JLv^ ^'Ki; /r'"- '>"" :f.kW- V.' 1 1 g^ 3S 1 1 ^ ^? *. » — 4i ay 8 P*« »-^,^i'¦l(, ' 'is. F?OLAN D.W.PAUL. )¦/ fjtf * few*! ?'• 1594. /. -ti*' ^m ~'>^M.*?i V 4! ,'\ ', *, .. ; i. Yale Center for British Art and British Studies VANISHING LONDON A SERIES OF DRAWINGS Illustrating some of the Old Houses, etc, in London and Westminster, BY ROLAND W. PAUL. 1894. PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR, 3, ARUNDEL STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. Copyright — Entered at Stationers' Hall. PREFACE. The contents of the present work need but few words of introduction. So much has from time to time been written on London, its history, and its buildings, that no attempt has been made to give a detailed historical account of the district selected. The chief aim has been to bring together in a concise and handy form a series of drawings of many of the old bits still remaining in London streets that of necessity must disappear before long, and to record some that have lately been pulled down, accompanied by such short descriptive notes as seemed necessary to give their position and history where any existed. The materials of which many are built being chiefly wood renders them peculiarly liable to destruction by fire, and the objectionable and dangerous custom of covering many of these old houses with advertisement hoardings increases the risk both to them and to the adjoining premises. The Strand and Fleet Street, and their offshoots, still retain a very large number of old houses of the 17th and i8th centuries. Cecil and Salisbury Streets have disappeared within the last year or two, but there are still interesting examples in the Adelphi, Buckingham Street being the most complete. Again, north of the churches of St. Clement Danes and St. Mary-le-Strand are Clare Market, Holywell and Wych Streets and Clement's and New Inn with many points of interest. In Westminster perhaps the most typical streets are those south of Dean's Yard, between it and Smith Square, where a large number of simple and effective examples of houses, doorways, and ironwork still remain much in their old condition. The City has fared worse. With the destruction of the remains of the house of Sir Paul Pindar in Bishopsgate Street Without, and the houses on the south side of Great Saint Helen's, the last of the old City residences of importance may be said to have disappeared. Crosby Hall, it is true, still remains, but in a much restored condition, and there are now comparatively few houses left to show the character of the old houses of the City streets. In the short descriptive notes which precede the plates several references will be found to other works treating of the historical side at greater length. The extracts are duly acknowledged in their places. Many deserve my thanks for help and facilities given me during the preparation of the following pages. The ceilings from Sir Paul Pindar's house and Crosby Hall chambers were measured from the originals now at South Kensington Museum, by the kind permission of the authorities. The last of the plates (XL.) illustrating an old fireplace recently removed from the " Old Palace," Bromley-by-Bow, although not strictly within the limits of the work, has been included on account of the interest which the building has aroused. It is from a drawing made for me by Mr. H. T. Bromley, as I had myself no opportunity of seeing the building before it was dismantled. I need hardly add that any corrections or suggestions from those into whose hands the book may come will be very gladly received. It makes no claim to be exhaustive, but it is hoped that the collection of drawings here brought together may serve as a record of an interesting period in the street architecture of London. ROLAND W. PAUL. 3, Arundel Street, W.C, 1894. LIST OF PLATES. Plate I. — Emanuel Hospital, Westminster — The Chapel. II II. — tt „ „ The Courtyard and Entrance (2). ,, III. — Panels. „ IV. — Doorway — No. 9, Grosvenor Road. ,) V. — :FlREPLACE — No. 9, GrOSVENOR RoAD. ,1 VI. — The Strand, Nos. 417, 418. ,, VII. — The Strand, Nos. 413, 414. „ VIII. — Two Doorways — Buckingham Street, Adelphi. „ IX. — Buckingham Street, Adelphi, Nos. 10 and ii. „ X. — The Strand, Nos. 164, 165. ,, XI. — The Strand, Nos. 166, 167. „ XII. — Dysart House, Norfolk Street. „ XIII. — Wych Street, Strand. ,, XIV. — Holywell Street, Strand. „ XV. — Clement's Inn, The Garden House — North and East Elevations. „ XVI. — ,, „ „ „ „ North-West View. ,, XVII. — Lincoln's Inn Fields, No. 54, and Gateposts of Lindsey House. „ XVIII. — Houses in Strand, Chancery Lane, and Fetter Lane (3). „ XIX. — The Rolls House and Chapel. ,, XX. — Lincoln's Inn — The Gateway. „ XXI. — Lincoln's Inn, Old Square. „ XXII. — Fleet Street, Nos. 184, 185. „ XXIII. — Middle Temple Lane. ,, XXIV. — Fleet Street, No. 17 — Ceiling. ,, XXV. — Fleet Street, No. 17 — Ceiling and Fireplace. „ XXVI. — The Temple, Lamb Building (2). ,, XXVII. — Great Queen Street, Nos. 55, 56. ,, XXVIII. — Doorway — Featherstone Buildings, Holborn. Old Bell Inn, Holborn. XXIX.