have been finished. A concession has just been granted to some residents of Merida to construct a railway from the capital to Sotuta, via Izamal. Many interesting ruins are found in the northern and central parts of Yucatan. Tourists intending to visit them should purchase horses and provisions at Merida, and obtain letters of introduction (cartas de presentacion) to the offi cials in the various towns. The most important ruined city is that of Uxmal, about 70 miles south of Merida. The cave of Sahachao is within a few miles of it. The remains of Chichen-Itza and Izamal lie about 50 miles southeast of the capital, and those of Mayapan are situated about 30 miles south of Merida. These places are com paratively easy of access. There are also interesting though less extensive ruins at Labna, Zayi, Xcoch, and Ahe, in Central and Southern Yucatan; but these localities have been rarely visited thus far by American or European trav elers. (See chapter on ruins for a general description of these ancient cities and towns. ) Humboldt states that Yucatan is an arid plateau, whose surface does not rise higher than 5,070 feet above the sea- level. The greater part of the State is ¦ covered with allu vial soil, and the climate is dry. Water is very scarce and valuable, there being only one river, the Rio Hondo. The rainy season lasts from April to October, during which time the reservoirs and tanks of the haciendas are filled for use in the remaining months of the year. 150 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. From Progreso the steamer takes a southwesterly course, and touches at Campeche, the capital of the State of the same name, and then proceeds to Frontera, in Tabasco. Cortes landed near the latter town on his voyage from Cuba to Mexico. Large quantities of logwood are exported from Fron tera. The tourist may leave the steamer at this point, and visit the famous ruins of Palenque, which are situated about 150 miles to the southeast. The journey, however, is a dif- A Tropical Jungle. ficult one, and a small boat must be hired to ascend the Usu- macinta Eiver. Guides, provisions, blankets, tents, medi cines, etc., should be taken from Frontera. Travelers may also proceed to San Juan Bautista, the capital of the State of Tabasco (population, 6,800), and visit Palenque by road. MEXICO. 151 Steamers do not touch at the ports of Campeche and Frontera on every trip. (See time-table for exact dates of arrival.) The vessels anchor about five miles from the shore, and only stop long enough to transfer passengers, mail, and cargo to a small tender, and then continue on the direct route to Vera Cruz, reaching this port in about ten days out from New York, including stoppages. Approaching Vera Cruz, the snow-clad peak of Orizaba may be distinctly seen at a distance of 50 miles on a clear day, and the Cofre de Perote, another snow-capped mount ain, is also visible. The Mexican coast is dangerous for navigators, on ac count of coral reefs. Just before reaching Vera Cruz, we pass an island on the south side of the town. It is the Isla de los Sacrificios, and is said to have been used by the Aztecs for sacrificing a youth on a certain day in every year. The other island directly opposite the city of Vera Cruz is San Juan de Uloa. It was so named by Grijalva. This islet is covered with a fort, which was begun by the Span iards in 1569, and finished in 1633. Hernando Cortes landed here on April 21, 1519. The fort is now used as a prison. Presently the steamer drops anchor. As soon as the health-officer has examined the vessel, and given the captain a clean bill of health, a large number of boats sur round her, and the owners rush on board, offering their services to the passengers who are about to go ashore. There is no fixed price for disembarking at Vera Cruz, and the traveler should make a bargain with a boatman before leaving the steamer, to pay him so much for taking his baggage ashore, and also to the custom-house and hotel. A boatman will take a single passenger for a Mexican dol lar, including the conveyance of his baggage to the hotel ; and, if a large party go in the same boat, an. arrangement at a reduced price can be made pro rata. 152 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. It is impossible to land at Vera Cruz during a norther, which blows at intervals from October to March. Tour ists may be compelled to remain several days on the steamship waiting for the waves to subside. Neither sail ing-vessels nor steamers can enter this port while the north er lasts. Vera Cruz has really no harbor at all, although the two islands already mentioned afford some protection to the shipping during a storm. Vessels at anchor gener ally put to sea during a severe norther. It has often been said that Cortes should have founded the city of Vera Cruz at Anton Lizardo, a point about fifteen miles to the south ward, which is the only good harbor on the Gulf of Mexico. The latter place is the terminus of a branch line of the Mexican Southern Eailroad, and is evidently destined to surpass Vera Cruz in commercial importance at an early day. (Compare Section VII.) A French company has recently entered into a con tract with the Mexican Government to build an extensive breakwater in the harbor of Vera Cruz, which will cost about 110,000,000. VERA. CRUZ. Population, 20,000. Hotels (Diligencias, Vera Cruzano, and de Mejico?) Cafes on the. Calle de la Yndependencia. Telegraph-Office on the same street. Post-Office on the Calle de Cinco de Mayo, about a quarter of a mile southwest of the main plaza. Places of Interest. — 1. Plaza de la Conslitucion. 2. Plaza del Mer- cado. 3. The Parochial Church, the tower of which should be ascended for a view of the city. 4. The Alameda. None of the buildings of Vera Cruz are worthy of a visit. The climate is usually hot and very unhealthy, the vomito, or yellow fever, being prevalent in the summer season, and even breaking out occasionally in the winter months. Tourists are advised to spend as little time in MEXICO. 153 this city as possible. Passengers on the steamers may remain on board until within an hour of the departure of trains for the interior. During a norther, however, the tem perature sinks to 65° Fahr., and then, of course, the stran ger is not incommoded by heat. Travelers can have their foreign money changed at the office of the agents of the principal lines of steamships, Messrs. R. C. Ritter & Co. The streets in the city of Vera Cruz are laid out at right angles, and are paved with cobble-stones, with a ken nel in the middle. Flocks of turkey-buzzards, called zopilotes, take the place of a street-cleaning department. These birds are pro tected by law, a fine of $5 being imposed for killing one of them. The houses are of either one or two stories, and are gen erally built of stone and mortar, and covered with red tiles. Many of them have patios, or court-yards, and railings painted green in front of the windows facing the street, reminding the traveler of Old Spain. A walk, or ride in the horse-cars, from the main plaza to the Alameda, should be taken by the stranger. The variety of colors and signs on the buildings, the picturesque cos tumes and musical language of the natives, and the tropi cal vegetation, will have the charm of novelty to the tourist coming from a northern clime. Vera Cruz, formerly the capital of the State of the same name, is situated on the 19th parallel of north latitude. •It was founded by the viceroy, Count Monterey, at the end of the sixteenth century, and was made a city by Philip III of Spain in 1615. The city is built on an arid plain. It was formerly called Villa Rica, or Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz — i. e., the rich city of the true cross. The original town of Vera Cruz founded by Cortes lies several miles north of the present city. Eeferring to this spot, the historian Prescott, in his 154 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Conquest of Mexico, vol. i, p. 229, says : " Little did the Conqueror imagine that the desolate beach on which he first planted his foot, was one day to be covered by a flour ishing city, the great mart of European and Oriental trade, the commercial capital of New Spain." At the present day about two thirds of Mexican com merce passes through the port of Vera Cruz. The imports 5 ¦:.. 3ag3ffi Jalapa. are increasing rapidly, those of 1882 being nearly fifty per cent greater than those of 1881. An excursion may be made to Jalapa, sixty miles dis tant, by tramway. It is said that the railroad between this town and Vera Cruz will be completed on August 1, 1886. Jalapa has a population of 12,400, and an elevation of 4,335 feet. (Hotels, Nacional and Vera Cruzano.) The MEXICO. 155 town is beautifully situated at the foot of the Macuil- tepete Mountain. The well-known Cofre de Perote, 13,552 feet high, according to Humboldt, is within a day's jour ney. There are no buildings in Jalapa of special interest to the tourist except the old convent of San Francisco. Many of the merchants of Vera Cruz have their country- houses at Jalapa. The climate is cool, although damp, for the greater part of the year. The soil is very fertile, and coffee, tobacco, vanilla, cotton, maize, and jalap are culti vated extensively. The town derives its name from the latter plant. Travelers may visit the ruins of Papantla, which lie about fifty miles north of Jalapa. Diligences run as far as Tusintlan; thence one must go on horseback. The teocalli lies about six miles from the town of Papantla, which contains a small hotel. Dr. Autrey, an Ameri can physician, can give the tourist information about the country. Horses, blankets, and provisions should be procured for this journey. (See chapter on ruins for de scription. ) There is another teocalli at Tusapan, 45 miles west of Papantla. The village of Misantla, which is situated 30 miles northeast of Jalapa, contains a small pyramid. An Aztec temple may also be found at Mapilca, on the Rio Tecolutla. If the tourist has reached Vera . Cruz by the northern route, he may make an excursion to the famous ruins of Palenque, by taking a steamer down the coast to Mina- titlan on the Goatzacoalcos Eiver, and thence proceed by road via San Cristobal ; or he may go directly to the mouth of the Rio Grijalva, ascend the river to San Juan Bau tista, and then travel by horseback to Palenque via Macus- pan. This trip is somewhat difficult, but the traveler will be well repaid by visiting the ruins, which lie about eight 156 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. miles from the town of Palenque. (For description of the buildings, see chapter on ruins.) Tourists should procure letters of introduction to the Government officials in the country lying between the coast and Palenque. There are no hotel accommodations, and the traveler will be obliged to pass the nights in Mexican huts, where he may always expect courteous treatment. Tourists are recommended to provide themselves with sufficient provisions, tents, camp-bedsteads, mosquito-net ting, and medicines. Extreme caution should be taken to •avoid the numerous insects as much as possible. The jun gle abounds with moniquiles, jiggers, ticks, red ants, etc. The moniquiles burrow under the skin, causing great suf fering. Should the stranger be attacked by these peculiar insects, he should employ the common remedy of pasting a leaf over the bite, which causes the insect to come to the surface, when it may be extracted. The natives will point out the peculiar kind of leaf to be used. Route II. FROM NEW YORK TO NEW ORLEANS BY RAIL, THENCE BY STEAMER TO VERA CRUZ. Pare to New Orleans, $38. Fares from New Orleans to Vera Cruz — first class, $50 ; second class, $35. (For description of New Orleans, see Appletons' General Guide to the United States, or Hand-Booh of Winter Re sorts. ) Leaving New Orleans, the steamer descends the Missis sippi Eiver for about one hundred and twenty-five miles, and, entering the Gulf of Mexico by the South Pass, takes its course toward Bagdad, the port of Matamoros. No land is seen till the vessel approaches within a few miles of the latter town. We drop anchor about five miles from the shore, and a tender comes out to take off passengers, cargo, MEXICO. 157 and the mails. Matamoros, in the State of Tamaulipas, is a port of entry, and lies on the south bank of the Rio Grande, opposite Brownsville in Texas, and about thirty miles from the mouth of the river. The population is about 12,000. A railroad is in progress toward the city of Monterey. Another is projected southward to Tampico. (See Section XII.) Leaving Bagdad, we sail southward, keeping out of sight of land almost all the way to Tampico. On reaching the latter port the passengers, freight, and mail are trans ferred to a small sail-boat and carried over the bar at the mouth of the Rio Tampico to the town of the same name about nine miles distant. There is a small hotel at Tam pico, and the population numbers 7,000. Ten miles to the northward is the Rio Pdnuco, famous in the history of New Spain as being the terminus of Gri- jalva's voyage from Cuba along the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, and also noted as the spot where the remnant of De Soto's band of explorers landed in their unfortunate voyage southward from the mouth of the Mississippi. The Rio Pdnuco is about one thousand feet wide, and is said to be navigable for a distance of twenty miles from its mouth. Small steamers connect Tampico with stage-coaches for San Luis Potosi via Ciudad del Maiz. A branch of the Mexican Central Eailway is being con structed from Tampico toward the city of San Luis Po tosi. (For description, see Section V.) From Tampico the steamship proceeds to Tuxpan, where passengers, freight, and mails are landed by means of a small sailing-vessel. The town lies nine miles above the mouth of the Tuxpan Eiver, and has about 8,000 inhabit ants. This river is navigable for about thirty miles, but there is only six feet of water on the bar at high tide. No hotel accommodations are to be had in Tuxpan. 158 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Papantla may be reached in two days on horseback. (See p. 46.) Valuable petroleum-wells are found in the vicinity, and two American companies have already erected works to refine the oil. * The petroleum occurs chiefly in the State of Vera Cruz, between the Pdnuco and Tuxpan Eivers. The wells are mostly near the coast, at Chapapote, Santa Teresa, Juan Felipe, Escondida, Sepultura, Carribajal, Monte Grande, Paso Grande, and on the borders of the Laguna de Tamiahua. There are submerged stone rains in this lagoon. A railroad from this port toward the City of Mexico is projected, but it will probably be several years before the work of construction is finished. It should be borne in mind that passengers can disem bark at Bagdad, Tampico, and Tuxpan in good weather only. During severe northers they are taken to Vera Cruz. Route III. FROM NEW YORK TO LAREDO, TEXAS, EITHER VIA ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, OR NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA ; OR TO EL PASO, TEXAS, EITHER VIA TEXAS AND PACIFIC RAIL WAY, OR ATCHISON, TOPEKA AND SANTA FE RAILROAD. Fares from New York to Laredo, $69.15 unlimited, and $58.80 limited ; and from New York to El Paso, $74.60 unlimited, and $64.85 limited. (For description of these routes from New York south ward, see Appletons' General Guide to the United States.) Sections IV and V of Part Second describe respectively the routes from Laredo and El Paso to the interior of Mexico. * The Vera Cruz Oil Company was organized at Boston in 1881. Mr. Thomas Nickerson, Hon. B. F. Butler, and others, are shareholders. A well has been drilled to a depth of 372 feet, and filled with a five-inch casing. Experts say that this oil is very promising, and that there is only eight per cent waste. Land is cheap, the rate of taxation is low, and there is a duty of 32 cents a gallon on imported petroleum. MEXICO. 159 Tourists visiting Mexico from San Francisco, Califor nia, by rail, should take the Southern Pacific Eailroad to Benson, Arizona, 1,024 miles distant, and proceed to Guay- mas, or other points on the west coast ; or go directly to El Paso, a distance of 1,286 miles, and thence travel into the interior. IB' **¦ Ii 1 IHHh m m m z-. Elf -Ui i--.- HP1 ' - - ' 3f* «¦!' I ' " •¦ - ' ' -,-sv |, v ~ >*'/;' Canon. SECTION II. The Mexican Railway Company (Ferrocarril Mexicano). FROM VERA CRUZ TO MEXICO. 263 J miles, or 424 kilometres. Fares, first class, $16 ; second class, $12.50 ; third class, $7.25* Time, 14i hours. This route will be described as follows : 1. From Vera Cruz to Orizaba. 2. From Orizaba to Esperanza. 3. From Esperanza to Puebla via Apizaco. 4. From Puebla to the City of Mexico. 1. From Vera Cruz to Orizaba, 82 miles. The tourist is advised not to proceed directly to the lofty table-land, but to remain a few days at some inter mediate point, e. g., at Cordoba or Orizaba, in order to become accustomed to the rarefied air. The latter city is preferable as regards hotel accommodations, and it presents besides some objects of interest to the sight-seer. There is only one through passenger-train daily, which at present (1884) starts at 6 A. m. Leaving the railway-station, which is six and one fifth feet above the Gulf of Mexico, the road traverses a broad plain, which is barren near the city of Vera Cruz. The tourist soon encounters a dense growth of cactus and chaparral, with a few palms interspersed. A branch road leaves the main track about three miles from Vera Cruz, and runs to Medellin, six miles distant. * The diligence fare from Vera Cruz to Mexico used to be $50. THE MEXICAN RAILWAY COMPANY. 161 In the tierra caliente (hot land) the hovels of the natives are of one story, and are generally thatched with palm- leaves. Three lines of telegraph are seen by the side of the track. One of them belongs to the National Government, another to a private corporation called " The Commercial," and the third to the Mexican Eailway Company. The last uses imported poles of cast-iron, with white china insulators. Passing the station of Tejeria (9£ miles), whence a branch tramway leads to Jalapa, 60 miles distant, the sur face of the ground continues flat, and affords good grazing all the way to Soledad (26 miles) ; elevation, 305 feet. Here the train stops ten minutes. Coffee and bread are for sale, at the price of one real. The majestic, snow-clad peak of Orizaba now rises into full view. For a hundred miles the eye follows the crest of the sierra forming the eastern boundary of the table-land. The plain of the State of Vera Cruz is about thirty miles in width. After crossing the Soledad Eiver, the ascending grade becomes perceptible. At many of the railway-stations cakes of compressed coal are piled in large masses. They are imported from Great Britain, as there is no coal near the line of the road, and wood being scarce and dear, except in the vicinity of the volcano of Orizaba. The next station is Camaron (39 J miles). The road now crosses a plateau covered with basaltic bowlders. The so-called Spanish moss, or lichen, bangs from the trees, reminding the American tourist of the forests of Georgia and Florida. Paso del Macho (47£ miles) is the next stopping-place. Here the train begins to ascend a heavy grade. The track makes a wide curve around the base of the thickly- wooded Chiquihuite Mountain, and soon comes in sight of the cascade of the Rio de Atoyac. The adjacent region is covered with a dense tropical jungle, in which many species 162 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. of flowers and trailing vines grow luxuriantly. The matted forest extends to the summits of the neighboring hills. Perhaps no other part of Mexico possesses a richer vegeta tion than this portion of the route. It forms a striking con trast to the dreary plains which the traveler will soon reach. The train now arrives at Atoyac (53£ miles) ; elevation, 1,512 feet. The line crosses a bridge over the Rio de Atoyac. This, like the other bridges along the route, is built of iron, with stone piers. Proceeding farther, several tunnels are passed, and both tobacco and sugar-cane are seen growing in the vicinity. The next station is Cordoba (65J miles), which lies at the altitude of 2,713 feet above the level of the Gulf. This town has about five thousand inhabitants, and is one mile distant from the railway. It is reached by horse-cars, and it has a small hotel. Cordoba is famous for its coffee-plan tations, and the stranger will have no better opportunity in Mexico for visit ing one of them. A day may be spent to advan tage at Cordoba. Various kinds of fruit grow plenti fully, and are sold at a very low price. A basket of two dozen oranges costs twenty -five cents, whereas the usual price on the table-land is three oranges for a medio (six and a quarter cents). Mexicans en route to the capital often lay in a large stock of pine apples, bananas, and oranges at Cordoba, and take them to their homes, as the extortionate rates of freight on this railway render fruit very expensive in the City of Mexico. The Pineapple Plant. THE MEXICAN RAILWAY COMPANY. 163 Most of the coffee consumed in Eastern Mexico grows in the vicinity of Cordoba. There are many valuable planta tions, and a few Americans have established themselves here. It may be remarked that the State of Vera Cruz produces more coffee than any other State in the Eepublic. Leaving Cordoba, the road makes a long bend and crosses the bridge of Metlac, built over a river of the same name. The scenery is magnificent, and the ravine, or barranca, of Metlac contains one of the most skillful pieces of engi neering to be found in the country. The general plan of building the Mexican railways has been to wind around the bases of the several mountains, rather than to drive long tunnels or construct large bridges. Passing the hamlet of Fortin (70f miles), the next station is Orizaba (82 miles). ORIZABA. Population, 17,000 ; elevation, 4,028 feet. Hotels. — A la Borda (German), Diligencias, and Cuatro Naciones. Baths. — De Santa Rita on the main street ; very good. Horse-cars from the station to the hotels ; fare, a medio (6J cents). Hacks, 6 reales (75 cents) an hour. Orizaba is the present capital * of the State of Vera Cruz. It lies in a broad and very fertile valley. There is excel lent pasturage in the vicinity, and fine cattle are raised. The staple products of the valley are tobacco and sugar cane. There are several haciendas of the latter, the largest of which is at Jalapilla. Tobacco grows in the outskirts of the city in large quantities. Even church-yards have been turned to use for planting this article. During the Spanish domination, when the restrictions on trade were so oppressive, the cultivation of tobacco was confined by law to the district including Cordoba and Orizaba, and the Government employed inspectors to pull up any leaves of the plant that were found growing outside of it. * Jalapa was formerly the capital. 164 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Places of Interest. — 1. The Parroquia and other churches. 2. The Paseo. 3. The Cerro (hill) del Borrego. 4. Jalapilla (sugar-mill). 5. The cascade of Rincon Grande. 6. The cascade of Barrio Nuevo. The Paseo is one of the most beautiful parks in Mexico. It is about a half-mile from the principal hotels. The Cerro del Borrego should be ascended. Its sum mit commands a magnificent view. During the inva sion, the French defeated the Mexicans here on June 13, 1862, and the remains of the fortifications are seen to this day. There is a limestone-quarry at the base of the moun tain. Jalapilla is a hamlet about a mile and a half south of the city. It lies in the midst of rich fields of sugar-cane. There is a large sugar-mill here, belonging to Sefior Bringos, and the tourist will have an excellent opportunity of see ing how sugar is manufactured. We may add that a much larger quantity of sugar could be produced in the valley of Orizaba than is now yielded, because only a small part of it is occupied by the sugar-cane. This remark would also apply to the greater part of the arable land in the State of Vera Cruz in regard to crops of other articles. This State ranks second in the annual production of sugar, Morelos being the first. The Emperor Maximilian resided a short time at Jalapilla after the French army had evacuated the capital. Here he held the famous council to determine whether he should abdicate or not. The cascade of Rincon Grande is about a mile east of Jalapilla. There are several waterfalls about forty feet in height, which are surrounded by very luxuriant vegetation. There is another cascade (Barrio Nuevo) of smaller dimen sions on the north side of the valley of Orizaba. Owing to the scarcity of rain m Mexico, waterfalls are very highly regarded. They are found chiefly in the tierra templada and in the "foot-hills " of the Sierra Madre. The THE MEXICAN RAILWAY COMPANY. 165 majestic peak of Orizaba is visible only from the eastern end of the city. An intervening ridge prevents the ob server from seeing it in other quarters of the town. If the tourist will leave his hotel early enough to see the sun rise on the mountain, he will behold one of the grandest sights in Mexico. Most of the houses in Orizaba are one story high, with overhanging red-tiled roofs. The traveler will have a chance to examine the class of dwellings occupied by the poor people. They are constructed of all kinds of rub bish, such as old boards, sugar-cane stalks, barrel-staves, sun-dried bricks, and pieces of matting. These huts are generally thatched with palm-leaves or with dried strips of the maguey, and the solid ground serves as a floor. The climate of Orizaba is temperate but very moist. Bull-fights take place on Sunday afternoons, the bull-ring, or plaza de toros, being in an old convent. Another large church is now used as a barracks for the garrison. There is a Ma sonic lodge in the upper part of the same edifice. The stranger, by visiting the registrar's office (oflcio publico mas antiguo), can inspect some of the old Spanish deeds written on parchment, with many abbreviations, durT ing the time of Cortes. The mediaeval Spanish contains so many contractions as to be almost incomprehensible to the Mexican of to-day.. For example, instead of writing q-u-e for the word que, meaning " which," in those days they wrote simply the letter q, with the addition of a semicir cular curve, which was carried over to the first letter of the next word, giving the two words the appearance of a single one. Notwithstanding the age of these manuscripts, they are still in an excellent state of preservation. 2. From Orizaba to Esperanza (29 miles). Leaving Orizaba, the railroad traverses the flat plain, and passes the village of Horales, which boasts of a small 166 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. cotton-factory. The next station is Enurial (88£ miles). A Fairlie engine, which is constructed of two locomotives, with the tender on top, is now attached to the train. The grade soon becomes very heavy as the iron horse climbs the cumbres, or summits. Passing through several tunnels, the Barranca del Lnfiernillo is reached. This locality affords the most magnificent scenery along the entire route. The track is built on the edge of a precipice, and a roaring torrent is seen at the bottom of the rocky canon, six hun dred feet below. The tourist may now look back on the broad valley, and trace the course of the winding railway, interspersed with bridges, and see the old diligence road in the distance, which is to-day given up to pack-animals. Trains of burros, or donkeys, still transport the wares of the peasant to the neighboring villages. The next station is Maltrata (94£ miles), where the ele vation is 5,550 feet. The volcano of Orizaba is visible from this point. It is, however, generally covered with clouds, except in the early morning. There are so many curves, and the ascending grade is so steep, that the train only makes about seven miles an hour in this part of the journey. Some maize is grown beyond Maltrata, but the country is barren for the most part. Bota (97£ miles) is the next station. The line now makes another great bend around the steep slope of the mountain, and comes to Alta Luz (103 miles), a hamlet of several houses. If the observer will look back, he may see the village of Maltrata, with the track meandering across the plain, and, far in the distance, a glimpse of the valley of Orizaba may be obtained. The traveler has reached the tierra fria, or cold zone. The flora reminds one of the Eocky Mountains. Dwarf pines, spruces, and deciduous trees, with a few Alpine flowers, take the place of the luxuriant tropical vegetation of the " hot country " that has recently been traversed. THE MEXICAN RAILWAY COMPANY. 167 Blue limestone covers the country from Orizaba west ward, and the region is adapted to grazing to some ex tent. The next station is Boca del Monte, or "mouth of the mountain" (107£ miles), where the elevation is 7,924 feet. The tourist has now attained the level of the great table-land of Mexico. This point, however, is not the high est on the line, the summit being near Guadalupe, about eighty miles distant. The traveler crosses a flat plain for sev eral miles, and ar rives at Esperanza (llli miles). The train stops thirty minutes for dinner. The east ward and westward passenger-trains meet here. The re spective escorts of soldiers change cars, and are carried back to the termini of the road. A high wall surrounds the station, and a guard stands at each entrance. A small but well-kept hotel lies within the inclosure. It belongs to the railway company, and a French restaurateur is employed as manager. The nights and early mornings are very cool on the table-land, the thermometer usually falling to 40° Fahr., and occasionally below the freezing- point. The plain of Esperanza, which has an area of about forty-five square miles, is quite fertile. Wheat, bar ley, and Indian corn are grown in abundance. If the tourist will stop over for a day, he may visit a fine hacienda, or farm, at San Antonio deAbajo, about two miles distant. It belongs to Don Andres Gutierrez, and is valued at $200,000. The hacienda contains houses for the peons, or This met shows the zones of vegetation in going from the sea-level to the summit of the snow- clad peaks. 168 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. day-laborers, barns, stock-yards, blacksmith and carpenter shops, etc. There is also a quaint little church, which bears the date of A. D. 1772 on the belfry. The hacendado, or proprietor, employs a priest to officiate, and also to teach the children of his peons, who number several hundred. There are a great many horses, mules, cattle, and sheep on the farm, and the owner uses plows of American manufac ture. The traveler has an excellent view from Esperanza of the volcano of Orizaba, which rises behind the Sierra Negra. The mountain can be ascended from this point. It is dif ficult, however, to procure horses here, and accordingly the tourist is recommended to make the ascent from San Andres, about six miles distant by trail, but fifteen miles by the railway. The peak of Orizaba is 17,200 feet above the sea-level, and is the highest mountain in Mexico, with the exception of Popocatepetl. There were violent eruptions in 1545 and 1566, but the volcano has been quiet ever since. It was reported to be smoking in April, 1883. There is no diffi cult climbing on the mountain, but the ascent is exceedingly laborious on account of the steepness of the snow-clad cone. It is almost impossible for the traveler coming direct from Vera Cruz to ascend Orizaba. He should spend several days on the table-land, and accustom his lungs to the rare fied atmosphere, before starting out for the summit of the peak. The tourist can ride to a cave just below the timber- line, which is about 13,500 feet above the level of the sea, and pass the night there. Guides, blankets, and provisions for two days must be taken. As the clouds rise and often cover the mountain early in the forenoon, the traveler should leave the cave by 4 A. M. if possible. About five hours will be required to reach the summit. Very few persons thus far have climbed Orizaba. An excursion to Oaxaca and Mitla may be made from THE MEXICAN RAILWAY COMPANY. 169 Esperanza. A horse-railroad extends from the latter place to Tehuacan, thirty-one miles distant. A diligence is then run to Tecomabapa, about forty miles farther. Thence the tourist must travel by horseback via the villages of Teotit- lan, Cues, Dominguillo, Joyacatlan, San Juan, and Etla, to Oaxaca, about ninety miles distant. Tehuacan (Hotels, Dili- gencias and Ferrocarril) has a population of 10,000. The traveler is advised to procure horses in this place. There is a meson (inn) at Tecomabapa, but the other settlements being very small are destitute of hotel accommodations. The nights must be spent in the huts of the natives. Par ties making this trip are advised to carry provisions with them. The Mexican Southern Eailroad will eventually connect Tehuacan with Oaxaca. The latter city is de scribed in Section VII, and the reader is referred to the chapter on ruins in Part First for an account of Mitla. 3. From Esperakza to Puebla via Apizaco, 94f miles. Leaving Esperanza, the traveler sees the snow-capped summits of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl on the left, and the pyramidal peak of Malinche on the extreme right. The landscape reminds him of the parks of Colorado. The railroad crosses the broad plain, and the station of San Andres (126J miles) is reached. Horse-cars run to the town, about five miles distant. It has already been stated that the volcano of Orizaba may be ascended from this point (p. 168). The summit is about fifteen miles dis tant. The train now passes some maize-fields and the salt lakes of El Salado, and arrives at Rinconada (139 miles), eleva tion 7,731 feet. The country soon becomes fertile again, and the next station is San Marcos (150^ miles). Another railway crosses the track here, extending to Puebla on the south, and to San Juan de Llanos on the north. It will be completed in the autumn of 1884. Proceeding farther, 170 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. the train stops at Huamantla (161 miles). The traveler is now in the State of Tlaxcala, the former home of the great rivals to the Aztecs, whose services Cortes secured on the march from Vera Cruz to the valley of Mexico, thereby greatly increasing his forces. Much Indian corn is culti vated in the neighborhood, and the maguey, or aloe, and nopal, or cactus-tree, are used as fences. The picturesque mountain of Malinche lies behind the town. It was named after Dona Marina, the interpreter of the Span ish army under Cortes. The next station is Api- zaco (176f miles), eleva tion 7, 912 feet. A branch line leads from this point to Puebla, 47 kilometres, or 29J miles. It was opened on September 16, 1869. Leaving Apizaco, the road makes a long curve and runs southward to Santa Ana (10£ miles). The mountain of Malin che remains in full view. It is often snow-capped, and the natives bring the snow to the train and sell it in glasses mixed with lemon-juice. Maguey, maize, and wheat grow in large quantities along the line. The grade is downward all the way to Pue bla. The tourist soon comes in sight of the majestic snow- clad peaks of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl. The former has an elevation of 10,500 feet above the broad valley. The next station is Panzacola (21| miles), and a half-hour's ride brings the tourist to Puebla. The Nopal. THE MEXICAN RAILWAY COMPANY. 