IffteY JVCill, YALt YALE 3>A '8T and its Story. llustrated. Henry % Taunt, fr.s.s. ;'-v'- Established 1835. Telephone: 131x. 3osepfi Thornton & i$on, Kew and Secondhand Booksellers. An inspection of their large Stock of Books in all classes of Literature, is invited. The Prices are plainly .and reasonably marked. Catalogues of Classical, Theological, Historical, Economic, Legal, Scientific, Mathematical and General Books, are sent post free on application. Rare BooKs sought free of charge. Book-binding in every Style. Large or small Collections of Books, bought for Prompt Gash. 11 Broad Street, Oxford. Iffley Mill in 1870. na its by Henry W. Taunt, f.r.g.s. Photographer to the Oxford Architectural and Historical Society, and Author of the well-known Guides to the Thames, &c. &c. Illustrated with Photographs. 4& (HI Zfe, OXFORD : Henry W. Taunt & do. All Rights Reserved. TAUNT a. Co.. ART PRINTERS. OXFORD. The best of thanks is rendered by the Author to his many kind friends, both at Iffley and elsewhere, who by their kind information and assistance, have materially contributed to the successful completion of this little -work. For an extended account of Iffley, Marshall's ' Township of Iffley,' published by Parker & Son, Broad St, will be found invaluable. Iffley Lock and Mill. Iffley Mill- No longer do we hear The bright and merry click clack of the moss grown wheel, The old mill 's. silent now. HE destruction by fire of the old gray mill at Iffley, on the Thames near Oxford, raised a thrill through the hearts of every lover of the picturesque ; as in its prime there were few spots on the river more beautiful or better known. Many a time has the scene graced the walls of the Academy, and many an Author has depicted a word picture of its quiet beauty ; nestling as it did amid the luxurious greenery of the old trees, with the poplars around it waving their tall heads in the western breeze. Solidly built of stone, its antiquated walls has stood the storms and floods of near Eight hundred years, to perish at last in the rival element to that which so many centuries provided its power, and with it is gone a landmark prized by many a generation in the old village, of which it was one of the chief ornaments. Just in all the glory of the spring time, it has been swept away in a whirlwind of flame, and nothing remains but the gaunt stone walls, of what was once the most picturesque of all the old mills on the river. Savs Black : — "Is there a prettier bit of quiet river scenery in the world than that around Iffley Mill. Or was it merely the glamour of the white day that rendered the place so lovely, and made us linger in the open stream to look at the Mill and its surroundings. As I write there lies before me a pencil sketch, lightly dashed here and there with water color, and the whole scene is recalled. There is the delapidated old stone building, with its red tiles, its crumbling plaster, its wooden projections and small windows, half hidden amid foliage. Further down the river there are clumps of rounded elms visible, but here around the Mill are chiefly poplars of magnificent height, that stretch up lightly and gracefully into a quiet yellow sky, and throw gigantic lines of reflection into the still water. Then out from the Mill a small island runs into the stream, the woodwork of the sluice gates bridges the interval, there is a red cow amid the green leafage of the island, and here again are splendid poplars rising singly up from the banks. Beyond is another house, then a wooden bridge, and a low line of trees ; finally the river, in a sharp curve, glimmers in the light and loses itself behind low lying meadows and marginal growth of willows and flags." Gifteleia, ( 941. ) Givetelei, ( Domesday. ) Giftele, Hyftele, Zyftelev, Yftelei, Eanflaede, Iftele, are only a few of the Eighty different spellings of Iffley; the origin of whose name there is every reason to believe was originally derived from the Saxon Giftalega or Giftelege, the field of Gifts. The Latinised form of this Gifteleia, is met with in the legendary account of Beri meadow in the Chronicles of the Abbey of Abingdon, and as before noticed, Givetelei is that used in Domesday. The first possessor of Iffley of whom any mention is made was Azor, a Saxon Thane; who held it in Edward the Confessor's time. Domesday book tells us that Earl Alberic ( or Aubery ) held of the King, Givetelei, and although the fishery worth four shillings is mentioned, no mill seems to be recorded. Alberic's Manors reverted again to the King, after his assuming the religious habit, at a cell which he had built on his estate at Colne in Essex; but the grantee to whom the proprietorship of Iffley passed is not known. In the twelfth century it is in the possession of the family of De S. Remigio and the Lady Juliana the daughter of