1 1 n fe it Ti 11 '1 |i^/ ^ 1 ST. ILLTYD'S CHUECH, PBMBEEY. Printed at *• The Cambrian " Office, 58, Wind Street, Swansea, ST. ILLTYD'S CHURCH, PEMBREY: ITS HISTORY AND ITS ARCHITECTURE. EDWAED ROBERTS, SWANSEA, AND H. A. PERTWEE, BVBBTPOBT. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. SWANSEA: C. E. WILLING, "CAMBRIAN" NEWSPAPER OFFICE. 1898. All rights reserved. TO GERARD B. BLKINGTON, Esq., DAN-Y-GRAIG, BURRYPORT, AS THE LOCAL REPRESENTATIVE OF THE BLKINGTON FAMILY, THE PATRONS OP THE LIVING OF PEMBREY, AND THE DONORS OF ST. MARY'S CHURCH, BURRYPORT, THIS LITTLE -WORK IS, BY PEEMISSION, RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. PREFACE. BY THE EDITOR, "THE CAMBRIAN.' The history of our Old Churches forms an interesting and significant part of our national history. The one is largely dependent on the other. In early times the Ecclesi astical and Civil authorities •went hand in hand together ; adversity or prosperity some^what similarly affected both. Thus the history of a parish church forms a national history in miniature, and the recognition and admission of that fact make the neglect of old church history all the more inex plicable. This ¦work is therefore all the more ¦welcome. We hope it is the forerunner of many of its kind. " St. Illtyd's Church, Pembrey ; its History and Architecture," is brimful of ecclesiastical, architectural, archasological, historical and antiquarian interest. The Authors — Mr. Ed-ward Roberts, Swansea, and Mr. H. A. Pert^wee, Burryport — have done their -work exceedingly well. They have spared no effort to make it complete and accurate. Mr. Edward Roberts is well-known in South Wales. He has long been a valued and active member of the Swansea Scientific Society. His instructive and original contributions on Welsh Place-names — the great bulk of which have appeared in The Cambrian — have excited considerable interest and discussion. He has com piled the history of St. Illtyd's Church with much ingenuity. viii. Preface. In the arduous work of compilation Mr. Roberts has had the advantage of the splendid Reference Libraries at the Royal Institution of South Wales and the Swansea Public Library. These references are as numerous as they are varied, but Mr. Roberts has not by any means over burdened this work, a fact which bears testimony to his thoroughness and patience. The book is copiously and beautifully illustrated, from drawings made by Mr. H. A. Pert wee. The history of St. Illtyd's Church was first undertaken by the late Mr. Conway Meredith — a gentleman whose enthusiasm in scientific research was unbounded, and who was specially fitted for such a task. Death, however, intervened, and the work was, we believe, bequeathed to Mr. Pertwee. Hence Mr. Pertwee's valuable and welcome co-operation with Mr. Ed. Roberts. One has only to read the book to discover that its compilation and illustration have been " labours of love" both to Mr. Roberts and to Mr. Pertwee. Their sole ambition has been to form the mediums for rescuing and preserving for future generations the history of the ancient Parish Church of Pembrey, which has not, hitherto, been given its proper place in ecclesiastical and national history. The Swansea Scientific Society, under whose auspices this history has been prepared, are to be congratulated upon this work. It is one, albeit a valuable, instance of the need and the usefulness of the Society. In connection with the history of St. Illtyd's Chuich, Mr. Edward Roberts has received valuable information and encouraging advice from Col. Morgan (President of the Swansea Scientific Society), Mr. C, H. Glascodine, Preface. ix. Mr. A. Stepney Guleston, Derwydd, Carmarthen ; Mr. J. P. Owen, London ; Rev. J. E. Oliphant, London (a friend of Mr. Pertwee) ; Mr. Lleufer Thomas, barrister- at-law, etc. Mr. R. G. Cawker, Swansea, makes a very timely suggestion, which we hope will be acted upon, in the following letter : — To the Editor of " The Cambkian." Deab Sib, — I read -with much pleasure in this week's Carnbrian the very interesting paper on the History and Architecture of St. Illtyd's Church, Pembrey, which was read at a recent meeting of the local Scientific Society, not that I am especially interested in this particular church or parish, but as having taken an interest in the subject of the history of Ancient Parish Churches generally. It may be conceded that much that is of interest in our country parishes is enshrined in the Parish Church and its sacred enclosure. "How to write the History of a Parish," is a little work referred to by the Eev. Augustus Jessopp, D.D., whose name is well known in connection with the subject. To those who have the required time and opportunity, the work of collecting and carefully recording all facts ot historical interest relating to their parish and its church is of considerable interest and importance, and deserves attention and encouragement by the local Scientific and Antiquarian Society. — Yours faithfully, E. G. Ca^wkeb. August 31, 1898. We have perused the work referred to by Mr. Cawker. It contains most useful and valuable information and advice, which we hope the Vicars of the parishes through out England and Wales will take to heart. JAS. BROWN, Cambkian Office, S^wansea, Sept. 21. 