171 PUEBLA. Population, 64,588 ; elevation, 7,201 feet. Hotels. — FspaOol, Diligencias, Del Cristo, Del Recreo. Restaurants and cafes on the northern and western sides of the Plaza mayor. Baths, adjoining the Paseo viejo (1 real). Carriages, 50 cents an hour ; on Sunday and feast-days, 75 cents. Puebla was founded on September 28, 1531. The city is par excellence an old Spanish settlement. It is often called Puebla de los Angeles, or town of the angels. Since May 5, 1862, the city has been named Puebla de Zaragoza, after a general of that name, who defeated the French on the date above mentioned. The churches are finer than those of any other Mexican town, and the streets are well paved. The houses are usually built with two stories, and arcades are found on the Plaza mayor. There are twenty- six public squares and two parks in Puebla. The adjoining city of Cholula was the headquarters of Cortes for several months during the Conquest. Pictures of some of the battles between the Spaniards and the na tives may be seen on the walls of the hotels. Blankets, or zarapes, hats of straw and felt, soap, thread, crockery, and glass are manufactured in large quantities in Puebla. Many fine stores are found in the city, and the traveler can pur chase ornaments of the so-called Mexican onyx, or tecali, which occurs in the neighboring marble-quarries. It is composed chiefly of carbonate of lime. The stranger should ascend one of the towers of the cathedral for a view of the city. The scene is one of sur passing beauty. Malinche lies on the eastern side of the fertile plain, and the volcano of Popocatepetl rises about twenty-five miles to the westward. Tourists can ascend the latter mountain from Puebla. Guides, blankets, and pro visions for three days, must be taken ; but it will be more convenient to make the ascent from Amecameca, on the 172 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. western side of the ridge. (This trip is described in the section on the Morelos Eailway.) Places of Interest. — 1. The Cathedral (observe the wood-carvings and Mexican onyx-work). 2. The Church of San Francisco. 3. The Church of La Compania. 4. The Church of San Cristobal. 5. The Museum. 6. The College, or Colegio del Estado. 7. The Paseo Nuevo and Paseo Viejo. 8. The Pyramid of Cholula. 9. Fort Guadalupe. Popocatepetl. There are several other churches, but they are hardly worth a visit. We have not space to describe all of the above buildings. The reader is referred to the chapter on ruins for an account of the pyramid at Cholula. At the time of the arrival of the Spaniards, Cortes states that the city of Cholula contained 20,000 houses and about 150,000 inhabitants. To-day the population is less than 10,000. THE MEXICAN RAILWAY COMPANY. 173 A church built by Cortes, and containing some quaint his torical paintings, is yet standing. Cholula can also boast of a park. The town has an altitude of 6,906 feet accord ing to Humboldt, or about 300 feet lower than Puebla. It is reached by carriage and by horse-cars (fare, first class, twenty-five cents). The distance is seven miles. Maguey and wheat are grown to a large extent in the vicinity. 4. From Puebla to the City of Mexico. Distance, 115J miles. Two trains daily. Leaving Puebla, the road has an ascending grade to Api- zaco. The heaviest is near the latter place. From Apizaco the land rises slightly, and the track crosses a gently undu lating plain covered with extensive maguey plantations. Guadalupe (186J miles) is the next station. The high est point of the Mexican Eailway is near by. It is 8,333 feet above the Gulf of Mexico. This is the most elevated station in the Eepublic, except where the Mexican National Eailway traverses the sierra between Toluca and the capi tal. The summit of the latter route is 9,974 feet. At various points of the road the tourist will see soldiers, wear ing gray uniforms, and armed with carbines and sabers. They are the Guardia rural, or mounted patrols, who ac company the diligences, and protect the smaller towns from the depredations of robbers. Passing Soltepec (192f miles) ; and Apam (205f miles), which has an elevation of 8,226 feet, the train reaches Irolo (215£ miles). A tramway leads from the last station to Pa- chuca, thirty-seven miles distant. Pachuca is one of the oldest mining towns in Mexico, and many of its mines are worked at the present' day ; but, as the daily passenger- train from Vera Cruz and Apizaco does not connect with the tramway, the tourist is advised to proceed directly to the capital, and make an excursion to Pachuca, taking the outward morning train. (For description, see Section III.) 174 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Leaving Irolo, where the elevation is 8,046 feet, the road bed descends gradually toward the City of Mexico. The next station is Ometusco (221£ miles), following which comes La Palma (225£ miles). Tourists will observe that the houses in the villages on the table-land are built of large, sun-dried bricks, called adobe. The country is sparsely populated, and the natives live together in towns or hamlets. It is very rare to see a dwelling isolated from any settlement. Passing Otumba (229 miles), famous in history as the scene of a battle in which the Spanish invaders defeated the Aztecs, on July 8, 1520, we reach San Juan Teotihuacan (236 miles). The latter place is celebrated for its two pyra mids, that of the Sun and that of the Moon. They may be seen from the train, but a visit to these teocallis will re pay the traveler. As the town lies about one and a half mile from the railroad, and as there is neither hotel nor restaurant in it, the tourist must continue the journey to the national capital, and make an excursion to San Juan Teotihuacan by the morning train, returning in the even ing. (The pyramids are described in the chapter on ruins.) The next station is Tepexpam (243 miles), and the track soon enters the far-famed valley of Mexico. The road skirts the Lake of Texcoco, and presently the magnifi cent snow-capped mountains are seen on the south. Pass ing the town of Guadalupe, the traveler arrives at the rail way-station of Buena Vista, one of the suburbs of the City of Mexico. An express-agent meets the train, and will deliver bag gage to any part of the city. He will also take charge of the keys, as trunks and boxes must be opened and examined for the purpose of ascertaining whether they contain tax able articles before being allowed to enter the city. The office of the express is in the Hotel Lturbide, and the charge is twenty-five cents (two reales) for each package. SECTION" III. The City of Mexico and Environs. Population of the capital in 1883, according to the best estimates, 225,000. Elevation, 7,347 feet, or 2,240 metres, above the sea-level. Hotels. — San Carlos, Iturbide, Gillow, Comonfort, Guadiola, Nacional, Europa, Del Bazar, Universal, Fspirilu Santo, Gran Hotel Central, Ortega, San Agustin, Humboldt, and several others. Mesones (inns). — De San Francisco, De la Estrella, De San Antonio, Del Picadero, and many others. Restaurants. — Iturbide, De la Concordia, Cafe Anglais, Maison Doree, Cafe de Paris. (Fee in restaurants, one medio (6J cents) for each person.) Post-Office. — In the Calle de la Moneda. Telegraph-Offices in the railway-stations. Central office of the Gov ernment telegraph line in the Callejon del Espiritu Santo No. 5. Office hours, 8 A. M. to 8 p. M. ; on feast-days from 9 a. m. to 12 m. Office of the Vera Cruz Commercial line, at No. 14 Del Refugio. Office of the old line to Jalisco, in Los Bajos de San Agustin No. 2. Express-Office in the Hotel Iturbide. Wells, Fargo & Co. have also an agency in the city. Theatres. — Nacional, in the Calle de Vergara ; Principal, Calle del Coliseo ; Arbeit, in the Calle de San Felipe Neri. Baths adjoining the Teatro Nacional (the others can not be recom mended). General Diligence-Office, in the rear of the Hotel Iturbide. Carriages, first, second, and third class. — First class, carrying blue flags, $1 an hour on work-days, and $1.50 on feast-days. Second class, with red flags, 75 cents and $1 on work-days and feast-days respectively. Third class, with white flags, from 6 A. M. to 10 p. M., 50 cents, and from 10 p. m. to 6 a. m., $1 an hour on all days. Public carriages have their number and a tariff of charges printed in Spanish posted in a conspicuous manner inside. The driver is obliged to hand the passenger entering his carriage a paper containing the tariff, his name and number, and the place where he belongs. In hiring a vehicle, one quarter of an hour is the minimum that can be paid for. Saddle-horses, $2 for the afternoon. 9 176 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Banks. — London, Mexico, and South America, Capuchinas No. 3 ; Na cional, corner (esquina) of San Francisco and San Juan de Letran Streets ; Mercantil Mexicano, San Agustin No. 15 ; Bolsa Mercantil Mexicana, Puen~ te del Espiritu Santo No. 6. Societies. — Mexican Geographical and Statistical Society, Calle de San AndrSs No. 1 1 ; Mexican Academy, Calle de Medina No. 6 ; American club house at the suburb of La Piedad ; German club, corner (esquina) del Cole- gio de Ninas and Indcpendencia Streets ; French Philharmonic and Dramatic Society, ,?*» de Plateros ; French Circle (reading-room), Antigua Lonja, Bajos de la Disputacion ; Hunting and Fishing Club, Sta. Isabel No. 9. Railway stations at Buena Vista, for the Mexican Railway Company, and the Mexican Central Railroad Company ; at Colonia, for the Mexican National Railway Company; at San Ldzaro for the Morelos Railway Company. Horse-cars, of first and second class, start from the Plaza mayor at intervals of ten, fifteen, thirty, and sixty minutes, for all parts of the city and suburbs not exceeding ten miles distant. (See time-tables.) Diplomatic Corps. — The United States, France, Spain, Guatemala, Sal vador, Honduras, and Chili are represented by envoys extraordinary and ministers plenipotentiary at the capital. Germany, Italy, and Belgium have ministers resident. Formerly Great Britain had diplomatic relations with Mexico, but they were suspended on account of the failure to pay a public debt. During the year 1 883, Sefior Matiscal, the ex-Secretary of Foreign Affairs, went to London and re-established diplomatic intercourse with England The foreign ministers live in the suburb of San Cosme. Newspapers. — Single copies, one medio (6J- cents). The Two Republics, published semi-weekly, is the only journal in English. The Financier is printed half in Spanish and half in English. Besides these, several papers are published in Spanish and French, such as the Monitor Republicano, Diario Ofidal, and others. B dll-fights, at the suburbs of Huisaclml and Cuautillan, on Sunday afternoons. The City of Mexico is the capital of the Eepublic. The name is derived from Mexitli, who was the Aztec war-god. Under the name of Tenochtitlan it was the capi tal of the ancient empire of Anahuac. The story of its origin is as follows : The Aztecs, while wandering about the country, met the Colhuans, a rival tribe. A battle en sued, and the former, being defeated, were pursued by the latter. The Aztecs marched to the valley of Mexico, which THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 177 was then mostly covered by lagoons. An oracle had com manded them not to found a city till they had come to a spot where an eagle would be seen standing on a rock. Upon exploring the shores of the lagoon, the Aztec rovers beheld the long-sought eagle resting on a cactus, which The Volcanoes of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl. grew out of a crevice in the solid rock. Accordingly, they called their city Tenochtitlan, which signifies a "cactus upon a rock." The device of an eagle, with a serpent in its beak, stand ing on a cactus that grows out of a rock, has become the escutcheon of Mexico. It is found on the national flag, as well as on the gold and silver coins. The present capital lies in latitude 19° 25' 45" north, and longitude 99° 5' 15" west of Greenwich. It is built on 178 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. what was formerly an island in the Lake of Tezcuco.* The ancient city is said to have been founded on July 18, 1325. Some of the houses were constructed on piles, like the pre historic Swiss lake-dwellings. In order to protect the capi tal from the inundations of the surrounding lakes, a system of dikes was established by the Aztecs, the remnants of which exist to the present day. In 1466 Montezuma I, after a disastrous flood in Tenochtitlan, ordered a dike to be constructed, which was 39,360 f feet long and 65 feet wide. At the time of the Conquest the ancient capital was en tered by the Spaniards under Cortes on the 8th day of No vember, 1519. After a residence of about seven months, he was compelled to evacuate it. In the following year, with the aid of brigantines on Lake Texcoco, which were built especially for the purpose, in the neighboring hills, the Con queror attacked and besieged the city. The siege lasted seventy-five days, when the Aztecs surrendered to the in vaders. Soon afterward the Spaniards destroyed Tenoch titlan, and built a capital of their own on the same site, which has since borne the name of Mexico. Cortes made a great mistake in founding the modern city on the site of the old one, which was situated on soft ground, and in volved an expensive system of dikes and causeways. It would have been preferable to have selected an elevated spot in the vicinity, like Tacubaya, about six miles south of the capital. Scarcely a vestige remains of the ancient me tropolis. Several Aztec monuments, such as the calendar and sacrificial stones, and a few idols, have been dug up on the site of Tenochtitlan ; but the ruins of not even a single house or temple can be found to-day. These relics were practically incapable of destruction. Accordingly, they were buried. The teocalli, or pyramid of the ancient capital, was much smaller than those of San Juan Teotihuacan and * Now spelled Texcoco. f About seven and a half miles. THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 179 Cholula. It was ninety feet on each side at the base, and decreased as it advanced in height to a surface of thirty feet square. There were two altars on the summit. Thus much for the history of Tenochtitlan. The valley of Mexico, near the center of which lies the capital, is about forty-two miles long and about thirty miles wide. It contains six lakes, which were originally one large lagoon. Their names are — beginning at the south — Xochimilco, Chalco, Texcoco, San Cristobal, Xalto- can, and Zumpango. The last-named lake is the highest, while Texcoco is the lowest and largest. Lake Texcoco has heretofore received the overflow of the others. Their aggregate area is about twenty-two square leagues. The water of these lakes is salt, except Chalco and Xochimilco. They are probably the highest bodies of salt-water in the world. The climate is temperate, the mean annual temperature being 60° Fahr. There is considerable moisture in winter and during the rainy season, from Juue to September. The most changeable weather occurs in February. May is the hottest month. During the entire year the early morn ing is cold, the thermometer generally falling to about 40° Fahr., and occasionally sinking below the freezing-point. There are no fireplaces nor hot-air furnaces in the hotels of Mexico, which circumstance renders a stranger uncom fortable during damp and cold weather. Travelers are cautioned to be extremely careful to avoid taking cold on reaching the capital. Many of the buildings are old, and the doors and windows do not fit tightly. Mexico can hardly be called a healthy city. The great desideratum of the capital is proper drainage. This sub ject has been investigated by the ablest minds in the coun try from time immemorial. During the Spanish domi nation the dikes and causeways often proved insufficient to protect the city from floods. Since the foundation of the 180 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. capital, or since the Conquest, there have been five great inundations, viz., in 1553, 1580, 1604, 1607, and 1629-'34. In 1607 the Viceroy Salinas began the artificial drain age of the lakes, by constructing a canal at Huehuetoca, on the northern side of the valley. This canal, or de- sague, is described at length in the section on the Mexican Central Railroad, which now passes through the remains of it. The Indian system of dikes had been temporarily abandoned, and the canal proving a failure, the result was a terrible inundation in 1629, which lasted five years. During this period communication was made by means of canoes, the seat of government was removed to one of the suburbs, trade was at a stand-still, and the distress and misery of the lower classes baffled all description. It was deemed advisable to return to the dike system, which has been preserved ever since. For many years the Plaza mayor was only three or four feet above the level of Lake Texcoco. The level of this lake varies from year to year, and there is now a gauge on the Plaza mayor to indicate the height of its waters. Owing to evaporation the surface of the lake is much lower than during the reign of the viceroys. In the winter of 1882-83 it was about six feet below the Plaza mayor. There are no cellars in the City of Mexico, and water is reached a few feet below the street-pavement. The soil is so soft that a solidly cemented foundation of lime and stone is used for the larger buildings. In 1882 an American company entered into a contract with the Mexican Government to drain the valley of Mex ico, agreeing to deposit a bond of $200,000 as a guarantee to carry out the scheme. The last session of Congress, however, declared this contract forfeited on account of the failure to file the bond. It has been suggested that a thorough system of drain age for the capital would do more harm than good, for the THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 181 reason that the heavier buildings might settle so much as to render them unsafe. The early Spanish historians nar rate that, before the Conquest, the valley of Mexico was covered with dense forests. The foreign invaders made war on these forests, as did the Puritans in New England, and to-day, with the exception of the magnificent grove of Chapultepec, there are only a few rows of trees of recent growth along the causeways.* The houses in the capital are built of heavy masonry, with stairways of stone, and with roofs and floors of brick and cement. Each building includes one or more open court-yards, or patios. These patios are either paved with flag-stones, or planted with flowers and shrubbery, and adorned with fountains and statuary. In the suburbs the dwellings do not generally exceed one story in height, but in the heart of the city they frequently rise to three. The entrance of each house from the street is by a single porte cochere, which is closed at night, and attended by a porter, who occupies an adjoining room, and who is held respon sible for the entries and exits. The capital is virtually fire-proof, it being next to im possible to set fire to a Mexican house. In dwellings of more than one story, the upper floor, on account of the higher ceilings, is always preferred as a resi dence, although it commands the highest rents. The ground-floor is commonly occupied for business purposes — e. g., for stables, store-houses, or workshops. There are no aristocratic streets nor quarters in the City of Mexico, the homes of both the upper and lower * The Mexican Government has recently made a contract with Oscar A. Drorge to plant 2,000,000 trees in the valley of Mexico within four years, 500,000 a year, for $200,000. The contractor agrees to put in annually 80,000 ash, 35,000 willows, 12,000 poplars, 60,000 eucalypti, 60,000 acacias, and other varieties, in plantations of from 50,000 to 100,000 ; and to receive in his nurseries three graduates annually of the Agricultural School. 182 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. classes being scattered over the metropolis, and oftentimes being found under the same roof. The capital is indifferently watered by two aqueducts containing respectively clear and muddy water. The supply is conducted by pipes to numerous .tanks and open fountains located in all parts of the city, whence it is distributed for family use by a licensed corps of agua- dores, or water-carriers. Their charges are from two cents to twelve and a half cents a load, according to the distance of the fountain from the place of delivery. The public edifices and business houses are lighted with gas of inferior quality. In private dwellings kerosene-oil and stearine candles are generally used. Some quarters of the city are illuminated with lamps of gasoline or petro leum. Eecently, the electric light has been employed on the Plaza mayor and adjacent streets. Places of Interest. — 1. The Cathedral and El Sagrario. 2. The Palace and Maximilian's Coach. 3. The Museum (El Museo Nacional). 4. The Academy of San Carlos. 5. The Mining School (Colegio de Mineria). 6. The Mint (Casa de Moneda). 7. The Church of La Santissima. 8. The Church of Santo Domingo. 9. The Church of La Profesa. 10. The Church of Santa Teresa. 11. The Church of San Fernando. 12. The Convent of San Francisco. 13. The National Library (La Biblioleca Nacional). 14. The Park (La Alameda). 15. The Tivoli Gardens. 16. The Drive (Pasco de la Reforma). - 17. The Canal (El Paseo de la Viga). 18. Alva- rado's Leap (El Salto de Alvarado). 19. The Reform School. In the Environs. — 1. Chapullepec. 2. Atzcapatzalco and the Noche-triste tree. 3. Tacubaya (Military Academy and private residences). 4. Guadalupe (church and chapel). 5. La Piedad (Al Fresco, the American Club). 6. San Angel. All of which are reached by horse-cars from the Plaza mayor. We have not space enough to give a minute account of each one of the above objects of interest ; accordingly, a brief reference will be made to them in the above order : 1. The tourist should ascend one of the towers (200 feet high) of the Cathedral for a view of the city (fee, one real). This edifice was commenced in 1573, and finished I 184 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. in 1667, at a cost of $1,750,000. It covers a space of about 432 X 200 feet. This Cathedral is the largest in North America. Some of the paintings within are said to be the work of Murillo. The Emperor Iturbide is buried in one of the chapels. The Aztec temple, or teocalli, formerly occupied the site of the Cathedral. The famous Calendar- Stone leans against the wall of this building. It is twelve feet in diameter, three feet thick, and weighs twenty-five tons. The Sagrario has a beautifully carved facade. Just east of it is a monument erected to the memory of the dis tinguished engineer Enrico Martinez, which contains a gauge to register the level of Lake Texcoco iu the pedestal. 2. The Palace, which is built on the site of that of Montezuma, is the largest building in Mexico, the front measuring 675 feet. It contains the Embassadors' Hall, or Sala de Embaj adores, and Maximilian's Coach. The for mer is a room about 310x30 feet, with a throne at the southern end for the President and his Cabinet. It has, among other objects, full-length portraits by Segredo and other Mexican artists of the heroes of the War of Inde pendence, such as Hidalgo, Morelos, Allende, and others ; also portraits of Juarez, Diaz, and Washington, and a large painting of the great battle of Puebla, of May 5, 1862. Maximilian's Coach is in a room on the ground-floor, near the center of the Palace. The body of the vehicle is painted dark red. The wheels are gilded, and the interior is lined with white-silk brocade, with trimmings of heavy silver thread. There is no other coach of equal magnifi cence in the Western World. It surpasses in elegance the imperial carriages of Eussia. Strangers should not fail to see it. The doors of the Embassadors' Hall and of the room containing the coach are always locked. The keys may be obtained at the office of the Governor of the Pal ace, which is near the middle door of the facade. (A fee of one real should be paid to the mozo who shows THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 185 the traveler the coach, and two reales to the servant who opens the door of the Sala de Embajadores.) The Cathedral and Palace are situated on the Plaza mayor, in the center of which is the zocalo. 3. The Museum contains the sacrificial stone and many idols on the ground-floor; and Maximilian's sil ver service, several portraits, a large col lection of Mexican cu riosities, chiefly pot tery, and photographs of the ruins of Yuca tan and Chiapas, are found on the second story. It is to be regretted that the latter part of the Museum is open to the public only on Quetsalcoatl. Feathered Serpent. These idols are in the patio of the Museum. 186 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Sundays from 10 A. m. to 1 p. m., Tuesdays from 10 A. m. to 12 m., and Thursdays from 3 to 5 p. m. The court-yard is always open to visitors. The sacri ficial stone (Piedra de los sacrificios) is the principal ob ject of interest. It is 8| feet in diameter, 2f feet high, and 27£ feet in circumference. It was found in the Plaza mayor on December 17, 1791. The num ber of human-beings sacrificed on this celebrated stone is estimated at sixty thousand ! The manner of sacrifice was as follows : The victim was made to lie down, his feet and hands were held by four priests in gaudy attire, while a fifth pierced his breast with a razor of itztli, or volcanic glass. The latter then inserted his hand into the wound, and, tearing out the heart, threw it at the foot of the adjoining idol. The reader is referred to Prescott's Conquest of Mexico, vol. i, pages 74-86, for a full descrip tion of human sac rifices. We have not space to de scribe the serpent- idols and other objects, the number of which is forty-seven. Small catalogues in Spanish are sold at the door. It may be said that the collections made by M. Charnay in South ern Mexico, through the liberality of Pierre Lorillard, Esq., of New York, are in the museum, although not on exhibi tion, with the exception of a few objects. It was the pur- :mm trfll 'A ¦' . ¦ ' Teoyaomiqui. THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 187 pose of M. Charnay to send his collections of antiquities to Paris, but the Mexican Congress refused to pass a bill allowing the articles to be taken out of the country. 4. The Academy oe San Carlos is the only academy of the fine arts in the country, except one at Guadalajara. It contains a large number of paintings and some plaster casts of well-known statues. Most of the pictures are the work of foreign artists, such as Zurbaran, Murillo, Ru bens, Correggio, and Velasquez. Some of them have been painted by Mexicans, and possess considerable merit. The principal native artists are Jose and Luis Juarez, Cabrera, Parra, and Baltazar de Echave. Unfortunately, there is no catalogue of the pictures. An art-school is connected with the academy. ( Vide Chapter XXII. ) 5. The Mining School was considered by Humboldt as one of the finest buildings in the country. It occupies a lot 300 X 340 feet, and has collections of rocks, minerals, and fossils, chiefly from Mexico. It cost $1,500,000. 6. The Mint is the oldest in Mexico. It is open from 8 A. m. to 5 P. M. 7. The Church of La Santissima is noted for the ex quisite carvings on the facade. 8. The Church of Santo Domingo, in a square of the same name, possesses beautiful gilt wood-work, some old paintings, and a wooden model of the Saviour, in a recum bent attitude, and wearing a crown of thorns. Persons entering the church kiss the toe of this figure in the same manner as devout Eoman Catholics kiss the statue of St. Peter at Eome. A table stands near the image to receive offerings (limosnas). The ruins of a convent, overgrown with weeds, are in the rear of the church. The Custom- House and Medical School are situated on the eastern side of the Plaza de Santo Domingo. The latter was once used by the Inquisition, and it now has a library and anatomical museum. 188 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. 11. The Church of San Ferxando contains the ashes of the unfortunate Generals Mejia and Miramon. 16. The Paseo de la Eeforma (sometimes called El Paseo de Bucareli), or "Empress Drive," leads from the Alameda to Chapultepec. Statues of Charles IV of Spain, Christopher Columbus, and President Juarez, have been erected on the Paseo. The fashionable hour for driving is from 5 to 6 p. M. 17. The Canal, adjoining the Paseo de la Viga, pre sents a busy scene in the early morning. The Indians bring their fruits and vegetables to market, and the canal is crowded with their rafts and canoes. The tourist should hire a canoe and visit either Lake Texcoco, about three miles distant, or the " vegetable " gardens, a mile and a half from the terminus of the " Viga " horse-car track. A party of three or four persons may employ an Indian to paddle them to the gardens for the sum of one dollar. There is no tariff of charges, and a bargain must be made. Sailing through the narrow canals cut in the marshy soil, where fruits, vegetables, and flowers grow abundantly, the traveler may form some idea of the ancient aspect of the Venice of the New World. The chinampas, or so-called floating isl ands, which have always excited the wonder of foreigners, are never seen at the present day. They were formed of small masses of earth, covered with herbs, and held togeth er by roots, and were detached from the shore of the lagoon by the waves during stormy weather. These gardens are known to have been in use as far back as the end of the fourteenth century. They were afterward artificially con structed by making rafts of reeds, rushes, roots, and brush wood, and covering these with black mold naturally im pregnated with muriate of soda, but gradually purified from the salt and rendered fertile by washing it with the water of the lake. Some of the chinampas were movable and driven about by the winds, but others were anchored or at- THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 189 tached to the shore, and were towed or pushed with poles from one spot to another. The Indians occasionally built huts on these chinampas, and are said to have raised vege tables on them. 18. Alvarado's Leap is marked by a small bridge in the Calle de los Hombres Ilustres, just west of the Alame da. The San Cosme horse-cars pass the spot. This street was formerly a causeway leading from the capital toward the mainland, over which the Spaniards' passed in the evacuation of the city on the memorable noche triste, or "sad night" of July 1, 1520. The portable bridge over a breach in the causeway had been destroyed, and Alvarado, unwilling to plunge into the waters of the lake, paused upon the brink for a moment. Eesting his long lance on the ground, he succeeded in leaping across the gap, to the great astonishment of both the Spaniards and Aztecs. This place has ever since been known as the Salto de Alvarado. As the width of the breach is not given by the chroniclers of the time, the reader can have no means of judging how skillful a pole-vaulter this Spanish warrior may have been. A card of admission must be obtained at the Palace for permission to enter the castle of Chapultepec* During the French invasion the castle was occupied by Maximilian, that personator of Napoleon's dream of empire in the West ern World. The view from Chapultepec is one of surpass ing beauty, and the grounds contain a magnificent grove consisting chiefly of cedars draped with Spanish moss. One of the trees has been named after Montezuma. ' The stranger is advised to hire an open carriage by the hour, and drive to Chapultepec and the neighboring town of Tacnbaya, visiting the Military School and stately villas if possible. The celebrated Noche-triste tree is situated in the vil lage of Popotla, near an old church. Cortes is said to have * Chapultepec means " grasshopper's hill." 190 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. sat under this tree and cried over his misfortunes, after the disastrous retreat of the Spaniards during the night of the evacuation. The tree is known to the Indians as the ahuehuete, and is called a sabino in Spanish. It is a species of cedar, and is ten feet in diameter at the base and The Noche-triste Tree. about forty feet high. An iron railing surrounds it. The Atzcapotzalco horse-cars run through the Riviera de San Cosme, passing Alvarado' 's Leap, the houses of the foreign legations, the Tivoli Gardens, the School of Agriculture, the Tlaxpana aqueduct, and the noche-triste tree, before THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 191 reaching their destination. This aqueduct was built by the Spaniards, and contains the agua delgada, or soft water. It has nine hundred arches of about fifteen feet in height, each of which is said to have cost $1,000. At San Cosme the aqueduct terminates, and the water is conducted under ground in pipes to the heart of the city. The causeway that leads to Popotla and Atzcapotzalco is bordered on either side with a deep ditch into which the water drains and becomes stagnant. The surrounding re gion, which is now much lower than the causeway, was formerly a part of the great Mexican lagoon. Many of Cortes's soldiers were drowned here on the "sad night." The suburb of Guadalupe is remarkable for its cathe dral and chapel. It is reached by horse-cars from the Plaza mayor in about thirty minutes. The cathedral is a massive brick edifice, with four towers around a central dome. The interior is noted for the solid silver railing, about three feet high, which leads from the choir to the high altar and extends around the edge of the latter. The famous picture of the Virgin hangs in the high altar. The choir is adorned with artistic wooden carvings, and there is a large organ on each side of it. There are a great mauy ex-votos hung