YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

1935

SIMPLE SKETCHES OF
CHRISTIAN WORK AND TRAVEL.

SIMPLE SKETCHES OF
CHRISTIAN WORK
AND TRAVEL.

BY
M. A. MARRIAGE ALLEN.

LONDON :
HEADLEY BROTHERS,
BISHOPSGATE.

FOREWORD.

The requests made by some of my friends must be my
excuse for publishing these simple accounts of Christian
work, and of travels, mainly undertaken to help those
in trouble, and I trust also for the furtherance oi God's
Kingdom upon earth.
In preparing them, I have often thought of a book
of F. B. Meyer's, " The Bells of Is," which refers to a
church submerged years ago under the sea. It was said
that occasionally the chimes of those bells might still
be heard ; and as, in preparing these simple sketches,
I have copied extracts from old letters or reports, there
have often been sounding below all, in my heart,
chimes oi the past — ^recollections of persons met, books
read, snatches of poetry, and sweet promises from the
Scriptures.
M. A. Marriage Allen.
Sunny lea,
Chelmsford, December, jigio.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER PAGE
I. — ^AT ACKWORTH, 1858 - - - 9
II. — RAGGED SCHOOLS IN LONDON - - 13
III. — ^MISSION WORK IN FRANCE, 187I-3 - 29
IV. — ^KNITTING INDUSTRY, IRELAND - - 40
V. — ^VISIT TO AMERICA WITH RICHARD ALLEN - 44
VI. — ^WORK AMONGST THE COLOURED PEOPLE, I. - 48
VII. — ^WORK AMONGST THE COLOURED PEOPLE, II. - 59
VIII. — FIRST VISIT TO JAPAN - ; - 67
IX. — SECOND VISIT TO JAPAN - 89
X. — ^SHORT VISIT TO INDIA - - IO9
XI. — ^ARMENIAN RELIEF WORK — BOURGAS - II3
XII. — BROUSSA ----- 124
XIII. — SMYRNA AND JERUSALEM - - - 128
XIV. — ^ATHENS, SMYRNA, MARSOVAN - - I3I
XV. — EGYPT, CYPRUS AND DUKHOBORS - I42
XVI.— MACEDONIAN RELIEF WORK - - I55
XVII. — PLATER VISITS TO COLOURED SCHOOLS - 158
XVIII. — SHOREDITCH CHRISTIAN MISSION - 169

CHAPTER I.
AT ACKWORTH, 1858.
In looking back to my girlhood, I feel how much I owe
to the infiuence of my dear uncle, Isaac Brown. I
frequently stayed at the Flounders Institute, Ackworth,
as companion to my cousin Margaret, and it was during
one oi these visits that I had the pleasure of seeing
and hearing Dr. Livingstone.
I copy an account oi his lecture, written at the time,
February 2nd, 1858.
" Attended a very interesting lecture by Dr. Living
stone in the Meeting-house, Ackworth ; it was primarily
intended for the School ; many others were present,
amongst whom I noticed Henry Pease, James Back
house, and Thomas Allis.
" Dr. Livingstone is about the middle height, and very
much like the likeness in his book of travels, but has to
me the appearance of having gone through a great deal ;
at times his expression is very pleasant.
" He is not a good speaker ; sometimes you would
almost take Mm for a foreigner ; having been so many
years used to a different language, and cut off from all
communication with Europeans, he seems to have
partially forgotten his own language, frequently repeats
himself, and has no flow of words.

10 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
" He began by describing his travels into the interior
of South Africa, which he says is not a vast, sandy
desert, as had formerly been supposed, but a fertile basin.
There appear to be high lands or rather mountains,
which traverse both the east and west coasts of Africa,
and gradually slope towards the interior where there
is abundance of water.
"The natives in Central Airica are quite disposed
to be friendly, but towards the coast, where they have
come in contact with the slave traders, they look upon
the white man with suspicion. Their idea seems to be
that the white men take their children to fatten and eat,
and they say that he comes irom the sea, and point to his
hair saying the water has washed it quite straight.
" Dr. Livingstone gave us some information respecting
his travels, most of which he has mentioned in his book.
He spoke of the tsetse fly, and told how very fatal it is
to the oxen and horses, but not to the wild animals,
or donke)^, or men ; he did not know whether there
was any similitude between the last two, but so it was,
and that neither was more severely affected by it than
by the bite of the mosquito. He did not think it woiild
be any bar to civilisation, as he imagined it would
vanish with the wild animals.
"After he had addressed the meeting some time he
said he wished to say a few words specially to the
children. He knew they had many advantages, and were
brought up in the knowledge of the great Christian
truths, and he hoped they would appropriate these
truths, and look upon their Saviour as their friend.
This life might be compared to a journey, and those

AT ACKWORTH, 1858. 11
who had gone some way in it could inform them of what
they had experienced. He remembered the time when
he was at a large public school, and in looking back to
his old schoolfellows, he had noticed that those who
had become true Christians had gone on prosperously
and happily ; whilst those who had neglected the great
truths of religion had neither lived nor died happily.
" The noblest effort of the human mind was to give
ourselves to the service of Him who had done aU that was
necessary for our happiness, both in this world and in
the world to come, and if he had a thousand lives he
would wilUngly dedicate them all to His service. In aU
his own trials and dangers, and they had not been few,
he had always been comiorted with the words, ' Commit
thy way unto the Lord, trust also in Him, and He will
bring it to pass.' He had himseli been under the lion's
paw, and felt his bones crunch with his teeth, and to
,that day bore the marks of the conflict ; but a kind of
stupor seized him, and he felt no fear. ' Indeed,' said
he, ' I do not fear death, I do not look upon it as a
terrible thing to be freed from this body.'
"He concluded by sajring that were we true Christians
we should learn not only how to live happily, but also
to die happily.
"After Dr. Livingstone had taken his seat, Thomas
Pumphrey, James Backhouse and others asked a few
questions, and the meeting separated.
' ' Many Friends went up into Thos. Pumphrey's drawing
room, and were introduced to Dr. Livingstone and^his
wife, who is the daughter of Dr. Moffat, one of the mis
sionaries in South Africa. Dr. Livingstone informed us

12 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
that he expected to leave for Africa in about a week, and
was now on his way to Edinburgh, and that he intended
to come home by Kendal, in order to take leave of his
sons who were at Henry Wilson's school there. He has
four children. He and his wife are going out together,
and will be accompanied by several men of science.
"The vessel is to take them up the Zambesi, and where
the river is too narrow for it, they will embark in a small
steamer only eight feet wide, which they will take out
with them for that purpose.
"He also spoke of the language of theMacololos which
appears to be spoken for 800 miles north of th^ Cape.
"He is very sociable and pleasant in company, and I
esteemed it quite an honour to shake hands with him
and his wife. He spoke of Lord Clarendon in very high
terms, and after he had been conversing some time, wrote
on a paper the words : ' Christus mihi petra vivens ' —
Christ to me a Hving stone, which Thomas Pumphrey
said would make him a very appropriate motto. I
beUeve it was suggested by Bevan Braithwaite.
" We really felt quite sorry when it was time to with
draw, for it was a very interesting opportunity, and
one I should have been sorry to miss,
" Would there were more such truly great men
amongst us ! "

CHAPTER II.
THE RAGGED SCHOOLS IN LONDON.
In 1863, 1 Uved with my brother John in London, and
first became interested in Sunday School work, through
taking a class in the Friends' School, Quaker Street,
Spitalfields. I was deeply moved to find the girls in the morning
school (of which Mary Ann Brown, afterwards Mrs.
Bayes, was at the time superintendent) — extremely
ignorant of gospel truth.
Later, when superintending the Bible Woman in
connection with Mrs. Ranyard's Mission, Shoreditch,
my heart was much drawn out to the many neglected
children in that district, and to attempt to do something
for them.
The first School I opened was in the Bible Mission
Room, Bateman's Row, Shoreditch, in October 1865.
The main object was to gather the children out of the
streets, and have them under Christian care and in
fluences ; we did not plan for much more than the " three
R's", having but Uttle for salaries or other expenses.
Many were the prayers offered for guidance, and that
a teacher might be engaged who would care for the best
welfare of the children. One was highly recommended,
and the School opened ; but I feared that she was not

SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
desirous to lead the children to Jesus. The foUowing
week she stayed away, and sent a note resigning her
place. I did not like to disperse the children, so sent
for the daughter of one of our " Mothers " who had been
converted in that very mission room ; she earned her
living by knitting hair-nets, and assisting her mother,
who was a shirt-maker. " Could she take charge of the
children till we could meet with a regular governess ? "
She was very fearful, but consented ; one great difficulty
was that she was a poor scholar herself ; and after School
was over, I used to hear her read, and speU. But time
went on, and as we could only accommodate fifty
children, she was able to manage them very nicely.
One day she spoke to me on the subject of prayer.
asking, " Should School be closed with prayer daily ? "
I said : " I cannot lay down any rule. If you reaUy
want the Lord's blessing on the children, kneel down and
ask it ; but on no account do it from form." I shaU not
soon forget the few simple words she offered the first
time I heard her : " Lord, teach me how to teach these
children. Make them lambs of Thy fold." From that
time I knew all would be weU.
On moving to larger premises in New Inn Street,
September, 1866, we tried if she could still conduct the
School ; and those who visited it must have been struck
with her kind gentle manner and great tact with the
children. Sometimes rough boys would come down the
court to throw in mud or stones ; she would go to the
door with a smile, and ask if they wanted anybody,
and they would hang down their heads, look ashamed,
and walk away.

THE RAGGED SCHOOLS IN LONDON. 15
She had eventuaUy over two hundred children under
her care. We had our discouragements, and did not
alwa37s know what to do with troublesome children ;
but prayer was the great resource. She would pray :
" Lord, give me patience with the boys : teach me to
be kind and loving, and lead them to Thee." And her
prayers were heard and answered.
In the early spring of 1867, she was married to
George Vandyke, a Christian young man, but she
wished still to continue teaching; and as he was
engaged in the city aU day, her time was at her
own disposal. Often she would say, as he left her
for the day, " Oh, George, pray for me that I may
be made a blessing to the children, and lead them
to the Saviour."
Soon aiter her marriage I took tea in her new home,
where she was evidently very happy. Our conversation
naturally turned on the school, and I asked if she knew
a young woman suitable for a teacher. On my men
tioning one, she said :
" Yes ; she is a Christian."
I said : " But that, though the principal thing, is
not aU ; she must have an aptitude for teaching."
" Oh, miss, a Christian can do anything."
Wishing her to express her sentiments, I said, " What
do you mean ? "
" Why, if we pray, God wiU help us. He does.
Last week, two of the monitors were to be away. I did
not feel well, and I quite dreaded the morrow, wondering
how I was to manage. But I prayed to God to help me,
and in the night I stiU kept praying for the school ; and

i6 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
the next day everything was so easy, I never knew the
children so good before."
We were only able to avail ourselves of the services
of this devoted young Christian for a short time, for in
less than a year aiter her marriage she was called to her
Heavenly Home. A useiul life seemed before her ;
a happy home, a sweet little baby only a fortnight old,
and work for Jesus in which she deUghted ; nevertheless,
to depart and be with Christ was far better.
We see not as God sees; but it is an unspeakable
comfort to know that " He doeth aU things well."
When the school was moved to New Inn Street, in
September, 1866, the fronts of the lower storey in three
small cottages were removed, and the court roofed in,
which made a room 30 it. by 20 it.
The upstairs rooms were used ior iniants. What a
contrast this to the spacious and well-built schools of
to-day !
The Pay School was opened very near New Inn Street
school in May, 1867, and soon numbered one hundred
children, paying 2d. a week each ; these were selected
irom the more respectable oi the ragged school children,
who had much improved since being under care.
Five minutes walk from Bateman's Row will take us
to Motley Street, where the next new school in this
district was opened in March, 1868.
This completed the Shoreditch group oi schools where
" our Uttle ragged iriends " soon numbered six hundred.
The Annual Meeting oi these schools was held on Decem
ber 29th, 1868, at the New Town HaU, Shoreditch.
Charles Reed, M.P. (aiterwards Sir Charles Reed),

THE RAGGED SCHOOLS IN LONDON. 17
occupied the chair. Our Iriends, Robert Barclay, EU
Jones and others, were amongst the speakers. The
room was well filled, the parents oi the children occu
pying the galleries, the children the centre oi the hall ;
whilst the parishioners and a very considerable sprinkling
of Friends occupied the remaining space. The meeting
was a decided success. The speeches, the singing, and
the Christmas tree all seemed thoroughly appreciated.
The need of such a work is clearly shown by a letter
which appeared in The Christian Times early in 1868,
stating that in the large and populous district comprising
Old Street, Crown Street (Finsbury), Curtain Road and
City Road, 20,000 persons were corgregated. Ours
were the only free schools. This work brought us into
contact with many pathetic instances of what life,
child-life, was in those days amongst the very poor.
In 1867, I wrote : " There are four ragged girls just
come into the schoolroom together, the eldest is about
ten years old and the youngest, six ; they are mother
less *, father is away at work all day, and they live a
wild, free, and at times hard life, coming to school
now and then, as they fancy ; or, you may see them in
the streets climbing into an empty cart or truck. Their
father does not seem to care much about them, except
that they should not trouble him; and, though we
cannot but smile as we see their wild freedom, thoughts
oi their future will come, and we long to take them to
some saie place, where they may be kept from much
evil. This cannot be ; so we must patiently try to gain
an influence over them, and get them to Uke school
better than the streets." 3

1 8 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
The answers of the Uttle ones were sometimes very
amusing, e.g., a visitor was iniormed once that " God
rested on the Sabbath day, 'cos he was tired " ; and the
childish expression, " I don't know nosing " describes
the mental state oi most, when they first came to us.
In January, 1869, Sarah Smiley from America was at
a meeting oi iorty-three of the teachers and helpers oi
" our little ragged iriends," who were much interested
in hearing oi her work amongst the coloured people of
the Southern States of America. She concluded with
a loving address on the words " Whose I am, and whom
I serve," speaking to those engaged in the work, on the
importance oi reaUsing whether they belonged to Christ
or not, and whether they could each say irom her heart,
" Whose / am." She pointed out that love to Christ and
adoption as His, must precede work ior Him ; and
reierred to the blessed privilege oi being permitted to be
co-workers with God.
About one hundred and fiity oi the orphans and most
destitute little ones had a substantial dinner once a
week (slices oi leg of mutton and suet dumplings).
It caused a little amusement when, on inquiry of the
workers as to what branch of work each was engaged
in, whether sick- visiting, teaching, temperance, etc.,
one kind, motherly woman replied : "I cooks the
dinners ! " and a lady present added : " And I am
Miss Marriage's mother ! "
THE RATCLIFF SCHOOL.
The following is an account of the establishment
of the fourth school for very poor children. This was

THE RAGGED SCHOOLS IN LONDON. 19
some years before the London School Board, and it
brings home to us what a different state of things
existed then : —
"I shaU not soon forget my first impressions oi Rat cliff,
when visiting the Mothers' Meeting which Friends held
in the Meeting-house, Brook Street. The number
of ragged, shoeless chUdren in the streets arrested my
attention. Why had we established schools in Shore
ditch when they were needed much more here ? I went
again the next Sunday evening to see the work carried
on by WiUiam Dyne, John and Marie Hilton and
other Friends at the Meeting-house, and was astonished
at the number oi rough, bareiooted boys there were
inside, still more at the greater number outside, and
then determined to gather some oi them into a day
school ; but how could we begin ? and where were they
to be taught ?
" For months I wanted to commence, but did not see
how to get a footing there. In the summer I informed
Mrs. Ranyard of the needs of the district — ^would she
open a Bible mission ?
" In a few days an answer came in the affirmative,
and the Bible Woman commenced visiting the latter
end of July. But later on, on asking Mrs. Ranyard
if we might hire a mission room, she wrote word that
her funds were so low, we must not increase our expenses
there. "Hearing that the Wesleyans had opened a room in
ColUngwood Street, which they only used in the evenings,
we appUed for the use of it in the daytime. On seeing
the secretary, he told me they had been so much

20 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
disturbed in their meetings, that they were going to give
up the house ; but if we inclined to take it for a school,
they would lend us the forms, etc., ior the present.
" ' WiU you tell me what occurred,' I asked. ' Ii you
are disturbed how can we get on ? '
"He then said they had much trouble with the
' roughs,' especially on preaching nights ; and that last
week they crowded in, tried to iorce their way upstairs,
and one Irishman drew out a dagger and presented
it at the preacher. ProvidentiaUy some oi his iriends
arrived ; the poUce were sent ior, and the room cleared.
Since then the Committee had decided to give up the
mission ; they had given notice to leave ; did we incline
to take the house ? I thought it over ; evidently some
thing was wanted there. I had been waiting ior an
opening ; they would not molest a lady, and besides
we would begin with the children.
" Accordingly, that day week, the 13th oi November,
we began with eighteen Uttle ones in the day school,
and twelve older girls in an evening class. The next
day we admitted a few more, and the next had a prayer
meeting with thirty of the mothers."
I give a few notes made at the time : —
" We have two little cripples ; one a boy, nine years old;
who cannot walk. His mother brings him in her arms,
and he crawls on his knees to his chair. It is most sad
to see how common these afflicted ones are among the
poor ; sometimes their affliction arises from early neglect,
and sometimes from want of surgical skill. How
different it is with the rich ; their afflicted children can
have every care and many aUeviations." This was

THE RAGGED SCHOOLS IN LONDON. 21
before the work for crippled children instituted by
John Kirk (now Sir John Kirk) in connection with
the Ragged School Union, and by Dr. Barnardo, and
later on by Sir WilUam Treloar.
"Those three children just behind the Uttle boy have
their father ill of consumption. We have known him
over five months, aU which time he has been confined
to his bed. He used to work in the Tower, cleaning the
armour. He is an Irishman, and a CathoUc ; but a
most interesting and inteUigent man. In many things
his views are sadly darkened, and his mind much fettered
by the teaching oi his church ; and I iind it best not to
argue. We are quite agreed in one thing — ^we are all
sinners, needing a Saviour ; though he tears to take oi
the iulness of the Gospel. Are there not many Christians
of other denominations who also think it presumptuous ?
His wiie used to sell sweets in the streets, but now that
the new MetropoUtan Streets Act has come into opera
tion, they can do but Uttle. The children came in quite
discouraged the other day ; they had been driven away
by the poUce whenever they attempted to sell their wares.
"The eldest boy (the only one old enough to work) has
crushed his finger, and is thus disabled — ^making true
the saying one so oiten hears irom the poor, ' misior-
tunes never come single.'
" Four other children we have just taken into the school
have their father iU in the workhouse infirmary ; and
I iear I much hurt the mother's ieeUngs a iew weeks
ago by advising her to go into the house also — ^iearing
her children would suffer so much irom hunger. She
' could not break up her bit of a home, her children

23 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
would be taken from her ' ; and so we helped her a
Uttle to enable her to buy stock. She buys old clothes
in Petticoat Lane (near Devonshire House meeting),
makes them up again, and seUs to shops or poor people.
A few weeks after, coming from a visit to the Irishman,
a boy ran after me, ' WiU you come and see mother?
She's iU.' It was time for the Mothers' Meeting, but the
Bible Woman went, found it too true, and oi course,
all her stock was gone. When again able to be at the
meeting, she informed us her husband was much better ;
though at one time his case was considered hopeless.
" ' Oh ! I do thank God to think he will be able to
work again ; the doctor says he hopes he wiU be out in
a few weeks, and his master has promised to take him
on again. If I can only get food ior the children till
then, we shall be able to get along.'
" She had no shawl or jacket on, though it was a very
cold day. It had been pawned ior two shilUngs to take
her husband to the hospital. On inquiry, I iound that
they had no fire, and the relief irom the parish was not
due for two days. Had anyone seen her gratitude and
gathering tears on receiving a trifle for present necessi
ties, they would have iound it difficult to refrain from
weeping with her.
" I am often asked if the distress of the poor is not
brought on by their own improvidence and drinking
habits ? Undoubtedly it is so in many cases. These we
cannot help, except by giving a loaf now and then for
the sake oi the children. But the poverty of many,
very many, is occasioned by their being out of work.
Trade has been very dull in London for more than a year.

THE RAGGED SCHOOLS IN LONDON. 23
The poor are generally able to ' get themselves round '
in the summer ; but this year those engaged in the docks,
more especiaUy, have not had the opportunity. Then
a poor widow with five or six children has a hard struggle
to care ior them, and work at shirt- making, boot- binding,
or a mangle ; and, besides these, are a great many
wretched, shiitless poor, who cannot do anything
properly. This is more the iault oi their bringing up,
than their own ; and we are trying to prevent this in
the next generation by our schools, etc. These people
go out cleaning (?), selUng things in the streets, and some
would best be described in the words oi a poor woman
who said, ' My husband is a casualty man.' How are
these people to Uve ? We do not wish to pauperise
them. Nothing requires so much the wisdom oi the
serpent with the harmlessness oi the dove, as visiting
and helping the poor. Are there not people in other
stations oi liie who seem as if they could not get on.
who every now and then require a helping hand ? Can
we wonder ii it is so among the very poor ? And then,
do we not know the heavy demands made upon us in
illness, how the invaUd can only take that which he
fancies ? What then must it be with them when the
bread-winner is laid by ? Certainly their fancies are
often not what we should consider luxuries ; for one Uttle
sick girl told me that she could eat nothing but a ' sheep's
trotter,' and I found two could be bought for a penny.
But how discouraging it is for the wife, who has got a
piece oi fish or chop ior her sick husband — ^it has to be
cooked in the room — and, aiter the smell of the cooking,
he cannot eat any of it.

24 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
"We have known famiUes who have suffered for
months, and we often wondered at their patience and
their capacity to bear. But the poor have great faith
in God as a Father, and, ' It wiU be better soon, please
God.' " And it is in these heavy trials the faith of the Christian
shines brightly ; often do I think oi the injunction to
do good, ' especially to them who are oi the household
of faith.' One poor woman, telling her anxiety about
food and rent, added, ' I should have sunk under it,
if I had not found my Saviour last year, before these
trials came. He helps me to bear them, and it must
be for some good purpose.' But for those who have
the trials, and not the consolations oi reUgion — ^those
who in this world have the tribulations, but have not
peace in Christ, how sad it is for them ! May these heavy
afflictions be blessed, as they have been, to many. I
never felt the beauty of some hymns tiU I heard them
sung by the poor people. Listen to a group of hard
working women in a Mothers' Meeting, as they sing : —
' Though often here we're weary,
There is sweet rest above ;
A rest that is eternal.
Where all is peace and love.
' Oh, let us then press forward.
That glorious rest to gain ;
We'll soon be free from sorrow,
From toil, and care, and pain.'
Or, as they sing another h5min, and you know several
of them are bowed down with trouble, how sweetly do
the words of the chorus sound : —

THE RAGGED SCHOOLS IN LONDON. 25
' There'll be no more sorrow there.
There'll be no more sorrow there ;
In heaven above, where all is love.
There'll be no more sorrow there.' "

Is it not a very sad thing for the poor of London,
that so many of the middle class, and aU the higher,
Hve out of the city ? The influence the more educated
cannot fail to exert over the poorer is thus lost.
The latter all Hve together, thousands in one locality.
There is no kind Christian gentleman to lend a helping
hand, no district lady caUing in, no Uttle deUcacy sent
from the home table to the poor invaUd. IndividuaUty
is lost, and we have to deal with them as masses ; and
though much is being done by devoted city missionaries,
courageous Bible women and other agencies, it is very
Uttle in comparison with the need of our million-peopled
city. None but those intimately acquainted with the need
of our great cities can have any idea of the sin, poverty,
and degradation of so many of our fellow-creatures in
this Christian land — this land of Bibles and schools, and
this age of benevolence and philanthropy ; and often
the question forces itself upon me, — are not Christians
partly to blame ? Are we, as a Church, clear ? Look
at some of our London Meeting-houses situated in the
midst of these streets ; look at our empty forms, and
then look at the people outsid3. Something is already
being done, but more remains ; the labourers are few.
I am more than ever convinced, in looking round, and
seeing " the trail of the serpent over all," that the Gospel
of Him who was sent " to bruise the serpent's head,"

26 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
is the only remedy ; but it is a great comfort to know
that, though Sin 's the wound,
Christ's the cure.
" Our Little Ragged Friends " moved into larger
premises in London Street, RatcUff, in January, 1868.
Mrs. Ann F. Fowler kindly arranged for them to have
soup dinners twice a week, which was a great help
and much needed, as the distress there was so great.
A door from the schoolroom opened into a back kitchen
where about fifty girls were uncomfortably crowded :
quite a row oi them were perched on a dresser, and one
day I iound iour or five sitting on the sides oi the copper,
with their feet inside ! (This copper was not used for
soup-making.) Taking our stand between the two rooms, we told the
children Bible stories, and one day I said, " Now, dears,
you must be very quiet while we pray to God to bless
you. What shaU we ask ? "
" Pray for more soup and clothes for us."
We had previously told them we feared they could
only have one soup dinner a week in future. And so
we prayed, and on my return home, I received a letter
from Mrs. Fowler who had so kindly provided the soup,
saying more funds had been sent, and the two dinners
a week could be continued. On my next visit, I asked
the children, " What did we pray for last ? "
They said : " For more soup."
Then I said, " God has heard the prayer, and some
more money has been sent ; what must we do now ? "
" Thank God for it." they repUed.

THE RAGGED SCHOOLS IN LONDON. 27
I was often warned not to undertake too much, but
felt that the responsibihty was not in trying to gather
in the children, but in knowing the state in which so many
live, and leaving them.
Amongst the Friends who kindly helped in the work
of this school were the late John Hilton and Smith
Harrison, but my most intimate friend and helper was
Mary Jane CatUn (now Mrs Robert J. Davidson, of
China). We had in three Ragged Schools in Shoreditch and
the one in RatcUff, 800 children under our care, at the
time of the estabUshment of the London School Board
in 1870.
The Committee of these schools appUed to it to take
over the children in Shoreditch. A Committee was
appointed to visit the schools, and was evidently in
terested in them, especially Professor Huxley, who was
much amused when the Uttle ones gave an action song :
Cows and horses walks on four legs,
Little children walks on two.
Fishes swim in water clear,
Birds fly up into the air, etc.
Our many efforts were in vain to get them to say
walk instead of walks.
Huxley looked with astonishment at these poor Httle
ones, and then turning said. " How do you get them to
come ? " I answered that it was largely personal
influence, that we knew the parents in their homes,
and the children in the streets.
The next day at the School Board he made a speech
on the subject of compulsory school attendance, sajring

28 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
how in the school he had just visited he was, struck
with the power of personal influence, and added " That
is the kind of compulsion we want."
Shortly after this, some of the School Committee,
viz., Joseph Fry (son of EUzabeth Fry), Robert Barclay,
Alfred W. Bennett and Mary Anne Marriage were
invited to meet the Board.
Lord Lawrence was in the chair, and the result of this
interview was that the schools were taken over by the
School Board in 1871. They were carried on in the old
premises till the new buildings were completed in 1875.
These are in Scrutton Street, off Curtain Road, Hoxton,
and accommodate 1080 children.
Our readers will not be surprised to learn that the
Board decUned to take Our Little Ragged Friends from
the RatcUff School, as the premises were too unsuitable ;
consequently Friends continued to keep the children
together, untU the School Board had new buildings in
Broad Street ready, when they were marched round to
them in May, 1873.
In reply to a letter, Sir John Kirk, of the Ragged School
Union, writes in 1910 : " I used to visit the schools you
refer to, in the years 1867 to 1870, and cherish very
happy memories of those pioneer days in the cause of
the neglected little ones."
In 1904, the work of the School Board was handed over
to the London County Council.