Robert, gave to the Priory of Kenilworth the church of Iffley, and certain land with her body for burial; while to her palfrey man Robert, she gave one virgate of land which he afterwards gave to the Priory. To the hospital of St. John the Baptist in Oxford, she granted an annual rent charge of One shilling and sixpence from her mill in Iveteleie, some time between 1 155 and 1 189, and this is the earliest record we seem to have of it. William the Miller, son of Manfred, about 1220, gave an additional rent charge of Sixpence, from the acre nearest to the house of Ralph the Bridge keeper, whose office is still maintained for the collection of toll ; and John his son and Beatrice his wife in consideration of thirteen marks paid to himself and one bezant to his wife, and for the sake of freeing himself from the Jews, gave ten acres of land belonging to the Mill at 'Kiftelay.' There was a confirmation of this grant by Reginald Basset ' Lord of Yftele ' and Agnes his wife. Three generations of this family of millers gave property to St. John's Hospital, which stood on the site occupied by Magdalen College outside the East gate of Oxford. After the dissolution of the smaller monasteries the hospital and site was granted to William of Waynflete, and on it has risen the grand and picturesque Magdalen College, one of the gems of Oxford ; but there are only a few remains of the older Hospital left, in the part of the College which is now the kitchen. and some of the buildings near the Cherwell. Part only of the estate at Iffley seems to have been in possession of Juliana de S. Remy ; of this the old house known now as the Manor House with the Mill as an appurtenance, seems to have formed a separate and perhaps a subordinate Manor, which descended as distinct from the chief estate of Iffley, and there being no mention of the lady's name in the Pipe rolls in relation to Iffley, seems to confirm this. The big Manorial estate appears to have belonged to the Fitz Nigel or Fitz Neele family, as in Henry II, (1164) Richard Fitz Neel is stated to owe one hundred marks for the right of Ivittelai, and Robert de S. Remigio four marks, from which he was free by the Kings writ. In 1200, Richard Fitzneel made a grant to the Knights Templars of Cowley, of some land at Iffley; his daughter and heiress Agnes, married Reginald Basset, who in one of the muniments of Magdalen College is described as Lord of If tele, and as we have seen, as such confirms the grant of land; but in 1265 Robert Fitzneel, who had come into the property, was killed at the battle of Evesham fighting against the Crown, and soon after, Walter de Merton received a grant of his forfeited estates, of which Iffley was part ; and this he again passed to Robert de Lusches, who is subsequently mentioned as owner of the land and tenement in Parva Yfteleye. The grant to Walter, was most probably a friendly arrangement by which the estates were preserved to Robert Fitzneel, who had married Walter de Merton's niece, and there are other bequests to him in De Merton's will. In the Hundreds Rolls of 7 Ed. I., 1279 there is a full des cription of the parish of Iffley and among the owners " Henry the Clerk, the son of Elena," is said to hold " a Messuage, one Virgate of land, a Mill, and a Fishery as far as the Mill known as Boymulle, on the payment of forty shillings ; the brethren of the hospital of St. John Baptist held fourteen acres of the same, of the gift of John the Miller." The principal Manor after this became a Royal possession, passing to Ingelram de Coucy the Count of Soissons, who had been sent over as a hostage by John, King of France, and who had won the hand of Isabella, the Princess Royal, the eldest daughter of King Edward III, and was created Earl of Bedford. This grant was made jointly with Isabella, but on her death it reverted to King Richard II, and by him was granted as part of her dowry, to Anne of Bohemia, his Queen. By the Queen, Yftelei was granted to Sir Richard Abberbury for her life, and in 1385 the grant was confirmed by the King in terms to the following effect. " The King &c, greeting : Know ye that whereas Richard Abberbury, chevalier, for keeping our state during our youth, sold his Manors of Shorham &c., being of great value, we having consideration thereunto of our special favour, and for the good service which the said Richard did to us in our youth, have given and granted to the aforesaid Richard and his heirs, the reversions of the Manor of Yistele in the County of Oxon, which the said Richard held for her life of the gift and grant of our most dear Consort the Queen of England which grant we have confirmed by our letters patent &c, &c. Sir Richard was also Lord of Donnington, where he built the Castle and the Hospital, and by letters patent ( 1303,) he obtained permission to assign the Manor