YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

^>>>iij*' '*&& mi r

Fori 8, Wast, htbng

Buenos Ayrean Countryman
Mwfe/,-^ Sm£bh,,M&er &¦ G°Zmdaibjff&Z.>

TWO THOUSAND MILES' BIDE

THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES:
BEING AN ACCOUNT OP THE
NATTJEAL PRODUCTS OF THE COUNTBY,
AND HABITS OF THE PEOPLE;
WITH A HISTORICAL RETROSPECT OF
THE RIO DE LA PLATA, MONTE VIDEO,
AND CORRIENTES.

By WILLIAM Mac CANN,
AUTHOB OF THE "PBTESENT POSITION OP AFFAIBS ON THE RlVEE PLATE.'

" A truthful melange of scenes and circumstances relating to a country personally un
known to the reader, is a mental revel in which he cannot but delight." — G. M.

itit^ Illustrations.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON:
SMITH, ELDER & CO., 65, CORNHILL.
SMITH, TAYLOR, & CO., BOMBAY.
1853.

The Author of this Work reserves the right of authorizing a
Translation of it.

Londun :
Pnnted by Stewabt & Murbat;
Old Bailev.

ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II.

Buenos Aires Countryman . . . Frontispiece.
Supper in a Eancho . . .to face page 47
Crossing a River ... „ S5

CONTENTS OF VOL II.

CHAPTER I.
The author publicly alluded to— Government, character, and habits
of General Eos as— Interview and conversation with him and his
daughter, Dona Manuelita — Muleteers and bullock-drivers—
Village and church of Lujan— Image of the Virgin, and offerings
to the shrine— Village of Areco and River Arrecifes— Plains over
grown with gigantic thistles— City of San Nicolas de los Arroyes—
Aversion ofthe natives to labour on the water— Trade and popu
lation—Vast unexplored territory— Military outposts and huts—
Estancia of Mr. Armstrong— Cultivation of flax— Soldiers and
their wives — Outpost duty and Indian plunderers — Rosario, its
population and industry— Primitive corn-mills— Prosperity ofthe.
town  Franciscan convent of San Lorenzo, and hospitahty of
the brethren— Primitive habits of a native family— Politeness in
a hut— Head-dresses of spiders'-webs— Phosphoric insect— A
wooded plain  page I
CHAPTER II.
Situation of Sante Fe— Its trade, its buildings, and its streets —
Hospitality of Don Jose Amanebar— Introduction to the Governor
"Brigadier-General Don Pascuel— Poetical customs— Vegetable
produce— Fondness for bathing— Variety of races— Siesta— Ride
through the country— Mode of transporting horses across the

VI CONTENTS.
river— Medicinal properties of a fruit— Departure for Cordova-
Difficulties of the journey— Sauce— Degraded state of the in
habitants—Indian hunters— Mode of hunting— Edible species of
thistle— Quebracho Herrado— Scarcity of water— Tio—Chucha—
Locusts— Biscachas — Rapid - growing corn — Cordova — Trees
growing there —Fire-flies —Village of Ranchos— Insects found-
Country round Cordova— Site ofthe city— Its churches, univer
sity, and promenade— Climate and scenery— Feeling of the
people towards foreigners— Journey from Cordova— Sleeping-
places— Halt in the plain— Return to Santa Fe  page 30

CHAPTER III.
Description of Parana— Its productions and climate —Habits and
diseases of the people— Early history— Its governors— Commer
cial capabilities of the province of Entre Rios —Doubtful titles
to land— Natural productions — Temperature and quantity of rain
— Locusts — Journey from Parana— Trees— Fording a river-
Primitive post-house and its inhabitants— Mode of striking a
light— Habits of the people— Influence of civilization upon man
—Crossing a river— Description of Concordia and Salta— Cascade
of Salta — Grande and scenery near— Unsuccessful attempt to
colonize this district— Englis^ property —Description of Uruguay
—Herds of unmarked cattle and their wOdness —Troops of militia
—Punishment of theft— Rent of land— Gualeguay Chu— Its in
habitants and buildings— Ostrich nest— Gualeguay— British set
tlements—Journey from Gualeguay— Carpinchas— Mode of con
veying luggage across a river in a balsa — Harassing journey
across the Island Lecheguanas —Arrival at Buenos Ayres. . . . 58
CHAPTER IV.
First British traders and settlers— English society— Intercourse
with the native population— Probable influence of the descend
ants of English settlers— Educational and religious institutions

CONTENTS. vii
of the EngUsh -German Church _ Scotch settlers at Monte
Grande, their churches and schools -Educational decree, and its
injurious consequences— British hospital and libraries— English
and Scotch dissenters— American Methodists— Protestant ceme-
tei7  page 89

HISTORICAL RETROSPECT OF THE
ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
CHAPTER I.
Anticipations of the British respecting Spanish colonies— Colonial
policy of Spain— Choice of officials — Two classes of citizens—
Colonies not qualified for self-government— British invasion of
Buenos Ayres— Provinces under the Viceroy of Buenos Ayres—
Power of the viceroy— The proximate cause of revolution—
Functions of the Cabildo— Meeting of the Cabildo, and its cor
respondence with the viceroy— First popular outbreak— Military
aid called in— General congress siimmoned— Change of govern
ment moved and carried— Deputation to the viceroy— His change
of office proclaimed— Installation of the Junta — Discontent of
the people— Dissolution of the Junta— Demands of the people
—New governing body elected  115
CHAPTER II.
Errors of the Junta— Progress towards independence— First Con
stituent General Assembly— Sovereign Congress of the United
Provinces — Declaration of Independence — The Directory —
Changes in the Government — " Cabildo Abierto" — Mode of
announcing a government — House of Representatives first

V1H CONTENTS.
chosen— Treaty with Great Britain— Rivadavia, his efforts and
errors— English loan— War with Brazils— Insurrection of Gene
ral Lavalle— Execution of Dorrego— Defeat of Lavalle by Rosas
—Assassination of Maza— List of the Governors of Buenos
Ayres— General history of the provinces resumed— Congress at
Buenos Ayres— Efforts to frame a constitution— Questions at
issue— Answers of the various provinces— Origin of the terms
Unitarians and Federals, and of the present Argentine Con
federation  page 149

CHAPTER III.
General Rosas— His correspondence with the Sala— Honours con
ferred on him — Decree clothing him with absolute power—
Review of his position— Connection of the history with Monte
Video  170

CHAPTER IT.
Early history of the Banda Oriental— Capture of Monte Video by
the British— Struggle for independence— Civil war with Artigas
—Union with the empire of Brazil— Subsequent revolt and suc
cess of the patriots  186

CHAPTER V.
Constitution— Civil strife— War with Buenos Ayres— Ofier of medi
ation by Great Britain— Anglo-French intervention— Blockade of
Buenos Ayres— Expedition up the River Parana— Battle of
Obligado— Convoy reaches Corrientes— Battle of San Lorenzo-
Steam fleet return to the River Plate — Mission of Lord
Howden— Friendly relations established between England and
Rosas  # 212

CONTENTS. ix

CHAPTER VI.
Brazil becomes a principal in the contest— French motives— For
titude of Monte Video— Urquiza defeats Rosas and invades
Buenos Ayres— Battle of Caseros— Defeat and flight of Rosas—
The spirit of his Government— Urquiza's triumphant entry into
Buenos Ayres— Appointed Commander-in-Chief of the Argen
tine Confederation— The spirit of his Government— The Buenos
Ayreans revolt, and disclaim his authority— War between Ur
quiza and Buenos Ayres  page 249

CHAPTER VII.
Province of Corrientes— Its form of government— War with Rosas
—Female troops— Confiscation of property— Habits ofthe people
—Foreigners— Natural productions of the soil— Monetary affairs
-Religion  .. 274

CHAPTER VIII.
The rivers naturally separate the provinces— Policy of Great
Britain— The Banda Oriental— Importance of free access to
her capital— English church in Monte Video— Revenue of
the Argentine Provinces— English bondholders— Futility of a
Congress— Question of education — Commerce demands cau
tion  389

CONTENTS.

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX A.
Brazilian Treaty  page 305
APPENDIX B.
Treaty between the Argentine Provinces and Paraguay  313
APPENDIX C.
Treaty of Alliance between Brazil and the Oriental Republic. . 317

TWO THOUSAND MILES'- RIDE

THE ARGENTINE PROYINCES.

CHAPTER I.
The author publicly alluded to — Government, character, and
habits of General Rosas — Interview and conversation with
him and his daughter, Dona Manuelita— Muleteers and bul
lock-drivers — Village and church of Lujan — Image of the
Virgin, and offerings to the shrine — Village of Areco and
River Arrecifes — Plains overgrown with gigantic thistles —
City of San Nicolas de los Arroyes— Aversion ofthe natives
to labour on the water — Trade and population — Vast unex
plored territory — Military outposts and huts— Estancia of Mr.
Armstrong— Cultivation of flax — Soldiers and their wives —
Outpost duty and Indian plunderers— Rosario, its population
and industry — Primitive corn-mills — Prosperity of the town
— Franciscan convent of San Lorenzo, and hospitality of the
brethren — Primitive habits of a native family — Politeness in
a hut — Head-dresses of spiders'-webs — Phosphoric insect — A
wooded plain.
I returned to Buenos Ayres, at the termination of
my first journey, just as Lord Howden, the British
VOL. II. B

2 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
ambassador, had arrived from England, to offer
terms of mediation with the government. Unfor
tunately his mission proved a failure, and after a
short residence, he sailed for Rio de Janeiro. Upon
his departure, the public mind was agitated with
conjectures of the probable causes and consequences
of this result. At such times, shadows are regarded
as substances, and molehills magnified into moun
tains ; and it occurred to one of the speakers during
a debate in the Sala (House of Representatives), to
allude to my journey as having been undertaken at
the instance of the British government for the pur
pose of collecting information for the guidance of
Lord Howden. This rumour, equally groundless
and ridiculous, was very annoying, and rendered me
uneasy as to my intended journey northward ; for
the speech of this sapient senator appearing in the
Gaceta, I came to be regarded as a sort of spy, and
under such circumstances it did not seem prudent
to venture into the distant provinces.
I was on the point of abandoning all my long-
cherished views, when General Rosas, hearing of
my predicament, invited me to visit him at his
country-residence; and as this unexpected recog
nition opened a prospect of safely prosecuting my
journey, I gladly availed myself of his invitation.
The tide of fortune has since turned against Rosas,
but I see no reason to alter the account which I
wrote at the time, of the man who so lon°- ruled as

/ _ GENERAL ROSAS AND HIS DAUCHTER. 3
dictator of the Argentine Republic. It is not my
office either to accuse or to defend the government
of General Rosas ; but since his fall, I have felt it
a duty to record the opinions I had formed, and
now conscientiously hold, of his character and
actions. I do so with the more confidence, as
I feel assured that the events now taking place
in the Argentine Provinces will throw new light
upon the rule of Rosas, which can only be fairly
judged of by those who are acquainted with the
country and people he governed.
Upon the occasion of my first visit to his resi
dence, I found assembled under the colonnade and on
the lawn, several persons, of both sexes, waiting for
the despatch of business. Por all who appealed to
General Rosas in an extra-judicial character, his
daughter Dona Manuelita was the universal inter
cessor. Questions of moment to individuals, involving
confiscation, banishment, and even death, were thus
placed in her hands, as tbe last hope of the unfor
tunate. In the excellence of her disposition, and its
benign influence over her father, she was to him,
in many respects, what the Empress Josephine was
to Napoleon.
The household of General Rosas retained many
characteristics of mediaeval habits. Dinner was
provided daily for all who chose to partake of that
meal, whether visitors or strangers : all comers were
welcome. His daughter presided, and two or three

4 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
buffoons (one a North American) amused the
guests with their wit and humour. General Rosas
seldom joined the party, but when he did, his
appearance was the signal for simultaneous fun
and merriment ; this being the season when his
mind relaxed from the cares of government: for
he seldom partook of more than one meal a day.
His life was a scene of uninterrupted labour : he
personally investigated the most minute affairs of
state, leaving nothing to be done by others which it
was possible for himself to perform. His nights
were usually spent at the desk; towards morning
he took his single meal, and then retired to
rest. Dona Manuelita told me that her bitterest
thoughts were caused by fears that her father was
shortening his life by excessive application to
business. General Rosas is descended from an old Spanish
family ; his father was a colonel in the army, and
he himself was trained to arms from early life. His
natural drollery, and fondness for practical jokes,
made him very popular with the common soldiers ;
and his personal influence over the militia, when
only a subaltern, was very considerable. In his
character of a country gentleman he gained the
hearts of the peasantry : he surpassed them all
in feats of activity and address, in tamino- wild
horses, and throwing the lasso ; and his manage
ment of an estancia was excellent. Throughout

/ _ PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF ROSAS. 5
his entire career, his administrative skill, and
his art of ingratiating himself with his associates,
obtaining their confidence and securing implicit
obedience from all under his control, have been
very remarkable.
My first interview with General Rosas was in
one of the avenues in his pleasure-grounds, where,
under the shade of willows, we walked for several
hours ; after sunset he conducted me to an arbour,
where he revived the interminable subject of poli
ties. On this occasion he wore a sailor's jacket, with
blue trousers and cap, and carried a long crooked
stick in his hand. His handsome ruddy counten
ance, and portly aspect (he is of sanguineous tem
perament), gave him the appearance of an English
country gentleman. He is in height about five
feet ten inches, and his age is now fifty-nine
years. In referring to the motto, which was worn by all
citizens, " Viva la Confederacion Argentina ! Mueran
los Salvages Unitarios !" ( " Live the Argentine
Confederation ! Death to the Savage Unitarians ! "),
he explained to me that he had adopted it contrary
to the opinions of men of high standing, but that
on occasions of popular excitement it had been the
means of saving many lives — it was a token of
brotherhood, he explained ; illustrating it very for
cibly by embracing me. The word death was
only meant to express a wish that the Unitarians,

6 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
as a political party, in opposition to the govern
ment, should be destroyed. Many Unitarians, it was
true, had been executed ; but only because twenty
drops of blood shed at a proper moment might
save the spilling of twenty thousand. He did not
desire, he said, to be thought a saint ; neither did
he wish to be spoken ill of, nor praised.
Alluding to my desire to travel through the
provinces, and to judge for myself of the state of
the country, he stated that all he wanted — all the
country wanted — was that the real truth should be
told. He was a man of no secrets ; he spoke out in
the face of the world : and here he proudly drew
himself up erect, pushing his cap high off his fore
head, as if meaning to indicate by this significant
action " I defy the world."
Reverting to the intervention of Lord Howden,
Rosas expressed his astonishment that England
should have so far forgotten her own true interest,
as to join hand in hand with France in a crusade
against the Argentine Republic; and dwelt upon
the stronger sympathies of the people for English
men than for the French. He explained that the
acknowledgment of the independence of the re
public by Great Britain fifteen years previous to
its recognition by France, was an act which had
inspired in this people a grateful feeling towards
England; and observed that the character of the
English was more open, and their habits more

/ -. OPINIONS OF ROSAS. 7
moral, than those of the French. He then ex
patiated on the advantages which the country
afforded for the emigration of the surplus popula
tion of Great Britain ; and spoke of the favourable
situation in which immigrants were placed by the
treaty of 1825: that, in fact, they enjoyed greater
advantages than the natives.
In referring to the mission of Mr. Hood, he ob
served that the cabinet of London said " they did
not entertain any interested or selfish views," whereas
the French had omitted the word selfish, which he
considered very significant : France having ulterior
designs, on behalf of certain members of her royal
family, in connection with these countries. All that
these infant Republics required, he observed, was
commercial intercourse with some strong and power
ful nation like Great Britain; which, in return
for the benefits she would derive from trade, would
afford them the benefit of her moral influence. They
wanted this, and no more: they wanted nothing
which would savour of a protectorate, nor detract
one iota from their liberty and national independence :
of which they were very jealous, and would not
relinquish the least atom. This sentiment he for
cibly expressed both in language and action ; at the
conclusion of the sentence, pressing together the
thumb and forefinger of his right hand, as if hold
ing a hair between the nails, and as if to say, " Not
even so much as that ! "

O THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
As we loitered through the grounds, he remarked
upon the improvements then making under our
eyes : it might be asked, he said, why he built such a
house on such a spot ? He had built it for the pur
pose of contending against two great obstacles : the
building was begun during the French blockade ; as
the people were then in a state of great excitement,
he wished to calm down public opinion by a demon
stration of confidence in a settled future ; and by
erecting his house on such an unfavourable site, he
wished to give his countrymen an example of what
could be done in overcoming obstacles, when there
existed the will to do so. Adverting to my ap
prehensions as to personal safety during my in
tended journey to the north, he recognized them
as being very natural, since I proposed visiting
districts where English troops had made war on
the country, and where some indignation towards
foreigners might be supposed to exist ; but he
assured me that no foreigner would be insulted, or
in any way molested, the government having given
strict orders on this point. Referring to the re
presentative who had looked upon my researches
with suspicion, he said he was in some measure glad
of the occurrence, as it tended to prove that the
members of the Sala had courage to say what they
thought, so long as they did not attack private
character. He commented largely on this subject
in allusion to the reports that there was no liberty

/ _ GENERAL ROSAS AND HIS DAUGHTER. 9
of speech in the House of Representatives. And,
besides, he laughingly added, if only one or two
have spoken against you, and all the rest have
not, you had the majority in your favour. If I
still resolved to take a gallop through the country
of one or two thousand miles (which he neither
recommended nor discouraged), he offered me what
ever facilities I might desire ; and, in granting them,
he observed he was only doing me common jus
tice, for he had given similar facilities to other
parties. The address of General Rosas was so easy and
familiar, that he at once made his visitors feel per
fectly at their ease ; and the facility and tact with
which he touched upon lighter topics, insensibly
won the confidence of those around him : the most
prejudiced stranger, upon leaving his presence, must
have felt that intercourse with such a man was unre
strained and agreeable. In recounting various inci
dents of his early life, he told me his education had
scarcely cost his parents a hundred dollars, for he
only went to school for one year ; and his master
was accustomed to say to him, "Don Juan, you need
not trouble yourself about books : learn to write a
good hand ; for your life will be spent on an estancia
(cattle farm) : don't tease yourself about learning."
His daughter, who possesses great powers of
fascination, had recourse to many captivating arts
to please her visitors and gain their confidence.

10 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
Upon one occasion of my visiting the house, her
father being occupied, she at once mounted her
horse and galloped with me through the pleasure-
grounds. She is a first-rate equestrian, and so
frequently outstripped me, that my duty as a cava
lier, of fanning the musquitoes from her neck
and arms, was too often neglected. In the
evening we were joined by her father, who con
tinued to talk politics until midnight ; while walk
ing in the corridor of the patio, or court, she
came running towards him, and, putting her arms
playfully around his neck, upbraided him for
leaving her alone, and for remaining so late in
the cold night air. An equerry was then ordered
to accompany me to town ; and, before mounting,
she ran for a cloak of her father's, which she
insisted I should wear to keep myself warm, the
night threatening a pampero.
I record these traits of character with more satis-
' faction now (without wishing to make them pass
for more than their worth) in the hope they may
tend to dispel some portion of the thick cloud of
prejudice which darkens the reputation of General
Rosas and his daughter in their adversity.
Being assured of my personal safety from insult
or molestation, I made arrangements for my jour
ney northward ; these, however, did not include a
tropilla, as on this route I preferred to depend upon
the post-houses, which furnish horses, and supply a

/ - FERTILE LANDSCAPE. 11
postilion, or mounted guide, who takes charge of
the horses, and carries the traveller's valise.
Upon leaving Buenos Ayres by the north road,
accompanied by my friend, Mr. William Barton,
we passed through unenclosed patches of wheat
and Indian corn ; the frequent appearance of oxen
ploughing, and herds of cattle and flocks of
sheep grazing in the richest pastures, afforded
a pleasing evidence of agricultural and pastoral
industry in this locality. The meadows presented
the appearance of a richly embroidered carpet ;
flowers of summer in endless variety painted the
landscape in varied colours, and filled the air
with perfume. In contrast to this picture, how
ever, we soon came upon a vast extent of country
covered with wild mustard and gigantic thistles.
We soon reached the village of Moron with its
little church ; and about noon halted at a post-
house, where we could procure no other refresh
ments than hard-boiled eggs and a draught of water.
In the evening we passed a troop of muleteers
who were returning homewards, a distance of six
hundred miles. Their custom at night is to unload
all the mules, placing their burdens in a large
circle, within which they allow the animals to graze.
A large fire is kindled, at which the drivers roast
their beef; and around it they sleep. We had
scarcely passed this troop of muleteers when we
approached a caravan of bullock-waggons resting

12 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
for the night : a driver was in the act of slaughter-
ing a cow for supper, while others were relieving
the oxen from their traces, and allowing them to
feed in the luxuriant grass.
A little after sunset we entered the village of Lujan,
and next morning made a visit to the church, where
the priest was celebrating mass : a few women, with
some muleteers and waggoners, formed the congre
gation. This edifice contains a celebrated image of
the " Virgin," respecting which there is the following
tradition : — Two images had been sent overland from
Buenos Ayres to Chile ; the cart conveying one of
them met with some accidents on the road, and on
approaching the stream at Lujan, the waggon again
broke down. This occurrence was considered very
ominous, and was supposed to indicate that the image
objected to cross the stream; it was therefore re
solved to build a church on the bank of the rivulet,
to propitiate the Virgin. In due time a magnificent
edifice was erected, costing 70,000 silver dollars, and
dedicated to the Virgin. Ever since, offerings have
poured in from all parts of the country : these partly
consist of models in gold or silver, of arms, hands,
and other members ; emblems of the benefits be
lieved to have been conferred on her votaries.
The image of the Virgin stands in the centre
of the high altar, with her face towards the nave
of the church ; but when an offering is about to be
presented, the officiating priest turns the imao-e round

I ^ THE VIRGIN OF LUJAN. 13
to the shrine, a small chamber behind the altar,
that the Virgin may be supposed to see both the
devotee and the gifts. The favourite offerings of
the poor, are candles to be burned in honour of the
Virgin. Forty or fifty endowed chaplaincies are
connected with this church ; and the revenue
derivable from the pious offerings of the faithful,
is much greater than that received by the cathedral
of Buenos Ayres.
After breakfast we mounted, and crossing a rude
wooden bridge over the river, entered upon a by
road. In the afternoon our postilion (who, it subse
quently appeared, did not know the right direction)
halted at an agreeable-looking residence, which he
announced as the post-house. The inmates, however,
at once undeceived us ; at the same time they kindly
requested we would dismount and rest, and set be
fore us some roast beef. Our host also furnished
us with fresh horses to continue the journey ; and he
was so proud of his horses, that to show us what
they could do, he sent his little son as our guide,
charging him to keep up at a rapid pace. Faith
ful to his instructions, the little fellow led us, at
hunting speed, through grassy meadows and leagues
of thistles, affording pasturage for herds of cattle
and flocks of sheep, until we reached Areco, a dis-
rance of seven leagues ; which we accomplished in
less than an hour and a half.
Areco is a declining village, containing a church ;

14 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
the number of empty houses and neglected fences
affording abundant evidence of its former prosperity.
General Beresford and his staff were detained here,
as prisoners, in the year 1806.
After leaving the village, we crossed the river,
which at this season of the year is fordable ; at other
seasons, travellers cross in a ferry-boat, the horses
swimming: over. At noon we reached the house
of a prosperous and industrious family, where our
hostess pressed us to postpone our departure till
the cool of the evening, and in the meantime pro
posed that we should take our dinner and a siesta:
throughout the summer months the whole popula
tion of these countries retire to sleep for two or
three hours during the heat of the day. We
thankfully accepted her kind invitation ; and having
abundantly refreshed ourselves with food and sleep,
journeyed onwards in the pleasant air of evening.
A little before sunset we crossed the river Arrecifes
in a ferry-boat, and swam our horses over. This
stream is very deep and rapid, but narrow ; and
from the favourable nature of the banks, a bridge
of timber might be thrown across, for a small sum.
Next evening we entered San Nicolas ; close
to the city we passed the encampment of General
Mancilla. In reviewing the past four days' journey,
I may briefly state that the first day's travel was
agreeable ; the prevalence of agriculture, and the
general appearance of industry, giving a smilino-

/ _ PLAINS OF GIGANTIC THISTLES. 15
aspect to the scene. The grounds on our right
towards the Parana, were clearly seen to be ele
vated ; but on the left were spread out endless and
monotonous plains.
At Lujan we turned off the main road. For
the last three days, our way, with very brief inter
vals, lay through plains overgrown with enor
mous thistles, from three to eight feet high ; the
path through them being occasionally so narrow
that but one horse could pass abreast. These
gigantic weeds are very annoying to both horse and
rider : the poor people usually protect their limbs
with a sheepskin suspended from the pommel of
the saddle, while the better classes of experienced
travellers wear a covering of leather; but not
being provided with either, I was greatly incom
moded. There are three varieties of these thistles,
each indicating a peculiar quality of the soil. At
a distance, they had sometimes the appearance
of a vast plain " when wheat is green " ; at
others they assumed the hues of ripe and " wavy
corn." The land here undulates much more considerably
than in the south, but owing to the very gradual
ascent of its highest parts, and the general unifor
mity of surface, nothing that deserves to be deno
minated a hill can be descried ; although we may
have ascended a thousand feet from the adjoining
plain, and again descended to the former level. No

16 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
trees, except occasionally a solitary ombu, or a small
plantation, were to be seen.
The country in this direction is also superior to
the south, being much better watered ; the popula
tion is likewise more numerous. Paraguay being
the centre of attraction when the country was first
discovered, the Spaniards gradually spread them
selves in this direction, erecting villages and build
ing churches. Our route lay no great distance from
Obligado, where, during the recent blockades, the
French and English fleets attacked the batteries and
fire-ships belonging to this government, for the pur
pose of forcing a passage upwards to Corrientes ;
and although hundreds of the natives lost life or
limb in that ill-judged warfare, we were received
most kindly.
The city of San Nicolas de los Arroyes (St. Nicolas
of the rivulets) is sixty-five leagues from Buenos
Ayres, and is the largest city in the province, the
capital excepted. It is most favourably situated for
commerce, and at no very distant period will probably
possess a flourishing trade. The streets cross at right
angles ; the footpaths are well paved with brick, and
lighted with lamps at night. The houses are but one
story high, and flat-roofed. The church stands in the
square, haying a large wooden cross erected imme
diately opposite the door. Close to the church is the
barrack, its entrance being guarded by two pieces
of artillery. The police of the town is well regu-

/ « CITY OF SAN NICHOLAS. 17
lated, and there are two schools for boys, and
several for girls. The only foreign residents are
some Italians and a few Basques. The town does
not contain any accommodation for travellers; but
our postillion, after some inquiry, took us to a place
where we were treated with civility and kindness.
We observed only one or two wholesale stores.
The intercourse with Buenos Ayres is either by
water or by bullock waggons ; the vessels trading
here are the property of Italians, the natives
being so averse to aquatic pursuits that there are
no craft belonging to the town : a few cumbrous
boats are used merely to convey fire-wood from the
opposite islands. There were two small schooners
in port, alongside the bank, discharging cargoes from
Monte Video ; the greater part being British goods
from Leeds and Manchester.
The town covers a very large space, nearly one-
half of which appears to be set apart with well-
stocked fruit gardens ; and the suburbs are agree
ably shaded with trees. The population is estimated
at 8,000, and the inhabitants appear to spend al
most all their time in the open air : in whatever
direction I went, women and children were to be
seen walking or indolently reclining under the shade
of their vines and fig-trees. The city is pleasantly
situated on a high bank of the Parana, and the
view across the river and towards the Entre Rios
shores is extensive and agreeable.
VOL. II. C

18 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
The frontier is at no greater distance than about
twenty leagues ; beyond which there is a vast and
unexplored territory possessed by Indians, whose
villages, however, are so remote as to be little
known to the Spaniards. All this tract of fertile
soil might at once be brought into profitable use,
if the uninterrupted navigation of the Parana were
secured and the population were sufficiently dense.
About two years ago a large body of Indians made
an assault upon the pasture lands of these parts,
sweeping away a great quantity of cattle and horses.
Since then a force of about seventeen hundred men
has been detached at various points, as a precaution
against future inroads.
At San Nicolas, I had the good fortune to find
Senor Don Alvario de Alsogaray, whom I had pre
viously seen at the house of General Rosas ; and to
whom I am indebted for valuable information re
specting both my journey and the country. He was
on his way to join General Manzilla, at Sante Fe.
We left San Nicolas early on the morning of the
29th November, and presently crossed the Arroya
del Medio, entering the province of Santa Fe.
After a hard gallop of ten leagues, we made a halt
at a military outpost, where the men were taking
their siesta under the shade of an ombu-tree. One
who appeared to have charge of the party, invited
us to dismount, and within a few minutes they
kindled a fire of sticks, boiled water and sup-

THE ENGLISH ESTANCIA. 19
plied us with mate ; our seats being the skuljs of
oxen. Some of the huts did not so much as
afford shelter, and appeared only intended for the
common decency of the women ; the men sleep in
the open air. Don Pedro happening to complain
of his horse and also of the postilion who had led
us wrong, they insisted upon giving us fresh horses
and a guide, who should take us direct to an
estancia the property of Mr. Thomas Armstrong,
of Buenos Ayres ; and in less than an hour we
reached our destination.
The house was occupied by Don Prudencio
Arnold, the commandante of the district, son of
a North American, who gave us a hospitable
reception. This property is called the English
estancia; and is judged to be one of the finest in
the province ; although, owing to the wars, it was
not stocked. It contains nearly sixty thousand Eng
lish acres ; its soil is extremely fertile and every
inch ready for the plough ; the whole being well
watered at all seasons. Flax is cultivated here, but
only for the sake of obtaining seed for medicinal
purposes: the people do not appear to be aware
of the value of the fibre, and therefore allow it to
go to waste. The country all around undulates
very considerably, but although the house is placed
upon the crest of one of those billows of land, the
view is most dreary ; the eye in sweeping the hori
zon sees nothing to indicate the presence or industry

20 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
of man : neither trees nor cattle, only a wretched
hut or two, may be discerned.
In the cool of the evening, I walked out to see
the soldiers breaking-in wild horses: the manner of
which has already been described. An army in
this country requires immense pasturage, as each
man is supposed to be supplied with three horses.
The huts for the troops are speedily erected, without
much pains or labour : a framework of sticks or
cane reeds, plastered with mud and thatched with
grass, suffices for shelter at night; the whole labour
of an encampment is performed in the open air.
The women were all busy cooking supper for their
male companions ; ox-horns being used for convey
ing water.
Through all these provinces it is customary for
every soldier, during a campaign, to be allowed a
woman as a companion, who regularly receives
rations ; and whenever a detachment of militia is
about to march from their native villages, the bustle
and excitement amongst the women and girls may
be easily imagined. The authorities allege that
such license is absolutely necessary to the well-
being of the army ; the men being less disposed
to desert when they have a female companion,
who attends to the washing, cooking and needle
work. Where there is a large army, ludicrous scenes are
of daily occurrence : a soldier will approach the

/_ soldiers' "wives." 21
commanding officer, with a somewhat embarrassed
manner, and complain that he cannot continue
with his present helpmate, exaggerating her faults
and shortcomings ; perhaps, before he has done
speaking, the woman appears, and complains of her
warrior mate ; the officer, well knowing that they
are tired of each other, consents to their separation,
and each is then at liberty to choose a more agreeable
companion : a formal act of separation is looked
upon as being decorous and respectable. But some
times a shorter course is taken, and the men, in
vulgar phrase, "swop" their quasi wives; the wo
men, of course, being a consenting party.
After the sun had set, a party of men returned
who had been on duty at outposts, and as scouts
along the Indian frontier. The sergeant came
into our apartments where we were sitting, to
report himself to the commandante ; when we ,
learned that they had been eight days absent,
but had not discovered any traces of the enemy.
These scouts needed no rations : they fed on
deer, armadillos, partridges, &c, which they killed ;
and slept in the open air, with their saddles for
pillows. They were supplied with swift horses, as
their duty was to return with all speed, and give
notice in case of danger. About two months pre
viously, a party of retreating Indians fell in with a
caravan of merchandize coming from Mendoza,
when they drove off 290 bullocks, 48 mules, 70

22 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
horses, and robbed two merchants of 800 doubloons,
(£2,500). Next morning we were well supplied with horses,
and having thanked the commandante for his polite
ness we departed for Rosario. We rode through luxu
riant pastures very thinly stocked, and during part
of the journey were beguiled with that beautiful
illusion, the mirage. As we approached Rosario we
passed through fields of wheat ready for the sickle,
and observed the people hoeing melons just then
breaking the ground. We entered the town during
siesta ; the houses and stores were consequently all
closed, and scarcely an individual to be seen in the
streets. Rosario is situated on a lofty bank of the Parana ;
the view across the river is similar in character
to that from San Nicolas, but not so rich in extent
or variety. The population is about four thousand.
In the square stood the church ; a modern build
ing intended, I suspect, to be a copy of the English
church at Buenos Ayres, but its Grecian character
is spoiled by the addition of a bell tower at each of
the front angles. There are two schools, one for
boys, the other for girls. The women are extremely
industrious: they spin wool very fine, and dye the
yarn with beautiful colours, by using roots and herbs
which they obtain on the plains, and also on the
islands of the Parana. Of this yarn they weave a
strong and close fabric, of which they make ponehos.

/ — ROSARIO. 23
For a superfine poncho they frequently obtain a sum
equal to 10/. sterling.
The river afforded many evidences of trade and
industry ; three schooners were hauled close to the
bank, discharging cargo and loading for Monte
Video. A troop of mules were grazing near,
destined to take their loads of merchandize to some
of the northern provinces ; and a caravan of bullock
waggons was loading for Cordova. Women were
engaged in washing wool in the river, at which they
can earn tenpence a day ; men were employed grind
ing corn in the open air with machinery rude in the
extreme : the millstones were about two feet in dia
meter, the crown-wheel had irregular cogs, and its
timbers were secured with large nails and strips of
hide. A pair of horses, galloping at the rate of
seven miles an hour, turned the wheel ; and a screen
of hides was so arranged as to protect the meal from
the wind and dust.
Rosario is the chief emporium for trade in the
province of Santa Fe ; it is the port through wliich
the provinces of Mendoza, Cordova, San Luis, and
several others, must always conduct their foreign
trade; and until the river is navigated by steam
beyond Paraguay, the northern provinces must
receive their supplies through this port. Its favour
able position, as well as the immense extent of fertile
soil to which the inhabitants have access, will always
make them a prosperous people, so long as they are

24 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
industrious. Next to Monte Video, Rosario is des
tined to be the most rising port in this part of
Spanish America; and whenever the capital and
enterprise of the country shall become directed to
the construction of railroads, their first act will be to
lay down a railway from this town to the Rio Cuarto,
with branches to San Luis and Cordova. The only
foreigners are a few Italians, principally mechanics
and keepers of pulperias, and one German, but not
a single British subject. The hospitality and intel
ligence of Don Antonio Berdier, rendered our stay
here very agreeable.
After a ride of about three hours we reached
the Franciscan convent of San Lorenzo, and dis
mounting at the outer gate, were invited into the
kitchen. The cook and his assistants were about to
supply a forenoon repast to the brothers; and as
they served up nine or ten messes on plates, which
were conveyed to the refectory, I judged that there
were not more than about ten resident members of
the fraternity. The fire-place was wide and lofty,
similar to what is met with in the rural districts of
Ireland ; and the fire was placed upon a broad hob
of bricks furnished with an abundant supply of pots
and pans.
The Prior, a venerable and gray-headed old man,
soon after made his appearance, and asked us who
we were and where we were going; with other
familiar questions. We informed him that we were

/ — CONVENT OF SAN LORENZO. 25
travelling to Santa Fe, and sought his permission
to take our siesta and pass the heat of the day with
in the walls of the convent. He gave us welcome,
and calling one of the brothers, desired him to see
that our wants were supplied. We were then con
ducted into the refectory, where we were served
with a very grateful repast, and a liberal supply of
good Spanish wine. The refectory was a long
arched room dimly lighted ; about the centre was a
reading-desk, elevated, and projecting from the wall ;
a line of tables on each side extended the full length
of the apartment, capable of accommodating about
one hundred and fifty guests. There were some
paintings of saints and scripture subjects at either
end. The good brother waited on us himself; his
mariners were frank and agreeable. Our meal being
finished, we were conducted by another member of
the fraternity, through a long corridor which opened
into a quadrangle planted with fruit-trees ; round
two sides of which were cloisters, with the cells of the
monks. Into one of these cells we were shown ; it
contained bedsteads with clean sheets and mat
tresses, upon which we enjoyed our siesta. After our
sleep, the same brother waited on us, with mate and
cigars ; he then showed us the church, a plain build
ing with a cupola and lanthorn, in good repair.
This convent is situated close to the River Parana,
which supplies the brotherhood with abundance
of fish ; their poultry-yards are well stocked with

26 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
domestic fowls, and meat for their larder can be had
for asking. They told us that the convent had been
established about fifty years ; but owing to the war,
and their unpopularity with the mass of the people,
they had not prospered : the walls and fences were
in a ruinous state. The fraternity, with one ex
ception, are old Spaniards.
Having made the customary offering to San
Lorenzo, in return for the friendly hospitality
we received, we departed well pleased with the
courteous reception we had met with. In the
neighbourhood of the convent there were forty or
fifty ranchos.
Before sunset, we reached the estancia of Colonel
Santa Colona, where we stopped for the night; de
parting early in the morning, having a ride of
twenty leagues before us. The view towards the
river was for the first time enlivened by the ap
pearance of timber trees, and as we proceeded, the
country seemed as if it had been thinly and irre
gularly planted with hawthorn bushes. About noon
we halted to change horses at a post-house. The
family appeared to retain the habits of the early
settlers ; all the members being seated under the
trees, and one of the daughters employed in
spinning wool, with the distaff. A lad drew water
from the well, with two large ox-horns, while an
other handed us a silver tankard, from which to
drink. The men wore silver dollars in lieu of brass

/ - SPINNING THREAD FROM SPIDERS' WEB. 27
buttons to fasten their clothes : upon some I ob
served as many as twelve.
A little before sunset, we reached a post-house
where we resolved to stay that night ; an old
woman cordially consented to our remaining, with
as much grace and politeness as if she were the
mistress of a palace. She was seated under a shed,
adjoining a small hut, shaded by ombu-trees.
The place had quite the appearance of a her
mitage, being enclosed in a wood, on the bank of a
river ; and upon inspecting the dwelling with its
accessories, I thought that Diogenes himself could
not have desired a less artificial residence. I enjoyed
a most refreshing ablution in a wooden trough from
which chickens were drinking, and made my toilet :
none but a wayfarer can appreciate the enjoyment
afforded by exchanging dry for wet garments, after
a ride of twenty leagues under a burning sun. Upon
looking up towards the clear blue sky, I perceived
that an immense web had been spun by spiders,
forming a sort of canopy, and extending a consider
able distance from the top of one tree to another.
From these webs the women spin a fine silk-like
thread, of which they make a fillet for their heads.
While we were sitting at supper, a small snake
crawled over the foot of one of the lads, who im
mediately gave the alarm ; but it rapidly disap
peared. Shortly afterj iny attention was attracted
to a phosphoric light on the breast of one of the

28 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
lads.; it proved to proceed from a winged insect,
about three quarters of an inch long, but very thick,
which emitted a strong light from its eyes, similar in'
colour to that of the fire-fly. Wherever it went, it
had the benefit of its own light : reminding me of
the good and wise, who cannot conceal the lustre
which is always diffused from their own minds.
After supper we all sought repose under the tree :
Don Pedro * retired to one side of the stem, while
I lay down on the other; and the young woman,
our cheerful and merry cook, slept soundly under the
same friendly shade. An old man and the boys went
to a more distant point; and, I believe, the old lady
took possession of the hut. The noise of parrots
from the adjoining wood aroused us at an early hour
next morning, and we were soon on the road to
Santa Fe.
Our way led through a well-wooded plain, studded
with a variety of trees, many of them covered
with blossoms ; the greater number appeared to be
small and stunted in their growth, few being so
much as fifteen inches in diameter; but of a shape
and quality suitable for the timbers of small ves
sels. Upon application to the authorities, leave is
given to cut them down, either for local use, or
for exportation.
The ride from Rosario being through an un
peopled plain, our near approach to Santa Fe" was
* My friend Mr. Barton, who was so styled.

