SOUTH AFRICA
A GLANCE AT CURRENT CONDITIONS
AND POLITICS

SOUTH AFRICA
A GLANCE AT CURRENT CONDITIONS
AND POLITICS

BY

J. H. BALFOUR BROWNE, K.C.

ETC.

AUTHOR OF "THE NEW FISCAL POLICY

LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON
NEW YORK AND BOMBAY
1905
All rights reserved

PREFACE
My professional work has carried me to many places
in England, and even, upon occasion, to Scotland and
Ireland, but never until recently invited me to visit
any of our colonies. In 1904, however, a professional
engagement made it necessary for me to go to South
Africa, and the opportunity that visit would afford me of
studjdng some of the Colonial questions — which are now
really Imperial questions — on the spot, was one of the
reasons which made me take upon me the burden of
the business and tediousness of the voyage. While
in the Colonies I had exceptional opportunities of
seeing a good deal of the life of some of them, and of
making myself acquainted with Colonial opinion.
There are at the present time many urgent political
problems presented to South Africa for practical solution,
and to any one who is interested in the great social and
State questions at home, these have an interest which is
beyond that which attaches to the comparative anatomy
of national organisms. In the human frame " each
part calls the furthest, brother," according to George

vi PEEFACE
Herbert, and so it is with the trunk and limbs of this
great Empire. There is between these a "private
amity." We see that politicians at home are eager to
make capital out of the political attitude of our Colonies,
and perhaps that is the more easily accomplished if the
politicians are ignorant of the real aspect of current
Colonial events, and of the real trend of current Colonial
opinion. The chance of making myself acquainted with
these was eagerly accepted ; and the jottings — for they
are little more — that I made, mostly on the homeward-
bound ship, are printed in the following pages. I
kept my eyes and ears open. I was the recipient of
opinions and views, and after seeing what was to be
seen, and hearing what was to be said, I have attempted
to give my own opinion of all that I learned — if that
is not too pompous a word — in the following miscellaneous
pages.
J. H. B. B.
London,
February, 1905.

SOUTH AFRICA
A GLANCE AT CURRENT CONDITIONS
AND POLITICS I
I THOUGHT to cheat winter as. the swallows do by going
south, and far south, at the time when November puts
a cowl of fog on England. No one can, I think, go six
thousand miles away from home, six thousand nautical
miles — for " we always reckon in nautical miles," as the
captain, every inch "a salt," says — without having
regrets. It may not be so when you are very young,
for with youth novelty is everything, and hope is not
to be gainsaid. But with age it is very different. To
the old, hope has no such magnificent promises to hold
out. The old have deep anchor-roots of habit ; the slow
growth of years and the breaking of these makes old
hearts sore. I had almost hoped that in the balance
sheet against these regrets I miglft be able to place
the incomparable advantage of getting away from Eng
land at its worst and darkest — when the sky wears
masks, when the days are sullen or rancorous; but
it was not to be. I left on a November day which
B

2 SOUTH AFEIOA: A GLANCE AT
was as sane as a spring dehotante. The trees had not
lost all their leaves, and those that remained were more
like flames than leaves, so bright did the yellows and
crimsons look ia the mellow sunlight. But there could
be no thought of turning back. Where imagination had
pointed I was bound to go, and so from the ocean pier,
which had another bluff of people on it, and was a-flutter
with handkerchiefs and noisy with good-byes, we sailed
slowly down Southampton water. And was my old
heart quite unmoved ? Not quite. Then the regrets
surged up. The iuscrutableness of the whole thing now
twanged of fate, and the orange-tawny light of the
west was fading out into darkness, and the darkness
seemed to fill me too. But although November was
not so dark as was its wont, and although the clouds
which usually loll in England at that season were now
high up in air when I turned my face southwards,
there was another atmosphere which was gloomy enough.
It was only a fortnight before our going that the tardy
Baltic Elect had waged unequal war with our Hull
fishing-boats, and now we sailed in the red wake of
that murderous navy. Some of those who had booked
passages by the E.M.S.  did not sail with us.
Ah, their timidity made us think ourselves heroes !
I saw one gentleman strut as if he remembered
Drake and Hawkins. The captain promised that we
should see something of these highwaymen ships — a
promise which blenched the faces of some mothers
who had their babies on board. But, notwithstanding

OUERENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 3
this cloud of smoke on the horizon, our faces were to
the south, and the thought that with every revolution
of the screw, which left flowing white ringlets from the
pushing bow, we were making our way in the long,
white arrow of a ship into the summer of the South;
that was the large and imaginative horizon that was
opening out before us. It was not as if we had, as
some travellers have, followed the swallows every year.
A profession had " hobbled " us in the lean pastures of
England in years past; but now, at last, freedom was
our friend. We were no longer circumscribed in our
hopes or the roamings which are born of these — by these
" anklets," professional engagements — we were, almost for
the first time, summer hunting in the bleak winter. It
takes some magic to bring hope back into old brains,
which have become duUed by routine; but it is a fact
that this long excursion made me feel as if some of my
burden of years had fallen from me, and as if a window
looking south had been opened for me in the blank wall
of staid custom.
As I said, we were on board, and the engines, with
their dull throb, were bending willingly to the work of
bearing us away from England, which had fallen into
night, to the South, which we ^elt was smiling to
welcome us.

SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

II

But there was more in our journey than merely
dogging the summer, although that was much. We
were going to a country which had only a few years
ago been making history with the cruel pen of war.
It is true that for those who have eyes to read the small
print of history, it is being written importantly every
day in the dull domestic annals, but we are all running
in these days, and for those who run you must have the
large letters, the leaded type of great events to attract
their hurried attention. And here we were going to a
country which still bore in its arid soil and pestering
dust the footprints of iron-heeled war. Time had not
relaxed the knotted fingers of the stone and iron block
houses — which, if we may borrow a simile from chess,
was check by means of a castle to the roving mobility
of the Boers. Those graves too, recent graves, are not
yet forgotten ! Ah, they soon are ! Human nature is
always passing acts of oblivion, and under these and
fresh layers of events history soon becomes obsolete.
But here we were going to a country where it was, so
to speak, still " piping hot." We had not forgotten the

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 5
events, the regrettable incidents, the indignations which
bit like acids, the enthusiasms which glowed like wine.
These in loud echoes were stUl in us, and all these
made the history not only close to our memories, but
close to our hearts.
Africa has, too, another interest; it is the grave of
reputations. I know not one great name that has long
survived a term of work, or war, or office in South Africa.
That is one of its sad aspects.

SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

III

But now that we are embarked on this enterprise of
six thousand mUes of sea, what is to be said of it ?
Any one can, and I dare say many have, described
the voyage to the Cape, the passage from the rigour of
an English winter, the avoidance of the slow con
valescence of an English spring, the divulging of the
full lusty health and strength of a southern summer ;
these are easy invitations to facile pens. Indeed, this
is done to some extent in ordinary guide-books, and I
suppose even in the advertisements of lines of steam
boats. It would be absurd to attempt to follow such
footsteps with a jaded pen (if that is not a mixed
metaphor). But there is one thing that has never
happened before, and that is, that there has never been
this "me" in transit to the world's end. No one has
anticipated that. Here I am in the firm ground of
copyright. I wUl not teU you of the cloud on the
horizon, which was France; or of the other blue cloud
which emerged a day later, which the captain clapped
the name of "Spain" upon. Not even of the shoal of
glistening grampuses which rollicked with the waves in
the Bay of Biscay ; or of the days, one " all sunshine

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 7
before and sunshine behind," another pearl-grey for the
most part; but with islands of glistening light, where
the clouds let the sunshine fall in rare spots upon the
sea. It is not because these things have been included
in the guide-books, but because no book can do justice
to them. To succeed we must not attempt too much.
Wordsworth, when he saw London from Westminster
Bridge in the early morning, said its "mighty heart
was lying stiU." But the ocean's mighty heart never
rests. It is always athrob with tides, with waves, with
the memory of storms, and even the waves are alive
with ripples. As we speed through it in the great ship
she turns up two great banks of flowering white
chrysanthemums, one on either side of the ploughing
bow, and these short-lived blossoms pass at once into a
fine malachite of green and white which streams away to
the stern. But the day phenomena of the implacable
sea are not stranger than those of the night. The
distance is, under the cloudy awning of the night, un
redeemed darkness. Not a saving star! But the ship
rides on sparkles of light. The foam gleams with the
sea's glow-worm lights, and in the distance there are to
be seen the peeping lights of another toiler of the deep,
another soul-carrying craft. This morning we were in
sight of one of the Orient line. It was on the longer
path to Australia, and the meeting and parting in the
ocean was not without its significance. Where roads
meet on land there are paths, not only for feet, but for
thoughts ; and when the courses of two ships meet at sea

8 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
there is occasion for airy voyages along the ocean ways.
I think it was Bailey who said that "friendship went
by me like a ship at sea." Friendship, love itself, is
not unlike the short and distant comradeship of two
great vessels in the patch of day upon the ocean. It
is a ship, an Orient liner. It comes from home ; it is
going out to a far-away colony; we can see the white
foam of its prow, the trail of its smoke in the air. That
is aU. Of those on board, what do we know ? And
friendship and love, are they like this ?
But enough of the sea, with its ever-varying monotony,
the dim mirrors of its waves, its swinging cradle for the
ship and all that are in it. It is a sycophant, the sea.
The sky changes and nods and smiles at the sea, and
the sea smiles and nods back again, but always as if a
new thought or caprice or feeling were behind the smile.
This is flirting on a grand scale, and we are all day long
bathed in the dazzling smUe of sea and sky, and at night
we are between the impenetrable frown of these two
monsters. And yet in the morning there is a great
resurrection, and we are again in sunshine, as if the ship
was a courtier always in the sun's suite.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 9

IV
When we left the ocean quay at Southampton, there was
at least one of the waving handkerchiefs which refused
to flutter; it was damp with tears. It was that of a
woman or lady — it is difficult to tell when to apply one
or the other of these words — in a somewhat faded dress.
She was not smart by any means — possibly a little
dowdy; and if there was a fashion about her rustMng
black dress, it was a fashion of days gone by. It is not
easy for a purse, into which the tap of small dividends
runs slowly, to keep pace with the capricious fancies of
light-headed Fashion, and it is the more difficult when
the passage-money for a giddy niece to Cape Town has
to be found in the lean purse. Not that Miss Dowden,
we will call her, cared to keep in the fashion ; she lived
in quite a small house, but in some spacious memories.
Her father had been an officer in the army, and, according
to his daughter, had greatly distinguished himself. He
had been, too, according to the same authority, an exceed
ingly brave man, and although no corroboration of these
statements comes from anywhere, it is quite possible that
they are authentic, for there have been many men brave
and distinguished who have been unknown to repute.

10 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
but whose memories are dear to loving hearts. The
distinguished officer had lived long on his half-pay, and,
dying, had left all that he had, including the care of his
ne'er-do-well son's daughter, to Miss Dowden. How he
came to be the guardian of his grand-daughter is easily
told. His son had entered the army, had married beneath
him, had drunk himself to death, and his widow had dis
appeared in the crowd, leaving the little girl to the care
of Colonel Dowden, and when he died the child was
brought up at the Evergreens, under the pinched care of
her aunt. It was a somewhat curious household. In the
first place, it had everything on a small scale. Necessity
dictated that. It was, too, a very puritan establishment,
for Miss Dowden, good woman, " feared God," and night
and morning offered up intercessions to a God who, in her
frowning creed, might have been as "red in tooth and
claw" as Nature herself. That was strange, for Miss
Dowden was one of those women who would not harm
a fly ; and when a wasp invaded her dweUing, she laid
hold of it with a fold of her handkerchief and shook
it out at the window — a surprising experience for the
wasp, no doubt. But, further, it was quite a quiet,
grave household at the Evergreens. Miss Dowden was
not given to laughter; indeed, her only sin was gossip,
and even that was of the mUd inquisitive, and not of
the rampant, scandalous sort. Her servant, whose name
was Scotland, had served the colonel, was very old, and
had a face wrinkled by time, as a ribstone pippin is by
keeping, and she too was a solemn woman. The chUd

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 11
of the squalid union we have spoken of brought light
and laughter into the dull Evergreens, and the two old
women, who were shaken from sedateness by her play,
learned to love her as old bones love the afternoon.
But nests are only for a season, and there was a
young man who looked upon Alice Dowden and saw
that she was fair, and, as young men wUl, made love
to her, and her face and heart — a light heart — turned
to him. He was a young medical man, with some
good looks and no practice. And, having her consent,
he married the girl, and then went away to " push his
fortune," as the old phrase has it, in South Africa,
leaving his wife still to the care of Miss Dowden. And
now the little girl, grown up, who had grown into
Miss Dowden's heart, was leaving England to join her
husband, and the old lady had come to see her off, and
her handkerchief was so wet that it would not flutter,
and her eyes were red with weeping. I saw the young
wife on board, and looked to see whether her pretty
eyes were as red ; but no, they were sparkling, and her
handkerchief, which was mostly lace — her aunt had
given it to her — it would have fluttered in a very puff
of wind. Ah, it is such a different thing losing a
child — that your heart has adopted — and going to join a
husband — that your fancy has chosen, and that perhaps
habit will make a real husband in time.

12 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

This morning, after a little breeze, which blew the
foaming tops off the sleek waves — which soon blew
the sky clear again and let the sunshine resume — we
came in sight of a great transport, and we passed it
close enough to see the number (No. 6) upon its grey
side. It asked for news, but we had none to give ; but
the thousand men in khaki, who lined the sides of the
ship like living cliffs, gave us some, for they recognized
a Castle liner new from England — England, where they
would be in two or three days almost — and they
gave us a cheer for "England, home, and beauty," I
suppose ; but as we had our faces away from home,
and were, moreover, quite genteel people, our cheer
was not so hearty as theirs, although in courtesy we
tried to respond. It was the heartiness of their
greeting far more than the course of the transport
that told us indubitably that they were homeward
bound. What shall I say of my fellow-passengers, or have
I a right to say anything merely because chance
association on board ship has made them, if I choose,
a prey to my pen? It is the usual motley crowd

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 13
that you see on board of any such liner, and thus in
conspicuous commonplaceness must protect them. A
typical Johannesburger here, an unmistakable Jew
there, and many more of the same type. A girl with
eyes that flirt, a woman that reads novels all day
and veils a real, beautiful world with a vulgar, trashy,
ideal one. A mother with her toy, the baby. " A
captain" who had been captain in a mine; but the
title imposed on us. The lady who was taking out her
cook. The young lady who was going out to be married,
bub who admitted that if she did not like her fianc6 " on
the view" that she would go home and marry another
man. A youngish lady who was not going out to
be married ; but that was not her fault. What is to
be said of these ? KeaUy, if anything interesting were
to be said, I would not hesitate to use my opportunity ;
but they are mostly, so far as I see and know them,
as uninteresting, as stupid, as commonplace as any
equal number of ordinary people anywhere. But, after
all, they are not so commonplace as they seem, and
their seeming is my common superficial view of them.
Here is one lady (again I use the word with hesitation)
who has left two sons in England at school, and a
bit of her heart is there. That may be commonplace,
but it is beautiful. Just now a quite common-looking
man helped with a tenderness which spoke of heart a
quite commonplace, oldish woman out of the writing-
room. What was it ? They had been companions for
thirty years; it might be a companionship which had

14 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
begun with love — a love which had passed into habit ;
but even now her helplessness and discomfort at sea
has sounded the depths, quite out of sight of his aging
heart, and has made him as tender and as courteous
as he was when they were courting; and she — she is
almost glad to suffer to feel his arms about her, and
his solicitude compassing her. And I dare say if I
could see and know all my fellow-passengers who walk
the deck, who lounge in deck-chairs, who play rubber
quoits, and who are punctual with punctual appetites
at meal-times, there might be some beauty in all
of them. I might see sparks of beautiful phospho
rescence in them, dark as they seem, just as I saw
glow-worm sparks in the dark Atlantic waters as they
ran in black waves past the ship in the unstarred
night. There are, too, to my superficial eyes — for I wiU take
the blame — there are, too, a few Americans on board who
are, I believe, " pushing their way " (it is the old phrase,
but I believe it fits their methods) in South Africa.
The fact is, the Americans are enterprising on a magnifi
cent scale. Englishmen are less so than they used to
be. Perhaps it is because the youth of our nation is
past, while America is, so to speak, in its teens. And
perhaps it is that fact that makes these more disagree
able than people ought to be. The hobbledehoyhood
of a man is a trying time. Then he is unboundedly
selfish, ignorantly self-opinionated, stupidly aggressive,
and as self-conceited as a beauty whose looking-glass

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 15
has spoiled her. And it may be so with this enterpris
ing nation. A man and a people require mellowing
before they are tolerable, and America, with all its
greatness, is not mellow yet. Let me say I met
Americans in Johannesburg concerning whom not one
word of the above-written sentences would be true.
Of these Americans I would say that they were not
only mellow but ripe, and only differed from English
men in being more deliberately right in most things
when the Englishman would have been impetuously
wrong. Most sweeping generalizations are faulty.

16 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

VI
Madeira. Some one explained — it was a little display of
knowledge recently gleaned from an Encyclopaedia — that
Madeira had been so named from a Portuguese word
meaning "timber," and that the island had got its
name because of its woods. Then the wit of the party,
who had only associated the word with the wine, said
he had often heard of wine from the wood, and the
poor joke was better received than it deserved. But,
you see, the weather was fine, and we were all in good
humour, and if that cannot insure a good reception for
a foundling joke, nothing can. But Madeira. One of my
fellow-passengers, a traveller by repute, told me in the
Bay of Biscay that you could smell the flowers of
Madeira three miles out at sea. Perhaps he had an
exceptionally good nose, like my retriever ; but no, after
his assurance, I began to smell the bouquet island even
in the Bay of Biscay, and the assurance made me look
forward to the island as a garden in the sea.
All the day before our arrival we had sailed through
summer. Although, hitherto, the weather had been fine,
there had been a nip in the air, but to-day we were
greeted with an open hand. The sea was blue, the sky

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 17
was clear, the waves were playing at gentle cataracts.
The evening fell black, but its blackness was tempered
by innumerable stars. Ah, this day was itself a holiday !
And yet it did not stand alone. Every present is
like the island of Madeira itself — the peak of a world
beneath the sea, and on this peak the sun has lighted
its beacon fire. As the night fell we passed the home
ward bound Saxon, a floating palace with a hundred
lights. But the double night fell, and sleep came not
without its stars — dreams, until quite early the coming
light wakened us, and on looking out, there before us
stood the rocky garden in the sea.
We came upon the little archipelago in the morning
before the sun had done more than gild two stray clouds
over Porto Sancto. That island we had passed in the
dim, blue light before the dawn, and I had from my
window seen its solemn presence relieved by some
sprinkled lights upon its sombre sides ; but now, here
we were opposite Funchal, and before long the sunlight
fell upon one of the high, sharp peaks of the island. The
deep-scored valleys, which run down its sides like the
rock furrows of some gigantic iron plough, were now like
huge cauldrons brewing purple shadows, and from some
of the hUl-tops streamers of mist were floating. As the
light broadened, the toy town, made of toy houses,
came into full, into blazing, view. The houses were
exactly like those we had played with in our youth —
how many years ago ? Years before children's toys were
made in Germany. Funchal looks, too, like a town of
c

18 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
allotment gardens when seen from the bay. Higher
up the hills, where the white houses ceased, there were
some green forests on one or other of the sharp rock
ridges, and, still higher, peaks, sometimes coloured by
cadmium, sometimes by deep Indian red, but always bleak
and barren, except here and there where there was a
creeping bloom of green herbage. The whole face of the
island, at least on its lower slopes, up to eighteen hundred
or two thousand feet, is covered with white dots of houses
coagulated in the lower town by the sea, sporadic up on
the precipitous green slopes above. Here, then, we are
on the very summits of a small chain of alps, which
have their verdant slopes, their lancet aiguilles, and
their wide, oozy bases at the Atlantic's roots. I should
have desired to explore some of the deep cliff valleys
which run inland, some of them with perfect spires of
rock jutting from their sides or at the top of high passes,
for all these valleys seemed to be cleft to the very heart
of the island ; but time would not permit of voyages of
discovery, and I had to content myself with a glimpse
of some of the picturesque streets of the town. True
they were narrow. True they were paved with cobble
stones, which molested tender feet. True there were
skidding-sledges drawn by patient-looking oxen in them.
The houses were mostly poorly built, it may be of bricks
whitewashed and not of stone. But how different all this
is from our own magnificent, monotonous, squalid, vulgar
Victoria Street ! How different from the poor grandeur
of the shanties and the sky-scraping corner houses of

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 19
Commissioner Street or Pritchard Street in Johannesburg !
In these we have width enough even for the ocean
current of traffic with its spray of dust. The houses are
mostly of stone. The vehicles are motors ; the streets
are as straight as a ruler, while the streets in Funchal
have untoward turns and twisting corners ; but here
every step you take gives you a new picture. Now some
whitewashed wall, doubly whitewashed with a coat of
morning sunshine, over which you see a trellis and the
fading leaves of a vine upon it. Here nothing but white
wash, yellow pantiles, and green outside shutters ; but
the roof has sagged, and the picture is perfect. Every
where the walls seemed to be tying gardens together,
and these were always escaping, with exquisite beauty,
over the walls. And such gardens ! I do not know — no
memory is capacious enough to remember — the names
of all the flowers I saw. The hillsides were steep, and
in most places they have been terraced with walls to
keep the soil for the gardens from running down the
hill; but everywhere nature has adopted the wall and
trailed beautiful tendrils and broad leaves and green
things and flowering things over it, and you would
never guess now that the wall was only a step-child.
It is woven into, and harmonizes with, nature's beau
tiful web. On the terraces you can see trees, with
broad green leaves, and, underneath, clusters of bananas ;
here and there great lazy gourds and marrows ; then a
tree covered with oranges; here, again, others covered
with porcupine-like clusters of the forbidding chestnut.

20 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
and I know not what else. They all come so quickly,
and each new impression from the lavish hand of nature
is so imperious that it gives memory too much to do, and
it drops impressions as a child's lap drops the flowers of
which it is too full. But amidst all these I saw in one
garden on the Mil an old friend — the plebeian cabbage
of our northern clime. I was quite pleased to see its
sonsie face, although I was holding my head quite high,
I can tell you, for I had just breakfasted on a delicious
omelet, some sweet bread, hot coffee, some grenadUlas,
figs, and custard apples. I saw, too — that I must not
forget — some roses. But palms, red-hot pokers, and a
dozen other plants which we pamper in the glass cases
of our greenhouses at home, here grew everywhere, clung
to the rocks, waved to us from the gardens. Oh, it is
a prodigal garden land !
But while the flowers were beautiful, the people
were villainous. It is always the lazy and the idle
that ply the mean industry of begging. There is not a
step in these picturesque streets without an importunate
man, woman, or child who is cringing for alms. The
children throw fiowers at you and say they "present"
them. They follow you for hundreds of yards to point
out a way you do not want to go. They desire to know
if you want the market, the post-office, or the railway
station, and their arts of alms-asking are innumerable.
Many of them smUe at you. Some have a pained look
upon their dusky faces. One man holds out a deformed
hand to induce your purse to bleed for him. An unhung

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 21
race of vUlains dive for sixpences aU round the ship.
The Portuguese are a poor race, and that is in no way
more significantly shown than by the itching palm —
itching for money which is given and not earned. But
at the same time they have made a town here which
is artistically excellent, while we, with all our wealth
and industry, have succeeded in making our towns
hideous. And while in Madeira walls speak to you of
art, in our towns they only boast of money.
I believe these water-beggars at Madeira earn more
by plunging into the blue waters of the bay on two
mornings a week than they could by a whole week's
honest work — but not with impunity, for the honest
work would mean education and discipline. This watery
work merely means a less dishonest kind of theft.
They might, in time, by honest work, achieve the great
end of all labour, which is character ; but as it is, they
achieve the great end of all crime, of all laziness, of all
begging — they lose their small souls.
I learned something more, and pleasantly enough, of
Funchal from a young man and woman who sat at
my table in the saloon. They had started from the
steamer early, and had gone from the pier to the railway
station in an ox-drawn hansom on wooden runners.
«
They had gone up the hill in the railway between the
hanging gardens and the white houses, had breakfasted
in a garden which overlooked the bay, had seen the
tawdry cathedral, and had come down some of the stone
shoots, which serve for streets, in a toboggan which

22 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
was guided by two men with ropes, and it had all
been very delightful. Even the bumps had only jolted
laughter out of them. Ah, yes! I thought, it is very
delightful when you are young; and when I saw the
light in their eyes as they lay in deck-chairs in the
afternoon and enjoyed their chocolates, I thought I
knew what made the morning in Funchal so sweet
to them, and I remembered old mornings myself But
there 

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 23

VII
The ocean monotonous ! How absurd ! That is the idea
you embark with, but when you have seen nothing but
sea and sky for a succession of blinding days, you
change your views. Indeed, anything but incessant
meaningless change becomes monotonous to the empty
mind. It is deep crying to deep. You have to have
a thoroughly well-furnished intellect to suffer sameness
for any length of time. That that is so, is shown by
the fact of the bubbling excitement on board "a liner"
over the smallest of small events. Another liner
approaching, passing in the night some seven miles
away, showing a blue light and sending up four wander
ing lights from a Roman candle, while the ship in
which you are does the same — such are the courtesies
of the sea — causes the whole attention of the ship to
stand on tip-toe for an hour — an empty hour. There
is not a Zeiss glass that is not probing these seven miles
of gloom for the blue fire, and all this because the
pulse of interest is beating slow — " speaking " a ship
is worth a heart-throb.
But it is shown, too, by the friendships which are
formed at these close quarters. At first we all took an

24 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
insular standoffishness on board with us. We were not
going to know every one. Many of the people " on the
view " looked very undesirable acquaintances. Of course
we would be polite when spoken to ; that was due to
ourselves, not to them. But no more. Men on land
are like the particles of a gas, and seem to repel one
another; but ten days at sea alters aU that. A mere
" good morning " broke the ice, and now mere table
companions become real friends. After dinner the men
smoke and drink and play bridge, and that shows how
human they are; and even the women draw together,
and walk up and down the deck together arm-in-arm.
To-night I have seen a good-looking young woman, who
has been back in England with her baby to see her father,
and who is returning all these miles to the south and
her husband, walk a whole hour with rather a fat man,
who felt the walk a good deal, for we were near the
tropics, and he was stout ; bub he seemed to feel more
than the heat, for, you see, she was good-looking. And
all this change has been brought about by the dull magic
of monotony, and the dead weight of the hours when one
is at sea and has nothing to do. But any event, as I
say, commands this pleasure crew. Last night we were
approaching Teneriffe, and the morning was sure to have
a serious dint made in it for a time. Some of the people,
as full of information as an egg is full of meat, had
already told us the precise height of the peak, had told
us that we should see snow upon its high summit, which
pierces from a summer sea into an arctic cold. Others

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 25
had told us — ^no doubt upon the same easily accessible
authority of the guide-book — that sulphurous fumes stUl
exude from the rifts in the volcanic sides of that other
wise quite tame volcano. But we passed Teneriffe about
seven, and very few of the quidnuncs of the passage
were up. So I had an interview with the stately island
and its high white crest all to myseK. It was very
different when a bell rang about eleven o'clock in the
forenoon, and it was announced that a meeting of the
Deck Sports Committee was about to be held in the
smoking-room ; then interest had a resurrection from
the grave of apathy and dulness.

26 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

VIII
OUK experiences of winds have been exceptionally tame.
In the Bay of Biscay we were prepared to meet some
mad winds and mad waters. We expected that these
might bar our path, delay our progress, and cause even
worse evils than these. But no, the sea was placable
and the sky as gentle as a sucking dove. Nowhere have
we met the wind in its worst mood of storms. Every
where we have met winds, but these have been winds
piping that the waves might dance. Open-handed words
of welcome, not the closed fist of the north, which staggers
with its blows poor trembling ships. When you are
weeks at sea you are thrown a good deal into the company
of the winds, and they are the great winds, the giants
who are heaping Pelion on Ossa, not the little winds
which we know on land, and really deserve the name of
draughts as they sweep down a valley or are broken into
puffs by the shoulder of some shrugging hill. At sea
you have nothing to look at but the clouds, and the
winds are the scene-shifters of that great stage. One
night they had drawn a solid, solemn curtain in front
of the ship ; we were not only sailing into the night,
but into a tunnel in the inky mirk in front of us. Again,

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 27
they had bmlt gorgeous high skies, with only a few float
ing islands in them, for the sun to gaze upon, and, with
his gazing, to turn to molten gold.
The winds which have draped our days and nights
have been mostly south-west winds. The south-west wind
is our old familiar friend of England that prunes the
trees until they slope upwards from the wall at home —
the wind, too, which at home fills all the trees with
twinkling lights, and here on the Atlantic is as lavish
with its silver lights to the waves and ripples which give
you sky-glances everywhere. All the winds hitherto have
been fresh, some lusty, as their dealings with the blue
waves showed ; but, oh I they are so different from the
winds on land, some of which are evU-smelling winds.
They have been scavenging a foul town. Some are thick
with dust ; they have been sweeping a friable continent.
Some are draggled with rain ; some as hot as fever
breath ; but here every wind has a breathing of life.
And what friends my lungs have been making of these
Atlantic breezes ! For such winds are the best of doctors.
Let them into a slum, and fever is stricken ; into a room,
and faintness passes ; into the rooms of our life, and
old age is insured.
But I am in no foreign country with these winds;
they speak the home language to my ears, for all the
winds at home come from the sea, and here we seem
only to be following them to their lair. But, then, our
home winds are not like these, which seem to make the
world a health resort. There are winds at home which

28 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
make you shiver and prophesy rheumatism ; winds in
the autumn which seem a patchwork of leaves ; a despotic
wind which comes from the tyrannous east, and nips and
bites and blasts. You see nature curl up before it.
When it brings vapours, it is in the form of mist, not
a high-winged cloud. It makes the sunshine when it
smiles show more of its teeth than is good for a smile.
I have known winds in South Africa worse in their
character than any wind which blows at home ; winds
as bitter as our east wind ; winds as full of foul dust as
a pin-cushion is of pins. The atmosphere of De Aar
when I passed it once was not air but dust — gritty, nasty
dust, which is as sure to give pneumonia as the rock-drill
dust of the mines. I have known the hot breath of the
scrubby veldt, with its sour karoo bushes, and I have
longed for the worst wind that the north or east ever
sent to England. But these winds which I have been
eulogizing in a small, imperfect way are the North
Atlantic winds, which blow where they list, that never
with their busy fingers leave the sky alone, but are
always " window-dressing " the vault of heaven ; winds
which are always hunting, tending, and shepherding the
sheep flocks, the clouds. And, anon, we are coming to
the trade winds of the equator, which tramp about the
earth in viewless procession — the journeyman winds of
the world. The south-east trade winds blew in our teeth
for days as we were going out, heaping up waves which
made the ship almost stagger, blowing lustily at night, but
with a calmer breath in the morning. These somewhat

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 29
retarded our run, but stiU we crept steadUy on to the
south with indomitable engines, breasting the cauldrons
of waves and the winds which blew round the world.
It was in these stretches of ocean and sky that I began
to blame my memory. Every day, every hour, from the
common comely dawn to the high-set midday, when our
shadows hid under our feet ; to the resplendent evening,
when the sun returned to the sea, there were pictures
which, if my memory could only have retained, I would
have had a Royal Academy exhibition in my head for
life. Now it was a Colin Hunter, with swords of light
cast on the sea ; now a Henry Moore, with blue seas
crisping to foam; now a Napier Hemy, with streaky
green billows ; and, anon, a Somerscales, with blue seas
as broad as the eye could hold. But my memory, I
knew, would only retain the impotent feeling that all
these beautiful things had been in the eye, but as for
recalling them, except in a vague, fumbling way, ah,
here memory was paralytic. I have come across all
these seas and skies again on my way to the north,
and attempted by looking and longing to make memory
indelible, but in vain.

