(American Geographical and Statistical Society
Report and memorial on Syrian Exploration.
Few York, 1857.

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SYRIAN EXPLORATION.

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REPORT AND MEMORIAL

SYRIAN EXPLORATION.

SOCIETY'S ROOMS:
N. Y. UNIVERSITY, WASHINGTON SQUARE,
NEW YORK.
1857.

REPORT.

To the Committee on Syrian Exploration of the American
Geographical and Statistical Society :
This report is respectfully submitted by the Chairman of
"the Committee as explanatory of the annexed memorial, and
the commercial importance of Syrian Arabia.
An eminent statesman, the Hon. Robert J. Walker, in a
recent publication, says, " It is now more than twenty years
•since, in the Senate of the United States, when the bill was
pending to distribute among the States, under the fiction of a
deposit never to be recalled, the surplus revenue of thirty-eight
¦millions of dollars, I suggested the application of that fund to
the purchase of California and New Mexico to the line of 32,
Tvith a quit-claim to Texas, with the consent of that republic.
Had this proposition then succeeded, all that vast territory
would then have been ours. It would have saved the war
with Mexico, at an expense of so many thousand precious
lives, of nearly one hundred millions of treasure, of fifteen
millions in addition for California, and ten millions besides for
the Gadsen purchase. Among the reasons then given by me
for that measure was this, that upon observing the map of our
continent, the course of the Red River and the Gila, the break
in the Eocky Mountains, by the Rio del Norte, at El Paso, and
of the Sierra Madre, by the Gila Eiver, nature seemed to indi
cate the proper railroad route to the Pacific. I have often
reflected what great results, so favorable to our country, would
have followed the success at that time of that proposition.

The railroad to San Francisco would long since have beeru
completed, the gold discoveries of California would have been
made in 1836, the gold of that region, as well as of Australia,.
and the gold and silver of the Gila region, poured into our
country ; and already the command of the commerce of the
world would have been seen passing from England to America
— from London to New York. The records of the State de
partment and dispatches will show that the eminent statesman
just elected to the Chief Magistracy of the Union, partici
pated in these views."
In a late number of a foreign journal, "The Nautical Mag
azine," it is stated, "Of the two projected canals, that of
America and that of Suez, the importance is very different.
The canal of Suez would unite India and Europe. It would
re-establish the commerce and prosperity, the peace and ad
vancement, of Europe, Asia, and even Africa ; in a word, of
the whole of this hemisphere, the continental superficies of
which, compared with that of the opposite, being in the pro
portion of 23 to 11."
"The command of the commerce of the world," or "the
advancement of the eastern hemisphere" alone, are not now of
so much importance as the increase of trade among all people
and on both hemispheres. The want of employment is at least
felt by the benevolent. The great geographical error of the
day seems to be that of regarding the world as a formation of
halves. The exploration of unknown regions, and the application
of all as well as the best modes of transit, are wanted to develop
the resources of every country. Petty national jealousies will
in this way be removed, and the arts of peace take the place
of those of war.
The many scientific expeditions of late years lead us to
hope, that we are rapidly approaching a period when but little
will be left to discover. The late Japan and Arctic expeditions,
those of South America, the North Pacific, Africa, and the
islands of the ocean, by governments of both hemispheres, prove
that our expectations are well founded. In this matter of ex
ploration and scientific research, we would have all nations to
vie with each other. The present Pasha of Egypt has already

¦made extensive surveys, at much expense, for the great Isthmus
•of Suez Canal. The scientific expedition to the sources of the
Nile, and the subject of growing cotton in the district watered
by the river Tigris, are equally engaging his attention. This
seems to be an example worthy of the intelligent consideration
•of other powers.
The future greatness of this western hemisphere is most
probably to be shown in her commerce of the seas. The wealth,
population and increasing trade of the eastern hemisphere,
render it comparatively better adapted than the western for a
-continuous line of railroad. All countries are particularly
interested in every isthmus. To convince ourselves of these
facts we have but to study the map of the world — to look at
what is doing in both hemispheres, in steamships, projected
railroads and telegraphs — to glance at the comparative amount
of land and water between two distant points, such as London
and Sidney. It is for the interest, therefore, of every individ
ual to push forward this age of commerce and civilization,
remembering that the greatest attainable speed is of incon
ceivable importance. Like other nations with reference to
our continent, we, as Americans, are attracted to the coun
try lying between the Mediterranean Sea and the Persian
'Gulf. This, also, like more than one isthmus, divides the
waters of the Atlantic and the Pacific. Railroads and tele-
. graphs are now proposed in this neighborhood, to connect
Europe and Asia, England and New Holland, London, Bom
bay and Sidney. It will soon be a matter of history, that
vessels formerly left Europe, or the Atlantic ports of North
America, to steer for the Canaries or Azores, in order to find
the trade winds of the northern hemisphere, to make the coast
of Brazil, and sight Cape Frio, or put into the harbor of Rio
Janeiro, to double the Cape of Good Hope, en route for India
..and China.
The interest which at least every maritime nation should
take in an isthmus, is a subject in itself. The isthmus sections,
or, as they may be called in two instances, the enlarged isth
mus, is seen in both hemispheres. Syrian Arabia, including
Palestine, to the Isthmus of Suez, is the enlarged isthmus of