on the wall of the cathedral near the main entrance. They are principally cheap oil-paintings and wax-work. The sanctuary of Guadalupe is, perhaps, the most cele brated in the Eepublic, and the story of how it was built and named after Nuestra Seiiora de Guadalupe is interest ing. The tradition is as follows : An Indian called Juan Diego worked in the vicinity of Guadalupe. On one occa sion, while crossing the hill of Tepeyacac that rises behind the town, he saw a rainbow, in the middle of which was a beautiful woman encompassed by a white cloud. Upon approaching the figure, the Indian was told that she was the mother of God. The Virgin said that she desired a The Aqueduct and Fountain, Mexico. THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 193 temple to be built in that place, and that she would render aid and protection to all believers who would call upon her when in trouble. She further commanded him to report to the Bishop of Mexico what had taken place. The Indian did as he was directed, but Zumarraga, who was then bishop, discredited his statement. The Virgin appeared to the In dian several times afterward, and on one occasion ordered him to pick flowers from the barren mountain and take them to the bishop. Accordingly, he gathered beautiful flowers where none had previously grown, and carried them in his tilma or cloak to the episcopal palace. After telling his story, the Indian dropped the flowers on the floor, when suddenly the bishop fell on his knees at the sight of the image of the Blessed Virgin, that appeared to be painted on the cloak of Juan Diego. A long poem has been written on this miraculous ap pearance of the Virgin, and it is sold in book-form at the door of the cathedral. Eibbons of various colors, giving the size of the head of Our Lady of Guadalupe, are also offered for sale. A high mass is celebrated on the 12th day of every month, and on the 12th of December a great rehgious festival takes place, which is attended by persons from all parts of the Eepublic. It is the anniversary of the day upon which the Virgin first appeared to Juan Diego. Among the illustrious dead buried in this cathe dral are the Viceroy Bucareli and Colonel Obregon. The original flag that was carried by Hidalgo in 1810 is de posited here. The chapel of Guadalupe is situated on a hill directly behind the cathedral. A good view of the valley of Mex ico may be obtained from the facade of the former. The famous Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo was signed at this place on the 2d of February, 1848. The battle-fields of Chapultepec, Molina del Rey, and Cherubusco,. lie a few miles south of the capital. A hand- 194 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. some stone monument has been erected, by Generals Diaz and Gonzalez, near the castle of Chapultepec, to the mem ory of the heroes of the war of 1847. The tourist will have some difficulty in finding his way about the streets of the City of Mexico, as each block has a different name. Some streets have the same appellation for two or three squares, with a number added to each one — e. g., la, 2da, and Sra de San Francisco. The principal business thoroughfare is the Calle de Pla ter os, which leads from the Plaza mayor toward the Ala meda. The finest shops in Mexico are on this street ; English and French are spoken in some of them. Several new buildings are being erected, and others improved, in this part of the city. A walk through the colonnades known as the Portal Mercaderes will be found interesting. The military band plays in the adjoining zocalo four evenings in the week. Strangers will be pleased with the variety of Mexican costumes seen in the public squares. The black-cloth suits ornamented with silver buttons, and broad-brimmed felt hats with silver bands, are the most picturesque of all. A great deal of pulque is consumed in the national cap ital, and the traveler will meet many intoxicated persons on the street. It is said that there are two thousand shops, or pulquerias, in the city, at which thirty thousand gallons of pulque axe consumed daily. If the tourist has but a single day to spend in the cap ital, he should visit the Cathedral, Palace, Museum, Acad emy of San Carlos, Church of Santo Domingo, Paseo de la Reforma, Chapultepec, and go to the opera in the evening. There is some kind of opera, either French, Spanish, or Italian, nearly all the year round. "fe. 196 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. excursions around the capital. We would advise the tourist to leave his trunk at some hotel in the City of Mexico, and make short trips in all directions. The best excursions are as follows : 1. From Mexico to Celaya via Mexican Central Railroad, and return via Maravatio and Toluca. This route is described in Sections IV and V. 2. To the Pyramids of San Juan Teotihuacan. Distance, 25 miles. Take the morning train to the station of the same name on the Mexican Eailway, and walk or drive to the pyramids, about two miles distant. The larger one is dedicated to the Sun, and the other is called the pyramid of the Moon. An extensive view may. be had from the summit of the former. The valley of Mexico is clearly seen, and in the distant south the Nevado de Toluca is visible. (See chapter on ruins for a complete description of the teocallis.) There are no hotel accommodations at San Juan Teotihuacan. A bad fondita may be found in the town, but the traveler is recommended to carry provisions with him from the capi tal, and return by the afternoon train. 3. From Mexico to Pachuca. Distance, 57 miles. Pachuca contains some of the oldest mines in the Ee public. Many of them were worked long before the Span ish Conquest. The town lies in the State of Hidalgo, and is reached by rail from the City of Mexico to Irolo, and thence by tramway. (Hotel, San Carlos. ) There is a gov ernmental school of practical mining here. The popula tion of Pachuca is about 13,000, of which 5,000 are miners, and the altitude, as measured by Humboldt, is 8,150 feet. A great many Cornishmen are employed here, although this mining district is one out of a very few in which European or American miners have been introduced. Pachuca con tains about one hundred and fifty mines, and Real del THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 197 Monte has seventy-five of them. The ore is composed mainly of blackish silver sulphides. Several English com panies have established themselves in Pachuca, and an American company has recently been organized to work the tailings of some of the older mines. It is highly prob able that improved mining machinery will soon be used in this district. Compressed cakes of English coal are im- ' ported at the rate of $22 a ton ! It is said that a valuable deposit of coal has lately been discovered in the vicinity. Excursions may easily be made from Pachuca to the ad joining mining town of Real del Monte (elevation, 9,057 feet), and to the town and cascade of Regla, and also to the village of El Chico. 4. From Mexico to C^ernavaca. Distance, 47 miles by diligence. Fare, $4.50. Time, nine and a half hours. Stage-coaches run three times a week. Leaving Mexico, the road leads over a causeway, bor dered with a row of poplars on either side, to the suburb of Tlalpam, about seven miles distant. A horse-car track runs parallel with the road. Thence the route turns to the southeast, and lies over a sandy region as far as the end of the valley of Mexico. The lofty mountain of Ajusco is seen on the west, and the Lake of Xochimilco on the east. The diligence now begins to ascend the pass leading through the ridge which forms the southern boundary of the plateau of Anahuac. The roadway is smooth, and kept in good order as far as the summit, and the grade is moderate. As the stage-coach climbs the winding pass, the tourist soon obtains a beauti ful view of the valley of Mexico, whose surface is dotted with various extinct volcanoes, and the several lakes that have already been mentioned. Picturesque villages are scattered over the oval-shaped plain. Proceeding farther, the traveler enters a region cov- liiljlii , pill! •mi" THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 199 ered with thick grass, interspersed with pines and spruces, reminding him of a northern flora. Many pack-trains of burros, or donkeys, are seen on the road. They carry, prin cipally, fruit and vegetables to the capital. The diligence stops for lunch at a hamlet on the ridge-line, where the road is level for about two miles. Soon the summit of the pass is reached, the spot being marked by a stone cross, which is said to have been erected by Cortes. This cross marks the northern boundary-line of the grant of Montezuma to the Conqueror. According to the measurement of an ane roid barometer, the elevation of this point is 9,540 feet. The road now descends gradually. It is stony, and much rougher than the northern portion of the route. Fortunately for tourists, however, this highway is undergo ing repairs, and is already the best and, perhaps, the oldest line of travel for diligences in the Eepublic. As the ob server continues on his journey down-hill, he will see the distant city of Cuernavaca on the south. The city lies on a mesa, or natural terrace, beyond which is a broad valley running east and west. The coach soon reaches another hamlet, and the animals are changed for the last time. Five mules, instead of eight, are sufficient to draw the vehicle over the rapidly descend ing grade, and in about an hour the tourist arrives at his destination. CUERNAVACA. Population, 16,320. Elevation, 5,380 feet, according to Humboldt. Hotels. — San Pedro and Del Fenix, both on the plaza. Baths, one block north of the San Pedro. Places of Interest. — 1. Cortes's Palace. 2. The Parochial Church. 3. The Church of Guadalupe. 4. The Borda Gardens. 5. Maximilian's villa at Acapancingo. Cuernavaca, the capital of the State of Morelos, was originally called Quauhnahuac (i. e., near the beautiful hills), a term given to it by the Tlahuicos, who were the 10 200 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. founders of the city. It was conquered by the Spaniards in April, 1521. Both of the foreign usurpers, Cortes and Maximilian, made this place their favorite winter resort. Cortes's Palace is now used as a court-house, and has been rebuilt since the Independence of Mexico. The Bor- da Gardens, once very beautiful, are in ruins. They are on the western edge of the town, and are worthy of a visit. Maximilian's villa is now used as a school-house. It is called El Colegio de Ninas. A handsome garden adjoins the villa, but it is not in good condition. Cotton, coffee, bananas, and palms, besides flowers, grow here. The unfor tunate emperor occupied this place from January to Octo ber, in 1866. He is said to have built the charming villa at his own expense. The snow-clad mountains of Popo catepetl and Iztaccihuatl are in full view, and lie about twenty-five miles to the eastward. The village of Acapancingo is situated about one mile and a half southeast of Cuernavaca. There was once a good wagon-road thither, but now it is practicable only for horsemen and pedestrians. Much sugar-cane is grown in the neighborhood, and a crop may be reaped within twelve months after planting the cuttings. The tourist should visit the temple or fortress of Xochi- calco, which is one of the most remarkable remains on Mexican soil. It lies eighteen miles from Cuernavaca, on a rocky eminence, almost a league in circumference, which is cut into terraces faced with stone. The building on the summit is seventy-five by sixty-six feet in area. It is of hewn granite, and was constructed in the usual pyramidal- terraced form. A few years ago this temple was used as a sugar-refinery. An excursion may be taken from Cuernavaca to the famous cave of Cacahuamilpa, which lies in a limestone re gion, about forty miles south of the city. It can be reached THE CITY OF MEXICO AND ENVIRONS. 201 by wagon or horseback. As no hotel accommodations are to be had, the tourist is advised to carry blankets and pro visions for three days. The cave has not yet been fully ex plored. A trip to Tasco (fifty-four miles distant) may also be made from Cuernavaca. The town contains silver-mines that were worked before the Conquest. It has also a beau tiful parish church. The altitude of Tasco is 5,852 feet, according to Humboldt. 5. From Mexico to Cuautla. This excursion may include the great volcano of Popo catepetl. (The entire route is described in Section VIII.) Indian Hut m the Tierra Caliente. SECTION IV. The Mexican National Railway (Compania Gonstmctora Nacional Mexicana), (For description of this railway, see Part First.) We will first sketch the western branch of this railway, from Mexico to Manzanillo, on the Pacific coast, and then give an account of the northern route, from Acambaro Junction to Laredo and Corpus Christi. The region adja cent to the railroad, and connections by stage and horseback with stations along the line, will be described in detail. Route I. FROM THE CITY OE MEXICO TO MANZANILLO. 1. Mexico to Toluca. 2. Toluca to Maravatio. 3. Maravatio to Morelia. 4. Morelia to Pdtzcuaro and thence to Manzanillo. 5. Pdtzcuaro via Ario to Jorullo. 1. From Mexico to Toluca, 73 kilometres, or 45J miles. Time, 3J hours. Two passenger-trains daily. Take left-hand side of the train for view. Leaving the station of Colonia, the line passes over the fertile plain of Mexico. The castle of Chapultepec is seen on the left. The first station is Union de Tacuba (4-59 kilometres) ; the next station is Union de Naucalpan (8-62 kilometres). Now the land begins to rise, and the grade soon becomes very heavy. Passing the hamlet of San Bar- tolo (9-18 kilometres), we reach Rio Hondo (14*28 kilome- THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 203 tres), where the elevation is 7,550 feet, or 203 feet above the capital. The track soon enters the foot-hills of the ridge forming the western boundary of the valley of Mexico. There are many cuts through the alluvial drift and clay. Nopales, or cactus-trees, are very common in the vicinity of the line of the railroad. After passing Rio Hondo a heavy grade begins. The train crosses gulches, with roaring brooks at the bottom. On the northern side of the track, and near the station of San Bartolito (22-09 kilometres), traces of an ancient aque duct are seen. We soon pass through a cut in granite rock, and then stop at the station of Dos Rios (27*15 kilometres). The road now enters a picturesque valley half a mile in breadth, where some maize is grown. The farms are di vided by long hedges of the maguey, which appear to take the place of fences. The natives cover the roofs of their huts with heavy stones, to prevent the wind from blowing them away. The traveler will observe towers about ten feet high adjoining the houses. They are cribs for storing corn, and are called cincolotes. This region has a sparse population ; only a few huts of stone and straw are to be seen. The track skirts the sides of enormous ravines or barrancas. The next station is Via de Escape Tunnel (30*46 kilometres). We can now look across the valley, where the track is much higher than our place of observation. After passing through the tunnel and winding round long curves, having in places a compen sated grade of about four per cent, the tourist, on glancing back, will have a fine view of the distant valley of Mexico, with the stately capital and picturesque sierras beyond. The famous home of the Aztecs appears to be surrounded by lakes. The valley below the line of the railroad bears the name of San Lazar, and the hamlet on the hill bound ing the south side of the caiion is called San Franciscito. We next reach the station of Escape de San Martin (35*30 204 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. kilometres). The pines, spruces, and other trees of a stunted character, remind the traveler that he has ascend ed to a great elevation. Leaving the valley and going through . several cuts in the solid rock, the train arrives at Cima, or Summit (39*12 kilometres). This is the highest point of the railroad, and would be called the "divide" by Americans. Its elevation is 9,974 feet above tide-water. It is the highest railway-station in Mexico. The brook on the south side of the track, which the tourist has just passed, is the Rio Hondo. It flows into the valley of Mexico ; while the little stream on the north side of the railroad is the south fork of the Rio Lerma (one of the largest rivers of the Eepublic), which, after traversing the States of Mexico, Michoacan, and Guanajuato, empties into the Lake of Chapala. The rock at Cima is a reddish trachyte, and is used to ballast the track. The road now crosses a flat, grassy plateau. The next station is Salazar (41*29 kilometres). There is a bar as well as a lunch-room in the station. The scenery in the vicinity closely resembles that of the Eocky Mountains. The pines and spruces attain a considerable height. The grade soon begins to descend, and the view henceforth is better on the right-hand side of the car. The train follows the course of the Rio Lerma, crosses the old stage-road, and arrives at the station Camino de Toluca (44*51 kilometres). The tourist may now see the majestic snow-clad mountain, the Nevado de Toluca, an extinct volcano, 15,156 feet high, and about twenty miles distant. The track crosses a bridge built over a ravine. An aque duct is being constructed at the bottom, to carry the water of the Rio Lerma to the flour-mill at Jajalpa. Soon the station of Jajalpa (51 *24 kilometres) is reached. Here the elevation is 8,872 feet. It is worthy of remark that one of the few steam flour-mills in the country is found at this town. Wood is brought from the neighboring hills for THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 205 fuel. Fine wheat grows here, and the maguey is also cul tivated. The track now winds round many long curves, and presently a grand view of the broad valley of Toluca is obtained. Looking out of the car-window, the observer may see the line of the road far below him. The next station is Camino de Ocoyoacac (55*40 kilo metres). The train runs along the side of the mountains, and soon the town of Ocoyoacac is seen in the plain below. The streets are well laid out, and there is considerable stir on the plaza, but the church is by far the most conspicu ous object, as it is in other Mexican and Spanish towns. We now arrive at the station of Lerma (59*55 kilometres). The elevation of this place is 8,456 feet. The houses of Lerma are built of adobe, with tile roofs. Much maguey is grown. in the vicinity. The pulque from the valley of To luca is famous. The road runs over the plain for about eight miles, and the next station is Toluca, 73 kilometres from the capital. This place, with perhaps the exception of Ameca-meca, in the State of Mexico, is the city of the highest altitude in the Eepublic, being 8,653 feet above the sea-level. The Nevado de Toluca, an extinct volcano several miles to the south, is the most prominent feature in the landscape for many miles. This mountain is often cloud-capped. TOLUCA. Population, 11,500. Hotels. — Gran Sociedad, Espagnol, Hidalgo, and Bella Union. There are also several restaurants and caf6s. Baths, in the Calle de Victoria. Teatro principal, behind the Hotel Gran Sociedad. Places of Interest. — 1. Carmen church and monastery. 2. Church of Vera Cruz. 3. Plaza de los Marliros, where a monument in white marble, about twelve feet high, has been erected to the great patriot Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla. 4. Palacio Municipal. 5. The Pasco. Toluca is a well-built and thriving town. The streets are clean and well drained. The tourist may obtain a 206 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. correct idea of the topography of Toluca and environs by walking up the hill on the southwestern side of the city. It is not more than fifteen minutes' walk from the principal hotels. A pleasant excursion may be made to the Nevado de Toluca (15,156 feet high). This mountain is always snow- clad, but in winter it is covered with snow for about one third of the way down from the summit. There is a ranch on the ridge, just below the timber-line, where the traveler can pass the night. A very extensive view may be obtained from the top of the volcano. On a clear day the Pacific Ocean, one hundred and sixty miles distant, is visible * and it is said that the Gulf of Mexico can even be seen with a powerful field-glass. Baron von Humboldt ascended the peak of Toluca on the 29th of September, 1803, and measured the height of the mountain by the barometer. He states that the highest point, the Pico del Fraile, is difficult of ascent, and the very top is scarcely ten feet wide.* Humboldt found the rock to be a combination of oligoclase and hornblende (diorite). Two entire days will be required to climb the Nevado de Toluca — i. e., from the city of Toluca and back. The traveler should take provis ions, blankets, guides, and horses sufficient for the journey. 2. From Toluca to Maravatio, 150 kilometres, or 93 miles. Time, 7 hours. Leaving Toluca, the road continues due west along the broad valley. Much wheat is grown in the vicinity. One farmer sold seventy-seven thousand dollars' worth last year (1882). The next station is Del Rio (97 kilometres). The railway-station is in a freight-car on a siding. The line soon winds along the bank of the Rio Lerma, with bluffs of a clayey limestone on one side. We pass through the tunnel of Lxtlahuaca, and reach the station of * See Cosmos, vol. v, p. 376. THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 207 the same name (111*50 kilometres). Here the elevation is 8,423 feet. The town lies about a mile north of the track. The traveler may see the boundary-line of the States of Mexico and Michoacan near by. Stone monuments about three feet high are placed in the ground every thousand yards. One of them is very close to the railroad. Pres ently the line crosses the Rio Lerma and continues through a fertile country. Good pastures for cattle abound here, and the tourist can see many fine haciendas from the car- window. The track has usually been laid some distance from the hamlets and villages. Hogs are raised in con siderable numbers on the estates along the line of the To luca and Maravatio division of the National Eailway, and yet no one has had the enterprise to put up hams for do mestic use. The natives seem to prefer to import Ameri can hams at 50 cents and those of Westphalia at 62£ cents a pound. It is believed that hams could be sent from Toluca to the capital and sold at a handsome profit for 20 cents a pound. This is only one out of many business chances that await the American or European settler in Mexico. Flor de Maria (133 *90 kilometres) is the next station. Here the conductor calls out in English, "Half an hour for dinner." The dining-room consists of a freight-car, and the kitchen is in an adjoining car on a siding. The tourist is agreeably surprised at finding an excellent dinner served in such a primitive eating-house. Six reales is the price charged. We soon come to the station of La Jor- dana (149*90 kilometres). The next station is El Oro (164 kilometers), where the elevation is 8,344 feet. There are mines containing gold and silver on the hill-side about four miles southwest of this place. A New York company owns them. A forty-stamp mill has been erected at great cost, owing to the machinery having been trans ported, first over the Mexican Eailway with its enormous 208 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. rates, and then by wagon-road to El Oro. The ore is worked in the same manner as in California. The country rock is slate. The main shaft of the mines at El Oro is now full of water, and steam-pumps are about to be used to raise it. Gold-mines are found also at Tlalpujahua, nine miles from El Oro station. A stage-coach runs to them. These mines are among the oldest in Mexico, and were worked before the Conquest. It may be remarked that there is a great deal of undeveloped mineral wealth in the State of Michoacan. The well-known mining districts of Trojes, Chapatuato, Ozumatlan, and Sinda, can be reached in two days on horseback. The ores of gold and silver with a quartz gangue occur here. But, as the tourist will have difficulty in procuring horses and provisions at El Oro, the journey to these mining districts can be made more easily from Morelia, the capital of the State. Eeturning to the railroad, take the left-hand side of the train for the view after leaving El Oro. We now cross the State line again, as the track is built partly in the State of Mexico and partly in Michoacan. The next station is Canon (167*70 kilometres). Near by the tourist may see the ruins of a stone dam, where a supply of water was formerly stored for the benefit of cattle and sheep grazing in the vicinity. Soon the road-bed begins to descend rapidly and enters the Canon de los Zopilotes, or Turkey-Buzzard Caflon. The creek of El Salto runs through the caiion and forms a cascade, which is a grand sight in the rainy season. The track has been blasted out of the solid basalt rock, and is a skillful piece of engineering. The canon is about a mile long, and the observer on looking down may see a trail at the bottom running along the course of the roaring tor rent. Trails are very common all over Mexico, as horse back-riding has been the principal means of communica tion up to the present day. Nearly every canon, valley, THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 209 and plain can be traversed by a bridle-path. The railroad soon makes a sharp turn, and leaves the Caiion de los Zopi lotes. The grade is still very heavy. A fine view of the broad and fertile valley below presents itself to the eye, and the observer will soon notice a cliff about two hundred feet high, on the right-hand side of the track, called the Salto de Medina. The cliff was so named after Medina, the chief of a noted band of brigands. He had been pursued to the edge of the precipice, and, finding escape impossible, blinded his mule with a zarape, and, spurring his animal, jumped off the cliff to prevent the officers of the law from capturing him. The line now runs along the side of the broad valley, making several long curves, and reaches the station of Solis (176*50 kilometres). The country is cov ered with basaltic rock, and tanks for watering live-stock are seen in places. Tepetongo is the next station (185*70 kilometres), and has an elevation of 7,652 feet. The region is overgrown with nopal-trees and the bush known as hui- sachi, resembling the mesquite. After passing the station of Pomoca (205*50 kilometres), we reach Maravatio (223-20 kilometres). The elevation of this town is 6,612 feet, and the population is about 10,000. (Hotel, Diligencias.) The town lies in a broad, grassy plain, surrounded by ridges of mountains. There is nothing of special interest to the traveler here. Maravatio is eleven hours' journey from the City of Mexico. Another and shorter route from the capital to this town has been surveyed — i. e., the continu ation of the division of El Salto, the line running north ward from the capital, via Tlalnepantla, Cuautitlan, and Huehuetoca, to the station of El Salto, 67*29 kilometres from the capital. On November 1, 1883, only four kilo metres of this line were constructed beyond El Salto. The Mexican Central Eailway also runs to El Salto, and the country adjoining the latter road will be described in Sec tion V. 210 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. 8. From Maravatio to Morelia, 155 kilometres, or 96 miles. The track from Maravatio to Acambaro was finished in February, 1883. The distance is 63 kilometres. The line of the railway is several miles to the eastward of the old diligence-road. The stations are, Zirizicuaro (22*34 kilo metres), Taranddcuao (31*34 kilometres), San Jose (41*34 kilometres), and Acambaro (63 kilometres). The region traversed by the route is not much cultivated, and there are only three hamlets along the line. Basaltic rock cov ers the country, and there is but little vegetation besides the nopal, huisachi, mesquite, and piru trees. Much wheat and Indian corn could be produced here, but at present very little is grown. The train reaches Acambaro in about three hours. ACAMBARO. Elevation, 6,084 feet at the railroad-junction ; population, about 8,000. Hotel. — Nacional, one block from the jolaza. The town lies in a broad valley, and is destined to increase in population as soon as the two branches of the Mexican National Eailway are finished. One branch ex tends northward to Celaya, via Salvatierra, a distance of 42£ miles, and thence via San Luis Potosi and Monterey to the frontier; the other runs to Morelia, 57 miles dis tant, and thence to Pdtzcuaro and Manzanillo on the Pa cific. The branch to Celaya was completed in July, 1883. If the tourist does not wish to travel farther westward, he can take the train to Celaya, which is on the line of the Mexican Central Eailway, and return to the capital by the latter road, thus making a round trip from Mexico that will give him an excellent idea of the agricultural and mineral resources of the region traversed by the two principal American trunk lines. The division of the National Eailway to Morelia was opened on September 12, 1883. THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 211 Leaving Acambaro, the road trends over the plain to the south, and then goes southwestward for several miles, when the picturesque Lake of Cuitzeo is seen. The level of this lake is 6,021 feet, or 63 feet lower than Acambaro. Lake Cuitzeo is about 18 miles long, and affords good fishing. There are several islets in the lake, and it is surrounded by low hills. The stations are Summit Siding (14 kilometres), Andocutin (31*50 kilometres), Huingo (38*50 kilometres), Querendaro (49 kilometres), Quirio (63 kilometres), Charo (74 kilometres), La Goleta (76 kilometres), Atapaneo (80 kilometres), and Morelia (92 kilometres). MORELIA. Population, about 20,400. Elevation, 6,202 feet. Hotels. — Soledad and Diligencias. Baths. — Del Recreo, and in the Hotel Soledad. The city lies in a basin. It is the capital of the State of Michoacan, is well built, and has clean streets. There is not much wealth in Morelia, but a large number of the inhabitants are well-to-do. At the present time a few build ings are in course of erection, especially the College of San Jose, with an ornamental facade. Many of the houses are built of a pinkish trachyte, which is brought from a quarry about a mile from the city. This stone, however, does not weather well, and, after exposure to the atmosphere for a few years, the buildings made of it appear to be quite old. Most of the dwelling-houses are of one story, while, on the main street and near the plaza, many of the shops are in buildings having two and sometimes three stories. Places of Interest. — 1. The Cathedral (well worth seeing). 2. The Palace. 3. The Paseo. 