CHAPTER III.
MISSION WORK IN FRANCE.
Friends in England had raised a fund to aid the non-
combatant sufferers from the Franco-German War,
called the War Victims' Fund ; this was largely dis
tributed in the neighbourhood of Paris, Metz, and in the
vaUey of the Loire.
Christine MajoUer (a French lady), who had married
Robert Alsop, a minister of the Society of Friends in
London, was drawn out in deep sympathy for her suffer
ing compatriots and felt called of the Lord to visit
them in the love oi the Gospel. Friends issued addresses
of sympathy to the sufferers through the war, and
R. and C. Alsop undertook to distribute them.
They visited Paris soon aiter the Germans retired.
The city was a pathetic sight ; the stone pavements up
as used for barricades by the Communists ; area gratings
stopped up with cement, to prevent inflammable
materials being thrown down ; the TuiUeries Palace
destroyed by fire ; the beautiful Louvre partly in ruins ;
the Madeleine so damaged and chipped by the bullets,
it reminded one of a person pitted with smallpox ;
the lovely gardens and squares torn up and fiUed
with debris ; sometimes large shop-windows entirely
shattered ; one window, where the buUet had starred

30 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
the immense sheet of plate glass ; another where the
bullet had gone clean through the glass, without other
wise damaging it.
They stayed about two weeks in the city, busy
visiting the worst quarters, directing and posting
thousands of the addresses to the mayors and persons
in authority, distributing others in the parks with kindly
words of sympathy, and calUng on some of the leading
inhabitants. There were three Addresses. The first "To aU in
France who love the Lord Jesus Christ in sincerity " ;
the second " To the Inhabitants of Paris " ; the third
" To the People of France."
I was glad to be able to join in the distribution of these
Addresses, and in September, 1871, wrote to my friends
from Paris : —
"I think you wiU be interested in hearing a Uttle of our
work in France ; and as you have heard recently from
Christine Alsop, I will confine myself more particularly
to the part Henry Hipsley, Esther Tuke and I have
taken. " We have been several times to Boulogne-sur-Seine.
and are much interested in the work of Madame Dalen-
court, a French lady, sister to the Lieutenant BeUot. who
was drowned in one of the expeditions sent in search of
Sir John FrankUn. She was educated at a convent in
France, and came over to England with her Uttle son,
in 1870, as a refugee during the Franco-German war.
" Here she made the acquaintance of Christine M.
Alsop, who took her to some of the Mothers' Meetings in
London. She exclaimed, ' Oh, that I could do some-

MISSION WORK IN FRANCE. 31
thing Hke this for the poor French women ! ' After her
return to Paris at the close of the war in 1871, with
her husband's consent she began a Mothers' Meeting in
a room of her own house. Some idea may be formed of
the ignorance of these poor women from the fact that
when C. M. Alsop was on a visit, they thought it was she
who had written the Bible which she recommended
them to read.
" This meeting was the commencement of the more
extensive work carried on still under the auspices of
EngUsh Friends.
" I have spoken once or twice to her poor women, and
get on better with the language than I expected. I have
also had three meetings with a few poor people in a
mission room in Avenue Montaigne ; in the first I
read the short address of sympathy from Friends, and
part of John x. ; in the other meetings showing
some diagrams (the types. Sacrifice of the Lamb, the
Ark, Passover, Manna, Water from the Rock and the
Brazen Serpent), which I find a great help in conveying
Gospel truths, especiaUy when my acquaintance with
the language is not sufficient for me to speak for long.
"Christine Alsop and I have also induced some ladies
to commence a Mothers' Meeting in connection with
Emile Cook's congregation. The first was held last
Tuesday, when the poor French women were much
interested in hearing of our London mothers.
" The most encouraging mission work we have seen in
France is that carried on at CHchy, a very poor suburb
of Paris, outside the walls ; it is principaUy maintained
by Madame Andre, a French Protestant lady living at

32 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
Versailles ; there is a very good day school, commenced.
in the first place, to gather in the Uttle rag-sorters who
live in the neighbourhood, some of whom, with other
poor children, attend the school. My ' Little Ragged
Friends ' in London had saved up their farthings and
halfpence, and when they heard I was coming to France
bought a number of a little book entitled ' La Petite
Chiffoniere ' (a translation of ' Just Like Me ') ;
these I took to CHchy, and the poor chUdren were much
interested in having it read, and received some to take
home. On Sunday, H. Hipsley, E. Tuke and I attended
the service held with the parents oi these chUdren,
about eighty present. H. H. read the address, I said a
iew words, and the rest oi the meeting was conducted
by Monsieur Paris, the evangelist ; his wiie carried on a
great work among the chiffoniers, but was shot (accident
ally, I beUeve) on the entry oi the Versailles troops
into Paris ; they were in a room looking out as the army
passed, when a soldier fired up at the window, and
Madame Paris and her brother were kiUed. The sister
oi Madame Paris is the iniant school teacher, and seems
an earnest Christian. On Thursday evening Christine
Alsop had a pubUc meeting with the poor people ; about
a hundred and thirty were present, nearly all Roman
CathoUcs. We gave out the addresses and some iUus
trated fly-leaves as the people were leaving, with which
they were delighted. There is certainly an open door
in France at the present time for simple Gospel teaching.
There seems no fear of the priests hindering the work,
at least in Paris, and the people are quite disposed to
come. I am extremely struck with the inteUigence of

MISSION WORK IN FRANCE. 33
the poorer classes ; nearly all the women and children
can read well, and I have as yet seen none of that abject
poverty, ignorance and squalor that we see in London,
and the people are better acquainted with the facts of
Bible history than we expected. There is also much
good management and thrift about them ; we have
visited some in their homes, and feel that the French
women set at least our poor London mothers a good
example in cleanUness and household duties ; how iar
they are acquainted with the truths oi the Gospel it
is difficult to judge irom such a short stay, but doubtless
it is the infideUty oi the middle and higher classes
that is at the root oi so much evil in France.
" On Wednesday last a small sewing class was opened
at Le Vallois Perret, and on Friday (the 8th) a meeting
was held with some oi the poor people, when the Address
was read, and a short Gospel address given ; we aiter
wards visited an ambulance in the neighbourhood ;
there were several wounded soldiers, one a Communist,
very badly wounded, who, as soon as he is able to be
removed, will be sent to prison ; they were much pleased
with ' The Patchwork Quilt ' which we have as an
illustrated fly-leai.
" We are encouraged with the way in which the
Addresses are received, and have seen several read them
with tears in their eyes. At one place we entered a
restaurant for luncheon ; one gentleman, who took the
Address on leaving the room, returned, after reading
it, to thank us again ; and at the same time we noticed
the master and mistress reading them, tears in their
eyes, the lady leaving the room to control her feelings,

34 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
and afterwards they both entered into conversation
with us on reUgious subjects.
" . . . I cannot but beUeve the visit of Friends at
present to Paris is most opportune. The Protestant
pasteurs have had such a long anxious time, and have
evidently suffered so much, that they seem crushed and
out of heart. We much hope our visit may encourage
them to set to work again. . .
" Orleans, September i8th, 1871.
"... Robert and Christine Alsop and the rest
of our party have been most pleasantly and warmly
received here. The first day we caUed on the pasteur,
M. Bruston, who arranged for a meeting with some of
the more earnest members of his congregation. After
wards we caUed on some Christians Hving in the country
near Orleans. We are told we have only to mention
we belong to the Society of Friends and we shaU have
an introduction everywhere ; the seed-corn, and more
especiaUy that distributed in the VaUey oi the Loire,
has made Friends so weU known and respected. We had
an interesting caU irom James Long, who had been
helping Friends in distributing the ' War Victims'
Fund ' in that district.
" We had been much impressed with the deUcate state
oi the children there, owing to the scarcity of milk, as
the cows had been carried off or kUled during the war.
James Long procured a number of cows from Spain,
and placed them in different communes where they are
sadly needed. He told us of the unexpected dif&culty
they had in getting the cows to settle, and how restive

MISSION WORK IN FRANCE. 35
they were when being milked, for they did not understand
the French language ! Accordingly, when bringing the
next train-load from Spain, he brought them under the
care of a few Spanish peasants, who stayed a short time
till the cows were settled in.
" On Saturday afternoon we had a meeting of women
in the temple (Protestant places of worship are so
called here), when Christine Alsop entered into the
subject of mission work. The poor women, who looked
so nice in their clean white caps, came to me afterwards,
saying, ' Oh, we must have a Mothers' Meeting,' and one
of the ladies present promised to establish one at once.
"On Sunday morning H. Hipsley, Esther Tuke and I
went to Fourneaux, a viUage about seven miles from
here, near which the battle of Coulmiers was fought.
There was iormerly an asylum for aged Protestants
here ; during the war it was used as an ambulance, but
is now opened as a pension for children, who pay about
£12 or £j$ per year. We were much interested in the
congregation, — about sixty country people, smaU land
owners, — the men in blue blouses, and the women in
white caps. The Address was read by the minister, and
after his sermon H. Hipsley spoke. Mile. Sabatier trans
lating for him. The minister referred to our presence,
sajring he hoped the tracts and Addresses would be
carefully read ; and we gave each an Address and a
tract at the door. As the people gathered round us
I told them a little about our mission work in London,
when the minister invited them to come into the church
again and hear, instead of standing in the sun. They
very much pressed us to visit some of the other viUage

36 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
congregations, promising to let the people know, and
that they would come and meet us any time.
" In the afternoon a very interesting meeting was held
in the temple at Orleans ; there were about three hundred
present, principaUy tradespeople, and nearly all
CathoUcs. R. Alsop read No. 2 Address ; then Christine
Alsop spoke, expressing our sympathy for France, and
of the great need of the reception of the Gospel of our
Saviour Jesus Christ ; H. Hipsley said a few words, and
the meeting was closed with prayer from R. Alsop. We
distributed the Addresses and Gospels at the door.
It was a meeting likely to do good ; nothing of the sort
had ever been tried at Orleans, which is the centre of
Roman CathoHcism, only 300 Protestants in a population
of 49,100. The people have, of course, suffered much
from Prussian occupation and requisitions ; but Orleans
is a rich city, and we do not think there is at present
much distress.
" 19^^. — ^Left Orleans for Mer, where we arrived about
mid-day ; we passed some hours in visiting the people
in their houses. Mer has a population of 4,000, about
300 of whom are Protestants. They seem a very in
teresting class of people, many being small farmers
cultivating their own land (from six to twenty acres
or so). In the evening a pubUc meeting was held, about
half being Catholics ; and the next morning I had a
meeting with about a hundred children; they were much
interested in hearing of my poor children in London.
After this Christine Alsop joined us, and we had a meet
ing with about fifty of the country women, talking to
them about holding Bible classes or reading meetings

MISSION WORK IN FRANCE. n
with their neighbours, and especiaUy pressing on the
Christians among them the duty and privUege oi making
known the love oi God in Christ Jesus. . . .
" 20i!A.— Leit Mer ior Blois.
" 22nd. — ^Tours. Called on the pasteur, Mons. Fusier,
and several EngUsh residents, who were much interested
in our mission. On Sunday H. H. and I went to the
Sunday School, which seemed to be conducted entirely
by the pasteur, but he allowed me to address the
children. We all attended the service in the temple at
two o'clock, and were iniormed that three-fourths of
the congregation were formerly Roman CathoUcs. In
the evening a public meeting was held, about 200 present.
Some of the Protestants told us afterwards they were
very thankful ior the meeting, and ior the CathoUcs
present to hear the simple Gospel message, and also that
they might know that Protestants are Christians, for it
seems the priests often teU them the contrary.
" Monday morning. — ^Had a meeting with ten or twelve
oi the more influential Protestants at the hotel, ior a
short conierence on mission work, which we hope may
be the means oi encouraging them to more active
service ; aiter a time oi prayer together, they leit,
thanking us very warmly ior our interest and sympathy.
" I then went with the pasteur to visit both the boys'
and girls' day schools, speaking to them ior some time,
and in the aiternoon H. H. and I started ior Paris, and
the rest oi our party for Angus or Nantes. The next
day we spent in Paris, visiting some of the mission work
there, and reached London on the 27th, five weeks after
we left England."

38 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
After a time of rest Robert and Christine Alsop re
sumed their labours in France in 1872. Martha Braith
waite, jun. (now Baker), and I accompanied them. We
spent some time at Lyons and MarseiUes, and in the
latter place started a sewing class for mothers. During
the visits over 70,000 of the Addresses were distributed
in France, and 10,000 Scripture portions.
Friends have, in the districts where so much has been
done by the " War Victims' Fund " Committee, an
immense influence, and many seemed quite touched on
learning that we not only cared for their bodies, but for
their souls. When C. Alsop took leave of one pasteur's
wife, she said : ' Thank you very much for aU the good
you have done us.'
The foUowing letter was written by a lady to C. Alsop.
BeUevUle is a poor part of Paris, where the people
suffered greatly at the time of the Commune. MUe. de
Broen assisted R. and C. Alsop in the distribution of
the Addresses, and aiterwards, on their initiative, estab
lished a valuable work in that district.
" Dear Madam, — On Thursday, the i8th oi January,
I had the joy oi attending the little fete given by MUe.
de Broen to these poor women at BeUeviUe ; yes, it was
a great joy to see so many poor creatures tasting for
once so sweet an hour of recreation. Three long
tables had been set for them. The ladies who had
come as visitors poured out the cafd-au-lait and the
chocolate, etc. . . And I can say, dear Madam,
that I was deeply affected by hearing the words oi
gratitude expressed by these poor women. ' See,' said
one, ' these ladies wait upon us with so much affection.'

MISSION WORK IN FRANCE. 39
Another said to me, ' How tired you are getting ; you
wiU surely gain heaven.' Another, ' It is really a
wedding ieast, I never had such a good one.' But I
must teU you that the best result oi this iete has been to
make us acquainted with the excellence oi this work,
and see the real good it is calculated to do by soothing
and comiorting many hearts ; and especially, may we
not beUeve that in time and with the grace oi God it
will be the means oi regenerating many souls which,
without this help sent irom heaven, might have always
remained in sin and corruption."
In going and returning through Paris, the classes and
mothers' meetings under the care oi Madame Dalencourt
were again visited, and at the present time (1910), this
work, as well as some oi a similar character, inaugur
ated by our Friends during these visits, is still carried
on ; small money grants to more than twenty towns in
France are given annuaUy for the work. The Hon.
Secretary is Miss C. L. Braithwaite, 312, Camden Road,
London.

CHAPTER IV.
KNITTING INDUSTRY, IRELAND.
After my marriage with Richard Allen, of DubUn,
(1873), the mission work in London was still carried on
(though the 800 children in the Ragged Schools were
under the London School Board). There was the
Men's Adult School at Motley Street, four Mothers'
Meetings weekly in Shoreditch, and other classes. The
house, 24, Charles Square, Hoxton, was now the centre
of our London work. Three or iour ladies lived there
and devoted their time in visiting the homes of the poor ;
this brought us frequently to London.
The life in Ireland was also full of engagements — as the
Gospel meetings at Brooklawn, in the house and grounds
(occasionaUy in a tent), and various duties amongst the
Irish peasantry, testified.
A new sphere of usefulness opened in 1879-80, of
which the following account, written by Richard AUen's
niece, Margaret AUen (now Mrs. Harrison) teUs : —
" In the years 1879 and 1880 there was great distress
in many parts of Ireland, owing to exceptionaUy wet
seasons and deficient harvests which deprived the poorer
population of their usual winter suppHes,
" The distress was greatest in Connaught, but existed
in other places, and in Dublin there were many to

KNITTING INDUSTRY, IRELAND. 41
whom the problem of Hving was more difficult than
usual. "It was ielt by many who wished to help in Ughtening
the burden that there might be better ways oi doing
so than by giving money gratuitously, and Mrs. Marriage
Allen conceived the idea oi starting a knitting industry
in various centres. This scheme proved a marveUous
success ; ladies were iound everywhere who were
willing to undertake to receive parcels oi wool, to give
them out to knitters, to receive the finished articles,
to pay the workers, and despatch the socks, stockings,
etc., to DubUn.
"In those days the parcel post was not ; it had not
even been thought oi ; and many oi the packages and
bales made their journey by the Globe Parcels'
Express. "One oi the first steps taken was to organise a ladies'
committee oi the Society oi Friends, which met weekly
at Eustace Street, Dublin. We started with a sum oi
£15, contributed by Friends, but beiore concluding
our labours we had circulated about £1,500.
" We began with a few centres, but the number in
creased very rapidly. More funds came in, and we were
able to extend our operations. Wool was bought in
quantity, and sent down to various ladies, wives of
clergymen and ministers, and others who wiUingly
joined in the work.
"The next step was to find a market for the knitted
articles ; this was done by means of letters and ad
vertisements, etc., and this part of the work involved
a good deal of labour and correspondence.

42 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
"The work was oi various quaUties: much was
beautiiuUy done ; but we sometimes had very oddly
shapedT ioot-wear, ior which it was not easy to
obtain customers.
"It was very interesting to open the large parcels as
they arrived, and very pleasant when we could praise
and admire ; but sometimes we had to look very doubt
fully and ask ' What can we do with these ? ' For it
was sometimes almost impossible to find a pair amongst
them ! The socks and stockings were generaUy washed
on arrival, unless this had been done before sending them
on. We dried them on wooden blocks oi suitable size,
and the kitchen at ' Brooklawn ' was oiten to be seen
with dozens oi pairs hanging irom every available point.
Then iollowed the pairing, sewing on price tickets and
tying up in neat parcels.
" Several young ladies living near used to come and
help, and ' Brooklawn ' was a busy house.
"Sometimes one post would bring in many orders,
and nearly twenty parcels would be taken to the Globe
Parcels' Express Office.
" The correspondence and the keeping accounts, both
for the outgoing and the incoming, was no trifling matter;
but everyone worked with a wiU, and the interest grew
and deepened week by week.
"Knitting was also done by many poor women in
DubUn, and proved a great boon to many. I well
remember the keen deUght of one very poor mother,
whom I was to pay ior two or three weeks' work, some
oi which had been done irom one o'clock on long June
mornings (for a Uttle work was done during the summer).

KNITTING INDUSTRY, IRELAND. 43
She had earned ten shillings, and I asked her if she would
Uke ' a bit of gold.'
" ' Oh, miss,' she said, ' I never had a bit of gold in
my life.'
" I said : ' You can have one now ii you Uke.' And
she went away in a rejoicing state, carrying a hali
sovereign. " There were also sewing classes, held in DubUn, on
tliree or iour days oi the week, presided over by different
ladies and at these hundreds oi garments were made and
sent down to places where the distress was keen."
Although the time is now long past, it remains a very
pleasant memory, and though the undertaking proved
no Ught one, there was much enjoyment iound in it,
and we ielt that it was work done for the Master, and
that it had His blessing.

CHAPTER V.
VISIT TO AMERICA WITH RICHARD ALLEN.
Our dear mother was educated at Maria Blake's school
in Norwich, with some of the Gurney family, and was
much interested in the anti-slavery struggle ; she gave
to her chUdren, as they grew up, the Life of Sir Thomas
FoweU Buxton, and other books, such as the Life of
Clarkson, WilHam Wilberforce, etc.
In this way I became acquainted with the struggle
between the slavery and anti -slavery parties in America.
During the CivU War 1860-65, I was very desirous
to go into the States, and help in the education of the
freed slaves.
I wrote to my dear uncle Isaac Brown on the subject ;
he was very sympathetic, though he questioned if the
time had come ; but he added, " I pray that our
Heavenly Father may open the way for thy energies in
our own country."
Soon after this Mrs. Alfred Bennett asked if I could
help in the Bible Mission work in London estabUshed by
Mrs. Ranyard ; this I was shortly able to do.
Then the cholera broke out in Bethnal Green, Spital
fields and Shoreditch. Friends started reUef work,
giving away clothing, bedding, beef -tea, etc., at the
Bedford Institute, which had not long been erected.

AMERICA WITH RICHARD ALLEN. 45
John Hine, Edmund Pace and wife, and William Beck,
were deeply interested, and several young Friends,
myself amongst the number, visited the sick and dis
tributed reUef. But aU this time I had an underlying
drawing to help the oppressed coloured people.
After my marriage with Richard AUen this feeUng
deepened, for he had taken a good deal of part in the
anti-slavery agitation ; Frederic C. Douglas, and other
workers in the cause, were his personal friends.
In 1883, some of our family having moved to the
United States, we proposed to visit them, but hesitated
on account oi my husband's advanced age. I said
to him one day, " Do not think oi this tour, unless thee
beUeve it a right step, but if I outlive thee, I beUeve
way will open for me to labour amongst the coloured
people." He replied, " I know, and that is why I wish
to go." A few days later, to my surprise he told me that
he had engaged our passage to America. After visiting
our relations in Iowa, we attended the Yearly Meeting
at Richmond, Indiana, and were most hospitably enter
tained by Charles and Rhoda Coffin ; then went south
to Helena, Arkansas, to visit the Coloured School,
under the care of Richmond Yearly Meeting, of which
Calvin and AHda Clarke were the Principals. It was a
most interesting place, all the students coloured ; we
had many meetings with them. I remember giving
the children a lesson from my little gold watch ; there
was a farewell meeting before we left, when amongst
other speakers, a Uttle boy got up and said, " I enjoyed
the Httle watch talk, and noticed on the back a
little ornament made of precious stones, and it made

46 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
me think that we children are the ornaments of Christ's
Church." I asked onr friends about him afterwards,
and they said he was a beautiful Httle Christian, and had
brought others to the Sunday School.
This institution was largely helped by funds from our
Friend, George Sturge.
We also visited NashviUe CoUege, Tennessee, from
which the first Jubilee Singers came ; here we had a very
hearty welcome when it was known that Richard Allen
was one of those represented in the large painting by
Haydon ol the Anti-slavery Conference held in London
in 1840. A copy of this picture was in the superin
tendent's reception room.
After this we went to the Le Moyne Institute, Memphis,
where over 400 students are trained for pastors and
teachers. The Principal was A. J. Steele, who had devoted
himself from the time of the war to the education of
the coloured people.
The following is an extract from his letter written in
the prospect of a second visit from me in November,
1886, after my dear husband had passed away : —
" I am glad you are moved to look more closely into
the condition and needs of the freedmen in this country.
You wiU, at the outset, and on every hand, find great
need of work, the opportunity and conditions for its
successful prosecution wiU doubtless perplex you more,
and yet I am convinced, after over sixteen years of
experience, that there are in the way no obstacles or
conditions that may not be overcome, and none that
may not be reasonably explained in view of the ante-

AMERICA WITH RICHARD ALLEN. 47
cedent condition of the people under slavery. You
may find them very suspicious and unresponsive, traits
not often attributed to them, but which they possess
in very great degree, and which doubtless they have
come by honestly from their past experience with white
people. "Confidence is said to be ' a plant of slow growth,'
and those who would enter this work must be content
that it is so, and plan accordingly ; and surely remem
bering the infinite patience of our Heavenly Father
with us and all His creatures, we can wait as we work
with all hope and assurance concerning the task He leads
us to."
In November we attended Baltimore Yearly Meeting,
which we much enjoyed, and were entertained by our
dear friends, James Carey and Mary WhitaU Thomas.
With thankful hearts we returned home, my dear
husband being greatly cheered by having seen the
progress the freed slaves were making reUgiously,
moraUy and educationaUy.
These visits opened the way for me, when in the
autunrn of 1886 I entered more fully on the work.

CHAPTER VI.
WORK AMONGST THE COLOURED PEOPLE. I.
After my dear husband's Home CaU, I felt the time
had come to pay another visit to the United States, and
left Ireland in October, 1886, staying again during the
Baltimore Yearly Meeting with Dr. James Carey and
Mary WhitaU Thomas.
When the meeting was over I went with Sarah C.
Harris down the Chesapeake Bay to Norfolk. Va., and
thence by rail through part of the Great Dismal Swamp,
the scene of Harriet Beecher Stowe's " Dred," to
FrankUn, Va., and for a time made my home with
Robert T. Harris and sister.
Sarah C. Harris went with me to various places in
Virginia, also to North CaroHna, where I was speciaUy
anxious to pay some visits. We drove from FrankUn,
Va., to Belvedere, a long distance ; John Pretlow kindly
lent his carriage and pair of horses ; his nephew, Joseph
John Gurney White, drove us. After a while we came
to a small stream, a " branch," as it is caUed ; the bridge
over it consisted of a few planks, some of which were
broken, and others loose ; it looked impossible for our
large, old-fashioned " famUy coach " and horses to cross,
but our driver dismounted, and quickly repaired the
bridge with some rails from the fence by the road side,
?8

WORK AMONGST COLOURED PEOPLE. 49
and we went over safely. At lunch time the horses were
taken out and " hitched up " in a wood by the side of the
road, and a fire Ughted in the hollow of a tree.
As we were sitting by this pinewood fire, my mind
went back (it was Christmas day) to the last Christmas.
when our large f amUy party was gathered at Brooklawn
— sixty-three in all — ^what a contrast !
After lunch we went on to Brownsville on the way,
where a meeting was arranged for us. Here a Northern
gentleman had recently erected a saw-mill, around which
quite a town had sprung up. I was to give an account
of my visit to Palestine to the white people in the
afternoon, and to the coloured ones in the evening.
Only Mr. Brown went with us to the latter ; the ladies
did not seem very hearty, as they did not approve of
our meeting with the coloured people.
We had considerable reUgious conversation around
the supper table. On being asked if there were any
missionary zeal in their church Mr. Brown answered in
the affirmative. I then said : " If any of your members
felt that the Lord called them to go to Africa, would the
Church be Ukely to help them forward ? " Again assent.
" But how would it be if they were caUed to work
amongst the Africans in your midst ? " " Oh, that
is a different thing, I do not think they would take it
up." Next morning we proceeded to Belvedere, and had
a week's meetings in the neighbourhood. In visiting
different districts I was advised to have meetings with
the white people first, as if it were known I was
specially interested in the coloured, it would cause much

50 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
prejudice ; this I did, but as time went on I visited the
coloured schools and churches ; this was very unpopular.
I remarked once to a young man who took us to a good
many meetings : " It is very kind of you to drive us
so often." " Oh," said he, " I'm quite used to hauHn'
preachers around ! "
I felt I could not impose too much on our Friends by
so constantly using their horses and buggies, so bought
a horse of our Friend WilUam Hare, of Somerton ;
(the Friends' meeting there was estabUshed after George
Fox's visit). I purchased also a buggy, a high, four-
wheeled gig, weU suited for the soft sandy soU and
swampy land of that State, and a set of harness of our
Friend James Jones ; this made me rather more inde
pendent. The horse was called " The Gospel Horse,"
and took S. C. Harris and myself many drives through
the pine woods of Virginia to the schools and coloured
churches ; one of these drives is fixed distinctly in my
memory. A meeting had been appointed one evening in a
coloured church, Tucker's Swamp. I drove my horse
from Robt. T. Harris's, Franklin, Va., to Corinth, alone,
about seven miles, to see if I could get a Friend to go
with me to Tucker's Swamp in the evening. Mills
Raiford, who had been very helpful when I stayed a
week there previously, was out, so his brother Edwin
kindly went with me through the pine woods. The
people were very late in coming, but we had a good
meeting. About 9.30 E. R. asked me if he should hitch
up the horse, as we sang our concluding hyraxi ; but
he soon returned, saying, " Sister AUen, what shall we

WORK AMONGST COLOURED PEOPLE. ji
do ? thy horse gave me the sUp as I was putting on the
blinkers, and is off through the woods ! "
I said : " Cannot we get another of some of the
farmers near ? "
" Oh, no," said he, " No one wiU let us have one, as
you are holding meetings with the coloured people,
and none of them possess one."
I remarked to an old woman by me, " I wonder why
this has happened ? "
" It's ould Satan, he knows you were trying to do us
poor creatures good, an' he's just got into your horse
and made him run away."
After awhile E. Raiford returned. " Friend AUen,
can thee ride home in an ox-cart ? If so, this man will
drive us." So the nice new buggy was left out in the
wood ; we took the whip and rug and started.
As we neared Corinth, E. R. said, " Thee sta3'ed with
thy Gospel Horse a week with my brother MiUs ; I think
when the horse gets hungry he wiU make his way there,
so I will open the yard gate as we pass."
It was between i and 2 a.m. when we reached E. R.'s
house, his wife very anxious about us. You may be sure
I prayed that all would yet come right. Next morning,
about 6 a.m.. Mills Raiford came in great trouble to
his brother's, saying, " I found Friend Allen's horse in
ray yard, with its nice new harness on, and no buggy.
What can have happened ? "
The matter was soon explained, and after breakfast
the horse was taken to ietch the buggy.
About this time I heard oi an old gentleman who
drove about the country holding meetings ; he had a

52 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
horse named " Graphy." Many hundred miles they
journeyed together ; when he wished to proceed more
speedily, he would get his whip, shake the reins, and
say " Gee-o-Graphy, Gee-o-Graphy." As this horse
was more fully acquainted with the country than most,
it gave rise to the saying, probably beUeved by some,
that this was the derivation of the name, by which the
science of the earth is called !
Now as my horse was also fully acquainted with the
roads and paths in the woods, through visiting the
coloured meetings and schools, and had disgraced his first
name by slipping off on his own account, and leaving me
in difiiculties, after this, I called him " Graphy."
The more I saw of the coloured people, the more I
was struck with their earnestness, with their love for
their Churches, and I may say, their love for Christ ;
but they needed building up in the Christian character.
The foUowing are from notes made at the time : —
" It has been my privilege to spend two winters, 1886-
1888, amongst these people, principally in Virginia and
North CaroHna, and only those intimately acquainted
with the South can understand the difficulties they have
to encounter.
" The advances they have made in the last twenty-
three years since they obtained freedom are truly
surprising, especially in their church organisations.
"It is wonderful to see the large congregations which
gather in their barn-Hke places of worship in the woods,
with their elders and deacons, though sometimes these
can hardly read a chapter in the Bible so as to be under
stood.