— Fetter Lane. ,, XXX. — Barnard's Inn Hall. ,, XXXI. — Sir Paul Pindar's House, Bishopsgate Street — Window. ,. XXXII. — „ ,, „ „ „ Ceiling. ,, XXXIII. — ,, ,, ,, ,, „ Details of Ceiling. ,, XXXIV. — Bishopsgate, Three Old Houses in. „ XXXV.— Great St. Helen's, Nos. 8, 9, 10. ,, XXXVI. — Crosby Hall Chambers — Ceiling. „ XXXVII.— Austin Friars, No. 10. „ XXXVIII.— Aldgate, Nos. 6, 7. „ XXXIX.— Panels. „ XL. — Fireplace from the Palace, Bromley-by-Bow. NOTES. PLATES I., II. — Emanuel Hospital, Westminster, The picturesque group of buildings known as Emanuel Hospital is situated on the west side of Little James Street, Buckingham Gate, and built round three sides of a quadrangle, measuring about 170 feet by 90 feet. The fourth side towards the road has a large iron gate in the centre and a smaller one at each end next the gable end of the buildings. The whole is of red brick, one-storey only in height, except at the angles, where there is an upper floor. Stone has been used for the inscribed panels on the gables facing the street, the tops of the gate-posts adjoining, and for the carved panel in the pediment of the chapel, with the Arms of the Corporation of London (see Plate III.), and also for the coigns at the angles of the chapel, the windows, doorway, and plinth. The Hospital was established pursuant to a will of Anne, Lady Dacre, widow of Gregory, the last Lord Dacre of the South, towards the relief of aged people and bringing up of children in virtue and good and laudable acts in the same Hospital. Charter of Incorporation dated 1600. Lord Dacre died 25th September, 1594, and Lady Anne Dacre, his widow, 14th May, 1595, both being buried in the old parish church of Chelsea. In 1623, the guardianship passed at the death ofthe last executors to the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of the City of London. — Wheatley and Cunningham, II., 15. The present buildings date from the time of Queen Anne, when the hospital was re-built. The Chapel, opposite the entrance from James Street, and occupying the centre of the west side of the quadrangle, is shown in Plate I., and the arms in the pediment in Plate III., Fig. I. Plate II. shews one of the side gates, and the adjoining gable against the wall of which is a tablet, with the following inscription : — " This is Emanuel Hospital of the Charitable Foundation of the late LORD and LADY DACRES, for the Maintenance of Ten Poor Men, Ten Poor Women, and Twenty Poor Children, under the Government of the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of the City of LONDON. Anno 1821 : Resolved that the Boys and Girls be increased to the number of Twenty each, to be Educated and Maintained in the Hospital. That a proper School Room and a Dormitory over the same for the Boys be erected. Anno 1844: Ten additional Boys admitted. Anno 1845 : Ten additional Girls admitted. Anno 1847, The establishment now consists of sixty." Jamc^ "Sn-eei- Hospital6I0CK plan Fmo IbcOrdnoncfi^rve; AcQ\g ot- Feer- The Boys' and Girls' Schools are shewn on the plan here given, which has been taken from the Ordnance Survey. The doorways, in pairs, [ 8 ] with a large hood covering the two, supported on carved brackets, are shewn in the view of the Courtyard, Plate II. The eaves cornice is also of wood. For the arms of the City of London in the pediment of the Chapel, see Plate III. After being long threatened with demolition, this picturesque fragment of Old Westminster has just been pulled down (January, 1894). The Hospital had been vacant for some months. PLATE in.— Panels. In this plate, and also in Plate XXXIX., are given several examples of armorial tablets, panels, and boundary stones, from the City and elsewhere. The example of the City arms is in stone, and forms the pediment of the Chapel of Emanuel Hospital, Westminster (see Plate I.) The position of the 'panel on the east, or Chancery Lane side of the gateway to Lincoln's Inn, is shewn in Plate XX. The panel on the west side — now somewhat worn — is in the corresponding position over the archway. The bands on pilasters ornamented with the rose and flem de lis alternately, occur on some of the houses on the west side of Lincoln's Inn Fields, one of which is given in Plate XVII. The boundary stone of St. Clement Danes' parish is from a house. No. 2, Sheffield Street. Two efiective street tablets are given from Great James Street, Bedford Row, and Princes' Court, Westminster, the latter now on a house in Princes' Street. The fragment of Early English carving was found during the excavations made for the new buildings erected on the west side of Westminster Hall, after the Law Courts had been removed. PLATES IV., v.