4. Several of the churches may be visited to ad vantage, if the tourist is not pressed for time. The Cathedral occupies an entire block, and is built in the Spanish renaissance style. The wood-work of the choir 212 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. (coro) is finely carved. Formerly the passage-way from the choir to the high altar was inclosed with a silver railing, but during the revolution the Liberals entered the edifice and confiscated the precious metal. The silver doors on the tabernacles of the side chapels still remain. The fonts are of Mexican onyx, brought from Puebla, three hundred miles distant. It is said that the Cathedra] received upward of $4,000,000 from the owners of mines in the neighborhood (at Ozumatlan), between the years 1758 and 1858. The inhabitants of Morelia worship the outside as well as the inside of the Cathedral, and it is customary for men to re move their hats while passing it. The stranger renders himself liable to insult if he fails to observe this usage. A Mexican peasant will often kneel in passing this holy of holies. In Morelia, as in some other cities, the people gen erally bow to the priest, or padre, whether they know him or not. When the priest wishes to administer the last rites of the Church to a person in articulo mortis, he repairs to the house in a close carriage, drawn by two white mules. It is usual to kneel in the streets while this carriage is passing, and the tourist will give great offense to the by-standers if he does not conform to this practice. Before the overthrow of the clerical party, the host was borne through the streets by a sort of procession, arranged as follows : First, a man with a bell ; then the coach containing the sacrament, or es- tufa ; then six attendants on each side of it, carrying large lanterns or torches ; and three soldiers in the rear. Protestants have often been mobbed or arrested, and in a few cases killed, for refusing to kneel on the approach of the host. The late Bishop Haven relates that, in the year 1824, in the City of Mexico, an American shoemaker was at work on his bench, near the doorway, on the first floor of a house. Presently the bell announced the coming of the priest bear ing the host. A Mexican stepped into this doorway, and, kneeling on the floor, turned to see if the shoemaker was THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 213 following his example. The cobbler had dropped his tools, and was kneeling on the top of his bench, when the zealous Catholic requested that he should get down and kneel on the floor. The American refused to do so, whereupon the Mexican drew his knife and inflicted a mortal wound on him. The news spread rapidly through the city, and it was only at the risk of the life of an American clergyman living in the capital that the murdered man received a Christian burial. Travelers should remember that Morelia has always been a stronghold of the priesthood, and that, although the power of the Church is gone in most of the States, it still holds its own in Michoacan. The Palace next demands our attention. It is a well- built and commodious edifice of two stories, and contains the offices of the State Government and the custom-house. The governmental printing-office is also in the Palace. A • large room on the second story contains the State Library, which is composed of many rare and old volumes, taken from the convents and monasteries during revolutions. Some of the books are written on the canon law in Latin, and bound in the most costly style. The front part of the second story of this building consists of the Gov ernor's office, and the reception-room, or Sala de Reunion. The latter apartment is furnished with ornamental black- walnut sofas and chairs, covered with silk, and which were made in Morelia. In the Hall of Congress, or Sala del Congreso, on the first floor of the Palace, there is a statue of Hidalgo, the Mexican Washington, and a portrait of the liberator, ' Ocampo, speaking in the national palace at the capital. Ocampo was one of the leaders of the anti-clerical party, and rendered such gallant service to the State of Michoacan during the revolution that the inhabitants named the State after him, so that its full name is Michoacan de Ocampo. After the tourist has visited the principal buildings, a 214 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. walk to the Paseo will be found interesting. Large ash- trees (fresnos) grow here, and the gardens are well laid out and planted with flowers. We may add that there are fine cedars and cypress-trees in the yard of the Carmen Church, on the north side of the city. The traveler may rest a few days in Morelia to advan tage. The time may be passed in visiting the other build ings not already mentioned — such as the municipal palace ; the cemetery, or campo santo, inclosed with high adobe walls ; the smaller churches and vacant convents ; the- cot ton-factory ; or some of the colleges and schools. The climate of Morelia is salubrious. The water is, however, muddy, and must be passed through large stone filters before it can be used. Morelia was founded on the 23d of April, 1541, by provision of the viceroy, Antonio de Mendoza. During the Spanish domination it received the name of Vallado- lid, in honor of the Viceroy Mendoza, whose birthplace in Spain bore that name. In 1828 the Legislature of Micho acan enacted that the city should be called Morelia, in memory of Jose Maria Morelos, a hero of the War of Inde pendence, who was born in this place. Many excursions can be made from Morelia, especially to the mining districts lying to the east and southeast. Chapatuato is sixty miles by trail. Gold is found in a fis sure-vein, associated with galena, pyrites, and antimonial ores. The country rock is slate. Ozumatlan is thirty miles distant. Here gold occurs in trachyte. Sinda lies at about the same distance from Morelia, and its miner als are similar to those just mentioned. In the autumn of 1880 a company was formed in New York to develop these mining regions. It was known as the Michoacan Syndicate. Mining engineers were sent to Mexico from New York, and a favorable report was published, from which the above particulars are taken. Labor is abundant THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 215 here, at prices ranging from three to four reales a day. It is believed that the completion of the railroad to Morelia will be of great benefit to these mines, which are now owned largely by residents of this city, who have not sufficient capital to work them, and are willing to sell at a fair valuation. It may be remarked that Michoacan still contains an immense amount of undeveloped mineral wealth. Besides gold and silver, copper and iron are abun dant. An excursion may also be taken to Zintzuntzan, about twenty miles distant. This town was the seat of the court of the ancient kings of Michoacan ; it had a population of 40,000. To-day its edifices are destroyed, its streets de serted, and its few inhabitants are extremely ignorant. In the environs many mounds exist that are said to conceal the ancient palaces of the kings of Michoacan. There are also many buildings in which precious antiquities would be found if these hills should be excavated and examined. A great deal of pottery is now made here. The cities of Zamora, La Barca, and La Piedad, and the brown-coal deposits of Xiquilpan, may be reached from Morelia by horse-roads. In closing the chapter on Morelia, it may be said that, at present, but two foreign corporations are carrying on mining and smelting operations in the vicinity — one English and one American. The State Gov ernment is trying to increase the cultivation of the silk worm and of cotton, and it is hardly necessary to add that Michoacan affords excellent opportunities for investment to foreigners having some capital. 4. From Morelia to Patzcuaro, and thence to Manzanillo. There are two lines of diligences from Morelia to Pdtz cuaro, running three times a week. The fare is $2 for each passenger. The distance is forty miles, and the trip re quires eight hours. The scenery along the route is pictur- 216 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. esque ; but, unfortunately, the road is one of the very roughest in Mexico. A part of it is paved with basaltic bowlders, on account of the frequent rains in the neighbor hood. Leaving Morelia, the diligence travels up-hill for about ten miles, until the summit of a low divide is reached. Then the road descends to a small village, where the mules are changed. Proceeding farther, the tourist enters a val ley, with lofty and densely timbered ridges, or sierras, on either side. A few extinct volcanoes are seen, and the pre vailing rock is blue amygdaloidal basalt. The worst part of the road has now been passed, and soon the stage-coach stops, to change animals for the last time. There is very little vegetation along this route. Traveling over an as cending grade for several miles, the observer obtains a view of the eastern end of the beautiful Lake of Pdtzcuaro. In half an hour the driver halts in front of the Hotel Dili- gencias. PATZCUARO. Population, about 8,000. Elevation, 6,717 feet, according to the surveys of the Mexican National Eailway engineers. We may state that the line of this railroad has been graded to within a few rods of the town ; but the officers of the company have as yet made no announcement of the time when this branch of the road will be completed. Alexander von Humboldt visited this region in 1803, and computed the elevation of this town to be about 500 feet higher than that above given, according to barometric measurement. The word " Patz cuaro " means a place of pleasure in the Indian language. The houses are mostly of one story. The streets are nar row and winding, but the plazas are ample, and often filled with fruit-venders. This city was formerly a resort of the ancient kings of Michoacan, and after the Conquest it be came the capital of the province. There is a large Indian population here, who speak the THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 217 Tarasc dialect, especially on the lake, which is two and a half miles from the town. The picturesque Lake of Pdtzcuaro is about thirty miles in circumference. Its shape is irregular, the greatest length being about thirteen miles from northeast to southwest. There are five small islands in the lake, bearing the names of Xanicho, Pacanda, Xaracuaro, Yuguan, and Tecuen. The first one is inhabited. The view from the hills near the town, of the lake surrounded by densely timbered mount ains, and with the surface dotted by islets, and the white houses on the side of Xanicho, is beautiful beyond descrip tion. It reminds the traveler of the famous Lago Mag- giore. Among other writers who have remarked upon the beauty of the landscape are Madame Calderon de la Barca and Baron von Humboldt. A recent English author of a book on Mexico states, that the former has published to the world the most entertaining work ever written on the land of the Aztecs. The Indians living on the Lake of Pdtzcuaro very closely resemble the Pueblos of New Mexico and Arizona. The tourist can visit the islands in one of their " dug-out " pine canoes (canoas). Paddles with circular blades are used in the canoes by both women and men. Perhaps no spot in the country deserves the name of " primitive Mexico " better than Lake Pdtzcuaro. Several excursions may be made from Pdtzcuaro. The most convenient one is to Uruapan, forty-seven miles by trail to the southwest. There are two small hotels and a cotton-factory in Uruapan. The cotton is of excellent quality, and is brought from the west (Acapulco) coast by pack-mules. Much pottery is made here, and the town lies in the midst of a coffee and sugar growing district. The coffee of Michoacan is generally considered to be the best in Mexico, with the single exception of that from Co lima. An arroba of coffee (25 pounds) costs $3 at Urua- 218 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. pan, and at Pdtzcuaro it is worth 30 reales. These figures will give the traveler an idea of the great expense of trans portation by mule-back ; i. e., the price for carrying coffee in sacks forty-seven miles is at the rate of three cents a pound ! There is a cascade near the town worthy of a visit. Besides sugar-cane and coffee, Peruvian bark (quina) and many medicinal plants, as well as an infinite variety of fruits, are grown in the environs of Uruapan. Twenty thousand barrels of native rum (aguardiente) are made an nually in the district of Uruapan. The word " Uruapan " comes from Urani, which means in the Tarasc language " a chocolate-cup " (jicara), because the Indians in this region devote themselves to the manufacture and painting of these objects, in which industry they have thus far excelled. The line of railroad from Pdtzcuaro via Uruapan to Colima has been surveyed, but it will doubtless be many years before it is completed. The tourist can visit Tancitaro, 40 miles from Urua pan, and, if he wishes, travel all the way to the Pacific coast. It will be advisable to purchase a horse if the trav eler intends going beyond Uruapan. A good animal can be bought for about $40, and one able to accomplish the trip to Colima could be had for $25. The climate of Tan citaro is cool, the town being situated at the base of a peak of the same name, having an altitude of 11,037 feet. There are many gardens of pears, peaches, and apples in the vicin ity. A horse-road leads from Tancitaro to Colima, a dis tance of about 100 miles. The latter place is celebrated for producing the finest coffee in the Eepublic. It is pro nounced to be equal to the best Mocha. The berry is of small size. The State of Colima yields annually about 1,980,000 pounds of coffee, valued at $225,000. Some of it is exported to Germany. Cotton, rice, sugar-cane, and indigo are also cultivated in this State. The city of Colima, situated on the river of the same THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 219 name, has a population of 32,000 souls, which is equal to half the number of inhabitants of the entire State. There are some French, German, and English settlers. The volcano of Colima, 11,140 feet high, lies near the city. It is snow- clad in winter, but the summer sun melts the white cover ing. This peak is conspicuously seen far out to sea, being only 25 miles from the coast. A wagon-road goes from Colima to Manzanillo, about 70 miles distant. The latter ¦BSDm The City of Colima. town is the terminus of the western branch of the Mexican National Eailway. The distance from the national capital is 615 miles. The Pacific Mail steamers touch at Manza nillo once a month. Manzanillo is 1,685 miles from San Francisco, Cal., and 1,742 miles from Panama. It may be remarked that the Hon. William H. Seward landed at Manzanillo in 1869, and traveled into the interior via Colima and Guadalajara. He received a most enthu siastic reception. 220 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. The usual plan of building railways in Mexico, i. e;, to begin at both ends, and work toward an intermediate point, has been adopted by the Mexican National Eailway Company, and on October 1, 1883, about thirty miles of track had been laid from Manzanillo to Colima. The dis tance between the two towns via Armeria is 60 miles by rail. Leaving Colima, the Mexican National line makes a great bend to the northeast, curves around the northern side of Lake Chapala, and then runs southeasterly to More lia via Zamora. The railroad from Manzanillo to Morelia will be about 380 miles long. (See chapter on railways in Part First.) The climate of Manzanillo is unhealthy for Europeans, and the tourist is advised not to linger long in the vicinity. 6. From Patzcuaro via Ario to Jorullo ; * distance, 55 miles by horse-road. This is a rough trip, owing to the absence of wagon- roads and hotels along the route. It has charms, however, especially to the geologist and lover of natural scenery ; and the traveler will be amply repaid for the four or five days of comparative hardship necessary for the journey. Tourists should hire saddle-horses in Pdtzcuaro. If there are two or three in the party, it will be expedient to take a man-servant or mozo. Three horses and a mozo can be ob tained at the rate of $4 daily, and the price of stabling. The cost of feeding each horse will be about one real a day. If the traveler wishes to go alone, and is able to talk in Spanish, a mozo will be unnecessary, although useful. Leaving the quaint town of Pdtzcuaro, the road as cends for about two miles, when a densely- wooded plateau is reached. This route, formerly practicable for wagons, is well paved with stone on the heavy grades, and passes * Pronounced hoar-rool-yo. THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 221 through a region where considerable wheat, maize, and bar ley are cultivated. On reaching the top of the hill, the observer may obtain a magnificent view of the Lake of Pdtz cuaro, with the vast rolling country beyond. The hamlet of Santa. Clara is soon reached. There are copper-smelt ing works here, charcoal being used for fuel. The ore is brought in leathern sacks on mule-back from Churumuco Manzanillo Bay. and Inguaran, about 65 miles distant. It is worth from $10 to $20 per carga (300 pounds). Proceeding farther, the traveler will traverse a well-timbered district. Stately ash-trees line the streets of one of the villages, and the for ests in the neighborhood contain fine spruces and pines. A French settler is about to erect a steam saw-mill here. A great deal of freight is carried along this route. One 222 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. meets many pack-trains of mules coming chiefly from Acapulco, which is 290 miles from Pdtzcuaro. A train is usually composed of forty mules with five men who act as packers, or cargadores. A day's journey is sixteen miles. Mules are worth from $35 to $40 in this part of Mexico, and an aparejo, or leathern pack-saddle, costs $5. The men who accompany the pack-trains usually ride horses, and are armed with the largest size of revolvers. Most of the freight goes northward. It consists largely of the cotton that grows in the State of Guerrero, and which is put up in bales of about 150 pounds each. A good mule will carry two bales all day. Kegs of brandy, boxes of wine, small wares, and, of course, provisions and cooking utensils for the packers, are also carried by the mule-trains. On the return trip toward the Pacific coast, many of the animals go without a load, so that the tourist can secure transportation for himself and baggage if desirous of going to Acapulco. As the traveler approaches Ario, a beautiful view is presented from a point about two miles from the town. The "Coast Eange," or the southern part of the Sierra Madre, is visible, together with the broad plain at the base, the surface of which is dotted with numerous hillocks or serrillos. The undulating contour of the table-land, which has just been crossed, can be traced for miles. The most prominent object in the landscape, however, is the lofty mountain to the southward, known as "La Estancia de los Padres," or the fathers' mansion. This picturesque hill is formed of two dome-shaped masses of rock rising from a common base. The slopes are very steep, and the summit appears to be inaccessible from the northern side. Hum boldt sketched this mountain while in Michoacan, and a picture of it may be found in his collection of views of Mexico. The observer can also see substantially the same landscape from the Alameda, just outside of Ario, and THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 223 about fifteen minutes' walk from the plaza. It is best to go to the Alameda in the afternoon, just as the sun sinks behind the lofty Sierra Madre. The plain with its wavy- surface appears like an inland sea, while the scattered hil locks resemble islets. The road now enters Ario. The population amounts to 3,000, and the altitude is 6,358 feet, according to Hum- A Pack-train. boldt, or 866 feet lower than Pdtzcuaro, which is 31 miles distant. There are no hotels, but the town can boast of four mesones, that furnish accommodation for travelers and cattle or sheep. The Meson de Ocampo is the best, although to assure a good night's rest the tourist should sprinkle flea-powder 11 224 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. over the sheets of his bed. The principal restaurant is the Fonda de la Bella Union, about half a block east of the plaza. The inhabitants of the town are very polite to strangers. Travelers should, if possible, procure letters of recommendation to residents in the neighboring villages which they intend to visit. The prefect of police will send an escort of soldiers to Jorullo, or any other place in his district, if asked. The expense of the escort will be nothing, but a small gratuity should be given to the ser geant in command. The environs of Ario are very fertile, and many excellent farms that produce rice, sugar-cane, pepper, fruit, etc., may be easily visited. Fine horses and cattle are also reared. The climate of Ario is temperate and very healthful. The town is, however, a sort of " jumping-off" place. The land on the south and south west of Ario descends rapidly, and a few hours' journey brings one into the "hot country." A Mexican writer has named it "the mouth of the tierra caliente." The inhabitants feel the want of a wagon- road that would facilitate transportation of the valuable staple products to the State of Guerrero or to some of the ports on the Pacific. Excursions may be taken to Tacambaro, 20 miles to the eastward, or to Uruapan on the west. The former town produces much sugar and rum. The latter place has been described on page 217. Leaving Ario, the road leads to La Play a, at the base of the famous volcano of Jorullo, about 24 miles distant. We notice several haciendas, and some groves of pine and oak along the route. The country is gently rolling for sev eral leagues. After traversing a forest, the path becomes narrow and uneven. Suddenly it descends rapidly over rocky ground to a small hacienda. The road is paved with cobble-stones for some dis tance, and the hamlet of Tejamanil is soon reached. The THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 225 tourist is now in the tierra caliente. The houses in the village are made of cane-stalks and thatched chiefly with palm-leaves ; but the principal building is of two stories, and built of adobe, with a roof of red tiles. There is a store in the latter, and a fondita adjoining. The accom modations here are primitive, but it is the best place for the traveler to stop at, unless he has letters to the govern mental inspector of police, who lives at La Playa, three miles farther on. There are fields of sugar-cane near by. Bananas and the indigo-plant also grow here. The main occupation of the natives is to collect palm-leaves from the adjoining hacienda, and cut them up in strips, taking the thin fibers for brooms, brushes, etc. The long strips of palm are folded over and packed together with tight cords. They are made into bundles about five feet long and a foot and a half in diameter, and carried to Ario on the backs of men and donkeys. It should be said that there are many porters in this section of the country. They trans port mostly pottery and dressed palm-leaves, and travel about twenty miles daily with a load in this warm climate. The author saw a porter without a load walk thirty-one miles in seven and a half hours. He kept up with the writer's horse for the greater part of the distance. There is a native sugar-mill near Tejamanil, where the cane is put in a sort of hopper, and then passed through wooden roll ers. The power is furnished by a yoke of oxen attached to a long shaft as in a horse-whim. The road descends all the way to the hamlet of Puerta de la Playa, containing about a dozen huts, besides the house and store of the inspector of police, Don Francisco de Vega. Indigo (anil) grows in the river-bottom behind Sefior Vega's residence. It is a wild bush about four feet high, and has a thin bark. The leaf resembles a fern. The Indians prepare it for the market by pounding the 226 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. seeds with a huge wooden hammer and extracting the juice. The climate of La Playa is dry and very hot. The ther mometer in the winter season reaches 90° Fahr. at midday. It is much warmer in summer. The soil consists of dark volcanic sand, and it is called mal pais — i. e., bad country. The region abounds with dangerous insects, such as scor pions, spiders, etc. A few rattlesnakes are found here. The traveler is advised to shake out his boots in the morn ing, as insects and reptiles are apt to crawl into them dur ing the night. Should he sleep in a Mexican hut, it will be expedient to keep on all clothing (including boots), on account of the vermin. During the French invasion a battalion of soldiers, numbering about five hundred, marched down to this cor ner of the Eepublic. After camping in the plain for a few days they returned to Ario, fully satisfied that the natives had been impressed with the importance of these Gallic visitors. The ultimate destination of the tourist, the well-known volcano of Jorullo, will now be described. The trail up the mountain leaves the Acapulco road at La Playa. The base of the cone of the volcano is about three miles distant. Whether the traveler passes the night at Tejamanil, or at Sefior Vega's residence, he should set out before day light (say 4 A. M.), in order to reach the summit and return before the sun becomes too hot. One hour will be requisite to go from Tejamanil to La Playa in the dark. Leaving the main road, the path traverses a barren sandy plateau covered with bowlders of black seoriaceous basalt. Pres ently the grade ascends, and we pass through underbrush and groves of the huisachi and tepejuaje trees. Horses can be ridden to within half a mile of the crater. A Mexi can peasant may be hired to act as guide for the sum of one dollar. He will take care of the tourist's horse, if no mozo THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 227 accompanies him, and point out the way to the summit, which can readily be ascended alone. About two hours will be necessary to arrive at the crater from the Puerta de la Playa. The scientific tourist will want to spend as much time on the volcano. A thermometer should be taken along to measure the temperature of the hot gases escaping from the fumaroles.The general direction of the moun tain-mass of Jorullo is north and south. The volcano is pear-shaped, the outlet of the crater being on the north side. The cone is covered with loose black ashes in which a few bushes grow, and its slope on the north and west sides is about forty-five degrees. The crater is about a mile in circumference, and. the diameter from north to south is estimated at 500 yards, the distance from east to west being a little less. The highest point is on the east side. According to Baron von Hum boldt's measurements, the summit of this volcano is 4,267 feet above the level of the sea, or 1,683 feet above the "Play as de Jorullo," which is probably the same place that now bears the name of Puerta de la Playa, often called simply La Playa. Many clefts and fumaroles are found in the edge of the crater. The writer took the temperatures of some of them as follows : aqueous vapor escaping from the west side was found to be 132° Fahr., and sulphurous-acid gas in afuma- role at the mouth of the crater had a mean temperature of 130° Fahr., the column of mercury rising and falling a few degrees while the thermometer was exposed to the hot vapor. The traveler can make the circuit of the crater without difficulty. Grass about four feet high, a few ferns, and tepejuaje and changungo (native trees), grow on the border. Deer are abundant on the mountain. There is an immense stream of lava on the north side, having a dark-red color, owing to the oxidation of the iron in the rock. It is com- 228 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. posed of scoriaceous basalt, and looks like the slag of a furnace. The rocks of Jorullo, however, are neither uniform in texture nor composition. They vary in color from black and red to gray and grayish white. Bluish basalt containing olivine occurs near the bottom of the crater, and whitish- gray trachyte forms the greater part of it. The latter rock is traversed with a few small veins of sulphur. The tourist may descend to the bottom of the mouth of the volcano, which is about 500 feet below the summit. The walls slant rapidly and are covered with an enormous mass of talus, containing many angular fragments of red and black rocks. Shocks of earthquake are often felt in the environs of Jorullo, extending sometimes as far as Mo relia, 60 miles distant. A recent earthquake (in March, 1883) was perceptible at Ario for the space of two minutes, and cracks were formed in the ground at a point ten miles off. Although no eruption has taken place for upward of a hundred years, this volcano is still in a semi-active state, as shown by the heat of the crater-walls, the emission of sulphurous gas and aqueous vapor, and the frequency of earthquakes. Another stream of lava might flow out of Jorullo at any time. The view from the summit next demands attention. It is very extensive. The eye follows the contour of the Sierra Madre to the westward for more than 100 miles, until the lofty volcano of Colima, capped with snow, bounds the horizon. The picturesque mountain, La Estancia de los Padres, is very conspicuous, and also the grassy plain in front of it, having a breadth of forty-five miles. On the south the country is much broken in outline, and to the eastward the observer may trace the undulating surface of the table-land. Looking northerly, one sees the sugar-cane fields and banana-groves near Tejamanil, whose bright verd- THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 229 ure forms a pleasant contrast to the greater part of the desert landscape. The tourist may also have an excellent view of the palm-tree hacienda in the valley, which yields an income of about $10,000 a year. It is the largest in Michoacan. The descent from the cone of Jorullo is easy, and the Puerta de la Playa can be reached in about an hour, the path being mostly down-grade. The appearance of Jorullo from the valley is worthy of mention. If the observer has time to geologize, let him speculate upon the original size of the plain before the eruption of 1759. This volcano is the culminating point of a narrow ridge about six miles long, and running due north and south. There are other hills of igneous rock on the eastern and northeastern bor ders of the plain. The valley of La Playa is now about a mile wide and six miles long. A rough estimate would make the breadth of it about eight miles before the eleva tion of Jorullo. Alexander von Humboldt explored this region in 1803, and wrote a lengthy account of the great volcano in his journal. It is also described both in the Essai Politique sur la Nouvelle Espagne and in the Cosmos. The follow ing extracts are taken from Otte and Dallas's translation of the Cosmos, vol. v, pages 291-300 : "In the series of Mexican volcanoes, . . . the most celebrated phe nomenon is the elevation of the newly-produced Jorullo, and its effusion of lava. . . . The eruption in a broad and long-peaceful plain, in the former province of Michoacan, in the night from the 28th to the 29th of Septem ber, 1759, at a distance of more than 120 miles from any other volcano, was preceded for fully three months, namely, from the 29th of June in the same year, by an uninterrupted and subterranean noise. . . . " The eruption of the new volcano, about three o'clock in the morning, was foretold the day before by a phenomenon which, in other eruptions, does not indicate their commencement, but their conclusion. At the point where the great volcano now stands there was formerly a thick wood of the Guayava. . . . 230 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. " Laborers from the sugar-cane fields (canaverales) of the Hacienda de San Pedro Jorullo . . . had gone out to collect the fruit of the guayava. When they returned to the farm (hacienda) it was remarked with astonish ment that their large straw hats were covered with volcanic ashes. Fis sures had consequently already opened in what is now called the Malpais, probably at the foot of the high basaltic dome El Cuiche, which threw out ashes (lapilli) before any change appears to have occurred in the plain. . . . " In the first hours of the night, the black ashes already lay a foot deep ; every one fled toward the hill of Aguasarco, a small Indian village, situated 2,409 feet higher than the old plain of Jorullo. " From this height (so runs the tradition) a large tract of land was seen in a state of fearful fiery eruption, and, ' in the midst of the flames (as those who witnessed the ascent of the mountain expressed themselves), there ap-, peared, like a black castle (castillo negro), u. great shapeless mass (bulto grande).' " From the small population of the district (the cultivation of indigo and cotton was then but very little carried on), even the force of long- continued earthquakes cost no human lives, although, as I learn from manu script record, houses were overturned by them near the copper-mines of Inguaran, in the small town of Patzcuaro, in Santiago de Ario, and many miles farther, but not beyond San Pedro Churumucu. In the Hacienda de Jorullo, during the general nocturnal flight, they forgot to remove a deaf and dumb negro slave. A mulatto had the humanity to return and save him, while the house was still standing. It is still related that he was found kneeling, with a consecrated taper in his hand, before the picture of Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. '' According to the tradition, widely and concordantly spread among the natives, the eruption during the first days consisted of great masses of rock, scoriae, sand, and ashes, but always combined with an effusion of muddy water. In the memorable report already mentioned, of the 19th of Octo ber, 1759, the author of which was a man who, possessing an accurate knowledge of the locality, describes what had only just taken place, it is expressly said : ' Que espele el dicho. Volcan arena, ceniza y agua.' "All eye-witnesses relate . . . that, before the terrible mountain made its appearance, . . the earthquakes and subterranean noises became more frequent ; but, on the day of the eruption itself, the flat soil was seen to rise perpendicularly, . . . and the whole became more or less inflated, so that blisters (vexigones) appeared, of which the largest is now the volcano. . . . " These inflated blisters of very various sizes, and partly of a tolerably regular conical form, subsequently burst . . . and threw boiling-hot earthy mud from their orifices, ... as well as scoriaceous stony masses, . . . THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 231 which are still found, at an immense distance, covered with black, stony masses. " These historical records, which we might, indeed, wish to see more complete, agree perfectly with what I learn from the mouths of the natives, fourteen years after the ascent of Antonio de Riafio.* To the questions whether ' the castle mountain ' was seen to rise gradually for months or years, or whether it appeared from the very first as an elevated peak, no answer could be obtained. " According to the tradition, the phenomena of small eruptions of water and mud, which were observed during the first days simultaneously with the incandescent scoriae, are ascribed to the destruction of two brooks, which, springing on the western declivity of the mountain of Santa Ines, and consequently to the east of the Cerro de Cuiche, abundantly irrigated the cane-fields of the former Hacienda de San Pedro de Jorullo, and flowed onward far to the west to the Hacienda de la Prcsentacion. Near their origin, the point is still shown where they disappeared in a fissure, with their formerly cold waters, during the elevation of the eastern border of the Malpais. Running below the hornilos, they reappear, according to the general opinion of the people of the country, heated in two thermal springs. . . . " In order to acquire a clear notion of the complicated outline and gen eral form of the surface of the ground in which such remarkable upheavals have taken place, we must distinguish hypsometrically and morphologically : " 1. The position of the volcanic system of Jorullo in relation to the average level of the Mexican plateau. 2. The convexity of the Malpais, which is covered with thousands of hornilos. 3. The fissure upon which six large volcanic mountain-masses have arisen. " On the western portion of the central Cordillera of Mexico, which strikes from south-southeast to north-northwest, the plain of the Playas de Jo rullo, at an elevation of only 2,557 feet above the level of the Pacific, forms one of the horizontal mountain terraces which everywhere in the Cor dilleras interrupt the line of inclination of the declivity, and consequently more or less impede the decrease of heat in the superposed strata of the atmosphere. " On descending from the central plateau of Mexico (whose mean eleva tion is 7,460 feet) to the corn-fields of Valladolid de Michoacan, to the charming Lake of Patzcuaro with the inhabited islet Janicho, and into the meadows around Santiago de Ario, which Bonpland and I found adorned with the dahlias, which have since become so well known, we have not de scended more than nine hundred or a thousand feet. * In 1803. 