WORK AMONGST COLOURED PEOPLE. 53
" The winter before last I confined my work chiefly
to visiting their day and Sabbath schools, and holding
reUgious meetings with them. As I became more ac
quainted with this deeply interesting race. I was con
vinced it was not so much urging to come to Christ that
they needed, as to be taught and helped forward in the
practical results of Christianity; so last winter I
encouraged the formation of Bible reading, and Temper
ance Societies, Bands of Hope, Mothers' Meetings,
and Sewing Classes for Girls.
" I was fortunate in being acquainted with one of their
teachers, Mrs. D. I. Hayden, who, during the summer,
has superintended the work thus organised. Sarah C.
Harris and I frequently held three meetings in the day,
driving first seven or eight miles to a frame or log house
in the woods, where the horse was hitched up, while
we held a meeting, or talked to the school chUdren as
the case might be.
" We took with us fodder for the horse, Testaments and
hymn sheets, with pieces for recitation, also our lunch ;
then drove on to the next school-house or church, six
or eight mUes distant, frequently holding the third
meeting somewhere on our return ; or, when near any
Friends' house, staying the night, and driving on for
other meetings next day.
" Very few white people, except Friends, wiU take you
in to lodge, if holding meetings with the coloured people ;
so in this thinly populated district we often had long,
dark drives through the woods to get back at night.
" When in North CaroHna, we were out for twelve days,
lodging at different Friends' houses, thus making the

54 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
tour of the country, I made the calculation that in the
winter of 1887-8 I was driven 1500 miles and held 195
meetings, "The public schools for coloured people in North
Carolina are only open three months in the year, so that
the education the children get is very meagre. The New
York Friends supplement this in Randolph County by
paying the teachers in about fifteen schools for two
months, when the school term is over. B. Franklin
Blair superintends this work for the New York Friends,
and was very kind in taking me to the different schools
and churches. There is great need of normal schools
for training coloured teachers ; the people are so anxious
to learn, but need something to encourage and stimulate
them in temperance, moraUty and thrift."
I think a few extracts from letters in 1888 will show
that if started and put in the way, the coloured people
are appreciative and desirous of carrying on this work.
The first is from a simple coloured girl, who had charge
of a school in a country part. Her children were, except
during school time, generaUy engaged in picking cotton
and pea-nuts. She had about sixty Uttle curly-headed,
black-eyed negroes under her care. She begasi the
temperance work by talking to them about giving up
cider and other intoxicating drinks, and, through them
had reached the parents, so that^yhen I visited theOberry
Church, over a hundred members had joined the Tem
perance Society. This Church was near the home of our
Friends John and Deborah Pretlow, and doubtless their
influence had told on the people and made them more
ready to go forward.

WORK AMONGST COLOURED PEOPLE. 55
This teacher, Maggie Stephens, wrote : —
" Myself and others are doing what we can by the help
of the Lord to keep the temperance work moving on.
We stiU hold our meetings at Oberry every fourth
Sunday, and at the Richard Allen Mission, every third
Simday afternoon. The Oberry members have done
well in helping to spread the work in other churches. All
of us have great need to render thanks for the interest
you are taking in our poor race. Many a prayer goes
to God's throne on your behalf. I have my sewing
school every Wednesday afternoon ; we have very few
grown-up people, but a great many chUdren. We have
real good meetings every Wednesday, when anybody
can get up and speak for the Lord, just as they wish.
I am so thankful that my life can be spent in the Lord's
service. The only true happiness I have f oimd, has been
in working for Him."
The Richard AUen mission room was built on a piece
of land near Robert T. Harris's, as it was found so
difi&cult to get a place in which to hold meetings in that
district, on account of the prejudice against the coloured
people. Mrs. Hayden wrote : —
" I went to CarrsviUe some time ago, and found the
temperance cause nearly dead. You see it was left in
weak hands, and that young man did not know what
to do to make it interesting. After their minister had
been preaching, I introduced my work, but found the
people very hard to turn. I deUvered a lecture, and
caUed on Mr.  , who spoke weU. He then asked for
names, and one signed. I talked about ten minutes

56 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
more and offered prayer ; after which twenty-one persons
joined. The second Sunday in August, thirty-eight
members came iorward at DrewnesviUe, a real whisky
district. These are looking to a visit irom you. We
hold most oi our meetings on Sunday, because a better
crowd collects, and we can do more good. The week
beiore last our Church at Cool Spring had a revival ;
sixty-one persons proiessed Christ, and thirty-one were
baptised and added to the Church. The coloured people
at Poplar Mount are doing weU ; most oi them own their
houses, also their fine-looking mules and horses.
The young people are being educated. No brandy or
whisky is allowed to be sold in that county, which
accounts ior their prosperous condition. Last Sunday
I paid my third visit to CarrsviUe, and gave them a few
books and papers, and instructed them how to hold and
manage their meetings. I feel that I left thera in a
very good condtion."
Later on Mrs. H. wrote : —
" I am very busy helping the teachers to get ready for
the county examination. Some are fearful they will
not pass. I am also engaged sending off young people
to schools to be trained as teachers. Five have gone
to Hampton, and four to Petersburg State School. You
can see we are busy all the time, and I do so much enjoy
it, feeUng good is being done, and I do so long to see the
the day when ray people will be as weU trained as other
races. What a blessing if they can be trained raoraUy
and reUgiously ! "
MiUs Raiford wrote : —
" I have been to Ebenezer twice, once to a temperance

WORK AMONGST COLOURED PEOPLE. S7
raeeting, which I believe was the raost interesting one
we have had there yet, and one day I went to their
protracted raeeting. I just wished thee could have
been there ; such shouting aU over the congregation we
have never heard before. I have lately been to the
teraperance meeting at Tucker Swamp — a very interest
ing tirae ; no men, mostly women and children, who are
rauch in earnest. I have been to the Richard AUen
raission again. It does my heart good to go there;
they are so rauch in earnest."
Later, he wrote : —
" Early on Sabbath raorning I went to Daniel's "
(a coloured man who lives near in a log house where a
Sabbath school has lately been established) " to give
sorae directions about the school. I tried to teach
Daniel, EUza and Ada, who were helping with the chil
dren, the twenty-third Psalra, that they raight be able
to teach the children in the afternoon. Last seventh-day
we had the teraperance raeeting in Tucker Swarap, then
a heavy rain came on, and prevented many frora leaving,
but nearly everyone had a piece to say. Several had
badges of blue caUco with white letters B. of H. sewed
on. I thought it was real nice. It is encouraging to
see how the coloured people have laid hold of temperance
work.^' The following is from a man who signed the pledge
at FrankUn : —
" Dear Mrs. AUen, — I feel interested because you
have been so kind as to leave your beautiful horae in the
far east, and corae to spend your tirae and raoney in
trying to Christianise our race, and to cause them to

58 SKETCHES OE WORK AND TRAVEL,
stop indulging in King Alcohol, that great soul destroyer.
In 1883 and 1884 I was engaged in selling Hquors as a
Hcensed bar-keeper. To-day I belong to the Temperance
Society, and am determined to do all the good I can in
that direction. I think the Lord must have sent you
here, because I never had any idea of signing the pledge
in my life, for I never got drunk, and I saw no need of
signing, untU I heard you talk in Cool Spring Church.
I pray that God may bless you and send you back again
amongst us this faU."
It is only right to add that the coloured people are
not more addicted to intoxicating drinks than the whites ;
and that their teachers are as a rule decided Christians ;
so that those who come under their care are Hkely to grow
up useful raen and women, so different from others who
are sadly neglected in the country districts.

CHAPTER VII.
WORK AMONGST THE COLOURED PEOPLE. II.
I think the nature of the work amongst the coloured
people will be better understood if I copy a few
particulars of my visit to the States in the winter of
1889-90. I landed at New York, November 7th, and went on
to Pliiladelphia, where I paid two visits to Mrs. Coppin's
school, in which Friends are much interested.
On November 8th I went to Wistar Morris' to meet
Dr. Whitney, of. Japan, and his wife, stayed at Sarah
Scull's ; on the nth I had a meeting at the African
M. E. Church, and in the evening went on to Baltimore
to John C. and Genie Thomas' for the Baltimore
Yearly Meeting.
After this I visited Friends, and the coloured meetings
and schools at Ashton and neighbourhood tiU November
22nd. Then down the Chesapeake Bay to Norfolk, Va.,
on to FrankUn, and to the coloured schools and churches
where we had previously estabUshed Temperance
Meetings. Four very busy days were spent here ;
I returned to Baltimore on the 29th, leaving the next
day for Cedar Creek and neighbourhood. Charles J.
Thomas and Isaac Thompson kindly drove me to the
39

6o SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
coloured schools and churches. The names of the
coloured churches interested me : one was named
" Hosanna " ; another " Mount Zoar " ; a Baptist
one at Franklin "Cool Spring"; others were "Saints'
DeUght " ; " Mount Sinai " ; " White Oak Spring " ;
" Shiloh " ; and several were named " Bethel."
I returned to Baltimore December gth.
The interest shown by Baltimore Friends in the work
was great. Dr. James Carey and Mary WhitaU Thomas
were most kind, and our Friend, Francis T. King, being
so well-known by the coloured people, was able to intro
duce rae to some of their bishops and leading preachers.
It was very interesting to visit their Churches and
Schools. On December 21st I was again at FrankUn,
arriving at 10.30 a.m. We had arranged to hold a
Conference with the ministers and Sunday and day-
school teachers, which took place at the New Mission
House that evening.
This was buUt, as previously stated, near Robert T.
Harris' house (at a cost of about £30), he kindly super
intending its erection. It was caUed the Richard AUen
Mission House, and seemed needful, as there was so
much objection to any gatherings for coloured people
being held in the same meeting or school-houses as
those used by the whites. I found this Mission House
most convenient on my visits, when unable to drive
to places at a distance.
The Conference mentioned above gave a great spur
to the work, the ministers forwarding the temperance
cause in their churches, and heartily encouraging tbe
day and Sunday school teachers.

WORK AMONGST COLOURED PEOPLE. 6i
On Christmas Day, 1889, an all-day meeting was held
at FrankUn, representatives coming frora miles round,
bringing their " basket dinners " ; children from various
schools gave capital temperance recitations, teachers
reported how many pledged abstainers they had in their
schools, and some excellent addresses were given by
Mrs. D. I. Hayden, Maggie Stephens, and others ; about
400 were present.
On December 29th we drove to Cedar Grove Church
to organise a Temperance Society, and on December
30th to Shiloh Church, where seventy-five took the
pledge. Early in 1890 Scripture Union Reading Cards were
received from England, and in most cases we united
Bible Bands with temperance work.
The first few weeks in the New Year were taken up
with visiting or re-visiting schools and churches, where
work had been previously started. In most of the
schools Friday afternoon was given up for the children
to " speak pieces." In out of the way places, log or
frame school-houses in the woods, it was very difficult
to get suitable pieces for the purpose.
When in Baltimore, friends sent us old Christmas
cards, and Professor and Elizabeth Emmott's chUdren
helped me to paste hymns and teraperance poems
on the back oi the cards ; these were much appre
ciated by the children, and introduced a better class
of recitations.
Thus January was spent in going to schools and
meetings within driving distance for " Graphy," Sarah
C. Harris generally accompanying rae.

62 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
On the 30th, I went by train to Raleigh, North
CaroHna, where I was kindly entertained by EHhu Wiate
and famUy ; visited Shaw University, a training coUege
for coloured ministers and teachers (president Rev.
Tupper), also several day schools, and a mission con
ducted by two white ladies connected with the Baptist
Missionary Society.
F. B. Blair and Fernando Cartland were most kind in
going with me to many churches and schools in the
neighbourhood of High Point. We went to Greens-
borough (the Verdant Town of Judge Tourgee's " Bricks
without Straw "), visited WamersviUe, named after
Yardley Warner, who did such a good work in 1865,
by buying land which was sold for the recently
freed slaves; also New Garden, Winston-Salem and
Charlotte. I went to Salisbury to visit Livingstone CoUege,
conducted entirely by the coloured people, with good
buildings, teachers' houses, etc., had several meetings
with the students and took seventy-six pledges ; I also
spoke in the day school, where seventy-three joined the
Temperance Society.
My visit to Scotia Seminary, Concord, a boarding school
for coloured girls, connected with the Northern Presby
terians (Principal, Rev. Sattersfield), was specially-
interesting ; I stayed two days. These young people
much enjoyed hearing about my stay in the Holy Land ;
many of them joined the Scripture Reading Union.
I find on referring to my note book that from January
5th to February 27th, 1,279 persons signed the pledge.
The W.C.T.U. had a coloured branch at work in North

WORK AMONGST COLOURED PEOPLE. 63
CaroHna, specially at Winston-Salem and Charlotte,
which was helpful in my visits.
It was very easy to get good meetings in these places,
by visiting the day schools first, and teUing the children
that I had been to Bethlehem where Jesus was born,
and asking them to come to the Church with their
parents in the evening, when they would hear more
about the Holy Land. It seemed a revelation to many
of the " old time " people that the places mentioned in
the Bible can be seen at the present day — that Canaan
is a real country, as well as the Heavenly land about
which they sing — that there is an actual river Jordan,
which is used to typify the " One more river to cross "
oi their hymn.
These talks opened the way ior the iormation oi Bible
Bands. February 27th, I arrived at AshviUe, which is situated
amidst lovely scenery, on the Great Smoky Mountains,
a spur oi the AUeghanies, and called on two ladies,
connected with the Women's Methodist Missionary
Society, who had a Cottage Home and Day School
adjoining, with four girls at that time in the Home.
I have visited this place several times since ; they have
now a substantial Home for forty girls, with large school
rooms and Day School attached, and Coloured Church
opposite. Miss Dole is Principal, and has several
white as well as coloured teachers to assist her with the
boarders and about 200 day scholars.
I stayed at the Home three weeks in 1906, and visited
schools in the neighbourhood under the care of former
students. The late Mr. Pease, of AshviUe, a gentleraan

64 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
much interested in the Mountain Whites, assisted greatly
in planning the building ; Mrs. Pease is now one of their
kind and generous friends.
From AshviUe I went to Mary viUe, FriendsviUe (where
our Friend WilUam Forster was buried), and KnoxviUe
in Tennessee; thence to Atlanta in Georgia, staying
at Spelman Seminary, where 600 girls from fourteen to
twenty-six years of age were receiving splendid training
(sorae are day scholars). This school was estabUshed by
Miss Packard and Miss  . I shaU never forget
looking over the heads of that company, during morning
worship, at the words in large letters on the opposite
wall. " Our whole school for Christ," and feeUng what
a privilege and responsibihty it was to address them.
There is a great work for the coloured people going
on in Atlanta, where I stayed a month. Besides the
Spelman Seminary, there is Clark University, the
Baptist Gammon Theological College and other institu
tions oi a similar kind.
One oi my experiences here was amusing. I had
arranged ior a conierence with ministers and teachers
from the city, and thought it would be pleasant to [close
the evening with light refreshments. Hearing that
bananas were to be purchased most advantageously
in the market, and that it would be best to buy a whole
bunch, I set off to get them. The bunch was put
into the tram car with me, but, alas ! I soon discovered
that the one I had mounted did not pass Spelman,
where I was staying. What was to be done ? The car
stopped as close to it as possible, and the conductor
kindly placed the bunch of bananas, about 150, on my

WORK AMONGST COLOURED PEOPLE. 65
shoulders. I felt thankful there was no one to see me.
Before long, however, the weight became quite too much ;
I could not remove it myself, nor go on ; now I longed
to see someone, and was rejoiced when a working-man
came in sight. When he heard about the Conference
for his people, he wilUngly shouldered my burden.
As we walked on together and entered into conversa
tion, he told me that Clark University, close by, was his
Alma Mater !
I left Atlanta for Chattanooga, and stayed with Mr.
and Mrs. Loomis, people zealous in every good work ;
then on over 300 railes to the Le Mojme Institute,
Memphis. Memphis is a large city ; when I think of it, I
shaU always picture the heavily laden wagons piled
with bales of cotton and drawn by mules passing
through its streets, with negro drivers; and the
numbers of black nurses taking care of Uttle white
babies, the splendid magnolia trees and the grand
Mississippi River.
My dear husband and I visited Le Moyne Institute
in 1883. About 600 students, boarders and day scholars
are receiving a good education here.
On one of my visits, whUst sitting for some time in
the Library, one coloured student aiter another carae
to get one oi Emerson's works, some prose, some poetry.
Aiter a while, being curious, I asked why they all wanted
Emerson, and was told that at RoU CaU at the Literary
Meeting that evening, each student had to recite irom
memory a quotation from Emerson, instead of siraply
answering to his or her narae. 5

66 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
Professor Steele was stiU the Principal of this Institute
and only recently retired (1910).
When my visit to Memphis was concluded I went on
as related elsewhere, to San Francisco, en route for
Japan. The accounts I have given in this chapter are simple
records of the kind of work I was engaged in during the
seven winters spent in the United States, mainly working
amongst the coloured people. It is obvious that it
would be too tedious to go through them aU in detaU.

CHAPTER VIII,
FIRST VISIT TO JAPAN.
After working amongst the coloured people during
the winter, I left Memphis, Tennessee, and took the
long journey to San Francisco (2450 miles), to spend a
little time with my sister, Bessie Nolt, before proceeding
to Japan.
The following is copied from a letter written at the
time : — "San Francisco, April 15th, 1890.
" Leaving El Paso on the borders of Texas and
Mexico, we travelled through parts of New Mexico and
Arizona to Colton, near San Bernardino in Southern
California. " The journey was intensely hot ; Yuma is reckoned the
hottest place in America, and they teU of an Indian
from there who went to Hades, but found it so cool after
Yuma, that he sent back for his blanket !
" We saw some real wild-looking Indians round the
station there, and in other places.
" From Colton, where I spent a day and two nights,
I went to San Bernardino and Riverside.
" I wish you could have seen the orange trees ; but I
was constantly making a parody on two lines of
Coleridge's ' Ancient Mariner,' —
67

68 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
Oranges, oranges, everywhere,
But ne'er a one to eat !
" It reaUy did seem too bad. I left Colton for Los
Angeles and Pasadena, where I stayed part of two days
with some friends ; they were most kind, and took me
several drives, one to MUlar's Canyon. They also gaVe
me leave to get as many oranges in their grove as I
liked ; there were a good many Ijdng trader the trees,
smaU, but very sweet and ripe. I would not Hke to
tell you how many I ate ! Another day I was taken
to a large fruit-packing shed, and they gave us a number
of large naval oranges. Chinese were busy packing and
sotting them; 25,500 cases were to be shipped that day.
" I look to sail for Japan on the 26th. The voyage is
usually from sixteen to twenty days, and I am not
looking forward to it with unmixed pleasure, though I
expect the long rest wiU be helpful."
" Yokohama, May 17th, 1890.
"I propose to keep a letter in writing, and jot down
any little customs of the people, or incidents, as they
strike me. I am staying at Miss Brittan's boarding
house, on the Bluff. This is a very interesting place to
stay in, we see so many missionaries who come for a
few dajTs on their way back to America or England, from
China and other places, and you may be sure we have
many interesting conversations.
"Dr. Wright and his wife, of the British and Foreign
Bible Society, are here ; he knew my dear husband years
ago, also many leading Friends — ^was a missionary
in Damascus ten years — ^told me how he bought the

FIRST VISIT TO JAPAN. 69
late Francis Fry's coUection of Bibles ior the British
and Foreign Bible Society, ior £6,000, and that his
son, Theodore Fry, gave £1,500 towards it. We had a
great deal oi deeply interesting conversation ; he has
just come irom the Missionary Conierence at Shanghai,
1890 ; he told us that on the ialHng oi the platiorm
there, on which 300 missionaries were placed ready to
be photographed, they showed the greatest calmness
and seli-possession, or there would have been a most
serious loss oi liie. The platiorm was slung on bamboo
posts or poles ; the weight oi people caused it to sway ;
some one caUed out " Jump off," but he said in a calm,
clear voice, " Keep steady, keep steady," and this was
passed irom one to another so that when it lUtimately
gave way, and all were precipitated irom a considerable
height, no Uves were lost, though it is ieared several
were seriously hurt.
" Dr. Wright is in great spirits, as his mission to China
has been very successiul. The Bible there has been
pubUshed in several different dialects, but they have
agreed in iuture to have only one version.
"There is a good deal oi anxiety just now in Japan,
owing to the political state oi the country, and some
reaction which has set in with regard to foreigners and
foreign ways ; there have also been some acts of violence
towards missionaries. I do feel surprised at the way
some of them speak oi deiending themselves, carrying
pistols, etc. Many of them certainly have not the views
of Friends with regard to Christian non-resistance.
" The other morning two of the ladies here went
shopping with me. The street sights are very novel.