/ — APPROACH TO SANTA FE. 29
most agreeable ; not only from the increase of tbe
population, but chiefly from the influence of the
sylvan scenery by which we were so unexpectedly
surrounded. After a pleasant gallop of four leagues, we
arrived at the city.

3Q THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.

CHAPTER II.
Situation of Sante Fe— Its trade, its buildings, and its streets —
Hospitality of Don Jose Amanebar — Introduction to the Gov
ernor Brigadier-General Don Pascuel — Poetical customs —
Vegetable produce— Fondness for bathing — Variety of races
— Siesta — Ride through the country — Mode of transporting
horses across the river — Medicinal properties of a fruit — De
parture for Cordova — Difficulties of the journey — Sauce —
Degraded state ofthe inhabitants — Indian hunters— Mode of
hunting— Edible species of thistle — Quebracho Herrado —
Scarcity of water — Tio — Chucha — Locusts — Biscachas —
Rapid-growing corn — Cordova — Trees growing there — Fire
flies — Village of Ranchos— Insects found — Country round
Cordova— Site of the city — Its churches, university, and
promenade— Climate and scenery— Feeling of the people
towards foreigners— Journey from Cordova— Sleeping-places
— Halt in the plain— Return to Sante Fe.
The city of Santa Fe is situated on a branch of the
river Parana, two leagues inland from the main
stream, and is about one hundred and forty -five
leagues distant from Buenos Ayres bv water. Ori
ginally its site was about twenty leagues higher up the

// * SANTA FE. 31
river, but that position being exposed to the Indians
of the Chaco, tbe present secluded spot was chosen.
It has a port with convenient quays ; but at some
seasons of the year there is not more than three or
four feet of water upon the bar. Its exports are con
fined to a trade with Monte Video and Buenos Ayres :
they consist of timber, hides, hair and wool. Cotton
and tobacco are not cultivated so as to leave any
surplus for export ; they might, however, be pro
duced to a considerable extent. There are about
fifty vessels belonging to this port, measuring from
twenty to 100 tons; nearly all are the property of
Italians, who may be said to have the entire navi
gation of the river Plate. The river Salado, which
runs through the Chaco, and looks so promising on
the map, is not navigable; at some seasons it is
nearly dry in several places.
Formerly this town had a considerable trade with
the upper provinces ; but during the civil wars, the
Indians from the Chaco have so encroached, as to
endanger the roads : for some time the intercourse
with those provinces, and even with Cordova, has
ceased. Nearly all the Indian towns and villages,
northward, which had been formed by the patience
and skill of the Jesuits, are destroyed. At present
the town has little or no trade with the interior ;
nor can it recover its former important position,
until, by an increase of population, which is now
only about fifteen thousand, the province becomes

32 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
sufficiently powerful to check the encroachments of
the Indians.
The city occupies a large space of ground ; for,
like all the towns in this country, a considerable por
tion is planted as fruit gardens. The houses are
either flat roofed, or covered with tiles, and only one
story in height. A majority of them were built
without any provision for glass windows; the light
and air being admitted through apertures fitted with
an open framework of wood, having strong shut
ters inside : neither are there fireplaces in the houses.
There are four large churches; one of which, built
in 1834, is remarkable for its solidity and fine pro
portions. It consists of a nave and aisles, separated
by square pillars supporting arches ; light is admitted
from the windows of a clear-story. It contains a
beautiful baptismal font of silver, with four richly-
carved holy water fonts. The high altar is in the
Gothic style, and enriched with gilding.
The streets are formed of the virgin sand; which,
although inconvenient enough in windy weather,
renders them preferable to those of Buenos Ayres
and other towns, where a few hours' rain converts
the clay into glutinous mud. The foot-paths,
however, are kept in good order. The town is
lighted, and the police well regulated. A small
newspaper, or rather Government gazette, is pub
lished weekly. Near the port is a laguna, containing
a quantity of mother-o'-pearl shells, which are used

/' "" TIMBER TRADE. 33
as spoons by the poor, and also by the rich ; though
the latter attach a massive silver handle to the shell.
Pearls of some value, according to report, have been
obtained from this lake. Italians were the only
foreigners in the place, excepting about half a dozen
French and one Scotchman, a joiner.
A very prosperous trade might be created at Santa
Fe by exporting timber ; its size and quality being
suitable for ship and house building, although per
haps too hard for general purposes, and not orna
mental enough for fine work. There was a large
stock of timber on the quay, ready for shipment ;
several beams of the algaroba squaring two feet in
thickness. Six river craft of from twenty to forty tons
burthen were on the stocks, building for Italians.
Upon our arrival, there being no hotels in the
city for travellers, we hired private apartments, and
delivered our letters of introduction : one was to
Dr. Don Jose Amanebar, a secular priest, who was
also deputy-governor; he received us most cordially,
and, finding our lodgings not to his liking, insisted
upon our making use of a large house at his dis
posal, which we found well aired and commodious,
and therefore at once removed thither. It was
church property, being dedicated to the Virgin del
Carmen for pious uses. Next morning he kindly
presented me to his excellency the governor, Brig
adier-General Don Pascual Echague, who, upon
being informed that the object of my tour was solely
VOL. II. d

34 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
to acquire information respecting the country, ex
pressed himself highly delighted ; and requested
that I would unhesitatingly point out in what way
he could facilitate my wishes. My first request was
to be enabled to proceed to the camp of General
Mancilla, who was engaged in passing a large troop
of horses across the Parana, on their way to General
Urquiza, then marching against the province of Cor
rientes. The governor introduced us to his lady and
daughter, by whom we were courteously received;
the latter presented us with a bouquet of flowers :
one of the many graceful customs of the country,
indicating the poetry pervading the social intercourse
of the educated classes.
In rambling through the town and neighbour
hood, I was struck with the quietness of Santa Fe ;
which showed few signs of busy life, although the
capital of the province and the seat of government.
Fruit-trees are in abundance — particularly figs,
peaches, and grapes; the poorer classes appear to
spend much time sitting under the shade of their
vines and fig-trees. They are also remarkably fond
of bathing ; their favourite enjoyment every even
ing being to repair to the Parana, and there indulge
in this refreshing luxury, which is enjoyed by all
ranks, and all ages. The men wear drawers, and
the better class of women use a somewhat suitable
dress consisting of thin drapery, but the humbler
classes are not so particular ; here an artist need not

//- BATHING IN THE PARANA. 35
be at a loss to sketch a finely-formed bust, and well-
rounded limbs from nature.
The river presents a very animated appearance,
as the bathers not only swim and dive, but other
wise disport themselves, talking and laughing with
great vivacity. At one moment the round head
and broad shoulders of a negress might be seen to
emerge above the surface ; at another the eye rested
upon an Indian woman, " naked, but not ashamed,"
plunging into the water, or rising dripping from the
stream ; while the ladies, whose loosely flowing hair
and correct Spanish language indicated superior
birth, veiled their charms in wet drapery. In ad
miring some of these scenes, it occurred to me that
a human figure of a fine bronze hue, is more agree
able to look upon, than one of pure white ; the con
tour of form which constituted Hogarth's " line of
beauty," being so much more sensibly defined in
the former than in the latter. After the bath, the
women allow their hair to hang loosely over their
shoulders for the remainder ofthe evening; and this
natural ornament gives an exquisite finish to the
appearance of those who already possess good
figures, and who are graceful in their movements.
The population exhibits a great variety of shades
of complexion ; for though the higher classes are
purely Spanish, there is a large admixture of Indian
and negro blood : one can trace the characteristics
of each race, from the shining black skin, thick lips,

36 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
and woolly hair of the negro, to the strongly-marked
and finely-formed features ofthe Spaniard.
During siesta the silence of death reigned in the
town ; all the stores and houses were closed, and the
streets deserted. Curiosity induced me to walk out
during the period of repose ; the number of persons
sleeping under the shade of trees, in their gardens,
and in different parts of the suburbs, presented a
strange appearance. The habit of passing so much
time in sleep must greatly interfere with the business
of the day.
As already intimated, I was anxious to witness
the mode of ferrying horses across the Parana ; and
for that purpose started late one evening under the
guidance of two soldiers. We soon cleared the town,
and as night came on, continued our journey at a
hard gallop ; making our way through brushwood
and tall grass, regardless of the trunks and branches
of trees which occasionally lay in our path : as
we sped over hill and hollow, " thorough brake,
thorough brier," our ride reminded me of the flight
of Tam O'Shanter.
In less than an hour, we reached a river, which
we crossed in a canoe, landing at the foot of a high
bank. On reaching the top of this bank, a pictu
resque and romantic scene met our view. We were
received by a hale old man wearing a long white
beard. Some drowsy warriors just disturbed from
their slumbers, regarded us with interest ; they re-

// _ ROMANTIC SCENE. 37
clined on the ground in the light of several fires re
flected by the trunks and branches of trees ; while
the festoons of parasites which shaded the picture,
would have rendered this a fit spot for a Druid
priest about to initiate a neophyte. Beneath the tall
banks, alligators and other amphibious animals were
to be found in great abundance. It was a scene to
fill the mind with superstitious fears, but the magic
form of a woman presented itself, and at once dis
pelled my alarms.
Here we were provided with fresh horses ; and
after a sweeping gallop through a break-neck coun
try, we reached the banks of another river, and
were hurried into a small canoe ; before I had time
to sit down, I found we were rapidly crossing the
stream, being towed over by two horses that swam
under our bows ; a rude resemblance to Neptune's
car, but wanting his trident and Tritons. On land
ing, having exchanged water for land, it was only
in keeping to convert the steeds of the son of Saturn
into fiery chargers ; we therefore mounted the same
horses, and before midnight had the pleasure of
spreading our saddles in the camp on the Island del
Rastrillo. Here we enjoyed sweet and romantic
slumbers until a bugle awoke us at sunrise.
The spot on which we found ourselves was thinly
wooded, and close to the river's edge ; and the call
ofthe bugle having been obeyed as promptly as that
of Robin Hood, it soon presented a busy, although

38 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
orderly scene. A temporary pier formed of posts and
covered with grass, extended into the river Parana,
and at the end of it a large float was moored : this
float was made by throwing planks across four large
flat-bottomed boats surrounded by a strong wooden
railing; a similar railing divided it down the centre.
The end of the pier nearest to the land was connected
with the corral, and thus, the horses were safely led
down to the float ; where they stood in two rows,
their heads being well secured to the centre railing.
Seventy horses were shipped in this way in a quarter
of an hour ; and the whole number thus transported
across the river was nearly five hundred. By a
similar contrivance twenty-three thousand horses
were conveyed across the Parana, in 1842, to assist
in besieging the Banda Oriental. All being ready,
the float was taken in tow by seven whale-boats, and
landed on the Entre Rios shore.
I crossed over in search of geological specimens,
wild fruits and flowers ; but saw only one tree, the
fruit of which the natives appeared to enjoy. It
was similar in form and appearance to a peach ;
but the flavour was not agreeable. I was told that
upon one occasion a man eaten up with a certain
loathsome disease, who did not wish to die before
the people, begged of them to take him to the wood
and leave him to perish alone. His request was
complied with, and he was placed under one of the
trees I have just mentioned ; it was the season whea

II ^ PREPARATIONS FOR A JOURNEY. 39
the fruit was ripe, and he began to eat what fell
from the branches ; so beneficial was the effect, that
before three weeks had elapsed, his blood was puri
fied. When the business of the morning was over, I
was introduced to General Mancilla, a brave and
experienced officer, who had fought during the
war for Independence, and subsequently against the
Brazils. After breakfast, during which meal a boy
entertained the guests with songs and mimicry, the
encampment was broken up ; and we returned to
the town in the General's boat. On the way we
passed some river turtle, and several alligators which
were basking in the sun.
A whole day was occupied in making arrange
ments for our departure to Cordova, a journey of
about eighty leagues. Formerly there was a safe
and public road the whole distance, but for some
time past (as already mentioned), the Indians from
the Chaco have been reasserting their rights over
their ancient dominions, and the road is now so
much exposed to their incursions, as to be almost
abandoned ; a traveller must therefore enter upon
this route well armed, and prepared for self-defence.
We had agreed with Don Pancho Rodriguez to
conduct us from Santa Fe to Cordova, and back
again, for the sum of ninety-two silver dollars ; he
undertook to supply eighteen good horses, and to take
three men with him ; and they as well as Don Pedro

40 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
and myself being well armed, we had no apprehen
sion of danger. We were also supplied with an
order from the governor to one of the military out
posts on the frontier, where, if needful, we could re
ceive an escort : indeed the governor recommended
all necessary precautions, not merely against the
Indians, but against deserters from the army, who
sometimes appear upon the frontiers as a band of
freebooters. Another evil we had to guard against
was a scarcity of food : as the journey was likely
to occupy five days, we were supplied with an ox
tongue, some biscuits and a piece of cheese ; and as
water could not be procured during a period of two
days, which must be occupied in crossing a waste of
about thirty-five leagues, each was supplied with two
ox-horns to contain a sufficient supply of drink.
Thus prepared, we set out from Santa Fe a little
before noon. Upon leaving the suburbs, we passed
through ten leagues of a country very thinly popu
lated, until we reached Sauce. This place was es
tablished to form a point for friendly intercourse
with the Indians : it contains about four hundred
souls, of whom probably one-half are soldiers
and their families; the other half being Indians.
The commandante is a very intelligent Indian,
speaking good Spanish. Nothing can be more de
graded than the appearance of those Christian
savages. In their huts, which are built with a few
sticks and mud, they are in a state of nudity, except

// - CHRISTIANIZED INDIANS. 41
such slight covering as mere decency demands ;
when they go out, the men put on a poncho, and the
women, in addition to their petticoat, pass a piece of
cotton loosely under one arm and over the opposite
shoulder, leaving both arms and shoulders bare :
their hair hangs in a long plait. Their faces are
not so large nor so flat as those of the Pampa tribes.
The government induces them to reside in this and
other similar localities, by allowing them tobacco,
yerba, and some few baubles. There is a church in
the village, but no priest ; some of the women, how
ever, can repeat a few prayers. They are sufficiently
industrious to make the jergas and ponchos worn
by the men ; they also spin the yarn, and then dye
the thread with roots obtained in Entre Rios ; and
such is their patience and ingenuity that they endea
vour to copy any English pattern, no matter how
elaborate, by counting the threads.
We remained in that village for the night ;
next morning, being furnished with an escort of six
mounted carbineers and six Indian lancers, we re
sumed our journey, having also a supply of spare
horses. We then mustered such a number that we
presented quite a formidable appearance : instead
of being a dull and sober traveller, or at best ano
ther " Dr. Syntax in search of the Picturesque," I
was at once transformed into something resembling
a feudal baron, with his knights and esquires.
We had not proceeded far, before our Indian

42 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
warriors, true to their ruling passion, made arrange
ments for a hunting party. A semicircle of about
half a league in extent was formed, giving every
possible promise of much sport. The game, how
ever, was not abundant, and consisted solely of deer.
Their mode of hunting is as follows : when an
animal starts, the nearest hunter gives chase, and if
he gains on the prey, continues his onward course
until near enough to throw his bolas ; and as they
seldom fail to strike the animal, it at once becomes
fettered, and falls to the ground. Great skill is
required by those who join such hunting-parties :
the aim of those in advance is to turn the game,
if possible, into the circle, from which an animal
can seldom escape.
It was amazing to observe with what dexterity
the Indian balanced his lance, and managed his
horse. Whenever he approached the game, al
though going at full speed, he planted the shaft
erect in the ground, and then prepared his bolas
for the final crisis. The first victim was a good-
sized doe ; but not being fat enough for our fasti
dious sportsman, her head alone was made use of.
One noble animal stood four times at bay. As she
outstripped one hunter, she found herself approach
ing another : three times the fatal balls were
thrown, but she evaded them each time, and ulti
mately escaped from the circle, by giving a sudden
wheel close to the last hunter.

// „ INDIAN HUNTING PARTY. 43
At noon our main body halted for breakfast ; a
tree sheltered us from the sun, and a small pool
supplied us with water. The hunters joined us, one
after another. As the last of the stragglers was re
turning, he started a fawn, and gave chase, but was
soon distanced ; another then mounted, and set off;
they pursued for a long time, and succeeded in turn
ing the game towards our position. The fawn was
evidently leaving them behind, when a third hunter
mounted, and joined in the chase ; but the morning's
work had so tired the horses, that the animal kept
the lead of all ; a fourth hunter with a fresh horse
then turned out, and ultimately caught her close to
where we lay. A fire was at once kindled, at which
some beef and three deer were roasted. Close by us
grew a species of thistle, extremely good to eat,
which formed an agreeable addition to our repast ;
the stalk near the top being very tender, and
having a flavour similar to that of a carrot.
As the sun was scorching, we prolonged our
siesta till about four o'clock ; when we saddled our
horses, and journeyed onwards. At midnight we
halted, and lay down under a quebracho tree : the
young moon gave us light. I had longed for a
sight of this tree, as much as ever I desired any
place of repose.
Next morning, we parted with our escort ; whom
we left roasting a deer they had taken the night
before. Shortly after, we passed through Que-

44 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
bracho Herrado; where, during the civil war of
1838, a bloody battle was fought: our conductor,
Don Pancho, had been in the engagement, and he
described the details most minutely. Twenty thou
sand men were on the field ; two thousand were
killed, and two thousand made prisoners, besides
one thousand women. This place was once a
thriving village, but during the war of inde
pendence, it was completely destroyed by the In
dians from the Chaco. Since then, animals more
harmless than man, such as the deer and guanaco,
have regained possession of the soil : of the latter
we saw but one herd.
We halted for breakfast under a peach-tree, laden
with unripe fruit ; a flock of beautiful flamingoes
were in an adjoining pool, and small green lizards
ran about us where we sat.
Soon after, we crossed the boundary, and entered
the province of Cordova, which presented a wood
land scenery similar to that near the city of Santa Fe.
About noon, our water, through bad management,
became exhausted, and under the influence of a
burning sun we suffered so much from thirst that we
were glad to drink water from the muddiest puddle :
I endeavoured to purify it by filtering through a
cloth. Late in the afternoon, we determined to halt
for the night, and hoped, by a careful search amongst
the woods, to discover water. Once, indeed, we
heard frogs croaking ; then hope dawned ; but we

" » THE AGUE THISTLE. 45
found they had not water enough for themselves.
Near to the frogs, we started an ostrich from her
nest ; the young ones were all able to run. Despair
ing of finding water here, we pushed on for the river
Segundo, which we reached long after sunset ; but
great was our disappointment on finding it dried up.
Our next hope was to reach Tio, a frontier post
belonging to the government of Cordova. On
approaching that place, we missed our way ; we
listened attentively, but in vain, for the barking of
dogs, which might serve us as a guide. I then
despaired of reaching any human habitation, and dis
mounted, resolving to halt for the night where we
then were. Presently, however, a boy returning
home, crossed in our direction, and undertook to pilot
us to the settlement, which we soon entered. After
having a brief interview with the commandante, and
enjoying copious libations of water, we spread our
saddles in the yard, and slept for the night.
At Tio we left all our spare horses, as we were
now entering a country producing a poisonous plant,
of the thistle species, which strange cattle eat, and
which causes their death : instinct has gradually
taught the cattle reared on the spot to avoid it.
The name given to it is chucha (or ague) : so called
from the effect it produces.
We had now about thirty-five leagues to travel,
through a district which is for the most part occu
pied by a laborious people, all of whom are owners

46 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
of small farms, varying in extent from one to three
thousand English acres. Their wealth consisted in
a few cows, a flock of sheep, and a flock of goats ;
their ground produces wheat, maize, &c. &c. In
the cultivation of their lands they have to contend
with many difficulties.
At this season (December), their crops are liable
to be destroyed by locusts, which come out of the
woods, and literally cover the earth. Locusts when
young do not fly, but crawl and jump like grass
hoppers ; afterwards they take wing, and migrate in
clouds to the north, destroying all vegetation wher
ever they halt for food : we rode through miles of
country, in which they covered the shrubs and trees,
presenting the appearance of a swarm of bees. When
locusts make their appearance, the people turn out,
and endeavour, by waving shawls, and by other
means, to turn them aside from their fields, so that
they may pass on without halting. Another annoy
ance to which these people are subject, is from the
biscachas, which feed on their wheat : occasionally a
great part of the night is spent in chasing them with
dogs. A still greater hardship which they endure
is the want of water : the quantity of rain which falls
is not sufficient for their wants, and in some places
the spring water is brackish.
Yet, notwithstanding all these disadvantages, these
people seem to live much better than the inhabitants
of the province of Buenos Ayres. Their food con-

// — AN INDUSTRIOUS POPULATION. 47
sists of milk, bread, vegetables, wild fruits, and
meat. Every house has a large wooden pestle and
mortar for pounding wheat and maize, which they
boil with milk ; thus producing an excellent dish.
There is a kind of wheat grown in Santa Fe, which
comes to perfection within four months from seed
time ; and if they sow the proper description of seed,
it will save them four months' trouble in watching
the biscachas. The women are industrious, and spin
and weave nealy all the men's garments.
Unfortunately, these poor people have not the
sagacity to pass over into some other part of the
country, where they would be free from all these
annoyances, and where the same industry would at
once procure them much more than a competence.
In passing through this district, I saw enclosed
fields, for the first time in my rambles. The fences
were made of branches of trees, sometimes secured
with stakes. The whole of the country from
Santa Fe to Cordova is well wooded, and produces
in great abundance a small shrub having a leaf
similar to the tea-plant of China, both in form and
odour. The algaroba-tree is very abundant ; it
is similar both in form and quality to the oak.
None of the trees take deep root, as I dis
covered by observing those blown down during
storms ; this proves the soil to be shallow. The
noise of the insects in the trees is deafening ;
and at night, in addition to that of birds, frogs,

48 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
and other reptiles, the clamour is so loud, harsh,
and discordant, as to set description at defiance.
Lions, tigers, and snakes are to be found in these
woods, but they give little or no annoyance. That
beautiful insect, the firefly, abounds here : as I held
one in my hand, I have seen its eyes shine like
little balls of fire.
We departed from Tio late in the day ; and where
we stopped for the night, we found in our host a
very industrious man : he obtained his livelihood by
cutting down the timber close to his house, of which
he made carts ; these he exchanged in Buenos
Ayres, receiving fifteen or twenty head of cattle
for each cart. The day being wet, I slept under
shelter to avoid the damp of the night ; but the
entire household slept in the open air. The next
day we passed near to the village of Ranchos ; and
before sunset, we halted at the hut of a poor family.
I made my bed under a tree ; but thunder and rain
coming on, I was most reluctantly compelled to
seek shelter in the hut. It was already occupied
by a man, three women, and two children ; and
although it was scarcely large enough for a two-
horse stable, they contrived to make room for my
self and Don Pedro. Sleeping in the open air
is much more agreeable than in the small and close
ranchos of the country ; the bugs and fleas being a
great annoyance : one of the former is much more
to be dreaded than a dozen of the same tribe in

" - ARRIVAL AT CORDOVA. 49
England. If they were killed on the person, their
blood would pollute everything they should be cau
tiously taken in the hand, and either thrown to a
distance or destroyed on the floor.
Next morning we started for Cordova, which we
entered about noon. A biscuit and sweet wild
berries had served for my breakfast. The country
through which we had passed is a dead level for the
entire distance, excepting some clearly-defined undu
lations around the neighbourhood of Sauce. Deer
and ostriches are very abundant here.
It was most pleasing to observe with what loud
and spontaneous expressions of gladness Don Pan
cho was received by his acquaintances, as he passed
along the street and entered his house : though
boisterous mirth is not always cheerfulness ; neither
is a noisy welcome always an evidence of real de
light. It is under the hallowed influence of silence
and seclusion that attached friends seek a reunion ;
where, beyond the reach of restraint, throbbing
hearts may interchange their feelings, and both may
revel in a common joy : at meeting, at parting, and
in solitude, the heart gives utterance to its emo
tions. Upon arriving in Cordova, I repaired to the
Government House to present a letter of introduc
tion to his Excellency General Don Manuel Lopez.
He himself was absent upon an expedition against
the Indians ; but the Deputy, Don C. M. Gonsalez,
VOL. II. E

50 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
proved an excellent representative : he at once
adopted means to facilitate my researches, and
co-operated in all my plans with the greatest ur
banity. The site of the city is ill chosen ; a deep hollow
having been selected in order to afford greater
security to the inhabitants from the Indians, who,
at the time of its foundation, in 1573, harassed the
settlers greatly.
The city is watered by the river Segundo, which,
though in summer but a shallow stream, in winter
becomes a deep and broad river. During the heavy
rains, an immense body of water pours down upon
the town from the adjacent slopes ; and to save the
town from destruction, the inhabitants have been,
compelled to erect a strong wall, forming a bar
rier within which the waters are confined, and thus:
diverted into a proper channel. The population is
estimated at 15,000.
From the number of its churches, as well as.
their magnitude and grandeur, we may suppose
that Cordova was formerly a city of great import*
ance. There are ten churches, exclusive of those
attached to religious houses ; and a new and
splendid one has just been erected at the expense
of the nuns ; there are also two nunneries and
two convents : one of Franciscans, the other of
Dominicans. The prevailing style of architecture
is Moorish; the Martriz Church, situated in the

// - ECCLESIASTICAL ESTABLISHMENTS. 51
Plaza, which was built in 1580, is a fine edifice,
and displays much architectural skill and richness.
Some of the churches contain good paintings ;
though I might almost say that the Franciscan
church contains acres of daubed canvass.
The University, which occupies about four acres
of ground, is erected on a scale of great magnitude ;
the building is in fine preservation, but its treasury
is exhausted : indeed, the professors can barely pro
cure a subsistence from the students' fees — their
chief source of income. The course of study is
similar to that pursued in Spain.
Attached to the Jesuits'* domicile, is a very
beautiful church ; the ceiling arched with timber
richly gilded, and painted in fresco. The number
of ecclesiastics, secular and regular, in the town, is
about a hundred.
Whilst spending a few hours in walking through
these religious institutions, the mind insensibly
recurs to the middle ages : the old friars with their
hoods and cowls, their beads and crucifixes ; the
silent devotion of some, the subdued but audible
prayers of others ; the gloomy cloisters and the
secret confessional ; the well-stored kitchen, and
clean refectory, all combine to remind the beholder
of the habits of the Theocracy during that period
of the world's history when it was a crime to
* Since writing the above, the Jesuits have been expelled the
province.

52 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
worship God by the aid of that light which He
has vouchsafed to every man.
The most striking object in the city is the public
promenade. This is an extensive space containing a
square sheet of water, of about four acres, supplied
by a clear running stream ; surrounded by walks
having seats shaded by willows and poplars; in the
centre is a lantern-shaped temple with a cupola, the
whole being enclosed by a low brick wall surmounted
by an ornamental iron railing.
Few of the fair sex, particularly at the season
of the year when I visited the city, frequent this
delightful retreat ; the prevalence of monastic insti
tutions, and the influence of the priesthood, having
made them retired in their habits.
The city presents an extremely clean and orderly
appearance ; the streets, which intersect at right
angles, are well kept and well lighted. The only
manufacture in the place is that of leather. There
is no newspaper, although formerly there were two
weekly journals published. A mint has been re
cently established for the issue of silver coin ; but
it is so impure, from the excess of alloy, that it
does not pass current beyond the boundaries of
the province. The climate is very salubrious ;
though the rain does not fall in sufficient quan
tity. There are no foreigners in the town, nor
even in the province, except a few French and
two or three English : the government architect

// - SCENERY ROUND CORDOVA. 53
is a Frenchman, who possesses both wealth and
influence. The distance from Cordova to Buenos Ayres, in
a direct line, is about 120 leagues, but the present
road makes a cireuit of 180 leagues; partly to give
a wide berth to the Indians of the Pampas, and
partly to avoid a low and swampy tract of country.
The distance to the port of Rosario, on the river
Parana, is about 1 00 leagues.
In riding round the suburbs some good land
scape scenery may be seen; one eminence affords
a fine birdVeye view of the city, whilst from
another hill there is an extensive and striking view
of the surrounding country : the foreground is a
thickly wooded declivity, over which the domes
and spires of the city are clearly visible ; on the
right, a winding stream separates the skirts of the
suburbs from a rising ground which gradually melts
in the distant horizon ; beyond the city, the eye
rests for a moment on an extended plain, which im
perceptibly rises and finally loses itself in the hills,
forming the base of mountains ascending range
upon range, until they reach an elevation of per
haps two thousand feet. These mountains are said
to be rich in the precious metals.
In wandering amongst the beauties of nature, we
are not sensible of any joyous influence unless we
have in our minds the mirror which reflects her
image; to its ealm and lustrous surface are then

54 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
transferred the lineaments of all that is soft and
lovely in the scene. Without this quality we are
unmoved by the charms of nature even under her
most attractive aspects.
Before leaving the city, I called to thank Don
C. M. Gonsalez for the attention which I had re
ceived from all persons in authority. His Excel
lency embraced the opportunity to represent to
me the kindly feelings entertained by all classes
throughout the province towards foreigners : he
reminded me that they were not only made wel
come as settlers, but were allowed to prosecute
their calling peacefully, and without interrup
tion, while the natives had to bear all the burdens
of the state. This good feeling, so strongly enter
tained towards them, he particularly requested I
would make known to the world !
It was my original intention to proceed to the
Rio Quarto, for the purpose of visiting a district
belonging to Messrs. Feilden Brothers, of Man
chester, containing forty square leagues of pasture
land, an estate formerly owned by the Jesuits ; but
finding it would involve an additional journey of
sixty leagues, I was compelled to abandon my in
tention, and to return again to Santa Fe.
I cannot quit this portion of my narrative, with
out acknowledging the polite attention of Doctor
Hawling, from the United States, who has resided
here for some years ; and also of Don Juan Cam,-

// » SLEEPING IN THE OPEN AIR. 55
pillia, and Don B. Ocampo, from all of whom I
received valuable information.
We started late in the afternoon, well supplied
with bread and figs, and after a ride of about eight
leagues, halted for the night, and slept under a
large tree. The next night we reached a house
where a friend of Don Pancho's resided. When
we approached, the family were asleep in the open
air. The good woman gave us water to drink,
and as it was too late to roast a kid, we lay down
under the tree to sleep.
A large portion of the inhabitants of these
northern provinces sleep in the open air, except
during the extreme cold of winter. General Lopez,
a late Governor of Santa Fe, and a man of con
siderable political and martial influence, was fre
quently heard to say, that for eighteen years of
his life, he never slept in a house : nor did he ever
sleep in a bed from childhood, until his marriage.
The patios and the roofs of houses are the favourite
resorts in the towns : in Cordova all the servant-
women of the household where I was domiciled
slept in the patio close to my bed-room door.
We started on the following morning, and at
night we entered Tio, the frontier post of the pro
vince of Cordova. We had now to cross a plain
of a hundred miles in extent, totally uninhabited,
without water, and subject to the incursions of the
Indians of the Chaeo, as has been already men-

56 THU ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
tioned. I had brought an order to the Command-
ante for an escort, but I thankfully declined their
services ; partly because I did not apprehend much
danger, and partly because I strongly suspected
that, if the Indians really appeared, some of us
would be more disposed to trust to the speed of our
horses than to our weapons.
We started early from Tio ; but the sun was
scorching, and at noon we halted, to seek shelter
from his rays. On such an occasion it is usual, if
possible, to select a grassy spot within reach of
water; this found, the travellers proceed to unsaddle
the horses under the trees, upon whose branches the
cloaks are spread, so as to form an awning, whilst the
saddles serve as a couch whereon the travellers may
enjoy a siesta. The interval before sleep comes on,
is usually spent, under this leafy canopy, in admiring
the varied plumage ofthe birds, and the numberless
specimens of the insect tribe ; and in watching the
deer, as they draw near the water. Nothing can
be more beautiful than the shy and timid approach
of the fawns, impatient to slake their thirst in the
cooling stream.
After resting two or three hours, we re-mounted,
and continued our journey until midnight ; we then
halted, fettered our horses, but did not unsaddle
them, and with our cloaks wrapped around us, slept
on the ground for a short time. When somewhat
refreshed, we again journeyed onwards, and a little

// - A WEARISOME JOURNEY. 57
after sunset next evening reached Sauce ; extremely
glad, not only to find ourselves beyond the reach
of the Indians, but also to have finished a hundred
miles ride, during which bread, figs, and muddy
water, had been our only food. For some leagues
around Sauce, the dry grass was on fire, presenting
a grand and awful appearance.
Next morning we entered Santa Fe. When
near the city we crossed the river Salado in a canoe
hollowed ont of a tree, our horses swimming over.
On my calling to take leave of my friends — to all
of whom I feel under lasting obligations — the
governor and the deputy-governor afforded me
every facility for acquiring information, and ex
plained to me, in the fullest manner, all that I re
quired to know. To Don Mariano Puig, and his
brother Don Tomas also, I owe many thanks for
their hospitality and kindness.

58 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.