1898 THE VISIT TO PEMBREY. On Saturday, August 20th, under the auspices of the Swansea Scientific Society, an excursion was made to Burry Port and Pembrey. The weather was very fine, and a most enjoyable and profitable afternoon was spent. A fairly good number of members and friends of the Society turned up, including Col. Morgan, Mr. C. H. Glascodine. Mr. A. Moffat, Mr. E. Roberts, Miss "Winifred Roberts, Mrs. Norton, Miss Norton, Eev. E. W. Bolney, Col. Trick, Capt. Hammond, Mr. Evan Lewis (Curator Eoyal Institution), Mr. Morris (solicitor), Mr. J. Brown, editor of The Camirian, &c. Upon arriving at Burry Port the party proceeded to Pembrey Church where they were met and welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. Gerard Elkington, Eev. H. Evans (the Vicar), Mr. and Mrs. Pertwee, Mrs. Russell (Hali- ford-on-Thames), Mr. and Mrs. Hall (Uganda), Mr. Thomas (the Pwll), Kev. John Jenkins (curate), Mr. H. Court, Mr. and Mrs. Glutton, Mr. Owen Thomas, Dr. Owen Williams, Eev. John Davies, Mr. lonides, Mr. Edward Evans, and others. The party at once proceeded to St. lUtyd's Church, Pembrey, Col. Morgan, Mr. Pertwee and Mr. E. Eoberts acting as guides. After examining the interior of the Church, where a number of extremely in teresting drawings, the work of Mr. H. A. Pertwee, Pen Bryn, Burry Port, were inspected. In the church-yard are many old and dilapidated grave-stones, many of which require cleaning. In a comer is a stone, " Sacred to the memory of Lieut.-Colonel Coquelin, aged 45, arid Adeline, his daughter, aged 12 years, both natives of France, who lost their lives by the wreck of the ship, Jeune Emma, on Cefn Sidan sand (Burry Port), as they were returning home from Martinique, in the West Indies, and were interred in this ground on the 25th November, 1828. The above named lady was a niece to Josephine, consort of the renowned individual. Napoleon Bonaparte." The party subsequently assembled under the shelter of a fine. xii. The Visit to Pembrey. large old tree — an everlasting green oak — in front of the church tower, to listen to the paper on " St. Illtyd's Church, Pembrey, its History and its Architecture," by Mr. E. Eoberts, Swansea, and Mr. H. A. Pertwee, Burry Port. Mr. Eoberts read the paper, which was listened to with deep attention by all. It was followed by a line of discussion, in the course of which Colonel Morgan, Mr. C. H. Glascodine and the Eev. H. Evans (the Vicar) referred to the instructive character of the paper, and to the labour aud thought that must have been devoted to it. A vote of thanks was accorded to Mr. Eoberts and Mr. Pertwee. The ancient Court House was then visited, and at about 6 o'clock tea was partaken of at the Neptune Hotel, Buiry Port. The excursion was a complete success, thanks to the kind co-operation of the Society's Burry Port friends. CONTENTS. DedioationPrefaceThe Visit to Pembrey ContentsList of Illustrations Introductory ... Geographical Position Origin of the Name Isolation of Pembrey in History Foundation of the Church Form of Service in Early British Churches History of the Church after the Norman Conquest Architecture of the Church The Tower The Aisle The Lady Chapel The Nave The Chancel ... The Porch The BeUs Heraldic Carvings South-East Nave Window Arms of Butler ... Arms of Basset of Beanpre Arms of Sir John Monnington, Kt. Emblems of the Passion Arms of the Beauforts ... Arms of the Plantagenets Crest of the Beauforts ... Arms of Sir William de Londres Arms of Sir William Fleming Burials and Monumental Stones Xl xiii XV 1 223 10 1417 181819 21 22272728 2930 3131 31 3233 3334 Contents. page Parish Eegister 37 Llandnrry Chapel-of-Ease 38 St. Mary's Church, Burryport ... 41 The Vicarage 42 Patronage of the Living 42 General Notes of the Parish and Notable Events therein. 43 Duke of Beaufort 44 Niece ot Empress Josephine 44 Oliver Cromwell 47 The Court 47 The Old Font 48 Tumulus 49 Burryport 50 Glain Nadredd or Adderstone .. 51 Pembrey Fair 52 Remains ef an Old Foundation in Churchyard ... 53 ILLUSTRATIONS. Pemebet Paeish Chuboh (South Side) Plan op Pembeet Paeish Church West Elevation ... Aisle AND Ladt Chapel Nave and Chancel Elevation— ViE^w of Arches POECHBell Cot ... Pembrey Paeish Chuech (North Side) South Windov? Hebalds Ll.ANDUBBT ChAPEL-OF-EaSB St. Mart's Chuech, Bubetpoet The Court ... Dan-t-Geaig — AcHDDU Cottage Old Font at the Couet ... PAGE xvi 11 1517 19 20 21 22 23 27 28-33 394145 47 49 ST. ILLTYD'S CHURCH, PEMBREY. Its History and its Architecture. INTEODUCTION. The subject of this paper is of a very interesting character, and it is the more so on account of so few public references having been made to it and so little written upon it in the past. Indeed, it appears to have altogether escaped the attention of the " Cambrian ArehtEological Society " and other learned societies who have dealt so largely and so ably upon subjects of a kindred nature. At all events, we have not been able to discover that the history of Pembr6 Church has ever been