the eastern hemisphere. This section has now some striking-
resemblances to Central America, of the western hemisphere.-
The political and commercial importance of both is well un
derstood in Europe generally, especially in the two proposed
ship-canals of the Isthmus of Suez and Darien, besides the
various projected railways. Many here watch the movements
in the East ; and all are familiar with the expedition sent out
three years ago by the governments of England, France and
the United States, to survey the Isthmus of Darien. It would
be gratifying if Syrian Arabia could be explored in a similar
manner. We quote what has been said of Central America, for the
sake of comparison.
" It has a situation unsurpassed by any portion of the world, not
excepting Great Britain, for commercial purposes. Forming, by a nar
row isthmus, a separation between the great seas which constitute the
field of navigation, and comprising the theatre of foreign commerce for
the globe, and being very nearly central in latitude between the poles,
it is, in fact, commercially the centre of our world. There are, at this
time, but two routes of transit, — one at the Bay of Panama, in the ex
treme south beyond the territory of the United States, by railroad ; and
one across Nicaragua, by river and lake. Two others are about to be
constructed, viz., one in Honduras, consisting of a railroad extending
from Puerto de Caballos, on the Atlantic coast, to San Lorenzo or Ama-
palla, on the Pacific, in the Bay of Fonseca, distance 160 miles, which,.
we understand, is to be commenced the ensuing spring ; the other at the
Isthmus of Tehuantepec, in Mexico, which is already in progress. Both
of these new routes will probably he open for passengers and freight
within two years. That which is the third named, has, in the opinion-
of Mr. Squier, advantages over all others. It has excellent ports at each.
end of the route.''
Besides, we have the new project for cutting a ship-canal
across the Isthmus of Darien, from Caledonia Bay on the At
lantic side to the Gulf of San Miguel on the Pacific. The
" London Times" devotes a leading article to this project, and
invites public attention to the matter of an interoceanic ship
canal, as a work affecting the interests of mankind, and of vast
importance on every ground, political, social, and commercial.
The same journal recommends the proposition to public discus
sion and minute investigation, with a view to elicit more full

and accurate information as to the feasibility of this, or any
similar enterprise. As late as Dec. 10th, 1856, it remarks :
'' Of what incalculable service to mankind 'would it have been, had
a few millions been devoted to effecting a passage through the American
Isthmus. This we have not done, while we have wasted hundreds of
millions upon powder and ball, gunships and shells. We care not at
what point of the American Isthmus, between the mouth of the San
Juan, which communicates with the Nicaragua Lake, to that of the
Atrato, which falls into the Gulf of Darien, the ground be broken, but
at some point or another, unless the English, American, and French en
gineers acknowledge themselves vanquished, it should be done. We are
not desirous to see the canal exclusively in the hands of British monop
olists. The work affects the common interests of mankind; and the more
numerous the nations which are concerned in it, the fewer are the
chances that the free passage will be interrupted by the contingencies of
future warfare.
" The population of the wbole territory of Central America is at
present only about 2,000,000. Its capacity with a population about as
dense as Massachusetts, would be about or nearly 20,000,0 CO ; or as
dense as Belgium, not far from 50,000,000.
"In addition to the advantage of commercial situation, Central
America has, for the most part, a salubrious climate, and a soil of ex
uberant fertility, producing all tropical fruits in excess, and a crop of
Indian corn every three months throughout the year."
We have but to look at the vast regions and populations of
Asia, to know that the trade of the East is but in its infancy.
Jewish influence brought to bear, by a proper representation,
in what is called Syrian Arabia, would most effectually give a
new impetus to the commerce of the East, as well as of the
world. The best representative of all nations is the Jewish.
Their commercial taste and interests are such as to unite them
on some central commercial mart, provided they are protected.
Their influence is well seen in New York, the great commercial
metropolis of the United States, where they already nearly out
number their brethren of the whole United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland. The anticipated effects on all countries of
this daily increasing influence in New York, is not a matter
of little moment. It is seen in the twenty -two synagogues of
this city, known not so much by their names, as by their
various national distinctions. The indifference or neglect of
the religious association of " The Holy Land " by the Western

Jew, is more than made up by the zeal of those of the East.
But while congregating in such large numbers in the New
World, they are still largely represented in many parts of the
Old. A recent writer states, among other facts concerning the
Jews in Abyssinia, China, and Hindostan, that " the Hindoo-
Chinese Israelites in the single city of Bombay number 5000."
It would appear that Jews were always numerous in Arabia,
the population of which is estimated at 12,000,000. Jewish ob
servances are said to characterize many tribes in Southern
Arabia professing Islam. Some are to be found in all the
¦chief market-towns of Arabia, except in the Hejaz, where they
.are forbidden. In Yemen, the native Jews still form a con
siderable community ; and further north, towards Syria, are the
warlike tribes of the Beni Hobab, who cloak Jewish faith
under a Mahometan exterior. Among them are the Beni
Arhab (Rechab), who, proud of their descent, assume the title
¦of "The Sword of Yemen." On the south coast of Arabia, the
natives manifest very generally a striking indifference to the
¦precepts of the Koran. There is the influence of the Jews, as
connected with the commerce of the interior of Africa, and the
caravan trade to Mecca. In no place on the Mediterranean
Sea is their wealth greater and more used for trade than in
Northern Africa. The Jews of Barbary are governed by their
own laws. Their number is estimated at 700,000. They are
^stated to be the only working class, and are all a very laborious
people. In Tunis they are in possession of many monopolies,
.and some of them are enormously rich. Here they are the
best mechanics. The keeping of the jewels and valuables of
the Bey is entrusted to them, and they are thus his treasurers,
private secretaries, and interpreters. The little that is known
of medicine, science, and art, is for the most part confined to
them. Those in Tunis have a kaid, or governor, appointed by
the Bey, and who may be considered as their first magistrate
in all things temporal ; but their spiritual concerns are
managed by their chief rabbi, who possesses great power,
more than even the kaid himself. In Algiers, the upper classes
of the Jews transact business with the European merchants ;
those of the middle and lower classes act as agents to the