CHAPTER III.
Description of Parana— Its productions and climate— Habits
and diseases of the people— Early history— Its governors-
Commercial capabilities of tbe province of Entre Rios—
Doubtful titles to land— Natural productions— Temperature
and quantity of rain — Locusts — Journey from Parana — Trees
— Fording a river — Primitive post-house and its inhabitants
— Mode of striking a light — Habits of the people — Influence
of civilization upon man — Crossing a river— Description of
Concordia and Salta— Cascade of Salta — Grande and scenery
near— Unsuccessful attempt to colonize this district— English
property — Description of Uruguay — Herds of unmarked
cattle and their wildness — Troops of militia — Punishment of
theft — Rent of land — Gualeguay Chu — Its inhabitants and
buildings — Ostrich nest — Gualeguay — British settlements-
Journey from Gualeguay — Carpinchas — Mode of conveying
luggage across a river in a balsa — Harassing journey across
the Island Lecheguanas — Arrival at Buenos Ayres.
Leaving Santa Fe, we crossed the river, a distance
of about four leagues, in an open boat, and landed
at Parana, on the opposite bank, at midnight. The
night being wet and cold, we aroused a custom
house officer, who kindly gave us shelter ; our
fellow -passengers, four of whom were women, slept

HI ~ PARANA. 59
under the trees. This town, like all the others, is
destitute of any accommodation for travellers ; and
it is the custom with the natives, when on a journey,
to visit some friend, or hire a room.
General Urquiza, the governor, was absent, fight
ing in Corrientes ; but his representative showed us
every attention. There is nothing in the aspect
of this town, which was founded about the year
1730, to distinguish it from that already described.
It is situated on a lofty bank of the river Parana,
about a mile from the water's edge, in latitude
31° 45' south, longitude 60° 47' west of Green
wich. The approach from the river can scarcely
be called a road ; and the precipitous bank renders
the cartage a heavy tax on merchandize. The
custom-house is inconveniently situated in the heart
of the town. Commerce does not appear to oc
cupy the thoughts of the people ; tanneries, and
other evidences of former industry, exist, but in
ruin. The population at one period was about ten
thousand, it is now reduced to between six and
seven thousand ; although for some time it has been
on the increase. The number of foreigners is about
a hundred, nearly all being Italians, with perhaps
a dozen French and half a dozen English ; there
are also two North Americans. At present there are
no public buildings but Mr. Guillon, a North
American architect, is engaged in erecting a Go
vernment House. Some years ago a large church

60 THE argentine PROVINCES.
was commenced, but it has not been finished.
The number of artisans is small, and they only
practise the most necessary trades. The exports
are hides, hair, tallow, and lime ; the latter being.
of most importance. Several small vessels belong
to the port, but there is no provision made for
their registry. The town is badly supplied with
water, which is conveyed from the river in carts
drawn by oxen ; and from a shilling to eighteen
pence is paid for a single pipe of this necessary
element. The fruits produced in greatest abundance,
in this part of the country, are oranges, lemons,
grapes, peaches, and apricots. With the exception
of two or three months in winter, which are damp
arid cold, the climate is mild and dry. Fire-places
are not used ; and few carpets are to be met with
in the houses.
The people of all classes live in the open air, and
only care for shelter during rain, or while sleeping.
It might be supposed from this circumstance, and
from the mildness of the climate, that they enjoyed
robust health • but such is not the fact. The cus
tom of smoking tobacco and sipping " mate " is
universal amongst all classes and both sexes ; these
practices, combined with the inactive life led by
many, cause the prevalence of chronic diseases of
the alimentary canal, particularly of the upper part
of it ; likewise acute and chronic diseases of the
uterus. Acute diseases of the chest are also fre-

///- DISEASES IN PARANA. 61
quent ; but those of the head, as well as pulmonary
consumption, are rare. Intermittents are unknown.
The only endemic disease (also common in the neigh
bouring provinces) is bronchocele (goitre), which is
attended with this peculiarity — that it confines it
self, in this town, almost entirely to females. I
knew of several men who were afflicted with it, but
they were natives ofthe adjacent provinces of Santa
Fe, where it is more common. There, as in the
other provinces of Corrientes, and particularly in
Paraguay, the proportion of male to female sufferers
is small. The natives believe that this disease is
caused by the water which they drink ; and one or
two instances are on record in which both males
and females, who partook of a certain spring, had
an enlargement of the gland.
Respecting the early history of this province,
nothing satisfactory, even of a legendary character,
can be learned. The province was originally inha
bited by a tribe of Indians called " Charruas," be
tween whom and the early settlers constant warfare
was carried on. At length, about the year 1750,
a decisive battle took place between them, upon an
" arroyo" or creek, since called the " Matanza" —
that is, a place of slaughter — when the Indians
were almost all destroyed. Those who escaped
took refuge in the Banda Oriental, and never after
attempted to disturb the province.
After the declaration of independence, this pro-

62 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
vince continued for a short time under the jurisdic
tion of Buenos Ayres, but very soon refused to ac
knowledge its authority. Each petty chief sought by
the power of the sword to make himself a sovereign!
lord. In 1816, General Artizas, then all-powerful in
the Banda Oriental, sent a force under Francisco-.
Ramirez against Don E. Ereneu, who was at that
time styled governor. Ramirez having overthrown
him, and established himself as governor, rebelled;
against the authority of Artizas, who immediately
invaded the province ; he was at first successful, but in
1819 was completely defeated, and finally took refuge
in the province of Paraguay. Ramirez, then feeling
himself secure, crossed the Parana to Santa Fe with
a body of cavalry, for the purpose of invading
Buenos Ayres. He was opposed by Don E. Lopez,.
governor of Sante Fe, and La Madrid, the chief of
the Buenos Ayrean forces. In a battle which was
fought near the frontier of Cordova, Ramirez was
slain. His half-brother, Don Ricardo Lopez Jordan,
then declared himself " supreme chief" of the pro
vince. General Don Lncio Mancilla, major of the
infantry, who had contributed to the defeat of Arti
zas, concentrated measures against Don Ricardo, and
finally overthrew him. A congress was shortly
after assembled under the direction of General
Mancilla, consisting of deputies from different parts
of the province, who drew up a code of laws, and
established a form of government, which has nomi-

/// - PROVINCE OF ENTRE RIOS. 63
nally existed to the present day. The province was
then divided into departments, and sub-departments,
and everything done to inspire confidence in the
government, which was now reconciled to a union
with Buenos Ayres. General Mancilla remained
invested with the office of governor until 1824, when
he formally resigned, and Don Leon Lolas was
elected. Subsequently, several other ignorant and
incapable men usurped both civil and military autho
rity ; in consequence of which anarchy prevailed
until 1831, when Don Pascual Echaque became
governor, and under him order was restored. Civil
war was again kindled in 1838, and the province
was once more involved in ruin; but in 1841,
General Urquiza was elected governor, and he has
since then maintained his authority in tranquil
lity. The geographical position ofthe province of Entre
Rios is decidedly favourable to commerce. Inland
navigation is practicable for some hundreds of
miles, and ships bound for Europe can therefore take
in their cargoes in the very heart of the country.
But all its political, mercantile, and social relations
are so disorganized, that to extricate herself from
the chaos appears for the present almost impossible.
Large grants of land have been made by the crown
of Spain to different individuals; but in many cases
these tracts were previously occupied by " squatters,"
whom the owners have never been able to remove.

64 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
The continued anarchy in the province, has aW
rendered the titles to land very doubtful ; and so
little attention has been paid to the subject, that the
official authorities are not always able to ascertain;
where the public lands are situated. Strangers,
therefore, should not purchase unless under the
guarantee of Government.
The soil produces wheat, barley, and maize, or
Indian corn ; cotton and tobacco of a fine quality
can also be raised. The crops, however, are very
precarious in consequence of the severe droughts, to
which not only this province, but the whole of the
Argentine republic, is subject. These droughts, or
secos, are sometimes general, but often only partial.
In the year 1830-31 and 32, there was a general
drought throughout the republic, during the con
tinuance of which an immense number of cattle pe
rished for want of pasture and water. In 1841-42,
46 and 47, there was again a severe drought
throughout the province of Entre Rios.
The following meteorological table, showing the
results of four years' observations of the thermo
meter, and also the number of rainy days during
that period, is the best evidence I could obtain
as to the temperature and the weather : I am in
debted for it to Dr. Kennedy. A rain-gauge,
however, is the only certain test of the quantity of
rain that annually falls : which is very trifling
indeed.

Ill

METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

65

METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE PARANA.

s§
»-3

i
a

••a

a

?-3

13

o

o

1 O

1uas
n

.2 *
o
H

1844.
(Partial Drought).

•Ighst. Range of Ther.
96
94
84
82
71
71
72
74
82
80
86
90
1 jowest ditto
78
72
73
66
55
50
56
56
64
65
72
74
f o.* of Rainy Days . .
6
4
2
6
2
2
5
0
4
3
4
2
40
1845.
(Partial Drought).
Ighst. Range of Ther.
88
90 92
82
74
72
64
64
74
82
81;
84
jowest ditto
70
78 70
64
55
56
55
56
56
60
64
72
4o. of Rainy Days . .
5
3 3
6
5
2
8
4
6
4
7
4
57
846 (General Drought
and Epidemic).
Ighst. Range of Ther.
90
88
86
84
70
66
72
79
74
76
86
88
iowest ditto.
74
72
76
68
56
50
54
56
62
60
70
71
tfo. of Rainy Days . .
3
4
2
6
12
6
2
2
0
3
3
4
48
847 (General Drought
and Epidemic).
Ighst. Range of Ther.
90
84
86 76
1
70
67
70
69
74
83
80
82
iowest ditto.
70
78
73 62
58
56
56
56
56
64
70
74
To. of Rainy Days ¦ ¦
!
3
1
1
5
1
3
2
4
4
4
4
5
37
* The number of rainy days includes every
The Thermometer was kept in a room always open,
VOL. II.
slight shower.
with an eastern
aspect.
66 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
This and several of the neighbouring provinces
are infested by immense swarms of locusts, whose
destructive power is incredible. In the months of
July, August, September, and sometimes so late as
October, these insects make their appearance
from the north ; extending their flight across the
province of Santa Fe ; but rarely, if ever, pas
sing the river Uruguay. They appear to seek this
part of the country exclusively to deposit their
eggs, which process involves a period varying
from twenty to thirty days. As soon as the egg is
deposited, the parent locust dies ; laying the egg
and securing it, appearing to be the last act of
life. In about two months the young locust makes
its appearance ; it is at first white, but very soon
assumes a dark hue, and greatly resembles the small
grasshopper. At the end of two months, it appears
withwings, when it prepares for flight to the north.
The migration of these insects is simultaneous : for
although the greater number may have sufficient
strength of wing, yet none betake themselves to
flight until all are ready for departure. They occupy
several days and nights in crossing the province,
and passing the river Parana, in the direction of the
large tract of country called " Chaco," inhabited only
by Indians. Their exact destination is unknown,
at least here ; and can only be a matter of conjec
ture, as their flight is continued beyond the province
of Paraguay. Although the females come here

fll ' PLAGUE OF LOCUSTS. 67
to deposit their eggs, it appears that the fecun
dating principle of the male is further necessary ; as
in the act of depositing the egg they are universally
found in pairs. Both perforate the earth together
with the posterior extremity of their bodies, bury
themselves up to the wings, and in that situation
may be seen dead. The eggs are enclosed in a long
cell resembling a small musket-cartridge, about two
inches in length and of a glutinous nature, imper
vious to water; the hardest ground is chosen as a
depository for the eggs. The insects do not return
periodically. In 1833 they appeared, and made
annual visits until 1840 ; they then disappeared until
1844, since when they appear to have returned every
successive year. Their voracity and destructiveness
are without parallel. When pinched by hunger,
they have been known to eat earth, the bark of the
hardest trees, cotton and linen, but, unless in
extreme cases, they will not injure the vine, the
musk, the melon, the paraiso, or amber trees,
nor will they consume any animal substance. The
roofs of the houses in the campana (country), being
thatched with straw, are sometimes so completely
eaten away by them, that new roofs become neces
sary. Their numbers are countless. A traveller
may ride through a cloud of them extending for
ten or twelve leagues ; where they are so dense as
to become dangerous to the eyes. Neither the
towns nor the open country are exempt from them.

68 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
In Paraguay the inhabitants succeeded in extermi
nating them for a number of years. Every family
was required by government to furnish a certain
weight of eggs. Trenches were also dug, wherever
the young made their appearance; and the inha
bitants, provided with brooms and branches of
trees, swept them into the pits and covered them
with earth.
Before describing my journey from Parana, I
must express my acknowledgment to Dr. Kennedy,
a resident of that town, who has afforded much
valuable information.
On leaving Parana, we passed through a beau
tiful country, very thinly inhabited. Our way, for
about twelve leagues, lay through a wood which
extends into the province of Corrientes, maintain
ing a width of from thirty to forty miles ; at the
extremity of which is an immense lake. The
trees, which were low, crooked, and stunted in
their growth, were chiefly the nandubay, algaroba,
black and white espinillo, quebracho, and guay-
iabo. The most abundant and most useful are the
nandubay and algaroba, which belong to the mimosa
tribe : the wood of the former is extremely hard,
and possess the excellence of not being subject to
dry-rot. From this tree, may be obtained, although
not in any quantity, a gum similar to the acacia, or
gum arabic. The seed of the algaroba is edible,
and in some of the prcinces forms a portion of the

t)l - PRIMITIVE POST HOUSE. 69
food of the inhabitants. The seed of the espinillo
is used for dyeing black ; and the bark of the guay-
iabo is employed in tanning. Although this pro
vince has the reputation of being well wooded, it
can only be considered so in a comparative sense.
Such is the scarcity of timber in almost all these
provinces that the inhabitants must depend upon
the Baltic and North America for a supply. These
remarks, however, are not applicable to Paraguay,
which is enriched with extensive forests of valuable
timber. Immediately after starting the second morning,
we had to ford a river. To preserve my pistols
from wet, I secured them on the top of my horse's
head, while my wardrobe was fastened to my
shoulders ; but when in the centre of the stream
the pistols became loose, and so terrified the ani
mal, that it was with difficulty I preserved my seat
and reached the bank in safety ; though at the ex
pense of a complete wetting. Fortunately, the
post-house was not far distant ; where we halted to
dry our luggage.
This house, or rather shed, was inhabited by an
old man, and his three young sons. Their style of
living was the most primitive I have as yet seen.
The shed was formed of a frame-work of wood, cut
from the branches of the adjoining trees, and lined
with grass secured by thongs of raw hide. The
furniture consisted of a dry hide, placed on an ele-

70 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
vated platform in one corner of the apartment, in
tended for a seat by day, and a bed by night;
while the few domestic utensils were of a very pri
mitive order : there was one small cast-iron three-
legged pot; large gourds contained the supply of
water; and shells, found in an adjoining stream,
were used as spoons. Suspended from the roof
was a hide, so shaped as to be a universal deposi
tory ; in another place was hung that part of the
skeleton of a sheep lying between the neck and the
loin, which formed a kind of basket.
Soon after we arrived, a fire was kindled, and
a lamb roasted. The mode of procuring a light
was very curious : a boy obtained a piece of dry,
soft wood about six inches in length ; one end of
which rested in the socket formed by the joint of a
sheep's trotter, which he held in his left hand, the
other being placed in a block of hard wood ; then,
by means of a bow-string, he produced a rapid fric
tion on the piece of soft wood, which speedily ig
nited. After dinner, the young men of the house
hold stood up, repeated some prayers, and asked
their father for his blessing : a practice so general
in those parts, which had been formerly under
the influence of the Jesuits, that men of all
ages, sometimes even the gray-headed, are ac
customed to receive their father's blessing daily.
Our next halt was at a collection of four or five
huts, of similar structure, where a kind woman pre-

/// .. SLEEPING IN THE OPEN AIR. 71
sented us with, a dish of wild honey, sweet milk, and
cakes. The inhabitants of this part of the world seem
to think that the earth and sky exclusively constitute
their dwelling-place. The erection, denominated
by us a house, is made use of by them, in some
such manner as we use a pantry or a trunk, to pre
serve food or wearing apparel. The bower, in
which the mistress of the house sleeps, is, how
ever, an exception ; but her boudoir must never
be approached, except upon sufferance, and with
feelings of profound respect. It has sometimes ap
peared to me extremely ludicrous, after supper, to
exchange with the family expressions of polished
courteousness, and then go in search of some
smooth spot under the trees whereon to enjoy my
slumbers ; often under such circumstances have I
wished to share the couch of the Fairy-queen as
described in the " Midsummer Night's dream."
I have had an opportunity of becoming ac
quainted with man in almost every degree of civili
zation, from the mere savage to the polished citizen,
and have regarded him under the most favourable
circumstances. I have seen him enjoying a climate
so mild as to admit of his sleeping in the open air,
living in a land where the soil is fertile ; where
fruits are abundant, and where the rudest attempt
in planting seed will produce a harvest : yet, with all
these advantages, uncultivated man is but a single

72 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
remove from the irrational creation. He loiters
away his existence without any fixed pursuit ; and
for many hours in succession, will listlessly stretch
himself on the ground. His mind is in a state of
torpidity ; his ideas are chiefly those that enter
through the senses; and, consequently, he is ac
customed to follow blindly the first impulse of
animal desires. The tender emotions which sooth
and tranquillize the soul, under the refining influ
ence of civilization, are to him unknown. The
ceaseless current of those nameless endearments
that sweeten life and deepen love is unfelt by him.
His gross nature cannot live on the breath of words
as yet unspoken, or upon thoughts almost echoed
before they are expressed. The range within which
his emotions are confined, extends but little beyond
the sphere of animal instinct. If the duration of
man's days were measured by the intensity of his
existence, by the boundless world of thought through
which he ranges, or by the exhaustless treasury of
emotions produced by the cultivation of the senses,
then in a highly polished state of society, he might
be said to exist for centuries, while the uncivilized
nature, would scarcely outlive as many days.
Before sunrise, next morning, we were fast ap
proaching the river Gualeguay, which we crossed in
a ferry-boat, causing our horses to swim over.
The first object which arrested my attention, on
stepping ashore, was a naked man; in an instant

///- HERDS OF WILD CATTLE. 73
another appeared, and then a third, and a fourth.
Upon recovering from my surprise, I perceived a
large troop of horses approaching, which solved
the mystery. They were the disabled animals, sent
back from the army, then fighting in Corrientes.
It was the business of these men to drive them across
the river, which was done by 'dividing them into
small troops, and goading them into the water.
The scene was one of extreme wildness ; the men
were expert swimmers and amused themselves in
plunging from the back of one horse to the tail
of another, alternately swimming, diving, and
shouting. On the third day, after leaving the town of Pa
rana, we crossed an uninhabited district of forty or
fifty miles in extent, which afforded pasture to im
mense herds of cattle and wild horses, whose flight
at our approach presented an imposing scene.
A herd of wild horses is peculiarly striking; their
fine forms, free action, and fiery speed ; their full
flowing manes and tails waving in the breeze, com
bine to exhibit a picture of animal grace and beauty ;
as they rushed past in a body, at a bounding gallop,
tossing their crests in the moonlight, the tramp of
their hoofs shaking the ground, the impression pro
duced on my mind was of a romantic character,
nearly approaching sublimity.
The town of Concordia, on the river Uruguay,
is likely to become one of importance ; but the site

74 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
is badly chosen ; at low water, vessels are obliged
to anchor two miles from the town, although,
when the tide rises, they can approach within
one mile. About twelve years since, a few huts
served to contain the whole of the population, which
now amounts to about a thousand souls. The
houses are nearly all built of sticks, plastered with
mud, and thatched with grass ; very few are erected
with brick. Until lately, there was an establish
ment for the manufacture of tallow, but it is now in
disuse ; the steam-engine and vats are, however,
still on the premises. Concordia possesses a very
unassuming church, also a large and well-built
school-house which is endowed by government.
The town is very badly supplied with water. On
the opposite side of the river is the town of Salta ;
and about four leagues farther up is the cascade
named Salta Grande. Having heard it much
praised, I went to see it ; but returned greatly
disappointed. A ledge of shelving rocks occupies the whole bed
of the river, for about a quarter of a mile, which
is there about three hundred yards wide. In one
or two places, the water, when the river is lowest,
forms narrow channels ; looking at it from a dis
tance, a traveller would suppose it could be crossed
on foot. The scenery in this part of the country
is the most picturesque I have as yet seen ; for al
though the undulations do not deserve the name of

Ill * beaumont's association. 75
hills; yet they are sufficiently abrupt and defined to
vary the character of the landscape. Palm-trees
abound throughout the district.
In the year 1825, an association was formed in
England, under the auspices of Mr. Beaumont of
London, for the purpose of colonizing a district of
land to the south of this town ; one hundred and
fifteen leagues were purchased ; and two or three ves
sels were sent out, carrying settlers, and laden with
agricultural implements, together with other neces
sary goods ; but after a very considerable outlay, the
undertaking was abandoned. Some of the property,
however, fell into the hands of other British sub
jects. There is one very valuable estancia, belonging
to Mr. Campbell in company with Messrs. Wright
and Parlane of Manchester ; it contains an area of
about 90,000 English acres ; the whole forming a
splendid sheep-walk. Vessels, bound for Europe,
may take in cargoes of wool direct from the pasture
grounds. This part of the province has suffered
terribly from civil wars : not only in having been
the field of battle, but also in being exposed to
the predatory incursions of the Corrientinos, who
have driven away many thousand sheep, and count
less herds of cattle. They have, however, been
lately subdued by the Buenos Ayrean army, and
the province is again annexed to the Argentine
Confederation. We left the estancia of Mr. Campbell late in the

76 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
evening, and reached the town of Arroya de la
China the next night ; part of our way was through
a country thickly studded with palm-trees, which
appear to flourish on sandy soil. The cattle,
wild deer, and ostriches, looked extremely beau
tiful under the shade of these groves of palms,
whose branches were ornamented by noisy parrots
in great abundance.
The town of Arroya de la China, now called
the town of Uruguay, is situated on the river of
the same name. It has the appearance of an
old settlement ; but looks ruinous and neglected :
it covers a large space; the houses are very far
asunder, and the vacant ground, although intended
for gardens, is overgrown with weeds. Most of
the dwellings are built with sticks and mud, and
have thatched roofs ; although some are firmly built
with azoteas. The population is about two thou
sand. The town boasts a plaza ; in the centre of
which stands a pyramid, rapidly falling into decay.
At no great distance is the church partially enclosed
by ruined fences ; in another direction may be seen
a windmill, also in ruins. Five small schooners
were lying in the harbour ; they can haul close to
the bank, and take in their cargo. The Governor,
General Urquiza, has a large saladero near the
town, managed by a Frenchman. There are not
many foreigners in Uruguay : a few Italians and
Frenchmen, but no English are to be met with.

/// _ MARKING OF CATTLE FORBIDDEN. 77
After leaving the town of Uruguay, we passed
through a country overrun with cattle and horses,
both extremely wild. One estancia of a hundred
square leagues, belonging to Don M. Garcia, is
supposed to contain a hundred thousand horned
cattle, and fifty thousand horses. Adjoining this
estancia is another of about eighty square leagues,
the property of Don I. Elaia.
The cause of this province being overrun with
wild cattle may be briefly explained. When the
recent quarrel with Monte Video assumed an
alarming appearance, General Urquiza, the Go
vernor, raised a large army, and marched into that
territory as the friend and ally of General Rosas.
Upon this occasion, his troops reminded him that,
during their absence, their neighbours would steal
their unmarked cattle, and fix upon them their own
brand. To prevent this evil, he issued a decree,
forbidding the marking of cattle ; but this measure
in obviating one evil, gave rise to another ; for, as
time rolled on, several estancieros found that from
the natural increase of the animals, they became so
numerous as to be ungovernable by their owners ;
each man's cattle became mixed with his neigh
bour's ; and none being marked, the greatest confu
sion ensued. Some had either eaten, or lost all
their marked animals, and they dared not to kill
an animal that was unmarked. To remedy this
latter evil, a decree was issued, stating that those

78 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
who were compelled to kill unmarked cattle might
do so, provided they gave notice of their necessity
to a magistrate, who was duly ordered to grant
them permission to kill for the maintenance of their
household. And, strange as it may appear, many
who looked round upon their own immense estates,
covered with thousands and tens of thousands of
their own animals, dared not to kill so much as a
single calf to satisfy the wants of their household,
without first obtaining permission.
Upon the cessation of the war in the Banda Ori
ental, General Urquiza returned home, and disbanded
his army. Orders were then given for the marking
of cattle; but in consequence of the thinness of the
population, and the wildness of the animals, this
was not an easy task. In the northern part of the
province, some found that they had no cattle to
mark, as the Corrientes had made frequent in
cursions, driving away all the animals which they
met with. Armies crossing and re-crossing, like
so many locusts, added to the devastation, until
finally, ruin and desolation universally prevailed.
When the proprietors of one English property
turned out to collect their herds, they found little
more than a thousand bulls. It appears that cows ,
will submit to be driven off the lands, while the
bulls will not move ; the soldiers also will not think
of eating bull-beef ; hence the number of bulls on
the property to which I refer.

/// „ PRICE OF HORSES. 79
About the same time, the General, both on his
own account, and in connection with others, esta
blished several saladeros, and premises for the
manufacture of tallow, but the price he gave for
the cattle scarcely left a penny to their owners
after paying the expenses of collecting and deliver
ing the animals ; his price for horses was from four
to six shillings each, according to their size and
fatness, and the length of hair on the mane and
tail. There have been cases where Britsh subjects
have employed upwards of five-and-twenty men
well mounted, to catch wild horses ; the wages
of these men, however, have exceeded the market
price ofthe animals.
Horned cattle are more easily subdued. If
forty or fifty men, well mounted, turn out at
daylight, they can, before night, collect into one
immense herd three or four thousand animals,
which, with some skill, may be driven to a slaugh
tering-yard, and killed within a few days.
But the climax of desolation on the estancieros
of Entre Rios is yet to be recorded. In 1846 there
was a great drought ; the grass was burned up, and
the whole of the cattle in the province moved off
their own pastures, in search of food and water.
Some lost 5,000 animals, some 10,000, some 50,000 ;
and on one English estancia in the south, it is cal
culated that 150,000 animals wandered from their
pasture, became dispersed over the province, and

80 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
can never again yield one farthing to their owners.
But the animals have not left the province ; they
still form a portion of the national wealth. And now,
by a fiction of law, as there are no owners for them,
being unmarked, they will become a derelict to the
government ; the greater part of the enormous
wealth they will produce is likely to pass into the
treasury. This promising state of the revenue has put the
poorer class of people into high spirits, for it is
thought that the soldiers, some of whom have been
in the service from two to six years, will now receive
fifteen or twenty dollars each, as the reward of their
exertions during the period of their service. These
militia troops, when summoned by the authorities
to serve, must find their own clothing and their own
saddles. While in active service they receive beef
as a necessary, and yerba and tobacco as luxuries.
Instead of glowing with warmth upon the receipt of
a money reward, they must rejoice in having the
honour to fight for their country ! glory, and not
money, being their wages. Their poverty tempts
them to acts of theft ; but General Urquiza, their
governor and chieftain, has the greatest horror of
thieves ; and so determined is he to put an end to
theft, that the moment a thief is taken, he is usually
put to death.
After a ride of about fifteen leagues, we reached
the house of Mr. Alexander, with whom we halted

Hi "* GUALEGUAY CHU. 81
for the night ; he rents four square leagues of land,
as a sheep walk. The usual rent is ten pounds per
annum, per square league (about 6,000 acres), every
inch of which is ready for the plough. Next morn
ing we rode into Gualeguay Chu. This, like
every other town in the province, is in a bad
position. The river on which it is situated joins the
Uruguay, at a distance of three leagues ; there is
a bar at its mouth, and vessels drawing not more
than six feet of water, are sometimes two or three
weeks in crossing. The town has, however, a. very
prosperous appearance : new well-built houses are
springing up rapidly ; and the inhabitants enter
tain hopes of greatly increasing in number. The
population is about 2,500, of whom about 300 are
foreigners, chiefly Basques and Italians ; with,
perhaps, from twenty to thirty English. The town
contains a neat little church, and a good school-
house ; it has also four establishments for the
manufacture of tallow.
Upon leaving the Gualeguay Chu, we at once
entered upon a beautiful country, well wooded and
watered, but thinly peopled. During a thunder
storm, while riding at a tremendous pace, I sud
denly came upon an ostrich that appeared to be
maimed, but as I dismounted he took flight, and I
perceived a nest of forty-one eggs. There is but
little doubt that several female ostriches deposit
their eggs in the same nest : I knew an instance in
VOL. II. G

82 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
which twenty-one eggs were found in a nest, all
deposited within three or four days. The male
bird, either entirely or in part, performs the duty of
incubation. A few hours' pleasant ride brought us to the
town of Gualeguay, where we obtained accommo
dation with a French confectioner. This town is
situated on a river of the same name, but vessels
cannot approach nearer than three leagues ; it is
about the same size as the town last mentioned,
and numbers among its inhabitants three hundred
Basques and Italians, also about a dozen English.
There are several English estancias on this side of
the province ; and the largest extent of territory
belonging to any British subject in this part of the
world is to be found here : the family of Mrs.
Brittain, I believe of Sheffield; possesses two
hundred square leagues of land, including a good
port. The estimated number of cattle upon her territory
three years ago, was about two h undred and fifty thou
sand, worth about fifty thousand pounds sterling.
Owing, however, to the disorganized state of the
province, labourers could not be procured to keep
them tame, nor would the government allow them
to be slaughtered. The consequence has been,
that during the drought of last year, it is calculated
that one hundred and fifty thousand animals left
their pastures, and are for ever lost to their owners,

11/ ~ TWO DANGEROUS ROUTES. 83
Fortunes, in this province, " come like shadows, so
depart." At this point, I became extremely perplexed in
the choice between two routes for the continuation
of my journey. One course was to proceed by water
to some near point in the province of Buenos
Ayres ; the other was to take a guide, and cross
all the streams, rivers, and islands, that separate
us from the bank of the Parana, opposite to To-
nelero, where I might cross the river in a ferry
boat. Upon consulting with the Commandante, he
recommended a passage by water, and represented
the other course not only as extremely dangerous,
but almost impracticable ; one danger to which we
should be exposed, being the attacks of deserters,
who infest this district, robbing whenever they had
an opportunity : only a few days before, a gang of
seven had been arrested, and instantly put to death
by their captors ; and we might probably pass
the spot where their bodies remained, unless they.
were already eaten by the tigers, or birds of prey.
I maturely weighed the disadvantages of both routes ;
and as the passage by water might involve a vexa
tious delay of several days, I at length decided upon
crossing the islands; which could be done in two
days with great ease.
Accompanied by two guides, who, as well as
myself, were well armed, and well mounted, I
left Gualeguay. Our way generally lay through

84 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
what may be called jungle; which is the usual
place of shelter for tigers. At sunset on the
day after our departure, we came in sight of the
Parana-pabon, and continued to force our way along
its bank for about two hours, when we reached the
ferry station. This ferry is maintained for the pur
pose of facilitating the conveyance of the govern
ment despatches between the provinces of Entre
Rios and Buenos Ayres ; a duty which is entrusted
to two or three soldiers. The moon was shining
brightly, as we lay down to sleep for the night on
the river's bank. Although a hard day's ride under
a hot sun had fatigued me much, yet the musquitoes
were such an annoyance that I despaired of getting
any rest. Our watch-fire, however, was seen by the
men from the opposite side, who soon reached us
with their boats, and at once broke up our bivouac;
though only to resume it, on the other side of the
river. Carpinchas were extremely numerous here. This
amphibious animal has always been represented as
similar to the hog ; hence it has been called the water-
hog : but there cannot be a greater misnomer. I had
the opportunityof examining one that lay dead on the
bank: it had all the appearance of a small brown
bear, with the exception of its head, which is very
similar to the head of a biscache already described.
Although these animals run quickly, their motion is
very similar to that of a bear ; when alarmed, they

r^B

ff) „ MODE OF CROSSING RIVERS. 85
make a noise something between a grunt and a
bark. Next morning we obtained fresh horses from the
soldiers, and soon reached the River Los Nornillos,
at that place about a hundred and fifty yards wide.
Our guides in a few minutes swam the horses over,
and recrossed the river alone. A little square, tray
like canoe, called a balsa, was then formed, by tying
the corners of a square piece of dry hide together ;
it was about three feet long, two and a half wide, and
six inches deep. Into this our baggage was put,
and the whole conveyed across in three trips : the
little bark, after receiving its full cargo, being carried
down to the water and launched ; one of the men
swam across, towing it after him. When all our
luggage was safe, we also swam across, sending our
clothes in the balsa.
An hour's ride brought us to the River Perdido,
which we crossed in the same way. The next river
we reached, was the Sacar-calzon (take off your
trousers), which, as its name imports, was fordable,
although rather deep. In the afternoon we reached
the River Las Lecheguanas, which we crossed with
the balsa. ' The sun was extremely hot ; and al
though I remained for a long time in the river, it
was with great reluctance I left its cooling streams :
twice I began to dress, but was tempted to enjoy
another plunge.
Upon leaving this river, we commenced our jour-

86 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
ney across the island Lecheguanas, which we found
most harassing ; the gigantic weeds, which were tall
and matted together, rendering our progress slow
and difficult : sometimes the horses could scarcely
find an opening to admit their heads, the rider being
compelled to stoop and guide himself through their
entangled branches. In about two hours we were
gladdened by the lofty sails of a schooner, which we
saw passing down the River Parana ; and shortly
after, we reached its banks. We fired a gun as a
signal, which was recognized ; and a boat pushed off
from the opposite shore to convey us across. We
were then within sixty leagues of the city of Buenos
Ayres, which we approached on the evening of the
second day after our departure. Before entering
the city, I enjoyed a few days' delightful repose in
the society of Mr. and Mrs. Kearns, at their estancia.
I have reason to be thankful to Providence that
not the slightest accident occurred, either to myself
or my companions, during this long and perilous
journey ; although we had to be content with every ¦
horse supplied us, whether tame or wild.
Our journey had been 567 leagues in extent, the
time occupied was within two months, and the whole
expenses amounted to little more than sixty pounds
sterling. The rate of charges in the province of
Buenos Ayres is one paper dollar per league for
each horse, including the horse of the postillion. In
the provinces of Santa Fe and Cordova, it is half

/// -

RATE OF TRAVELLING.

a silver real per league for each horse. We
were thirty-six days in the saddle, making the fol
lowing stages daily ; which are here enumerated to
show the rate of travelling along the roads with
post-horses.

1847.

November 22
17
leagues
.. 51
miles.
»»
23 ...
15
,»
.. 45
»
)>
24 ...
14
i,
.. 42
)»
n
25 ...
22
m
.. 66
11
•>•>
29 ...
. 16
!»
.. 48
11
?»
30 ...
. 13
»»
.. 39
11
December
2 ...
13
51
.. 39
11
•>¦>
3
. 26
»
.. 78
11
15
4 ...
4
1)
.. 12
11
51
11
. 10
»)
.. 30
si
1»
12 ...
15
n
.. 45
11
¦)•)
13 ...
19
jt
... 57
11
)»
14 ...
10
»
.. 30
j,
)'
15 ...
17
>!
.. 51
11
U
16 ...
9
1»
.. 27
»
1>
23 ...
. 7
J»
.. 21
11
51
24 ...
18
)»
.. 54
11
)>
25 ...
12
»
.. 36
11
»1
26 ...
19
»
.. 57
11
»!
27 ...
15
» •
.. 45
1»
J1
28
10
« " •
.. 30
1)
1848.
January
3 ...
. 19
»
.. 57
11
»
4 ...
18
»
.. 54
11
«
5 ...
. 29
« •
... 87
11
D
6 ...
. 4
» •
. .. 12
11
M
7 ...
. 17
» •
... 51
51
88

THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.

January 9  7 leagues
10 .... 25
12 .... 20
„ 13 ... . 9 „
14 .... 16 „
15 .... 13
17 .... 16
18 .... 16
19 .... 33
20 .... 24
Journey through the"] 
south of the province 567 „
of Buenos Ayres, but ¦ 208 „
of which I did not 
keep a daily record J 775 „

21

miles.

75

55

60

1,

27
55
48
51
39
55
48
55
48
55
99
55
72
51
1,701 624
3155
2,325
FIRST BRITISH SETTLERS. 89

CHAPTER IV.
First British traders and settlers — English society— Intercourse
with the native population — Probable influence of the de
scendants of English settlers — Educational and religious
institutions of the English-German Church — Scotch settlers
at Monte Grande, their churches and schools— Educational
decree, and its injurious consequences — British hospital and
libraries — English and Scotch dissenters — American Me
thodists — Protestant cemetery.

From the earliest period, British subjects have fre
quented the River Plate, both as traders and smug
glers ; and time was, when they had also a mono
poly of the slave-trade, secured to them by their ex
tended organization on the coast of Africa. It is
easy to conceive what tales of enterprise, what cruel
sufferings, and what instances of daring adventure,
would diversify the annals of those lawless times,
if it were possible to collect them ; yet few circum
stances would wear a more remarkable aspect than
the first arrival of English women in this territory.