232 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. " But in passing from Ario on the steep declivity over Aguasarco, into the level of the old plain of Jorullo, wc diminish the absolute elevation in this short distance by from 3,850 to 4,250 feet. The roundish convex part of the upheaved plain is about 12,790 feet in diameter, so that its area is more than seven square miles. The true volcano of Jorullo and the five other mountains which rose simultaneously with it upon the same fissure, are so situated that only a small portion of the Malpais lies to the east of them. " Toward the west, therefore, the number of hornitos is much larger ; and when, in early morning, I issued from the Indian huts of the Playas de Jo- Jorullo. rullo or ascended a portion of the Cerro del Mirador, I saw the black volcano projecting very picturesquely above the innumerable white columns of smoke of the ' little ovens ' (hornitos). Both the houses of the Playas and the basaltic hill Mirador are situated upon the level of the old non-volcanic, or, to speak THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 233 more cautiously, unupheaved soil. Its beautiful vegetation, in which a multitude of salvias bloom beneath the shade of a new species of fan- palm ( Corypha pumas), and of a new alder (Alnus Jorullensis), contrasts with the desert, naked aspect of the Malpais. " The comparison of the height of the barometer, at the point where the upheaval commences in the Playas, with that at the point immediately at the foot of the volcano, gives 473 feet of relative perpendicular elevation. The house that we inhabited stood only about 500 toises (3,197 feet) from the border of the Malpais. At that place there was a small perpendicular precipice of scarcely twelve feet high, from which the heated water of the brook (Rio de San Pedro) falls down. " The portion of the inner structure of the soil, which I could examine at the precipice, showed black, horizontal, loamy strata, mixed with sand (lapilli). At other points which I did not see, Burkart has observed ' on the perpendicular boundary of the upheaved soil where the ascent of this is difficult, a light gray and not very dense (weathered) basalt, with numerous grains of olivine.' " This accurate and experienced observer has, however, like myself, on the spot, conceived the idea of a vesicular upheaval of the surface effected by elastic vapors, in opposition to the opinion of celebrated geognosists, who ascribe the convexity, which I ascertain by direct measurement, solely to the greater effusion of lava at the foot of the volcano. " The many thousand small eruptive cone3 (properly rather of a round ish or somewhat elongated oven-like form), which cover the upheaved sur face pretty uniformly, are on the average four to nine feet in height. They have risen almost exclusively on the western side of the great volcano, as, indeed, the eastern part toward the Cerro de Cuiche scarcely constitutes one twenty-fifth of the entire area of the vesicular elevation of the Playas. "Each of the numerous hornilos is composed of weathered basaltic spheres, with fragments separated like concentric shells ; I was frequently able to count from twenty-four to twenty-eight such shells. The balls are flattened into a somewhat spheroidal form, and are usually fifteen to eight een inches in diameter, but vary from one to three feet. The black basal tic mass is penetrated by hot vapors and broken up into an earthy form, although the nucleus is of greater density ; while the shells, when detached, exhibit yellow spots of oxide of iron. Even the soft, loamy mass which unites the balls is, singularly enough, divided into curved lamellae, which wind through all the interstices of the balls. " At the first glance I asked myself whether the whole, instead of weathered basaltic spheroids, containing but little olivine, did not perhaps present masses disturbed in the course of their formation. But in opposi- 234 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. tion to this we have the analogy of the hills of globular basalt, mixed with layers of clay and marl, which are found, often of very small dimensions, in the central chain of Bohemia, sometimes ' isolated and sometimes crowning long basaltic ridges at both extremities. " Some of the hornitos are so much broken up, or have such large inter nal cavities, that mules, when compelled to place their fore-feet upon the flatter ones, sink in deeply, while in similar experiments which I made the hills constructed by the termites resisted. In the basaltic mass of the hoi-- nitos I found no immersed scoria?, or fragments of old rocks which had been penetrated, as in the case of the lavas of the great Jorullo. The ap pellation homos or hornitos is especially justified by the circumstance that in each of them (I speak of the period when I traveled over the Playas de Jorullo and wrote my journal, 18th of September, 1803) the columns of smoke break out, not from the summit, but laterally. " In the year 1780, cigars might still be lighted, when they were fastened to a stick and pushed into a depth of two or three inches ; in some places the air was at that time so much heated in the vicinity of the hornitos, that it was necessary to turn away from one's proposed course. " Notwithstanding the refrigeration which, according to the universal testimony of the Indians, the district had undergone within twenty years, I found the temperature in the fissures of the hornitos to range between 199° and 203° ; and, at a distance of twenty feet from some hills, the tem perature of the air was still 108-5° and 116-2° at a point where no vapors reached me, the true temperature of the atmosphere of the Playas being at the same time scarcely 77°. " The weak sulphuric vapors decolorized strips of test-paper, and rose visibly for some hours after sunrise, to a height of fully sixty feet. " The view of the columns of smoke was most remarkable early in a cool morning. Toward midday, and even after eleven o'clock, they had be come very low and very visible only from their immediate vicinity. In the interior of many of the hornitos we heard a rushing sound, like the fall of water. The small basaltic Iwrnitos are, as already remarked, easily de structible. When Burkart visited the Malpais twenty-four years after me, he found that none of the hornitos were still smoking, their temperature be ing in most cases the same as that of the surrounding air, while many of them had lost all regularity of form by heavy rains and meteoric influences. Near the principal volcano, Burkart found small cones, which were com posed of a brownish-red conglomerate, of rounded or angular fragments of lava, and only loosely coherent. " In the midst of the upheaved area covered with hornitos, there is still to be seen a remnant of the old elevation on which the buildings of the THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 235 farm of San Pedro rested. The hill, which I have indicated in my plan, forms a ridge directed east and west, and its preservation at the foot of the great volcano is most astonishing. Only a part of it is covered with dense sand (burned laprilli). The projecting basaltic rock grown over with ancient trunks of Ficus Indica and Psidium, is certainly, like that of the Cerro del Mirador and the high mountain-masses which bound the plain to the east ward, to be regarded as having existed before the catastrophe." * Eeferring to the eruption of the volcano, Humboldt remarks that the natives ascribe these wonderful changes in the earth's surface to the work of the monks. At the Playas de Jorullo, the Indian, whose hut the German trav eler occupied, told him that in 1759 the Capuchins belong ing to the mission preached at San Pedro, but failed to re ceive hospitable treatment. Accordingly, they pronounced anathemas upon this beautiful and fertile plain, predict ing that first of all the houses would be destroyed by flames, which would issue from the earth, and that after ward the surrounding air would cool to such a degree that the neighboring mountains would remain eternally covered with snow and ice. The former of these maledictions hav ing been verified, the lower class of Indians already see in the gradual cooling of the volcano the presage of a perpet ual winter. Should the tourist wish to visit the hornitos that have just been described, it may be said that they are about 12 miles from Puerta de la Playa. There is no hamlet in the vicinity. The famous copper-mines of San Pedro de Jo rullo are about 15 miles distant. These ore deposits were worked before the Conquest, and consist of the sulphides and oxides of copper. Several tunnels have been driven into the side of the mountain about 2,000 feet above the adjacent plain. There is from 25 to 60 per cent of metal in the cop per pyrites ; and from 80 to 100 arrobas of ore are extracted monthly, and carried by mules to Santa Clara (see p. 221). * The author has italicized all Spanish words in the above extract. 236 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. The mining district of Coalcoman lies about 60 miles west of Jorullo. There are many mines of gold, silver, copper, and lead here. The deposits of iron are also said to be as extensive as those of the famous Cerro del Mercado in Durango. This circumstance, together with the proximity of the district to the Pacific Ocean, gives reason to believe that, upon the opeuing of some of the ports on the coast, and the development of the various mines, Coalcoman will become the center of wealth and commerce of the State of Michoacan. From Puerta de la Playa the traveler may continue the journey southward, crossing the Zacatula Eiver to Acapulco, 235 miles distant. The greater part of the road follows the outline of the Pacific coast. The river can be forded in the dry seasons, but rafts must be used during the heavy rains of summer. The climate of Aca pulco is very hot and unhealthy. The town lies on a nar row strip of land, less than half a mile in width, on which there is but little soil. It is surrounded by lofty granitic mountains, and has about 5,000 inhabitants. There are several hotels here. The harbor is the finest in Mexico. For many years Vera Cruz was the only other port from which goods were shipped to foreign countries. There was formerly considerable commerce between Acapulco and the Philippine Islands. The Pacific Mail steamships touch at Acapulco twice a month. The distance from Acapulco to San Francisco is 1,836 miles, and the fare is (cabin) $100. The fare to Panama is the same, and the distance is 1,591 miles. The terminus of the Morelos Eailway will be at Acapul co. The town will probably become an important com mercial center when the road is completed. At present the only object of interest to the tourist is the artificial cut in the mountain (Abra de San Nicolas), which has been ex cavated for the purpose of admitting the sea-breeze. The scenery of the landlocked harbor is picturesque. THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 237 Route II. FROM THE CITY OF MEXICO TO LAREDO AND CORPUS CHRISTI. 1. Mexico to Celaya. 2. Celaya to San Luis Potosi. 3. San Luis Potosi to Saltillo. 4. Saltillo to Monterey. 5. Monterey to Laredo. 6. Laredo to Corpus Christi. 1. Mexico to Celaya, 219 miles. (For description of this tour as far as Acambaro, and thence to Celaya, see Eoute I, pp. 202-210.) 2. From Celaya to San Luis Potosi. Leaving the junction of this line with the Mexican Cen tral Eailroad at Celaya, the route will go northward to San Luis Potosi, about 120 miles distant. This division of the road will traverse a fine agricultural country. On October 15, 1885, the main line had been constructed as far as San Miguel de Allende, 55*12 kilometres north of Celaya. The intermediate stations are Molino del Soria (15*03 kilometres) and Chamacuero (22*06 kilometres). The track is rapidly approaching San Luis Potosi. A daily stage-coach runs from this city to the temporary terminus. SAN LUIS POTOSI. Population, 35,000 in 1883 ; elevation, 6,150 feet. Hotels. — San Fernando, Del Progreso, San Carlos, San Luis, Americano. Baths of San Jose, in Calle de Rayon, at 3 and 4 reales ; one of the finest bath-houses in Mexico. Post-Office, about two blocks north of the baths. English Bankers. — Pitman & Co., opposite the Cathedral. San Luis, as it is generally called, is a fine city. It is the capital of the State of the same name. The streets are 238 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. laid out at right angles to each other, and are well paved. The houses are mostly of two stories. There are several public squares and a fine park. The city covers a large area. It lies in a broad and fertile plain, surrounded by lofty sierras. The climate is delightful, the thermometer rarely falling as low as the freezing-point. Places of Interest. — 1. The Cathedral. 2. The Mint. 3. The City- Hall. 4. The Church of El Carmen. 5. The Church of San Francisco. 6. The Church of San Agustin. 7. The Church of La Merced. 8. The Church of Guadalupe. 9. The Chapels of El Rosario and Los Remedies. 10. The Alameda. 11. The Plaza mayor. The cathedral contains a beautiful clock that strikes the hours. It is in the facade between the towers, and was sent as a present to the city from a King of Spain. The tourist should ascend one of the towers for a view of the environs. The entrance is on the plaza, just north of the principal door of the cathedral. There is a large monument erected in honor of the patriot Hidalgo in the center of the plaza. A horse-car track has just been laid in the streets, and the electric light and telephones are already in use. An American capitalist has recently purchased a lot on the Alameda, with the intention of building a first-class hotel. The citizens of San Luis are noted for their hospitality. Balls are given in the winter season, to which strangers may be invited through some merchant or banker. There is a large garrison here, and the military band plays in the Plaza mayor three times a week. This city will soon become a great railway center. The eastern division of the Mexican Central Eailroad is being pushed forward from Tampico as rapidly as possible. At present 3,600 men are employed on this section of the line. It is expected that the road will reach San Luis Po tosi on July 1, 1885. It will be carried westward toward the main line, making a junction probably at Aguascalien- tes. (For description of this railway, see Section V.) THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 239 A branch road of the Mexican National Eailway is pro jected to Zacatecas. The distance is about 150 miles. San Luis is now a central station for diligence-lines. The proprietors of the Diligencias Generates run stage- ^A/WWA/AAA Jfe (%%3-33-Bk s^wisffi/- I kihiiili 'wlilln ^-st-js; II)! 11" XL. "T7 Interior of a Modern Mexican House. coaches as follows : To Queretaro, 160 miles, fare, $10 ; to Lagos, 117 miles, fare, $10 ; to Saltillo, 331 miles, fare, $30 ; to El Maiz, 104 miles, fare, $10 ; to Pinos, 71 miles, fare, $8. 240 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Connection with Tampico may be made at El Maiz by horseback, 104 miles to the Rio Panuco, then by steamer eastward to the railroad terminus. The site of San Luis is far preferable to that of Mexico. When the two American trunk-lines are finished, it is believed that the former city will soon become a rival of the latter in commercial impor tance. At present freight charges to San Luis are enor mous — e. g., a box of snuff, valued at $9 in New Orleans, will cost $50 delivered in San Luis via Laredo, including the duties. Eesidents of this city are taxed heavily for the railroad toward Tampico. They pay three per cent of their annual income. An extensive trade in groceries, leather, shoes, saddlery, bagging, cassimeres, hats, and grain is carried on here. Fruit and the cereals grow in the environs. It is said that twenty bushels of Indian corn are produced to the acre. This State is rich in minerals, although but few of the mines are worked at present, owing to lack of capital. The famous San Pedro mine is near the city. The pillars hav ing been cut away, the roof of the mine has fallen in. Mining engineers state that there is still a large body of ore awaiting development. The biggest piece of native gold ever found in Mexico is said to have been taken out of the San Pedro. It was sent to the reigning King of Spain as a gift, and in return the Spanish sovereign presented a clock to the cathedral, which has already been described. 3. From San Luis Potosi to Saltillo ; time, 4 days. Leaving San Luis Potosi, the railroad will be continued northward through Venado, Charcas, and Encarnacion, to Saltillo, a distance of about 330 miles. The road will cross the great table-land, and the grading will be easy. The engineers report that the line just mentioned can be con structed in about the same time that has been necessary to lay the track between Monterey and Saltillo. At the THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 241 present time the stage-coach route from San Luis to the north passes through Charcas, Matehuala, Cedral, La Ven tura, and Saltillo ; thence by rail to Laredo via Monterey. The diligence starts daily from San Luis at 4 A. m. The average distance traversed is about 82 miles a day. The taverns along the road are very inferior, and the tour ist is advised to provide himself with beef-tea, canned goods, red wine, etc. The route from San Luis Potosi to Saltillo may be briefly described as follows : The road leads northward from the former city over the broad and level valley, in which mesquite, maguey , and nopal grow for many miles. The picturesque sierra bounds the plain on the east, while a rolling country is seen to the westward. The town of Montezuma, famous for its red wine, is passed on the way. The first night is spent at Charcas, which has about the same elevation as San Luis Potosi. The meson is clean, and the water good. There is a telegraph here. The popu lation numbers about 2,000, and the distance from San Luis is 91 miles. Leaving Charcas, the road trends slightly to the north east, and lies over a broad plain for several miles, when the mountains of Catorce come into view. The diligence stops at Matehuala for dinner. The hotel is tolerably well kept. This city has a population of 15,000, and contains many haciendas de beneficios, or silver-reducing works. There are also silver-mines in the vicinity. Catorce is 13 miles distant. It has about 12,000 inhab itants, but no hotel. The population at one time reached 20,000. Some of the richest veins of silver in the Eepub lic are found in the vicinity. They are owned chiefly by Spaniards and Englishmen. During the French invasion a mint was established here. The mines of Catorce have not paid well for the last few years ; but it is said that some rich pockets of ore have been found very recently, while driving a tunnel, in one of the old Spanish claims. 242 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. The word "catorce" means fourteen. The town was named after a band of fourteen robbers, who were the ter ror of the neighborhood for many years. On reaching Matehuala, the traveler enters a region abounding with blue limestone. The water is purgative, and should be drunk sparingly. The road continues over a level plain toward Cedral, about 13 miles farther. In places, the tourist may see solid stone fences, marking the boundaries of haciendas, or farms. These fences are often carried up to the summits of the adjacent ridges. The soil is little cultivated between Charcas and Cedral. Irrigation is necessary, and there are no acequias or ditches. By taking advantage of the rainy season, however, more cereals could be grown. This portion of the great northern table-land, like the others, will always yield more in min eral than in agricultural products, unless water companies are organized, and tanks built in the ravines of the sierras for irrigation. The second night is passed at Cedral, 78 miles from Charcas. The former town has about 4,000 inhabitants and two taverns. The Diligencias is the better. It has accommodation for eight passengers. There are several silver-reducing mills in Cedral. The ores come from Ca torce, and contain sulphur. They are roasted, therefore, in a reverberatory furnace, before being crushed, and amalga mated. The pyramidal mountain of El Fraile stands near the town. It may be ascended by a bridle-path" to a point a short distance from the summit, and thence on foot. Leaving Cedral, there is a good road to La Ventura, 81 miles distant, over a broad valley, bordered with sierras on either side. There is but little vegetation to be seen, other than the huisachi, mesquite, and shrub-palms. At El Salado, about 27 miles from Cedral, a stop is made for lunch. We are now on the eastern boundary of one of the largest estates in Mexico, the Hacienda del Salado. It lies THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 243 partly in the four States of San Luis Potosi, Zacatecas, Nuevo Leon, and Coahuila. There are 8,000 horses and 3,000 cattle on the farm. Wells and tanks are used for watering the stock, as no running streams exist here. The next night is spent in La Ventura, at the ranch of General Trevino. This spot lies in a broad plain, sur rounded by lofty ridges of mountains. There is a large pond in the rear of the farm-house, where the tourist can bathe. The " hotel " accommodation is very poor, and the traveler is warned to beware of fleas (pulgas). Leaving La Ventura, where the elevation is 5,840 feet, the road continues level for several miles. The limestone rock still covers the country. Presently a long hill is as cended, and Agua Nueva is reached. Here the altitude is 6,380 feet. This is a fertile spot, and affords good water. It is about 20 miles from Saltillo. Thispart of the route is celebrated in Mexican history as being the scene of battles, both during the War of Independence as well as in the con flict with the United States. A few miles farther is the hamlet of La Encantada, having an elevation of 6,171 feet. General Taylor with his army encamped here before the battle of Buena Vista. A wagon-road goes from this place to Parras,* and the "laguna country" of Coahuila. The altitude of Parras is 4,986 feet, according to Wislizenus. Cotton, fruit, and the cereals grow in considerable quantities in the vicinity of Parras. The annual crop of the former staple amounts to 650,000 pounds. The yucca- tree is common in Coahuila. It grows to a height of thirty feet. Some species bear an edible fruit which resembles the banana. Proceeding far ther, the traveler crosses the famous battle-field of Buena Vista, on a plateau about half a mile wide. Here, on Feb ruary 22 and 23, 1847, the American army, under General Taylor, defeated the Mexicans, who were commanded by * Parras is about 75 miles west of Saltillo. 244 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Santa Anna. The forces of the latter outnumbered those of the former by about four to one. The stage-road descends from Buena Vista nearly all the way to Saltillo, the first part of it being quite rough. The difference of elevation between the two points is almost Yucca-tree. a thousand feet. The jagged ridge of limestone on the eastern side of the route soon trends to the eastward, and extends as far as Monterey. The tourist approaching Saltillo does not see it until within about 300 yards of the city. He may have, how ever, an extensive view of the valley in which this town THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 245 lies, as well as the picturesque sierras bounding it, from the plateau on the south. After a continual descent, the houses come in sight, and the diligence rattles over the cobble-stone pavement of the streets to the hotel, stopping first at the post-office to de liver the mail. The city is 81 miles from La Ventura. SALTILLO. Population, 11,340 ; elevation, 5,204 feet. Hotel. — San Estehan. There are a few mesones. The water for the city is brought from the mountains in a long aqueduct. Saltillo is the capital of the State of Coahuila, and is a very healthy place. It is well built, and contains an Alameda and several plazas. The parochial church on the Plaza mayor is worthy of a visit. There is a small garrison and a bull-ring here. A fort, which was built during the French occupation, stands on the hill behind the city. Several cotton-factories are found in the neighborhood, and a considerable trade in goat and sheep skins is carried on in Saltillo. This city is destined to become the emporium of Northeastern Mexico. A wagon-road leads to Monclova, 121 miles distant, and the Mexican International Eailroad, starting from Piedras Negras, will probably have a branch line from Monclova to Saltillo. The Mexican National Eailway began to run trains to the latter town about September 15, 1883.* The climate is temperate and dry. An American capitalist is about to erect a hotel, with all the modern conveniences. Saltillo is likely to become a resort for invalids. It has many advantages over Colorado, and the distance from New York or Philadelphia to either place is about the same. * On October 15, 1883, the road-bed had been graded to El Salado, 86 miles south of Saltillo. 246 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. 4. From Saltillo to Monterey, 67'8 miles. Difference of elevation, 3,414 feet. Leaving Saltillo, the railroad traverses a fertile valley, in which wheat, barley, and maize are cultivated. The views along the route are beautiful. The first station is Capellania (8 miles). Passing the hamlets of Ojo Caliente (18*4 miles) and Los Muertos (24*5 miles), we reach Rinco- nada (31*1 miles). Here the altitude is 3,316 feet, or 1,888 feet lower than Saltillo. There is a large ranch near the station. The track of the Mexican National Eailway leaves the broad canon near Rinconada. The grade now de scends rapidly, and the scenery becomes magnificent. The walls of the valley are formed of steep, rocky ridges with serrated outlines. The next stop is made at Garcia (46*8 miles), elevation, 2,465 feet. The next station is Santa Catarina (59*8 miles). This village has a population of about 1,500. There is a great deal of mesquite and nopal growing in the vicinity. The famous potrero is about four miles, distant. It is a pasture which is reached by a winding caflon intersecting the south side of the lofty and rocky sierra. The scenery is very picturesque. The lime stone has been shaped into pinnacles, domes, and towers. In fact, it reminds the traveler of a miniature Yosemite. A very pleasant excursion from Monterey would be, to take the morning train to Santa Catarina, visit the potrero on horseback or on foot, and return to the city by the evening train. The wagon-road passes Independence Hill, a few miles beyond Santa Catarina. It is an artificial mound about 150 feet high, with two wooden crosses on the sum mit, erected to the memory of the heroes who fell at the battle of Monterey in 1847. There was considerable fight ing in this region during the Mexican War. Among other soldiers who fought here and have since become famous, may be mentioned General William T. Sherman, who was then a lieutenant in the United States Army. THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 247 We now pass the stations of Leona (61 *5 miles) and San Geronimo (64*1 miles). Continuing the journey toward Monterey, the next place of interest is the Bishop's Palace, situated on a hill about 150 feet above the surrounding plain. A fort was built on this eminence, and occupied by the Mexicans during the war. After a short resistance, the Scene on the Northern Plateau. Americans caused it to surrender. At present the Bishop's Palace is used as a barracks. A company of artillery, with half a dozen guns, is stationed here. The city is four miles distant. A species of dwarf palm-tree, popularly called the dagger-plant, grows along the wagon-road. The next stopping-place is Gonzalitos (66 miles), after which comes Monterey (67*8 miles). 12 248 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. MONTEREY. Population, 40,000 ; elevation, 1,790 feet. Hotels. — Iturbide, Monterey, Fonda Americana. Baths. — Del Refugio, in the Calle de Dr. Mier. Carriages. — Four reales an hour. Post-Office, on the plaza. Telegraph-Office, at the railway-station. Hobse-Cars, from the plaza to the railway-station ; fare, a medio (6J cents), The city is the capital of the State of Nuevo Leon, and is situated on the Rio de Santa Catarina, in latitude 25° 40' 6" north, and longitude 0° 49' west of Mexico. It lies in a broad plain, with the majestic Bishop's Mitre, or Cerro de la Mitra, on the west, and the unique Saddle-Mountain, or Cerro de la Silla, on the east. Both of these hills are formed almost entirely of solid rock. The latter is 4,149 feet and the former 3,618 feet above the level of the sea. Monterey covers a great deal of ground. The houses are mostly of one story, except on the two public squares, where they have two stories. Places of Interest. — 1. The Cathedral. 2. The Bishop's Palace (al ready described). 3. The New Bridge, or Puente Nuevo. 4. The Tank, Ojo de Agua. 5. The Chapel of Guadalupe. — 6. The Market. The bridge is famous as the scene of a battle between the Mexicans and Americans. The former defended it success fully against the onslaught of the latter. Zealous Catholics in Monterey say that the image of the Virgin, then on the bridge, assured the victory of their countrymen. The tank is much used for washing clothes and for bathing. The stranger should ascend the hill known as the Caido, beyond the chapel of Guadalupe and due south of the city. A carriage may be driven to within a hundred yards of the summit, or it can easily be reached on horse back. The view is one of the most picturesque in the Ee public, and affords an opportunity of studying the topog raphy of Monterey and the neighboring battle-fields. THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 249 It reminds the traveler of Salzburg, and several other towns in the Tyrol. If the tourist intends remaining long in the city, he may ascend the Saddle-Mountain, or the Bishop's Mitre. A visit should be made to the potrero (described on page 246). Native work, such as fancy baskets, purses, bird-figures, etc., can be purchased at the jail, which is in the old convent of San Francisco. Monterey has become more Americanized, perhaps, than any other Mexican town. The hotels are kept on the American plan ; and merchants, lawyers, doctors, and den tists from the United States have established themselves here. There are beautiful drives in the vicinity. The climate is dry and healthy, although very warm for half the year. Monterey is on the isothermal line that passes through the Canary Isles, and Canton, in China. The prevailing wind is from the southeast. The following temperatures were taken in 1865 by Dr. E. Gonzalez, and given to the author . Mean temperature of the year 71° Fahr. Mean temperature of the winter 55° " Mean temperature of the summer 83° " Hottest month, July 84J° " Coldest month, January.. 51° " Maximum temperature, May 25th 107° " Minimum temperature, January 24th 32° " This city may become a resort for invalids, a few of whom passed the winter of 1883 here. The changes of temperature, however, are said to be more rapid than at Saltillo, and the climate of the latter town is certainly much cooler in summer. 6. From Monterey to Laredo. Distance, 172 miles. Fares: $7.05, first class ; $5.75, second class. Two passenger-trains daily. Leaving Monterey station, which is about a mile and a half from the plaza, the road runs northward over the broad plain. The mountains surrounding the city present 250 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. a magnificent spectacle to the eye, and are seen to best ad vantage from the rear platform of the last car. As the train moves onward, they appear to fade out of sight like a dissolving view. Much coin and bullion are transported over this route. Sometimes $100,000 will be carried in the baggage-car of the train. Passing the hamlet of Es- tancia (6 miles), the next station is Topo (13 miles). Here the elevation is 1,590 feet, or 200 feet lower than Mon terey. The next stop is made at Salinas (21 miles), where the altitude is 1,432 feet. This town has about 4,000 inhab itants, and is situated on a river of the same name. The surrounding region is fertile, and produces fruit. The adjoining canon contains silver-mines that are worked at the present time. Leaving Salinas, the lofty sierra still bounds the plain on the west. The ridge-line is, however, somewhat lower than at Monterey, and it decreases in height on running northward, until it assumes the form of a mesa, or terrace. Palo Blanco (43 miles) is the next station, and then the train stops at Villaldama (59 miles). A forest of palm- trees is passed on the way, and the country to the eastward continues level for many miles. The elevation of Villal dama is 1,412 feet, and it is named after Aldama, one of the heroes of the War of Independence. The town lies about a mile east of the railroad, and was formerly known as Boca de los Leones. The population numbers about 5,000, and it is chiefly descended from Spaniards. There are lead-mines in the vicinity, but they have been aban doned, owing to lack of capital. Leaving Villaldama, the next station is Bustamante (67 miles), where a stop of twenty minutes is made for dinner. The next station is Golondrinos (74 miles), where a stock-farm may be visited. Passing the hamlet of Salome Botello (83 miles), we reach Lampazos (96 miles), which has an elevation of 1,032 feet. THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 251 The latter town lies eastward of the track. Mexican blankets are manufactured here. Opposite Lampazos is the Mesa de los Cartuhanes, a terrace rising about 2,000 feet above the plain. Its area is about 20 X 15 miles, and it is accessible from only one point. This plateau affords good water, grass, and timber. It was formerly used by Indians as a hiding-place. The mesa is owned by Patrick Milmo, Esq., an Irish settler, who married the daughter of an ex-Governor of Nuevo Leon. Mr. Milmo is also the proprietor of an im mense amount of real estate in Monterey and the adja cent region. Leaving Lampazos, the train passes Moj.ina (109 miles) and Rodriguez (124 miles). Just before reach ing the latter place the track makes a bend to the east. The elevation of Rodriguez is 651 feet. The country is now covered with nopal- bnshes and mesquite. The mountain - ridge gradually subsides into the plain. We cross the Salado Eiver, and reach Huisachito (135 miles), where the road-bed curves eastward. The next station is Jarita (148 miles). Here the altitude is 674 feet. The surrounding country is flat and uninteresting as far as the frontier. Passing Sanchez (150 miles), New Laredo (166 miles) is reached. The Mexican National Eailway crosses the Mexican Southern just before reaching its station. Varieties of Cactus. 