written and published, and the present address is only an attempt to deal with its history and its architecture so far as time and historical resources at command have been available. No doubt many shortcomings will be found in it, but there is one element of encouragement in the undertaking, that how ever imperfect the treatment of this subject may be, the attempt we make may possibly form the ground-work of more exhaustive research by other and abler writers, who may wish to enter upon further investigation on the subject. The work of compiling this paper has involved a considerable amount of labour, as a great number of authorities had to be con sulted, in order to obtain the best possible information on the subject which has been reduced to such a readable form as to be not, we hope, uninteresting. A systematic method of division of the St, Illtyd's Church, Pembrey : subject into various headings has also been adopted, each of them fairly complete in the treatment of its subject, such as Geographical position, Origin of the name. Foundation of the Church, &c., &c., which is thought to be more helpful in enabling the reader to more readily grasp its subject matrtier. GeOgrapMcal Position,— The parish church of Pembrey is situated in the middle of the village of Pembrey, which is in the south-eastern division of the county of Carmarthen. The village lies about mid-way between Kidwelly on the west of it, and Llanelly on the east. It is in the Hundred of Kidwelly; in the Petty Sessional Division, Poor Law Union and County Court District of Llanelly ; in the Eural Deanery of Kidwelly and Archdeaconry of Carmarthen, all within the diocese of St. David's. The village is most picturesquely situated at the base of the promontory of Pembrey which terminates immediately above it and from which the village derives its name. The view from the top of Pembrey Hill is a magnificent one, as it embraces the Peninsula of Gower, Carmarthen Bay and the Bristol Channel, as well as some very extensive home views, particularly the wide valley through which the Gwendraeth Vawr river flows ; the whole of the town of Kidwelly with its magnificent old castle and its surroundings, and above which, and to the north of it, a fine view can be had of Mynydd-y-Gareg. Origin of the Name.— As stated above, the village of Pembrey takes its name from that of the promontory immediately over looking it. The name is a very ancient one, as it appears in Liber Landavensis in 1066 as " Inpennbre," that is, in Penbre ; in 1291 in Taxatio Pope Nicholas it is spelt " Pembrey " ; in the Inquisitiones post mortem Edward 1st, 1282-3, it is spelt " Penbrey " ; in 1540 Leland adopts " Penbre,'' its correct Welsh form ; in Queen Elizabeth's time, 1583, it is spelt " Pembrey," its present form ; in 1804 Malkin says " Penbree Hill." The meaning of the name is easily ascertained by reducing it to its root words, namely. Pen and Its History and its Architecture. Bre. Pen means the head or terminating point of anything, and it is here used in the same sense as head in English in such names as Worm's Head, Mumbles Head, &c., and it designates the head or ending point of the hill terminating immediately over the village. Bre (pronounced Bray) is now obsolete in the Welsh language, but it had an analagous signification to Bryn, a hill ; both Bre and Bryn being identical in their meaning, so that Penbre and Penbryn are synonymous. The form Pembrey seems to have appeared in writjng as such in the time of Queen Elizabeth, 1583, and this form is probably due to the infiuence of the English language upon the Welsh language — an influence, according to Dr. John Rhys, of Oxford, which produced a marked change on Welsh orthography at this time. But in addition to this, we cannot overlook another, and quite as powerful an influence at work at the time, namely, the peculiarities of the Demetian dialect, the infiuence of which is also observable in other local names, as in Caepompren for Cae-pont-pren. Isolation of Pembrey in History.— It is a somewhat notable fact that so little has been mentioned of Pembrey in history, which may be due to a great extent to its isolated position from the old main line of communication between Llanelly on the east and Kidwelly on the west, which passed over by Trimsaran, about four or five miles to the east of Pembrey. This isolated position continued until the year 1850, when the road from Pembrey to Kidwelly was constructed, as attested by this date being out on the bridge crossing the Gwendraeth river near Kidwelly. In 1804 Malkin, in his " Scenery and Antiquities of South Wales," describes his journey from Kidwelly to Llanelly as follows :— " The road from Kidwelly to Llanelly is over the marshy flat through which the canal is carried to the coal works. After crossing the Spuddre bridge we begin to mount the Penbree Hill, from which elevation the surrounding scenery is viewed to the greatest possible advantage." It is evident the lower road had not then been constructed from Pembrey to Kidwelly, otherwise Malkin would have naturally adopted it in preference to the more difficult one over the Trimsarran Hill, called by him " Pembree Hill." St. Illtyd's Church, Pembrev : Foundation of the Church.