30 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

IX

It is important to try to appreciate the view of the white
man as to South African affairs. I mean, not the white
man of the platform at home, but of the mine, the
plantation, and the veldt in South Africa. To learn the
burden of the white man's song, I have conversed with
many, and I found a curious consensus of opinion. There
is something misleading to English ears in the sound of
the word, " colony." We are apt to think that a colony is
inhabited by a large group of our own countrymen, under
different conditions of climate no doubt, but socially and
otherwise very much like our own countrymen at home.
But really our South African colonists are more like
armies on the march. Our colonists are in contact with
partial civilization on the one hand, and with ancient
savagery on the other. We have stUl to keep our heads
by means of our hands. Lord Roberts, after his march
to Pretoria, announced that the war was over, and returned
home too soon. Lord Kitchener had two years' scramb
ling warfare after that, and tired of it, and made the peace
of Vereeniging too soon. And then we thought that peace
was established. Rightly looked at, the war is not over.
We are stUl prospecting amongst a black race whose hands

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 31
are against us, and gentlemen who sit at home at ease and
remember Wilberforce, and that a black man, whenever
he puts his foot on the soil of England, or even upon the
white deck of a British ship, is free — these gentlemen are
not taking very practical views of the situation. Indeed,
it would be perhaps wiser to look upon the conditions of
South Africa, not as a state of happy and equal peace
between fellow-citizens of a great empire, but as a state
of war before the actual red eruption of battle takes
place. And in war you must carry justice with a high
hand and a firm hand, and one of the complaints which is
made of the home government is that in its fear of a party
cry at election times — the disease of which good govern
ments die — it fails to recognize the facts to the jeopardy
of our power, our preponderance, and our prestige in
South Africa.
At the time of the "late" war some political Tory
capital was made out of the monstrous injustice which
was done by the Boer to the black man. Sentiment is a
good string to play a jingo tune upon. It was said that
some of their treks were made in consequence of the
desire that the Dutch had to be free to whip their niggers.
It is easy to set gentle blood trotting violently when such
statements are made, and the trot no doubt helps to win
an election, at any rate it went to the poll. But many in
South Africa to-day hold strongly to the opinion that
Oom Paul and his folk knew what was due to the nigger,
and that we are risking much in allowing the black man
to think that he is equal to the white. No white man

32 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
who knows these colonies thinks a nigger on a human
level with himself. I have been surprised to find in
many apparently well-disposed a hatred of the black man.
They have what the Scotch call a "scunner" of the
negro race. There are in many I have met deep fibres
of race hatred between these men of two colours. But
even when this feeling is not present in the flesh,
amongst those who are kindly disposed to the careless,
laughing black race, there is an inclination to treat him
well, but just as well as you would treat a horse or a
favourite dog ; but to let the horse drive you or the dog
to put a collar on you, Christianity — at any rate in South
Africa — does not demand that. Now, of course, it is easy
to exaggerate this aspect of the Black question. I had a
conversation on board the boat, when I was on my way to
South Africa, with a hard-headed, hard-mannered, rough-
tongued old man, who told me he did not question the
ways of Providence, but that as God had been six
thousand years (he favoured some primitive views as to
the process of world-making) in making the black man
what he was, and hadn't in that time made him equal to
the white man (here he showed a little conscious pride),
it was evident that He was in no hurry to bring about
equality, and he wondered why the British Parliament
should make haste where Providence went slow. He
wanted the black man to garden for him, to work for him,
but not to be equal with him — not quite. There was an
impertinent arrogance about this man that put one's
temper in arms, but he was not without intelligence, and

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 33
he expressed the views of his neighbours with a freedom
and contempt for the Kaffir which would have shocked
some of us at home. But he had the fault of garrulity,
and continued, " He did not object to missionaries teach
ing the blessed word of God " (here he became unctuous),
" but what had they to do to come out and teach the
black man that he was equal to the white, setting him
above his station."
I remember a time when a poet (not of the people)
was prepared that everything, " art and commerce "
included, should perish, if only England's old nobility
was preserved. This rough-hewn colonist took a some
what similar view of the white man. He was inclined
to teach the Christian religion so far as it inculcated
humility in the blacks, but when it went on to making
all men, whatever their colour, equal in the sight of
God, well, then he would have stamped out mission
aries. But it is useful for those who have to deal with
the Colonial question to remember that these views axe
deep-rooted in the heads of white men in the south.
It will not do to ignore these sentiments — or let us call
them prejudices. It is with such stuff that wise states
manship has to deal. As to this "stamping out," it is
circumstances that make rough heels, and to those who
know that we are holding our colonltes by the slender
sceptre of prestige, it does seem a perilous experiment
to let our enemies have equal treatment with our
friends. There ought, they think, to be a most favoured
nation clause between citizens. But, according to some,
D

34 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
our magistrates are there to take the side of the blacks
against the white man, and to many the ultimate results
of such pampering cannot be anything but disastrous.
You hear many say, "How are we to hold the
colony under these circumstances ? Up in Rhodesia we
are a handful of white men amongst thousands of
blacks. Our women and children are at the mercy
of these men, who are savages after all, and if we are
not to take the law into our own hands, and the
Government do nothing to make the callous blacks feel
its rigour, then we must ' clear out.' And what be
comes of our pioneering colony then ? " An intelligent
man told me that this ugly aspect of the case was
pressed home upon them in Bulawayo. There had
been some crimes against women. The Government,
treating all men as equal, I suppose, took the view
that these were cases for the ordinary law. We have,
as a race, a tremendous respect for the law, but the
law in a mutiny on the high seas — the law, in face of
rampant rebellion on land, when revolution puts its
red hand upon all our institutions, is about as useful
a remedy for these crying evUs as a puff of human
breath would be to put out the fire of London. It
was the Americans in the colony who took the matter,
which the limp fingers of administration were fum
bling with, in stern hands, and they formed, with others,
a vigilance committee, to put down rape, and they
caught one of the " boys " who was guilty, and had
strung him up to a tree, and would have hanged him,

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 35
but the officers of the law rescued him, and he
ultimately got "ten years." Still, the action of the
vigilance committee opened the sleeping eyes of Power,
and a law was passed which made such crimes against
women and children capital offences. That fact shows
that a colony in South Africa is not just an English
county separated from us by a few miles of sea. It
shows that there are some knotted problems to be dealt
with, and one of them is as old as the poor law, the
43rd of Elizabeth. That Statute was passed at a time
when there was a plague of "lusty beggars" in the
land, and it was intended to raise money from inhabi
tants in the parish to set the poor " to work." But in
South Africa the nigger is incorrigibly lazy, and we
want to discover some means by which he can be
made to work. Nowhere is Carlyle's gospel of " work "
more essential as practical poUcy than in South Africa.
But here, too, if we may believe the white man's tale,
the Government is too good for South Africa. There
must be no forcing of the black man to work. It is a
free country. If he wants to work he can come to
you, and you can employ him; but you must not go
out into the highways and byways and force him to
come in, even by persuasion, much .less by taxation.
Here we have an excellent specimen of political cant.
There are equal laws in England and Rhodesia, but in
the one we kill for rape, and in the other we do not,
because necessity is above the law. But we must not
coerce the black man to work, although work would be

36 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
good for him, while the white man in England is forced
to work by the most imperative of slave-drivers —
hunger. But a want of logic can reconcile any incom
patible propositions.
Now, the results are, these " boys " do come to work
in the mines and in the towns, and get three pounds
a month and three meals a week, with meat rations.
They are better housed in the compound than they ever
were in their kraal. They may "sign on" for three
or six months, but at the end of that time they, for
the most part, return to their kraals. The man is now
rich. He can buy a wife for £7 or £8, and a man
who has been six months in the mines can purchase a
sufficient number of wives to do all the work for him,
while he will lie all day under a favourite tree.
Doing nothing is what he is best at. And having in
his short service earned enough to keep him, with
his vidves' labour, for some years, he has a good
time of it. Indeed, a day will come when he can sell
his daughters to be the wives of other men, and drive
a lucrative trade in the marriage market, where women
are exchanged for cattle. Now, work, with a view
merely to idleness, is a poor discipline; while work,
good hard work, with some sparks of ambition to be
"a kindly hght," is one of the very best educations a
man or a nigger (for in deference to South African
opinion we must distinguish) can have. Here, too, let me
note some of the cant in the arguments of those who
want the black man to work for them. Here the

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 37
practical people take the weapons of sentiment and
protest against the slavery to which the wives of the
kraal nigger is subjected, the brutality of the sale of
daughters, and the purchase of wives. But we throw
away indignation upon these barbarous institutions. I
believe the women are not slaves except in name, and
we have all known women sold in marriage in our own
country, so that that ought not to shock us.
Now this, so far as I have been able to gather,
seems to be the white man's standpoint with reference
to one of the great problems which have to be dealt
with in the colony. One can understand that the pro
blem may have quite another aspect in the eyes of the
blacks, or in the eyes of Government officials, who have
the fear of a popular or popularizing Government at
home before their eyes. But, no doubt, there is some
truth in the views these colonists so strongly hold.
One of these in conversation illustrated his view by a
story. There was an Englishman who invested his all
in spans of oxen and in waggons and in stores, and he
went his way accompanied by some ten or a dozen
paid blacks, " right away " to the north to trade. His
" all " might have been the result of long years of in
dustry, for he had put some £2000 in the venture.
The Englishman was a puny man, but with quite a
towering spirit. Amongst the " boys " he had taken
with him was a huge black — a contrast to him — a Zulu
who had been cast in nature's largest mould. When
they had left the sparse fringe of civilization, the

38 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
Englishman found that there was plotting going on
amongst his followers. He was then alone in a desert
with a dozen blacks, and he knew their language well
enough to know that the Zulu was persuading the others
in Scriptural language, " Come, let us kill him, and
the inheritance will be ours." By eavesdropping, which,
of course, is not thought of in civilized countries, but
seems justified under the circumstances, he discovered
that the proposal seemed good in their eyes. They were
to kill him, divide the oxen and the carts and the stores
of merchandise, to separate each man to his own kraal,
and when the Englishman and his venture were quite
forgotten, they could trade with these spoils. No wonder
the Zulu's suggestions were well received by the blacks,
but it was sorry overhearing for the enterprising
Englishman. StUl, he had in his little body a big
spirit and a spark of true courage, and he got up from
where he lay and went into the circle of conspirators
and stood in front of the mountainous Zulu, and told
him to get up. At first he refused, but the English
man had a sjambok in his tight little fist, and struck
at his enemy; and then the little man gave the word
of command to the other conspirators to take the Zulu
ringleader and tie him up to the waggon, and — so strange
a thing is wUl — he was reluctantly obeyed, and then
the puny Englishman used his sjambok untU the man
was haK dead in his huge bulk, and the trader was as
near death in his little carcass.
Of course, any one with rudimentary ideas of justice

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 39
wUl see how unjustifiable such conduct upon his part
was — to take the law and a sjambok in his own hand.
I can imagine a district magistrate being very much
incensed. But he did it, and the insurrection never
got a head, and the Englishman carried out his useful
venture, and in time the Zulu was none the worse.
The gentleman who vouched for the truth of this story
(I should like to think, merely from his size, that he
was the intrepid trader) used it to illustrate the con
dition of South Africa as a whole, and to point his moral,
that in hostUe surroundings it is necessary to govern
the blacks with a strong hand, a strong command, and
no mealy-mouthed talk of equality and brotherly love
one to another. He said he would be as kind to a
nigger as he would to a horse, and I believe him.

40 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

X

Since yesterday morning we have been in the tropics,
and the passengers have gone into flannels or " ducks,'.'
indistinguishable from the men who wait at table.
The sun shone on us all yesterday, and during the
night the furnace breath of Africa scorched the ship.
One gentleman, who thinks he is a scientist because he
has a thermometer, tells me that the temperature in his
cabin was 84 degrees in the night. I am not scientific,
but I know that during the night a sheet seemed a
tyrannous oppression. The mighty deep has been con
juring and showing us some of its wonders. Yesterday
a whale " blew " about half a mile from the ship. That,
in the absence of newspapers, is an event at sea. In
one homeward-botmd ship they did publish a paper,
which they called the Groaner. And as they faUed to
reach the island of Ascension for many hours after the
predicted time, some one put an advertisement in the
Groaner, "Lost, the island of Ascension. Whoever will
give information which will lead to its recovery wiU be
handsomely rewarded" — an advertisement which gave
some umbrage to the captain. But we had no news
paper on board, and had to interest ourselves in the

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 41
flying-fish which were seen hurrying away from the
ship on their glistening fins. These, too, when there is
no scandal, have been talked about. This morning we
passed Cape Verde ; a small conical hUl hovered on the
horizon to the east; some rocky protuberances a little
further to the south ; and then we came on the highway
of history, for some of the vessels of the vodka-sailed
Baltic Fleet were plainly visible. Had this ship been
a fishing-boat, no doubt we would have been in danger.
To-day is a breathless day with a grey sky, and the
dim mirrors of waves are quite small, and nothing but
what the Scotch call "keeking glasses," and we are to
have this weather and downward stroke of light and
heat all the way to the Cape, although some knowing
ones have promised us some breath for expecting lungs
when we get a little further south into the south-east
trade-winds. A gentleman played on the notes of my
fear and credulity by pointing out amongst the little
waves a shark's dorsal fin, and I, although uncertain,
was fain to believe him. I want, as others do, to see
all the wonders of the deep.
But what can we say of the tropics, that warm belt
round a paunchy world? I hear my readers complain.
" Your book," they say, " tells us nothing. It does not
give us the names of the passengers on board. It does
not tell us how many people live in Teneriffe, or how
many tons of goods are exported from Cape Colony.
You do not even mention the very clever amateur con
juring of the doctor, or the dances, or the daily runs of

42 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
the vessel, or anything, and palm off on us a shark's
fin or a fiying-fish. It is true that you did tell us that
the engine-room man had his skull fractured by the
falling of a great piece of coal on it. That was interest
ing of course, but in the tropics you have nothing to
say but to complain of the heat, and you call that
originality." Now, all this is quite true. But I remember that
Walt Whitman says, "Dismiss all that insults your
soul," and cricket on deck, played by fiannelled  (but
1 will not follow Mr. Kipling into the jungle of abuse)
— played in the tropics, although it may not insult my
soul, seems to me an impertinence like a shrewd whistle
in church, and it is on that ground that I have purged
my paper of much that might alleviate the tedium of
empty days. But the tropics somehow disappoint one.
The days are all fine, and generally rise and sink in
glory, with not a spit of rain, not a " sough " of tempest.
But this magnificence seems a little hackneyed, and I
long for the changing days of more temperate skies.
Here, however, the stars are punctual. But what hurts
me most is the unchanging days. To-morrow will be
like to-day. " All hope abandon ye who enter here,"
for hope lives not on unvarying favours, but upon its
tearful disappointments. No open-eyed surprises. At
home every to-morrow is unique — impossible, decisive ;
here aU the days are fine. It is that that wears one
down.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 43

XI

If I remember aright, Carlyle, at the time of the
war between the southern slave-holding states and the
northern states of the Union, pictured the whole dis
pute as a quarrel between two men, one of whom
insisted that the other should not hire his servant for
life, while the other claimed a freedom to do as he
"darned pleased." No doubt he put the fable in
rugged, picturesque phrase, which I would quote if I
could remember. This question as to the length of
service in America led, as quite small disputes often
do, to a bloody war. But the question is still with us.
Servants are, in our days, hired for quite short terms,
and have got their month for ever in their mouths.
But such short terms of service are incompatible with
certain enterprises. I believe Mr. Balfour pointed out
in the House of Commons that a sailor who went a
voyage to the East Indies was hired for the " all-round "
voyage, which might last for three years, and that such
sailor was not allowed to break his contract whenever
he chose and leave his employer to his civil remedy.
Indeed, it is no use for a sailor to ask to be set down
halfway to Valparaiso and tell the skipper that he

44 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
can seek a remedy in the county court. The skipper's
remedy is irons. But the same thing is true of a good
many other kinds of labour besides that of the sailor,
and that fact has been quietly recognized for years
by employers and by governments. The great question
everywhere in South Africa is the labour question.
We know that in Natal, a beautiful colony with skies
which invite to the culture of sugar-cane, there has for
years been coolie^labour in the plantations, and that with
out it the sweet-tooths of the world would have to look
elsewhere than our colony for their delight. But this
coolie or indentured labour, which was essential to the
industry which has helped to make Natal prosperous,
was employed upon terms very simUar to those upon
which it was proposed quite recently to employ China
men in the mines on the Rand. True, the colony was
small, and the coolies did not live in a compoimd, or
what in more northern latitudes would be called a big
"bothey." They were, however, bound for three years,
were punishable if they attempted to escape, and in
other ways were under byelaws as harassing as those
which make the life of a citizen of Glasgow or Man
chester a burden to him. There are thousands of these
servants who have been hired for three years in Natal,
and no one thought it worth his while to cry " slavery "
in these days. Nor was the allegation of " slavery "
urged against the British Guiana Consolidation Ordi
nance of 1891, or against the Trinidad Ordinance of
1901, although these were almost identical with the

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 45
Transvaal Ordinance. But great allowances are to be
made for politicians who have no policy and who still
desire office. The system, when looked at through
non-political spectacles, seems to have been wisely
devised, and to have worked well. There is only one
drawback to this plan, and that is, that after the term
of indentured employment the Indian coolie, being a
British subject, is entitled, if he pleases, to remain in
the colony; and his election in many cases to remain
has given rise to another angry problem in South Africa,
that concerning Asiatic invasion, of which we will have
to speak hereafter.
But when, after efforts to get labour in various
quarters of the world, the Colonial Office turned its
eyes to China and proposed to get indentured labour
from that overcrowded land to help to work the mines,
which have in their massive entrails the immediate
future prosperity of South Africa, the sharpened eyes
of party politicians saw a joint in the Government's
harness, and the result was barren debate and foolish
malediction, which made the last Session as arid and
unprofitable as the great Karoo. The arguments were
threadbare with the wear of time. It is easy to say
that Lord Milner is run by the Johannesburg crowd.
It is easy to say that the Colonial Office is in Park
Lane. I have no sympathy with the over rich, I am
on the side of the poor. But in the Transvaal we
have a poor colony, one that was harried by war, one
upon which we laid a burden of debt at the war's end

46 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
of some £35,000,000. That burden is enough to stagger
any colony just getting on its feet. Not that I think
that the colony should have been allowed to go with
out some part of the load which Britain had to bear
for the sake of the integrity of the empire. But every
one acquiesced at the time the burden was put upon
the colony; now the question comes. How has the
interest to be paid? We have all along held that a
just and stable government of the Transvaal would be
of inestimable benefit to the country. It was because
the dice of government were loaded against our own
countrymen there, because they were oppressed, and their
voices were hushed for want of votes, that we made
the war which resulted in annexation. These, then,
were the facts. The war, just or unjust, has been
made ; the country, with all its future, bad or good,
has been annexed. Its prosperity practically depended
at that time, depends to-day, whatever it may do in the
future, on one industry — gold-mining. If that prospered,
the country which depended on it would prosper too.
But that industry must perish if there were no hands
to work the mines. The colony must dwindle into
bankruptcy and decay unless the gold which lies there
in the earth, sleeping, could be wakened into life ; and
without labour that was impossible. Before the war
there were 97,800 natives working in the mines, and
at the same time these gave employment to 12,413
white men. The wages paid to the blacks amounted to
£334,000 per annum, and to the whites £332,620. To

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 47
bring back the old prosperity, the mines required hands.
How was the labour to be obtained? Some stalwart
statesmen, and amongst them one of the most important
and able of the Boer leaders in South Africa — the man
who is behind the undermined Dutch throne — would
have made the blacks work whether they desired to do
so or not. They would, to use one of their own phrases,
have used a "little gentle compulsion," but not an
English politician who had to face an English audience
and a prowling opposition which has almost forgotten
what office feels like, not one of them woiUd have dared
to suggest such a course. No, there must be no com
pulsion, no corvee. Nothing but the persuasion of wages.
Now, at first sight, the people at home were awakened
into indignation by the idea that a government which
had introduced an Aliens BUI — a bill to prevent the
free entrance of undesirable foreigners into England,
whose entrance "takes the children's bread and gives it
to dogs" — should at the same time be introducing alien
Chinese or Indian coolies into South Africa. Would
not this measure deprive the white man in South Africa
of labour, and would not that pass into yellow hands ?
This was the first catchword of politics. Any stick is
good enough to beat a dog with; any cry is good
enough, it would seem, to injure a* political party in
power, and to secure the sweets of office for one's self.
This is the morality of politics. Not a high creed, it
is true, but one which we are assured is essential to the
great blessing of party government. Well, of course.

48 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
"the cry" had little wool with it. There was going
to be no displacement of white labour ; there was, in
fact, going to be a replacement of white labour in the
mines in consequence of the introduction of this low-
class, unskUled labour of the Chinese. For every seven
or eight Chinamen who displaced no other workmen,
one white man would find employment in connection
with the machinery or working of the mills and mines.
But some urged. Why could not the mines be worked
by white men? What a splendid opening if the lazy
blacks were allowed to return to their kraals, and then
97,800 places could be taken by white men. Were
there not 12,000,000 people in Britain on the verge of
starvation ? according to Sir Henry Campbell-Banner-
man. Here, then, was their chance. But the suggestion
was simply sUly. White men in the Transvaal receive
in wages from £1 to £1 5s, a day, and at such wages
the mines could not pay, and would have to be shut
down. Even millionaires have to consider commercial
possibilities. But could we not, without replacing
Kaffir labour by white labour — could we not eke it
out by white men's work ? Here we come across an
anomaly. It may seem very wicked, very unchristian,
but white men in South Africa wUl not work with
black. A South African in London one day got up on
an omnibus in the city, and just after he was seated
beside the driver, a negro clambered up at the back.
" Why," said the South African, " do you carry dogs on
this bus ? " " Dogs, mister," answered the driver ; " there

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 49
be no dogs on this bus." " Yes," said the colonist, " one
got up at the back just now." The driver turned his
head, and, seeing the black man, said, "Why, he be as
good as you or I."
That may be the English view, but it is not the South
African. The prejudice — you shall caU it that — has deep
roots, and white men wUl not work shoulder to shoulder
with the black. They wiU not recognize the equality of
man and man when their colours differ. They would regard
the idea " that man and man the world o'er shaU brothers
be and a' that " as a lie, and however foolish this senti
ment may be — a sentiment I have endeavoured elsewhere
to explain — it is a fact to be reckoned with. They are oil
and vinegar, and wUl not mix. Indeed, some men of a
more phUosophical turn than the rest say that our
empire in South Africa must depend on the two races
being kept separate and distinct — upon the English re
maining the conquerors and the blacks the conquered race.
They say, what may or may not be true, that Spain and
Portugal have lost their position in their colonies, and
have deteriorated from heroes and discoverers until
they are imbecUes and beggars, by the mixture of their
once fine blood, so high and proud, with the blood of
those who were always low and sorning. And it is in
this way that they plausibly defend thS sentiment which
keeps the handful of whites white, and the thousands
of blacks black. It is a question of who shall have the
upper hand.
At any rate, one thing is quite certain, and that is.

50 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
that as things stand it is impossible to count on white
and black or piebald labour in the mines. Under these
circumstances, what was to be done ? The mines must be
worked, otherwise the country would be bankrupt, and the
race would have to clear out of South Africa. So the
Government turned its eyes to China. There the labourers
receive from Id. to 2d. a. day. "Chinese cheap labour"
had become a byword in America. But cheap labour
was a necessity to the mines if prosperity to South Africa
was to be secured. Say that it would also make fortunes
for some of the Johannesburg " crowd," was that a reason
for saying " No, we wiU let the colony perish rather than
aUow some gentlemen with foreign names to become
mUlionaires and make Park Lane vulgar " ? That, I
venture to say, would have been a foolish and vindictive
attitude. It is the colony we desire to see rich, and if
some astute gentlemen " scoop " in great gains in con
nection with that prosperity, that is not a matter to stand
in the way of wise legislation. The war against capital is
a foolish one, and great capitalists are a necessary evil.
Without great capital the mines could not be sunk, the
gold coiUd not be got in the Rand. I think it was Bacon
who said that great wealth was like manure when collected
in great heaps ; it did no good and was noisome, but when
widely spread over the earth it did good to the land and
would in time yield a bountiful harvest. Well, the cry
against Park Lane was a foolish one, like all the other
"cries," but the tune soon changed. It was seen that "the
displacement of white labour'' would not work as a policy ;

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 51
it was seen that the country was not ripe for a war against
capital and capitalists ; but some one cleverly took from
the old armoury the weapon cry of slavery, and now the
sympathy of mankind was invoked for the Chinese who
were to be transported from their native land, kept in a
compound, deprived of their liberty, and what not. It
was no use telling these people who had found this
effective weapon that the Chinaman was to be well paid,
and get wages six or seven times as great as he got at
home ; that he was to be better fed than millions of work
men who are toUing in Britain to-day, and weU housed ;
that he was to be medically attended on the voyage, better
provided on ship-board than our emigrants when they seek
far lands from England ; that they could, if they chose,
bring wives and children with them to South Africa. All
this was no answer to the cry of slavery. He was to be a
slave for three years, even if at the end of that time he
was sent back to China. It was pointed out that a certain
amount of restraint was essential while the Chinaman
was in the Transvaal, and that the introduction of large
numbers of another race which were free to live and breed,
to intermarry with, to underbid and undersell our ovm people
in the markets of our colonies, was not a route which would
ultimately lead to prosperity. Nothing was listened to in
the hubbub of party. But the noise has subsided.^ It is
known that coolie labour of a simUar indentured type
' Perhaps this is only to some extent true. I see that some politicians
still try to resuscitate the worn-out clamour ; but they are home-made
politicians. Any one who knows the feelings of South Africa would
take refuge in silence from that foolish clamour.

52 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
exists in other British colonies. It is known that there,
as in South Africa, it has been demanded by the necessity
of the case, and that there it has worked weU. It is known,
too, that the Special Commissioner, I think he is called,
who was sent out by the Daily Chronicle, has reported
that the foolish cry of slavery has found no echo of
sympathy in South Africa. It is known, too, that the
introduction of Chinese labour has even already produced
colonial prosperity and the greater employment of white
men in the mines. Let me give you the figures which
were issued by the Mines Department on the 21st
November. The total number of employees in the mining
industry on the 31st October was 15,433 whites, 91,280
natives, and 12,965 Chinese, being an increase of 146
whites over September. In October 1903, 13,206 whites
were employed, so that the past month shows an increase
of 2227 more whites than in the same month of the
previous year. Not much displacement here, I should
say.

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 53

XII
To-day we are stiU in the tropics, but getting nearer the
equator, and stUl under the tyrannous rays of the high
sun, unmitigated by cold breezes. The sea is like glass
for the first time ; there are waves, but they are blunt —
only sleek waves, too lazy to rise to a ridge or break into
a foam frill. Even the ripples have passed away, and
their places are taken by dimples. The only great
disturbance is the deep furrows which the ship makes as
it pushes on, furrows which seethe and whisper as they
traU away to the stern. To-day, when I was sitting on
a deck-chair before breakfast, the domineering old bore
to whom I had come to courteous loggerheads a night or
two before, came up and sat down beside me to inflict
himseK upon me for a time. With a forgiving spirit, he
explained to me the whole theory of the main air currents
and the water currents of the world. He assumed, as all
bore expositors do, the entire ignorance of his hearer,
and explained the whole matter to his entire satisfaction,
but not in a way which would have satisfied Magnall's
questions. After half an hour of this sort of thing, and
presuming on my courteous acquiescence, he went on to

54 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
expound some cheap science from Lubbock about plants
and insects, and even that, although I had known it
from infancy, I did not resent; but, thank heaven, the
breakfast bugle sounded, and I breathed again. Eating
is a dull thing when the temperature is at 88° and when
one has no appetite, but it is better than the second
hand science from an unmitigated bore. But it is
Sunday, and that is a day for patience.
The broad mirror of ocean lets you see with distinct
ness the scurrying fish, which leave a trail of ripples as
they fly away from the ship. Sometimes half a dozen
rise at the same moment, and their level flight makes
a star of disturbed surface on the sea. The flight of these
" denizens of the deep," as our round-mouthed ancestors
of the eighteenth century would have called them, always
makes me think of the mental flights of men from the
solid facts of life, the thicker medium of science, into
the fine art of phUosophy and poetry. Really man's
mind is amphibious. It lives, for the most part, like the
fiying-fish, in the ocean of the real, but by the develop
ment of some of its organs — fins into wings — it is able
to take short fiights in the air of the ideal, although, like
it, it has always, on tired wing or fin, to drop back into
the sea. This in man is like Shelley's "desire of the
moth for the star." Alas! that we must return and
waUow. But still we have been in the " ampler ether,"
we have been in the high air, and the ocean is not every
thing ; there is a sky and a heaven, and we are never the
same mere swimming fish after that excursion. If not

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 55
then as Whitman finely says, " If the grave ends us, then
alarm, for we are undone."
But I complained, only a few lines back, of the
oppression of a bore, and here I am imitating him
unmercifully. Better take an example and explain the
simple things I see, and, of all the things I see, by far
the most interesting is the heavens. Let me, like the
flying-fish, take a short excursion in the air, and say a
word about the clouds which I see all day long. I have
never seen such an uninvaded heaven before. Usually
we see a strip of sky with great clefts taken out of it
by the aggressing hUls, or a mere ribbon of firmament
between stiff, curtailing houses. But here the sky is
all the universe — the changing canopy of a wavy sea.
Indeed, it is the waves and the lights which they hold
in their hands which make the sea what it is. Under the
blackness the sea is dark, suUen, repellent, and its depths
speak terror to the soul. When the clouds are drawn
aside and the uninterrupted sun shines on the sea, the
ocean is tossing glory. A grey above is faithfully
reflected in pearls below, and the shadow of these high
clouds now falls in regal purple islands, round which
glistening lagoons of light are painted on the sea as the
sun peeps round the fleecy corners of these saUing hills
in air. At the close of day in grand scrolls the clouds
are stretched in the west, some of them solemn blue,
some of them gentle gold, and some of them strident
scarlet. But we have to look back and see who shifts the

56 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
scenes, and we used to think, not unnaturally, that it was
all done by the winds, which were always dressing and
undressing the sky, as a chUd dresses and undresses
its doll. It was the viewless winds that made our
views. It was these nurses, the breezes, which dandled
all the long-clothed clouds in their arms and made one's
days dull and grey, but which also made the vistas in
skyland which capture the eye and lead the imagina
tion. All this seemed clear enough. But there are
other agents at work besides these easy explanations,
the winds. It was long ago shown that the condensa
tion of drops of water from air saturated with aqueous
vapour, was often brought about by particles of dust. I
can imagine Johannesburg "perk up" at that news. It
seemed odd, no doubt, that dust could bring rain, and
in the old days many divines would have found a special
providence in this arrangement. He sent the dust, but
he sent the water-cart also. Tempering the wind to
the shorn lamb is not more beneficent than making
dust the cause of the rain which is to lay that ghost
of an arid land or a dry road. It was, however, quite
certain that in the absence of dust considerable super-
saturation of air could be attained before condensation
began. Each particle of dust, it seems, forms a nucleus
round which the molecules of water collect, and when
the drops have become of sufficient size they fall and
carry down with them the dust particles as well. It
has long been a common belief that showers wash the
atmosphere, and it is true that in this way the air is

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 57
freed from the presence of dust and tired beings live
after a shower of rain. There is another common or
vulgar error, as Sir Thomas Browne would have called
it, extant, in the belief that the firing of guns in battle
cause, by the noise they make, rains. There is some
foundation for this belief, and to my thinking it is
probably to be found in the fact that the guns not
only make a noise, but throw into the atmosphere a
great deal of charcoal dust, and that that has the same
effect on a wet atmosphere as the sand I have been
referring to. But I am becoming as pedantic as the
passenger on board who had a thermometer. It is not
only rain-clouds that make our heavens, but the high
atmospheric dust is as important a colouring material
in nature's paint-box as the water mists of which we
know so much in our humid days. Many people will
remember a year of red sunsets. It is long gone now,
and that only because the volcanic dust of Krakatoa
has had time to fall, because the atmosphere has been
whitewashed by rains, and our skies have returned to
the Quaker uniforms of soberer days.
But the wonders of the sky are growing upon us.
Not only have the rain-drops a core of dust, but if we
get air which has been freed from all such nuclei, and
«
we allow the air to be played upon by Rontgen rays
or other ionizing agency, a dense cloud is at once formed
in the wet air. If, on the other hand, there are no ions,
then there is no cloud. It would seem, then, that electric
ions can also be the nuclei of rain-drops, the cause of

58 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
clouds, one of the great agencies in making one's skies
what we know them, and as I have seen them for many
companionable days over this great Atlantic.
But I am probably doing to you what the gentleman
on board did to me before breakfast. I am boring you
by telling you things you know. Well, my excuse must
be my intercourse with these great galleons of the air for
the past week. I have seen them saU over a lone sea.
I have seen them crowd in their fleets till it darkened.
I have seen them shine as Moses' face did. I have seen
them scatter into a great empty heaven. They have
dominated my days, these clouds, in the bright hours,
and that must be my lame excuse. But the breakfast
bugle relieved me from the conversational clutches of
my bore. I wUl, like Macklin, who when he wanted to
teU his famous story of a gun, feigned to hear a gun, and
then said, " Speaking of guns, that reminds me," and then
he told his story — I will feign to hear the breakfast
bugle.

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 59

XIII
Oh, the incessant sea ! We are over the equator, and
the round horizon hems us in with indomitable beauty.
The waves to-day are blue under a blue sky, with a sun
overhead, but below them is the gentle violence of a
summer's breeze, which blows the tops off the waves
into rainbows. When we were passing near Africa, but
stUl with many glistening miles of sea between us and
the hot coast, an insect, bright green, with gossamer
wings and grasshopper-like legs, was blown to us, and
alighted on the deck for a few resting moments. This
insect — one of the mantidse, or mantis religiosa, as a
learned one amongst us, with pardonable ostentation, in
formed us — is known as the Hottentot god, and I have
heard that, from its genufiective legs, the French have
called it the Prie dieu insect. It was a' pleasant, sudden
message from the shore, but another puff of wind sent
it on its staggering journey. We had the same day
another curious visitant from the hidden continent, as
curious in its way as a message sent by Hertzean waves,
and perhaps capable of similar uses in the future. We
were, as I say, many mUes from land — indeed, Africa
was buried in the sea; but its hot breath came curling

60 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
over the waves, and sought out its own. One amongst
us, who had suffered in Rhodesia from malarial fever,
was touched by it, and his old disease, as if by a miracle,
came back to him, as if by the touch of a breath it was
recaUed from the memory of the flesh. His temperature
was 103°, and he did not leave his cabin for three days.
If the bright insect was the Hottentot god, surely this
was the Hottentot devil! One sees possibUities in this
which may throw the Marconigraph into the shade.
Perhaps the god and devU were to speak learnedly,
"allied species," for is not malarial fever probably caused
by an insect bite ? At any rate, here was the sharp
reminiscence of that painful experience.
We are now in seas alive with flying-fish, those
swallows of the great deep ; and yet there is a conscious
ness, too, that underneath our keel, on either side of us,
the hungry waves are only the glistening wigwams of a
hungrier voracity than their own — the voracity of sharks.
The consciousness of the yearning greed of these as one
lies in one's berth and thinks of the deep, dark fathoms
which are beneath, gives one a creeping sensation of fear,
which is quite foreign to this great floating hotel, where
the evening hours are passed with " flying feet ; " where
the band discourses the music of the halls, and the day
is loaded with heavy meals which break the heavier
leisure. To many on board the strange dishes, the
southern fruits which are served to them, are the most
interesting experience of the voyage. Their geography
lies in their palates ; but 1 may be wrong. Perhaps they

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 61
are not as greedy as the sharks ; but the players at bridge,
progTessive whist, the daUy gamblers on the ship's run,
these show an avidity for gain which takes one back to
shore again. The Stock Exchange, it would seem, suffers
from no maladie de mer, and is always with us. I found
it again in Johannesburg "going strong." Will this
vulgar voyage never end ? It is the people make me
petulant. I have kept my temper very well untU now ;
but it is the sea and the sky, the albatrosses on their
two scythe-like wings, with which they seem to mow
the air, that have kept me in a good humour, not the
music of the band, the rubber quoits, the deck sports,
and the fancy dress ball. I go to my cabin, and have
these sounds of revelry pelted at me through a door.