70 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
" We saw a man with a Httle traveUing sweet stand-
children round in their picturesque dresses and shaven
pates watching him, as, taking a Uttle sugar paste, he
placed it on the end of a straw, or piece of bamboo,
and quickly blew and moulded it into the shape of a
bird, opened a drawer, and with a brush painted its
eyes, beak and breast. This was sold for less than Jd.
Then he moulded in a wonderfully short time other
fantastical figures, which I bought, and intended to
bring home to show you, but ere night they melted
away ! They were meant to be eaten not kept.
" The china shops are very interesting ; we went to a
lovely silk store where the Duchess of Connaught, on
her recent visit to Japan, raade a good many purchases ;
their sUk crape is extremely beautiful and deUcate, and
they will embroider it with flowers or birds or any pattern
you choose. Most of the shops are open to the streets,
with only sUding screens or shutters ; the floor is raised
about eight inches from the ground, and covered with
pretty deUcate matting ; you stand in the street as we
do before a greengrocery or fish shop, or go in a Httle
way and sit on the raised part ; Some shops are more
in the EngHsh style with counters, but these are arranged
raore especially for foreigners. As you walk down the
street, you may see four or five people sitting on the
floors making wooden or straw shoes, in other shops
raen and boys carpentering, women embroidering,
and perhaps in the rear, the family partaking of dinner
or tea and eating their rice with chopsticks, the kettle
boiled over a Uttle charcoal stove. The houses are
sraaU, and you wonder where the people live and sleep ;

FIRST VISIT TO JAPAN. 71
they just lie down on soft quilts, and have no bedsteads
or furniture.
" May 24th.
" I left Yokohama this morning, and am now sitting
at a Httle country station waiting ior a return train.
I started to go to Dr. Whitney's at Tokio, but took the
wrong train.
"A number oi men are cutting down a hill, and moving
the earth to broaden the railway ; they have curious
hoes, about twelve inches long (the hoe part) ; the earth
is carried in a square piece oi rope netting, caught up
at the corners, and slimg on a stick or pole ; two men
carry it on their shoulders.
"The other day I was out with a missionary lady and
her Uttle girl, who has lovely golden hair ; she met a
lady friend who came and kissed the child. A number
of jinricksha-men, waiting to be employed, were greatly
interested in seeing the kissing, and partly I think at the
child's beautiful hair ; they looked and laughed, and
seemed so pleased, as they do not kiss or shake hands
when they meet, but bow very low, sometimes to the
ground. "In the parts I have seen they are a cleanly, industrious,
and apparently happy people.
"There is in the cities a good deal of distress owing to
the high price of rice ; the missionaries are reUeving
this through their Bible women who visit the homes
of the poor.
' ' The other day I went to a native Christian Conference ;
it was a kind of EvangeUcal AUiance, and there were

72 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
delegates from different country churches, only a few
missionaries as visitors ; there were about 200 present.
the room a simple church like a good mission room.
There was an appUcation for ' The Friends ' to be
received as members of the AUiance. Rather more
than half wore European dress ; some of the older
men were glad to take off their wooden shoes or clogs,
and sit with their feet up on the forms. Philadelphia
Friends have a mission at Tokio, worked by Joseph
Cosand and wife, Mr. and Mrs. Wright from Canada,
and Mary Ann Gundry from Leeds.
" I reached Dr. and Mrs. Whitney's in time for an early
dinner, and accompanied them to a garden party at
Mr. Iwasaki's. Mrs. Whitney is a daughter of our Friend
J. Bevan Braithwaite. Mr. Iwasaki is said to be the
richest man in Japan, next to the Mikado. The party
was given in honour oi Wistar and Mary Morris, who
are Friends, and have irequently kindly entertained, at
their beautiiul home in Philadelphia, many high class
Japanese students.
" Captain and Mrs. Pratt (Principals oi CarUsle Indian
School, Pennsylvania), who are traveUing with Mr.
and Mrs. Morris, were also there. The party was at
Mr. Iwisaki's country seat — ^lovely grounds, most
beautiiuUy kept, with a smaU lake, bridges, rocks.
etc., fantastically trained trees, Uke we see on Japanese
screens, etc. It was a smaU party, about thirty in aU.
The Japanese ladies were very prettily dressed in crape
dresses of deUcate tints, the shades of colour, lavender,
dove colours, slates and sage greens, their sashes or obis,
richly embroidered with gold, or some bright colour ;

FIRST VISIT TO JAPAN. 73
they all wore the white sock or tabi, which has a
division ior the great toe, and fits round the ankle,
not so high up as our boots ; they had also black
lacquered clogs, and their jet black hair was beauti
iuUy done, with ornamental gold pins or flowers in it.
The unmarried ladies wore brighter coloured dresses,
and their hair is looped behind in the shape oi a
bow, and tied with scarlet, or some bright colour.
The married ladies dress their hair more in the
shape of a chignon, but no ladies wear hat or
bonnet. Most of the gentlemen wore European dress,
and spoke EngUsh.
"After being introduced to the hostess with low bows,
we were escorted round the grounds, and came to a
simple restaurant put up in imitation of country places,
where everything was served in a style to correspond :
there were large bowls of hard-boiled eggs, yams (a
kind of sweet potato), and cakes ; tea was handed
without milk or sugar — there were simple seats Uke
packing cases, and the country kettle boiUng over a
charcoal fire.
" Then we walked on through plantations of pines and
other trees, to a pond where there was a decoy for wild
ducks, and everything fitted up ior the sport oi catching
them. "Soon we came to a tea-house oi a higher style, built
oi bamboo, where again tea was handed in dainty china
cups, and beautiiiU sweetmeats in iancy iorms and
bright colours ; here we had wicker stools for seats.
After this we returned to the house ; the sHding doors
were open, and we could see into the rooms, where the

74 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
only furniture was the beautiful tatami or mats. I
felt sorry we did not go inside.
" Then chairs were brought, and we sat under the
trees, while some half dozen men acted for our enter
tainment. One seemed to be the clown, and caused
many hearty laughs to those who understood the
language. There was a great dragon's head with a
green cotton cloth (covered with strange figures),
attached to it ; two men get under this, the one making
the two forelegs, and the other the hind legs, of the
hideous monster — ^it reminded me of the descriptions
we read of the fetes in the time of Queen EUzabeth.
There was also throwing oi balls, knives, etc. After
this, we were taken to a large tent where tables were
spread in English style, and we had an elegant repast —
cold tongue, chicken, salad, fish, ice-creams, cakes,
strawberries, pineapple, etc. I was rather sorry they
put the EngHsh and Americans at a separate table, ior
it would have been interesting to see these high-class
ladies eat with chop-sticks.
" From the garden party we went to the annual meeting
oi the Scripture Reading Union (the same as the
Children's Scripture Reading Union in England, which
has been adopted here, as more simple ior those who
know so Uttle oi the Bible).
" There were about 300 natives present, and it was
conducted by them. There are now about 13,000
members, though it was started only about six years
ago by Dr. Whitney's sister. It is the same Union I have
started amongst the coloured people in America. Mr.
and Mrs. Morris and I spoke a little through an inter-

FIRST VISIT TO JAPAN. 75
prefer, and then on« oi their ministers gave a beautiiul
and eloquent address, lasting about three quarters
of an hour.
"We were very tired on returning to Dr. Whitney's
about lO p.m.
"On Sunday I went to the Japanese Friends' Meeting,
about sixty present. Three women and a girl came
forward, and signed their names to a paper, saying
they took Christ as their Saviour, and intended to
serve Him, and Hve up to the requirements of the
Gospel in future.
"Mrs. Morris and I spoke through the interpreter;
several native men and women offered prayer ; six or
seven of the jinricksha men came in. We all rose, and
after singing ' Praise God,' etc., dispersed.
"After this we went over the new Girls' Boarding
School, built by Philadelphia Friends, of which Miss
Gundry is Principal. Then to Joseph Cosand's to
dinner. He has a smaU house built on the same lot as
the Meeting-house and School. The girls wear the
native dress, sleep on mats, and use the native food,
principally rice. Several of them are professing
Christians, and I feel sure the work here is being much
blessed. "I find the paper signed in raeeting is simply to make
a public profession of desiring to serve the Lord ; they
are not received into membership tiU they have had
heart experience of the love of Christ, and understand
something of our principles.
" In the evening we went to Dr. Whitney's hospital,
where about seventy of the poorer class were present.

76 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
principally children, to whora he showed two raagic-
lantern views, the Pharisee and the PubHcan and the
Httle Hebrew maid, making them the subject of a simple
Bible talk. The chUdren sat on the ground or on the
stairs Ustening very intelUgently, and certainly were
more orderly than that number and class of English
children would be ; they came from very poor homes ;
and it is to some of them rice is now being distributed
on account of the prevailing distress.
" THe other evening Takane Toramatu, the young man
who edits the Japanese monthly Scripture Reading
Union paper, was here ; he is studying law at the
University, and speaks EngUsh weU ; he said he was
about to change his name, as Toramatu means tiger-
pine, and he does not Hke it, but prefers Yukiwaka,
which means, happy-young. His face Ht up when I
observed if we were Christians we experienced that in
our hearts, and though we grew older as years sped by
our hearts would keep young and happy. Takane is
the famUy name.
"Dr. Whitney told rae of two young men, students,
who go out after dark with jinrickshas, taking with
them clothes usuaUy worn by the jinricksha-men, and
when they get into a part where they are not known,
they put them on, and set to work to earn money to
enable them to continue their studies.
"May 2yth, 5 p.m. — Just returned from a Bible Class
of Japanese ladies held by Mrs. Morris ; there were only
nine present, of whom the Countess Oyjima was the
only one in European dress. The subject was ' Life

FIRST VISIT TO JAPAN. 77
through Christ.' One of the ladies interpreted for Mrs.
Morris ; at the close, tea and cake were handed round,
and as Mrs. M. was leaving for America, she presented
each with a beautifuUy bound Japanese Bible. The
class was smaU, as Count and Countess Ocuma had a
garden party at the same time. The fashion of bowing
almost to the ground, when any lady came in — especiaUy
as one or two were late — ^was rather interrupting, as it
was etiquette for every one to rise when bowed to, and
she bowed to the whole class individuaUy.
"It came on wet on our return, and I noticed a good
many straw rain-coats worn ; the rain streaming off
the straws had a curious effect. Most of the jinricksha-
men had only short blue drawers, and they ran with
bare feet and legs. Many old soaked straw shoes
strewed the road.
" We sometimes see fine oxen drawing heavy loads oi
timber or rice, done up in bundles, the oxen with straw
shoes on. Japan has a very moist cUmate, with a rain-
iaU three times that of England, but at the same time
they have a good deal more sunshine.
" May 28th. — ^Went with Miss Whitney to visit a high
class Japanese school, in which she teaches. There
were about 130 young lady boarders. As this is outside
the part where foreigners are aUowed, unless they are
in Japanese employ, it is reckoned to belong to Mrs.
Watasd, a Christian Japanese lady, and the missionary
ladies are nominally under her. The pupils have
reUgious instruction every raorning, and then other
studies.

78 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
"I attended a class on physiology : the lesson given
in English as all the morning lessons are.
"I hear that most of the girls are Christians, and this
seems to me the hope for Japan, that so many of the
young men and women are under Christian instruction
through the schools. Next I went to a Kindergarten
where were about forty little ones from three to eight
years old, also under Mrs. Watas6. It was curious to
see these Uttle Japs in their native dress singing and
exercising : —
' This is the way the farmer sows his corn,' etc.
"The damp heat was very trying; many of the people
wear scant clothing, a loin cloth or short drawers, and
one man had nothing on but a little sort of pinafore !
But all are most courteous in manner
' ' Later on I went with Dr. and Mrs. Whitney to Hakone,
but as there are only eight ports in Japan open to
foreigners, Yokohama, Tokio, Niigata, Osaka, Shimo-
noseki, Kobe, Nagasaki, and Hakodate (in the island
of Yesso) it was necessary to have a passport ; mine
was quite an important-looking document with large
red seal : —
" ' Certificate.—
" 'Her Britannic Majesty's Legation, Tokio.
(Granted for six months to be returned when the time
expires.)
" 'From Tokio to the thirteen provinces around
Fujisan, hence by railway on the Tokaido Provinces
to Nagoya, Gifu, Kioto, and through the Gokaino
Provinces, and back to Yokohama by the sarae route.'

FIRST VISIT TO JAPAN. 79
"This has to be shown to the poUce whenever they
ask, also to the landlords of aU the hotels at which you
stay, and you cannot travel out of the treaty ports
without it.
"There is but Uttle architecture in the towns or cities,
except some of the temples, but everything connected
with the government or pubHc offices is kept beautifully
neat, not a leaf or stick or piece of paper about, and the
official residences are in plain European style. The
missionaries and others Hve in a part of the cities given
up for foreigners, and have good houses, and fine build
ings for schools or colleges.
" The streets are narrow, and kept beautifully clean,
excepting on wet days, when they are strewn with cast-
off straw shoes.
"There is a good deal of poetry and symboUsm among
the Japanese. The pine, bamboo and plum blossom
are the triple emblem of happiness, and are used at
marriages. " The pine signifies constancy, it being green all the
year round ; the bamboo, uprightness, being an erect
reed ; the plum, love, as it is the first flower of spring,
and can endure the frost and snow of February and
March. "The crane and tortoise also play a part in the insignia
of matrimonial happiness. ' May you live like the crane
1,000 years, or like the tortoise, 10,000.'
"I must describe the mats in the Japanese houses, as
they are almost the only articles of furniture, and are
kept beautifully clean. The floors are raised about
eighteen inches from the ground. Before entering, you

8o SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
sit on the step thus made, and take off your shoes. The
mats, 'tatami,' are an inch and a half in thickness
and six feet long, by three broad ; the top is of fine
Japanese matting over rice straw ; the edges bound
with dark cloth or cotton material ; they are soft and
springy and the Japanese kneel on them in a sort of
sitting posture.
"The natives always sleep on the floor, Ipng on
' futons ' or soft cotton quilts.
"The rooms are divided by sliding partitions covered
with paper, and are planned for six mats, or eight, or
ten, according to the size you wish ; aU these sHding
screens, too, are made of the same width and height.
" I am sorry to be in Japan too late for the plum and
cherry ' Beholdings,' but the irises are just coming
into bloom. Though the Japanese are so fond of flowers,
and go out into the country and special places for these
' Beholdings,' they do not cultivate flowers in their
gardens, as we do.
" Most of the wheat and barley is now cut, and people
are busy transplanting rice. The country from Tokio
to Yokohama, eighteen miles, is flat, the bay of Yedo
in view nearly all the way, and it is cultivated in patches
like our aUotment gardens, the rice patches being
partially under water, and men, women and children
working away busily. Dark blue cotton is the almost
universal costume, except for little children, who wear
clothing of many colours.
" We came to this lovely mountain viUage, Hakone, on
Friday, June 6th, taking the train from Tokio forty-three
miles to Kodzu, thence by tram-car for an hour ; after

FIRST VISIT TO JAPAN. 8i
this two of our party were carried in ' kagas,' a kind of
basket slung on a pole, borne by two men ; while one
lady had a chair on two poles, carried by four men.
" Dr. Whitney and Mr. Iwase, the traveUing secretary
of the Scripture Reading Union, walked the seven
miles up to this picturesque lake. The viUage of
Hakone is 4,000 ft. above the sea. We are at a Japanese
hotel, but find they can provide us with EngHsh food.
" When we came upstairs, we appeared to have the
whole top of the house, with no furniture but matting
on the floor ; there was a balcony overlooking the lake.
When Dr. W. asked which room I would have, I felt
quite puzzled. He soon showed me the various sliding
doors covered with paper, which divided it into five or
six rooms. We were glad to find that they had bedsteads
for foreigners (so that we had not to sleep on mats on
the floor), and these we have had made up ; but one has
a very insecure feeUng, as the sUding shutters have no
fastenings and can easily be pushed aside. We have a
cupboard with washing utensils, and can use the balcony,
which has chairs and a table, as our sitting room.
" There are only three Christians in Hakone.
" Monday, June gth. — At sunrise a little before 4 a.m.
the celebrated mountain Fuji stood out above the near
mountains, its extinct crater snow crested ; it was a
lovely sight, and as Dr. W. had to breakfast at 4.30 so
as to accompUsh his seven miles walk in time for the
early train to Tokio, I got up and breakfasted with him,
and then Mr. Iwas6 and I walked a Uttle way with hira.
The views were lovely, and we stopped to take two

82 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
photos ; after Dr. W. left us, we went on, getting different
views of the lake and this grand raountain. About 5.30
we turned into a tea-house for the view, and a pretty
Japanese girl brought us Httle cups of tea. Then we
visited two shrines or temples ; one has quite an ancient
stone Tori ; the shrines are a good deal neglected, and
one feels that in many places both Buddhism and
Shintoism are dead reUgions.
"In walking through the village here, we have been
able to study the interiors of the houses, as the sHding
doors are mostly drawn back. Some of the tea-houses
have raost charraing Httle gardens at the back, with
smaU fancy shaped evergreens, or the bright scarlet
leaved maple — ^miniature rockeries — flakes about the
size of a large pan, and all in exquisite order, with irises
and azaleas in bloom.
"We stopped at one house where bamboos were being
prepared for paint-brushes, pens, pipes, umbreUa handles,
etc. ; at another, where two Uttle bo}^ were turning
wood for the Japanese lacquer ware. I asked if they
were the sons of the owner of the house. Iwase said :
' No, they are his disciples.' The man then took us
to another place where the wood was lacquered ; we
passed a small erection, from which smoke was issuing
— where the resin was being prepared — ^then on to the
poUsher ; his house was made of smaU bamboo canes,
thatched with straw (as all the houses in this viUage
were) and he showed us the process.
"We met pack horses from the mountains, laden with
'shingles' (cut from the trees), for roofing; two
kagas with Japanese traveUers, the postman, with blue

FIRST VISIT TO JAPAN. 83
cotton shirt, straw hat (about three feet across), and a
stick over his shoulder, to which a packet of letters
was attached ; women with black teeth, and no eye
brows, with babies on their backs — all so gentle and
poUte, and so pleased to receive our illustrated
leaflets. " This viUage reminded me of the thatched cottages of
some Irish villages, only it was much tidier.
"In the afternoon Mrs. W., Mr. Iwas6 and I visited
several temples or shrines ; at one, such a group of
children followed us that Mr. Iwas6 gave them a short
gospel address as we stood on the steps of the heathen
temple. These shrines remind me of those one sees
in Roman Catholic countries ; many are greatly neg
lected, and falling into decay, others have flowers and
trees around, with gravestones and inscriptions ; on
some there were little cups for offering rice or food
to the god.
" The thing that strikes me most with regard to their
reUgion is that they have no hope or thought of a future
life, and I fancy there is very little consciousness of sin
or thirst after righteousness.
" In the evening we went to one of the Christian houses
for a meeting, but no one else came. We had some
little talk on prayer, and as we came away, Mr. Iwas6,
who speaks very Httle EngHsh, said : ' People have no
eyes to see Jesus, no ears to hear of His love ; I think
they would have eyes to see a magic lantern.' He is
anxious to have one here for the people. He comes to
our family worship, and I help him to read a chapter in
English afterwards, as he is very anxious to learn.

84 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
"June loth. — ^I am writing this at Hakone ; it is a
pouring wet day ; we have a ' hibachi,' a square
wooden box Hned with metal, containing pieces of
hot charcoal, by our side, two beds on the floor being
nearly the only furniture ; the room, eight mats, en
closed in sliding shutters ; a recess with a Kakemono,
or hanging picture, and a table with a looking-glass—
this last for the foreigners.
" The other day the girl brought up a large, bright red,
lacquered tray on feet about six inches in height, on which
were two storks, so wonderfully natural, made out of
long white radishes, with bamboo sticks for legs and
beaks, black tails and breasts, red on the head, with
pieces of evergreen and moss for the ground ; one was
looking down and the other with spread wings, ready
for flight ; it is quite an artistic production, and Mrs.
Whitney is making a painting of it. This radish is
called diakon, and grows from eighteen inches to three
feet in length.
"An artist, R. Savage Landor, has his room next to
ours ; he is grandson of the poet, and makes lovely
sketches in black and white with ink and water, besides
oil paintings. He comes in occasionally to show us his
pictures. " The Hakone Lake is about seven miles long, and from
half a mile to two-and-a-half broad. The Mikado has a
summer palace here built in a plain English style, but
has never visited it ; some of the Princes come occa
sionally. "We are here rather early in the season, and the only
foreigners ; we are staying a week on our way to Kioto.

FIRST VISIT TO JAPAN. 85
The hiUs round are covered with bamboo reed of a smaU
kind ; there is no grass for cattle, so no sheep, — ^indeed
one sees very few animals in Japan. We found on
our way up here the deutsia in fuU bloom, also the
weigeUa rosea, and red azaleas.
"The lake and mountains are pretty, but do not equal
our EngUsh lakes in beauty, except when Fuji is visible.
There is a pretty little garden below our hotel balcony
with miniature rockeries and shrubs, most beautifuUy
kept, a stone lantern such as you see near temples, and
two smaU summer houses roofed with bamboo, pink
paHngs tipped with black, and a gate opening on to steps
to the water for boating or bathing.
"After leaving Hakone, Mrs. Whitney and I spent
several weeks at Kioto, staying with Mrs. Dr. Buckley,
who has charge of the hospital belonging to the Doshisha,
a most interesting CoUege connected with the American
CongregationaUsts, with over 800 students. This
College chiefly owes its establishment to Mr. Neesima,
a remarkable Japanese who has recently died (1890),
aged forty-six. His father, in the days of old Japan, was
a Samurai retainer of one of the princes. The son
heard about other countries and had an irresistible desire
to go abroad, though doing so without permission irom
his father and the Mikado was punishable with death ;
however he managed in 1864 to escape to Shanghai,
and from there worked his way to America ; he was so
pleasant and helpful on board the vessel that he got the
name of Joseph. The captain asked him what he in
tended to do when he landed ; he replied that he wished
to get an education and learn about the God who made

86 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
the heaven and earth, for he had been taught that Japan
was made by the Sea God who dipped his trident into
the ocean, and the drops from it formed the many
Japanese islands. Neesima gained his first ideas of
prayer from reading ' Robinson Crusoe,' the part
where he found a Bible in his old sea-chest, and prayed
to the Lord in his trouble. This opened his mind to the
thought that he, too, could pray to God.
" The captain of the ship was so interested in Joseph
that he spoke to Mr. Hardy, who was part owner oi it,
about him. Mr. and Mrs. Hardy were so pleased with
him, that they took him into their house. He became
a true Christian ; in his journal, aiter referring to John
iii. i6, he writes : ' This verse is the sim among aU the
stars which shine upon the page of His Holy Word.'
After he was able to speak English, the Hardys sent him
to Andover College ; from this time he took the name of
Joseph Hardy Neesima. Later on he entered the
theological seminary, his burning desire being to make
known Gospel truths to his countrymen.
" In 1872, an important embassy representing the Im
perial government and the Mikado, left Japan to visit
America and Europe ; it was composed of four cabinet
ministers and commissioners of various departments
under the conduct of the distinguished Iwakura Tomomi.
The embassy needed an interpreter and secretary ;
Neesima was summoned to Washington to assist Mr.
Tanaka, the Commissioner of Education, to whom he
proved so valuable that he insisted on his accompanying
the embassy to Europe. Beiore engaging to do this,
he showed his colours as a Christian, and made known

FIRST VISIT TO JAPAN. 87
to them his resolve to rest on the Sabbath, and to have
ireedom to speak ior Christ. His connection with the
embassy was most valuable, and through it he was
pardoned ior leaving his country and thus enabled to
return to it in 1875.
"Through his labours, and by means provided by his
iriends in America, he was able to start a school at
Kioto, now the Doshisha CoUege, which has ior many
years exerted a wide influence ior good in Japan.
' ' I ieel it an honour to have seen so much oi this remark
able work, and was present when the first twelve nurses
trained under Mrs. Dr. Buckley received their diplomas,
attired in their neat nurses' costumes.
" We became acquainted with the various missionaries,
and I was asked to take part in the young Japanese
ladies' Bible Classes. We were in a large room without
any furniture, the students seated on the Japanese
tatami (mats), when their teacher said, ' 1 shall introduce
you, and when I bow, you should bow.' I too seated
myself on the mats, and when I heard her say, ' 0 AUen
San ' (the honourable Mrs. AUen), I bowed my iorehead
to the floor beiore speaking."
Beiore leaving Japan I stayed with some missionaries
at Nikko, where there are many temples and a shrine
to lyeyasu, a famous general. The Japanese have a
proverb, " You cannot say Kekko unless you have been
to Nikko (Kekko meaning beautiful)."
I also stayed at another mountain resort ; George
Braithwaite accompanied me on my return journey ;
we had three jinrickshas, one for my luggage ; he told
me the men spoke of rae as " the honourable old lady

88 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
of the back of the house," that this was quite polite as
they respect the aged, and that the best rooms are in
the back of the house looking on to the pretty little
gardens. The weather became very hot and damp, but it was
with regret that, after spending thirteen weeks in this
interesting country, I returned in the summer of 1890
to America to continue work amongst the coloured
people.

CHAPTER IX.
SECOND VISIT TO JAPAN.
" March yth, 1892.
" We are fairly on our way to San Francisco, en route for
Japan. Mrs. Camp, Miss Haydock and I left St. Louis
on Thursday night ; it was wet going through Kansas.
At Wichita things did not look promising ; we were told
that at the time of the boom the population was 40,000,
now 23,000 only ! numbers oi large houses were empty.
" In Colorado we came in ior the snow, and were dis
appointed in not being able more iuUy to enjoy the
beautiful scenery.
" Saturday night we stayed off (for Sunday) at Las
Vegas in New Mexico — ^pretty scenery, and a good hotel,
' Montezuma ' ; not quite so much snow.
" Last night we expected to reach Santa F6 about nine
in the evening, but on account of the snow, we did not
arrive till four this mormng, went to bed, rested, and have
since done a very fuU day's work. Santa Fe means Holy
Faith, and is the oldest city in America ; was a settlement
of the Pueblo Indians before the Spanish Conquest ;
now it is the capital of Mid-Mexico.
"There are many adobe houses ; these, with some new
U.S. buildings make it a city of strong contrasts. The
people are principally Mexicans, which means, I fancy,

90 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
of mixed Indian and Spanish blood; they are dark,
handsome, and brigand-Uke looking people, and, as far
as they have any reUgion, are Roman CathoUc. We
visited the old church, and New Cathedral (R.C.),
also the Indian school with forty-two Pueblo children ;
the Principals, Elmore Chase and wife, are Friends.
The school was founded in memory of Helen Hunt
Jackson ('H. H.'), the lady who wrote so much on
behalf of the wrongs of the Indians, ' A Century of Dis
honour,' ' Ramona,' etc., and it is caUed the Ramona
Indian School.
I visited her grave in the autumn of 1890, and could
not help thinking of ' The Burial of Moses ' —
' On Nebo's lopy mountain, on this side Jordan's wave,
 there lies a lonely grave.'
for it is in a canyon on the mountain side, marked only
by a heap of stones — ^no name, no inscription, but with
'The tall rock pines, like tossing plumes
Around her bier to wave,' etc.
" In the afternoon we had a carriage and took a lovely
drive of nine miles between the mountains, some capped
with snow, to the Indian adobe viUage of Tesuque Pueblo.
This was most interesting, — ^the houses two-stories high,
with ladders to the upper part, which formed separate
dwelUngs. The rooms were beautifuUy clean. We
watched the women grind com, with a flat stone on a
stationary nether stone. Mrs. Camp has a Kodak,
and took some photographs ; while Atha Haydock
sat in one of the houses and painted the interior — ^the

SECOND VISIT TO JAPAN. 91
little papoose was swinging in a cradle, suspended from
one of the many cross beams of the ceiHng ; it was very
interesting to study the groups of mothers and children.
The village has a population of 250 ; the priest, we hear,
comes out once a month, and there is a little Roman
CathoHc church. I think the Roman CathoUcs have
done more in mission work among the Indians in Mexico
and CaUfomia than any other people.
" We travel in much more style than I am used to —
PuUman cars all the way — stay at the various dining
stages for our meals, and so on ; it is a new experience
for me to have no trouble about money, etc.
" Mrs. Camp, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Wm. Haydock,
of St. Louis, is twenty-six, but looks younger ; she
is very sweet and gentle, while her cousin, Atha Haydock,
of Cincinnati, is a bright girl of nineteen, up to anything ;
she is an artist, studied three years in Paris, and had a
picture in the Salon there, which is considered quite
an honour ; she was in London last May, and, with her
uncle and aunt, Mr. and Mrs. Haydock, of St. Louis,
dined with us at Charles' Square during the Yearly
Meeting. " March Sth, noon.— We are now passing through the
Indian Reservation, belonging to the Navajo tribe.
There are large flocks of sheep with Indian boys in charge.
The conductor says these Indians make most beautiful
blankets from the wool, and colour them with native
dyes which are brilHant and never fade.
" The country is dreary in the extreme with sage brush
growing in bunches that look dry and dead, so that one

92 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
wonders what they live on this time of year. We see
here and there bodies of the poor dead cattle lying near
the railroad track.
" About 7.30 this morning we crossed the Colorado
river, and entered the State of CaUfomia ; there was
quite an encampment of Indians in their red blankets
and cotton wrappers ; a number were standing round a
large fire, and the conductor told us they were burning
the body of an Indian who had died, and that cremation
is common amongst them. This place is caUed " the
Needles " from the pointed shape of the rocks which
rise from the sandy plains.
"Pacific Ocean, April ist, 1892. (In bed). — We
erabarked on City of Pekin at San Francisco (where
we spent four very enjoyable days), my dear sister
Bessie Nolt and her husband seeing us off.
" There were three raagnificent baskets of hothouse
flowers in the saloon, labelled Mrs. Camp, Miss Haydock
and Mrs. AUen, our kind St. Loms friends having tele
graphed to their agent at San Francisco to have them
ready. Miss Haydock had also an immense bunch of
pink roses from her mother.
" We aU enjoyed the various promontories and islands
as we steamed out of the Golden Gate into the wide
Pacific (it is 4,800 miles from San Francisco to Yoko
hama). We are sixteen saloon passengers and 265
steerage, mostly Chinese ; we carry principally flour.
The first two days my friends were quite seasick, and I
was the good sailor; but when we had been a week at
sea, I was seized with violent pain in my lirabs, and have

SECOND VISIT TO JAPAN. 93
been almost helpless ever since ; the doctor pronounces
it inflammatory rheumatism. I have had good medical
care, and the stewardess has slept in my room at night ;
I am now much better, though weak, but I was not
able to have my bed made for eight days.
"The weather has been very rough though I have had
a quiet mind and been happy) ; one twenty-four hours'
run was only eighty-seven miles, and another, under
a hundred ; there has been a heavy sea, and head winds
all the way. We carry the mails, and the company lose
ten dollars per hour if they are over fifteen days out.
We do not expect to land tiU Sunday morning, April
3rd. I have been glad of the delay, feeling it gives me
time to get up my strength, and so thankful to be ill
here and not at the hotel, as I have the doctor at hand,
and the stewardess as nurse. All the waiters, etc.. are
Chinese. The man who does my room has been deeply
concerned about me : ' You sick, you have doctor, he
give you medicine ; I so sorry you sick, you too old to
go on ship.' etc., etc. He, like the rest, has a long,
black pigtail, which reaches to his feet, but which he
twists up when sweeping the room, etc.
"The first day I concluded to have the doctor, I was
told he Would come as soon as he could, but was just
embalming a Chinaman ; you know they are always so
anxious to be buried in their own country, and when ill
wiU embark at San Francisco with the contract that they
are to be taken to China, dead or aUve. This is the only
one who has died on this voyage, and after embalming,
his body was placed in one of the boats slung on the
deck.