90 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
The Lady Shore sailed from England in August,
1797, bound for Botany Bay, having on board 119
convicts, the greater number of whom were females.
This vessel was guarded by French emigrants and
deserters, on account of the paucity of regular
troops then in England. When off the mouth of
the River Plate, the prisoners mutinied, over
powered their guard, and, after murdering some
of the crew, brought the ship into Monte Video,
where they enfranchised themselves, and sold the
vessel as a prize. Such were the characters — prin
cipally smugglers, pirates, and convicted felons —
who came before the natives as the representatives
of British subjects, at a time when their intercourse
with foreign nations was tabooed by the Spanish
government. A few years subsequently, the invasion of the
country by British troops, the particulars of which
are detailed hereafter, in our historical sketch,
made the natives acquainted with another class
of our countrymen. The political and commercial
intercourse of the succeeding revolutionary period,
however, began a new era ; and greatly increased
their knowledge of the English character. The
special encouragement given to British colonists,
and the mining and land speculations which were
thus promoted and encouraged by the popular
government, caused a great influx of emigration
to the Rio de la Plata in the year 1825; and in-

jy. COMMERCIAL AND SOCIAL PROGRESS. 91
duced many respectable families to settle in the
country. Since then, the hopes of many have been
disappointed: the country has lost its attractions
as a field of emigration ; and if the admiring eyes of
Europe have not altogether disregarded its shores,
they have gazed with pity upon its domestic
convulsions. And yet, notwithstanding many
disheartening circumstances, commercial intercourse
with England has been on the increase, and English
homes still gladden the shore of the Plate River.
The termination of the blockade by the French in
1840, and the known vigour of the government of
General Rosas, gave to all foreigners the strongest
hopes that a long continuance of peace would com
pensate for the losses and vexations which they had
previously suffered. Those who remained during the
blockade, began again with renewed hope to address
themselves to commercial pursuits, while a large
influx of immigrants enriched the country with
their labour. The four succeeding years were
highly prosperous, and showed the innate strength
and powerful resources of the country. During
this period of prosperity, the state of society was
not only agreeable, but its morale was steadily
rising to a higher standard, and, generally speak
ing, an improved tone was manifest in social in
tercourse. Intemperance was discouraged ; the sight
of an inebriated guest, first became rare, and soon
altogether ceased. Many new arrivals also en-

92 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
larged the circle of British residents ; and if the
mutual pleasure and advantage derived by the Eng
lish themselves from this circumstance, has not ex
tended to the native population, so as to render
their intercourse with our countrymen as genial as
could be desired, the latter must in truth be told
that they have only themselves to blame.
This remark may be open to some exception,
since many estimable and highly respectable men
have intermarried with native ladies. It cannot he
said, however, that such matrimonial connections
are frequent ; notwithstanding the thoroughly
amiable qualities of the native ladies, which are
acknowledged by all. The remark made in every
other part of the world, is also made by the Buenos
Ayreans, that, of all the people who roam the
earth, the English exhibit the most unbending ad
herence to their own habits ; and most carefully
avoid whatever would alter their manners and
customs. Where it occurs, the addition of those
native ladies and their connections renders the
tertulias (evening parties) of the English more
varied and agreeable ; and cements the link that
binds the native to the foreign population. One
reason why such intimacy is not more general,
arises from the difference of language; English
ladies feeling no inclination to become Spanish
students. Both parties lose by such estrangement.
A closer union would induce natives to lay aside

|«/. REPULSIVE MANNERS OF THE ENGLISH. 93
that polite pliancy of assent which makes conver
sation insipid ; while the English, in receiving a little
more polish, would also acquire what many never
attain — a knowledge of the people by whom they
are surrounded. It must be confessed and la
mented, that the manners of the English are
somewhat distasteful. Some affect to look down
on the natives with an air of superiority, and seem
to expect that they should, with a becoming hu
mility, look up to them. In this respect they
greatly deceive themselves. The respectable por
tion of the native population fully recognize the
real worth of our countrymen ; but regard their cold
manners as resulting from ignorance of the world,
or from ill-breeding. They consider the English
excellent merchants, and good citizens ; but the
worst specimens of European cultivation. So
highly, indeed, do the natives value politeness,
that the ladies, even to this day, are fond of
reverting to the polite and elegant bearing of
Lady Ponsonby, who delighted them with the
dignity and affability of her address.
The children born in Buenos Ayres of English
parents, form a subject of intense interest in our
reflections on the future prospects of these coun
tries ; for undoubtedly the tone of society in future
years must be greatly influenced by them. If
liberally and religiously educated, and bound to
tho soil by the natural love of country, they must

94 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
exercise a powerful and salutary influence on the
destiny of the nation, when the course of events
and social progress shall permit. They, above all
others, who are habitually trained to peaceful and per
severing industry, may serve to check that unquiet
spirit which seems inherent in the Iberian race, and
which has been manifest from its first mention in
history to the present hour. It will be a matter of
some interest, therefore, to trace the progress of the
English population in securing to themselves the
blessings of education and religion.
In the year 1824, Sir W. Parish, the consul-
general, in a letter addressed to the government of
Mr. Canning, made the following representation : " I
have already mentioned that the number of British
subjects in Buenos Ayres and its neighbourhood,
is estimated at from two to three thousand persons ;
with very few exceptions they are all Protestants,
and as such have no place of public worship to
resort to in this country ; their marriages, christen
ings, and burials, are performed in the most irre
gular manner. It is only very recently that they
have been allowed any Christian burial, and that
this Government has been induced to permit Protes
tants to bury their own dead." At the time this
communication reached home, the ministry were
preparing a bill for the maintenance of certain
charitable acts in foreign ports where British subjects
might be residing. This bill came into operation in

I V- FIRST PROTESTANT CHURCH. 95
July, 1825, and it empowered the treasury to pay
one-half the expense of maintaining public worship,
cemetries, and hospitals, in such ports ; provided the
residents paid the other half.
In the year 1825, the Rev. John Armstrong
arrived in Buenos Ayres, as an Agent from the
British and Foreign Bible Society, having a large
supply of Bibles for distribution. About the time
of his arrival, the treaty between Great Britain and
these provinces was completed, by which liberty of
conscience was secured to British subjects. In con
sequence of this measure, a private Roman Catholic
chapel, which had passed into lay hands, was at once
rented, and the first Protestant congregation pub
licly assembled therein for worship. Immediately
after, a memorial was forwarded to the Home
Government, requesting that Mr. Armstrong might
be appointed as their permanent minister. The
compliance of the Government with this request
being in due time communicated, a general meeting,
which had been publicly announced, was held in
Sept. 1826, when the income of the clergyman was
fixed at 8001. per annum, one half being paid by
the congregation, the other half by the British
Government. Public worship was continued under
these circumstances until the early part of 1830,
when the congregation applied to the Government
of Buenos Ayres for a building site, in order to
erect a large and handsome edifice ; their present

96 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCKS.
meeting-house having always been insufficient for
their accommodation. Their application was re
ceived with much courtesy, and a piece of ground,
originally belonging to the Merced church, was
presented to the committee of management by order
of General Rosas, who was then for the first time
in office.
The foundation stone was laid in April 1830, and
the church opened for public worship in March
1831. This handsome edifice, which is said to be
a design from the Temple at Ephesus, is capable of
seating from 500 to 600 persons. The cost of the
undertaking was nearly 4,000Z., one half of which
was subscribed by the congregation, and the other
by the British Government.
Shortly after its opening, a Sunday-school was
formed, which has, with some occasional interrup
tions, continued in existence to the present time;
but, owing to the want of teachers, is not very
prosperous. The congregation had always been
fully alive to the priceless value of education ; and
they well knew that the foundation of true religion
ought to be laid as early as possible in the minds of
children. Under this conviction, and duly im
pressed with a sense of their own responsibility to
the humbler classes of their fellow-subjects, in the
year 1 838 they procured the means of erecting a com
modious school-room, which adjoins the church.
A master, accompanied by his wife, being obtained

//- PROTESTANT CHURCH. 97
from England, this most important Christian
institution was brought into operation under
the especial superintendence of the minister,
assisted by an intelligent and active committee.
The original design was to supply exclusively
a free education to the poor, but at present,
although that intention is acted upon, other chil
dren are admitted upon payment. The average
attendance is about fifty. It is in contemplation
to provide similar accommodation for the educa
tion of girls.
The Rev. John Armstrong continued his ministe
rial labours until 1842, when he resigned his
charge, and returned to England. The Rev.
Barton Lodge was appointed his successor; he
remained five years, and, returning home in 1847,
was succeeded by the Rev. Henry M. Faulkner,
the present incumbent. The average attendance
is about two hundred and thirty persons. The
church has an excellent choir, and an organ.
A singular inconsistency, incidental to the use
of a liturgical service, occurs in the history of
this congregation. When the church was first
opened, a prayer for the government of Buenos
Ayres was introduced into the service. In the
course of events, therefore, the congregation might
have been heard, in the same act of worship, pray
ing for the prosperity of General Rosas, and of
Queen Victoria; and this at the very time when
VOL. II. H

98 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
her Majesty's arms were destroying the power and
prosperity of the General !
There is also a considerable body of Scotch
settlers in the city and province of Buenos Ayres,
the greater part of whom arrived in the years 1825
and 1826, in connection with the agricultural,
building, and mining speculations of Mr. Beaumont,
the Messrs. Robertson, and other parties. Of these
enterprises, the agricultural establishment, or Scotch
colony of Monte Grande, distant from the city
about five leagues, gave the highest promise ; from
a variety of causes, however, it had fallen into decay
by the end of the year 1828 ; and in the beginning
of the ensuing year, the progress of Lavelles' revo
lution completed its dissolution. The greater part
of the colonists then removed to the city, where they
remained till the conclusion of the revolutionary
contest; after which they gradually found their
way back again to the country, settling in various
parts of the province, but chiefly in the neigh
bourhood of Monte Grande. Eventually the steady
and industrious have risen to comfort and inde
pendence, and a considerable number of farms,
from half a league to a league square, are the
property of men who came out in the capacity of
farm servants. Their numbers, perhaps, are not
greater now than at first, and including town and
country, may be about one thousand. Since 1825,
indeed, there have been new arrivals, but not more

/V- SCOTCH COLONY OF MONTE GRANDE. 99
than sufficient to fill up the places of those who
have died or gone to reside elsewhere. During all
this period, they have not intermarried to any extent
with the native inhabitants ; and, though separated
hy great distances from each other, they have
maintained their distinctive social habits, as also
their educational and religious character. In ac
cordance with the latter, it is customary for one or
more families, in conjunction, to provide a teacher
for their children.
The original projectors of the various associations
which led to the Scotch settlement, do not seem to
have thought of the religious interests of the emi
grants. But at a later period the matter was
brought before Mr. Robertson, who took imme
diate measures to obtain a minister who should be
willing to act in the capacity of a schoolmaster
also. This desirable object was not accomplished
until the year 1827, when the Rev. Wm. Brown
(now deservedly distinguished by the title of a
Doctor of Divinity) arrived in the province and
established both a church and school. For a year
after his arrival, the colony of Monte Grande pre
sented .the interesting and complete resemblance of
a Scottish country parish. At the breaking up of
the colony towards the end of 1828, Dr. Brown
removed to Buenos Ayres, where, for some months,
he attended worship, with many of his countrymen,
at the English Episcopal Church ; preaching every

100 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
Sabbath, however, to the few who still abode at
Monte Grande. A separate chapel was at length
opened in 1829, and the colonists having by that
time been forced to abandon their settlement, the
performance of divine service was confined to the
city. After the close of the revolution, many of the
settlers returned to the country, and the services
of Dr. Brown were divided between the two con
gregations — an arrangement maintained for several
years. Meantime, the Presbyterians of Buenos Ayres
began to consider themselves justified, by their
numbers and the acceptance of their worship, in
erecting a church ; and, with this object in view,
they applied to the British Government for the aid
provided by the Consular Act : already referred
to in the case of the English. After surmounting
many difficulties and much opposition in the pro
secution of this purpose, their church was built in
1835, and opened in connection with the British
Government, on the basis of the Consular Act of
Parliament. It is a handsome and beautifully-
proportioned edifice, providing accommodation for
about 400 persons; but the extent of countrv over
which the Scottish residents are scattered, presents
a great obstacle to the regularity of their attendance
on public worship. One-half of the congregation
may be considered as settled in the country ; and
to accommodate them as far as possible, meetings

(V. THE PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH — DR. BROWN. 101
are held for divine service at two stations once a
month during the summer. A Sunday-school, to
which a small library is attached, has been always
maintained by the congregation of Buenos Ayres ;
it has an attendance of from twenty to fifty children.
An association has also lately been formed, in con
nection with the church, for charitable and reli
gious purposes ; chiefly aiming to bring within its
influence the whole Scottish population. Its prac
tical objects are to provide for the poor, to aid them
in the education of their children, to establish a con
gregational library of permanent and standard works,
and to promote the circulation in town and country
of cheap periodicals, both religious and literary.
It is impossible to record these facts, and many
others mentioned in this chapter, without acknow
ledging, in a special manner, the persevering and
judicious labours of the Rev. Dr. Brown, during a
period of twenty-one years. To him the Scottish
population owe the greatest obligations ; their reli
gious instruction, education, and social happiness,
having absorbed the whole of his time. The
beneficial influence that such a man produces on
society, can never be known in its full extent.
Who can estimate the good continually resulting
from the institutions formed by his labours ? Who
can estimate the good which is done in so many
ways by a blameless and pious Christian pastor,
dwelling in a strange land for one-and-twenty

102 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
years ? May he long live to be a blessing to his
countrymen, and an ornament to the church of
Christ ! Dr. Brown is at present in Scotland.
A public school, designated the British and
Foreign school, and supported by subscription, was
established at Buenos Ayres in the beginning of
1827, for the benefit of all children speaking the
English language. The teacher had been origi
nally a parochial schoolmaster in Ayrshire, and
was highly qualified. It flourished for a time
under his management; but he very soon retired;
and though it continued till the year 1838 under
various other teachers, it never recovered its original
importance. Although general education was always an object
of consideration with Dr. Brown and his elders,
they were not in circumstances to provide for it
permanently until 1838. An effort which proved
successful was then made to raise the necessary
funds ; a convenient school-room, capable of accom
modating upwards of 100 children, was built, and
a highly-qualified trainer procured from the Glas
gow Normal Seminary. Till 1844, the institution
prospered, and daily grew in usefulness. By its
means, together with the weekly Bible and Sunday-
school classes, not fewer than 150 of the youth of
the community were brought under the influence of
the most improved education, and of a regular
course of religious training. Arrangements were

'V- GERMAN SETTLERS. 103
likewise made in connection with this seminary,
for the instruction of children belonging to the
Protestant Germans (who were as yet without a
pastor) ; and from twenty to thirty were collected
under a German teacher. The means of raising
the current expenses of all these labours was partly
by school fees, and partly by subscriptions. Some
time ago, however, a bequest was made to the
establishment, which would yield an annual in
come of about forty pounds.
Having mentioned the natives of Germany, we may
observe that they are about eight hundred in number,
and that they began to arrive in the year 1826, under
the patronage, and during the administration of Rira-
davia. As in other parts ofthe world where they have
formed settlements, they are occupied industriously
both in the city and country ; the majority, how
ever, reside in and around the town. About one
half are Roman Catholics, the other half Protes
tants. In the year 1 842, the latter adopted means
to form themselves into a congregation, and to ob
tain a pastor ; for which purpose subscriptions were
raised and a committee of management appointed.
These efforts being attended with success, an ap
plication was made to the " Evangelical Society for
America" in Bremen, by whom their present pastor,
the Rev. A. L. Siegel, was selected. After his
arrival, the congregation resolved to become annexed
to the United Evangelical church of Prussia ; and

104 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
their application, with this purpose in view, to the
ecclesiastical government of that state, being fa
vourably received, they now form a branch of that
church under the denomination of the " German
Evangelical Church." Their government at home,
in conformity with the will of the congregation
at Buenos Ayres, charges itself with the duty of
electing and sending out pastors. The usual attend
ance at church on the sabbath-day is from sixty to
a hundred persons. All the expenses of the congre
gation are paid by voluntary subscription ; and be
sides this responsibility they have established a
school in connection with their church, which is
attended by about forty pupils. It is pleasing to add
that when their pastor first arrived, they assembled
for public worship in the English church, kindly
granted to them for that purpose. Afterwards they
hired a house, where they fitted up one room as a
chapel, and another for a school ; and here they
continue to assemble, until circumstances shall per
mit the erection of a church upon the ground which
they have already bought for the purpose. All the
Germans who are industrious are well off, there
being no poor but those who are deservedly so.
The schools and classes connected with the various
Protestant churches were in the highest state of
efficiency and usefulness, when the Government
issued the following decree on the subject of educa
tion ; by which, as will be seen, no other public

W" EDUCATIONAL DECREE. 105
teaching was sanctioned than the Roman Catholic.
This decree is dated 26th May, 1844, and its pro
visions run thus : —
" Art. 1. — No persons shall be able to open col
leges, or schools, nor be directors, preceptors, mas
ters, or assistants, in public education, either under
the charge of the State, or of private parties, who
have not previously obtained permission from the
Government, with a letter of citizenship if foreigners ;
and giving satisfactory proofs to the Government
that they possess morality, and virtue, profess the
holy Roman Catholic faith, and adhere firmly to the
national cause of the Argentine Confederation, and
possess sufficient knowledge, and capacity (for the
office). " Art. 2. — The permission and proof of capa
bility, it shall be necessary and indispensable to
renew at the end of every year, without which their
establishments for public education cannot continue
open, neither can they exercise the office of pre
ceptors, masters, or assistants.
" Art. 3. — The directors, preceptors, masters,
assistants, and pupils, shall use the federal device,
according to the established order." [This device or
motto, is a red ribbon, worn either round the hat,
or on the breast, bearing these words, "Viva la
federacion Argentina ; mueran los salvajos uni-
tarios." " Live the Argentine confederation ; death to
the savage Unitarians ! " The interpretation to this

106 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
motto, is given elsewhere in my interviews with
General Rosas.]
It had long been understood that foreign schools, ¦;
those at least connected with the Protestant churches,
were exempt from the control of the government,
while they did not admit native children ; but these
schools were now closed in the name of the law, and
their usefulness was completely destroyed. After
some months, indeed, and as a special act of grace,
license was granted to re- open them; but with such
conditions as rendered the privilege of little com
parative value : not only were native children for
bidden these schools, but the children of all RomaD
Catholics, although British subjects, as well as the
children of mixed marriages ; besides which the
license granted in any case was required to be re
newed annually. By another decree of 1846, the
whole education of the community was placed under
the inspection of commissioners, charged to see that
public instruction was strictly conformable not only
with the Roman Catholic faith, but with the political
system of government then in being.
The natural effect of this interference on the part
ofthe authorities was to discourage qualified teachers,
and impede the progress of liberal and comprehen
sive ideas among the people. The advancement
of general knowledge and morality must ever go
hand in hand with freedom of thought upon poli
tical and religious matters. The man who desires

IV- PROTESTANT SCHOOLS INTERDICTED. 107
'to investigate the claims of religion is the man most
likely to discharge his duties as a subject and a
citizen. The law of mind also is progress; and
sooner or later, as it gains strength by exercise, it
will secure for itself the full range of its capabilities.
Those who endeavour to restrain its development
can only obtain even a temporary success at the ex
pense of the moral sense, as well as the intellectual
character of a people : the countries in Europe
which are now steeped in degradation, are precisely
those where freedom of thought has been denied to
the inhabitants, and where that allegiance which is
due alone to the Deity, has been usurped by an
earthly tribunal. The people of Buenos Ayres are
not likely to form any exception to this law. The
result already, as regards the Scotch school, has been
that Mr. W. Rea, a very talented trainer from the
Glasgow seminary, has removed to Monte Video,
while the numbers that now attend the day-school
do not exceed thirty.
In addition to the valuable institutions already
named, the British Friendly Society was called into
being in the year 1827. The objects of this charity,
which is supported by voluntary contributions, was
originally to afford relief to British subjects during
sickness, accidents, or other unavoidable contin
gencies ; to alleviate the sorrows of poor widows, to
shield destitute orphans ; also to provide medical
attendance, and to meet funeral expenses in certain

108 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
cases. In the year 1840, under the presidency of
the Rev. Dr. Brown, its character was changed,
and its exclusive object became the relief of desti
tute sick British subjects, under the denomination
of "the British Medical Dispensary." In the year
1847, a suitable piece of ground, together with a
house, was purchased for the purpose of establishing
an hospital. This benevolent undertaking was
mainly accomplished by the labours of the Rev.
Barton Lodge, aided by the well-known zeal and
influence of Dr. Maekenna.
In the year 1829, was formed the Buenos Ayrean
British Lending Library. This institution was
remodelled in 1839, and more permanently esta
blished by the sale of 50 shares at 51. each. The
proprietors' subscription is 150 paper dollars per
annum, and that of non-proprietors 200 dollars. It
contains 3,500 well-selected books.
The Union Library was also established hy
British subjects. Its institution commenced in 1831
by the sale of 80 shares, of 50 paper dollars each,
Proprietors pay an annual subscription of 70 paper
dollars, and non-proprietors 100 dollars. It con
tains 1 ,000 volumes, and is also a lending library.
So early as the year 1820, a few English dis
senters assembled together for the reading of the
scriptures, and social prayer. About the same
time Mr. Thompson, arriving as an agent from the
Rev. Mr. Haldane's church in Edinburgh, joined

IV. LENDING LIBRARIES AND BIBLE SOCIETY. 109
the little band, and aided by Mr. Tate, also a Scotch
dissenter, conducted their meetings for worship.
They formed a Bible Society, which went on pros
perously for some time, but which lost its chief sup
port, when Mr. Thompson returned to Scotland. In
1824, this Christian community received a valuable
accession in the arrival of Messrs. Parvin and Brig-
ham from the United States, as representatives
from the American Board of Missions, and from
the Bible societies. The latter pursued the object
of his mission by visiting the interior, while the
former remained in the city, conducting the public
services, rendered the more necessary as those who
assembled now began to assume the character of a
stated congregation. In 1826, Mr. Tory also arrived
from the United States upon a similar mission, and
became a fellow-labourer with Mr. Parvin. These
two gentlemen, however, finally returned home;
they were succeeded in 1836, by the Rev. Mr.
Pitts, and the Rev. Mr. Dempster, missionaries
from the Wesleyan Episcopal Methodists.
The increase of settlers from the United States
and Great Britain, was an inducement for Mr.
Dempster to return to America, in order to adopt
measures for the erection of a place of worship. In
this laudable enterprise he was signally successful ;
and, visiting Buenos Ayres for the purpose, he laid
the foundation of the present Methodist church, on
the 21st of January, 1842. The entire expense of

110 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
the edifice, together with a house for the minister, was
about 1 1,200 silver dollars (2,250?. sterling). Of this
sum 1,560 dollars were raised by the congregating
leaving 9,640 to be subscribed by the Missionary
Society in the United States. The building, which)
is universally admired for its neatness and comfort,
is sixty feet long, by forty feet wide. It was
opened for public worship on the 8th January,
1843, by the Rev. W. H. Norris.
Although the interests of this denomination have
been brought to their present state of organization
by the money and guidance of the Wesleyan Metho
dists, the members of that communion form only a
minority as compared with the remaining portion of
the congregation. Nearly all the resident British
subjects of dissenting tendencies unite with them in
public worship ; among whom are to be found Epis
copalians, Presbyterians, and Congregationalists, or
Independents : fully three-fifths of the whole being
settlers from Great Britain and Ireland. An attempt
to unite in the bonds of Christian brotherhood, so
many varied elements, and such a variety of polem
ical views, may be looked on with some apprehen
sion that discord or jealousies might take the place
of mutual confidence and Christian charity. Such
apprehensions, however, have hitherto, for the most
part, been groundless; for the good sense of the in
fluential members, sustained by the wisdom, discre
tion, and deep piety of their respected pastor, have

/Y» HARMONY OF PROTESTANTS. Ill
preserved the church in harmony and peace. The
intention to do good is also generally a sufficient
bond of union when the work is a practical one.
The Sunday school formed in connection with this
church has been singularly prosperous down to the
present moment. It numbers twelve intelligent
teachers, and a stated attendance of about sixty chil
dren, exclusive of adult Bible classes. There is also
a lending library containing five hundred volumes,
provided for the children, and another of about
one hundred and fifty volumes for adults, together
with a gratuitous distribution of several monthly
periodicals. The Rev. W. H. Norris, after a pas
torate of nearly five years, returned to America, and
was succeeded by the Rev. Dallas Lore. The con
gregation pays all the expenses, which amount to
about twelve hundred silver dollars annually.
There is yet another subject possessing some inte
rest in connection with the residence of English
and foreign subjects in Buenos Ayres. When these
provinces successfully declared their independence
in 1815, the British public began to view the coun
tries with a deepening interest, and many emigrants
arrived in the city with an intention of settling down
to some local industry. Although the Spanish popu
lation was well disposed towards Great Britain, and
appeared very desirous of cultivating relations of
amity and commerce, yet the early settlers at once
felt all the inconvenience to which, as Protestants,

112 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
they were exposed in a^ country just emerging 'from
political vassalage, and also strongly prejudiced
against those professing the reformed faith. The
first obstacle with which these settlers had to con
tend was in connection with sickness and death.
The friends of the deceased, being under the ban of
heresy, were forbidden to bury their dead within
the walls of the Catholic cemetery, and were
compelled to perform that last sad rite in some
retired place. Many were interred in the waste
grounds adjoining the Recoleta church, while others
found their last resting-place on the banks of the
river. But as the British population increased, the reli
gious prejudices ofthe natives gave way under more
charitable feelings; and in 1821 permission was
granted for the formation of a Protestant cemetery.
A piece of ground was then bought and enclosed near
the Retiro, and a small chapel annexed, with a neat
portico ofthe Doric order ; the whole outlay for which
was about £1,000, voluntarily subscribed by the
foreign Protestant population. Owing, however, to
the gradual increase of settlers, this plot of ground
soon became inconveniently full, and the necessity
of obtaining additional space was apparent.
Under these circumstances, an application was
made to the Government, and leave obtained to
seek further accommodation. An appropriate site
was at length selected by the managing committee.

IV- PROTESTANT CEMETERY. 113
The present cemetery was opened to the public in
the year 1834. It contains very nearly four English
acres, and is surrounded by a high wall, with a
handsome entrance ; close to which is the sexton's
lodge. In the centre stands a small chapel of
Gothic architecture. The grounds are well planted ;
cypress and willows, fruits and flowers, combining
to give an air of order and solemnity to this
necropolis, and to awaken a calm, though melan
choly feeling, in the hearts of those who are likely
to sleep far away from the graves of their
fathers. One portion is appropriated to the Germans,
another to the North Americans, and the re
mainder to the English ; there is, however, no
mark of distinction or boundary, beyond the
gravel walk or flowering shrubs, that separate
their ashes. The whole expense amounted to
£1,319, obtained as follows: —
The English Government paid  £499 1 6
The British residents  499 110
The North Americans  175 0 0
The Germans  145 16 8
£1,319 0 0

The annual interments show an average of seventy-
two. I am, however, extremely sorry to record that,
of this number, a large majority of the adults have
brought upon themselves all the horrors of a j r j-
VOL. II. i

114 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
mature death, by the irregularity of their lives, and
the intemperance of their habits. I state this melan
choly fact upon the authority of two eminent medi
cal men, both British subjects, of long experience.

HISTORICAL RETROSPECT

ARGENTINE PROVINCES.

CHAPTER I.
Anticipations of the British respecting Spanish colonies —
Colonial policy of Spain — Choice of officials — Two classes of
citizens — Colonies not qualified for self-government — British
invasion of Buenos Ayres — Provinces under the Viceroy of
Buenos Ayres — Power of the viceroy — The proximate cause
of revolution — Functions of the Cabildo — Meeting of the
Cabildo, and its correspondence with the viceroy — First
popular outbreak — Military aid called in — General congress
summoned — Change of government moved and carried —
Deputation to the viceroy — His change of office proclaimed—
Installation of the Junta — Discontent of the people — Dis
solution of the Junta — Demands of the people — New
governing body elected.
When the Spanish colonies first established their in
dependence of the mother country, they became the
object of deep sympathy, and excited the most san
guine hopes for their prosperity. Mr. Canning, in
bringing the subject before the British House of
Commons, spoke of it in such terms, as led his
hearers to believe that a large portion of the earth,
hitherto cut off from intercourse with the civilized

116 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
world, had now, as if by the wand of a magician,
sprung into historical existence. These hopes have
not been realized : instead of growing into gigantic
stature, with all the force and vigour of youth, the
republics, except during brief intervals, have pre
sented a career of discord, tyranny, bloodshed, and
civil war, too horrible to dwell upon. To arrive at a
satisfactory explanation of these lamentable results,
will demand some investigation.
The Spanish dominions in America were ori
ginally placed under the control and management
of a council, called the Council of the Indies. Its
jurisdiction extended to every department; eccle
siastical, civil, military, and commercial. Another
tribunal was instituted for the regulation of all
questions of trade, and was called " Casa de la
Contratacion." This court was established in Se
ville, the port to which the commerce with the new
world was confined.
The first object ofthe Spanish monarchy was to
secure the productions of the colonies to the pa
rent state, by an absolute prohibition of any inter
course with foreign nations. Possession had been
taken of America by right of conquest, and, con
scious of the feebleness of its infant settlements,
Spaiii dreaded the intrusion of strangers : she even
discouraged their presence, and endeavoured to
keep them at a distance from her coasts. This
spirit of jealousy and exclusion, which at first was

/ __ SPANISH COLONIAL RULE. 117
natural, and perhaps necessary, increased as her
possessions in America extended, and as their value
became better understood. A system of colonizing
was introduced, selfish in its principles, and debasing
to the colonies themselves.
The Council of the Indies retained in its own
hands the right of legislation, as well as of imposing
taxes, together with the power of nominating the
persons who filled every department ofthe executive
government, civil and military. Almost all the
countries which she had discovered and occupied lay
within the tropics. When the Spaniards took pos
session of these regions, the precious metals which
they yielded was the only object that attracted their
attention : allured by prospects of immediate wealth,
they disdained to waste their industry on what was
less lucrative, though of more importance. In order
to prevent the colonists from making any efforts in
local industry that might interfere with the inte
rests of the mother country, the establishment of
several species of manufactures, and even the culture
of the vine or olive, were prohibited, under severe
penalties. On account ofthe distance of Peru and
Chili from Spain, and the difficulty of carrying
commodities of such bulk as wine and oil across the
isthmus of Panama, the inhabitants of these provinces
were permitted to plant vines and olives, but strictly
prohibited from [exporting the produce of either.
Clothes, furniture, industrial implements, wines,

118 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
and even a considerable part of the provisions
used by the colonists, were imported from Spain.
The carrying trade was exclusively possessed by
the mother country ; no vessels belonging to the
colonies being ever permitted to transport the com
modities of America to Europe. Even the commer
cial intercourse of one colony with another, was either
absolutely prohibited, or limited by many jealous
restrictions : no foreigner could enter without ex
press permission ; no foreign vessel of any nation
dare enter their harbours ; and the penalty of death,
with confiscation of moveable property, was de
nounced against every inhabitant who ventured to
trade with them. Such were the principles on
which the Spanish monarchs acted in forming
their new settlements in America ; their main care,
being directed to such plans as were best calculated
to keep the colonies in a state of perpetual sub
jection. This miserable and short-sighted policy
continued during two centuries and a half; at the
end of which time the colonies were permitted to
trade with each other, and several ports in Spain
were placed on a footing with Seville.
Fertile in every invention by which the colonies
might be made to feel their absolute dependence upon
Spain, every department of importance was filled by
an emissary from Europe ; and in order to prevent
any person of dubious fidelity being employed, each
applicant was required to bring proof of a clear de-

SPANISH COLONIAL OFFICIALS. 119
scent from a family of old Christians, untainted by any
mixture of Jewish or Mahommedan blood, and never
disgraced by any censure of the Inquisition. In such
pure hands power was deemed to be safely lodged.
Almost every function from the viceroyalty down
wards, was committed to this class alone ; and every
person who, by his birth and residence in America,
might be suspected of any interest adverse to the
mother country, was an object of distrust : to such a
degree, as amounted nearly to an exclusion from all
offices of confidence or authority. By such means
two classes of citizens were formed in the colonies ;
each alternately hating and fearing the other. Upon
every occasion symptoms of this aversion broke out,
and feelings were exhibited which could flow only
from a deep-rooted antipathy. This discord the
court of Spain encouraged and cultivated with so
much assiduity, that it contrived to make the rnulat-
toes jealous of the mestizoes ; while the negroes and
Indians were taught to hate and despise each other.
From these facts, in which the spirit of the colo
nial government is fairly exhibited, it is very evi
dent that the colonies could not be expected to be
qualified for self-government, when, by force of
arms, they achieved their own independence. They
never had been familiar with the primary elements
of jurisprudence, nor were they in any way trained to
the science of legislation or executive administration.
They suddenly gained possession of an immense terri-

120 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
tory, when, although powerful in point of numbers,
they were totally destitute of those qualities which
form the basis of stable governments or settled in
stitutions. As the necessary result of this ignorance
of the first principles of self-government, they were
unable to frame a constitution suitable to their posi
tion. In their attempts at this first step in their
national existence, discord, disunion and jealousy
became so prevalent, that the pen was laid aside, and
the sword taken up, as the best preserver of law and
order. Freedom from the galling yoke of Spain, and
liberty to exercise self-government, were the objects
for which they sighed and struggled : the former
they soon acquired, and in the exercise of the latter
they carried its theory to such an absurd extent,
that even towns sought to become petty kingdoms,
and in the wantonness of their juvenile importance,
erected themselves into free and independent states.
In order to illustrate the situation of the vice-
royalty towards its close, and show how the state of
these misgoverned provinces, no less than the
disasters which befel the mother country about this
period, invited the adventurous to the shores of
the Rio de la Plata, we shall here notice the
invasion of Buenos Ayres by the British in 1806-7.
In this disastrous narrative, the weakness of the
Spanish authorities will appear in striking con
trast with the determined patriotism of the people,
when combating under the eye of a chief (though

I __ BRITISH INVASION OF BUENOS AYRES. 121
not a native) in whom they could place confidence.
Leaving all other considerations out of the question,
it will not be deemed surprising that a people who
were exposed to such contingencies, instead of being
protected by their Government, should at last revolt
from their rulers, and enter upon the revolutionary
course of self-reliance. This military episode also
finds its proper place in our historical sketch, be
tween the sluggish increase of the Spanish power in
its decline, and the anarchy of the revolution.
In the early part of the year 1805, the British
Government had equipped an expedition for the
capture of the Cape of Good Hope, then held by
the Dutch. That object being effected previous
to the following January, and the ships yet riding
at anchor, exposed to the dangers of Table Bay, the
commanders chanced to hear of the defenceless
state of the Spanish settlements in the river Plate.
Weary of inaction, and seeing no immediate prospect
of a call in any other direction, the idea of striking
a sudden blow on the unsuspecting authorities,
recommended itself to the chiefs of the expedition,
and was finally adopted. We may here remark
that, although the Government itself never decided
upon such an expedition, yet Sir Home Popham,
the commander, had been consulted upon the utility
of such a measure by Mr. Pitt.
On the 12th of April, 1806, the fleet sailed from
the Cape of Good Hope ; and after some adventures

122 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
and mishaps, came to anchor opposite Quilmes, a
small village within twelve miles of Buenos Ayres,
on the 25th of June. The charge of the land
forces, consisting of 1,466 rank and file, with 169
officers, non-commissioned officers, and non-com
batants, was entrusted to General Beresford. On
the evening of the same day, the troops having
landed, picquets were thrown out in front, and the
army bivouacked for the night. Next morning at
daybreak, this little army had to cross a swamp, at
the edge of which they were met by a hostile mass
of horse and foot, who, with four guns on each
flank, harassed the troops while extricating them
selves from the marsh. As soon as solid ground
was gained, the British formed in order of battle
and prepared to charge, but the Spaniards aban
doned their cannon, and saved themselves by flight.
The loss on both sides was trifling. In the evening,
the army had reached the Barracas, where their
progress was stayed by the destruction of a wooden
bridge, which the retreating Spaniards had set on
fire. Next morning, a temporary bridge was
erected, over which the army crossed without hesi
tation, exposed to a heavy fire from troops shel
tered by ditches, hedges and houses ; but within an
hour this opposition was silenced, and about midday
on the 27th, an officer was despatched to the city,
demanding its surrender. The summons was ac
cepted on verbal terms, which were honourably

j _ SUCCESS OF THE BRITISH FORCE. 123
fulfilled on the part of the British, to the entire
satisfaction of the inhabitants; and the invading
army triumphantly entered the city that evening.
The loss sustained by the British, was one killed,
twelve wounded, and one missing, On their entry
they found 88 pieces of cannon, 550 barrels of
powder, and a quantity of small arms.
The Marquis Sobramonte, viceroy of the pro
vince — as related by Major Gillespie, to whom
I am indebted for these facts — had been amongst
the first to relinquish the field of battle, and was
also the foremost to abandon the seat of his dig
nity and government. It was ascertained that
he had conveyed away with him treasure to the
amount of 631,684 dollars, in coined and uncoined
silver. Captain Arbuthnot of the 20th Light Dra
goons, with Lieutenants Graham and Murray, and
only thirty men from the 71st Regiment, were
despatched in pursuit on the 3rd July, and suc
ceeded in capturing the whole before they had
penetrated further than Lujan. This little band
returned with their treasure on the 10th, and within
a few days 1,086,000 dollars were shipped for Eng
land in the Narcissus ; a large sum having been still
reserved for the use of the army.
The public authorities soon discovered that they
had tamely surrendered to a force which was insig
nificant in numerical strength. They ascertained
also that the expedition did not originate with the

124 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
British government, but with the officers in com
mand ; who, consequently, had no authority to
enter into any engagement or treaty with them,
either warlike, diplomatic, or mercantile ; they, there
fore, resolved to rid themselves of these unwelcome
intruders. To prevent their weakness appearing,
rations were demanded by the British beyond the
real wants of the army ; but it soon became evident
that so small a force could not retain and garrison
a hostile city of 40,000 inhabitants. Their inter
course with the inhabitants, indeed, was maintained
in the spirit of hospitality and friendship : the
nights were spent in balls and festivities, and most
of the officers were lodged with private families, from
whom they received the kindest attention ; and, in
some instances, laid the foundation of real and recipro
cal friendships. Such was their situation for several
weeks after their entry into the city : but a variety
of circumstances gradually revealed to them that
they were reposing on a secret mine.
The authorities, the clergy, and the people, had
worked together in silent watchfulness both in the
town and country ; and all their plans being ma
tured, they managed to convey from Colonia, on
the opposite side of the river, a body of 2,000 men,
with ten pieces of cannon, by which the troops of
Buenos Ayres, under Puerydon, were suddenly
strengthened on the 9th of August. No time was
now to be lost in the execution of their plan.