62 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

XIV
Every church tower would be a spire if it could, and
Salisbury Cathedral shows the successful issue of the
tower's ambition. I am convinced that Table Mountain,
which is a tower of a hiU, would have been a spire of
a hill, like the DevU's Peak, if it could. It is striking,
but unfinished. If I remember aright, Euskin pointed
out that the true type of the leaf ended in a point, and
was angry with the leaf of the tulip tree because it was
a web-footed leaf, broadly diverted from the true type.
To my mind, a blunt mountain is an anomaly, and there
are crowds of them in South Africa. But when I have
made this complaint of the rock which towers into the
clear sky above Cape Town, I have done, and I have to
admit that the land, as seen from Table Bay, although
more like the heft of a hill than the blade, is impressive.
It was the first land we had seen for ten watery days,
and " such a stranger " seen again had a friendly look.
We had had excellent weather, but you tire of weather
when you have nothing else but that and meals. I could,
if the land of South Africa had only been England — I
could, like Brutus in Tarquin's time, have stumbled and
fallen and kissed my mother earth. But although it was

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 63
land, and human at that, it was what the Scotch call
" fremdt " or " stranger " land to me. So, instead of
stumbling, which might have been misconstrued, I looked
at it through my field-glasses, and saw to perfection in
the morning light this snub-nosed mountain and the two
Roman noses beside it, which dominate the bay. Perhaps
this truncated mountain looks more so because of the
sharp peaks of the Lion's Head and the Devil's Peak, which
are in close contrast with it. These are hUls, if you like,
invading heaven with aggressive points. But the little
range is fine as a whole, with the green herbage scaling
the mountain-side, with its bare precipices at a higher
range, and with all its details bulging on the eye through
the clear air of Africa. If Africa is to a large extent a
rock and a stone-heap of sparsely clad veldt, it is blessed
with an air and a sky which is not earthly, but heavenly.
The air annihilates distance as does a telescope. It
brings beautiful bluish or gentle pink mountains which
are fifty mUes away from you, over the red, earthy veldt,
with its stunted karoo bushes, close to you, so that you
can trace the features and the wrinkles on the stony faces
of these sphinxes. And so this intimacy of the bluff
Table Mountain and its two aerial sentinels seemed to
put out of existence the four or five miles which divided
us. It was a beautiful, calm, swSfet dawn when we
approached the dock, and the white houses of the town
made their way into the morning light. We went slowly,
with our great floating bulk, into the dock, which gave
my eyes time to ramble all over the Table Mountain and

64 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
up the wooded slopes of the DevU's Peak. But after
creeping through the gull-frequented waters, we came
into the dock and alongside the quay. Ah, then came,
as they always come, meetings and partings! Bright
smUes of recognition and of welcome after a time of
weary widowed eyes. But there were partings too, and
some lids went in the red direction of tears. I saw one
gentleman who recognized his son in four different
persons, so bad was his sight, but so eager was his heart.
I liked him for his pretty mistakes. But soon the world
of business routed the world of feeling. There was the
luggage to be looked after, the emigration officer to inter
view, and what not. The stewards, deck, cabin, and
bath, were all there with alert eyes and obsequious palms,
as greedy as the cormorants in the dock were for the
mullet.

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 65

XV
I HEARD that a gentleman had been asking for me, and
after some search I found him. He was an able, intelli
gent man, with the slightest flavour of " American " in
his talk. It was not unpleasant that sound — a little
taste of onion in salad. Ah, how it takes from the
insipid monotony ! So it was with his slight American
accent. He told me that he had, " by directions," come
down from Johannesburg to meet me, and that he had
a saloon car at the station, which was to be attached,
if I saw no objection, to the evening train that night to
take me the 1049 mUes which lie arid and dusty between
Cape Town and Johannesburg. And he proposed that,
when I was disposed, we might proceed to the car and talk
over our business there. All this was exceedingly well
thought of, even beyond the courtesy which one had a
right to expect. To proceed through Africa with the
luxury which attends a mUlionaire, had been far beyond
my expectations. But here luxury was to my hand,
and I took it. We spent the whole forenoon in the
car on a siding at the Cape Town station, with papers
on the table of the saloon, and flies everywhere. The
saloon was a large and comfortable one, and the

66 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
bedrooms connected with it looked inviting even in the
heat of the day. The kitchen, too, was commodious,
and the black cook and the white waiter, with its help,
did good work on our journey up, as also did the bath
room, a luxury beyond our daring hopes. After working
from nine to twelve, we went to see something of Cape
Town on our way to the Mount Nelson Hotel to lunch.
Cape Town did not impress me favourably, although
its position between the Devil ('s Peak) and the deep
sea is magnificent. It is a tawdry town. There is no
art in its streets, as there is everywhere in Funchal.
The buildings are bad echoes of England's poorest archi
tecture, and have business pretentiousness on their stone
and stucco faces. There is also an air of slovenliness
in the town which goes ill with its pretentiousness. I
liked to see the blacks and Malays and Cape boys
about. Here, it seemed, I was coining face to face with
"the problem." Plays are nothing nowadays unless
there is a problem fly in the amber of dialogue, and
so a book of travels in South Africa would be nothing
if it had not a problem too. But the immediate problem
was Itmch at the Mount Nelson, and there was nothing
tawdry about that. The Cape soles were as good as
those off the Dogger Bank ; indeed, the ^hotel is an ex
cellent English hotel in a sub-tropical garden. But my
American friend and guide was not content with a saloon
car for Johannesburg; he had two motors at the door
of the Mount Nelson Hotel at two o'clock, and we started
on one of the most beautiful and varied drives that

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 67
motor-cars ever went. First along the Victoria Road,
then over a convict-made road by the sea at the foot of
great hUls of the Table Mountain architecture. On the
shore were some huge rocks, over which the waves were
breaking in a hundred rockets of spume. Then we
wound through a valley in the peaked hills, and came,
after passing a sort of dazzling white sand on the hill
side, to Houts Bay, where the sea had come a long
way to tryst with us. Here we turned and went through
a valley, clambered up a high pass, and then came
down a sloping valley on the other or eastern side.
Before us were stretched great chains of mountains.
These were the picturesque mountains which lie behind
Wellington and Lady Grey, and in the afternoon light
their fantastic peaks had a beauty which is seldom seen
on sea or shore.
In the valley which we were descending to Con-
stantia, there was a small forest of ghosts of trees
(they call them the silver leaf), but they are white by
day, and would horribly shake our dispositions if seen
in the glimpses of the moon. We then ran through
shady groves through the beautifiU suburb of Wynburg,
past vUlas with their beautiful gardens, and then back
alongside the tramway lines to Cape Town. We had
been about thirty-three miles in about two and a half
to two and three-quarter hours, and the black who
drove the old Panhard in which I was, had driven well
and with excellent discretion. My first look at the
black problem was prepossessing. I have seen dozens

68 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
of French drivers who could not drive half as well as
this black boy.
It is no use attempting to give you an idea of
the landscape which hurried past us as the mUes flew
under our wheels. The hills were like Salisbury Crags
upon the top of Salisbury Crags, and more on the
top of that, and between these tablelands some airy
peak which in the cold clear heavens met the sun
on even terms. Every scene was different, and each
was beautiful in its way. But I think it was the
lavish growth of flowers that struck me most. It is
the beginning that is the best of summer, and there
did not seem to be a flower that had not come to the
meeting. The pelargoniums were in purple bushes.
What we used to call the African lUy, with its lop
sided white flower and green leaves (they caU it
" arum " now), was making light in every shady place.
But it is impossible to enumerate them. I do not
know their names. I felt their beautiful presence. I
saw brooms with blue flowers; flowers like everlast
ings, but everywhere yellows, pinks, and purples, in the
most beautiful garden mosaic. I had seen, of course,
some of these flowers in England, but now it was not
the stiff hand of the gardener who had done the
planting, is was not a grudging climate which did the
growing. It was the royal hand of Nature at her best
that had sown, and gracious skies that had grown, this
garden fair. I resented the motor-car then. I should
have liked to wander with the flowers up and down

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 69
the hill-sides, to talk with them, to dally with them,
to establish an intimacy with them (I am on good
terms with primroses and cowslips at home). But
instead of spending a long holiday with them — not
merely to know their names, that is a small thing,
but to know them, which is a great thing — I was
hurried past them all, and left a whirl of dust to mark
where we had been. You see, the saloon car was to be
attached to the train leaving Cape Town at nine that
night. There was much to be done before that, and
there was no time for philandering with wild flowers,
and we had to pack all our delights into a few short
hours, which is as difficult as it is to get aU you want
into a cabin trunk. So back we came. I am un-
wUling to say a word against Africa after that drive;
when it had greeted me with summer flowers, it de
serves the best 1 can say of it. But the dust, not only
motor-car dust, but Cape dust ! For an hour I loathed
myself; but water redeemed me and gave me back my
self-respect, and we had tea in the saloon of the car,
to which by this time a thousand flies had invited
themselves. They were not welcome guests. After that
we went back to the Mount Nelson Hotel, had an
excellent dinner, with fresh strawberries — they were, I
think, fresher and sweeter because it was November.
It is thus that imagination controls the palate. We
spent a little time in the darkening garden, and then
walked back under the fuU moon to the station. It
was a day that deserves a chapter.

70 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT

XVI
When we were lunching at the Mount Nelson we saw
Doctor Jim, the Premier of Cape Colony and the hero of
a fiasco. That circumstance made me think of politics.
When it was proposed to give responsible government to
Cape Colony, some far-seeing wise men warned us against
that leap in the dark. Some said that Great Britain
was by her liberal policy paving the way to Dutch
supremacy in the colony, and ultimately to civil war.
These prophecies have been proved to a large extent true.
The civil war in Cape Colony was worse than the war in
the Orange River Colony or the Transvaal, because it was
smouldering, and, according to many I have spoken with,
the red fire is stiU in the embers of Dutch hate. In the
north it was fair open war, and the Boers knew that they
were beaten, and even, it is said, respect the British.
In Cape Colony there are many of the Dutch who
think and bear themselves as if they had been the
conquerors, and all our clemency, our repatriation, and
the rest of our eager conciliations, are regarded as the
indemnity we paid for the peace we so much desired.
They talk about peace, but there is no peace. In Cape
Colony the rebellion which was in men's hearts never

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 71
came to a real head, and never had that head been bruised
by the iron heel of war. More's the pity. We have to
day a hostile camp within our lines. The aspirations of
the Bond are the same that instigated their disloyalty —
they dream of Dutch supremacy in South Africa, and see
their way to achieve it by votes, the swords of peace,
instead of the swords of war. In this colony war has
not ceased, although it never began. The smouldering
hate of our rule continues. It is true that at the last
election the Progressives, the party that stands for Eng
land, obtained a smaU majority, partly owing to the black
vote. But the war wUl be waged again. A black vote is
a fickle weapon to rely upon, but we have given the
niggers votes for some time-serving purpose. And if the
Bond succeeded in weaning these black chUdren from
the Progressive party, the future of Cape Colony would
be as black as its voters. It is true that the black vote
is, I understand, on an educated franchise. The nigger
must be able to sign his name, and must have an income.
These are our safeguards. To me the future of a state
where rebellion is on the boil does not seem promising.
I see that the policy of the Prime Minister of the colony
is Progressive, as it must be. He proposes to deal in the
next session of Parliament with education and v?ith
agriculture. He is a bold man, none can doubt ; but here
he has taken in hand a nettle and a thistle — politics with
a vengeance.

72 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT

XVII
At nine we left Cape Town. The moon gave light
enough to make everything beautiful, but did not give
enough light to see by. But I was warned before I went
to bed that I should, if possible, see the Hex River,
and by some good luck I wakened from a wearied
sleep before the train reached Worcester, and saw the
gigantic scenery as well as the feeble moonlight would
let me. It was impressive, and left a deep if blurred
impression on memory. The recollection lives with me
now in feeling, as do some of Mr. Peppercorn's pictures,
which depend for their success upon masses of light
and shade, and not upon a niggling fretwork of many
colours. But I saw just enough to make me wish to
see more. My appetite was whetted, not satisfied. So
after a time I pulled up the dust-shutter, and let the
lids fall upon eyes wearied with delights and fell
asleep. When I wakened in the morning there was
an unsmudged day over the veldt, which was covered
with karoo bushes and some other stunted growths of
more vivid greens and yeUows. But all the herbage
grows in tufts, and the red or yellow earth shows
everywhere between the bushes ; even these, when

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 73
seen with level eye, makes the plain look full of
vegetation to where the hUls and kopjes lift their
barrenness into the view. I lay in my bed and looked
at the beauty of the scene; for it had a beauty, even
where the stretch of unvarying veldt is bounded by
some brown kopje. But when, as in the forenoon,
the view of the browned earth and the grey-green
bushes which grow on it for a distance of some forty
or fifty mUes on either hand was ended to the south
east by a congeries of rugged mountains, many of
them flat like Table Mountain, many of them as peaked
as a rhinoceros horn, with beautiful lights upon them,
which are only lined into prominence by the delicate
shadows which are thrown by a high sun down their
steep declivities, the view was magnificent. All day
long the foreground was golden dust, but the sky
was blue, and the hiUs fretted the sky with their
rugged peaks and ridges. Scenery? Yes, there were
mUes of scenery, leagues of scenery. Faded yellow
plains and brown kopjes, sometimes with flat tops, and
their stone ribs showing, sometimes pointed like the
boss on a shield. And this for days. Sometimes a
homestead, with its willows and poplars and green
trees, blesses the veldt-wearied eye for a short season,
but then again comes the great plain, the arid stretches,
and the threadbare hUls. To live in such a place, as
an Irishman might say, would mean suicide. But if
you are a true Dutchman, and monotony suits you,
this, vsdth sufficient sjamboked black labour and a

74 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
shady stoep to smoke upon, is paradise — for remember
the sky is over all, and it's "all right with the world."
But the day, notwithstanding the dun sameness of its
hours, was full of wonders, which delighted such novices
in the veldt as I am. The colour of the kopjes — there
were as many colours as the language has names for —
sometimes they were deep and sombre red, some
times bright chrome yellow. In the evening, untU the
sun sank, many of them were orange tawny, some
aureolin, and some had a pink flush as if the stones
were blushing. But when the sun went, then royal
purple hung on their rugged shoulders, deepening into
warm blue, and ultimately . into frigid blue, before the
blackness came and the stars of the Southern Cross
looked out. It is wonderful what curious results a
conspiracy of bare rocks or heaps of stones and sun
shine can produce. Seen from afar, the sun's rays on
these bare brazen fronts have an exquisite beauty. No
one, until he has seen South Africa, can imagine how
exquisite a sun-lighted stone wall can be. It was the
Shunammite that cried, " See, the sun hath looked upon
me ; " and Africa is always proclaiming the same fact
in the beauty of its colour and the splendours of its
barrenness. To-day I have seen hills brown, but grained
with darker shadows ; sometimes hills of solemn blue,
but with gentler azure ranges further off. This was
monotony, and yet no monotony. The sea of hUls
was like the ocean, always the same and always
different.

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 75
But again the mirages delighted me. I had heard
of them, but my scepticism had made me chary of belief.
But there they were great lakes on the flat horizon, with
sometimes paynes-grey promontories and islands in them.
Oh, how the imagination, like books, delights the eye ! I
felt sea-breezes coming from the hard desert. But the
day was fuU of other incidents. We saw blockhouses,
and the ruins of blockhouses — the old clenched fists of
war. They were, as I said before, the ingenious invention
of the British, who had been beaten in mobUity. The
slim Boer slipped through our slow fingers. He did
not ask more than "bUtong." Tommy Atkins wanted
tinned meats. And, as a fact, they were too ubiquitous
for us. A game of hide-and-seek in war palled upon
us. In masses the Boers could not stand against us ;
in lightness we were over-matched. So the block
houses and the barbed wire were invented to clip the
Boer's wings and deprive him of mobility. And there
they are for monuments.
One word about the war. If the Boers had been
as good at the other arts of war as they were at their
quick journeys and nimble disappearances, they would
have made us pay dearly for our tardy victory. But
the Boers excel in repose. They reposed round Mafe-
king. They reposed outside Kimberley. They might
have taken Ladysmith if they had had generals. All
this is in curious contrast to our own proceedings —
with Sir Redvers BuUer, so careful of his men that he
threw away guns and battle. The Japanese might have

76 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
taught him that the art of war is not philanthropy.
Lord Roberts, with his great massive march to Pretoria,
which ended a war which had not begun. And Lord
Kitchener's excellent organization to find needles in carts
of hay. It was a war of cross-purposes, and the honours
— there were very few of them — were " easy."
But my journey. We saw many little graveyards
with crosses over the places where Englishmen lay. But
these were sad sights. That day, too, we passed several
ostrich farms, and saw those curious birds which are all
bustle and no skirt.
There were only 80 domestic ostriches in the year
1865 ; but in the year 1897 there were no fewer than
237,000 of these birds in captivity. In 1880 there
was a boom in ostriches. As much as £200 was
often given for a pair of birds ; and a very fine pair
has been known to fetch £1000. Ostrich feathers
are worth about £4 6s. 2d. a pound; and in 1882,
when the price was at its highest, the feathers real
ized £1,093,989 for the colony. Birds have been
known to live fifty-five years, and a bird may realize
for its owner £25 each plucking in good seasons,
when the price is high. To its shame, be it said,
that ostrich feathers is one of the few significant ex
ports of South Africa. A set of colonies where mealies
grow like weeds without irrigation, stUl imports mealies.
A country where fruit grows with as little care as in
California, does not export canned fruits. Goat's hair
and feathers and gold and diamonds, these are its staple

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 77
exports. But in the old schoolboy rhyme, if my memory
serves me, it ran —
" The rule of three
It puzzles me.
And practice drives me mad."
Statistics have the same effect upon me as practice had
on that sluggard urchin.
But my travels. One thing must not be forgotten —
we had seen little whirlwinds made visible by dust
passing over the dry land watered by dry spruits.
But at one place we encountered a real dust storm.
The atmosphere was not air, but dust. One breathed
gritty dust. One could not see the houses of the
guerilla towns for dust. It penetrated everywhere. If
I remember aright, a distinguished surgeon who visited
South Africa during the war, spoke only of two plagues
— women and flies. He must have been a man of
superficial observation, as he did not add — dust. All
that Africa wants to make it a garden is floods. If
nature, when it made the Witwatersrand, had, instead of
stopping short at the height of 6000 feet above sea-
level, pushed the ridge up another 6000 or 7000 feet,
so that its golden head might have been crowned with
perpetual snow — had this happened, and had the waters,
white waters, from these high snows poured down in
perennial streams, making water furrows the whole way
to the sea, the aspect of that great continent would
have been very different to-day. It is possible that the
gold mines would have been more difficult to discover

78 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
and to work, but veins of water which would have
been all over the land with their rich deposits of soil
would have made Africa — which is a desert — a garden ;
and in the garden, ah, there would have been a people
very different from the motley riff-raff crowd which
lives to-day in Johannesburg. But it is no use crying
over spilt milk, or over unspilt water.

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 79

XVIII
Pictures of travel in South Africa would be very in
complete if they did not include a sketch in black and
white (mostly black) of the native. But it would be
an error in the other direction if a veracious writer
were to give an elaborate history of the Bantu race,
however little, want of knowledge might stand in his
way. The native is not by any means a noble savage.
He is a liar. But here he is not superior to the Boer,
who has a Dutch saying well implanted in his con
science, and acts upon it. " Am I," says this proverbial
wisdom, " the slave of my word ? " This is noble free
dom. The native of South Africa is not the slave of
his word any more than his Dutch neighbour. It would
be easy to prove that assertion by quite a number of
interesting instances. Not that he is the only Uar in
the world, but most liars use the untruth as "a very
present help in time of trouble ; " the Kaffir uses it on
all occasions. He is, too, devoid of gratitude, and in
that he ranks below the dog. To secure his respect
you must rule him, and here he is on a level with the
dog. To be kind to him is to earn his contempt. I
am not saying that in aU other respects he is unique.

80 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
but these are his saUent traits. Although he has a flne
past of savagery behind him, which might justify
atrocities, he is not very vindictive ; indeed, he has a
good deal of rare good humour in him. He is always
showing his teeth on the grin. He has great affection
for his young. It is true, as we have seen, that he
sells the female children to be wives and beasts of
burden when they grow up, under a practice called
sohola ; but that, in the opinion of many, is more
laudable than it seems. The wives, when sold, although
they work hard, are not the slaves which it suits some
interested persons, who play upon home sentiment, to
depict them; and, indeed, that they work hard, carry
water, and tUl the land, is the one excellent feature of
native life. If the men — who, now that they are not
allowed to flght, only loaf — were only made to labour
too, like the women, there would be more hope for the
future of the black races than is to be looked for from
the missionary efforts which are instigated at home —
efforts which are not to be judged by resiUts amongst
the natives, but by some excellent results in those who
support the missions, with their dark satellites, the
hypocritical " mission boys." The curse of the black is
his laziness; it is, perhaps, the curse of the white
man too. In the old days the native men had to
work at the great trade of war, and the women " minded
the house " or the hut. Now, like certain warrior ants,
they have got too lazy in these piping times of peace to
feed themselves and clean themselves — not that the latter

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 81
ever was a passion with the natives ; and you can see
them sleeping while the locusts raid their crops, and we
are told that they wUl not take the trouble to climb a
tree to get the fruit which nature holds to their hands for
the pulling, but that with characteristic improvidence they
will cut down the tree. It would seem that nature had
been too prodigal in her gifts to these, with this fertile
soil and good-humoured climate, and has made the men
idlers. They live from hand to mouth, and there is no
room between these for the making of character. Their
religion seems to be a crude form of ancestor worship, and
if their ancestors were like themselves it is not a high
creed. But they have their ghosts, and the witch-doctor
is really an important person in their dishevelled polity.
He divines by " throwing the bones," which seems to be
on a par of superstition with our own " divining rod," in
which all the people who sat at my table on the voyage to
the Cape fervently believed. Now, what is to be the
future of this raw savage, whose intellect is often as sharp
as a needle, and whose conscience is as blunt as Table
Mountain ? Is he to be treated as a chUd and governed,
or as a man, and given a vote ? One thing, as I have hinted,
seems certain, and that is, that our missionaries make
little way with them. You can induce most people —
except the people of Johannesburg — to go to church, but
it is more difficult to make Christians of them. That is
evident after eighteen hundred years of experiment.
Perhaps the error in South African missions is that our
pioneers of religion have begun at the wrong end. It
G

82 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
takes some imagination to make a man a Christian, and
only takes a little cunning to make a black man a " mission
boy." But is not religion the flower of the plant of life,
and must not the plant grow through a laborious spring,
before, in the full summer, it can put out its grateful
blossoms ? Ought we not to try first of all to make the
Kaffir a man, before we attempt the further development ?
As I think Bishop Gaul of Mashonaland said, " Necessity
comes before choice, 'must' comes before ought, and
work for a living before working for a liking." I
think, too, he was right when he said that the problem
before us is " to create such conditions, such wants, as
shall induce a natural necessity — such a necessity, in
fact, as shall practically force every able-bodied lad and
man in the country to earn his own living and the
living of his famUy." I don't know whether this is
orthodox doctrine, but it sounds like practical common
sense, and that from a bishop ! A missionary who
will make the black man work, who wUl bring to him
a destiny of toU instead of a destiny of idleness, wUl
do more for the race than the one who begins with
hymns and doctrines which make the black man strut.
That the black man can work well is not to be questioned;
that he must be made to work, if you wUl reclaim him
from savagery and idleness, seems to be a doctrine
which is worth the practical experiment of trying. The
African to-day, whatever he may be in the future, is
a little child, and must be led. To give them votes
because they are men, to allow a black majority to

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 83
rule Africa, is not a proposition which commends itself
to the common sense that has been half an hour in
South Africa. It is a policy that would be resisted with
force by a white South Africa, It is true we have put
this chopping-stick (votes) in the hands of the black fists
of Cape Colony. It is a hazardous experiment, even
although it has served the English party in its hour of
need. But Britain is so enamoured of its own institutions,
it is so flattered by being called the Mother of Parliaments,
that it will thrust its own institutions down the throats
of colonies, whether the dose is suited to their complaint
or not. Logic is a fine instrument, but it must be used
with discretion, and that is a precept England never
remembers. There is one curious trait about the black
man, which may exist in fact, but certainly exists in
the minds of many white observers. If I remember
aright, it was Shylock who asked, " If you cut us (the
Jews), do we not bleed ? " And the answer would seem
to be, certainly ; but in the case of the blacks the theory
is that they don't feel. You wUl hear instances of black
boys sitting up as interested spectators of operations
on their own legs or feet. There is, however, a similar
belief in chUdren who pluck off the wings of flies, that
they don't feel, and I have some doubt about the well-
foundedness of either theory. One thing might be argued
in favour of the view, and that is that pain is not felt
unless you go halfway to meet it, and that it is those
who have the most sensitive imaginations that suffer
most. It is imagination that is the " quick " of life.

84 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
The blacks are not, it would seem, largely endued with
that painful gift which looks "before and after," and
" sighs for what is not," and in that way they may be
protected from throes which white flesh feels, may be
as caUous as some say they are. But as against this
convenient theory, which is a salve to consciences which
recognize the black man only as an animal with an
immortal soul, it is to be remembered that the blacks
fall victims to diseases that the white man struggles
through. They succumb at once, and give up the ghost
before the time, whUe an Englishman wUl make a fight
for life, and wiU not be worsted by disease. I give these
observations, which have not been made by me, for what
they are worth.
There is one lesson which our teachers, generaUy seK-
appointed, are never tired of inculcating, and that is
the wholesome lesson of content. It is quite true that
it may become some to have ambitions, but for most
ordinary men it is wise to be content with that position
in life in which it has pleased God to place them. Such
a sentiment reeks of the Sunday school. But when we
find the blacks enjojdng their ease without dignity, we
preach quite a different sermon. He is content ; he
earned a good deal from our over-paying Government
in the war ; he goes to the mines and earns a good
wage ; he does, in most cases, more work than a white
man can — although some folk vsdll not have it so — his
wants are few, and he returns to his land and his kraal
with his small hoard, buys some wives, and sets us

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 85
an example of lazy contentment which it is hard to
imitate. But that policy of the black man does not suit
the white. He leaves the mine just when he is becoming
thoroughly useful, and as many of the blacks are in
this unambitious frame of mind, the mine is left short-
handed. This will never do. What we have to manage
somehow is to purge the black man of his contentment ;
to give him wants, desires ; to put in him the seeds of
hungry ambition which will make him learn to labour
and to wait. The benefactors of the world, I think.
Lander said, "were those who were dissatisfied." This,
then, is the logical resort of those who would make the
natives useful by persuasion ; but there are many who
hold bolder views, and would make them useful to them
selves, to employers, and to the community by com
pulsion, I think in this last matter, if in no other,
there is an agreement of harsh opinion between certain
Boer leaders, like Botha, Smuts, De la Rey, and Cronje,
and certain of the captains of industry who work the
mines. Of course, such sentiments shock people who
live at home at ease and do not know the idle black
man. What! force a British subject to work, whether
he desires to or not, and that in the interest of certain
capitalists or Rand lords whose sole desire is to make
large dividends ? Put it so, it looks indefensible enough.
But there is another aspect of the question. It is true
we have quite inordinate veneration for certain stock
phrases which have done service as banners in the past.
" Liberty of the subject " is one of these ; " Britons never.

86 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
never shall be slaves " is another that flourishes in song.
I fear that " Free trade " is another venerated rag. But
with calmer eyes we see that there are other principles
of government than these. We don't respect the liberty
of the subject in the case of the criminal whose hands
are furtive or whose methods, force. But that, of course,
is because society must be protected against such enemies.
Quite true. But there are quite other enemies of society
than these highwaymen and robbers. We have, in recent
years, come to the conclusion that ignorance is an enemy
of society, and we have set ourselves to remedy this
object by setting aside the liberty of the subject, and
by compulson making education a necessity. ChUdren
are no longer allowed to wallow in spacious ignorance.
They are made to learn. Parents are no longer allowed
to neglect the duty which they owe to their offspring.
Again, in other countries than our own the safety of
the State makes compulsory military service a necessity,
and even in Britain such a system of defence has
had the approval of a Royal Commission. If we can
get along without compulsory mUitary service it will
be well, but certain untoward circumstances might
make us have recourse to that method of defence
to-morrow, the which then would be another big nail
in the coffin of that dead doctrine the "liberty of the
subject." Now, there are apologists for forced labour in South
Africa who would tell you that ignorance is not a
greater enemy of the State, than the black laziness which

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 87
we have been whitewashing with the fine name of con
tentment. These men, we are told, are improvident, and
do not have an eye on to-morrow ; and when their gains
are spent, when the starvation they have invited sits
down at the bare board with them, they have to depend
upon the Government for support. But such men, we
learn, are not only an injury to themselves ; they are a
danger to the State that harbours and protects them,
they are a menace to the polity of our Colonial Empire.
Here again, we are urged, the liberty of the subject is
an absurd and atrophying doctrine, and the black man
should be made to labour. We have an example, too,
under somewhat simUar circumstances before our eyes.
Germany has the same kind of human material to deal
with in East Africa as we have in the south of the
continent, and Count Goetzen, the Governor, not long
ago informed the Berlin Colonial Society of an interest
ing experiment he had made. The experiment was
nothing but forcing the natives to work a certain
number of days in the year on certain viUage fields,
the proceeds of such labour, like " all Gaul," being
divided into three parts, one of which went to the head
man, one to the villagers, and one to the Commune of
Dar es Salaam.
Now, it would at the present juncture require a strong
colonial minister, an iron Government, to propose to in
troduce the corvee into South Africa. However popular
he might be in the colony, the British public is not
prepared to adopt slavery as a policy. It is quite true

88 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
that this is an attitude of cant, but ministers must shape
their sails to the wind of sentiment ; and the vehemence
of the feeling that we must leave men free to do as they
like, even when their doings are to some extent inimical
to society, is so strong that it must be reckoned with.
It is not a little curious to look at the past history of
this sentiment. Quite long ago, in 1811, the sentiment
came to a head. There were all sorts of sensational
rumours in England as to the way the blacks in South
Africa were treated by the whites. The London Mission
ary Society said the treatment was inhuman. As many
as one himdred murders had been committed in the
Uitenhage district alone. Inquiry was called for, and
took place. Over fifty-eight colonials, mainly of Dutch
extraction, had to stand their trial, and, after a hearing
which extended over four months, after many witnesses,
black and white, had been examined, the two judges
found there was no foundation for by far the greater
number of the charges made. No doubt some of the
colonials may have been cruel, no doubt some com
pulsion was put upon the blacks, but, as I say, the
verdict all round was. Not guUty. But this over
sensitive attitude of the folk at home led to results —
results which ought to be a warning. These colonials of
Dutch extraction were dissatisfied. They came to the
slow conclusion that the Government was on the side
of black idleness, of native supremacy. This resulted in
the great trek, and that was the beginning of a great
chapter in recent history. The colonists desired to deal

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 89
with their own labour questions without the inter
ference of Downing Street, hounded on to action by the
Aborigines' Protection Society. They were the dominant
race in South Africa, they thought they knew the black
and the black problem, and they knew that Downing
Street and its prompters did not. There was nothing
for it, they must clear out, and with their flocks and
their herds they went north and founded a new country,
where they were — in the phrase of obloquy which we
used to justify the war — free to whip their niggers. All
might have been weU with them had they not lighted
upon lands which had gold in their slanting reefs. Even
then, if the Dutch had kept the mining industry in their
own hands, things might have gone well with them. But
these folk of Dutch extraction were lazy; they were a
pastoral, not an industrial, people. It is said that you
require to send the wealth of the Indies to the Indies
to bring the wealth of the Indies from the Indies. The
gold-mines required gold-mines to work them. It re
quired great capital to extract these great treasures from
the earth's hard crust. So the mines fell into other
hands. The richest reef in the world was under their
feet, and foreigners came to the Transvaal like flies to
honey. A time came when the foreigners outnumbered
the Boers, and when, owing to their possession of the
mines, they had by far the greater proportion of the
wealth of the country in their Uitland hands. This
complication led to mischief. The people of Dutch ex
traction were the dominant class. They ruled the land.

90 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
and the people who by their industry were making
it rich and great and prosperous, had no say in the
government. They were, it would seem, put upon and
oppressed by these rulers. Then came a toy rebellion
of these men. They were going to make war on the
Dutch with one maxim gun and 2500 rifles and a
few cartridges. But the Boers quickly stamped out that
little flame of rebellion which the breath of Rhodes had
fanned. Now, here again was a curious complication.
The dominant race had a right to abolish these tin-soldier
conspirators, but England intervened. Lives were spared,
the ringleader was mercifully dealt with in England,
and a franchise for the Uitlander was demanded in very
firm tones. A franchise under such cfrcumstances was
equivalent to war. The Boers saw that they would be
outvoted. They would become the subservient element
in the community they had themselves founded. It was
asking too much, they thought, to demand their abdica
tion, and they resisted. They had been chased from
the south because their freedom was interfered with by
a sentimental government ; here again their freedom was
to be taken from them. They were, by the might of
England, to be forced to conclusions with the Uitlanders,
who had come to their country led there by their own
greed of gain, and who now demanded their country
and the power of it at their hands. So the war came,
and the result, which was delayed, was inevitable.
Although we made no reputation out of it, we were
bound to win.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 91
But what is the position now ? The white colonists
— Twe Uitlanders— are feeling, not the benefit of home
interference as they did at the time of the raid and the
war, but the detriment of Downing Street and the
trouble of St. Stephens. They want now, as the Boers
did long ago, to be free to settle their own labour
questions — be these questions black or white or yellow
— but England wUl not have it. The sentiment is as
blatant as ever. Are we to be warned by the old history ?
WiU interference from home in purely colonial matters,
as, for instance, where the colonies are to get their
servants from, lead to a new trek, to an excursion not
in space, but out of the fold of Imperial Government?
There are some pessimists who hold these dark views.
We see that, as no Government is strong enough to make
the black men work, another labour market had to be
resorted to. Government became the registry office for
servants for the mines, and furbished up an old con
vention with China which had been a dead letter since
1860, and passed the ordinance under which the mines
now draw some part of their labourers from China — an
arrangement which has already resulted in prosperity on
the gold ridge of the Transvaal. But here again we
are face to face with home sentiment. The Liberals
made a party cry of this yellow-labour question, and the
Government which had been unable to solve the black
problem seemed to have pulled a house about their ears
when they, with a view to the prosperity of the Transvaal,
became the importers of Chinese. The history of the

92 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
sentiment, which is a factor in the deliberations of
Downing Street, shows curiously enough that the force
of circumstances has " diddled " the Boers. It has
been no far-seeing policy to oust them here, to oust
them there ; the fate of history has been stronger than
our policy, stronger than they. But it is an odd thing
that in the fulness of time the colonist of British ex
traction, the Uitlander, should be taking precisely the
same view of the native question as the Boer has done
from the beginning — a view which led to the great trek,
and ultimately to the great war. It is strange, too, that
our attitude to the blacks and Boers in the Transvaal
to-day, must be the same as the attitude which the
Boers held naturally to the Uitlanders before the war.
If the home sentiment insists upon the equality of the
black and the white man — an equaUty that the South
African colonist, and the Boer too, indignantly denies —
it seems that a place must be found for the lazy, loafing,
contented black in the constitution of the Transvaal,
as a place has been found for him in the constitution
of Cape Colony. And of course a place, and an im
portant place, must be found for the Boer in that
constitution. Are these blacks to have votes ? are we to concede
the colony responsible government ? That is one of
the urgent questions of to-day in the Transvaal. Are
they to have votes ? South Africa says " No," but so did
Mr. Kruger say "No" when votes were demanded at
the sword-point of diplomacy for the Uitlanders. If

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 93
these are to have votes, must not that lead to the abdi
cation of the British white man? a greater trek — the
abandonment of the Transvaal as an English colony?
It is easy to ask questions Only time can answer
some of these.

