%k

¦ ¦ ¦ ¦¦¦¦- --.:- ¦•;.-•'. .s ::..:¦,-;¦ .... ¦

"I give thefe Books
for the founding of a College in this Colony"

G-ift of
Dr. Hiram Bingham
ofthe Class of 1898
1907

PARA;

§im% nl %lnntnni

THE BANKS OF THE AMAZON

JOHN ESAIAS WARREN.

" Regions immense, unsearchable, unknown,
Bask in the splendor of the solar zone." Montgomery.

NEW YORK:
G. P. PUTNAM, 155 BROAD'WAY.
1851.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in tlie year 1851, by
u. P. PUTNAM,
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York.

B. Craighead, Printer and 8tereotypert
112 Fulton etreet, New York.

PEEFACE,

Those who have wandered in strange and
beautiful lands, where the wonderful objects
around them have aroused emotions of delight
and pleasure of which they were before uncon
scious, naturally feel a desire to communicate
their impressions, either for the gratification of
friends, or the entertainment of the public.
The writer of this unpretending narrative
frankly acknowledges that he has. been influ
enced by both of these considerations. So
little has of late been written on the subject
of Brazil, — a country which in regard to its
natural advantages is perhaps the most luxu
riant in the world, — that he desires, if possible,
to direct attention to the extraordinary magnifi
cence and beauty of that province particularly
which lies along the banks of the Amazon,
and which extends from the shores of the
Atlantic to the base of the towering Andes !
Throughout this immense domain the reign of
summer is perpetual and undisturbed. Scarcely

IV PREFACE.
a murmur of civilization breaks upon the prevail
ing solitude! The gigantic forests are inha
bited by tribes of savage Indians, birds of the
most brilliant plumage, and serpents of innume
rable varieties and enormous size. With truth
therefore, may it be said, that
" Wildly here without control,
Nature reigns and rules the whole."
New York, May 10, 1851.

P A E A .

CHAPTER I.
Evening on the Amazon — The Harbor of Para — Promiscuous
Bathing — A Brazilian Dinner — Beautiful Garden — Manufac
ture of India Rubber Shoes — First Night Ashore.
The shades of evening were gathering fast upon the
waters, when the little bark, in which we had safely
crossed the wide expanse of ocean, now quietly anchored
in the mighty river of the Amazons.
Through the rich twilight we were able to discern
the white sandy shore, skirting a dense forest of
perennial luxuriance and beauty. Gentle zephyrs,
fraught with the most delightful fragrance from the
wilderness of flowers, softly saluted our senses ; while
occasionally the soft and plaintive voices of southern
nightingales came with mellowed sweetness to our
ears. The queenly moon, unobscured by a single cloud,
threw an indescribable charm over the enchanting scene,

6 PARA.
reflecting her brilliant rays upon the placid surface of
the river, and shrouding the beautiful foliage of the
forest in a drapery of gold. Innumerable stars brightly
glittered in the azure firmament, and the constellation
of the " Southern Cross " gleamed above us like a
diadem. All around seemed to be wrapped in the most
profound repose. Not a sound disturbed the silence of
the interminable solitude save the hushed and mournful
notes of evening birds, the distant howling of prowling
jaguars, or the rustling of the wind through the forest
trees. Nature appeared to us, for the first time, in all
her pristine loveliness, and seemed indeed, to our
excited imagination, to present but a dreamy picture of
fairy land.
At an early hour in the morning we weighed
anchor, and with a fresh breeze and strong tide rapidly
moved up the noble river, gliding by the most beautiful
scenery that fancy can conceive.
The nearly impenetrable forest which lined the shore
was of a deep emerald green, and consisted of exceedingly
lofty trees, of remarkably curious and grotesque figures,
interlaced together by numerous running vines, the
interstices of which were filled up with magnificent
shrubbery. We observed, towering high above the surrounding
trees, many singular species of palms, among which the
far-famed cocoa-nut proudly stood pre-eminent. This

beautiful tree gives a peculiar witchery to a tropical
landscape, which those only who have seen it can
possibly realize. The trunk grows up perfectly perpen
dicular to a great height, before it throws out its curious
branches, which bend over as gracefully as ostrich
plumes, and quiver in the slightest breeze. Consequently,
the general appearance of the tree at a distance is
somewhat similar to that of an umbrella.
As we gradually proceeded, we now and then caught
glimpses of smiling cottages, with their snug little
verandas and red-tiled roofs peering from amid the
foliage of the river's banks, and giving, as it were, a
character of sociality and animation to the beauteous
scene. Perhaps the most interesting spot that we noticed
was an estate bearing the name of Pinherios, which had
been formerly the site of a Carmelite convent, but
which has lately been sold to the government for a
" Hospital dos Lazaros." Here also was an establish
ment for the manufacture of earthenware tiles, which
are extensively used throughout the Brazilian empire for
roofing houses.
So low is the valuation of land in this section of
Brazil, that this immense estate, embracing within its
limits nearly three thousand acres, and situated, as it is,
within twelve miles of the city of Para, was sold for a
sum equivalent to about four thousand dollars. This
may be taken as a fair standard of the value of real

8 PARA.
estate in the vicinity of Para. That of the neighboring
islands is comparatively trifling ; while there are millions
of fertile acres now wholly unappropriated, which offer
the richest inducements to all emigrants who may be
disposed to direct their fortunes thither.
It was near mid-day when our good vessel anchored
in the commodious harbor of Para. The atmosphere
was exceedingly moist, and the thermometer standing
at about eighty-five in the shade. A number of English,
American, and French vessels were in the harbor,
together with several Brazilian men-of-war, and a variety
of small Indian craft, of singular construction, from
the little " montaria," simply composed of the trunk of
a tree hewn out, to the fantastically built sloops which
are employed in trading up the Amazon.
The harbor itself is quite safe, and eminently pic
turesque and beautiful. The river, being at the city
almost four miles in width, is thickly studded with little
islands, which being covered with the most luxuriant
verdure, add not a little to the varied beauty of its
scenery. The city of Para is delightfully situated on the
southern branch of the Amazon, called, for the sake of
distinction, " The Para River." It is the principal city
of the province of the same name, — an immense terri
tory, which has very appropriately been styled " The
Paradise of Brazil" The general aspect of the place,
with its low and venerable looking buildings of solid

PARA. 9
stone, its massive churches and moss-grown ruins, its
red-tiled roofs and dingy-white walls, the beautiful trees
of its gardens, and groups of tall banana plants peeping
up here and there among the houses, constituted certainly
a scene of novelty, if not of elegance and beauty.
The first spectacle which arrested our attention on land
ing was that of a number of persons of both sexes and all
ages, bathing indiscriminately together in the waters of
the river, in a state of entire nudity. We observed
among them several finely formed .Indian girls of exceed
ing beauty, dashing about in the water like a troop of
happy mermaids. The heat of the sun was so intense,
that we ourselves were almost tempted to seek relief
from its overpowering influence by plunging precipitately
amid the joyous throng of swimmers. But we forbore !
The natives of Para are very cleanly, and indulge in
d'aily ablutions ; nor do they confine their baths to the
dusky hours of evening, but may be seen swimming
about the public wharfs at all hours of the day. The
government has made several feeble efforts to put a
restraint upon these public exposures ; but at the time
of our departure all rules and regulations on the subject
were totally disregarded by the natives. The city is
laid out with considerable taste and regularity ; but the
streets are very narrow, and miserably paved with large
and uneven stones.
The buildings generally are but of one story in height,
and are, with few exceptions, entirely destitute of glass
1*

10 PARA.
windows ; a kind of latticed blind is substituted, which
is so constructed that it affords the person within an
opportunity of seeing whatever takes place in the street,
without being observed in return. This lattice opens
towards the street, and thus affords great facilities to the
beaux and gentlemen of gallantry ; who, by stepping
under this covering, can have an agreeable tete-a-tete
with their fair mistresses, as secretly almost as if they
were in a trellised arbor together.
We noticed several strange spectacles as we slowly
walked through the city. Venders of fruit with
huge baskets on their heads, filled with luscious
oranges, bananas, mangoes, pineapples, and other
choice fruits of the tropics ; groups of blacks carry
ing immense burdens in the same manner; invalids
reclining in their hammocks, or ladies riding in their
gay-covered palanquins, supported on men's shoulders ;
and water-carriers moving along by the side of their
heavily-laden horses or mules.
Finally, we met with a party of some thirty or forty
blacks, each one of them bearing a large basket of tapioca
on his head. They were perfectly naked to their
waists, and wore only a pair of pantaloons of very coarse
material. They marched on at a slow and measured
pace, chanting at the same time a singularly monotonous
air, to which they beat time with their hands.
We learned that they were free blacks, and called
themselves " Ganhadores." Their business was that of

PARA. 11
loading and unloading vessels ; horses and carts being
but little used in Para. These bands are under the
direction of a leader or captain, who furnishes, on appli
cation, any number of men that may be required. In
loading vessels, they frequently wade out into the water
until their heads and the boxes thereon are alone visible
above the surface. They then deposit their several bur
dens in a species of " lighter," or flat-bottomed boat,
which conveys them immediately to the larger vessels
lying at anchor in the stream.
Arriving at length at the hospitable mansion of James
Campbell, Esq., to whom we had introductory letters, we
were invited to make his house our home. The Ameri
can and Scotch merchants at Para are extremely kind
to strangers ; and as there is not a single hotel of any
description in the place, one is obliged to throw himself
upon the kindness and generosity of the inhabitants ;
yet, if he has good letters of introduction, he will have
no difficulty in securing a residence, — aye, more, a
home. It was just three o'clock when we sat down to our
first dinner in Para. Barley soup was the only thing
we saw ; but, this being quickly despatched, roast and
boiled beef were brought on the table. The meat was
tolerably good, but was strongly flavored with garlic,
that indispensable article of cookery among the Bra
zilians and Portuguese.
A tempting assortment of vegetables figured conspicu-

12

ously among the side-dishes ; but we confined our atten
tion mostly to the unassuming beans and simple Irish
potatoes, probably from an ill-founded prejudice for all
edibles which were novel and unknown.
These things having been removed, port wine, oranges,
bananas, and a variety of other tropical fruits were sub
stituted, with which we regaled ourselves in a sump
tuous manner.
On the conclusion of the meal, wooden toothpicks
were handed round, and a few moments were spent in
putting to rights our severely-tasked grinders.
We then discussed the merits of a Brazilian cigar ;
the less said, however, about Para cigars, the better ;
they are afforded at a very low price, and are made in a
most miserable manner.
The tobacco, however, is intrinsically of a good
quality, and is for the most part brought from the
interior, where it grows spontaneously in the forest.
It is lightly pressed into circular rolls of about three feet
in length, which are closely wound with rattan, to pro
tect them from the moisture of the atmosphere. These
rolls contain from two to three pounds each, and are
called " molhos de tobacco." Should you desire to con
ciliate the favor of one of the natives, you cannot adopt
a more certain means than of presenting him with one
of these "molhos." Shortly after dinner we once more
sallied out into the open air. It was a charming after
noon ; and a delicious breeze from the sea fanned us, as

PARA. 13
we strolled on towards the Roscenia, or country seat of
Mr. Smith, the American consul.
We met many fine-looking Indian women, carrying
fruit and other vendible commodities on their heads,
while children of both sexes, without even " the summer
garb of Eden," were running and sporting together in
the different streets through which we passed.
Turning a certain corner, we perceived a number of
half-naked blacks engaged in transporting a hogshead of
wine. It was encircled by several ropes, through the
loopholes of which long poles were run. These were
supported on the shoulders of negroes, who uttered the
same discordant chant as they moved on, which has been
noticed before.
We also encountered slaves carrying their mistresses
about in a palanquin. This is a kind of curtained cab,
and is sometimes ornamented in an exceedingly rich and
beautiful manner. It is furnished with two wooden
arms in front, and two more behind, by means of which
it is transported from place to place by Indians or Negroes.
Invalids usually prefer taking the air in a hammock ;
it being much more comfortable for such than a palan
quin. It is suspended on a pole, sometimes overhung
with a drapery of exquisite texture, and is composed of
either cotton or fine grass, embroidered with feathers of
brilliant hues.
Delighted with the appearance of the many strange
spectacles which were continually presenting themselves,

14 PARA.
we were hardly conscious of our progress until we had
arrived at the country residence of Mr. Smith — a neat
little cottage, with a red tiled roof, and pleasant veran
da, almost concealed from view by the luxuriance of the
surrounding and overhanging foliage.
The consul received us with that cordiality for which
he was eminently distinguished, and invited us to take a
stroll with him through the shaded avenues of his gar
den. Accepting his kind invitation, we took our first
peep at the fruit trees, flowers, and other choice produc
tions of the tropics — it was an epoch in our lives, and
one of the happiest hours that we ever spent ! On all
sides of us, groups of orange, mango, guava, and lime
trees, were drooping with the weight of their green
and golden fruit — tall banana shrubs threw out their
gigantic leaves, while the mellow fruit hung in immense
clusters from their powerful stems — rows of coffee bushes
lined the path on either side, teeming with blossoms of
snowy whiteness — tempting pineapples, standing alone
on solitary stalks, lifted their heads above the bed of
curious leaves by which they were surrounded — while
flowering oleanders shot up to a prodigious height, and
fragrant jessamines filled the atmosphere with delicious
perfume !
Seating ourselves beneath the shelter of a vine-covered
arbor, blooming with passion-flowers, we regaled our
palates with a sumptuous repast of chosen fruits, which the
amiable senhora of our host had caused to be provided.

PARA. 15
On returning to Mr. Campbell's, where we were to
pass the night, we encountered several water-carriers,
walking slowly along by the side of their jar-laden
mules. They were finely formed — thinly clad, and wore
coarse hats, with brims of extraordinary dimensions.
The mules were provided with panniers, swung over their
backs, in each of which was placed a singularly-shaped
earthenware jar, capable of holding several gallons of
water. The city of Para is supplied with water from a
single spring. This is situated in the suburbs of the
town. Here may be seen congregated, at all hours of
the day, a motley assemblage of men, women, and chil
dren, busily engaged in filling their different vessels from
this never-failing fountain of nature !
A number of blacks bearing long poles on their
shoulders, thickly strung with India-rubber shoes, also
attracted our attention. These are for the most part
manufactured in the interior, and are brought down the
river for sale, by the natives. It has been estimated that
at least two hundred and fifty thousand pairs of shoes
are annually exported from the province, and the num
ber, is constantly on the increase.
A few words here respecting the tree itself, and the
manufacture of the shoes, may not be out of place.
The tree (Siphilla Elastica) is quite peculiar in its
appearance, and sometimes reaches the height of eighty
and even a hundred feet. The trunk is perfectly round,
rather smooth, and protected by a bark of a light color.

16 PARA.
The leaves grow iu clusters of three together, are thin,
and of an ovate form, and are from ten to fourteen
inches in length. The centre leaf of the cluster is always
the longest.
This remarkable tree bears a curious fruit, of the size
of a peach, which, although not very palatable, is eagerly
sought after by different animals — it is separated into
three lobes, which contain each a small black nut. The
trees are tapped in the same manner that New Engend
ers tap maple trees. The trunk having been perforated,
a yellowish liquid, resembling cream, flows out, which is
caught in small clay cups, fastened to the tree. When
these become full, their contents are emptied into large
earthen jars, in which the liquid is kept until desired
for use.
The operation of making the shoes is as simple as it is
interesting. Imagine yourself, dear reader, in one of the
seringa groves of Brazil. Around you are a number of
good-looking natives, of low stature and olive com
plexions. All are variously engaged. One is stirring
with a long wooden stick the contents of a cauldron,
placed over a pile of blazing embers. This is the liquid
as it was taken from the rubber tree. Into this a wooden
" last," covered with clay, and having a handle, is
plunged. A coating of the liquid remains. You will
perceive that another native then takes the " last," and
holds it in the smoke arising from the ignition of a
species of palm fruit, for the purpose of causing the

PARA. li
glutinous substance to assume a dark color. The " last"
is then plunged again into the cauldron, and this pro
cess is repeated, as in dipping candles, until the coating
is of the required thickness. You will, moreover, notice
a number of Indian girls (some very pretty) engaged
in making various impressions, such as flowers, &c, upon
the soft surface of the rubber, by means of their thumb
nails, which are especially pared and cultivated for this
purpose. After this final operation, the shoes are placed
in the sun to harden, and large numbers of them may
be seen laid out on mats in exposed situations. The
aboriginal name of the rubber is cahuchu, from which
the formidable word of caoutchouc is derived. In Para
it is styled borracha or seringa !
It was past sunset when we arrived at Mr. Campbell's.
Having supped with him, we spent the former part of
the evening in playing a sociable game of cards, and
then strolled out again, to walk through the city by
moonlight. It was a glorious night ! The air was redo
lent with the incense of flowers, and no sounds but
those of music and mirth broke upon our ears ! returning
once more to the house, we ensconced ourselves in our
hammocks, and while a crowd of strange and beautiful
images were dancing in our minds, we happily fell asleep.

18

CHAPTER II.
The Province of Para. — Its vast Extent. — El Dorado, or the City
of the Gilded King. — The Discovery of the Amazon by Orel-
lana. — Fighting Women encountered on its Banks. — The
Capture of Para by Lord Cochrane. — Present Condition. — In
surrection of 1835.
Before resuming our personal narrative, we think it ex
pedient to give our reader a brief account of the past
history of the province, including a short notice of the
disturbances of 1835. It may with truth be remarked,
that there is no country of equal extent which rivals
Brazil in point of natural magnificence.
This vast empire is divided into nineteen provinces, of
which that of Para is the largest and most productive.
This immense territory lies immediately under the Equa
tor, on both sides of the Amazon, and extends from the
Atlantic to the borders of Peru. It contains not less,
than nine hundred thousand square miles ; an area equal
almost, in extent, to one half that of the whole United
States, including all of its territories. It 4s entirely
covered by a dense forest of indescribable grandeur and
beauty, abounding in rare spices, and valuable woods,
plants, and aromatics, of the most delightful odor, and

19

bright plumaged birds and singurla animals of endless
varieties. Throughout this wide domain no white adventurer
has ever roved !- He may have sailed on the bosom of
many of its noble rivers, or wandered along by the
margin of its numerous streams, but the interior is to
him as yet an untravelled region, whose silence has been
undisturbed, save by the howling of animals, the discord
ant cries of unknown birds, and the yells of savage
Indians, since the primeval dawn of creation ! Speaking
of the boundless country of the Amazons, Mr. Kidder, in
his elaborate work, eloquently remarks :
" No portion of the earth involves a greater degree of
physical interest. Its central position upon the equator,
its vast extent, its unlimited resources, its mammoth
rivers, and the romance that still lingers in its name and
history, are all peculiar. Three hundred years have
elapsed since this region was discovered, but down to the
present day, two thirds of it remain uncivilized and
unexplored !"
For the discovery of the existence of Amazonia, pos
terity is indebted to Orellana, one of the companions of
the cruel and bloodthirsty Gonzalo Pizarro, in his futile
search after the imaginary city of " El Dorado," or the
" Gilded King."
This was a magnificent city, of golden palaces, and
streets paved with precious stones, supposed to exist
somewhere in the interior of South America. Exagge-

20 PARA.
rated accounts of it had been given to the credulous
Spaniards by the crafty natives, which excited the
avariciousness of the former to such a degree, that they
did not hesitate to shed the blood of all who denied its
existence, believing they did so from an unwillingness to
give them any information concerning it.
It was in the year 1544 that Pizarro, with an army
of three hundred soldiers and four thousand Indians,
left Quito, the capital of the Peruvian empire, for the
purpose of discovering this famous city of gold.
Innumerable and arduous were the obstacles they met,
and the privations and hardships they were forced to
encounter. They were obliged to cut their way through
a dense forest, abounding in wild beasts of various kinds,
and snakes and reptiles of the most dangerous descrip
tions — to climb mountains and descend steep precipices
— to cross plains submerged with water — to wade
through putrefying lagoons and marshes, and to contend
with numerous savage tribes of Indians, who surrounded
them on all sides.
For many toilsome weeks they journeyed on ! Their
provisions becoming exhausted, they were threatened
with all the miseries of famine, and were necessitated to
make food of their dogs and horses. A great number had
died, others were sick, and when at last they reached
the banks of the river Napo, hardly more than one tenth
of the army remained, and these were almost worn out
with their sufferings.

PARA. 21
Here Pizarro encamped ; and having heard reports
from the natives of a larger river into which this flowed,
he dispatched a vessel under the command of Francisco
de Orellana to ascertain this fact, and if possible to pro
cure a fresh supply of provisions.
After having sailed down the river some two or three
hundred miles, all idea of returning, on the part of
Orellana, was abandoned. He saw that it would be
utterly impossible for him to carry any relief to Pizarro
and his army, and knew that by prosecuting his journey,
and discovering the mighty river, of which they had
heard such glowing accounts, he might save the lives,
and clothe the names of himself and companions with
undying glory !
Stimulated with such inspiring hopes, they continued
their voyage down the river. Its banks were lined by a
gigantic and beautiful vegetation, whose fall trees cast
their long shadows over the water, and protected the
voyagers from the overpowering rays of the sun.
At the expiration of eight days, they discovered a
small Indian settlement, situated on the banks of the
river, which they immediately took possession of in the
name of the crown of Castile. The natives were at first
exceedingly frightened, and fled away into the woods —
acquiring confidence, they afterwards returned, bringing
with them fruits and various kinds of provisions, which
they offered to their strange and unaccountable visitors.
Orellana having remained at this settlement until he had

22

built a new vessel, once more resumed his voyage.
Many were the startling adventures which they encoun
tered in sailing down the" rapid current of the mighty
Amazon. Not the least of these was their meeting with
a party of Amazons, or fighting women, who are
described by Friar Gasper as being tall in stature, sym
metrical in form, and decorated with long and luxuriant
tresses of braided hair. This story was doubtless a fable,
invented for the purpose of throwing a shade of romance
over their wonderful voyage. Certainly no such women
now exist on the Amazon, and in all probability never
did ! Yet the fiction of the discoverer has given a name
to the river, which will long outlive his own !
At the expiration of seven months, Orellana arrived
at the ocean. Having landed at a certain island in order
to repair his vessels, he sailed direct for Spain. He was
received with great honor by his sovereign, to whom he
gave an exaggerated account of his extraordinary voyage,
and the important discoveries he had made.
A second expedition was soon fitted out, which,
however, was unsuccessful. On account of the multipli
city of small islands in its mouth, they were unable to
find the main branch of the river, and were obliged to
return without having accomplished anything worthy of
remark. Soon after this event Orellana languished and
died. Several efforts have been made to restore his
name to the river, but in vain. It is destined to be
called " The Amazon " for ever.

PARA. 23
The intervention of the island of Marejo in the mouth
of the Amazon constitutes two great branches, the
southern one of which has been termed "The Para
River." On this the city is situated, near its junction
with the Tocantiuo. The city has about fifteen thousand
inhabitants, including blacks and Indians. It was founded
by Francisco Caldeira in 1616, and was designated as
" The City of St. Mary of Bethlehem,"— a name which
it retains to the present day in some of the public papers
and documents. Its exact position is in latitude 1° 28'
south, and longitude 48° 28' west. The Portuguese
language is the one generally spoken.
Previous to the revolution of 1823, Para was subject
to the authority of Portugal. It was then taken by Lord
Cochrane, and compelled to swear allegiance to Don
Pedro II. This object having been accomplished by
stratagem, the people were very boisterous, and could not
be quelled, except by severe and sanguinary measures.
Several of the mob-ringleaders were shot, and two hun
dred and fifty others were taken prisoners. It was found
necessary to place these in the hold of a small vessel
lying in the harbor, the hatches of which were guarded
by fifteen Brazilian soldiers. The following graphic
description of this occurrence is given by Mr. Kidder in
his work on Brazil, who derived it from creditable Por
tuguese authority : — " Crowded until almost unable to
breathe, and suffering alike from hunger and thirst, the
poor wretches attempted to force their way on deck, but

24 PARA.
were repulsed by the guard, who, after firing upon
them, and fastening down the hatchway, drew a piece
of ordnance across it, and effectually debarred all egress.
The stifling sensation caused by this exclusion of air
drove the suffering crowd to utter madness, and many
are said to have lacerated and mangled each other in
the most horrible manner. Suffocation, with all its ago
nies, succeeded. The aged and the young, the strong
and feeble, the assailant and his antagonist, all sank
down exhausted, in the agonies of death. In the hope
of alleviating their sufferings, a stream of water was at
length let into the hold, and towards morning the tumult
abated ; but from a cause which had not been antici
pated. Of all the two hundred and fifty-three, four only
were found alive, who had escaped destruction by con
cealing themselves behind a water-butt."
All that can be said in extenuation of this deplorable
catastrophe is, that it proceeded more from carelessness
and gross ignorance than from deliberation and design.
The present condition of Para is exceedingly auspicious.
Peace and quiet now prevail throughout its extensive
wilds, undisturbed by the sounds of warfare or the shouts
of infuriated savages. Nature seems to have lavished
upon this favored province her choicest gifts, her most
alluring charms. Here bloom the gayest flowers, distilling
their fragrance on the air around. Here flourish the
loftiest trees, whose feathery branches wave in the softest
breeze. Where can be found more picturesque and

PARA. 25
romantic scenery, or a purer and softer atmosphere?
Her mammoth rivers, flowing rapidly from the lofty
mountains in which their childhood was nurtured, wander
through the recesses of a forest of unrivalled grandeur,
distributing their fertilizing influence on every side. No
sounds now break their pervading stillness save the
voices of occasional wanderers, or the notes of happy
birds. But this repose has not always existed. No longer
ago than the year 1835 this lovely province was the
scene of a violent commotion. Massacre, with her
bloody hand, brandished over the city her glittering
weapon, stained with human gore. The war-shouts of
revengeful Indians rang through the silent avenues of
the forest. Strange echoes startled the solitudes of the
groves, and the innocent birds fled affrighted from their
sylvan homes, to seek for themselves a place of greater
security in the very heart of the wilderness.
It was on the 14th of August that a large body of
Indians, provoked beyond measure at the numerous
injuries which they had sustained from the government
of Para, and instigated by the example of a number of
mutinous soldiers, who had assassinated the president of
the province, together with several others in authority,
suddenly descended to revenge their many wrongs, by
taking immediate possession of the capital.
This outbreak was wholly unexpected, and the inhabit
ants were therefore but poorly prepared to sustain so
2

26 PARA.
vigorous an attack. For three days, however, a brave
though useless resistance was manifested by the citizens,
who barricaded some of the strongest houses, and having
fortified the windows by means of large cotton-bales, kept
up a continual fire upon their ruthless invaders.
The commander of an English man-of-war at anchor
in the harbor, sent ashore a body of marines, to assist in
the defence of the city. On account, however, of the
pusillanimous conduct of the new president, these were
soon withdrawn ; but the guns of the vessel were turned
towards the city, and a destructive fire kept up incessantly
against the insurgents.
But, notwithstanding all efforts, resistance proved
futile ; force and numbers finally prevailed, and the city
itself was abandoned to the fury of the enemy. The
lives and property of foreigners had been respected by
the Indians, and no women or children were slaughtered
during the conflict. This fact discloses a trait in the
character of the natives, which is certainly worthy of
commendation. It shows, moreover, that they were not
instigated by cruelty, but only by a natural desire to
redress the manifold insults which had been heaped upon
them by their persecutors.
The citizens betook themselves to the different vessels
in the harbor, whieh conveyed them to Maranham, a
flourishing seaport, distant about four or five hundred
miles from Para.
For nine months the Indians held undisturbed posses-

PARA. 21
sion of the city ; at the expiration of which time it was
retaken by a body of imperial soldiers, under the com
mand of General Andrea. Great changes, however, had
been wrought during this period of anarchy and rapine.
The houses had been pillaged of everything that was
valuable ; flourishing plantations had been destroyed by
fire ; and the streets of the city were so filled up with
gigantic weeds as to be almost impassable, while hun
dreds of human skeletons, blanched to a chalky whiteness
by the rays of the sun, lay glistening among the grass.
These were all collected together into an immense pile,
and burnt in one of the public squares of the city.
Since this period no disturbances have occurred ; and
probably none will, until fresh cruelties on the part of
the Portuguese shall again rouse the dormant passions
of the Indians, and excite them to revenge.

28 PARA.

CHAPTER III.
Removal to the " Roscenia de Nazere." — Curious Monument. —
Charming Garden. — ' Chico.' — Variety of Fruits. — Pine-apples
and Bananas. — A dreamy Siesta. — First Hunt in the Forest. —
An old Ruin. — A Monkey Adventure.
A few days after my arrival at Para, as I was prome
nading the streets one morning, I was suddenly accosted
by a familiar voice, and, looking up, whom should I see
but an old schoolmate of mine, comfortably seated on
the balcony of a large stone house, quietly smoking his
fragrant cigar.
Descending immediately and shaking me cordially by
the hand, he insisted upon taking us into the house and
introducing us to his father, who was one of the richest
and most influential men in the city. The old gentleman
appeared to be glad to see us, and treated us with a vast
deal of politeness.
As soon as Mr. Danin (for this was the gentleman's
name) understood that we had come out to Brazil for
the sake of our health, and of pursuing the study of
natural history, he very kindly offered us the entire con
trol of a charming country-seat of his, situated within a

PARA. 29
mile of the city, called " The Roscenia de Nazere." As
this estate was just on the borders of the forest, and
therefore well located for sporting purposes, we did not
hesitate to accept the kind offer that had been made us.
In two or three days, having made ah necessary
arrangements, bought our provisions, and hired a cook,
we took our departure for Nazere.
An odd spectacle we presented in walking out to the
Roscenia. We had chartered ten or twelve blacks to
carry our luggage, each of whom was loaded with some
item of provisions or of furniture. One had a sack
of beans, another a hamper of potatoes, while a third
carried a large basket of farina poised upon his head.
We ourselves marched along in the rear, with our trusty
guns mounted on our shoulders and long wood-knives
gleaming in our hands.
Scarcely had we proceeded beyond the limits of the
city, when we were encompassed by a strange and mag
nificent vegetation. Groups of palm trees, with their
tall stems and feather-like branches, were waving in the
distance, while plants of curious form, and bushes teeming
with flowers, surrounded us on every side.
The scenery of the Largo de Polvera (over which we
passed in our route) was very picturesque. A row of
low cottages ran along one side, fronted by a narrow
walk. These little habitations were tenanted by blacks
and Indians, and had quite a neat and pretty appearance.
On the opposite side, at the distance of several hundred

30 PARA.
yards, the forest commenced, dotted here and there along
its margin by handsome little cottages peeping from
amid the thick foliage around them.
Having crossed the Largo, we pursued our way through
a rich defile of shrubbery, until we finally emerged into
another beautiful and extensive "clearing," called the
" Largo de Nazere."
The first object that arrested our attention was a strange
looking monument built of wood, standing at the very
entrance of the " Largo." Our curiosity being excited,
we inquired of a gentleman who accompanied us for
what purpose it was erected. In reply he told us the
following anecdote : — Many years ago, a certain president
of the province, who was rambling in the woods in quest
of game, became lost in the dense mazes of the forest.
For three long days he wandered disconsolately about,
in vain seeking for some avenue by which he might effect
his escape. Nearly famished for want of food, hope had
almost deserted him ; when, on the morning ofthe fourth
day, a sound like that of the tinkling of a distant bell
broke upon his ear. He listened — again he heard that
cheerful sound, more clear and strong. Re-animated by
the music of the bell, he bent his steps in the direction
from whence the melody seemed to proceed, for melody
indeed it was to him. Pressing on, he at last issued
from the forest near the spot where the monument now
stands ; hence its origin.
There was quite a number of native dwellings on the

PARA. 31
Largo, and near the centre of it a pretty little church,
with a small portico built out in front. We observed
that the natives, whenever they passed this church, were
accustomed to render deference to it by falling down on
their knees and crossing themselves. To such an extent
is superstition rife in this sun-favored clime.
We at length arrived at the stone-gateway of the
Roseenia ; a slave opened the iron door and we entered.
A long avenue, formed by the overhanging of the trees
on either side, was before us, through which we saw the
dwelling-house of the garden, almost concealed by the
foliage, standing at the distance of seventy-five or a
hundred yards from us. The mansion was large, of but
one story in height, covered with earthenware tiles, and
surrounded by a wide and roof-covered veranda.
Under this commodious veranda we rested ourselves,
and regaled our palates with rare fruit plucked fresh from
the well-laden trees of the garden. We then began to
attend to domestic affairs, and much did we feel the want
of anice little ' Fayaway' to take charge of these important
matters for us. Just as we had swung our hammocks,
stowed away our provisions, and put our guns and
ammunition in readiness for immediate use, our cook
rang the bell for dinner.
" Pray, why did she not call you ?" methinks I hear
some one inquire ; well, then, it was because she could
not speak English nor we Portuguese, if you must know,
curious reader. We were obliged to communicate our

32 PARA.
ideas to her by pantomime ; and it is a great wonder to
us, now that we think of it, that we ever got anything
to eat at all. Chico was an excellent and experienced
cook ; but she was a slave, and we had hired her from
her fair mistress in the city.
Under the tuition of Chico, and the absolute necessity
which there was for us either to speak or to starve, we
began to acquire the language with amazing rapidity,
and in the course of a few weeks we were able to carry
on quite a conversation with the pretty Indian damsels,
who daily visited us at the Roscenia. The grounds of
the Roscenia were extensive and as enchanting as those
of Eden ; the garden was well supplied with the choicest
fruit-trees and with the most beautiful flowers. The walks
were wide and well-gravelled ; on either side of them
were rows of trees, bending over with the weight of their
golden and crimson fruit, thus forming a fairy-like arbor
of green throughout the entire avenue.
The variety of fruits seemed infinite. Here was a
little grove of orange-trees clustering together ; there, a
collection of guava, bacata, and ruby-tinged cashew-trees
tastefully arranged along the walk.
Delectable pine-apples also grew in the garden. This
fine fruit is called by the natives " anana." It arrives
at great perfection in the province, and is justly deemed
one of the richest of all tropical fruits. Specimens of
this fruit have been brought to the Para market weighing
near twenty pounds. So delicious is its natural flavor,

PARA. 33
and such its sweetness when perfectly ripe, that no sugar
is required in eating it. It is hardly necessary to state,
that it grows by itself on a single stem, surrounded by a
bed of large and spear-like leaves.
" Its luscious fruit Anana rears,
Amid a coronet of spears."
Perhaps the most conspicuous vegetable curiosity that
grew in the garden was the far-famed banana plant.
This shrub has been much extolled by travellers, and is
indeed a blessing to all tropical countries. It attains to
the height of from ten to twelve feet, and bears large
clusters of fruit, oftentimes weighing more than fifty
pounds. The bananas are of a yellow color when fully
ripe, and are said to possess more nutriment than any
other species of fruit. They are prepared in various
modes. Some prefer them roasted ; others, again, cut
them into slices, and fry them with butter ; but we
ourselves relish them best in their natural state, with the
addition of a little port wine and sugar, as a kind of sauce.
Eaten in this manner, they are exceedingly palatable.
Having spent a considerable portion of our first after
noon in rambling about the Roscenia, for the purpose of
making ourselves acquainted with the extent and
products of our miniature kingdom, we returned to the
house. Supper was soon prepared for us, on a small
table under the veranda. It consisted merely of bread,
2*

34 PARA.
butter, and chocolate ; yet our appetites were keen, and
we enjoyed the meal as well as if there had been a
greater variety.
Having concluded our evening meal, and being
rather fatigued with the exercise we had undergone, and
excitement we had experienced during the day, we
threw ourselves into our suspended hammocks, lighted
a choice cigar, and took a refreshing siesta. Dreamy
visions came o'er us. Here we were at last, in the
lovely land we had so long desired to see, sole tenants
of an estate, which for beauty and variety surpassed any
we had ever seen before. True, we were alone, and on
the very borders of a boundless wilderness ; but, would
we not soon find sufficient companionship in the natural
beauties by which we were surrounded, — in the trees,
the plants, the flowers ; and, most of all, the joyous,
bright-winged birds ! Before and around us, Nature
seemed clothed in her fairest charms. Gay flowers
bloomed amid the shrubbery ; birds sang and chattered
among the trees ; a solitary cocoa-nut was shaking its
plume-like branches in the sweet scented breeze, and stood
like a sentinel just before the porch. Our thoughts
wandered back to our home and friends — far — far away.
Could our friends but visit us here, but for one short
hour, how truly happy would we be ! — with what delight
would they enter the iron gateway! — how fascinated
would they be with the beauty of the garden ! — how
like Paradise would everything appear ! — and with what

PARA. 35
ecstasy would we receive them ! All this passed through
our minds as we lay swinging in our hammocks, under
the tree-shaded veranda of Nazere.
Awaking from the stupor into which we had fallen,
we perceived that the sun had just gone down, leaving a
delicate tinge of gold along the western horizon ; the
stars were beginning to gleam in the cloudless sky
above, and to illumine with a mellow light the bewitching
garden around us. Silence reigned, giving solemnity to
the beauteous scene.
On the following morning we were aroused from our
slumbers at least an hour before sunrise by the noisy
chattering of the birds in the vicinity of the house. We
accoutred ourselves speedily in our shooting costume,
drank a cup of strong coffee, and sallied forth, in company
with an Indian guide, on our first hunting expedition in
a tropical forest.
We had advanced a considerable distance in the woods,
when the sun arose from his golden couch in the east,
and shed a flood of light over the sylvan landscape. The
dew glittered like jewels on the leaves ; insects began to
animate the atmosphere, and gorgeous-plumaged birds
to fly from tree to tree. The path we had taken was
extremely narrow, and so choked up with weeds and
running vines, that we were obliged to cut a passage
before us with our " tracados," or wood-knives, as we
slowly and cautiously proceeded. These long knives are

absolutely indispensable to one travelling in a Brazilian
forest ; in fact, everybody you meet with, blacks, Indians,
women, and children, are provided with them.
Stopping now and then for a moment, to shoot a
" toucan," or other brilliant bird that attracted our notice,
we at last arrived at an old and dilapidated estate,
literally buried in the wilderness. Here was a vast ruin
of solid stone, which had evidently been once a splendid
building, of superior architecture. It was overgrown
with moss and creeping vines, and tenanted only by bats
and venomous reptiles ; yet it was majestic and interest
ing even in its decay. Concerning the origin of this
strange building we were never able to ascertain anything
of a satisfactory nature. Some suppose it was the
residence of a certain nobleman, by the name of
Chermont; others, that it was a kind of fortification;
while many think that it was one of the religious
institutions of the Jesuits, who were quite numerous in
the province many years ago. But these are nothing
more than surmises. The truth is, there is a mystery
hanging over it which no one has ever been able to
unravel, and which will undoubtedly remain a mystery
for ever ! We spent an hour or more in examining the
ruin, and were rewarded for our researches by finding
several new and valuable shells, wHich we carefully
preserved. Leaving this place, we next visited the "Pedrara,"

37

another estate several miles distant, situated, too, in the
midst of the forest. Here we found a thriving garden,
and a pleasant-looking farm-house, the inmates of which
received us very hospitably. Joaquim, our Indian guide,
in conversing with the proprietor of the house, took my
gun from my hand, for the purpose of pointing out to
him its peculiar advantages and virtues. In so doing he
carelessly raised the hammer, which immediately slipped
from his grasp, and the gun, which was well charged at
the time with coarse shot, exploded, lodging its contents
in the side of the building, — fortunately, however, no
one was injured. Soon after this occurrence, our kind
host placed before us several kinds of fruit, and a bowl
of refreshing beverage prepared from the cocoa fruit,
with which we heartily regaled ourselves. We then
bade our entertainer and his pretty daughters " adeos,"
and proceeded back towards the Roscenia.
As we were sauntering along the arched avenues
leading through the forest, and listening attentively to
the notes of curious birds, we heard a loud chattering in
one of the trees over our heads. Looking upwards, we
perceived two large monkeys on the very top of a pro
digiously tall tree. No sooner did the animals see us
than they hid themselves so completely in the thick
foliage that it was impossible for us to discern them at
all. We fired several shots up into the tree, but with
out any manifest effect. At last our Indian guide,

38

perceiving that all other means would be useless, came
to the deliberate determination of climbing the tree.
Encircling the trunk, like the folds of a serpent, was an
enormous winding vine, which ran up into the topmost
branches. This species of vine has been called by
travellers, " the monkey's ladder." Having stripped to
the buff, Joaquim took my double-barrelled gun in his
hand, and by means of the " ladder " began to ascend
the tree with the ease and agility of a squirrel. We
watched his progress with the greatest anxiety, for it
appeared to us an experiment hazardous in the extreme ;
but he bravely and nimbly continued his dangerous
ascent, and finally waved his hand in triumph from the
summit of the lofty tree. New difficulties now beset
him, — the branches were so closely matted together that
he was severely scratched by their sharp points, and it
was some time before he could get himself and gun in
manageable order for attacking the garrulous animals.
Succeeding in securing a safe position in a notch of the
tree, he got a glimpse of the monkeys, away out on the
extremity of a long branch, almost hid from view by the
thickness of the leaves. Raising his gun, he took steady
aim, and two startling reports, quickly succeeding each
other, broke suddenly upon the stillness of the forest.
The two monkeys fell, with a heavy crash, lifeless to the
ground. They were large specimens, of a silvery-grey
color. Having picked them up, we waited until Joaquim

PARA. 39
had descended from the tree, and then proceeded on
our way.
It was mid-day when we reached Nazere. Eagerly
we sought the cool shades of the Roscenia, and in the
evening refreshed ourselves with a delicious bath in a
neighboring stream.