/ — GENERAL BERESFORD SURRENDERS. 125
On the 10th, they drove in the English outposts,
stationed at the Retiro. During the whole of the
11th much fighting took place through the streets
and entrances of the city, with heavy losses on both
sides. The dawn of the 12th showed the churches
and houses crowded With people, who only awaited
the arrival of General Liniers, a French officer
(who subsequently became viceroy), that with a
simultaneous effort, they might renew the combat.
The fire of musketry from the churches and houses
soon announced the commencement of the final
struggle. By eleven o'clock in the forenoon, General
Beresford, finding one-third of his army put hors de
combat, hoisted a flag of truce on the fortress, and
finally surrendered. The surviving portion of his
lately victorious army were of course made pri
soners, but the sick and wounded continued to
receive from the benevolent citizens every mark of
compassion and sympathy : and this, notwithstand
ing the little disposition which had been shown by
the authorities to co-operate in such humane efforts.
Another circumstance of striking interest demon
strated that the tender sympathies of nature can never
be wholly obliterated from the heart of woman, even
in her lowest state of degradation. Several of tbe
convict females who had escaped from the Lady
Shore daily visited the prisons and hospitals, ad
ministering to the comfort and necessities of their
countrymen ; and when their own scanty resources

126 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
were exhausted, they even solicited in their behalf
the charitable aid of the opulent.
The terms of the treaty with General Beresford
contained an article of " security to persons and
properties, and speedy embarkation for Europe."
This stipulation was shamefully violated : the Eng
lish prisoners being detained in suspense, under one
pretext or another, till the beginning of October,
subject to considerable annoyance from the rabble,
who seemed to possess more influence than the
authorities, and at length ordered into the interior
of the country. The now desponding and defence
less army was finally distributed in various parts of
the provinces of Buenos Ayres and Cordova.
General Beresford and suite were first detained
at Lujan, but were afterwards sent to a much
greater distance northward. At length they had
the good fortune to effect their escape, aided by the
friendly guidance of certain respectable natives,
who contemplated the future independence of the
country under the auspices of England. Messrs.
Pena and Padilla, two native gentlemen, received
a liberal pension from the British government for
the services which they rendered to these officers.
While the daring adventurers themselves were
suffering from these reverses, the intelligence of
their supposed conquest of Buenos Ayres was
speeding to England, where it was received with
the exultation due to its importance. A large war-

. _ GENERAL WHITELOCK's EXPEDITION. 127
like expedition was instantly fitted out to reinforce
the British arms in the River Plate. We confine
ourselves here to that portion of the army operating
in Buenos Ayres, the capture of Monte Video being
detailed in a subsequent chapter. In May, 1807,
Lieut.-General Whitelocke arrived in the river in
the Thisbe frigate, with several transports having
troops on board. When these ships sailed from
England, the disastrous position of General Beres
ford's army was unknown. The government were
not slow in appreciating the importance of the
prize, which they believed it was only necessary to
secure by arrangements for the permanent occu
pation of these territories. Whitelocke, therefore,
had been appointed commander-in-chief of the
British forces, with a commission naming him Go
vernor-General of South America, at a salary of
12,000/. per annum.
Sir Home Popham was superseded in his com
mand, and Rear-Admiral Stirling was sent out as
his successor. At the time that General Whitelocke
prepared to attack Buenos Ayres, however, the chief
command ofthe fleet devolved upon Rear- Admiral
Murray. The expedition arrived at its destination
on the 27th June, 1807, when they cast anchor off
Ensanada, distant from Buenos Ayres about forty
miles. Before dark on the following day, the
forces were landed, consisting of 7,822 rank and file
with 18 pieces of field artillery. From the lauding

128 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
of the troops up to the morning of the 5th of July,
continued skirmishing took place ; in every instance
with results which argued favourably for the British
arms. The last and principal of these demonstra
tions occurred when an officer bearing a flag of
truce was despatched to the city, demanding its sur
render. This, General Liniers refused, and the offi
cer returned, bringing word also that the enemy
were advancing from the city, to attack General
Gower in his position. The troops were instantly
formed to try the issue with their assailants, and the
Spaniards appearing, a severe skirmish ensued, with
loss on both sides : the latter retreated to the city.
On the morning of the 5th, it was resolved to storm
the town. As early as four o'clock, the troops
selected for this service were under arms ; but by
reason of various delays, it was daylight before they
formed at the entrances of the different streets,
through which they had to fight their way. The
disposition of these troops, numbering four thousand
five hundred men, was as follows — the remainder of
the army being in reserve, under General Whit-
locke, about three miles from the scene of action : —
The 45th Infantry, under Lieut.-Col. Guard.
The Carabineers, under Lieut.-Col. Kington.
The light brigade, in two wings, under Lieut-Gen. Craw
ford and Lieut.-Col. Pack.
The 88th Regiment, in two wings, under Lieut.-Col. Duff
and Major Vandeleur.

/ „ DEFEAT OF THE BRITISH TROOPS. 129
The 36th Regiment, in two wings, under Lieut-Col. Byrne
and Captain Cross.
The 5th Regiment, in two wings, under Lieut.-Col. Davie
and the Hon. Major King.
The 87th Regiment, in two wings, under Sir S. Auchmuty
and Major Miller.
The 38th Regiment, under Lieut.-Col. Nugent.
The history of each of these devoted bands would
demonstrate that they conquered every opposition
they could fairly contend against, but were over
powered by an enemy not always visible, and seldom
assailable. After penetrating into the city, they
were exposed to the galling fire of troops from
churches, barricaded forts, and the roofs and win
dows of houses. Regiment after regiment, and
division after division, fought, fell, and surrendered.
About noon the firing had nearly ceased in all
quarters, the British troops still retaining possession
of the Retiro and the Residentia. How gallantly
this severe conflict had been sustained may be in
ferred from the fact that more than seventy officers
and a thousand men -were killed or badly wounded ;
while one hundred and twenty officers, with fifteen
hundred rank and file, were taken prisoners.
Nearly the whole of this loss was incurred where
there was no possibility of success, considering the
unconnected and unsupported manner in which
the attacks were made. It is mortifying to record
such disasters suffered by these much enduring
VOL. II. k

130 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
troops and gallant officers, from the manner of
conducting the operations. Generals Whitelocke
and Gower remained with the centre of the army
during the whole day at the Coral de Miserere, while
Col. Mahon, with a brigade of 1,800 men, was idly
stationed at the village of Quilmes. It may be
added here that the fleet had been lying opposite
Buenos Ayres for some days, ignorant of the ope
rations on shore ; and, as large ships could not
approach nearer than five or six miles, when the
British flag was hoisted at the Retiro on the morn
ing of the 5th, small armed vessels stood close in
and brought refreshments to the troops.
On the morning of the 6th, General Whitelocke
received the following letter from General Liniers : —
" Sir, — The same sentiments of humanity which
induced your Excellency to propose to me to capi
tulate, lead me, now that I am fully acquainted with
your force, that I have taken eighty officers and up
wards of 1,000 men, and killed more than double
that number, without your having reached the centre
of my position : the same sentiments, I say, lead me,
in order to avoid a further effusion of blood, and to
give your Excellency a fresh proof of Spanish gene
rosity, to offer to your Excellency, that if you choose
to re-embark with the remainder of your army, to
evacuate Monte Video and the whole of the River
Plate, leaving me hostages for the execution of the
treaty, I will not only return all the prisoners which

/ . FAILURE OF WHITELOCKe'S EXPEDITION. 131
I have now made, but also all those which were
taken from General Beresford. At the same time
I think it necessary to state, that if your Excel
lency does not accept this offer, I cannot answer for
the safety of the prisoners, as my troops are so infi
nitely exasperated against them ; and the more so as
three of my aides-de-camp have been wounded
bearing flags of truce : and for this reason I send
your Excellency this letter by an English officer, and
shall wait your answer for one hour."
(Signed), &c, &c.
Other operations against the city were under
consideration by the British officers when this letter
arrived, but a cessation of hostilities till the next
day at noon was now agreed upon, and the interval
employed in arranging a definitive treaty based upon
the conditions proposed by General Liniers. In
fulfilment of these engagements, the last of the trans
ports, merchantmen, and ships of war, sailed from the
River Plate on the 9th of the following September,
the Medusa frigate having on board General White
locke and staff. On his arrival in London, he was
tried by court-martial ; the judgment against him
being that Lieutenant-General Whitelocke be ca
shiered, and declared totally unfit and unworthy to
serve his Majesty in any military capacity whatever.
Thus terminated an expedition, and the hopes of
acquiring a boundless territory, which had been

132 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
regarded as certain of success by the British nation ;
and which owed its failure, not to any want of
devoted courage in the troops, nor of zeal and
gallantry in the officers, but to a deficiency of gene
ralship as glaring as it was disastrous.
As it would be entering too much into detail to
give the history of the provincial government, and
the progress of discontent during the two following
years, we proceed at once to the events which mark
the end of the Viceroyalty. And as we are ap
proaching a period of disintegration, it may be
observed here that, when the desire for independence
first manifested itself amongst the people, the Vice-
royalty of Buenos Ayres embraced a part of Peru,
Paraguay, and the Banda Oriental, better known
as Monte Video, together with those provinces then
denominated the United Provinces of Rio de la
Plata, which are as follow : —
Buenos Ayres Cordova
Entre Rios San Juan
Corrientes Mendoza
Salta San Luis
Tucuman Santa F6
Catamana Santiago.
Rioja
The Viceroy was invested with power almost
absolute; which its possessor always exercised in such
a way as to retire in the possession of wealth, even al
though he should have been a pauper on taking office.
The army stationed in this territory was chiefly

/ _ GOVERNMENT OF BUENOS AYRES. 133
composed of militia men : although most of the
officers were from Spain. The revolutionary move
ments in Europe and the British colonies of North
America, had their full influence upon the inhabitants
of this part of South America ; but nothing tended so
much to encourage a laudable anxiety to ameliorate
their condition, as the enfeebled state of the Spanish
monarchy : of which they had received very sensible
proof in the daring invasion of their territory by
Napoleon. Ferdinand VII. was now deposed, and
the French troops were in possession of the mother-
country, In addition to the authority exercised by the Vice
roy, the city of Buenos Ayres was governed by a
Cabildo, whose functions were similar to those of our
corporations. They were nominally twelve in num
ber, each having some special duty : some were
judges ; one was considered the guardian of minors ;
another had the superintendence ofthe police ; a third
of the markets, or of the poor, and so forth. Their
term of office was one year ; the retiring members
having the right to nominate their successors. Such
was the body whose leadership during the revolu
tionary crisis we have now to note, and whose
correspondence with the Viceroy, and other official
documents, we shall freely translate as we proceed.
On the 21st of May, 1810, the Cabildo, or corpo
ration, assembled for the consideration of various
rumours which agitated the public mind. Don Juan

.34 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
Lezica opened the business of the meeting, by
reminding the members that the news of events
disastrous in their consequences to Spain, had
reached the country, and were confirmed by the
official announcement of the Viceroy. The mem
bers generally represented the people as in a
state of ferment ; from uncertainty as to what would
be their own fate, now that the government and
nationality of the mother country had succumbed
to the successful arms of Napoleon. Before the
meeting broke up, a considerable number of people
crowded into the great square ; confirming in loud
voices the opinion set forth by the members of the
Cabildo. The presence of this tumultuous assembly,
proved the necessity for coming to some prompt deci
sion, with a view of allaying the out-door excite
ment, as well as of making due provision for the
safety and well-being ofthe country. It was, there
fore, resolved to address the following memorial to
B. H. De Cisneros, who was at that time Viceroy.
" The people, having become acquainted with the
unfortunate events in our Peninsula, through the
papers published by your Excellency, are animated
by innate loyalty to our sovereign, and desire that
it may be compatible with their happiness to pre
serve the countries entire, under the dominion of
Ferdinand VII. ; they, however, waver amidst con
flicting ideas, which may lead to lamentable commo-

/ „ ADDRESS TO THE VICEROY. 135
tions unless promptly allayed. This Cabildo, which
watches over their prosperity, and takes so great an
interest in their union and tranquillity, makes it
known to your Excellency that it dreads the evils of
a popular commotion ; to avoid which, it desires to
obtain permission from your Excellency to convoke
by circular a meeting of the principal and most
respectable part of the inhabitants, that in public
congress the will of the people may be manifested,
and the most suitable means adopted to avert all
misfortune, and ensure our future welfare. Your
Excellency will also be pleased to order that on the
day of the meeting an extra guard may be placed on
the avenues and streets leading to the Plaza, to re
press all tumult, and permit only those who shall
exhibit the note of invitation."
This memorial was placed in the hands of Don
M. de Ocampo and Don A. Dominguez, who were
specially charged to obtain from his Excellency a
prompt reply, the session remaining open until
their return. The reply of the Viceroy was as
follows : —
" I have just received the official note of your
Excellencies of this date, now at ten in the morning,
through the medium of your two deputies; and
having informed myself of its contents, I am at once
willing to accord to your Excellencies, as I now do,

136 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
the permission solicited, for the purpose and with
the condition indicated in the aforementioned note.
Meanwhile, as soon as yourExcellencies make known
to me the day of the proposed Congress, I shall make
arrangements that picquets shall be posted, as your
Excellencies request, in the avenues and streets
leadiug to the Plaza, to avoid any tumult or commo
tion that might occur ; and also to prevent the pre
sence of any person, except those who have in their
hands the note of invitation. And I hope from the
proud fidelity of your Excellencies, and the interest
always manifested for the public weal, that, as its re
presentatives, you will display all the zeal which
characterizes you ; in order that nothing may be done,
or resolved upon, that is not in accordance with the
best services to our beloved sovereign, Ferdinand
VII., and the integrity of these his dominions, during
his captivity ; inasmuch as the monarchy is one and
indivisible, and should therefore be maintained in its
unity." (Signed) " B. H. de Cisneros."
The members of the Cabildo, being made ac
quainted with the foregoing reply, resolved to send
for the commandante of the Patricios (militia), for
the purpose of charging him to adopt measures to
prevent tumult, and to preserve order and public
tranquillity. Whilst matters were in this state, fresh cries were

/ - A CONGRESS SUMMONED. 137
heard from the crowd of people without, demanding
that the Recorder should present himself in the bal
cony : he complied with their demand, whereupon
they inquired what answer had been given by the
Viceroy. The Recorder told them that his Excellency
had consented to all their requirements, and that the
Cabildo was exerting itself to secure the public wel
fare and happiness ; he further requested them to
retire peaceably to their houses, and to remain tran
quil. The populace again vociferated, that what
they required was to have the Viceroy deposed ; the
Recorder still pressed on them the remarks he had
already made, and then withdrew into the sala
(assembly room). At this moment, Colonel Saavedra
made his appearance, and the members entreated
him to set on foot, without the least delay, whatever
measures his prudence and zeal might dictate, to in
duce the people to withdraw from the Plaza ; and
also to exercise his vigilance with the other officers
to maintain the public peace. Colonel Saavedra then
retired ; first promising most faithfully to maintain
the public tranquillity ; and, by his wise counsel, the
populace was induced to disperse.
The Sala then resolved to summon a general
congress to meet the next morning at nine o'clock ;
summonses were accordingly issued to the bishop and
clergy, the various members of the government, the
heads of public offices, the judges and command-
antes, and also to all influential citizens.

138 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
At the opening of the congress, a proclamation
was read, exhorting the assembly to put away dis
sension, to secure unity of design with the other
provinces, to preserve all loyalty to the Crown, and
to avoid every innovation or change. A long dis
cussion then ensued ; at the close of which, the
following question was proposed : — " Shall another
authority be substituted for that of the Viceroy,
leaving us dependent on Spain in case she should
be saved, and independent should she be con
quered ? " This was disapproved of, and another
substituted : — " Has the sovereign authority in the
Peninsula ceased to exist, or is it in a state of un
certainty?" This also being rejected, the follow
ing was substituted : — " Shall another authority be
substituted for that possessed by the Viceroy, to be
legitimately exercised in the name of Ferdinand VIL,
and in whom shall it be invested?" This being: o
generally approved, was put to the vote and adopted.
Shortly after midnight, as the business ofthe meeting
was not yet brought to a close, an adjournment to
the day following was moved and carried.
The next morning, May the 23rd, 1810, the
Cabildo (corporation) assembled. The first duty
was to analyze the votes given on the previous
evening ; as, when giving his vote in writing, each
individual mentioned those with whom, in his
opinion, the new authority should be invested. It
appeared on investigation, that a large majority

/ _ THE VICEROY DEPOSED. 139
wished that the Viceroy should be deposed, and
his powers vested in the Cabildo ; also that the
Cabildo should appoint the new government ; such
new government to maintain its authority, until a
general congress should be held, composed of
deputies from all the provinces.
In order to carry out the proposition of this majo
rity, the Cabildo appointed a deputation, composed
of Don M. de Ocampo, and Don T. Anchoreno,
to wait on the Viceroy, announcing to him that his
authority must cease ; but that a new government
would be at once appointed, of which he should
form the head. The deputation, on their return to
the sala, reported the willingness of his Excellency
to co-operate with them in the manner proposed ; at
the same time stating that his Excellency recom
mended them to confer with the commandantes of
the troops in garrison ; as the people were dissatis
fied with the proceedings of the Cabildo. The
various commanding officers were then summoned
to appear, and upon their entering the sala, they
were duly informed of what had taken place ; they
replied, that to appease the people, a proclamation
should be issued, informing them that the authority
of the Viceroy had ceased, and that his functions
were assumed by the Cabildo. A proclamation to
that effect was accordingly at once prepared.
On the morning of the 24th, the Cabildo again
assembled, and at once passed a law appointing the

140 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
Viceroy to continue in authority, and in the full
possession of his emoluments; four other indi
viduals being associated with him, and the whole
forming a Junta. The Cabildo reserved to itself
the right of "minutely watching their proceedings, '.'
and if unexpectedly they should fail in the fulfilment
of their duties, they are to be deposed." In this
way, and with many other provisions, they so fet
tered the new government, that it possessed no
more than the shadow of authority : all its edicts,
however, were to be issued in the name of the King.
After the passing of this act, a long discussion, or
rather conversation, took place amongst the mem
bers, as to the probable manner in which their pro
ceedings would be received by the populace ; and
they judged it right to ascertain whether, in the
event of any outbreak, the military would support
the new order of things. For this purpose they
summoned all the commanding officers in the gar
rison, to appear at once in the sala. As soon as
they arrived, the chairman made known to them
the object for which they were called together,
stating that the government now looked for their
countenance and aid, in order to carry into effect
the measures necessary in their present critical
position. The officers replied, that they were both
able and willing to support the authority which the
Cabildo had received from the people.
At the close of this interview, the Cabildo, being

/ - INSTALLATION OF THE JUNTA. 141
resolved to proceed at once to the installation of
the Junta, ordered that the members elect should
appear in the municipal hall at three o'clock p.m.,
to be then sworn into office with all due pomp and
solemnity. The members of the Cabildo also, tak
ing into consideration the propriety of bestowing
some mark of approbation on the officers and pri
vates of the first guard of honour, ordered the
treasurer to present a gold watch to each of the
four officers, and to give one hundred silver dollars
to be distributed among the men.
At three o'clock, the hall of assembly was filled
with the bishops and clergy, the superiors of reli
gious communities, the officers of the garrison, with
a large number of the common people. The pre
sident and members elect, who were seated under
a canopy, having before them a cushion upon which
were placed a crucifix and the Holy Gospel, knelt
in succession, and, each placing his right hand
upon the Holy Gospel, swore to discharge the
duties of his office, and to preserve these pro
vinces inviolate to Ferdinand VII. and his lawful
successors. At the close of the ceremony, his
Excellency the late Viceroy, now president of
the Junta, addressed the assembly, encouraging
the people to have full confidence in the power
and patriotism of the government, and request
ing their aid in securing peace and tranquillity.
The newly-installed authorities then withdrew to

142 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
the Royal Fortress, amidst a very numerous con
course of people, whilst the bells rang, and the
artillery thundered a royal salute. Thus was esta
blished the first republican government of Buenos
Ayres ; consisting of Don B. H. de Cisneros, Pre
sident, aided by Dr. Don J. Nepomuceno de Sola,
curate of the parish ; Dr. Don J. Casteili, advocate ;
Don C. de Saavedra, Colonel in the army ; Don
J. Inchaurregui, merchant.
The Cabildo, in the discharge of its important du
ties, assembled early on the morning of the 25th.
The Recorder upon taking his seat, at once informed
the meeting that he had received a letter from the pre
sident and members of the Junta, dated half past nine
the previous night (just six hours after they had been
installed with all due pomp and solemnity), the pur
port of which letter was as follows : — " We are in
formed that the people are in great agitation, and show
much discontent, because the late Viceroy has been
retained in military power. This has caused us in
expressible sorrow, and impels us to inform you that
you may proceed to the election of persons possess
ing public confidence ; for, believing that to be the
only way of calming the agitation which has again
appeared among the people, we resign the power
conferred on this Junta."
In answer to this note, the Cabildo sent a written
reply to the President, reminding him that he was
duly installed in his office, and that, as he had the

/^ DISCONTENT OF THE PEOPLE. 143
military under his control, it was his duty to use all
legitimate means to restrain the discontented ; and
that if he failed to do so, the responsibility must rest
with himself and his associates.
At this time a crowd of people gathered together
in the corridors of the senate house, and some in
dividuals, in the capacity of delegates, having re
ceived permission, presented themselves in the hall,
to explain the cause of this discontent and commo
tion. They stated that the people would in no
wise assent to the election of the President ;
that the Cabildo had exceeded the powers con
ferred upon it by the people on the 21st; and
that to avoid the disasters which were to be appre
hended from the excitement, it became necessary that
the Cabildo should cancel the resolution already
passed. The members endeavoured to calm their
heated minds, and requested them to pacify the
people who filled the corridors ; they further pro
mised the delegates that they would consider the
subject with the seriousness and deliberation which
the circumstances demanded ; and desired them to
assure the people that their representatives were
animated by no other motives than those of securing
the well-being and felicity of the provinces. Calmed
by these assurances, the individuals withdrew ; en
treating that no time should be lost, lest some
serious calamities should befall the inhabitants.
The members of the Cabildo, finding themselves

144 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
placed in a position of such difficulty, spent some
time in deliberation ; and ultimately decided that any
innovation on the arrangements of the previous day
would be productive of the greatest evils, inasmuch
as they would forfeit the confidence of the pro
vinces, as well as create distrust on the continent of
Europe. They resolved therefore to coerce the dis
contented part of the population ; but, as this could
only be done by the co - operation of the mili
tary, they determined to send for the commanding
officers. When these gentlemen entered the assem
bly, the recorder explained to them the dilemma
in which the Cabildo found itself, and pointed out
the evils which would result from any innovation
upon the newly-appointed authorities ; then remind
ing them of their promise of the day before, he re
quested them to state frankly whether the forces
under their command could be depended on to
support the established government. To this the
officers replied, that the discontent was general
among the troops and the people, because the late
Viceroy was allowed to retain power ; and that they
were not only unable to support the established go
vernment, but even to maintain their own position,
as they were looked upon with suspicion : nor would
they be able even to preserve the Cabildo from the
insults threatened by the populace ; the troops being
in a terrible state of excitement.
At this juncturej the people who crowded the

) _ DEMANDS OF THE PEOPLE. 145
corridor knocked several times at the door; voices
being heard, desirous to know the subject under
discussion, one of the officers found it necessary to
go out and pacify them. Pressed in this way by the
populace, and with a view to yield to their desires,
Don M. Mancilla, and Don T. Anchorena, were
appointed to wait on the President of the govern
ment, informing him of what had taken place, and
requesting his immediate resignation. Upon the
return of these gentlemen to the Sala, they reported
the willingness of His Excellency to resign, but
stated that, to save his reputation, he wished to do
so under protest. At this moment, some individuals
appeared in the hall, exclaiming in the name of the
people, that they did not consider the separation of
His Excellency from the government sufficient; but
that the Junta itself must be dissolved ; and further,
they declared that the people had re-assumed the
power vested by them in the Cabildo. These de
puties then named ten persons to whom they desired
that the government should be confided, stipulating
that, within fifteen days after their due installation,
an expedition of five hundred men should be sent
into the provinces : the expense to be defrayed out
of the income of the late viceroy, and other mem
bers of the late royal government : leaving them a
sufficient income for their subsistence.
The members of the Cabildo, after some dis
cussion with the deputies, suggested to them that,
VOL. II. L

146 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
in order to proceed in an intelligible manner,
the people should state what they wanted, in
writing, avoiding the tumultuous conduct which
had been witnessed on the two previous days. The
deputies then withdrew ; after a long interval they re
appeared, and presented a written document, signed
by a considerable number of private individuals ;
also by members of religious orders, officers of
troops, and other officials, which embodied the
opinions already verbally expressed. The Cabildo
desired them to gather the people together in the
Plaza, that it might be ascertained whether such
proceedings were really in accordance with their
wishes. This they promised to do, and withdrew.
After some time, the members of the Cabildo went
out on the balcony, and the recorder, seeing but
few people assembled, compared with what he had
expected, inquired, Where are the people? After
various replies, it was stated by the leaders of those
who were assembled, that if up to the present time
they had conducted themselves with forbearance, in
order to save the city from disasters, it would now
become necessary to have recourse to violent means ;
that the hour being inconvenient, the people had
withdrawn to their homes ; that if the Cabildo wished
for its own satisfaction, the Cabildo bell might be
rung ; but if, for want of a clapper, that could not
be done, they themselves would order an alarm
to be sounded, and the barracks to be opened, in

/ — NEW GOVERNMENT INSTALLED. 147
which case the city would suffer evils which they
had hitherto endeavoured to prevent. The mem
bers of the corporation, seeing themselves threat
ened in such a manner, and with a view to prevent
the least effusion of blood, determined to adopt the
petition just presented ; the actuary, therefore, stand
ing on the balcony, read it aloud, and at its close the
people shouted with one accord that it expressed
their demands. The Cabildo then proceeded to make
some additions of its own : — First, That the duty
of preserving order and public tranquillity should
rest with the Junta ; for wliich it would be held
responsible. To this the populace assented. Se
condly, That the Cabildo would watch over the
conduct of its members, and remove those who
should be remiss in the discharge of their duty. The
people answered that in such a case the charge
must be proved publicly, to which the actuary
gave the assent of the Cabildo. Fourthly, That
the Junta cannot impose levies, fines, or taxes,
without the advice and consent of the Cabildo.
To this the populace assented.
The members then withdrew into the hall, and
although compelled to yield to violence, they re
solved, as the only means of preventing bloodshed,
to instal, without loss of time, the individuals ap
pointed by the populace. This course was the more
desirable, as night was fast approaching. In due
time, yet in the midst of great confusion, the principal

148 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
citizens and heads of institutions, both lay and clerical,
assembled in the hall ; when the nine newly-chosen
members of the government, with Col. Saavedra as
their president, were duly installed with the same
pomp and ceremony which were observed when the
first government entered upon its existence on the
previous evening. Such is a brief but accurate
history of the five important days which in May
1810 laid the foundation ofthe country's subsequent
nationality. It is not my intention to give any details ofthe war
carried on by the patriot armies against the troops
and partisans of the Crown ; for although the Re
publicans, in the organization of their governments
at Buenos Ayres, swore allegiance to the king,
justifying their proceedings by the pretext that they
wished to retain the country on behalf of the Crown,
yet they made war upon all those whose loyalty to
Ferdinand was honest and consistent.
In the following pages I do not intend to do more
than give a brief chronological view of the various
governments which enjoyed an ephemeral existence
from the year 1810 to the period when the reins of
government were placed in the hands of General
Rosas.

THE JUNTA. 149

CHAPTER II.
Errors of the Junta — Progress towards independence — First
Constituent General Assembly — Sovereign Congress of the
United Provinces — Declaration of Independence — The Di
rectory—Changes in the Government — " Cabildo Abierto "
— Mode of announcing a Government — House of Repre
sentatives first chosen — Treaty with Great Britain — Riva
davia, bis efforts and errors — English loan — War with
Brazils — Insurrection of General Lavalle — Execution of
Dorrego — Defeat of Lavalle by Rosas — Assassination of
Maza — List of the Governors of Buenos Ayres — General
history of the Provinces resumed — Congress at Buenos Ayres
— Efforts to frame a constitution — Questions at issue —
Answers of the various provinces — Origin of the terms
Unitarians and Federals, and of the present Argentine Con
federation.
The Junta, appointed in the turbulent manner we
have described, continued in authority until the
23rd September, 1811, when, at the petition of the
people, it was dissolved, and replaced by an execu
tive government composed of three members, viz.,
Chilcano, Pasos, and Sarratea. It appears that the

150 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
first acting Junta had mistaken its duty in assuming
executive as well as legislative functions, which
caused interminable confusion. This new govern
ment also came under the displeasure of the people ;
on the 8th October, 1812, it was deposed, and suc
ceeded by Pasos as President, and Pena and Alva
rez de Fonte as Auditors.
During the interval the provinces, generally, had
not been inactive. Besides the particular proceedings
in Buenos Ayres, attempts had been made to frame
a government upon a broader basis of representa
tion. There were two distinct parties to this move
ment: the one, desirous of preserving the loyal at
tachment of these countries to the Spanish Crown,
and of resorting to self-government only until the
monarchy could free itself from the dominion of
France ; the other was in favour of independence. In
1811, certain provincial deputies of the first-named
party arrived in Buenos Ayres, and assumed the
nameof " Junta Conservadora de la Soveranio del Sr.
D. Fernando VII," " Preserver of the rights of the
King. " This assembly restricted itself to the act of
defining some of the functions of the Junta; and also
of the executive and judicial powers. The existing
government of Buenos Ayres, however, displeased
with the title it had assumed, rejected its authority;
pledging itself, as soon as circumstances would per
mit, to convoke a congress of the Provinces.
The military had always taken an active part in

// ^ GENERAL ASSEMBLIES. 151
the revolutionary proceedings, and many had ranged
themselves under the banners of independence. To
wards the close of 1812, when the government of
Pasos and his coadjutors had been proclaimed by
the Buenos Ayreans, the liberating armies expe
rienced several signal defeats, and the issue of
the war was daily becoming more uncertain. Un
der these circumstances, the promise of the existing
government was redeemed, and a " Sovereign As
sembly," to consist of deputies from the provinces,
was summoned to meet at Tucuman for concerting
measures to promote the common safety. This body,
on proceeding to business in February, 1813, passed
a resolution that the executive government was to be
called the " Supreme Executive Government," and
retained Pena Alvarez de Fonte, and Perez, in the
command. About the same time, an assembly of deputies,
elected by the provinces, was held in Buenos Ayres,
where they met on the 31st January, and formed the
first Constituent General Assembly (Assembla Gen
eral Constituyante de la Provincias Unidas del Rio de
la Plata). This body did not declare itself openly in
favour of independence, but it issued many decrees
and framed regulations such as belong only to a
sovereign state. It declared the Church inde
pendent ; created a new coinage ; abolished torture
in criminal cases ; pronounced the children born of
slave mothers to be free ; and abolished the slave

152 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
trade. But it did nothing towards fixing the form
of a general government ; though it replaced the
power of the Junta by an authority vested in
a " Supreme Director." This change was effected
on the 31st January, 1814, Don G. Posadas being
the first elected to this office, in which he was suc
ceeded, on the 10th January, 1815, by Don Carlos
Alvear, and again, on the 21st of the April following,
by Don Jose Rondeau.
These rapid changes are sufficient to show the
prevailing discord both within doors and without.
At length, the " Sovereign Assembly " itself broke
up in the midst of anarchy, on the 16th April, 1816,
having established a Junta of Observation (Junta de
Observacion), by which, on the same day, General
Balcarce was named " Director." His appoint
ment to this office lasted no longer than till the 11th of
July following, when he was deposed by the " Junta
of Observation and the Municipality," but reinstated
provisionally, as " Director." It may be observed
here that these various changes, and the several
titles by which the assembly is named, arose from
the efforts of Buenos Ayres, on the one hand, to
assume certain functions, and those of the pro
vincials, on the other, to establish a national
government. From the year 1813 to 1816, the " Sovereign As
sembly," whose meetings had been held at Tucuman,
continued de facto to be the centre of government.

i) _ THE SOVEREIGN CONGRESS. 153
After its dissolution, and the changes we have
described, it was deemed expedient to assemble a
general congress to take into consideration the
expediency of signing a declaration of independ
ence. For although the Provinces had in reality made
war against their august sovereign since the year
1810, they still continued to conduct all their pro
ceedings in the name and on behalf of his Majesty.
It being, however, resolved upon to dispense with this
mockery, the "Sovereign Congress ofthe United Pro
vinces of the Rio de la Plata" (el Congreso Soberano
de las Provincias Unidas del Rio de la Plata) assem
bled at Tucuman on the 25th March, 1816, and on
the 9th July, this body declared their national in
dependence. Their next labour was to discuss the follow
ing proposition : — " What form of government
would be most adapted to our actual state, and
most fitted to ensure the prosperity of the United
Provinces ? " On this point the members of
the congress entertained different opinions : some
voted fbr a constitutional monarchy; others for a
federal republic; and others for a single and in
divisible republic. General Belgrano, a man emi
nent amongst his countrymen, in a letter to a friend,
makes the following statement : " On the day after
my arrival here, the congress summoned me to
a secret session, at which I was asked several ques
tions. I became agitated, cried, and drew tears

154 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
from all present, on reflecting upon the unfortunate
situation of the country; I spoke to them of a
constitutional monarchy with a sovereign represen
tation in the family of the Incas ; all embraced the
idea — believe me, my comrade, the only one which
can disarm our enemies." And the only difference
of opinion, said the General, was, " Whether the
Crown should be given to the Bourbon family,
or to that of tbe Incas." To such an extent did the
lingering spirit of royalty still animate a very con
siderable section of the people, that the Provisional
Government sent plenipotentiaries to Spain, entreat
ing Charles IV. himself to repair to Buenos Ayres;
or, should such a step be impracticable, to induce
his son, Francisco de Paulo, to ascend the throne as
an independent monarch. The document contain
ing this strange proposal was signed by Don
Manuel Belgrano and Don Bernardino Rivadavia.
Such a proposal, as might have been expected,
proved unavailing. The provinces, therefore, of the
Rio de la Plata had no other alternative than to
renounce all further connection with the mother
country. When the Declaration of Independence, therefore,
was ratified by the Congress on the 9th of July, Gene
ral Pueyrredon was named "Supreme Director," who
continued to hold the reins of government until the
month of June, 1819, when General Rondeau suc
ceeded him provisionally, with the same title. In the

// _ FALL OF THE DIRECTORY. 155
April of the same year, a constitution was drawn
up by the Assembly, the character of which is thus
defined by its authors in their manifest : " We can
say with the same right, as said a wise writer in
reference to his own case, that the present consti
tution is neither the stormy democracy of Athens,
the monkish rule of Sparta, the patrician aris
tocracy or the plebeian effervescence of Rome, the
absolute government of Russia, the despotism of
Turkey, nor the complicated federation of some
states. But it is a form of government which
approaches to perfection : a medium state between
democratic convulsion, aristocratic injustice, and
the abuse of unlimited power." Lofty as was this
eulogy, the constitution thus highly extolled proved
impracticable ; it resembled a code of bye-laws,
much more than a national constitution : its authors
having made no provision whatever, either for any
bond of union amongst the provinces, or the mode
of electing their respective authorities.
Meanwhile the Congress removed from Tucu-
ma:i to Buenos Ayres, where, with the constitu
tion it had created, it altogether disappeared,
amid anarchy and strife. Upon the 11th of
February, 1820, the Cabildo took the command
and abolished the supreme direction ; the following
day the municipality, or the Cabildo, provisionally
appointed Don M. Irigoyen, " Political Governor of
the Province," and Don M. Soler, " Commander-

156 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
General," On the 16th, Don M. Sarratea became
governor of the province ; on the 6th of March,
General Balcarce was named "Governor and Captain
General ; " and on the 2nd of May, J. R. Mazia was
appointed provisionally. He resigned on the 13th
June, when the Cabildo resumed the command.
General Soler again became " Governor and Captain
General" on the 30th of June. Upon the 3rd of July,
Don M.Dorregowas named "Governor" by the elec
toral junta, the municipality, and the people. And
on the 28th September, General Rodriguez was ap
pointed governor.
During the anarchy which followed the overthrow
of the Directory in Buenos Ayres, a fresh attempt
to establish a general congress was made at Cordova,
which, however, failed from a want of unity ; and
from that period till the year 1824, the provinces
remained entirely isolated.
This last-mentioned period marks the commence
ment of a new era in the struggle for a national
existence ; and we shall briefly relate what took
place both at the time referred to and subsequently.
First, however, we propose to continue our notice
of Buenos Ayres, and endeavour to throw a ray of
light upon the unexampled confusion which we
have just recorded.
It has already been shown that the policy of the
court of Spain was such as to render the people of
these Provinces totally unfit for self-government.