94 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

XIX
Africa is exactly like a dinner-plate turned on its face
and laid on a table. The table is the sea, and the land
runs from it in steep grades to a high flat tableland that
is bossed like an old shield with hUls and kopjes. This
morning, at 6.15, I had my cup of coffee lying at the
open window of my bedroom on the car, looking at a
blue sky above, shading to a whiter blue at the horizon,
the horizon a tumbled ridge of brown and purple kopjes,
some of them high, and with a thirty-ton coal-waggon
in the immediate foreground. The train was standing
stUl at Nervals Pont station, which is the lasb station
in Cape Colony on the line to Johannesburg, and the
Orange River is just a little way north of the station.
The picture is a characteristic one. The sky, always
beautiful, monopolizing the eye; the bare and stony
veldt and distant kopjes — the stone cairns of crea
tion — and a coal-waggon under one's nose to represent
the mineral wealth of South Africa. Nervals Pont, if
I remember aright, has left its name on the page of
history. There were English graves to be seen here
and at Springfontein, where we waited an hour for the
East London train. It was at Nervals Pont that the
Boers wrecked the bridge over the Orange River, and

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 95
at Springfontein that Gatacre, after a bad reverse at
Stormberg, again met disaster face to face. The graves
mark these incidents. But the history of the war is
written, and my object is to sketch some phases of
myself in these sad surroundings, and here only to
record a sigh.
We are over the Orange River — not like most of the
rivers I have seen, arid watercourses where torrents
race after a shower — and in the Orange River Colony.
There are still kopje warts on the face of South Africa,
but on the whole the land is flatter here ; there are more
trees to be seen, more sheep on the land, and farming
seems to be pursued with more success here than
further south. In the morning we ran alongside some
deep dongas, which are, I take it, spruits in cuttings
which must have formed natural trenches when the
whole of the hUls were puffing with rifle-smoke and the
" ping " of the bullets sang in the air. That is one
thing the war has done — it has put the first layer of
interesting history upon a land barren and unlighted in
that respect before. What is the next layer to be ?
Will peace bring plenty ? What, in such a cUmate, is
wanting to abundance ? It would seem that there are
these things wanted — water, capital, and men. After a
little rain the veldt blossoms like 3, garden. Where
a farmer has set up a little American windmill and pumps
water from the deep cistern of the rocks and irrigates
his fields, there are deep waving crops of barley, there are
pleasant garden patches. The willows grow pendulous

96 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
branches over the watercourse. The water, then, is
there at their feet, as the gold was in the Witwaters
rand ; they have only to harness the wind to pump it
for them, and the dry karoo becomes a fertile farm.
It is the sun and the climate which all praise. It is
the empty water-arteries which leave the land without
life. Where these flow there is an oasis. But it wants
the real "divining rod" money to find the water, and
to harness the wind to the pumping-piston. But capital
in South Africa does not take country walks ; it rushes
to places where it can dabble its hand in gold and
diamonds. It may be no misfortune that it goes in that
direction, but it is a misfortune that the money-courses
which flow over the land, and which would enrich the
farms, are as dry as the water-courses. " I have watered
thee with my foot," if I remember aright, is a scripture
phrase referring to the way in which, in Egypt, the
agriculturist in the old days, by tramping on a little dam,
allowed the water which it held up to flow over the land,
on which anon the rice should grow. Cape Colony and
the Orange River Colony require to be watered by the
hand — that is, the hand that finds its way to the pocket.
The day in the Orange River Colony on that train
journey was monotonous above, below ; flat lands and
high sunshine. But even with all this, which persuades
to weariness, this pleasant journey (we have had excel
lent cooking, fresh strawberries, and pleasant chat aU
the way) will be all too soon over. To-morrow we shaU
be in Johannesburg.

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 97

XX
The colonies are a fine school. Perhaps it is only the
most apt scholars that go there. What takes most men
to the smaU end of the wedge of civUization is a spirit
of enterprise, and that spirit is the making of a man and
of a country. There is something, even the spirit of
unrest, in the province which makes for progress. But
although, perhaps, excellent pupils go, the colonies do
good educational work on them. The men I have
hitherto met are abreast of the times. They have not
drunk of the deep wells of history, they are not scholars,
but they are alert men full of knowledge of the land
of their adoption, and with more knowledge of the move
ments of affairs at home than the average Englishman
who is mixed up in these affairs. I met men here who
have shrewder knowledge of the fiscal policy than most
of the newspaper-fed folk at home. There is a spright-
Uness about their knowledge which pleases after the
solid stodgy information of our own people.
' Tact clinches the bargain.
Sails out of the bay, •
Gets the vote in the Senate
Spite of Webster and Clay."
The pioneer — the South African — ^has resource, which
is a kind of tact. It is the same quality, only " rough
hewn." This is a land which requires respurce; it
H

98 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
requires humouring. But it requires more ; it requires
labour. Rightly looked at, the black man is the best
asset of the country. But they have been and are being
spoiled. They are spoiled by their " slave " wives. They
were spoUed by the Government during the war, who
gave them wages of £4 a month, while before they had
only earned £1 10s. in the same period, and whUe at
the same time the Boers who employed them on simUar
services gave them nothing but hard words and harsh
blows. That has spoiled the labour market. But the
missionaries, you are told on all hands, have done the
same thing. To teach the black that he is as good as
the white, is to veneer the solid blackness of sin with
the specious veneer of cunning. It is a little sad
that the making of men half Christians seems to spoil
them as men. It is a melancholy proverb of advice
to those wanting servants, but one that is freely given,
" Don't take a mission boy."
But, as we have seen, to get the labour you must
have some means of making the black work ; persuasion
in such a case is like water on a duck's back — it runs off.
Wages, the fear of poverty, the hope of gain, wUl per
suade a man to work if he is white, but the Kaffir only
labours for a little while, and then he will " go and sit,"
as he puts it. As if sitting was what he was put in the
world for ! There are many white men and Boers who
would, as we have seen, get the asset realized by com
pulsion. Others, more mealy-mouthed, shrink from the
word, and say we must find some way of taxing the black

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 99
man; and if the inducement of wages in front won't
persuade him, this vis a tergo will make him get up and
do — for to be up and doing is to be his salvation, as
well as the salvation of the country.
There are, of course, the two views : one, that the
black is an animal, a good-humoured animal on the
whole, who deserves to be well treated, like your horse,
and who requires to be ridden with a bit and a rein. This
view may be mistaken, but it is not vindictive. These
people, although they would make him work, would treat
him well; and they say, further, that in this state of
subjection the native is happier and better than in any
other. They thrive on compulsion. Liberty is a boon
they only abuse. The roads at the Cape were made, as we
saw, by convict labour. There are one thousand natives
employed at De Beers' mine who are convicts hired by
the company from the Government, and these convict
labourers, I am assured, are as sleek and as happy,
sleeker, happier, and better, than the unconvicted labourer
beside them. Is this slavery ? What, it seems, ought to
happen is to convict the black race and make it work.
WhUe speaking of De Beers, we passed Jaggersfontein
the other day, within twelve miles of the rich diamond-
mine where very white stones — perhaps the best on the
market — are found. The largest diamond in the world was
found at this mine.^ It was, when cut, four times the
' This was true when it was written. The " Excelsior " diamond of
the Jaggersfontein mine was 970 carats. But on January 26, 1905, a
diamond was found in the Premier mine which is 4J inches by 2J inches,
and is 3032 carats.

100 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
size of the Koh-i-noor. It was so large that there was no
market for it. It was held by the company for years, and
ultimately this mountain of light had to be cut in two.
But to return to the labour question. How does it go
in America? They have abolished slaverj'-; but now,
without admitting their mistake, they have got vagrancy
laws in the Southern States, and any offence coming
within the vague term "vagrancy" makes the black
liable to conviction ; and when convicted, he is hired out
just as the black convicts in South Africa are to the
De Beers Company. It is odd that a country has to get
its labour through the prison door ; but we have the fact
that the country requires muscular labour, and there is a
chance for statesmanship to point out how it is to be pro
cured. If he proposes a hut-tax on the women's huts to
prevent polygamy with its wife-labour, in a measure inter
fering with the liberty of the subject, by all means try that.
If he prefers to adopt wide vagrancy laws, and to make these
the means of a full labour market, again by aU means.
But I said there were two views. I have set out one.
The other is held vehemently by many. To these the
gold of the Rand is the curse of the country. To these
the whole country is run — and Lord Milner is a willing
administrator — in the interest of the mine-owners. " The
Rand Lords," as they are contemptuously called, want
cheap labour, for the reason that the more they pay in
wages the less there is to divide in dividends. It is these
men who would grind out the lives of the poor easy-going
blacks, for the last sixpence of their ten per cent. This

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 101
is the whole conspiracy against the down-trodden Kaffir,
and the Government is the cat's-paw of the mine-owners,
and the means to their plethoric aggrandisement. Now,
as in the case of shields, there are two sides to most
things ; and even in these headlong assertions there is a
grain of truth ; it is true that it is so small an assay that
it is not worth working. But we may admit that the
mine-owners want cheap labour. And that is not a sin,
otherwise Bright and Cobden, who repealed the Corn
Laws with a view to cheap labour for manufacturers,
were the chief of sinners. But there is one solid fact
which it wiU not do to overlook, and it is this : That the
country without the mines cannot pay its way ; that the
mines can only be worked by means of cheap labour;
and that the prosperity of the country, at present and for
many years to come, must depend on the mines being
worked. It is, no doubt, possible that in time the land
of South Africa may come into wide cultivation. It is
possible that the present prosperity of the Rand may be
only a temporary coruscation of prosperity, but in the
mean time, it is the mines that are making "the mare
to go ; " it is the mines that are the beating commercial
heart of the continent, and to do anything to hinder or
to frustrate that great industry, would be equivalent
to national suicide.
I do not despair of the future of the land, although
some experiments in the wholesome direction of land
settlement have been pre-eminently failures. I hope that
a time wUl soon come when labour wUl be found for the

102 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
fields, and the whole country may be made as good farm
ing land as that of the " conquered territory." I regret
that at the present time mealies have to be imported. I
hope to see cotton grown in many parts of our barren
colonies. I believe that sugar and tobacco and fruit, and
other things, may soon bulk with feathers and goats'
hair amongst the colonial exports ; and that not so much
because these wiU contribute towards the wealth of the
colony, as because they wUl show that a population of
whites, assisted by black labour, has taken root in the
soU. It is white men that is the crop I desire to see
growing in the colony. But, however exceUent it is to
have a hope for the future, we must lay hold of that
future by the handle of the present. And to-day we
must work the mines, and to work them we must have
hands. It is to get these that is the problem of to-day.
I spoke of the black race as an asset. But the climate of
that basking continent is another asset. In many places
you have only to " tickle the land with the hoe, and it
laughs in the harvest." You throw away a peach-stone,
and up comes a tree. But the land wants to be fed and
watered, and it wUl, in its slow turn, feed and clothe half
the world. Here is a statistic which speaks a volume for
the climate. The possible sunshine for every day in the
year, between sunrise and sunset, being taken at 100, the
high plateau of Africa enjoys 95 per cent, of the possible
sunshine. But that was not meant merely for basking
in, for the air is so fresh in that high land that it
whispers " work."

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 103

XXI
But there is something more required from wise states
manship. Fiscal policy is much thought of and spoken
of to-day, and it is truly said that South Africa gives the
mother country a preference of 2 per cent. That is
true, and from that small nucleus I hope a treaty of
commerce, which may ultimately result in free trade
between England and South Africa, may result. There
is no inter-state tariff in the United States, and to that
fact is in part due the colossal prosperity that America
has achieved. There is no inter-colonial tariff in South
Africa. There ought to be no tariff between Britain
and the colonies I am speaking of. That way prosperity
lies. But, even pending that, I think a commercial
treaty with mutual preferences, or, better still, mutual
free trade, is well advised. There is no rivafry here;
South Africa does not manufacture; we do not produce
gold or diamonds, or ostrich feathers, or copper, or mealies.
But in this conclusion there is another aspect worth a
glance. We know how, in the controversy as to fiscal
reform which has waxed and waned in Britain during the
last year and a half, the curious process of dumping
has been brought much into evidence. The great trade

104 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
combines of Germany and America have been a means to
an undesirable end, and it is quite possible that these
great combinations wlU in the future have to be dealt
with by the strong hand of the law. But here in South
Africa there is a curious indication of similar tendencies.
We do not call it a " combine," we call it a " conference,"
and the conference of steamship owners have agreed on
freights which are certainly unfavourable to the colonies,
and equally unfavourable to the mother country. This
matter requires to be looked into. Take a case. Goods
which had been manufactured in England had to be sent
to South Africa. The freight from Southampton was so
high that the goods were sent to Hamburg and were
put on board the very same British steamer which would
have carried them from Southampton, and the man who
paid the freight made money by sending them via, Ham
burg. How can English producers compete with German
producers of the same goods under these circumstances ?
There is another evil to be complained of. Shippers get
a rebate from the shipping company, and unless they
receive the rebate, they have to charge their customers
and the ultimate consumer higher than their rivals in
the trade who get their goods from Germany by German
lines of steamers. Therefore it is obvious they must take
the rebate. But the rebate is not paid to them until
the end of the year, and if they cease to ship their goods
by the rebate-giving line, they lose the rebate. This is
a fine specimen of the liberty of the subject. I am
not sure that the Lobola works greater hardships. The

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 105
government has its goods carried to South Africa for about
16s. a ton, while the private shipper has to pay 30s. to 35s.
a ton. There is a law in England against undue pre
ferences by raUway companies. Under the same circum
stances a railway company cannot prefer trader A to
trader B, either in the matter of rates or facilities, and if
it does prefer or prejudice one to the other, the Railway
Commissioners interfere. But of course that only refers
to traders in England. Is it not much worse that British
ships should prefer German merchants and German
shippers to Englishmen ? There is a very strong opinion
in South Africa that the conference or combine must
be broken up. But, whUe the public complain of the
ships, they also complain of the raUways — raUway rates
are high. The wealth of South Africa is mainly in the
heart of the country, far from the seaboard. Gold must
reach the sea, food must come from the sea by raU, and
the various colonies have been in the habit of exacting
toUs for their revenue purposes which have made the
consumers in the interior "pay through the nose." I
suppose Johannesburg is the dearest town in the world.
The smaUest coin there is the "tickey," or threepenny-
bit, and that will buy nothing. But I see there is to
be a conference as to the whole question of railways
«
within a very short time. 1 hope something may come
of it. To my thinking, the railways are the way to
imperial federation.

106 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT

XXII
That South Africa is, or may be, a white man's country
is a dream — a delusion. The only chance it has of
becoming a white man's country, and then only in the
remote future, is by becoming first of all a yellow man's
compound. It is possible that if we had treated the
natives as North American colonists treated the Red
Indians, if we had warred with the sword and with the
more potent "fire water," the race coming in deadly
contact with us might in time have made the "great
trek," and have disappeared as the natives of North
America are doing ; and when we had kUled these black
heirs to the country the inheritance would have been
ours. But that has not been our heartless policy. Indeed,
we have passed strict liquor laws, notwithstanding our
tall talk about the liberty of the subject, which ought
to include a liberty to get drunk; and we give long
terms of imprisonment to any one supplying drink to
a native. We also, as I pointed out, punish natives
with death when they are convicted of assaults on white
women — another curious indication of the equal scales of
justice when weighing black and white crimes. There is
no chance, then, that the entire race, which is at present

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 107
represented by something like six million blacks south
of the Zambesi, wUl die out. Death will not solve the
problem for us. Indeed, if it did, as we have seen, we
would be in a worse plight than before, for without the
blacks as servants. South Africa cannot in any sense be
the country of the white man.
But we indicated that it might become our country
through the yellow compound. It is well to recognize
the fact that the mines are the heart, at present, of our
South African empire. It is strange that a country like
South Africa should not be self-supporting ; that it has
to buy its fiour from Australia and its mealies in South
America. With its wide veldt, it stiU imports much ot
its meat ; and although the land is full of fruit, it has
to rely for jam and onions and eggs on other countries.
But the industry of this group of colonies is mining.
There is gold, there is coal, there is copper, there is tin,
there are diamonds, and it is upon these deep industries
that the country depends ; it is with the products of these
that it must pay its way. My own impression, as I have
said, is that as time goes on these colonies wUl become
more independent, that its lazy farms and lazy farmers
may do more for its markets; but in the mean time it
is the heart of the mines' beat — the stamps — that sends
the blood of being fast or slow through the whole body
of the colony.
Mr. Chamberlain, speaking in the House of Commons
in 1903, after his visit to our South African colonies, said,
" The whole of South Africa at the present time is more or

108 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
less dependent for its future prosperity on the Transvaal.
In the Transvaal there has been in the course of a few
years a gigantic development of a great industry, as the
result of which tens of thousands of British workmen
have left their own country and permanently established
themselves there. Great towns have sprung up out of
the veldt with great industries, which are contingent on
the main industry, and the men who by their skUl,
capital, industry, and knowledge — not for philanthropic
motives, but with the idea of filling thefr pockets — have
brought this about are not to be treated as pariahs, and
as if they were doing what was not for the advantage
of the country. That is an absurd position to take up,
and in future do let us leave the mine-owners alone, and
let us treat them with the same kindly respect with
which we treat coal-owners, cotton-spinners, bankers, and
financiers, or anybody else engaged in using his brains
to make his fortune."
But that this excellent advice was not followed it
is unnecessary to say. People who live in big houses.
South African millionaires who make large profits, are
fafr game for the cheap writer, and there is no close
season. Thus a competent writer for the Daily Chronicle
joins the hunt. It is his view, after a cursory visit to
South Africa, that "if ever there was a white man's
country, it (South Africa) is the one." This general
conclusion seems to have been arrived at because Mr.
Naylor was convinced that there was no necessity for
yellow labour in the mines, that unskilled white labour

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 109
could supply all their wants, and he seems to have been
led to this conclusion by Mr. Creswell's experiment at
the VUlage Main Reef mine — an experiment which, by
the way, ended in failure. Mr. Creswell's experiment was
to secure the labour of starving whites by offering them
very much the same wages as he was paying to the
blacks. But Mr. Naylor's own statements account for
the deplorable faUure. He says these unskiUed whites
earned about 9s. a day — that is, even allowing that the
unskiUed whites, a weedy starving lot, worked at the rate
of 360 days in the year, an earning of less than £14 a
month. But Mr, Naylor, in another page of his pam
phlet, instructively shows that the cost of living for a
famUy^man with a wife and three chUdren — amounts
to £24 10s. a month. And he leaves us to solve the
problem how the white man is to make these distant
ends meet. It was an interesting experiment, like that
of reducing the horse or the camel — was it by degrees ?
— to a diet of one straw a day. The result might have
been foretold.
But from his own figures there is at present only
a difference, between the cost of getting the gold and
the value of a ton of gold when got, of 10s. By sub
stituting white labour, costing, as we know it does, 20s.
a day, or, even at his own figure, 10s. a day, for black
labour at 2s. to 3s. a day, the average cost of getting
a ton would be increased by 10s. Id. a ton. But the
average dividend has fallen below 10s. per ton crushed,
so that unskUled white labour would put an end to any

110 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
return upon the capital invested, because it would wipe
out all possible profit. Under these circumstances it is
not to be wondered at that most people, who have
informed themselves, have come to the conclusion that
" under the present conditions and cost of living the use
of white unskilled labour is economically impossible."
But that it may be possible to make this land more
of a white man's country, if service labour can be had
from China for the mines, is certain. Indeed, it is being
accomplished at the present time. There are 6500
stamps at work to-day. The confident hope of the
people in the Rand is that there wiU be 16,000 or
17,000 stamps at work in five or six years. For every
100 stamps crushing, approximately 175 white and 1300
coloured men are employed. If the 17,000 stamps can
be made to crush, there would be direct employment
for 220,000 unskiUed workmen — black or yeUow — and
for 18,000 skilled white men. Who, then, is freezing
out white labour — those who desire to have yeUow
hands at work, or those who desire that the baited
Rand lords should not make any profits out of their
industry ? The question for aU sane men — and poli
ticians in lucid intervals — is, what is best for the
country ? Those who have seen it and studied the
matter on the spot have only one answer to that
question — the mines must be worked. Muscular labour
must be procured. White unskilled labour is impossible.
Black unskilled labour is deficient. Under these circum
stances, there was nothing for it but the course which

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 111
was, we think, wisely and humanely taken. It is there
fore, as we said, through the employment of the Chinese
that a hope is held out to the country that it may
become more and more a rich colony and white man's
land; but to secm-e this we must get the heart of the
country — the mines — to beat with the throbs of the
crushers, and to do so we must supply these with
labour — if not black, then, in the name of necessity,
yeUow.^ ' I see that Mr. Quinn, at one time a stubborn opponent of the em
ployment of Chinese labour, has renounced for the future all opposition
to Chinese labour. While refusing to apologize for his attitude in the
pastjhe said the situation had now changed. " The position lis this : —
The Ordinance is passed, the Chinese are here, and the people seem
contented. The question, therefore, is finished." By no means unwise
acquiescence. Mr. Wills, the newly elected member for North Dorset, is
not so wise. He spoke of the Chinese Ordinance " with which the country
was disgusted." But as these words were uttered just after his election,
perhaps he was a little giddy with his victory.

112 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

XXIII
To be in South Africa and not see a steinbok and other
kinds of antelopes would be ridiculous. So a little way
south of Bloemfontein we came in sight of a great herd,
which scampered away from the train, not without some
frisky jumps ; and once when we had passed Bloem
fontein, a town which radiates in streets on the flat
red earth from the market-place in straight lines, we
saw some more of these bucks, but they continued to
graze peacefully upon the yeUow hair which they call
grass. The capital of the Orange River Colony did not
impress me. What can on a hot and airless summer
afternoon ? It seems, with its 33,000 inhabitants, to be
prosperous for a South African town. South of it we
saw a cemetery, where the many who died of enteric
were buried. That was a great battle. It occurred after
the relief of Kimberley and the battle of Paardeburg —
the battle people spoke of with a sigh, as needless blood
shed : — what do they think of the carnage at 203 Metre
HUl ? — and the battle with disease raged in hospitals for
weeks, and our casualties numbered some 5000. It was
in this connection that some philanthropists attacked our

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 113
hospital system ; but they did not seem to remember that
we were at war — and that makes a difference.
A few miles north of Bloemfontein we came on the
first thing that could without a solecism be called a wood.
It was the first make-believe of a forest I had seen, and
the green of those native trees gave my eyes a holiday
after the two days' hard work with stones and rocks and
veldt. The little forest had a few scouts and skirmishers
clambering up the sides of a kopje, and the forest
set me thinking. 1 was going in Lord Roberts' footsteps
when he marched north from Bloemfontein, and possibly
my thoughts were going in a beaten path too. But this was
the direction. The Government have miles of railway,
and the sleepers of a railway do not last for ever.
Further, if the country is to be developed, there must be
many more mUes of raUway made, and for these again
sleepers wUl be wanted. The gauge of South African
raUways is only 3 feet 6 inches, and before long it wiU
have to be changed to 4 feet 8^ inches, if they are to attain
the speed of the hare instead of the deliberateness of the
tortoise. The white ant — we have seen millions of their
mud and sand castles to-day, some of them, however,
had been wrecked and were in ruins, owing to the visit of
the ant-bear, which, I believe, is more like a pig with a
long snout than a bear — wUl attack any but the hardest
wood, and the sleepers in use are made of red wood, or
jarrah wood, and have to be imported from Australia.
Why on earth these, or some of them, should not grow
here, I cannot conceive. In many parts where the soil is
I

114 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
scanty and the stones are prominent, I have^seen fir trees
grow with tenacious life. The land for miles is idle as
the native. Why is not the Government, like Sir Walter
Scott, " aye putting in trees ? " They will, as his servant
told him, be " growing when you're sleeping," and even
that might be said with some justice of our untiring
Government. History proves that governments some
times sleep. But here they have a market for their wood
in their own hands. Here the lazy lands, even the
pauper kopjes, might be put to work and made to grow
trees. Surely the experiment is worth trying. The blue
gum grows everywhere, but better trees than that can be
made at home here. But I hold out to myself ulterior
advantages. It has always been the view of the common
people that trees produce rain. Now, there is more than
meets the eye in this common belief. It is obvious to
any one who goes in a motor along an English road that
trees keep the road damp. It is under these that you
have to look out for skids. Now, that is usuaUy one of
the things that is wanted in South Africa. Its evU plight
is that most of the rain that falls is evaporated. If in the
neighbourhood of Johannesburg you collect water in a
reservoir, the whole rainfall in the year being about 30
inches, you must be prepared for an evaporation from the
surface of your reservoir of 62 inches in the year. New
forests planted would be reservoirs of moisture, would
hold it up, prevent evaporation, pay the water out slowly,
and the dry rivers, instead of their passionate floods and
summer-dry courses, might have water in them. This

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 115
would be irrigation on a grand scale. So far, then, we
are on safe ground in our advocacy of forests ; but how
do trees, besides keeping rain when it falls, produce rain ?
That, as I have said, is a belief; is there any truth
in it? Now, Africa lies between the Indian Ocean and the
Atlantic. There must be enough of moisture floating over
the dry continent to make rainfall enough to turn Africa
into a meadow. Now, it is not beyond the power of
science some day to produce conditions which might lead
to a deposit of rain. If I gather Sir Oliver Lodge's opinion
aright, he thinks that showers may be achieved. But is
it not possible that forests may achieve them ? May not
these in future be the witch-doctors of a desert land?
I am speculating at large; but if the leaves in their
chemical action upon their environment produce, as some
say they do, Rontgen rays, and Rontgen rays produce the
nuclei which are necessary to condensation — if there were
forests, is it not possible that a thirsty Africa might " quaff
the sky " ? I have seen hundreds of places in this wide land
which were flt for nothing else, where trees would grow,
where in time they would produce a richer soU and stay
the soil which the torrents at present sweep away, and if
at the same time they could bring down a gentle dew
from heaven, they would be a blessing to all arid places.
At any rate, more planting of trees is wanted.
North of Bloemfontein and on the way to Kroonstadt
and Vereeniging the country is flat and more like some
EngUsh counties than anything I have seen in Africa.

116 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
The grass is greener, and we have seen hundreds of acres
ploughed. They were ploughing in one place with a team
of twelve oxen instead of with a steam-plough, which in
these flat, unfenced lands, which stretch mUes and leagues
to a flat horizon, would do excellent work. But steam-
ploughs mean capital, and that is as scarce in Africa as
rain. The day has been a hot one, even in the saloon, with
all the windows open and such air as the sedate train
made by its grunting progress. But even these windows
had a drawback, and admitted one of the ten plagues —
dust. Indeed, in the bright sunshine we saw many of
these gyrating sand spouts walk the earth and scale the
heavens Uke smoke ; and some of these came and rested
with us. To-day, on the fatter lands, we have seen many
cattle, many sheep, and many goats. I asked if they had
sheep-dogs, and found, to my regret, that there were none ;
but I found that genius is stiU recognized in the land, for
a goat with its wise beard is put in front of the " sUly
sheep " to lead them home. I think the goat deserves a
better name than he has got, especiaUy when I remember
that goat's-hair is one of the few valuable exports of this
part of the empire.
But the hot dust-powdered day came to an end
finely, as its predecessor had done, although the hiUs
were not here to bedaub the evening with rich colours ;
the hUls were not here to give us their moon-rises in
succession behind successive kopjes. StUl, the evening
and the coldness, which springs upon you like a cruel

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 117
beast on its prey, came quickly, and the electric lights
were switched on, and we were at home in the car, and
another meal came in the long procession which strutted
through these days. I cannot let you into the car,
or teU you anything of the kindness and courtesy of
our host and hostess. No, nor of the excellent talk
which let bare excoriated mUes of route slip by us
without molesting us. AU that was pleasant, but I
cannot make a bit of a book out of such exceUent
friends. To bed, to wake up just outside the gold
capital in a morning, Uke aU the others, sunny and
sweet.

118 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT

XXIV
Johannesbueg. The gold-rush only took place in 1886,
although gold had been gotten from the close hands
of the rocks before that, and to-day, eighteen years
after the " boom " (I hate the word, although it is
indigenous here), there is a city on the bare veldt and
high ridge, 6000 feet above the sea — nearly as high
as the Eigi Kulm — and containing from 150 to 200,000
black and white inhabitants, all greedy for gold, all
living directly or indirectly by the industry which
brings those hidden arteries, which yield the blood of
commerce, to the dazzled light of day. We took some
fifty-six hours on the journey from Cape Town, wasting
a pleasant balmy hour at Kroonstadt, where we felt it
possible to peep into the bowels of the earth, for here
there are coal-pits. Having time at the Sand River to
walk from the train — while it made one of its numerous
pauses — to see the grave of and monument to Major
Seymour, the story of whose death many will remem
ber, we went. The monuments are prominent, not
far from the place where he fell; but the evening
seemed more fuU of prayer than the white slabs and
crosses with their frigid record. When our curiosity

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 119
had paid its tribute, and the train had had a rest, we
went on through the darkening night to the Vaal River,
and in the morning into Johannesburg, through such
suburbs as locations and compounds make for a town,
which is itself mostly suburbs. All the white heaps
of "tailings" to the eastern side of the town, as far
as Simmer and Jacks, were unendingly prominent in the
sunUght, These great heaps are what are called " tips "
at home. They are the debris of the rocks after they
have been raked and sifted by the amalgam process
and the cyanide process and what not, for the gold
which nature had laid away in her safe. Even these
heaps, it is said, have gold in them, and will at the
magic word of science be forced to give it up. We
passed through Germiston and Jeppe, and so through
the town of suburbs — for Johannesburg sprawls — into
the Park Station.
We caU people nice when they are nice to us. " If
she is not fair to me, what care I how fair she be."
Now here, kindness, which had carried us all the way
up to Johannesburg in luxury's lap, met us with a
carriage, and we were driven to a beautiful suburb,
instead of having to put up in a close hotel in the hot
dusty town, which would not have been nearly so nice
as the beautiful house, standing in gatden-grounds, above
woods of many different kinds of gum and wattle and
fir trees, and looking away to the north, where the
Magaliesberg mountains make a rampant horizon.
Oh, what a bath is after a long journey and an early

120 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
rise! And a bath in water, costing as it does in Johannes
burg from seven to ten shilUngs for a thousand gallons.
I felt as if I was bathing in gold. But why not ? As
we have seen, every one here lives on gold, and just as
I arrived there had been a steady rise in shares — not a
bounding leap, which often overleaps itself and falls on
the other side, but a good promising rise. It is this
which has made the Rand in good humour, and it is
due in part, at least, to Chinese labour. They expect to
have twenty-four thousand Chinamen at work before
the end of the year ; and so far they find that they
have worked weU, although, as yet, only learners.
It is everything to arrive in a country at the period
of a crisis ; and there are always crises in South Africa.
When I got to Johannesburg, although the faces were
broad with smiles to greet prosperity, and not long
as they had been since the abortive boom after the
war, I got there when a new war was breaking out.
Don't let me exaggerate, party politics was being
inaugurated. The air was full of the electricity which
makes for thunder.
A promise had been made at home that the days
of Crown Colony government were numbered, and that
a representative government would be given to the
Transvaal. Where even half a dozen Englishmen are
gathered together, there are the seeds of free institu
tions. It is the hereditary disease of the Anglo-Saxon.
That promise having been given, now came the tug of
war. That the representative government would include

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 121
a black vote as it does at the Cape, was not to be
thought of. Indeed, no white man in the Transvaal
would stand such a franchise. If it had been mooted,
revolution would have raised its ugly head. What was
in the dusty air of Johannesburg was a question between
responsible and representative government. Now the
two words, as opposed, sound foreign to EngUsh ears,
but their meaning in these baby parties was weU defined.
The representative government which one party was
formed to further, meant not the government we enjoy
(1 am not meaning to be ironical) in England, but an
elective body which the executive government was stiU
in the hands of — let us caU it, for short, the Crown.
This was a halfway house policy, because in the view
of many it would be disastrous to finish the democratic
journey. The Progressive party — a party composed of
able, clear-seeing men — were in favour of this as, at least,
a temporary expedient. The other party in the Uttle
state desired responsible government (that is in effect
what we have in England), and what we, following the
nomenclature of MUl and Hare, caU representative
government. Here, then, was a pretty quarrel. The
one desired to protect the colony by the maintenance
of the meddling fingers of Downing Street, the other
said no, let us govern ourselves. The cross cleavage was
curious and wonderful. The Progressives were in favour
of the tentative government idea. The Responsibles
were in favour of the non-intervention of the home
government in colonial affairs. But the Progressives

122 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
had, to a man, been in favour of the introduction of
Chinese labour, which was effected for them by the
home government, but had been questioned, much to
the disgust of aU South Africa, by the home opposition.
The responsible government party said, with some sense,
look how, in relation to our local labour question, we
were made the football of parties at home. One party
there, to get power, would deprive us of the labour
which is essential to our well-being, to our existence.
Are we to tolerate such " finger in the pie " interference ?
No. WhUe the Progressives, who were, as we have said,
thoroughly in favour of Chinese labour, feared the result
of a popular vote, which might be more than half Boer.
Time was bringing its revenges. We had asked votes
from the Boers, and been refused because they feared
we would outvote them. Now the cautious Progres
sives refused to put all the power in the hands of an
electorate — less than haK British — which might govern
Johannesburg. Here, then, as we see, party poUtics
were growing with the precipitancy and the proUficacy
of fruit and vegetables round Johannesburg, The names
of those who associated themselves with the Progressive
party were mostly English. The names of those who
associated themselves with the full measure of Responsible
government were for the most part Jewish or colonial
names. Now, that made me think that this was the old
buried feud which was walking the earth again. Here
were Boers and Uitlanders, the former saying, "Let us

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 123
govern ourselves, let us have votes ; " the latter saying,
"No; we want justice, we want English protection,
otherwise we shall be put upon as we were before
the war."
Now, I say, that was the interesting juncture at
which I arrived. Not, remember, that the Progressives
desired to shut the door upon responsible government.
It would, in their view, come in time, when they would
have an indubitable majority. It was well to go slow
at first. I may be rash in expressing an opinion, but
I think that the conferring of the most extended rights
of self-government ought not to be a matter of a few
months, but of experimental years. If we mean to keep
South Africa, we must remain the supreme people. Are
we, then, to hand over the modern sceptre, the vote, which
may oust us from supremacy, to our enemies ? It is still
the question who shaU have the upper hand.
During my stay in South Africa, there was a good
deal of sporadic talk about this matter of the future
constitution. Some of the talk, for example, much that
was said at Brandford, was irresponsible enough. The
Orange River colonists are said to be well affected to
the English, and they say it themselves, whatever that
is worth, but at Brandford they showed their claws in
some barbed language — if that is not a'hopelessly mixed
metaphor, like that of a recent South African orator,
who said of some enactment which it was proposed to
pass into law, "You are laying the last straw on the
camel's back, and by that means you will kUl the goose