Arabs and Berbers. At Algiers, an Arab would not sell a
couple of fowls without the aid of a Jew.
" The Jews have, by foreign and home trade, rendered
essential service to Europe. Their enterprise has stimulated
that of the Christians, and opened the way to modern trade !
In England, as well as in France, in Germany as well as in
Holland, they can now point with just pride to their own
people, eminent in banking, in commerce, science, letters, and
arts. The house of Rothschild has made contracts with the
principal sovereigns of Europe ; and the Pope himself, finding
his coffers empty, has stooped to ask favors of a Jew."
It should be remembered, that under Charlemagne and his
successors, the Jews were the merchants of all France ; and that
there also they seconded the Protestants in their noble op
position to the oppressors of the truth in the struggles for
religious liberty.
The Arabs may be all divided into three classes — the
inhabitants of towns, the cultivators of the soil, and the
Bedouin, or people of the wilderness. In the flourishing days
of the Caliphs, the Arab merchant visited China, the interior
of Africa, the shores of the Baltic, and Siberia. In truth,
Arab commerce embraced, at one time, nearly the whole
world as then known.
A colonization, in which all are represented, is for the
interest of trade. This is the germ of a true " balance of
power," as it is unfriendly to no one nation. This " Congress
of Nations," necessarily and by association interested in all
mankind, would give to the future of Syrian Arabia "the
command of the commerce of the world." To prove the central
position of Syrian Arabia, we have to remember its peculiar
position in the greatest of the two hemispheres. The desert
which lies between the rivers Jordan and Euphrates, as has
been well said, " was made by man, not by God," and is only
¦such during the dry season. The planting of trees will, as is
well known, remedy this evil.
Although we have but little knowledge of the botany of
this region, and more especially of the trees, yet the cultivation
of the olive is known to be very profitable. Our intelligent

10
representative in Syria and Palestine has recently made the
introduction of this tree into the United States, and that only
on account of its profit, the subject of one of his interesting
letters from the East. He says, " The people here call the olive
plantation the ' Mother of Widows and Orphans,' and ' the=
Widow's Property,' because the product is so large, and so
little care and. labor are required in managing the plantation.
Even the Koran numbers it among the most blessed trees.
What husbandry yields a clear profit of $300, or even $200,.
per acre ? With half a dozen acres at most, the owner might
go into ' retiracy ' for the rest of his life, pitying cotton and
tobacco planters, and, indeed, all the anxious and painstaking
industrial classes of every kind. His trees will live at least a
thousand years, beyond which he can have no earthly wants \
their fruit will drop unbeaten, and almost unasked — which he
has only to gather."
"It has been thought," says Lord Nugent, "from the
almost indestructible vitality of the olive root, after the trunk
has been cut down, or even destroyed by fire, that the old trees
now seen on the Mount of Olives must be shoots from the plants
which were in existence 1800 years ago."
We may say of this desert as a traveller says of another,
" It is true that the Sahara is a desert, but it is no more a
barren unvarying wilderness than the Highlands are one con
tinued moor. The palm trees round the wells of water form
green islands, often so numerous as to be truly archipelagos,
in the midst of a wide ocean of plains and mountains."
Whether there is a natural graveled or paved road, with,
wells for each day's journey, as Lord Lindsay describes, be
tween the country bordering the Jordan and the Euphrates,
so that we can now introduce passenger coaches, wagons for
passage, mails, and specie, or a transit similar to that which has
been kept up for years between Cairo and Suez, no one knows.
The remarkable wells which are to be met with on this des
ert, or Artesian wells, now so much in vogue in many portions
of our country, even in the great American Desert and in
California, may be used for more than transit purposes. Suc
cessful experiments have been made to " furnish water to over-

11
flow the surface abundantly for irrigation " on the American
Desert. A description of these is contained in a report to the
Secretary of War, by Capt. J. Pope, of the U. S. Topographical
Engineers. This is dated November, 1856, and consists of a
brief synopsis of the operations. The expedition under the
charge of Capt. Pope has been engaged for the past two years
in testing the practicability of procuring water by means of
Artesian wells on the high table lands of Texas and New Mexico,
in connection with the surveys for a Pacific railroad near the
32d parallel of latitude. The latest articles of intelligence from
Algeria, relate to the digging of such wells, the opening of mar
kets for the native tribes, and the exportation of corn and other
produce. Those who visited the Paris Exhibition will remem
ber the "Algerian Trophy " — the dates from Laghouat in the dis
tant Sahara — fruits of all zones — the specimens of nrtica nivea
and the crin d'afrique, the last produced from the dwarf palm,.
and much esteemed for the stuffing of cushions and beds. From
the want of hemp during- the Russian war, the French in
Algeria have turned the attention of merchants and manu
facturers to other vegetable fibres than the cotton. The fibres
of the palm tree are infinitely superior to any thing yet dis
covered for the manufacture of sailcloth, rope yarn, and ships'
cables. The durability of this article has been well tested. It
has lately met with the approbation of the examining officers
of the Woolwich Dockyard in England. The capability of a
country as well situated as Algiers should not be overlooked
in this age of exploration and commerce.
In the report of Commander Thos. J. Page, U. S. N, on the
exploration of the La Plata, the Parana, and the Uruguay, with
their tributaries, it is stated " the survey embraced an extent
of river course of 3600 miles, and of actual exploration or
travel by land of 4400 miles." The Government of the United
States may, therefore, now equally well explore Syrian Arabia.
The date palm in Arabia thrives even where the ground is-
covered with salt. The cultivation of coffee can be increased
to any extent. The Khat, a kind of tea plant, is already well
known in Yemen ; and such is the passion for it there, that it
bears a very high price. It is said to promote social feelings,

12
serenity of temper, sprightliness, and power of enduring
fatigue. The Arabs of certain districts have already learned
to irrigate so as to prevent the water from being dissipated in
its transit. They use tunnels or subterranean canals. In Oman
these cover an extent of many miles. Their height allows a
man to walk upright in them. Nejd possesses the finest breeds
of horses, large numbers of which were exported to India in
the beginning of the present century. The introduction of the
camel into our conntry is now considered of such importance
that " Mr. Heap, in carrying out the project of our government,
will probably make a visit into the interior of Asia Minor, in
pursuance of his instructions." The camels of Nejd, one divis
ion of Arabia, are famed for their speed and beauty ; for riding
purposes they are unrivaled.
We should remark, that the imminent danger supposed to
attend the occurrence of storms of wind in the deserts — the
sherky (sirocco) or east wind, loaded with fine sand — exists
only in the tales of credulous travelers. Whatever inconve
niences are endured, caravans are never buried in overwhelm
ing sands, nor men and cattle suffocated. Snow in our climate is
more than a match for sand storms.
Besides the perfumes of the interior, of poetical celebrity,
the pearl banks in the Persian Gulf extend from Bahrein about
500 miles. These give employment, it is said, to nearly 30,000
men in above 3000 boats, and yield about $400,000 yearly.
The pearls are nearly all bought by the Banyans, who engross
still more completely the produce of the pearl fishery in the
Red Sea, on the coast of the Hejaz.
The most remarkable event in the history of Arabia since
the age of the Prophet, is probably that which closed the career
of the Wahaby, a sect of religious reformers. They threatened
not only Bagdad, but Mecca, and thus provoked the hostility of
the Pasha of Egypt. This occurred towards the close of the
last century. Since that event, Hejaz and a part of Yemen
have remained under the rule of the Pasha of Egypt.
It seems certain that the trade routes of the Arabs, in the
earliest ages — in the flourishing days of Tyre and Sidon,
nearly coincided with those followed in the days of the Caliphs ;