// - CABILDO ABIERTO. 157
Their moral disabilities were further aggravated by
the clumsy machinery set in motion ; and the unprin
cipled conduct of selfish and reckless adventurers
in the new career opened to them by the revo
lution. As there was no definite centre of power,
various parties, each within its own circle, became
the instruments of first creating executive govern
ments, and then of destroying their own device.
We have first the " Cabildo, " next the " Junta,"
then the " Sovereign assembly, " and again the
" Congress ;" each engaged in the duty of legis
lating. Upon any great emergency it was customary to
hold what was termed a " Cabildo abierto : " this was
a meeting of the people, whose decision was consi
dered on these occasions as final. The people were
summoned by proclamation, or by the ringing of the
Cabildo bell ; and they usually assembled in the Plaza
in front of the Cabildo. Upon all such occasions they
alone were the legislators : the members of the " Ca
bildo" occupied the large front room in the building,
and merely conducted the formula of the meeting.
Communication between the two bodies was main
tained by means of the chairman or by some other
person, who discoursed with the people from the
railing of the balcony. So truly primitive a mode of
legislation, however, was, at the end of eleven years,
found to be unsuitable; the Cabildo proper was,
therefore, abolished by a decree issued on the 24th

158 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
December, 1821, its executive duties being trans
ferred to five judges.
During the first ten years of the Republic about
twenty governments held sway ; and the existence
of each new one was announced by what was
termed " Bando" in the following manner. The
government scrivano (lawyer) perambulated the
streets accompanied by the public executioner and
a drummer or trumpeter. This official read the
proclamation to the executioner, who in a loud voice
announced it to the people ; it was then posted up
in writing in the public thoroughfares. This mode
of announcement was abandoned when the Cabildo
ceased to exist.
In 1820, as already noticed, the body politic main
tained only a doubtful existence ; it had barely
strength to give birth to an executive government,
which scarcely inhaled the official atmosphere,
before it died. There were at least twelve such
governments duly installed that year. In 1821, the
first attempt was made to organize a government
for the Province of Buenos Ayres upon the plan of
established republics. A Junta of representatives
was elected by universal suffrage ; every male of
twenty years and upwards having a vote. The
qualifications for candidates, however, were not well
defined. This sala, or chamber of representatives, consisted
of forty-eight members, one half chosen by the city,

II _ GOVERNORS ELECTED. 159
the other half by the country. At the close of each
year, one half retired from office, others being
elected as their successors. To this assembly was
entrusted the election of a governor of the pro
vince, who was to hold office for a limited period.
The first governor chosen was General Rodri
guez ; who was no sooner elected than opposed
by a strong party, determined on his overthrow.
He was kept in power, solely by the forces under
the command of General Rosas, who then first began
to take an active part in public affairs. The city
of Buenos Ayres was for some time the scene of
fierce warfare between the friends and opponents of
Rodriguez ; until eventually, Rosas, by force of
arms, obtained possession of all the streets ; and
maintained the established government.
Don Juan de las Heras was next chosen go
vernor on the 8th of April, 1824; but finding his
office onerous and unpleasant, he resigned, and
retired into Chili. Under his administration, a
treaty was formed with Great Britain. For the
ratification of that treaty, the government of Buenos
Ayres, charged with the national executive power,
was especially authorized by the general congress
then assembled in that capital.
Don B. Rivadavia, who had been sent as minis
ter to London by General Rodriguez, and had now
returned home, was, on the 8th Feb. 1826, chosen
governor. This personage was influenced by

160 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
the most enlightened views ; but he appears to have
totally misunderstood the character of his fellow
citizens. He made the most strenuous and laud
able efforts to introduce a new and improved state
of things, but without success. During his visit
to Europe he acquired a fund of information, both
theoretical and practical ; and he sought • to engraft
upon his own countrymen, habits and reforms
such as only result from the fostering care of
long-established governments, supposing that he
could at once transform the character of the people
so as to suit his newly-acquired principles of go
vernment, instead of accommodating the latter to
the position and character of the populace. Un
happily, he was a century in advance of his age,
and failed to produce any permanent good. Chiefly
by his influence, a loan of one million sterling was
obtained from England ; which it was proposed to
expend in the construction of docks, bridges, roads,
and other works intended to develope the re
sources of the country ; but the war breaking out
with the Brazils, respecting the territory of Monte
Video, the money raised for the civil service was
expended in warfare. The blockade of the port
of Buenos Ayres by the Brazilians commenced in
January, 1826, and continued until the close of
1828, when peace was established chiefly through
the negotiations of Lord Ponsonby. In the inter
val, Rivadavia, finding his party growing feeble,

II . RIVADAVIA  DORREGO. 161
and being aware of his unpopularity, which
originated in the passing of certain laws for the
suppression of the friars, and for the sale of church
property, resigned his office, and was succeeded by
Don V. Lopez, who only retained office from the
7th July, 1827, to the 12th of August following.
The next occupant of this unlucky eminence was
Don M. Dorrego, whose fate is much to be de
plored, and deserves a passing notice. At the close
of the Brazilian war, General Lavalle returned to
Buenos Ayres with a portion of the army ; and, aided
by the enemies of Dorrego, fomented a revolution
in the city. Matters coming to a dangerous crisis,
Dorrego made his escape through a postern door of
the fort, reached the country, and put himself at the
head of some faithful troops ; but, in an action
which took place not very far from the city, he was
defeated and made prisoner. Upon his arrival at
Navarro, the head-quarters of General Lavalle,
an officer was sent to him announcing that he was
to be shot within an hour, by command of the Gene
ral. The unfortunate Governor sent a message to
the successful rebel, declaring himself under the
protection of the laws, and demanding to be tried
by them. The officer came back and said, that
General Lavalle considered Don M. Dorrego to be
out ofthe pale ofthe law (fuera de la ley) ; that his
execution would take place in an hour ; and that he
would do well to employ it in preparing any written
VOL. II. M

162 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
directions he might wish to leave, relative to his
affairs. Dorrego then wrote the following letter to
his wife : —
" My Dearest Angelita, — At this moment
they have intimated to me that I am to die: I
do not know why ; but Divine Providence, in whom
at this critical moment I place my trust, has so
willed it. I pardon all my enemies, and request my
friends not to take any steps whatever to avenge
the treatment experienced by me.
" My dearest life, educate our amiable children,
since it has been thy lot not to live any longer
happy in company of thy unfortunate
" Manuel Dorrego."
Having also written to his daughter, to whom
he sent his ring as a keepsake, and to several
friends, he desired to see a priest. One had already
been sent for, but be proved to be a near relation
of Dorrego's, and was so overcome with griefi that
the unfortunate man was obliged to comfort him,
instead of receiving his assistance. He then re
quested to see Col. la Madrid, who came to him
immediately. He reminded him of their old friend
ship, and that they had often been fellow-soldiers ;
he said he hoped that he would not refuse his last
request, that he would accompany him to the place
of execution. Madrid was affected to tears, and
replied that he could not — it was impossible; he
had not the heart to witness the death of his friend.

li - FATE OF DORREGO. 163
Dorrego then begged him to change jackets with
him, and this done, announced himself ready. The
guard entreated him to go in a coach, as it was
some distance to the place appointed for his execu
tion, but he refused, saying that he would prefer
walking. Arrived at the fatal spot, he bowed to
the officer of the guard who accompanied him
They wished to bandage his eyes, but he begged
them not to do so ; and in a few moments more,
the fearless look of the brave soldier existed only
in memory.
General Lavalle then made the following official
report : —
" Senor Minister, — I hereby inform the delegated
government that Colonel Manuel Dorrego has been
shot by my orders in front of the regiments com
posing this division. History, senor minister, will
impartially judge whether Col. Dorrego ought, or
not to have died ; and whether in sacrificing him to
the tranquillity of a nation which he had plunged into
mourning, I could have been actuated by any other
feeling than that of securing the public good.
" I wish the people of Buenos Ayres to be con
vinced that the death of Colonel Dorrego is the great
est sacrifice I could make on their behalf. &c. &c.
" Juan Lavalle."
Although General Lavalle had thus, by force oi
arms, obtained power, he was not allowed to retain
its undisturbed possession ; for General Rosas,

164 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
at the head of a small army, and aided by
Lopez, the Governor of Santa Fe, opposed him. The
city was entrenched, and the streets became the
arena for the deadly strife of these contending
armies. Rosas, however, gradually gaining strength,
it was agreed that he and Lavalle should have an
interview, and amicably terminate the struggle.
They met in a rancho, outside the Barraca bridge,
and Lavalle there agreed to retire with his partizans
from public life, yielding to Rosas and his friends
undisputed power. In the next chapter we shall see
how the future Dictator comported himself under
these circumstances.
The next governor was Don Juan Viamont,
who was elected on the 26th August, 1829.
A few months later, General Rosas was chosen
governor and captain-general; remaining in office
during his legal term of three years. On the
17th December, 1832, he was succeeded by Gene
ral Balcarre. This personage did not please
his patrons, and he was deposed by means of a
revolution. On the 5th November, 1833, Viamont
was again chosen governor ; and occupied his post
until the 1st October, 1834, when Dr. Don M. Maza
was elected. This gentleman retained office only for
a short time; but was afterwards appointed the
President of the Sala. His end was also tragical,
having been murdered, by three men wearing masks,
when sitting in his official apartments.

// - GOVERNORS OF BUENOS AYRES. 165
Such was the state of anarchy immediately pre
ceding the dictatorship of Rosas ; and as we are
now approaching that period, it will be well,
perhaps, to present, at one view, a list ofthe various
governments which had existed since the year 1810,
hy which it will be seen that during the first
twenty-five years of the country's history, it has had
thirty-six governments, giving to each an average
duration of less than nine months.
Governors of Buenos Ayres.
18101811

1812

1813

18141815

1816

* Until this period, when independence was declared, the
country had been governed in the name of Fernando VII.

May 24

B. H. de Cisneros.

May 25

Colonel D. Cornelio Saavedra.

August 26

Don Domingo Mateo.

Sept 23

Dr. D. Feliciano Chiclana.

>i

Dr. D. Juan Jose Pasos.

»»

Dr. Manuel Sarratea.

October 8

Dr. D. Juan Jose Pasos.

)»

D. Nicholas Rodriguez Pena.

n

D. Francisco Belgrano.

t,

Dr. D. Antonio Alvarez de Fonte.

February 20 D. Nicolas Rodriguez Pena.

)!

Dr. D. Antonio A. de Fonte.

)1

D. Juan Perez.

January 31

D. Gervasio Posadas.

January 10

General D. Carlos de Alvear.

April 21

General D. Jose Rondeau.

s,

General D. Ignacio Alvarez.

April 16

General D. Antonio Gonsalez Balcarce

July 11*

D. Francisco Escalada.

»»

D. Miguel Irigoyen.

July 20

D. Juan Martin Pueyrredon.

166

THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.

1819 June 9 General Rondeau.
1820 January 31 D. Juan Pedro Aguirre.
„ February 5 General Rondeau.
11 El Cabildo (The Municipality).
„ „ 12 D. Miguel Irigoyen.
„ „ 16 D. Manuel de Sarratea.
„ March 6 General D. Juan Ramon Balcarce.
„ May 2 D. Ildefonso Ramos Mexia.
„ June 13 El Cabildo.
„ „ 30 General D. Miguel Soler.
„ „ El Cabildo.
„ July 3 D. Manuel Dorrego.
„ Sept. 28 General D. Martin Rodriguez.
1824 April 8 D. Juan Gregorio de las Heras.
1826 February 8 D. Bernardino Rivadavia.
1827 July 7 Dr. D. Vicente Lopez.
„ August 12 D. Manuel Dorrego.
1828 Dec. 1 Colonel D. Juan Lavalle.
1829 August 26 General Juan Jose Viamont.
„ Dec. 8 General D. Juan Manuel de Rosas.
1832 " 17 General D. Juan Ramon Balcarce.
1833 Nov. 5 General J. J. Viamont.
1834 Oct. 1. Dr. D. Manuel Maza.
1835 April 13 General D. Juan Manuel de Rosas.
To resume the general history of the provinces :
we have remarked the failure of the " Sovereign
Assembly," and the " Congress," and also the
abortive attempt at Cordova in 1821. The pro
vinces were still without any bond of union in
1824, but in December of that year Buenos Ayres
witnessed the installation of a new " General Consti
tuent Congress," composed of deputies from each
province. This assembly did not appear to have
any thoughts of a monarchy ; but gaining expe-

„ . GENERAL CONSTITUENT CONGRESS. 167
rience from the past, at once began to lay the foun
dation of a constitution, by submitting for discussion
the following proposition : — " The question at issue
regards only the form of administration, and may
he summed up exactly in these terms : shall the
government be established under the form of federal
administration, or of unity? Will the tranquillity
liberty, and prosperity of the Republic be better
secured by dividing it into as many states as pro
vinces, which, politically allied under a federal
government for the direction of their national affairs,
shall reserve to themselves such portion of the
sovereignty, as may be necessary for their parti
cular administration ; or by forming all the pro
vinces into one state, consolidated under a central
government, entrusted with the internal administra
tion of the whole ? Which of these forms will have
the greatest tendency to organize, preserve, and
render prosperous the Argentine Republic?"
Timid in the discussion of so grave and important
a question, the Congress resolved previously to learn
the opinion of each province. The respective
assemblies of each province were applied to, and the
answers were as follows : — Cordova, Mendoza, San
Juan, and Santiago del Estero, declared in favour
of the federal form ; Salta, Tucuman, and Rioja, in
favour of unity; Catamarca, San Luis, and Cor
rientes, said they would abide by the decision of the
Congress. Buenos Ayres, the Banda Oriental,

168 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
Santa Fe, Entre Rios and Misiones, had given no
reply to the question proposed. The debates occu
pied four sessions, at the end of which period the
following resolution was adopted : — " The commis
sion for constitutional affairs shall frame the plan
for the constitution, upon the basis of a republican
representative government consolidated in a unity
of administration." Of fifty-four deputies present,
forty-three voted for this resolution, and eleven
against it. The seventh article, therefore, of the
new constitution declared — " The Argentine nation
adopts for its government the republican represen
tative form, consolidated in a unity of administra
tion." Such was the unitarian constitution of 1826, but
it experienced the same fate as that of 1819. When
it was sanctioned, civil war had again broken out
among the inhabitants of the Republic. Congress
named commissioners from its own body to present
it to each province, for their acceptance. The pro
vinces withheld their approbation, and in the general
anarchy the president, Don B. Rivadavia, resigned
the chair as already stated. Soon after, on the 18th
August 1827, the Congress itself was dissolved, and
the provinces returned again to that state of isolation
in which they were prior to 1824.
Upon the dissolution of this congress, an attempt
was made to assemble a convention at Santa Fe, to
which deputies were invited ; this experiment also

(/ _ THE ARGENTINE CONFEDERATION. 169
proved a failure; and the convention was com
pletely dissolved towards the close of 1828. With
the discomfiture of this project at Santa Fe ter
minated the general assemblies of deputies from
the provinces, and all attempts to give a constitu
tion to the country by means of congresses. Such
is a brief sketch of those national assemblies, and of
the origin of such political terms as federal and
unitarians. Upon the 4th of January, 1831, four provinces
united in a compact, or convention, ratified at Santa
Fe — these were Buenos Ayres, Entre Rios, Corrientes,
and Santa Fe ; an alliance offensive and defensive
was formed, their political creed being federal.
According to the stipulations of their 16th article,
they were " to invite all the other provinces of the
Republic, when they shall be in the enjoyment of
full liberty and tranquillity, to unite in a federation
with themselves," &c. &c. ; this compact forms the
basis of what is now called the Argentine Confedera
tion. Since that period one after another of the
provinces has from time to time given its adhe
sion, and at the present moment the whole of the
provinces have either avowedly or tacitly become
members. They are not bound by any constitution ;
but are kept together by the slender links of a
voluntary compact, cemented until his fall by the
authority and genius of General Rosas.

170 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.

CHAPTER III.
General Rosas — His correspondence with the Sala — Honours
conferred on him — Decree clothing him with absolute power
— Review of his position— Connection of the history with
Monte Video.
We have already noticed the increasing frequency of
changes in the government of Buenos Ayres, up to
the year 1834, and are thus arrived at the period
which brought General Rosas prominently before his
fellow-countrymen. The important events which
have distinguished it, the interest with which they
are regarded at the present time, and the results still
proceeding from them in the Argentine Provinces,
all enforce upon us the necessity of being minute
in recording the details of a negociatione, which not
only accumulated honours upon the successful
soldier, but invested him with absolute power. The
remarks we have to offer on this subject, and the
facts we shall mention must not be regarded
as an apology for the acts of his government, or a
vindication of his public character. As we stated

/// - GENERAL ROSAS. 171
without disguise, the impression made upon us at
the interview to which we were invited previous to
our second journey ; and as we noticed some traits
of character, without reference to any signification
they might be made to bear in an estimate of his
public career ; so, our only anxiety at present, is
to place those truthful circumstances on record.
Should any suppose that the secret history of
these events can reveal the deep and complicating
workings in the mind of Rosas, we do not quarrel
with them. Whatever severity may be ascribed
to the acts of the late ruler of Buenos Ayres, or
whatever selfishness and cruelty can be supposed
to have fitted his soul for the tyranny of the
dictatorship, it will be the duty of his judges to
look with an impartial eye upon the anarchy which
he had to reduce to order, rather than upon the
nation he was called to govern.
So early as the year 1821, the citizen Don Juan
Manuel de Rosas appears to have exercised consider
able influence over public affairs ; but it was the line
of conduct he pursued during the military revolution
under General Lavalle; and, subsequently, the success
of his expedition against the Indians, which obtained
for him the universal applause of the people. The
consideration of his eminent services was brought
before the House of Representatives on the 18th
December, 1829, when the project of a decree was
passed, which rewarded him with the most honour-

172 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
able testimonials of a people's gratitude, the particu
lar occasion for which, was his services during the
military mutiny on the 18th December, 1828. The
tokens of distinction thus decreed him were a sabre,
and a medal of honour, bearing the expressive symbols
of Law, Justice, and Valour. On one side of the
medal was inscribed, " Buenos Ayres to the Re
storer of the Laws." The obverse represented the
bust of Cincinnatus, illustrated by instruments of
agriculture and trophies of war; and, lastly, by
these most significant words, " He cultivated his
farm and defended his country."
General Rosas, on the 28th December, addressed
a note to the House of Representatives, requesting
that they would limit their approval or disapproval of
his conduct to the period of the military revolution ;
declaring that he only did his duty. He also
reminded them that their decree was dangerous
to the public liberties ; and that the history of all
ages demonstrated how the prodigality of honours
often pushed public men into the seat of tyrants.
Upon the receipt of this note the Sala published a
decree, stating, amongst other things, that the politi
cal and military conduct of citizen J. M. Rosas, as
Commander General de Campana, from the 1st
December, 1828, to 8th December, 1829, when he
became Governor of the province, " is approved of
in all its parts ;" also, " that it is declared that
citizen J. M. Rosas has been the restorer of the

/'/ ' GOVERNMENT OF ROSAS. 173
laws and institutions of the province of Buenos
Ayres." In the month of December 1832, General Rosas,
having now arrived at the term of his government,
was again elected by the Sala to continue in
office. This honour he declined, alleging as his
reason for doing so that he preferred for a season
the delights of private life ; that through the heavy
duties imposed on him, he had lost the robust
health which he before enjoyed; that its recovery
was only attainable by his retirement from state
business, and his abandonment of the grave and
delicate subjects which had occupied his attention —
by his returning to repose, and breathing the
salubrious air of the country. The Sala replied
that he might lessen the labours of office by
obtaining the aid of a deputy ; yet Rosas again
refused the responsibility they desired to confer upon
him. On receiving his communication to this effect,
the Sala appointed a committee to wait upon the
General, representing it to be the wish of the entire
population that he should remain in office. The
steadiness of his resolution was not to be shaken.
Though every one, he said, should obey the laws and
properly constituted authorities, yet no one could be
a better judge of the capability of an individual for
office than the individual himself; that it was neces
sary to call upon God and the country as witnesses,
what a governor is to fulfil ; that there is also a law

174 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
superior to all human enactments which forbids
perjury; and, if for this reason only, he prayed the
Sala to elect in his stead one of the many citizens
who were suited to the office. General Balcarce
was then chosen governor, but as already stated,
he was soon deposed by means of a revolution.
Notwithstanding the anxiety which he had ex
pressed for a life of repose, the General marched
at this time with a large army against the Indians.
The public acknowledgments and reward of his
services was again decreed in a law which passed
the House of Representatives on the 16th June
1834. By this vote the island of Choelchel was
given in perpetuity to General Rosas, and his name
conferred upon it ; in addition to which, a sword of
honour was also presented to him in recompense of
his services (as it was expressed) in the memorable
expedition of 1833 to the desert. In a reply ac
knowledging his sense of these honours, General
Rosas consented that the island should be called hy
his name, but requested that they would grant to
him as personal property, in its stead, some fifty or
sixty square leagues of government land, that he
might provide for the many poor but honourable in
dividuals to whom was due the happy result of his ex
pedition. The Sala therefore conferred upon him sixty
leagues of land, the situation to be of his own choice.
This tribute in acknowledgment of General Rosas'
services, was followed, on the 30th June, 1834, by

/// - ROSAS DECLINES OFFICE. 175
his election again to the office of Governor. As
before, he declined to act in this capacity, and
conveyed his refusal to the Sala in these words : —
"If the writer, in fulfilling his duty on this
occasion, should only lend his attention to the
sentiments of profound gratitude and respect with
which he is inspired towards the House of Represen
tatives, he would not hesitate to accept the delicate
charge they would confer upon him ; but gratitude
and patriotism degenerate from their noble nature
when exercised with indiscretion ; and the under
signed cannot look upon the public affairs of the
province as otherwise than in a state extremely
critical and lamentable, as the honourable Sala must
also necessarily regard them, when they review all
the branches of the administration, and consider the
powerful influence acquired in the country through
the immorality of its domestic enemies ; and more
than all when they call to mind the frightful breach
that has been made in the national cause of fede
ralism. It is true when the writer occupied, under
circumstances of danger, the post to which he is now
called, he was able to show front to the imminent
dangers with which the province saw itself threat
ened ; but at that time all good Argentines looked
more to the substance of things than to the glitter
of opinions, and did not allow themselves to be easily
led away by the artificial suggestions and studied
management of intriguers, and they rendered to the

176 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
writer moral elements, which arose from general
opinion, but which gradually became weak, as soon
as the cause of law and order triumphed in the field
of battle against the mutineers of 15th December,
1828. The public occurrences which took place this
year and last are yet fresh in memory, and the unjust
accusations invented against his honour through the
perfidy of a multitude of men dangerous to public
morals and order who infest the province ; and if,
when almost buried alive in the deserts, and exposed
there to all sorts of fatigues, sufferings, and dangers,
for the general good of the Republic, they have with
barefaced impudence suggested suspicions of the
intentions of the writer, to what degree of unbridled
insolence would they reach if they should now behold
him occupying the seat of government." Upon these
and other grounds, therefore, he declined to act.
When this letter was presented to the Sala, they
appointed a committee to urge upon him the accept
ance of office ; but he again refused, stating that
the general interests of the country and his honour
prevented it. On the 10th of July, these impor
tunities were renewed, the representatives now
urging upon him, that it would be noble and worthy
of the illustrious restorer of the laws to occupy a
place which circumstances had surrounded with
difficulties. This appeal, like all the former, though
backed with the express assurance, that he might
rely on the firm co-operation ofthe House in support

Ill - EMBARRASSMENT OF THE SALA. 177
of his government, was unavailing. On the 24th
of the month, the Sala again called upon him, in
the name of the people, to comply with their re
quest, offering to remove all obstacles and to co
operate with him in everything. For the fourth
time, their solicitations were steadily refused, the
General declaring that his resolution was fixed,
and unalterable; but he now hinted that their
election of him was no proof that he was called
to the assumption of power by the public voice.
The Sala, therefore, expressed their regret that
General Rosas refused to lend the country the
benefit of his valuable services in consequence
of the circumstances which he regarded as obsta
cles, and that they found themselves obliged to
accept this, his fourth resignation. They acknow
ledged the debility which he had alluded to in
the action of the government, and added that
they were resolved to remedy it, by dictating
efficacious measures which should cause the autho
rities to be respected, and render them strong in
the law.
While the government was in this state of
suspense, Rosas, on the 14th of the same month,
tendered his resignation of Commandante de
Campana, on the ground of ill health, and the
necessity of attending to his neglected property
and ruined fortunes. There can be no doubt that
his withdrawal was intended to embarrass the
VOL. II. n

178 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
authorities, and induce them to confer upon him
the unmeasured authority which he sought ; and
which he regarded as intlispensable to the efficiency
of any government in the country. Every one felt
the insecurity of the state, deprived of the only
arm sufficiently powerful to control the slumbering
passions of a people incapable of self-government.
Possibly it was the policy of Rosas to make this
keenly felt, while his partizans were secretly '
preparing the way for his accession to power ; and
as the sense of insecurity grew stronger, the machi
nations of the future Dictator became irresistible.
At length, on the 7th March, 1835, in a fever of
anxiety for the preservation of life and property
the Sala voted the following decree : —
" Brigadier General Rosas is appointed Governor
and Captain-General of the Province for the term
of five years. The entire sum of the public power
is deposited in his hands, without further restrictions
than the following : —
" 1st. That he shall defend and protect the holy
Catholic religion.
" 2nd. That he shall sustain and defend the na
tional cause of federation as proclaimed by all the
people of the Republic.
" 3rd. This extraordinary power shall continue
for such time as to the judgment of the Governor
elect shall appear necessary.
"4th. He is to appear on the 11th, and swear

Ill ~ ROSAS APPOINTED GOVERNOR. 179
to exercise the power entrusted to him faithfully, in
the mode that he may believe most convenient to
the well-being of this province and the Republic
in general."
General Rosas demanded twelve days to consider
his answer. In the mean time, the Sala declared
that their only hope in the tempestuous crisis at
which affairs had arrived, lay in his assumption of
this extraordinary authority. At length, on the
16th March, he addressed the Sala, expressing his
thanks for the honour conferred upon him ; and
after lamenting the imminent danger which threa
tened the country, from the divisions of opinion —
the clash of interests, and the pretensions of indi
viduals — all of which had totally paralyzed the ac
tion of the executive, he proceeded as follows : —
" Now that the Sala have believed, that in a con
flict of such great magnitude, the only means of
discharging their responsibility is to confer upon
the undersigned the entire sum of public power ;
inasmuch as this power (extraordinary, doubtless,
for a people idolatrous of its liberty) is the only
means of safety in the tempestuous crisis at which
public affairs have arrived, it would be dangerous
and useless in the hands of any person who, unlike
the undersigned, had not already given proofs that
it would be exercised with due propriety. It would
be equally useless in the hands of one who should
not find himself clothed with the armour, supplied

180 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
by the good opinion of his countrymen — the only
basis upon which to found extraordinary powers.
• • • • • • •
Although the magnitude and imminence of the
danger, and the means adopted to avoid it, can no
longer be matter of mere opinion, but rather an
object of public evidence, yet, the undersigned has
powerful reasons for assuring the representatives,
that in the bosom of the Sala and outside its doors
there are many persons of influence, both from
their talents and social position, whose co-operation
is above all things important to government,
amongst whom some consider the resolution taken,
not only unnecessary, but prejudicial.
" Disposed as the undersigned is, not to spare
any sacrifices which he may consider useful to the
security of the country, and the well-being of his
fellow countrymen ; he prays the Honourable Sala,
that in order to deliberate upon his admission, or
non-admission, to the elevated post, and extraordi
nary confidence, with which they have deigned to
honour him, they will be pleased to reconsider
in full Sala such a grave and delicate affair; and
to afford such facility as they may judge most
suitable, that each and every one of the inhabitants
of the city, of all classes and conditions, may register
their votes precisely and categorically upon the
matter; carrying nut this measure in such a way

.jj^ ROSAS POWER MADE ABSOLUTE. 181
as that it shall be considered at all times, and
under all circumstances, as the free expression of
general opinion."
Upon the receipt of this letter the Sala obtained
the votes of the citizens. The number of votes
registered was 9,620, of which four only were
opposed to the contemplated law. On the 6th of
April, 1835, therefore, General Rosas was entrusted
with the most absolute power by his fellow-country
men. It might reasonably be supposed that his
first measure would be the dissolution of the Sala,
as being either useless to the country or dangerous
to his own position. On the contrary, he resolved
to keep in existence the popular framework of a
republic ; no doubt with the laudable intention of
training the people to the practical exercise of
their political functions.
Whatever difference of opinion may exist in
regard to the private motives by which this man
was swayed, certain facts are indisputable. On
reviewing the history of previous governments, it
becomes painfully apparent that they did not
embrace within themselves the elements either of
order or consistency ; they seem to have been the
result of accident, more than the offspring of pre
meditated and wisely-arranged organization. The
struggle to maintain their own existence absorbed
all their care and energies ; hence the impossibility
I of deliberately preparing for the future prosperity

182 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
or greatness of the nation — the present moment
anticipating and absorbing the future.
It is impossible fully to conceive the difficult
position of General Rosas when he took the reins of
Government ; placed in absolute power over a people
who had the right to make laws, but had never
learned to obey them. We have nothing in the his
tory of European civilization with which to compare it.
In early times the feudal power laid the basis of
order : military science was then little known ; the
owners ofthe soil were expected to defend it. These
lords or barons apportioned their lands and fortunes
to their vassals, knights, or soldiers, who in return
were bound to do military service when called upon,
Centres of power were established, lord and serf,
townsman and husbandman, mutually aiding each
other. In these unhappy colonies, on the contrary,
there was no salutary organization of any sort.
The struggle for independence called into existence
a military power which, having once achieved its
primary object, should have resigned its functions
and allowed the civil right to predominate. On the
contrary, province fought with province — town
against town — until the whole country was reduced
to confusion, tumult, and doubt. To control all these
conflicting elements was a mighty task, and none
but a man of the most extraordinary energy would
have made the attempt. The military chiefs, one or
other of whom had kept the country in continued

/|| - POSITION OF ROSAS. 183
broil, together with the masses of undisciplined
soldiery, had all to be reduced to a state of unity,
obedience, and discipline. The administrators of
the laws, the people, the church, in fact all classes
and grades, were made to feel that the autho
rities must be promptly obeyed. General Rosas
at once placed himself in opposition to the ele
ments of anarchy which had previously impaired
the energies and impeded the progress of the
country. When the freedom of the citizen is beyond the
pale of the law, the State cannot prosper. The
earliest step in the history of a nation, having first
agreed upon a constitution, is to define the rights
and duties both of rulers and citizens. Such a
step, however, implies that a centre of power
exists; but in this country it was sought for in
vain ; hence the governor and the governed too
often laid aside their reciprocal duties, and thereby
destroyed all semblance of civil rule. This posi
tion, in consequence of the previous political state
of the country, involved the necessity of measures
which brought in their train the spirit of destroying
and reproducing, deranging and organizing : one
hand was occupied in pulling down, the other in
building up ; one form was substituted for another :
the ultimate aim being to base the new organiza
tion on national principles. During this complex
movement all parties were involved in confusion

184 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
and obscurity, while none saw into the future. At
such a period men's minds are not sufficiently
calm to reflect ; and therefore every grade and
class of society in their turn felt the influence of
the new order of affairs. Commerce soon perished ;
merchants complained, — representing to their cor
respondents the losses sustained, and throwing the
blame on the Government. Ministers and consuls,
perceiving the effects of this movement, reported
them to their governments, and, finally, all the
mercantile classes of Europe gladly approved of
any movements likely to neutralize such destructive
influences. Although the Government of General Rosas during
the whole period of his dictatorship is sufficiently
marked by its warlike tendencies, he contrived to
keep the seat of their operations at some distance
from his own province. The only important event
connected with the immediate history of Buenos
Ayres, is to be found in the imprisonment and ill-
treatment of a French subject. This affair, originally
trifling in itself, acquired a magnitude by the
bad temper of certain officials, and it ultimately
led to the blockade of the port by a French fleet.
To this unhappy quarrel with the cabinet of Paris,
we can clearly trace the origin of those tedious and
important events which ended in the final downfall
of Rosas.
But the principal scene of these later events was

Ill _ QUARREL WITH FRANCE. 185
Monte Video, which about this period began to
assume an important attitude. On that side of
the river the dark elements of discord were in
deadly conflict ; and with their eventful history that
of Buenos Ayres and of Rosas is now inseparably
mingled. To render this matter as intelligible as
possible we shall proceed to a brief sketch of
that province, continuing the narrative so as to
include all the important events which affected the
destiny of Buenos Ayres.

186 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.

CHAPTER IV.
Early history of the Banda Oriental— Capture of Monte Video
by the British — Struggle for independence — Civil war with
Artigas— Union with the empire of Brazil — Subsequent re
volt and success of tbe patriots.
Monte Video, sometimes called the Banda Oriental,
formed one ofthe Spanish Provinces included in the
viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres ; but its history opens
with the usual disorders of a disputed territory, in
consequence of the rival claims of the Portuguese
to its occupation. This arose from the division of
the new world by Pope Alexander VI. between
these powers — so jealous of each other in that age —
without determining their respective limits. North
of the Equator, the claims of the Portuguese, which
extended as far as the River Amazon, were un
disputed. Spreading southward, however, they
claimed the north shore of the River Plate, and
here the possession of the soil was disputed by their
haughty rivals. Their first settlement was on a

IY . EARLY HISTORY OF MONTE VIDEO. 187
point nearly opposite Buenos Ayres, where, in the
year 1680, they laid the foundations of Colonia, from
whence they were soon after expelled by the Spanish
forces. The question of right was now referred by
the disputants to the cabinets of Madrid and Lis
bon, where it was agreed to abide by the decision of
commissioners, or, in case they could not agree, by
that of the Pope. In the mean time, Colonia was
restored to the Portuguese, and the disputed terri
tory occupied in common by both nations. Not
withstanding the considerable period which elapsed
in the investigation of this dispute by the commis
sioners, they could not agree in their award ; nor
did the Pope ever pronounce an opinion. The set
tlers, on their part, grew more jealous and intolerant
of each other every succeeding year ; and, at length,
so much ill-blood was engendered, that a second
outbreak and appeal to arms was the consequence.
In 1703, the Spaniards again assaulted Colonia,
and, after a siege of six months, the garrison with
drew to Rio de Janeiro. These events led to a
renewal of the subject in Europe, but its discussion
was again without any satisfactory issue.
Far from relinquishing their claims, and still re
garding the River Plate as the natural boundary of
their possessions, the Portuguese were resolved to
form another and more promising settlement nearer
to the mouth of the river. In 1723 an expedi
tion was despatched from Rio, with orders to lay

188 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
the foundation for the fort and city of Monte Video.
The measures adopted were insufficient to secure
the success of this enterprise, and its tale was soon
told, when Zavala, the Spanish governor of Buenos
Ayres attacked the adventurers in the execution of
their purpose. Disheartened by these failures, the
Portuguese authorities at Rio made no further
efforts, and though appeals and remonstrances were
continually addressed from Lisbon to the court of
Madrid, they were of no avail. The Spanish co
lonists at Monte Video completed the works com
menced by the Portuguese, and that place soon
became a flourishing settlement.
Although the garrison of Colonia was compelled
to retire in 1703, the inhabitants were not disturbed
in their industrial pursuits so long as Zavala re
mained Governor of Buenos Ayres. If this result
were due to the benevolent care of the Spanish chief,
very different feelings were exhibited by his succes
sor, Don Miguel de Salcedo, who lost no time, on
his arrival, in requiring the Governor of the Portu
guese to meet him in conference, in order to fix the
boundary of the suburbs, beyond which it was his
intention that the inhabitants should not pas. Vas-
concellas replied, that he was without orders from
his government, and therefore could not act.
Notice was then given that, unless the Portuguese
kept within the range of their own guns, they must
be responsible for all the consequences; and the

IY- EARLY HISTORY OF MONTE VIDEO. 189
heartless Salcedo, following up his brutal threat by
immediate action, laid waste the whole territory
cultivated by the Portuguese, whose churches, pot
teries, windmills, farms, plantations, and vineyards,
were all destroyed in this barbarous warfare, and
the harmless labourers sent into captivity. Salcedo,
however, failed to reduce the fortress, and was ulti
mately defeated in 1737, being compelled to raise
the siege, after a bloody struggle of nearly two years.
The Portuguese maintained possession of Colonia
until the year 1762, when they were successfully
attacked by a Spanish expedition under Zeballas,
at that time the Governor of Buenos Ayres, and
compelled to capitulate. Those who wished to leave
the conquered territory were now provided with safe
convoy to Rio ; while such as remained had no alter
native but to become the subjects of Spain. These
desolating hostilities, which had lasted for nearly a
century, were brought to a close in 1777, when Por
tugal ceded Colonia to the Spanish Crown, and
acknowledged its sovereignty over the territory since
called the Banda Oriental. From the period of this
settlement to the year 1806, when the River Plate
was visited by the British Fleet, no circumstance in
the history of the Province appears of sufficient note
to arrest our attention. At this juncture the series
of events which interest us at the present time may
be said to commence, and the first scene is again one
of bloodshed.