— The foundation of Pembrey Church is, no doubt, a very ancient one — that is, a foundation most probably of the fifth to the eighth century, during which period a large number of our parish churches were founded, especially those which have the vocable Llan prefixed to their names ; but during this period the history of the diocese of St. David's was well nigh a blank, owing probably to the disturbed state of the country subsequent to the Cunedda Conquest towards the end of the fifth century. It is a noteworthy fact that no trace of a genuine native church is to be found in the church dedications as existing prior to the Cunedda period, and it may be added that it is also a well-known historical fact that the earliest church founders of whom we have any record were of Cumbrian, Armorican or Irish extraction, and for the most part subsequent to the Cunedda revolution. The church of Pembrey is dedicated to St. lUtyd, an Armorican saint of the flfth century, who is said to have lived somewhere between about 450 to 480. There is no direct historical authority for saying that he personally founded the church ; but if this is uncon firmed by historical evidence, there is, we think, not the slightest doubt of the dedication of the church to his name. Eees in his " Welsh Saints" says : " The name of lUtyd is associated with several Churches, and he may be considered the founder of the Church of Pembre." From this extract it would appear as if he had personally founded it; but Kees qualifies his statement by saying that he may be considered as having done so. However this may be, its foundation by, or dedication to, St. Illtyd is an admitted fact, and entitles it to be an ancient British Church, and is a testimony to the infiuence he exercised in the British Church in his lifetime and afterwards. The earliest record of this church, so far as we have been able to find, is in the following extract from the Liber Landavensis or the Book of Lland&ff, viz. : — " When King William conquered England (in 1066) Bishop Herwald held the Bishoprick of the church at Llandaff, from the mouth of the Wye to the river Towy, with all episcopal dignity and subjection. In which time Cadwgan, son of King Meurig, reigned in Glamorgan as far as the ford of the Trunk on Towy. In whose time (that is Bishop Herwald) Cadfor, son of Mor, and after him Gwrhi, son of Sili, a doctor of Its History and iis Architecture. Llanilltyd, and after him Sedd, officiated as priests at Penbr^ — which aforesaid church (amongst others) Bishop Herwald consecrated, and he also ordained the aforesaid Clergy." Here "we have the names of three priests who officiated at Penbre Church prior to, and at the time of, the Norman Conquest in 1 066 — Cadfor, Gwrhi and Sedd. Gwrhi was the son of Sili, who was a doctor of Llanilltyd — that is, a learned member of, presumably, the Monastery established by St. Hltyd at Llanilltyd Fawr (Llantwit Major) on the south coast of Glamorgan, which had been up to this period in a most fiourishing condition as an establishment for the education of Priests to administer to, and instruct the people of the surrounding district, far and near, in matters of religion. The deduction which we may naturally draw from the fact as attested by the probable appointment of Gwrhi by the Monastic establishment at Llanilltyd Fawr to minister at PenbrS is that the Monastic body may have held itself responsible for the due performance of religious duties by members of its own body in continuation of a practice, probably initiated by St. Illtyd himself, the founder of the church, for the Monks were at this time the pioneers of civilisation in the remoter parts of the country. The consecration of PenbrS Church, at this period, by Bishop Herwald, and his ordination of its priests, Cadfor, Gwrhi and Sedd, naturally suggest the important question whether this consecration was an original consecration or a supersession of an earlier one ; but this point is somewhat difficult to decide. We have, however, instances of original consecrations having been superseded by later ones as in the case of Llangyfelach and Llangadoc, aud it is not unreasonable to assume that Bishop Herwald's consecration may have been a supersessory one, occasioned, not improbably, by the rebuilding of the church into a more substantial structure. One thing is certain, the church at Pembrey was consecrated or re-consecrated in the year 1066, and the probabilities are that it had existed a long time prior to that date. The priests receiving episcopal ordination then, seemed to indi cate that they were missionaries from some Monastic establishment, with authority from the head of it, to perform religious functions, but Bishop Herwald may have thought it necessary to exercise his episcopal authority and place these ministers in subjection to his episcopate. 