— No. 9, Grosvenor Road. Of several houses in this street, and northward, in Millbank Street, towards the Houses of Parliament, No. 9, now the offices of the London Road Car Company, is the largest and most interesting. It is apparently a house of the latter part of the seventeenth century, and is nearly opposite Lambeth Bridge. The windows have been modernized, and the whole front stuccoed over, but the doorway (given in Plate IV.), with its fine hood, remains in a good state, and is one of the best specimens of its kind now remaining in London. It is approached by a flight of steps, with a good plain cast-iron railing. The hood of the doorway itself is semi-circular, with a double-festoon of flowers in the centre, and two cherubs' heads and foliage in the lintel. The brackets are excellent examples of their kind, and project about 2 feet. The doorway is 4 feet wide and 10 feet high. The centre of the fanlight is arranged for a lamp, which was probably hexagonal and projected both ways. The interior of the house, which was one evidently of some importance, has some good panelling, a broad staircase, and a fireplace with carved work in one of the rooms looking westward on the first floor. This fireplace is given in Plate V. No. 10, which at one time evidently formed part of the same house, has a fine room on the ground floor, with paneUing and a carved fireplace. This house is now, however, used as offices. [ 9 ] The house, now known as Millbank House, must not be confused with Peterborough, known also at various periods as Grosvenor and Belgrave House, which stood further south, and was the last residence of importance in that direction. " The Mill bank, a very long place, which beginneth by Lindsey House, or rather by the Old Palace Yard, and runneth up into Peterborough House, which is the farthest House." — Strype, B. 6, p. 66. Peterborough House has been pulled down. There is a considerable district between this and Dean's Yard, embracing Smith Square, North Street, Barton Street, Cowley Street, and Great College Street, where many of the old doorways, some with projecting hoods and ironwork, still remain. The example here given from Great College Street is repeated several times, and there are many others, some very simple in detail, excellent specimens of the style. In Smith Square, in the north-west corner, are two doorways with good hoods, and handsome wrought-iron area railings. There is some more ironwork of the same period in North Street and Cowley Street. In Marsham Street, leading out of the Horseferry Road on the north, are some doorways similar to those in Smith Square, but apparently later in date. DoorbCiod jWn 'reatrailege^tPeet- 'ijL^iT^L PLATE VI. — Nos. 413, 414, Strand. Two houses, both with good bay windows, of two storeys, one retaining its wrought-iron balcony, a feature that will still be found in great variety in various parts of the Metropolis. No. 414 has been unfortunately disfigured by the erection of a large advertisement hoarding ; originally, it also had a balcony on the bay window. The shops are modern. The design and detail of the bay of No. 413 is particularly effective, but it has lately been disfigured by the erection of an electric lamp. PLATE VIL— Nos. 416, 417, Strand. One house only divides these from the two given on the former plate. The right-hand example in the view retains its bay much in its original state. The other has been much modernized. The chief feature of these two houses is a very fine eaves cornice carried round the entire building, including the bays. [ 10 ] Behind them is Heathcock Court, mentioned in Timbs' Curiosities of London, p. 703, Ed. 1855. The whole front is of timber, with slate hung gables over. They are probably some of the oldest of the wooden fronted houses now left. PLATES VIII., IX. — Buckingham Street, Adelphi. Of the numerous streets which lead from the Strand to the river — more properly speaking to the Embankment Gardens — Buckingham Street retains the greatest number of its old houses. The street dates from 1675, ^'^.mpedimeDr'ofc:t?ape " Emapud Hospital WeeiThinst^r. Panel oo Ea'ot' =.ide of Qafeway of Lincoln's, 1 nb. ^ S> from Pila'3fer5 of Jtouses on Ws'sf'side Lincolns Inn Reld'o. SfreefTabler q^.^'Jame'^'o"' WC. Tablef in fVibce p m aS o Cm Plate XXVII PHOTO LITHO SPWRGUE i C' LONOON Great Queen Street, Plate XXVIII, Doorway , Featherstone Buildings, Holborn The Old Bell Hotel, Holborn. Plate XXIX, OTO LITHO SPRflCUE i C lOHOOI Fetter Lane, Plate xxx. PHOTO LITHO SPRACUL 1 0= lONOON Barnard's Inn, Holborn, Flate XXXI SPRnCUL s C LONDON Sir Paul Pindar's House, Bishopsgate The Bay Window Plate XXXII il^i) — p[ I Ceiling forroerl^ infer ^ floor rSorr^.-jCowat-lte ornameni' in paneb at^B Ornamenr ar D 'LJ= IIII i , Scole. "fur Qenerol PlaP. ¦^1 ? ^fScl- I Rid- ^ca\e for Details. t«^^'^ ^f6" ro .i-"() i^ipcu' Sir Paul Pindar's House, Bishopsgate Ceiling Plate XXXIII OTO LITHO SPRRCUE » ^' LONDON Sir Paul Pindar's House, Bishopsgate : Details of Ceiling. Plate XXXIV. Ul . L. LONDON No. 84 Bishopsgate. No. 82 Bishopsgate. No. 10 Great St. Helens. Plate xxxv Great St. Helen's, Bishopsgate. Plate XXXVI. PHOTO LITCO SPRAGUE * C° LONDON Ceiling from Crosby Hall Chambers. Now at South Kensington Museiun. < Plate XXXVIII. OTO LIFHO SPRflCUE a C" I ON DON Nos. 6 AND 7 Aldgate. Plate XXXIX f ^peet mml' llli- 1. RV GuildbaW Mu-3eum s". Af^uildhaU I1ii=,eu,m. 4 V/altaraoK. teletj-s. 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