when the caravans started from Bahrein for Bagdad, and
thence crossed the Syrian desert to Aleppo, Damascus, or
Egypt ; or from Dhofar and the ports of Hadramaut they
passed through Yemen on their way north. There are authen
tic accounts of caravans to Mecca which numbered 120,000
camels. Now-a-days, the ordinary commercial caravans rarely
exceed from 500 to 1000 loaded camels. These, with guides,
merchants, and followers of all kinds, on horses, asses, &c, re
semble in their march a little army. These caravans are now,
at times, exceedingly numerous.
The whole oasis of El-Ahsa, a fertile district of eastern
Arabia, formerly called Hajar, is supposed to contain a pop
ulation of 50,000. The word Ah3a is said to signify a place
where water, sinking through the surface of the ground, is
retained beneath. The domestic industry of El-Ahsa consists
wholly in rearing camelots, and making Abas or overcoats ; but
the inhabitants derive large sums annually from the sale of
camels and of dates ; and all the trade between the coast of the
Persian Gulf and the Bedouins of the Nejd, passes through
this oasis. The coast of the Persian Gulf, unlike that of Syria
and Palestine, has been surveyed. We can, therefore, state on
good authority, that Grane (Arabic, El-Kueit) is a seaport about
85 miles south of Bussora : it is near the northern extremity of
this Gulf, in the district of El-Ahsa. The bay has good anchor
age, is safe and well protected by the island Felihe or Pheliche.
It is about 60 miles in circuit, and has water for the largest
vessels. The town is inhabited by numerous rich merchants,
who possess about 800 native vessels, in which they trade to
the Red Sea, and to Scinde, Gujerat, and other parts of India,
whence they import grain and other goods, with which, and
with coffee, they supply the interior of Arabia. The route
directly across rather than that of sailing around Arabia, would
create anew trade coastwise with northern Africa, and especially
with Egypt. The influence of the Jewish population of the sea
ports has already been hinted at, as a great centre of commerce
opening new and changing the present routes of transit and
traffic. We regard Syrian Arabia as not at all wanting in attrac
tions, and most especially for the great maritime powers. All

14
are interested, because the most powerful empire in the world
is that which from its geographical position possesses the great
est commercial advantages. On that account the colony which
would speedily form on the Desert of Syria, would consist of an
amalgamation, as well as of the enterprise, of all nations. The
vast plains of the El-Hamad or Ed-Dahna, if not the commer
cial centre of the world, is at least so of the eastern hemisphere.
We see how easily the commercial restoration and consequent
colonization of Syria and Palestine may be effected. All will
concede that what is most wanted now is a colony between
Russia and India, one which will as rapidly as possible unite
the strength and intelligence of the world. This would be a
living barrier of more value than a Sebastopol. The planting of
such a colony would be friendly to all, as it would give an im
petus to the commerce not only of Central but of all Asia. The
Jews of Poland and Russia, and of every country, would add to
the growth of such a colony. This must take place from their
praiseworthy desire throughout the world to settle where com
merce will improve their condition. Not only Germany,
Greece, and Europe generally, but Persia, with the powers of
Central Asia, would be influenced by ties of self-interest. The
commerce between Caubul, Cashmere, Bokhara via Herat, as
well as India, must take new roads to the Mediterranean Sea.
The gold of Australia, Sumatra, and what maybe discovered in
Arabia and other portions of the East, will soon demand another
channel to Europe,
Science and commerce are rapidly advancing in the East,
and this partly by the late war. This is shown by the railroads
in contemplation, such as that from Vienna to Constantinople,
via Belgrade, now authorized by the Sultan's government — by
that from France, via Lake of Geneva, Turin, Milan, to the
Adriatic Sea — the canal to be constructed connecting the river
Danube with the Black Sea— the great ship canal of the
Isthmus of Suez — the present India route through Egypt con
necting Alexandria with Suez by railroad — the railroads and
plans not yet completed of " The Euphrates Yalley Railway
Company," connecting the ancient port of Seleucia with Alep
po — also that from the ancient seaport Joppa, now Jaffa, to Jeru-

15
salera, and thence to Damascus. The plans of " The Euphra
tes V. R. R. Co." avoid entirely the Syrian Desert. Their lines
are mostly to the east of the Euphrates and west of the Tigris
possibly owing to the immediate necessities arising from the
political situation of Herat and the war with Persia.
Every American statesman as well as merchant should study
the trade of the East, now that telegraphs are preparing to
unite Ceylon and Calcutta with Cuba and New Orleans — when
Europe is proposing so many routes to increase the trade in the
Levant by opening Asia as well as Africa to commerce. The
lines of proposed railway connecting Trieste, Belgrade, and
Hungary with Salonica, Munich with Vienna, the Danube
with the Grecian Archipelago, — are but indications of what
may take place.
We look upon the Persian Gulf and the river Tigris as well
adapted to steamers of the American pattern ; because not only
" the trade of the Persian Gulf with India is three to one that
of the Red Sea, but it is obvious that the Persian Gulf presents
such facilities for steam navigation, and can be navigated by
steamers of such small dimensions." Besides " the river Tigris
is navigable at all times of the year between Korna and Bag
dad," for steamboats drawing more water than can, at certain
seasons, possibly float on the Euphrates.
If we unite the only good natural harbors on the Syrian
coast of the Mediterranean Sea and Persian Gulf by a line, it
passes entirely to the west of the river Euphrates. This line
extended and representing a trunk railroad, has important and
extraordinary relations with more than one country. A rail
road has been projected as straight as the country, and the vast
but well-adapted desert plains will admit, between the port of
Alexandretta on the Mediterranean Sea and that of Grane on
the Persian Gulf. The most correct maps exhibit how such a
trunk road, as it were, binds together two great lines, viz. — one
drawn from London to Sidney, and the other from London to
Bombay. As the trade of Syria, on the Mediterranean Sea, is
chiefly confined to Alexandretta, Tripoli, and Beyrout, espec
ially the last, various branch roads have been proposed. It
has been thought best, however, first to unite Beyrout, by the