94 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
" GrandHotel.Yokohama.Wednesday, April 6th, 1892.
— We landed here on Sunday, 3rd, at three o'clock, after
a voyage of twenty days from San Francisco (though
only nineteen sunrises and sunsets, as we lost a day on
the voyage having only six in our second week). We had
a very rough time, indeed many were afraid the ship
would not be able to stand the strain. I was iU, and
strapped in bed, most of the time,and did not feel the
storm so much as some. The doctor had a faU, and
broke one of his ribs, and six or seven of the sailors and
engineers were a good deal hurt, so you may imagine
we were reaUy glad to be on terra firma again.
"This is a large and very comfortable hotel, situated
on the lovely bay, and there is a good road running for
a couple of miles by the sea. Since Sunday the weather
has been lovely, and it is very enjoyable to me to witness
the enthusiasm of my young friends ; they had jinrick
shas (the men who draw them run at a brisk pace
between the shafts); they went to the post ofl&ce to
telegraph to their friends (three words cost seven doUars);
and came back deUghted with the novelty. ' Mrs.
AUen, why did you not teU us more about it ? It is so
strange ; what we have seen the hour and a half we have
been out, is well worth the journey — it is all so funny,
so comical, we don't know what to do.'
" Monday morning we had great fun taking Kodak
pictures of people passing, street groups, etc., and then
we went up a high hill to a Buddhist temple, from which
we had a lovely view of the bay with Japanese boats,
caUed sampans, and large ships of various nations, at
anchor, also of the town of Yokohama (population

SECOND VISIT TO JAPAN. 95
101,000) between us and the sea ; while, as we gazed
inland, we had a splendid view of the Japanese
mountain, Fuji-yama, with its lovely cone of snow ; it
is 13,000 ft. high, and sixty miles off.
" We sat down in one of the tea-houses, drinking the
light yellow tea, without milk or sugar, in Httle cups
without handles, and sweets made in pretty shapes,
(some like mushrooms), and of very bright colours, were
handed to us. We also had some very small oranges
(everything is small in Japan), and returned about one
o'clock to our hotel to lunch.
" On Monday morning Dr. Whitney called (I had
telegraphed, on arriving, to him) ; he lives at Tokio,
the capital, about eighteen miles irom Yokohama 5
I stayed some weeks with him and his wiie, when in
Japan in 1890. He teUs me that Isaac Sharp and Dr.
Dixon, of London, are here, and that he saw them off
by rail this morning to visit the earthquake district
near Nagoya, where they have sent doctors, and opened
a hospital for the wounded people. This earthquake
took place last October, and it is said that 9,000 people
lost their lives.
" We lodgedat Nagoya in 1890, sleeping on the Japanese
mats on the floor, in the principal hotel of the city, and
yet having electric Hght in the rooms. Nagoya is the
fourth city for population in Japan, about 300 miles
from here ; much of the railroad track was torn up by
the earthquake, but it is expected the road will shortly
be re-opened.
"George Braithwaite (son of Bevan Braithwaite), who
is agent for the British and Foreign Bible Society, has

96 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
gone with Isaac Sharp and Dr. Dixon, they are expected
back in a few days ; it will be very pleasant to meet
them. " On Monday evening we were introduced to Sir Edwin
Arnold, who was stajdng at the hotel, and had nearly
an hour's talk with him ; he returned to Japan recently.
I told him how much we had enjoyed his books,
especiaUy ' The Light of the World ' ; his daughter has
not returned with him, having just married, and he is
not now Hving at the house near Tokio, as before. There
is a picture of him and his daughter there, in ' Seas and
Land.' He told the young ladies they must have a
guide who would travel with them, carry their things,
speak the language, etc., and recommended Mano,
who had been with him a year ; so next morning they
telegraphed to Tokio for him, and he is now engaged.
Of course we shall see a good deal more, and it wiU
reUeve me in many ways.
" Yesterday we went to some of the Japanese shops
where the beautiful silk crapes and embroideries are sold ;
it was very interesting to see the bright, inteUigent
Uttle shopkeepers, and the goods were most tempting.
Mrs. Camp and Miss Haydock bought a good many
costumes, etc., indeed spent more than £50 (EngUsh) at
one store. Some of the designs for dresses were most
exquisite, and the colours so deUcate.
" A man passed me in the street with a large basket of
cut camelUas ; I chose seven, for which he asked me
four sen (less than 2d.), so I have now a lovely nosegay
in my room.
"The weather here is bright, fresh and rather cool out

SECOND VISIT TO JAPAN. 97
of the sun, so I have a fire in my room for my rheumatism,
and we make this our sitting room, when the ladies are
in ; they are out now with the guide, Mrs. C. taking her
Kodak for photos, and Miss H. her box and oU paints
for views.
" We are well suppUed with books as my friends have
bought £4 worth since we landed, principally on Japan.
" Yokohama, April loth. — Yesterday we had a very
acceptable visit from Isaac Sharp and Dr. Dixon, of
London ; they had just returned from the earthquake
district, and said that 10,000 Uves were lost, and
many thousands injured, losing their aU ; stiU it is
wonderful to see how the people have set to work
rebuilding their cities, and with the extreme poverty
there is no squalor, but a cheerful hopefulness.
" Isaac Sharp gave me an encouraging account of the
Friends' Missionary work in India, where he stayed on
his way to Japan.
"Mrs. Camp and Miss Haydock are gone to Tokio
to-day; they find the guide recommended by Sir
Edwin Arnold very useful, and I greatly enjoy hearing
of what they have seen and done ; they are delighted,
as almost everyone is, with Japan and the Japanese,
" You would be amused with themany Httle Japanese
waiters here ; they are so small, I do not think they
would average in weight seven stone each, but they are
most quiet, polite and attentive.
" The Kodak pictures Mrs. Camp took at San Francisco,
on the boat, and here, have turned out well ; the Japanese
artists are very good at developing them.

98 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
"Imperial Hotel, Tokio, April 2/^th, 1892. — ^We lef t
Yokohama on Thursday, 21st for Tokio, which since
1865 has been the capital of Japan.
" The Mikado and Court formerly resided in Kioto,
whilst the Shogun, or miUtary ruler, made his head
quarters here, which was formerly caUed Yeddo, but since
the aboUtion of the Shogunate and restoration of the
Mikado to the real govemment of the country, the Court
has moved to Tokio.
"Yeddo, now Tokio. became the raiUtary capital of
Japan in 1590. which, I suppose, accounts for the remark
able way in which it is planned. In the middle of the
city there is a castle surroimded by three moats ; the
inner side of each of these has a high stone waU ; trees
are planted at the top oi a grassy slope down to the water
on the other side ; the Mikado's palace is within the
third moat. Between these moats are of&cial residences,
exercise grounds for the miUtary barracks, and acres and
acres of^ound planted with trees, or laid out in beautiful
drives, whUe the city proper Ues around this. In olden
times, I suppose this space was a large miUtary camp
and fortifications ; now it is utiHsed and has many
modem residences in the foreign style (the term foreign
is used in contra-distinction to native and means
European or American) ; here, too, one sees the electric
light, telegraph and telephone, and within the moat
enclosure is this handsome hotel, which has been buUt
since I was here in 1890.
"Tokio is a city of over one miUion inhabitants; most
of the streets have smaU wooden houses two stories high,
which are not imUke the booths we used to see at country

SECOND VISIT TO JAPAN. 99
fairs ; a few of the streets are wider, with SmaU tram-cars
and omnibuses, but most are very narrow (excepting
within the moat, where there are good carriage roads),
and the jinricksha is the universal carriage.
" On Sunday, April loth, there was a disastrous fire
here, when 4,000 houses were burnt down ; on the
22nd, when we visited the scene, the ground was cleared,
the people busily at work at rebuilding their houses,
and some already Uving in the new houses ; it was
curious to see all dotted about in this large space the
fire-proof warehouses caUed ' go-downs,' which were
really fireproof. Yesterday we visited the school for
high-class girls established by the Empress for the
daughters of peers. Dr. Whitney's sister is the only
EngHsh teacher ; there are four hundred students,
ages varying from four to twenty ; we noticed most of
them wore foreign shoes and stockings, and their dresses
were an adaptation of foreign style, and either violet or
crimson ; they wore their hair Japanese, their manners
are most poUte, and many are decidedly pretty.
" The school buUdings are handsome red brick, and are
fitted with desks and modern appHances.
" Two of the Mikado's little children attend school ;
they are own sisters of the Crown Prince, aged four and
five, and come daily with three attendants each, who go
to the various classes with them.
"At twelve o'clock a man goes through the building
clapping two pieces of wood together as notice that it
is lunch time (they do not have a beU as that would be
Hke calHng servants) — the students bring their own
lunch, go into a large dining-room fitted with tables

100 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
and forms, and unpack the gaily-coloured handkerchiefs
in which their lunch is tied up. lay out their refreshments
and chopsticks, and Httle teapots with ' honourable tea '
are brought in. It is a pretty sight — aU these gaily-
dressed girls with their black hair and bright hair
ornaments. "This afternoon the Annual Garden Party was held by
invitation of the Emperor and Empress in the grounds
of their seaside palace for the ' Cherry Blossom Behold
ing.' Mrs. Camp and Miss Haydock went with Dr.
and Mrs. Whitney (I was not able to go). There were
about 400 representatives of the various foreign Lega
tions and the leading aristocracy of Japan. My friends
had very good views of the Mikado and Empress, — he
walked first with his suite, and she followed with her
Court ladies ; she was very prettily dressed in a Hght
grey sUk with embossed chrysanthemums ; aU were
dressed in foreign style, so that it was not so picturesque
an assembly as if the Japanese had been in their native
dress. "Their nice tents in which refreshments, ice-creams,
etc., were served, were beautifully decorated with
flowers. The party was entirely in the garden, and lasted
about two hours.
" As my friends had a carriage and pair to go (a few
horses and carriages can be hired here, and in Yokohama,
but there are very few horses in Japan except a miserable
animal, the pack-horse), we took a drive by the English
Legation, and then to the very handsome new Russian
Cathedral of the Greek Church, only completed last year ;
service was being held and we went in ; the music and

SECOND VISIT TO JAPAN. loi
chanting was beautiful, — the priests in gorgeous Japanese
vestments — the altar blazing with gold and pictures —
incense burning, etc. I was grieved to see what was
outwardly so like the ritual of Buddhism exhibited before
the people under the name of Christianity.
" I forgot to mention that on Friday morning we had
a lovely drive to see the cherry blossom avenue of trees
more than a mile long, beside the river Samudigawa ;
some of these trees are more than a hundred years old,
and are immense, much larger than our largest apple
or cherry trees, and are grown only for the flowers ;
some are a mass of single flowers nearly white, others a
bright pink, almost the colour of almond blossom, others
double pink about the size of Banksia roses. The trees
were covered with flowers, with but few leaves, while
under the trees were staUs with children's toys, paper
masks, kites, sweetmeats, cakes, etc. Then the pretty
little tea-houses, and the people swarming out with their
children to enjoy the lovely sight and partake of ' the
honourable tea.'
" Sunday morning we went to ' The Friends' Meeting.'
They have three pretty good buUdings very nicely
situated on a hiU overlooking Tokio Bay — the meeting
house, the school building (which has rooms for M. A,
Gundry) and the missionary home. The grounds were
very prettily planted by the late Wistar Morris when
over in 1890, with the red-leaved maple, wistaria, and
the double blossom cherry, which was a mass of
bloom. " The Cosands are in America just nowfor rest.so that
M. A. Gundry has a great deal upon her.

102 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
" Dr. Whitney and his wife attend the meeting, and are
a great help ; the rest are of course Japanese.
"In the af temoon Dr. W. went with me to tlie Presby
terian mission ; it was a meeting of young girls belonging
to their school, fifty present ; others were away teaching
Sunday School in various parts of the city. The room
had sHding paper windows, and the girls sat on the
mats a la Japanese ; they sung hymns in EngHsh, and
repeated texts on ' The Love of Christ,' some in EngHsh,
and some in Japanese.
" I spoke without an interpreter, as most would under
stand. A good many of them belong to ' the King's
Daughters ' and about 400 in connection with various
missions are members. Miss Leite and Miss Gardner,
whom I met when in Japan before, are two of the
principals of the raission. which is a very large and
encouraging one.
"Monday, April 25*/}.— Visited the 'Arts Exhibition'
and Shiba Park and temples, also the Graves of the
Forty-seven Ronins ; these men, in 1703, avenged the
death of their Dairaio according to the sense of honour
of those days, and for this were condemned to commit
hara-kiri, an aristocratic suicide, and are buried in the
same temple grounds as the Daimio ; their memory is
greatly reverenced even at the present time by the
Japanese (See ' Mitford's Tales of Old Japan').
" The street sights of Tokio are most interesting ;
cooHes with their navy blue blouses with curious white
marks on the back, carrying baskets balanced on a pole
on their shoulders, sometimes lovely flower stands of

SECOND VISIT TO JAPAN. 103
sweets or toys for children, bamboo baskets with earth
or stones — almost everything is carried in this way ;
then one sees a few carts drawn by horses or oxen (the
oxen, the only large things in Japan), with straw shoes ;
men pulUng small water-carts, which are like tea chests
on two wheels ; the children in their gay coloured dresses ;
students in their long dressing-gown-looking dresses
walking in high pattens ; the shops aU open (something
like our fruit and fish shops in England) ; the people
busily at work carpentering, making fans, and paper
umbrellas, etc. ; mothers seeing to their children, or
at needlework ; children playing in the streets with
babies, or their brothers and sisters on their backs nearly
as big as themselves.
"Shanghai, China, May loth, 1892. Now I am among
the 'Celestials' in this far away land, I must send
you a few Unes. We left Yokohama last Wednesday,
the 4th, to go through the Inland Sea (the most
beautiful land and water scenery in the world), a
distance of over 700 miles. We arrived at Nangasaki
Saturday night ; it is a lovely place, the bay surrounded
by high hiUs clothed with greenery to their summits,
the water a beautiiul blue, — hundreds of Japanese junks
and sampans, — a large Russian man of war, two French
ditto, also EngHsh, and steamers from all nations.
" We landed about 9 a.m. Sunday morning ; my friends
went to see the town, etc. I called on Mr. and Mrs.
Fulkerson, missionaries with whom Mrs. Whitney and
I stayed in 1890 ; then to the native church, and on
board again at 4 p.m.

104 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
"As our ship went direct to Shanghai 475 miles, taking
only forty-four hours, we thought it a pity to be so near,
and not set foot on China.
" Shanghai is eighty miles up the Yang-tse-kiang river,
which is, I believe, the second largest river in the world ;
at the entrance it is forty miles broad, and yellow with
mud miles out to sea, so much is brought down by its
waters. As we steamed up it we could see the foUage
on its banks of a light yeUowish green, the country flat,
very different from Japan. About eight miles from the
city, we passed a number of Chinese men of war, I
should think a hundred ships, very foreign-looking, and
quite a picture with their flags flying.
" A great many men with their jinrickshas were on the
quay, and there was quite a scramble araongst them as
to who should convey us to the hotel, but a taU black
policeman with a red turban (a sepoy from India),
dealt heavy blows freely with his staff to aU who crowded
round, and our courteous captain Swain helped us into
these Httle baby carriages, and we were trotted off at a
brisk rate to this hotel, the Astor House. There are
arched colonnades aU round it, and taU palms each side
of the entrance ; it reminds me of an ItaHan hotel.
"After tifl&n (as lunch is called here), Mrs. Camp, Miss
Haydock and I set off to see the town. There is a large
part given up to foreigners — ' The EngUsh Settlement,'
' The French Settlement,' and ' The American Settle
ment,' with many brick houses, consulates, etc., also
large silk stores and shops for curios. I was much
interested in the street sights, throngs of Chinese in their
long blue dresses of various shades — the common people

SECOND VISIT TO JAPAN. 105
in cotton, but the ' sweUs ' with fuU, embroidered,
coloured sUk trousers, tunics of various colours, and
black skuU caps with a Httle red button on the top, all
having long pig-tails which reach nearly to the ground.
"The men with our jinrickshas ran so fast, I was greatly
afraid of being spiUed. There were also some few
carriages with curious Uttle thick-set horses, many of
them white, and the poorer people were being conveyed
in wheelbarrows, one large wheel in the middle, and a
seat over it on each side, so that two people ride at once,
and the man pushes it as we do a wheelbarrow.
"As my friends always march off to the shops, I see a
great variety of silks, embroideries, ivory carvings.
etc. "We have not yet been into the native town, only in the
' Settlement,' though we have seen plenty of natives.
I was stmck with the absence of Chinese women in the
streets, there were a few ayahs or nurses, and foreign
chUdren ; some of the former I noticed walked in a very
tottering way from their poor little deformed feet.
"In the dining-room here we were stmck with the
difference in the waiters from the small, bright, poHte
little Japanese. These are fine, taU men, dressed in
what look Hke long, Hght blue, cotton nightshirts,
black shoes, with thick white soles turned up at the toes,
and pants tied tight round the ankles ; about half the
head shaved closely, the rest black hair braided, and
reaching nearly to the ground.
" We had rather feared to come to China on account of
the heat, but to-day it is very pleasant. We return by
the same ship, which leaves on Friday, at noon ; this

io6 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
gives us three days here, and we expect to return to
Nangasaki next Sunday, 15th, so that our Uttle visit
to China wiU only have taken a week.
"I am writing in the porch or arcade of the hotel, as I
returned after three hours of being trotted about the
streets. Just now I met two frail-looking Uttle EngUsh
children ; the elder one pointing to her sister, said,
' She was born in ManiUa, I was born in Brussels,'
and their nurse is from Singapore.
"May 1.2th. — ^We had a very interesting time yesterday
in the native city of Shanghai (population 250,000).
" Captain Swain caUed at our hotel, with his Chinese
steward, and went with us. We had jinrickshas through
the settlement, and till we reached the waUs of this
ancient city. Here the streets are so narrow and
crowded, that there is not room for even these smaU
carriages, and as it would have been difiicult for us to
walk among such a mass of people, and we were anxious
not to come into too close contact with them, we had
sedan chairs carried by long poles on the shoulders of
two cooHes. These narrow streets are Hned with shops,
the fronts open, so that we could see the people busily
at work. We saw very few women, only the poorer
class, and hardly any children ; indeed, if they too had
been out, there would have been no passing each other
in the streets. Only think of a quarter of a mUHon of
people crowded together in a city Hke this ! In parts
there were wide open ditches with dirty water; fortu
nately for us, it was a cool day, and we had camphor
on our handkerchiefs, or I should have feared typhoid.

SECOND VISIT TO JAPAN. 107
" We visited some of the temples, or joss houses, and
saw one very pretty rockery in the temple grounds.
" In the afternoon I called on the Rev. Bonnell and his
wife ; with the latter and children, I crossed the Pacific
in 1890. Mrs. Bonnell went with me to see some of the
missionary work. Miss Haygood, sister of Bishop
Haygood, who wrote ' My Brother in Black,' etc., is
principal of a high-class girls' boarding school here ;
they have a splendid new building ; she showed us
the reception room with handsome seats of honour for
the Chinese parents, when they caU, and also took us
over the bedrooms. I was surprised to see bedsteads
with curtains, and was told that the rich people have
very handsome embroidered silk curtains ; in this they
differ from the Japanese.
"The next morning we hadacarriageandpairandMrs.
BonneU went adrive with us in the country. There are
a good many horses and carriages in the foreign settle
ment of Shanghai. This is majiaged by the EngUsh,
Americans and French, who have made good roads which
extend some five or six miles into the country, but apart
from this, there are but few roads in this part of China.
" Miss Haslep, a lady doctor, connected with the
Episcopal Church Mission, told us that she goes out
twice a week to outlying towns of several thousands
of people, and that she goes on a wheelbarrow with her
assistant, a Chinese lady doctor ; the paths to these
towns are not wide enough for a jinricksha.
" We saw the large buUding belonging to Hudson
Taylor's Inland Mission. Most of the missionaries land
at Shanghai, and from here go up the country into the

io8 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
various provinces. The principal way of travelHng is
by canal, and there are thousands and thousands of
Chinese who have no home but the canal boats.
" They are a fine race of people, much taUer than the
Japanese, but have not their poUte and gentle manners ;
they have a greater eye for business and money-making,
and are said by those who know them, to have more
depth of character.
"I was much impressed with the great amount of
missionary work carried on in Shanghai.
" In the foreign city there is a very pretty pubUc garden
with park along the banks of the river ; the flowers are
beautiful; tuUps, etc., just over, but lovely roses in bloom,
and beds edged with the Ught lavender clematis, pelar
goniums, cinerarias, etc., planted out ; a band was
pla3dng, and the Uttle English and other foreign children
enjoying themselves."
Our three days stay in China passed quickly ; re
turning to Japan, we again had the enchanting scenery
of the Inland Sea, with its hundred isles, and after a
few more excursions, our eight weeks' visit to this
interesting people and country was over.
We left for Vancouver by the new Empress Line. My
friends went to their homes, and I to England. My
return ticket, which I bought at Yokohama, took me
across the Pacific to Vancouver, then 3,000 railes across
America to New York, with meals on the cars, and
lastly, across the Atlantic to London.

CHAPTER X.
SHORT VISIT TO INDIA.
In the autumn of 1893 I paid a visit to India with my
niece Nettie Robinson. We stayed about a week in
Bombay. It was interesting to see the good work being
carried on at the ofiice of The Bombay Guardian, and also
to visit Mr. and Mrs. Moody. Mr. Moody is a converted
Parsee ; he preached daily in the open air at Bombay ;
(H. S. Newman had given me an introduction to him),
and it was at his house I met Mrs. Lukey, a
young widow, who, with her husband, formerly
belonged to the Salvation Army. (She is now Mrs.
Swan and is working in the Friends' Mission in the
Central Provinces.)
From Bombay I went alone to Poona for a few days,
and visited Pundita Ramabai's home, Sharada Sadan,
for high caste Brahmin widows. It was a most inter
esting time ; we took our supper with those young people
who had broken caste, in a long dining room, in which
the only furniture consisted of a number of stools three
or four inches high placed against the walls. On
entering, one of the girls poured water on our hands from
an elegantly shaped brass pitcher ; then we sat down,
almost on the floor, each with a large brass plate in front
of her ; other graceful girls came round with vessels of
tog

no SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
rice, frora which we were helped ; sorae soy or sauce was
poured over this ; I noticed that aU used their fingers
in eating, in a dainty way that I was quite unable to
copy. After supper I was taken to see the kitchen where
the food for caste girls was cooked ; as I stepped
iorward to go in, I was held back lest ray shadow
should faU on it, and so all would have to be
thrown away!
Another room was hung with what looked like dress
lengths ; it was explained that these were sarees (eight
yards long), for wear next day. Brahmin girls must
have a clean dress daily.
At four next morning I was awakened by men's voices,
and found a number of buffaloes were being milked near
my window. On getting up Pundita Ramabai joined
me in the garden with a bowl of warm buffalo milk,
fruit and bananas, and then took me a drive through
the city.
Later on we visited Soonderbai Powar's Zenana
Training Home, and sorae educational work conducted
by Parsee ladies, (I think naraed Sorabji).
The next raorning early those girls who had broken
caste carae into Ramabai's room for a Bible talk. It
was cold at that early hour ; they literally sat
at the Pundita's feet, some with red blankets wrapped
round thera. That afternoon Raraabai's only daughter,
about seven years of age, asked me to her dolls' party in
the garden. When I raet her at the large Bethshan Hall,
Drayton Park, London, in 1909, it was interesting to
hear her speak and teU of the wondorful work being

SHORT VISIT TO INDIA. iii
done at the Mukti Home, Khedgaon, by her mother,
where there are 900 or 1,000 famine widows, and
of the reUgious revival amongst them, which began
in 1905.
After this visit my niece went with rae to the Friends'
Mission in the Central Provinces, where we were most
kindly entertained by our Missionaries, who are doing
such a beautiful work there.
We were speciaUy interested in the girls' and boys'
orphanages (nearly 800 children in aU), gathered during
the famines.
When we were about to leave Hoshangabad, my
niece was taken iU with fever, which subsequently
developed into meningitis. This was indeed a sad time ;
for some weeks Nettie lay between Hfe and death, and
during this period the"great kindness and care of the
missionaries, especiaUy of Miss Dixon and Miss Evans,
will ever be reraerabered by us with deep gratitude.
A nurse came to us from Bombay, and Effie WilUams
from Sohagpur, where we had stayed, both of whom
were a great help.
When the weather became hotter, the doctor advised
the voyage horae. I went to Borabay to take our
passage, and Miss Evans and the nurse brought my
niece the next day ; the nurse accompanied us as far
as Brindisi.
I think this was the saddest and most anxious time
in my Hie, the fear that this loved girl would be taken
from us ; the trouble we were giving to our friends, and
the hindrance I felt we were to their work, weighed on
my mind terribly.

112 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
Yet in looking back I see how this sad experience has
deepened my interest in the mission, and my sympathy
with the workers, thus teaching me to pray " Thy
Kingdom come " as I had never done before ; indeed
from this time ray heart has been Hfted in prayer for
India alraost daUy, and I rejoice to know how the work
there has grown and developed since 1893.