124 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
that lays the golden eggs." I don't wonder that he
finished up with the golden eggs if he was a Johannes
burger. But it was the Boer Conference at Brandford
on the 3rd that I was speaking of, and there, according
to the newspaper headline. General Hertzog was " out
spoken." That is mild for a headline. He accused the
Government of a breach of faith, and repeated it. It
always sounds worse if you repeat it. Now, what it
turns out to be, from the general's own showing, was
this — that Lords .Kitchener and Milner both promised
self-government to the Orange River Colony, on simUar
Unes to that granted to Cape Colony. But the breach
of faith is this — that self-government, in the case of
the Free State, " wiU only be a matter of a few years,"
and now the Government propose to give representative
government to the Transvaal before they have given
self-government to the Orange River Colony. There
seems to have been no promise as to the order in which
these boons were to be conferred, although there may
have been an impression on the part of some of the
soft-minded Orange River Boers that they were to have
home rule first. This, then, is the shadow breach of
faith of which we are accused. General Hertzog has not
studied logic, whatever his achievements in the cultiva
tion of Billingsgate may have been. But some of these
speeches — containing the demand that Dutch should be
the language in South Africa, and other exorbitant claims
— might lead people at home to believe that the country
was on the edge of revolution. But most of these

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 125
speeches give a quite mistaken impression of the real
ideas of the people. The meeting in question was the
clever result of the tactics of a newspaper, which is more
set on advertisement than rebelUon, and the speeches
were " sound and fury." On the whole, I came to the
conclusion that a good deal of talk was as wholesome
for the people as the blowing off of steam is for an
engine. It is strident, but saves a burst. Suppressed
volcanoes mean earthquakes. There is, however, a party
that desires to nip sedition in the bud. They are a Uttle
previous, and begin to pinch before there is any bud or
any spring to encourage it. To these a saying of Mr.
Kruger (I stUl give him Mr., for he was not such a
great man that he could shed it) might be recommended.
He was told that there was smouldering revolution in
the land, and he said quite wisely, "You cannot chop
off the head of a tortoise until it sticks it out." When
it did stick it out, as we know, he proved himself quite
equal to the chopping of it, as the Reform Committee
knows to its cost.
But the responsible government movement, while
it might lead to serious results, is not revolution, but is
only half-hearted poUtics. There are many who believe
that those who have adopted this doctrine as a platform
are not the weighty men they think themselves. But
it is only time weighs men.
The Transvaal is now, therefore, in the throes of
constitution-making, although the solution of the problem
must be postponed for many months. The Progressive

126 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
Association have been waving the Union Jack, always a
profitable but sometimes an irritating operation. Their
programme is " To maintain the British Flag," and even
the Responsible Government Association takes off its hat
and is in favour of the British Flag. The second plank
in their platform is the recognition that aU voters shall
have the same privUeges, and their votes the same value.
Here again the rival associations agree, and when these
two agree their unanimity is amazing. The next thing
they agree upon is "a firm and just native and Asiatic
policy in accordance with South African ideas." Here
the two associations stand shoulder to shoulder against
Exeter Hall. They next are both supporters of any
measure to make South Africa a white man's home.
They both are opposed to interference in the affairs of
the Transvaal by party poUticians elsewhere (Party whips
please copy). But after aU this unanimity, Mr. E. P.
Solomon's association splits from the other on the oiUy
matter in their creeds that has any meaning, although
even here the split is not so significant as might be
supposed. They have to-day a Crown Colony ruled by an able
gentleman who has recently been caUed "the Autocrat
of Sunnyside." But a door has been opened for exit
from that dark closet — a Crown colony. What are they
to have instead of it? The one proposal, as we have
seen, was to have a government in part elected and in
part nominated.^ That the one party desires, and the
' The Progressive party fears that the white population in the

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 127
other rejects. Under that the executive was to be nomi
nated by the Crown, and would have a sufficient pre
ponderance of votes; and under such a constitution
the elected votes might, as the Americans have it,
" play around." But Mr. E. P. Solomon's associa
tion (it is noted that Mr. E. P. Solomon is a brother
of the able and genial Attorney-General and Acting
Governor of the Transvaal) won't have that ; " they
want men elected by the people of the country." But
although they know what they want (which is wisdom),
and hold meetings (which is amusement), they know
they won't get it (which is sense). Mr. Solomon said
he did not for a moment think they were going to
have responsible government at once. So long as Mr.
Alfred Lyttleton was Colonial Secretary, and — he was
sorry to say it — so long as Lord MUner was Governor,
they would not have responsible government. Now,
here it is worth noting that Mr. Solomon seems to have
forgotten " the plank " about party poUtics elsewhere.
What is this pessimistic sentence but a sop to Sir Henry
CampbeU-Bannerman and Company in England ? Is that
the hope of the new South Africa ? If so, it would seem
that South Africa claims some right to influence English
poUtics, but that England is warned not to interfere
with those of South Africa, But I hardly think these
poUticians are serious ; they are " playing around." They
Transvaal may not be placed on an equality as regards their vote. They
point out that if the country is favoured as against the towns, it would
be a reversion to the policy of Kruger, and they desire a redistribution of
seats every four years.

128 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
are getting their names up, which is a very laudable
project. But such as it is, it is a very pretty sham party
fight as it stands.
One is sorry to see that Mr. Solomon has taken up
that stupid instrument " obstruction " as a means to his
end. This is a great infirmity of ignoble poUtics. If, he
said, responsible government was not granted, his party
" would block every measure and withhold supplies until
the home government gave in." If force is not an argu
ment, neither is obstruction a reason. His government
would be " irresponsible " government, which would affect
prejudicially the credit of the Transvaal in Europe at a
time when credit is essential to the prosperity of the
colony.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 129

XXV
Johannesburg as a town surprises and disappoints.
It has been put up in a hurry, and is mostly buUt of
corrugated iron. There are finished buildings, mostly of
stucco, and innumerable shanties. There are wide streets,
but they are aU dusty. Commissioner Street is the main
artery for business. It is here that, in imitation of
America, skyscrapers have been buUt, which domineer
over the town more than the old fort does. I saw when
I arrived that it is a town of suburbs, but there are
thick congested areas where the metal hovels are so close
together that the air cannot get between them. This, I
take it, was the old town of Johaimesburg. Old? Yes,
it is sixteen or seventeen years old. In many places in
Johannesburg there are bare excoriated lands, which are
vacant at present, because greed sterilizes for a time.
Then the roads — every one says that they are an immense
improvement on what they had before. One remembers
what was said of the miUtary roads in Sdbtland —
" If you had seen these roads
Before they were made,
You would hold up your hands
And bless General Wade."
The roads in Johannesburg are in the pre-Wade K

130 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
condition. Some of the suburbs, like Park Town, are
suburbs of palaces, and from some of these, as from the
houses above the poor golf links, the views are as fine as
could be desired, and make the imagination ashamed.
In the evening I had a pleasant walk through this reaUy
fine suburb, and through some of the green tree avenues
of the Sachsenwald, which Ues at its rocky feet. I even
saw the measly menagerie, which is said to boast a Uon,
and which certainly possesses an eland, a giraffe, and
a baboon. I saw, too, a magnificent simset, which Turner
perhaps could have put in permanent colours, but no one
else could have touched with the brush.
No doubt, popiUar faUacies are the raw material of
history, and there are two which I have exploded to-day.
It is said — and there is nothing Uke making generaliza
tions sweeping — that the birds are not song birds in
Africa. This evening, sitting in an aromatic grove of
gum trees, which no doubt was good for its throat, a bird
was discoursing very sweet music in Uqtdd notes just as
the gorgeous darkness all starred, feU on the high plateau.
But there is another faUacy which is afoot. They say
there is no twUight here, but there is. It is not "a
lengthened sweetness long drawn out," as it is some
times in our northern summer days, but there is a short
pleasant evening and an after-glow. The day is punctual
to business hours. " It never comes an hour too soon,
Nor makes too long a day."
I had the impression, however, that the day's shutters

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 131
were put up at the stroke of six, and that the dark fell
like a thunderclap, but there is a distinct and fine
"gloaming," a pleasant compromise between night and
day, and after that comes the "murk," which is finely
mixed with stars.
To-day I went to visit some " claims." They are
not much to look at. The theory of the thing is in
teresting ; well, perhaps not, but instructive — that is
better. The State claims all the gold, and when a
freehold owner of property begins to work for gold,
then the State makes a proclamation. That proclama
tion reserves a certain part (one-tenth part) by agree
ment or " pacht " (pact) with the owner, and gives him,
under the Mynpacht, a half-share of the annual pay
ments for licences, which are paid by those who have
" pegged-out claims." When land is proclaimed under the
present gold law, there is a scramble, and every one
who in the scrimmage pegs out a claim has to pay the
Government for the licence, or leave to work. I am
informed, and beUeve, that this scramble under the " gold
law" for claims has not often led to bloodshed, but it
certainly is a device which looks in that direction. The
Boer Government, seeing the evUs of a system that they
had inaugurated, proposed to have a lottery for the claims,
but the war, which turned over so many leaves of Fate's
book, put an end to that commendable project, and in the
mean time the old law, which allows the pegging of claims
between six in the morning and six at night, and the
jumping of claims already pegged out under the cover of

132 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
night, exists. There is, however, a new gold law in egg,
waiting for the hatching, which proposes to put up the
claims in proclaimed lands to auction, in which case the
longest purse would get the claim, and the Government
and the owner would get more than they do at present.
When a man has got a claim, he need not work it for
gold, but can sit on it so long as he pays the Ucence duty.
And when he works it according to the ordinary custom,
the gold is his, and he can sell the stone that he wins in
getting it, or the water he pumps in his winning opera
tions to any one who will buy. AU this great erudition
I gather from the decision of the Chief Justice of the
Transvaal, in a case in which, if I remember aright, the
Worcester Mining Company were the defendants.
With regard to other intricate questions connected
with the gold law, such as Bavatplatz (even as to the
spelling of it I am doubtful), I must peremptorily decUne
to enter.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 133

XXVI
Politics in the Transvaal aU turn on the pivot of mines.
A new turn was given to these by the words of Lord
Harris, spoken at the meeting of the ConsoUdated Gold
Fields of South Africa, which was held in London on
November 8, 1904. "The Transvaal," he said, "is
emerging from the corrupt and oligarchical administra
tion of the late President Kruger, through the inter
mediate process of Crown Colonial Government, to the
greater freedom of representative and self-government,
not all at once, but by degrees. The mine-owners of
the Rand are owners of large and valuable properties,
and just as in this country great owners of property
recognize that they must undertake great responsi-
biUties, and assist in the administration of the country,
so 1 think this company must realize that it cannot
divest itself of the responsibiUty of' assisting in the
administration of local and even perhaps colonial
affairs. It will probably mean an increase of the staff
in Johannesburg. Time devoted to pubUc duties is
time spent away from the office, and therefore, if office

134 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
work has to be done, there may have to be more men
to do it."
This seems an innocent enough utterance. The men
who in America shirk this pubUc responsibiUty are
abused for their poUtical indolence, and are labelled
Mugwumps. But when Lord Harris suggests that the
officers of a great company who are in a new and emerg
ing country should take an interest in local affairs and
devote some of their time to these. Sir Henry CampbeU-
Bannerman is up in arms, and with some sinister
language tries to besmirch the advice thus temperately
given. His language was rough, but as I did not take a
note of it at the time, and as it has not laid hold of
memory, I wUl not attempt to quote it here. This,
however, is an indication of the fact that folk with a
political heart must have that heart where their treasure
is, and that in the case of Lord Harris's company, is on
the Rand ; and, further, it is an indication of the avidity
with which home politicians wUl make small capital
out of comparatively unimportant colonial questions.
South Africa is stUl, it seems, to be the rope in this
political tug of war in England. To suppose that persons
interested in the welfare of South Africa are to sit stiU
and see "Responsible Government" forced out of the
reluctant hands of our Home administration by the
Responsible Government association of Johannesburg
and the Boers of Pretoria — a responsible government
which would give to the Boers and those disaffected
colonists " the upper hand " in the Transvaal — is absurd.

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 135
Britain has not made war and spent £250,000,000 for
nothing. But to have secured predominance and then
to sneak into a lower place, would be an abdication which
would lose us our South African Colonies, and that would
be the beginning of the end of our " Imperialist " castles
in the air.

136 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT

XXVII
I HAVE spoken of the higgledy-pigglediness of this capital
of the Gold Reef. All new towns which have been " run
up" have the same characteristics. Here in Pritchard
Street there are seven or eight story buUdings which
the Americans with brutal picturesqueness call " sky
scrapers," and next door to these towering stories there
is a shed of a shop. But there is another aspect of
Johannesburg which is more important than these snaU-
shells, and that is the snaUs that live in them — the
people of Johannesburg! I saw next to no poor. It
was a bustling, strenuous crowd that went about the
streets, and here at any rate there are not — although it
is the dearest town on earth — a large number on the
verge of starvation, like the twelve mUUons we have
heard about in Great Britain. There was not even a
depressed look about the people. Yet look at the storms
they have weathered. A cattle country swept by the
rinderpest, that was a calamity. The oppression which
came before and after the Raid, when every door, even the
door of the Volksraad, was barred with gold and opened
but to golden keys. The war ! And yet to-day the
people are again prosperous, and ten years of peace and

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 137
dips into the lucky bag of nature, wUl make this country
rich " beyond the dreams of avarice," lUce Thrale's Brewery.
The mineral wealth of the country has only peeped
through the scrapings which have been made by human
hands at Kimberley, Jaggersfontein, the Premier, and on
the Rand. If statesmen will only give this marveUous
mineral country a chance, it wiU surprise Europe in the
next ten gUstening years. Many travellers who come
here, however, think that the mineral wealth is every
thing. They confine their observations to the busy
money-making towns, the roar of the stamps, the huge
snowdrifts of the white taiUngs, which, seen from a
distance, look like huge marquees or flower-show tents,
and do not note the rich country which lies between
Bloemfontein and Basutoland ; they pay no attention to
the rich vaUeys of alluvial soil which wUl grow any crops
and any fruit, and they don't beUeve in the agricultm-al
development of the future. I do. I have gone over
Jackson's DrUt and up the EUip River ; I have seen the
ploughed land, I have seen the irrigated land, and I know
what is being done on these even with dUatory agricul
ture. Here you scratch the land with the plough, and
meaUes wUl grow with the avidity of weeds. I have seen
how fir trees planted on rockeries of kopjes will grow
with their clutching roots as well and fnore quickly than
they do in their colder home in Europe. I have seen the
mimosa tree in fuU blossom, and I have seen peaches and
apricots grow and bear in the sturdy orchards. I beUeve
that, apart from the immense mineral resources, which are

138 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
hidden away in the cellars of earth, the business to be
done on the ground floor is also gigantic. My drive of
some twenty-five miles from Johannesburg up the KUp
River to Zurbecom, where there was a mUitary station
to protect the Johannesburg waterworks during the war,
and where the ground even now can be harvested for
pom-poms and shrapnel sheUs, was undertaken on a
fervid summer day. It is close to our destination at
Zurbecom that there are the graves of twenty-seven
of the Gordon Highlanders. We drove back to Johannes
burg by another route, and passed the racecourse, and by
that time I was a convert to the beUef that, if wUling
hands can only be found, and stiff hearts are put to the
furrows, there is a beautiful pastoral future before this
country, as well as the gUttering one which is to come
from the yellow ground and the banket reef.
My minor experiences of the drive are unworthy of a
line of print. But you should see a mimosa tree in full
bloom, the young blue gums with their sUver sheen and
white flowers, the red gums with their crimson edges!
The rich red earth and even the air was interesting. We
saw some of the great white locust birds, the finch (the
blacks call it the succabul), which is black and wears a
crimson sash, and has such a long tail that it looks like
a large dragon-fly. It wobbles in its flight so much,
because of its tail feathers, that a friend of mine has aptly
called it the " black rag bird." It is only fair to say of
this finch with its long ungainly taU, that it is only the
male bird that is so appendaged, and that he wears it only

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 139
in the " mashing " season, and when the courting is over
he sheds the taU and goes about in " lounge " feathers.
He has dropped the dignity of being a kind of sable
comet, but he has achieved the comfort of a dressing-
jacket. There was interest everywhere on this drive. Not
only were we where battle had trod, but we saw clever
and agile little mere cats on the veldt, and all the way I
had most intelUgent companions, who were never tired of
administering " long drinks " of information to my thirsty
curiosity. Their comradeship would have made dreary
veldt mUes interesting. As yet I have found nothing
but acute intelligence in the country. If anything, it is
too eager, and that is its only fault. I want to meet some
fools to make me feel at home, but I am giving up the
search — a reverse search from that of Diogenes. But
besides intelUgence, let me say I have met nothing but
courtesy. I visited to-day a compound where there are
seventy natives, and they all wore black shiny smUes.
They were playing on the earth at an incomprehensible
game, which is said, but upon slender information, to
resemble backgammon. Some of the boys were playing
football, which was excellent with the temperature at 76°.
Here there is no difficulty in getting black labourers.
The work is surface work and easy, and the blacks excel
in that. I have come back after a sunny drive of forty
mUes with wrists as red and face as sunburnt as to justify
the proud title of "red neck," which the Boers used to
apply to the EngUsh soldiers.

140 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

XXVIII
A WEEK ago Premier Diamond mine £1 shares were at
forty-nine ; they are at sixty to-day. The owners of the
racecourse in Johannesburg subscribed £10 each ; they
bought the freehold of the course, and became, to their
surprise, the owners of gold land. They sold the land
for mining, and that gave the five hundred members of
the turf club, thousands of pounds each. A syndicate
of mine-owners purchased the freehold of a farm of 1700
morgen for £26,000. They desired the land for the pur
pose of getting water to their mines. They sold the
mining rights and the surface rights in these lands,
retaining the water rights, and received the sum of
£80,000 in cash for that concession. Two early specu
lators, before the real development of the reef, came up
and had to bargain for the land of a widow. One of
them would have given £500 for her rights. She wanted,
as a widow had every right to want, £550 ; but the
fortune-seeking gentleman would not budge from his
£500 offer. So the negotiations ended for that night.
The other gentleman, who had, I beUeve, the gift — if not
of languages — of language, talked to his colleague that

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 141
night, and next morning they went back to the widow
and made her happy with the £550 for a property which
has since yielded to its owners something like £3,000,000.
This shows that this is a country of dazzling romance.
Tom Tiddler's ground is nothing to it, although in some
cases you have to pick up the gold and silver from a
depth of 2500 feet below the surface, and the reef is still
dipping to the south. But stories like these authentic
instances, stories which make the mouth of your pocket
water, are as common here as blackberries are at home.
The cases where in the " toss-up " the coin falls " tails "
uppermost, are more difficult of investigation, and when
probed are not exhUarating. To be in this atmosphere,
where to some extent gambling is a business, makes one
feel in a hurry. There is no " retired leisure " or taking
sedate pleasure in this stock exchange. I feel, however,
in a condition of " splendid isolation," for I never had a
gold or diamond share.
Johannesburg is in strange contrast to the country
round it, with its quiet farms, where it seems always
afternoon. There are few fields, and where there are
boundaries they are not hedgerows, but barbed wire
stretched between stobs of wUlow. But these "stobs"
begin to show leaves and branches soon after they have
been put in the ground. There are in some places for
bidding hedges of bayonet-Uke aloes, which are formid
able not only on account of their points, but because
they harbour snakes. But the country is quiet, with
a wide sabbath look over its sunshine-lit vastness. But

142 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
Johannesburg! it is never Sunday there, or Sunday is
as restless as the rest of the week. The Boers stUl
have their reUgion. They observe the Bible. They
search their consciences. They go to church and Usten
to sermons, and these are long and rousing. But the
rest of the inhabitants seem to have no reUgion, or if
they have it is not marked by any pubUc observance.
They don't read the Bible ; they peruse share Usts.
They don't beUeve in Providence, but in a boom. They
play tennis all Sunday. They do not know it, but they
might do worse than believe in something.
One day, soon after my arrival in Johaimesburg, I went
to see the places from which that great and growing town
wUl in future probably draw its increased water-supply.
Not only is water a primary necessity in a place where
the roads get up and blow in your face, in a country
where it is always sunshine, and where the sanitary
arrangements would be greatly improved (and are going
to be improved) by water-carriage of refuse and proper
sewage disposal, but water is as essential to the mines
as labour is. For every ton of ore crushed, about 400
gallons of water are required. As a stamp crushes about
five tons in a day, and there are nearly 6000 stamps at
work to-day, and as there wUl probably be more than
twice as many at work in five or six years, it is obvious,
even to rudimentary arithmetic, that even now the trade
wiU require for use something Uke twelve mUUon gaUons
of water a day, and that the demand, both for trade and
for domestic purposes, will go on increasing as the great

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 143
trade prospers. A city that is set on a hill cannot be
hid, and Johannesburg is nearly 6000 feet above sea-
level. But besides this prominence of the high-set city,
its position also makes the problem of water - supply
a very difficult one. All the water that is supplied to
Johannesburg has, therefore, to be pumped. It is not
possible here to make large storage reservoirs, as in
England, in high vaUeys, and to allow the water to run
down to the towns, which are for the most part on river-
levels. The " rand " means " a ridge." So here for the
filling of our cups we are at the mercy of a steam-engine.
And here, as all the wealth is mineral and is taken from
the ground, so even the water has to come from the
bowels of the earth. It is true there was a scheme for
coUecting the waters falling on and running off a small
catchment area of five mUes' in extent at Vierfontein. The
word Vierfontein means " four streams," and it seemed a
fairly good place to collect and store water. A dam was
begun, but before it was finished the syndicate became
aware that it would be better to get water from the
dolomite formation further to the south, and the dam
was not completed. All round Johannesburg to the
south and west and north there is a great deposit
of magnesian Umestone, which is called by geologists
dolomite, and by the Dutch "elephant's klip," that is,
" elephant's rock," and they call it that because when it
weathers on the surface the rock is not unlike the corru
gated hide of an elephant. Most of the Dutch names
mean something. Their name for the rock in which the

144 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
gold is found is "banket," and that is the word which
is appUed to Boer " hard bake " with almonds in it, and
there is sufficient resemblance between the rock and
the sweet to make the simUe a good one. Before the
water properties of this rock were known, a syndicate,
as we have seen, was formed to secure for the mines the
waters of the fom' streams, and hence their dam. Though
the gathering - ground was small, their scheme was a
feasible one. The Johannesburg Water Company, after
some unsuccessful experiments at supply, had gone to
the dolomite formation at a place above KUprivers oog,
a distance ' of eighteen mUes from Johannesburg, and
was pumping from that exceUent underground reservoir
nearly two million gallons of water a day to the town.
As, at the time I was in Johannesburg, the question of
the transfer of the three companies' undertakings to the
Rand Water Board was being much discussed, on a
Sunday I drove with some friends to see the site of the
proposed reservoir at Vierfontein, then into the Klip
vaUey to OUphant's Vlei, thence to Zwartzkopies, and
then on to Eooicop, to see some of the proposed sources
of supply from the dolomite. My friend, who drove me
in his motor-car, is not only an accomplished engineer,
but he is the most accomplished motor-car driver that I
ever sat beside. To that fact I owe my life. To the
roads I owe my bruises. I never had such a journey
on wheels. Now we were bumping over huge boulders,
now we were in the trough of a rut a foot deep, now we
were in the waters of a drift, now on the trackless veldt

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 145
Only half the time was I on my seat, and when, as I did
frequently, I returned to it, it was with a suddenness
that shook. When I was on the seat, it was a grim-death
hold that maintained me in it for a minute, untU one of
the side wheels was upon a parapet, or the whole motor
went down with a bump into a three-foot drain - like
cutting across the road. And that from nine in the
morning tiU 4.30 in the afternoon, with a blessed hospital
rest of an hour for lunch by the river and under wiUow
trees. We went over fifty mUes that day, and these are
even at this distance of time sore to remember. But,
although I do not exaggerate the inequaUties and perils
of these things they caU roads, I want to do justice to
the friend who drove us. I never sat behind a chauffeur
with more abUity and resource. Had it not been for
these quaUties over these fifty inauspicious mUes, I
should not be here to tell the tale. His alertness over
came all difficulties, and these were innumerable. His
quick judgment always chose the better way. But
what struck me as much as his abiUty as a driver was
the way that the ten horse-power car ^ stood the
thousand strains, the jolts, the bumps, the furrows,
the knotted out crops of innumerable strata. It
weathered these storms magnificently, but it must have
had physical memories of that sabbath day's journey,
as I had. Looking back on it, and remembering how
• I have left the name of the car to be filled in when I know which
firm of makers will give me the most for the stop-press space. You
see, the commercial instinct is developing in me since I have been in
Johannesburg.

146 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
near death I was on a dozen occasions, remembering
how my fears, which might have been taken by some
to be voiced in imprecations, were really escaping in
sudden prayers, I am convinced that that Sunday was
the most reUgious day I have had for a very long time.
It was, too, a day beginning with a spring freshness,
soaring into a zenith oven, and faUing into clouds and
thunder in the afternoon, but not to rain. A few half-
crown drops came down on the roof of the stoep after
we had returned in safety, but that was aU. There was
no shower-bath for the air, and that needed washing and
cooUng. But even after the hot day and the sore experi
ences, the air was fresh and breatheable, and the lungs
drank their fill. Even then the whole sky above the
MagaUesberg mountains was flushing and winking with
the summer lightning, and the garden was chirping with
innumerable crickets.
The veldt is not only rich — especially after rains — in
summer flowers of all sorts, which are the more precious
in their blooms because of the level bareness of the red
earth in which they grow, but the "flowers of air" —
butterflies, moths, and dragon-flies, which frequent its
clear spaces of broad air — are also many to the captive
eye, and float in the imagination. But my imagination is
like the needle to the pole, and these flutters of wings,
the pausing of the red-bodied dragon-fly over the marsh
in the veldt, only make me think of the sapphire of our
own gossamer-winged marsh frequenters. I am always
weighing in the scales of comparison, and instead of

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 147
throwing the sword into one of the scales, as the Roman
conqueror did, I throw in my heart. It is a country
to glamour you; but home is the country to love,
and I have found many colonial hearts of my way of
thinking.

148 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT

XXIX
In the old time there used to be petty tribal wars between
the natives of various races employed in the mines.
The men of different tribes, although all of the Bantu
famUy, had to be kept in separate compounds, and the
feuds were many, if they did not lead to very serious
consequences. But there were broken heads and white
plasters to show where they had been. Whilst I was in
the midst of the mines there were some Uttle coloured
wars. Thus, I saw in the Ca'pe Argus of November 22 a
statement that, on Friday night, the 18th instant, a
cold-blooded murder took place in the Chinese quarter
at the Van Rhyn Compound. This seems to have been
an affray between the Chinese cooUes and the Chinese
police. A poUceman was stabbed by a coolie, whUe two
others had their brains battered out with jumpers; a
fourth was so seriously injured that he was not expected
to Uve, and a fifth was just saved by the timely arrival
of the compound manager. On Sunday, December 11,
there was a battle between Chinamen and blacks. It
appears that a black Helen was the cause of the
strife. In the war which ensued one Chinaman and
three blacks were kUled. One could match these detaUs

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 149
from RatcUffe Highway. But here the stories are grist
to the nulls of politicians at home ; and it is unfortunate
that poUticians wUl seize for their platform performances
the picturesque detaUs of such encounters, instead of the
soUd facts of the case. Such incidents have occurred in
a hundred cases before. They have come to nothing of
real importance under the strong hands of a vigUant poUce
— a force which, I have no doubt, deserves an encomium
as high as was conferred upon our EngUsh force by the
Adolph Beck Commission, which kept its knout for the
deserving Home Office. But these sensational incidents
are really beside the question. Every one knows how a
motor-car accident in England attracts the pubUc eye,
whUe you may be run over by a bus or a four-wheeler
without getting any kudos out of the martyrdom. There
is a microscope on the mines at present.
I have seen several of the mines and the compounds.
I have seen the anthiUs in mUlions on the veldt, and
Johannesburg and the Rand is only a human anthill.
And what is this industry ? It has been on hot-foot since
1886, and aU the gold that has been got out by the busy
ants of men since that time, if put into a ball, would only
form a globe 15 feet in diameter. Even the industry in
California, which has existed for many years, has only
produced gold enough to form a globe 21 feet in diameter.
But, considering the time the mines have been at work in
the Witwatersrand, they have done better than those of
California. Still, I suppose it was worth the trouble.
although the result seems small. Nowhere, so far as I

150 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
know, has gold been got from the conglomerate banket
in the same way that it has on the Rand. In other places,
gold has been procured largely from quartz, and from
alluvial deposits, and only the other day there was a
rumour that the banket with gold in it had been discovered
in Rhodesia. But rumour is a jade, with a mouth fuU of
Ues. And in this case, although there may be banket
in Rhodesia, it is stUl a question whether the sprinkled
gold in it is worth the working. Jealous Johannesburg
says "no." I hope, for the sake of Rhodesia, that the
answer wUl be " yes."
There are a great many Americans in Johannesburg
who brought their experience from California and Klon-
dyke to this new market, and one of these, being
shown some quartz with gold in it, was asked what he
thought of a mine that could yield that, and he answered
in the deliberate way in which Americans speak, as if
they had all eternity to finish the sentence, "WaU, you
might just as well show me the nail of a horse's shoe, and
ask me how fast that horse could travel." A graphic
answer. But it was not of Americans, who do not Uve in
compounds, but in nice viUas at Park Town, that I meant
to speak here, but of the blacks and the yeUows. No one
should be in Johannesburg without visiting some of these
large-scale bothies, and endeavom-ing to make up his
mind on the question of the slavery of the Chinese. He
ought, also, to make himself acquainted with the
conditions of the industry, and the methods by which

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 151
the gold is won. As to the underground working, it is
difficult to speak. AU mining is, more or less, of a
lucky-bag, but gold-mining on the Rand is more of
an industrial venture than a gambUng enterprise. It
is worth whUe looking at the matter from that point
of view.

152 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT

XXX
The Daily News, in an article published on December
20, 1904, speaks with a "nice derangement" of epithets,
as Mrs. Malaprop would have said, of the "nauseous
mining brood." I have seen something of the gentlemen
that the Daily News thus describes, and I have formed,
perhaps on better information, a different opinion of them.
In my view, they are inteUigent, hardworking, shrewd,
money-making men. They are Uke our own colUery-
owners, cotton-spinners, and financiers, as Mr. Chamber
lain said, only, if possible, with keener edge. But why
they should be called " nauseous " merely because they
carry on a lucrative business I fail to understand, except
that envy has a foul mouth.
But the idea that Johannesburg is the " hub " of the
South African wheel is, it would seem, a megalomaniacal
error. If you find out, not the boom value of the mines,
but the real value, a moderate 10 per cent, is made out
of the Rand, and that is without aUowing for a sinking
fund to pay off the capital value of the mines in twenty-
five or thirty years, in which time those in work may be
exhausted. That is no great return when you remember
that you can get 7 to 8 per cent, on mortgage for buUding

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 153
stands in or about Johannesburg. It is poor pay for ex
ploiting; and if you discover that only about £11,000,000
per annum is spent out of the mining receipts on labour
on the Rand, and that the dividends go away largely to
Europe and America, there is little enough for this
hobbledehoy town to live upon.
A gentleman that I, to some extent, as far as courtesy
would permit, cross-examined, told me he had gone into
this matter from the point of view of the figures, and
even remembering that if facts are false witnesses figures
are more so, some of his calculations bore out the
view I have ventured to express above. He told me
that the mines had once been valued at £470,000,000, but
that to-day, or at the beginning of the year, more sane
calculations had been made, and the value was put at
£48,000,000. The amount of capital expended had been
about £36,000,000, and the total return from the mines
last year was about £21,000,000. He had, with a sleuth-
hound pertinacity, calculated that the working expenses
of the mines — for mining on the Rand is, in a sense, a
manufacture — amounted to about 75 per cent, of the
gross receipts, or about £16,000,000 per annum ; of that,
and here speculation came in to help the lame foot of
arithmetic, he calculated that £5,000,000 went out of
the country, and largely, and unfortunately, to America,
for machinery and the like, and that left £11,000,000 for
the white and black population of the Rand. There was,
therefore, for the return on the capital value of £48,000,000,
or, say, £50,000,000, exactly £5,000,000, or 10 per cent.,

154 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
and that money, as we have seen, largely found its way
out of the country, and roosted in England, Europe, and
America. His view was that that really was a business
like measure of the financial capacity of the mines, and
according to him these were " times most bad, without
the hope of better to be had," for, although the deep
levels were better and would yield 10^ pennyweights of
gold per ton, the winning of these cost more money on
capital account, cost more time, and were, of course, more
expensive to work. The real source of increased profit
to the owners was to be found in the 75 per cent, work
ing expenses. Their chance was to decrease that per
centage, and hence, in his view, the mine-owners now
found virtue in favour of the liquor law, by which it is
made a crime, with a heavy penalty of fine and imprison
ment, to supply natives with intoxicants — and hence,
too, their desire for Chinese cheap labour. His horizon,
however, was bounded by the per cent, profits, and he saw
and said that it was a poor return for money from a
gold-mine. His own interests, I gathered, lay the other
way, and he praised investments in land which would
yield a return of from 6 to 8 per cent, without risk —
without the risk even of being called a " nauseous brood "
by the Daily News. Why should people be glamoured
into a gold-mine when the sedate land would produce
such a steady harvest ?