6 St. Illtyd's Church, Pembrey : Form of Service in Early British Churches — It is a very interesting subject to examine and ascertain what may have been the character of the services held in the early British churches ; but some light is thrown on this subject by Gildas, who wrote about 547, in which he speaks of " Ecclesiastical Melodies, of the tuneful voices of the young, of purple palls on the altar, and of several altars in a single church " — from which it may be concluded that the services were rather elaborate in their character. This form of service and ritual probably continued until the eleventh century, when it was displaced by the more cultivated ritualism and monasticism introduced by the Normans about this period, and which continued more or less until the time of Queen Elizabeth. History of the Church after the Norman Conquest.— The long territorial dispute (into the merits of which it is not necessary to enter here) between the diocese of Llandaff, which extended at this time westward as far as the Eiver Towy, and the diocese of St. David's, especially as touching the commotes of Gower, Carnivyllion and Kidwelly, which had continued for upwards of 180 years, was at last brought to a close about the year 1136, under the vigorous action of the first Norman Bishop, Bernard, in favour of St. David's, resulting in the extension of the latter diocese eastward to the river Tawe, its present eastward boundary. About the end cf the 11th century we find that the age of Welsh saints was rapidly dying out, and the form of monastic government and practice of the Old British Church disappeared at the advent of the Norman conquest, which put an end to both. The monasticism introduced into Wales by the Normans was of a very different type from that of the Old British Church. The latter was rude, laborious, self-supporting, uniform in its rule, and simple in its aim ; while that of the Latin Church of the 12th century was cultivated, wealthy, varied in its form, and ambitious of influence, both in Church and State. Little wonder then that Welsh monasticism at once gave place to its more vigorous and versatile rival. Even the Welsh people seem to have become early inoculated with its spirit, and vied with the Norman conquerors in zeal and liberality for its support. From this period we have to regard the church at Pembrey as no longer under the monasticism of St. Illtyd, Its History and its Architecture. for we find that the Priory of St. Mary at Kidwelly, founded by Eoger, Bishop of Salisbury, in 1107-1130, and affiliated as a Cell to Sherborne Abbey, Dorset, soon after, owned the church of St. Ishmael, near Ferryside, and that of St. Illtyd, at Pembrey. But these were subsequently attached by John of Gaunt, the former to St. Mary's College, St. David's, and the latter to St. Mary's Collegiate Church, Leicester. In 1282-3, from the "Inquisitiones Post Mortem of the 11th year of Edward 1st," we find the next reference to Pembrey Church in an enquiry concerning the possessions of Patrick de Cadurcis, which appear to have been very extensive, including amongst the advowsons of several other churches, that of the church at "Penbray." He was the grandson of Patrick de Cadurcis of Brittany (who came over ¦with William the Conqueror) and was married to Hawyse, daughter and heiress of Thomas de Londres, first Norman Lord of Kidwelly, who died in 1196. He was succeeded by his son, also named Patrick, who married Isabel, daughter of William de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. Their daughter Maud was married to Henry, Earl of Lancaster, afterwards Henry IV. It will thus be seen how the Lordship of Kidwelly, of which Pembrey is a part, descended from William de Londres, its first Norman Lord, who acquired it by con quest, to Patrick de Cadurcis, then from his family to Henry, Earl ot Lancaster, and finally it became merged in that Duchy. In 1291 the Taxation of Pope Nicholas IV. was taken, and Pembrey Church appears iu it as " Ecclesia de Pembray, valued at £6 13s. 4d." In 1540, Leland in his Itenerary refers to Pembrey as " Penbre, a little Lordship longging to Kidwelli Lands ii miles from KidwoUi by South Est liying." In 1552, Edward VI. appointed Commissioners to take and make "a just view, survey and inventorie of all manner of Goods, Plate, Jewels, Vestryments, Bells and other ornaments within every parisshe, &c.," and the following extract from it refers to Pembrey Chnrch : — "Penbrey ... In p'mis ... a chalyce." « „ ... It'm ... iij great belles." And we further gather from the pleadings of the Duchy of Lancaster, preserved in the Public Record Office, London, that the Eectorial and St. Illtyd's Church, Pembrey: other church property in the parish of Pembrey had, after the dis solution of the Monastic and Eeligious Houses by Henry VIII. in 1539, belonged to his son, Edward VI. (hence his authority for issu ing the Commission of 1552), as it was given him and his heirs by Parliament, and thereby annexed, united and appointed to be within the survey and order of the Duchy of Lancaster. It appears also from the Eecord proceedings, above referred to, that Edward VI. granted a lease, dated 19th May, 1551, for 45 years of the Eectorial, &c., tithes of the Parish of Pembrey, bnt with a reservation of the advowson and the right of