CHAPTER XI.
ARMENIAN RELIEF WORK.— BOURGAS.
During the summer and autumn of 1896 such terrible
accounts reached England of the massacres of Armenians
in Asia Minor (AnatoUa) and Constantinople, that
Friends estabUshed an Armenian ReUef Committee in
London. Many refugees had fled to Bulgaria, and were
in great distress, especiaUy at Varna and Bourgas on
the Black Sea.
I offered to help distribute relief, and was joined
at Buda Pesth by Miss Frazer, a missionary from
Armenia who (in connection with Lady Henry
Somerset) had been helping those refugees who fled to
Marseilles ; and as they had by that time been assisted
to get to America, London, etc.. Miss Frazer was at
Hberty. We went first to PhiHppopolis, where EUzabeth B.
Tonjoroff was busily at work amongst the refugees.
Finding so little was being done at Varna, Miss Frazer
went on and did a noble work amongst the thousands
who were there in great distress.
I stayed two weeks at PhiUppopoUs, assisting in opening
a sewing class for the poor women, and distributing
clothiiig, food, etc. One day the mothers brought their
children for clothing, and I think I never saw such a
113 8

1 14 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
set of pretty, bright Uttle ones, with dark hair and eyes,
and such inteUigent countenances.
E. B. Tonjoroff kindly accompanied me to Bourgas,
and introduced me to a few persons, before returning to
her work at PhiUppopoUs.
A smaU reUef committee had already been estabUshed,
but their funds were exhausted. The president of this
committee accompanied us to the different places where
the poor women and children were sheltered ; eighteen
men were sleeping in the Gregorian Church, with twelve
women in the gallery. In a large shed near, the floor was
spread with mats and beds for a number of women and
chUdren, and in an adjoining room for a number oi men ;
in an old disused shop there were twenty-five persons.
It was a very sad sight ; these people driven irom their
homes, many having their husbands and sons kiUed,
and having lost everything except the clothes in which
they had escaped, and in some cases their beds and a
few rugs. Several women were lying down in despair,
their nerves shattered and quite spiritless. I pointed
upwards, and told them God had not forgotten them ;
they must cheer up ; I had come to be a mother to
them. The reUef committee was suppUed with bread, a large
brass boiler was made, soup prepared daily and boUed
on a fire lighted in the churchyard, and rents paid, when
rooms could be found.
We next hired two rooms for a work and a store
room and employed the women and girls in making
clothing, for which they were paid, as they needed
a Uttle money to get oil and soap, and raUk for

ARMENIAN RELIEF WORK, BOURGAS. 115
the chUdren, as they could not Hve only on bread
and soup.
I was helped by three young Armenian men who had
fled from Constantinople at the time of the massacres
there ; they were students from Robert CoUege on the
Bosphoms and could speak EngUsh. We found the
women very clean, capable and industrious. The young
men wrote out the names, assisted in paying, read the
Bible, and interpreted, as we had a short religious service
each day.
Extracts from letters written at the time to the London
Committee will best describe the work.
" Bourgas, December 16th, 1896.
" Sir Arthur and Lady Hayter, representing the Duke
of Westminster's Committee have been here, and things
are nicely in train. There are more men than women
now needing clothing ; some are simply a mass of rags
so we are quite thankful for the cases from Willesden,
which came free of duty. We are employing four men
and three women to make fishing nets. I bought 200
blankets, as many of the men were sleeping on planks
(part of the packing cases from England), laid on the
mud floors of the coffee houses, and had no covering.
" Dr. Clarke, of PhiUppopoUs, an American missionary,
who has been thirty years in Bulgaria, has superintended
the building of a house to accommodate ten families
(we caU it the barracks), with money from the Duke of
Westminster's Fund ; this leaves the large disused old
shop in which they had been Hving at Hberty for thirty
or forty men who needed shelter.

ii6 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
" We are in touch with aU the needy Armenian
women and children ; clothing is given, rents paid,
firing, bread and soup suppUed, while each woman
earns a trifle at the sewing class. Without this
needed reUef, their condition would indeed have
been sad.
" Then the Christian influence and cheer that is
brought into their Uves is of immense value.
" The sewing-room is a happy centre of work, and is
used twice every day, except on Thursday afternoons,
when the young people come to my room at the hotel,
to a Christian Endeavour meeting.
" We have undertaken the relief at Slevin, where there
are many refugees, and are sending them twenty-three
yeogans (padded cotton quilts, costing about 5s. each) ;
we find there is also much distress at Yambol, amongst
the Armenian refugees. Dr. Clarke, has kindly visited
these places for us, and we have forwarded two large
packages of clothing and thirty more yeogans for their
use. " We are sending money as well as clothing to Slevin.
I have a free first-class ticket to Yambol, but going
there means getting up at 4.30 a.m., walking in the dark
and without breakfast, through the muddy ill-paved
streets to the train, and not getting back tiU 11 p.m.
"Bourgas, December 24th, 1896.
" A number of poor men arrived from Athens to-day,
where they had been in hopes of getting employment,
but, owing to the war between Greece and Turkey
(Crete), they were almost starving. It is very difiiciUt

ARMENIAN RELIEF WORK, BOURGAS. 117
to get lodgings for them; eighty men slept in the
Armenian Church last night.
"The Armenian Archbishop has been here the last
two weeks ; he visited the sewing class, and spoke
warmly of what is being done for their nation ; he gave
the women a capital address on industry, saying,
' Laziness is one of the seven great sins ' ; he also paid
me a personal visit with the president of the Committee,
as I have been laid up for some days.
" We have had some real good reUgious meetings, both
Sunday School and Christian Endeavour, with the three
students from Robert CoUege, and some of the more
educated young people ; these have been held in my
room since I have been iU.
"Bourgas, January ^rd, 1897.
" The New Year has been such a happy time in the
receipt of clothing and material from England. There
were nine large wooden cases with parcels from various
kind donors, so that we have been able to clothe the most
destitute women and children. On first coming, we
bought up all the yeogans in Bourgas, and sent to
Constantinople for a fresh supply, as it was absolutely
necessary to procure bed clothing.
"When the bales of coloured blankets arrived, our
wants in that line were more than supplied. A good
many of the Armenian men were porters who had
escaped from Constantinople at the time of the mas
sacre there ; these wore baggy grey trousers, and
rough, coarse clothing in rags that hardly covered
them, so some of the blankets were cut up into

118 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
coats and trousers for thera ; seven blankets would
make thirteen coats.
" It was very touching to see the better class people
so destitute ; the men's clothing sent from England is
a great boon to them, but it has to be given rather
privately as aU are anxious to get the EngUsh
garments. " I have been much encouraged by having an oppor
tunity of coming in contact with the people, and being
enabled to speak of God's loving care for both body and
soul, and of the Home, eternal in Heaven, from which
only unpardoned sin and unbeUef can exclude us. It
is sweet to hear them sing in Armenian, ' What a Friend
we have in Jesus,' and other hymns in our home tunes.
The depressed looks and manners of most of the women
are quite gone, — the many proofs they have had that
they are not forgotten by God or man have wrought
such a wonderful change in them.
" Bourgas, January 12th, 1897.
" During the last two weeks we have given away sixty-
four pairs of trousers : viz., nineteen EngHsh, sixteen
made from the coloured blankets and twenty-nine from
shiack (a native cloth), also fifty-nine coats, of which
forty-two were made out of the blankets, the others
being EngHsh.
" Most of the men wear rough, baggy trousers, as
these are most suitable for winter; we keep the EngHsh
trousers for a different class of raen, some of whom
have been tradesmen.
" Besides the above, we have sent 200 blankets to

ARMENIAN RELIEF WORK, BOURGAS. 119
Varna, 200 to PhiUppoHs, and 50 to Yambol, the rest
we need here.
" We have also forwarded six bales of clothing to E. B.
Tonjoroff for women and children ; and in addition to
the blankets sent to Varna, have sent also some bales
of flannel and flannelette, with six dozen pairs of stock
ings. AU this unpacking, sorting and re-packing, took
much time and labour. The three young men from
Robert CoUege are most useful, as they interpret the
Hsts of clothing needed, sent from various towns and
viUages, help to pack the parcels, and take them to the
stations, etc. " Bourgas, February 2Sth, 1897.
"A very interesting reUgious work has sprung out of
the reUef work. There is no Protestant place of worship
at Bourgas, but we have on Sunday mornings (in our
sewing room), a meeting, attended by from fifteen to
twenty-five persons. The other day with fiiteen present,
eight persons offered prayer, in five different languages,
Armenian, Bulgarian, Greek, Turkish and EngUsh. It
is a comiort that, though we do not understand each
other's prayers, all are known by our loving Lord.
When ' Jesus, lover oi my soul ' is sung in these various
languages, but in the same tune, it is impossible to
recognise one tongue irom another, though we certainly
could easily distinguish the stentorian voice of the only
Bulgarian, Mr. Tankoff, an ironmonger, who has been
a great help to us in many ways.
"We have a mission meeting on Sunday evenings,
attended by from sixty to a hundred, and also a week

I20 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
evening Bible reading attended by from thirty to fifty,
principaUy men.
"An EvangeUcal Society from Berlin has sent an
Armenian pastor to open a school for the refugee chil
dren ; they have taken a house, and engaged one of the
reiugees, an earnest young woman irom the raissionary
college at Scutari, as teacher.
" I am glad to hire a room in the same house, and
thus leave the poor and comiortless hotel in which I have
been staying the past iour months.
" My iurniture is made principaUy oi the large cases
in which clothing was sent irom England ; two oi these
support a spring mattress ; table and washstand are
raade irom other cases. I have purchased two chairs,
and hired a iew other articles. My helpers buy mUk
and bread ior me, and the dinner is sent irom a
restaurant ; butter, there is none ; eggs are plentiiul,
and with the addition oi one pennyworth of curd, it is
easy to raake an omelette ; I also cut up oranges for
marmalade. "It sometimes strikes me as remarkable that I can be
truly happy here, the only EngHsh person in a town of
8,000 inhabitants, and very few who can speak our
language. " I have been gladdened by a visit from Mr. Adams,
who did such a good work in employing the refugees
at Varna ; he spent part of two days here.
"Bourgas, March 2nd, 1897.
"This is a great port for exporting wheat to MarseiUes.
I noticed at the quay large enclosures made up with

ARMENIAN RELIEF WORK. BOURGAS. 121
sacks of wheat, and inside them heaps of grain, and am
glad to find that some of the Armenian refugees are
emplo3«ed in loading the ships. Near the quay there are
immense granaries ; these date from Turkish times, and
are stiU in use.
"Bulgaria had a good harvest last year; on the whole
the country is prosperous ; these thrifty Armenians
coming in, wiU probably be a great help in the future.
"Bourgas is an increasing place ; they are making a
new quay ; it is very pretty by the sea, but till last week
I had no time to go, though I have enjoyed some walks
in the park they are laying out on the cliff overlooking
the bay, on to the opposite mountains. Lately we have
started a factory for printing coloured patterns on
the handkerchiefs which the Armenian women wear on
their heads. Mr. Armaganian has been engaged before
in this work at Constantinople. The white musUn comes
from Manchester ; the handkerchiefs are stamped by
hand in patterns frora wooden blocks, and coloured
by hand. It is good to see some twenty people to
whom we have been giving reUef aU the winter, now
busily at work.
"I am now waiting for the ship for Varna. There are
a great many more needy Armenians there, where Miss
Frazer has been " holding the fort " for three months,
and Mr. Adams has started workshops which have done
much good in employing the men.
"Varna, March yd, 1897.
"Arrived here 3.30 p.m. after a sail of six hours from
Bourgas, and was very glad that Miss Frazer sent two

122 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
Armenian gentlemen to meet me. There is no pier,
and I had to get into a boat, and there was a great swell
on, which made it very difiicult.
" I am now with Miss Frazer at her scene
of labour, an old hospital lent by the govern
ment ; 700 refugees Hve in it, and it is a very
busy scene; they have 6,000 on their reUef list.
How Miss Frazer has held out I do not know,
but she has some good helpers, and understands both
Armenian and Turkish.
" I went round with her ; there are fifty people in
one large room, each family has a smaU space with
beds, their boxes, etc., put up to make a division
between them and their neighbours, and there are
several other rooms similarly arranged.
"There are also two schoolrooms, for which the Bul
garians have lent desks, etc. ; then there are two larger
rooms where girls are employed doing some beautiful
embroidery ; these are paid one franc daily, and are
thus off the reUef list.
"After lunch Miss Frazer took me a drive round
Varna ; it is a much larger place than Bourgas. We
visited one oi the workshops established by Mr. Adams,
with money irom the Friends' Fund, a brass foundry,
where forty men are employed.
"I am astonished at aU they have done and are
doing ; they are graduaUy reducing the reUef .
" My visit to Varna has been quite a rest and change
— to lodge two nights in a comfortable hotel, to sit
down to nicely-served meals, etc. ; but I was glad to
return to my own poor people at Bourgas."

ARMENIAN RELIEF WORK, BOURGAS. 123
As spring came on, a few returned to Constantinople,
others were helped to England, Germany and America,
so that in April I was able to leave, and pay a visit to
the Friends' Mission in Constantinople, where Miss
Burgess and Miss Clarke were doing a splendid work.
The former was very sadly after " holding the fort "
through the trying time of the massacres, and the relief
work. I, too, was far from weU, so we stayed for a
week at Therapia on the Bosphorus, amid some of
the most lovely scenery in the world. As we thought
of the hundreds of poor Armenian porters who were
knocked down with clubs, and boat-loads of their bodies
taken away and thrown into its waters, the terrible
cmelty of it all weighed upon our spirits, notwithstanding
the songs of the nightingales, the beauty of the flowering
shmbs (Banksia roses laden with bloom as thickly as our
hawthorns in spring), busy steamboats plying to and
fro, the pretty villages both on the European and Asiatic
sides, with marble palaces down to the water's edge.
What a contrast ! !

CHAPTER XII.
BROUSSA.
I left Constantinople May 20th, 1897, with Miss Barker,
one of the American missionaries, for the interesting and
ancient city of Broussa. A sail of five hours across the
Sea of Marmora brought us to the village of Mudania,
where we hired a carriage for a drive of fifteen miles
through a beautiful and fertile country, with oUves,
mulberries, patches of corn and wild flowers.
This city of 90,000 inhabitants lying at the foot of the
Asian Olympus, was iounded by Pruss, Kingoi Bithynia,
about 220 B.C. Here Hannibal fied irom the Romans,
and here he died by poison, opening the ring on his
finger, where he is said to have carried it in case oi
emergency. In 75 B.C., Broussa came into the hands of the Romans,
and afterwards was by turns in possession of Christians
and Mahommedans, and then taken by the Cmsaders ;
some remains of ancient Greek Churches may stiU be
seen there.
In 1427, it was captured by the Turks, and became
the capital of the Ottoman Empire, till the conquest
of Constantinople by Muhammed II. in 1453. It
is indeed sad to see the Cross thus give way to
the Crescent. 124

BROUSSA. 125
Doubtless if there had been more Christian unity,
this could never have taken place. The situation of the
city is very beautiful ; it is about 600 ft. above the sea,
is backed by snow-clad Olympus, and looks down on a
fertile plain where the dark cypress and white minarets
of the many mosques are interspersed with the fresh
green of numberless mulberry and walnut trees, and
beyond Hes the Sea of Marmora.
The foUowing are frora notes raade at the time : —
" We were heartily received by the American mission
aries, Mr. and Mrs. Baldwin, and much interested in
visiting the two orphanages for Armenian children.
"That in East Broussa was founded by Mr. and Mrs.
Baghdasarian in 1875, for the famine children of that
year, and now has many of the orphans from the late
massacres, some from Constantinople, and some from
the interior ; there are at present ninety-six inmates.
"We spoke to two girls, fourteen and sixteen years of
age, whose parents and other relatives were shot or
burned ; their five children secreted themselves in the
ceUar where the flames did not reach. We are constantly
meeting with such sad, sad histories.
"The other Orphanage, West Broussa, was opened
January, 1897, in a good building, formerly a girls'
boarding school of the American Mission ; it has twenty-
nine girls, and more are shortly expected from the interior.
One poor girl had all her relatives kiUed, and is in such
a sad state of health frora the shock and the dreadful
sights she beheld, that it is feared she will not recover ;
she is about sixteen ; we could not get a word or a sraile
from her.

126 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
" Sunday, May 2zrd, we attended the Armenian church,
built by Dr. Cyms Hamlin (the founder of Robert
CoUege), from the profit of the bakeries opened to supply
our army at Scutari at the time of the Crimean War.
" Some of the Armenians had previously come out from
the Gregorian church, for which they were boycotted
by their countrymen ; Dr. HamUn started them making
bread, and when our troops were stationed at Scutari,
they were asked to supply the bread.
" At the close of the Sunday service in the church,
the women were invited to stay, and I had the oppor
tunity of addressing them ; several members of the
congregation had raoved to Bourgas in Bulgaria and
helped me in relief work there, so their friends were
much interested.
" In the afternoon we went by appointment to the West
Broussa Orphanage, escorted by the ' Dundas.' This
is the man who is kept to conduct children to school
and back ; the word is the same as that used in Gal. iU.
24, ' The law was our schoolmaster to bring us to
Christ ' ; the walk was very pretty, looking up ' the
heavenly valley,' and over this picturesque city. We
longed to take a good ramble over the hUls, but here, as
in other parts of Turkey, it is not safe to go out of the
beaten track, or wander about alone. How often we
think of those Unes, ' every prospect pleases, and only
man is vile,' for the Sultan mles some of the fairest
provinces of the world which our Heavenly Father has
made so beautiful.
" The orphanage children sang hymns both in Armenian
and English, and answered questions intelUgently. We

BROUSSA. 127
are indeed thankful to find these two orphanages receiving
children from the country parts, and bringing them up
amongst their own people, for Broussa itself was merci-
fuUy spared a massacre, though the inhabitants were
threatened, and the people stiU live in continual fear,
there being about 12,000 Armenians in the city itself.
" The chief industry of the place is the cultivation of
silk worms, silk spinning, and the weaving of that pretty
silk, ' Broussa gauze.'
" The ancient city of Nicsea, where the first Christian
Council was held a.d. 325, is within a day's journey ;
but in the present state of the country it would not be
advisable to visit it.
" It is sad to think of this country as the seat oi Mahom-
medanism, and that the people belonging to the most
ancient Christian Church have been decimated, and
those leit live in continual iear."

CHAPTER XIII.
SMYRNA AND JERUSALEM.
After returning to Constantinople, Margaret A. Clarke
oi the Friends' Mission, Stamboul, went with me to
Smyrna, where we arrived aiter a sail oi twenty-fojir
hours. Having an introduction from the American mission
aries, we called on Mr. McNaughton, who kindly went
with us to the grave of Polycarp, Bishop of Smyrna,
who was burnt here a.d. ii6.
On Sunday we attended the English Union Service,
and at 3 p.m. spoke in the Protestant Armenian Church,
also at five in the same place to the Greeks.
On Monday we attended the opening exercises of the
American Mission Girls' School, 130 present ; afterwards
visiting the Gregorian Girls' School. Here I met some
Armenian ladies who were greatly interested in hearing
of Friends' reUef work in Bulgaria, and sent warm ex
pressions of gratitude for help given, one lady saying :
" We thank you very much for your care of our people
in their trouble, but cannot you do something to alter
the state of things so that these cmelties should be
stopped, and we able to live in safety, etc. ? " One of the
girls rang a sweet, pathetic song in Armenian, which,
translated, says : — 128

SMYRNA. 129
The spring has come, but it brings no help to us,
Our country is desolate, our friends slain ;
The birds sing, but there is no joy in their song.
For we mourn for our loved ones ;
The flowers are blooming upon the earth,
But to us they bring no pleasure.
Our hearts are bleeding, our nation scattered.
After this we visited a large orphanage presided over
by the Kaiserwerth Deaconesses. Many of the children
came from places in the interior of Armenia, the scene
of the most terrible massacres. There are 150 girls
under loving Christian care, but the elder ones can never
forget the horrors they have witnessed.
We next paid a visit to the Orphanage recently opened
by the Brethren (Dunkerds of America) ; here we saw
a poor girl whose father and mother were burned at
Urfa in the church with 3,000 others ; she was saved by
hiding fourteen hours in a well.
Our next visit was to an Orphanage for girls supported
by the Armenians of Smyrna ; we saw there an interest
ing piece of work done by the girls representing Mount
Ararat with the ark resting on its summit, the country
all round in ruins, and the words woven in, " Armenia's
tribute of gratitude to the Christian Herald."
Then we went to the Boys' High School (American
Mission), composed of Armenians, Greeks and Jews, and
left the older lads as a motto. Young's line, " A Christian
is the highest style of man " ; this with a peep at two
Kindergartens completed our morning's work.
At 4 p.m. on June 6th we leit by Austrian Lloyd for
Beirout to visit our Friends' Mission at Brumana,
Ellen Clayton and the other missionaries giving us
0

130 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
a hearty welcome to that goodly mountain. The
Medical Mission and Schools are centres oi Hght:
From Beirout we took boat to Jaffa and thence by
train to Jerusalem; where we stayed more than a
week, during which time I visited the American
Friends' Mission at RamaUah. It is about iour hours'
ride on horseback; I was there from Saturday to
Monday. Timothy B. Hussey and wife were
superintending the mission.
It was curious to see the camels with large wooden
saddles laden with blocks of stone for the new Boarding
School which was just being erected.
The grand work carried on by American friends here
was the result of the visit of EU and SybU Jones in 1869.
I saw the grave of their nephew, Charles M. Jones, who
was buried here.
Since then, Mrs. Hussey and her sister have passed
away, and their remains are interred in the same ground.
After a few more days in Jemsalem, M. A. Clarke and
I traveUed to Jaffa, both much rested after an arduous
winter's work — ^she to return to Constantinople and I
to London.

CHAPTER XIV.
ATHENS, SMYRNA, MARSOVAN, etc.
The spring of the year 1898 was of rather special interest ;
the strain of the massacre years was over, when so many
Armenians were slain, and I was able to visit the Missions
and Orphanages, and to see the efforts being put forth
for helping this sorely-stripped people, smd I trust
giving a Uttle cheer to the devoted workers.
On March 19th, we sailed from Marseilles for Athens.
The voyage was enjoyable ; through the Straits of
Bonifacio, and past the Lipari Islands and Stromboli,
a rocky volcano in the ocean from which smoke was
issuing as we steamed past.
On nearing Crete, the mountains stood out boldly,
covered with snow ; we anchored for some time in the
Bay of Suda. Many warships were in the Bay, owing
to the trouble in Crete, and the war between Greece
and Turkey.
"March 24th, we landed at the Piraeus in pouring rain
at 6 a.m. ; drove four mUes into Athens, and during
the morning called at the house of Dr. Kalopothakes
to whom J. B. Braithwaite had given me an introduction ;
he is agent for the British and Foreign Bible Society.
"I was just in time for an interesting function, the
opening of a Creche by the Crown Princess Sophia,
'31

132 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
sister of the Kaiser. This was started by Miss Dr.
Kalopothakes, who had helped the Princess so rauch
amongst the wounded at and after the late fighting at
Volo. The dedication service was held in the chUdren's
playground, at the foot of the Acropolis, Mount Lyca-
batus on the opposite side, and close by most beautiiul
ruins, broken columns, etc. A deal table was placed
in iront oi two gorgeously attired Greek priests ; on it
stood lighted candles in large silver candlesticks ; the
wind was blowing so strongly that two girls had to hold
umbrellas to prevent them being blown out ; I was
terribly airaid the umbreUas would catch fire. The
Princess who was quietly dressed in navy blue, and her
lady attendants stood near. Many prayers were read,
many genuflexions made, holy water sprinkled irom
an enameUed tin basin, and the long service was over.
We had been standing aU the time, and were aiterwards
shown over the buUding.
"March 25th, leit the hotel ior a boarding house kept
by Madame Polynates, an English lady, who formerly
had a situation in the palace, and is married to a Greek.
Here I met raany interesting people, raostly archaeolo
gists ; one a charraing American girl who had a scholar
ship and was studying ; she lent me a pleasing little
book : ' The Other Wise Man.' I learnt much through
ray feUow-boarders. but greatly lamented my ignorance
of classic history.
"Sunday, attended the EngUsh Protestant Church,
and in the evening Dr. Kalopothakes' service among the
Greeks ; this was the only Protestant service for natives
in Athens,

ATHENS, SMYRNA, MARSOVAN. 133
"There were a great many refugees from Thessaly
and other parts of Greece in the city at that time.
" Lady Egerton (a Russian lady), wife oi the English
ambassador, opened extensive reliei works.
" I visited a large shed used as a iactory, where some
aged women were sitting on the ground spinning, others
weaving ; the cotton cloth, called crepon, was soaked
in water to make it crepe ; then there were rooms with
girls employed in embroidery, some tracing the patterns,
others working in the silk ; they used designs irom old
Greek patterns. Miss Kalopathakes and other ladies
helped in the reliei work. I need not enter into particu
lars oi ray visits to the Acropolis, Mars HiU, the Teraples
oi Venus, Eleusis, etc., but remember speciaUy noticing,
in the market-place at the ioot oi Mars HUl, a stone
pillar, on which was engraved the price oi oU in the tirae
of Hadrian. It was striking to see the many beautiful
raodern buUdings in the city erected by Greek raerchants
of Manchester, Alexandria, etc. ; they evidently took
pride in embeUishing their native city with architecture
in classic style, copied from the many exquisite ruins
which abound.
" One day we went to a carpet warehouse ; the
merchant was raost enthusiastic about his wares ; he
showed us a beautiful hand-made rug woven in silk
instead of wool, price £150.
" These Eastern rugs are of very beautiful colours ;
vegetable dyes are used for them, which do not fade,
though the colours tone down with age. This
merchant makes annual excursions into Asia Minor
(AnatoUa), and sometimes buys valuable rugs from

134 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
the mosques, which are replaced by raodern and
cheaper ones."
The Arraenians are many of them highly skUled in
carpet and rug weaving. I have seen some beautiful
rugs from Ourfa and adjoining districts in Dr. Rendel
Harris' home.
After the massacres of 1896-7 Dr. and Mrs. Harris
helped many of these poor people to start work again
in this line, and in my travels in the near East, I fre
quently heard of the help and encourageraent they had
given after the terrible troubles.
Athens is a raost delightiul city to visit ; I would
strongly recoraraend anyone wishing to spend sorae
time abroad to stay three or iour weeks there.
Sunday, AprU 3rd, wiU ever be connected in my mind
with some hours spent in the King's Garden adjoining
the Royal Palace, reading Myers' " St. Paul," sur
rounded by orange trees laden with both fruit and
flowers. AprU 7th, left Athens (the Piraeus), at 9 a.ra. arriving
at Smyrna that evening, and getting a hearty greeting
frora Mr. and Mrs. McNaughton. Their horae is at
Caratach on the Bay, about three raUes from the city ;
Mr. McNaughton goes in by boat daily. The house
belonged to an English gentleraan who had left, and it
was let at a low rent ; it is most charmingly situated on a
hUl looking across the Bay to mountains on the opposite
side ; we gazed down the slope on briUiant flowering
trees, and a ravine with fancy bridges.
Mrs. McNaughton had a good deal of Christian work
m adjoining viUages; each day seeraed fuU of engage-

ATHENS, SMYRNA, MARSOVAN. 135
ments. I wUl just copy a few items from a journal kept
at the time : —
" April x-3,th. — ^Turkish ladies called. Afternoon treat
given to Armenian chUdren in the garden.
"April 15th. — CaUed on Countess Grceben, who is
doing good work visiting ships in the Bay and
distributing Gospels.
"April 20th. — ^Armenian Mothers' Meeting, Bible
reading and singing. Heard some sad stories of their
sufferings, and of friends massacred the previous year_
"April 22nd. — By boat to Smyrna to meet Miss
MuUinger, who was returning to her forraer sphere of
work, and Miss Newnhara, who carae out to help the
missionaries." That afternoon, Mrs. McNaughton and I, with their
youngest chUd, a little girl of three years old, left for
a few days in Mytilene. This is an island belonging to
Turkey, the inhabitants Greeks ; it was rather curious
that little Margaret was the only one of us who could
speak raodern Greek ; she had learned a good raany
words from their gardener. Aiter four very enjoyable
days in this interesting island, we returned to Smyrna,
and thence. May 2nd, I went to Constantinople, staying
part of the time with . the Araerican missionaries at
Gedeck Pasha, and part at the Friends' Mission near
(caUed Friends' Armenian Mission).""
Diuring this month I paid visits to missions in Con-
* Miss Burgess, with her helpers, has greatly developed the
work ; besidethe small orphanage, they have large day and Sunday
schools, employ many widows at embroidery, and at the present
time (Dec. 191 o), some Turks are attending their meetings and
classes ; the secretary is J. Hipgston Fox, Cambridge.