16
pass in Lebanon, near Sidon, with Damascus. This connects
the two most populous cities of the country, and at the same
time passes through and near the most fertile sections of Syria
and Palestine. In order to gain a point nearer a natural center
for the caravan trade of the Desert, this branch should be
extended to Tadmor (Palmyra). A branch from Tripoli to
Tadmor would certainly be the shortest. The nature of the
country, however, may not admit of its construction in any way
better than a zigzag line. That proposed from Seleucia to
Aleppo is too far to the north for our wants. On reaching a
point to the east of Tadmor by the Beyrout branch, as sug
gested, a portion of the trunk railway could most speedily be
commenced southerly to Grane, which connects by the Persian
Gulf with the waters of the Indus, &c. That portion of the
trunk railway to the north of Tadmor, towards Alexandretta,
and an easterly branch towards Bagdad and Persia, could be
undertaken more slowly if thought advisable.
The Euphrates in this plan is principally used to irrigate
the desert sections, and furnish the road and settlements with
water. A junction, finally, of the Euphrates with Tadmor by
a canal of navigation and irrigation, as another " Baree Doab "
in the Punjaub, India, will supply all that possibly may be re
quired, or that the springs of water which exist there will not
be able to supply in the future. The increased commerce and
population of the first sections would, by such a canal, possibly
anticipate and sufficiently prepare the country of the southern
section of the Euphrates, and bordering the Shat-el-Arab, for
the more speedy and substantial construction of the railway to
Grane. The serious difficulty to be overcome in all the plans
yet suggested, is the overflowing, and consequent unhealthy
condition, of the country near and below the junction of the
rivers Tigris and Euphrates.
This project is looked upon as self-supporting from its local
trade. In its beginning, and especially its desert section, it
connects and increases the caravan commerce of Central Asia,
at a better point than has yet been proposed. The transit to
India, from the Mediterranean Sea, is equally affected by the
same means. The carrying out of the plans would expedite the

17
complete establishment of the principle of toleration and reli
gions freedom, as set forth in the recent concessions of the
Sublime Porte.
The restoration of a desert has not been connected with any
plan as far as known, although all have admitted that there is
a great want of water in certain places, not excepting even
" that great river."
It is thought that there is enough to do ; that Anglo-Ameri
can enterprise would most speedily form a politico-commercial
union of great advantage to both nations, especially in develop
ing the dormant resources of that portion of the East. This
plan would contribute its share to ameliorate the condition of
vast populations, and finally give them even a higher grade
of civilization than we enjoy.
The air lines from London to Sydney or Bombay, intersect
some of the most prominent commercial emporiums of Europe,
Asia, the East Indies, and Australia. Among others should be
mentioned Strasbourg, Trieste, Constantinople, and Batavia.
Besides these lines, others equally striking and interesting might
be drawn. Baron Von Haxthausen's work on Transcaucasia,
shows, in the preface, lines not generally known to the world.
Among other ideas, we should not neglect to mention the
importance of the irrigation of the desert with reference, to the
ravages of the locust, to the avoiding to so large an extent the
difficulties of keeping in repair the embankments of the river
Euphrates, and the annoyances arising from some Arab tribes.
By the cultivation of trees, already referred to, the rains would
most probably be restored, and the desert speedily made to
contribute to the support of a great trunk railroad. The late
discoveries in the manufacture of iron ; the great speed attain
able by the enlarged locomotive; the recent improvements in
submarine engineering by " the nautilus," and its adaptation
to the construction of harbors, prove that individual, and even
national interest is fast merging into that of all mankind. The
shortest line from the Mediterranean Sea to the Persian Gulf
would connect Joppa and Grane. The true complement of the
Isthmus of Suez Canal is this southern line of railroad. The
increasing trade, after the construction of either of these pro-
2

18
jects, would render the other indispensable. A southern direct
line of railway would have to depend on artesian wells for water,
at least for that portion of the Syrian desert where it is impossible
to use the waters of the Jordan and Euphrates. The depression
of the valley of the Jordan might possibly be avoided by running
to the south of the Dead Sea ; but here, judging from our want
of knowledge, there is need of exploration. Until further
investigation on the advantages of Wady Sirhan, the disputed
levels of the Syrian desert, and other points briefly set forth in
" The Report of the Committee on resuming the U. S. Expedi
tion to the Jordan and Dead Sea," recently published in the
" Bulletin of the American Geographical and Statistical Soci
ety," we cannot speak confidently of the comparative merits of
any plans. A general hydrographic reconnoissance, or the
survey of the coast of Syria and Palestine, especially of that
portion near and to the south of Jaffa, is much wanted. What
the present improvements in submarine engineering could
effect at any point on the coast bordering the desert section of
Palestine, is not known. All the maritime powers, not except
ing ourselves, are interested in a speedy survey of this portion
of the Levant.
Our increasing trade with India alone, is appreciated by
the following foreign-news item : " When the mails left Cal
cutta, October 8th, 1856, there were lying in theHoogly about
140,000 tons of shipping, a large part of it American." The
single article of India rubber, whicli formerly was only ob
tained from South America, is now more cheaply imported
from the East Indies. The demand for it is constantly increas
ing. This is but one fact with reference to our trade in the
East. The Boston and Salem merchants are largely concerned in
the East India trade, especially with Sumatra and other great
islands in that part of the world, as is seen in the memorial
presented to Congress since the beginning of the year, which
arose from the pretended monopoly of the Indian Archipelago,
by Holland. We quote from this, and an able Report pre
sented at the first session of the present Congress. " The
Indian Archipelago, including the inland seas pertaining