of Iffley, to support this Hospital and thus to this day part of Iffley still belongs to the maintain- ence of " God's Poor House of Donnington." The lands of the smaller manor passed through a number of hands. We find in 1284 the same Henry the Clerk granting to John and Christina Culverd a messauge in Hyftele, with the mill and a fishery, on the payment of an annual rent of ten shillings, for One hundred marks; and in 1304, Christina, the widow of John, granted to her son Andrew, the Mill with its appurtenances and certain land ; in 1324, John the son of Andrew obtained a release from Henry de la Fenne of Church Cowley, of the Mill with its appurtenance and one house. In 1368, the Mill, fishery &c, passed to John Bereford, and from him again, passed through several hands, and about 1427 the whole of the property, includ ing the smaller Manor and the Mill, was purchased by Lincoln College, with benefaction money, with a reserved rent of three shillings to the prioress of Littlemore. From the Rev. A. Clark's history of Lincoln Coll; we gather. "John Forest Canon of Lincoln and Dean of Wells, who was a benefactor of Lincoln College, gave with other benefactions to the College, money enough to aquire property estimated to pro duce One hundred shillings rent, and William Finderne Esq of Childrey also gave the college the very ancient estate at Seacourt i 1 Botley Parish. Finderne gave also 'a notable sum of money.' With this and Forest's money, and probably smaller benefac tions, the College bought, in 1445, 147 acres of land in Little- more, Iffley, and Cowley. The most interesting portion of this purchase had been part of the forfeited estate of Richard II's unfortunate judge, Sir Robert Tresilian. This was ' unum molen- dinum aquatium,' which is still at its old trade, Iffley Mill. The view of the Mill, across the lower pool, is the finest bit of river scenery near Oxford, but how few of those who sketch it know that the College documents prove its unbroken activity, as a Mill, for more than 600 years. In 1535, the property of the College at Iffley, was described as worth yearly with a water mill as let on lease Seven pounds, from which a payment of Fifty-two shillings to Donnington Hospital, and of Eighteen-pence to Oriel College from the Mill, left the clear value of Four pounds six and sixpence, and in 1600, as appears from the report of a special Commission issued to ascer tain the property of Thomas and Arthur Pitts, when they fled from the Kingdom in Queen Elizabeth's reign ; the estate was des:ribed as "one messuage, one mill, and thirty-seven acres of land, let on lease from 1555 for sixty-one years, and worth by the year, £.12. In 1622, £400 was paid to Philip Pitts, by Sir Francis Stonor and William Wickham of Abingdon, for his in terest in the lease of the property. The rental of the Mill now is £75-15-0, ten times the amount it was in 1535. s The following Terrier gives an idea of the river pro perty belonging to Lincoln College in 1661. " A Tereer of Iffly, with watters and meade ground, and other appurtences thereunto belonging, made the 13th of November, 1661. " Imprimis, the watters begining at Nie meade ditch, which meade belongeth to Litlemore, halfe streame up to the greate Berry meade to the end of the Colledg ham; And -whole streame afterwards up to the mill, with all the back watters round the mill ayte; And whole streame from the mill up to the common watter belonging to the cittie of Oxon; And all the back watters on the east side of the greate kidney up to a meade called Tidnum, abbutting against Cowley meade end. " Item, one litle ham, about halfe a yeard of ground, be it more or lesse, lieing in Tidnum; Two hams in Mr. James his greate kidney, being about half-an-acre, be it more or lesse; Another ham in the Towne meade over against those two hams, being about half-an-acre, more or lesse; One ham, lieing on the east side of eight acres, being in length from Wootten meade clean through eight acre and some part of ten acres, being about half-an-acre of ground, more or lesse ; One ham more in the great Berry meade, adjoining to the mill streame, being about three yerds, more or lesse ; The dwelling-house and mill, two oarchards, and the mill aytes. '' By Richard Ffeshir, miller." The property of Lincoln College now includes 26a. 3r. 2op., of this the Mill and its appurtenances is ia. 3r. 2p., 25 chains of the Towing path from Iffley, up belong to the Mill, for this the Thames Conservancy pays iod. per chain, and this seems to give the clue to "Boymille" mentioned previously in the para graph respecting Henry the Clerk, the son of Elena in 1279, (p 6.) An old mill existed about this distance above Iffley, just where the Hay-ricks are, on the small detached bit of field by the side of the towing path close below the Weirs bridge, known