40

CHAPTER IV.
Old Vincenti and Maria. — Castigation of a Woman. — Visitors at
Nazere. — Our Neighbors. — Feathered Companions. — Tame
Macaw. — Depredation of the Ants. — A nocturnal Visit from
them. — The Largo by Moonlight.
There was a venerable old slave at the Roscenia, by the
name of Vincenti, who made himself very useful to us,
and added considerably to our amusement, by his
eccentricities and peculiarities. He had lived on the
place for more than thirty years, and was well acquainted
with every variety of bird, insect, and reptile that was
to be found in its vicinity. Scarcely a day passed by
without his bringing us several specimens of lizards,
beetles, or centipedes. The latter were quite numerous
in the garden ; and I remember one evening that we
caught two of these many-legged " monsters " crawling
leisurely about the floor of our sleeping apartment. They
were at least eight inches in length, and as ugly-looking
fellows of the kind as I ever saw. We succeeded in
capturing them by the aid of a long pair of pincers, and
in putting them alive into a bottle of alcohol for preserva
tion ; and we have them to this day in our cabinet,
" spiritual " mementos of the past.

41

But, to proceed. It seems that old Vincenti, notwith
standing his age and manifold infirmities, had some of
the fire of youth still burning in his veins. Living with
him was a very good-looking mulatto woman, by the
name of Maria, who could not have been more than
twenty-five years of age, while Vincenti himself had seen
above sixty. How the old fellow ever prevailed on her,
a free woman, to live with him, will ever remain to us a
sealed mystery. Although they had never been married,
yet no husband was ever more affectionate than Vincenti,
or wife more loving than Maria. The latter was daily
accustomed to go to the city for provisions, and some
times she took her place among the fruit-vendors of the
market. One day, however, she did not return to the
Roscenia. Vincenti was quite uneasy, and thought
something serious must have happened. A week passed
by ; but still no news from Maria. At length, dreadful
suspicions began to flash over old Vincenti, and fierce
jealousy to agitate his mind. One morning, as we were
sipping our coffee under the veranda, the shrieks of a
woman, as if in distress, fell upon our ears. Suspecting
the cause, we rushed immediately to the little dwelling
of Vincenti, and there found him, as we had anticipated,
beating Maria, his prodigal mistress, in a most unmerci
ful manner. He was furious with anger ; but we
expostulated with him, and having prevailed on him to
discontinue the castigation, we succeeded in effecting a
reconciliation between the parties, — and all this with a

42

scanty knowledge of the language, rendered intelligible
only by the pantomime with which we accompanied it.
In a few hours Vincenti and his buxom consort were
again in fellowship with each other, and as happy and
contented as in days of yore. Thus do pleasant calms
succeed the severest storms !
The visitors to Nazere were numerous, and we had no
lack of society. At the close of every day our hunters
would come in, bringing with them singular animals and
beautiful birds, which they had killed in the forest.
Frequently they would spend the evening with us, giving
us an account of the wonders and curiosities of the
surrounding wild woods. On Sundays many persons
generally came out from the city, and the military
paraded on the Largo in front of the Roscenia. Our
neighbors were mostly blacks and Indians. Among the
latter, two pretty maids, Mariquinha and Lorena, were
our especial favorites. These were young and charming
Mamelukes, or half-breeds, with dark eyes, luxuriant hair,
and light-olive complexions. To tell the truth, I believe
we were principally indebted to these lovely damsels
for the rapid proficiency which we made in the
language. But I must not forget to mention the feathered com
panions who shared with us the pleasures of Nazere.
These consisted of several domesticated parrots, a pair of
roseate spoonbills, and a solitary macaw. The last-named
bird was a very gorgeous fellow, with a handsome tail,

PARA. 43
above two feet in length, beautifully marked with blue
and red. During the day he was accustomed to spend
many of the hours in rambling through the embowered
avenues of the garden, and in climbing successively the
different fruit-trees, which were drooping with the weight
of their red and yellow fruit. But, whenever he heard
our voices calling him, he instantly abandoned the
sweetest orange or most delicious guava, to make his
appearance before us. He was an awkward bird in his
motions, and occasioned us a great deal of merriment.
It was enough to disturb the gravity of a confirmed
misanthrope to see our macaw perambulating by himself
around the piazza of Nazere.
Whenever the bell rang for either breakfast or dinner,
Mr. Macaw immediately wended his way to the banquet-
table, and having perched himself upon the back of one
of the chairs, waited patiently for the arrival of us — his
humble servants. In justice to his memory, be it said,
that he always conducted himself with perfect decorum
while at table, and never on any occasion made any sud
den onslaught upon the viands which were laid out
in tempting array before him.
One day an Indian brought us a live coral snake, the
fangs of which had been carefully extracted. The reptile
was about three feet in length, and was regularly banded
with alternate rings of black, scarlet, and yellow. If the
idea of " beautiful" can be associated with a snake, then
did this one well deserve the qualification, for a more

44

striking combination of colors I think I never saw. For
the sake of security, we put the animal in a small
wooden box, and placed it in one of the corners of
the room where we slept. One night while we were
asleep, the animal forced off the top of the box in which
he was confined, and, in travelling about, at last found
his way into the cook's room. Aroused by her screams,
we hastened to her apartment and soon discovered
the cause of her alarm. But the animal had escaped
through a crevice in the floor, and we never saw his
snakeship again.
We experienced a great deal of annoyance from
the ants at Nazere. These insects swarm in myriads in
the forest, and may be seen crawling on the ground
wherever you may happen to be. They subserve a very
useful purpose in the wise economy of nature, by pre
venting the natural decay and putrefaction of vegetable
matter, so particularly dangerous in tropical regions ; but
at the same time they are a serious drawback to the
prosecution of agricultural pursuits in the torrid zone.
Flourishing plantations are sometimes entirely destroyed
by these insects, and we ourselves have seen a beautiful
orange tree one day blooming in the greatest luxuriance,
and on the next perfectly leafless and bare !
Nothing is more interesting than to see an army
of ants engaged in divesting a tree of its foliage. In
doing so, they manifest an intuitive system and order
which is truly surprising. A regular file is continually

45

ascending on one side of the trunk, while another is
descending on the opposite side, each one of the ants
bearing a piece of a leaf of the size of a sixpence in
his mouth. A large number appear to be stationed
among the upper branches, for the sole purpose of biting
off the stems of the leaves, and thus causing them to fall
to the ground. At the foot of the tree is another depart
ment, whose business is evidently that of cutting the fallen
leaves into small pieces for transportation. A long
procession is kept constantly marching, laden with the
leaves. Mr. Kidder states that some years ago the ants entered
one ofthe convents at Maranham, who not only devoured
the drapery of the altars, but also descended into the
graves beneath the floor and brought up several small
pieces of linen from the shrouds of the dead ; for this
offence the friars commenced an ecclesiastical prosecu
tion, the result of which, however, we did not ascertain.
Mr. Southey says, in relation to these destructive insects,
" that having been convicted in a similar suit at the
Franciscan convent at Avignon, they were not only
excommunicated from the Roman Catholic church, but
were sentenced by the friars to a place of removal within
three days, to a place assigned them in the centre of the
earth. The canonical account gravely adds, that the ants
obeyed, and carried away all their young and all their
stores !"
Concerning the ants, however, we have a story of our

46 PARA.
own to tell. The occurrence took place at Nazere,
and was in this wise. One night while indulging in
delightful dreams, I was suddenly awakened by my amia
ble companion, who affirmed that something was biting
him severely — he knew not what.
In the deep silence of our lonely apartment we
heard distinctly a sound like that of a continual
dropping upon the floor. We were uncertain from
what it proceeded, but I more than half suspected the
true cause, but said nothing to my companion ; on
the contrary, I even endeavored to convince him that the
biting of which he complained was only imaginary. The
reality, however, of his sufferings made him proof against
any such conviction, and he forthwith arose and lighted
a lamp. Its glimmering rays shed a feeble light over
the apartment, but sufficient to disclose a spectacle such
as we hope never to see again. The floor itself was
literally black with ants ; and our clothes, which were
hanging on a line stretched across the room, were alive
with them. It was in vain for us to attempt to remove
them, so we removed ourselves, and spent the remainder
of the night swinging in our hammocks under the
veranda !
Green and golden hued lizards were also numerous at
the Roscenia, and we frequently saw them in the midst
of the walk, basking in the warm sunshine, their glow
ing tints rivalling in lustre the bright enamel of the
flowers. They were innocent creatures, and so exceed-

PARA. 47
ingly timid that we found it almost impossible to catch
them alive.
On one side of the entrance gate of the garden, was a
small " summer house," from which an excellent view of
the Largo was presented. Nothing could exceed the
romantic beauty of this extensive plot of ground by moon
light ! A wild forest rises up around, while tall palms
stand like faithful sentinels watching over the lovely
scene ! The little church, solitary and lone, fills the mind
of the beholder with solemn associations ; the low dwell
ings of the natives, shaded by overhanging trees, add to
the strangeness of the landscape ; and the " southern
cross," gleaming in the clear starry firmament above,
brings to mind the immense distance of home, and -
impresses the wanderer with emotions of awe and subli
mity such as no pen can adequately describe !

48 PARA.

CHAPTER V.
Life at Nazere. — Our favorite hunter, Joaquim. — The Garden by
Moonlight. — The Climate. — Its Purity and Healthfulness. —
The wet and dry Seasons. — A caterwauling Serenader. — An
Alarm. — An extraordinary Visit. — Our Departure from
Nazere.
Noiselessly and quickly the hours sped on ! — weeks
rapidly elapsed! — and still we lingered amid the de
lightful shades of Nazere !
Hunting was our principal amusement, and hardly a
day passed by without our engaging in it. Many were
the rich plumaged birds that we killed, while wandering
amid their own beautiful haunts, ; many the curious
animals that met with a speedy death from our trusty
guns ; and by no means few the number of bright-hued
serpents and horrible looking reptiles that we caught
crawling through the tall grass, or stealing beneath the
thick shrubbery of the forest !
Our excursions were always -Undertaken early in the
morning. Before the sun had shed his first beams over
the enchanting scenery of the garden, we were always up
and accoutred for our daily hunt.

49

Our Indian hunter, Joaquim, generally accompanied
us, and grateful are we to him for the many sporting
tactics into which he initiated us, and for the possession
of many splendid and rare birds, whicli we should not
probably have procured without his assistance. He was
quite young, being not more than nineteen or twenty
years of age, of light olive complexion, a perfect Apollo
in form, and a model of a sportsman in every sense of
the word. The slightest sound never failed to catch his
attentive ear — in a moment he knew from what kind of
a bird or animal it proceeded, and prepared himself for
instantaneous action. So delicately would he move
onward towards his prey, scarcely touching the ground
with his uncovered feet ; crouching so skilfully beneath
the clustering bushes as hardly to occasion the vibration
of a single leaf ; and without any intimation being given
to the unfortunate bird or animal of his approach ;
having once fixed his eye upon his victim, escape was
useless — death was certain ! Raising his light flint-lock
gun with quickness to his eye, his aim was sure, and the
startling report which followed was the inevitable death-
knell of his prey.
While in the forest, Joaquim wore no clothing save a
pair of coarse pantaloons — a common powder-horn was
strung around his symmetrical neck — a small pouch of
shot was suspended from his waist ; in his right hand
was his long knife, in his left his faithful gun, and this
was his entire equipment. 3

50 PARA.
We seldom spent more than one or two hours in the
woods in the morning ; returning to the Roscenia, we
regaled ourselves with an excellent breakfast under the
veranda, rendered the more delectable from the exercise
we had taken, and the circumstances under which we
despatched it.
After this meal, the next operation was to skin and
preserve the best specimens of the gay-plumaged birds
we had killed in the forest. For this purpose, my
amiable companion was wont to seat himself at a long
table, on the eastern side of the building, where he
prepared the specimens with the skill of an experienced
artist. The bodies were first taken out, a little arsenic
then sprinkled on the surface of the skin, and, lastly,
the skins were filled out with cotton to their natural size,
then put into proper shape and placed on a board, in an
exposed situation, to dry.
A paradise, indeed, was the Roscenia de Nazere by
moonlight ! — a second Eden ! — but alas ! without an
Eve ! So numerous were the trees of the garden that
they constituted a fairy-like grove, and so thickly matted
together were the branches overhead that the moonbeams
fell like a shower of gold through the foliage. The
bright birds might be heard chanting their vespers
among the trees, while hundreds of singing insects were
buzzing in every bush. The air itself was redolent with
the sweetest perfume, and we, perhaps, were enjoying the
lovely evening under the veranda of the cottage either

51

in talking with our hunters, or the pretty Indian maids,
who haunted with their presence the flowery shades of
our beautiful garden.
All our moments were replete with enjoyment. We
were quite happy ! — and why should we not be, living
together in such a romantic and charming spot, where
the flowers bloomed throughout the year, and where
everything appeared to be animated with beauty,
perfume, and song ? Besides, the climate was of such
exceeding purity, so aromatic with the incense of flowers,
and of such delicious blandness, that it was truly a
luxury to breathe it. Consumption, with all her
kindred and accompanying evils, has never, as yet,
invaded this mild atmosphere ; and more than this, even
coughs and common colds are almost entirely unknown.
All diseases which owe their origin to changes of
temperature cannot be engendered here, for the variation
does not amount to more than twenty degrees from the
commencement of the year to its close ; ninety degrees
being the maximum, and seventy the minimum tem
perature, according to just and careful experiments that
have been made with the thermometer.
Without reference to temperature, the year is, in the
province of Para, about equally divided into two seasons,
namely, the wet and dry. The former commences
about the middle of December and may be said to
extend to the middle of June, although from the first of
March the rains gradually decrease. Throughout the

52

rainy season severe showers fall daily, seldom occurring,
however, before three o'clock in the afternoon. They are
usually accompanied by bright lightning and terrific
thunder, and continue from one to three hours. The
rain comes down with such extraordinary violence, and
in such great quantities, that one who had never
witnessed a storm in the tropics, would be astonished
beyond measure, and filled with emotions of wonder, if
not of sublimity.
During the period extending from the middle of June
to the middle of December, and which has been called
" the dry season " comparatively little rain falls in the city,
while in some of the neighboring islands it hardly falls
at all. The reason why the rains are more frequent in
the city is undoubtedly owing to its superior elevation,
as well as its location near the mouths of several tributary
rivers. Even on the islands, where showers fall so
seldom, vegetation flourishes most luxuriantly, the
copious dews affording that nourishment to the
plants and flowers which the clouds of heaven deny
them. The rainy season had just set in when we arrived at
Nazere. On account of the sandy state of the soil, we
could not have established ourselves at a better place ;
for here, one hour of sunshine never failed to erase all
traces of the heaviest rains.
No danger need be apprehended from sleeping in the
open air in this delicious climate at any period of the

53

year. Indeed, we ourselves have frequently passed the
night in our hammocks, swung under the commodious
veranda of the cottage at the Roscenia, without sustain
ing the slightest injury.
Our slumbers at Nazere were sound and refreshing.
True, we slept little for the first few nights, owing to the
nocturnal serenades of an old tomcat ; but we doubt
whether anybody, of any nerves at all, could have slept
better under similar circumstances. We really had
some thoughts of resorting to narcotics for relief ! We
were provoked, irritated, and at last became desperate.
"That villanous cat shall die," exclaimed J., in a
passion. " What, with all his sins on his head !" said I ; " pray,
give him some little time for repentance !"
" Not a single day, by heaven !" replied my com
panion ; " he shall die to-morrow !"
On the following morning we observed the doomed
grimalkin quietly reposing on a little grassy knoll within
a short distance of the house. Now was the time ! But
feeling some reluctance to be the perpetrators of the
murderous deed ourselves, we called upon Joaquim to
do the business for us.
He willingly assented. Having loaded his gun, he
stationed himself within a suitable distance, took delibe
rate aim, and fired. A horrible shriek — most heart
rending and awful — immediately broke upon our ears.
But when the smoke had cleared away, no cat, living or

54 PARA.
dead, was to be seen. He had vanished in the adjacent
thicket. Two weeks passed by, and our nights continued to be
undisturbed. "We felt certain that our tormentor was
numbered among the dead. But what was our astonish
ment one morning, while we were seated under the
veranda, to see this diabolical cat enter the gateway
before us, and advance with a downcast, saddened, and
repentant air, up towards the house.
" Verily," said J., " I have always heard that a cat had
nine lives, now I believe it."
We were slightly infuriated at first, and determined
to make one more effort to rid ourselves of this cater
wauling monster, but as soon as our wrath had some
what abated, we came to the merciful conclusion of
" putting him on his good behavior " for a " little
season," and, strange to say, he never serenaded us

A little circumstance occurred one evening that gave
us some alarm. My companion had gone to the city,
and^ was left entirely alone at the Roscenia. While
reading a book under the veranda, by the feeble light
of a single lamp, I was suddenly addressed by a strange
voice, and looking up, I beheld a black fellow that I had
never seen before, standing at my elbow.
" Senhor," said he, " load your gun, and lock up the
house, for there are robbers concealed in the garden."
Saying this, he disappeared so quickly that I did not

PARA. 55
have time to make any inquiries of him concerning his
startling narration. Whether to believe the black or not
I hardly knew, but as I could not imagine any other
motive to have prompted him than a desire to put us on
our guard, it appeared probable that he had given
correct information. I therefore loaded my " revolver,"
and with it in one hand, and my sharp wood-knife in
the other, I anxiously awaited the arrival of my com
panion. It was about midnight when he reached the
Roscenia, and of course he was much surprised when I
had related to him all that had taken place.
The night passed by — no robbers made their appear
ance — and I never afterwards saw the black who had in
such a mysterious manner warned me of impending
danger. This was the only incident that occasioned us
the slightest uneasiness during our entire stay at the
Roscenia — moreover, we did not meet with a single
accident. Sunday was the most noisy day of the week with us.
On this day we had numerous visitors from the city ;
some of whom came out to the Roscenia for sporting
purposes, keeping up a continual firing in the garden
from morning until night. There is no day set apart for
religious purposes in Para. Sunday is a perfect holiday,
and is more particularly marked by revelry and dissipa
tion than by morality and sacred observances. Every
Sabbath morning the Largo de Nazere was the scene of
a military display, performed by a brilliant cavalcade of

56

gaily-dressed officers and mounted citizens. After going
through with a series of military evolutions on the largo,
they often stopped at the Roscenia, for the purpose of
refreshing themselves with fruit and wine. They were a
gay and apparently happy set of fellows, very gentle
manly in their bearing, and animated and cheerful in
conversation. Politeness to strangers is one of the striking character
istics not only of the people of Para, but of the Portu
guese in general. Almost everybody you meet in
the street, provided you have a gentlemanly appearance,
will offer you the deference of taking off his hat, and at
the same time saluting you with the popular expression,
Viva, senhor ! or " Long live, sir !" Besides this, the
Brazilians are more hospitable and social than they have
ever had credit for in the books of travellers. The rea
son, probably, why they have been considered so distant
and reserved in their manners towards foreigners, is on
account of their general ignorance of all languages but
their own. Those at Para who could speak English we
found to be exceedingly sociable and friendly, and dis
posed to render us any assistance we desired.
Having been at Nazere nearly two months, we began
to think seriously of taking our departure. We had
made a collection of almost all the birds and animals
to be found in its vicinty, besides many extraordi
nary insects and curious shells. Need it be said, then,
that we had become exceedingly attached to the Ros-

PARA. 57
cenia, and looked forward to the period of leaving it with
a kind of melancholy reluctance mingled with sadness
and gloom.
A few days before our departure we were honored
with a visit of so singular a character that we cannot for
bear giving the reader a description of it. It was quite
early one morning that a large and motley assemblage of
individuals halted before the gateway of the Roscenia.
What they were, or for what purpose they came, we
could not surmise. They were so ceremonious as to send
a young man in advance to solicit permission for them to
enter. We did not hesitate to grant the request, and
soon discovered that our worthy visitors constituted
nothing less than a religious body, who had come out
to the Largo de Nazere in order to procure donations
for the benefit of the Roman Catholic church — a small
pecuniary offering being expected from everybody.
The whole number of persons who entered the Ros
cenia could not have been less than forty or fifty, — of
which number at least one half' were women and chil
dren. In front of all marched half-a-dozen priests or
padres, dressed in flowing scarlet gowns, bearing large
sun-shades of dazzling red silk, suspended over their
heads. After these came a group of bright-eyed dam
sels, crowned with garlands of flowers, and profusely
decorated with golden chains and glittering trinkets.
In the rear of all were a number of young children
sporting with each other in all the freedom of inno-
3*

58 PARA.
cence and nudity combined. With huge bouquets of
splendid flowers in their hands, they looked like a
band of little Cupids about to render homage at the
court of Flora.
One of the damsels bearing a handsomely-carved
salver of solid silver, presented it to us for the pur
pose of receiving our donations. Unfortunately we
had but very little of the circulating medium on hand
— merely a few vintens — all of which we threw at
once upon the silver plate. Our pecuniary resources
being now completely exhausted, judge of our con
sternation when the plate was handed to us a second
time for further contributions.
I now threw a bunch of cigars on the plate, and
the result was just such as I had anticipated. Instead
of taking the slightest offence at what I had done,
they seized the cigars with eagerness, and I was
obliged to distribute all I had in the house among
them, before they would be satisfied. The cigars being
exhausted, wine was asked for, with which we pro
ceeded to supply them. But, alas ! what were the
two gallons of port we had purchased the day before
towards satisfying such a thirsty crowd ?
Before taking leave of us, a sweet little maiden handed
me a miniature image of some one of the favorite
saints, which she desired me to kiss. I took the image,
and proceeded to do so as she requested ; but by some
unaccountable mistake I missed the image, and im-

PARA. 59
pressed a warm kiss upon the pouting lips of the
youthful damsel — a sacrilege, indeed! for which I
atoned by kissing the image many times ! It is to be
hoped that the reader will be as lenient and forgiv
ing towards the writer for this misdeed as was the
pretty maiden herself.
Shortly after this the whole party withdrew, with
many thanks and benedictions, leaving us in a most
deplorable condition ; all our provisions being eaten,
our wine drunk, and our cigars smoked.
We were sad, indeed, when we took our final leave
of Nazere. It was on a mild and sunny afternoon,
and all around was quiet and serene. No sounds broke
upon the stillness, save the rustling of the leaves, the
murmur of the insects, and the chattering of birds.
Our thoughts harmonized with the plaintiveness of
the scene ; for we remembered that we were relin
quishing for ever the blissful garden where we had
whiled away so many pleasant hours.
Strolling slowly on towards the city, we frequently
stopped for a few moments by the way, to exchange
salutations with our Indian neighbors, and to tender
to all the pretty maidens our parting adieux. Joaquim
accompanied us as far as the Largo de Palvora, where,
after shaking us each heartily by the hand, while a
tear stood in his noble eye, he bade us farewell. We
were extremely sorry to lose so valuable a hunter, and
in testimony of our esteem and appreciation of the

60 PARA.
services he had rendered us, we presented him with
a single barrelled gun, which we had purchased for
him in the city.
It was near sunset when we arrived at Mr. Camp
bell's house, a lofty stone dwelling, with balconies
fronting each of the upper windows. Here we in
tended remaining for the ensuing week ; at the expir
ation of which time we proposed making an excur
sion to Caripe, a neglected though beautiful estate,
situated on a small island within twenty miles of
Para.

PARA. 61

CHAPTER VI.
The City. — Its Appearance and Population.— State of Society. —
The Padres, or Priests. — Professional Beggars. — The Etiquette
of Dress. — " Festa de Nazere."
A very strange-looking city is Para, with its low white
washed dwellings covered with earthenware tiles ; its
lofty commercial buildings, with little balconies jutting
out towards the street ; its dark-walled churches, with
their towering spires ; its gardens, teeming with all the
beauty and variety of tropical vegetation, and its swarthy
inhabitants, differing as much in their complexions, as
the birds of the forest vary in the tints of their plumage.
As no regular census has ever been taken in the city,
it is impossible to state with accuracy the amount of the
population ; the number, however, cannot be less than
fifteen thousand. That of the whole province has been
supposed to be about two hundred and fifty thousand,
including the blacks and Indians, who compose by far
the greater part of this number.
The chief executive of the province is termed a
" presidente," and receives his appointment direct from
the emperor.

62 PARA.
In the selection of officials no regard whatever is paid
to color. The president himself was a woolly-headed
mulatto, and, not only that, but ¦ he was reputed to be
the son of a padre; and, as the padres are excluded
from matrimony by the statutes, his genealogy certainly
cannot be of the most honorable character.
All are obliged to do military duty at Para ; none are
exempted from this service but padres and slaves ; and,
as the duty is very onerous, it becomes quite desirable to
assume the garb of a priest. Consequently, it is not so
much to be wondered at that the number of these " pious
and highly-favored individuals " in the city alone
amounts to several hundreds.
" But how, under heavens, do so many of them earn
a livelihood ?" methinks I hear the reader exclaim.
This, doubtless, would be difficult indeed, in such a
heathen community, by the practice of the principles of
religion and virtue alone. To tell the truth, they do not
earn their living by the practice, but by the " practices "
of their profession. Superstition aids them in the
imposition by which they ensnare the unsuspecting
natives, and wring from them the earnings of their
industry and labor.
The most profitable branch of their profession is that
of consecrating small stones, shells, and other articles of
trifling value, and then vending them to the natives at
enormous sums, as sovereign charms against certain
diseases or evil spirits. We noticed that every black or

PARA. 63
Indian we encountered in the streets, had more or less
of these baubles strung about his neck. Even Chico,
our invaluable cook at Nazere, had at least a dozen of
them, for which she had paid as many dollars, and
sincerely believed in their power of warding off the
different evils for which they were severally intended.
Whenever one of these " holy trifles " is found in the
streets, it is carried immediately by the finder to one of
the churches, and there suspended on a certain door, where
the original owner may, in his search, recover it again.
The churches are of large size, and constructed of
solid stone. They are destitute of pews, have several
richly carved altars, and are profusely ornamented with
pictures and gorgeously dressed images of the saints.
The cathedral is one of the largest edifices in the empire.
It has two steeples, well supplied with bells, whose
sonorous chiming may be heard at all hours of the day.
The president's palace is also a stupendous pile, but it
displays but little architectural skill or taste in its
construction. It was built more than a century ago,
when Portugal was looking anxiously forward to this
province as the seat of the national government of the
empire. The old convents, which at one time were very
numerous, are now reduced to two or three of the
Franciscan order. The building in which the assembly
of deputies hold their sessions, was once a convent of the
Carmelites. These deputies are chosen by the people,

64 PARA.
but all of their acts, however, have to be 'referred to
Rio Janeiro for confirmation.
On account of the revolutionary spirit of the people,
a large military force of regular troops is distributed
throughout the province. The number in the city alone
cannot be less than eight hundred or a thousand. At all
the important posts of the city, such as the palace, cus
tom-house, and arsenal, guards are stationed, who may
be seen walking about listlessly during the day, with
huge muskets on their shoulders, or stretched out before
the doorway itself, in a state of half intoxication and
repose. On a certain evening, it is said, that as an ine
briated Yankee sailor was perambulating the streets of
the city, serenading the inhabitants as he reeled along,
he was suddenly hailed by one of the custom-house
guards, as he was making a short tack to carry him
self past that establishment, with " Quem vai la ?"
(who goes there?) to which question the customary
reply is, "Amigo" (a friend). Our hero, however, not
understanding a single word of the Portuguese lan
guage, had no idea of the interrogatory that had been
put to him by the guard — in fact he was quite indig
nant that any one should have the impertinence to
address him in such an authoritative manner, and
therefore cried out in a stentorian voice, which was
audible at a distance of several hundred yards — "You
 screaming Portuguese son of a gun, stop your
confounded noise, or I'll send you to  ." Perceiv-

65

ing that the marine was somewhat exhilarated, and not
knowing but the reply he had made was to the effect
that he did not understand the language, he was per
mitted to pass on without any further molestation.
The Brazilians are noted for the kindness which
they exercise towards their slaves, and this is parti
cularly the case at Para. They are here treated with
extraordinary clemency by their masters, and but little
labor comparatively is required of them. Having per
formed the usual amount of work that is assigned
them, they are allowed the residue of the day for their
own special advantage, the proceeds of which go
towards purchasing their freedom. Even their mas
ters remunerate them for whatever work they perform
beyond that regularly allotted them. Instances of
singular generosity towards the slaves occur frequently
at Para. A Scotch gentleman, well known for his
liberality and many good qualities, loaned to a cer
tain slave of an enterprising turn of mind, an amount
sufficient to purchase the freedom of himself and
family. Godolphus (for this was the name of the
slave,) was a noble fellow, and as much esteemed as
any one could be, occupying his lowly condition.
Having acquired his liberty, a new course of life
opened before him. By dint of industry and perse
verance, he finally became the leader of a large company
of ganhadores, and began to accumulate money very
rapidly. For a black, his reputation was wonderful.

66

Whenever a number of men were required to load a
vessel or to perform any operation which called for the
exercise of physical strength, the applicants were always
referred to Godolphus, who furnished immediately what
ever number of men might be desired. Prosperity and
happiness smiled upon him, and in less than two^
years he paid off the entire sum that his kind-hearted
benefactor had loaned him. Godolphus became known
and respected by everybody ! His heart bounded with
joy ! — for he was released from servile bondage for ever
— he was a slave no more !
The beggars of Para are so numerous that they
may be said to constitute a distinct class of society
by themselves. On account of their great numbers
they are only permitted to make their professional
visits on Saturday. On this day the streets literally
swarm with them. Some have bandages round their
heads ; others have their arms suspended in slings ;
while many are afflicted with blindness, and divers
other maladies, which we will not take upon our
selves to mention.
The wealthier people are disposed to be charitable
towards these poor mendicants, and no one thinks of
refusing them a weekly trifle. Should a person be so
unwise as to do so, instead of a blessing and a score
of thanks, he would probably be saluted with a shower
of reproaches, accompanied with imprecations and epi
thets of a highly derogatory character.

PARA. 67
The blacks of Para have regular features, and are
in some instances very good looking — the mulattoes
are quite comely — the cafusas (a mixture of Indian
and black) are very animated, having the features of
the former, and the curly hair of the latter — the Por
tuguese and native Brazilians are generally pretty ; but
to our taste, the Mamulukes or half-breed Indian girls,
with their dark eyes, luxuriant hair, and olive com
plexions, were decidedly the most beautiful and interest
ing ! The women make use of no more clothing than
is absolutely necessary ; and the children of both sexes
may be seen running about the streets continually
in a state of utter nudity. The men, on ordinary
occasions, wear white pantaloons and frock coats, or
blouses of the same material. But no person is con
sidered in full dress, unless he is habited in black
from head to foot.
Whenever a person is invited to a select dinner
party, it is always expected that he should make his
appearance in a coat of sable cloth ; but, immediately
on his arrival, he is invited to take it off, and offered
one of fine linen as a substitute. This custom is
founded on correct principles, and always meets with
the entire satisfaction of strangers. The less restraint
that is put upon a person in the mastication of a meal,
the more cheerful and animated will be his conversa
tion, the more pungent his wit, the more hearty his
jokes, and the more perfect and satisfactory his digestion !