presentation, to one William Morgan, who was succeeded on his death by his son Henry Morgan, who, being in default in his payment of the rent, appears to have been ousted in consequence, for on 30th November, 1566, another and similar lease for 30 years was granted to Eobert Christmas, at the expiration of whose term a new lease, dated 9th July, 1583, for 30 years, was granted by Queen Elizabeth to Sir John Perrott, but it appears he was attainted of high treason, which put an end to his lease ; and on 21st June, 1594, a fresh lease for 31 years was granted by Queen Elizabeth to Lady Dorothy Perrott, the widow of Sir Thomas Perrott, of Pembrokeshire, and who was the daughter of Walter Devereaux, Earl of Essex. She was afterwards married to Henry, ninth Earl of Northumberland, and by this marriage the Eectorial Tithes, &c., of Pembrey became the property of the Earls of Northumberland. We find from Bromley's " Survey of the Lordship of Kidwelly in 1609," " that his M'(ages)tie is Patron of the Viokarydge of Penbrey," and that " Thomas Prichard, Clerk, is now Vickar of Pembrey." The King reigning then was James I. The expiration of this lease brings us down to the year 1625. Apparently the interest in this lease seems to have been extended to the Earl of Northumberland, for we find that in 1644 a petition was presented to the House of Lords in respect to some abuses alleged to have existed in the parish churches of the district, six of which, with several chapels, including Pembre Church and its chapels, were held by Henry Vaughan, M.P. (a brother of the first Earl of Carbery), at a yearly rental of £750, from one Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland. With this petition another petition was also presented, to further consider the number of Papists in these Its History and its Architecture. parts. Also in the same year we find that, by resolution of the House of Commons, Henry Vaughan, amongst others, was discharged and disabled from being any longer or sitting in the then House of Parlia ment, for deserting the service of the House, and being in the King's quarters and adhering to that party. From Henry Vaughan's tenure in 1644 to that of the Ashburnhams we have not been able to trace the changes, but it could not have passed from Henry Vaughan to the Ashburnhams through relationship, as this Henry Vaughan was no relation to the Vaughans of Pembrey, who were descended from the Vaughans of Bredwardine, and we can only surmise that the owner ship of the Advowson and Rectorial Tithes of Pembrey Parish may have passed to the Ashburnhams with the Manor of Pembrey, which descended to them through the marriage of Sir Eichard Vaughan, of Bredwardine, with Ann, daughter of John Butler, who was Lord of the Manor and the owner of the Pembrey property, shewn more fully by the following particulars of the family : — 1. — Sib Eichaed Vaughan, of Bredwardine, married Ann, daughter and heiress of John Butler, of Dunraven and Pembre, and by this marriage it appears that the Estate and Manor of Pembre passed into the possession of the Vaughans for the first time. 2. — Walteb Vaughan, of Penbre, Dunraven and Bredwardine, son of the above, married Blanche, daughter of William Eydol, of Eydol. He was High Sheriff of Carmarthen in 1557, aud lived at Dunraven in 1584. 3.— Thomas Vaughan, son of Walter, of Pembrey and Dunraven, High Sheriff of Carmarthen 1566 and 1570, married Catherine, daughter of Sir Thomas Jones, of Abermarlais, who was M.P. for Carmarthen in 1586. He purchased FuUerstone or Falstone, County Wilts. His widow married, secondly, Eichard Bassett, of Beanpre, in 1600. 4. — Sib Walteb Vaughan, son of Thomas, of Dunraven, Penbre and Falstone, married a daughter of Eichard Hanam, or Vernon. He is buried at Tenby. 5.— SiE Chaelbs Vaughan, son of Walter, of Dunraven, Penbre and Porthaml, living in 1623, married Frances, daughter St. Illtyd's Church, Pembrey , and heiress of Sir Eobert Knollys, Knight, of Porthaml, whose wife was Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Eichard Vaughan, of that place. By this marriage the Breconshire and Carmarthenshire estates became amalgamated and vested in the Vaughans. 6. — Walter Vaughan, of Porthaml, near Talgarth, Breconshire, appears to have had only two children : — 1st. — Thomas Vaughan, who sold Dunraven to the Whyndhams, and who appears to have died without issue. 2nd. — Bbidget, who became possessed of the Porthaml and Pembrey Estates after the death of her brother Thomas, had now become the only daughter and heiress of Walter Vaughan. She was married to the first Eari of-Ashbnrn- ham, then plain Mr. Ashburnham, in 1677, and through this marriage the Carmarthenshire and Breconshire Estates, belonging to the Vaughans, passed into the possession of the Ashburnhams, who, we believe, still possess them. Architecture of the Church.