190 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
Having, in another place, noticed at some length
what may be considered the impromptu assault of
the British upon Buenos Ayres, it is sufficient to
state here that when General Beresford was finally
compelled to surrender, Sir H. Popham retired with
his ships to the mouth of the river. Here he was
joined by Lieut.-Col. Backhouse, with the first
battalion of the 47th, sent to reinforce him from the
Cape of Good Hope ; and shortly after, in January,
1807, by the expedition under Sir S. Auchmuty,
which numbered about 5,000 troops, despatched
from England. Sir H. Popham, however, was now
ordered home, and Rear- Admiral Sterling succeeded
to his command.
On the 29th of Dec. 1806, the English had made
an attack upon the harbour and town of Maldo-
nado, which they captured after one day's fight
ing ; securing as their prize all the magazines
and many pieces of artillery, contained in the for
tress, and other places on the island. The loss of
the Spaniards in this engagement, including the
killed and wounded, consisted of fifty men, while
the English had to lament only two killed and
four wounded. Immediately on the arrival of Sir
S. Auchmuty, it was determined to invest Monte
Video. With this object in view, a landing was
effected on the 18th of Jan., near Carreta Punta,
nine miles to the eastward of the town, and the
following morning the besiegers moved forward to-

I<(. EVENTS IN MONTE VIDEO. 191
wards the ramparts. The troops were disposed in
two columns, the right under the orders of General
Lumley, the left under Colonel Browne ; besides
which, a force was kept in reserve, commanded by
Lieut.-Colonel Backhouse. As they advanced, a
body of Spanish horse, about four thousand in
number, attacked the right wing, when General
Auchmuty 's horse was killed under him, and about
twenty-five men killed and wounded. The British
troops then made a spirited charge, the Spaniards
retreated, and the army took up a position within
two miles ofthe citadel.
At an early hour of the succeeding day, the gar
rison moved out in two divisions, numbering six
thousand men, well supported by artillery, to attack
the besiegers. The first division was soon engaged,
and fought bravely. The English charged with
that daring steadiness which is only paralleled by
the obedient courage of the old Romans, but they
were gallantly received, and numbers fell upon both
sides. At length the Spanish column was flanked
by the British Rifle corps, and gave way in irre
mediable confusion. The other division, observing
the fate of their companions, made a rapid retreat
without coming into action. The loss to the gar
rison, in this encounter, was very great ; the English
had seventy-two killed and wounded.
The town and citadel of Monte Video stood on a
narrow peninsula, which afforded every facility for

192 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
its defence. Of these natural advantages the
Spaniards had ably availed themselves, no less than
a hundred and sixty pieces of cannon frowning de
fiance upon their invaders on the land side, and a
formidable range of batteries protecting the har
bour. The siege was commenced on the 25th, by a
fire opened from four twenty-four-pounders and two
mortars, aided by a cannonade from the smaller ves
sels. Finding the garrison not likely to surrender, a
battery was erected with a view of effecting a breach
in the wall near the south gate adjoining the sea.
This breach was reported practicable on the 2nd
Feb. ; and on the evening of that day, the town
was summoned to surrender. No answer being
returned, preparations were made to effect an en
trance by storm. The Grenadiers were combined
for this purpose, and placed under the command
of Major Campbell, of the 40th, and Major
Tucker, of the 72nd. The forlorn hope was
led by Lieut. Everard ofthe 2nd, who had earnestly
solicited this important and dangerous post. The
rest of the troops destined for the assault consisted
of the Rifle corps under Major Gardiner, the light
infantry under Lieut.-Colonel Brownrigg and Major
Trotter, and the 38th under Lieut.-Colonel Vassal
and Major Nugent ; supported by the 40th under
Major Dalrymple, and the 87th under Lieut.-Colonel
Butler and Major Miller. The conduct of the whole
being committed to Colonel Brown, and the troops

IY„ EVENTS IN MONTE VIDEO. 193
in the rear, placed under the command of General
Lumley. Orders were issued for the attack an hour
before day next morning.
It was the second hour after midnight, all being now
in readiness, when the General pointed to the breach,
distant about sixteen hundred yards. The troops ad
vanced to the assault in solemn silence, and the
moment they were discovered, a destructive fire from
every available gun, and from the musketry of the
garrison, was opened upon the column. When the
men gained the wall, they missed the breach in the
twilight, the garrison having barricaded it with hides
and earth during the night, so as to render it nearly
impracticable. In this situation, uncertain how to
act, and exposed to a galling fire, the troops
courageously stood their ground for a quarter of
an hour, when the breach was discovered by Captain
Renny of the 40th, who fell, cheering on his men.
Nothing could withstand the impetuosity and gal
lantry of the troops, who, before daylight, were in
possession of everything except the citadel, which
soon afterwards surrendered. This brilliant success
was purchased at the cost of 600 men in killed and
wounded, of whom 386 fell at the breach, among
others, Lieut.-Col. Brownrigg, Lieut-Col. Vassal,
and Major Dalrymple. The loss to the garrison was
800 killed and 500 wounded, sustained in actual con
flict, for it is a circumstance that redounds in no small
degree to the honour of their conquerors, that early
VOL. II. o

194 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
same morning the shops were open, and the inhabit
ants of both sexes peaceably walking the streets in
pursuit of their various avocations. Fifty-seven
vessels were found in the harbour, and of course fell
into the hands of the English, who kept possession
of Monte Video, and also Maldonado, and Colonia,
until the whole territory of the Plata river was
abandoned under the fatal conduct of General
Whitelocke. When this event occurred, and before the English
officers took their final departure from the garrison,
the Cabildo addressed a letter to Colonel Gore
Browne, dated 27th August, 1807, from which I
make the following extracts : —
"The moment is rapidly approaching in which the
armies of his Britannic Majesty are to evacuate this
place. . . . We should be unworthy of the name
of men were we not to acknowledge our gratitude,
and to tender our warmest thanks to you and Sir S.
Auchmuty for your generosity, forbearance, and
lenity, and for your ceaseless exertions to lessen our
sufferings, and to alleviate the miseries of war. . .
In the first moment of confusion, some trifling excess
was committed, but the same day, in the great
square, the perpetrators were publicly chastised, and
every article, however small or insignificant, found
in possession of any soldier or sailor, was sent to the
Cabildo, to be returned to the owner. Families were
treated with the utmost tenderness and respect. The

/V- EVENTS IN MONTE VIDEO. 195
pride of victorious troops who had just conquered a
city, and entered through blood and fire, was in a
moment suppressed, and their exultation reduced to
quiet and tranquillity. At no time since that period
have they caused the least disturbance or vexation
to the inhabitants. Such recollections while we live
will ever render the memory of Sir S. Auchmuty
and yourself dear to us. To both we render our
most unfeigned thanks, and we shall ever pray that
every happiness and every blessing which your ex
alted virtue deserves may attend on your steps. . .
(Signed) " Antonio Pereira.
Lorenzo de Vivaico.
Jose Manuel Ortiga.
Juan Ant. de Vastillas.
Ant. de San Vincente.
Fras. Juanico."
The time was now approaching when the success
of the revolution in Buenos Ayres would encourage
the inhabitants of the Banda Oriental also to raise
the standard of independence. The events of 1810
were hailed with acclamations by a large party, pre
pared to shake off the yoke of Spanish despotism ;
and some of the most influential inhabitants repaired
to Buenos Ayres, in order to co-operate with the
Provisional Government, and concert measures for
their common safety. Don Jose de Rondeau, and
Don Jose de Artigas, officers of the army, offered

196 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
their services to the central government ; and being
appointed lieutenant-colonels, returned to Monte
Video, invested with the command of the army
destined to operate in that province. Meantime,
Elio, the governor, had adopted such measures as
he thought necessary to maintain the authority of
the Spanish crown ; a bloody strife was therefore
commenced between the Royalists and Patriots,
in which the latter were signally triumphant.
Placed in a critical position by these successes,
Elio saw no alternative but an appeal to the Court
of Rio de Janeiro for aid on behalf of his Catholic
majesty. The result of this application was an
order for 4,000 men to aid the royal arms in Monte
Video. With this reinforcement on the one side,
and the unabated zeal of the Republicans on the
other, the struggle was maintained, with a doubtful
issue, up to May, 1812, when a treaty was con
cluded by the intervention of Lord Strangford, then
British minister at Rio. By the terms of this
treaty, the republican army was to retire to Buenos
Ayres ; and at the same time the Portuguese troops
were to return to Brazil, thus leaving the province
in the possession of the Royalists.
It was soon evident that only a truce had been
concluded, and not a peace. Within a year from
this time, Elio was superseded ; and <his successor,
Don G. Vigodet, arrived in the River Plate with
reinforcements from Spain. Upon the appearance

I/* EVENTS IN MONTE VIDEO. 197
of this armament, the Patriot army again traversed
the province, under the command of Rondeau and
Artigas, and laid siege to Monte Video. During
the operations, in consequence of a quarrel between
the two chieftains, Artigas withdrew with his fol
lowers, and despatched a letter, which was inter
cepted, offering his services to the Spanish general.
Rondeau, in the mean time, maintained the siege ;
and in June, 1814, the citadel surrendered.
General Artigas was never sincere in his co-ope
ration with the authorities at Buenos Ayres. Selfish
interests alone were the motives that influenced his
public life. At a time when that infant govern
ment was making the most gigantic efforts to libe
rate the whole of the provinces, both in the Atlantic
and Pacific, from the Spanish yoke ; and when the
crowns of Spain and Portugal were making united
endeavours to subjugate them, he darkly plotted to
seize on the province of Monte Video, in gratifica
tion of his own ambition and avarice. Unhappily,
the Patriot government of Buenos Ayres was not
in a position to chastise him for his treachery ; and
the disorganised state of the province under his
domination, furnished the occasion and pretext for
its annexation to the Brazils ; a design which had
long been cherished by the Portuguese authorities
at Rio de Janeiro. Complaining of certain aggres
sions on the frontier, and alleging their fears of the
neighbouring anarchy extending itself to Brazil

198 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
they despatched an army of occupation into the
territory. This force, consisting of ten thousand
men, under the command of General Lecor, in
vaded the province in 1816, and in January, 1817,
entered Monte Video singing a " Te Deum" for
their success.
Seven years of cruel and relentless warfare had
now reduced the inhabitants to one-half their ori
ginal number. Villages were everywhere deserted,
settlements destroyed, and the city itself reduced to
a state of miserable destitution. Artigas, during
the whole period of his domination, which lasted
four years, had not only held the plains with his
" Montenero" or wandering band of savage brigands,
but he had wantonly encouraged a piratical warfare
against Portuguese property. He was at length
defeated in the province of Entre Rios, by one of his
own former lieutenants, and taking refuge in Para
guay, was there detained a prisoner by Doctor
Francia. The Portuguese troops maintained undisputed
possession of the Banda Oriental up to the year
1821. A congress was then assembled at Monte
Video, but composed of civil employes, and others
who had received favours from the court of Rio.
This congress, by a majority of votes, incorporated
the province with Brazil as a confederate state,
under the crown of Portugal, and in virtue of this
decree, it was called the Cisplatine State. The in-

JY*.. EVENTS IN MONTE VIDEO. 199
habitants do not appear to have offered any effectual
opposition to this measure. Worn down by civil
war they could not but feel their inability to main
tain any longer a spirit of independence ; and even
those who looked with most favour upon any scheme
which promised to save them from perpetual war
fare, were sufficiently excused, considering the cir
cumstances ofthe country, then under the absolute
control of a Portuguese army. The established
authorities at Buenos Ayres, also, continued in too
feeble a state to offer any opposition. They could
do no more than protest, and claim the Banda
Oriental as by right belonging to the United
Provinces of Rio de la Plata.
But the ill-fated inhabitants of Monte Video were
not to purchase the peace they so much coveted
even by this sacrifice, for they had no sooner trans
ferred their allegiance from the Spanish crown to
that of Portugal, than they became the victims of a
bloody warfare, under the government of their new
masters. The Brazilian people at this very time
(1821) were resolved to establish their independence,
and to shake off the trammels of the Lisbon cabinet.
The army occupying the Banda Oriental was divided
on this subject ; one party led by the Baron de
Laguna espousing the cause of Brazilian independ
ence, while the other, headed by General Alvaro de
Costa, maintained their loyalty to the crown. These
adverse parties had recourse to arms. The Bra-

200 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
zilians seized on the country, while the European
troops retained possession of the city. Their
struggles continued up to 1823, by which time, the
separation of Brazil from Portugal was achieved.
It was then agreed that the authorities at Rio,
should pay all the arrears due to the troops from
Portugal, upon which General Alvaro agreed to
embark, with all his forces, for Lisbon. Under
these circumstances the inhabitants of Monte
Video found themselves in a perplexing situa
tion. Within a recent period they had been trans
ferred from the Crown of Spain to that of Por
tugal, and were now handed over to the Court of
Brazil by the obsequious cabildo (corporation)
of the city. His majesty had honoured that
body with his portrait, and, in the exuberance of
their loyalty, they thus addressed the exalted origi
nal ; at a time also when the hatred of the people,
which had long smouldered like a hidden fire
beneath their feet, was bursting out in visible and
inextinguishable flame : —
"Who is this," they exclaim, in this transcen
dental effusion, "that approaches us majestically,
with an august yet juvenile, sweet, and affable
aspect, with a gallant and heroic air, and to whom
our tribute of affection is rendered between pertur
bation and pleasure, as though we were in the
presence of the angel of the Lord ? There can be
no doubt it is Pedro the First ! His martial

,y ^ EVENTS IN MONTE VIDEO. 201
appearance, and his expressive countenance, alike
indicate his presence. By an impulse of the most
singular love, he is seated on the sublime throne,
and resting his left hand on his fulminating sword,
he has taken up with his unconquerable right hand
his imperial diadem to place it on his chosen Monte
Video. The landscape represented is like the real
landscape ; a proof that the portrait must also
resemble the original. It is a fact, sire, your Monte
Video loves you, and can say to you as a bride, I
am my lover's, and my lover is mine." *
While the convenient flexibility of this body was
rewarded in the person of the president by the order
of "Commendaria," and in that of every member of
the Cabildo by the " Habits of Christ," the great mass
of the people openly manifested their dissatisfac
tion. The deep-rooted hatred which had divided
the Spaniards and Portuguese for ages past,
evinced the impossibility of any amalgamation be
tween the Monte-Videans and their Brazilo-Portu-
guese masters. A meeting of the people had been
held on the 20th October, 1823, at which their
desire to remain in connection with the provinces
of the ancient Spanish viceroyalty, and their here
ditary dislike of their present rulers, had found
* This address is dated Monte Video, 7th Dec. 1824, and
published in the Diario Fluminense. I have adopted the
translation given by Armitage in his valuable work on Brazil.

202 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
clear expression. But these were not the only
signs of an approaching contest. Immediately
after the accession of the emperor, a charge
d'affaires had been sent to Buenos Ayres, soliciting
the United Provinces of Rio de la Plata * to ac
knowledge the independence of the Brazils, now
separated from Portugal. Before complying with
this request, a demand was made that the disputes
regarding the Banda Oriental should be first
terminated, and in the course of the year (1823)
an agent was sent from Buenos Ayres to the Court
of Rio, protesting against the usurpation of the
province, and demanding its freedom from the Bra
zilian Cabinet. This was refused by the emperor,
upon the ground that the inhabitants of Monte
Video had themselves resolved to maintain the
union. No other alternative now presenting itself,
the rejoinder was in the form of a conspiracy,
which presently issued in open revolt, among the
leading Spaniards of the city in concert with the
patriots of Buenos Ayres.
Col. Fructuozo Rivera, the leader of this move-
* It must be remembered that no such confederation or
union of provinces ever had an existence, either de jure or de
facto — never in the annals of history were there such disunited
provinces. " The United Provinces'' was an appellation given to
the revolted provinces by the forces which defeated the troops
of the mother-country, and it is from this origin alone that it
has been adopted.

jy. EVENTS IN MONTE VIDEO. 203
ment, was a native of Cordova, but had for some
time past served in the Brazilian army under Gene
ral Lecor. In order to maintain his credit with
the watchful and suspicious court of Rio, this officer,
in the month of February, 1 825, caused a letter to
be made public, in which he undertook to defend
the Brazilian connection with the loyalty of a man
of honour and a soldier. At this very time, how
ever, he had also opened a correspondence with
Buenos Ayres, soliciting their aid in concerting
measures for throwing off the Brazilian yoke ; his
party in that city being headed by Lavelleja, a na
tive of Monte Video, well known for his uncompro
mising hatred to foreign domination — a spirit which
had brought upon him the vengeance of the Bra
zilians, who not only confiscated his property, but
would have taken his life also, if he had not saved
himself by a timely flight. The critical moment
having arrived, this enterprising patriot, with thirty-
two companions, crossed the River Plate in an
open boat during a dark night in March, 1825, and
landed at Las Vacas on the Monte Video shore.
It is impossible to contemplate the daring of this
little band, without investing them with a character
of sublimity ! Although but thirty-three in num
ber, and without funds, so needful in warlike
operations, they resolved to subdue the Emperor of
Brazil, or perish! Their landing was the signal
for revolt, and few as they were, they became the

204 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
nucleus around which an enthusiastic and increasing
band was soon gathered, including all the discon
tented and enterprising amongst the gauchos. On
the 17th of April, they were joined by Rivera and
his followers, when they numbered about two thou
sand. The regular field operations of an army were
not to be thought of, but the usual guerilla warfare
commenced. To fight and to fly — to hover around
their enemies with their lazos and bolas — to harass
them by night, and disappear by day — were little
more than exciting amusement to these hardy ad
venturers, and yet of sufficiently destructive efficacy
when opposed to the ponderous movements of the
Imperial troops.
This desultory and somewhat vagrant manner of
fighting a nation's battles continued to the 12th of
October, when Rivera, observing his enemies,
about 2,000 strong, in an unfavourable position at
El Sarandi, twenty leagues from Monte Video,
resolved upon a general engagement. By this
time, his followers had obtained financial aid
from Buenos Ayres, which greatly contributed to
raise their spirits, and inspire them with cheering
expectations of the future. Under these circum
stances, the battle ended with the total defeat of
the Brazilian army ; 52 officers, and 460 men
being made prisoners.
When the court of Rio discovered the defection
of Rivera, and learned the countenance and aid he

.y_ EVENTS IN MONTE VIDEO. 205
received from Buenos Ayres, the Emperor despatched
Admiral Lobo with a naval force to that city, who
notified to the authorities that a war with Brazil
would be inevitable unless they refrained from giving
any aid to the revolted province. Garcia, the then
minister for foreign affairs, refused to satisfy the
demands made upon him, declining a reply until
the admiral should receive full powers to conclude
the discussion, and especially while he presented
himself with an armed force. He added, however,
that the government of Buenos Ayres denied the
imputation of having aided the Orientals. The
discussion of this grave affair between the two
governments was terminated on the 13th of Decem
ber, 1825, by a declaration of war, which was
followed, on the 1st of January, 1826, by the
blockade of Buenos Ayres, enforced by a fleet
of thirty sail, under the orders of the Admiral.
The government of Buenos Ayres meanwhile, an
ticipating these hostilities, had made every prepara
tion for defence. Their small fleet, consisting of a cor
vette of twenty-six guns, four brigs, and a few small
craft, was commanded by Admiral Brown, a native
of Ireland, who had already signalized himself by
his talent and bravery during the war of independ
ence. His men were for the most part English
sailors, with a few half-Indian natives from the river
Parana. In addition to this national force, letters
of marque were freely granted to all who had the

206 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
daring to act as privateers against the vessels and
property of the Brazils. Admiral Brown and his
British crews performed deeds of valour which
have rarely been surpassed in the history of naval
warfare. Although opposed by a force threefold
greater than his own, such was his skill and courage
that the Brazilians appeared to act on the belief
that their only safety consisted in avoiding their
fiery antagonist. Now we behold them flying like
frightened swans to seek shelter in Eusanada ; and
again the ever-alert islander dashes into their midst
and spreads sudden consternation throughout the
harbour of Monte Video.
With a small brig, favoured by the darkness of
the night, he attempted to capture the Brazilian
flag-ship by boarding. On approaching, however,
he became alarmed lest he should have mistaken the
Doris, an English frigate then in the river, for his
contemplated prize. In order to satisfy himself on
this point, he did not hesitate to hail her in English,
whereby the crew had timely notice of his proximity,
and, after a deadly struggle, finding his opponents
much too powerful for him, he was compelled to
sheer off.
It is not be supposed that a powerful empire
would submit patiently to these humiliating con
trasts. The disasters that usually attended all the
acts of the fleet:, induced the court of Rio to recall
Admiral Lobo, who was tried by court-martial for

|y„ EVENTS IN MONTE VIDEO. 207
incapacity, and the command given to Admiral
Guedes, aided by Commodore Norton, an English
officer, supported by the additional force of two
frigates, and several small vessels. Admiral Brown,
with his feeble fleet, could not be expected to show
front to the augmented forces now brought against
him; yet he allowed himself to be drawn into
an action on the 29th of July, 1826, when he suf
fered a defeat, which compelled him afterwards to
act more on the defensive. This disaster was
amply revenged on the 10th of July, 1827, when,
returning from a cruise along the coast, he dis
covered nineteen Brazilian vessels proceeding up
the river Uruguay. These ships he attacked with
his usual impetuosity, and after a well-contested
fight, eleven of the finest vessels became his prize,
five were burned in the action, and three only were
allowed to escape.
The privateers, meanwhile, who were chiefly Eng
lish, Americans, and French, harassed the whole
coast of Brazil. These vessels were fast-sailing
Baltimore brigs and schooners, manned by crews
who were reckless and daring in the extreme, ani
mated with enthusiasm on behalf of the United
Provinces, and emulating each other in the romance
of their enterprises. The Congresso kept her
position off the port of Rio for nearly a week,
boarding every vessel that entered the harbour ;
and finally escaping from two frigates and a brig

208 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
of war. The Niger, with only eight guns,
attacked the Maria Isabel, a frigate of thirty-
six guns, and at once attempted a capture by board
ing. An unexpected obstacle was found in the
height of the vessel, which prevented the boarders
from reaching the deck with sufficient rapidity ;
taking advantage of which, her crew rallied again,
and beat off the assailants. So great was the de
struction inflicted by these rovers of the ocean upon
the navy and commerce of the Brazilians, that,
towards the close of the war, the rate of insurance
had advanced to ten per cent, upon cargoes from
one neighbouring port to another, although under
convoy ; while, without convoy, thirty per cent, was
paid. Upon the declaration of war by the Emperor
of Brazil, the gallant Lavelleja, supported by a
large force, was despatched from Buenos Ayres
into the Banda Oriental to co-operate with the
patriots. After the battle of El Sarandi, how
ever, General Lecor made Monte Video his
head-quarters, where he concentrated his forces
during the greater part of 1826 ; leaving the whole
province in the quiet possession of the Republicans.
Secure himself in this stronghold, he made an effort
to accomplish by money that which Tie had failed to
effect by force of arms, and offered a large reward
for the head of the infamous Juan Antonio Lavelleja,
and also for the head ofthe traitor Fructuoso Rivera.

;yV EVENTS IN MONTE VIDEO. 209
If anything could evince the contempt entertained
by the gauchos towards the authors of these imperial
manifestoes, it was the daring with which they
approached the very gates of Monte Video. On
one occasion, it is related that a sentinel on duty was
lassoed, and carried off by a wandering gaucho, as if
for amusement. The charms ofthe Spanish ladies in
Montevideo seem also to have enslaved the officers of
the Brazilian army, while their general resigned
himself to the philosophical contemplation of pass
ing events ; earning for himself the cognomen of
" Fabius Secundus."
Want of success on the part of General Lecor
led to his recall, the Marquis de Barbacena being
nominated his successor. This commander soon
after his appointment issued a proclamation, promis
ing his troops and the public, that within a few days,
the Brazilian banner should float triumphantly over
the fortress of Buenos Ayres. This , boastful pro
clamation was put to shame by the battle of Itu-
zaingo, fought immediately afterwards. This was
the severest conflict of the entire war, the victory
being contested for six hours ; when the Bra
zilians fled, leaving twelve hundred men dead on the
field, and ten pieces of artillery. The loss of the
Republicans was also severe, but small compared
with that of their opponents.
During the year 1827, the Imperial troops
acted on the defensive, with the exception of a
VOL. II. P

210 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
skirmish in the month of April, at Camacua,
which terminated in favour of the Patriots.
The career of the " noble marquis," not proving
more successful than that of his predecessor, he was
recalled by the authorities at Rio, and General
Lecor restored to his command.
The war having continued for nearly three years
without any prospect of a triumph on either side,
both parties were disposed to accept the proposals of
mediation now offered by Great Britain. The
Buenos Ayreans were signally triumphant on land,
but their small naval force could offer no effectual
resistance to the fleet of Brazil. The loan of a mil
lion sterling which the former had obtained from
England was expended, and their exchequer became
exhausted. The blockade of the port had suspended
their commerce, while anarchy and disunion openly
existed amongst the Provinces. On the part
of Brazil we find disaster attending nearly all
its warlike measures, so that a prolongation of
the contest seemed to threaten the ruin of the
Empire. The privateers, well adapted for that
sort of enterprise by their shallow draft of water,
manned by English and American sailors, skilled
in marine tactics and reckless in combat, bade
defiance to tbe whole naval force of Rio. Day
by day a succession of fresh adventurers also re
paired to the Brazilian coast, to seize upon the
spoils of that sluggipl nation.

IV*- MONTE VIDEO DECLARED INDEPENDENT. 211
Such was the state of affairs in August, 1828, when
a preliminary treaty of peace was signed at Rio de
Janeiro, by the intervention of Lord Ponsonby, then
minister at that court. By this treaty, the Banda
Oriental was declared an independent state, a provi
sional government being agreed upon until a defi
nitive constitution could be framed ; the contract
ing parties pledging themselves to preserve the in
tegrity of the state for five years. At the end of
that period it was considered that the Republic
would be capable of acting for herself, and it was
therefore agreed that all external protection should
then be withdrawn. The first fruit of this treaty
was the removal of the blockade from Buenos Ayres
during the month of October following.

212 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.

CHAPTER V.
Constitution— Civil strife — War with Buenos Ayres — Offer of
mediation by Great Britain — Anglo-French intervention-
Blockade of Buenos Ayres — Expedition up the River Parana
— Battle of Obligado — Convoy reaches Corrientes— Battle of
San Lorenzo — Steam Fleet return to the River Plate —
Mission of Lord Howden— Friendly relations established
between England and Rosas.
Hope at length dawned upon Monte Video. That
hapless province, which for a century and a half
had been little else than a battle-field, was now
raised to the dignity of a sovereign state. War,
indeed, had depopulated her towns and villages;
armies had feasted upon her flocks and herds ;
agriculture had disappeared ; nor was there a
vestige of busy industry within her borders : yet in
the midst of ruin and desolation, hope pointed to a
brilliant future ; all predicted that under the shelter
of the British Crown, her career would be onward
and upward. These hopes, unfortunately, had no
foundation. The destinies of the republic were com
mitted to men unworthy of so lofty a trust. Instead
of nursing the infant state, they sought their own

Y~ CONTENTION BETWEEN ORIBE AND RIVERA. 213
profit in her weakness, and felt it no disgrace to shed
each other's blood, in their strife for patronage and
power. The observation so often made was destined
to have its truth established in the case of Monte
Video also. When ignorant politicians or designing
and selfish demagogues urge a people to grasp at
political powers, before they are qualified by the
acquisition of knowledge and virtue for so sacred
a trust, they are but launching an uncaulked
vessel, which for a while may float gallantly on
the turbulent waters, but must eventually sink
into their treacherous depths.
The Provisional Government brought their la
bours to a close in July 1830, when a constitution,
was ratified in a sovereign assembly of duly con
stituted authorities; and in the following October,
General Rivera was chosen the first President of
the republic ; Colonel, now General Oribe, being
appointed Captain of the Port. The government of
Rivera, however, did not give satisfaction to Ge
neral Lavallejaz and his friends, who complained
that they did not receive their due share of state
patronage, and who, it was soon evident, were
resolved upon its destruction. For this purpose,
Lavallejaz, having matured his plans, and strength
ened his numbers by pointing to the " spoils of
office," issued a proclamation denouncing the au
thorities, and predicting the ruin of the whole
state, unless its safety were committed to his

214 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
guardianship. The followers of these rival leaders
met in deadly conflict in 1832 ; and Lavallejaz
being defeated, sought safety by escaping to Buenos
Ayres. The four years fixed by the laws as the period
of duration for each governor, having expired,
Rivera retired from office in 1835, when Colonel
Oribe was chosen his successor ; Rivera being ap
pointed Commandante of the country. This office
was one of great importance and trust; in fact, it
placed him at the head of the army, and in these
countries, whoever commands the army, and can
reckon upon its fidelity, controls the state. Be
tween these functionaries, differences of opinion
and mutual jealousies might be expected under any
circumstances ; it is not surprising, therefore, that
they were of frequent occurrence in the present
situation of the country ; the growing discord be
tween them arose from a feeling of jealousy fomented
by their respective partizans. The urban followers of
Rivera complained that Oribe did not regard them
with due consideration, while Oribe's rural supporters
complained that they were neglected by Rivera.
These contentions became so virulent that the
government was resolved to bring the dispute to
a close, and ordered Rivera into town. Instead of
yielding obedience, he set the authorities at defi
ance: and a decree was issued, declaring him au
outlaw.

Y- FRENCH BLOCKADE OF BUENOS AYRES. 215
In order the more clearly to comprehend the
nature of the war which followed these events, it
is necessary to recur to the affairs of Buenos
Ayres. That province under the presidency of
General Rosas was involved in a civil war,
promoted by the resources and intrigue of the
French, whose quarrel with General Rosas we
have already adverted to, and whose fleets were
then occupied in the blockade of Buenos Ayres.
During the blockade, several prizes were taken,
which the French brought into the harbour of
Monte Video, for adjudication and sale. They
also expected to secure the countenance of Presi
dent Oribe in their offensive operations against
Rosas. In this hope, however, they were disap
pointed, for Oribe maintained his friendship towards
Buenos Ayres, and declined affording any facility
to the French.
At this juncture, General Rosas was contend
ing against the French, together with his more
immediate enemies, on one side of the river ; aud on
the other side, a civil war raged in Monte Video,
between General Oribe the President, and General
Rivera, the Commandante of the country. Both
banks of the River Plate were in fact the scenes
of anarchy, and bloodshed, not surpassed by their
previous lamentable history. Fresh elements of
discord daily augmented the strife. Lavallejaz,
who had fled to Buenos Ayres, as already stated, col-

216 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
lected a few hundred followers in that province, and
crossed the river to aid Oribe, while the French
made common cause with Rivera. In the earlier
stages of this bloody contest; Rivera was triumph
ant; and influenced, no doubt, by the French, as
well as inflated by recent success, formally declared
war on behalf of Monte Video against Buenos
Ayres on the 24th of August, 1838. General
Oribe soon found himself unable to maintain his
position. The harbour was commanded by the
French, while Rivera laid siege to the city on the
land side. Under these circumstances he was
compelled to resign office, and retire to Buenos
Ayres. Rivera was immediately afterwards chosen
his successor.
Under the government of Rivera the Banda
Oriental had become a valuable auxiliary to the
French, who supposed that by a single powerful
effort, they might completely subdue the govern
ment of Buenos Ayres. Lavalle, the old and bitter
enemy of General Rosas, and the leader of the
Unitarian political party, came out of his retire
ment and collected a large force in the Banda
Oriental. This army, which the French landed at
Nancaiain the province of Entre Rios, in September,
1839, was destined to invade the province of Buenos
Ayres. All who were desirous of a change, flocked
to the standard of Lavalle. To oppose this invasion1,
General Rosas raised a large army, one wing being1

y, ORIBE INVADES THE BANDA ORIENTAL. 217
commanded by General Oribe, who had sought
refuge with him. Carnage and desolation marked
the course of these contending armies. In the
mean time Rosas had managed to compound his
quarrel with the French, who willingly concluded
a treaty of peace with him : in which indeed they
sought to shield Lavalle, but that general preferred
an appeal to the god of battles, and trusted to the
chances of war. Finally, however, his army was
dispersed, and he himself, vainly endeavouring to
save his life by flight, was discovered and shot in
the province of Jujuy.
When the triumphant armies of Rosas returned
from the campaign, measures were adopted to
carry the war into the Banda Oriental, where
Rivera had maintained his position. General Oribe,
at the head of a large force, prepared to cross the
river Uruguay ; his object being to fight on behalf
of Buenos Ayres against that Republic : and at
the sarae time to re-establish himself in the Presi
dency. To make the course of events clear, it is necessary
to observe that Monte Video, during the blockade
of Buenos Ayres by the French, had received an
extraordinary accession of strength, both in her
population and increased commerce. Her youthful
history as a state, with the prestige of the good
constitution that had been secured to her, and,
also, the protection of Great Britain, had in-

218 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
duced many capitalists and merchants to select
her port as a field for enterprise. New streets,'
capacious and elegant, began to spring up, and the
governments gave every encouragement necessary
to complete the undertakings, which the combined
intelligence and skill of the mercantile community
had so far promoted. Amongst other measures a
patent was granted to navigate the rivers of the Re
public by steam-vessels under the English flag. To
develop the resources of the country it became neces
sary to import labourers from Europe ; since the
natives were so thinned by wars, as to be wholly in
adequate to the task : their habits likewise unfitted
them for any laborious pursuit. Unhappily, on this
important point, her enterprising merchants com
mitted a fatal mistake. Instead of introducing peace
able immigrants from the British Isles, or from
Germany, they imported settlers from the French
and Basques provinces. From the year 1836 to
1842, the number of immigrants landed in Monte
Video was 33,136, and as these adventurers belonged
to a race just as willing to fight as to work, the pro
gress of events soon called their warlike propen
sities into activity.
When the merchants and other foreigners inter
ested in the prosperity ofthe Banda Oriental, found
the Republic threatened by the invading army
under General Oribe, they appealed for protection to
the governments of France and England. And in

V- MR. MANDEVILLE'S LETTER TO ROSAS. 219
July 1841, Great Britain, through Mr. Mandeville
the minister at Buenos Ayres, offered her mediation.
This proposal was accepted by the government of
Monte Video, but rejected by General Rosas. The
cabinets of London and Paris subsequently resolved
to make a joint effort for the adjustment of the dis
putes, as appears by the following copy of a letter
addressed by Mr. Mandeville to Mr. Arana, mini
ster for foreign affairs at Buenos Ayres : —
" Buenos Ayres, 16th Dec, 1842.
" In conformity with the instructions which he
has received from his government, the intentions
of the governments of Great Britain and France
being to adopt such measures as may be considered
necessary for bringing the hostilities between the
republics of Buenos Ayres and Monte Video to a
close, the undersigned Minister Plenipotentiary of
her Britannic Majesty to the Argentine Confedera
tion, has the honour to represent to his Excellency,
Mr. Arana, minister for foreign affairs of the
government of Buenos Ayres, that the sanguinary
warfare at present carried on between the Govern
ments of Buenos Ayres and Monte Video must
cease; and for the interests of humanity, and of
British and French subjects, and other foreigners
established in the couutry which is now the seat
of war, he requires ef the Buenos Ayres govern
ment —