68

The greater portion of the white inhabitants of the
city are Portuguese ; and their language is the one
that is principally, if not universally spoken through
out the province. It is soft and musical, and is
acquired by foreigners with extraordinary facility. The
English and American residents are sufficient in num
ber to form an excellent society in themselves, and
are all extensively engaged in commercial transactions
with their respective countries.
The festivals at Para are numerous, and appear to be
well suited to the romantic beauty of the country, and
superstitious character of the inhabitants. Almost
every other day is the anniversary of some distin
guished saint, and is celebrated with all the pomp
and magnificence of the country. The bells are kept
ringing throughout the day — a gorgeous procession
moves through the narrow streets, and the evening is
consecrated by dancing, fireworks, and illuminations.
The most remarkable holiday season that is observed
in the province is termed the " Festa de Nazere." This
great festival takes place either in September or October,
according to the state of the moon, the light of that lumi
nary being indispensable on this occasion. The usual
period of its continuance is about two weeks, during
which time the stores in the city are closed, and business
almost entirely suspended. All take part in the festivi
ties, both the old and the young, the rich and the poor ;
and for weeks previous preparations are made, and nothing

PARA. 69
is talked of but the delights and pleasures ofthe approach
ing season. The wealthy contribute large sums in clean
ing and beautifying the grounds, and in erecting tem
porary habitations for themselves and families to occupy
during the period ofthe feast.
The poor expend whatever they may have amassed by
months of untiring labor, in purchasing gala dresses and
ornaments. An intense excitement prevails among all
classes, such as those only who have witnessed it can pos
sibly realize.
The origin of the feast was given me by a venerable
old man in nearly the following words : —
" Many years ago, as a certain horseman was riding on
the flowery plains of Portugal, he perceived a nimble
deer gracefully gliding over the grassy meadow, a long
way off before him. In a moment he ' dashed the rowels
in his steed,' and was bounding over the plain in eager
pursuit of his intended victim. Like an arrow from a
bow, the ill-fated deer continued his rapid flight, but not
withstanding all his efforts, every moment brought his
pursuer nearer. The eyes of the horseman were so
intensely fixed upon the animal that he was wholly
regardless of all else than the possession of his prey, and
this single object filled and engrossed all his faculties.
Danger was near, but being unconscious of it, he pressed
recklessly on ; at last the deer arrived at the brink of an
unseen precipice, and plunged headlong into the abyss
beneath. The horseman, who was but a short distance

70

behind, followed with lightning-like rapidity onward —
and only when within a few feet of the verge was he
aroused to a sense of the awfulness of his situation. It
was a critical and a solemn moment ! — all human aid
was vain ! This the rider knew, but still his courage did
not forsake him, even in the presence of the impending
catastrophe ; raising his arms imploringly towards heaven,
he inwardly murmured, Santa Maria, salve me (holy
Mary, save me). The prayer was heard ! — by her super
natural influence, the impetus of the fiery charger was
checked — and his rider was saved !" From this wonderful
interposition on the part of the Sainted Virgin, the festi
val of Nazere is said to have derived its origin ; and how
ever absurd the story may appear to the reader, yet it is
positively believed by many of the simple-minded natives
of Para.The historical account of the origin of the festival, as
given by a celebrated Portuguese author, is far more
satisfactory and credible than the foregoing. According
to it, there lived many years ago in the vicinity of Para,
a certain mulatto by the name of Placido, who was dis
tinguished for his extensive piety and devotion. This
solitary individual had in his possession a small and
rudely carved image of the Virgin Mary, which he was
accustomed to worship both morning and evening. This
he kept in his little leaf-covered habitation, and guarded
it with the greatest assiduity and care. On the death of
Placido, the sacred image fell into the hands of an exceed-

P AR A . 71
ingly zealous person called Antonio Angostinho, who, by
his extensive influence, induced a body of religious enthu
siasts to build a kind of hermitage for its accommodation.
This hermitage was situated within a short distance from
the city, and being easily accessible, it soon became a
place of popular resort by many of the citizens, who fre
quently repaired thither for holy purposes. Finally, on
the 3d of July, 1793, it was solemnly decreed by the
captain-general of the province, that a regular festival in
honor of the Virgin Mary should be held near this place
every year. Thus was the Festa de Nazere established
— and so well did it accord with the spirit and genius of
the people, that it has ever since been most scrupulously
observed. The festivities on this occasion are commenced by a
brilliant and extended procession, which forms in the
city, and moves out late in the afternoon, towards the
Largo de Nazere. The procession is led by a number
of citizens on horseback, after whom an immense vehicle
styled the " car of triumph " is drawn along by a pair of
oxen, handsomely decorated with ribbons and flowers.
Within the car are several youths, who afford entertain
ment to the multitude by occasional discharges of rockets
and other fireworks.
A fine band of music next follows, preceding a large
body of military. Then comes the president of the
province, mounted on a richly caparisoned horse. After
him succeeds a chaise, bearing in it a single priest,

72 PARA.
together with the sacred image of the Virgin. The
procession is closed like all others in Brazil, by a motley
crowd of the lower classes — men, with huge trays of
fruit and sweetmeats on their heads — Indian damsels,
with chains of massive gold suspended round their necks,
and children of every complexion, revelling in the freedom
of absolute nakedness.
The procession having arrived at the Largo, the image
of Nossa Senhora is deposited in the little church fronting
the Roscenia de Nazere. A holy ordinance is then
performed, and a hymn sung ; and every day through
out the festival these religious ceremonies are repeated
in the chapel, both at sun-rise and sun-set. The church
being exceedingly small, but few persons are able to
obtain an entrance, yet hundreds crowd together before
the porch, and zealously engage in the chants to the
blessed Virgin. The services being concluded, the
populace are allowed to enter the church, and each, in
their turn, to kiss the concecrated ribbons by which it is
profusely ornamented.
In the evening an infinite variety of amusements are
resorted to.
Fancy yourself, dear reader, for a moment transported
to the enchanting province of which we write. It is a
lovely moonlight evening, such as is only witnessed in
the tropics, and you are strolling out of the city with a
friend to observe the festivities of Nazere !
How beautiful the dense thicket of shrubbery through

73

which you are wending your way — how prettily those
tall palms droop their delicate branches and quiver in
the fragrant breeze — how merrily the insects hum and
flit about in the pure atmosphere ! But listen an instant
to a sound surpassingly rich and melodious that now
breaks upon your ear, like a voice from the "spirit
land," — aye, it is the plaintive note of a " southern
nightingale," charming his mate with a love-song of
bewitching sweetness. Attentively you hearken to the
delightful strain, and a soft melancholy steals over your
mind. But at length you arrive at the monument of
Nazere ! What a gorgeous spectacle now meets your
eye, and what a rapid transition in the state of your
feelings instantly takes place !
Before you is an- immense assemblage, gaily dancing
on the green — a splendid band is enlivening the vast
concourse with its stimulating music, and all are busily
engaged in a variety of human enjoyments.
Take a peep into the low thatched sheds which line
the Largo on either side, and you will see every species
of dissipation. In one you will perceive a number of
persons occupying themselves with cards, or a party
playing billiards. These are gamblers, as is manifest
from the piles of dollars exposed on the tables. In
another, you may perchance see a soldier or citizen,
swinging in a beautifully-woven hammock, and discours
ing love to a voluptuous looking Indian maid, with dark
4

74 PARA.
dreamy eyes and long luxuriant hair, while her naturally
developed waist is encircled by his wanton arm.
But we will not dwell upon the incidents of this Festa.
Suffice it to say, that for two weeks nothing is known
but gaiety and pleasure, at the expiration of which time
it is brought to its termination.
Although this extraordinary festival usually passes by
without any serious accidents or public disturbances, yet
it is much to be questioned whether it exerts any other
than a debasing tendency upon the morals of the
people.

PARA. 75

Chapter vii.
*' Festa dos Ossos." — " Festa de Espirito Santo." — Ash Wednes
day. — Palm Sunday. — A Romantic Ruin in the Forest. — " Dia
de Intrudo," or Intruding Day.
The most mysterious of the different festivals of Para
is the " Festa dos Ossos," or festival of bones. This sin
gular celebration, as we understood, was not of annual
occurrence, but only took place once in a certain number
of years.
On the day of its observance, the cathedral is bril
liantly illuminated with lighted candles, which are kept
burning from morning until night. In the centre of the
church a monumental platform is erected especially for
this occasion, which is overhung by a dark tapestry of
expensive material, embroidered along its margin with
gold and silver fringe. Upon this mausoleum is placed
an immense coffin ! This is shrouded with a rich dra
pery of black crape, hanging down in profuse folds on
either side.
During the day the cathedral is filled with persons
who come to gaze upon this strange spectacle, and to
render homage to the consecrated shrine of the departed !
About dusk, a body of penitents, dressed in the coarsest

76 PARA.
garments, repair to the burying-ground of the poor,
where they disinter a quantity of bones which they bring
with them into the city. Forming themselves into a
procession, they march along through the streets of the
city in regular file, each one of them bearing a blazing
torch in one hand, and a naked bone in the other.
Should a stranger accidentally meet this spectral proces
sion in some unfrequented avenue, he would almost be
led to believe that he had encountered a party of canni
bals returning from some horrid rite or feast of human
flesh. Having arrived at the cathedral, the penitents enter,
and a religious ceremony is performed. This being con
cluded, each one ascends the platform and casts his bone
into the coffin. A hymn follows — then a prayer — and
this wonderful festival is ended !
Another of the festivals is in honor of the Holy Ghost,
and is styled the " Festa de Espirito Santo." It is in
every respect the opposite of the preceding, being charac
terized by extreme hilarity and animation. A lofty pole
is erected in one of the church squares, the summit of
which is ornamented with a picture representing the
Holy Spirit descending in the form of a dove, which is
hung around with green wreaths and garlands of flowers.
A gorgeous procession parades the streets in the morn
ing, led by a fine band, and distinguished by the great
number of its splendid images, which are carried on plat
forms, profusely strewed, with bouquets of the brightest

PARA. 77
flowers. In the afternoon services are held in the Church
of the Trinity, which is tastefully decked with evergreens
for the occasion. In the evening there is a public display
of fireworks in the area in front of the church," and
a general illumination throughout the city. Every one
appears to take a peculiar interest in this day, which is,
I believe, universally observed in all the provinces of the
empire. Ash Wednesday is also a very gay day. The proces
sion on this occasion is distinguished by the number of
its images, which sometimes exceeds twenty or even
thirty. Before the images beautiful little girls with
wings on their shoulders, trip along, sportively scattering
flowers upon the path. These are intended as represen
tatives of the angels, and none others could have been
more appropriately selected for the purpose.
On Palm Sunday, which is celebrated in all parts
of Brazil, the display of palm branches is very extensive.
The churches are hung with them — the people ornament
their persons with their curious leaves — and as the pro
cession passes through the streets, ladies standing out
on the balconies, throw down flowers and branches of
palms, until the ground is literally covered with them.
The morning after our departure from the Roscenia
de Nazere, we were awakened at an unusually early
hour by the discordant chiming of the church bells,
whose uproar broke upon our slumbers with startling
vehemence. The custom of bell ringing is prevalent in

78 PARA.
all Catholic countries, but it is carried to an unbounded
excess at Para, — from four in the morning until the hour
of sunset, they keep up a perpetual jargon, such as habit
can alone render familiar, or familiarity endurable !
At six o'clock precisely, we took a cup of coffee, and
at nine sat down to a delicious breakfast, consisting
of stewed beef and buttered toast, together with tea and
chocolate. We then started out to take a snuff of the
pure air, as well as a stroll among the quiet environs
of the city.
Passing slowly through the streets of the town, we
at length arrived at a beautiful promenade, called the
" Estrada das MangabeirasP This is a well laid out
and magnificent highway, running from north to south,
along the western suburbs of the city, and extending
from the marine arsenal to the " Largo da Polvora."
It is skirted on either side with lofty mangabeira trees,
which stand within ten feet or more from each other, in
regular rows, forming a green arch overhead with their
bending branches. Being the finest road in the vicinity
of the city, considerable care is taken to keep it in excel
lent order. A more beautiful promenade, I think I never
saw. Pursuing our walk along this charming highway, we
diverged from our course to visit the hospital of S. Jose.
This establishment was in former times used as a kind of
convent, but, like many institutions of a similar charac
ter, i(»has of late years been converted into an institution

PARA. <79
of more practical utility. A botanical garden was com
menced many years ago on the extensive grounds con
nected with the hospital, but owing to a deficiency of
energy and public spirit on the part of its projectors, the
plan was soon abandoned, and no attempt has been
since made to revive it.
Near to this place is the recolimento of orphan girls.
This is an institution for the maintenance of female
infants, selected for the most part from the large number
of those deposited at the Foundling Hospital. This
latter establishment is for the convenience of those who
are not able, or who do not wish to take charge of their
own children. The building is provided with a huge
wheel, occupying the place of a window, half of which is
exposed, while the other half is within the building.
The wheel is supplied with four cradles, one of which is
always visible from without. Whenever a parent wishes
to abandon his child, all he or she has to do, is to take
the child in the evening and put it in one of the cradles
of the wheel. A semi-revolution then conveys it imme
diately within the house, where it is taken care of for the
future. A considerable portion of the infants disposed
of in this inhuman manner are the children of slaves ; all
that survive are ever after free.
As the heat ofthe summer was now very powerful, we
sought relief in the refreshing shades of the forest.
Wending our way through a green tunnel of fantastic
foliage, we shortly emerged from its cooling twilight into

80 PARA.
the open grounds of a wild and neglected garden. In
the midst of the clear space, surrounded by an almost
impassable wall of low bushes, and overhung with gay
festoons of flowering vines, was a stone mansion of noble
proportions, half demolished by the ravages of time, yet
solemn and interesting even in its mournful decay. Gay
spirits had once inhabited that lone dwelling, but they
have long since gone ; the tinkling of merry music no
longer resounds along its deserted corridors ; the revelry
of the joyous dance no more breaks upon the stillness of
the surrounding wilderness, and the house itself, like its
former proprietors, is rapidly " passing away." Some
twenty or thirty years ago, Spix and Von Martius, two
eminent German naturalists, spent several weeks at this
romantic spot, in whose near vicinity they succeeded in
collecting a variety of rare specimens, both of insects
and plants and birds. They could not have selected a
location more convenient for their laudable purposes than
this, anywhere within the neighborhood of the city, and
it was this fact that induced them to take up their abode
there, in defiance of its dilapidated condition, and the
numerous intruders, in the way of bats and reptiles, that
were accustomed to frequent its moss-grown and tottering
walls. Having plucked a few choice flowers, and picked up
some curious shells, which we found crawling about the
walls of the majestic ruin, we dashed once more into the
forest, and commenced retracing our steps towards the

PARA. 81
city. In less than an hour we were again seated in one
of the front apartments of Mr. Campbell's spacious house,
looking down upon the moving throng beneath us, and
chatting familiarly on the different spectacles as they
severally met our eye.
Among the passers by we noticed a man of wonderful
corpulency jogging slowly through the street, while with
one hand he was wiping away the thick drops of perspi
ration that had gathered on his massive brow. " That
man," said a gentleman present, " has had three wives."
" Three wives !" ejaculated a merry Scotchman at our
elbow, " by heavens ! he looks as if he had eaten them
all." Many of the houses in the city still bear marks of the
late disturbances. That of Mr. Norris, an intelligent and
hospitable American merchant, is perhaps the most
notable in this respect. Being a very lofty building, it
was used as a kind of fort, and garrisoned by the presi
dent's guard. Some of the upper window-blinds were
completely riddled with bullets, and in the garden, Mr.
N. informed me, that he found a quantity of balls, of
from half a pound to a pound in weight. These were
probably thrown from the vessels then lying in the
harbor. The view of Para from the cupola of this building is
very picturesque and variegated. The red-tiled roofs of
the houses, the rich shrubbery of the gardens, with here
and there a single cocoa-nut tree lifting up its feather-
4*

82

tufted head, constitute a pleasing contrast; while the
dark and venerable-looking churches, and the vine-grown
walls of the unfinished theatre give additional interest to
the charming scene. Before you, the sparkling waters of
the harbor, studded with little islands, stretch out like a
lake. Behind, a dense wilderness of never-fading foliage
presents an imposing background to the enchanting
landscape. The ensuing day was probably the most remarkable
that we in person had ever witnessed in Brazil. It was
called the " Dia de Intrudo," or Intruding-day. Being
the day immediately preceding Lent, it seemed as if the
multitude had determined to enjoy themselves as much
as possible, while they yet had it in their power, in view
of the restrictions which the coming season imposes upon
their conduct.
On " Intruding-day," every one is permitted to assail
whomsoever he pleases, with such articles as are accus
tomed to be used on this occasion. The most innocent
of these are small waxen balls called " cabacinhas," being
about equal to a hen's egg in size, and filled with per
fumed water. For some time previous to the day in
question, black-eyed damsels may be seen parading the
streets, with large trays on their uncovered heads, laden
with these sportive missiles, glistening with their gay
colors of azure and crimson and gold. They are sold
for a penny apiece, and every one lays in a stock of
them, in preparation for the approaching carnival.

PARA. 83
On the morning of this remarkable anniversary, all
the balconies of the different mansions are fortified with
frolicsome damsels, who keep up an indiscriminate war
fare with their cabacinhas, against all who lucklessly
attract their attention in the street. But the sport is not
entirely confined to the innocent waxen balls. As the
excitement increases, basins, syringes, and even pails and
tubs of water are called into requisition. Every one is
assaulted, but no one pretends to take offence. Should
a person do so, ten to one that he would be seized and
most unceremoniously ducked into a hogshead of water,
until his foolish ire was somewhat abated. This has been
done in several instances.
Heedless of all consequences, J. and myself rashly
ventured into the streets for the purpose of witnessing the
sport. Cabacinhas were flying in all directions, syringes
were filling the air with glittering spray, while basins
and dippers and pails, wielded by female hands, were
pouring their watery contents with marvellous assiduity
upon the devoted heads of the unfortunate passers-by.
We by no means escaped unscathed ; on the contrary,
in less than half an hour we were as thoroughly drench
ed as if we had been taking a bath in the river with our
clothes on. But don't imagine, fond reader, that we
bore all this with the patience of a Job, or the humility
of an anchorite. No such thing ! Eagerly we rushed
into the thickest of the fray, throwing our cabacinhas
with skill, wherever a pretty face presented itself. Peep-

84

ing through a half open lattice, I perceived a lovely
young damsel luxuriantly reclining in her hammock, her
long sable tresses hanging in wavy masses over her
pretty face and olive-mantled bosom. She appeared to
be in a gentle slumber, and the magic smile that still
played around her rosy lips, nearly disarmed me of my
intended purpose.
But my determination was made, and it was now too
late to retract. So, delicately tossing one of my caba
cinhas into the apartment, it broke upon the cheek of
the charming maiden ; jumping up hurriedly in her
fright, she rushed at once to the window, and in an
instant her stag-like eyes were fixed upon me as the
heartless assailant. Transfixed with guilt and enraptured
at the sight of her beauty, my heart rebuked me for the
deed I had committed, and I felt half resolved to make
atonement for my crime, but just at this moment, a well-
charged ball from the hand of the maiden herself, almost
blinded my left ogle, and suddenly banished the idea
from my mind.
The most formidable of all the belligerents was a
certain widow lady, who had from a lofty balcony
been pouring down pails of water upon the heads of
all who passed below. Bent on revenge, a young man
who had been near drowned by this virago, entered her
house, with his pockets full of cabacinhas. He was
white, surely, when he entered that fatal house, but
when he came out, his complexion was as dark as that

PARA. 85
of the raven's wing. How it came so, any reader with
the slightest spark of imagination can easily surmise.
But to be brief. The day passed by without any
consequent evils, and the beautiful moonlight evening
which followed, was devoted to music, dancing, and
revelry of every kind !

CHAPTER VIII.
Excursion to Caripe. — Character of Scenery. — Indian Huts. —
Insects and Birds. — An Adventure. — Nesting-tree of the Yel
low Orioles. — A Rio Negro Canoe. — Lovely Scene. — Arrival
at Caripe. — A Stroll in the Woods. — Young Cocoa-nuts. —
A Paca. — An Armadillo. — Farina: its manufacture and
value. — A Bath by Sunset.
About a week after taking leave of Nazere, we made an
excursion to Caripe. This is a neglected fruit and sugar
plantation, situated on a small island nearly twenty miles
from the city of Para.
Floating down slowly with the tide, by the glimmer
ing light of the stars, we guided our singular looking
canoe amid a labyrinth of fairy islands, until at last we
turned into an embowered streamlet to our left ; and
were thus paddling slowly along, against a powerful cur
rent, when with a flood of light the glorious morning
dawned ! How enchanting now was everything around !
The dew-drops on the overhanging branches glistened
like jewels in the bright sunlight, splendid birds flew
from bough to bough, chattering merrily in the fulness
of their joy, insects innumerable kept up a continual buz-

PARA. 87
zing in the pure atmosphere, while flowers of every hue
studded the drooping foliage of the trees, that met in an
arch of tropical magnificence directly over our heads !
The effect of such a scene, presented suddenly to the
mind, is exhilarating beyond description, and none who
have had the good fortune to experience it, will ever
forget the delicious sensation, should an age of sorrow
and of grief succeed.
The first impressions are always the most delightful
and permanent, and often, aye often, when gazing enrap
tured on a lovely landscape, have I closed my eyes upon
it for a moment, that I might again and again be startled
by the sudden bursting of the beautiful vision upon my
mind, and at last I have turned away with a feeling
of melancholy that the same degree of exquisite delight
could never be mine again, that the charm had vanished
away for ever.
Gradually the streamlet became wider and wider, and
the trees on either bank receded further and further from
each other, until at last several rods intervened between
the opposite shores. Although rather monotonous, yet
the scenery along the banks was singularly wild and
beautiful. Dense thickets lined the shores, and groves
of bamboo stretched out to a considerable distance in
the water. Here and there an opening in the forest
disclosed to us an Indian wigwam, at the same time giv
ing us a hasty glimpse of its swarthy inmates. These huts
of the natives are constructed by means of poles driven

88 PARA.
in the ground, over which a light roof, composed of
canes -and palm leaves closely matted together, is securely
fastened. Being generally open in front, a good view of
the interior is thus afforded to the passing traveller, who
sees, perhaps, a group of natives seated on the ground,
quietly smoking their long pipes, or lounging in their
hammocks, thumbing with their fingers the strings of a
species of violin or guitar, which they hold in their
hand. A variety of domesticated animals and loquacious
parrots completes the scene, which to the eye of a stran
ger always appears eminently picturesque and pleasing.
As we proceeded onward, we met several small ,mon-
tarias manned by half-naked Indians, coming from the
opposite direction. Nothing is more deserving of notice
than the different varieties of water-craft that one
encounters in sailing up the rivers and streams of Para.
The " montarias" are of the simplest construction, being
made from the trunk of a tree, hollowed out by the
aid of fire and rude instruments. Boats of this descrip
tion are, some of them, so light, that they may easily be
carried from place to place by the united strength of two
persons. They are, besides, so narrow, and draw so
little water, that they are of great use in navigating the
smallest streams. It is a curious spectacle to see one of
these singular craft filled with Indians, paddling rapidly
down the current of an arbored stream in South America
— the extraordinary formation of the boat itself — the
strange appearance of the natives — the simultaneous

89

dipping of twenty paddles, and the glistening of the
silvery spray, is calculated to produce an impression upon
the mind of the beholder so palpably distinct, that it can
never be erased.
Gigantic moths and butterflies of many hues were
continually flitting near us, and, with the assistance of a
long netted pole which we fortunately had on board, we
captured several fine specimens. But this was not all, —
with our faithful guns, we shot quite a variety of shining
kingfishers and other birds, perched upon dry stems
jutting out over the water, in anxious expectation of
their prey, or slumbering away the day in the midst of
their lovely sylvan bowers,
" Jack," said my companion to me, suddenly, " look at
these egrets along the shore — had n't we baiter try and
give them a shot ? They are now more than a rifle shot
off, but by keeping perfectly still for a few moments, we
can doubtless get within a suitable shooting distance."
" By all means," exclaimed I, with pleasure — " we
must give these tall fellows a Yankee salute. How '
majestically they walk along the beach ! how symme
trical their delicate forms ! how snowy white their
plumage !"
There they were indeed ! — twenty as handsome birds
as a naturalist might wish to behold — marching slowly
along the shore, in quest of their favorite food, as natur
ally and unsuspectingly as if danger was not near.
Our men scarcely touched the water with their pad-

90

dies, and so smoothly did we glide over the placid
surface of the water, as to leave no perceptible wake
behind. We spoke not, but kept our eyes intently fixed
upon our prey, expecting them every moment to take
flight ; at last I raised my gun, and took deliberate aim
— but to my great chagrin, the cap alone exploded,
alarming the birds by the sound, who rose instantly
into the air. But a sharp report from J. now rang on
my ear ! — the shot whistled in its unerring flight, and
down came two of the charming birds stone dead, while
another, who was merely winged, ran swiftly along the
shore. As we were desirous of preserving this one alive,
one of our men volunteered to leave the boat and pursue
him. Stripping himself for this purpose, he jumped into
the water, and was soon in rapid chase after his victim.
The spectacle now presented, was, to say the least,
decidedly ludicrous ; and at this very moment we see
the poor fellow in our imagination just as he was then,
in puris naturalibus, running with surprising velocity
after that ill-fated bird ! Eventually the feathered biped
was captured by our hero, who, having secured his prize,
triumphantly started out for the boat, with the bird flut
tering violently in one of his hands. As he was wading
out towards us, through the shallow water, he suddenly
sank up to his shoulders in a quicksand, and was wholly
unable to extricate himself from his critical situation.
But the fellow acted bravely, and still continued to hold
on to the legs of his white-pinioned bird. Forcing our

PARA. 91
craft up to him, as near as the shallowness of the water
would allow, we succeeded by the aid of a pole in re
lieving our unfortunate companion from his perilous
dilemma, and in getting him once more on board. The
bird was in excellent order, his delicate snowy plumage
being almost unruffled. He proved to be an egret of the
largest kind, and was characterized by long legs, eyes of
a bright crimson, and plumes on his back of great
length and beauty. The bird manifested but little fear,
and soon became so well reconciled to his new condition,
as to eat food from our hands. He survived the excur
sion, and lived with us in a state of perfect domesticity
for many days !
Perceiving a respectable-looking cottage peeping from
amid the shade of the ' surrounding foliage on the bank
to our right, we bethought ourselves of halting for a short
time, in order to enjoy a few moments' relief from the
overpowering heat of the sun, and to refresh our envious
palates with a taste of the luscious fruit with which the
adjacent groves were bountifully teeming.
Guiding our boat into a little cove, we disembarked
and secured it firmly to the trunk of a tree. The pro
prietor of the estate met us as we were walking up
towards the house, gave us a cordial welcome, and in
vited us to partake of some fruit and wine under the
shelter of his commodious veranda. This we gladly
assented to, and forthwith proceeded to the house with
our kind-hearted host, where we regaled ourselves upon

92 P AR A .
a sumptuous banquet of juicy oranges, delectable bana
nas, and sweet-flavored mangoes, together with some
delicious port, and a rich beverage prepared from the
fruit of the cocoa plant. Having sufficiently refreshed
ourselves, we strolled for a short time about the garden,
previous to taking our departure. At last we bade
farewell to our hospitable entertainer, and prepared to
resume our journey.
Overhanging the water with its drooping branches,
was a tree of prodigious size, literally full of the long
nests of the yellow-rumped oriole. The novelty of the
spectacle did not fail to attract our observation, and we
halted for a few moments beneath its shade, in order to
scrutinize the motions of the hundred gay-colored birds
who were chattering and fluttering amid the thickness of
the foliage. The general colors of these birds were black
and yellow, strikingly blended together, and their notes
were shrill and discordant to the ear.
It is a singular fact, by the way2 that birds of bright
plumage, with few exceptions, are not endowed with the
faculty of song, wljile, on the other hand, the sweetest
warblers, such as the British nightingale and the Ameri
can mocking-bird, have a dull and uninviting exterior.
It is almost impossible to drive these orioles from
their nesting trees ! If you have a heart so cruel, you
may continue to fire at them for hours, and may wanton
ly destroy half their number, yet the remainder will still
flutter around the sacred spot, vainly endeavoring to

PARA. 93
protect their helpless offspring, to whom they are
strongly bound by those mysterious ties which death
alone can sunder. The natives have a superstitious
dread of killing these beautiful birds, and, like tfll robin
redbreast in our own country, they are everywhere pro
tected and beloved.
While proceeding onward, we fell in with a huge and
fantastic Rio Negro canoe, on her return from a long
voyage far up the Amazon. She was truly a most
comical craft, bearing not a little resemblance to a
Chinese junk. Both stem and stern were square, and
painted in a very singular manner. At either extremity
was a small cabin, over each of which was an awning,
made of palm leaves thickly matted together. Seated
on the quarter-deck, was the pilot or captain ; on his
head was a coarse hat, with an enormous brim — in his
mouth, an Indian pipe of considerable length, while with
his right hand he held firmly on to the tiller, thus con
trolling the languid motions of his very extraordinary
vessel, in the most comfortable manner imaginable !
As the breeze was extremely light, at least a dozen
powerful looking blacks were employed in rowing the
canoe, by means of poles not less than fifteen feet in
length, on the extremities of which were fastened circu
lar pieces of wood of a foot or more in diameter.
A number of unfortunate natives on board of the.
vessel particularly attracted our notice. They were
yoked two and two together like so many cattle, by huge

94 PARA.
blocks of wood, into which their feet were inserted.
These pitiable beings, we understood, had been seized
by the authorities of Rio Negro for some trivial offence,
and weft now being transported to Para for the purpose
of enrolment in the army for life. The government of
the province is in constant fear of a second insurrection,
and takes this means therefore of adding to its strength ;
but there is little doubt, however, that this course, if
much longer persisted in, will inevitably result in the
very end which it is intended to avert.
In addition to the crew and Indians, we observed
several beautiful Rio Negro girls, whose dreamy eyes
and dark tresses, hanging in dishevelled masses over
their handsomely rounded shoulders and well-developed
bosoms, left an impression upon our susceptible hearts
that was not soon erased.
There were besides on board a variety of rare monkeys
and other nimble animals, who were amusing themselves
in gambolling with each other about the rigging ; also a
general assortment of parrots and long-tailed macaws, of
which one of the latter was conspicuously perched upon
the top of the mast-head itself, looking around on the
picturesque landscape beneath him with all the pride
and dignity of a sovereign !
We were now approaching the termination of our
short but interesting voyage, and were sailing between
two charming islands, whose alternate groves and plan
tations of sugar-cane, waving like fields of Indian-corn,

PARA. 95
gave a variety to the scene which was exceedingly pleas
ing to the eye. The grateful fragrance of the forest
flowers perfumed the air ; the groves were alive with
the joyful voices of birds ; and the surface of the rippling
water was sparkling in the sunshine like a mantle of
diamonds. So perfectly magnificent was the scene, that
we were almost willing to believe that we were in the
far-famed land of the fairies, or that the magic wand of
the enchantress had created by its influence the lovely
landscape we beheld.
Suddenly we emerged from the stream into the broad
expanse of the river, which was here ten or twelve miles
across to the next intervening island. This island was
Marajo, concerning which we shall have something to
say by and by.
Not more than a mile distant, to our left, the white
sandy beach and red-tiled mansions of Caripe broke
upon our view. It was a pleasant sight, and we gazed
upon it earnestly and with increased delight as its dis
tance from us became gradually diminished.
Arriving at the glistening beach, we disembarked, and
leaving the boat to be secured by the men, we imme
diately sought the house. We found the building to be
large and in good condition, with several commodious
apartments, and a snug little veranda in front.
The surrounding scenery was wild and diversified.
On one side was a dense forest, on the other an extensive
garden, comprising flowers and plants of endless varieties,

96 PARA.
beyond which were groves of orange and other fruit
trees, and thriving fields of tufted sugar-cane, while be
fore us, the noble river of the Amazons expanded out
like a sea of molten silver !
As soon as we had sufficiently rested ourselves, and
dispatched a hastily prepared meal of boiled tapioca and
milk, we took a walk of exploration and investigation
through the extensive grounds of " Caripe."
The estate was evidently iu a sadly dilapidated condi
tion, and so overgrown with gigantic weeds and thick
shrubbery, that we were frequently obliged to use our
long " wood knives," which we carried with us on all
occasions, in order to effect a passage through them.
While walking through a pleasant grove, one of our
men climbed a tall cocoa-nut tree, and threw down to us
a cluster of its fine fruit. They were hardly ripe, but on
breaking the shell of one of them, we found its contents
extremely delicious.
Hearing the sudden report of a gun near by, I turned
my eyes in the direction from whence it came, and per
ceived at the distance of several rods, my companion J.
triumphantly holding a small animal in one hand, while
with the other he grasped the barrel of his gun, the stock
of which rested on the ground. •
" Well done, J. !" exclaimed I, " what kind of an
animal have you killed 2"
"The animal," replied J. advancing towards us, "is
called by the natives, I believe, a paca, and a very hand-

PARA. 97
some little creature it is. He was running quickly
through the thicket at the moment I fired, and I was
then uncertain whether it was a bird or a beast. How
ever, I determined to satisfy my curiosity."
The animal was of a reddish brown color, with rather
coarse hair, and a head resembling in shape that of a
guinea-pig. His sides were prettily striped with white,
and his countenance was adorned with whiskers like
those of a cat. He was about the size of a large rabbit,
and very fat. The flesh of the paca is esteemed a great
delicacy, and is as white and tender as that of a chicken.
He is nocturnal in his habits, and sleeps during the most
of the day. They are perfectly innocent and harmless,
and are often domesticated, in which state they are quite
interesting and playful.
Strolling on through the woods, it was not long before
one of our companions espied a small armadillo, to which
we gave chase, and soon succeeded in capturing. He
was a comical fellow, with a queer looking, sharp-pointed
head, and a banded coat-of-mail almost equal to that of
the tortoise in strength and solidity. Animals of this
kind are harmless, and live chiefly on vegetables and
insects, which they for the most part procure during the
night. They are furnished by nature with powerful
claws, with which they are enabled to dig burrows with
wonderful facility. Their flesh is much relished by the
natives, who hunt them with dogs, and dig them out of
5

98

the deepest recesses of their subterranean retreats. When
attacked, they roll themselves into a ball, so invulnerable
as to be secure from the assaults of most of their pur
suers. Thus does an all-wise Providence provide for the
safety of these animals, who without such special aid
would be utterly unable to protect themselves, and for
the preservation of a class of animals which would other
wise soon become extinct.
Retracing our steps to the house, we could not but
admire the exuberant foliage by which we were sur
rounded. The trees were in close proximity to each other,
and formed an umbrageous canopy above us, by the meet
ing of their drooping branches. Brilliant parasites of
every hue glittered like stars amid the emerald-like ver
dure, grotesque plants of mammoth size stood around
us — glad birds chattered on the branches, and busy
insects fluttered in the air !
Arriving at the house, we observed a number of old
slaves engaged in making farina. As this article is
a general substitute for bread among the poorer classes
throughout the province, a few remarks concerning its
origin and manufacture, may not prove wholly uninter
esting to the reader.
The vegetable (Jatropha manihot) from which the
farina is made is in its natural state considered quite
poisonous, and is entirely unfit for the purpose of nutri
tion. The means, therefore, by which its pernicious qua-

99

lities are expelled, and the nutritious principle retained,
must always be regarded as a most extraordinary and
invaluable discovery.
The plant is a native of Brazil, and was known to the
natives on their first intercourse with the white men. No
other vegetable, not even wheat, possesses an equal degree
of nutriment, and, together with bananas and wild meat,
it constitutes the principle item of the native Brazilian's
bill of fare. The farina is made from the root, which is
first rasped with a piece of indented wood, until it is
reduced to a pulpy consistence. The juice is then effec
tually expressed in the following singular manner : large
circular baskets of plaited rushes are filled with the rasp
ings of the mandioca root, and then suspended from the
branches of the trees. By means of a considerable weight
of stones fastened beneath, the rushes are drawn tightly
together, and most of the liquid squeezed out. After
this, the pulpy substance is exposed on skins to the rays
of the sun, for the purpose of evaporating all the remain
ing moisture.
The juice being at length entirely expressed, the pulp
is placed on large earthenware pans, and stirred over
a hot fire until it granulates ; it is then put up in bas
kets for use. The manner in which the natives eat the
farina is very amusing, and is besides perfectly inimita
ble. Taking a quantity of it in one of tiieir hands, by a
skilful motion of their arm they toss every particle of it
into their mouths, and it seldom happens that any is

1&&-

wasted in this manner. I have frequently attempted to
imitate them, but I found that the feat required more
legerdemain talent than I was master of, and that on
every trial my mouth was but little better supplied with
the granulated material than either my nose or eyes.
A milk-white substance is deposited by the juice of the
mandioca root, which being collected, and hardened by
exposure to the sun, constitutes the article so well known
as tapioca, from which such wholesome and delicious
puddings are made. So very poisonous is the root in its
natural state, that it has been found to occasion death in
a few minutes when administered experimentally to ani
mals, and it is said that the natives used it with great
effect many years ago in destroying their Spanish perse
cutors. It has been ascertained by dissection that this
poison operates by means of the nervous system, produc
ing immediate convulsions and exquisite torments, as
soon as it is introduced into the stomach. In some
instances it has been used in the execution of criminals,
in which cases death invariably ensued within from five
to ten minutes after its imbibition. The fatal principle
appears to exist in certain gases, which are dissipated by
heat. This is conclusively proved, from the harmless-
ness and highly nutritious properties of the farina,
when the process of its manufacture has been completed.
It has beenjetated on good authority, that a single
acre of land planted with the mandioca root, will afford
nourishment to more persons than six acres of wheat

PARA. 101
planted in the same manner, and my own observation
fully justifies this Assertion. Concerning the value of
this plant, Southey remarks with truth, that " If Ceres
deserved a place in the mythology of Greece, far more
might the deification of that person have been expected
who instructed his fellows in the use of mandioc !"
Being near sunset when we arrived at the house, we
lost no time in going down to the river's side, to undergo
a refreshing ablution in its pure and sparkling waters.
For this purpose, there is no spot better adapted by
nature than the beach at Caripe. So gradual is the
slope of the bank that, at high tide, a person can wade
out for several hundred rods without getting beyond his
depth. During the spring tides, the water rises and falls
full fifteen feet. The strand is hard, and is composed of
the finest white sand, and is as smooth and clean as the
floor of a ball-room.
The water was remarkably transparent, insomuch that
we could distinctly discern snowy pebbles and unique
shells lying on the bottom at the distance of many feet.
Its surface was mantled with all the splendor of the
setting sun, and a beautiful sight was it for us to watch
the mimic waves, tinged with the sunbeams, as they
sportively broke upon the shore.
For nearly half an hour we plunged and swam and
bespattered one another, as playfully and happily as a
party of innocent mermaids bathing in their own en
chanted lake. No ravenous sharks or ferocious caymans

102

were here to molest us ! No clawed monsters, not even
a crab or a lobster did we see ; but "osts of gold and
silver-gleaming fishes were continually darting like so
many little fairy sprites around us !
With spirits gay and our bodies all in a glow, we at
last came out of the water. Parting day had sped ; and
when again we reached the house, bright stars were
peeping from the sky !
It was evening, and never shall we forget it while the
pulse of life throbs in our veins. The deep silence, the
wild beauty of the scenery, the tranquillity of the river,
spread out like a lake, and the reflection of the stars on
its surface, presented a picture of natural beauty that we
have but rarely seen surpassed !