136 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
stantinople and neighbourhood. I look back with
especial pleasure to some days spent at Robert CoUege,
which is beautifuUy situated above Bebek on the
Bosphorus. I was kindly entertained there by Dr. and
Mrs. Washburn (Mrs. W. is a daughter of Cyrus
HamUn). The influence of Robert CoUege is very wide ;
it is said that it has been the making of Bulgaria, for
many of her leading men were forraer students.
The lovely Bosphorus wiU ever be to me a scene of
beauty and " a joy for ever," and with its memory
stUl mingles the song oi nightingales with which I was
awakened at 4.30 a.m. ; notwithstanding this, and
under aU, is the heartache at the thought oi the poor
Armenian porters and others, whose dead bodies were
carried out in boat loads and thrown into its peaceiul
waters. The Americans have a splendid work on the Asiatic
side of the Bosphorus. The Girls' Home School or
CoUege at Scutari, of which the Lady Principal is Dr.
Patrick, is training Christian workers and teachers, and
buUding up character amongst Greek and Armenian
girls. I spent several days there, taking part in Bible
Classes, etc., also visited the aged Dr. Riggs and W. W.
Peat (Secretary of the Araerican Board of Missionaries),
whose name is so weU known to all who have endeavoured
to help the Arraenians in their troubles.
How little we thought at that time, 1898, that, ten
years after, another terrible massacre would be perpe
trated at Adana, near St. Paul's city of Tarsus in CUicia,
when over 30,000 were done to death. I feel that the
English have been slow to take in the fact, that during

ATHENS, SMYRNA, MARSOVAN. 137
the present generation, persecutions and tortures have
been inflicted on Armenian Christians, as cruel as any
in the time of Nero.
I stayed. May nth, with some of the missionaries at
Hasskuey, a suburb oi Constantinople, where a great
number oi Armenians were kiUed. At a large Mothers'
Meeting there, all were in deep black; aU had lost
husband, sons or brothers in 1896.
One superior-looking old lady, iormerly well off,
lived at Enghin in Asia. Missionaries and preachers
were usuaUy entertained at their comfortable home, but
husband, two sons, and a son-in-law were kUled, the city
burned down, and at this time she and three widowed
daughters were living in one room, in a poor quarter oi
Constantinople. I remember at Bourgas, several of
the refugees told us they fled from Hasskuey.
June 6th, Mrs. Marden and I left Constantinople for
Samsoon on the Black Sea ; the boat was laden with
pilgriras returning frora Mecca ; they had their own
provisions, beds, and rugs, and lived and slept on the
deck ; it was quite a novel sight to watch them in
various picturesque groups.
We landed at Samsoon, June 9th, at 4 p.m., and
found the large spring wagon sent by the missionaries
from Marsovan seventy mUes inland was there ready
to start the next morning.
The taU driver, a Turk, with pistols in his sash or
girdle, a belt of ammunition frora shoulder to waist,
looked very formidable. I queried whether being a
Friend and a strong raeraber of the Peace Society, I could
be conducted by such a person. " Oh, you need have

138 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
no fear of his having to use his weapons, his very appear
ance wUl cause you to be let alone ! "
The next morning we were off ; the drive through the
country was very interesting ; we stopped by the road
side for our lunch, which had kindly been sent for us,
passed groups of forlorn-looking, ragged Turkish soldiers,
returning to their homes after the fighting in Thessaly,
met strings of camels going to the coast for merchandise,
passed heavUy laden carts with solid wheels (no
spokes), which groaned terribly as they were being
puUed through the mud ; ii we had not known frora
what the trymg noise proceeded, and that it was not any
suffering animal, it would have got on our nerves more
powerfuUy than was the case. Towards evening our
wagon was driven under the large gateway into the
enclosure of an Eastern khan. There were stables
round three sides, and over thera rooras for the accora-
modation of traveUers. Soon our man brought up two
smaU iron bedsteads and placed them in the middle of a
good-sized empty room ; then our provision basket was
opened ; we ordered coffee to be sent up, made our
supper, and were ready to retire, Mrs. Marden telling
me I must tuck up the corners of the bedclothes, so that
they did not touch the floor, also put my garraents on the
bed, or sorae lively little insects raight find us out, and
disturb the sleep we sorely needed.
Next morning a great packing up of bedding, etc.,
took place, and we resumed our journey, finding the
drive and seeing so much of the country quite enjoyable.
We had lunch again en route ; sometimes one of us sat
beside the driver, whUst the other was seated on the

ATHENS, SMYRNA, MARSOVAN. 139
bundles of bedding, etc., in the wagon ; but at last
pleasure gave way to fatigue, and we rejoiced when
we were raet a few miles frora Marsovan by Dr. and
Mrs. Tracey. who had driven out to meet us, and further
on by other missionaries ; then came a group of students
singing songs of welcome. This was quite a character
istic Eastern reception. We were soon comfortably
settled in Anatolia CoUege Campus, the headquarters
of the mission, with its schools, class-rooms, chapel,
massacre-orphanage and small hospital. The latter
was commenced by our Friend Josephine Taylor (now
Mrs. Hoyland), who went out to assist soon after the
troubles of 1896.
This visit was fuU of interest not only in connection
with the CoUege, but also because way opened to hold
meetings with the Gregorian Armenians, to visit their
day-school, and on the Saturday, to address 700 chUdren
in the Protestant Church.
The raassacre at Marsovan was a comparatively small
one ; it lasted only a few hours, duringwhich about 350,
principaUy men, were kiUed; raany of their chUdren were
at the raission schpol at the time, and were kept all night.
June 14th, went with Mrs. Tracey a six hours' drive
in the raission wagon to Amasia, a town on the river
Halys, which divides into two branches. On the point
of land between them stands the ancient castle of
Mithridates, named after one of the kings oi Pontus,
Mithridates VI., who was a very poweriul and
remarkable man, and withstood the Romans ior many
years. The town is picturesquely situated on the banks
of the river, at the foot of the castle.

140 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
That evening we had a raeeting with the leading
Armenians in Amasia, and again heard detaUs of the
murder of their relatives. The principal business of
the place is rearing sUkworms ; one of the chief citizens.
an Armenian, was in great trouble, as next day the
Governor, with ladies belonging to His harem, was to
visit the town ; his house and grounds were requisitioned
for their accommodation, he and his faraUy having to
move out. It was sad to witness his depression. Nomen
were to be aUowed inside, and he feared aU his sUkworms
would die of neglect, and all the fruits in his beautiful
gardens would be used. We reaped some benefit,
however, as the roads from Amasia to Marsovan were
being repaired and raade raore passable.
The next raorning we visited the schools and Mothers'
Meeting under the care of trained teachers from the
Marsovan CoUege, and also saw some beautUul carpets
being woven.
In the afternoon we returned to Marsovan, and a
few days later took the seventy raUes drive to Samsoon,
and back to Constantinople by June 25th.
June 30th, left Constantinople by boat for Varna —
spent a day visiting the industrial work (embroidery,
etc.) there, on to Bourgas for two days, seeing some of
my old friends, though the majority of them had left
for America, Egypt, etc., and some to return to their
homes in Constantinople or Asia.
From Bourgas I took train via PhiUppopoUs to Barnia
Station, where Dr. Clarke kindly met rae at 2 a.ra. and
took me the four hours' drive to their centre of missionary
work at Samarkov in Bulgaria. Here the Araericans

ATHENS, SMYRNA, MARSOVAN. 141
have their usual good staff of workers, and are training
the Bulgarians for pastors and teachers.
Miss Stone, who with the wife of one of their workers
(Mrs. Tsilka), was captured by the brigands in the
autumn of 1900, was one of their missionaries. As
Dr. Tracey needed rest and change, he spent a few
days at Samarkov, and then, leaving on July nth,
he accorapanied me to England. We travelled via
Belgrade, Buda-Pesth, Vienna, the Danube, Nurem-
burg, the Rhine to Cologne, and Brussels, reaching
London July 19th.

CHAPTER XV.
EGYPT, CYPRUS, AND DUKHOBORS.
On my way to Cyprus in the beginning of 1899 I stayed
five weeks in Egypt, and during the latter part of the
time spent nineteen days going up the Nile, in the
Puritan, a steamer belonging to the Anglo-American
Nile Service ; we went as far as the first cataract, about
730 miles from Alexandria.
At Cairo I paid several visits to the American Mission
(Presbyterian), having a meeting with about 100 of the
elder scholars in their day and boarding schools ; one
of the young women teachers was educated at Brumana,
and was much interested in hearing of our friends in
the Lebanon. I spent six days with the ladies at the
Church Mission Home (EngHsh), meeting there two Httle
Armenian girls, whom I had previously seen at Reigate ;
they with their mother had fled to England, her husband
having been kUled in Constantinople. They were
afterwards helped to Cairo, where they had friends.
One day I went to Old Cairo, and over the new hospital
connected with the Church Medical Mission. I also
gave a Bible reading at the Soldiers' Home, and attended
several prayer meetings and the Christian Endeavour.
On the 13th I went to Alexandria, and was met by
our young friend, the late EUas H. Thompson, of Belfast,
142

EGYPT, CYPRUS AND DUKHOBORS. 143
having a refreshing visit with " The Egs^ptian Band."
Three of the young men were already at work among the
Moslems in the villages, while four were at the Mission
House, studying the language and helping among the
English-speaking people. I was much interested in
visiting two young EngHsh ladies who have taken a
small house in a Mohammedan viUage and opened a
day-school for girls ; they also visit in the homes of the
people ; their tmly self-denying service drew my heart
out greatly. I spent a pleasant evening with Mr. and
Mrs. Cooper, oi the British and Foreign Bible Society ;
and drove out to call upon the North Airican mission
aries who are labouring almost exclusively among the
Moslems. I tmst the many efforts put iorth for the spread of the
Gospel in Egypt may be owned and blessed of the Lord.
There is still a vast, unoccupied field, and the country
has great claims on us. The Cairo missionaries spoke
most appreciatively of the visit and Bible readings of
our friend, John T. Dorland, and I was glad to be able
to send them his Memoirs. CYPRUS.
The island of C3T)rus is 140 miles from East to West,
and its greatest breadth forty-two miles.
It has an interesting history, not only Biblical, but
also in connection with Richard Cceur de Lion, who was
married here to Berengaria oi Navarre, on his way to the
third Crusade.
Cyprus was taken possession of by the Turks in 1570,
and transferred to England in 1878.

144 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
There is rather an amusing account of the raising of
the British flag in Nicosia, in Hepworth Dixon's book
on Cj^ms. He says : " Admiral Sir John Hay
formed a subtle and humorous plan. Our entry should
be made at once (1878), but in a friendly and civiHan
spirit, taking our right to occupy the soil for granted,
and our welcome by aU classes as a thing of course. AU
salaries were in arrears ; just as the viUagers were in
arrear to the Crown, the Crown was in arrear to aU its
officers. Nothing is so welcome to the eyes of Orientals,
as a Httle coin, especiaUy newly-minted coin. The
Admiral proposed to enter with some sacks of newly-
minted sixpences, and to send before him news that he
was going to pay off aU arrears. He was to go at once
without a guard, to hire a waggonette, the only one
in Cyprus, and to drive up quietly to Nicosia with his
secretary, and a couple of mules laden with EngHsh
sixpences. He would enter Nicosia as the minister of a
Queen who never falls into arrears, and let the people
understand that he was ready to pay the Sultan's debts.
"Was any man from pasha to zaptieh, Ukely to repulse
an ally of the Sultan, who proposed to hand him over his
arrears of pay ? The Ottoman agent, Samih Pasha, and
Secretary Baring arrived. Samih brought a firman or
handwriting from the Sultan for the transfer of his island
to the Queen. The firman was addressed to Pessim
Pasha, governor of Cyprus. Samih and Baring were
wilUng to go to Nicosia, but neither knew the governor.
The next day Admiral Sir John Hay with fifty blue
jackets and fifty marines marched up in the early morn
ing, arriving at eleven o'clock, the hour of prayer. It was

EGYPT, CYPRUS AND DUKHOBORS. 145
Friday, nothing could be done till noon ; so they rested
till three o'clock, and then set out — ^mules gaily
caparisoned, laden with sacks of EngHsh sixpences.
Strange news, a Govemor coming to bring money !
The Golden Age had come again — ^pashas always came
to get — ^not to give.
"The effect was instant, magical. All eyes were
strained after those sumpter mules, aU heads were
bowed before the officer in blue and gold. At the Konak,
Pessim gave up his chair of of&ce, and the EngUsh
Admiral took his seat ; at five, the Ottoman fiag was
lowered with honours, and the British flag run up.
Before Sir Garnet Wolseley arrived, the work of taking
over Cyprus was done ! "
On landing at Lamaka, February 17th, 1899, I was
kindly met by Wilson Sturge, who had been working
devotedly for the Dukhobors, ever since their arrival in
the island.
He had purchased, on behalf of EngUsh Friends, two
large farms, Pergamos and Athalassa, on which a number
of small houses had been built, as it was hoped the
Dukhobors would be able to settle there. About 500
were at Athalassa, 450 at Pergamos and 190 at
Riddells and Kyklia.
The foUowing is a translation of a letter written by the
Dukhobortsi emigrants in Cyprus to the Committee of
the Meeting for Sufferings. It was written from
Pergamos, Cypms : —
"We, Christians of the Universal Brotherhood,
caUed Dukhobors, in the number of over 1,000 men,
Hving on the island of Cyprus, having read Mr. Brooks'

146 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
letter of the 17th inst., feel the moral obUgation of
expressing our deepest thanks to the Committee of
Friends for their help in our emigration, in their support
in feeding us, and for their care of our invaUds. We
know that what the Committee of Friends has done for
us through the medium of the persons sent to us is one
of the bright examples of Christian love which does not
know either national or any other distinctions. One
thing only do we regret — ^that notwithstanding a sUght
ameUoration in the state of our invalids, yet the losses
we have sustained deprive us oi the possibiUty of proving
in actual deed our thankiulness to our iriends. Besides
this, perhaps the further emigration of our friends and
our brethren wiU caU forth fresh efforts on the part of
our friends. We highly value the help of our friends,
for, with our ignorance of the conditions of life abroad,
this help serves us as one of the best guides in the choice
of a definite place of instaUation for our brethren from
the Caucasus and for ourselves.
" We call the blessing of God upon the activity of the
Committee and upon our friends. From the Christians
of the Universal Brotherhood who are in Cypms.
Ivan Abrossimoff,
Gregory Gleboff,
Bassili Gleboff."
"February, 1899. — ^I had asked for a minute for reUgious
service amongst the Dukhobors, and Armenian Refugees
in Cyprus, fearing that the views of the former as to
Christ were not sound. On this subject, I wrote to
H. S. Newman : —

EGYPT, CYPRUS AND DUKHOBORS. 147
" 'I trust the temporal help Friends are giving may
open the way for Scriptural teaching, and plainly
pointing to Christ as the Lamb of God, which " taketh
away the sin of the world," for, "He, his own self bare
our sins."
"'Pray that I may have heavenly wisdom, and the
power of the Spirit, which I feel greatly to need.'
" I have now been over a week in C37prus, and am
thankful for the way which is opening for religious
work. " The only EngUsh service at Larnaka is conducted by
the American Reformed Presbyterians, who have a
medical mission, while Mr. Eaton is the minister, and
has an iron room for church. Wilson Sturge and I
attended the morning service, the sermon being in
English, and translated into Turkish, which the
Armenians who were present, understood.
" In the afternoon, I attended the Sunday school ;
there were 117 present, composed principally oi Ar
menians and Greeks, to whom I had the opportunity
oi speaking through an interpreter.
" The next day I visited the Medical Mission ; over fiity
were present, many suffering with their eyes.
" March, 1899. — Our iriend Wilson Sturge drove me
twice to the Settlement at Pergamos, eleven miles irom
Lamaka. The Dukhobors are certainly a remarkably
well-conducted people oi a peasant class, but few can
read. There has been much sickness amongst them,
105 deaths out of the 1,127 who landed here the end of
last August ; this has discouraged them greatly, so that

148 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
I expect it wiU be best for them to be moved to
Canada. " Wilson Sturge also drove me to Nicosia, the capital
of the island, where I stayed a week, and held several
meetings with the Armenian refugees, a number of whom
had settled there for a time.
' ' On asking an EngHsh gentleman if the British occupa
tion was beneficial to the island, he repHed : — ' Do you
not see these houses with high blank walls opening into
courts or gardens ? Many of them now have glass
windows, — there is gasHght in the streets, some degree
of cleanUness, and Christians can walk about in safety.'
" At the capital, Nicosia, I was only three miles from the
farm colony, Athalassa. Friends had built there a
cottage hospital, which was most useful in time of
sickness, and here, one of the Russian nurses, Anna
Rabetz, sent by Count Tolstoy, was in charge. (The
other nurse, Elisabeth Markoff, was on the Pergamos
farm or colony.)
"It was sad to visit the graveyard, where already
fifty-eight of the Dukhobors were interred. The men
were busy building a stone wall round it.
" I soon got groups of the people round me, with the
Russian nurse (who speaks French) to interpret.
" Some of the boys can read, so we found John x. in
Russian, and then got them to learn ' The good shepherd
giveth his life for the sheep ' in Russian and in English.
They chanted their psalms under the palm trees in the
waUed-in garden, and, after a few words of prayer, aU
joined in learning some EngHsh words and counting
up to twenty.

EGYPT, CYPRUS AND DUKHOBORS. 149
"On Sunday, the Governor, Sir W. Haynes Smith,
invited forty of them to Government House to tea,
with singing and addresses. This is the second of such
gatherings he has had.
"I have visited the hospital here, and also at Kyrenia,
which has given me good opportunities for reUgious
intercourse with the EngUsh nurses. Thus, in various
ways, service is opening for me in this island.
"As there was a room at Hberty in the cottage hospital
at Athalassa, Wilson Sturge was quite willing ior me to
occupy it, and after purchasing such things as were
absolutely needful in the way of furniture, I did so, and
stayed there with Nurse Rabetz till the middle of April,
when the Dukhobors moved to Larnaka, in order to
join the ship for Canada.
" The difficulty as to language was largely overcome, as
both Nurse Rabetz and I could speak French.
" One day I bought a small shoulder of lamb about as
big as my hand for 5d. and tried to cook it over my
spirit lamp ; but did not succeed very well, so cut it in
pieces and sent it down, with some beans, to one oi the
Dukhobor ovens. We used to get four new laid eggs
for a penny, and other things at very different prices
from what we are accustomed to give in England."
After being over a week in my little room at
Athalassa, I wrote the foUowing account of the
Dukhobors and the surroundings:—
" There is a good-sized farmhouse with enclosed yard,
in which several families are accommodated, and on the
hillside smaU houses (much Hke Irish cabins) have been
built for the rest. Just below these is an enclosed

ISO SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
garden of about an acre, with palm, orange and oUve
trees ; except for these I should fancy myself in an Irish
viUage. About 500 Dukhobors are located here. I
am most favourably impressed with them, especiaUy
the women, who are so clean and industrious ; when not
busy in their household affairs, cooking, cleaning,
winnowing the wheat, or grinding, they are busy with
knitting or embroidery. They look very picturesque,
going about in their skirts, bright-coloured petticoats.
and caps like tea-cosys. They always meet us with a
pleasant smile, and frequently send us (the Russian
nurse and myself) presents oi cakes, and various speci
mens oi their food, so that we have vegetarian diet
with a good deal of variety.
"The children are most anxious to learn EngHsh, and
come to us all day long, ' Please a book,' while there
is generaUy a group on the porch spelUng and repeating
texts or teaching one aiiother to count.
" The nurse is busy each morning with various visitors.
Besides the two men who are now in hospital, others
come to her daily — one man with a badly cut eye, a boy
with a scalded foot, and some rheumatic patients.
Then there are tins of condensed milk to send off to the
cabins for the children who are not strong, followed by
visits to some who are stiU suffering from malarial fever,
though we are thankful there are no cases of serious
illness. " The nurse has two or three classes daily to teach
Russian, whUe Captain St. John (who is Uving here also)
has classes of the elder boys for EngHsh. These people
have had no schools, so but few can read ; but we impress

EGYPT, CYPRUS AND DUKHOBORS. 151
upon them the necessity oi learning to speak EngHsh
ii going to Canada, and there is quite a furore ior this
just now.
" It is disappointing that they are not settUng in Cypms ,
but aiter the great mortaUty here it is evident the cUmate
does not suit them, and now that 4,000 oi their people
are in Canada, it would not do to press their staying.
" They seem to me a truly God-iearing people. We find
them in groups chanting psalms as they work, and never
hear a noise or quarrelHng, and with about 300 children
and no school, this is wonderiul.
"The country round here is pretty, and the children
ramble over the hillsides and bring us bunches oi wUd
flowers. " One Sunday Nurse Rabetz and I were up at sunrise
(before 6 a.m.) to attend the Dukhobortsi reUgious
service. We found about fifty men and fifty women
in a semi-circle opposite each other, dressed in their best,
and looking very respectable. I was especiaUy stmck
with their good shoes and boots and knitted stockings.
The men had long fuU-skirted coats, black or navy blue,
several of them lined with fur, and the women huge,
warm jackets and in place of their cosy-shaped caps,
all had red silk handkerchiefs, which were so tied and
stiffened underneath, that they formed a very effective
head-dress, one point hanging over the back of the neck.
" About six or eight women separately recited a psalm,
and each as she finished, made a low bow, on which all
the rest bowed low. Then the second man in the row
shook hands twice, bowing low, with the man at the head.
He then kissed him, again shook hands, and turned and

152 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
bowed to aU the company. He next went and shook
hands three times with each of the other men, and kissed
each ; and, one by one, aU the fifty men came up and
did the same.
"This operation was next gone through by the women ;
after which they chanted psalms together, and aU
prostrated themselves on the ground for a short time.
"The service took over an hour. It was held in the
courtyard of the farm, all standing the whole time.
It seemed to be conducted in a very solemn manner
and religious spirit. We afterwards inquired as to the
significance of the three handshakes and bows, and
were told it was for the Father. Son and Holy Spirit ;
while the fourth bow to the assembled company, was
to ' the Blessed Virgin.'
" This seems to be the only reUgious service on the
Sunday, except that we hear them chanting psalms in
groups. They do not appear to have any Sunday
School or religious teaching for the children, excepting
as they chant in their homes. I asked the nurse how it
was that out of so many, only about a hundred were
present at the service. She said it was very fatiguing
(and I should think so), and that only those in good
health coiUd attend. I calculate that over two hundred
of these low bows were made by each person.
" Later in the day I was driven to Nicosia, and had
a religious service with the Armenians.
" About noon, April 14th, the steamer Lake Superior,
which is to convey the Dukhobors from Cyprus to
Canada, steamed into the harbour. Many of the people
were already at Larnaka, having travelled from

EGYPT, CYPRUS AND DUKHOBORS. 153
Athalassa, twenty-four mUes, during the night. Then
arabas, or native carts, drawn by two oxen, with women,
children, beds and household goods arrived, and were
unloaded in the pubUc square. These made encamp
ments in family groups, under the shade of the eucalyptus
and graceful pepper trees. During the day some of the
Pergamos Dukhobors arrived, and by the next evening
over 1,000 were camped in various groups. They were
allowed to go into the quarantine station, but wisely
preferred the open air.
" The nights were dry and mild, and for three days
the authorities allowed them to stay there, make their
fires and do their cooking on the quay. It was truly
a picturesque sight, ai^d all so orderly.
" On Sunday, Wilson Sturge and I went up to their
sunrise service. About 150 in their ' go-to-meeting '
clothes were assembled in the centre oi the square.
Aiter their hymn -chanting, hand shaking, kisses oi
peace and various bows, all periormed in a most reverent
way, their leaders came iorward, and tendered most
hearty thanks to Wilson Sturge (their ' good grand-
iather,' as they called him), for his kind care and help
during their stay in Cyprus. Then aU prostrated them
selves on the ground and dispersed, while under the
trees, those not present were silently dressing the
children, roUing up beds, etc.
" The people seemed much affected at this, their last
reUgious service in the island, where they would leave so
many of their loved ones in the silent grave. Nearly
all the women, and many of the men were in tears. The
boys, who have learned a Uttle English, gathered round

154 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
me, and we were able to have Bible reading in groups,
three times during the day.
" From noon on Monday till 7 p.m. the boats were busy
conveying the people and their belongings to the ship,
the heavy luggage having been embarked previously,
and on Tuesday at 2 p.m. we watched the ship sail, with
1,030 of the Dukhobors, for their new home in the far
west of Canada.
"We were thankful that they were safely off, for the
hot weather had just set in. Much regret was expressed
that the cUmate of Cypms did not suit them, and all
spoke most highly of their orderly conduct."

CHAPTER XVI.
MACEDONIAN RELIEF WORK.
In the autumn of 1903 Friends formed a ReUef Com
mittee to help the Macedonian refugees who had fled to
Bulgaria from the Turkish atrocities.
I offered to accompany Mrs. King Lewis for a few
weeks, to assist in starting the work. We left London
November nth, travelHng via Vienna, Buda Pesth,
and Belgrade, reached Sofia at n a.m. on Sunday 15th.
There I was very glad to meet Dr. Clarke, who had
previously helped in the efforts to reUeve the Armenian
distress. Aiter seeing the Consul, and making arrange
ments, we went to Bourgas on Tuesday, where we arrived
at five next morning, and iound Mr. Tongkoff and others,
who had been waiting hours at the station to meet us ;
the hearty greetings oi these old iriends were very
welcome. We were rauch irapressed by the thorough way in
which the Bulgarians had organised reUei coramittees
all over the country, with the head office at Sofia.
The plan oi sending the reiugees off into different
viUages was extensively carried out. Each village
had its committee composed of the mayor, the priest,
the teacher, two of the leading people, and two or three
of the refugees.

156 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
A careful Hst was kept of reUef given, clothing, etc.
The great need was beds. We ordered between 5.000
and 6,000 yards of strong canvas or ticking for them ;
the straw being found in the viUages. We also ordered
1,306 yeogans (wadded quilts), some bought at Bourgas,
some made with wool frora the country, and sorae to be
sent from Constantinople.
We were at that time only helping the district of
Bourgas, with its thirty-five viUages. The Govemment
suppUed the refugees with bread and lodging.
On the 27th we sent off two carts drawn by buffaloes,
laden with beds, blankets and clothing to some very
destitute viUages which Mrs. King Lewis had visited.
I had spent the previous two days in going to eight
different places. A viUage of 300 houses was expected
to receive a hundred refugees.
The poor Macedonian women were in the fields har
vesting when the Turks came, and they fled, so had
nothing but the clothes they were wearing. It took
thera from five days to two or three weeks to make their
way to Bulgaria.
Sewing classes for the poor women were organised ;
they made the clothing to send away ; the aged ones
worked with the distaff; spinnmg wool for knitting, at
which they were au fait ; it was quite an interesting
sight to see them seated on the floor of the large haU
lent for their use. The money they earned was such a
help to thera. They listened raost attentively to short
addresses or Bible reading each day.
This visit to Bourgas was specially interesting to me.
There was considerable advance during the seven years,

MACEDONIAN RELIEF WORKS. 157
since I was there before, a park made near the shore,
a pier in process of buUding and a Protestant Church
estabUshed, with good Sunday Schools, under the care
of the American missionary, in place of the only Protes
tant family on ray previous visit.
When this relief work was fairly started. Dr. Clarke
and I left Bourgas for Yambol, where we stayed some
days, as we heard there was much distress there and
in the neighbouring villages. The Protestant pastor
gave us lists of the refugees, naraes and particulars of
the needs of each family. Son,te of his Church members
were asked to raeet us in the schoolroom, and for three
days we worked hard, making and packing parcels of
clothing, bedding, soap, wool and knitting needles, etc. ;
indeed we bought up all available material there.
Then I went on to Sofia ; Judge Economoff and his
wife kindly accompanied me to the shops, where we
purchased calico, dress materials, blankets, etc., and for
sorae days a number of ladies were busy making up
parcels for the viUages.
I left Sofia on December 14th, and was surprised to
see a great crowd at the station, who presented me with
a lovely bouquet tied with long ribbon streamers of
Bulgarian colours.
I reached London on the i8th. Mrs. King Lewis
(with Miss Tonjoroff) stayed till after Christmas ; she
gives an interesting account of this and subsequent
visits, in her book " Critical Times in .Turkey."