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 155

XXXI
It is not to be doubted that there is some vehement
opinion against the experimental employment of the
Chinese. There are those who look for a great future
for South Africa. It has a wonderful climate, but it
wants men and money. The last — capital — is as essen
tial as the labour or the sunshine. But, notwithstanding
that fact, there are many who wage a wordy war against
the class they call Rand lords, or, with even more refine
ment, a "nauseous brood." Most men who see clearly
are convinced that nothing is to be done to exploit it and
make it a white man's country, unless money can be
induced to go there ; and at the same time they scold the
capitalists who have gone there and helped to the present
prosperity, and hold up these to the contempt of the
British reader, and charge it as an offence against them
that they are on the Rand for dividends, and nothing
else. I wonder what they think capi|al emigrates for ?
But these are the strange contradictory phases of poUtical
controversy. One of the arguments used by these somewhat able
preachers, is that the poUcy of the Rand lords, the domi
nant race, is to secure serf labour, so that the white

156 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
labour — the white proletariat, which Lord MUner said
was not wanted in the country — may not have the upper
hand of votes. Their desire, it is said, is not to have
a white labouring class which can dictate to the masters
in the matter of wages ; which can have a powerful say
in poUtical questions in South Africa. They desire to
introduce slave labour that they may outflank trades
unionism. It is a war of classes, and this hireling
chivalry is to fight the Rand lords' battles. WeU, looking
at the condition of some of our other colonies, it might
well seem that such fears, if entertained by capital in
South Africa, were not Ul founded. But whether it is
a rational dread or not, this is the uncompromising
attitude taken up by many persons who caU them
selves impartial because they are not interested in the
mines. They assert two things — that the Report of the
Transvaal Labour Commission, upon which this new
policy as to labour is said to rest, was the report of a
" packed body," and therefore an unsound foundation ;
and second, that it is not true that unskilled white labour
would not do the work of the mines, and these advocates
point to Mr. Creswell's experiments at the Village Main
Reef Mine — experiments which have been described by aU
who have inquired into them as failures, and experiments
which have been abandoned by the owners of the mine
in question. The discrediting of the Labour Commission
Report is an unworthy trick.
But one curious feature of this political argument is
freely developed in the articles reprinted from the Daily

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 157
Chronicle. The view of the writer is that South Africa
has a curse — gold. That it is being sacrificed by its
rulers to a cUque with a lust for huge profits, and yet in
a high-faluting peroration he says, "Every kopje, every
vaUey, cries aloud for capital and skiU." Does this in
genious gentleman think that the way to get the " cry "
adequately answered is by crucifying the existing
capitalists, by treating them as criminals, because they,
like every other human being, want a return on their
invested money ? Does he think that skUl will go where
capital does not go ? Such reasoning may do very well
for a daUy paper commissioner, but it will not convince
a practical pubUc. The practical public of South Africa
have come to the conclusion that "under present con
ditions and cost of Uving the use of unskilled white
labour in the mines is practically impossible." And after
carefuUy looking into the matter, and having, as I said,
no interest in any mine, I am inclined to think that that
view is weU founded. This is an emergency experi
ment. If, as is possible, large deposits of alluvial gold
are found in South Africa, and tempt the somewhat un
desirable digger and his satellites to the colony, the
aspect of affairs might change. But at present the
mining operations can only be conducted by means of
large capital expenditure. To get the capital to adventure
in the enterprise you must persuade it to go there. To
persuade it you must show it a probabUity of a sub
stantial return, and to do so you must secure it the
labour which is necessary to the working of the mines.

158 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
In the present condition of sentiment it is impossible to
compel the black man to do a fair day's work for a fair
day's pay. It is possible that in the whole of the country
south of the Zambesi there may not be a sufficient
number of black boys to supply the growing wants of the
mines. What, then, is the alternative? This contro-
versiaUst is like aU ardent advocates, a Uttle unfair.
He seems to admit that the Chinese are weU fed and
weU housed — he even indicates that they are becoming
fastidious, and ask for eggs at breakfast — eggs at 3s. 6d.
a dozen. But he says on another page, "Mine-owners
are far too astute to treat the first lot badly." And he
admits that the " cause " in South Africa — the cause he
was sent out to advocate — has not been helped by the
cry of " slavery " at home. But is this a fair inference —
except for the writer of articles with head-lines — the
inference that in future, when there are, say, 100,000
Chinese in the country, the astute mine-owners wiU
treat them badly ? Does a selfish man underfeed his
horse, or kick the dog ? This suggestion is not worthy of
a pen attempting to be fair.
Then his further argument is that the Chinese are a
poor lot, and don't pay at the price, only doing 23'2 inches
a day, whUe the Kaffirs throughout the Rand do 3 6 7
inches. This, even if it were accurate, seems futUe argu
ment. Either it cheapens production or it does not.
His idea is that it is intended to cheapen production, and
yet the astute mine-owners are, it seems, taking inferior
workmen where they could get black men who would do

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 159
more for the same wage. Again, this, I take it, is sensa
tional daUy paper head-Une writing.
Then, finally, he has a triumphant poke at the capi-
taUsts — for this is a capitalist hunt — and he says gold
costs 31s. 2d. per ton to work, and its value is 41s. 9'4<^.
There is therefore half a sovereign of profit per ton for
dividend. But the question is what the 10s. has to pay
interest on, and our writer does not help us here.
It is therefore a far-seeing poUcy with which these
gentlemen of the Rand are credited. They desire, it would
seem, to Uve a dominant class in a country worked by
serf labour. They foresee a time when, if white unskilled
labour is introduced, the taU of labour wUl wag the dog
of capital, and that they desire to prevent and hinder by
freezing out white labour altogether, and in its place
procuring the services of Chinamen at from Is. to 2s. a day.
This, of course, is contrary to the intention of the Govern
ment. Mr. BaKour said that the object of the ordinance
was not to displace white labour that yellow humanity
was introduced, and Lord MUner calculated that for every
ten Chinamen employed there would be employment for
another white man. Chinese labour was to be the means
to white employment. And the facts bear out the truth
of these anticipations. The Colonial Secretary, in his
speech at Leamington the other day, said that Chinese
labour had increased the number of white men employed
by 1700. That may be true, but how it is compatible with
a statement pubUshed in the same paper it is difficult
to see. A Johannesburg newspaper of December 5, 1904,

160 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
contained in a letter from Lord MUner read at a meet
ing at Dorking on December 2, that "the introduction
of 7000 to 10,000 Chinese to the Transvaal had resulted
in 1000 additional men finding employment in the mines,
and that 8000 to 10,000 whites were benefiting directly
by the introducton of the first 7000 Chinese." But we
have already given the exact statistics.
But Mr. Naylor, notwithstanding his mission from the
Daily Chronicle, does not propose to repeal the Chinese
ordinance, even if the Liberals came into power to
morrow, and thereby opens a trap-door in his platform,
through which he and his arguments disappear from view.
It is easy to talk " large " of the future of race problems
and what not, but what we have to do with is the imme
diate future — " one step enough for me " — and Mr. Naylor
has no practical step to propose.

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 161

XXXII
By the courtesy of some of the Rand lords, I was
enabled to see some mines, some mUls, and some com
pounds. The whole of the processes are fuU of interest.
I dare say many people at home think that the gold is got
here by digging, as in the Australian sense, or by washing,
as in the Klondyke sense, bub it is got by mining. The
deepest mine at present worked is some 2500 feet below
the surface. The rock is driUed, and by charging the
drUl-holes with dynamite, or some kindred substance, and
exploding the charge, the stubborn stuff (banket) is brought
away, taken up the shaft, and then crushed by means of
stamps. From the stamps it is washed in its crushed
state over copper plates where the crushings are mixed
with mercury, and the mercury and gold form an amalgam.
The gold is taken out of the amalgam, and, so far, the
process is complete. But much gold is not extracted by
this method. The debris has stUl to be treated with
cyanide of potassium, and this, after standing in the great
vats for about eight days, reduces the gold which is
contained in the sUmy dehris to a solution. The solution
is then poured over zinc, which extracts the gold from it.
M

162 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
The process might reaUy be as properly called a process
of manufacture as of mining.
First we saw the machinery which drives the mUl —
forces down air into the mine and the like ; some of it
made in Milwaukee, some in England. Then we went
into the roar of the stamps, which is more noisy than " the
far-sounding sea." The noise was deafening; speech
in the presence of these pounding hammers, impossible.
The day I was there, there were 300 stamps at work out
of a total of 320 at that particular mine. That was even
a greater number than was at work before the war, and
that had been made possible by Chinese labour. In a
gold-mine, from beginning to end you see no gold — untU
it comes to the smelting. Up to that time it is a matter
of faith. But I saw much which was as interesting as
gold. I saw the works, and the stamps, and the cyanide
tanks, and the compounds. The old Kaffir compound was
a poor place — a barrack square with houses round it.
Most of the sleeping-places were without windows, and
the light and air had to find its way in at the door, or at
a grating over the door. The Kaffirs, making their Uttle
anklets and other wire ornaments, had to sit near the
entrance to get the Ught, They are greatly improved
to-day, and windows have been, or are being, put into aU
the rooms in the Kaffir compound. That has been
brought about by the regulations which have been made
in connection with the housing of the Chinese.
In this Kaffir compound there were 1500 blacks, and
had been for years, and no EngUsh editor had gone into

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 163
literary hysterics about the slavery. But the new Chinese
compound, which must, with its hospital and other
appUances, have cost the company £40,000, is much better
than the other ; and the Chinese keep their quarters much
neater than the blacks. In their sleeping-rooms the
Chinamen had folded up their blankets — a thing that is
very rare in the slovenly black quarters. In this com
pound, where there was more light and air-space than in
the black compound, there were 3200 Chinese ; of these,
400 were employed above ground, some of them as poUce-
men, some as cooks. The men I saw were physically
strong and healthy. In many cases they had a distinctly
European cast of countenance. Some of them had the
Asiatic type, and they looked lugubrious ; but none of the
others, so far as I could judge, looked unhappy, although,
as a race, it is not as happy-looking as the black race —
who grin much, even under the excruciating torture of
their own concertina performances. One man I saw in a
comfortable hospital who was, apparently, opium-drunk.
There were very few cases of disease. The police —
Chinese — in khaki, looked very smart. I saw the work
men from the mine come to the check office when they
had done their " shift " in the mine. Most of them were
coming up at three o'clock, although the time of the
shift lasted until five, but they had done their 36 inches,
and were entitled to their Is. 6d. So up they came and
got their tickets. I saw one man who had done four
inches more and earned his Is, 8d,, and I was informed
that one Chinese cormorant for work did 70 inches in the

164 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
day. As yet the Chinese are not as expert as the black
men were, and don't do, on the average, quite so much
work, but they are learning their trade, and are apt
apprentices, and, oddly enough, they and the black men
work side by side in the mine together, and the blacks
are teaching the yellows their handicraft. I saw the
Chinamen feed. The food consisted of a mess of rice
and meat and vegetables (they are fond of beans), and
each man as he got his dish looked at it with a critical
eye, and I saw no dissatisfaction on their sphinx-like
faces. Each man brought with him a tin can for his tea,
and they returned with their meal to their quarters in
the compound and produced their chopsticks, and, I hope
sincerely, enjoyed themselves. Some of them are taking
to the more civilized and more wholesale method of feeding
with the spoon. Bub I saw some use their fingers with
gusto, and one man used his stringy hair as a table
napkin — a course which I could not approve, I asked as
to their vices. Some smoked opium and made themselves
stupid with it. But these were the exception. There
was not much, if any, gambling, but these were Chinese
from the north of China. They write letters home and
post them freely. They are fond of children, and there
were eight children under ten years of age in the com
pound who had been brought over by their parents.
Now, are these displacing white labour ? Since the Chinese
have been employed at this particular mine, the company
have employed 90 more white men, and had the greatest
difficulty in getting men fit for the well-paid places they

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 165
had to fill. It is the low whites about the compound
that reqidre the most looking after. It is these men who
wUl knock the Chinese or black men about, relying — God
save the mark I — upon belonging to the dominant race.
It is to watch these men, and prevent their brutalities,
that those who are responsible have to devote a good
deal of their time. The blacks and yellows do not
molest one another, there is no race hatred between
them. But when we hear of making South Africa a
white man's country, I remember these bleached buUies
and hesitate.
I wish I could have spoken to some of these copper-
coloured Asiatics, to find out what was passing in their
heads ; but my ignorance shamed me and prevented me.
It was deep crying to deep. Were they thinking of
home with a cUnging regret ? My heart is not in these
highlands ; where are their hearts, I wonder ? What is the
hope that leads them on, down the mine, for a ten-hours'
shift ? Is it only the food, which is much better than
they get in their hovels at home ? Is it the wages, which
they are spending freely, or is it the hope of the return
to China after the three years ? As to their spendings,
I saw one man who had acquired and was carrying with
pride a blue-painted tin box. Was he preparing to pack
up and go home at the end of his three years, or was this
a box for his treasures, his bank ? It was a nice tin box,
and bright blue, but he must have done a good many
inches before he could buy that box; but his heart no
doubt, was in there. Were they, in this dusty summer

166 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
heat, thinking of far Manchuria, with its 20 degrees of
frost? I wish I could have read their thoughts, but
it was only from the blank title-page of their faces
that I thought I could read that they were not
unhappy, and by my own eyes that I could judge that
they were not uncomfortable. That compound Ufe is not
absolute liberty, is true, but it must have its merits, for
there is a black boy in the compound at this mine who
has been ten years in the service of the company. He
has not served continuously. He has gone away to his
kraal, but he has always come back. If I had to
choose between the compound and a Scotch or EngUsh
workhouse, or, if you like, an asylum, I would go
to the compound, notwithstanding dissuading editors.
Besides, if it is as circumscribed as in the case of these
institutions I have mentioned, as in the case of pubUc
schools at home, there is the big bow window at the end
of three years, which looks out on the snows of North
China, if they want to go back. And won't the blue box
make a sensation there ! If the black compound is not
slavery, how is the yellow compound serfdom ? They are
much the same in the matter of food, except that in some
mines they give the black, Kaffir beer.^ I had an oppor
tunity of comparing the mine compounds with the great
compound of the Johannesburg corporation, in which
about three thousand black men, and I don't know how
many mules, are housed and fed. The work performed
' At one compound it costs 5fd. to 6d. a day to feed a black man,
while it costs lid. per day to feed a Chinaman.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 167
by the corporation in the removal of night-soU and refuse
in disinfecting, and in other sanitary work, is gigantic,
and, after careful inspection, I am convinced that it is
weU and ably done. But the compounds at the mines
where the blacks and the Chinese are housed certainly
compare favourably with the compound where the cor
poration house their black servants.
It is weU to remember that what the mine-owners
wanted was labour, and not Chinese labour. We may
agree with Henry George, that all wealth is the product
of labour, or we may disagree with him, but there is no
question that there can be no wealth produced, indeed
there can be no Uving without labour, and it seems
natm'al that mine-owners desire to make their industry
prosperous, although that to some fanatics seems
heinous. That could not be done, as we have seen, by
means of white labour. The gold reef on the Rand cannot
pay for white labour. It is quite true that gold-mines
are worked in Western Australia by white-men's work.
But in these they get something Uke an ounce of gold
for the ton of ore worked, which will pay the white man's
wages of seventeen or eighteen shUlings a day. But in
the Rand they get only eight or nine pennyweight per
ton, and in Rhodesia there are mines where they only get
from two and a half to three pennyweight per ton.
That assay wUl not, of course, bear white wages. But they
not only could not afford white labour, they were short of
black boys. They had no choice. They would have pre
ferred black boys to yeUow coolies. It is true the blacks

168 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
are uncertain. They will go away after a few months
in the mine with their earnings, but on the whole they
are good workmen, especially those from the Portuguese
territory, and do better work than white unskiUed
labour. Although the Chinaman wUl, in my view, learn
to be as good a workman, he has to be taught. He is
as yet " raw." His language makes interpreters neces
sary. His labour, even if it is equal to the black man's,
is not cheaper. He receives as good wages, as good food,
and better house accommodation, than the black worker.
With the cost of bringing him and sending him back,
which must be put at some £15 a head, he is as dear
an article to buy (let us say, out of deference to the slave
theory) as the black boy, who wUl cost about £3 to £4 a
head to procure. But the black boy may have to be re
placed several times in a period of three years. Although
this industry would, I am convinced, have preferred
native to foreign labour, it was not to be had. It was
therefore Hobson's choice. I have not spoken to any
one in this country who has not admitted the necessity
of the step. Some of them, to salve too sensitive con
sciences, have said " it was a sad necessity," but that is
the whole length the opposition goes here. We know,
however, what was said in England.

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 169

XXXIII
Rain, it can rain with a vengeance. We have had such
a storm as would be " head-lined " in England. Only
the other day three inches of rain fell in twenty-four
hours. This morning we had torrential rains. The rain
sounded on the tin town of Johannesburg like a
thousand " stamps " working, and the lightning was
incessant for a time. The whole sky was scratched with
fire ; and the thunder — these peals were blows of sound,
and one felt one's ears black and blue, when a little
silence fell on them Uke balm. But the storm passed
away to the east, the freshness came into one's room from
the grateful garden, and the sun came out and began to
dry up the pools and turn Johannesburg into dust again.^
I fear I have not said sufficient in description of this
great town. The new Rand Club was opened whUe I was
in Johannesburg. There are six hundred members, and
I should say they were all at lunch thgre on the second
day. Although the club is not yet completed, it promises
• The dust of Johannesburg has been examined, and it is found to
be as sharp, angular, and irritating as that taken from the mine stopes,
and the mine-dust, as we Imow, is responsible for two of the diseases
which have to answer for many deaths each year — Rook-drill pneumonia
and miner's phthisis. Yet the climate of Johannesburg is mostly dust.

170 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
well in its central hall. That day there was not room to
stand in a place they call the " lounge." There are two
other clubs. One at the foot of Hospital Hill, caUed the
Athenaeum, which has pretensions to Uterature, for it has
Minerva's owl for a crest. But really it is an excellent
and hospitable Uttle club. It is cool, with a shady
stoep, which induces to idUng, not in my experience a
characteristic of the town of Johannesburg. But here, as
it is Uterary, it is indulged in. There are idle men every
where, and this may be their resort. I think the qualifi
cation for membership of this club is that you must have
been at a public school or university in England — or
you must not. Three clubs seem to be a sufficient
compliment for a town. It also — for it is a pleasm'e-
loving place — boasts an opera-house, a theatre, and a
music-haU. At the theatre they were acting the Chinese
Honeymoon, but I am informed that it had no bearing
on the problem.
There are three daily papers published in Johannes
burg, the Transvaal leader, the Band Daily Mail, and
the Star. They seem newspapers, and that is the first duty
of a " daily." But they are addicted to head-lines, and
some of these, although in the largest letters, are of the
most misleading sort. " Who was it ? " " Has it fallen ? "
"Now's the time," stare you unmeaningly in the face.
I read some of the " leaders," and found them up to a fan-
provincial average. Like most adventures in this country,
or in this part of it, I suppose these newspapers are
" controlled by a group," in the pubUc interest of course.

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 171
But I am not good at finding out who is behind the
scenes in such cases. It is a little significant that the
first item on the news page is "The Market." In society
nothing else is talked but the market, and things and
poUtics that affect the markets ; the newspapers naturally
put this before world politics.

172 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

XXXIV
In order that I might not have the criticism inflicted
upon me that, Uke Artemus Ward, who deUvered a lecture
entitled " Twenty Minutes in Africa," my experience was
trivial, and that I had merely seen one mine and one
compound, I made a point of visiting others. At least,
that cheap jibe should not be thrown at me. At one
of these I was invited to go down the mine. No doubt
it would have been interesting, and my ambition was
fired by the statement that it was the mine Mr.
Chamberlain inspected. But I changed my poltroon
mind when I found that it was the same mine at which,
shortly after Mr. Chamberlain's descent, the rope had
broken, the cage had descended to the bottom, and
forty-three natives had been kiUed on the spot. Of
course, if this had been forty-three Chinese there would
have been a general election in England. But I
ascertained, further, that the manager had been tried for
manslaughter (you see, in legal proceedings they still
caU the blacks men), and that in his defence it was
proved that the accident was due to the rapid and
undetected corrosion of the steel rope, that no foresight
could have prevented the accident, and that no one was

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 173
to blame. I dare say he was quite rightly acquitted,
but I did not want to fall in with another case of
imdetectable corrosion by acid of a steel rope, so I
remained on the surface. I visited other compounds
besides the one I have described. I saw one where
practically no blacks were employed (about forty in all),
and where there were 1890 Chinese at work the day of
my visit. I went all through the mill, and saw the
yellow brick of gold — which I could scarcely raise, and
which I was told was worth £3000. I saw the white
snowbaUs of the mercury amalgam. These moulded balls
were in tubs. To raise one of these buckets meant
apoplexy, and I refrained. I saw the cyanide tanks ;
indeed, I followed the ore in its manufacture until the
gold was ready to go to the bank. This compound, which
was connected with a mine under the control of an
entirely different group of the " nauseous " brood of
Johannesburg's gold-lords, was neat and clean. Here
there were only twenty-five men in one dormitory ; but
of course the cubic air-space was less than where sixty
slept in one room. Here, too, there was an exceUent
hospital, and I saw the cooUes at work — and they were
at work with a wiU. I saw a gang shovelUng out the
sand from a cyanide tank, and they were shovelUng with
more strength and " go " than any gang of English
workers would, even if they had been under a ganger's
eye. These men were earning two shilUngs a day. The
manager, an intelUgent man, who, of course, looked at
the matter from his own point of view, said the Chinese

174 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
were better in health and strength than when they
arrived, and that that was due to good food, hot and
cold water on tap, and regular work. Here I was much
struck by the Uttle Chinese gardens. The coolies had
been out into the veldt and had got some of the bright
veldt flowers, and had planted these in tin cans and the
Uke, and these made a Uttle oasis in the bare barrack-
yard of the compound. Now, when they take to
gardening under these difficulties they are not miserably
unhappy ; ^ and as for their vices, they have some virtues,
or they could not become friends with these innocent
flowers. In the hospital at this compound there was
one case of enteric. The man lay in a clean, cool bed,
which was surrounded with a musUn-like curtain to
keep the flies from his hot suffering. This fact struck
me, for I went through the hospital of a London work
house once, and the face of one of the poor patients was
black with flies, and he was so near death that he could
not raise a hand to drive them away. There was mercy
in the lace-like curtain.
• Arrangements are being made at some of the compounds for a
Chinese theatre.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 175

XXXV
I HAVE usually seen Johannesburg from a vehicle — for
every one drives here — but the way to become acquainted
with any place is to go on foot. One day I really studied
the town. In the morning I went to the highest point
of this exceptionally high town, a point at the Yeovil
reservoir 5960 feet above sea-level. This is the vertebrae
of Africa. A little further to the north-east there is a
very diminutive meteorological observatory. From this
hill the view is very fine. The Bezuidenhout vaUey with
Doornfontein is at your feet. The Rand, with its white
heaps of taiUngs and its fiags of smoke, is stretched out
before you to the horizon east and west. The grand
Magaliesberg range is a panorama of hiUs away to the
north. You are now above the business, above the dust,
above the greed, of Johannesburg, and the town looks
its best. Afterwards, not through the telescope of clear
air, but through the microscope of nearn^s, I saw some
thing of the town. I walked through some of the streets.
I had thought that Commissioner Street and Pritchard
Street exhausted the town. But I was wrong ; there were
other groups. A witty visitor said he could not see Com
missioner Street for Jews' noses, but the statement is

176 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
exaggerated. I made the acquaintance of Joubert Park ;
the overawing fort, now a prison run on somewhat
squaUd lines ; of a location on the way to Paarls Hoop,
or Langlaagte, where that uncanny visitor the plague
had been recently in awful evidence. I did not wonder
that there had been a condemnation of a certain area as
unfit for human habitation. I think the executive might,
for health's sake, have used a larger sponge to this
congeries of rotten biscuit-tins. But, on the whole, the
first impression, of a town made in a hurry, of wealth
made in a hurry fiowing without the careful guiding
hand of taste for its irrigation works, remained with me.
Much has to be done. The country wants time, and it
requires to take time. What we ought to pray for is
that it should, as the Scotch say, " Ca' canny," and hope
that its booming days are over, and that the steady march
of progress has begun.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 177

XXXVI
Eailways — more railways. The fact is, Africa is too
large. Johannesburg and Rhodesia suffer because they
are so far from the sea. If the Witwatersrand or
Middleburg coalfield had been as near the sea as the
Rhondda Valley is, they would have been doubly
endowed with minerals and transit. But where we have
such an extent of territory the necessity for railways
becomes urgent. Gold may be able to get to the coast ;
coal from Dundee is shipped at Durban for bunker
purposes ; even copper, which is found near the Limpopo,
may overcome the difficulty of long raUway carriage and
high freight ; but less valuable products vdU be tied to
the place of their producbion, or bebhered with the short
rope of railway rate. I have some experience of the
raUway question, as it puts itself to you in England.
Here the question is different, bub urgenb. That lands
require not only water, but raUways for their successful
and profitable cultivation, is not to be questioned.
Farmers want, not farms only, but markets. Out of
the £35,000,000 which was raised after the war, some
£12,000,000 was, I think, spent in acquiring the raUways. N

178 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
The policy of the State was to become the owners of these
roads. Well, there is something to be said for State
raUways. Bub now it seems that a change has come
over the poUcy, The whole of the £35,000,000 has been
spent, and more railways are wanted. Now the Govern
ment propose to grant concessions to companies and
individuals to make raUways. One great firm has been
bargained with. It is to raise the money for constructing
the railway, and to enjoy a preference in connection with
the carriage of its coal for fifteen years. Beggars must
not be choosers, and even begging governments who desire
other people to finance their enterprises must pay for the
money. Talking of raUways and raUway poUtics, there was
quite a little breeze in the country whUe I was there.
A line had been promised from Rustenburg through
Krugersdorp to Johannesburg. Then a change came over
the view of the Inter-Colonial Council, the Rustenburg
line was to be carried to Pretoria, and Krugersdorp was
to be left out in the cold. That was more than
Krugersdorp could stand, and the inhabitants in meeting
assembled, protested. The Chamber of Commerce of
Johannesburg was also loud-mouthed. Lord MUner
telegraphed, suggesting a postponement of the Krugers
dorp meeting and an interview. The interview was
assented to, but a telegram wUl not stop a meeting in
full "spate," and it was held, and somewhat peremp
tory resolutions were passed. How this tea-cup storm
passed I do not know. But the moral is, that the

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 179
country requires more raUways, and cannot get them
unless capital can be got to settle there. And yet
there are some short-sighted people who want South
Africa to turn the cold shoulder to money and men
who have it.

180 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

XXXVII
There was quite a sensation in Johannesburg one day
while I was there. Of course, there were sensations every
day, for the market was strong — there were no long faces,
nothing but a tendency to broad grins. Men who had
been absent from the honey-pots returned. The clubs
were full ; you were asked what you would have to drink.
You knew then that things were better. Of course, these
were sensations, but the one that I especially refer to was
the black rumour that Lord Milner was about to resign.
Some one had had a private lebber from some one else, and
reading bebween bhe lines, ib made ib cerbain. Here was
a calamiby. Ib would deprive bhe Liberal parby of their
only poUcy in South Africa, which is " the recaU of Lord
MUner." How woiUd they save their poor faces now if
Lord MUner sUpped through their fingers ? They would
in every respect have to continue the poUcy of to-day
on precisely the same lines. This was very mean of Lord
MUner. LuckUy, the rumour has not been confirmed,
but it is qmte certain that his ExceUency wiU not give
a new party the chance which it craves. This is not
the place to estimate the worth of a great pubUc servant
— time wUl do that when his hard office is filled by a

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 181
mediocrity. He is a man of work, of sense, of will, and
if ever there was a country that requires government
by strength and integrity, it is South Africa to-day.
Sunnyside is nob bhe place for a fooL Bub I would Uke
to see how the Liberals, when they get the power, wUl
replace the strength and wisdom of Lord Milner, who
wUl, I suspect, be only too wUUng, after his long term
of arduous work, to be " repatriated."

182 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

XXXVIII
One day, as in duty bound, I visited Pretoria, leaving
Johannesburg on a perfect summer morning, and crawUng
by train via Germiston to the capital of the Transvatal.
It is not an interesting journey at the best of times, bub
when the thermometer stands at 80° in the shade it is
trying. There is a standing feud between Pretoria and
Johannesburg as to their cUmates. Johannesburg, rather
a boastful town and always jingUng its money in its
pockets, says it has the finest climate in the world.
Pretoria admits that in its nest of hUls it is hot in sum
mer, but in winter its climate is perfect. No one who
has lived in Pretoria, you are told, would care to reside
in Johannesburg. This quarrel about their weather is
perennial. Approaching Pretoria through the green hiUs,
crowned by red forts, we saw a grove of mimosa trees in
fuU fiower, golden to the finger-tips ; and the sky scenery,
returning in the breathless evening, with its crimsons
and purples, its yellows and its blues, was sufficient to
take one's aesthetic breath away. I have seldom seen a
more lavish sunset. But so far, we had only arrived at
the town in its hole in the hUls — a hole which was too
hot that day. By the courtesy of a gentleman, whose

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 183
acquaintance was one of the objects of my visit to
Pretoria, we had a pleasant lunch, and I made bhe ac
quaintance of one that, if time had permitted, I would
have liked to caU friend, I was entertained— — As I am
nob an " interviewer," I have no right bo make " copy " of
my host or the pleasant people round his luncheon table.
By his kindness, I was conducted over the Law courts,
a rather handsome structure with a fine, cool, shady
central haU, and in all ibs corridors a conservabory of
coolness. In Sir Richard Solomon's room I saw all bhe
" Law Reporbs " in irreproachable calf. I saw bwo of bhe
judges brying a case wibh witnesses, as if the case had
had the importance of a trial at Bar. I am told that they
mostly have three judges upon such trivial occasions,
whUe similar actions are tried at Johannesburg by one
judge. They have evidently a margin of judge power
at Pretoria. It was of one of these most learned judges,
whose acquainbance I did nob make (the country, like
Ireland, swarms with absentees), that it was said that
no one questioned the conscientiousness of his decisions,
but what they took exception to was the indecision of
his conscientiousness. It may be a Ubel, but it is
witty. Having tasted the law courts and made the pleasant
acquaintance of a gentleman who occupies the same
relation to the Attorney-General there, bhab bhe Advocabes
Depube do bo the Lord Advocate in Scotland, we then
set out to see the town. The square is a square with an
old and ugly church in its centre. The church is now

184 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
being taken down, and a day or two after our visit a
portion of the tower feU through the organ — a rift which
would make its asthmatical music mute. They say it is
being taken down because it is unsafe. Most churches
are unsafe in our days, even financially unsafe, like the
United Free Church.
The town has none of the staring, dazzling, taiUng
heaps which assault the eye in Johannesburg. It is more
a town of Uttle shops and residential suburbs. We went
and saw Kruger's house, now the "Presidency Hotel,"
a house which indicates the late President's pretentious
modesty. Then to the racecourse, where there were at
one time seventeen hundred British prisoners, the results
of " regrettable incidents." One of these ingenious persons
wriggled an escape from this prison in a way which has
become historic. We saw Proclamation HiU, and then
drove through the green and flowering suburbs on the
other side of the town. Here it was all gardens. Olean
ders were blooming everywhere. Huge palms fanned
Government House. There was a green shade in many
places Ughted with the Chinese lanterns of flowers —
flowers of which I do nob know bhe names, but they
looked at me, and I have them in memory. This is to
Johannesburg what Washington is to New York. I
think it well that the quiet seat of government should
be removed some miles from the "madding crowd." I
liked to see the hUls round the town, for that was Uke
home. There we don't build our towns on the camel-
humps of ridges.

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 185
On the way back to Johannesburg, four or five Boers
came into the carriage with us. My ears pricked, but
they for the most part talked a language beyond the reach
of my eavesdropping. StUl, I was anxious to understand,
and some water dripped from their flowing rone into
my bucket. There was one typical Boer with a reddish
beard, who had very little EngUsh, but was eloquent
and gesticulating in Dutch. He had been a commander,
and had led the Boers of the Wet laager — there was
great amusement over that, so I book ib bhab bhere was
an ambush joke in ib, probably referring bo drink — and
who claimed bo have secured bhe vicbory ab Spion Kop,
which I believe in history's ledger has been wrongly
credited to another account. I know that the Boers were,
according to him, retreating when he waved them on,
said it was Ufe or death, and that then they cUmbed the
hiU ("Do you call it ' cUmbed ' ? " he asked of an EngUsh
friend), and the British scooted. There was another
rather thick-necked Boer, with a red face, who was
" firmer on his pins " so far as EngUsh was concerned.
He greeted uproariously "Erasmus," a big man, and
pulled him into bhe carriage and made him sit down, and
bhe sbory of Spion Kop was gone over again, and the
leader of the commando, with great i^ovement of the
arms and slapping of his friends' knees, "showed how
fields were won." The EngUsh-speaking Boer had been a
scout, he told me, for ten months, xmder Lucas Meyer,
and, from his showing, he had put Lucas Meyer righb on
many occasions. Lucas Meyer was, according bo him, a

186 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
brave man, but no general. They were all merry and
excited over these reminiscences, which might, had I
understood them more, have been gall and wormwood
to my pride ; but as it was, I took them in good part. I
had met many soldiers at home who had seen less fighting
than this leader of the " nach " or " wet laager," who had
been even more scathing in their criticisms, and I remem
bered having heard the recitation of " BUI Adams," of how
"me and the Dock of WeUington won the battle of
Waterloo." These Boers, or one of bhem, had a farm on
which gold had been found, and he was quibe aUve to the
new situation. But they were, on the whole, excellent
gentlemen of a rough-cast type. They reminded me of
Scotch farmers. They are, as I know, a law-abiding
people. The crime which is dealt with in the handsome
courts I had seen at Pretoria, and the make-shift palace
of justice in Johannesburg, was crime committed by
blacks and blacker whites, not by Boers. I don't suppose
that, with memories of war so recent, they love us ; but
I think for the most part they are prepared to settle down
with us, if the vaulting ambition of certain leaders who
demand responsible government wiU leave them alone.
Although they can make their scrambling war weU, they
don't Uke it; they like their farms, their heavy leisure,
their slow wives, and their children. One of them
showed me a photograph of his plump son, "seven
months old," which he had in his bag ; and I congratu
lated him. It is that good tough stuff that citizens are
made of, far more than out of the mercurial speculator

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 187
in gold claims or the exploiter of diamonds. It only
wants a spell of peace to make them loyal in heart —
as loyal as the French Canadians are bo-day. The pride
in Spion Kop is no unworthy memory. I liked my Boer
companions better than a carriage full of "spry" Eng
lishmen. Veneer is vulgar.