PARA. 103

CHAPTER IX.
Melancholy Incident. — The Island of Marajo. — Our Indian Cap
tain Gaviono. — Life on Board a Brazilian Schooner. — A thril
ling Adventure. — Curious Game. — Mexiana. — Mysterious
Mound. — A Night in the Stream.
At sunrise on the ensuing morning we emerged from
our hammocks, and having fortified our stomachs with a
strong cup of coffee, we sallied out into the adjoining
woods. In the afternoon we took our departure, and arrived
in the city about nine in the evening. A lamentable
occurrence took place at Caripe some few weeks after
wards, which we will briefly relate.
Among the number of persons whose acquaintance we
had made while in the city, was a young Englishman by
the name of Graham, who had left his native country in
quest of health, accompanied by his lovely wife and only
child. During his residence in Brazil he had devoted a
great portion of his time in prosecuting the study of
natural history, and had succeeded by industry and
untiring perseverance, in acquiring an extensive collec
tion of birds, quadrupeds, and shells. His younger bro-

104 PARA.
ther had recently arrived from England for the purpose
of escorting him back to his native country.
The elder Graham being desirous of giving his brother
a glimpse of the country before leaving for Europe, sug
gested a trip to Caripe, whither, in company with a faith
ful black who had been his constant companion, they all
went. Wishing one day to cross over to the island
of Marajo, he started out in a little canoe, for the pur
pose of gaining a larger one, which was lying at anchor
in the river, about half a mile from the shore. Through
some carelessness or mismanagement, the frail boat was
upset, and Mr. Graham, together with his wife and
child, was plunged into the water. Every exertion was
made by those in the larger vessel to save them, but
without avail. The three were drowned ! This tragic
scene was witnessed by young Graham from the beach,
but, alas ! he could render no assistance. What tumul
tuous throes of anguish must have wrung that orphan
brother's heart on beholding those most dear to him on
earth swallowed up in a moment by the relentless waves,
leaving him alone in a land of strangers ! Mr. Graham
was himself an excellent swimmer, but lost his own life
in a vain endeavor to save that of his wife. Their bodies
tightly locked together, floated ashore. Surely, "they
loved in life, and in death they were not divided." A
rude grave was dug in the sand, and the sad remains
of worth and beauty consigned to its bosom. Here
amid the solitude of beautiful nature, and on the banks

PARA. 105
of the king of rivers, they sweetly repose. No tear of
friendship bedews the spot, but the rising tide of the
mighty Amazon daily weeps over it. Martyrs to the
science they so nobly prosecuted, they are calmly sleep
ing at Caripe !
" There breathes the odor of summer flowers,
And the music of birds is there."
Having passed another agreeable week in the city, we
decided on making a visit to the beautiful island of
Marajo. This island lies directly in the mouth of the
Amazon, and is somewhat more than a hundred miles in
length by from fifty to eighty in breadth. On account
of its rare beauty and the infinite variety of its flowering
plants, it has been significantly called by the natives,
" The isle of flowers." This island abounds in large
campos, or extensive meadows, covered with tall grass,
which are frequented by immense numbers of wild cattle
and horses. The horses were so abundant some years
since, that they were killed by hundreds, merely for the
sake of their hides. A malignant disorder, however,
finally broke out among them, which destroyed a great
proportion of their number, and seemed to threaten
extermination to the entire race. Since then they have
been comparatively scarce, but many thousands still
roam over the grassy plains of Marajo !
The vessel in which we sailed thither was a queer-
5*

106 PARA.
looking schooner, and was used exclusively in the trans
portation of wild cattle from the state of " Jungcal " to
the city. It was manned entirely by natives : the captain
himself was an Indian, and decidedly the most intelligent
and entertaining one that we had previously encountered.
He was both a skilful musician and an inveterate story
teller. His name was Gaviono. Throughout the day
he was as lively as a lark, and appeared to take a pecu
liar pleasure in recounting to us the many strange adven
tures with which his memory was well supplied. But
when the shades of night fell on the river, and the
fragrant and soothing breeze from the land blew freshly
over the waters, and the stars of heaven beamed brightly
in the sky, then a perceptible change came over the
spirit of Gaviono's dream. All gaiety vanished from his
mind, and for hours together he would swing in his
grass-woven hammock, without speaking a single word,
but all the time playing a succession of plaintive airs on
his musical, though rudely constructed guitar.
Sometimes, too, when in a merrier mood, he would
favor us with a song. His voice was powerful and of
surpassing richness, but wholly unfettered by the rules of
singing art. He sang but few songs, and these were
chiefly of a national character. They were characterized
by a wildness of sentiment and strangeness of melody,
that could not but produce a most powerful impression
upon the mind of the listener.
Music is at all times pleasing to the ear, and seems to

107

exert a very beneficial, although mysterious, influence
upon the human soul ! What a soothing power it has
over the troubled spirit when oppressed by sorrow, or
overburdened with grief? Like oil poured out upon the
tempestuous waters, it calms the heavings of the soul,
modifies the turbulence of excited passion, elevates the
intellect, smoothes the temper, and restores universal
peace and placitude to the perturbed faculties of the
mind. But he who would feel the full potency of music must
hear it while gliding over tranquil waters ; when the
atmosphere is balmy and pure, and the scenery around
of that wild and romantic character, so well calculated to
call into action the sublimer emotions of the mind. Let
it be at night, when the stars are shining brightly, and
the moon in silent majesty is moving swiftly through its
azure pathway in the sky, and then he who can listen
unmoved to the sweet strains of trembling melody as it
steals softly upon his ear, must have a heart too cold for
earth — oh ! let him never hope for heaven !
It was under such circumstances as these that we
loved especially to listen to Gaviono's voice ; and nothing
appeared to afford him more gratification than the
sincere praises we were in the habit of bestowing upon
his humble, although none the less admirable perform
ance. Owing to the changes of the tides and the dangers of
the river navigation, we invariably anchored at night.

108

At early morn we were again under weigh, sailing along
shores gemmed with flowering rushes, and fringed with
the most magnificent shrubbery, which hung in heavy
masses over the placid surface of the water.
Our repasts were by no means epicurean : a miserable
dilution, politely styled coffee, was our daily beverage,
and coarse farina and jerked beef our only edibles. The
latter consisted of long strips of meat that had been
thoroughly dried by exposure to the sun. There being
no stove on board, a fire was made on some large stones,
and the process of cooking performed by securing a piece
of the dried beef on the end of a forked stick, and holding
it directly over the blaze, until it was sufficiently roasted
for agreeable mastication !
While our schooner was at anchor, we frequently went
ashore in the small boat, in quest of natural curiosities
and game. On one afternoon, I remained on board,
while J., my constant companion, started off in the little
boat, accompanied by several of the men, he to hunt for
birds, and they to seek for crabs.
On arriving at the beach, the men separated from J.,
and followed up a small stream, looking eagerly for shell-
, fish, while he, solitary and alone, wandered along the
outskirts of the forest, listening attentively to every
sound, and watching with a sportsman's eye for any
movement that might be made among the branches over
his head. I occasionally heard the report of his gun as
it came booming over the water, and began to regret that

109

I had not gone ashore with him. The schooner was
moored at least a mile from the land, so that we were
unable to see anything of our companions except when
standing by themselves in bold relief upon the sandy
beach. But to return to J. For two hours he rambled along
the margin of the dark wild woodsj occasionally penetrat
ing for a few rods into the thicket, as the voice of some
strange bird attracted him thither. Having killed quite
a number of richly-plumaged birds, he at last, issued from
the forest and descended to the beach. To his infinite
amazement and consternation the small boat was nowhere
to be seen. " What ! had his companions deserted him !
or had they become intoxicated, and, in endeavoring to
reach the schooner, been drowned." These were the
thoughts that broke upon his mind, as he reflected upon
the horrible idea of being abandoned, and necessitated to
pass the night upon that lonely and gloomy shore.
It was near sunset, and in half an hour more the dark
mantle of night would be thrown over the beautiful
landscape around ! No time was to be lost ; he exerted
his voice to its utmost capacity, but it failed to reach our
ears. We were then lounging sluggishly in our ham
mocks, and our senses being somewhat blunted by
Morpheus, we neither saw our friend nor heard his
voice. Scanning the surface with a hawk-like eye, J.
finally caught a glimpse of the small boat floating at
some distance from the shore. It had been carried away

110 PARA.
by the tide. At this fortunate moment the men emerged
from the woods ; as soon as they perceived the condition
of the boat, one of them jumped instantaneously into the
water, and being an excellent swimmer, soon reached the
boat, into which he got, and paddled it again ashore.
They then returned to the schooner. J. related the
incident with considerable warmth : " Never," said he,
" shall I forget the feelings I experienced during those
few moments of anxiety, should I live until every hair on
my head is grey."
Among the birds which J. had killed were several
handsome parrots, a couple of glistening jacamars, and
a variety of little manakins, together with a red squir
rel and a small black monkey.
" Upon my word," said I, " I regret very much that I
did not accompany you. You have had much better
luck than I anticipated."
" I wish really that you had been with me," replied
J., " you would have seen as splendid an ornithological
spectacle as you ever gazed on before. While walking
along the forest I frightened up a flock of tall scarlet
flamingoes from a marshy thicket, where they had been
feeding. I fired at them instantly, but, on account of
the distance, my shot had no perceptible effect."
" It must, indeed, have been on account of the dis
tance," replied I, " for never did I know you to miss
your mark when within a suitable shooting distance ; but,
by heavens ! I would have given up all my hopes of

PARA. Ill
pleasure for a week to come, to have had a moment's
glimpse at these flamingoes ; for, to tell the truth, I never
saw a live specimen in my life. It must truly have been
a gorgeous sight."
" I have some curious shells in my pocket," said J.,
"which I picked up on the shore; also several fine
guavas, which I preserved particularly for you, — here
they are," continued he, at the same time handing me
several specimens of this well known fruit. They were
about the size of a peach, with a bright yellow skin ;
within, the pulp was of the deepest crimson, and of a
very agreeable taste.
" Let us try and get something to eat," remarked J.,
" for I'm as hungry as an ogre." Saying this we went
together into the cabin, where we made a hearty supper
on jerked beef and farina.
During the evening we swung in our hammocks in the
open air, and chatted with each other on the events of
the day, and of the delights we anticipated on Marajo.
Gaviono, also, favored us with several of his admirable
songs. At an early hour on the following morning our worthy
captain, Gaviono, pointed out to us a charming island,
whose tall palm-trees in the distance appeared like tufts
of verdure rising above the watery surface. It was the
lovely island of " Mexiana, concerning whose beauties
and various attractions we had heard- many graphic
accounts.

112 PARA.
This island is from forty to fifty miles in extent, and
from ten to twenty in width. It has but one house of
any consequence, which is quite large, and is surrounded
by the most enchanting scenery imaginable. The beach,
which lies within a short distance in front of the house,
is of snowy whiteness, and abounds with many varie
ties of pearly muscles and valuable shells. The campos,
like those of Marajo, are well supplied with cattle, num
bers of which are periodically exported to the city. The
forest is noted for the abundance of its fierce jajuars and
brilliant birds, and the streams teem with alligators and
singular fish. Mr. Graham, the enterprising naturalist,
whose unfortunate death at Caripe we have heretofore
alluded to, collected, during a residence of three months
on this island, upwards of two hundred distinct species
of birds, besides an infinite variety of insects, shells, and
other natural curiosities. He spoke in glowing terms of
the various charms of the island, and said that the
attractions it offered to the lover of natural history were
unrivalled by those of any spot he had ever before
visited. There is a considerable mound in the centre of the
island which has especially attracted the attention of
visitors. It is partially covered with trees and rich
shrubbery, and, on account of the prominence of its situa
tion, commands a fine view of the picturesque land
scape by which it is environed.
For many years an inexplicable mystery hung over

113

this place, and various wild conjectures were entertained
respecting its origin. By the natives it was regarded
with superstitious reverence, and they had strange
scruples against having it disturbed.
Mr. Graham, however, determined at all hazards to
satisfy his own curiosity regarding it. Having hired
several blacks, he proceeded to the place, and com
menced operations ; digging vigorously for some time,
their efforts were at length rewarded by finding at a
depth of about twelve feet, a number of earthenware
cups, and other utensils. Resuming their work, they
afterwards discovered several immense jars of earthen
ware, which, on being opened, were found to contain
a quantity of dust resembling ashes ; musty bones, the
remains of bows and arrows, and trinkets of various
descriptions. These were all carefully treasured up by
their fortunate discoverer, and sent by him to England as
sacred mementoes of an Indian race that had once lived
and flourished, but which has long since passed away
and been forgotten !
In the afternoon, the magnificent island of Marajo was
distinctly visible, and seen through a strong spy-glass
which we had taken the precaution to bring with us,
it seemed to realize all our brightest dreams and imagi
nary conceptions of a terrestrial paradise !
Towards evening we entered a small river, which,
at its mouth, spread out like a lake, and was studded
with numerous little islands of the most exquisite beauty.

114

We could not sufficiently admire the richness of the
foliage, which drooped in gay festoons over the surface of
the water, or the splendor of the flowers which grew
amid the shrubbery along the shore. A gloomy forest
mantled by the solemn flush of a brief tropical twilight,
added sublimity to the imposing scene, and filled us with
strange emotions of awe, mingled with feelings of indefi
nable delight. The same odoriferous fragrance we have
remarked before now filled the air, and imparted an irre
sistible sweetness to the gentle breeze which was deli
cately fanning our cheeks.
Having sailed up the stream to the distance of three
or four miles, we took in our sails and suddenly dropped
anchor. A gloaming light overspread the beautiful land
scape, and the evening birds were sweetly singing amid
the thick branches the parting song of another day !
Soon the queen of night arose, and distributing her
benign rays through the interstices of the clustering
foliage, enveloped us in a wilderness of moonbeams !
The narcotic state of the atmosphere, the low whispering
of the breeze, the carolling of the birds, and the monoto
nous rippling of the stream, induced a desire for repose ;
so jumping into our hammocks with pleasing anticipa
tions for the morrow, we bade " good night" to the
world !

P AR A. /] 115

CHAPTER X.
Reality contrasted with a Dream. — Trip in a Canoe to Jungcal.
— Alligators by the Way. — Appearance of Jungcal. — Our
Head-quarters. — Singular Encounter with a Bird. — Evening at
Jungcal.
A sudden flood of light bursting upon us like a meteor,
while we lay unconscious in our suspended hammocks,
aroused us at length from our dreamy slumbers. In our
dreams we had wandered back to home ; a dear friend
had been carried to the silent tomb, and we were among
the hopeless number of the bereaved ; the cold and snows
of winter, too, — the leafless trees, the blighted plants, and
the howling winds, — deepened the gloom of our spirits,
and rendered us nigh broken-hearted. We awoke ; but
how changed the scene ! The brightness of the sunlight
almost dazzled our eyes — the most beautiful scenery sur
rounded us — the surface of the water shone like a highly-
polished mirror, and on some neighboring sandbars, tall
birds of splendid scarlet plumage were seeking diligently
for their natural food, while small halcyons of exceeding
beauty darted occasionally from their coverts, and flitted
along unsuspectingly under the delightful shade of the
tangled masses of shrubbery which overhung the stream ;

116

really it seemed as if our compact on earth had been dis-'
solved, and we had been transported to another world, of
far greater magnificence and beauty.
Shortly after breakfast the tide began to flow strongly
up the stream, and we commenced stowing our luggage
away in the small boat which was to convey us a few
miles up the streamlet to Jungcal.
All our different articles being stowed in the boat,
last of all, we ourselves got in also. A paddle was then
given to each of us, at our solicitation, which we
immediately began to use with extraordinary spirit, if
not with equal dexterity. In front of us were two of the
sailors, who used their paddles with astonishing quick
ness and skill, while Gaviono, who was comfortably
seated in the stern, with an Indian pipe in his mouth,
guided our little craft with remarkable accuracy through
the various narrow passages and sudden windings of the
stream. The scenery was' quite picturesque. Now, the banks
would be covered with thick foliage overhanging the
stream, while, a little further on, light groves of young
palms drooped over the water on either side, through
whose openings we caught -occasional glimpses of the
grassy meadows beyond.
Many were the small alligators that we saw basking
along the shores, while, sometimes, the loud snort of a
full-grown one, as he sank with a heavy splash beneath
the surface, would strike abruptly upon our ears. These

PARA. 117
animals are very abundant on Marajo, and while lying
on the surface of the water, with their capacious heads
alone exposed, their general appearance is somewhat
similar to that of a floating log of wood. Although
they move with great awkwardness while on land, and
can make little progress except directly forward, yet,
when disturbed in the water, their motions are marked
by extreme rapidity. Their " coat of mail " covering is
a complicated piece of mechanism, and is of sufficient
solidity to repel even a musket ball.
Coming at length to an open part of the stream,
Gaviono pointed out to us the leaf-thatched cottages of
Jungcal. They were mere huts, being constructed by
means of poles driven in the ground, the interstices of
which were filled up with mud. The leafy roof consti
tuted an effectual protection both against the severe rains
of the island and the scorching rays of the noon- day sun.
The huts were located about forty rods or more froin
the bank of the stream ; on one side they were bordered
by a dense thicket of bamboos and trees of various kinds,
while, in the opposite direction, the table-land stretched
for many miles, dotted here and there with patches of
verdure, and groves of waving palms. The view in front
of the dwellings was cut off by a dark wilderness, which
extended as far as the eye could reach along the opposite
side of the stream.
Paddling our canoe up to a rude wharf, we disem
barked, and were cordially welcomed by Senhor

118

Anzevedo, the chief superintendent ofthe place. Having
ordered a couple of the natives to take charge of our
baggage, we walked up with him to his house, if such by
courtesy it may be called. It was made in precisely the
same manner as the other habitations, but was larger and
more commodious. A row of bamboo stakes was
fastened in the ground within ten feet of the house, over
which the leaf-matted roof of the cottage drooped, thus
forming a Robinson-Crusoe-like veranda, which we
afterwards found to afford a delightful shelter during the
sultry hours of the day.
There were no chairs or sofas in Marajo — the innocent
natives had never heard of such things ; so, swinging our
hammocks under the veranda, we lounged in them for a
short time while holding a desultory conversation with
Senhor Anzevedo, chiefly respecting the natural history
of the island.
" What say you to a walk ?" suddenly exclaimed J.,
starting up from his hammock, and looking out eagerly
towards the forest, near whose borders some tall egrets
were stalking quietly about. " I should like very much
to bring down one of those fine fellows."
" You may go and try your luck," replied I, " but for
my part I would prefer keeping as much as possible
out of the sun, on account of a slight headache with
which I am now troubled."
"Very well," said he, "I will go out alone and see
what can be done. It will require some cunning,

PARA. 119
methinks, to get within shot of those quick-sighted, birds
on the open campo, but at all events I'll give them a
trial." In a few moments he had equipped himself, and with
gun in hand stealthily proceeded out towards the spot
where his feathered victims were feeding. We watched
his movements with considerable interest, as, with quiet
steps and crouching attitude, he gradually approached
his prospective prey. Finally, the birds evidently became
alarmed, and were just about to take their flight, when
J. suddenly halted, deliberately raised his gun, and fired.
A white cloud of birds immediately rose into the air, but
a gigantic crane, with a broken wing, was left behind.
This bird, to my utter astonishment, instead of endeavor
ing to make his escape by running, as any stranger would
of course suppose, turned about and began to pursue my
friend. J. did not much like the looks of his feathered
adversary, and. probably thinking that in this case
"discretion was the better part of valor," commenced
running with amazing velocity towards the house.
Convulsed with laughter at a spectacle which rivalled in
ludicrousness anything I had ever before seen, I seized
my gun, and having loaded it as speedily as possible,
rushed out on the campo, with the laudable determina
tion of saving my inestimable companion, if not from
the jaws of a wild beast, at least from the prodigious bill
of a feathered monster.
As soon as I had got within a proper distance, I fired,

120

and, lo and behold, kind reader (and I hope you will
forgive my egotism), the wounded bird fell prostrate
and dead upon the ground.
The population of Jungcal did not exceed fifty per
sons ; of this number about one half were blacks, the
remainder half-breeds and Indians. Totally ignorant of
all the arts and accomplishments of civilized life, they
were alike sheltered from its many vicissitudes and
sorrows. Indeed, they were as joyous and contented as
if creation itself' had stopped at the borders of their own
luxuriant isle.
At sunset we regaled ourselves with a bowl of deli
cious " mingow." This is made by boiling tapioca in
milk, and sweetening it with either molasses, honey, or
sugar, as best suits one's taste and convenience. It was
our principal and favorite dish on Marajo. The day had
passed, and a most beautiful starlight evening succeeded.
Swinging in our hammocks under the humble veranda
of Anzevedo's palmetto-thatched cottage, we whiled away
the hours in chatting with our friendly host — in curling
wreaths of smoke from our long Indian pipes — in listen
ing to the tinkling of rude guitars in the neighboring
dwellings — and in feasting our eyes upon the unrivalled
beauty of the scenery around us.

PARA. 121

CHAPTER XI.
First Morning at Jungcal. — Account of the Toucans. — The
Roseate Spoonbill. — Magnificence of the Forest. — The Palms.
Brazil-nut. — Cocoa and Cannon-ball Trees. — Capture of an
Onca, or Jaguar. — Howling Monkeys. — The "Preacher"
Monkey. — Evening Dance. -
Fair rose the morning of the ensuing day, and glo
riously bright were the varied tints that glowed along
the bosom of the western horizon !
Near us the dense foliage of the forest glistened in the
sunlight like an emerald drapery, hung with dazzling
jewels. The dew-laden branches rustled in the gentle
breeze, and the low gurgling of the streamlet broke like
music upon our ears. Anon, the note of a distant toucan,
or chattering of noisy parrots, suddenly disturbing the
sublime solitude of the scene, served only to add to the
intensitv of its wildness and romantic interest. Insects
innumerable sported with each other in the delicious
atmosphere, and delicate little humming-birds flitted
gaily from flower to flower. Away off on the green
mantled campos, herds of wild cattle and horses were
quietly grazing ; while now and then an immense flock
6

122 PARA.
of ducks or scarlet ibises, would rise up in a body from the
tall grass, and soar triumphantly into the azure sky.
Such was the picture which was presented to us on
awakening for the first time from our delightful slum
bers at Jungcal. A scene of more transcendent beauty
we had never gazed on before ; it even now blesses us
in our midsummer dreams, and cheers us while treading
with noiseless steps along the rugged pathway of human
life. We were quite lost in contemplation when our land
lord, Senhor Anzevedo, intimated to us that breakfast
was ready, hinting, moreover, that the sooner we com
menced it the warmer it would be. The meal consisted
of some fresh fish, a roasted duck, farina as usual, and
coffee. While we were disposing of these articles (in a
manner which would undoubtedly have surprised our
refined reader), Anzevedo swung near us in his ham
mock, giving us an acccount of all he knew concerning
the different strange birds and animals which inhabited
the island. His description of the toucans and their
habits particularly interested us. These birds are alike
distinguished for the singularity of their forms and the
splendor of their plumage, as well as the enormous and
apparently disproportionate size of their beaks. On
account of their natural timidity, and the solitude of their
haunts, they have been until of late years but little known
to naturalists.
The genus includes not less than twenty-five species,

PARA. 123
of which the " white-breasted toucan" {ramphastos Bra-
siliensis) is the largest in size. This bird when full grown
is about twenty-seven inches in length, from the tip of
its beak to the extremity of its tail. Its bill alone is full
nine inches long, and in the live specimen is of surpass
ing delicacy and elegance. This prodigious member is
extremely thin and cellular, and is much lighter than its
appearance would indicate. Being vascular, it is sup
posed to be of importance to the bird, in giving an
extraordinary development to the organs of smell. This,
however, is but mere conjecture. The plumage is of a
shining black, while the feathers of the throat are of the
finest texture and purest white. The bill itself is of
vermilion and yellow, beautifully blended together ; but
these splendid tints fade shortly after the death of the
bird. No artificial means have as yet been devised for
preserving them. This species is found abundantly at
certain seasons of the year, on the island of Marajo, and
is eagerly sought after by the natives, who prize its flesh
for its tenderness and exquisite flavor.
The toucans subsist for the most part upon fruit,
but when in a state of captivity they learn to eat flesh of
all kinds. Their favorite food is the assahy berry, and
their method of eating it is very remarkable. They first
seize the fruit in the extremity of their beak, and by
a sudden twitch throw it up several feet into the air ; as
it falls they catch it, and swallow it entire, without the
slightest attempt at mastication. They confine them-

124

selves mostly to lofty trees, and may be seen sitting
on the topmost branches, with their beaks pointed
directly towards the wind, thus by instinct overcoming a
power which if exerted on their broadside, might consi
derably disturb their comfort and equanimity.
On account of the peculiar construction of their eyes,
as well as the enormous size of their beaks, they are not
able to discern objects well which are immediately before
them, yet their vision on the side is remarkably acute.
Unless the hunter is aware of this circumstance, he will
find it almost impossible to get a shot at them.
They make their nests in the hollow of old trees, which
are accessible by means of a small circular opening in
front. The female lays but two eggs, on which she sits,
and with her formidable beak protruding from the port
hole of her fortress, she is able effectually to repel all
assailants, in the form of monkeys, serpents, or other rep
tiles, who may be disposed to invade her sacred pre
mises. Soon after we had made an end of our morning's meal,
Senhor Anzevedo proposed a short ramble in the forest,
to which J. and myself joyfully consented. In a few
moments we were fully equipped, and with our guns
resting on our shoulders, and our long knives by our
sides, we started off in the direction of the wilderness.
While we were sauntering over the grassy table-land
which lay between the cottages and the forest, a flock of
scarlet ibises, snowy egrets, and roseate spoonbills, who

PARA. 125
were concealed from view by a coppice of low bushes,
suddenly flew up within a few rods before us. In an
instant a shot from J. brought one of the spoonbills to the
ground. This bird (Platalea ajaja) is considered by orni
thologists one of the most valuable of the whole fea
thered race, not only on account of its extreme rarity, but
also for the magnificence of its plumage, and the singu
larity of its formation. The general plumage of the adult
spoonbill is of a light rose color, while the feathers of its
wing-coverts are mantled with a beautiful crimson. The
beak of the bird is from four to six inches in length, and
its shape is very much like that of a spoon. It is from
this fact that, its generic name of Spoonbill is derived. It
builds its nest in trees, and lives mostly upon fish and
snails. In its habits it is solitary, and is seldom seen in
company with more than a dozen of its own species.
When caught while young, they may easily be domesti
cated, but they are not very interesting in captivity, and
their flesh is tough and of a disagreeable flavor. Besides,
like all other beautiful creatures upon whose creation
nature has been particularly lavish of her skill, they soon
droop and fade in confinement, and lose for ever those celes
tial dyes with which the God of Nature has favored them.
Walking on we soon reached the borders of the forest,
which we skirted about a quarter of a mile, under the
shade of the overhanging tree-tops, until finally we
entered a narrow passage which led away like a natu
ral gallery to our right.

126 PARA.
Like all the forest pathways of Brazil, this was com
pletely arched overhead by the meeting of the heavy
branches, while the bright rays of the sun struggling
through the diamond-like interstices of the clustering
foliage, fell upon the ground in a luminous network
of dancing gems.
" Was ever anything so transcendently beautiful ?"
exclaimed J., in a transport of delight ; " it almost makes
one fancy himself wandering about the gardens of the
Hesperides ! Truly, how inadequate an idea have our
northern friends of the indescribable loveliness of the
torrid zone ! They would think themselves in paradise
if suddenly transported hither !"
" You are right," replied I ; " nothing I am sure could
afford our friends greater pleasure than a glimpse of this
charming island, everything is so dream-like and beauti
ful ! Besides, how sweet and delicious is the climate, —
how full of life and happiness everything appears ; under
proper jurisdiction and culture, methinks it might indeed
be made a ' heaven on earth.' "
The conversation now turned on the trees and plants
of the forest, on which subjects Senhor Anzevedo
gave us not a little valuable and interesting infor
mation. What a magnificent country Brazil must appear to
the botanist ! On every side thousands of singular plants
and flowers are continually presented to his eye ; and as
he looks onward he is amazed at the boundless and

PARA. 127
untrodden fields of scientific research that stretch out in
endless luxuriance before him.
The family of palms alone presents an extensive subject
for his investigation. Of this genus more than sixty dis
tinct species are known to exist in the province of Para.
It has been remarked by a distinguished botanist, that
" The palms constitute the most interesting race in the
whole vegetable kingdom, whether we consider the majes
tic aspect of their towering stems, crowned by a gigantic
foliage — the character of grandeur which they impress
upon the landscape of the countries they inhabit, — their
immense value to mankind, as affording food, raiment,
and numerous objects of economical importance, — or,
finally, the prodigious development of these organs by
which their race is propagated."
Says Mr. Kidder : " They grow in every altitude, from
the deep valley to the mountain top. They inhabit
every locality, from the ocean beach to the depths of the
impenetrable forest. Not a few of them make glad the
barren and solitary desert by their cheerful and beauteous
aspect, while their size varies from the diameter of half
an inch, to that of three and even five feet."
The Brazil nut tree (Bertholletia excelsa) may justly
command the attention of the enthusiastic naturalist.
This tree thrives well in the province, and immense
quantities of its delicious fruit are annually exported to
foreign countries. It grows to the height of from fifty
to eighty feet, and in appearance is one of the most

128 PARA.
majestic ornaments of the forest. The fruit in its natural
condition resembles a cocoa-nut, being extremely hard,
and of about the size of a child's head. Each one of
these shells contains from twelve to twenty of the three-
cornered nuts, nicely packed together. During the
season of their falling, it is dangerous to enter the groves
where they abound, as the force of their descent is suffi
cient to capsize the strongest man. The natives, how
ever, provide themselves with wooden bucklers, which
they hold over their heads while collecting the fruit from
the ground. In this manner they are perfectly secure
from injury.
The cocoa tree, from whose fruit chocolate is manu
factured, is also a native of this province. The fruit is of
a green color externally, and incloses a quantity of the
cocoa nuts, which are covered by a white glutinous sub
stance, of delectable sweetness to the taste.
The cannon-ball tree also (Couroupita guianensis)
will not fail moreover to attract particular notice. This
tree is remarkable, both for the size and splendor of its
flowers, as well as the magnitude of its fruit. It some
times reaches the height of fifty feet, and at certain sea
sons of the year is profusely covered with clusters of fra
grant blossoms, of a beautiful crimson hue. Its fruit are
enormous, and being perfectly round, look very much
like cannon-balls. Says an enthusiastic French writer :
" Beneath a pure and dazzling sky, gracefulness is ever
united to the magnificence of nature ; there the hidden

PARA. 129
streams only reveal their presence in gentle murmurs, or
by the silvery light that they cast upon the rocks, or the
soft sound with which they trickle through the grass, or
the increased verdure with which they endow the plants.
But when the silence of nature is broken by these violent
hurricanes, which too often, in the torrid zone, blast all
the hopes of the cultivator, you may hear the report of
the fruit of the cannon-ball tree, whose bursting produces
an oft repeated echo, and resembles the rolling fire of a
discharge of artillery."
On — on, we pressed, and deeper and deeper became
the twilight of the forest. Gigantic were the trees which
towered around us, and interlaced thickly by a multitude
of creeping vines. Strange shrubs too, of singularly fan
tastic forms and prodigious dimensions, lifted up their
heads on every side, while thousands of splendid flowers
glittered like stars amid the foliage, imparting their in
toxicating fragrance to the air.
" Near here," said Anzevedo, " a full-grown onca was
killed by some of the natives, a few days since, He was
a savage fellow, and gave his assailants considerable
sport." " Indeed," replied J., " I was not aware that these
fierce animals were found on Marajo — pray are they
abundant ?"
" Yes," answered Anzevedo, " these oncas, or jaguars,
as they are sometimes called, are quite numerous on the
island, and are killed in great numbers by the natives, for
6*

130 PARA.
the sake of their handsomely marked skins, which meet
with a ready sale in the city. When properly dressed
they make very pretty and ornamental saddle-cloths.
" The animal I alluded to, was attacked while up in a
tall tree, which fortunately was so far separated from the
surrounding ones, that it would have been no easy matter
for the animal to have escaped. Several of the natives
boldly climbed iip the trunk, and after a short period of
hard fighting among the wide-spreading branches of the
tree, they succeeded in vanquishing their infuriated
enemy, by means of the long and sharp-pointed javelins
with which they were provided. They then threw him
down, and he was carried to Jungcal and skinned."
"But do not these animals sometimes attack the
natives, while they are alone in the forest ?" inquired J.
" No, I have never heard of a single instance," replied
Anzevedo, " of their having made an unprovoked assault
upon one of the human species, although they often
make bloody onslaughts upon the cattle during their mid
night wanderings. They are naturally very ferocious,
and always make savage resistance when attacked by
either man or beast. The natives have very little fear
of them, and I have known instances of their having been
captured and strangled to death, simply by throwing a
lasso around their necks, and drawing the noose instantly
as tight as possible."
We were now walking noiselessly along through a
dark and narrow avenue of the forest, when suddenly, an

PARA. 131
uproar, as awful as mortal ear ever listened to, burst like
a tornado upon our ears. So loud and horrible was it,
that for some moments we were unable to utter a syllable
— so great was our astonishment !
" What is the meaning of this terrible uproar ?" at last
J. recovered sufficient self-possession to ejaculate.
" Nothing at all," said Anzevedo, " except a pack of
' guaribas,' or howling monkeys, who have been startled
from their slumbers by our approach. They are quite
harmless, notwithstanding their huge size, demon-like
aspect, and diabolical voices. We are frequently awak
ened at night by their unearthly yells, which, breaking
upon the deep silence of midnight, are terrible beyond
description. You will, doubtless, have an opportunity of
hearing several of their nocturnal serenades, before you
take your leave of Jungcal."
" I certainly hope not," responded J., " the concert we
have just now ttad from them, is amply sufficient to
satisfy my curiosity."
The guaribas are of an exceedingly large size, and are
covered with a shaggy coat of long black hair. To add
to the intensity of their ugliness, their visages are sup
plied with whiskers of an enormous size, which give them
truly a most frightful as well as formidable appear
ance !
The Preacher-monkey seems allied to this species.
He is" so called from the well authenticated fact, that he
sometimes climbs up to the top of a lofty tree, and there

132 PARA.
preaches after his manner, for the edification of his
monkey congregation, who in hundreds surround the
b ise of the tree ! It is said that as soon as he has
finished his part, the choir and audience who have been
quietly listening to his eloquence from below, now burst
simultaneously into a melodious chorus, which can only
be likened to the roaring of mad bulls and the squealing
of mad pigs combined ! Order being again restored, the
orator resumes his harangue !
Besides these sable howlers, there are several other
species of monkeys found in Marajo, some of which,
so far from being hideous, are on the contrary quite
pleasing in their appearance.
Returning to Jungcal, we encountered and killed a
strange looking animal in the woods, called a guano. A
more ludicrous, and at the same time apparently fero
cious object, was never seen. It was not far from three
feet in length, and of a deep green color throughout.
As soon as it beheld us, it neither ran nor made any
noise, but stood gazing at us with great astonishment,
raising the indented and saw-like crest on its back, and
inflating the curious pouch under its chin to a prodigious
extent. It was motionless with fear, and had it not been
for its formidable appearance and gorgon-like counte
nance, we could not have had the heart to kill it.
The guanos are usually found in rocky places, and
subsist principally upon vegetables and insects. The
natives capture them with a lasso, and when thus caught,

PARA. 133
they seldom make any effort to escape. When domesti
cated, as they sometimes are, they are very playful, and
display much affection for their masters. Their flesh is
white, and is considered very rich and nutritious.
On arriving at Jungcal we learned that a number of
the natives had been out on the campo in quest of wild
cattle, and that as the horsemen were fording a certain
stream, an immense alligator had seized hold of one
of the finest horses, and bit off two of its legs. The poor
animal died shortly after, yet the natives spoke as uncon
cernedly about it as if such accidents were of daily occur
rence. During the afternoon we lolled in our hammocks, and
entertained ourselves with reading and conversation. In
the evening we witnessed an amusing dancing fandango,
in which most of the natives and slaves participated. The
affair took place upon the broad green sward fronting
the cottages, and no artificial illumination could have
equalled that which the effulgent queen of night then
afforded !

134 PARA.

CHAPTER XII.
Excursion down the Stream. — Novel mode of " raising Cattle."
— The Kingfisher. — Singular Adventure with a Troop of
Monkeys. — Serious Conflict. — Parrots. — Conversation about
them. — Marvellous Stories.
Our next excursion was down the streamlet, to the spot
where the schooner was moored, and was undertaken
principally for the purpose of witnessing a " novel mode
of raising cattle." At seven o'clock we got under weigh.
The current was strong, and the tide had Just begun to
flow. Our canoe, therefore, glided down the stream
with great velocity, while all our paddling skill was
called in requisition,, in order to keep the boat free of the
numerous snags with which the stream was bountifully
supplied. Acting in the capacity of pilot, the writer was seated
in the stern, provided with a paddle of huge dimensions.
J. was snugly ensconced in the forward part of the canoe,
and with his faithful gun in his hand, was looking eagerly
ahead for the appearance of game.
During our brief voyage my companion shot a couple
of bright humming-birds, and several small kingfishers
of shining plumage. The latter were continually flitting

PARA. 185
with meteor-like quickness, up and down the sudden
turnings and windings of the streams, or sitting upon
little dry twigs jutting out over the water, watching
patiently to pounce upon any of the finny tribe who
should be so unfortunate in their innocence as to swim
below. Of the kingfishers there are many species, some of
which are but little larger than a good sized humming
bird, while the largest of the genus is above twelve
inches in length. Their plumage in general is extremely
fine ; of a rich emerald hue, variegated in some species
with purple, yellow, and white.
Among the ancients the kingfisher was an object of
much respect and admiration. With the poets he was
an especial favorite, doubtless because like love-lorn swains
he lived amid the shadows of romantic groves, and was
always found in the vicinity of rippling streams and mur
muring cascades. By some it was superstitiously sup
posed that this bird exercised a controlling influence over
the winds and waves — hence the origin of its antique
name of " Halcyon," and of those days of unusual still
ness, which were poetically termed " Halcyon days." On
these days the kingfishers are particularly industrious,
for the reason probably that the purity of the atmosphere
and the slightness of evaporation from the surface of the
water, promise extraordinary success in their piscatory
operations. Arriving alongside of the schooner, Gaviono assisted

136

us on board, and manifested as much pleasure at seeing
us again, as if we had been separated from each other
for several months. Taking us into the cabin, he gave
each of us a gourd-shell, filled with sweet beverage of a
red color, which we found quite delicious. It was pre
pared from the berries of the assahy trees, so much
esteemed by those bird-epicures, the toucans !
Soon after our arrival the operation of taking the cattle
on board was commenced. They were all assembled
together in a large pen, made on the margin of a preci
pitous bank, and completely surrounded by the forest.
There they were ! about fifty of the infuriated animals,
running frantically from one side of the inclosure to the
other, seeking in vain for some avenue by which to
escape, and bellowing all the time most furiously. The
natives were stationed on the outside of the pen, engaged
in forcing the cattle one by one into the water, by the aid
of lassos and long poles. As soon as one of the animals
had been driven over the bank into the water, the end
of the lasso was thrown to those on board the schooner,
who drew the animal gradually up alongside. A stronger
noose was then thrown around his horns, and the lasso
taken off. By means of a powerful pulley firmly secured
aloft, and by the united strength of a dozen stalwart
natives pulling at the end of the rope, the huge ani
mal was then raised slowly up into the air, and let
down gently into the hold of the vessel. The whole
number were individually taken on board in this manner.