19
thereto, is equal in extent to the surface of the United States
and territories, and contains a population of about 27,000,000
souls. The largest islands are Borneo, New Guinea, Sumatra,
Java, &c. That the attention of the commercial world has
long been drawn to the importance of opening new fields of
trade in the extensive regions of the East ; and especially in
the group of islands known as those of the East Indian Archi
pelago. Your committee regard it as highly important that
diplomatic and consular agents should be sent to one or more
points in the Archipelago ; that treaties should be made with
the native princes, laying the basis for lasting friendship and
extended commerce, and providing against the creation of
any future monopolies, or the territorial extension of any of
those existing." The United States are inquiring into the expe
diency of sending a commissioner to the islands of the East
Indian Archipelago, with powers to investigate the claims of
sovereignty which the government of the Netherlands asserts
to possess over most of the Islands, and of forming treaties
with such independent states and tribes, as may be found
thereon of sufficient power and importance to render such treat
ies necessary. We have special advantages for carrying on
trade with the Indian Archipelago from the port of San Fran
cisco, and with Central Asia and India by the Mediterranean
Sea, from our Atlantic ports, provided Syrian Arabia was open
to commerce. The internal and external evidences of great
changes in China and Central Asia, are weighty arguments in
favor of exploration.
It is only by railroads on the Syrian Desert, that Great Brit
ain, France, the Jews as a people, the United States, the Mo
hammedans, including Arabs and others, can be commercially
united. Either railway, the shortest being about 850 miles,
map measurement, would traverse the entire length of the plain
of the El-Hamad or Ed-Dahna, the Arabia Deserta of the old
geographers, and Syrian Desert of others. It would almost
seem that it was for this that God created the vast plains of
the El-Hamad, as their formation is most remarkably adapted
for this purpose. Neither hills, mountains, nor valleys are
found on the great plain as far as it is known. Besides the

20
use which could be made of the plain of Aleppo, and the flat
country and hard soil near the Euphrates, there is said to be
" a midway ridge" which might answer for a natural water
shed or for a common road. This is crossed by the great road
100 feet wide, now said to be as well paved as any street in
Paris or London, and with wells for each day's journey. This
paved road is justly called the greatest work of that astonish
ing people, the old Romans. For useful purposes these are
matters of exploration.
Volunteer individual effort can yet do much, as it has
already done in the expedition to the river Jordan and the Dead
Sea. The geological reconnoissance of the Lebanon mountains
by Henry J. Anderson, M. D., LL. D., has received its well-
merited praise from both sides of the Atlantic. What influ
ence any one individual can exert to procure such information
as is wanted, in order more speedily to bring about its attend
ant blessing, is best known to themselves. On this Desert, irri
gation is alone wanted for a successful cultivation of the soil
throughout the year. This is shown after rains, by the flower-
bearing bushes and good pasture. To supply this deficiency
it is thought possible to turn the Euphrates and the Jordan into
the Desert. The "narrow and wonderful ravines," of about
100 feet in depth, the old beds of the Euphrates, the gigantic
ancient canals wanting so little repair, are all adapted to this
purpose. The proposed magnificent harbors of Alexandretta and
Grane, not only rival the finest in the world, but are most ad
vantageously situated. The old inland basins at Seleucia, forty-
seven acres in extent, " the Euphrates Valley Railway Com
pany" expect to put in good order for the railway to Aleppo.
The cost of this and another artificial harbor near Jaffa, cannot
be told until the proper surveys and estimates have been made.
The junction of the southern line of railroad by a coastwise
branch, or one through the valley of the Jordan or the Haou-
ran, so as to unite with the road at Beyrout, Damascus, or even
with Egypt, it is only necessary to mention.
The connecting sea-routes through the Mediterranean Sea,
would bind together many nations. A canal piercing the

21
Isthmus of Corinth six miles, would extend commerce through
Greece and her archipelago to Austria and all Germany, also
over northern Italy to France and Great Britain. Either of
the Syrian Desert trunk railroads would become as it were a
new Dardanelles and Bosphorus, not to a Black Sea, but to an
Indian Ocean and the great Pacific. International companies
may yet open those roads so that all nations may be equally
interested, and their vessels of commerce act as a mutual
check the one upon the other. In this way it is possible that
vessels of war may finally lose their importance.
If India alone, with a population little less than 200,000,000,
advancing in productive industry every year, requires a railway
of over 1,000 miles in length so zigzag in its course as to touch
at Shuster for the best opium, or at Bagdad to politically influ
ence Persia, it will be built, and that possibly by the Eu
phrates Valley Railway Company. For they say, " We are
far from accepting the Ja'ber Castle line as the final solution
of the great problem — the shortest route to India. We accept
it as an installment only, confidently looking forward to the
day when the company which now proposes the first step in
the right road, will carry out the extension of their line, and
connect the Mediterranean and the Persian Gulf by an iron
road." The cost of building or taking a Sebastopol, it is unne
cessary to ask. The commercial man, as well as the states
man, should study the influence of such a road on the true
development of that country, especially Syrian Arabia. It is
for this we are in want of better maps, only to be obtained by
exploration. The shortest possible routes to India, China, and Australia,
are now not only attracting the statesman, merchant, capital
ist, but even the philanthropist ; because what increases com
merce benefits all. The Syrian Desert is therefore the most
important of the great thoroughfares by sea and land, being
the link to unite and civilize all mankind by commerce. A
desirable result might be obtained could such roads as are
proposed, not only be constructed by the combined skill, and
exemplify the peculiarities of taste, durability, and speed, of
French, English, and American engineers, but the exploration