CHAPTER XVII.
LATER VISITS TO COLOURED SCHOOLS.
I feel that these Simple Sketches of Christian Work,
especiaUy in connection with the coloured people, wiU
be incomplete without another chapter.
My last visit to their schools and coUeges was early
in igo6 ; this gave me an opportunity of noticing some
changes since my first visit in 1886.
Again I started from Franklin, Va., the home of my
sister, Margaret M. Harris (seven miles from the town),
and whilst visiting the schools and churches in the
neighbourhood, stayed two nights with our dear friend,
Deborah Pretlow. Her brother Walter Ricks,, E.
Jackson Raiford and I went with her to visit a plan
tation purchased by the coloured people for letting out
in smaU farms, and for educational and industrial pur
poses, near Courtland the prmcipal town in the county.
We found my old friend, Maggie Stephens in charge of
the school ; there were quite a nuraber oi students.
Part oi the buUdings and most of the furmture were
their own workmanship. It was reaUy cheering to see
how earnestly they were working. The Secretary,
Mr. Jenkins, had succeeded in getting some financial
help from the white citizens. This effort is in connection
with the Methodists, and will, I trust, be successful ;
158

LATER VISITS TO COLOURED SCHOOLS. 159
the danger is their attempting too much, for they are
such an enthusiastic and hopeful race.
Febmary 6th, I went to the Friends' CoUege, GuUdf ord,
N.C., staying at the pleasant horae of John W. and
Mary C. Woody ; the former is business superintendent
of the Sclater School at Winston-Salem, with about
300 students.
This school had been established since may visit some
years ago, and is managed by a board of white citizens,
with coloured teachers ; it has industrial branches,
such as those for agriculture, dairy work, blacksmith
and wheel-wrighting. There is a large building with
class-rooms, dining room and a chapel, and lodging
accommodation for girls. The chairman of the Board
is Mr. Fries, a Moravian, and one of the leading citizens.
First I had a meeting with the younger chUdren ;
their teacher remembered my visit when a small boy,
fifteen years previously, and told the children about
the watch talk, and the lessons he had learnt from it.
Then in the afternoon we had a large meeting in the
Chapel with the older scholars, and some oi the parents.
When I gave a Gospel Temperance address.
This school is located in a settlement oi coloured people
Hving in their own weU-kept homes, a viUage having
grown up since its estabUshment. The school was
founded by the former coloured teacher of the pubUc
school. The white people soon took hold of the work,
and erected the main buUding. The fruit of this co
operative effort is evident in the good spirit manifest
between the races in the city of Winston-Salem. Instead
of being boycotted, as is my general experience when

1 60 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
visiting coloured churches and schools, we were treated
with the greatest respect by aU. On asking the coloured
waiter at the hotel where I lodged to bring the biU,
he returned saying, " The biU dun been fixed already,"
which I found meant was settled for me. The carriage
was then announced to take us to visit the pubUc coloured
schools, where after some hearty singing, the children,
over three hundred, Ustened most attentively to the
address. From thence I returned to Guildford.
Writing of North CaroUna brings back some echoes
from the past. The drive in a cart one Sunday in a
deep snow through the woods — the young pine-trees
bending down with the weight of snow, so that when
we drove under them, snow came showering down upon
us — and I had to cover ray head with a shawl to keep
at all dry — the poor white horse, that I do not think
would fetch £2 anywhere, and which looked anything
but white, contrasted with the purity of the snow.
Our destination was Ridix Grove Church ; as we drew
near we saw no footmarks ; the driver said, " There
seems to be no one coming, but the coloured people
generaUy Uve near their churches. Uncle Tony Ridix
wiU soon tell them we have corae." As we drove up
a short black woman with a white turban on her head
opened the door of their log house, and gave us a hearty
welcome. The place consisted oi one large room, a
door a iew steps up, and one opposite, no windows.
She soon built up a blazing fire of pinewood in the wide
open fireplace, mud was plastered round the back of it,
but as the chimney was raade of wood, I trembled lest
it should catch fire. There were in the room two large

LATER VISITS TO COLOURED SCHOOLS. i6i
beds with white quilts and pillow-shams on them, and
a few chairs and stools.
Whilst her husband was away " spreading the news "
of our arrival, I had some conversation with Aunt Venus
Ridix. " Were you born a slave ? "
" Oh yes, but praise the Lord I've been twice sot
free ; I was sot free in the spirit first, for I knew I was
a sinner and wanted to get religion ; the Lord heard rae,
but after a while I got cold and was very unhappy ;
I lost my little baby and thought the Lord was angry
with me, so I said, ' You know Lord, I sot out to serve you,
but dropped back, please take right hold of me, and
keep me tight.' Soon I felt in my heart the blessed Jesus
heard me. He said I was to tell others of His love."
Ere long Uncle Tony returned with the neighbours,
in all about twenty-five, and we had a simple Bible talk.
Some were standing, others sitting on the beds. At the
conclusion, it was proposed we should kneel in prayer,
and for anyone to pray who felt drawn to do so. I shall
never forget Aunt Venus' petition : — " Lord Jesus,
we thank thee for the kind friends you have sent us
over the snow, and we pray you to melt the sin out of
our hearts, as you melt the snow before the sun."
Uncle Tony and several others foUowed, and after
more singing, we bid these simple disciples good-bye,
our hearts warmed by their earnestness.
After this I visited High Point, and the capital school
estabUshed by New York Friends for training teachers.
also for industrial training, brick-making, carpentering
etc., as they felt that would be more helpful than
continuing the grants to the day schools which u

1 62 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
B. Franklin Blair had in charge. I paid an interesting
visit to his widow and family, and stayed a few days
with cousins Thomas and Lilias Low [nee Marriage),
visiting schools in their neighbourhood. I also went to
a new work at King's Mountain (of which John W.
Woody told me), estabUshed by Miss Cathcart. One
of the lady teachers met me at the station, four miles
away, and we drove in a buggy uphill and downhill
over the bright red soil of North Carolina, and through
the woods to Lincoln Seminary. Here are gathered
about 250 young men and women boarders, under the
care of white lady teachers, and one gentleman, who has
charge of the boys' dormitories. I think I never saw
such a well-grown set of young people ; nearly aU pure
negroes, mostly about seventeen years of age, or older.
The way this large company marched into the school
rooms and dining-room so quietly that you could not
hear a footfall, astonished me.
One of the teachers took rae to visit Uncle Titus,
who had a house and piece of land on the hill adjoining.
He was a raost interesting old man ; he sang to us a
poem about a slave ; I asked him where he raet with it.
He brought me a tract by Legh Richmond, caUed
" The Negro Servant," one oi the stories in " Annals of
the Poor," and showed rae the poera, adding, " I learnt
to read from my slave raother, who did not know
a word." " How could you learn from her ? "
" Oh, my mother was a cook ; she used to earn a
Uttle money from her mistress by weaving cotton cloth
after her work was done. She wanted to learn some

LATER VISITS TO COLOURED SCHOOLS. 163
hymns, so she would weave twenty-five cents' worth
(one shilUng), to be taught a hymn ; then I would get
the book, and look at the words till I knew them, as she
repeated them over and over. When I found this piece,
as it pictures many of us, I learned it, and sing it."
On my return to Franklin, I went to see Mrs. D. I.
Hayden's new school. She had for eleven years been
headmistress of the State Coloured and Normal Institute,
Petersburg, Virginia, at a salary of $500 (£100), with
board and lodging.
In 1903 she told me she felt the Lord had caUed her
to do something to help her people in Franklin (her own
town), and that she would resign her position at Peters
burg. I advised her to be sure of the Lord's leading
before giving up a good salary, but if she was convinced
it was His call. He would make way for her. A friend
then promised to deed to trustees iour acres of land if
she could put up a school building free of debt at a
cost of not less than )B5oo. She visited the coloured
churches in the district to coUect the raoney, and now,
1906, has a frarae buUding costing $900, and has opened
a school of over fifty students, twenty-five of whom are
boarders from a distance. They pay five shillings a
week for board and lodging, and a shilling a month for
tuition. The boys' ages vary frora sixteen to thirty-five ;
the girls are younger, and are accoramodated in Mrs.
Hayden's own home. The boys lodge in the town.
Mrs. Hayden has no salary, and has given up a small
house near her home, for which she had been receiving
rent, to use it for their raeals, as aU the rooms, including
even the kitchen, are utiUsed for the girls' sleeping

1 64 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
accommodation. This school is for older students
who are anxious f o get a better education than is possible
in the public schools ; it is open eight months in the
year. It is caUed " The Franklin Normal and Industrial
Institute." A grant towards the salary of assistant
teachers has been made from Baltimore. Mrs. D. I.
Hayden and her girls had to walk more than a mUe to
the school raorning and evening, over muddy roads
without any side-walk, so that there was frequently
great danger of losing their shoes.
On a lovely spring morning, AprU loth, 1906,
Robert T. Harris drove me the seven mUes to Franklin.
I always caU this the peach-blossom drive ; the sun was
shining brightly, the beautiful pink-blossomed trees,
which are planted round even the smaU houses here,
showed up weU against the background of dark pines.
We found the students busy at work, and came to the
conclusion that a dormitory for the girls was quite a
necessity. An acre of ground adjoining the school
building was donated, funds received from American
and English Friends, and the building commenced ;
it was ready for use in the foUowing autumn.
Mrs. DeUa I. Hayden writes in January, 1910, " I am
quite encouraged with the general improvement of the
girls ; two who have left are teaching in public schools ;
one is taking a higher course at the State Normal in
Petersburgh ; two of the boys are holding positions as
Insurance Agents, and receiving good salaries."
I was cheered by receiving from J. C. Thomas, oi
Baltimore, who is one oi the Trustees, the foUowing
report : —

LATER VISITS TO COLOURED SCHOOLS, ir.j
November 1st, 1910. — " Our Society for the Educational
Improvement of Coloured People, got Homer J. Coppock,
Principal of Corinth School, to pay a visit of inspection
to D. I. Hayden's school at Franklin. He has made
a very satisfactory report, which has just come to
hand." AprU i6th, 1906, 1 went to PhUadelphia, and spent a
few days there during the Yearly Meeting, and was
kindly entertained by our Friends, Thomas Scattergood
and wife ; he had, from the time of my first visit in 1886,
taken a hearty interest in my mission to the coloured
people. I spent one day most profitably at the splendid
Training and Industrial School for Negroes under the
care of Philadelphia Friends ; everything there is so
thorough it seemed a model institution.
Notwithstanding the above-mentioned efforts and
others for the uplifting of the people, I am sorry to have
seen sorae backward movements, especiaUy in Virginia,
with regard to the treatment of the negroes. They are
not now aUowed to ride in the same railway cars as the
whites, or to frequent the same waiting-rooms ; and
in this state 126,000 have been disfranchised (only
21,000 having votes), being deprived of the vote on the
property and education qualifications.
It troubled me to read that even in Washington, at
the World's Sunday School Convention in May. 1910,
the Coloured Sunday Schools and workers were pro
hibited from taking part in the demonstrstion, because
of their colour.
I was, however, glad to see that this aroused a
strong protest frora Englishmen against this deplorable

i66 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
example of narrow racial prejudice in a reUgious
gathering. There is on foot a movement to allocate for their
education oiUy the amount paid by thera in taxes, thus
endeavouring to keep them in ignorance, to prevent
them frora takrag their position as citizens.
Superintendent Coon, of Winston-Salem, asks in the
Christian Educator, January, 1910, " Is the negro public
school in the South a burden on the white taxpayer ? "
Then he states by facts and figures that in three States
at least, Georgia, Virginia and North Carolina, the
negroes, in the aggregate, paid to the pubHc fund more
than they received in the separate schools aUotted to
their chUdren. . . He concludes his article as foUows :
" I do not beUeve that any race can hope for the blessing
of Heaven on its own chUdren whUe it begrudges Ught
and efficiency for others."
So anxious are the coloured people to avaU themselves
of the best schools open to thera, that many of the
younger ones work and save their wages to enable them
to attend such establishments as Sclater at Winston-
Salem, Hampton and Tuskegee (the latter founded by
Booker T. Washington in Alabama), for the public
schools in raany country places are only open frora three
to five months in the year.
In considering the state of these freed people in whom
I have for years been deeply interested, I have been glad
to read other articles written this year, and from which
I 'give sorae extracts. The first is frora the pen of
P. J. Maveety. He says : —
" I have now been studying the negro and his outlook

LATER VISITS TO COLOURED SCHOOLS. 167
at close range ior nearly three years. . . There are
a iew things that have come to me, and are borne in
upon me with almost axiomatic iorce. The black man
is surely gaining in almost every direction — industriaUy,
intellectually and moraUy. . . I am amazed that
these people are but a single generation from ignorant
and abject slavery. . . When the question is put to
me. Can the black man take on our civiUsation ? Why,
he has already taken it on in its entirety. I know of
nothing he has left out. He has even taken on, I am
sorry to say, its shams and its vices. . . Give him
a little more time. Help him to those things that have
already demonstrated their abUity to lift hira up and
put him on his feet.
" Encourage the good and wise leaders of the race,
untU every vUlage in the South shaU have examples
and instructors through whom the masses of the race
shaU be brought to a self-respecting and independent
Christian manhood."
Dr. J. D. Hammond writes of the negro : —
" One of the first duties we owe to the negro is to give
sane Christian consideration to his case. The fact that
he is here is no fault of his ; and if he has faUed to
come up to our expectations, it is no more than a large
percentage of our native white population has done.
" It is not right to judge any race by the conduct of
its worst members. . . It is of the utmost import
ance to our civilisation that the large body of negroes
who are to be permanently a part of our population
should advance as iar as possible in the scale oi moral
and social excellence. . . Our peace and prosperity.

i68 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
our vay civiUsation, are materiaUy affected by our
attitude towards this part oi our population. . Rightly
cared ior, the negro is likely to yield us better returns
for what we invest in his moral and social upliit than
any other oi the races on whom we expend iar more of
our sympathy emd money.

CHAPTER XVIII.
THE SHOREDITCH CHRISTIAN MISSION.
I FEEL that these simple sketches will be incomplete
without reference to the Shoreditch Christian Mission,
which was commenced in 1865, and continued till
Christmas 1908. During these forty-three years great
changes took place, as the chapter on Ragged Schools
shows. When these poor children were handed over
to the London School Board in 1871, the Sunday School,
Mothers' Meetings and general mission work, were still
carried on ; raost of the Sunday School teachers were
old scholars, though some Friends assisted in super
intending the work ; araongst these were Samuel
Baker and Charles Gaj^ord, both of whom afterwards
went as missionaries to India. Indeed it is interesting
to reraeraber how many who helped in various ways,
afterwards engaged in foreign mission work. Eraraa
FothergiU, now Mrs. Elbert Clark, was one of these;
she and her husband are stiU working in South Africa.
The work of the Mission owes much to the early helpers
and subscribers. Alfred W. Bennett, Joseph Fry
(son of EUzabeth Fry), and Robert Barclay were on the
first committee.
Later on at a gathering of Mrs. Ranyard's Bible
Women at Ford Barclay's, Joseph Fry introduced me
169

170 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
to Samuel Gumey Sheppard; he carae soon after to
take part in the Sunday evening meeting at Motley
Street where, I beUeve, he first gave a Gospel address.
From this time till his Home caU, he was most hearty
in his support of the work. Our people wiU ever look
back with pleasure to the summer excursions when Mr,
and Mrs. Robert Barclay or Mr. and Mrs. Sheppard
asked them to spend the day in their beautiful grounds,
providing them with a substantial dinner and tea, and
bouquets of flowers on leaving.
After my visit to the Friends' Adult Schools in
Birmingham in 1868, we invited the husbands and
fathers connected with the mission to tea at Motley
Street, and started an Adult School for men, in which
our chief helper was Charles Gayford. This effort was
greatly blessed, and several who attended are earnest
workers in other missions at the present time.
After Charles Gayford left for India, I felt weighed
down with the responsibiUty of these classes, there
seemed no one to take his place ; but I was greatly
cheered on one occasion when Henry Stanley Newman
was present at the week-night Bible Class, and gave a
short address to the Christians on the words, " Son,
thou art ever with me, and all that I have is thine "
(Luke XV. 31). His words came with so much freshness
and power to my own heart, that they have been a help
and strength to me ever since.
About this tirae Bessie Green came to London, and
assisted in the meetings. We had now quite a number
attending, whom we beUeved were decided Christians,
though we felt they needed building up and strength-

SHOREDITCH CHRISTIAN MISSION. 171
ening in the faith ; for these, a special meeting was held,
and it was proposed to form a simple Christian member
ship. I consulted J. Bevan Braithwaite, sen., Richard AUen,
and Jonathan Grubb in 1869. I remember reading some
of the applications for membership to our friend, J. B. B.,
when he just put his hands together and said, " Oh,
I wish we had such appUcations at Westminster."
The proposed membership was estabUshed, and the
following is an account of one oi the meetings held three
years later : —
"The twelith Quarterly Meeting oi the members of
the Shoreditch Christian Mission was held at New
Inn Street Schoolroom, Shoreditch, October, 1872,
and was a time of particular interest.- Tea was at
six o'clock, of which fifty of the members partook ;
there are in all seventy-four, but some were unable
to attend. It was a very cheerful and happy time, the
intercourse this social meal gives is very valuable.
When the tables were cleared the meeting commenced
by singing a hymn, and then Samuel Gurney Sheppard
offered prayer for a blessing on the assembled company.
The Clerk read the minutes of last time, and report
was made that the monthly prayer meetings had been
held regularly, and two appUcations for membership
were received in August, five in September, and five in
October ; inquiry had been made relative to the
character of the appUcants, they had been visited on the
subject, and as nothing appeared to prevent their being
received, they were present to have their cards of
membership. Mary Anne Marriage then read the

172 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
applications, which were in most cases a simple declara
tion oi their iaith in Christ, and desires to serve Him ;
and aiter each note, the appHcant came up to the
table to receive his card. We wiU just give a glance at
one or two oi those who were received. The first was
an old lady oi seventy-six, who had attended the
meetings ior about three years, and who seemed so
respectable, and to lead such a consistent Hie, that she
had several times been invited to become a meraber,
but had always said she was not worthy — ^in iact, she
' could not read her title clear to raansions in the
skies ' ; but a iew months ago, when laid on a bed oi
sickness, she was able to make an entire trust oi herseli
to her Saviour, and sent in the ioUowing note : —
" Dear friends, — I know I am a sinner, but I know
Jesus died for rae, and I feel I shoiUd Hke to join the
Mission here, though I'm only a poor sinner, but I love
Jesus.'' " It was with a bright smiling face this aged woman
came up for her card.
"The next who came was a fine-looking man about
forty years of age, he had formerly been servant to
General Scarlett in the Crimea, but was sadly given
to drink, and betting, etc., had his house sold up,
and was often in great distress ; the early part of this
year he came to the British Workman, signed the pledge,
attended the raen's Sunday morning classes, and after
some months of seeking, came to us with a bright face,
saying he now felt that Christ was his Saviour, that he
had found what he wanted. The following is his
appUcation : —

SHOREDITCH CHRISTIAN MISSION. 173
' " To the Shoreditch Christian Mission :—
" ' Dear friends, — Having a strong desire to Uve in
love and fear of the Lord, and in His Son Jesus Christ,
and feUowship with aU good Christians, I beg to be
accepted as a member of your Mission, hoping that I
may be strengthened in my desire to love and serve
God in all things.'
"After he knew the joy of feeling that his sins were
pardoned, his great anxiety was for his wife, only he said,
' she is of a different reUgion to me — she is a CathoUc —
but I want to see her converted. I've had no reUgion,
but she's always been a good sort of woman.' He
was advised to pray for her, and tell her how the Lord
had taught him, and only a fortnight after, she came
to say, ' such a rest and peace has come into my soul
that I had no idea of — I have felt so restless of late,
but seeing John earnestly serving God, I felt there
must not be two paths from one door, and the other
night, when he was away at the British Workman, and
the children out, I went down on my knees, and asked
God to receive me just as I was, I would take Him
at His word, for I wanted to be saved.' A few
weeks after, the following note was sent to the
monthly meeting : —
" ' Dear Christian friends, — ^Having an earnest wish to
lead a more holy and Christian life, I beg to becorae a
raeraber oi your Mission, hoping thereby to becorae a
more earnest Christian, and to be so strengthened by
the united prayers oi all Christian iriends, that I may
fearlessly tread in the way I ieel the Lord in His great
mercy has opened for me."

174 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRA VEL.
" Another, who was very gladly welcomed amongst us,
was a very coarse looking woman who has attended
the meetings at tiraes for several years, and a few months
back said, ' I wish I had never come, I'm so wretched.
I could do anything at one time, and now if I let out I
feel so miserable, I can't say or do things I once could,
and I can't help thinking about God now.' The
remark was raade to her, ' You have just enough religion
to raake you raiserable, butif you had raore, you would
be very happy — you have enough to feel when you do
wrong, but if you will only give your whole self to Christ,
you will feel that He has pardoned all your sins, and He
will give you His spirit to help you to serve Him.'
This made a deep impression, and one day she came to
say, ' I have prayed earnestly to God, and feel happier,
but yet I am afraid to think he can have pardoned such
a wretched woman as I have been.' Feeling that it was
safest to let the words oi the Holy Scriptures speak
rather than man's word, the fiity-third chapter oi Isaiah
was read, and a iew other texts speaking oi Christ as the
sin-bearer ; the changed expression oi the woman's face
told of the peace within. All went on pretty weU for
some weeks, till a home quarrel damped all the joy, and
she came to ask if there was a second pardon, ior she
felt she had sinned, and in her passion used words of
which she sorely repented. ' Oh, it grieves me so to
think I should have given way after ray Saviour's love
to rae, and I had felt so happy.' Her note is as foUows :
" ' I wish to become a member of your Christian Mission,
I feel it will be a great help to me, for I wish to be a trae
foUower of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ. " Come

SHOREDITCH CHRISTIAN MISSION. 175
unto Me all ye that labour, and are heavy laden, and
I will give you rest.' "
" The foUowing was read frora a young man who
has a coffee stall in the street, and goes out at
four o'clock in the morning (Uke Mr. Daniels in
' Jessica's First Prayer ' ) to sell to the men as they
go to work.
" ' Dear friends, — I have long felt the necessity of
being a real Christian, especially of late, and I trust I
can say my sins are obUterated through the redempton
that is in Christ Jesus' blood. I sincerely hope I do not
err in coming to this conclusion ; be it as it may, I
feel that all things are as new to me, and I should like
to become a member of the Mission, believing it will be
a help to me to join with those who are serving the Lord.
Wishing to acknowledge my Saviour before men, I now
apply for membership.'
Another appUcation was from a widow : —
" ' Dear friends, — ^It is some time now since I first came
to the meetings — they have been a great help to me.
I would Uke to become a member of your Mission,
knowing, at the same time being a member will be useless
to the saving of my soul, unless I am one in Christ Jesus,
saved by His precious blood.'
"About nine months ago, feeUng we had so few of the
elder lads, and yoimg men attending the Sunday Schools,
about twenty were invited to tea. Among them was
WiUiam  , he was especially asked, as his mother was
a widow, and he being the eldest son, lorded it over the
rest so that there was constant quarrelling in the house,
one of the teachers thought if she could only influence

176 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
him for good, it would be a great blessing. He was a
weU-educated lad, and a beautiful writer ; so when a
class was established for these boys, William was asked
to help set the copies, and from this time attraided
meetings and classes when able. His altered behaviour
at home was listened to with joy, his voice was heard
in prayer for strength in walk in the right way, and the
following application made, to be received as a member
of the Mission, —
" ' Dear friends, — ^FeeUng in ray heart that I have at
length let my Saviour enter, at which He has long been
knocking, and beUeving that He died so that I might
live, and knowing that He is a precious Saviour and
Comforter to those who will accept of Him ; wishing
to join withsomeof His foUowers, I should Uke to become
a raeniber of the Mission, feeling it will strengthen me,
and be a protection to me to join with you. It was
Miss L., who was the instrument in the hands oi God
in saving my soul, giving me a double motive ior wishing
to join the Mission. Wishing God speed to your work,
which surely has been blessed, I am yours truly,  '
" But we must return to the meetings. Reading the
notes, and receiving the new merabers, took considerable
tirae. The old merabers handed in their cards to have
the date oi the Quarterly Meeting fiUed in, a searching
address was given by Mr. Sheppard on the 139th Psalm,
and hymn sung, and then Charles Gayford spoke in a
feeUng way of the comfort these meetings had been to
him, and that when iar away engaged in Mission work
in India, he should oiten think oi the tiraes of spiritual
coraraunion he had been favoured with while amongst

SHOREDITCH CHRISTIAN MISSION. 177
US ; and afterwards the voice of prayer and praise was
heard frora many present.
"Two raerabers were nominated to select the texts
for the members' cards ior the ensuing year, and a col
lection was made ior deiraying the expenses oi the tea,
and with ieeUngs of deep gratitude to our Heavenly
Father for His love, the company separated about
ten o'clock."
After 1886 1 was a good deal abroad, especiaUy during
the winter raonths. My sister Margaret (now Mrs.
R. T. Harris), resided at our raission house, 24, Charles
Square, and later on Annie S. CatUn (daughter of Wm.
CatUn, of Cow Cross Mission), was there as housekeeper,
secretary, etc. The meetings kept up weU, except on
Sunday evenings when theatre services, etc., were held
in the neighbourhood.
As the BunhiU Memorial Buildings were pretty near,
some of our Adult School members joined classes there.
The beautiful Leysian Mission was estabUshed within
five minutes walk of Charles Square, Mr. John Burt had
a mission in Hoxton Square, connected with the Ragged
School Mission. All this, combined with my increasing
age, led me to ieel that the time had come to transier
our people to these or other missions.
It was a sad time ior all ; the younger Sunday School
children were marched round to the Mission in
Vincent Street off City Road ; others draited into
neighbouring Bible Classes ; the mothers settled into
Mothers' Meetings as was most convenient to them, and
on December 24th, 1908, the Mission House was closed.
In giving up the house, 24, Charles Square; I not only 12

178 SKETCHES OF WORK AND TRAVEL.
felt parting with those in whose best welfare we had for
many years been deeply interested, but have since
reaHsed the miss of not having a London house where
we could see our missionary friends, both Home and
Foreign, or have the sweet Bible Readings and Con
ferences with Sunday-school teachers and Christian
workers. The varied experiences narrated in these Simple
Sketches have led me through rough and difficult paths.
but the joy and privilege of some little service for
the Lord and humanity, have far outweighed any
discomforts. " Then let us, while we can, perform our duty
With loving earnest hearts throughout the year :
For who can tell if we again shall ever
Be asked by works to serve our Saviour here ? "

HEADtEY BROTHERS, BISHOrSGAIE, E,C. ; AND ASUFORD, KENT.

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