252 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. NEW LAREDO. Population, about 6,000 ; elevation, 438 feet. Hotel. — Rio Grande. This town was a part of old Laredo, on the opposite side of the river, before Texas was separated from Mexico. Communication has always been made by ferries, until the recent completion of the railroad-bridge. New Laredo will become an important city when the two American trunk- lines are finished. The Mexican National and the Mexican Southern Eailway Companies have recently made arrange ments to build jointly a substantial iron bridge across the Rio Grande, to replace the wooden trestle-work erected by the former company. The new bridge will be used by both roads. Leaving New Laredo, the train passes the station of Rio Grande (168 miles), and then crosses the river, which is about one quarter of a mile wide. The next stop is at Mexico Junction (169 miles). The track now makes a long bend to the northwest, and reaches Laredo, Texas (172 miles). Between the two Laredos, an express agent passes through the cars, and checks baggage to any part of the latter city. He also sells transfer tickets to the depot of the International and Great Northern Eail road, which runs to San Antonio. The customs inspector meets the train on arrival at the station of Laredo, and ex amines baggage on the platform without causing any un necessary delay to the passengers. There is a dining-room adjoining the station, owned and controlled by the Mexican National Eailway Company. LAREDO. Population, G,000 ; elevation, 438 feet above the Gulf at Corpus Christi. Hotels. — Wilson House, Laredo Hotel. Tickets are sold at Laredo to all parts of the United States. The distance to San Antonio is 153 miles, and the Complete List of Stations from NUEVA LAREDO southward to MEXICO, with the Distances from the Latter. Nueva Laredo to Mexico, 1,348 kilometres, or 837'1 miles. STATIONS. Nuevo Laredo . Sanchez Jarita Huisachito Camaron Rodriguez Mojina Lampazos Brazil Salome Botello Golondrinas Huisache Bustamante Guadalupe Villaldama Alamo Palo Blanco El Puerto La Cantera Palmetto Morales Salinas Topo Ramon Trevino Topo Chico Monterey Gonzalitos San Ger6nimo . Leona Santa Catarina Garcia Soledad Los Fierros Rinconada Los Muertos . . . Ojo Caliente . . . Santa Maria Ramos Arispe . , Saltillo Encantada Aguanueva Caeneros , Oro Gomez Farias... Santa Elena La Ventura Lulu El Salado San Vicente La Parida Vanegas Poblazon Catorce La Maroma Berrendo Miles. States. 837 1 Tamaulipas. 826 6 818 5 Coahuila. 807 9 tt 801 0 Nuevo Leon. 793 0 44 780 0 44 765 7 44 759 1 44 752 7 44 745 2 44 737 8 44 732 2 44 729 1 (4 728 4 44 720 4 44 712 3 " 707 1 44 704 2 " 703 9 44 694 9 44 690 1 ii 678 8 44 675 0 44 673 8 44 670 1 41 668 8 44 666 9 44 665 1 44 662 6 44 649 6 44 642 7 44 637 2 " 634 7 44 627 2 Coahuila. 622 9 a 616 7 44 611 7 " 603 0 44 593 5 (i 585 4 44 579 4 a 568 7 a 561 1 44 549 6 44 535 4 a 522 7 44 513 2 San Luis Potosi. 503 0 a 493 5 44 484 0 44 473 7 44 464 2 44 454 1 44 444 6 44 STATIONS. Miles. States. 437-4427*4417-1405-5 396*1386-8380*0370-6361-9 351-6343-6336-2 326-8 819-1309-7298-0291-4285-8 280-0275-2270-6266-8260-4253-324f-7 239-6232-0 229.6 227-2 222-7 219-3 205-3 196-8 184-7 176-7 163-9158-7 151-3 138-4127*5 115-4108-6101-7 95-582-869-160-1 49-7 45-236-831-6 25-5 16-9 8-55-72-92-6 o-o San Luis "Potosi. n u u u u u It La Pila ii a u Guanajuato. (t a u u (4 ii li u a u a u u a it a u a n. a u a « tc l£ il Solis...° (l (C it Del Rio a ii li U (l il ii ii il ,.<. it 11 THE MEXICAN NATIONAL RAILWAY. 253 time is 9£ hours. There is but one passenger-train daily. The tourist can go eastward from San Antonio to Hous ton and New Orleans, or westward toward El Paso and California. The distance from — Miles. Laredo to the City of Mexico is 820 Laredo via Houston to New Orleans is , 720 Laredo to St. Louis, Mo., via Texarkana is 1,084 Laredo to New York via St. Louis is 2 181 Laredo to New York via New Orleans is 2,398 8. Prom Laredo to Corpus Christi, distance 161 miles. Time, 12£ hours. Two passenger-trains daily. Fare, $4.83, or three cents a mile. The stations between Laredo and Corpus Christi are ; Miles. Laredo 0 Mexico Junction 3 Pescadita 18 Aguilares 30 Los Angeles 46 Pefia 61 Realitos 75 Miles. Sweden 85 Benavides 91 San Diego 108 Collins 121 Banquete 136 Rogers 149 Corpus Christi 161 Corpus Christi (St. James Hotel) is the terminus of the Texas-Mexican Eailway, and is 981 miles from the City of Mexico. The mean depth of water at high tide on the bar is about 10 feet, and a recent congressional appropriation has led to the improTement of the channel. When the Mexican Na tional Eailway is completed, it is expected that merchan dise will be shipped from Europe and from the Eastern and Middle States to Corpus Christi, and be sent thence by rail direct to the Mexican capital. In this respect, the line will have an advantage oyer its rival, the Mexican Central. (Por additional information concerning the routes through Texas, see Appletons' General Guide to the United States.) SECTION V. The Mexican Central Railway (Ferrocarril Central Mexicano). (Compare with the chapter on railways.) Of the two branches of this road, the southern or prin cipal one will be described first. Route I. FKOM THE CITY OF MEXICO TO ZACATECAS. 1. Mexico to Queretaro. 2. Queretaro to Guanajuato. 3. Guanajuato to Lagos. 4. Lagos to Guadalajara and San Bias. 5. Lagos to Zacatecas. 1. From Mexico to Queretaro, 246 kilometres, or 152-J miles. Leaving the railroad-station at Buena Vista (elevation, 7,347 feet), the line runs northward over the broad valley of Mexico. The first station is Lecheria (21 kilometres). The track of the Mexican National Eailway runs parallel with this road for several miles. The grade is slightly as cending, Lecheria being 7,386 feet above the sea-level, or 39 feet above the City of Mexico. The snow-clad peaks of Popocatepetl and Lztaccihuatl remain in full view. We now stop at the hamlets of Cuautitlan (27 kilometres), Teoloyucan (36 kilometres), and Huehuetoca (47 kilometres). Both of these American railroad companies have station- THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 255 houses at these three places, and the Mexican National Eailway crosses the Mexican Central at Huehuetoca. The elevation of this point is 7,533 feet above the sea- level, according to Humboldt, or about 140 feet higher than the measurement of the railway-engineers. In general, it may be said that the distinguished German traveler and sci entist, in taking altitudes with his barometer throughout the country, computed the elevations of the various points at somewhat higher figures than those of the engineers of the several railroads. Wheat and maize are cultivated in the vicinity of Huehuetoca. This village is famous in Mexican history as being the scene of one of the greatest hydraulic operations ever undertaken by man. Frequent in undations of the City of Mexico, in the latter part of the sixteenth century, convinced the Spaniards that the system of dikes was insufficient to pro tect the capital. It was decided that the artificial draining of the Lakes of Tezcuco, Zumpango, and San Cristobal, would be necessary. Two intelligent men, Obrcgon and Arciniega, proposed to the Govern ment that a gallery should be made through the hills of Nochistongo, to the north-northwest of Huehuetoca. This spot was perhaps the lowest in the mountains bounding the valley of Mexico on the north. In 1607 the Marquis de Salinas, then viceroy, employed Enrico Martinez to begin the stupendous work of building a tunnel through the hills to drain the Mexican lakes. It received the name of the Desague (canal) de Huehuetoca. Work on the famous gallery of Nochistongo was commenced on November 28, 1607. The viceroy, in the presence of the audiencia, applied the first pickaxe, and 15,000 Indians were given employment. After eleven months of continued labor, during which many hundreds of Indians perished from severe treat ment, the tunnel (el socabon) was completed. Its length was more than four miles, its width eleven and a half feet, and its height fourteen feet. The water flowed through the canal for the first time on September 17, 1608. In the following December the viceroy and Archbishop of Mexico were invited by Martinez to witness it running, from the Lake of Zumpango and the Rio de Cuaulitlan, through the tunnel. The Viceroy Salinas is said to have ridden upward of a mile into this underground passage. Scarcely had the water begun to flow from the valley of Mexico toward the Atlantic Ocean, when the canal was found to be too small. The loose earth surrounding the tunnel began to crumble, and it became necessary to support the roof, which was composed of alternate strata of marl and stiff 256 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. clay. At first wood was used, but afterward masonry was deemed prefer able. The water, however, gradually undermined the lateral walls, and de posited a large quantity of earth and gravel on the bottom of the canal. Martinez built small sluices at intervals to clear the passage, to obviate these difficulties. This remedy, however, proved insufficient, and the gallery was stopped up by the constant falling in of earth. From 1608 to 1614 various schemes for enlarging the canal were dis cussed. In the latter year the court of Madrid, wearied out by the disputes of the engineers, sent out Adrian Boot, a Dutchman of large experience in hydraulic architecture. He was in favor of the Indian system, and advised the construction of great dikes and mounds of earth around the capital. He was unable to bring about the relinquishment of the Nochistongo Canal till 1623. About this time a new viceroy (Guelves) arrived, who scouted the idea that the City of Mexico was in danger of floods. He had the temerity to order the desague to be closed, and to make the water of the Lakes of Zumpango and San Cristobal return to the Lake of Tezcuco, that he might see whether the peril was, in fact, as great as it had been represented. The last lake soon swelled rapidly, and the foolish direc tions to the engineer Martinez were countermanded. The latter now began his operations anew, and continued them till June 20, 1629. Heavy rains fell, and suddenly the capital became inundated to the height of a metre (3J feet). Martinez was committed to prison. Con trary to every expectation, Mexico remained flooded for five years, from 1629 to 1634 ! During this interval four different projects were presented and discussed by the Marquis de Ceralvo, the viceroy. The misery of the lower classes was singularly increased while the inundation lasted. Trade was at a stand, many houses tumbled down, and others were rendered un inhabitable. The waters, however, in 1634, receded, the ground in the valley having opened on account of violent and very frequent earthquakes. The viceroy now set the engineer Martinez at liberty. He was ordered to finish the desague, by enlarging the original tunnel. The Government levied particular imposts on the consumption of commodities for the expense of these hydraulic operations. In 1637 the Viceroy Villena put the entire work in charge of Father Luis Flores, of the Order of St. Francis. It was decided to abandon the tunnel (socabon), to remove the top of the vault, and to make an immense cut through the mountain, of which the old subterranean passage was to be merely the water-course. The monks of St. Francis continued to retain direction of this work for about forty years, when Martin del Solis, a lawyer, obtained from the court of Madrid the administration of the desague. He proved to be in- in ¦3 *¦* - Wsgy%L? r fu mK MB p an MPli 258 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. competent to manage such a gigantic engineering scheme, and the passage was stopped up. The canal had been opened and walled in a few years, but it required two centuries to complete the cut in a loose earth, in sec tions of from 262 to 328 feet in breadth, and from 131 to 164 feet in per pendicular depth. The work was neglected in years of drought, but renewed with extraordinary energy after a season of heavy rains. In 1762 there were still at the northern extremity of the tunnel of Mar tinez 6,356 feet which had never been converted into an open trench (tajo abierto). At length, in 1767, the Flemish viceroy, the Marquis de Croix, undertook to finish the desagite. The cut was enlarged, but, in fact, the great canal was never entirely completed. Millions had been expended, and the Government, hesitating between the Indian system of dikes and the modern scheme of a canal and open cut through the hill, never had the courage to adhere to the same plan. The gallery was allowed to be choked up, because a wider and deeper one was required ; and the cut of Nochistongo was not to be finished, while the officials were disputing about the project of the canal of Tezcuco, which was never executed. In the beginning of the present century the entire length of the desague from south to north was 20,585 metres, or about 12| miles. This is reck oning from the sluice of Vertideros, about 2J miles south of Huehuetoca, to El Salto del Rio de Tula. For further particulars about this great canal, the reader is referred to Humboldt's Political Essay on the Kingdom of New Spain, Black's translation, vol. ii, pp. 75-112, from which the above abstract is taken. Humboldt also discusses the scheme of extending the canal from El Salto to Tam pico, on the Gulf of Mexico. For many years this plan, although never undertaken, was considered practicable by the Mexicans. It may be remarked that a canal of such length could be used for irrigation in the dry season, as well as for the transportation of merchandise by small craft. Of course a great many locks would be necessary, as the difference of level between Huehuetoca and Tampico is 7,400 feet. The tourist can obtain a hasty view of this great hydraulic work from the car- window, as the track is now laid through the cut (tajo) of Nochistongo. But, to examine the desague THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 259 properly, a stop should be made at Huehuetoca or El Salto, where a horse can be procured for the short journey. The traveler can leave Mexico in the morning by either road (i. e., the Mexican Central or the Mexican National), in spect the ancient canal, and return in the afternoon train. Leaving Huehuetoca, we pass Kilometer (53 kilometres), and the next station is El Salto (62 kilometres). Here the Mexican National Eailway crosses the Mexican Central again.* (Elevation of El Salto, 7,131 feet.) Between Hue huetoca and El Salto the road runs northwest, but from the latter station to San Antonio the general course of the track is westerly. The snow-clad volcanoes are no longer visible after leav ing Tula (80 kilometres) (Hotel Diligencias). This town was once the great Toltee capital. Euins are found on the Hill of Treasure (see p. 48). From this station, having an elevation of 6,658 feet, the up-grade becomes quite percep tible for a few miles. Much wheat and maize grow along the line, especially in the river-bottoms. We now stop at San Antonio (93 kilometres ; elevation, 7,216 feet). Trees of nopal, piru, and huisachi are abun dant in places where the land has not been cultivated. The general direction of the route is now west-northwest. The country is rolling, and good for stock-raising. Pass ing the stations of Angeles (112 kilometres), Marques (122 kilometres), Nopala (130 kilometres), Daiiu (138 kilome tres), Polotitlan (151 kilometres), and Cazadero (161 kilome tres), the train describes a long curve, and reaches San Juan del Rio (191 kilometres). The highest point of the railroad is just east of Marques station. Here the altitude is 8,134 feet, or 787 feet above the capital. Thence the grade is downward toward Polotitlan — elevation, 7, 534 feet, and San Juan del Rio — 6,300 feet. * El Salto is 67-29 kilometres from Mexico, via the Mexican National Railway. 260 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. This latter town is situated in a broad and very fertile plain, where cereals are cultivated. Some of the best agri cultural land in the Eepublic lies between here and Leon. The population of San Juan del Rio is about 12,000, and the streets are wide and well paved. It was formerly one of the largest woolen manufacturing cities in the country. The train stops thirty minutes at this place for breakfast. The restaurant is very well kept, and the eastward and westward passenger-trains usually meet here. Ahorcado (216 kilometres) is the next station ; elevation, 6,258 feet. The track now runs slightly downward over a productive region, passing the immense cotton-mills at Her cules, and reaches Queretaro (246 kilometres). QTJERETAK0. Population, 38,000 in 1882; elevation, 6,363 feet, according to Hum boldt, and 5,904 feet, according to the railroad-engineers. Hotels. — Diligendas, Del Ferrocarril Central, Del Aguila Roja, Ruiz, and Hidalgo. Baths, in the Calle de Locutorios. Post-Office, in the same street. Queretaro is the capital of the State of the same name, and was founded by the Aztecs about the middle of the fifteenth century. It was conquered by the Spaniards, under Fernando de Tapia, a lieutenant of Cortes, in 1531. The city contains many fine edifices, several public squares, and numerous paved streets. It has a temperate climate, and fruits, flowers, and the cereals grow abundantly in the environs. The water-supply comes from a neighboring mountain, by means of a stone aqueduct, some of the arches of which are ninety feet high. The cost of this structure was $124,000, the greater part of which was paid by the Marquis de Villar del Aguila, to whom the citizens have erected a statue on one of the plazas. Places of Interest. — 1. The Churches of San Francisco, or the Ca thedral ; San Antonio, San Agustin, Santo Domingo, Santa Clara, El Car- THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 261 men, de la Cruz, and Santa Rosa. Santa Clara is the finest of all, and contains exquisite gilt wooden carvings. A convent adjoins it. 2. The Hercules cotton-mill. 3. El Cerro de las Campanas. 4. The Alameda, with beautiful groves of ash-trees. No traveler should leave the country without visiting the famous Hercules mill. The railroad-track runs close to it, and the distance by carriage from Queretaro is about two miles. The factory was begun in 1840 by Sefior Rubio. The cost of building it, together with the ground, was $4,000,000. It is a sort of citadel. Inclosed by a high wall, provided with port-holes, occupying several acres, and giv ing employment to 1,400 operatives, it forms a manufactur ing town of itself. The Rubio family live here, and their apartments ad join a beautiful garden, laid out with artificial ponds and statues. The buildings are of stone, and the machinery has been imported principally from England. Both steam and water power are used in the factory, and it has one of the largest overshot wheels in the world, being fifty feet in diameter. The operatives are all Mexicans. There are, however, half a dozen Europeans employed as foremen and superintendents. The force of hands is kept working both day and night, and an immense number of yards of un bleached cotton, -called manta, is manufactured annually. Seriores Rubio have a small "army" of thirty-eight sol diers, who are provided with muskets and howitzers. Thus far the owners have defended their property successfully against the insurgents during several revolutions. The proprietors say that there has been but one strike among the operatives during the last twenty-five years. Don Cayetano Rubio is the present manager of the es tablishment. He went to Manchester, England, when a lad, and learned the trade of cotton-spinning. He is very polite to strangers, and sends a clerk to accompany them through the factory. The Hercules mill suggests much 262 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. material for study to foreigners who are reckoning on the future of manufactures in Mexico. The Cerro de las Campanas is the hill on the north side of which the unfortunate Maximilian was shot. During the empire, earthworks were built on this eminence, which rises about one hundred feet above the plain. The Liberal army, under General Escobedo, besieged Queretaro while Maximilian was in command. Through the treachery of Colonel Miguel Lopez, the Emperor was taken prisoner, and his forces subsequently surrendered to the Liberals. Maximilian was tried before a court-martial, and sentenced to be shot. Persistent efforts were made to save his life. The Princess Salm-Salm is said to have ridden to San Luis Potosi, the seat of the Eepublican Government, 160 miles distant, and begged President Juarez to pardon the adventurer from Miramar. The Government of the United States was appealed to in vain. None of the European potentates ventured to intercede, and Maximil ian, together with his comrades in arms, Generals Miramon and Mejia, was shot on June 19, 1867. His body was sub sequently taken to Vienna for interment. The night before the Emperor's execution, he wrote the following letter to his wife, who was then a maniac, confined in one of the palaces of her father, the King of the Belgians : " To mt beloved Charlotte : If God ever permits you to recover and read these lines, you will learn the cruelty of the fate which has not ceased to pursue me since your departure for Europe. You carried with you my soul and my happiness. Why did I not listen to you ? So many events, alas ! so many unexpected and unmerited catastrophes, have overwhelmed me, that I have no more hope in my heart, and I await death as a delivering angel. I die without agony. I shall fall with glory, like a soldier, like a conquered king. If you have not the power to bear so much suffering, if God soon reunites us, I shall bless the divine and paternal hand which has so rudely stricken us. Adieu ! Adieu ! Thy poor Max." A diligence runs three times a week from Queretaro to San Luis Potosi, the distance being 160 miles, and the fare THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 263 is $10. The road is rough, and two days are required for the trip. The route passes through two towns named after heroes of the War of Independence — San Miguel de Allende, a well-built city of about 20,000 inhabitants, and Dolores Hidalgo. The latter was the parish of the illustrious padre, Hidalgo, and it was here that he sounded the key-note for the Independence of Mexico, while addressing the populace on the 16th of September, 1810. 2. From Queretaro to Guanajuato, 160 kilometres, or 100 miles. Leaving Queretaro, the road traverses a rich agricultural plain bounded by hills of moderate extent. The track runs nearly due west to Calera (264 kilometres), elevation, 5,904 feet, and the grade is now slightly downward. Passing the station of Apaseo (278 kilometres), we reach Celaya (292 kilometres), where the elevation is 5,800 feet. At the latter point the main line of the Mexican National Eailway crosses the track. (For a description of this route, see Section IV, pp. 237-252.) Celaya (Hotel Cortazar) lies in a broad plain. The population is about 15,000. The town is noted for its churches. Those of San Francisco and El Carmen are worthy of a visit. Several woolen-factories are found here. There are also factories of cotton thread at the town of Sal- vatierra, 20 miles distant. Celaya is destined, when the American trunk-lines are completed, to become a place of some importance. Leaving this station, the road continues in a westerly direction with a gradual descent to Guaje (311 kilometres), and thence to Salamanca (333 kilometres). The latter place has an altitude of 5,680 feet, and a population of 13,000. It is celebrated for the manufacture of leathern clothing and gloves. Boys bring the latter into the cars for sale. There are also rich deposits of kaolin and white clay here. The best hotel is the Cortazar. At Salamanca 264 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. the line takes a northwesterly direction, and, passing the station of Chico (344 kilometres), reaches Irapuato (353 kilometres). A diligence connects at the latter town with La Piedad and Barca, and thence to Lake Chapala. The population of Irapuato is about 12,000. The track now ascends in approaching Villalobos (370 kilometres), and the next station is Silao (383 kilometres). SILAO. Population, about 10,000 ; elevation, 6,910 feet. Hotel. — Hidalgo. Also an excellent restaurant kept by a Frenchman opposite the station. The town lies in a district where two crops of wheat and maize are grown annually. Irrigation is necessary, how ever, and the water is commonly raised from the ditches by a rude bucket-wheel worked by man-power. The wheat-harvest is thirty-five and forty for one, and sometimes even as high as fifty or sixty to one. In the farms that are properly irrigated, the wheat is twice watered : first, when the young plant springs up in the month of January ; and, secondly, in the beginning of March, when the ear is on the point of developing itself. Sometimes even the entire field is inundated before sowing. This method resembles the mode of cultivation of the cereals in lower Egypt. ( Vide p. 95.) A branch road leads to Guanajuato, 23 kilometres dis tant. This town is situated in the low range of mount ains that forms the northern boundary of the plain. The intervening region has an undulating surface, and very little vegetation except the nopal. The branch track runs northeasterly, and the upward grade is heavy. It was finished in November, 1882. The line is built as far as Marfil (18 kilometres). At this station, both stage-coaches and horse-cars connect with Guanajuato, 5 kilometres dis tant. The fare in the former is 25 cents for each passenger THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 265 with ordinary baggage, and in the tramway 15 cents, first class, and 7 cents, second class. The railway company in tends to extend its track to Guanajuato in a few months. GUANAJUATO. Population, 56,112; elevation, 6,836 feet, according to Humboldt. Hotels. — Del Suizo, Bayas, and Diligencias. Restaurants. — De Bordeaux, Frances. Guanajuato is the capital of the State of the same name, and lies in latitude 21° north, and longitude 1° 49' west of the City of Mexico. The city was founded by the Spaniards in 1554. It re ceived the royal privilege of villa (town) in 1619, and that of ciudad (city) on the 8th of December, 1741. Places of Interest. — 1. The Church of La Parroquia. 2. The Mint. 3. The Prison (El Carcel). 4. The Silver-mills {haciendas de beneficios). 6. The Silver-mines. 6. Cerro (hill) de San Miguel. 7. The Paseo. In 1803 Humboldt states that the population ivithin the city was 41,000, and in the adjacent mines of Marfil, Santa Ana, Santa Rosa, Valenciana, Ray as, and Mellado, it was 29,600, making a total of 70,600, of whom there were 4,500 Indians. The same writer, in his Political Essay on New Spain, vol. iii, p. 138, ranks Guanajuato first in a list of the richest mining districts of Mexico. He remarks also that the vein of Guanajuato, from the end of the sixteenth century to the year 1800, produced fourteen hun dred million (l,lfi0,000,000) francs worth of silver, besides some gold. (See chapter on mines, in Part First.) This vein is familiarly called the Veta Madre, and the mines on it began to be worked in 1558. For several years past these mines have not paid well, and it is believed by many persons that their mineral wealth has been exhausted. This impression, however, is not well founded, as the mines have in only two instances (Ray as and Valenciana) been explored to a depth of 1,500 266 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. feet. It is highly probable that rich bodies of ore will be met with by sinking the shafts deeper. There are several families of great wealth in Guana juato, whose fortunes have been acquired in silver-mining. Humboldt states that the Count de Valenciana dug three pits in one mine at an expense of $1,700,000. The pro prietors of these mines are unwilling to sell them except at a large profit, as this class of real estate is regarded as a good investment. At present but two English companies own mineral property in this region. One of them has an agency for the examination and purchase of Mexican mines. Thus far the Americans have not bought mines in this vicinity. Their mineral lands are mostly in the northern States of the Eepublic. The traveler will have no better chance of visiting a mine than in Guanajuato. Accordingly, he is advised to descend one of the many pits in the suburbs. The Rayas * and Nopal mines are both dry and well arranged. A car riage may be driven to the latter, and within a short walk of the former. Strangers are treated with great civility, and no card of admission is necessary. The tourist will have an opportunity of seeing the cele brated peons at work, with their primitive tools and meth ods of mining. But he will be obliged to descend and ascend the massive stone steps to reach the vein, as no "elevators " have thus far come into use. A fee of twenty- five cents will be sufficient to give the boy who accompanies the traveler through the mine. (See p. 81. ) There are fifty mills for crushing and reducing silver- ores in Guanajuato. All of them are worked by horse power, except the Pardo mill, which is operated by steam. This mill has six stamps and twenty-two arrastras. The * The Rayas mine has three shafts, the deepest of which is 1 ,640 feet. In April, 1883, two thousand peons were employed. THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 267 ore is brought in sacks from the neighboring mines by pack- mules, and it is worked by the cold amalgamation or patio process, which was invented in 1557 by Bartolome Medina, a Mexican miner. A description of it may be of interest : The ore is first put in the mill (molino), which is a circular depression in the ground, and crushed by a revolving stone wheel covered with a thick cast-iron tire, and having a horizontal axis. The wheel is moved by two mules attached to a long shaft. There is a coarse iron sieve in the center of the mill, at the base of the vertical post in which the axle of the wheel is fastened. As the ore is crushed, a peon shovels it against the sieve, and the smaller pieces pass through an opening in the ground surrounding the post, and are collected in a vault below. The small particles of ore are now carried in litters to the aiTastras, which are flat stones of porphyry, or some other hard rock, about three feet long, which revolve in a large tub. The tub is half full of water, and the arrastras grind the fragments of silver-ore into a fine powder in about twenty-four hours. Mules are used to give a rotary motion to the arrastras, each animal working six hours. The machinery is run day and night. The next step is the conveyance of the pulverized ore, called lama, in a trough (batea) to the patio or court-yard. The patio is paved with large flat stones, and the soft lama is allowed to accumulate to a depth of about two feet. This muddy mass is then mixed with magistral,* or blue vitriol, salt, and quicksilver, by scattering these sub stances with the hand, and employing mules to walk about in the torta, as it is now termed. A laborer rolls up his breeches and stands in the torta, holding the reins of three mules harnessed together, and drives the animals around him, changing his position every few minutes, in order to impreg nate the powdered ore thoroughly with the several chemicals. The mules tramp through the torta for seven hours daily, and the time required to mix the mass properly varies from two to four weeks, accord ing to the quality of the ore. The torta is then carried in litters to the lavaderos, or large cisterns, where it is washed and stirred by means of revolving sticks. The silvery mass being heavy, of course, settles at the bottom, and in two or three days the muddy water is drawn off. The amalgam, or pella, which has been formed, is now taken from the lavaderos to a sort of oven or depres sion in the ground, covered with a huge metallic hood termed a capellina. A fire is built around the capellina, and the mercury is separated by distil lation in about four days. The block of Bilver which remains is transported to the nearest mint, and worked into coin or sold. The law of Mexico com- * Native sulphide of iron and copper. 268 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. pels the owners of haciendas de beneficios to send their silver to the mint. If the owner wishes to export the bullion, he must first obtain a certificate from the director of the establishment. N. B. — A picture of the patio process may be found on p. 198. The peons are searched, when leaving the silver-works, at the end of the day's work, as fragments of the precious metal are often concealed in their hair and clothing. (See p. 81.) The prison, or carcel, is worthy of a visit. It occupies an eminence in the heart of the city, near the causeway (calzada), and was formerly a castle. It was also the last stronghold of the Spaniards in Guanajuato during the great revolution. The castle was defended with fire-arms, while the Mexicans had merely primitive weapons, such as clubs, knives, missiles, etc. Finding the fortress impregnable, the latter approached the gate on all-fours, with flat stones on their backs to serve as armor, and set fire to it. The Spanish oppressors surrendered, and the natives decapitated four of the leaders, and hung their heads in the corners of the court-yard of the castle. The prison is a two-storied building, about 150 feet long and 75 feet wide. The inmates work at various trades. The traveler should ascend the Cerro de San Miguel, which lies south of the mint, and about twenty minutes' walk from the plaza, to obtain a correct idea of the location of Guanajuato. It will be seen that the city is built in a gorge, surrounded by rolling hills. The narrow streets are winding, and they have a cobble-stone pavement. The tourist is reminded of the towns in the Swiss Alps. Look ing across the city, the observer has a fine view of the prin cipal suburbs, the mines being chiefly on the northern and western sides of Guanajuato . There are some foreigners living in the city. They are mostly French, although a few Germans, Spaniards, Eng lishmen, and Americans can be included in the number. THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 269 The inhabitants are disposed to introduce modern inven tions, such as the electric light and telephone. A New York company has erected seventy-five telephones, many of which connect the mines with the houses and offices of the owners. The greater part of the population of Guanajuato con sists of miners, who are an industrious and well-to-do class of people. On Sundays they dress up in their best clothes, and walk on the plaza and paseo with their families. The tourist can spend a week in Guanajuato to advan tage, during which an excursion may be made to Dolores Hidalgo, about 35 miles northeast of the city. (See p. 263. ) 3. From Guanajuato to Lagos, 115 kilometres, or 72 miles. Leaving Guanajuato, the stage-coach sets out from the door of the hotel, and connects with the train at Marfil, 5 kilometres distant. The track has a downward grade nearly all the way to Silao, 18 kilometres farther. The railroad company has erected a large wooden station and freight- house at the latter point. This branch road carries large quantities of quicksilver, salt, and magistral to Marfil for the silver-reducing works. (See p. 267.) From Silao the road continues in a northwest course through the fertile plain, passing the station of Trinidad (402 kilometres), and reaches Leon (416 kilometres). The grade ascends slightly to a point just west of Trinidad, having an altitude of 5,963 feet, and then descends toward Leon. LEON. Population, about 80,000 ; elevation, 5,862 feet. Hotels. — Comercio, de la Luz, Colon. Tramways run to the city, 1-J mile north of the station ; fare, 10 cents for each passenger. The towers of the cathedral and several domes of the churches are visible from the train. Leon is noted for its manufactories of saddles and leathern goods, and a quarry of building-stone is found near 270 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. the town. Lt is said to have had 166,000 inhabitants in 1865. The residents claim that their city is second to the national capital in population. It is, however, greatly in ferior to Guadalajara and Puebla in mercantile importance and in objects of interest. There is very little wealth in Leon. The city lies near the terminus of the rich cereal belt of the table-land, which is about 80 miles long, and from 21 to 26 miles wide, according to Humboldt. From Leon the railroad goes northwesterly, with an ascending grade toward Lagos. Passing the stations of Rincon (431 kilometres), Pedrito (448 kilometres), and Loma (462 kilometres), the train arrives at Lagos (475 kilo metres). This city is 13£ hours' journey from the capi tal. On October 15, 1883, trains were running to Encar- nacion, 41 miles beyond Lagos. LAGOS. Population, 10,000; elevation, 6,153 feet. Hotel. — Diligencias. Stage-coaches leave Lagos as follows : For Guadalajara, 2 days dis tant; fare, $14. For Zacatecas, 2 days distant; fare, $10. For San Luis Potosi, 2 days distant ; fare, $10. A special diligence for San Luis Potosi in 16 hours ; fare, $12.50. 