22
be primarily conducted under their various national but united
talent. If our government took the lead in this matter, it
would be followed by others, as has been done both in the late
Japan Expedition and in deep-sea soundings across the Atlantic
Ocean. In a memoir, dated London, January, 1857, and dedicated
to the Earl of Clarendon, by W. P. Andrew, F. R. G. S., it is
stated that " the route to Australia by way of Southampton,
Alexandria, and Suez, is practically quicker by ten days than
by way of Panama. It is a common mistake that the road
via, the Isthmus of Panama is the shortest from London to Sid
ney. The two routes stand in the relation of 8,400 geograph
ical miles via the Euphrates, and of 9,900 geographical miles
via the Isthmus of Panama, or 1,500 geographical miles in
favor of the Euphrates route."
To facilitate intercourse, and relieve the necessities of
Christians, Jews, and Mohammedans in the East — to spread
civilization where it has been entirely neglected and is most
needed, viz., among the Arabs, we know of no better instru
mentality. For the Arab may be said to be especially
neglected; when missionaries are exploring the interior of
Africa, and being settled even among the Affghans. As either
road would most permanently and intimately unite all nations
and creeds, the popularity of the enterprise could only be
measured by its influence in annihilating the deplorable prej u-
dices existing among all religious sects, and in no place
exercising more influence than in the Eastern world.
An interesting paper, principally on the physical features
of the Holy Land and Syria, was read during the past season
before " The American Geographical and Statistical Society,"
by the Rev. M. J. Raphall, Dr. Ph. The learned rabbi stated
that the idea of a road through the Syrian Desert was not new;
that he claimed no originality, and if he wanted to go back to
its first publication he would quote the Prophet Isaiah. He
gave the following translation of his Hebrew quotation—
" Behold, I bring you something new, and even now it shall
spring forth. Will you not recognize it ? I will cause a road
to be made through the wilderness, and rivers to flow through

23
the desert." Most probably before, but certainly as early as
1535, we meet with this singular English translation of this
sacred writer (Isaiah, lxi. 4), by Myles Coverdale — " They shal
buylde the long rough wildernes, and set up the olde deserte.
They shal repayre the waist places and soch as haue bene
uoyde thorow out many generacions." It is a little remarkable
that the commercial restoration and consequent colonization
of Syria, can be brought about by a railroad ; that this would
introduce a general system of fertilizing the sands of the
desert by irrigation, render indispensable the Isthmus of Suez
Canal ; that this canal and the Syrian-desert railroads would
eventually "turn the rivers into the desert " (Psalms, cvii.
verses 33, 36, 37), "dry up the Euphrates " (Revelations, xvi.
12), " destroy the tongue of the Egyptian Sea," by means
of the barrage and the proposed canal of alimentation (Isaiah
xi. 15), "heal the waters of the Dead Sea" (Ezekiel, xlvii.,
10, 11). These portions of Scripture, so simply explained, are,
with a road, prophetical (Isaiah, xlviii. 19). The sword and
the spear of the Arab are, it seems, to be used for the purposes
of agriculture (Isaiah, ii. 4). It is in this Desert that they are
in common use, but more for the destruction than the support
of our fellow-creatures. Could they be used to turn the course
of the irrigating rivulets, civilization would soon commence
among the wildest people, leading, ultimately, to the reign of
universal peace.
It has not been our intention to go into any minutiae, or
even to cover the ground of our views on the subject of the
commercial importance of Syrian Arabia. We desire to attract
attention by merely hinting at the one-sided views so prevalent
in each hemisphere, by losing sight of the central position of
Syrian Arabia, in that which in size is more than double our
own, and in its population vastly superior. We think it
important to make of easy access for the invalid, that part of
our globe which is thought to possess the finest, as well as the
most peculiar climate — one that will not only give durability
to railroads, but is admirably adapted for the great staples of
commerce. We have hinted at many articles, — among others,
of a substitute for the 40,000,000 pounds of tea which we

24
import from China, of the profit of the cultivation of the
olive, and the many uses of the palm. We have neglected to
speak of other trees, a3 the fig, or mulberry ; the last-mentioned
now cultivated in some places from the base to the top of
Mount Lebanon. The leaves are used to fatten sheep, as well
as for silk worms. We might have referred to the coal and
iron, as well as bitumen. Major-General Chesney thinks the
bitumen can be furnished for fuel at a price not to exceed six
cents per 112 lbs., even at Ja'ber Castle on the Euphrates.
We have in part described the peculiar and extraordinary
position and advantages of the Jewish nation, of their influence
upon, and the trade they can open up, even with the Arabs ;
that the Arabs of some portions of their country form an inter
mediate class between vagrant tribes and peasants ; that they
are settled as petty merchants in a continued line of small
towns, and at present conduct caravans through this desert ;
that they have ingenious methods of irrigation.
We might have spoken of the Armenians. Their indus
trious habits cause them to be preferred as tenants by the Ma-
hommedan landlord, both in Turkey and Persia. Russia has
shown her appreciation of this people when, in her wars with
Persia and Turkey, she introduced many thousand families into
Georgia. There is a striking uniformity in their character in
all parts of the world, at least in Turkey, Persia, Russia, and
India. They are most keen and indefatigable traders. The
limits of their commercial enterprise in the East are Tartary and
China. An Armenian Was the first to discover the present
route via Trebizond and Tebriz, for that commerce which for
merly passed through Bushire and Bagdad. Of what benefit
such a people would be in developing the commerce of
Syrian Arabia, is easily inferred.
The proposed lines of road are located mostly on caravan
routes. This would begin a new trade from and to all quarters,
exemplified by crossing, rather than doubling, the whole of
Arabia, and thus acting commercially on northern Africa.
We like these views of a late article in Tait's Magazine, on
the Euphrates Valley Railway, that " the friends of this scheme
are now opening out a country equally fertile but much larger