PARA. 137
Much as we pitied the poor animals as they hung
suspended in the air, their eyes horrjjbly dilated and
every muscle stretched to its utmost capacity, yet we
could hardly refrain from laughing at this ridiculous
mode of raising them.
At length we bade farewell to Gaviono and his swarthy
crew (who were to set sail for the city on the following
morning), and started off in our little craft to return
to Jungcal. While gliding through a narrow passage of
the stream, the banks of which were covered by a dark
forest, we heard distinctly the chattering of monkeys
among the trees.
" Do you hear that ?" said J. " Monkeys, by heavens !
I believe I'll go ashore and give those rascals a shot."
" Wei!, I think you had better do so," I replied ; " and
in the meantime I will remain to take charge ofthe boat
until you return, unless my services should be needed."
Guiding the canoe into a small cove, my companion
jumped quietly ashore, and with his gun in his right
hand, walked silently into the woods. For a few
moments a deep silence reigned over this beautiful soli
tude, unbroken scarcely by the note of a bird or the
buzzing of an insect. Attentively I listened for the
slightest sound, the faintest murmur, the merest chirp,
anything to relieve the sense of profound and overpower
ing stillness, when suddenly two loud reports following
each other in rapid succession, broke with startling vio
lence upon my ear.

138 PARA.
In a moment the woods were alive with the piercing
cries of a thousand monkeys, and above the uproar I
heard the shrill voice of my companion, calling upon me
to come to his assistance. Securing the boat as quickly
as possible, I seized my gun and rushed into the woods.
I was soon alongside of J., who, to my infinite surprise,
was entirely encompassed by hundreds of monkeys,
while many others were rapidly coming down from the
neighboring trees. Not at all intimidated, he was knock
ing the savage animals aside with the butt of his gun,
while they were screaming and gnashing their teeth
together at a terrible rate, and were evidently bent upon
revenging the loss of several of their companions.
It would be utterly impossible for my humble pen
to do justice to this exciting scene, — to paint the wild
magnificence of the foliage which enveloped us, — the
consternation of the writer, and the intrepidity of J.
while in the midst of this ferocious gang of monkeys ; to
us at least, it was a spectacle never to be forgotten.
Firing both my barrels at the monkeys, where they
were most thickly congregated, they dispersed and fled
in all directions, nor did they think proper to make ano
ther attack. Picking up the dead from the field of
battle, we returned with them to the canoe, and having
resumed our seats, we were shortly in motion once
more. We had proceeded but a short distance when a flock
of paroquets chattering boisterously, flew over our heads,

PARA. 139
and alighted upon the branches of a luxuriant guava
tree, which droopingly hung its branches over the water.
Our bloodthirsty feelings being now well roused by our
recent conflict, we meditated further destruction, and
slowly and silently approached the tree where the parrots
were noisily feeding. On account of the density of the
foliage, and the green plumage of the birds, we were
unable to see a single one, notwithstanding there were
several hundreds in the tree. We therefore reserved our
fire until we had arrived within a short distance of the
spot, when we suddenly started up and gave a loud
shout. Frightened by the sound, the birds flew out of
the tree in a body, and immediately our four barrels were
discharged into the very heart of the flock. The devas
tation was immense ; at least a dozen dropt upon the
shore, while full as many fell lifeless into the water. The
birds were quite small, of a light-green plumage, with
their shoulders tinged with a bright shade of yellow.
" This is one of the prettiest paroquets I ever saw,"
said J., taking up one of the birds in his hands ; " its plu
mage is so delicate, its shape so symmetrical, and besides
I think I never saw a parrot with a more agreeable phy
siognomy." " It is exceedingly pretty," I replied, " and very much
resembles the one which Anzevedo has alive. Is it not
astonishing how much he is attached to that little bird ?
He feeds it as regularly as he takes his own meals, and
seems to delight in playing with it upon his finger. I have

140 PARA.
no doubt that that bird engrosses more of his affection
than any human being gifted with an immortal soul.
Why is it ? It must and can only be because he has
good reason to distrust the latter ; he knows that the
love and gratitude of this little creature are sincere. The
true friendship of our inferiors is far better and more
desirable than the selfish and hypocritical concern of
those who are far above us."
" A fig for your sentimentalism !" said J. ; " don't you
remember that famous parrot of Senhor P  's, in the
city ? What a feathered prodigy he is ! Why, I've
heard him jabber off Portuguese by the hour, and con
verse much more fluently than either of us are able to do
at this moment."
" Oh, yes, I remember the bird well ; he is a very
large specimen, and was brought down from the Rio
Negro, I believe. I heard him repeat one day several
verses of poetry, and was astonished beyond measure :
he is a perfect ornithological miracle, and would make
his fortune by visiting foreign parts. His voice is softer
than that of any other I ever saw, and his laughter is as
melodious as that of a young girl."
" I have heard marvellous accounts of the longevity of
parrots," continued J. " One is mentioned by Le Vail-
lant, the distinguished French naturalist, as having lived
in a state of domesticity for nearly ninety years. When
seen by this celebrated individual, it was in its dotage,
having lost both its sight and memory. In its younger

PARA. 141
days it had been remarkable for its loquacity, and was so
obliging in its disposition as to call the servants, and
fetch its master's slippers, whenever required."
" This was certainly a wonderful bird," I replied ; " but
far inferior in point of talent to one carried to England
some years ago by one Colonel O'Kelly. This bird was
not only a wonder, but a perfect miracle, and was sold to
a certain nobleman for a hundred guineas. Improba
ble as it may seem, it is said that this bird was able to
express his desires in an apparently rational manner, and
also to sing a number of songs in excellent tune and
time. It is further recorded, that if in whistling an air it
accidentally passed over any note, it would soon return
to the bar where the oversight occurred, and complete
the tune with astonishing accuracy. Such birds, how
ever, as this, are extremely rare /"
" You may well say they are rare," responded J.,
" but you will forgive my incredulity, I hope, when I say
that I don't believe such an accomplished parrot ever
existed. The bird might have been remarkable for his
colloquial imitations, but the account of his musical
powers is hugely exaggerated ; besides, I don't believe a
bird can be susceptible of a rational idea."
" You are perfectly at liberty to disbelieve what you
will," I seriously answered, " respecting the mental
capacity of birds ; but I have heard much more extraor
dinary stories of their powers than that I have just men
tioned to you, and based on good authority too. Gesner

142 PARA.
gravely relates that two nightingales kept at Ratisbon
spent whole nights in discoursing on politics ; and Pliny
himself states that Germanicus and Drusus educated one
so perfectly, that it delivered speeches both in Latin and
Greek !"
"Well," responded J., with provoking coolness, "I
have heard some people speak of ' fish stories,' and others
(of ridiculous incredulity) of ' typee stories,' but I, for my
part, with more propriety, shall call every marvellous
narration I may hear henceforth, ' a bird story !' "
Our progress had been so slow, and our stoppings so
frequent, that it was late in the afternoon when we
reached Jungcal. Being quite fatigued with our day's
adventure, a snooze in our hammocks was exceedingly
grateful. For a moment we feasted our eyes upon the
enchanting scenery around, then closed them, and while
a refreshing and fragrant breeze was fanning our cheeks,
we wandered far, far away, into the beautiful land of
dreams.

PARA. 143

CHAPTER XIII.
Superstition of the Islanders. — Romantic Story. — The " Belles"
of Jungcal. — Evening Salutations. — Skirmish in the Water. —
An Angling Adventure. — An unexpected Bath. — The Fish-ox.
— Moschitoes and Chigoes. — A dentical Operation. — Sickness
of Teresa. — We cure her. — Our advance in popularity. — Last
Night at Jungcal.
The natives at Jungcal were egregiously superstitious,
and firmly believed in the existence of ghosts, hobgoblins,
evil spirits, and all the varieties of supernatural appari
tions. Their legends and stories were of the wildest cha
racter, and at night, during the fine starlight evenings,
they were accustomed to entertain us with their nar
ration. They told us of beauteous shades, who wandered by
midnight through the groves of the island, and whose
melodious voices, sweeter than the notes of the night
ingale, were frequently heard emanating from the dark
ness of the clustering foliage. They spoke also of spirits,
whose phantom canoes were often seen gliding by night
down the rippling streamlet.
There was one story which we heard repeated many

144

times, and always with the assurance that it was per
fectly true. It was substantially as follows : —
On a pleasant afternoon, not more than ten years
since, a young lad of about eight years of age, was
observed frolicking by himself on the meadow before the
cottages, and running up and down the margin of the
stream. Little heed was taken at the time of his motions,
but some two hours afterwards, when he was wanted, he
was not to be found. It was now within half an hour
of sunset, and as may be conjectured, a certain degree of
uneasiness and anxiety began to be felt respecting the
fate of the child ; and these apprehensions were quick
ened into alarm when the horsemen who went out into
the campo in all directions to seek for him, returned with
out having discovered the slightest clue to his extraordi
nary disappearance.
The parents of the boy were wild with grief, and
believed that their child had fallen into the stream, and
had either been drowned or eaten up by alligators.
An awful stillness brooded over Jungcal on the evening
of that day, unbroken by the merry laugh of the natives
or the music of their rude guitars. The silence of the
sepulchre could not have been more profound.
After a dreary and sleepless night, morning at length
came as a solace to the hearts of the bereaved parents ;
but what mortal pen can paint the intensity of joy which
animated their bosoms, when they beheld their lost and
lamented boy, whom they had wept for as dead, calmly

PARA. 145
sleeping on the green sward before them, sheltered only
by the azure canopy of heaven !
Overcome with delight, each in turn clasped the wan
derer to their bosom, and then bore him in triumph to
their own habitation. As soon as he had recovered his
consciousness, he gazed wildly about him, as if just
awakened from a wondrous dream. On being asked
where he had been, he told a strange story of having
been aceosted, as he was walking along near the bank of
the stream, by a party of beautiful women in a curious
canoe, who carried him forcibly with them far away up
the stream. They then conveyed him to a " little para
dise " in the heart of the forest, where he was surrounded
by hundreds of charming maidens, with long dark hair,
whieh fell in dishevelled folds almost to the ground.
The fairy damsels, he said, crowned him with garlands
of flowers, offered him various kinds of sweetmeats, and
nearly smothered him with their honeyed kisses and
endearing caresses. At last, on his beseeching it, they
brought him baek to the very spot from which he had
been taken. This marvellous account (which was un
doubtedly a dream) was strictly believed by the simple-
hearted natives, whose unsophisticated minds could not
conceive any other satisfactory cause for his mysterious
departure and absenee.
Among our olive-complexioned neighbors were two
young girls, whose fine forms and pretty faces especially
elicited our admiration. The one was named Teresa, the
1

146 PARA.
other Florana. The former could not have been more
than fourteen years of age, and was rather short in sta
ture, with exquisitely rounded arms, and a bust already
of noble development ; the latter was somewhat taller,
and at least three years older ; they had both, however,
attained their full size. Animated as they were beautiful,
they were always overflowing with vivacity and life;
their conversation, which was incessant, was like the
chirping of nightingales, and their laughter dulcet as
murmuring streams. These then, beloved reader, were,
during our stay at least, decidedly the belles of
Jungcal. At the close of every day we were visited by all the
juveniles in the place, who, in their own sweet tongue,
bade us " adieus," and at the same time besought our
blessing, which latter request we only answered by
patting them gently on the head.
The pretty maidens we have just alluded to, instead
of shaking hands with us, were accustomed to salute us
at eventide with a kiss on either cheek. The propriety
of this we at first doubted, but the more we reflected
upon the sweetness and innocence of the damsels, the
more inclined were we to pardon them. It must be
borne in mind, however, that this was a sacred custom
of the place, which it would have been considered, to say
the least, great rudeness in us to have resisted, and to
tell the truth we were not at all so inclined. Therefore,
kind reader, do not judge us too severely ; for know, O

PARA. 147
chary one ! that extreme bashfulness and modesty have
always been considered two of our principal failings !
One day Teresa and Florana invited us to take a bathe
with them in the stream. This we declined point-blank.
They then charged us with fear of alligators. This was
a poser : our courage was now called in question, and we
were literally forced to submit. Pray what else could
we have done under the circumstances ?
When they had once got us into the water the
maidens took ample revenge upon us for the uncourteous
manner with which we had at first treated their request.
In less than ten minutes, we cried lustily for quarter, but
no quarter would they give us, insomuch that we were
somewhat apprehensive of being drowned by them, to
say nothing of being devoured by bloodthirsty alligators.
Emerging from the water, we walked up to Anzevedo's
cottage, revolving in our minds the severe ordeal through
which we had just passed, and determining henceforth
never to refuse any request, sweetened by the lips of a
pretty damsel, unless, perchance, she should ask us for
our heart ! which, alas ! we have not to give.
To variegate our amusements, we occasionally indulged
in angling. My success, however, with the gun was
seldom equalled by that of the rod. One afternoon, I
remember, we repaired to an adjacent brook to procure
a few delicate little fishes for supper. The spot was
singularly beautiful. On either side of the stream was a
semicircular area of ground, covered only by a mantle of

148 PARA.
velvety grass, dotted here and there with flowering
bushes. The surrounding trees were of a prodigious
height, and, with their bending tops, formed a canopy of
the most lively verdure. Their trunks were interlaced
together by an infinity of running vines, and their loftiest
branches richly decorated with parasitic flowers of every
hue. Could a more delightful place for piscatory purposes
be desired ! Having baited our hooks, and made all
other preparatory arrangements, we sat down on the
bank, and quietly dropped our lines into the water.
How little did I surmise the sequel of this fishing adven
ture ! — how painfully mortifying the reminiscence ! for,
instead of waiting patiently, like a Job-like disciple of
Isaac Walton, I very inconsiderately, and very uninten
tionally, fell asleep ! Yes, indulgent reader ! when you
think of the amphitheatre of natural loveliness which
encircled us, the deep solitude of the woods, the narcotic
blandness of the atmosphere, and the monotonous rip
pling of the streamlet, you cannot be much surprised at
this extraordinary occurrence, for we ourselves would
have pardoned even Argus under similar circumstances,
should he have closed his hundred eyes and slept.
From my state of unconsciousness I was suddenly
awakened by sliding off the bank into the stream. What
a damper upon further proceedings ! Alligators I knew
were abundant ; so I scrambled up the bank as expedi
tiously as possible, and soon after returning to Jungcal, I

PARA. 149
comforted myself with the assurance that, although I
had caught no fish, yet I had secured an excellent bath.
My companion was much more fortunate, having suc
ceeded in capturing as handsome a string of fish as ever
met the eye of a happy angler. They were of various
sizes, odd shapes, and many colors ; some were of red
and yellow, while others were mottled with tints of gold
and purple, and their transparent scales glistened in the
sunshine like plates of burnished metals.
The Brazilian streams have many strange inhabitants.
Besides their numerous alligators, amphibious serpents,
tapirs, and others, there is a monstrous kind of fish
called the " peixe-boi" or fish-ox, which is as remarkable
as any of the others. It is, perhaps, the largest of all
fresh-water fish, measuring sometimes above seventeen
feet in length. The general appearance of its head
bears some resemblance to that of a calf. Its eyes are
exceedingly small, and the orifices of its ears so fine that
they can scarcely be discerned even by the most careful
observer. The skin looks like india-rubber, and is so
tough that it is almost invulnerable.
This curious animal derives its subsistence principally
from a certain plant which grows in the water. It
occasionally raises its head above the surface for the
purpose of respiration, and it is at such times that it is
captured. The Indians formerly made shields of its
tenacious hide, and its flesh is considered an excellent
substitute for beef.

150 PARA.
Without question, the most serious drawback to our
pleasures at Jungcal was the very great fecundity of
pernicious insects which swarmed amid the moist shades
of the forest, and flitted in the warm sunshine of the
campos. Besides being numerous, the mosquitoes were unusu
ally mischievous, and moreover quite corpulent. Many
fell victims to our wrath, but our wanton destruction of
so many valuable lives served only to excite the others
to revenge the loss of their companions. Detested
gallinipers ! Had it not been for them we might
possibly have lost sight of our own mortality in contem
plation of the Eden-like luxuries and delights which sur
rounded us.
We experienced, also, considerable annoyance from a
small insect known as the " chigoe" or jigger. This
insect is so extremely diminutive that it is seldom
observed. Having pierced the flesh of a person, it
deposits its eggs (which are contained in a little sac),
and there leaves them to their natural development.
The sac rapidly increases in size, until it becomes as
large as a common pea, when it begins to occasion a
sensible degree of pain. On first feeling this disagree
able sensation, the bag ought to be carefully extracted,
otherwise a troublesome sore is apt to be produced.
We observed that the feet of the natives were sadly
mangled, owing to their rough manner of cutting out
these sacs. The feet are more subject to the attacks

151

of these insects than any other part of the body, and we
noticed that in some instances the heels of the natives
were almost entirely gone,
A dentical operation which we saw one day per
formed, we can only think of with horror. The patient
was a poor old slave, decrepit, and grey-headed. For
some weeks past he had been a martyr to the agonies of
the toothache, and had at last resolved to have the offen
sive grinder extracted : for this purpose he applied to a
tall, brawny mulatto, who was something of a barber,
dentist, and sailor combined.
Having mutilated his victim's gums in a barbarous
manner with a rusty knife, he placed his miserable turn
key upon his tooth, and, with a savage wrench, suc
ceeded in breaking off a portion of it, which he triumph
antly exposed to the gaze of the sufferer. Again and
again he placed his turnkey upon the tooth, each time
breaking off another small piece. At last he gave up
in despair, being unable to get out the deeply-embedded
fangs. But never can I forget the agonizing look of
that venerable slave during the whole operation,
although no shrieks, or groans, or murmurs of disap
probation broke from his lips ; at the close, a half-sup
pressed sigh only fell upon our ears. For weeks after
wards his face was dreadfully swollen, and he was in far
greater pain than he had been before.
One day the black-eyed and charming Teresa was
taken ill of a fever. There were no doctors on the

152 PARA.
island, and we were fearful lest our Indian favorite
might be suddenly taken away to the spirit-land. Our
grief was uncontrollable, and we languished and pined
away in the bitterness of our heart !
Some of the natives were preparing a superstitious
decoction of grated bones, deer's horns, and other
strange ingredients, when we interfered, and besought
the privilege of administering to the fever-smitten
damsel ourselves. Our request was immediately
granted, and forthwith Teresa became our patient.
What medicines we gave her, or in what manner we
treated her complaint, we will not fatigue the reader by
relating. In the space of a week Teresa was so far
recovered that she was able to walk out and enjoy the
sweet breezes which blew freshly over the island at both
morning and evening.
After this astonishing cure, as may be supposed, our
selves and medicines were in great repute. We had
risen at least fifty per cent, in the opinion of the natives,
who seemed to regard us somewhat in the light of a
couple of necromancers or magicians. Our pills and
other panaceas were sought after with such eagerness
that our supply was soon exhausted. When this fact
was made known, the decrease in the number ef invalids
was strikingly manifest.
Sad were we when we took our last supper at Jung
cal. Early on the morrow J. and myself were to
separate for a brief season. An English naturalist, who

PARA. 153
had been for some time engaged in collecting specimens
at Cajueiro, in the interior of the island, had come
down in his canoe for the purpose of escorting me
thither. My companion was about to depart for the
city, and weeks were to elapse before we should meet
again.

7*

154 PARA.

CHAPTER XIV.
Departure for Cajueiro. — Character of my Companion. — Scenery
of the Stream by Starlight. — A beautiful Arbor. — Anecdote
of an Alligator. — Arrival at Cajueiro.
Long before the sun had tinged with light the dew-
drops of the forest we left Juncal, and were paddling
by the pale light of the stars up the arbored and intri
cate windings of the stream.
We were alone, and almost perfect strangers to each
other. My companion was a young man, possessed of
an ardent love for nature, who had left his native country
a year or two previous, in order that he might make
himself acquainted with the different birds and animals
which inhabit the vast and luxuriant forests of Brazil.
He was of a poetical temperament, and was wont to
look at everything with the eye of an enthusiast. He
had, moreover, assiduously cultivated the finer senti
ments with which nature had gifted him, and was well
aware ofthe exquisite delights which spring from a refined
fancy and well-regulated imagination. Any one of a
reflecting disposition must perceive that nothing is so apt
to pervert the judgment, reduce the standard of apprecia
tion, and result in grovelling materialism, as a total

PARA. 155
neglect in early life of these nobler faculties of the
mind. Our young Englishman was aware, of this fact, and
had educated himself accordingly. The result of such a
course of intellectual training was palpably manifest in
his character, which was rather of a romantic turn, and
inclined to perceive beauty in all the works of nature, and
to regard even the evils and sorrows of life as but passing
clouds, which cast their dark shadows before, only that
they may intensify the coming sunshine.
To a mind constituted like this, how beautiful does
the world appear — how magnificent — how grand — how
perfect ! Objects are not viewed according to their pro
portionate size or value, but everything is regarded as
inestimable, because it is the result of a consummate skill
... *
which defies imitation — the proof of an infinite wisdom
too deep to be fathomed or comprehended by the
utmost stretch of the human understanding.
Such was my companion, who was now journeying
with me up the streamlet, towards Cajueiro, in the misty
twilight of opening day !
Who could avoid being impressed with emotions of
the solemn and sublime, at such a time and on such an
occasion ? Stillness equal to that of the sepTfichre,
brooded over the enchanting scene, abruptly broken at
intervals by the hootings of owls or the voices of other
nocturnal birds. Now the grassy table-land would

156

extend away for miles to our left, dotted here and there
with solitary trees, shaking their branches mournfully,
and looking like spectres in the solemn starlight. On the
other side a gloomy yet splendid wilderness ran along
the margin of the stream, flinging its tall shadows across
the water, and adding grandeur to the witching land
scape. As we advanced, the brook gradually narrowed,
and became more and more crooked and serpentine in its
course, until, finally, the thick clustering foliage met in a
prolonged arch of verdure over our heads.
While winding through this natural labyrinth, the sun
suddenly emerged from the golden East, and besprinkled
us with a shower of luminous beams, which trembling
through the interstices of the leaves, seemed like the
spirits of so many diamonds ! A more divine spectacle
of beauty never was beheld. The most gorgeous crea
tions of the poet's imagination, if realized, could not sur
pass in magnificence this sun-lighted arbor, with its roses
and flowers of varied hues, all set like stars in a canopy
of green. Sprightly humming-birds flitted before us,
sparkling like jewels for a moment, than vanishing away
from our sight for ever. Butterflies with immense wings,
and moths of gay and striking colors, flew also from
floweT to flower, seeming like fairy tenants of the lonely
paradise around us. But the indefatigable musquitoes,
who were continually pouncing upon the unprotected
flesh of our faces and hands, as well as the mailed cay-

157

mans, who now and then plunged under our canoe with
a terrific snort, kept up a vivid conviction in our minds of
our own mortality.
As we were moving through a wider passage of the
stream, a sudden noise in the bushes on our left arrested
our attention ; in a moment after we perceived a large
animal running along the banks of the stream as
expeditiously as he was able. We immediately raised
our guns simultaneously to our shoulders, and fired.
Although we evidently gave the creature their full con
tents, yet it was without producing any other visible
effect than causing him to give a boisterous snort, and
then dart away furiously in the heart of the thicket.
Becoming at length somewhat fatigued with our con
stant use of the paddles, we guided our canoe beneath
the shelter of an overhanging tree, where we quietly
partook of our morning meal.
Humble as this meal was, those who have never been
placed under similar circumstances can have no idea
how much we enjoyed it. In lieu of sparkling wine,
we dipped up the pure water of the stream with our
calabashes, and drank it with as much pleasure as if it
had been the nectar of the gods.
" What an odd-looking bird that is !" I exclaimed, at
the same time pointing out to my companion a queer
kind of bird seated on a dry branch on the opposite
side of the stream, apparently watching for fish.
" That," replied he, " is an ' imperial boat-bill,' a rare

158 PARA.
and valuable bird. But let me shoot him first," said
he, " and I will give you a further account of him in an
obituary." Having said this he took up his gun, and in a
moment the bird was floating lifeless down the stream.
Putting our canoe in motion, we soon overtook it, and
picked it up from the water. Instantly the snort of a dis
appointed alligator, only a couple of rods from our canoe,
told us of the risk we had run of losing our feathered
prize. " These alligators," said my companion, " are hungry
fellows, and remarkably sharp-sighted. Not many
weeks since, as I was taking a hunting trip one morning
down the stream from Cajueiro, I shot a snow-white
egret, which fell into the water within a few yards of
my canoe. My dog, who was in the boat, plunged
instantly into the stream, and began to swim with great
rapidity towards the floating bird. I kept my eyes on
him with intense anxiety, fearing lest he might be seen
by some one of the ferocious monsters of the stream.
My apprehensions were but too well founded. No
sooner had the dog reached the bird than the wide jaws
of an alligator appeared above the surface, and, with a
suppressed but awful howl, the dog and bird sank to
rise no more. For a moment the water around was
crimsoned with blood, but the rapid current soon erased
all traces of the catastrophe."
Thus we proceeded on, without meeting with any

PARA. 159
further incidents of a surprising nature, although scenes
of novelty and beauty were constantly presenting them
selves to our delighted eyes. At last we perceived the
thatched cottages of Cajueiro through the openings of
the trees on our right.
Arriving at the wharf, we were met by several of the
kind-hearted natives, who gave us a cordial welcome,
and escorted us to the dwelling which was set apart for
our occupation.
Having swung our hammocks and lighted our pipes,
we sought relief from the fatigues of our journey,
under the soothing influence of a noonday siesta.

160

CHAPTER XV.
Location of Cajueiro. — The Scenery.— Our Habitation. — In
fested by Bats. — Conversation concerning these animals.—
Injustice done them. — Adventure with a Bittern. — " Salted
Ducks."
The dwellings at Cajueiro were located on a sandy knoll,
commanding a fine view of the country in every direction.
Away off to the right and in front, the grass-tufted
table-land or prairie extended, undulating in the soft
breeze like an ocean of verdure. Here and there were
groups of wild cattle grazing at a distance, and numbers
of untamed horses prancing buoyantly over the vast
meadow, their dark manes flowing like pirate banners,
and their long tails streaming gracefully in the wind.
Opposite the stream on our left was a beautiful grove
situated on a mound, somewhat higher than that which
the cottages occupied. At a distance from this stood a
solitary group of half a dozen palms, garnishing the
margin of the stream, and waving their delicate
branches to and fro, when not a breath seemed to
agitate the air.
Our habitation was but a mere hut, and looked as

PARA. 161
much hke a common haystack as anything else. It had
two apartments, or more properly cells, one of which
was appropriated by my English companion, the other
by myself.
We were comparatively little annoyed by insects at this
place. Bats, however, were exceedingly, numerous, and
for a time were regular disturbers of my repose. Some
times a dozen or more would amuse themselves for the
greater part of the night in flying round my " chamber,"
chattering and squeaking in a peculiar manner, some
thing like a bevy of cat-startled mice. " Were you ever
bitten by these creatures ?" I anxiously inquired of my
companion, on a certain occasion when a large party of
them were having a " noctes " in my apartment.
" No," said he, " I have never been bitten myself, but
the natives here are often phlebotomized by them. The
cattle too are frequently attacked, and I have sometimes
seen them with their sides striped with blood, from the
wounds inflicted by these merciless Sangrados."
" Strange stories abound in the journals of travellers
concerning the blood-sucking propensity of these animals.
Pray, did you ever hear a well authenticated case of a
person's having been bled to death by them ?"
" No," said he ; " most of these accounts of the depre
dations of bats are not only exaggerated, but are in many
cases entirely without foundation. As far as my own
experience is worth anything, I never saw a person in all
my wanderings who had sustained any serious injury

162 PARA.
from their bites. I have no fear of them whatever, but
on the contrary, look upon them generally as harmless
animals." " The ancients, you are aware, regarded the bats
almost in the light of winged demons; they believed
their bite to be fatal, and had many superstitious notions
respecting their diabolical powers. The poets, also, from
the time of Homer, have made use of them in heighten
ing the effect of their supernatural relations, making them
figure conspicuously with ghosts and evil spirits, in all
their imaginary descriptions of the infernal regions."
" All you have said is very true," responded my fellow
housekeeper ; " and it is the association with such
fabulous tales of the ancient poets, which has given to
the modern bats more than half their horrors ; poor
creatures ! — they never have had justice done them.
Indeed, I do not think they are as much to be dreaded
as the mosquitoes, notwithstanding that fearful, but
absurd trope, of their inflicting a venomous bite, and
then fanning the flesh of their unconscious victim with
their wings, in order to lull him into a more profound
repose while they are drawing from him his life's blood."
" This is a richly poetical figure," I exclaimed, " and I
have no doubt has contributed not a little towards keep
ing alive the ill-founded prejudice which exists against
these unfortunate animals. I perceive that they have
been hugely misrepresented. Henceforth I volunteer
myself as their champion, and am ready to espouse their

PARA. 163
cause. Knight of the Bats ! a goodly sounding title for
the jousts, methinks."
" A capital idea," responded my companion with a
laugh ; " the bats will always look upon you as their
benefactor. Champion of the Bats ! — Ha ! ha ! ha !
But, to speak seriously, it is not so very singular, after all,
that the bats should have been made the victims of
superstition. Their appearance certainly is decidedly
against them. Nothing could be more demoniacal than
their ugly countenances ! Then what enormous ears
they have, — what capacious mouths, and needle-pointed
teeth. Besides their horrid aspect, their habits tend also
to influence the superstition of the ignorant. They are
never seen flying about in the broad daylight, but only
in the gloaming, or when stars illumine the darkness of
night. They dwell too in old ruins, or in the hollow of
decayed trees ; in fact, everything connected with them
is of a character both to excite one's imagination and to
increase his credulity."
On the following day I made a short trip down the
streamlet. The sun shone brightly, and thousands of
gay-colored birds were chattering loudly among the
trees, as my light canoe moved swan-like down the rapid
current. The width of the stream was here from six to
twelve feet, and for more than a mile it was embowered
like an extended arbor.
Having sailed for about a mile down the stream, I came
to a low section of land, which was completely overflowed

164

by water. On one side was a noble grove, growing as it
were in a lake, and entirely free from underbrush and
creeping vines. On the other, the table land, with a few
trees grouped along the margin of the stream, was all
that was visible.
Casting my eyes in all directions, I perceived a
singular-looking object, apparently drawn into as small
a compass as possible, perched upon a huge log which
was lying motionless in the water. Putting my gun up
deliberately to my shoulder, the startled and slumbering
echoes of this solitude shrieked out the death-knell of the
bird. I saw at once that it was a species of bittern, as
soon as he fell off the log and lay floundering about in
the water. But how to get at him was a question yet to
be decided. On account of the bushes and trees which
ran along the bank of this side of the stream, it was
evident that it would be impossible for me to force the
canoe to the spot where the bird then lay. For a
moment I was uncertain what course to pursue, but stood
still, ruminating upon the possibility of being eaten by
alligators, or struck senseless by electrical eels. At last
my resolution was made, and I jumped into the water
making a heavy splashing with my hands, in order to
intimidate any caymans who might be prowling near.
Seizing the bird, I made my way back to the boat with
astonishing dispatch. Not five minutes had elapsed, be
fore my eye fell upon a large alligator, swimming about
in the vicinity of the fallen tree. I fired both barrels of

PARA. 165
my gun at him, almost simultaneously, and with a ter
rific snort he vanished beneath the surface.
Returning to Cajueiro, I was met at the wharf by the
Englishman, who had been delaying dinner nearly an
hour in expectation of my return.
" I hope," said he, " you have a good appetite, for I
intend to give you a feast of salted ducks for your
repast." " Salted ducks !" said I, in amazement ; " really I was
not aware that birds were ever salted. However, I have
no doubt but I shall like them, indeed anything would
be agreeable to my palate just now, for I'm as ' sharp
set ' as a cannibal."
So saying, we walked up to the house. A nice little
table was set out under the veranda, teeming with a
sumptuous variety of edibles, among which my eyes fell
directly upon the platter of salted ducks, which was ex
haling a cloud of savory smoke from the centre of the
table. My first taste was sufficient to convince me that
it was delicious, and eminently superior in flavor to any
thing I had hitherto eaten on the island.
" What put it in your head to salt these ducks ?" I
inquired of my companion ; " without exaggeration they
are the nicest things I have eaten in Brazil."
" Economy," said he, " gave me the first suggestion.
During the prevalence of the dry season, the carnpos
become dry and parched for want of rain, and the ducks
are obliged to resort to the streams for food. So ex-

166 PARA.
tremely warm is the water at this time, that it loosens
the wing-feathers of the ducks and causes them to fall
out. They are thus incapacitated for flight, and for
weeks are necessitated to live entirely upon the land.
The natives then hunt them with dogs, and sometimes
capture several hundreds in the course of a day. Not
being able to make use of one tenth part of the number
brought in, we salt them down for the rainy season, when
food is comparatively difficult to be procured. As beef
is the only solid meat we have, these we find very nice
as a change."
In addition to excellent beef and abundance of " salted
ducks," we had plenty of fresh milk at Cajueiro, which is
the more worthy of mention, from the fact that we had
hardly seen it elsewhere. In the city, no one ever mixes
milk with their coffee, and the little which is used for
other purposes is derived mainly from goats. The man
ner in which it is procured deserves perhaps a moment's
notice. The natives having driven a herd of wild cattle
into one of the pens, a number of the calves are caught
and firmly secured by ropes. The cattle are then per
mitted to leave the pen, but the mothers of the captives
always remain behind, only leaving them to graze on
the nearest grass. Returning with their pouches well
filled with milk to feed their offspring, the natives take
from them a portion of the snow-white fluid, leaving
sufficient, however, for the maintenance of the calves.