as the old Mill garden, which is probably the ' Boymille ' mentioned. It may not be generally known the stream from the Long Bridges to Iffley was not used for the purpose of navigation in early days, before the building of Iffley Lock about 1771 ; but that barges then proceeded down the upper stream at the Long Bridges just above the Gut, and passing through the Weirs, traversed what is now the backwater stream, which joins the main river at Kennington Railway Bridge. What is now the navigation, was in those days a side stream which simply supplied water for driving Iffley Mill and Boymill, and its volume was augmented by the side stream from the Cherwell, which was of more im portance and larger then, and also drove a Mill the site of which is well marked by the Kidney, which was the pool of the Mill. Even within the last fifty years this stream was larger than now but since the new mouth was made to the Cherwell, the old stream has been allowed to grow up; as its usefulness has passed away as an additional outlet for the waters of that river. The streams of the river above Iffley Mill have changed very much in vears gone by, as may be seen by the City boundary, which winds along a twisting little ditch which once was larger and more important than now, and we can hardly imagine how barges of seventy tons burden, could possibly navigate the crooked windings of the little backwater stream, which now runs down from the Weirs pool ; but there is no doubt that this was their usual route before the days of Iffley Lock. Previously to the Act of Parliament of 1866, barges paid each way a toll of is nd, to the Danbe family, who were the owners of the original navigation, as compensation for diverting the traffic through Iffley Lock, but after 1866 the Thames Con servancy bought up the rights for £500, and re-arranged the tolls. Lincoln College was not included in the compensation. By the Thames Navigation Act of 1771, the College received a moiety of the Tolls from the Lock, which in 1863 amounted to £57-4-9- less one-and-sixpence a week paid to the collector. The other moiety belonged to the Danbe family, and for this when the later Act was passed, they received the compensation mentioned. The Danbe family held the Mill at the beginning of the last century, as well as that at the Weirs, and during their tenure, an ancestor of the Author was millright at Iffley Mill for a number of years ; afterwards taking charge at the Weir's Mill over the meadows. In their time and during the tenure of the Collins' family, the right of catching Eels at the mill Weir was held by them, and Eel Bucks were set down with Pudgets, and a sluice drawn to allow the water to pass through; with the result that "enough Eels were caught to pay the rent." Thames Eels are a real luxury, but there do not seem so many now as in years gone by. About 1870, this old custom was stopped by the Thames Con servancy with their new Act; which the College seems not to have noticed until too late to claim their privileges, several of which were then lost. A prominent old Oxford citizen, the late John Towle, after wards became lessee of the Mill, but for the last 30 years it has been in the possession of Mr. Joe Wilson, a respected lay clerk of St. John's College, and schoolmaster of the village; who with his wife, lived in the Mill house, but owing to ill health, has lately sub-let the working part of the Mill. It was a Grist-mill in these later days, grinding Wheat, Barley, and other Grain for the Farmers around, but not dressing flour as it did in ancient days. It was probablv owing to some tailed Wheat which had been received and deposited on one of the floors of the Mill, that the fire oc curred ; as this often heats when put together, if at all damp, and will fire if not attended to and turned. On the day of the fire, ( May 20th, 1908,) both the lessee and the tenant had gone to the Agricultural Show at Abingdon, leaving the Mill closed down after mid-day. The lessee when returning, actually pointed out to a friend who was with him, his pretty home in the distance as they passed in the train after 6 o'clock, there were no signs of fire then, but in the City about 7 o'clock the news was hurriedly told him, "Iffley Mill's on fire," which he refused at first to be lieve, as he had seen it apparently safe so short a time before. The first intimation of the fire was given by a gentleman, why having paid toll, passed over the bridge. The Lassie who takes the small toll was quietly sitting at her old post within the The Ruins of Iffley Mill, May 21, 1908. porch as usual, when the gentleman rushed back with " Do you know you're on fire?" " I did not know it," she told us, " I hadn't even smelt fire." The Mill evidently was well alight, for in a few moments the flames broke through the roof, and in a short time