4. From Lagos to Guadalajara and San Blas. Guadalajara lies about 130 miles west-southwest of Lagos. The road is a rough one, and two days are required for the trip. The Mexican Central Eailway Company will extend its line over this route to Guadalajara, and thence to San Bias. (See p. 272.) GUADALAJAKA. Population, 78,600 in 1879; elevation, 5,052 feet Hotels. — Nacional, Hidalgo, Diligencias, and Nuevo Mundo. The city is situated in latitude 20° 41' north, and on the west bank of the Rio de Santiago (the largest river in THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 271 Mexico except the Rio Grande). It is the capital of the State of Jalisco. The houses are well built, and the streets are wide and laid out at right angles. Some travelers con sider Guadalajara to be the finest city in the Eepublic. Lying far in the interior, and remote from the railway, it has not been affected by foreign influence. Places of Interest.— 1. The Cathedral and Sagrario. 2. The Gov ernment Palace. 3. The Bishop's Palace. 4. The Mint. 5. The City Hall. 6. The Academy of Fine Arts. 7. The Plaza de Armas. 8. The Alameda. Plaza de Armas, Guadakyara. The first three buildings are situated on the Plaza de Armas. The Cathedral was completed in 1618, and is one of the oldest in Mexico. The cupolas of both towers were destroyed by the great earthquake of May 31, 1818. The city can boast of fourteen public squares, a univer sity, and an academy of fine arts— the only one in the Ee public except that of San Carlos at the capital. Much glazed pottery is made here ; it is quite ornamental, and 13 272 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. may be found in the shops at the' City of Mexico. There are several woolen and cotton manufactories in Guadalajara. Opinions are divided as to whether this city or Puebla should rank next to Mexico in wealth and commercial im portance. Guadalajara lies in a fertile region. The cereals, fruits, and vegetables grow in abundance. Some farms are said to yield as much as forty bushels of Indian corn to the acre. The following table of distances will be found useful : From Guadalajara to the City of Mexico via Lagos 424 miles. •' " Tepic 258 " 14 " San Bias 300 " " Colima 142 " " Manzanillo 211 " " Morelia 191 " " " Aguascalientes 149 " An excursion may be made to the Lake of Chapala, about 40 miles distant. This lake is the largest in Mexico, having an area of 415 square miles. (See p. 30.) There are several islands in it, on one of which ruins have been found. A small American steamboat makes a tour round the lake daily. The depth of Lake Chapala has not yet been ascertained. Diligences run from Guadalajara to San Bias, 300 miles distant, via the villages of Amatitan, Tequila, Lxtlan, Te- titan, Zapotlan, and Tepic. The latter place is a manu facturing town of 20,000 inhabitants. It is noted for pro ducing a fine quality of cigars. The elevation of Tepic is 3,050 feet. The Mexican Central Eailway Company will build a branch line from Guadalajara, toward San Bias, which will run parallel to the stage route, or nearly so. It is expected that this branch will be finished in 1886. San Bias has a population of 3,500. The Pacific Mail steamers touch at this port once a month. The distance to San Francisco is 1,519 miles, and the fare is $85. GUADALAJARA DIVISION. List of Stations, with the Distances. Irapuato to Guadalajara, 259-1 kilometres, or 161 miles. Distance from Irapuato. STATIONS. Distance from Guadalajara KUoe. o-o Kilos. 259-1 24 0 50-0 235-1209-1 64-184-791-3 113-0 La Piedad * Patti f 195-0 174 4 167-8 146-1 126-5 148-0153-1 132-6110-6106-0 1672 919 179-3 79-8 196-8 62-3 218-4 40-7 226-1 235-5 259-1 El Castillo f 33-023-6 o-o * Telegraph stations. f Flag-stations. * Eating-house. \ Connection is made with Lake Chapala. This branch line was begun on May 2, 1887, and completed on April 17, 1888. It is expected that the Guadalajara division will derive con siderable business from Lake Chapala, which it touches by means of the Lerma Kiver at La Barca, and at Ocotlan. The president of the company is unable to say when the line from Guadalajara westward to the Pacific will be commenced. By an amend ment to the concession in 1886, the company can choose some other port than San Bias if it wishes. SAN LUIS POTOSI DIVISION. List of Stations, with the Distances. Distance fr'm Aguas- calieutes. STATIONS. Distance from Salinas. Kilos. o-o 14-3 31-0 San Luis Junction* Gallardo f Kilos. 109-9 9.V6 78-9 50-8 San Gil* 59-1 59 0 82-8 San Marcos f 50-9 27-1 93-8 109-9 ... . Salinas* 16-1 o-o * Telegraph stations. \ Flag-stations. (For description of Salinas, see p. 280.) N. B. — This branch will reach San Luis Potosi in the spring of 1889, and the eastern division, from this city to Tampico, on the Gulf, will be finished on or before January 1, 1890. (Vide pp. ]57, 240, and 292.) The port of Tampico is formed by the union of the Tamesi and Pdnuco Rivers, but the bar at the mouth at present prevents the entrance of vessels - drawing more than eight or ton feet, although there are times when there is a greater depth of water over the bar. This locality was examined by Captain J. B. Eads, and by engineers under his direction, and also by engineers in the employ of the Mexican Central Railway Company. Some borings and soundings have been made. It is believed that a canal can be formed over the bar by constructing two lines of jetties which will open a deep and permanent channel. The company has already obtained a concession from the Government to do this work, with a. subsidy of $3,000,000 six-per-cent Government bonds ; the company to retain possession of the works and the entrance to the port for thirty-five years, and as much longer as may be necessary, until the whole of the Government bonds, both principal and interest, have been paid. The harbor of Tampico is larger than that of Corpus Christi. The dis tance of the former from the city of Mexico, via the Mexican Central, is only 768 miles, or 213 miles less than from Corpus Christi. THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 273 The climate of San Bias is hot and very unhealthy. There are dense for ests of tropical fruit- trees and plants in the vicinity. 5. From Lagos to Zaca tecas; distance, 141 miles by railroad. Leaving Lagos, the track runs near ly due northward. The road leads over a fertile plain, where thecerealsareraised. Soon the country be comes rolling, and cultivation decreases in going toward Aguascalientes. There is a very sparse population in this region. Passing several hamlets, the train enters the city of Aguascalientes, 71 miles from Lagos. (See p. 270.) aguascalibktes. Population, 35,000; elevation, 6,261 feet, according to Burkart. Hotels. — Diligencias and Nacional. Baths on the Alameda, which is reached by horse-cars ; hot baths at 20 and 25 cents. Places of Inteeest. — The Cathedral, Plaza de Armas, and the Paseo. The latter is one of the finest parks in the country. The main line of the Mexican Central Railway was completed to the city during the current year, and the branch from Tampico to San Luis Potosi will probably be extended to this point. ( Vide p. 238.) Leaving Aguascalientes, the railroad traverses a flat country that is barren for the most part. The stations 274 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. are : Rincon de Roma (24 miles), Soledad (37 miles), Gua dalupe (69 miles), and Zacatecas (71 miles). The last- named station is 435 miles, or 701£ kilometres, from the City of Mexico. Some interesting ruins of Indian architecture are found at Quemada, about 30 miles southwest of Zacatecas, and 2£ miles north of the village of La Quemada, at an eleva tion of 7,406 feet above the sea-level. The remains are situated on a rocky eminence that rises abruptly from the plain. It is called "El Cerro de los Edificios." The summit is reached by a causeway. An area of six acres has been inclosed by a broad wall, forming a sort of citadel. This barrier surrounds a quadrangle 240 x 200 feet, which to the east is sheltered by a strong wall of unhewn stones, eight feet in thickness and eighteen in height. A raised terrace of twenty feet in width passes round the northern and eastern sides of this space, and on its southeast corner is yet standing a round pillar of rough stones of the same height as the wall, and nineteen feet in circumference. There are vestiges of five other pillars on the eastern, and four on the northern terrace. There is another quad rangle surrounded by perfect walls of the same height and thickness as the former one, and measuring 134 x 137 feet. This space contains fourteen columns of equal dimensions with that of the adjacent inclosure. They were made of clay mixed with straw. There is a flat-topped pyramid of hewn stown in one of the quadrangles. Two small pyramids may also be seen. One chamber has an irregular structure 7x5 feet near the center. It was probably an altar, and the room may have been used as the Hall of Sacrifice or Assembly. These ruins are probably the work of the Aztecs. At Guadalupe, 4 miles from Zacatecas, the land rises rapidly. The former town is seen in the distance several THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 275 miles before it is reached. It contains many furnaces and silver-mills, in which the ores from Zacatecas are worked. On account of the presence of sulphur, the ores are gener- 276 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. ally roasted before being treated in the crushing and re ducing-mills. The stage-coach enters a canon at Guadalupe, and, traveling up a heavy grade, the old mining settlement of Zacatecas is reached. The latter place is 71 miles from Aguascalientes, and the time required to make the dis tance is 3^ hours. ZACATECAS. Population, 46,000, including Guadalupe; elevation, 9,012 feet,* accord ing to Burkart. Hotels. — Zacatecdno, Del Comercio, Nacional, and Del Progreso. Baths, in the Plaza de Armas. Post-Office in the Calle de la Moneda. Horse-Cars to Guadalupe (see time-table). Zacatecas is one of the oldest mining towns in Mexico. It received the title of city in 1585 from Philip II. The streets are well paved and somewhat tortuous, although not as much so as in Guanajuato. The city is not behind the age, even if lately (1884) reached by the Central Eail way, and a considerable distance from any seaport. The electric light shines on the plaza, and a number of tele phones are in use. Zacatecas lies in an arid and mountain ous region, with an inclement climate. Places of Interest. — 1. The Cathedral ; observe carvings on the facade. 2. The Palace. 3. The Mint. 4. The Bufa, a hill north of the city. 5. The silver-mines. There are fourteen churches of minor importance and a Protestant chapel. Some of them are ornamented with ar tistic gilt wooden carvings and old paintings, that were transported to the city at enormous expense. The tourist should ascend the Bufa, about 500 feet above the plaza, for a view of the city and its environs. There is a small chapel on the summit, known as the * This is too high an estimate ; 8,000 feet would be more correct. THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 277 Capilla de la Bufa. It is worthy of remark that several kinds of igneous rocks occur near each other on this moun tain. The observer will see that the city is built in a valley, surrounded by rolling hills, which contain numerous mines. He stands on top of a ridge that rises from the great table land. To the westward lies the spur of the Sierra Madre, which extends nearly to the Pacific coast. There are many low ridges running north and south, that are situated on the eastern and northern sides of the Zacatecas range. The country is very barren, scarcely a particle of vegetation being visible. The broad plain below has an elevation of about 7,000 feet, and there are nine small lakes of salt and carbonate of soda in this plain, a few miles from Zacatecas. This salt is transported to Guadalupe for use in the silver- mills. The geological formation of this district has been compared by Humboldt to that of Switzerland. The mines next demand attention. In mineral wealth Zacatecas is the richest State in Mexico. The district, however, which includes the city, does not rank first. In 1804 Humboldt placed Zacatecas third in a list of the principal mining towns. Guanajuato ranks first and Catorce second in the pro duction of the precious metals. The Veta Grande, or great vein, is next in magnitude to the Veta Madre of Guana juato. Its average width is about 25 feet, and in a few places it has a breadth of 75 feet, although the entire mass is not metalliferous. The mines of Zacatecas began to be worked in 1548. Up to the year 1732 they are said to have produced the enormous sum of $832,232,880, on which a tax of $46,523,000 was paid to the Spanish treas ury. About 1728 the mines of Zacatecas yielded $1,800,000 annually, which was then estimated as one fifth of all the silver coined in Mexico. During the "War of Independence, the amount of pre- 278 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. cious metal extracted greatly diminished ; and at the pres ent time (1885) these mines are not doing well. It remains to be seen whether their wealth is exhausted, or whether new bodies of ore will yet be found in paying quantities. There are a dozen mines within a half-hour's walk of the principal hotels, and which can readily be visited. It is best to go in the morning. A series of ladders is used in most of them, instead of the massive stone steps as in Guanajuato. The largest mine is the San Rafael, and the oldest one bears the name of the famous Cortes. The latter is about two miles north of the city. An English company owns the Clerigos mine. Two other mines in the vicinity are also owned by Englishmen. There is one American company in Zacatecas, called the Chicago and Mexican Syn dicate, that controls several mines in this district. Stage-coaches run from Zacatecas as follows : To San Luis Potosi, distance 156 miles; fare, $12.00. " Jerez, " 40 " " 1.50. " Villa Nueva, " 65 " " 1.25. " Durango, " 234 4I " 14.00. A well-known Mexican, named Sada, has run a line of ambulances, called "the money-train," from Zacatecas to Monterey for many years. Before the Mexican National Eailway was built, Sada drove his wagons as far as the fron tier, at Laredo. The time required to reach Monterey is six days and a half, and the fare is $40, including board and lodging on the journey. A dozen mounted guards ac company the train. Bullion and silver coin are carried chiefly, although packages and personal baggage will also be forwarded. The route to Monterey traverses an arid .and barren region, having a gently undulating surface, and very little vegetation, except the various species of cactus. The road goes via the hacienda de Cedres and Saltillo. This hacienda is the only redeeming feature of the trip, and it is one of the largest in Northern Mexico. There aro THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 279 some silver-mines on it, as well as many horses, cattle, and sheep. The train of ambulances starts about daybreak, and travels till noon ; then a long rest is taken, after which the wagons continue the journey till sundown. Many extra mules follow the train, and, when one of the animals grows tired, a change is at once made.* Zacatecas is nearly the southernmost town in which Americans have in vested capital in mines. They have, however, lately purchased mineral property at Sombrerete and at Durango. The city of Durango is three days' journey by diligence from Zacatecas. The population of the city is 35,000, and, according to Humboldt, the alti tude is 6,847 feet. It is situated in the plain of San Antonio, about 30 miles east of the Sierra Madre. Durango is the capital of the State of the same name, and lies in latitude 24° 2' north. Near the city of Durango is the famous iron mountain, El Cerro del Mercado. This hill i3 one mile long, one third of a mile wide, and from 400 to 600 feet in height. It is composed of two varieties of iron-ores, magnetite and hematite (see p. 78), and is perhaps the largest and richest deposit of iron in the world. In 1881 a corporation known as the Iron Mountain Company wa3 or ganized under the laws of the State of New York, with a capital stock of $10,000,010, to work the ores of the Cerro del Mercado. This company expects to make Durango the seat of the largest iron-manufacturing industry in North America. A blast-furnace is in course of erection near the mountain, and fuel, fire-clay, and limestone are abundant in the vicinity. Referring to the future development of the Cerro del Mercado, Ward stated, in 1827, that there is no article in Mexico for which the demand is greater than for iron, and none whose supply from Europe is attended with so many disadvantages. The same writer predicts that " the advantages for manufacturing iron will be duly apparent when Durango becomes, as it will in a few years, the field of work ... of some great foreign or native company of capitalists, by whose labors the resources of the country will first be fully developed." Ward also prophesied that, if a foreign company should start in Durango, it would receive the warmest support, and that city might be rendered the depot of iron for Sombrerete, Zacatecas, Catorce, Batopilas, and all the districts south of Chihuahua. * Sefior Sada intends shifting his line from Zacatecas to Matamoros, and thence to Saltillo, to connect with the Mexican National Railway (see p. 288). 280 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. A railroad is in course of construction from Zacatecas to San Luis Po tosi. The concession is granted to the Mexican National Railway Company. The intervening region is arid and very barren for the most part. A few cattle and sheep are raised along the proposed route, and the country is gently rolling. Ojo Caliente, about 25 miles from Zacatecas, is a town of some importance. It has a good hotel, adjoining a fine grove of trees. From this place to Las Salinas the country is covered with nopal, taza- hillo, huisachi, and dagger-plant, interspersed with a little mesquite. There are several salt lagoons at Las Salinas, as the name suggests, and the owner, Sefior Erazos, has built a stately residence, which is surrounded by a stone wall and a deep moat. A draw-bridge across the moat is raised at night, reminding the traveler of the baronial castles of the middle ages. The country between this town and San Luis Potosi is rolling, and a portion of it is adapted to grazing. Some maguey grows along the route. (For description of San Luis Potosi, see pp. 237-240.) Route II. 1. El Paso to Chihuahua. 2. Chihuahua to Jimenez. 1. From El Paso to Chihuahua. Distance, 225 miles ; time, 14 hours. One passenger-train daily. EL PASO, TEXAS. Population, 3,000; elevation, 3,600 feet. Hotels. — Central, Windsor, and Pierson House. El Paso is a great railway center, and is destined to grow rapidly within a brief period. Eeal estate is becoming higher in price, and the rents for all classes of buildings are said to be enormous. There is a union depot occupied by the Southern Pacific and the Missouri Pacific Railways. The Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Eailroad Company has also a depot. The last-named line makes connection with the Mexican Central Eailway, and it is the most desirable route from the eastern and central cities of the United States to Mexico in the summer season, which will hence forth be the time when most travelers will approach Mexico by land. THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 281 Leaving El Paso, the train crosses a six-pile bent trestle- bridge over the Rio Grande* which connects this town with Paso del Norte. An iron bridge will soon take the place of the trestle-work. There is besides a small-pile CJmrch and Plaza, El Paso. trestle-bridge, owned and operated by the horse-car com pany, which is also used as a highway for wagons and pe destrians. The population of Paso del Norte is about 7,000. (Hotel Gallardo.) This town is the terminus of the Mexican Central Eail- * The width of the Rio Grande varies from 300 to 600 feet in the vicinity of El Paso. 282 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. way, although the company's trains are run across the river to El Paso. Leaving Paso del Norte, the following stations are passed: Distance from Paso Del Noetb. Miles. 3074 96 139104 181192 210224 Stations. Paso Del Norte. Samalayuca San Jose Ojo Caliente. . . . Gallego Laguna Encinillas Sacramento. Chihuahua. . Elevations. Feet. 3,600 4,300 3,950 4,090 5,360 5,060 5,168 4',690 The country between Paso del Norte and Chihuahua is well .adapted to grazing. There are several large mining districts on either side of the line of the railroad, at dis tances varying from ten to a hundred miles. The mines are chiefly of silver, although there is an extensive deposit of iron-ore near Ojo Caliente. About 100 miles west of Samalayuca lies the old presidio or military post of Janos. It is 35 miles north of the ruined town of Casas Grandes, which is about half a mile distant from the modern town of the same name. The remains lie adjacent to a fertile valley about two miles in width. They are built of adobe, and are called the "Casas de Montezuma." They face the cardinal points, and consist of fallen and erect walls. The latter are from five to thirty feet in height. The edifices resemble the Pueblo dwellings of Arizona and New Mexico. Fragments of pottery have been found in them. The original buildings are supposed to have had three stories and a roof, with stairs outside, probably of wood. Passengers on the Chihuahua division of this road gen- %Vtl Of " 8 284 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. erally travel either in the first or second class cars, the proportion being evenly divided. There is but little third- class travel. The freight carried by this company consists of lumber, coal, machinery, live-stock, and general mer chandise. Bullion is transported in considerable quanti ties by Wells, Fargo and Company's Express. Casas Grandes, Chihuahua. CHIHUAHUA. Population, 17,500, of which about 1,500 are foreigners ; elevation, 4,690 feet. Hotels. — American and National. Baths, on the upper Alameda. Telegraph and Post-Office, on the main plaza. Bankers, Messrs F. MaeManus & Sons. Chihuahua, the capital of the State of the same name, lies on a broad plain at the base of the Sierra Madre, in north latitude 28° 35' 10". The city was settled toward the close of the seventeenth century by some adventurers, for the purpose of working the rich silver-mines in the vicinity. In 1833 the popu lation was 10,600, and in 1853 it was 12,000. Places of Interest.— 1. The Churches of La Parrdquia (or Cathedral), Guadalupe, and San Felipe. 2. The College of the Jesuits, in the rear of THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 285 which the great revolutionary leaders Hidalgo and Allende were beheaded. 3. The Palace. 4. The Tribunal of Justice. 5. The Mint. 6. The Alhon- diga, or granary. 7. The Aqueduct (6,068 yards long). The Cathedral, or parochial church, stands on the plaza. It is built of cut stone of a very light color, and has two towers and a dome. The exterior is very imposing. The church cost $800,000. It was erected from a fund raised by levying a tax of one real on every mark * of silver ob tained from the mines of Santa Eulalia, fifteen miles dis tant. Fruit, vegetables, and the cereals grow in the environs of the city. There is fine grazing-land in Chihuahua. In 1871 the American consul reported that there were 800,000 sheep and 250,000 cattle in the State. The climate is salubrious, the temperature ranging from 16° to 94° Fahr. May, June, and July are the warmest months, but the nights are always cool and pleasant during this season. The rains begin about the 25th of June, and last till the middle of October. 2. From Chihuahua to Jimenez, 146-3 miles. On June 1, 1883, this section of the road was finished, and trains began to run about August 1st. Leaving Chihuahua, we pass through a grazing coun try for about 50 miles, when the valley of the San Pedro Eiver is reached. Maize, wheat, and cotton are grown here. Proceeding southward, we enter the valley of the Conchos f Eiver, near the station of Santa Rosalia. The altitude of Santa Rosalia is 4,022 feet, and the dis tance from Chihuahua 101 miles. This town is famous for its sanitary hot springs, being regarded as one of the finest health resorts in Mexico. In traveling through the Eepub- * Eight dollars. f This river flows northerly and empties into the Rio Grande near the town of Presidio del Norte. 286 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. lie the tourist will observe that isolated houses are rare, the population being for the most part gathered in communi ties. Fifty miles south of Santa Rosalia we reach the val ley of the Florido Eiver, where the cereals and some cotton are cultivated. The rich mining district of Santa Bar bara lies about 50 miles to the southwest. We soon ar rive at Jimenez, a town of about 8,000 inhabitants, which is situated near the Rio Florido. The stations on this division are : Miles from Chihuahua. Concho 78-4 La Cruz 91-1 Santa Rosalia 101-0 Bustamante 1 10'8 Florido 122-7 La Reforma 133-6 146-3 Miles from Chihuahua. Chihuahua 00 Mapula 14'4 Horcasitas 28'3 Bachimba 39-1 Ortiz 54-2 Las Delicias 58'7 Saucillo 68'7 From Jimenez a diligence runs daily to Parral, distance 60 miles ; fare, $5. The mines of Parral are famous, hav ing yielded silver of the value of $60,000,000. These ore- deposits, together with those of Batopilas and Jesus Maria, are the most important in Cliihuahua. Route III. Jimenez to Zacatecas, 414 "5 miles. Leaving Jimenez, where the altitude is 4,531 feet, the track trends southeasterly as far as Lerdo, 144-2 miles dis tant. Passing the stations of Dolores and Corralitos, the land rises slightly, and then descends to Saez (elevation 3,900 feet). Here the railroad enters the State of Durango. The train continues on a downward grade through the sta tions of Yermo, Conejos, and Peronal to Mapimi (eleva tion 3,694 feet, and 491-8 miles from Paso del Norte). The last-named town lies in the southern part of the Bolson de Mapimi, an arid, desolate plateau, with little vegetation THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 287 except the "thorny weeds," such as the tuna cactus, and Spanish bayonet, and the mesquite-tvee, whose roots are much used for fuel. Patches of grass, on which a few cat tle graze, are occasionally seen. In this entire region, extending on the line of railway from Jimenez southeasterly nearly 150 miles, there are, save the station just mentioned, no towns worthy of the name. Except in summer, the dust is almost insufferable. Arti ficial tanks, to catch the rains and store water, are common. Mines of gold, silver, and lead occur near the station of Mapimi. A diligence runs thence to the city of Durango. (Vide -p. 279.) The next station on the line is No4, after which comes Villa Lerdo, or Lerdo, 515 -2 miles from Paso del Norte. Lerdo (population 9,000, elevation 3,726 feet) lies in the " laguna country," a very fertile region, where much cotton, grain, and sugar-cane are grown. It is an empo rium of the cotton-trade. The annual yield of this com modity is said to be 30,000 bales, all of which is consumed in the Eepublic ; and there is reason to believe that the production of cotton in the " laguna country " will soon be greatly increased. The Mexican International Eailroad, beginning at Pie dras Negras, on the Rio Grande, will connect with the Mexican Central at or near Lerdo. ( Vide p. 323.) At pres ent the eating-house at Lerdo consists of a first-class pas senger-car, which will soon be replaced by a permanent structure. In fact, the company is constantly erecting new stations and shops, as well as making various improve ments. The town of Parras lies about 100 miles east of Lerdo. (Vide p. 243.) The following is a list of the various ranches along the line of the railway, as far as Villa Lerdo : Samalayuca, 1,500 head of cattle; San JosS, 3,000 head of cattle; Cor- ralitos, 10,000 cattle and 30,000 sheep; Santo Domingo, 3,000 head of 288 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. cattle ; Ojo Caliente, 1,000 head of cattle ; Carmen, 3,000 head of cattle and 30,000 sheep; Gallego, 3,000 head of cattle; San Lorenzo, 60,000 sheep; Encinillas, 6,000 head of cattle; Agua Nueva, 4,000 cattle and 6,000 sheep ; Torreon, 4,000 cattle and 10,000 sheep ; Sauz, 6,000 cattle ; Sacramento, 2,000 cattle ; Labor, 1,500 cattle ; Tabalopu, farming, and 1,000 cattle; Rancho de Avilos, 1,500 cattle; Mapula, 6,000 cattle; Rancho Viego, 5,000 cattle ; Bachimba, 4,000 cattle ; Dolores, farming ; Saucillo, cotton and grain ; Santa Gertrudes, 7,000 cattle ; San Dais, 2,500 cattle ; La Cruz, farming ; Santa Rosalia, hot sulphur springs, cotton, and grain ; Enremoda, 3,000 cattle ; Jimenez, farming ; Corralles, 2,000 cattle ; Gen eral Grande, not stocked ; Cadena, 2,000 cattle ; San Isidro, 2,000 cattle and 40,000 sheep ; Membrea, 50,000 sheep ; Villa Lerdo, cotton, grain, and sugar-cane. Leaving Lerdo, the line for 30 miles runs nearly south. The first station is Matamoros (elevation 3,757-6 feet) in the State of Coahuila. A tri-weekly diligence runs from Matamoros to Saltillo; fare, $18.50. Then the track enters Durango again near Picardias. The railway now runs southeasterly through the State of Coahuila for about 80 miles, passing the stations of Jalisco and Jimulco. From Jimulco diligences run tri-weekly to the follow ing points : To Chorro ; fare, $8.75. " Horrio ; ,l 6.88. " Tdpias; " 5.00. " Corralitos ; " 3.75. 14 Cuencame * ,- " 2.50. " San Diego ; " 1.50. Proceeding further, we pass the stations of Peralta, Cal- vo, La Mancha, Symonj (elevation 5,146 feet), and San Isidoro. At Camacho, the next station (642-6 miles from Paso del Norte), the track enters the State of Zacatecas, and continues therein to a point 15 miles beyond the city of the * Cuencame is the seat of large silver-smelting furnaces. f The maximum grade from El Paso south to Symon is but 37 feet to the mile. Complete List of Stations from PASO DEL NORTE southward to MEXIOO, with the Distances from the Fokmer. Paso del Norte to Mexico, 1,970 kilometres, or 1224-1 miles. . STATIONS. Paso del Norte Mesa Tierra Blanca . Samalayuca . . . Los Medano.s. . Candelaria .... Rancheria San Jose\ ... . . Carmen Ojo Caliente... Las Minas Montezuma . . . Chivatito Gallego Puerto Laguna Agua Nueva . . Encinillas Sauz Torreon Sacramento . . . Chihuahua Mapula Horcasitas Bachimha Ortiz Las Delieias . . . Saucillo Concho.. ...... La Cruz Santa Rosalia. Bustamante. . . Diaz La Eeforma. . . Jimenez Dolores Corralitos Rellano Escalon Zavalza Saez Yermo Conejos Peronal Mipimi Noe Lerdo Matamoros Picardias Jalisco Jimulco Peralta Calvo La Maneha Symon Miles. States. o-o Chihuahua. 10 •9 44 19 •9 41 29 •9 41 41 2 44 47 9 a 59 0 44 74 0 a 88 2 44 95 2 a 103 6 44 111 8 121 3 44 139 3 u 151 9 44 164 5 44 172 9 44 181 5 u 193 8 :t 201 1 44 210 5 14 224 7 44 239 0 253 0 44 263 8 44 278 9 44 283 4 44 293 4 44 303 1 44 315 8 44 325 7 44 335 5 44 347 4 14 359 1 44 371 0 44 380 1 ii 392 2 44 405 5 L( 41 6 7 U 425 7 U 437 2 Durango. 448 9 a 463 5 44 476 9 44 491 8 44 504 2 a 51 5 2 a 528 6 Coahuila. 544 3 Durango. 553 2 Coahuila. 562 1 44 571 7 44 586 6 599 •6 44 614 •6 STATIONS. San Isidoro Camacho Gonzalez Guzman Pacheeo La Colorada Cedro Canitas Gutierrez Mendoza Fresnillo Calera Zacatecas Guadalupe Summit Soledad Eincon de Komos. Aguascalientes Pefiuelas Encamacion Santa Maria Las Salas Loma Pedrito Francisco Leon Trinidad Silao Villalobos Irapuato Chico Salamanca Guaje Celaya Apaseo Mariscala Queretaro Hercules Ahorcado San Juan del Eio. Cazadero Polotitlan Dafiu Nopala Marquez Lena Angeles .'. San Antonio Tula El Salto Nochistongo Huehuetoca Teoloyucan Cuautitlan Lecheria Barrientos Tlalnepantla Mexico Miles. 629-0 642-6 655-9 668-1 680-0695-9 708-8717-2730-9 740-3749-7767-1785-5 791-6801-1823-8836-5860-5873-9890-3900-7916-0929-0937-4946-0 955-6 965-7974-3 986 4 994-6 1004-91010-61017-51031-41042-8 1051-0 1060-11071-5 1074-31089-81105-7 1124-01129-7 1138-4 1143-4 1148-51150-41154-11165-91174-41185-3 1191-5 1195-21201-71206-9 1211-11212-9 1216-8 1224-1 States. Coahuila. Zacatecas. Aguascalientes. Jalisco. Guanajuato. Quere'taro. Hidalgo. Mexico. . Hidalgo. Mexico. a Hidalgo.Mexico. Federal District. MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY COMPANY, LIMITED. — Stage- Coach Line Connections with Mexican Central Railway. Note.— At tho stations marked thus * tho diligences do not run during the rainy season. FEOM- TO- Celaya (t * Calera u Chihuahua . . it *Encarnacion *Escalon. . . ¦::- it *Francisco . . * u * u Fresnillo. . . . 11 it ' u Guadalajara . ti ii it Jimenez Days of departure. Santa Cruz Cortazar Fresnillo Zacatecas Cusihuiriachic Carachic Canton Guerrero Tcocaltiche Sierra Mojada (0. Sada).. " " (Garza Garcia) Leon Piedragorda ... Leon Durango Sombrerete Sain Alto Chalchihuites Ameca Izatlan Zapotlan Cocula Tepic Parral Allende Daily Tuesday and Friday . it ti it it Tues., Thurs., and Sat. Daily Tues., Thurs., and Sat. Mon., Wed., and Fri. ti tt Mondays Tuesdays Mon., Wed., and Fri. . Mon., Wed., and Sat. . Monday and Thursday. Daily ' Dis tance. Leagues 7 :;« 5053 14 33 33 6 12 6 823220 44 2828 40 20 7020 7 Time occupied. 