PARA. 167

CHAPTER XVI.
Wild Horses. — Manner of breaking them. — Slaughter of a fero
cious Bull. — Turkey Buzzards. — Death and Burial. — Funerals
in the City. — An Evening Conversation. — Importance of study
ing Nature.
Many wild horses are still caught at Cajueiro. One day
a party of eight or ten of the natives, mounted on well
disciplined steeds, and headed by the Englishman, went
out on the campos for this purpose. Perched amid the
branches of a tall tree, I had an extensive view of the
grassy plain, and was able distinctly to observe all the
movements of the equestrians.
The horsemen were riding rapidly in the direction of
a small grove, when suddenly a troop of forty or fifty of
the wild creatures emerged from behind it, and bounded
away with astonishing velocity over the meadow. A
spirited chase was now commenced by the mounted
natives, who strained their swift animals to their greatest
capacity ; never did I witness a more intensely exciting
spectacle than the one which was now before me. The
manes and tails of the horses were flying wildly in the
air, while a mass of hoofs were rising and falling with

168

a rapidity which showed how tightly strung were the
muscles of the animals.
To my surprise the Englishman kept the lead, and
was obviously gaining upon the quick-footed fugitives.
Coming up with them, he seized his lasso, and began to
swing it around his head, gradually enlarging the circles
by permitting the smooth rope to slip gently through
his fingers.
By a sudden motion, at the same instant plunging the
spurs into his charger, in order to increase his speed if
possible, he dashed quickly forward, and hurled his lasso
with unerring skill around the neck ofthe foremost horse.
The herd were now thrown into a panic, and wheeling
"around in their course, they were completely surrounded
by their pursuers. Several were lassoed by the natives,
and the remainder kept together by two or three of the
horsemen, who were continually circling around them ;
not one escaped, and ere an hour had elapsed, they were
driven safely into one of the pens at Cajueiro, neighing
loudly, and their mouths covered with creamy foam.
The best horses being selected from the herd, and pro
perly secured, the others were again turned at large.
The mode adopted by the natives of breaking them,
cannot be styled by any other term than that of barba
rous ; yet it is so efficacious that the poor animals are
rendered perfectly docile and manageable in the course
of two or three days.
One afternoon an opportunity was afforded me of wit-

169

nessing the operation. In the largest inclosure proudly
stood one of the majestic animals, kicking up the earth
with his hoofs, and shaking the heavy mane on his finely
curved neck, while his bright eyes glanced fearfully
around him, and his loud laughing voice ringing wildly
in the quiet air, seemed to be calling on his far-off com
panions for relief.
The fiery creature was held by a strong halter of
at least fifteen feet in length, manned by three of the
muscular and bare-chested natives. Soon a noose was
thrown around his neck by a couple of powerful blacks
stationed on the opposite side of the inclosure. They
then pulled with all their strength one way, while those
who had hold of the halter exerted themselves vehe
mently in the contrary direction. The object evidently
was to effect partial strangulation, in order that they
might weaken and temporarily overcome the wonderful
power of the spirited creature.
Violent were the plunges of the captive steed as he
sought in vain, by superhuman exertions, to free himself
from the grasp of his cruel tormentors, who stood like
heartless demons around him. His terrific leaps only
served to draw the cord tighter and tighter about his
neck ; his breathing became more and more difficult, and
might have been heard audibly at the distance of a fur
long. His heart beat as if it would burst from his heav
ing bosom, and his veins stood out in ridges along^is
quivering flesh. At last, overwhelmed with the intensity
6

170 PARA.
of his agony, and powerless from suffocation, he fell, and
for an instant lay without sense or motion upon the
ground. The noose was immediately loosed about his
neck, and shortly returning consciousness began to light
his glazed eyes — the fresh air swelled his nostrils, and his
tremendous chest rose and fell like the billows of the
sea. At the expiration of fifteen minutes he was once
more on his feet, but how different from the magnificent
animal who had stood, in his native pride and dignity,
pawing that sandy soil an hour before ! Weak — hardly
able to stand — his head drooping, and his eyes without
a ray, he looked like a miserable spectre of his former
self — like a monarch dragged from his throne, who has
been scoffed at by those whom he had before despised,
and forced to be a wretched and miserable slave !
The persecution of the horse was now by no means
concluded. As soon as he had recovered somewhat
from his exhaustion, he was mounted by a naked
Indian, who was rewarded for his temerity by being
thrown to a considerable distance over the head of the
animal. The native, however, was but little hurt, and
in a few moments again resumed his dangerous seat.
This time he kept his place, notwithstanding the vast
efforts of the animal to shake him off; in fact, the horse
and his rider, being of nearly the same color, brought
vividly to my mind the remembrance of an ancient
Centaur. The animal was now held tightly by a long rope, and

PARA. 171
forced to run round and round in a circle. Whenever
he flagged, or manifested the slightest obstinacy, a
native, with a heavily knotted cord swinging around his
head, would give him a terrible blow on his flanks, the
pain of which was almost sufficient to drive him to
madness. Gradually he became more and more pas
sive, and at the end of another hour was quite tractable.
I then left the spot, and returned to the cottage, feeling
nearly as sad in spirit as if I had been witnessing the
racking of a human victim in one of the gloomy dun
geons of the Inquisition.
Thus much for the horse, who, whether seen sharing
the humble tent of the Arab, or toiling laboriously amid
the noise and bustle of crowded cities, or gliding fear
lessly over his native plains in all the nobility of free
dom, is truly a splendid as well as useful animal,
well deserving the goodwill and admiration of man
kind. The cattle belonging to the different estates on
Marajo are distinguished by particular marks, which are
branded on their sides with red-hot irons. Their ears
are, besides, cut in a peculiar manner. Unmarked cattle
are the lawful'property of the first one who catches
them, and are branded accordingly with the recognised
stamp of the captor.
Scarcely a week passed by at Cajueiro without the
slaughter of one or more oxen, as food for the natives.
On a certain day, an Indian horseman rode in from the

172 PARA.
campo, leading by the horns a ferocious bull which he
had recently captured. The formidable animal, with his
head bent down, pulled tightly on the lasso, apparently
aware of the bloody doom which awaited him. En
raged beyond measure, he sto'od gazing at his antago
nist, kicking up the sand with his feet, and at the same
time roaring and bellowing in a manner indescribably
awful and grand !
The bold horseman, not at all disturbed by the wild
fury and menacing attitude of the bull, and perceiving
that it would- be some time before he would be able to
bring the savage creature on his haunches, determined
to make an end of him by a skilful coup de main. For
this purpose he sprang suddenly from his horse and put
his small red cap upon his head. No sooner was this
seen by the maddened animal, than he rushed franti
cally towards his dauntless adversary, lowering his horns
in order to gore him to death. On, on he came with
awful vehemence, and I could not avoid putting my
hand up unconsciously before my eyes, so intensely hor
rifying was the spectacle. When the beast was within
a ' few feet of him, Pedro jumped a little on one side,
and with a quick blow of his long knife, he nearly
severed the fore legs of the bull, whose own dreadful
impetus threw him headlong upon the ground. The
cold steel of Pedro glittered once more in the air, and
wajfcthen plunged with a strong arm into the capacious
breast of the prostrate animal. In a moment after, it

PARA. 173
flashed again in the sunlight, followed by a jet of crim
son blood, which spouted out indignantly from the
wound. A dramatic scene now ensued. Two of the natives,
acting in the capacity of butchers, almost immediately
commenced skinning and quartering the enormous crea
ture, before life itself was hardly extinct. A group,
composed of all the Indians and blacks of the place,
stood around, each one waiting anxiously to be served
with his portion. In an incredibly short time, the flesh
was entirely cut up and distributed among the islanders,
and nothing was left of the fierce animal who had
raved and roared and manifested such prodigious
strength but _a few moments previous, save a gory
and grizzly carcase, smoking in the warm sunshine,
and literally covered with a host of ravenous buzzards,
who were busily picking off the small particles of meat
which still adhered to the bones. These birds are
remarkably numerous in Brazil, and are of great utility
in devouring carrion of all kinds, thus preventing disease
by preserving the purity of the atmosphere. They are
seldom molested by the natives, and in the city it would
be considered almost a crime to kill one. Thus we see
the infinite wisdom of nature displayed in all her
admirable creations, and perceive that no object is so
odious but will become both pleasing and interesting, if
we will but give it our study and attention.
The death of an old female slave occurred while the

174 PARA.
writer was at Cajueiro, but this was an event which did
not in the slightest degree impair the universal hilarity
of the natives. The body was simply sewed up in a
coarse cotton sheet, and then deposited in the ground
with as little ceremony as if it was a case of planting
instead of burial of the dead. No one exhibited any
feeling on the occasion, although the deceased had
been much esteemed during her lifetime. Even while
filling up the grave, the natives indulged freely in bois
terous conversation and jocund laughter.
The spot where the deceased was buried was one of
incomparable beauty. Two or three palms stood near,
drooping their branches" low, as if in sadness. The
brook stole almost imperceptibly through the thick
shrubbery, with a low and mellow sound. The birds
chirped cheerily in tbe adjacent grove — and insects flut
tered in the air — but, alas ! there was not a sigh to be
heard, telling that the hand of death had invaded this
terrestrial paradise, and that an immortal soul had gone
away from its beautiful shades for ever — had taken its
eternal flight to the unknown " spirit land."
The public funerals in the cities contrast strangely
with the humble burial scene just described. On these
occasions, a splendid coffin, containing the body of the
deceased, is supported on the shoulders of six or eight
men, and in this manner carried to the church, followed
by an extensive and brilliant procession of hypocritical
mourners. The men are generally dressed in deep black,

PARA. 175
and some of them carry blazing torches in their hands.
On arriving at the church, the coffin is placed upon a
pedestal profusely hung with a costly drapery of silk
and crape. The dead body is then removed from the
coffin, and buried beneath one of the large marble slabs
of the floor, or placed in a catacomb, made in the massive
walls of the edifice.
Mr. Kidder thus remarks : — " The coffin used in the
ceremony is not interred with the corpse, being kept by
the church or brotherhood for the purpose of renting
on such occasions. When the bodies are placed in the
catacombs, quick-lime is thrown upon them to hasten
the process of decay ; and after the lapse of about twelve
months, the cavity is opened, and the bones of the dead
are taken out and cleaned. The friends of the deceased
then cause the remains to be inclosed in a box, to remain
at the church, or to be taken home at pleasure. These
boxes are generally left in the church, the families
preserving the key ; but an instance was mentioned to
me, of a gentleman who kept the bones of his deceased
wife in his own sleeping-room. The cases and boxes are
of different sizes and shapes, but seldom have any resem
blance to coffins. Some are large, like mausoleums ;
others, with their ornamental exterior, resemble large
dressing-cases. It is highly incongruous to witness, in
such a place, the display of ornament ; and yet some of
these mortuary boxes are adorned with drapery of gold
and silver tissue, wrought upon satin and velvet, to please

176 ' PARA.
the eye, and call forth the admiration of those who may
visit the cloister."
The evening was clear and serene, and the stars
glittered as brightly as if seen through a telescope. We
were seated alone under the rude porch of our little
cottage at Cajueiro, inhaling the soothing fumes of our
well-filled "cachimbos," and gazing with admiration
alternately at the world-studded infinity above, and the
wild magnificence of luxuriant and varied scenery which
surrounded us !
" How sublime is an evening in the tropics !" exclaimed
my enthusiastic companion, " and how well calculated
to refine the mind, and fill it with noble aspirations and
sentiments ! methinks the most corrupted mind on
earth could not but be benefited by visiting so lovely a
spot as this !"
" There is no denying," I replied, " the sovereign power
which the consciousness of beauty exerts upon the mind.
The appreciation of it seems to be the great prerogative
which mind has over instinct ; the brute is insensible to
its divine influence, and can gaze upon the most exquisite
objects, the most enchanting scenery, without a shadow
of emotion. Do you not think that there are some men
with but little more perception ?"
" I know that there are many," he replied, " who
manifest scarcely any sympathy with the beautiful
works of nature ; but it is because the faculty has been
stifled by the pleasures of sense ; it exists in every man,

PARA. 177
and, like all mental perceptions, may be developed by
proper culture !"
" Do you not think it would be better if more atten
tion was paid at our schools and academies in instruct
ing young men in the natural sciences, and thus direct
ing their minds to the contemplation of nature's
wonders ?"
" I certainly do," said he, " and the sooner such studies
are commenced, the more powerful and beneficial will be
the impression which they will make upon the mind and
character of the child. Character I say — for who ever
saw a lover of nature who was a villain ? who ever heard
of a naturalist who was not moreover a moral and good
man. If Heaven ever blesses me with children, I shall
commence early to point out to them, and to explain, as
far as I am able, the manifold wonders and beauties which
surround them. I would strive diligently to impress
upon their growing minds the universal beauty and
utility of all the works of nature, however useless and
ordinary some of them may appear to their imperfect
comprehensions. A man may not be able to read
the Hebrew language, and therefore say in his igno
rance, that because the written signs convey no mean
ing to him, they are of no particular value ; while
another person may perceive in those unmeaning signs
the world-moving thoughts of the inspired penmen.
" If, then, it is of essential importance that we should
be made acquainted with those signs by which we can
8*

178 PARA.
fathom the thoughts of the wisest of mankind, of how
much greater importance is it that we should learn those
marvellous signs which constitute the language of Nature,
a language by which we can read the very thoughts of
God !"

PARA. 179

CHAPTER XVII.
Hunting Excursion. — Adventure with an Alligator. — Beautiful
Grove. — Rookery of the Scarlet Ibises. — Departure from
Cajueiro.
In the morning we left our palmetto cottage, at least an
hour before dawn, and embarked in a small canoe on a
hunting excursion up the streamlet. By sunrise we were
already several miles from the hamlet, and as far as our
eyes could reach in every direction, the tufted prairie land
extended, its monotony being only interrupted by occa
sional patches of palm trees, and the dense shrubbery
and thickets which in some places shaded the banks of
the stream. As we were proceeding cautiously along,
and anxiously awaiting an opportunity to disturb the
profound silence which reigned, our attention was sud
denly directed to a number of Marreca ducks, whom we
saw flying up and down within a few rods in advance of
. us. From our own experience, and the supposition of
our Indian companions, we rightly conjectured that an
immense flock of these birds were lying in ambush in
the grass. Having arrived within a short distance of
the spot where they were assembled, they took alarm,
and rising from both sides of the stream like a cloud,

180 PARA.
they almost obscured the light of the sun. We fired
our pieces simultaneously at them, and after the smoke
had cleared away, we picked up about thirty of the
ducks which had fallen dead into the water, and among
the rushes along the bank.
As we were passing through a widened part of the
stream, we observed a prodigious alligator, nearly
twenty feet in length, with his enormous gorgon-like
head entirely out of the water. As we were fortu
nately provided with a rude harpoon, our Indian com
panions said that with our permission they would endea
vor to capture and destroy this hideous monster. As
we offered no objection, they immediately prepared to
carry their bloody project into execution. One of the
natives seized the harpoon with both his hands, and taking
deliberate aim, he hurled the instrument with all his
power into an uncovered part of the animal's neck or
breast. The ferocious monster, smarting with, the pain,
dashed beneath the surface, and swimming off, dragged
our little canoe after him with fearful rapidity. It
was, indeed, an exciting moment ; but our courageous
companions, however, were by no means intimidated
at the fury of the animal, assuring us that he would
soon become exhausted through loss of blood. Hav
ing waited for full half an hour in the canoe, and
becoming somewhat impatient, one of our men dis
patched the dying alligator with an axe. Cutting off
his head in the style of the illustrious "Jack the

PARA. 181
Giant Killer," we secured it as a trophy and pro
ceeded on our way.
The streamlet in its course intersected a hand
some grove of shady palms, whose branches formed
an umbrageous canopy above us. As there was no
underbrush, we could not resist the temptation to go
on shore, and take a short ramble among the trees ;
we did so, and found the grove well supplied with
various kinds of fruits, principally oranges, bananas, and
guavas ! We observed several curious birds' nests
suspended from the branches of the trees. These nests
were some of them upwards of three feet in length,
and were ingeniously constructed of twigs and vines
interwoven together.
Wandering for a short distance beyond the pre
cincts of the grove, I perceived a small bird with a
bright crimson breast, sitting amid the branches of a
flowering bush. I instantly raised my gun and fired,
but alas for .me, about one half of my charge
passed into a large hornets' nest, which was con
cealed from view by the thickness of the leaves ! For
a moment I was vigorously beset by hundreds of
the insects that I had so innocently and involuntarily
disturbed ! Believing that in this case " discretion was
the better part of valor," I instantly took refuge in
flight. The speed with which I dashed over the
meadow was really a source of wonder to myself,
and to my great satisfaction and delight, I soon left

182 PARA.
my infuriated pursuers far behind me ! Having
regained my companions, I told them of my adven
ture, who, however, instead of pitying my misfortune,
indulged in immoderate laughter, though I was really
convulsed with pain !
Having collected together a quantity of the deli
cious fruits of the grove, together with some rare
plants, we put them in our boat, and once more " set
sail." The temperature of the atmosphere was delight
ful, while a refreshing breeze from the ocean was fan
ning the tall grass ofthe campo.
Having proceeded for a mile further, our guides
pointed out to us a dense thicket on the right bank,
which they said was inhabited by the scarlet ibis.
We shortly arrived at the desired spot, and securing
our boat to a tree, we equipped ourselves and went
ashore. I had never before encountered a thicket
of so dense and impassable a nature.
The birds certainly displayed considerable foresight
in selecting such a safely protected spot for their
habitation, as it would be utterly impossible for any
animal whatever to molest them in their well-chosen
retreat. Nothing could be better adapted for their
security against the inroads of their enemies than this
vegetable fortress, barricaded as it was by innumera
ble bamboo canes, and several kinds of thorny
cactus and Spanish bayonets, besides numbers of tall
mangroves and palmettoes, all so intertwined and

PARA. 183
matted together, that it was with the greatest possi
ble difficulty that we were able to force our way
through it, even with the assistance of our well-sharp
ened swords. In passing along, we several times
tripped over tangled vines lying under our feet, and
scratched our limbs quite seriously against the sharp
thorns with which the bushes were amply provided !
In the interior of this almost impenetrable thicket
was the citadel of the beautiful ibis ; and here every
bush and tree had on it from five to twenty nests.
These nests were about a foot and a half in diameter,
and were perfectly flat. They were composed of dry
twigs and fibrous roots, twined together and covered
with leaves. The ibises, being disturbed by our
approach, rose up in immense numbers around us, and
filled the air with their cries. Although naturally very
timid, yet they cannot be forced away from their
rookery, and at this time they continued flying in circles
but a short distance over our heads. I have no doubt
that this rookery alone included at least a thousand
feathered inhabitants. The plumage of the full grown
ibis is of the richest crimson, with the exception of the
extremities of the primary wing feathers, which are
tipped with bluish-black, and form a pleasing contrast
with the general scarlet hue of the bird.
A more striking spectacle, particularly to an enthu
siastic naturalist, than a large flock of these splendid

184 PARA.
birds floating through the air, like a crimson cloud,
cannot possibly be conceived !
The rookeries of the ibises are only tenanted during
the dry season, the rainy months rendering them wholly
unfit for occupation. Throughout this period the ibises
wander about in small parties, resting during the night
amid the thick foliage of the forest. They may be
easity domesticated if taken while young, but in this state
they are quite uninteresting in their habits, and are more
over entirely destitute of the bright scarlet plumage which
characterizes them in their wild and natural condition.
During the breeding season the ibises are accustomed
to make daily visits to the sea shore, for the purpose of
procuring food. In these excursions they are governed
altogether by the state of the tide, visiting the shores
while it is falling, and returning again to their nesting-
places as soon as it begins to flow. They fly together
in flocks of several hundreds, and sometimes even thou
sands, and the regularity and beauty of their evolutions
in the air are almost sufficient to convince the spectator
that these birds must be subject to a perfect code of
military discipline. Indeed, allowing that they are
prompted thus to act through the force of instinct, does it
seem any the less strange that such a large assemblage
of birds should be prompted to do exactly the same
thing at exactly the same time, without any mutual con
currence or intercourse the one with the other ?

PARA. 185
The white ibis manifests considerable ingenuity in its
capture of the craw-fish, one of its favorite articles of
food. During the dry season this curious little animal
burrows in the earth to the depth of three or four feet,
and is, when thus concealed, quite inaccessible to its
enemies. Now, what does the ibis do ! Like a true
philosopher, he does not murmur at the obstacles which
stand in the way of his desires, but cunningly resorts to
an effectual stratagem to secure his purpose. Walking
up deliberately to the little sandy mound which the
craw-fish throws up in digging its subterranean retreat,
it entirely demolishes it, and causes a quantity of the
dirt and sand to fall into the open cavity. The indus
trious little craw-fish, perceiving the ruin that has been
occasioned, although ignorant of the cause, immediately
rushes out to repair the injury, but no sooner does he
make his appearance on the outside than he is seized by
the wily bird, who immediately masticates and swallows
him. Returning to Cajueiro, we shot a fine specimen
of the " wood ibis." This remarkable bird feeds chiefly
on fish, young rails, and crabs, as well as small alligators,
snakes, and turtles. Truly, reader, what an epicure
must the " wood ibis" be !
Paddling swiftly on, we arrived at our humble cot
tage about an hour before sunset. Our game and other
luggage was speedily conveyed within the house by our

186 PARA.
companions, who proceeded without delay to prepare
some of the birds for supper. This meal was served up
at seven o'clock, and, together with good coffee, roast
ducks, and " mingow," it was anything but a contemptible
affair.

PARA. 187

CHAPTER XVIII.
Departure from Cajueiro. — Conversation on Melancholy. — A
Song. — Parrots. — Ciganas. — The Cyracura. — Departure from
Marajo and arrival at Para.
It was not many days after the hunting excursion
related in the preceding chapter, that the writer of
this humble narrative bade farewell to Cajueiro — for
ever. While making preparations to get off, several of the
warm-hearted islanders came down to the brook side,
bringing in their hands presents of various kinds, with
which they loaded our canoe.
These consisted of about a dozen chickens, a number
of loquacious parrots, several huge bunches of bananas,
and a miscellaneous assortment of other fruit.
All things being nicely stowed away in the montaria,
and my " adieus" having been rendered to each one of
the natives separately, we shoved off from the shore, and
were soon floating rapidly down the stream, assisted by
both current and tide.
Casting a lingering gaze upon the beautiful spot
where some of my happiest hours had flitted so swiftly

188 PARA.
away, my sight rested upon the cottages, and took in the
vast area of table-land, which stretched out like a lake
dotted with islets, to the very borders of the horizon ;
my last glance fell upon the group of dusky islanders,
who were still standing on the bank of the stream,
watching attentively our canoe as it receded farther and
farther from their view ; my eyes closed involuntarily,
perhaps to restrain a brewing storm of tears, and when
they were again re-opened, the glorious scene upon
which I had but a moment before gazed in all its
native simplicity and beauty, could be seen no more !
It had vanished, like the thought of a dream — never to
return !
Instead of the open landscape I had just beheld
nothing now could be seen but the canopy of dew-span
gled leaves, which clustered iu luxuriant profusion above
us ; it seemed as if we had suddenly entered a tunnel,
leading to some enchanted region of fairy-land, so bright
and beautiful did everything then appear ; the birds
chattered amid the shrubbery, and sometimes darted
with meteor-like swiftness up and down the sylvan
avenue ; insects gleamed in the flickering rays of sun
light, which had struggled through the crevices of the
overhanging foliage ; each leaf seemed to be enriched
with a hundred shining gems, while the arbor itself was
decorated throughout its entire length with many thou
sand brilliant flowers. Such a scene as this was well
calculated to refresh my sinking spirits, and to raise my

PARA. 189
thoughts from the painful state of despondency into
which they had fallen.
" You seem to be rather gloomy," said my compa
nion ; " you could not give more emphatic assurance
that your visit to Cajueiro has been a pleasant one. But
you must not give way to melancholy ! this is a disease
of the imagination alone, and unless suppressed in its
early stages, will occasion a vast deal of unnecessary
misery through life. It never fails, when frequently
indulged in, to undermine the physical health of its
votaries, and, like a morbid cancer, to gnaw into their
very souls."
" Your advice is certainly very good," I replied, " but
do you think it would be possible for any one practically
to carry it out ; I, for my part, think not ; we may in a
measure restrain a disposition to melancholy, but there
are times when all persons are more or less affected by
it — sunshine may prevail for a time, but darkness and
storms will sooner or later succeed. Sorrow and gloom,
hke dismal spectres, will occasionally penetrate all the
barriers which philosophy may raise, haunting the hap
piness and poisoning the peace of the strongest and best
regulated minds. But, in a word, allow me to inquire if
you yourself are never troubled with sadness ?"
" I will frankly admit," answered the Englishman,
" that I have not been entirely exempt from the mental
disorder of which we have been speaking, but I think I
can also add, with equal truth, that few men are less

190 PARA.
affected with it than myself. My thoughts sometimes
revert to the happy period of my childhood, when exist
ence seemed like an opening dream, and the world
itself a blissful paradise. I think of my own natural
wildness and fondness to rove ! of the playmates of my
boyhood, the companions of my youth — alas ! where
are they now ? scattered far and wide over the face of
the earth, or sleeping soundly in their fresh-made
graves ! My kind parents, too, where are they ? Me
thinks I hear them sometimes whispering to me in my
dreams, or see them among the stars of heaven, beckon
ing, as it were, to their wayward son to follow them ;
astonished, I awake from the dream and find a solitary
tear trembling on my eyelid ! When such thoughts as
these force themselves upon me, for a few moments I
experience a pang of grief, but on such occasions I
always rouse myself to my utmost, and generally suc
ceed in expelling the unwelcome intruders from my
mind. We should not be too extravagant in our expec
tations of future pleasure, else we shall be subject to
continual disappointments ; neither should we regret too
much that which is irrevocably past, for by so doing we
not only throw away our time, but we render ourselves
miserable for the sake of a phantom, and insensible to
all the pleasures of the present, which, under other cir
cumstances, might have afforded us peace and happi
ness. Truly, how often do men relinquish the substance
in order to grasp a shadow !"

PARA. 191
" Well, my dear fellow," said I, " let us talk no longer
about shadows ; the sun is so intolerably hot, that my
metaphysical thoughts and sentiments have evaporated
altogether, and I sincerely hope (for the sake of the
reader) that yours have also."
" They have, I assure you," retorted the Englishman,
putting on a jolly expression ; " let me light your pipe,
and you can make an end of your sadness — in smoke !
As for myself, I promise to be as lively as a lark during
the remainder of our voyage. Listen, and I'll give you a
song." " Really," said I, as soon as he had concluded, " you
have more of the nightingale in you than I supposed, —
that chorus was delightful ! It sounded more like the
music of a full choir, than of two persons, so intense was
the stillness of Nature when you began, but you have
aroused all the birds of the forest from their noonday
slumbers, and now the woods are alive again with their
strange notes and uproarious chattering. They seem to
be calling upon you for an encore !"
" And they shall have it," said he ; and once more he
joined his voice with that of Pedro, and again the same
wild and thrilling strain swelled upon the air, calling
loudly upon the echoes of the forest for a response. But
they answered not ! The song had hardly ceased, before
a large flock of noisy parrots»adighted on the top of a tree,
not far from our canoe, for the purpose of regaling them
selves upon its fruit ; instantly a report from my gun,

192 PARA.
which Pedro had caught hastily up, brought down four
of the feathered chatterers into the water. They were
splendid birds, with rich green wings, and a spot of glow
ing crimson on their backs. Soon after this incident, we
shot two odd-looking birds, called by the natives Ciganas,
who were making a strange and vociferous screaming in
the dense thicket of canes and low bushes on our left.
They were about the size of champion fighting cocks, of
a reddish brown color, with a singular crest of long
feathers on their head, which they could erect or depress
at pleasure. A perfect specimen of the Great South
American Rail also fell into our hands, — my quick-eyed
companion caught a glimpse of him, as he was feeding
in apparent security, beneath the sheltering roots of a
spreading mangrove. In a moment he was a corpse.
This bird is an especial favorite with the natives, and is
not only esteemed for the delicacy of its flesh, which we
considered fully equal to that of any other bird we tasted
in Brazil, but also for its social qualities, as well as its
cheerful voice. It seems to unite the virtues of the Robin
with those of Chanticleer ! Before the break of day, and
in the gloaming of eve, we were accustomed to hear its
merry voice, chanting in loud, yet mellowed tones, the
word " Cy-ra-cu-ra," which the Indians have adopted as
the name of the bird. To listen, in the quiet of early
evening, to the notes of thisljird was to me a source of
inexpressible delight; when we heard them for the first
time we were at a loss to determine whether the mvste«

193

rious sounds came from man, or bird, or beast. We
could scarcely credit the fact, that this tremendous yet
musical uproar emanated from the throat of a single
bird. It seemed to our ears as if the whole forest was
vocal with the strange melody of a thousand unknown
birds. Nearing Jungcal, most of the natives and slaves on the
place, came down to the water's edge to welcome us.
Having secured our montaria, we were conducted up to
the house of Anzevedo, where the hospitable Senhor soon
caused a substantial meal to be provided for us.
" I have a pair of tame Marreca ducks for you," said he,
" to add to your live stock, which for my sake you will
take care of while living, and preserve when dead, as
mementos of Jungcal. They have lived with me for
many months : I have fed them daily with my own
hands, and have become quite attached to them, but I
freely give them up to you, and am sorry that I have
nothing better to offer."
" Your gift is as acceptable," I answered, " as if it had
been that of a kingdom. You give me that which you
love, the absence of which (however trivial to others)
will occasion you a certain degree of sorrow — could the
richest monarch do more ? We can only judge of the
value of a gift by the sacrifice which it occasions the
donor, and a single lock of hair from those we love is
dearer to us than the crowns and diadems of princes !"
At 5 o'clock p. m., I bade adieu to my friend the
0

194

Englishman, and shook hands for the last time with
Anzevedo, as well as with each of the happy, though
unsophisticated islanders. Teresa and Florence were
more affectionate, inasmuch as they each of them favored
me with a parting kiss !
It was evening when our schooner parted from its
picturesque moorings, and noiselessly floated down the
stream, by the magic light of ten thousand stars. Over
powered with fatigue, I finally threw myself into my
hammock, and soon sank into a delicious repose. When
morning came not a trace of land was to be seen ; a
wide waste of untroubled waters was before and around
us ! * * * Our voyage was a pleasant one, and, on the
evening of the fifth day, our vessel was once more riding
snugly at anchor in the commodious harbor of Para.

PARA. 195

CHAPTER XIX.
A Night-Scene in the Harbor of Para. — J. again. — A new
Acquaintance — Present of a Boa Constrictor. — A Walk to
Mr. Campbell's Roscenia. — Travellers' Tales. — A Fourth of
July Dinner.
The schooner was moored about forty rods from the
shore, and at this distance the appearance of the city was
truly romantic and beautiful. The moon had not yet
risen, but myriads of lustrous stars were beaming upon
the enchanting scenery which surrounded us. The little
islands, too, which dotted here and there the lake-like
expanse of the river, loomed up in the distance like the
palaces of sylvan deities, while the gloomy forest which
stood in all its solemn magnificence along the Amazonian
banks, seemed like a gigantic and impenetrable wall
of strange and never-fading verdure.
It was late, and the spirit of silence brooded over the
slumbering city ! The only sounds which came to our
ears were the occasional harsh cries of wild animals —
the washing of the tide upon the beach, and the doleful
notes of nocturnal birds. So captivating was the scene,
that for hours after my arrival I thought not of repose,
but paced up and down the deck like an unlaid ghost ;

196 PARA.
until at last nature becoming exhausted, I consigned
myself to my hammock, to dream of the pleasures I had
already experienced, and of the kind friends I expected
to meet on the morrow.
Soon after sunrise Gaviono had my luggage all placed
in the montaria, and accompanied me himself not only
to the shore, but even to Mr. Campbell's house. As soon
as I had shaken hands with Mr. Campbell, who received
me with the kindness of a father, my first inquiries were
concerning my beloved companion, " J." who, the reader
will remember, separated from me at Jungcal.
" You will find him in his room, I think," said Mr.
Campbell. " He did not retire until very late last night,
and I hardly think he has yet risen. We spent the
evening together in playing cribbage."
A.t this moment J. issued from his apartment, and we
threw ourselves cordially into each other's arms. " My
dear fellow," asked I, " pray where have you been since
I last saw you ?"
" My head-quarters," replied he, " have been at Nazere,
but a considerable portion of my time has been spent in
the city. Last week I revisited Caripe. .. The recollec
tion, however, of Mr. and Mrs. Graham, who were
drowned there so recently, rendered the place more soli
tary and lonely than ever, and clouded the enjoyment
which I otherwise might have experienced."
" I spent a day moreover at the Una," said J.,
" and returned the following morning. I went thither to

PARA. 197
attend a kind of jubilee or festival, and we had a
very jovial scene. The evening was devoted to music,
dancing, and feasting, and that, too, in the beautifully
laid-out grounds of the garden. I wished heartily
that you had been with me, for I know that you would
have enjoyed yourself exceedingly. I was at Taau for
full three days ; this is an estate, you are aware, belong
ing to Archibald Campbell, Esq. It is situated on a high
bank, and is decidedly the most charming spot I have
yet seen in Brazil. I killed several fine toucans there,
and some other rare as well as handsome birds. The .
natives procured for me quite a number of curiosities,
among which was a large sloth, two or three kinds of
armadilloes, together with a miscellaneous assortment of
insects and reptiles, all of which I preserved and brought
with me to the city."
" You certainly have been making the most of your
time," I replied ; " but have you decided where we are
to go next ?"
" By all means," said J., " providing you are willing
and in readiness. We will go to Mr. Upton's rice-mills
at Maguary, without delay — say the day after to-mor
row." " The very place !" I exclaimed with delight. " We
will depart on the morning of the fifth. Do the Ameri
cans purpose making any manifestation to-morrow, the
glorious anniversary of our independence ?"
" They have made preparations for having a grand

198

national dinner, to which we are both invited," said he.
" It will, doubtless, be a very interesting affair, and there
will probably be as many Englishmen present as Ame
ricans." " And as many toasts, I suppose, given in honor of
her Most Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria and the
worthies of England, as in favor of Washington and the
heroes of the revolution. Nothing shall prevent me from
attending. Will you be present ?" I inquired of Mr.
Campbell. " I do not think that I shall be able to attend," said
he ; " but if I do not, Peter the Dutchman shall go as
my substitute. He well deserves that privilege, for the
old fellow fought bravely for the honor of the United
States on board the ' Constitution,' during her engage
ment with the ' Guerriere.' Although he has a Dutch
stomach, yet his heart is truly American.'
During the continuation of the foregoing conversation
an important visitor arrived : it was Captain Hayden,
commander of the port of Para, and, for the time being,
second only in rank to the established governor of the
province. He had, at the moment we have introduced
him to the reader, just concluded his morning's prome
nade, and had stopped at Campbell's, as he was wont
to do often, for the purpose of breakfasting with him.
A nobler specimen of a man, as regards symmetry of form
and dignity of aspect, could not easily be found. He was
above six feet in height, with extremely broad shoulders

199

and a wonderful capacious chest, which displayed out to
advantage his richly-worked military waistcoat, the left
side of which was superbly decorated with two golden
stars, pendent from gay ribbons and glittering with the
richest gems. Within a few minutes after his reception,
on invitation of Mr. Campbell, he doffed his cumbrous
military coat, and put on in its stead a light cotton jacket
or blouse, which was furnished him by his kind and ac
commodating host. A slave now announced to us that
breakfast was ready, so we lost no time in taking our
seats at the table. In five minutes we were each suppli
ed with a steaming cup of tea — coffee, it will be borne
in mind, being only served at sunrise and immediately
after dinner.
" Young men," said the Captain; addressing us in the
blandest manner possible, while a smile of ineffable good
ness lighted up his benignant countenance, " it gives me
great pleasure to have met you. Suffice it for me to say,
that as you are the friends of Mr. Campbell, from this
time henceforth you are my friends, and if I can do you
any service whatever, it shall be cheerfully performed.
By the way, I have a rare curiosity for you out at the
Roscenia, which you are at perfect liberty to take away
whenever you please. It is a young boa-constrictor,
about fifteen feet in length, handsomely marked and very
lively. I have kept him confined in a barrel for some
weeks past, but he has two or three times escaped from
his prison, and we have on such occasions had not a little

200 PARA.
difficulty in capturing him again. I should be pleased
to have you walk out with me this morning and pay
your compliments to his snakeship. He would, doubt
less, be glad to see his new masters."
" Many thanks for the boa," replied J. ; " you could
not have made us a more acceptable present. For my
self, I should like very much to go out and see him.
What say you, Jack ?"
" Nothing would please me more," I answered.
" Then, my boys," said the warm-hearted captain, " we
had better set out before the sun gets much higher :
otherwise, unless you are perfect salamanders, you will
be pretty thoroughly baked before we reach the Roscenia.
It will be well for you to carry your guns along, as it is
not improbable that we may meet with game of some
kind on the route."
" Thank you for the hint," exclaimed J. ; " and if you
will excuse us for a few moments, while we retire to our
room, we will accoutre ourselves immediately for the ex
cursion." Returning shortly, we presented quite a hostile ap
pearance, with our long hunting-boots, white pantaloons,
loose blouses, and broad-brimmed Panama hats. On our
eft sides were suspended our fringed game-pouches, while
with one hand we carried our faithful guns, and in the
other our trusty tracados. Thus equipped we started
with the Captain for the Roscenia.
The morning was unusually pleasant, and the temper-

PARA. 201
ature of the atmosphere not uncomfortable. A light
breeze was blowing from the forest, freighted with the
aroma of flowers, while the air itself was so transparent,
that it seemed to offer no barrier whatever to our vision.
The life and vivacity of the mottled crowd with which
the streets were thronged, formed a striking contrast to
the prevailing stillness and native solitude of Marajo.
Fruit-women were marching about with huge trays on
their heads, covered with a tempting variety of tropical
fruits ; parties of negroes were sauntering through the
street, engaged in transporting burdens of different
kinds ; officers and soldiers on guard were strolling
indolently up and down ; while hosts of juveniles of both
sexes, were playing with each other as merrily as so
many unsophisticated doves !
" If I am not too bold," inquired J. of the Captain,
" pardon me for saying that I think you cannot be a
Brazilian by birth. Are you not an Englishman ?"
"I certainly am neither a native Brazilian nor of
Brazilian parentage," replied the Captain good-humor-
edly ; " but for nearly twenty-five years have I been in
the service of this country, and am, therefore, by this
time pretty well acclimated. In reality, I am a son of
Erin, and love my country well ; but circumstances, and
not choice, have controlled my destiny, and forced me
to seek my fortune in this foreign land. In early life I
served as a midshipman in the English navy ; some years
afterwards I married a lady of rank at Rio de Janeiro."
9*

202 PARA.
" And is she living now ?" asked J.
" Oh, yes, she is still alive, thank God !" said the
Captain, " and resides at Rio de Janeiro. I have a small
yet delightful estate just in the outskirts of the town, and
which I consider my home. True, my situation of post-
captain keeps me absent from it for a great portion of
the year, yet it is none the less dear to me ; for where a
man's heart and affections are centred, there, oh, there,
for ever is his home !"
Engaged in conversation we at length arrived at Mr.
Campbell's Roscenia.
Its situation was very convenient as well as retired.
The house, although rather smaller than the one we
occupied at Nazere, was, nevertheless, quite comfortable,
and exceedingly well adapted for a bachelor's hall. It
had a cheerful little veranda, and, like most Brazilian
mansions, was roofed with earthenware tiles. A slave
opened the door, and we entered into the Captain's
principal apartment. It was strewed with books, musical
instruments, and military accoutrements, and was well
supplied with chairs and other articles of furniture, which
had evidently been brought from his vessel. The Cap
tain's steward soon placed before us a tempting collation
of rare fruit, cake, and sparkling wine. Having regaled
ourselves to our satisfaction, Captain Hayden presented
us with some superior cigars, which we straightway
ignited, and then proceeded to take a rambling stroll
through the garden.

PARA. 203
" Where is the boa of which you spoke to us !" I
asked. " I will show him to you presently," said the Captain :
" he is confined in that large barrel under the veranda.
So come with me, and we will take a look at his lord
ship." Approaching the barrel, we perceived that its cover
was supplied with a kind of trap-door, made of netted
wire. Looking through this, as the light shone upon it,
we had an excellent view of the slumbering serpent,
coiled up in prodigious folds, pile upon pile, until he
almost reached the top of the cask. The Captain gave
the barrel a hard kick with his foot, which roused the
drowsy animal from its death-like stupor, when opening
his capacious mouth, and thrusting out his forked tongue,
he hissed so loudly, that the infernal sound might have
been heard by a listening ear at the extremest part of the
garden. Breaking upon the silence of a lonely forest,
how intensely fearful must it be !
" To what length do these boas sometimes attain 2"
inquired J.
" That I cannot exactly say," responded the Captain ;
" stories are often told by travellers of their reaching the
length of forty, fifty, and even sixty feet, but long as I
have lived in Brazil, I have never seen one more than
twenty, and never heard a well authenticated account of
one that was above thirty feet in length. Travellers often
indulge in monstrous stories, sometimes bordering upon

204

Gulliverism or Munchausenism. In reading the narra
tives of unknown adventurers, especially of the young and
inexperienced, I always make the necessary discount. In
this age, truth seems to be depreciating, and he to get the
greatest credit who perpetrates the most ingenious fibs."
" I believe you are not far from the right," said J. ;
" but men sometimes are guilty of most preposterous
exaggerations, when they themselves think they are
adhering strictly to the truth. Men sometimes deceive
themselves as egregiously as they do others. A sea
faring friend of mine, in whom I place sincere confidence,
told me that on one occasion, while he was walking in the
woods of Guiana, he came across the body of an enor
mous snake, who had unintentionally committed suicide by
swallowing a deer, the horns of which had stuck in his
throat, thereby choking him to death. He stated, more
over, that at another time, wilh the assistance of his
crew, he succeeded in killing a snake in the forest, which
he should judge must have been between seventy and
eighty feet in length ! I immediately began to suspect
that his optics were of a deceptive nature, therefore said
I to him, ' Captain, how far do you think it is from the
place where you now stand to yonder tree ?' pointing a
certain one out to him. ' About the length of my
snake,' I should think, said he. We measured the dis
tance, and found it to be, not eighty, but only thirty feet !
The captain was nonplussed, and, as you may suppose,
my risibilities were considerably excited."