the whole building was a huge furnace. Mrs Wilson, an invalid, -was safely removed and as much of the furniture as could be, was saved by the exertions of those who had quickly gathered round. When the fire brigade with their engine arrived, nothing could be done to save the Mill which was thoroughly gutted, although one front room of the house escaped. The lessee unfortunately was not insured, the insurance owing to a misunderstanding had been allowed to lapse, -when the Mill was sub-let. Although a sad loss to the tenants, the artistic tradition of the place is even greater than the monetary loss, and nothing is known at present whether the Mill will be rebuilt, or what will take its place. The burning of the Mill is not the first unfortunate fire at Iffley, for on October 12th, 1810, Admiral Nowell's house and property were destroyed, which was supposed to have been the act of an incendiary. Our frontispiece photographed about 1870, exhibits Iffley Mill in all its beauty, with the grand old trees which then surrounded it at their best ; since then, many of these having lived their lives have been swept down by winter storms, or removed because they had become unsafe. The mill itself also in those days was more picturesque than of late years, it looked more neglected, and its old red tiled roofs with the lichens which grew upon them, gave a richness of colour to the buildings that has been missing since; while the rusty weather-toned old shed which covered the outside wheel, and the timbers of the weir, all added to its beauty in an artistic way. Even the old water wheel itself was a picture, and the way it moved in those days was typical of the times, as it seemed to turn lazily round. " Watch it for a moment, it moves very slowly, every now and then, as though the task was nearly beyond its power, making a half stop, and then with a jerk going on again ; the water dripping all the time from the upper floats, adding to the music it makes, as the boards dip into the driving stream. A sluice half drawn in the weir by the side, is letting the water through '3 in a creamy fall over the camp-shedding, and with a swishing hum it breaks into more than one curling wave beyond. " A charming picture was formed one hard winter here by the ice, which had accumulated on the side of the weir, and the frozen wheel. Both -weir and wheel, were nearly hidden beneath an overhanging clustering mass of ice from the spray, while a quantity of long icicles hung down from above, where the water had been thrown up by the Mill wheel. The running stream had a deeper colour by contrast with the ice, and the sun shining lit up the whole scene and gave the crystal masses the brilliancy of diamonds. The scene is changed to-day, the mill walls stand up gaunt and ruined, with charred beams half fallen and resting on debris below; the roofs are fallen in, leaving the chimneys intact, rising above the white walls, here and there blackened by the smoke which poured out from the windows during the fire. The old trees which once were the glory of the place have many of them gone, and their absence reveals the slate roof of a modern house peeping over the older mill, which seems incongruous and out of place with the ancient structure. The timbers of the weir now modernised and painted white intrude themselves too freely, while the swifter stream that runs through has swept away with its rush, the old bed of weeds -which once grew on the shallows by the end of the island, and added with the flowers among it, to the foreground of the scene. The toll-bridge has been in existence for many years, and this was proved by the fact that when the Thames Conservancy were putting in the posts for the new weir, quite a find of old money of various dates, both silver and copper, was discovered in the bed of the river below, which had evidently been dropped by passers by, at various times through the cracks of the bridge. Iffley Mill has for years been included in the curriculum of American visitors, some of whose remarks, at times, are very quaint, but on one occasion certainly they did not get it quite all their own way. "A very cantankerous party one day made their way over the little toll bridge, and when asked for the halfpence due, replied, "Pay a toll!, Pay a toll !, what for? to come over a little wooden bridge, we never heard of such an imposition ;" and then question after question followed until the patience of the M custodian was fairly exhausted. At last they went on, but had not "gone far when one of them running back asked; "And pray what do you do with the money you take ? The reply was, " We give it away in prizes to people who mind their own business. The river below the pool flowing through low-lying meads is not so pretty as at the Lock and Mill, yet is very pleasant with its marginal growth