3-J hrs. 2 " 3 ' 3 " 12 " 28 " 30 ' 7 " 14 ' 14 ' 2 " 4 " 2 " 3 days. 2 " i day. 2| days. 1 day. 1 " 2 days. 1 day. 3 days. 10 hrs. Fare. $0 5025 5050 10 00 15 00 15 00 2 00 6 00 3 5050 1 0025 10 20 4 08 2 04 6 12 3 00 3 00 7 00 2 50 20 40 5 00 Baggage. Free. Lbs. 2525 25 25252525 25 25 25 25 25252525252525252525252525 Excess per 25 lbs. Conventional. 4 c. per lb. 5 c. " 5 c. " 6Jc. " $1 per 25 lbs. 50 c. " Conventional. $1.50 per 25 lbs. $1 75 c. " $1.25 " 50 c. " 50 c. " $1.50 " 50 c. " $2.60 " $1.75 " MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY COMPANY, LIMITED.— Stage-Coach Line Connections with Mexican Central Railway (conl.) Note — At the stations marked thus *, the diligences do not run during the rainy season. FROM- *La Piedad * " Leon Lagos . . Picardias Queretaro San Juan del Rio . *Salamanca San Jos6 . TO- Ecuandurco Zamora S. Francisco del Rincon . Piedra Gorda San Luis Potosi Durango Cuencame^ San Jose de Iturbide . . Cadereyta Tequisquiapam . . . Valle de Santiago Sabinal . . . Ascencion . Silao Romito Symon San Juan de Guadalupe . Tula ; Misquiahuala " I CosineroS " Ixmiquilpan Zacatecas Villanueva Jerez Fresnillo . Days of departure. No time-table it Daily " except Sunday. Mon., Wed., and Fri . . it it it Tues., Thurs., and Sat. Mon., Wed , and Fri . .' Daily, except Sunday. Sundays Daily Mon., Tues., and Fri. Daily, except Sundays and feast-days. Dis tance. Leagues 9 17 6 20 4542 161414 7 7 2550 357 14 16 181414 Time occupied. 3J hrs. 6 " 2 " 8 " 2 days. H " Iday. 7 to 9 hrs. 6 hrs. 34 hrs. 3 " 24 " 30 " H 5 7 Fare. $1 50 2 50 25 1 00 10 00 10 20 3 06 2 00 1 25 621 37 50 8 00 Conven tional. 50 50 1 53 2 04 3 06 1 25 1 00 1 00 Baggage. Free. Lbs. 25252525 25 25 25 25 A reason able amt. ti 2525 25 None. 25252525 121 12J 12* Excess per 25 lbs. 25 c. per 25 lbs. 50 c. " 25 c. " 37 c. $2 " $2 50 c. " 50 c. ' No regular price. 25 c. per 25 lbs, 25 c. $3.15 Conventional. 121c per 25 lbs. 50 c. " $1 $1 18 c. 18 c. 18 c. THE MEXICAN CENTRAL RAILWAY. 289 same name Prom Camacho the line trends south to La Colorada, 53 miles. Thence the course of the road is southwesterly to Fresnillo (population 15,000, and eleva t)on 6,861 -7 feet). The district of Fresnillo was discovered m.1569. It contains rich silver-mines, the principal of which are in the Cerro del Proano. Diligences run tri-weekly from Fresnillo to Durango; fare, 115. Fresnillo is the nearest town on the railway to the min ing district of Sombrerete, where much capital has lately been invested by Americans. From Fresnillo the train goes southeast past the station of Qalera to Zacatecas (elevation 8,011-5 feet), 785-5 miles from Paso del Norte. ( Vide p. 276.) The Mexican Central Eailway was completed, near the station of Fresnillo, on March 8, 1884. The 1,224 miles were built in about three years and six months, i. e., at the rate of more than one mile daily during the actual time em ployed. Eight miles were laid during the last day. This is said to be the best daily record in the history of railway- construction. This line is the first completed railroad run ning from the north temperate zone into the tropics. It is also the first to connect the capitals of the two independent nations of North America. It cost, in round numbers, $32,500,000. Zacatecas to Mexico. Vide pp. 254 to 278. (The itinerary begins at the City of Mexico and goes northward to Zacatecas.) On October 1, 1885, the total "mileage" of completed track belonging to the Mexican Central was 1,354. This includes the Tampico and San Bias divisions. SECTION VI. The International and Interoceanic Eailway. Scene in Northern Mexico. (Compare with chapter on railroads.) The full name of this line is the Mexican, Orien tal, Interoceanic, and In ternational Eailway, although it is generally called the International and Interoceanic Eailway. It is popularly known as "Jay Gould's road." So little work has been done thus far that the entire region which lies along the route can only be visited by wagon or on horseback. The charter was granted on June 7, 1881. In May, 1883, this railway and the Mexican Southern Eailroad, of which General TJ. S. Grant is president, were consolidated under one management. The two roads will henceforth be known as the Mexican Southern Railroad. SECTION V.I I. The Mexican Southern Eailroad. (See chapter on railroads.) The original concession for building the Mexican South ern Eailroad was granted on May 26, 1881. We will describe the route of the former International and Interoceanic Eailway before sketching the line of the Mexican Southern proper. The first-named road was chartered to run from New Laredo,' an. the Rio Grande, to the City of Mexico, a dis tance of 680 miles. The following is a condensed itinerary of this route : A station has been erected at New Laredo, and on Sep tember 1, 1883, about 100 miles of road had been graded, but only a half-mile of track had been completed. From New Laredo the route follows the course of the Rio Grande to Mier via Guerrero. Leaving Mier, the road goes southward to China. The company has the option of constructing a branch to Mata moros, 100 miles distant from Mier. There are wagon- roads from China to Monterey (60 miles), and also to Matamoros (90 miles). The line passes to the eastward of Teran and Linares, running almost due south from China to Victoria, 270 miles from New Laredo. There is not much cultivation along this division of the railway till Victoria is reached. Here many kinds of fruit and sugar-cane, as well as wheat and Indian corn, are grown. Victoria lies on the border of the tierra templada. It is 292 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. the capital of the State of Tamaulipas, and has a popula tion of 8,000. The best hotel is the Hidalgo. This town is 271 miles from San Luis Potosi via Tula. From Victoria the line will have a southeasterly direc tion, and it will cross the Rio Pdnuco, near the village of Tanjuco, about 45 miles from its mouth. A good wagon- road goes from Victoria to Tancasneque, on the Rio Ta- Victoria and Tula Pass. mesi. A small steamer runs from the latter place down the river to Tampico. The scenery along this route is beautiful. The company has the option of building branch roads to the port of Tampico and to San Luis Potosi, but the Mexican Central Eailway Company is pushing the comple tion of its line from ibis port westward to San Luis Potosi, and has now (February, 1885) about ninety miles of track THE MEXICAN SOUTHERN RAILROAD. 293 finished. It is not probable, therefore, that the Mexican Southern will compete with the latter company. Leaving the Pdnuco Eiver, the route will be southeast erly toward Tulancingo, and thence south westward to the City of Mexico. The line will be easy to construct as far as Victoria. South of this station it will extend through the mountains on the eastern edge of the great table-land, and will require rather heavy grades * and some tunneling. This division will traverse the Huasteca country, which is one of the richest portions of the Eepublic both in agricultural prod ucts and in mineral deposits. The proximity of this railway to the seaboard should also be considered. This company has the choice of ex tending branch roads to Tuxpan and Vera Cruz. This scheme would, of course, be a formidable opposition line to the Mexican Eailway Company. Judging from the topography of the country, the new American road will be easier to construct than the Mexican Eailway. The southern division may be described as follows : Leaving the City of Mexico, the Mexican Southern Eailroad will run parallel with the Mexican Eailway (as, in the terms of the charter, it is not allowed to cross it) to Lrolo (45 miles). This division of the road will compete with the English line in the transportation of pulque to the capital. It is said that the Mexican Eailway Company makes a net profit of $1,000 a day on the "pulque" train. From Lrolo the track will be continued over a level country to Puebla (111 miles). Thence the line will run southeasterly to Tehuacan (182 miles). A tramway leads from this station to Esperanza, 31 miles distant. (Vide Section II.) The road will go south from Tehuacan, following the * Two-and-a-half per-cent grades. 294 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. course of the Rio Salado for several leagues to Arenal, where the Salado and Cuicatlan Eivers unite and form the Rio Quiotepec. Arenal is 237 miles from the capital. Three bridges will be erected in the vicinity. A branch line is in process of construction from Anton Lizardo, on the Gulf of Mex- Soene in Mexico. ico, toward Arenal, via Amapa and Tuxtepec. Anton Li zardo is 142 miles from Arenal junction. The former town is the only good port on the Gulf coast. The harbor has recently been improved. The eastern division of the Mex ican Southern Eailroad will be extended to Vera Cruz, 23 miles distant. The merchants in that city are very jealous of this railway. They foresee that it will eventually divert the foreign commerce to Anton Lizardo. But little artificial grading will be required on the east ern division, and the heaviest grade, according to the sur veys, is seventy-two feet to the mile. THE MEXICAN SOUTHERN RAILROAD. 295 From Arenal the main line will run almost due south ward along the Rio Cuicatlan through a well-timbered region to Sedas (301 miles). Thence it will go to Oaxaca (350 miles). The highest point of the route is 5,500 feet above the sea-level. f OAXACA. Population, 26,228 ; elevation, about 5,000 feet.* Hotels. — Nacional, De la Paz. The city is the capital of the State of the same name, and it has recently received the surname of the illustrious Juarez, f Sefior Busto, the well-known statistician, calls it Oaxaca de Juarez. The word Oaxaca was formerly spelled Guaxaca, being derived from the Mexican name of the city and valley of Huaxyacac in the Tzapotec country. After the Conquest, Cortes received the title of Marquis of the Valley of Oaxaca, and some of his descendants are still living in this State. Places op Interest. — The Cathedral and several old convents. Sugar-cane, maize, wheat, and barley grow in the vicin ity. The ruined palaces of Mitla lie about 25 miles east of Oaxaca. These ruins, except the teocallis, are the most accessible in Mexico. They are described in Chapter V in Part First. Leaving the city of Oaxaca, the railway will run south ward with a descending grade to Amatlan, Ejufla, and Miahuatlan. The latter town is about 65 miles distant from Puerto Angel, the principal port of the State. The Pacific Mail steamers touch there. It is also about 420 miles distant from the national capital. From Miahuatlan the road takes an easterly course over * Estimated by the author. f Juarez was a pure-blooded Tzapotec Indian from Oaxaca. 14 296 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. a rugged country to the town of Tehuantepec (523 miles), which is only ten miles from La Ventosa, on the coast. The Pacific Mail steamers stop at the adjoining port of Salina Cruz. This place has a good harbor, and will be come the terminus of the projected railway across the isth mus. The Mexican Southern Eailroad will make connec tion with the Tehuantepec Eailroad at the station of that name. The former road will be extended eastward from the town of Tehuantepec (population, 12,000) to Tonala on the coast. (See Section IX.) Tonald lies in the State of Chiapas, and the steamers of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company call at this port once a month, the distances to San Francisco and Panama being 2,204 miles and 1,223 miles, respectively. Leaving Tonala, the main line bifurcates. One branch runs northeasterly to San Cristobal, an'd the other extends to Tapachula* and thence will probably be continued to the city of Guatemala. The region traversed by the southern division of the main line of this railway lies mostly in the States of Vera Cruz, Oaxaca, and Chiapas. It is very rich in mineral deposits and in agricultural products. The climate is salubrious, and the vegetation is luxuriant along the greater part of the route. The State of Oaxaca contains valuable mines of gold, silver, iron, copper, and mercury. The cereals, brown beans, and tobacco, are grown in abundance. This State is also noted for yielding a large supply of cochineal. Petroleum is found near Puerto Angel. The States of Vera Cruz and Chiapas are rich in coffee, sugar-cane, co coa, tobacco, indigo, vanilla, and India-rubber. We may add that the former State ranks foremost in Mexico in the production of coffee and tobacco, and second in that of sugar. * Sefior M. Romero, the Mexican Minister at Washington, has resided for many years at Tapachula. THE MEXICAN SOUTHERN RAILROAD. 297 Several very wealthy and influential capitalists are stock holders in the Mexican Southern Eailroad Company. It is now believed that the main line will be completed at an early day. Senbr Matias Eomero, in an article on Rail ways in Mexico, published in the Lnternational Review for November, 1882, states that the inhabitants of Oaxaca are very anxious to have this road finished as soon as pos sible ; and that the merchants threaten to withdraw their capital from the State if the construction of the railway is delayed much longer. SECTION VIII. The Morelos Railway (Ferrocarril de Morelos). (See chapter on railroads.) This line has two divisions — one goes to Texcoco and Lrolo, and the other to Cuautla. Both are the same as far as Los Reyes, 17 kilometres from the capital. 1. From Mexico to Cuautla ; distance, 138 kilometres, or 851 miles ; time, nine hours. Two passenger-trains daily. Fares, first class, $2.70 ; sec ond class, $1.38. Leaving the station of San Lazaro, the track goes east erly past the Lake of Texcoco to Los Reyes. The old stage- road lies near the railroad, and runs parallel with it for several miles. The railway now forks, the northeastern branch being built to Texcoco (42 kilometres), and thence toward lrolo. Texcoco is famous in the history of old Mexico, or Ana- huac. (Restaur ante Universo.) It was the chief city next to Tenochtitlan. Many of the ancient kings lived here, and since the Conquest it has become an important place for the manufacture of woolen and cotton goods. The ruins of three teocallis are still visible. But to give a com plete history of Texcoco, with its relations to the Aztecs, Toltecs, and their predecessors, would require a volume, so we will not dwell upon it here. This branch extends to lrolo, in the midst of a maguey region, and is to some de gree an opposition line to the Mexican Eailway in the trans portation of pulque to the capital. It is worthy of remark THE MORELOS RAILWAY. 299 that trains of a dozen cars on the former road are often loaded with pulque in barrels between the stations of lrolo and Mexico, a distance of 77 kilometres. (See p. 293.) From Los Reyes the train runs eastward to Ayotla (25 kilometres). It then turns to the south, and skirts the Lake of Chalco, passing the stations of La Compania (35 kilometres), Tenango (47 kilometres), and, after ascending a heavy grade, reaches Amecameca (58 kilometres). AMECAMECA. Population, 10,000 ; elevation, 8,223 feet. Hotel. — At the railway-station, and meson, on the plaza. Places of Interest. — 1. The volcano of Popocatepetl. 2. The Sacro- monte. No tourist visits Amecameca for any other purpose than to ascend the great volcano. It is the culminating point * of North America, being 17,720 feet above the sea-level. The trip to the summit and back requires two days ; but, if the traveler wishes to ride and walk rapidly, and possesses ex traordinary physical powers, a day and a half will be suffi cient. He may leave the capital in the morning, and arrive at the ranch of Tlamacas, on the ridge-line between Popo catepetl and Iztaccihuatl, the same evening. The next day the great volcano may be ascended. The traveler can re turn to Amecameca in the evening, but not in time to take the afternoon train, unless he makes fast time on foot and on horseback. Before setting out, it will be advisable to obtain per mission to sleep at the cabin of Tlamacas from the owner, General Sanchez Ochoa, who now (1883) resides in, the Hotel Iturbide, at the capital. If the tourist fail to see General Ochoa, he can sleep either in the open air or in a dilapidated building at the ranch. The house which is generally used * The original measurement of Mount Saint Elias — i. e., 19,000 feet — has been found to be incorrect. 300 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. is a framed structure, with a loose board floor, and is not provided with beds nor mattresses. There are, however, earthenware pots, a few plates, and glasses — all of which are, of course, convenient even for a single night. On arrival at Amecameca, the traveler should lose no time in engaging horses and guides, and he must also pro vide himself with blankets, provisions, and an alpenstock. Sefior Francisco Noriega, who keeps a large store on the north side of the plaza, will assist the stranger in procuring the wherewithal for the trip. An extra servant, or mozo, should accompany the party, to take charge of the horses during the ascent of the volcano. One guide to each trav eler will be necessary, and it is unadvisable for a party of three or four persons to climb the peak with a single one. The cost of each guide will be five dollars, and of a mozo three dollars. Horses can be hired for a dollar a day. Having made the necessary preparations, the tourist will take the road leading out of the southeastern corner of the town, and travel nearly due east toward the Sierra. Fine wheat-fields are passed on the way, and the soil is well watered by the melting snow of the great volcano. The path soon rises, and enters a magnificent forests — a rare feature in the scenery of the table-land — where lofty pines, spruces, and firs abound. Proceeding farther, the trail from Puebla soon joins the main path from Amecameca. We now reach a growth of thick grass, and, after crossing the crest-line of the ridge and descending the eastern slope for about three hundred yards, the ranch of Tlamacas lies before us. The distance from Amecameca is about twelve miles. In starting out for the summit of Popocatepetl, the tourist is advised to leave the cabin by 4 a. m., if possible. A horse may be ridden to the edge of the snow-line, about half a mile distant. The ankles should be protected with stout gaiters or pieces of flannel, and the boots should be THE MORELOS RAILWAY. 301 well greased, with a view to keeping the feet as dry as pos sible. The guides will generally attend to the needs of the tourist, and will carry an extra wrap or cloak, together with wine and provisions, on their backs. The lower part of the peak of the volcano has a slope of about twenty degrees, while the angle increases in ascend ing until it reaches about forty-five degrees just below the summit. Travelers should keep their alpenstocks on the upper side of the incline while ascending the peak ; and, in case of a slip, the weight of the body must be immediately thrown on the alpenstock. Tourists are not tied together by a rope, as in Switzerland. The air is so rarefied that one is compelled to walk very slowly. During the latter part of the ascent it is difficult to make more than two hundred yards in an hour. In general, six hours will be required to reach the top of the peak from Tlamacas. The upper part of it is covered with ice, and is practically a glacier, having a very uneven surface. The crater is not visible until one arrives at the edge. A rough estimate of its dimensions would give the diameter at 500 yards, and the depth at 150 yards. There are sev eral fumaroles in the crater from which sulphurous-acid gas is emitted, and a small pond is to be found at the bot tom. According to the author's thermometer, the tempera ture of the air on the summit, at ten o'clock A. m., was 32° Fahr. Clouds usually envelop the peak of Popocatepetl after ten o'clock in the forenoon, and the tourist should en deavor to reach the summit by that hour. We have not space to describe the view, which is so ex tensive that a region of about 100,000 square miles in area is visible. Suffice it to say that the Gulf of Mexico (150 miles distant) may be seen on a clear day. On account of the highly rarefied atmosphere, not longer than one hour should be passed on the summit. 302 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. The descent may be made in one hour and a half. If the snow be tolerably soft, the tourist can sit on a petate, or piece of matting, with the guide, and slide down the slope. A rope is attached to the front part of the petate, which is held by the sefior, and the guide, who is seated behind, steers with his alpenstock. The operation is simi lar to coasting. Should the stranger fail to ascend the mountain the first time, he can spend two nights at the ranch of Tlama cas, and make a second attempt on the following day. The Acapulco. sooner the lungs become accustomed to the atmosphere at this great elevation the easier it will be to climb the peak. It is hardly necessary to add that the ascent of Popocatepetl is well worth the trouble and expense which it involves. A visit to the Sacromonte, one of the most famous shrines in Mexico, will be found interesting. This mount ain lies on the western side of the town of Amecameca, and THE MORELOS RAILWAY. 303 rises about 300 feet above the plain. A paved pathway leads to a chapel on the summit. There are fourteen "sta tions," each having a cross and inscription in Spanish, along this path. Many ex votos are seen at the door of the chapel. Some of them are in the form of oil-paintings, while others consist of silver arms and legs, which are hung in a glass case. An image of Nuestro Senor de Sacromonte is placed on the high altar. The saint wears a gold-embroidered cloak of velvet. Eibbons of various colors, giving the size of the head of Our Lord of the Sacred Mountain, are sold at the entrance and also at the foot of the pathway. The hill is covered with a dense growth of cedars. Leaving Amecameca, the railway runs almost due south past the stations of Ozumba (70 kilometres), Nepantla (95 kilometres), Yecapixtla (111 kilometres), and reaches Cu autla (138 kilometres). The chief object of interest on the road is the bridge at Ozumba, which is 618 feet long and 41 feet high. Cuautla, the principal city of the State of Morelos, has a population of about 14,000. The name is derived from Quauhtli — i. e., delightful hills — a term given to the town by its founders, the Tlahuicos. It was conquered by the Spaniards in 1521, and was created a city in 1829. The objects of interest are the parochial church, City Hall, and Alameda. 2. From Cuautla to Acapulco, about 200 miles. The railway will be extended from Cuautla to Cuerna vaca, and thence to Acapulco via Chilpancingo. Cuerna vaca is described in Section III. From a point about 25 miles south of this town, the line will run entirely within Guerrero, a State that possesses immense mineral wealth, which is almost totally undeveloped. All tropical fruits, and corn, beans, peas, cotton, and sugar-cane, are grown in this State. There is also a great variety of timber in Guerrero. 304 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. The region lying along the proposed line of railroad does not possess many places of interest to the traveler. Chil pancingo, the capital of the State, is celebrated in history as the town where the first Mexican Congress assembled, on September 13, 1813, after the cry for independence had been raised by Hidalgo. This town has a population of 3,800 inhabitants. (For description of Acapulco, see Sec tion IV, p. 236.) It is said that the Morelos narrow-gauge road will be built to the port of Vera Cruz, via Perote and Jalapa, at some future time. We are of the opinion that this part of the line will not be completed for several years. Tree-Fern. SECTION IX. The Tehuantepec Eailroad. (Compare with chapter on railroads.) During the last fifty years plans for establishing a com munication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans via the Isthmus of Tehuantepec have been discussed. The Mexican Government in 1841 granted a concession to Don Jose de Garay to make a connection between the two oceans, provided that the grantee should make a survey, at his own expense, of the ground and the direction which the route should follow, and also of the ports which might be deemed most convenient from their proximity. A survey was duly made, and reports were published. But the route was not necessarily to be a canal, although Senor Moro, the engineer, based his operations upon this assumption. Soon after the termination of the war with the United States, the franchise of Sefior de Garay became the property of Mr. P. A. Hargous, of New York, who, in connection with a company organized in New Orleans, assumed the rights and responsibilities of the Garay grant. After negotiations with the Mexican Government and unavoidable delays, it was agreed that a railroad would be more practicable than a canal. Accordingly, a survey for a railway across the isthmus was made in 1851, under the direction of the late General J. G. Barnard, of the United States Army, who was detailed for that purpose. The surveys demonstrated that a railway would be feasible at a moderate expense ; that the grades did not exceed 60 feet per mile, except at 306 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. the Chivela Pass, where they were 116 feet per mile for the distance of eight miles ; and that the summit was 720 feet above the sea-level. In 1857 the railroad project was resumed, and a new survey was executed under the direction of Colonel W. H. Sidell, of the United ¦ States Army. Owing to various reasons, this line was never constructed. In 1870 the Tehuantepec Railway Company was formed in New York. Mr. Simon Stevens became its president, with the late Hon. Marshall 0. Eoberts as promoter. New surveys and explorations were made, but the road was not built under this administration. Upon a reorganization of the company after unavoidable delays, and with a change of president, and under a charter from the State of Massa chusetts, a modified concession was obtained from the Mex ican Government on June 2, 1879, to build the Tehuan tepec Eailroad. A subsidy of $7,500 per kilometre was included in the concession. The track was not to exceed 300 kilometres (186 miles) in length. The Tehuantepec Eailroad was not finished by the above- mentioned company. It is said that not more than forty kilometres were constructed by this foreign corporation. In 1882 the Mexican Government made a contract with private individuals for the completion of the Tehuantepec line ; and in January, 1884, the track was finished from the mouth of the Goatzacoalcos * Eiver to Jaltipam, a distance of 25 miles. The route of the projected railway is about 190 miles in length. The work of construction from Minatitlan to the port of Salina Cruz is now be ing pushed vigorously by the Government. It is believed that the road will be finished and opened for traffic in 1885. The line runs due north and south, and it will traverse the southern portions of the States of Vera Cruz and Oa- * Also spelled Coatzacoalcos. THE TEHUANTEPEC RAILROAD. 307 xaca. The adjacent country may be concisely described as follows : The depth of water at low tide is thirteen feet on the bar at the mouth of the Goatzacoalcos Eiver, which is navi gable for a distance of 30 miles. Placer gold-deposits are said to exist in the interior of the isthmus, although the country has not yet been geologically explored. Large beds of asphalt also occur. The vegetable productions of this region are indigo, tobacco, sugar-cane, cocoa, cotton, coffee, Indian corn, vanilla, sarsaparilla, ginger, and India-rubber. The terminus of the road will be at Salina Cruz, three miles west of La Ventosa, on the Pacific coast, which is considered a safe harbor. It is said that work on the south ern section of this railway has begun. Winter is the best season for visiting the isthmus, as the summers are very hot and a great variety of insects abound. Some of them are poisonous, and the tourist should exercise extreme cau tion to avoid being bitten while traveling through the jungle or in camping out. Humboldt, in his Political Essay on New Spain, has referred to the possibility of making the Isthmus of Tehuan tepec an avenue of travel at some future day. He gives the width of the isthmus at 118 miles. The connections of the Tehuantepec Eailroad with the Mexican Southern Eailroad are mentioned in Section VII. Captain J. B. Eads has recently visited England, to procure capital to build the Tehuantepec Ship-Railway. The advantages to commerce of a means of communication across the isthmus (either by land or water) can hardly be overestimated. This route lies between latitude 16° and 18°, and, unlike the malarious climate of Pa nama, the region is comparatively healthy all the year round. While the commerce between Europe and the Pacific Ocean will be carried on via the Isthmus of Panama for many years, the greater part of the trade between the Atlantic and Pacific coasts of the United States must needs be con ducted across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec as soon as the railway is finished. It is hardly necessary to say that the latter route will soon become a 308 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. very formidable competitor to the Panama Railway as regards passenger traffic'. The distance from New York to San Francisco via lehuantepec is 1,477 miles shorter than via Panama, and that from New Orleans to San Francisco is 2,334 miles less by the former than by the latter route. A Scene on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. SECTION X. The Sonora Eailway. From Benson to Guat-mas. Distance, 353 miles ; time, 19 hours ; fare, $21. As already stated, the Sonora Eailway connects with the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe and Southern Pacific Eailroads. (For a full description of these routes, see Appletons' General Guide to the United States.) Elevation of Benson, 3,578 feet; distance from San Francisco, 1,024 miles. Leaving Benson, the line takes a southwesterly direction through the lower part of Arizona to Nogales on the Mexi can frontier, 88 miles distant. The train stops thirty min utes here. The line between the points just mentioned is called the New Mexico and Arizona Railroad, the stations along the route being : Canisteo, 7 miles ; Contention, 15 miles ; Fairbanks, 18 miles ; Brookline, 23 miles ; Hua- chuca, 29 miles ; Elgin, 40 miles ; Sonoita, 49 miles ; Crit tenden, 58 miles ; Sanford 's, 68 miles ; Calabasas, 77 miles ; and Nogales, 88 miles. The road from Nogales to Guaymas is the Sonora Rail way proper. It was completed on November 25, 1882. The stations from Nogales southward are : Encina, 94 miles ; Agua Zarca, 100 miles ; Cibuta, 109 miles ; Casita, 115 miles ; Imuris, 130 miles (fifteen minutes' stop) ; Ptersons, 135 miles ; San Ignacio, 137 miles ; Magdalena, 142 miles, Santa Ana, 153 miles; Llano, 160 miles; Puerto, 183 310 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. miles ; Querobabi, 189 miles ; Posa, 205 miles ; Carbo, 217 miles ; Pesqueira, 239 miles ; Zamora, 247 miles ; Junc tion, 260 miles ; Hermosillo, 263 miles (thirty minutes' stop) ; Willard, 274 miles ; Torres, 289 miles ; Moreno, 307 miles ; Ortiz, 323 miles ; Santa Rosa, 333 miles ; May- torena, 338 miles ; Batamotal, 345 miles ; Long Bridge, 348 miles ; Batuecas, 350 miles ; Guaymas, 353 miles. Fronteras, Sonora. This road extends through a fine cereal and grazing country. Oranges, pears, melons, and other fruits grow at Hermosillo and to the southward. This town has 7,000 inhabitants. It contains a good hotel, the Cosmopolitan. Hermosillo lies in a valley about ten miles long and four miles wide. It is at the base of the Sierra de la Campana, Wm4 "' IIS!1 mmm Km 312 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. a rugged mountain of limestone. Magdalena has a popula tion of 3,000. A wagon-road leads thence to the town of Ures. Another line of railroad will soon be constructed j from Hermosillo via Ures, Arispe, Bachnachi, and Espia to Paso del Norte. The famous Mulatos * mine lies about 120 miles east of Ures. There is a fine Alameda at Arispe. The capital of the State was formerly located here. In 1832 it was removed to Ures, which now has 9,700 inhabitants. Guaymas, the terminus of the Sonora Railway, has a * A million dollars was recently offered and refused for this mine. THE SONORA RAILWAY. 313 population of 6,000. The hotels are the Cosmopolitan and Central. Plans for building a railroad to this town have been discussed for many years. Now that the line is fin ished, Guaymas is destined to grow rapidly. The completion of this road is a very important event, as it establishes the third interoceanic route on this conti nent. When fast trains are placed on the Atchison, Tope ka and Santa Fe line, the journey may be made from New York to Guaymas in five days and a few hours. The fare by rail is $108.40. The new line is expected to facilitate communication with Australia, while it will also give the traders of the Mexican, Central, and South American coasts an opportunity to send their products quickly to the Mis sissippi Valley, the East, and the large cities that lie be tween the Gulf of Mexico and the Great Lakes. The Sonora Eailway also affords Americans a short route to the ports on the Pacific coast of Mexico. The city lies in latitude 28° north and longitude 110° 40' west of Greenwich. It is situated at the foot of a ridge of mountains, and is well protected from winds. Its land locked harbor is one of the best on the Mexican coast. The entrance to the port is encompassed by islands. The bottom is covered with a very soft mud, so that mas ters of vessels intending to remain a long time in the har bor are obliged to raise their anchors occasionally to prevent them from sinking too deeply. The depth of water in the inner harbor is from two to four fathoms, affording safe anchorage for vessels drawing from fifteen to eighteen feet. The depth of the outer har bor is from four to seven fathoms, allowing safe anchorage for vessels of twenty-two to twenty-eight feet draught. The bay abounds in a great variety of fish. Guaymas is built along the shore of the bay, its length being about one mile, and its breadth not exceeding a quar ter of a mile. The houses are of stone, brick, and adobe. 314 CITIES AND ROUTES OF TRAVEL. yymMMi .I. it aXifn ''¦'¦ ¦"¦:¦¦ ' ^9