188 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

XXXIX
If you look carefully at the barometer and the ther
mometer, you will discover that South Africa never can
be a white man's country in the sense in which England
or the State of Massachusetts is. It is quite true that
people praise the cUmate, perhaps on the principle
that we praise those most who have most need of praise.
But there are some facts which stagger our convictions in
that respect. Lungs and hearts which have been accus
tomed to a barometer at from 29° to 30°, are tried by one
at 24° to 23°, A thermometer at from 32° Fahrenheit bo
50° or 60° our blood understands, bub when it is up at
80° or 90° we deliquesce. Now, it seems bo be a fact
that in all tropical or sub -tropical countries. Englishmen
and Americans and even Dutchmen, if it was not in
their slow sturdy nature before, get lazy, not, I think,
because there is any moral change in them, but because,
physicaUy, the frame which has attuned its muscles to
temperate skies is out of tune in the tropics. I do not
say that the Englishman does not think in the Trans
vaal, but he does not " work " with his muscles, and in
that he is like the Dutchman. Col. de Villebois

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 189
MareuU, who had exceptional opportunities of observing
the Boers, says in his book, a series of snapshots of a
desultory war, " The cUmate here Umits activity ; one
has to make a greater effort than in Europe to produce
an identical result. Walking is painful ; the legs become
weak; physical labour cannot be continued without
great determination. One cannot deny that there is
physical depression." And on another page he says,
" The Boer osciUates during his life between journeys and
repose." I do not say that the white man can do no
physical labour, but he does it with difficulty. His past
has apprenticed him to places where results can be
attained with more moderate exertion. He can overlook
others at work, he can manage, devise, scheme and the like,
but there is in all such cUmates a physical disinclination
to continuous muscular exertion. The Dutch sit on their
steeps and see the African do the work, Johannes-
burgers cannot walk. Once a week they may play
tennis upon red courts made of Uve ant-heaps — I
wonder what anti-vivisectionists would say to that —
but they are incapable of susbained muscular effort, and
it is because of that fact that white labour in the mines,
as a permanent expedient, is impossible. But the same
statement is true of aU tropical or sub-tropical countries.
Take the tropical states of America, where slavery had
its not uncomfortable home. There the white man can
command, but not work. Since slavery has been abol
ished they have re-introduced into these states a kindred
institution. They compel the blacks to work when they

190 SOUTH AFEICA : A GLANCE AT
are convicted under the long arm of the vagrancy laws.^
It is this curious physical condition which negatives
the probability of South Africa being a white man's
country in the ordinary sense of the word. Here we
can be nothing but a conquering, a commanding, a
governing class. There is not any real foundation for the
beUef in a race antipathy between the dark and the fair
race. It is said that a white man will not do the work
of the black man, and that if he does he loses caste. It
it is the caste of nature he loses. He is one of the
conquerors. He never can be on an equaUty with the
native who is hand and glove with the cUmate. I beUeve
the Chinese, who call us foreign devUs, have more con
tempt for the white man than the black man has.
Indeed, the black man has many good qualities. He has
a happy disposition, his features are always running to
an oUy grin ; he desires to go and talk to " Mama ; "
he Ukes to get back to the kraal, and there to indulge in
lounging leisure. AU these things, although some of
them stand in the way of employers who want " hands,"
are to his credit. But his race has been under these
tropical conditions for centuries. His skin shows it.
He can labour in the heat of bhe day, the white man
cannot. A simUar problem has been raised for solution in the
hot regions of Queensland, where there are sugar planta
tions to be worked. For a long time these were worked
' In the ironworks of one large firm in a Southern State no fewer than
2000 convicts, which are leased from the State, are employed.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 191
successfully by Kanaka labour. But Australia had got
an idea that its continent should be a white man's
continent, and that the labour on these plantations should
be kept for white men. This policy was run under the
banner inscribed with " White Australia." The planta
tions which had indentured Kanaka labour were allowed
to work with that low-class labour to the end of the term
in the indenture, but after that only white men were to
be employed. It was an ideal poUcy, but it has faUed.
The whites cannot work the plantations, and Queensland
wUl probably take some extreme measures in the direc
tion of secession if it is not allowed to solve its own
local labour problem for itself, if it is coerced by the
sentiments elsewhere as to the employment of the
servants that are essential to its life and its prosperity.
We may learn something as to the labour problem in
South Africa from the results of this sentimental experi
ment in Australia. But there are physical laws which
regulate these things, and our Statute Book must not try
to reverse these.

192 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

XL

There is only one colony in South Africa that has not
got a problem, and a problem to a country is like a thorn
in the flesh of a Christian ; it makes for uneasiness and
discontent. The only problemless colony is Natal, and
it is prosperous and happy. It has agriculture, it has
sugar plantations, it has coal pits and a port, and if these
and a good deal of coolie labour will not make a country
happy, nothing will.
One might have thought that Rhodesia was too young
to have a " problem," but I suppose it is the fashion in
countries as it is in plays. The problem in Rhodesia is
one of loggerheads between the Chartered Company and
the inhabitants. Just as in the Transvaal, the problem
of government is the handing over responsible govern
ment to the whites, many of whom are Boers, and many
of them undesirables; just as in Cape Colony the problem
is one of struggle between the EngUsh and the Bond ; so
here in Rhodesia there is a question bebween the people
and the Chartered Company. Rhodesia adopted the con
stitution of Cape Colony, and consequently here the black
men have votes. So, of course, have the blacks in Virginia;
but the exercise of the franchise by these there, is largely

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 193
qualified by a free display of revolvers at the polling
booths. It is wonderful how despotism is tempered to
the shorn serf by assassination ; and so free instibubions
may work well, even in a counbry where bhe blacks pre-
dominabe, if the whites use force. The problem seems,
however, to be getting acute in this rich province. Ib
began wibh inflabed prospecbs. Ib has been over-buUt in
the towns, over-capitaUzed, and over-machined (the
batterus, mining plant) in the mines and works, and the
results have hitherto been disastrous. Rhodesia thought
ib was going bo be a second Rand, and bhe Sbock Exchange
won'b look at it. They invent stories from time to time
to amuse and excite the capitalists, but they have been
" once bit," and although bhe recenb discovery of bankeb
may be beUeved in, the question whether the gold is in it
in sufficient quantities to make it worth working, is still
undetermined. The gold in Rhodesia, up to the present,
has not been found in ascertainable quantities. It is
found in pockets, and is, in a sense, a lucky bag, while it
is a business in Johannesburg.
Agriculturally, Rhodesia has a prospect, although
in this direction it has its plagues to fear — the rinder
pest, horse-sickness, and coast fever. Under these cir
cumstances the people turn upon the sanguine Chartered
Company and rend them. Of course, the Company had
given the country a legislative council. That is an
excellent thing for home consumption, but as the
Company could always outvote the elected members,
bhe boon was nob so greab as ib seemed. Now when
0

194 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
the people have very little power and a big deficit,
when the Company wants to be paid back £5,000,000
they have spenb, and to raise another £3,000,000, which
is to be expended in developing the country, it is nob
surprising bhab at a recent conference at SaUsbury the
delegates of the people declared their conviction that no
progress could be made in Soubhern Rhodesia so long as
bhe Charbered Company had any conbrol of pubUc affairs.
The simple problem is, What is to be done ? The people
want to govern themselves. But there is a mere sprink-
Ung of whites, some 12,600, to a large black population,
some 591,000. How is the handful to rule ? It has been
suggested that Rhodesia should be annexed to the Trans
vaal, but that is quite an unpalatable proposition to the
people of Rhodesia. Others say that it should be made
a Crown Colony, but the name Crown Colony is not
Uked in South Africa. Many complaints are made of
railway rates, the lines here being in the hands of private
enterprise. But that " high rates '' are ruining the country
is the beUef of every country that has railways. The
real solution of the problem here, is a solution that only
time can effect. If they will only go slow they wiU go
far, but they are all in such a hurry in South Africa.
If they can only live with the British South] Africa
Company in the meanwhUe, if they wUl think more
of developing their great resources by the direct means
of industry instead of the indirect means of politics,
if they wUl be conbenb bo look bo bhrift for bheir
wealth instead of to booms, all may yet be well with

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 195
Rhodesia. Men with cool heads and clear eyes can see
a great future for the colony. In our view diamonds
wiU be found. Already copper is being developed. The
Victoria falls wUl attract tourists. I beUeve that the
plague period is past, and that agriculture wUl flourish.
And I was nob ab all surprised bo hear, on excellenb
authority, that Rhodesia has the finest climate in the
world.

196 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT

XLI
Of course the equaUty of all men in the sight of God
is a cardinal principle of the Christian religion, which
common sense will not swaUow. Here, whUe that is the
foundation of the law, there are many instances in which,
as we have seen, the fundamental doctrine is not acted
upon. Black men are nob free bo drink spirituous liquors.
There is, too, in this free country a bye-law by which
niggers are not aUowed to walk on the side-walks. Well,
that, it is true, is not much of a hardship, for the road is
generally better than the footpath. But, of course this is
the smaU end of the tyrannous wedge, according to some.
There is now a proposal made to prohibit black men
riding on bicycles on the streets. I wonder how he is to
get about at aU ? In raUway trains, " of course " they
are not aUowed to travel in the same carriage as the
white man. Yet the black boy sits in a gig or buggy
beside the mUlionaire's white daughter. These anomaUes
still exist.
Ab one mine I visibed, a Mr. G  was the manager.
He was an American, and, I beUeve, was an able man,
and he had a lynx eye. He was, however, a bit of a
martinet, and kept exceUent order in the mine and

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 197
compound. The sjambok, ornamented with brass wire,
which he always carried, was more for show than for use.
(Perhaps it is a Uttle bit of affectation, like the small cane
which a distinguished officer even bears with him into a
drawing-room.) But this mine manager has method.
There was a servant of the company he served who was,
in the view of the directorate, an undesirable, and the
managing director was anxious to get rid of him. Some
one advised him to give Mr. G  only a hint, and, he
added, " That undesirable, I guess, wUl be homesick for a
place he has never seen." I am given to understand it
worked, so Mr. G  has, probably, a sjambok in his
character. There are chestnuts in Africa, and perhaps that is one.
But here is another. A Hottentot was going to be hanged,
and they asked him how he would like to spend his last
moments. Not being a hypocrite, and not having a
prison chaplain's eye upon him, he said he would like to
smoke, and they humoured him. He smoked industri
ously until ib was bime bo draw bhe ugly cowl over his
face, shorbly bo be disborbed by ibs lasb expression, and
then, with a long puff, he put the pipe down in a corner
of the scaffold. The horrible ceremony was proceeded
with, and just before the bolt was drawn a reprieve
arrived in the nick of time. The cap was taken off, his
pinioned arms were freed, and he stooped at once and
picked up his pipe. He tried if it was aUght, but it was
out, and he said, bitterly, " that with all their tomfoolery
they had let his pipe out." As I say, I cannot vouch for

198 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
the story, but it has some inherent credentials. I was told
another, which iUustrates, if it is true, the wealth-hunger
of this great province of the empire. A friend of mine
bought in a shop a copy of Hazlitt's " Essays," and the
gentleman who stood by him whUe he made the pur
chase asked, " What on earth are you going to do with
that ? " The books in this country are mostly novels.
There is only one pursuit — stocks and gold, and the man
who succeeds in the quest is thought highly of; the
man who fails, even to the charitable, is " a rotter." I
have known cases where conscience led to failure, and
where the want of it has been a highway to Park Lane.
That is where good South Africans go to when they die
to the colony. Here is an instance which has to do with
diamonds. CecU Rhodes said that £5,000,000 was the
annual capacity of the world to absorb diamonds. That
was the saturation point of society. Where the art of the
diamond trade comes in is in the sorting. If you see, as
you can in Johannesburg or Kimberley, hundreds of dia
monds, amongst them there are almost as many sorts or
kinds of diamonds, and it is in the sorting out of these
that the skill comes in, and much time has to be expended
in making the selection. Now for the not very creditable
story. It is said that a certain diamond king heard that
another great financier had a very fine lot of diamonds.
He threw himself in the latter's way, and said he would
like to see his diamonds. " Come away," said the other,
unsuspecting, on this occasion, for once in his life, and he
led the diamond king into his safe place, where all the

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 199
diamonds had been sorted. "Magnificent!" said the
great man when he saw the diamonds, and he added,
"1 say, let us see the lob in a buckeb," and his friend
humoured him, and bhe diamonds were swepb into the
bucket. Robert Louis Stevenson's water-bucket, which
stood beside the wall at nighb, " was half full of waber and
stars," bub here was a buckeb half full of sbars. The greab
man, Uke a child, seemed to bathe his hands in the mU
lions, and then went away and placed his own diamonds
on the market, whUe his obUging competitor was delayed
for a long time, because he had to have his diamonds
sorted again, and then he came too late, for the public had
absorbed the £5,000,000 worth. Now, that story is told
with gusto. I myself woiUd not like to have diamond
kings for my friends if they do such things. But the
moral tone here is not high. Every one wiU tell you
bhab bhe Sbate was corrupt in Boer hands before the war,
but I suspect it takes two to make a corrupt bargain.
When the mine-owners desired a certain law to pass at
Pretoria, did they bribe? If they did, they have the
excuse that the necessities of the trade made the repeal
of the restriction absolutely necessary. So money went
to Pretoria, and was discreetly distributed, and the
measure became law. I beUeve — although I need scarcely
say no amount of cross-examination can get at the inner
conscience — that these men fear and anticipabe bhab;
bhrough bhe sbeps of represenbative and responsible
government, the rule of the Boer will return. The Boers
know whab bhey wanb, and bhese are the kind of people

200 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
to get it. It may be slowly, but surely. The whites in
the Transvaal are divided. Many of them may side with
the Boers against the Progressives, and so the British
race is weak before the ballot-box. Many able men have
informed me that it will come ; some, who temporize, want,
as they say, "to postpone the evU day." The hope of
those I have been in contact with is, that the Boer would
not, in power, prevent the employment of Chinese labour.
They would tax — they would blackmail the gold lords,
and I beUeve the gold lords are prepared to revert
to the practices of corruption that existed before the war.
The Boers have a motbo, "If weak — scheme," And if
the mine-owners lost the power, they would, I fear, bribe.
The moral atmosphere of the Transvaal is one in which
corruption would grow, as fungi do in the dark damp of
a cellar. There is one labour problem that I have not touched
upon, and that is the question of domestic service. A
German hairdresser in Johannesburg told me he would
not think of going home. "Here," he said, "you have
a few pounds in your pocket, there a few pennies." The
cook of a friend, an excellent cook that he had brought
from England with him, declined to return with him.
She was going to better herself. A lady friend said she
was at her wit's end. She paid £12 a month to her
cook, and she was sure she would not be able to keep
her. The bachelors of Johannesburg, she said, spoiled
the domestic servant market. A lady, with whom I
lunched, told me that their servants cost £850 a year.

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 201
Her cook got £12 a month, and an Indian who waited
£7 a month, while in India he would have earned £1 a
month. " The fact is," she said, " Uving is so expensive
that we have to spend our whole income." But they
were doing it royaUy. Even in these quarters the race
question puzzles. There was, while I was in the country,
a meeting at Potchefstroom to express disapprobation
(with, I think, the adjective " extreme ") and censure on
those property-owners who, for the purposes of gain (that,
you see, is a crime in South Africa), rent stores and
land to Asiatics, thus depreciating the value of adjoining
property (there human nature comes in), and aiding
the cooUe in unequal competition. Now, the Indian is
our own feUow-countryman, and ib is brue he is largely
employed in Soubh Africa, bub here is whab Mr. Loveday
said ab bhe meeting — " They had already more blacks in
the country than they could conveniently govern, and
it would be well if maudlin gentlemen across the sea
remembered that South Africa was not in the sweetest
of tempers at the present bime (cheers). Those who had
been in arms againsb one anobher, would be as one in
keeping up bhe barrier in self-preservation."
From this I can gather that neither is the temper of
South Africa sweet, nor ibs manners good ab bhe presenb
bime. I do nob stop to inquire who the maudlin gentle
men across the sea are. But here again you have the
question of a white South Africa cropping up. There
are many Indian coolies in the country. The waiters
at the clubs, the men who sell provisions on raUway

202 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
platforms, servants in private houses, and, so far as I could
observe them, they did their work well. They are deft,
quiet servants. But here we find that an Asiatic who
competes with a white man is resented; that the man
who sells or rents land to him for gain is looked upon
as a traitor; and that his competition with white men
is regarded as unequal. It is the same question every
where. In South Africa, in America, in AustraUa, and
in England. For we at home, wUl we not have an AUens
Bill again in the ensuing session ?

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 203

XLII
It is bhe sky bhab is bhe besb feabure of this high table
land of Africa. Any one could tell fr'om looking at its
rocky knuckles that this was a mineral country. Every
where the rocks are " out at elbow," and you can study
geology everywhere, whUe at home you have to resort to
where a quarry has made a wound in bhe hillside, or a
raUway cubbing has sliced the country. But although
the threadbareness of the land is, to some extent, repel
lent—for even bhe beaubiful veldb flowers, which light the
land, grow upon bare arid places, and, it is nob as at home,
when on a summer morning "you cannot see the grass
for flowers " — stUl, the skies never disappoint. The sun
shine is spread, like a cloth of gold, everywhere, and it
is sunshine which makes the minimum of shadow. Even
when the brows of the heaven darken and indigo clouds
loU round the horizon, there is the redeeming illumination
of the lightning flash. It is true when that is the sky's
condition you have rain, and the drops wiU splash
through your clothing, and drum like drum-sticks on the
roof. In a very short time the streets have become red
rivers, and the water sweeps down these, making this
arid town for the nonce a sudden Venice. But these

204 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
tantrums do nob lasb long. The clouds are huddled away
behind bhe horizon, the blue sky is again over all, the
sun comes out and begins to scorch again, the floods
subside, and the Rand is, Uke Ararat, the first dry of all
the peaks after the downpour. But you should see the
gardens hold up their heads after these watery events
happen. All the gardens in Johannesburg have a new
look. The hedges of some kind of gum tree have grown
four feet high in two and a haK years. But everything
looks recent in this town, which is not out of its teens.
As I say, aU the contents of the garden ground
rejoice when the rain has fallen. It is because they
are total abstainers so long that when they get a chance
they drink deep. If you bring away no other impres
sion from South Africa, you cannot come without the
abiding one of its beautiful skies, its soft fresh morning,
and ibs breathing sweetness after rain.

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 205

XLIII
Land settlement for South Africa was the happiest idea,
but it has had the sorriest results. The State, we know
upon authority, fares Ul " when wealth accumulates and
men decay," and it fares even worse when aU the wealth
is derived from one source or industry, and when that
industry is of a precarious nature Uke gold-mining. To
apply the men to the land, that was the problem ; and
the Government, which tries its hand at everything in
these days, put its hand very deep into the tax-payer's
pocket for the purpose of Imperial settlement in the
Transvaal and Orange River Colony. I believe that
something like three milUons have been spent in an
endeavour to plant Englishmen and Scotchmen and their
famiUes on the Crown lands, but the results are ridicu
lously and disproportionately small. A few farms are
in the hands of Englishmen and colonials, who have
come from other South African colonies ; a few of the
farms thus offered have tempted royaUst farmers from
Cape Colony, who had been under the boycotting rule
of the Bond, to move further north ; but the real land
settlement cannot with any propriety of language be
said to have begun. The farmers who were offered farms,

206 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
and who were expected to be small capitalists with
from £300 upwards, were not like the Dutch m their
own country and at home. They were all sojourners
in a strange land. They came here, and were wiUing
to settle with the same idea that actuates every one in
South Africa of British, German, or American extraction
— the idea of making money. If they had been con
tent, like the Dutchman, to Uve on and by their farm,
to enjoy their afternoons on their steeps, to see the
black man do the work as the Boer does, then here
Government offered them a paradise ; bub bo make a
farm pay you musb give the farmer a market as well
as a farm, and that element was left out of the settle
ment scheme. One hears on various hands, of men who
have made an honest effort to farm profitably for as
much as two or three years, who are throwing up their
farms on the ground that it is not a farming country.
There is something wrong in this, for the land only
wants water and a little labour, and it becomes a garden.
Anywhere it wUl, if you wUl plant rightly, grow potatoes
and apples and apricots and pears and figs. MeaUes
will, if you will let them, grow Uke a weed. Tobacco,
cotton, almost anything wUl grow. It is not the land
that is at fault, it is the men. It is in the country as
in the towns, all the people talk of " going home." Even
people who have never been in England use that dear
word. It has become the fashion of the southern con
tinent. I don't think any such phrase is in the mouth
of Canada. They have warm hearts there for the old

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 207
country, but Canada is home. When the men who work
in South Africa are men who have been bom in it ; when
the deep roots of association have got their hold upon
the land ; when bhe populations are no longer mere birds
of passage, here to-day to make a fortune and gone
to-morrow to spend it elsewhere ; when people who from
South Africa visit England, talk about going home
when they turn their faces to the South ; then there will
be a chance for land settlement, for I beUeve the first
and best tie of the farmer to the land is not what he
can make out of it, but that he Ukes the life, loves the
land, and enjoys the employment. That this class, if
it could be created, would be a real human backbone
for the cotmtry is not to be doubted. At the present
time the vertebrae in the Orange River Colony and the
Transvaal is the Boer population. It will take time
to create an EngUsh people with its roots in South
African soU. The experiments which have so far failed
have shown that such a population must be " born, not
made." We must wait until the children of the colony
have become the men of the colony. It is a long time
to look forward to in a colony, which is nothing if it is
not impatient.

208 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT

XLIV
The law's delay is known at home, but it is suffered
here. The Supreme Court rises on December 1, and
resumes business on March 1. But I had not time
to follow the intricacies of their legal system, or
the niceties of Roman-Dutch law, although I visited
the fine courts at Pretoria. One of these, where sum
monses were disposed of, and in which advocates appear
in gowns, even in hot weather, is large enough for a
court in lane or a cause celebre, and is very different
from the crowded scramble of Judges' Chambers up
Chancery Lane. But I had an opportunity of being
present at bhe proceedings of a Special Tribunal ap-
poinbed bo determine what was to be paid by the Rand
Water Board for the three water undertakings, which were
purchased under the Ordinance of 1904. DeUberation
was not the name for the progress made. When the
tribunal sat, no one seemed ready to go on. The most
distinguished members of the South African Bar were
there, representing various interests, but although the
tribunal wanted to " push on " to a finish, the counsel
had "no instructions." They could not cross-examine,
they would do their best to put in an answer in a week.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 209
and reaUy ample time now, would save time in the
end. Every one knows the cogent reasons for delay —
and as a fact a snaU's progress would be a poor simile
to Ulustrate the rate at which, with long pauses, that
inquiry proceeded. Witnesses of great importance had
not left England, because they had not been asked to
do so. Other witnesses were "all over the place,"
which, I take it, referred to geographical matters, and
not to their coveted testimony. They, the Water Board,
were getting up alternative schemes as the case went
on, and so the matter dawdled on, to the satisfaction
of all, I dare say, except those who had to pay the
expenses of such costly waste of time. But I am told
this is the way in South Africa. They seem to act on
bhe motto that it will be "all righb on bhe nighb," a
piece of wisdom which, in my experience, was a very
dangerous phUosophy in the case of private theatricals.
In the theabricals of courts I cannot conceive that it
works bebber. I have no doubt that that tribunal is
stUl sitting.

210 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

XLV
I had a most interesting, if far too elaborate, lunch
one day at the Gold Fields Hotel with several gentle
men who had all held distinguished positions, either
in court or camp, under the Boer Government. Their
names are household words amongst the inhabitants of
the Transvaal and Orange River Colony, but as I was
the guest of one of them, I have no right to repeat
them here. I complain of the lunch because my host
had ordered too much for us. It was an elaborate
dinner, with asparagus, pine apple, ice, and what not,
at half-past one. The waiters were black, but they
did not make the room look so sombre as the flies.
They were in thousands. One Indian waved a table-
napkin over my head, which led to temporary immunity
from these nuisances, and may have added to my
dignity. The gentlemen I was dining with were pleasant
and inteUigent. They conversed Uke weU-informed
EngUshmen who had grappled with affairs. One, a dis
tinguished general and lawyer, was ab bhe bime reading
Henderson's " Life of SbonewaU Jackson." We discussed
various mabters, and ib was haid to believe that these
men had had their hands at Britain's throat only two

CUREENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 211
or three years ago. I had a real sympathy with men
who had baulked ambitions for their memories, and who
were yet as courteous to me as if we had fought on
the same side in the war which canceUed their hopes.
My host told me that they must have self-govern
ment,^ but assured me that it was nob to be used as a
means of war on England. I suggested to him that
if it were conceded by England, the Dutch population
might use it as means to the realization of their hope —
which cannot be dead — of independence. He assured
me that ib was oub of bhe quesbion. They had had
enough of war. They would nob use their power for
supremacy. This argument, however, may have been
nothing but the "white flag" of earUer days. I do
nob brusb bheir hope, although I beUeve he spoke in
exceUent good faith.
Only the next evening I dined with a gentleman who
had been a distinguished member of the Reform Com
mittee at the time of the Jameson Raid, and who had
suffered for it. There never was a more chUdUke revolu
tion than that, and had not the consequences been so
serious, the brave play of the little tin soldiers, the dis
tribution of a handful of arms at the offices of the Con
soUdated Gold Fields of South Africa, yould have been as
^ I see that the demand for this has been publicly and peremptorily
made by General Louis Botha since I left South Africa. A concession
of responsible government such as they ask at the present time would be
egregious idiocy upon the part of Britain. They will look in vain for
such foolishness even to the party which is led by Sir Henry CampbeU-
Bannerman, notwithstanding what he said at South Queensferry the
other day.

212 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
good a farce as ever was played on the great and generally
solemn stage of history. Nothing gives me a lower
opinion of Africa's one strong man, or the astuteness
and abUity of the people of Johannesburg, than this
burlesque fiasco. My friend and his wife gave a dinner
party at a club, and we sat down, some twenty, after
a thunderstorm of enormous magnitude in sound. The
whole of the north was its theatre, and the great banks
of grey cloud were pUed on the MagaUesberg hills,
and the grumbling of the clouds to these was incessant.
But every now and then a lasso of Ught was thrown
over the whole earth, and the smaUesb of bhings was
caught in it. It rained — as it can do here — drops
moulded in the hands of electricity.
The dinner was elaborate, bub good, only ib was
Uke most hospitality, overdone — not in the cooking,
but in the catering. Such a meal after a strict Lent
might once in a way be forgiven, but coming a few
hours after lunch on a hot day, when appetite is coy,
it was somewhat ridiculous. The table was covered
with beautiful carnations, and each vase had an aureole
of gypsofilan round its head. Everything was of the
best ; champagne and dinner unexceptional. The ladies
in the height (I am nob sure bhab that is the exact
word that describes it) of fashion. The men — some
of them representative men — were as interesting as
Johannesburg could produce. There was a judge, some
of the leaders of the bar, some of the " nauseous
brood " of the Daily News, some high officials, and

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 213
some whose pedestal of distinction was the hollow one
of mines, " This," I said to myself, " is a pioneer state,
and this is pioneering d la Paris." But as they all
played bridge afterwards, with one or two pedantic
exceptions, I thought they were doing their pioneer
ing after the manner of PiccadUly — which is, I suppose,
to these rich and seeking to be rich people, the axis
of the earth upon which the social world visibly, if a
little madly, revolves. But I am nob, having eaten
salt, going to say more about the dinner-party.

214 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

XLVI
I WAS in South Africa during the Kruger obsequies. All
burials are solemn ; this, I suppose, was significant. The
watery march over the sea had ended ; the lying in state
in Cape Town had begun ; " floral tributes," as they are
called, were pouring in. Here was bhe body of bhe greab
dead on ibs way to its native dust. It was expected that
at Cape Town some member of the Government would
show official respect to the remains ; but the Prime
Minister did not, and the only volunteer on the occasion
was a Mr. S., an Irishman. However, the Prime Minister
added to the interest of the occasion by contributing a
joke instead of a " floral tribute," for he said, " I suppose
it is an Irishman's inherent love of a wake that takes S.
to bhe obsequies " — a joke quibe in keeping wibh a funeral.
But, after all, it was a solemn summer journey,
Kruger, as a man, had embodied a great Dutch idea, and
that was national independence. For very'common people,
ideas that are not embodied in the flesh are too fine to
be approached. In all cases the "word must be made
flesh" before the common people understand ib. In
Kruger bhe idea of Dubch rule was subsbanbiaUy embodied,
and was nearly physically realized. It is nob to be

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 215
wondered ab bhab after the ideas have wrestled their
throw, and the idea has proved unequal in arms to the
contrary idea of British supremacy, the people who were
attached to it should regard this as a sad and solemn
funeral, nob only of Kruger, bub of bheir hopes. There
were ab one bime bwo greab forces in Soubh Africa so far
as poUtics were concerned — Kruger and Ehodes. They
are both dead, but although their bodies may " moulder "
in South African soil, thefr souls, like John Brown's, are
stUl on the march. " All great events,'' says Cherbuliez,
in one of his works, "are the victory or defeat of an
idea." And bhere is sbUl bhe greab duel of bendencies
being foughb oub on the soil, which it is no exaggeration
to believe both these men loved. It was therefore exceed
ingly interesting, as it were, to follow with the eye the
body of this man from exile to the grave. Of course
there were varying views of this dead march of Paul.
It takes very little to found a big head-line in a news
paper ; therefore " Eemarkable Demonstration," " The
Last Trek," "Huge Crowd at Bloemfontein," "Wreaths
at Brandford," did nob deceive one. Bub looking below
bhe bempesbuous surface of " head-lines," ib was easy bo
gabher bhat bhere was a solemn inberesb and a reverenb
curiosiby in the lugubrious proceedings of the deUberate
train. There had, ib appeared, been large crowds at
various places. " On Thursday carts were arriving in
Colesburg from all parts of the districts of Colesburg,
Ventresstad, and Philipstown, and an immense crowd
gathered at the station, including many EngUsh." In

216 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
another paper we see, " There was a conspicuous absence
of any attempt at mourning apparel or decoration."
Again, "It is noticeable bhat the people of the Orange
Eiver Colony have only taken what is regarded as a
languid interest in the passing of Kruger." WhUe still
another says, " Kruger was associated with a corrupt
gang; he himself was corrupt and venal, and that his
sole gift to the country is his body."
We confess we think the latter is a strained and
superficial view of a great situation. There is more than
a body here. There was more than a corrupt and venal
politician there. The good is too often " interred " with
a man's bones. But surely to-day even a fighbing news
paper might remember some of the good and the great
of the baffled man. He died rich, but any one wUl tell
you that he must have had some virtue, for otherwise,
with his opportunities, he might have made millions.
He was, perhaps, corrupt, but he must have been much
more to lead for years a people like the Boers. His goal
was greatness, not a bank balance ; and as he proceeds to
his qidet grave, we ought to let polemics resb for a bime.
There surely may be reconcUiabion wibh bhe dead.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 217

XLVII
I MENTIONED the newspapers of the Rand, and although
the distance between these and literature is great, I was
minded to sample South African literature. You do not
know a country until you know its books. I know that
there are as many books about South Africa as there
were battles fought in the last war. But it was not these
cups that I desired to drink dry facts from. It was
suggested that if I would re-read Olive Schreiner's " Story
of a South African Farm," I would get some of the local
colour. Local colour ! There is only one colour, and that
is the colour of life. I re-read the book. It is by a woman
that has seen a good deal with observant eyes, but who
makes far too much of her observant conscience. It is
not a story, although there are a few harrowing incidents
which leave cicatrices on memory — the whipping of
Waldo Farber ; the abuse by the Transport rider, of the
black ox; the death of Lyndall. The humorous scenes,
Uke Tante Sannie's courtships, and Bonaparte Blenkin's
transfer of his mercenary affections, are not humorous.
The German foreman on the farm and his son Waldo
are too good to be true, and too patient to be human.
Thefr misforbunes are meribed by their sUUness, and the

218 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
contempt we feel for them makes impossible the sympathy
which is expected of us. Then there are pages of vapid
aUegory, which are fine writing in a woman's way, but
which only impede the wheels of narrative, which ought
never to stick in the mud of dreams and speculations.
There are talks with conscience, which show that the
conscience in question, instead of being instinct with
healthy feeling, has become hyper-acute like a corn. But
the book, notwithstanding the fact that the writer " shows
off" in every page, is a clever one, and written by a clever
woman, who has thought and felt, and that is the only
apprenticeship for a writer.
Em is human, although her affection is commonplace,
and her fat character is only sketched ; Rose, who marries
her in the end, of course loves Lyndall, as does that
curious combination of lout and genius, Waldo. But
Lyndall is herself incomprehensible. She talks far too
Uke a book ; her philosophy is garrulous and sUly ; she
seems bo be virbue incarnabe, bub she has in her four
years ab school been seduced by an EngUshman, whose
good looks seem bo be his recommendabion, bub who, like
Waldo's sbranger, is a mere shadow in bhe book. She
proposes to marry Rose, although he is engaged to her
cousin Em. Why, Heaven knows ! She wUl not marry
the EngUshman, whom she pretends to love. Why, again.
Heaven knows ! She does not care for the baby she
bears, and which only lived for three hours, although
she gets her death sitting beside its grave. She pretends
to love Waldo, and dies longing for something to worship.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 219
She is a fine character to utter the author's thoughts
and platitudes and elementary science, bub she is not a
woman, and, Uke Charles II., she takes too long to die.
StUl the book is one of some power, and shows that
South African pens can do something in Uterature. Olive
Schreiner shows in places that she understands the colour
of Ufe, but she has been urged on, by the idea of making
Uterature, to giving us dreams which don't interest,
confessions which are long and are only morbid, and
speculations caUed "times and seasons," which have
reaUy nothing to do with the smaU trot of events which
make her story of the farm.

220 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

XL VIII
There are too many hospitalities in Johannesburg. I
have no doubt bhese are dictated in equal parts by
kindness and osbenbabion. Bub bhe facb remains bhab
boo many people give dinner parties, or too many are
kind enough to ask you to those they give. The people
of Johannesburg are very proud of thefr fine houses and
their fine cooks. I had, consequently, to dine out the
evening foUowing that on which I dined at the Pioneer
dinner I have mentioned. Before I could reach the
house of my host — he had sent me a dinner card with
R.S.V.P. on it, which was unnecessary, but nob bhe
name of his house, which was necessary — I had a long
drive bhrough a Johannesburg evening with a perfectly
cloudless sky, an orange tawny west where the day
had gone, a perfect flower-show of stars in the firma
ment, and a soft breeze, which fanned me, but was so
gentle that it did not frritate the dust into eruptions.
It was a perfectly delicious drive in the best part of
the day — its departure. The cabman lost his way to
my friend's house, but I could have forgiven even
greater divagations in such a twiUght. But at last we
got there — the last of the guests. Then came the

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 221
procession of viands. Don't let me lead you to suppose
that there was nothing more. The feast was lavish,
but there were men and women at it. My host and
hostess were particularly intelligent. That in modern
phrase means " up to date " and on the spot, I hope I
contributed my fafr share to the hUarity of the evening
without usurping the ears of all. One anecdote con
tributed by an intelligent but somewhat slow American
took an hour to tell; but it was in the end, as he
would have said, effective. Ib was a sbory of Whistler,
who was at a dinner-party in London, and who, having
profited by the hospitaUby, when bhe bime came bo
smoke, said he woiUd smoke his own cigar if his host
would permit him, and he left the room to get his
cigar-case, which was in the pocket of his over
coat. The other guests heard a noise like a thfrty-ton
truck of coals going down the stafrs, and went out in a
group to see what had happened. They found Whistler
at the foot of the stairs, stUl in a recumbent position,
and he asked his host thickly, " Who was your archi
tect ? " " What do you mean ? " asked his host. " Who
was your architect ? " asked Whistler again, through a
fog. " Smith," said his host, humouring him ; when
Whistler, still on his back, said, " Daijm that teetotaler."
This story, at bhe end of bhe ebernity of telUng, met
with an excellent reception. Another man, fired to
anecdote, told us a tale with a moral. It was told to
a certain man that if he wanted to be happy he musb
secure the shirt of a perfectly happy man and wear it.