of willow and flag. In the early spring the meadow from which the view of the Mill is seen, is the home of the "Fritillary" or "Snake's Head," with its beautiful pendent blossoms, varying in colour in different specimens, from a bright purple with lighter spots and yellow petals, to those of a pure creamy hue without the slightest admixture of red. A few years ago these grew in thousands here ; so thick were they, that their numbers formed beds of bright color over the field, but since wild flowers have become fashionable, they have been ruthlessly torn up, even before the buds are fairly opened, by men who make a market of their beauty in the Oxford streets. It is not however these people who are most to blame, but their thoughtless patrons — many of whom boast a University standing — for were there no demand, the supply would cease, and " Fritillaries " would again bloom in their native fields, and again form a blaze of brilliant color against the green background of the tender grass. Even now at times these fields are rich with color where the masses of yellow King-cups grow with their roots in the marshy soil, while the ditches between are, in early spring bright with the pretty pink flowers of the Water Violet, whose stalks stand up out of the liquid element, which later on will be quite hidden in rank vegetation. There is a curious legend in respect to this meadow which is worth re-production : — It occurs in the Abingdon " Abbey Chronicle " of the ioth century, and from it we learn that in the time of Edmund there arose a controversy between the monks of Abingdon on the one side and the people of Oxfordshire on the other, about a certain meadow called Hen', belonging of right to the Church of Abingdon. Delays having occured in the settlement of the question, "a wise, and as it is pious to believe, a divinely inspired counsel was given to the servants of God who were anxious to hurry on the decision. On a day appointed, the monks rising early took a round dish, into which they put a handful of corn and placed in the midst a taper of a particular form and weight. When they had lighted this they committed the dish with its contents to the stream which flowed by the church, and some of the brethren followed in a little boat. And the dish went before them and pointed out as with a finger the boundary of that which by right belonged to the Monastery, turning now to this side, now to that, at one time it faithfully went before them on the right side, at another on the left until it came to the meadow which is called Beri, at which time the dish miraculously deserting the course of the Thames, swerved, and went round the meadow between the river and Giftelei, which in winter, and often in the summer, on account of the overflowing of the Thames is surrounded with water as if it were an island. And when the miracle was seen by those standing by and those men of Berkshire, as well as of Oxfordshire who had come to the spot, and by the monks also who had followed the candle, the said meadow was given up to the Monastery, the people crying Jus Abbendonise ! Jus Abbendoniae ! And great fear also, on account of the miracle came upon all those who had heard of it from that time down to the present, neither any king, earl, baron, or any other person, has dared in any way to claim this meadow against the Monastery. ' With the old monkish legend we close our story of Iffley Mill. Whether it will again rise from its ashes and continue its ancient history, or, whether like many other of the pretty spots on the Thames, it will be lost in some brand new building quite out of keeping with its hoary past, is not known. We lay these jottings before our readers in the hope they may help to keep in remem brance a charming old landmark of the river, which one by one are so fast passing away. New Book in Preparation, Profusely Illustrated. Oxford, Past and present, Old Cajtle Tower its Story for a Thousand Years. by Henry W. Taunt f.r.g.s, &c Photographer for many years to the Oxford Architectural and Historical Society and Author of the well-known Guides to the Thames &c, &c. This Book will embody all the best of a number of large collections of Oxford, into a Demy 4to volume of some 230 pages, ranging from A.D. 912 to the present time, and Illustrated by 200 to 300 Photographic Illustrations, including a number of full size plates as well as maps and plans &c. It will be ornamentally bound so as to form a charming gift book and the price to Subscribers will be One Guinea. Prospectus Free. May we be favoured ivitli your name as a Patron and Subscriber. Henry W. Taunt 3< P^iver to Nuneham apd ^bingdon, With Map, Guide and Illustrations. 8vo. One Shilling. ^Urfngtrxm, gUtcient croft |fctj?b#m, With Plan, Guide and Illustrations. 8vo. 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