205

- In the further part of the garden we observed a kind
of open shed, beneath which were a number of slaves
engaged in making farina. The fruit trees of the Ros
cenia were various, but the most conspicuous were those
laden with oranges, mangoes, and alligator pears. There
were a few cocoa-nut trees, too, and plants and flowers of
a hundred kinds. From the topmost branches of one of
the loftiest trees on the place, hung an extraordinary
species of vine, which appeared to derive its nourishment
from the air alone. At our desire, one of the young
negro-lads climbed up into the tree and cut it off about
midway to the top. The portion we thus secured was
nearly fifty feet in length. In pliability and toughness it
was not at all inferior to rope, as a substitute for which
it is universally used by the natives.
We saw several bright birds which were flying about
among the fruit trees of the Roscenia. Among the
rarest, were a pair of blue and yellow creepers, a couple
of ruby-throated humming-birds, and a single azure-
winged and purple-throated chatterer. Besides these,
we collected a number of butterflies, moths, and beetles,
some of which were of astonishing size, and of remarka
ble beauty.
" The Captain is a wonderfully clever fellow," said J.,
soon after leaving the Roscenia. " Verily, I am pleased
to have made his acquaintance. That boa he presented
us with is a right valuable prize, and will make rather an
unusual companion for us on our return voyage to the

206 PARA.
United States. What a sensation his advent will create
in the pleasant little city of Troy, if he should be so for
tunate as ever to get there ! What an excitement there
will be among the juveniles to see him ! What flutter-
ings among the beautiful damsels whenever his lordship
is mentioned ; what grave speculations among the
philosophers of the Lyceum ! and what solicitations for
his skin by the proprietors of the different museums !
Oh ! most amiable of boas, are you aware of the distinc
tion that is before thee !"
" Upon my word, J., I agree with you, that we have
secured a treasure in that gigantic snake ! He is. not
only enormous, but, in my humble estimation, positively
handsome, and this opinion I will maintain in defiance of
all adversaries. How rich are the tints of his skin ! and
who shall say that those large leopard-like spots with
which he is mottled are not really beautiful ! Then
what a smooth and sharp-pointed head ! what white and
shining teeth, and what a long and arrow-like tongue !
But oh ! that horrible, soul-penetrating hiss, it rings in my
ears at this moment, and if not soon banished from my
mind, will surely haunt me in my dreams ! But why
should it give rise to fear, when we know that fear is but
the result in a great measure of association. The falsely
educated become nervously and unnaturally timid : to
such, the gloaming of eve is fraught with images of
terror ; and shrouded by the dusky twilight, every waving
tree becomes an apparition, and every snow-white sheet —

PARA. 207
a ghost ! But how different is the case with those whose
imaginations have been properly curbed and restrained
in early youth. How brave, how bold, how lion-hearted
are they ! These are the men who dread no evil by day,
or think not of horrors by night ; these are the men who
can look with a just appreciation upon the mysterious
works of their infinite Creator, without that recoil upon
themselves which* the fearful experience ; and again,
these are the men, too, who are seen in the foremost
ranks of battle, animating their followers by their
courageous example, and who, like ' Captain Lawton of
the Spy,' when encompassed by enemies, fall heroically
in the defence of their country, with their sabres wheeling
round their heads, and their last words re-echoing his
heroic, yet proud defiance — ' Come on !' Beauty,
likewise, depends greatly upon association. There is
beauty in everything, although all have not the power of
discerning it. With what ecstasy will a mineralogist
gaze upon an apparently coarse and common stone !
With what ardor will a botanist feast his eyes upon an
unknown plant, however insignificant to the ignorant it
may appear ! and with what delight will a conchologist
chirp over the smallest and darkest shell, if it is one
which he has never seen before ! Do not these men see
beauty where others see it not ? If so, the conclusion is
unavoidable, that if persons were able to appreciate,
everything would be beautiful, and this dreamy world,
as some unfortunate misanthropes term it, would be a

208

paradise indeed — a fitting habitation for the soul, while
imprisoned in this perishable tabernacle of flesh."
The following morning was as serene and lovely as
even the Ameicans themselves could desire. It was the
birth-day of their boasted independence. Its dawn was
ushered by no roar of cannon, ringing of bells, or pealing
of artillery. The sun-light of the tropics came in solemn
splendor, and the whisperings of the fra"grant zephyrs and
the warbling of early birds, were the only sounds which
accompanied it. All was still ; but it was a day sacred
to the goddess of Liberty !
The national flag, which floated from one of the upper
windows of the house where the dinner was to take place,
was the only evidence during the morning that the day
was one of peculiar importance to the American people.
At three o'clock p.m. we were summoned to the
banquet. The dinner, as far as edibles and potables were
concerned, was much better than we could have antici
pated, and several dishes had been prepared for the
occasion which we had never met with before in Brazil.
The room was appropriately bedizened with flags of
many nations. The guests numbered thirty-five, and a
more miscellaneous assortment could not easily have
been selected. The English and Americans were about
equal in number ; then there were Irishmen, Dutchmen,
Frenchmen, Russians, Portuguese, Brazilians, and some
others. The toasts, which were numerous, were as
various in their character as the different banners which

209

decked the apartment. Everything was conducted with
perfect decorum and order, and all appeared to be well
satisfied with their share of the entertainment. Through
out the repast, a fine band of thirty musicians continued
to play national airs in an adjoining room, which added
much to the festivities of the day. At nine o'clock the
company retired for their respective homes.
On the morrow we were to leave for Maguary. This
place, in a direct line, is not more than twelve miles from
the city, although by water the distance is much greater.
We proposed making the trip on foot, as the route
through the forest is much the shortest, and, for strangers,
altogether the most pleasant and interesting. As our
luggage and ammunition had been sent by the canoe in
the morning, there was nothing to hinder us from taking
this course. We therefore adopted it.

210 para:

CHAPTER XX.
Dawn in the Forest. — A rhapsody by J. — A beautiful Land
scape. — Piscatory Breakfast. — Peraricon and Electrical Eels.
— Eel Stories. — Mode of Capturing them in Guiana. — A retired
Bath. — A strange Tableau.
At least an hour before the break of day we sallied
forth from the silent gloom of the city, and plunged at
once into the solitude and darkness of the forest. We
were accompanied by the machinist of the mills, who,
having resided at the Maguary for some years past, was
not only perfectly familiar with the route, but had more
over an extensive knowledge of the province, its nume
rous wild animals, birds, and natural productions. For
us, therefore, on the present occasion, he was both a
trusty guide as well as an interesting companion.
All nature seemed to be now hushed in sleep ;
neither the note of a bird, the buzz of an insect, nor the
cry of an animal disturbed the profound silence as we
walked rapidly onward through a crooked pathway of
the wilderness, arched by the meeting of the treetops. A
stroll among the tombs of some remote and antiquated
church-yard could not have been more solemn and im
pressive than the commencement of this, our lonely

PARA. . 211
journey towards Maguary. Trees of gigantic dimen
sions towered up proudly on either side, hiding the very
stars from our view by the heaviness of their drooping
branches. Our own voices alone disturbed the deep
quiet which pervaded the forest — no rippling of stream
lets broke upon our ears, and even the gentle winds
were still.
But a flood of light came at last, penetrating through
the thick canopy of foliage. It announced the dawn of
another beautiful day. A scene of unparalleled magnifi
cence now opened upon us. The trees on every side
looked as if they were made of.emeralds, while the dew-
drops on every leaf glittered like precious gems. The
animal and vegetable kingdom became simultaneously
reanimated, and the wild woods rang with the glad
voices of ten thousand awakened birds — flocks of parrots
chattered vociferously over our heads, toucans screamed
from the summits of the loftiest trees, while numbers of
red-crowned and white-bearded manakins flew across
our path, and sprightly humming birds gleamed in sud
den flights from flower to flower. Above all, however,
sounded the clear metallic notes of the bell-bird, ringing
forth in soft melodious tones, the cheerful " break of
day." " What an extraordinary contrast !" exclaimed J.,
with rapture. "Half an hour ago the silence and
gloom were as perfect as that of the dungeons of the
Inquisition ; now we are in the midst of a Paradise !

212

and all our senses in the full enjoyment of Tropical
woods, the music of southern birds, and the delicious
fragrance of breathing flowers !"
" Oh the pleasures of liberty and health !" shouted-
he ; " who can adequately appreciate these invaluable
blessings, save he who has been for a time deprived of
them ! What a thrill of joy must pervade the bosom of
the slave when he feels for the first time that he is free,
when he hears the magic word pronounced which assures
him that his days of servitude are over; or to the lone
wretch who has been pining away for years in the dreary
solitude of a convict's cell, how gladdening to his heart
must be the voice of liberty ! But to the hapless victim
of disease, deprived of both liberty and health, with hope
like a dark column turned against him, and the certainty
of death staring him in the face, with what remorse must
he reflect upon his past career when the conviction is
forced upon him that the yawning grave into which he
is about to plunge, is the summary punishment of his
own false indulgences, and of his own reckless violation
of nature's laws. To maintain health, it is only neces
sary that we should live in accordance with the immuta
ble laws which the Creator of the universe has estab
lished." Pursuing our journey at a rapid pace for about three
hours, we began to hear the distant rumbling of the
mills. The road was here considerably wider, and much
of the underbrush of the forest had been cleared away.

PARA. 213
Besides, we were no longer sheltered by the overhanging
branches of trees, but were exposed to the full glare of the
unclouded sun. Emerging at length from the cool shade
of the woods, we stood upon a sandy mound, and feasted
our eyes upon the charming landscape which lay spread
out before us. The scene, although not very extensive, was
one of exquisite and varied beauty. Away, off to our
right, we saw the waters of a silver-like lake, gleaming
through the interstices of the forest foliage, and shining
like a pure diamond set around with emerald stones.
From it ran a small brook, which meandered through
the lovely plain, and emptied itself into a larger stream
which flowed under the very windows of the mills ; this
again, after a few rods, lost itself in the darkness of the
contiguous wilderness into which it gushed with a mur
muring sound, as it sported onwards in a winding course
to pay its tribute to the majestic Amazon.
The mill was a prodigious building, and constructed
almost entirely of stone. Its machinery was controlled
by the power of steam, and from a small pipe at the top
of the building, a cloud of vapor was continually belching
forth ! Near to this antique looking edifice was a group
of thatched cottages, which were tenanted by the differ
ent natives and slaves employed on the estate. These
lay along the borders of the forest, and added not a little
to the picturesqueness of the scene.
" Well, now we are at our journey's end," said Mr.
W., our intelligent escort, " we must try and get some

214 PARA.
breakfast. I suppose exercise and abstinence have nearly
the same effect on all ; if so, you must feel after your
toilsome walk of twelve miles in length, and four hours
in duration, as if you would like to prey upon something ;
as for myself, I am just now as rapacious as a condor, or
as hungry as a nun after three days' fasting and prayer."
Arriving at the mill, we ascended a flight of steps
which carried us up to a spacious veranda, running the
entire length of the building. At the extreme end of
this covered gallery was a large room on the right, which
Mr. W. informed us was set apart for our express accom
modation. It was quite comfortable, and from its win
dows we had a fine view of the forest, and of the plea
sant patch of meadow land which intervened, variegated
as it was with flowering bushes and tall palm trees,
standing like watchful sentries in the shadow of the
wilderness ! Breakfast was soon prepared for us under
the veranda. It was rather of a piscatory character,
consisting chiefly of " peraricon" and " electrical eels," the
former broiled, the latter fried.
" I do not know what the natives of Brazil would do
for food were it not for the abundance and cheapness of
' peraricon,' " said Mr. W. " It is a fish which in appear
ance bears a considerable resemblance to the American
codfish, and is common in most of the large rivers and
streams of the country. It is dried in the sun by the
natives, and with a great many it constitutes a principal
article of food 1 no black or Indian is so poor but that he

PARA. 215
can readily procure a sufficiency of this fish and farina for
the support of himself and family. But, by the way,
what do you think of the eels ?"
" They are not at all unpalatable," replied J., " but
really I think them rather dangerous for starving persons
to feed upon, they are so confoundedly bony. I have
choked myself half a dozen times already, and the lower
part of my throat methinks must be wretchedly lace
rated ; however, I would much rather meddle with them
in their present condition than when alive. How
decidedly inconvenient it would be, to say the least, to
receive a severe shock from one while indulging in a deli
cious bath, with a company of olive-cheeked mermaids ;
under such circumstances I should hardly know whether
to run or swim, or throw myself into the arms of the
long-haired nymphs for protection ! Are these singular
fish abundant in this vicinity ? If so, I beheve I shall
abjure bathing for some time to come."
" They cannot be said to be numerous here," said Mr.
W., " although scarcely a week passes by without one or
more of'them being caught. You need not give yourself
any uneasiness about bathing, for it is very seldom that
persons are struck by them while in the water, although
instances of this kind sometimes occur. But I will take
you to a place where you can bathe with perfect security,
and where you will be delightfully sheltered from the
parching rays of the sun."
Speaking on the subject of electrical eels, it may not be

216

out of place to remark, that a gentleman in the city had
an enormous one, which was upwards of ten feet in
length. So great was its power, that on a certain occa
sion it is said to have prostrated a full-grown cow which
drank accidentally from the vessel in which it was con
fined. We ourselves witnessed an extraordinary combat
one day. A friend, at whose house we were visiting,
had a small eel of the electric kind, which he kept in a
tub of water placed in the yard ; a thirsty duck, .in
rambling about in search of water, chanced to see this
vessel, upon the side of which he immediately perched
himself, and began very inconsiderately to imbibe a por
tion of its contents. In a moment he received a shock
which made all his feathers stand on end, magnifying
him to twice his ordinary size. But the duck was more
valorous than one would have supposed, for he returned
with such violence to the attack, that he would soon
have dispatched his- slippery enemy, had not a servant
interposed and prevented so tragic a termination of the
battle ! A couple of incidents as amusing as the fore
going, took place on board of our vessel while on our
return voyage to the United States. We will give them
to the reader by way of episode. Among our living
curiosities we had two young electrical eels, which we
kept in a large tub on deck. Wishing one day to
change the water, we upset the tub, leaving the animals
for a few minutes on the dry boards. Having replenished
the vessel with fresh water, we requested one of the

PARA, 217
sailors to put them in. Proceeding to do so, he received
a strange thrill, which caused him to let the fish fall
from his hand in a moment. He attempted it again, but
with no better success than before; Infinite was the con
sternation of the other sailors, who all tried in turn to
put the diabolical fish into the tub ; and truly laughable
their looks of wonderment occasioned by the mysterious
sensations which they had severally experienced. No one,
however, was more amazed than the captain's mate.
Being himself wholly unacquainted with the properties
of the fish, he was unable to imagine any other cause
the sailors could have for dropping them, than the diffi
culty of holding such slimy and slippery things in one's
hand. Fortified with this opinion, he walked up boldly
to the largest one, which he seized with a powerful
grasp, in order to prevent the possibility of escape on
the part of the animal ; but he was soon forced to let go
his hold, and to yell out as lustily as if some one had
touched him with a heated bar of iron. After much
laughter the captain finally procured a shovel, and we
returned them to their native element without any further
difficulty. On another occasion we observed one of our monkeys
in the act of drinking from the tub, but having unfortu
nately put his head down a little too far, his nose came
in contact with the back of »one of the fish, whereupon
he was rewarded for his temerity by a severe shock,
which caused him at the time to beat a precipitate
10

218 PARA.
retreat. But having reflected for a few moments on the
course most proper for him to pursue, he seemed at last
to have decided upon revenge. Returning to the scene
of action, with an expression of violent wrath depicted
upon his interesting countenance, he once more mounted
the side of the tub, and brought the eel, who had sub
jected him to such deep mortification, a severe thwack
upon the head with his paw. He instantly received
another shock, but being no philosopher, he struck tbe
animal again and again, each time receiving an addi
tional charge of the electric fluid, until at last, being
pretty well used up, he wisely abandoned the siege,
which, upon the whole, he appeared to regard as a very
" shocking affair," and retired, garrulously giving vent to
his intense disgust.
The manner of capturing these fish in Guiana is thus
related by Baron Humboldt : — A pool having been dis
covered which abounds with them, a number of wild
horses and mules are surrounded and forced into it.
" The extraordinary noise caused by the horses' hoofs
makes the fish issue from the sand, and incites them to
combat. These yellowish and livid eels, resembling
large aquatic serpents, swim on the surface of the water,
and crowd under the bellies of the horses and mules.
A contest between animals of such different organiza
tions furnishes a very striking spectacle. The Indians,
provided with harpoons and long slender reeds, sur
round the pool closely, and some climb upon the trees,

PARA. 219
the branches of which extend horizontally over the sur
face of the water. By their wild cries and length of
their reeds, they prevent the horses from running away,
and reaching the bank of the pool. The eels, stunned
by the noise, defend themselves by repeated discharges
of their electric batteries. During a long time they
seem to prove victorious. Several horses sink beneath
the violence of their invisible strokes, which they receive
on alljides, in organs the most essential to life ; and,
stunned by the force and frequency of the blows, they
disappear under water. Others, panting, with mane
erect and haggard eyes, expressing anguish, rouse them
selves, and endeavor to flee from the storm by which
they are overtaken. They are driven back by the
Indians into the middle of the water ; but a small num
ber succeed in eluding the active vigilance of the fisher
men. These regain the shore, stumbling at every step,
and stretch themselves on the sand, exhausted by
fatigue, and" their limbs benumbed by the electric strokes
of the l gymnoti.' "
Speaking of a scene which the Baron himself wit
nessed, he thus remarks : — " In less than five minutes
two horses were drowned. The eel being five feet long,
and pressing himself against the belly of the horse,
makes a discharge along the whole length of its electric
organ. It attacks at once the heart, the intestines, and
the plexus of abdominal nerves. We had little doubt
the fishing would terminate by killing successively all

220

the animals engaged, but, by degrees, the impetuosity of
this unequal contest diminished, and the wearied
gymnoti dispersed. They require a long rest and abun
dant nourishment to repair what they have lost of gal
vanic force, and, in a few minutes, we had five large
eels, the greater part of which were only slightly
wounded." Nature could not have endowed an animal with a
more effectual weapon of defence than the g*lvanic
apparatus with which she has supplied these marvellous
fish. Even the bloodthirsty and heavy mailed alligator
quails before it, and acknowledges the gymnotis to be
the piscatory sovereign of the stream. But now let us
return to finish the meal which gave rise to this pro
tracted digression on eels.
As soon as we had regaled ourselves sufficiently,
smoked our pipes, and lounged for an hour or so in our
hammocks, we sallied out again into the open air, for
the laudable purpose of taking a cooling ablution in the
clear waters of the streamlet.
The idea of being struck dumb and senseless by elec
trical eels was uppermost in our minds, and very dread
ful it was to be sure, but we had determined upon hav
ing a swim, especially as our new friend had promised
to take us to a spot where we should be secure from any
molestation or inconvenience whatever.
Our guide led the way, ^following along by the side of
the brooklet, in the direction of the sylvan lake, which

PARA. 221
we now saw sparkling at a distance amid the verdure.
On our left was an extensive clearing, covered with low
bushes, and solitary trees looming up here and there.
Before, behind, and around us, the dark woods rose up
like a gloomy wall, reminding us that we were isolated
and hid from the world, in the heart of a Brazilian forest.
Within a few rods of the lake, a slight dam was made
on the bank of the stream, over which at high tide the
water flowed with a gurgling sound, as soft and cheerful
as the laughter of a youthful maid. The water was re
ceived in its descent by a kind of rocky cauldron, with a
smooth, hard bottom of sand. The width of this natural
basin was about eight or ten feet, while its depth was
between four and five. It was completely overhung by
an umbrageous canopy of living green, so dense that the
fierce rays of the sun were entirely excluded, although
the brilliancy of its light was admitted in front. This
was the bathing place, of which our new acquaintance
had informed us, and certainly neither Venus nor any
other goddess could have selected a sweeter spot on earth,
for this delightful purpose !
" What a capital place for a solitary mermaid," said
J., " the very spot for such a hermitage ! But here goes
for a plunge." In a moment he was immersed in the
crystal water of this foaming pool, and soon after was
joined by his two comrades ; and now we were all in the
basin together, dancing about under the influence of the
pleasant excitement, and performing a variety of aquatic

222

feats. Coming out at the expiration of half an hour, we
experienced the most delicious of all human sensations,
such as they only can appreciate, who have bathed in the
exhilarating waters of a mineral spring, and then exposed
themselves unclad to the vivifying influences of the warm
sunshine. On our return to the mills, we stopped for a moment
at one of the habitations of the natives. Here we saw a
strange tableau. In one corner of the hut were a couple
of negro women, seated on the ground engaged in basket-
making ; while a boy was cutting long strips from a
species of cane used for this purpose. Various kinds of
birds and skins of animals were hung around the cabin,
together with ragged clothing, and bunches of fruit. One
spectacle, however, which served to complete the picture,
would doubtless have occasioned an ejaculation of horror,
had it been witnessed by the unaccustomed eyes of our
indulgent reader. It was that of an aged native, with
whitened locks streaming down on his shoulders, delibe
rately tearing to pieces, for the convenience of mastication,
the body of a recently-roasted Guariba, or howling
monkey. J. inquired of him respecting the flavor of the
animal, which the old cannibal declared to be equal to
that of beef or any other meat. " Mon Dieu /" ex
claimed my companion, " from what enjoyments do our
prejudices preclude us !"

para. 223

CHAPTER XXI.
Excursion down the Stream. — " Coeoanut Grove." — A Sloth. —
The great and little Ant-Eater. — A Bath and Siesta.
On the following day we procured a small montaria,
and made an excursion down the streamlet. The
brook-scenery was rich and luxuriant, and was for a dis
tance completely embowered by overhanging shrubbery.
The stream was filled with small rocks and sand-bars,
which were distinctly revealed by the receding tide.
Consequently we were obliged to be continually on the
alert, in order to avoid being snagged or capsized !
The banks in some parts were quite high, and clothed
with a gigantic vegetation, while occasionally their beau
tiful monotony was pleasingly relieved by the glistening
of a silvery cascade or miniature waterfall !
Paddling round a certain point, a scene of exquisite
beauty burst instantaneously upon our view ! For the
distance of several hundred yards the stream was ex
ceedingly wide, and as straight as an arrow. The left
bank was covered by a thicket of low clustering bushes,
while the land on the opposite side was unusually high,
and overtopped by a handsome grove of cocoanuts and
ornamental palms.

224

Among the trees of the grove we discovered two or
three Indian cottages and a number of natives swinging
in their hammocks, which were suspended from the
branches. There whs something so fascinating about
this picturesque spot, that we resolved to halt and
recruit ourselves for a few moments. Fastening our
boat firmly to an orange tree on the bank, we took our
guns in our hands and ascended the rude steps which led
to one of the habitations of the natives. Here we found
a number of Indians, who, although a little surprised at
our sudden visit and strange appearance, nevertheless
treated us in the most hospitable manner. They had
just returned from a hunt in the forest, and had brought
with them a peculiar species of sloth, which seemed to
have been lately shot. We had seen animals of this
kind before, but the enormous size of the one in ques
tion did not fail to attract our notice. The natives were
about preparing it for eating, and assured us that its
flesh was excellent.
This animal is inconceivably slow in its motion,
inasmuch as it will often consume an entire day in
climbing up a tree, or in crawling fifty paces on the
ground. Its size, when full grown, is nearly equal to
that of a fox, and its body is covered with long, uneven
hair, of a dusky white, spotted with black. Its claws
are large and powerful, so much so that it is frequently
found sleeping and hanging from the limb of a tree,
around which its legs are tightly clasped. The sloth

PARA. 225
lives entirely on fruit and leaves, and never moves
except when impelled by hunger or thirst. While in
motion it utters a low and plaintive sound, and is so
very repulsive and pitiable in its general aspect, that it
is seldom, if ever, attacked or molested by beasts of
prey. Leaving " coeoanut grove," and pursuing our solitary
way, while not a ripple agitated the surface of the
stream, we finally entered an inviting cove, which opened
to our right. Here we perceived a very respectable
mansion, situated on an elevated and shady mound,
which we soon discovered to be the residence of an old
and highly esteemed Taponian, bearing the name of
Senhor Ramundo.
Walking up the bank, we saluted the proprietor, and
requested permission to examine the beauties and curio
sities of the place, which was readily granted us. The
grounds connected with the estate were very extensive,
and well supplied with fruit trees and curious plants of
many kinds. Among the former we observed an enor
mous cactus tree, at least twenty feet in height, embel
lished with large and splendid flowers ; rising on a single
shaft for a few feet above the ground, it then separated
into many prodigious shoots, each of which was at least
eight inches in diameter, forming a spectacle which was
wonderful as well as beautiful.
Besides an abundance of banana plants, we saw a
number of pine-apple shrubs, thriving in the greatest
10*

226 PARA.
luxuriance. Perceiving that we were pleased with the
appearance of this delicious fruit, our hospitable friend
picked off a fine one and served it up at the house for
our exclusive benefit. In this generous climate the pine
apple sometimes grows to an enormous size, and is of a
much superior flavor to those usually brought to our
country from the West Indies. They require considera
ble cultivation and a fertile soil, but in Brazil are not
unfrequently found growing in the open forest !
Having made a circuit of the garden, we returned to
the house, where we regaled ourselves on the fruit we had
brought with us. The house was quite commodious and
in most excellent order, for which old Ramundo was
indebted to the assiduous care of his ten beautiful
daughters. These filial maidens constituted a bouquet of
flowers, of which Flora herself might well have been
proud ! They were exceedingly pretty, with long dark
hair and jet-black eyes.
The tide having changed, we took advantage of it to
return to "the mills." Passing a certain thicket we
heard a peculiar noise in the bushes, and soon after saw
some kind of animal emerge from the bushes and run
with great velocity along the bank. We kept our eyes
intently fixed upon him until he disappeared from view,
and then guided our little boat to the exact spot where
we had last seen him. My companion jumped quickly
ashore and removing the foliage aside with his gun, he
suddenly started up the animal, who rushed so unexpect-

PARA. 227
edly almost from under his very feet, that he did not
have time to raise his gun to his shoulder and fire. We
caught a glimpse of the creature, however, which we
discovered to be° a species of wild hog.
Not long after leaving this place, we had the good
fortune to shoot a fine specimen of the ant-eater. This
is certainly the most remarkable of all South American
quadrupeds. There are two species of this genus found
in the forests of Brazil, which are called, in distinction,
the great and little ant-eater. The former is a very large
animal, sometimes measuring seven feet in length, from
the tip of its nose to the extremity of its tail. Its ap
pearance to every one but a naturalist is truly repulsive
and disagreeable. Its head is very small and its snout
exceedingly long, while its mouth is extremely diminu
tive and entirely destitute of teeth. Tbe general color of
the animal is grey, with a broad stripe of black running
down on each side of its body. The hair with which it
is covered is quite harsh, and that of the tail very long
and bushy. Although not provided by nature with
teeth, yet the powerful claws of the ant-eater render it a
very formidable adversary, since with them it has been
known to destroy animals of much greater, apparent
strength than itself. It walks very slowly in the woods,
but is said to be a rapid swimmer, and in the water it
moves quickly along, with its prodigious tail flung
directly over its back !
The little ant-eater, on the contrary, is a very diminu-

228

tive and extremely graceful little animal, its body being
seldom more than seven inches long, while its tail is
bushy, like that of a squirrel, and generally longer
than its body. The tip of its tail is usually bare for
about the space of two or three inches, and is prehensile.
This little creature sports among the branches of the
trees, and is very agile and nimble in his motions. The
fur with which he is covered is of a pure yellow, and is
exquisitely soft and glossy. Indeed, the general appear
ance of this curious little fellow is exceedingly prepossess
ing and pleasing.
The tongue of the ant-eater is very long, and is covered
with a peculiar glutinous substance, of which the ants
are particularly fond. They assemble on it in myriads,
and while enjoying the sweetness of the feast, the tongue
of the animal is suddenly drawn within its mouth, and
the unfortunate insects immediately precipitated into the
dark and mysterious abyss below !
Soon after killing the ant-eater we arrived safely at the
mills. The afternoon was uncomfortably warm. As
soon, therefore, as we had disencumbered ourselves of
our sporting accoutrements, we repaired again to the
" Bath of the Muses," and indulged in a cool and re
freshing ablution. Returning from the bath, we com
mitted ourselves to our hammocks, which were swinging
in the breeze under the veranda. Soft languors stole
insensibly over us, and visions of dreamy happiness arose
in our minds ! No one can realize the pleasures of a

PARA. 229
hammock "siesta," who has not wandered amid the
enchanting scenes of the Torrid Zone ! — Here " every
thing invites to that indolent repose, the bliss of southern
climes ; and while the half-shut eye looks out from
shaded balconies upon the glittering landscape, the ear is
lulled by the rustling of groves, and the murmur of run
ning streams."

230

CHAPTER XXII.
Trip to L'Aranjeira. — A Sunset Scene. — Evening Festival in an
Orange Grove. — A provoking Incident.
Hours and days rolled rapidly on, and still we delighted
to hear the rumbling ofthe old mills, and to ramble amid
the umbrageous solitudes of the neighboring forest.
Each moment almost, as it imperceptibly glided away,
brought with it some fresh sources of novelty and enter
tainment. Late one afternoon we left Maguary in our
canoe, intending to pass the night at the sequestered
hamlet of L'Aranjeira, which is situated a few miles from
the mills on one of the sloping banks of the streamlet.
We were gliding slowly past the grove of cocoa palms,
when the flush of sunset overspread the western sky,
and shed a luminous glow upon the surface of the
stream. The leaves of the brookside trees were tinged
with golden hues, and the dark masses of emerald
foliage seemed to be illumed as with a smile ! It was a
gorgeous scene, and one which penetrated deep into our
souls. The air was loaded with delicious aromas — the
noisy chattering of the birds was over, and the soft
and melancholy notes of trogons and nightingales, alone

PARA. 231
stole upon our ears. Insects chirped in the tangled
thickets, and beetles occasionally flew with a strange
humming sound through the quiet atmosphere — the
stars beamed forth from the clear firmament, and our
eyes looked with mute adoration upon millions of worlds,
studding the etherial ocean of immensity !
" Oh," said J., " who can gaze upon the illimitable
heavens above him,#and contemplate the inconceivable
vastness of the universe, without feeling within him the
consciousness of immortality ? Who is there so grovelling
and debased, that he can gaze upon the grandeur of the
stellar worlds, wheeling in their established orbits at
unfathomable distances over his head, without experienc
ing emotions of grandeur and sublimity ? Oh, God !
that a human being in thy divine form, could ever have
gazed upon the overwhelming proofs of Deity which I
now behold, and continued a sceptic still. Is it not
a mystery that so foul a blot should be permitted to rest
upon the footstool of Jehovah ? — that a fiend in human
shape should be allowed to live, and cast his shadow,
like that of a dark pillar, upon the beauty and happiness
of the world 2 Why is he not riven by a thunderbolt, or
blighted by the lightning ?"
" It is not often, J., that you are in so serious a mood !
Is it not a grand idea ? — and often have I felt it in look
ing upon the star-studded firmament ; that all the innu
merable worlds upon which we gaze are inhabited — that
they are the different homes of the immortal spirit,

232 PARA.
which wings its flight from planet to planet, by the mys
terious power of volition alone, and goes on through
unending ages, for ever approaching nearer and nearer
to the true source of all things — the pure fountain of the
Great Eternal mind !"
We had now turned the last headland, and were
in full view of L'Aranjeira. Its appearance, thus seen by
the sweet influence of the starlight, was deeply interest
ing — the bank, which here made a sudden turn, so as to
present the hamlet directly in our front, was unusually
high. Upon its summit stood the cottages of the natives,
each one surrounded by a number of flourishing orange
trees. The plot of cleared ground which had been thus
appropriated by the Indian habitations, sloped gradually
back towards the dark forest, which by the light of the stars
seemed to sweep round it in a perfect semicircle. The
stream had been swollen to the width of a small river,
and the light pulsations of its waters upon the sandy
beach, came with a musical dashing to our ears. Upon
its rippling surface the moonbeams were dancing a mi
nuet, while thousands of reflected stars gleamed as it were
in an enchanted region far down below us !
To our astonishment the entire grove appeared to be
specially illuminated, as if for the purpose of celebrating
some distinguished festal day.
Drawing our boat up on the shore, we ascended the
steps which led to the cottages. The " Commandante,"
it seems, was expecting us, and had therefore remained

PARA. 233
alone at his house, awaiting our arrival. The first
queries we put to him, as soon as our mutual greetings
were concluded, were concerning the grand display of
lights, and natives, and music, which we beheld in the
grove. He informed us that it was festal night, and
that the natives were having a rustic ball in honor
thereof ; he moreover invited us to take part in the cere
monies, politely offering himself as our escort, and adding
also, by way of inducement, that he would take particu
lar care to initiate us into the good graces of all the
handsome Dryads of the grove. This was too strong a
temptation for our feeble powers of denial, therefore we
at once consented to Senhor Prdut's kind proposal.
It may not be improper to say a word respecting the
appearance, character, and position of the old " com
mandant." His age could not have been less than sixty
years, for the front part of his head was entirely bald,
while the curling locks which hung down over his
shoulders were of silvery whiteness ; his eye was sharp
and penetrating — his features small — his lips com
pressed, and his complexion light — all betokening a
cunning disposition and a suspicious turn of mind. In
conversation he was exceedingly loquacious ! He had
been stationed at L'Aranjeira by the Para government as
a kind of spy, to prevent the smuggling of foreign goods
into the city by means of this stream. His whole
armament consisted of half a dozen rusty guns, which,

234 PARA.
judging from their looks, would be more apt to injure
those who used them than those at whom they were
discharged. " I think it would be impossible for the most imagina
tive poet to conceive a more romantic spectacle on earth
than ,hat which we now behold !" said J., as soon as we
had passed the borders of the illuminated grove. The
trees were nearly of the same height, clothed with their
rich foliage of vivid green, and bending to the ground
with their heavy clusters of yellow fruit. Each tree was
furnished with lighted flambeaux, while many 'of the
natives carried flaming torches in their hands. Gloomily
the luxuriant forest stood around like the darksome pall
— brightly shone the tranquil surface of the broad and
flowing stream before us — and here, in the midst of a
group of strange men of swarthy aspect, Indian maids
of exquisite beauty, and tall shadows of grotesque forms
— we stood in this lovely solitude of the wilderness,
drinking in strange sensations of delight, and feeling in
our souls, that were it not for the baneful influence of
sin, this world would be a paradise of joy !
" What a very pretty damsel is she that stands so
pensively by yonder banana plant," said J. " See how
quiet she is ; her head droops as if some thought
was pressing upon her virgin mind ! And look how she
glances her eyes occasionally at old Prout, as if she
took some peculiar interest in his movements. I should

PARA. 235
not be surprised if she turns out to be his daughter ; if
so, I shall have a story to tell by and by of my pleasant
flirtation with the bewitching belle of L'Aranjeira"
" She may be ' old Prout's ' daughter for all we know
to the contrary," I replied ; " but I do not think she is.
I am aware that the ' Commandant ' has daughters, but
they are, I think, all married ; at all events, I do not
believe he has a daughter as young as this maid by at
least ten years. She does not appear to be above fifteen,
yet how perfectly is she developed — how symmetrical
is the graceful curve of her neck, and what a profusion
of raven tresses hang elf-like from her head. It is not,
as you modestly imagine, at old Prout that she glances,
but you may rest assured that it is at no other than
yourself. She has seen you, and is consequently smitten,
and this is doubtless the secret of her strange behavior.
It strikes me as something very strange that the prettiest
girl by far in the grove should be so neglected by the
beaux. There is some mystery about it, which, I must
confess, I cannot understand. Go you up to her
straightway, and be her entertainer. If any dependence
can be placed on her looks and actions, such a move
ment on your part, methinks, will be highly satisfactory
to the damsel."
" Well !" replied J., " I believe I will for once take
your advice ; but remember you must be responsible for
the consequences."
My companion then left me, and walked up boldly to

236 PAR A .
the pretty maiden, who had scarcely changed her posi
tion since first we discovered her. Shortly after I
beheld him dancing with her on the green, and appa
rently as happy as any fond lover who had secured his
prize ! She still, however, continued her glances at
" Old Prout," whose countenance, to my infinite amaze
ment, was now clouded as if with some inward dissatis
faction, misanthropy, or hypochondriacal forebodings ; his
physiognomy was a complicated puzzle, and I could not
possibly opine the occasion of his evident uneasi
ness !
It was past one o'clock in the morning when the festi
vities were brought to a close. Imagine our surprise,
dear reader, when, on starting for the house of the
" Commandant," we were joined by the innocent and
bright-faced girl to whom my companion had during
the evening been so particularly attentive ! What
could it mean ? Was she, then, truly the daughter of
our venerable host ? Oh ! happy thought ! Oh ! envia
ble young men !
" Is this your youngest daughter !" whispered J.,
in the politest manner imaginable to the aged
Senhor. " She is remarkably handsome ; in fact, we
have few prettier girls than she in America ! I consider
her very fortunate in having so amiable and affectionate
a father /"
" Father !" echoed he, in tones none of the softest —
" I am her husband ; she is my wife ! But I freely

PARA. 237
forgive you for your mistake, as I have daughters, to tell
the truth, almost old enough to be her mother !"
J. became now speechless, listless, and tongue-tied,
and continued so for some time after this fatal explana
tion. As for myself, I felt half disposed— and even
hinted the propriety of the measure to my disappointed
comrade — of seizing the old Turk by the neck and
pitching him headforemost over the bank into the placid
waters of the stream !
When we reached the house, Senhor " Prout" mani
fested an extraordinary degree of prudence in swinging
our hammocks under the veranda, at the same time
very coolly giving us a lecture on the advantages of
sleeping in the open air ! His youthful wife kissed her
hand to us as she bade us good night, and disappeared
from our view with a roguish smile upon her pouting lips.
" Old Prout" supplied us with pipes, and conversed with
us very sociably for upwards of an hour. He then wished
us a pleasant sleep, and vanished within the interior of
his dwelling.
In a few moments we were no longer conscious of the
realities of existence — -for we slept ! — and our slumbers
were as calm and sweet as those of childhood.