25
than Egypt itself. As for India, it has a trade that will afford
two roads in or out ; however the Calcutta, Ceylon, and Mad
ras trade may run, the Indus business will flow into the
Euphratean channel. As to grain, with means of transport
Mesopotamia would pour incalculable supplies, at prices far
below those for the same article in the Black Sea. Many
millions of inhabitants crowded the banks of the Euphrates in
ancient days. Their power was felt over all western Asia and
northern Africa. The now deserted plains were fields and
gardens. The soil teemed with vegetation. The fruits of tem
perate and tropical climes grew there in luscious abundance.
The arid sands need only again to be irrigated by the abound
ing waters to become joyous with corn, wine, and oil." The
same writer says of three great lines of railway meeting at the
termini in London, " They take widely divergent courses, and
neither of them could alone have accommodated the interme
diate traffic; this, he thinks, is an analogous case to the Indian
business, which can well support two or three routes from end
to end." A complete substitute for the river Euphrates on a ridge
supposed to be a natural watershed, using the depressions on
the adjoining desert reservoirs or pools for irrigation, turn
ing the rivers for that purpose into the narrow but deep ravines
on the north, using the, existing canals on the south, making
immediate use of the road which is supposed to exist, employ
ing the Arabs with their camels and horses at once : this is
one outline of our views. The other or southern line may, after
a hydrographic reconnoissance, be found not only the shortest,
but as furnishing less difficulties than have been binted at.
To witness the rising of the sun on the Persian Gulf,
the awe-striking but placid lake which marks a mysterious
cemetery, the " beautiful for situation " from the east, of the
mountains of Jerusalem, and the sun's setting fays falling
gently over the Mediterranean, — as has been ably described,
may, with a speed of sixty miles the hour, yet be made to
occupy but one day, and that not far distant.
Were it proper, we could dwell on the lengthened life
promised by the known effects of such an atmosphere as covers
3

26
the desert mountains near Ma'an — of the best development of
the physique, which exists there ; but the influence and the
fragrance of this atmosphere arise from a medical botany
unfortunately as yet unknown.
The labors of a Wallin, and Burton, and of the U. S.
Expedition to the Jordan and Dead Sea, had but few objects
of science in view. The resuming of this last expedition will
combine many. It may attempt to make commercial treaties
with those tribes which frequent this portion of Arabia. The
levels of the plains adjoining the Dead Sea ; the field of
antiquarian research in the ruins of known but unvisited
cities, paved roads, wells, ravines ; the peculiar botany of the
country, — these and other matters have been described in
another paper. Knowledge, which is power, is wanted of the
locality as connected with this home of the horse and the camel,
and also of its mineral wealth. We have hinted at the com
parison of the proposed expedition with what has been done
by the viceroy of Egypt, and other foreign powers ; with the
extent and distance of those undertaken by the United States
to Japan, and, among others, that of the vast interior of South
America ; and more especially of the want of a hydrographic
reconnoisance of a portion of the coast of Palestine bordering
the desert. The benefits of such expeditions are not for com
merce alone. They not only ameliorate the conditions of all
races, and lessen the prejudices of religious sects, but they are
the true field on which our navy has already gained some
laurels. A reference to the standard maps of Stieler and
Berghaus, Zimmerman and Ritter, Chesney, Johnston, and
others, shows how little is known and. what is wanted. It is
unnecessary to examine the reports of the various geographical
societies, to be convinced that we know but little. Every new
traveler proves it. This becomes most important, as the
affairs of the East compel the construction of a great road,
which, as Americans, we ought at least to turn to some profit.
An expedition of any one nation to explore Syrian Arabia
will hardly have an opportunity to tread this Desert before it
is followed by that of another, unless it be undertaken by the
maritime nations as proposed. The question is, who shall and
ought to take the lead ?

27

THE MEMORIAL.

To the Honorable the Secretary of the Navy of the United
States of America.
The Memorial of the American Geographical and Statistical Society,
respectfully showeth:
That the attention of your Memorialists has been attracted to the in
teresting region between the Jordan and the Euphrates, and southward
through the plain of El-Hamad, a country formerly renowned and
flourishing, but now, and during many centuries, one of the least known
in the Eastern Hemisphere.
That in the year 1847, the admiration of foreign nations was called
forth by the expedition the United States sent out to explore the Dead
Sea, in the interests of science. Lieut. W. F. Lynch, U. S. N., the
officer in command, acquitted himself with great ability to the full ex
tent of his instructions, which, however, as he regrets, did not authorize
him to carry his researches beyond the Dead Sea.
Your Memorialists have reason to believe that the resuming of this
expedition, hy order and under the auspices of the U. S. Navy Depart
ment, might probably lead to important discoveries in geography, geol
ogy, and medical botany. Your Memorialists even entertain the ex
pectation that such an expedition, is likely to be rewarded by the
finding of an ancient city — equal to Petra — with its unrifled monuments
the existence of which is lately become known, though no European or
American as yet has visited the ruins.
That at this particular time the Ottoman government is engaged in
establishing throughout its dominions a system of civil and religious
equality, offensive to the fanaticism of Mahometans, but conducive to
the best interests of humanity. That in the carrying out of this praise-'
worthy but arduous measure, the government of the Sultan would be
encouraged and strengthened by the moral support of any great power
other than those concerned in the late Congress of Paris. For they are

28
viewed by the Mahometans with distrust, and their support carries with
it the appearance of coercion. Whereas moral support from the United
States — -a power great as the greatest, but perfectly disinterested except
inasmuch as this republic is the only assertor and protector of religious
equality — would be justly and highly appreciated by the populations as
well as by the government of the Ottoman empire ; so that, under Prov
idence, it may perhaps become the means of enabling American enter
prise to recall into life the long dormant, but still great, capabilities of
Syrian Arabia, introducing to those countries the blessings of civilization,
and opening to the United States and to the world new and highly val
uable lines of commerce.
That in view of results so important, the American Geographical and
Statistical Society would deem it a duty to associate itself with the con
ducting of an expedition which iu point of distance and difficulty com
pares favorably with others sent out by the United States, and at the
same time will be found second to none in advancing the glory of this
country and the welfare of mankind.
Your Memorialists, therefore, respectfully suggest the necessity of re
suming the Dead Sea expedition, under instructions and with powers
adapted to the realizing of the expectations in this memorial set forth.
Approved by the American Geographical and Statistical Society,
May, 1856.
ELBERT H. CHAMPLIN, M. D.
ARCHIBALD RUSSELL.
MORRIS J. RAPHALL, Ph.D.
HENRY V. POOR.
JOSEPH P. THOMPSON, D.D.
MELANCTON SMITH, Commander, U. S. N.
HENRY J. ANDERSON, M. D., LL. D.
SIDNEY MASON.
Committee on Syrian Exploration.