222 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
That, after washing, was to secure his feUcity, He
sought long, but could not find the happy man. Men
might laugh, but each had some secret sorrow behind
the mask of a smUe, each had some skeleton in his
cupboard. He almost despafred, until one day he saw
a common workman returning from his work. He
looked happy, he sang as he went home. "At last,"
said the seeker, " I have found the happy man ; " and so
he had, bub bhe workman had no shirt. It was time
to join the ladies.

CURRENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 223

XLIX
The hospitaUties of Johannesburg and its inhabitants,
if I were to write about them, would fill pages. The
cooking of most of the cooks, whose performances I en-
counbered, would ibself be the subject of lengthy enco
miums. I dined one idght with a greab political person,
and another with "a great gold magnate." I think that
is how bhe papers would describe him in his beaubiful
house in Berbramsbown, a house, however, which he is
aboub bo deserb for a new one in Park Town, The
dinner was aU English — excepb bhe cooking, which was
bebber. The bable decorabion of flowers was umbrageous.
The conversation rippled between the last musical play,
which was the Chinese Honeymoon, and Chinese labour.
The manners of our entertainers were English, and good
manners make guests at home. There are, I need
scarcely say, some of bhe plums of scandal in bhe pudding
of conversabion in Johannesburg. Ajje there not women
in Johannesburg — although, perhaps, too few? But of
bhe libble whiffs of nauseous news which reached my
ear I wUl say nobbing. I wUl brave your disappoinb-
ment. Even of the scandal on board the boat on our
return voyage to England, although the public may

224 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
be dying to hear it, I wUl say nothing. I respect my
page too much. The next forenoon I lunched with
another gentleman in a stiU more distant suburb. Here,
again, kindness and a too elaborate lunch met us. If
people were to dine in the middle of the day, the lunch
would have been exceUent in its place, but as it was,
my good manners made me do more eating than is wise
at such an hour. I saw, too, that day a fine collection
of heads and horns of the various antelopes of South
Africa. The horns are beautiful, but the heads, I
always think, smell of the museum. However, I had my
adjectives ready, and it reaUy was an inberesbing col-
lecbion. In the evening, notwithstanding the exuberant
luncheon, I had to dine with a very rising young barrister,
who had asked a distinguished judge and some promi
nent members of the profession to meet me. My host
has only been about bhree years in the colony, but is
afready in receipt of an income which would, if I
mentioned it, induce Pump Court to emigrate. But I
can say this for him, that from his inteUigence and
his painstaking assiduity, he deserves every (penny I
was going to say, but there are no pennies in Johannes
burg) " ticky " of it. There is a curious system of pay
ing large annual rebaining fees to barristers for thefr
services, a practice that does not prevail at home. In
England you can retain the services of a great lawyer
or a great advocate (they are not necessarily the same)
by a general retainer of five or ten guineas. In South
Africa annual sums up to (I have one case in my mind)

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 225
£1500 are paid to retain the offices of a more or less
successful advocate. My host has a beautiful little house
high on the Park Town ridge, with windows which drink
the sunsets. He has neat maid-servants and a cook.
Here, again, the " creature " hospitaUty was respected.
The conversation turned on the Christmas races, diamonds,
the plagues of Africa (they did nob reckon lawyers
amongsb bhem, and bhe ladies had a grudge ab Sfr
Frederick Treves), bub bhey were mosbly ignoranb of
how many plagues there had been in Egypt. Most of
the learned guests, who, like Chaucer's doctor, had not
read much of bhe Bible, bhoughb bhere had been seven
plagues, bub some modesb and non-gambling half-crowns
were laid bhat there had been ten. Ignorance of the
Bible seems to be a matter of pride to lawyers. But
a Dutch Bible was procured from amongst our host's law
books — ib was bhe only one in bhe house — and bhe
quesbion was solved by one of bhe guests who professed
to read Dutch. There were some old bar stories told,
of course, and one of a witty South African judge, who,
knowing more of the man who was being tried, and who
was, in fact, acquitted by the jury, than they did, said
to the man, "You leave the court without any further
stain on your character."
More hospitality. Are hearts better here than at
home; are evenings more tedious, or is ostenbabion a
shade more pronounced ? I ask questions, but had to
accept agreeable hospitalities. I lunched at the Rand
Club with a friend. It was somewhat unique. I was

226 SOUTH AFRICA: A GLANCE AT
out of the atmosphere of law, and in the slightly
pharmaceutical smeUing one of medicine. But I rather
like the pungent smell, although many of the pungent
sights I saw after lunch, when I was taken to the district
where the plague had been — where they had destroyed
4000 rats to save the rats of humanity that " scuttered "
about the burrows — were less agreeable. In the outbreak
of plague in March, 1904, there were 112 cases and 82
deaths. Prompt measures were taken to stamp it out.
Threepence a head was offered for every rat, and 15,826
were destroyed between August, 1903, and July, 1904.
And there are some left. The method of destruction
employed at Odessa does not seem to have been adopted.
Besides the destroyed site of the plague location I
was taken to some opium-smoking dens, and to the
plague hospital, which is some seven mUes away from
Johannesburg, and to some others, where I saw some
" cases " which were calculated to eat into memory as
vitriol does into metal. My host and his medical
friends were pleasant companions, although, like aU
gentlemen connected with pubUc health, they desfred
to see the State more despotic — and, of course, thefr
desfre was to make it a medical despotism. There is
a greab deal bo be said for the theory that the angel
from heaven that Carlyle desired to rule the world
should have a medical degree. Amidst the sights of
the afternoon was the dismantled tin suburb — which
was the original Johannesburg — caUed Ferrira, Medical
science, Uke Henry VIII., sees the advantage, if

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 227
you wanb bo dislodge rooks, of pulUng down bhefr
nesbs. Such nesbs (I bhink some of bhe places which
had been none boo soon declared unfit for human
habitation) were as horrible dens as any town in
Europe — and that is saying a good deal, for Europe
is a show-place for hovels — could boast or blush for.
But what had become of the rooks ? gone, no doubt,
to congest other districts. But the "plague had been
stayed." There had been hundreds of people in the
plague camp, not all Ul with the plague, but the next
worse thing — contacts. Looking at Johannesburg, and
remembering that it is a volcano of rats, I would not be
surprised to hear any day that that Asiatic undesirable
— the plague — had visited the town again. But there
are vigUant eyes on the rats and the slums. Amongsb
bhe sighb-seeing of bhe afbernoon was a visib bo bhe
Corporabion Compound, which I have afready referred to.
The removal of refuse by speciaUy constructed carts
and by means of thousands of mules, must cost the town
hundreds of thousands of pounds per annum. All this
wiU be done in time by water carriage. But as yet the
great town, so advanced in some ways, is very primitive
in others. I did not see one of the departments of the
town staff. The carcasses of horses, mules, and the like
are removed from the town,^ and are handed over to the
obscene aasvogels (vultures) to be undressed to the bones.
' I see that during ten months — ftom January till October in the
year 1904 — no fewer than 2151 carcasses, mostly those of horses and
mules, were so removed.

228 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
Opium dens here are like others. They are clean and
orderly, the abode of a poison — ^nirvana. I do not
know that opium-smoking is worse than drunkenness.
It certainly keeps its sordid observances to itself instead
of sprawling them with hiccoughs in the public eye.
To that extent it has its advantages over alcohoUc
poisoning for amusement.
It was a beautiful summer afternoon as we drove
through some of the black locations, where armed poUce
awe to order, and then along the ridge of Hospital HUl,
and saw the mountains of the north in thefr afternoon
glory; past the fort — now a prison conducted upon
lines which would make a new Howard a necessity in
Johannesburg — I could make out of some of the things I
was told about it, pictures as lurid as some of the wefrd
works of Martin, and more nauseous than some pictures
of the low Dutch school. But I hear the whole matter
is being inquired into, and I have no wish to run away
with the dirty linen which will have to be bleached in
public opinion.
And so we drove past Orange Grove, where the
trees were hung with beautiful fruit, over the veldt to
the Plague Camp and Chronic Hospital, and the
hospital where scurvy and worse diseases from the
scattered Transvaal are treated. The medical man who
is in charge is an intelUgent and educated Dutchman,
with a sub-acid flavour of bitterness about him. Per
haps he saw better days when he was under the Boers.
To us he was hospitable and kind. We had coffee and

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 229
Boer bread and figs with him. He showed us his four
months' old garden. Gardening here is not an art, it
is a miracle. Everything was doing well, and the secret
was, the sunshine, the vfrgin soU, and, he said, " bones."
His garden was full of dry bones, and anon the dry
bones would stand up as living fruit. One or two of
the patients in the hospital, which he showed us with
pardonable pride — they showed what disease could do
in the way of aggression, if they did not show what
medical science could do in the way of defence — were
pictures which may be nightmares for years. After
that we drove back through a quiet kind afternoon to
my host's house, a vUla on the high kopje which has
the goK links on its shoulders. From the terrace here
the view is incomparable. The mountains to the north,
aU rugged rocks, when looked at through a field-glass
were aU clothed in the gentlest and tenderest colours
— pinks for the lights and quiet blues for the shadows.
From the balcony we could see the smoke and some of
the high-set houses of Pretoria. And now in contrast
to the haggard day we had a genial Uttle dinner-party,
and conversation, which was an evergreen, and never
died down during the whole evemng ; and about eleven
o'clock, under a beautiful moon and consteUations which,
no doubt, Johannesburg would caU " groups," my host
drove me home, and I said " Good night, and thank
you." Next day I lunched with one of the judges, a genial
and inteUigent host, and had supper with one of

230 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
the most distinguished engineers in South Africa. But
if I go on you wUl think I did nothing in South
Africa but eat. I only desire to mention these facts
to show how superabundantly kind these people were,
and to justify a sigh of reUef when I was at last
enabled to disentangle myself from thefr dinners, and
take the train at Park Station for Cape Town on my
way to England.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 231

The funeral of Paul Kruger at Pretoria has come
and gone. AU such occasions are half holidays, half
obsequies. By many the burial was looked upon as an
important political event, by others as a melancholy
festivity. He was buried to make a Boer holiday. That
the occasions of crowds and merry-making are not many
in this slow, idling country is obvious. Here was one
where business could be combined with hoUday. The
papers had prepared for it; the smaU town of Pretoria
had filled like a vessel under innumerable taps to over
flowing ; beds were at a ransom, and many of those who
by courtesy had come to do a last honour to the dead
had to house themselves — if that is not the wrong word —
in tents. On the day in question, not a warm one for
summer, the crowd was, for a sparsely populated country,
great and impressive. The Dutch, take many things
soberly, and they are adepts at funerals. Here was an
occasion for solemnity and at the same time for drinks.
Paul Kruger, not a great but by no means an inconsider
able man — a man who had made some ugly chapters in
history for Britain, a man of faith and of ambition to

232 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
make his Dutch in South Africa a supreme people, and
the Transvaal a country which should stretch, as his throne
base, from the Atlantic to the Indian Ocean, had died
an exUe perusing his Bible as usual, with more of habit
than instruction in his reading. He had refused to Uve
under the flag that had flouted him from South Africa,
but here in his death he had been brought back to lie
under its flapping folds.
All this was calculated to stir the slow fires of senti
ment, to allow the air of enthusiasm to reach the sleeping
embers, and that is the means to a blaze. But of course
this end of the trek was made a deeper occasion. A letter
which it was said Kruger had written, which inculcated
unity amongst the Boers, and spoke of ultimate success
in a way vague enough to satisfy the conquering pride of
the British and to encourage the dormant ambition of the
Dutch, was read over his poor remains. Speeches were
delivered by Generals Christian De Wet, Shalk Burger,
and Louis Botha, which were in Dutch and eulogy.
That was to be expected, but the tone of these, whUe
praiseful, was not incendiary. On the whole the festivities
or obsequies passed off as well as could be expected, and
nothing came, or is Ukely to come, of them. The people
had passed the bier in thousands ; wreaths had been piled
on wreaths ; children had sung hymns more or less in
tune; the crowd had lined the footpaths, the women and
children being separated from the men ; the long proces
sion had wound from the Sussana Zaal to the cemetery.
The sough of the speeches had died away, and the

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 233
epitaph was spoken, "Hush." Many a flery cross has
come out of a grave, but here there is nothing but
smoking flax, and I think it well that the Dutch had
had their "outmg" and that the tired clay had been
laid at rest.

234 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT

LI
Sunday in Johannesburg is honoured in the breach
and not in the observance. The opera-house in the
season, the theatres and the music-haUs, are fuU, but
the churches are empty. So one fine Sunday, when there
were white clouds upon a sky of blue, we drove out to
see Sfr George Farrer's beautiful house and model farm,
which, from some reminiscence of home, he has caUed
" Bedford." It Ues at the fertUe foot of a range of rather
hard-featured kopjes. It is surrounded to a large extent
by woods of gum, mimosa, and fir trees, those dishevelled
woods of the Transvaal. The gum tree is an untidy
tree, continuaUy denuding itself of its bark garments
in slovenly ribbons. The house is a beautiful white
house, rough cast, with red-tUed roof, and with an
excellent stoep, a place where it is always afternoon.
There is a long drive from the forbidding gate to the
house, and the avenue is bordered with palisade-sur
rounded young oaks, which are flourishing for their age,
and in a hundred years wUl make the avenue magnificent
with gnarled giants and green shade. The farm and
gardens speak well for South Africa, first because nothing
but large capital cordd have won these from the clenched

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 235
hands of the rocky land, and second because, now
that it is won, it is a garden. The roses were in per
fection ; fruit bent down the pear trees to within reach.
There was a long hedge of weU-grown quinces. There
were small fields of meaUes, lucerne, and of potatoes.
Vines clambered over the arch which had been made
for them, and the clusters of grapes were fiUing with
sweet sap. There were signs of careful irrigation here
and there. One old ringletted willow had a seat high
in the shade of the branches, and steps leading up to
the attic in the tree. It was obvious at first sight
that here nature came more than halfway to meet bhe
spade and the hoe. It was a smaU, not a large. South
African paradise. But it had a new, an unfinished,
an unkempt look which showed the hurry of the
country. EngUsh gardens have taken centuries to make.
Thefr green walks, thefr box-wood borders, these are
the sedate products of years of quiet industry. At
home "in trim gardens'' we take our pleasures, but
these, for all thefr wealth, were not " trim " gardens. It
was a scramble here as at Johannesburg. It had a look
of being run, Uke market gardens, for a profit, although
the first outlay must, I fear, have precluded the balance
being on the right side. What is .this novelty which
seems to oppress the country? Every one here seems
to want to reaUze England in a jiffy. Their dinners,
their parties, thefr gardens, thefr politics, are aU sudden
imitations of England. They must have strawberries,
although these are not the same as we get at home.

236 SOUTH AFEICA: A GLANCE AT
and quails, and fish, and what not, and this anxiety to
be up-to-date brings in the tin can and cold storage in
aid of nature. Could not South Africa do something
on its own account ? Johannesburg is a young thing
yet, not out of its teens, but it apes the manners of
centuries. Many of thefr essays at politics have a young
look, and remind one of children playing at a game,
or of the hurly-burly of a comic opera. I beUeve they
are capable to-day of half a dozen fiascos Uke the raid
which made the world wonder. The people here regard
themselves as "grown up," but they drive about in
buggies, and are chUdren. Bub in bhis sabbath day's
journey to Sir George Farrer's beautiful estate I have
got far away from the main matter, which in such a
glorious summer day, in these hoyden gardens, with
fine views down the woodland ways from his shaded
stoep, was meant to be all praise, and has, like a veering
wind, turned to carping.

CUEEENT CONDITIONS AND POLITICS 237

LII

The finest climate in the world produced, after the hot
test of times, two or three days which shivered untU thefr
teeth chattered. Every one said ib was quite unusual;
but in two nights the thermometer had gone down 20°.
These two days, stabbing with daggers of east wind, were
not specimen days. But they were persuading days, and
when they came I was really not so sorry to leave the
finest climate in the world, although to do so I had
to make up my mind to the long dusty journey to bhe
Cape and bhe long waberways which lead to home. I
have no more pictures of travel to hang upon the wall
of my page, for the journey from the Cape to England
was empty of events. Coming north from the tropics
to meet again our old friend winter, was almost as
nice as the going south from his inhospitable chilliness
into the inviting summer. A year of summers is too
much. The voyage was a pleasant »ne. Going out we
passed the Bay of Biscay when it was in a placable
mood, but on our return the bay was stung to fury
by a strong north-west wind. Its bristles of waves were
on end. The sea tried to break or bend the ship over
its watery knees, and, faiUng that, flung it from watery

238 SOUTH AFEICA
hand to watery liand. Everything spoke of anger.
The waves foamed at the mouth, and were streaked
with livid streaks like tigers. Every gust was stridently
insensate. Every whistle that rode a cord or rope hissed
with hate. Every corner shrieked. Ib was a bad day,
and bhe gloating sheen of the water gave back the dull
stare of a blear-eyed sky. Ushant was not seen, and
we made straight across the angry mouth of the EngUsh
Channel for the Lizard on the Start light. After a weary
day I slept early, but wakened again about twelve o'clock,
and found that we had broached a calm again. We
were within the shelter of land ; we were in the arms
of England. And so from Ught to Ught we made our
way beside that lee-shore, until in the dark morning
we were moored obscurely in the Southampton dock.
And I am persuaded that the best picture of travel is
Home.

the end

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GENERAL LITERATURE
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LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO.
39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON, E.C.
91 AND 93 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK, and 8 HORNBY ROAD, BOMBAY.

CONTENTS.

PAGE
BADMINTON LIBRARY (THE)- 12
BIOGRAPHY, PERSONAL ME
MOIRS 9
CHILDREN'S BOOKS 32
CLASSICAL LITERATURE, TRANS
LATIONS 22
COOKERY, DOMESTIC MANAGE
MENT 36
EVOLUTION, ANTHROPOLOGY 21
FICTION, HUMOUR 25
FINE ARTS (THE) AND MUSIC 36
FUR, FEATHER AND FIN SERIES 15
HISTORY, POLITICS, POLITY,
POLITICAL MEMOIRS 3
LANGUAGE, HISTORY AND
SCIENCE OF - 20
LOGIC, RHETORIC, PSYCHOLOGY- 17

MENTAL, MORAL, AND POLITICAL
PHILOSOPHY 17
MISCELLANEOUS AND CRITICAL
WORKS 38
POETRY AND THE DRAMA 23
POLITICAL ECONOMY AND ECO
NOMICS - 20
POPULAR SCIENCE 30
RELIGION, THE SCIENCE OF 21
SILVER LIBRARY (THE) 33
SPORT AND PASTIME 12
STONYHURST PHILOSOPHICAL
SERIES ¦ ¦ 19
TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE, THE
COLONIES - - n
WAMPUM LIBRARY (THE) OF
AMERICAN LITERATURE 40
WORKS OF REFERENCE- - 31

INDEX OF AUTHORS AND EDITORS.

Abbott (Evelyn)
 (T. K.) - -
 (E. A.) -
Acland (A. H. D.)
Acton (Eliza)
>Eschylus
Airy (Osmund)
Albemarle (Earl of) -
Allen (Grant)
Allgood (G.)
Alston (L.)
Angwin (M. C.)
Anstey (F.)
Anstruther Thomson
« (J-) - -
AristoplianesAristotle -
Arnold (Sir Edwin) -
 (Dr. T.) -
Ashby (H.)
Ashley (W. J.) -
Atkinson (J. J.)
(Lord)

Page
19, 22
17,18 17 3
3622 3
13
30 33
36 25
9.15 22 17
11,23 3
36
3, 20

Avebury (
Bacon - - - 9, 17
Bagehot (W.) - g, 20, 38
Bagwell (R.) - 3
Bailey (H. C.) - 25
Bain (Alexander) 9, 17
Bal:er(Sir S. W.) - 11, 12
Baldwin (C. S;) 25
Balfour (A. J.) - 13, 21
Ball (John) II
Banks (M. M.) - 24
Baring-Gould (Rev.
S.) - - -21,38

9
23 3
36II 3
14. 1515

Page
Harnett (S. A. and H.) 20
Baynes (T. S.)- - 38
Beaconsfield (Earl of) 25
Beardsley (A.) - - 9
Beaufort(Duke of) 12, 13, 14
Becker (W. A.) 22
Beesly (A. H.) -
Bell (Mrs. Hugh)
Belmore (Earl of)
Benn (R. D.) -
Bent (J. Theodore) -
Besant (Sir Walter)-
Bickerdyke (J.)
Blackburne (J. H.)
Bland (Mrs. Hubert) 24
Boase (Rev. C. W.) - 5
Boedder (Rev. B.) - 19
Bonnell (H. H.) 38
Booth (A. J.) - 38
Bowen (W. E.) 9
Brassey (Lady)
 (Lord)
Bright (Rev. J. F.)
Broadfoot (Major W.)
Brooks (H. J.) -
Brough (J.)
Brown (A. F.) -
Bruce (R. I.) -
Buckle (H. T.) -
Bull (T.) -
Burgoyne (F. J.)
Burke (U. R.) -
Burne-Jones (Sir E.)
Burns (C. L.) -
Burrows (Montagu)

14, 20 3
131717
32 3
3
36
4,38 3
36
36 5

Page
Campbell (Rev. Lewis) 21, 22
Carlyle (T.) 9
Casserly (G.) - 3
Chapman (S.J.) 20
Chesney (Sir G.) 3
Chisholm (G. C ) 31
Cholmondeley-Pennell (H.) - - . 13
Christie (R. C.) - 38
Churchill (Winston S.) 3,4.25
Cicero - - 22
Clarke (Rev. R. F.) - ig
Clodd (Edi^rd) - 21,30
Clutterbuck (W. J.) - 12
Cockerell (C. R.) -
Colenso(R. J.)
Collie (J. N.) -
Colville (Mrs. A.)
Conington (John) -
Converse (F.) -
Conybeare (Rev. W.J.)
& Howson (Dean)
Coolidge (W. A. B.) ii
Corbett (Julian S.) 4
Coutts (W.) - 22
Cox (Harding) 13
Crake (Rev. A. D.) 32
Creighton (Bishop) - 4, 5, g
Cross (A. I..) - - 5
Crozier(J.B.) - - 9. I7
Cutts (Rev. E. L.) 5
Dale (L.) - - 4
Dallinger (F. W.) - 5

DanteDauglish (M. G.) -
Davidson (A. M. C.)
 (W. L.) - -
Davies (J. F.) -
Dennison (C. G.)
Dent (C. T.)
 (P. O.) -
De Salis (Mrs.)
Devas (C. S.) -
Dewey (D. R.) -
Dickinson (W. H.) -
Dougall (L.) -
Dowden (E.) -
Doyle (Sir A. Conan)
Du Bois (W. E. B.)-
Dunbar (Aldis)
 (Mary F.) -
Elgocd (G. S.)
Elkind (Louis) -
Ellis (J. H.)
 (R. L.)
Erasmus -
Escreet (J. M.)
Evans (Sir John)
Falkiner (C. L.)
Farrar (F. W.) -
Fite (W.) -
Fitzwygram (Sir F.)
Ford (H.) .
Fountain (P.) -
Fowler (Edith H.)
Francis (M. E.)
Freeman (Edward A.)
Fremantle (T. F.) .

Page 9,23 9
2220
22 4
14
32 36
ig, 20
20 3825
4025 5
252537 5
1517 9

4
26'7
33 15
zi2626
4.5 15

INDEX OF AUTHORS AND KDITOHS— continued.

17
38 10
23 5
1520 15 17 9
23
17, 18 55
18

Page
Frost G.)- 38
Froude (James A.) 4, 9, II, 26
Furneaux (W.) - 30
Gardiner (Samuel R.) 4,5
Gathorne-Hardy (Hon.
A. E.) - - 15, 16
Gerard (J.) 21
Gibson (C. H.)-
Gilkes (A. H.) -
Gleig (Rev. G. R.)
Gore-Booth (E.)
Graham (A.)
 (P. A.)
 (G. F.)
Granby (Marquess of)
Grant (Sir A.) -
Graves (R. P.) -
 (A. F.)
Green (T. Hill)
Greene (E. B.) -
Greville (C. C. F.)
Grose (T. H.)
Gross (C.)
Grove (Lady) -
 (Mrs. Lilly)
GurnhilI(J.) -
Gwilt (J.) -
Haggard (H. Rider) II, 26, 27,
Halliwell-Phillipps(j.) Hamilton (Col. H. B.)
Hamlin (A. D. F.)
Harding (S. B.)
Hardwick (A. A.)
Harmswcrth (Sir A.
C.) - - - 13,
Hart (A. B.)
Harte (Bret)
Harting(J. E.)-
Hartwig (G.) -
Harvey-Brooks (E.C.)
Hassail (A.)
Hatch (L. C.)
Havell IE. B.) ¦
Haweis (H.R.I
Hawlreyl Mrs. H.C.I
Head (Mrs.) -
Heathcote (J. M.)
 (C. G.)
Helmholtz (Hermann
von) -
Henderson (Lieut-
Col. G. F. R.) -
 (W. J.)
Henry (W.)
Henty (G. A.) -
Hibberl (\V.| -
Higgins (Mrs. N.)
Hifey (R. W.) -
Hill (S. C.)
Hillier (G. Lacy)
Hime(H. W. L.) -
Hodgson (Shadworth) 18,38
Hoenig (F.) 38
Hoffmann (J ) 30
Hogan (J. F.) 9
Holmes (R. R.) 10
Homer - - 22
Hope (Anthony) 27
Horace - - 22
Houston (D. F.) - 5
Howard (Lady Mabel) 27
'Howitt(W.) - - II
Hudson (W. H.)
Hughes-Games (S.) -
Huish (M. B.) -
Hullah (J.)
Hume (David) -
 (M. A. S.)
Hunt (Rev. W.)
Hunter (Sir W.)
Hutchinson (Horace G.)
13, 16, 38

9. 36 5
14¦¦4

Page
Ingelow (Jean) 23
Ingram (T. D.) 6
James (W.) - - 18, 21
J ameson (Mrs. Anna) 37
Jefferies (Richard) - 38
Jekyll (Gertrude) -36,39
Jerome (Jerome K.) -
Johnson (J. & J. H.)
Jones (H. Bence)
Jordan (W. L.)
Joyce (P. W.)
Justinian -
Kant (I.) -
Kaye (Sir J. W.)
Keller (A. G.)
K-;lly (E.)-
Kendall (H. C.)
Kielmansegge (F.)
Killick (Rev. A. H.)
Kitchin(Dr. G. W,
Knight (E. F.) -
KBstlin(J.) 10
Ladd (G. T.) - 18
Lang (Andrew) 6 ,13, 14, 16,
21, 22, 24, 27, 32, 39

27 393139
6, 27, 39
18 18 6

24

5
II, 12

Lapsley (G. T.)
Lecky (W. E. H.) 6,
Lees (I. A.)
Leslie"(T. E.Cliffe)-
Lieven (Princess)
Lmdlevd.)List (F.) -
Lodge (H. C.) -
Loftie (Rev. W. J.) -
Longman (C. J.)
 (F. W.) -
 (G. H.) - -
 (Mrs. C. J.)
Lowell (A. L.) -
LucianLutoslawski (W.)
Lyall (Edna)
Lynch (G.)
 (H. F. B.)-
Lytton (Earl of)
Macaulay (Lord) 7,
Macdonald (Dr. G.) -
 (L. S.) - -
Macfarren(SirG. A.)
Mackail (I. W.)
.Mackenzie (C. G.)
Mackinr.on (J.)
Macleod (II. D.)
Tvlacpherson (Rev. II.

Page
Morris (W.) - 10, 22, 23,
24, 27, 28, 37, 40
Mulhall (M. G.) - 20
Myers (F. W. H )
Nansen (F.)
Nesbit (E.)
Nettleship (R. L.)
Newlandsmith (E.) -
Newman (Cardinal) -
Nichols (F. M.)
Norrls (W. E) -
Oakesmith (J.) -
Ogilvie (R.)
Osbourne (L.)
Packard (W.)
Paget (Sir J.)
Park (W.)
Parker (B.)
Payne-Cjallwey (Sir
R.) -
Payne (W. M.)
Pears (E.)
Pearse (H. H. S.)
Peek (Hedley) -
Penrose (H. H.)

¦ 19. 40 12
24 1737
28 9
28

¦ 14.

55
12, 1616
13. 15
36 6
22 18
27,32 6
12
34
10,24 24
32 37
10,23 16 7
20

Phillipps-Wolley(C.) 12,28
Pierce (A. H.) - - ig
Pollock (W. H.) 13
Poole (W.H. and Mrs.) 36
Powell (E.) - - 8
Praeger (S. Rosamond) 33
Pritchett (R. T.) - 14
Proctor (R. A.) 16, 30, 35
Raine. (Rev. James) - 5
Rankin (R.) - 8, 25
Ransome (Cyril) 3, 8
Rhoades (J.) 23
Rice (S. P.) 12
Rich (A.) - _ - - 23, 31

Richmond (Ennis) -
Rickaby (Rev. John)
 (Rev. Joseph)
Ridley (Lady) -
Riley (J. W.)
Robbins (L.)
Roberts (E. P.)
Roget (Peter .VI.)

1919 19
28
'24 3333
20, 31

Madden (D.H.) 16
Magnusson (E.) 28
Maher (Rev. M.) 19
Mallet (B.) - - 7
Malleson (Col. G. B.) 6
Marbot (Baron de) - 10
Marchment (A. W.) 27
Marshman (J. C.) - g
Mason (A. E. W.) 27
Maskelyne (J. N.l 16
Matthay (Tobias) 37
Matthews (B.) - 23, 39
Maunder (S.) - 31
Max Miiller (F.)
10, 18, 20, 21, 22, 27, 39
May (Sir T. Erskine) 7
Meade (L. T.) - - 33
Melville (G. J. Whyte) 27

Merivale (Dean)
Metcalfe (E. E.)
Mill (John Stuart)
Millais (J. G.) -
Milner (G.)
Monck(W. H. S.)
Montague (F. C.)
Moore (T.)
 (Rev. Edward)
Moran (T. F.) -
Morgan (C. Lloyd)

7
9
18, 20
16, 3040 19 7
31 17 7

Romanes (G.J.) 10, 19,21,24
 (Mrs. G. J.) - 10
Ronalds (A.) - 16
Roosevelt (T.) - 5
Ross (Martin) - 28
Rossetli (Maria Fran-
cesca) - - - 40
Rotheram (M. A.) 36
Rowe (L. S.) 8
 (R. P. P.) - 14
Russell (Ladv)- 10
 (R.) - - ig, 40
Sandars (T. C.) 18
Sanders (E. K.) - g
Savage- Armstrong(G.F.)25
Scott (F.J.) - - 37
Seebohm (F.) 8, 10
Selous (F. C.) 12
Senior (W.) - - 13,15
Sewell (Elizabeth M.) 28

40
40
10, 2515 13

Shadwell (A.)
 (L. J )
ShakespeareShaw (L. H. de V.)
Shearman (M.) - 12,
Sheehan (P. A.) - 25, 28
Sherston (J.) - 40
Sinclair (A.) - - 14
Smith (R. Bosworth) S
 (T. C) - 5
 (W. P. Haskett) 12
Somerville (E.) - le, 28
Sophocles - 23
Soulsby (Lucy H.) 40
Southey (R.) 40
Spedding (J.) - g, 17
Spender (A. E.) 12

Page
Stanley (Bishop) 31
Stebbing (W.) - 28
Steel (A. G.) - 13
Stephen (Leslie) - 12
Stephens (H. Morse) 8
Stevens (R. W.) - .(O
Stevenson (R. L.) 25,28,33
Storr (F.) - - - 17
Stuart-Wortley (A. J .) 14, 15
Stubbs (I. W.) - - 8
 (W.)- - 8
Stutfield (H. E. M.) 12
Suffolk & Berkshire
(Earl ol) - - 14
Sullivan (Sir E.) 14
Sully (James) - - ig
Sutherland (A. and G.) 8
 (Alex.) - - ig, 40
Sverdrup (Otto) 12
Swinburne (A. J.) ig
Symes (J. E.) - 20
Tallentyre (S. G.) - 10
Taylor (Col. Meadows) 8
Theophrastus - 23
Thomas (J. W.) - 19
Thomas-Stanford (C.) 16
Thompson (N. G.) - 16
Thomson (J. Anstruther) 9, 15
Thomson (H. C.) 8
Thornhill (W. J.) 23
Thuillier (H. F.) 40
Todd (A.) - - 8
Toynbee (A.) - • 20
Trevelyan(SirG.O.) 7, 8, 9, 10
 (G. M.) 8
 (R. C.) - 25
Trollope (Anthony)
Turner (H. G.)
TyndalKJ.)Tvrrell (R. Y.) -
Unwin (R.)
Upton(F.K.and Bertha
Van Dyke (J. C.)

29
8, 40
9, 12
22, 23
40 3337
Vanderpoel (E. N.) - 37
Vaughan (Capt. A.O.) 29,33
V£rney(F. P.andM.M.) 10
Virgil - - - 23
Wagner (R.) - 25
Wakeman (H. O.) 8
Walford (L. B.) - 29
Walpole (Sir Spencer) 8
Walrond (Col. H.) - 12
Walsingham (Lord)- 14
Ward (W.) - g, 40
 (Mrs. W.) - 29
Watson (A. E. T.) 12, 13, 14
Weathers (J.) - 40
Webb (Mr. and Mrs.
Sidney) - - 20
 (T. E.) 19
Weber (A.) - 19
Weir (Capt. R.> 14
Wellington (Duchess ot) 37
Weyman (Stanley) - 2g
Whately(Archbishop) 17,19
Whi'shaw (F.) - 29
Whitelaw (R.) - 23
Wilkins (G.) 23
 (W. H.) 10
Willard (A. R.) 37
Willich (C. M.) 31
Willoughby (W.) 8
Willson (B.) - 8
Wood (Rev. J. G.) - 31
Wood-Martin (W. G.) 22
Wotton (H.) - - 37
Wyatl (A. J.) - 24
Wyld (M. A.) . 23
Wylie (J. H.) - 8
Yardley (J. W.) 8
Yeats (S. Levett) 29
Zeller (E.) ig

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30

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31

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