238 PARA.

CHAPTER XXIII.
A Humming Bird Crusade in the Inga Grove. — Different
methods of securing these Birds. — Certain facts regarding
them. — A Ramble in the Woods.^ — Canoe Making. — An
Opossum. — J. and myself for once of different minds.
At six o'clock we were awakened by the " Command
ant," who said that we must rise immediately (although
we had not slept more than three hours) if we had any
desire to shoot any humming birds that morning.
Springing from our hammocks, we lost not a moment in
equipping ourselves for this enterprise. Leaving the
house in company with " Old Prout," we were soon in
the midst of the grove, breathing an atmosphere preg
nant with the fragrance of the Inga blossoms. The
trees were literally alive with the tiny birds, whose
rapid flight through the sunlit air could only be likened
to the glistening of precious gems or burnished metals.
Sometimes we would see one perched upon a dry twig,
and at other times poised in the air over our heads, and
apparently motionless, while all the time his little wings
were vibrating with the greatest velocity.
Several modes are adopted for killing these curious •
birdlets. The natives of Brazil shoot them with small

para. 239
arrows, thrown from a species of blow-pipe by the power
of their breath only. Some naturalists, for fear of injur
ing their extremely delicate plumage, throw water upon
them by means of syringes, which clogs their wings,
and thus incapacitates them for flight.
In the wonderful choir of animated nature birds seem
to rank next above insects, and some of the latter which
are furnished with wings, bear considerable resemblance
to the minimum of the former. Any one, who gives
due attention to the consideration of the myriads of ani
mals and life-teeming atoms which surround us — which
crowd the purest water we drink and the lightest air we
breathe, cannot fail to observe a gradual chain of mental
development, from the first buddings of mysterious in
stinct up to the greatest capacity and genius of man. A
chain equivalent to this exists also in the material world,
in the creation of animated beings. The humming bird
may appropriately be considered as the connecting link
between the bird and insect race. How pleasing to the
eye of a poet is the analogy between this smallest of birds
and the butterfly ! In size the latter is often superior, and
in coloring as rich and striking. They both frequent
flowery gardens, and are sometimes seen at the same
time sipping honey from the bosom of some ripe and
blushing rose !
The beauty ofthe humming bird has been universally
extolled, and well does it deserve all the praise that has
been bountifully lavished upon it. On account of the

240 PARA.
brilliant lustre of its plumage, it has been expressively
designated by the titles of emerald, ruby, amethystine,
and topaz, according to the several species. The natives
of some of the islands where they abound, metaphorically
style them " winged-flowers," while in Brazil the Portu
guese name which is bestowed upon them, signifies,
" flower-kissers !"
Delicate as these little creatures are, they are not con
fined entirely to the Tropics, but are occasionally seen in
high latitudes, and have been observed flitting about even
in the midst of a snow storm, apparently at their ease.
Their home, however, is in the warmer parts of America,
where they sport in wanton mazes during the live-long
day, fulfilling the particular end for which the wisdom of
nature has designed them.
Innocent and harmless as the humming birds appear,
yet they are frequently agitated by the fiercest passions.
They not only assail birds of a larger size, but if dis
turbed during the period of incubation, will even venture
to attack man himself, darting at his eyes with such
violence as to threaten their extinction. When the
males battle with each other, which is often the case, the
combat is seldom relinquished until one ofthe belligerents
is completely discomfited, or killed. Wilson says he has
seen the small American humming bird attack even the
king-bird, which is so distinguished for its valor, and in its
turn assaulted by a humble bee, which after a few moments
of hard fighting, he succeeded in putting to flight.

PARA. 241
It has been estimated that the whole number of
species comprised under the genus Trochilus, cannot be
much less than two hundred. The two most remarkable
of the genus which we ourselves procured in Brazil, were
commonly called the " magnificent " and the " whiskered "
humming birds. The former was of an unusually large
size, being nearly seven inches in length, including its two
longest tail feathers, which were upwards of four inches
in length. These were finely plumed, and very singularly
crossed each other near their tips. The breast of this
bird was of a splendid topazine, while the lower parts of
its body were of a rich and glowing ruby. Its back was
of a rufous brown, with metallic reflections.
The " whiskered hummer " was truly a comical look
ing bird — a winged harlequin among his race ! This
singular species is one of the most diminutive of the
genus, and is remarkable for having six white feathers on
each side of its head, which it has the power of erecting
or depressing at pleasure. These feathers seem designed
as a kind of parachute, to enable the bird to put an
instantaneous and effectual check upon the extraordinary
rapidity of its flight, when in the pursuit of its insect
prey! The birds of this genus differ very materially in their
habits. Some are extremely solitary, wandering alone
through the unfrequented recesses of the forest, and
seldom venturing into open places, or near the abodes of
men. Others, on the contrary, Uve in the vicinity of
11

242 para.
populous towns, and visit without apprehension the most
public gardens, while some haunt the embowered streams,
and feed upon the different aquatic insects which skim
their glassy surfaces.
Having killed at least thirty-five hummers, we return
ed to the house. Senhora Prout received us under the
veranda with a smile — made a few inquiries of us con
cerning the result of our morning's crusade— and then
put before us a delicious repast of mingow and coffee.
Our pipes being smoked out, we took a short ramble
in the woods. The pathway was narrow, and ran along
by the side of a bubbling brook, at last .terminating in an
open area or clearing, where we perceived a couple of
Indians engaged in the manufacture of a montaria or
canoe. They had hollowed out a large log by means of
fire, and were now scraping away the crisped and black
ened wood with their rude instruments. Halting here for
a moment, the " commandante " explained to our entire
satisfaction the whole " modus operandi " of canoe
making, from the " Alpha " to the " Omega " of the
process. Resuming our walk, we shortly met with a native who
had a species of opossum in one of his hands, which he
said he had just shot in the forest. There are many
varieties of opossums, peculiar to the woods of Brazil.
They are very curious animals both in their appearance
and habits. A quaint writer has remarked concerning
them, that as a general rule they have " the snout of a

PARA. 243
pike, the ears of a bat, and the tail of a snake." Their
hair is coarse, and bears some resemblance to whalebone,
when it is shaved into fine and riband-like curls. Their
tails are prehensile, and of use to the animal in suspend
ing itself from the branches of trees, while their legs are
comparatively short and covered with long hair. While
amid the foliage of trees they are. both sportive and nim
ble, and are often seen playfully chasing each other from
limb to limb, with all the quickness and agility of squir
rels. But, on the ground, their motions are remarkably
slow and laborious. In their habits they are nocturnal,
but are occasionally seen frolicking with each other in
shady and secluded places during the day. Their food
consists, for the most part, of small birds, lizards, and
various reptiles. At times, however, they repair to the
neighboring streams, for the purpose of catching fish and
snails, which they like to procure occasionally by way of
a dietetieal change !
The female opossum is furnished with a pouch like
that of the kangaroo, in which she nourishes her young
until they are able to take care of themselves. These are
generally from eight to twelve in number ¦; and it is not
a very unusual spectacle, in their native woods, to see the
mother walking about in search of food, with her whole
family safely mounted upon her back.
In thaiafternoon I concluded to undertake a short trip
of exploration in our canoe, — but I could not pursuade J.
to accompany me ! Whether he was unwilling to expose

244

himself to the heat of the sun, or loath to tear himself
away from the lovely presence of Senhora Prout, I shall
not pretend to say — at all events, he positively refused
to go with me, so I set out on the excursion alone.

PARA. 245

CHAPTER XXIV.
Solitary Canoe Excursion. — Adventure with an Enormous
Snake. — Return to the Mills. — The fatal End of a Somnam
bulist. — An extraordinary Marriage. — Invitation to visit
" Vigia."
Leaving L'Aranjeira, I proceeded slowly up the stream.
The day was beautiful, and the air so sublimated with the
burning sunlight, that even the smallest object shone
amid the deep green of the foliage with picture-like dis
tinctness 'K scarcely a flower, or tree, or plant, which
gemmed the banks, escaped my observation. The sky
above me was like that of Italy, pure and translucent,
and so etherial and cloudless as to exhaust the human
vision, which seeks in vain for something upon which to
concentrate its scattered rays. A few insects floated
about in the clear atmosphere ; but they were the only
signs of hfe that were manifest. The birds had retired
to their shady bowers in the thickets, but at intervals I
caught hasty glimpses of their gay plumes through the
interstices of the thickly matted foliage.
Entering the mouth of a tributary brook, my canoe
came in collision with a hidden snag, with such force as
nearly to capsize it. My coat and game bag both fell

246 PARA.
into the water, thus rendering my ammunition unfit for
immediate use. This was quite discouraging, but as the
tide was now running up with great power, it was useless
to think of returning, therefore I made the best of the
accident which had occurred, by exposing my powder-
horn and percussion caps to the influence of the sun, and
pushing on in my " montaria" up the streamlet.
The banks gradually approached nearer and nearer to
each other as I advanced, and at length not more than a
few yards intervened between them. The trees on the
right hand bank were large and closely congregated
together. On the left was a dense thicket of mangroves,
whose long and numerous shoots radiating in all direc
tions, and then sinking down again into the muddy bot
tom of the stream, constituted an extraordinary spectacle
of vegetable network. Beneath its shelter I saw a num
ber of " great rails" running along, but fortunately for
them I was incapacitated from doing them any harm.
Other birds also flew about the tree tops over my head ;
but they, too, were safe, and conscious only of liberty,
seemed to take little heed of my approach.
While cogitating upon my deplorable situation, my
eyes unconsciously closed upon the romantic scene
around, and astonishing as it may appear to the reader,
I actually fell asleep. How long this slumber continued
I am unable to say, but finally it was broken by the loud
paddling of a canoe near by. Starting up as if from
a wild dream, I now became aware of all that had passed,

PARA. 247
and of my present condition. But what was my amaze
ment on discovering that my boat was resting on a
miniature " Ararat," where it had been left by the re
ceding waters, and was so securely fixed that without
assistance it would undoubtedly have been impossible
for me to have left the spot until the change of the tide
had again over-flooded it ? Aground under such circum
stances, for two or three hours, was a trial to which Job,
luckily, was never subjected. Thanks, then, to the kind
fortune which relieved me from my provoking situa
tion. A boat was drawing nigh, not exactly manned, but
under the management of two women, and a young
damsel, whose position in the stern of the canoe indi
cated that she acted as its pilotess ; and a right skilful
and pretty one she made ! Neither of them had any
clothing whatever above their waist, and little need had
they of them in this wilderness, where the birds and
flowers were the only beholders of their charms ! As
soon as their eyes fell upon me, they began to laugh
most immoderately, and quizzically asked me how I
became perched upon that sand bar ? It certainly was a
source of great wonderment to them, but as soon as I
had given them as graphic an explanation as I was able
of the matter, they immediately jumped into the water,
and by their united strength, shortly succeeded in setting
my " montaria" once more afloat.
Having proceeded for at least half a mile further up

248 P A R*A .
the stream, I discerned an immense object tumbling and
rolling on the surface of the water, within five or six rods
in front of my canoe. What it was I could not defi
nitely determine, but I resolved if possible to give it
a heavy broadside. To this effect I examined my ammu
nition, and found that a portion of it was perfectly dry,
and several ofthe caps in a condition for use. Putting a
tremendous charge in my gun, I held it ready to fire at
the first favorable opportunity, and in this manner gra
dually approached the unknown monster. To my horror
I at length perceived that it was a prodigious " boa,"
about twenty-five feet in length. In a moment both of
my barrels were discharged, but with what effect could
not for some time be seen, on account ofthe density ofthe
smoke. When it had cleared away, I had an excellent
view of the serpent, stretched out to his full extent along
the margin ofthe stream, and apparently dead !
Re-loading my gun, I again fired at the monster, and
evidently gave him its entire contents. Upon receiving
this, his animation, which seemed to have been suspended
since my first charge, once more returned, and the ani
mal swam quickly to the opposite side of the stream.
His strange motions and convolutions in the water,
showed very plainly that he was suffering with violent
pain. Finally he opened his mouth to its utmost extent,
and to my surprise out came an immense Muscovy cluck
of the largest size, which, from its appearance, I judged
to have been recently swallowed. While in the act

PARA. 249
of ejecting this bird, I deliberately stationed myself
within a few feet of the " boa," prepared to fire into his
mouth the instant he had disgorged himself of the duck.
Intense, however, was my disappointment when the cap
of my gun exploded without igniting the powder. This
was perplexing indeed ! The snake, being now relieved
of the load on his stomach, began to be comparatively
lively and frisky once more. At last he plunged his
head down into the water, and it seemed to me as if he
was entering some concealed hole in the bank of the
stream ; finally only one foot of his tail was visible above
the surface, the other twenty-four having disappeared
from my sight. What was to be done ? You must not
accuse me of fibbing, dear reader, when I say, that in my
desperation I seized with my hands the extremity of the
serpent's tail, and gave it a very vigorous pull. The fel
low, it appeared, had merely been practising a ruse de
gutrre, for his head immediately emerged from the water,
and turning towards me, he thrust out his forked tongue,
and began to hiss loudly, while all the time his eyes glis
tened like coals of fire. Such positive effrontery as this was
not to be endured, so I raised my gun and gave the crea
ture another charge. This, I thought, broke his neck, for
he floated lifelessly as it were, to the shore. I now
conjectured that his end was near, but in this suppo
sition I was altogether mistaken. More than an hour
elapsed, and still the serpent lived, and moreover
seemed to be recovering his former activity. I watched
11*

250

him with as much eagerness as a cat ogles a mouse, for
I was fearful that he might escape me, and my fears
were but too well founded — alas ! too true ! ! ! Having
acquired a sufficiency of strength, he commenced a slow
ascent of the bank ; as my dry ammunition was now
exhausted, it was out of my power to offer him further
molestation, therefore he stole on through the bushes
with safety, and to my great chagrin and mortification
eventually disappeared amid the shrubbery !
Dejected and sorrowful I turned my canoe, and began
to retrace my winding course towards L'Aranjeira.
" What !" I ruminated, " will J. say when I tell him
of my encounter with the snake ? What a capital
handle it will be for the quizzing humor of my friend
W. at the mills ! Will they not say that my optics
were egregiously imposed upon, and that they did not
believe the snake was more than five or six feet in
length (if, indeed, I saw any), but that the fear Snd
excitement I was under at the time, magnified him to
quadruple his actual size?" This I was confident
would be said ; and if ever an Indian regretted the
loss of an enemy's scalp, so did I mourn for the loss
of that huge and valuable snake !
On arriving at the " orange grove," J. met me at the
shore, having been somewhat anxious as to the cause of
my protracted absence, and in constant expectation of
my return for the two past hours. Seeing that I had
no game, his surprise was increased, and he eagerly

251

inquired the reason of my detention. I then gave him
a full and correct account of all that had befallen me,
but I could see by the smile in his eye that he was
rather inclined to be sceptical.
" Well, Jack," said he, " you sometimes deal with the
strange and wonderful, but this snake story goes ahead
of anything I ever heard you relate before. You never
gave me the slightest reason to suspect your veracity,
but yet may not your eyes have been deceived as to the
length of the creature ? You probably remember the
anecdote I told you some time ago of the captain and
his eighty foot snake ; he intended to tell the truth, but
by a simple experiment I discovered that his optics were
of a multiplying nature ! I fear yours are likewise !"
" Now, J., for friendship's sake, don't say another
word on this matter to-day, for I am sufficiently
wretched in my disappointment. I see plainly that I
am destined to be a martyr to disbelief from this day's
ill-luck. But let us now take a swing in our hammocks
under the veranda, and have a comfortable smoke
together, for I long to bury in oblivion the provoking
events of this afternoon !"
At daybreak ou the following morning we bade fare
well to L'Aranjeira, and started on our return to
Maguary. We had not only a considerable number of
new birds and other curiosities, but also a large supply
of fruit of various kinds, with which the generous-hearted
natives had loaded our canoe.

252

Without meeting with any incidents by the way,
except of the sporting kind, we at length arrived at the
" mills." W. seemed glad to see us again ; but oh !
how he did laugh when J. related to him my snake
adventure. " Well !" said he, " that will do for John to tell his
friends when he gets home, or will do to serve up to the
marines on the passage ! And," continued he, address
ing me, " allow me to insinuate in the most gentle man
ner in the world, that if you should ever publish an
account of this singular story, it would be well for you
to say, by way of embellishment, that when you fired
into the snake, he became seriously indisposed ; where
upon a whole flock of ducks flew out of his mouth /"
At three o'clock in the afternoon I left Maguary for
the city. I was accompanied on this particular trip by
a Scotch gentleman, who had resided at Para for many
years. He was a remarkably intelligent person, and an
excellent companion. His fund of anecdotes and mar
vellous stories seemed inexhaustible, and I experienced
much pleasure in listening to their narration from his
own lips. The following incident, I remember, struck
me very forcibly at the time : —
" Not many years ago," said he, " while residing in
one of the loftiest houses in the city, I had a room-mate
by the name of Fernando. He was an amiable and
interesting young man, but much given to walking in
his sleep ; in a word, he was a somnambulist ! Our

253

apartment was situated on the fourth floor, and scarcely
a night passed that my companion did not get up
and perform his nocturnal perambulations through the
house. He would unbolt the door as deliberately as if
he were awake, and walk about from room to room
without ever meeting with any accident, and at last
return quietly to his own domicil. Weeks glided away,
and I became so accustomed to his peculiar habits that
all apprehensions of danger vanished from my mind. I
little dreamed of the dreadful consequences which were
to ensue. One night, while the moon was shedding her
mellow rays in a network of light through the casement,
I distinctly saw my friend arise, walk directly towards
the window, open it, and then jump out. The noise of
his fall, and the agonizing shriek which broke instantly
upon my ear, like the wail of a condemned spirit, roused
me from the state of stupor in which I had been lying,
and I started up, as if just awakened from a horrid
dream. My heart throbbed vehemently, and my pulses
thrilled with fear. Had I been the victim of night
mare ! Alas ! one glance at the empty hammock of
my companion banished away this delusion, and the ter
rible truth rushed at once like a cataract upon my mind.
Goaded almost to madness, I rushed to an adjacent
room, where several of the household were sleeping, and
told them briefly all that had occurred. The intelli
gence filled them with dismay. Getting up as soon as
possible, a lantern was procured, and we went out

254 PARA.
together into the street ; and there, on the cold pave
ment, beneath that fatal window, lay the crushed and
lifeless body of my mysterious room-mate weltering in a
pool of blood and gore !"
Walking on with rapid steps through the shady
avenue of the forest, we reached the Roscenia de Nazare
shortly after sunset. Pursuing our way into the city, I
repaired to Mr. Campbell's hospitable mansion, where I
spent the night. In the morning I was introduced to a
young American planter, who had recently arrived from
the island of Madeira. The brief narrative which he
gave me of his adventures since leaving home was
exceedingly novel and entertaining. He told me that it
was nearly a year since his departure from the United
States, and that in the meantime he had visited Spain
and several other European countries. While on a
return passage to his native land, the vessel in which he
was embarked " sprang a leak," and was soon reduced
to a sinking condition. Being unable to proceed on the
voyage, the captain determined to run his ship into the
nearest port. Soon they were safely anchored in one of
the harbors of Madeira. So well pleased was our ad
venturer with the attractions of this island, that he
resolved to make a short stay before exposing himself
again to the perils of the great deep. In a few days he
became desperately enamored of one of the beautiful
maids of the country ; and so strong was the love with
which he was thus suddenly inspired, that he resolved

para. 255
to make love to her forthwith, and if possible marry her.
She was a lovely girl, and could not have been more
than sixteen or seventeen years of age. The obstacles
which were in the way of the desired union would have
intimidated any one of a less enterprising nature than
our heroic friend. In the first place they were unable to
speak each other's language ; secondly, they were of
opposite religious sects, the young lady and her family
being true Catholics, while our hero himself was a Pro
testant. What was to be done under circumstances so
inauspicious as these ! Fortunately, the brother of the
damsel was conversant with both the English and the
Portuguese tongues. To him therefore our friend pro
cured an introduction, and through him a regular and
persevering courtship was commenced and carried on
for the period of four weeks. The result was the com
plete discomfiture of the handsome Senhorita, who
yielded up her heart freely to her victor, on condition that
he would instantly become a Catholic. To this he was
obliged to consent, and in a few days after he was mar
ried to the young lady, whose acquaintance was made so
accidentally, and who, in would seem, had been predes
tined for him by heaven — for only a few weeks had
elapsed since neither of them was aware of tfee exist
ence of the other !
Desiring to see Brazil before returning to the United
States, he took passage with his wife in a vessel bound
for Para. His brother-in-law accompanied him, and

256 para.
undoubtedly made himself useful as a translator or
medium of communication between the happy pair dur
ing the blissful period of their honey moon !
While taking a promenade through the streets of the
city, I met with Captain Hayden, with whom I strolled
out to the Roscenia. He said that he had been ordered
by the " President " of the Province to take the Bishop
down to the village of Vigia in his steam vessel, the
" Thetis," and in the generosity of his heart he gave me
an invitation to accompany him on this excursion. This
kind proposal accorded so well with my desires, that I
accepted it at once.

PARA. 257

CHAPTER XXV,
Embarkation for Vigia. — The Captain's Cabin. — Plenitude of
Cockroaches. — Arrival at Vigia. — The Cathedral. — A novel
Spectacle. — A Cabinet of Children. — An Evening Scene.
Jost before sunset one bright afternoon, I went on board
of the " Thetis," which the Captain had -informed me
was to leave with the flood tide in the morning, at least
two hours before the break of day. The Bishop, Chief
Padre, and others of the holy faculty were already
aboard, and very pleasant, good-natured, and sociable
persons they proved to be. The evening was, as usual,
extremely fine, and from the deck of our small vessel
the scenery which surrounded us seemed inexpressibly
beautiful. By the rich moonlight, the romantic city
which lay directly before us, with its curious old edifices
and tall green plants of grotesque forms peeping up
here and there, looked as if it might be the fairy capital
of some enchanted kingdom ! On either bank of the
noble river proudly arose the wild forest of Brazil in all
its incomparable grandeur and magnificenft, standing as
lovely and as beautiful as it did a thousand years ago,
and looking as youthful and as green !
At four o'clock in the morning we weighed anchor,

258 PARA.
and with the united aid of steam, wind, and tide, made
a rapid descent of the river. At sunrise we were more
than twenty miles from Para, and sailing on at the rate
of nine or ten knots per hour. The firmament above us
was of the clearest blue. The undulating surface of the
water was sparkling with the reflected sunlight, while
the woods along the shore were dripping with dew, and
shivering in the mild and gladsome breeze of morn ;
flocks of birds flew with a chattering sound far over our
heads, and occasionally we were visited by large moths
and glittering butterflies from the land. Triumphantly
our vessel dashed on " like a thing of life," with her
wing-like sail fully distended and the spray of her
wheels glistening with rainbow hues in the translucent
rays of the sun.
I was standing near the forecastle, leaning against the
large thirty-two pounder which was there mounted on a
swivel, gazing enraptured upon the glorious prospect,
and lulled into a kind of reverie by the tinkling of the
wavelets as they broke softly upon our coppered prow,
when I was suddenly aroused from this state of dreamy
delight by the steward, who summoned me to the break
fast-table in the Captain's cabin.
The cabin was small, but particularly neat and hand
somely furnished. It was supplied with a comfortable
sofa, a swinging library of select books, and a splendidly
framed portrait of the Emperor, Don Pedro Secundo.
Opening one of the pantry doors, in order to get a

PARA. 259
glass of water, a strange scene of insect confusion
presented itself, accompanied by a palpable sound of
scampering, crawling, and busy running to and fro, such
as nothing but a legion of frightened cockroaches could
make. They had been just feasting themselves upon a
dish of sweetmeats which was exposed on one of the
shelves, but as soon as they beheld my eyes staring
upon them, they rushed so quickly to their various hid
ing places that in a few moments not a single one of the
whole army was to be seen. The Captain, who was
reclining on the sofa, beheld the scene with the most
perfect apathy, and merely remarked that the whole
vessel was perfectly overrun with these odious vermin,
and that they were the most prolific creatures in the
world !
Those who have never visited the Tropics; can hardly
realize the size which these insects attain ! I have seen
them nearly four inches in length, with grossly corpulent
bodies and savage-looking physiognomies, running about
like hungry lions, seeking something to devour.. Two
or three " roosters " were permitted to cruise at large
over the deck, for the purpose of keeping their increase
within bounds! I was often much amused to see
these feathered bipeds give rapid chase to a large roach
which they perceived at some distance, and then halt
suddenly when they had reached him, as if alarmed at
his prodigious size and ferocious appearance ! Methinks
no object in nature could possibly be more frightful than

260 PARA.
one of these creatures when viewed through a powerful
magnifying glass !
At two o'clock we entered the bay in fine style, our
flags waving handsomely in the gentle breeze, and our
" long thirty-two" thundering forth her deafening salutes,
at short and measured intervals !
My first impressions of Vigia were, highly favorable.
The shores of the bay were of white sand and of ex
tremely gradual ascent. Along the beach, down to the
water's edge, was a dense assemblage of people, who had
gathered together from all parts of the adjacent country
for the purpose of welcoming the Bishop — so great was
the enthusiasm which the news of his coming had
created. When the " Thetis " had approached within a suitable
distance frojn the shore, she dropped anchor in the
stream. Immediately a long and ornamental pleasure
boat left the beach, and was propelled towards us with
exceeding rapidity. Beneath an ornamental canopy the
" presidenti " of the village and sevefal other worthy dig
nitaries sat luxuriantly at their ease on cushioned seats,
while a dozen swarthy negroes were pulling at their oars
in the body of the craft, with a degree of enthusiasm
which was quite remarkable.
As soon as we were boarded by this official delegation,
an amusing scene ensued, of outlandish gesticulation,
vehement conversation, and ridiculous grimace. The
Bishop having put on his splendid robes of office and

PARA. 261
seated himself in the boat, it pushed off directly for the
shore. Nothing could have been richer than the Bishop's
attire. His gown was composed of scarlet silk, while over
his shoulders and breast drooped a magnificent cape
From his neck was suspended an elegantly carved cross
of gold, while on his head he wore a three-cornered hat,
banded by an embroidered fillet of golden tissue.
No sooner had the pinnace touched the shore, than the
congregated throng of devotees prostrated themselves
simultaneously upon the ground. The crowd having
opened a passage through their midst, the Bishop and
his attendants passed slowly on towards the cathedral,
whose bells were then ringing out a sonorous welcome.!
Entering the church in company with Capt. Hayden,
we took our position in front, near one of the principal
altars. Soon the chant commenced, the most solemn,
deep, and wildest strain of melody to which my ears had
ever listened.
During the progress of the prayer which followed the
music, my attention was arrested by the sound of ap
proaching footsteps, and turning my head a little on one
side, from a natural curiosity to see by whom they were
occasioned, what was my astonishment at beholding a
small Cupid-like boy, in a state of absolute nakedness,
walking up artlessly towards the altar, his face beaming
with innocence, and unsuffused by the slightest blush of
shame!

262 para.
Emerging from the cathedral we strolled through the
town and finally stopped at the humble cottage of the
pilot who had guided our vessel safely into the harbor.
It was prettily situated near the margin of the river,
and so completely enveloped with luxuriant fruit-trees,
that at the distance of a few rods it could hardly be
discerned. Never did any one possess a more varied and interest
ing cabinet of children than this good natured pilot.
They were four in number, but yet they were as distinct
from each other as if they had been born of as many
distinct races. The youngest was a genuine Brazilian,
with a light brunette complexion — the next was of a
general white, with dark freckly spots of a monstrous
size, giving the youngster quite a leopard-like appear
ance — the third was a perfect mulatto — while the eldest
was a handsome girl, with regular features and the rich
olive skin of the mameluke.
The evening was delightful, and we spent it pleasantly
on board of the steamer. The waters of the bay were as
waveless as those of a sleeping lake on a mild and tran
quil summer's night. Fantastic craft glided in the star
light, each one leaving behind it a train of phosphores
cent light. Along the shore, the bushes were drooping
languidly, as if overcome with weariness, while their pro
fusion of fragrant flowers gave out their delicious sweet
ness to the air. But above everything else, towered the

PARA. 263
splendid ruin of an ancient abbey, which at that time and
with the feelings which then overpowered my mind,
seemed like a great tombstone ! — a chronicler of ages
that had passed away !

264 PARA.

CHAPTER XXVI.
Our Quarters on Shore. — An Intrusion. — A Tableau of Female
Beauty. — Description of Victurena, the Maid of Vigia. — Sudden
Illness of the Captain. — Departure from Vigia. — Embarkation
for the United States. — Farewell to Brazil.
A consultation being held in the morning, it was re
solved that, a change of quarters be effected immediately
— from the vessel to the shore ! The steward was, there
fore, dispatched to the village for the purpose of hiring a
suitable house for our accommodation. Having faith
fully executed this important mission, he returned to the
vessel, and gave us so flattering an account of the place
he had selected, that we determined to go and take
possession of it without delay.
We found the building to be of good size, well ven
tilated, and in a condition for immediate habitation. It
was located on the front street of the village, and com
manded an extensive view of the bay and its surrounding
scenery, while directly before it lay an immense grass-
plot, looking like a carpet of vivid green !
Fortunately our present establishment was provided
with a cosy little veranda, and a small yard, plentifully
supplied with a variety of shady trees.

PARA. 265
One day I ventured, as if by accident, into the garden
of our neighbors, nor did I repent my temerity, although
the first scene which I beheld, convicted me of unwar
rantable intrusion, and chained me to the spot with
mingled astonishment and admiration. The dream-like
vision which I saw, was that of four love-inspiring
maidens, in their lightest garbs, artlessly reclining upon
the ground, beneath the refreshing shade of a banana
grove !
Recovering in a measure from my amazement, I
walked up deliberately to the spot where the damsels
were resting, and having saluted them, began to stam
mer out an apology for the liberty I had taken. They,
however, laughed merrily, as if exceedingly amused at
my embarrassment, and then reassured me by a cordial
welcome. Grateful for this kind reception, I presented each of
them with a cigar, and while they are thus engaged in
smoking, which the reader is to understand they did with
the utmost gout, I crave the privilege of describing one
of them.
In a word, she was incomparably the most beautiful
girl I had ever seen ! In stature she was rather inferior
to the average of womankind, though admirably propor
tioned in every limb. Half an inch more would cer
tainly have impaired the perfect symmetry of her angelic
form. Her face was oval, and her features as classic and ex-
12

266 para.
quisitely chiselled as those of a Grecian maid. Her
complexion was rich, being slightly tinged with the olive
and rose, and as smooth, as moist, and as soft, as that
of a young Circassian. Her eyes were as black as the
darkness of a midnight tempest at sea, and their glances
as quick and bright as the lurid gleams of the lightning !
But to what can I liken her ripe, pouting, and ruby lips !
even cherries, strawberries, and every other crimson fruit
which I can call to my recollection, seem hardly ade
quate for a comparison ! They were as red and glowing
as the pure blood which coursed in her veins ; and the
innocent smile which shed its light over her lovely coun
tenance, animating every feature with its celestial sun
light, must have filled with delight those guardian spirits
by whom she is ceaselessly protected — who watch over
her fondly — the one over her right shoulder, the other
over her left.
Her head was profusely decorated with heavy clusters
of fine dark hair, which hung in dishevelled wavy tresses
over her delicately rounded neck and shoulders. They
were intertwined with a few flowerets, which were the
only ornaments she wore ! Lovely girl ! she needed none
save those with which nature had gifted her !
Her dress was becoming and remarkably well adapted
to her form and figure. It was sufficiently short to dis
close two of the prettiest feet imaginable, and drooped so
innocently low as to reveal a bosom of the most ravish-

PARA. 267
ing beauty. Such was the charming maid of Vigia.
Her name was Victurena !
The relation of my adventure, on my return to the
Captain's quarters, created a wonderful deal of merri
ment among the officers, who said that I was now in a
fair way of making a conquest, provided I only had the
courage to persevere. Alas ! How would it have been
possible for me ever to have become a conqueror, when I
was already a captive I
* * * * *
Two weeks passed by, and we were still keeping
bachelor's hall in the quiet village of Vigia ! During the
day, we were wont to stroll out for miles in the vicinity
of the town, making visits at the different plantations
and country residences. Our barrack-room was supplied
with a goodly assortment of books and papers from the
vessel, and also with a variety of musical instruments,
upon which several of the officers played with considera
ble skill. Our evenings were generally devoted to danc
ing, bathing, visiting, and dramatic performances. The
latter were composed by the officers, and acted by them
with much gusto. They were invariably of a ludicrous
character, and I never witnessed more comic representa
tions of human nature, even on a theatrical stage, than
those exhibited by these jolly fellows, solely for their own
personal gratification and amusement.
But numerous as were the other attractions of Vigia,
let no one for a moment suppose that the best of them

268 PARA.
bore the slightest comparison to the indefinable charms
of Victurena ! — no : it was seldom that her angelic form
was absent from my thoughts ; and even now, when in
the small and solitary apartment which I call my own, I
sometimes think in silence of the fairest girl who ever
crossed my wanderings in the sunny south — of the many
walks we took together by the holy moonlight of the
tropics, along the banks of the loneliest and mightiest of
rivers — it seems almost to my imagination, as if I had
indeed communed with one from the spirit land !
* * * *
But a dark pall was at length flung over our rural
enjoyments, by the sudden illness of our beloved captain.
He had been taken with a violent fever, and so rapid
and alarming was its progress, that we were fearful that
his speedy dissolution was about to ensue ; no words can
convey an adequate idea of our unutterable grief and
dismay, when we first realized this appalling and threat
ening prospect. It was as if the sun of our happiness
was rapidly sinking beneath a dark and tempestuous
horizon, and as if the stream of life was being changed
into a vast and stormy sea, a boundless ocean ; without
a single star to illumine its eternal and night-like gloom !
Thus does the severance of a single tender tie, of true
love or disinterested friendship, darken for a time all
the bright realities of life, and cast its lone spectre
hke a shadow far away into the dim regions of the
future !

PARA. 269
It was decided by the officer in command, to remove
the Captain immediately back to the city, where he could
have the most skilful medical attendance. The hour for
sailing was appointed, and everything put in readiness
for our departure ; a few hours before this took place, as
I was walking in the court-yard of our dwelling, I heard
the sound of a gentle voice, pronouncing my name with
flute-like melody : turning my eyes thither, whom should
I see but Victurena herself, standing in a graceful attitude
in the midst of a bed of flowers, and holding a solitary
rose in her hand. " Senhor," said she sweetly, " take
this rose and remember me.'7 Need I say that I accepted
her fragrant tribute, and that our lips met, while I was
whispering to her my last adieu !
It was near sunset when I embarked ; the military
guards had assembled (as was their daily custom) upon
the broad " Largo " before the village, and were chanting
in melodious unison, their evening hymn to the Virgin
Mary. At eight o'clock the " Thetis " left her moorings
in the bay and proceeded onwards towards the city.
The surface of the water was as tranquil as if asleep, and
as we noiselessly sailed over it, a host of wavelets,
sparkling with phosphorescent fireworks, glittered in our
wake, and the great river, as it undulated in the
moonlight, seemed like a sea of molten gold! The
magnificence of the starry firmament, the grandeur of the
forest, the solemn hush of nature, and the events that

270 PARA.
had occurred, were all calculated to fill our minds with
grand and solemn emotions.
* * * *
The day for our departure from Brazil having at length
arrived, we chartered half a dozen negroes to transport
our luggage to the wharf. It consisted of a miscellaneous
assortment of trunks, chests, boxes, cages, baskets of fruit,
and a number of Indian curiosities, besides many living
birds and animals. The negroes are exceedingly afraid
of snakes, and do not like to meddle with them, whether
large or small. One of the men whom- we had hired,
however, unconsciously seized the cask in which our
boa constrictor was confined, and having placed it on his
head, he began to march with it down towards the
beach. While he was moving on, the imprisoned snake
suddenly commenced hissing in so vociferous a manner,
that the frightened black dropped his burden instantly,
declaring that the devil was in the cask.
* * * *
It was with deep and sincere emotion, that we finally
took leave of all the kind friends upon whose generous
hospitality we had for so many months relied. Our
minds were overwhelmed with grief, for we were bidding
an everlasting adieu to all the beautiful haunts where
some of our pleasantest hours of life had been spent !
A fresh and strong breeze swelled our topsails when
we weighed anchor, and away flew our vessel like a

PARA. 27]
bird j ust set at liberty ! Long before the sun had declined,
the gorgeous scenery of Para, with its forests of perennial
verdure, had faded for ever from our eyes, while the vast
and glorious Atlantic rolled in awful sublimity before
us!

THK end.

3 9002 08854 6446