— It is rather difficult to deter mine what may have been the architectural character of the early British Churches subsequent to their foundation ; but there is little doubt, so far as can be gathered from history, that it was of a some what primitive kind. Probably the earliest edifices consisted, as we may reasonably believe, of mud walls with roofs of skins or leafy branches ; the next place was a timber frame with wattle and dab, and lastly, stone was erected. Bede, the English historian, writing about 734, in referring to the custom of the British, quotes Bishop Nymes, " whose episcopal see is famous for the name of the church of the holy Bishop Martin, where he also himself in body rests, along with many saints. Now at this time the people of the Angles, which place borders the province of the Bernecii, commonly called ' White Cottage,' because he made there a church of stone after a fashion unusual with the Britons." Columba, the great Irish missionary, is said to have built in about 546, before he came to Britain to preach in 596-7, a fine monastery iu Ireland which he called Dearmacb, from which name it s o I 8 C J (^ Its History and its Architecture. 13 is evident that oak timber was the material used in its construction. Now it is clear, we think, from the foregoing historical references, there can be no doubt but that wood was the materials used by Early Church builders for their churches. The Welsh name for a building — adail — which in its primary signification means wattling rods, is suggestive of the rude and simple character of the architec ture of the Early British people, which, so far as we know, continued up to the eighth or ninth century, when, according to Bede, stone churches began to be built ; and it may not perhaps be a very reck less conjecture to suggest that the original wooden church of St. Illtyd may have been rebuilt with stone about the latter part of the tenth century, and consecrated by Bishop Herwald in 1066 or about. If this supposition be well founded, the rebuilt church would natur ally be on the site of the old one, and was built probably in a some what rude and plain character, that it could not be designated as of any particular style of architecture ; but it may have been built, if not actually Norman, much under the influence of Norman builders, who, without much knowledge of uniform strength or comparative strength, built all in great massiveness and without buttresses, which is the case at Pembre, while their windows were few and small in number. The present church consists of a nave, one aisle, a chancel, a lady chapel, a porch, and a tower. So far as we can make out, the present plan of the church is not altogether of its original conception, form and size, as there are some indications that it was erected at different periods ; but it is difficult to be quite positive on this particular point owing to the defacements by various alterations and mutilations — some of comparatively modern date— which have been carried out in the past. In support of the above opinion we would in the flrst place call attention to the tower which, at first sight, seems to be an earlier structure than the rest of the building, but this, on closer examination, appears doubtful, and one feature in particular— rather a singular one — in support of this doubt is found in the west side base. The batter of this base does not run ou the outside along the whole of its length ; it ceases about two feet from its south-west angle as if arrested by the presence of an earlier structure, and this can only be found in the wall of the nave at this point. The tower 14 St. Illtyd's Church, Pembrey: has no visible external south-west angle from its foundation to the square or wall-plate of the nave wall — but from that point it starts in >•¦ well-defined angle to its top — while it may be added that this angle and the south side of the tower have the appearance of over-lapping and resting upon the nave wall as if the latter was an earlier building. We have further tested this point by a careful examination inside the church, where, possibly, some indication of a batter might be visible, but we discovered none, unless we might regard the slight leaning or tapering of the north nave wall towards the tower as a mild one, but this inclination continues along the whole of the north nave wall — which is fully 3ft. 3in. thick, but at the base of the tower it is 5ft. 6in. thick — but whether it was an earlier wall or built at the same time as the tower, is a point too difficult to offer quite a decisive opinion upon. We, however, still hold to the opinion that the present nave aud chancel are upon the site of the original church founded, as also that of the church consecrated by Bishop Herwald in about 1066. It has an independent bell gable or bell cot which would have been unneoes- sary if the tower had been built before or built at the same time. In the chancel also we find an old piscina and an ambry, while the entrance to the rood loft is still visible in the chancel arch — all of which testify to the antiquity and add to the importance of this part of the sacred edifice. The To-web, built at the north-west angle of the Nave, is about 70 feet in height, 25 feet square at its base, and 23 feet square at top, and is a massive structure, somewhat imposing and noble in its appearance, and it impresses the mind with the idea that it unites externally the usual type of its period by the retention of some characteristics of a military tower. It has no buttress, only a batter from a string-course to its foundation, while its battlements rest upon a corbel-table diversified by a band of ornamental work. Close below the corbel-table are some plain oblong belfry windows roundly arched at their upper end — the one on the east side, which was originally of the same size as the one on the north, has been filled in and reduced to a smaller opening, the filling evidencing what looks as Early work, and under them are some smaller ones, besides some slits which serve to light the stairs. There are three _ w fytiST ELEVATIor-f Its History and its Architecture. 17 embrasures on each top face of the tower, and a long flag-staff rises from its centre, upon which is mounted a weather-cook vane. The lower story of the tower is internally vaulted, while its external walls are faced with rough stones which rather enhance its singu larly picturesque appearance. aUlc and LocUj Cka.fi.el The Aisle, on the north side, is 34 feet by 16 feet, and furnished throughout with high pews. It has rather a pleasing appearance, being relieved of its plainness by a prettily decorated and moulded wood and plaster ceiling, with junction caps, which give it a pretty appearance. Its present roof is not its original one, as evidenced by the marks on the tower which indicate that it once possessed a high-pitched roof, erected at the same time as the tower. 1 8 St. Illtyd's Church, Pembrey ; It has three modern plain wood windows, with flat arches, facing north. The arch between Aisle and Lady Chapel is decidedly Gothic in its appearance, but it is so be-plastered that it is difficult to decide its original type or mode of construction. The Ladt Chapel is at the east end of the Aisle and on the north side of the Chancel. It is 29 feet by 13^ feet in extent, is of a plain and unpretending character with a similar roof work to that of the Aisle, and has a few monumental memorial slabs in it, but no pews. Why it is called Lady Chapel is not known, but it has been so called from time immemorial, and nothing is known of its history. Some hazard the opinion that it may originally have been set apart as a memorial chapel or chauntry wherein to sing masses for the repose of the patron saint and founder, St. Hltyd. It has two windows on its north side similar in size and character as those in the Aisle, and a larger plain window at its east end, with a relieving arch above it to be seen outside. The Nave is the largest portion of the whole building, and is 25i feet by 18J feet in size, and furnished throughout with high pews. Its roof favours much of early English style, with oak principals about 3i feet apart, otherwise its appearance is plain and unorna- mental, while its walls are dotted here and there by several marble and other memorial slabs. It is rather a peculiar feature in these principals that they extend over the south side wall, which appears to have been built out two or three inches at its upper part to suit this extension. The most interesting window in the church is at its south-east corner, as on its inside arch are carved six coats of arms and one on its left side — details of which are given later on. Internally, this window is surrounded with round moulding ; while externally it shews some pretty tracery works, as does also the smaller window between it and the porch. This smaller window is a lancet with a trefoil head, enriched with a little tracery about its upper part, which also contains some colored glass of a golden hue, with the representation of a white dove depicted thereon. Both these windows are evidently of Early English period. The west window is Gothic and a fairly large one, placed in its position at a comparatively modern date, as is also the smaller window west of porch. Under the west window is to be seen Its History and its Architecture. 19 outside two pillars or stone jambs about 7 foot apart, by 14 inches wide, by 5 feet high, supposed by some to form the upright supports of an old west doorway to the church, prior to the erection of the present south porch. The arches between nave and aisle are badly designed and formed, and are of no particular style. They are semi-pointed ; and as regards the arch between nave and chancel it is most difficult IVa-xpe. aYid, C h.an.cel to ascertain its original shape, as it appears to be so thickly be- plastered and defaced, but we are inclined to think it was a pointed or Gothic arch. The Chancel, in dimensions, 27 feet by 15 feet, is, of course, at the east end of the nave and, like other parts of the church, it is plain and unornameutal. The east window is of the same size and character as that in the Lady Chapel, and its two south side smaller 20 St. Illtyd's Church, Pembrey : windows also. All the woodwork in the roof of chancel has been encased in match-boarding, stained and varnished, thereby conceal ing, no doubt, some very good Early English work, very similar to that in the nave roof. S L £ U A TION Vitw 0-f a.tch.c6 - looking from Clxancel 5h&M.Lvu