220 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
" 1st. An immediate cessation of hostilities between
the Argentine troops and those of the Republic of
the Uruguay.
" 2nd. That the troops ofthe Argentine Confede
ration—it being understood that those of the re
public of the Uruguay shall adopt the same course
— shall remain within their respective territories
and withdraw from them, should they have passed
their frontier.
" The undersigned begs that his Excellency will
acquaint him, as soon as he conveniently can, if
the intentions of the Buenos Ayrean government
are to accede to these two requests, and has the
honour, &c. &c, (Signed) "J. H. Mandeville."
This letter produced no effect. General Rosas
pushed on his army, and the two republics con
tinued a bloody strife up to Feb. 1843 ; by which
time Rivera was subdued, and General Oribe
formed his encampment at the Cerrito within four
miles of Monte Video.
The city, meanwhile, had prepared for a vigorous
resistance. Its population, augmented in the man
ner we have stated, consisted of three classes ; first,
the citizens proper called Orientalsas ; secondly, the
European settlers and immigrants ; thirdly, the refu-
geesfrom the Argentine provinces. Making common
cause against the peril which now threatened them,

V- FOREIGNERS ARMED IN MONTE VIDEO. 221
the French and Spanish Basques formed them
selves into a legion under the French colours, and
the Italians presently followed their example. Such
was the situation of the contending parties, when
other circumstances, which we shall here briefly
relate, also helped to bring about the Anglo-French
intervention. To render the acts of the French and
English Governments more intelligible, it will be
necessary to glance, not only to the position of
General Rosas at this time, but also to that of
those provinces watered by the River Parana and
Paraguay, which were immediately interested in
the issue of such intervention.
When General Rosas became the sovereign
dictator, his first acts were designed to secure his
own power, and then to extend the influence of
the provinces over which he presided. With this
view, he aimed at the subjugation of Paraguay — a
country which had never formed any political
alliance with Buenos Ayres ; but, on the contrary,
both with the pen and by the sword, so far as she
was able, had resisted all the encroachments of her
rivals, always regarding herself as a free and
sovereign state. Upon the death of Francia, it was
naturally expected that his successors would seek to
benefit their country by the revival of that commerce
which she formerly possessed, and which had com
pletely withered under the desolating power of this
extraordinary man. Governor Lopez was no sooner

222 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
in a position to act, than he gave evidence of an
ardent desire to bring his country once more into
immediate intercourse with the mercantile world ;
and to accomplish such object, he opened negotia
tions with General Rosas. The latter refused to admit
the claims of Paraguay to independence, alleging
that she was, or should be, one of the Argentine
Provinces ; and that, so soon as the government of
Paraguay should enter into that confederacy, Ge
neral Rosas would grant her the free navigation of
the River Parana, without which she could not take
the first step in the prosecution of her trade. Find
ing all intercourse with Buenos Ayres to be hope
less, the government of Paraguay made an applica
tion to the Court of Brazil ; soliciting its aid and
advice, with a view not merely of establishing her
own independence, but of securing the privilege
freely to navigate those waters, without which she
could have no foreign commerce.
When General Rosas established the Argentine
Confederation in the year 1831, the province of Cor
rientes was one of the contracting parties ; but owing
to alleged assumptions of unconstitutional power on
the part of Rosas, she never co-operated with the
government of Buenos Ayres, unless under the
influence of force. As in the case of Paraguay, the
navigation of the river was closed against her
commerce, and the surplus of her natural produc
tions was for years accumulating, only to rot upon

MARQUIS DE ABRANTEs' MISSION TO LONDON. 223
the soil, and to produce a festering influence upon
the minds of her inhabitants; causing them to hate
the power which thus kept her in poverty, and
hindered her from cultivating those commercial
relationships for which she was so well qualified by
her geographical position. Similar to that of Cor
rientes was the political situation of the province of
Entre Rios ; and the injuries she had received by
her unfortunate commercial alliance with Buenos
Ayres, were further aggravated by the fact that her
shores were watered by the River Plate. Compelled
to acquiesce in all the measures of her more power
ful ally, she was at the same time conscious that
those measures were not only sinking her into
degradation and ruin, but that all the other pro
vinces which had resigned themselves, willingly
or otherwise, to the power of Rosas must neces
sarily share her fate. General Urquiza was then,
and still continues to be, the governor of that
province. Such was the general situation of affairs in the
River Plate when General Oribe, with the troops of
Buenos Ayres, encamped against Monte Video. At
this juncture, the Cabinet of Rio resolved upon
sending the Marquis de Abrantes on a special mis
sion to the courts of London and Paris, urging the
necessity, of making warlike displays in the River
Plate. In order to its pacification, he represented
that it was only necessary to do so in form, as Gene-

224 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
rai Rosas would not have the temerity to resist the
moral and physical force thus brought against him.
In confirmation of this opinion, it was argued that
Corrientes and Entre Rios were anxious to free
themselves from the shackles of Rosas ; and that,
upon having an assurance of being sustained by
foreigners in any measures adopted for their own
freedom, they would openly throw off the yoke, and
co-operate with England and France, in whatever
was necessary for their common good. It was also
represented that Paraguay was impatient not only
to send an army, but to co-operate with the interven
ing powers in whatever they wished to accomplish.
Simultaneous with the endeavours ofthe Brazilian
government, a general movement took place in
England, having the same object in view. Nume
rous memorials were presented to Lord Aberdeen
by bankers, merchants, and all others interested
in the River Plate, entreating the effectual inter
ference of the British government, both in the
name of commerce, and in compassion for those
who had for so many years been sufferers, and
unable to protect themselves. Representations
of the same kind were made to the government of
France. The result of these combined move
ments was the arrival of Mr. Ouseley on the part of
Great Britain, and of the Baron Deffandis on the
part of the French government.
These plenipotentiaries gave General Rosas every

V — ENGLISH AND FRENCH INTERVENTION. 225
assurance of their mission being a mediation of
peace; that they only aimed at securing the tran
quillity and independence of the Banda Oriental :
that the army he maintained there must be with
drawn ; and upon his so doing, that treaties honour
able to himself and his government would be com
pleted ; but that if he remained obstinate, force
must be used. Friendly overtures, and warlike
threats, were alike in vain ; negotiations were
•brought to a close, and the ministers returned, to
Monte Video, there to concert plans for their
future conduct. It may be observed here that the
object of tbe mission, as defined by the instructions of
Lord Aberdeen, dated 20th February, 1845, was to
secure the absolute independence of the Banda Oriental
by compelling Rosas to withdraw his troops ; and, as a
secondary object, the opening of tbe rivers to free
navigation. If force were necessary, Mr. Ouseley was
instructed to consult with the commander of " Her
Majesty's naval forces in the River Plate ; to make
him acquainted with the objects proposed in the de
claration ; and to request him to concert with the
French commander, as to the mode in which it could
be carried out. . . . Her Majesty's Government
had no intention of carrying on any operations
whatever by land."
The garrison of Monte Video was by this time
reduced to the last extremity; for General Oribe
had now maintained his encampment not less
VOL. II Q

226 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
than two years close to the city, during which
period he not only exercised uncontrolled power
over the hapless province, but so effectually cut off
all supplies from the city, that at times the inha
bitants were on the verge of starvation.
To dislodge him from his intrenchments required
a native army, and as the combined powers were
not in possession of such a force, it was judged best
to transfer the scene of operations to the River
Parana. In resolving upon this measure, the pleni
potentiaries were led to believe that so soon as a
foreign fleet should ascend the rivers, the pro
vinces would simultaneously abandon Rosas, and
thus peacefully terminate the hitherto sanguinary
strife. In this hope, negotiations were opened with
Paraguay and Corrientes, and these provinces at
once, and cheerfully, responded to the proposals.
The same success did not attend a similar applica
tion to General Urquiza, the Governor of Entre
Rios ; though it was generally believed he was
ready and willing to abandon Rosas, were he only
certain that success would crown the enterprise.
Meanwhile, General Rosas remained in perfect
tranquillity, uttering defiance not only against
France and England, but against the whole diplo
matic corps of Europe ! His sense of security was
not only the result of his own indomitable spirit, but
the very points which were, in other respects, greatly
to the disadvantage of Buenos Ayres, were its most

Y- RESISTANCE OF ROSAS. 227
important defences in this crisis. From the River
Plate down to Cape Horn, her territory is without
a harbour ; along that coast she is protected by
shoals, rocks, and sand-banks. Her capital is
separated from heavy ships by shallow water, which
keeps their cannon seven miles from her citadel.
A blockade is absurd, because it is foreigners that
are ruined ; her own citizens do not suffer, there
being very few native mercantile houses in the
whole republic. An army landing on her shores
would have to fight with an enemy whose food is
beef, whose bed is a hide, and whose covering is the
blue sky; numbering, too, in its ranks, no less
than 80,000 horses, each trooper having two spare
steeds which are driven in a herd before the army,
and caught when required for relief. Such an army
moves rapidly over the country, fighting or flying
without encumbrance ; wherever they go, they find
cattle for food, and when the sun sets, they have
only to halt, eat, and sleep.
Not with these, therefore, did the governments
of France and England seek to wage a bootless
warfare. The first hostile measure against Rosas
was the seizure of his fleet, then anchored off Monte
Video, for blockading purposes, under the com
mand of Admiral Brown. Immediately after, the
Island of Martin Garcia, which guarded the en
trance to the Rivers Parana and Uruguay, was
taken possession of, the garrison retreating after they

228 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
had dismantled the forts ; at the same time the har
bour of Buenos Ayres was declared under blockade.
It is impossible to describe the sensation produced
amongst all ranks and classes of people when it was
publicly announced that the combined fleets of Eng
land and France would ascend the River Parana,
offering convoy to the merchants of all nations
who were disposed to encounter the risks of the ad
venture. The inhabitants of Paraguay and Corri
entes, who had been for so many years deprived
of the [means of exchanging their productions for
those of Europe, burned with impatience to orna
ment their persons with the silks of France, and
their houses with the wares of Birmingham and
Sheffield; while the traders and adventurous spirits
of Monte Video already possessed, in imagination,
untold wealth, as the result of their visit to the
unknown and unexplored regions of Paraguay.
Not only the native productions of the country
were to build up their fortunes, but " whatever
else God might throw in their way."
The rapidity with which so extended a mercan
tile adventure was completed is without a parallel
in the history of commerce. Nothing was now to
be heard of, nothing was now talked of in Monte
Video but the ascent of the Parana. Every
one must needs take a share in the adventure.
Ships were purchased, and loaded, with the zeal and
impatience of men who acted as if this were the

V- EXPEDITION UP THB PARANA. 229
last and the only chance they could ever expect
of acquiring fame and fortune. Soon, ninety-five
merchant vessels of all nations, with an aggregate
burthen of 6,933 tons, were prepared to join convoy.
General Rosas, on his part, took hasty and equally
energetic measures to intercept their progress :
troops were continually observed in motion along
the banks of the river ; parks of artillery, well
manned, and well furnished, were held in reserve
for every emergency ; while the lofty banks of
Punta Obligado, were selected as the spot most
likely to afford every facility for sinking the " pira
tical fleets belonging to France and England."
In the following despatch of Captain, now Sir
Charles Hotham, will be found a detail of the first
great difficulty which the expedition had to encounter
and the success which attended it.
" H. M. Ship Gorgon, Obligado, Nov. 22, 1845.
" Sir, — I have the honour to inform you that the
combined English and French force, under the com
mand of Captain Trehouart and myself, anchored on
the 18th instant, at the distance of three miles from
the batteries of Punta Obligado, in the river
Parana. At daylight the following morning we
reconnoitred the position of the enemy, and soon
discovered that great military skill had been
evinced, both in the ground chosen and plan of
defence pursued. Four batteries had been erected

230 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
— two on heights 60 feet from the water line,
and two in the intervening valley; the whole
mounting twenty-two pieces of ordnance, thirty-
two, twenty - eight, twenty -four, eighteen, and
twelve pounders ; and with the exception of a small
open space, were backed by thick woods; three
heavy chains supported by 24 vessels, were extended
across from the main land to an island : astern of
these lay ten fire-vessels, and the west end of the
chain was defended by an Argentine schooner of
war, carrying six guns. The river at this point is
800 yards wide, and the current runs three miles
per hour.
" From various sources we learn that 3,500 men,
cavalry, infantry, and artillery, were assembled ; in
short everything indicated a determined resistance.
The reconnaissance being completed, my colleague
and myself resolved on the following plan of
attack. " To form the ships into two divisions, the north
under the direction of Capt. Trehouart, to be com
posed of San Martin, Capt. Trehouart ; Comus,
acting Commander Inglefield ; Pandour, Lieut. De
Paie ; Dolphin, Lieut. R. Levinge.
" The south under the division of Commander
Sullivan to be composed of — Philomel, Commander
B. Sullivan ; Expeditive, Lieut. Miniac ; Fanny
(hired armed), Lieut. Key ; Procida, Lieut. Merande
de la Riviere.

Y - BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. 231
" These divisions to be anchored on the north and
south shores, at a distance of seven hundred yards
from No. 1 battery.
" The steamers Gorgon, Capt. Charles Hotham ;
Fulton, Lieut. Mazares ; Firebrand, Capt. Hope, to
anchor at a distance of 1 ,500 yards from the farthest
battery. " The morning ofthe 20th was foggy, but about 8
A.M., the weather cleared, and a southerly breeze
sprang up. At 8.45 a.m., the southern division
weighed, and were afterwards followed by San
Martin and Comus, Dolphin and Pandour having
previously anchored on the north shore.
" About 9.50 a.m., the batteries opened fire on
the Philomel and southern division ; on which the
Dolphin weighed ; but as some of her sails were shot
away before she reached her appointed station the
current drove her astern, and obliged her to anchor :
she was, however, admirably placed. The remain
ing ships of the north division were most ably led by
my brother officer in command, whose brig suc
ceeded in reaching her appointed station.
" The general cannonading unfortunately caused
the wind to fall light, and the remaining ships of
the north division having to contend with the cur
rent of three knots per hour, were obliged to anchor
two cables short of their stations.
" At this period the fire-vessels chained together
were cast loose, and until they had drifted past, the

232 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
steamers were prevented from anchoring or open
ing their fire.
" About 10.50, the action became general, and
the effect of our gunnery was soon apparent in the
unsteadiness of the enemy's fire ; still they fought
most stoutly. No sooner were one set of men swept
from the guns than they were replaced ; the enemy's
cavalry hovered round the wood and drove back
those who attempted to quit their posts. At 12.30,
the Republicano schooner blew up, and my gallant
friend, Captain Hope, volunteered to pull up in
his boat and cut the chain. Success attended his
endeavours, and a passage being cleared at 1 p.m.,
the Fulton passed through and flanked the batteries,
and was speedily followed by the Gorgon and Fire
brand. But prior to this the enemy's fire had told
most fearfully on the San Martin and Dolphin ; the
cable of the former being shot away, she dropped
astern, with upwards of one hundred shot-holes
through her side.
" To assist the flanking fire of the steamers, the
Expeditive and Comus were ordered to place them
selves within musket-shot of the batteries. At four
p.m., finding that the batteries fired only occasional
shots, I made the signal for boats of the squadron,
manned and armed, to rendezvous alongside Gorgon
and Firebrand, and sent to propose to my colleague
that the remaining part of our plan should be carried
into execution. The officer bearing the message

Y„ BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. 233
found Captain Trehouart occupied in moving the
French squadron close in, to cover the landing ; so,
placing entire confidence in the fire of his ships,
and knowing full well that his division of seamen
would as soon as possible support us, at 5.45
I landed with 180 seamen and 145 marines, and
giving three cheers, formed on the beach. The
skirmishing party and light company of seamen,
under the command of Commander Sullivan, led up
the hill. On reaching the crest, they were received
by a smart fire of musketry ; but the speedy arrival
of the marines, under the command of Captain
Hurdle, Royal Marines, drove the enemy back,
and the light company of seamen, under the com
mand of Lieut. A. C. Key, completed the work,
by carrying and holding the wood, the key of the
position. " Very shortly afterwards, the French brigade
landed, and the guns of No. 1, 2, and 3 batteries
were spiked and dismantled.
" On the following morning, the English and
French brigades again landed, and completed the
work of destruction ; carrying off all the brass guns,
ten in number, and retaining unmolested possession
of the grounds and woods the whole day.
" It was not to be expected that a contest lasting
from ten a.m., until nearly sunset, could do other
wise than cause the loss of several officers and men ;
and, accordingly, I have to lament the death of

234 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
Lieut. C. Brickdale, who fell early in the day : he
was an officer of great promise, and would have
been an ornament to his country had he lived. Mr.
George Andrews, clerk in charge of the Dolphin,
was also killed whilst assisting the surgeon ; he
was a valuable officer, and one of a large family,
who mainly depended upon him, and I trust their
case may be laid before the Board of the Admi
ralty. Lieut. C. Doyle is, I fear, mortally wounded,
and ere many hours must terminate his existence.
Although suffering dreadful agony from his wounds,
his mind appeared bent on the result of the action :
such a spirit must necessarily carry the sympathies
of all his brother officers. Lieutenant Levinge
reports most highly of the conduct of Richard
Rowe, gunner's mate, and Walter Ross, caulker's
mate, of the Dolphin : although severely wounded,
they remained at their quarters until the day was
won. "The aggregate loss of officers, petty officers,
seamen, and marines, amounted to —

Officers

2 killed

6 wounded

Petty officers

2 „

6 „

Seamen

3 „

9

Marines

none

1

Boys

2 „

2 „

The noble behaviour of my brother senior officer,
Capt. Trehouart, excited the admiration of all on

V» BATTLE OF OBLIGADO. 235
board ; it was evident that his brig was especially
selected for the enemy's fire, and I consider myself
very fortunate in having such an officer for my
colleague. " I have already mentioned the service rendered
by Capt. Hope in cutting the chain, and I have
to thank him for acting as my aide-de-camp when
on shore. I should be unmindful of the ability and
continued zeal of Commander B. Sullivan, did I
not bring him particularly to your notice ; by his
exertions we were furnished with a chart, which
enabled us to complete our arrangements for the
attack. "First Lieutenant Lawrance, R. M. A., also acted
as my aide-de-camp, and has a strong claim on
my gratitude ; principally through his instrument
ality a brigade of seamen has been formed, capable,
I am quite satisfied, of resisting cavalry.
I " It is impossible to conclude this despatch with
out recommending to your favourable consideration
Lieut. R. Levinge ; his little schooner occupied a
berth better suited to a frigate ; and I sometimes
trembled when I saw the shower of shot, shell,
grape, and rockets, flying over her.
" As soon as the damage sustained by the com
bined squadron shall have been repaired, Captain
Trehouart and myself intend to proceed in the
excution of our instructions, leaving two vessels of
war here to prevent the enemy offering any further

236 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
obstruction to the free navigation of the Parana. —
I have the honour, &c,
"Chas. Hotham,
" Captain and Senior-officer."
The convoy soon after reached Corrientes, free
from any serious interruption, and without any
occurrence worthy of record.
It is impossible to describe the universal joy that
diffused itself through the inhabitants of Corrientes,
on the arrival of this much-talked-of convoy. For
many years the mercantile intercourse with this
province was so effectually interrupted, that there
was an immense accumulation of native products ;
while from the same cause the people were in much
want of foreign manufactures. Questions of war
and politics were lost sight of for the still more
pressing claims and interests of commerce.
The last occasion upon which a supply of foreign
goods of any magnitude reached the province, was
of such an unusual, indeed, novel character, as to
be worthy of record. Some time after the death
of Francia, General Rosas, with a view of conciliat
ing Paraguay, issued an order that vessels might
be despatched from Buenos Ayres to Paraguay.
The immediate result of this permission was great
excitement and bustle in that port : adventurers
were in hopes of a prosperous voyage ; and mer
chants sold largely at remunerating prices. A very

V-

CONVOY AT CORRIENTES. 237

considerable fleet of small craft was rapidly fitted
out, and filled with valuable cargoes ; foreigners,
as well as natives, being largely engaged in the
enterprise. The Paraguayans, whose commerce had been
suspended for nearly forty years, desired so ardently
the arrival of European manufactures, that they
sent gun-boats down the river, as far as Corrientes,
for the purpose of giving safe convoy to the fleet.
Upon the arrival of the first vessel opposite the
harbour of Corrientes, she was ordered by the
authorities to enter the port and discharge her
cargo. To prevent this procedure, the Paraguayans
prepared to fight, but, finding themselves too feeble
to ensure success, they wisely returned home. In
this manner the entire fleet was taken possession of
by Corrientes, and their cargoes deposited in the
Custom-house stores ; the authorities at the same
time delivering to the foreigners all their own mer
chandize, upon paying the usual duty. But
the citizens of Buenos Ayres received very dif
ferent treatment : their invoices underwent a
quasi confiscation ; the mode of procedure being
as follows : — All their goods were valued at a mode
rate price, and returned to the owners, upon their
engaging to pay to the Government such valuation
within a certain period. Adventurers, however,
sold their goods at such enormous prices, that they
were able not merely to pay this assessment to the

238 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
Custom-house, but also realized very considerable
profits. This transaction, nevertheless, being based
upon the principle of barter, the profit was more
nominal than real, since Rosas kept such a strict
blockade on the river, that the merchants were
unable to bring their returns from the country. An
affair of such a character necessarily widened the
quarrel between Buenos Ayres and Corrientes, the
former making a demand of more than a million of
silver dollars against the latter, as an indemnity for
the loss alleged to have been sustained by the
citizens of Buenos Ayres. All parties, both native
and foreign, would have realized unusually large
profits, if Rosas would have given them permission
to return with their articles of barter from Cor
rientes. The greater part of such property was in
this way virtually placed under embargo, until
released by the French and English squadron.
The political condition of the country upon the ar
rival of the present convoy was not what might have
been hoped for and expected. Paraguay, indeed, sent
about ten thousand men into the province, with the
design of giving her countenance and aid to Cor
rientes, in her efforts to secure the free navigation
of the Parana; but when the troops found them
selves menaced by General Urquiza, on behalf of
Buenos Ayres, they returned home, and Corrientes,
for all martial purposes, remained inactive. Her
conduct, however, in the more mercantile aspect of

Y"^ BLOCKADE OF THE PARANA. 239
the expedition, was still more pusillanimous and
selfish, as the authorities at the Custom-house levied
unjust and exorbitant duties — unjust because
altogether unexpected. The enterprising adven
turers, however, had no other alternative than to
comply with the exorbitant demand.
It was very evident that the provinces were not
then disposed in any way to co-operate with the
intervention ; while they were willing to enjoy all
the benefits that might be conferred on them as well
by the money as the blood of France or England.
In an early stage of our narrative we found that
the bales of Manchester and of Birmingham had, in
ascending ihe river, to encounter shot and shell from
the forts of Rosas at Obligado ; while the native pro
ducts of Corrientes and Paraguay, consisting of
hides, wool, tallow, and tobacco, in going down the
river, had also to encounter a fiery assault from the
heights of San Lorenzo.
When the plenipotentiaries had accomplished all
that appeared possible for them to effect, they gave
notice to the merchants to prepare for descending
the river. Intelligence, however, had reached them
that Rosas, with a view of annoying and intercepting
their progress, had erected a strong battery on the
heights of San Lorenzo, commanding a point in the
river which would expose the entire fleet to his guns.
Undismayed by such threats, all parties were willing
to risk both their lives and their property. The

240 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
ardour with which wealthy natives and adventurous
foreigners broke up their establishments in order to
escape, proved how thoroughly shut up were all the
Riverine provinces, in consequence of the power
claimed by Buenos Ayres of closing the navigation
of the rivers, whenever caprice or warlike interests
might dictate. It now became a question of freedom
or captivity, wealth or poverty, with the merchants
and opulent natives ; for, if they did not now remove
to Monte Video, while protected by the French and
English guns, such another opportunity might never
be afforded to them. Under the influence of this
irresistible impulse, 110 vessels of all sizes, deeply
laden, and ready to join convoy, preferred the risk
of attack from San Lorenzo to the danger of being
shut up in Corrientes.
Owing to the lofty bank on which the battery was
placed, the guns from the steamers could not be well
brought into range, unless when in the very act of
approaching, or at some distance after they had
passed. When directly opposite San Lorenzo, they
were exposed to all the fury of the battery, deprived
at the same time of much chance of returning a
reply. To make amends for this deficiency, it was
contrived to plant a rocket-battery,* by night, on an
island directly opposite the heights : to the skill and
efficiency of this battery the convoy had to look for
* Mackinnon's Steam Marine Warfare in the Parana.

y_ BATTLE OF SAN LORENZO. 241
their chief protection, while obliged to pass slowly
down and expose themselves to the direct fire from
the guns of Rosas.
The signal for attack having been given, the
entire rocket party were formed in line, and felt no
great difficulty before they had reached the upper
part of the island, immediately opposite the cliff on
which the enemy's battery stood. Here there was
a considerable quantity of bushes and very long
grass, affording some shelter to the advancing force.
There was, however, no small danger of the enemy
catching a glimpse of the party while moving to the
assault; the consequence of which would no doubt
have been a shower of grape shot.
As a necessary precaution, the entire line crawled
with their faces as close to the ground as possible
until they arrived at the very brow of the hill ; and
having for a few minutes paused to regain breath,
they continued in a creeping posture, cleaving if
possible still closer to the earth, until they at length
reached the gully where they had previously buried
all things connected with the rockets and gear, so as
to have them in complete readiness to be raised when
the favourable moment should arrive. Within an
almost inconceivably short time this necessary move
ment was completed, and the deadly projectiles
were unearthed. The disposition of the rockets was
such that it would be very difficult, if not impossible,
for the enemy to strike them. The height in some
VOL. II. R

242 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
places, the unevenness of the ground in others, to
gether with various local circumstances, determined
the distances at which they should be placed from
each other ; and so complete was the natural barri
cade which the place furnished, that the ends of the
tubes were scarcely visible above it.
At intervals the signal guns were heard giving
" the dreadful note of preparation," and intimating
that different divisions of the convoy were getting
under weigh. The rocket party still lay concealed,
and observed the profoundest silence, until a move
ment upon the part of the enemy gave indication
that they were preparing for action. A dense cloud
of smoke was now descried, caused by the rapid
advance of the squadron of steamers, comprising
the Gorgon, the Alecto, the Fulton, the Gassendi,
and Firebrand, which majestically bore down upon
the battery, until they were considered within the
range of the heavy guns. The enemy seemed to
direct their attention exclusively to the approaching
steamers, apparently unconscious of the shower of
fire soon to be discharged upon them by the rocket
brigade. From right to left, in rapid succession,
the rockets now poured out their liquid streams of
fire, sending it in some instances beyond the op
posing artillery on the cliffs, but in others telling
with deadly effect amongst their masses, and also
upon the still more distant cavalry. As if wholly un
prepared for any attack from the island, the enemy

Y- BATTLE OF SAN LORENZO. 243
appeared panic-struck, and were thrown into the
utmost confusion. Shells from the Gorgon steamer
began now thickly to mingle with the discharge
from the rockets. The remainder of the squadron
still pressing forward, the enemy, with lighted
matches over their guns, appeared to wait for the
first vessel that came on their line of fire, and imme
diately let fly from the opposite heights. The report
of their guns, however, was scarcely heard amid the
roaring of all the rockets which now fiercely played
upon them. To add to their confusion a rocket struck
and exploded anammunition cart, which, in addition to
the damage done, threw them into glorious confusion.
It was now deemed advisable to cease discharging
the rockets, in order to extinguish a fire which had
been kindled in the rear amongst the grass by the
necessary operations of the rocket party. About the
same moment the Gorgon,the Fulton, and ihe Alecto,
took up their station immediately before the battery,
sent an incessant storm of shot and shells against it.
A shell from the Firebrand having struck the cliff
immediately beneath the battery, vast masses of
earth gave way and rolled into the river. This cir
cumstance induced the rocket brigade to expose
themselves on the top of the bank, for the pur
pose of giving a hearty cheer ; and being now
fully recognized, the enemy immediately directed
their guns against them : but without any effect ;
the shot either striking the bank or flying far

244 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
above their heads. The Dolphin now appeared
leading the convoy, and passed without suffering
much damage. In consequence of the number of
vessels, the attention of the enemy was greatly
distracted, and their fire became necessarily much
divided. The ammunition of the rocket party,
however, beginning to run low, a final cheer was
given, and they retired to the boats without a
single misadventure ; although a heavy fire was
directed against them during the movement.
The loss of property on this occasion was very
considerable. Four vessels deeply laden, which got
on shore, were set fire to for the purpose of pre
venting them falling into the hands of the enemy.
But considering the narrowness of the river, and
the long line of steam and merchant vessels that
had to run the gauntlet, it is surprising that the
casualties were so few. In a few days after, the
whole fleet entered the River Plate, on their way to
Monte Video.
The results of this expedition in no way altered
the position of the belligerents, although it had the
effect of proving that the provinces were not then dis
posed to give any effectual aid to the Intervention.
During these warlike proceedings in the Parana,
the cabinets of London and Paris resolved upon
making another attempt at mediation. For this
purpose Mr. Hood arrived in the River Plate in the
month of July, and made further overtures for the

Y„ ENGLISH AND FRENCH MEDIATION. 245
peaceful termination of the dispute. This gentle
man had previously filled the office of British
Consul -General at Monte Video ; and being
well worthy the confidence of all parties, was ap
pointed the confidential agent of England and
France. His mission, however, failed, although
he succeeded by his negotiation in laying the
basis of such propositions as it was thought would
greatly facilitate the speedy and final termination
ofthe war.
The hopes which arose from tbe mission of Mr.
Hood, induced the governments of England and
France to make another united effort for pacifica
tion; and in May, 1848, Lord Howden, as the
representative of England, and Count Walewski,
representing France, arrived in Buenos Ayres. The
declared object of their mission was " the devising
of a regular and practical form of convention, which
shall be the most exact carrying out, the most
complete expression of the bases of pacification
presented by the confidential agent, Mr. Hood."
Their labours were without success, and the nego
tiations with General Rosas were abruptly brought
to a close. Lord Howden, however, raised the
blockade on the part of the English fleet on the
15th of July; but Count Walewski, not concurring
in that measure, continued a blockade by the
French. The mediating powers, worn out by their repeated

246 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
efforts to bring General Rosas to a definite treaty,
resolved to terminate their intercourse with his
government, and to try their success with General
Oribe. In the execution of this project, the Hon.
Captain Gore, on behalf of Great Britain, associated
with Baron de Gros, representative of France,
arrived at Mount Video in January, 1849, commis
sioned to mediate between General Oribe and the
government of Monte Video. After several weeks of
patient and anxious negotiations, their mission was
brought to a close by General Oribe declaring him
self unable to ratify any treaty without the sanction
of General Rosas. Thus ended the sixth attempt at
mediation, in which were included four special joint
embassies from the cabinets of London and Paris.
One very important result of this latter mission,
however, was the removal of the French blockade
from the port of Buenos Ayres on the 15th June;
while, at the same time, all the ports of the Banda
Oriental occupied by General Oribe were declared
under blockade.
General Rosas, as if labouring under the influence
of some fatal delusion, obstinately resisted every
overture for a specific adjustment of the entangled
conflicts which so long desolated the shores of the
River Plate. While he, no doubt, desired peace, it
was only to be attained upon such terms as he
determined to propose.
The mission of the Hon. Captain Gore was thp

y1. ROSAS IN AMITY WITH ENGLAND. 247
last attempt on the part of Great Britain, to offer
ber mediation; this having failed, she resolved
again to establish friendly relations with the Govern
ment of Buenos Ayres. This difficult and delicate
task was entrusted to Mr. Southern. As might
naturally be expected, it was not an easy matter to
conciliate General Rosas. His fleet had been
seized, his enemies strengthened, and his territory
invaded ; yet it was still his interest to forget the past,
and, if possible, to separate England from France,
in all questions affecting his Government. Pru
dence having guided his councils, in March, 1850,
relations of amity were again established between
the Argentine Provinces and Great Britain. Upon
that occasion the Island of Martin Garcia was
formally given up, together with such a portion
of the Argentine fleet as was under English
control. When Lord Aberdeen resolved upon sending
an armed intervention to the waters of La Plata,
none doubted the wisdom and necessity of such
a measure. A few, indeed, of the merchants
of Buenos Ayres raised their voice against the
proceeding, but their veto was not heard; they
were too feeble to counteract the loud and
simultaneous expression of approbation with which
this act of the ministry was applauded. The
treasure and the lives of British subjects were,
however, unnecessarily sacrificed, in contending with

248 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
a people who should have been allowed to manage
their own affairs. And it is to be hoped that
in future the British flag will never again be un
furled to promote another " Intervention " in La
Plata.

POLICY OF BRAZIL. 249

CHAPTER VI.
Brazil becomes a principal in the contest — French motives —
Fortitude of Montevideo — Urquiza deserts Rosas and invades
Buenos Ayres — Battle of Caseros — Defeat and flight of
Bosas — The spirit of his Government — Urquiza's triumphant
entry into Buenos Ayres — Appointed Commander-in-Chief of
the Argentine Confederation — The spirit of his Government —
The Buenos Ayreans revolt, and disclaim his authority —
War between Urquiza and Buenos Ayres.
When Brazil first sent an embassy to Europe, with
the view of consummating: the Intervention on the
part of France and England, it was thought pru
dent, for many reasons, that Brazil should not appear
in the matter as a principal. For years the Govern
ment of Rosas and the cabinet of Rio had regarded
each other with strong feelings of jealousy ; it was
thought desirable, therefore, not to aggravate this la
tent feeling of hostility ; for should it happen that the
intervening powers failed to establish their laudable
mission, and that Rosas remained intact, there
was just reason to believe that his first act would

250 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
be a declaration of war against Brazil. Guided
by this policy, the emperor remained passive, so
long as success could be expected to attend the in
tervening powers ; but when such a desirable issue
became doubtful, the cabinet of Rio took the most
active and judicious measure to complete what
France and England had commenced. Let it at
the same time be remembered that the latter had
already made peace with Rosas, aud that the former
was also negotiating the basis of a treaty of peace
with Buenos Ayres. This, therefore, was the im
portant crisis when Brazil might secure herself from
all the consequences of a prolonged struggle.
Great injustice has been done to the cabinet of
Paris, by attributing to it unworthy motives for the
tenacity with which the objects of the intervention
were adhered to. France had a very large amount
of commerce at stake, chiefly centred in Monte
Video. Several thousand French subjects were
settled as immigrants and traders in the River Plate,
who had a claim on their Government, not only
for protection, but for promoting such political
measures as they deemed best for the permanent
success of their commercial interests. France had
also an old quarrel with Rosas, the sting of which
was still felt. These considerations, and many others
which might be mentioned, justified the French, not
only in entering upon the measure, but in following it
up persistently. Accordingly we find that the cabinet

V/ - FRENCH INTERVENTION. 251
of Paris acted with uniform consistency throughout
the entire affair ; more especially in resolving to
humble Rosas : nor did it relax in its efforts, until
that object was accomplished.
Neither the governments of Europe nor Brazil,
nor any of the adjoining states, had any quarrel with
the people of the Argentine Confederation : their
hostility was directed against the person and Govern
ment of Rosas. Her Britannic Majesty's Govern
ment, however, always regarded the Government
of Rosas with respect, knowing that between an
archy and despotism, in such a country, there was
scarcely any middle course.
In tracing the varied operations and negotiations
of the intervention, the local history of Monte Video
should not be forgotten. The beleaguered city
patiently sustained all the evils of a blockade and a
siege, with unheard-of fortitude : perhaps there is
no case on record, where for so long a period a
besieged city and an invaded territory so successfully
maintained even a nominal existence. To raise
funds, the revenue of the Custom-house was re
peatedly anticipated. On the failure of this source,
nearly the entire government property in the city
was sold ; exorbitant taxes were afterwards imposed :
in fact, every possible measure was resorted to, for
the purpose of saving the country from falling under
the withering influence of the Buenos Ayres dicta
torship. Had it not been that France was faithful to

252 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
their interests, they must have succumbed when Mr.
Ouseley returned to England.
Down to the close of 1851 no practical good
seemed to result from the intervention ; it therefore
became imperative on Brazil to act. In assum
ing the responsibility of a principal, she first very
wisely entered into a treaty offensive and defensive
with the Province of Corrientes and Entre Rios ;
General Urquiza having negotiated that important
measure. It has been already intimated that the chief
motive for ascending the Parana by the hostile
fleets of England and France was to give the pro
vinces of Corrientes and Entre Rios an opportunity
of declaring against Rosas, and of co-operating with
the armed intervention. General Urquiza — with
whom, at that time, rested the decision of this im
portant movement — remained faithful to Buenos
Ayres, watching the course of events ; and, although
sincerely desirous that the irresponsible authority of
Rosas should terminate, he wished to avoid taking
any active part in the measure. Time, however,
passed away, and yet brought no probability of any
termination of the war. England had given up her
struggle; the French might, perhaps, follow her
example ; and if so, the power of Rosas would then
be established beyond dispute.
Urquiza's fidelity towards the Dictator was
avowedly questioned ; it was, therefore, with him

y/^. URQUIZA TURNS AGAINST ROSAS. 253
a matter of life or death. Ultimately Urquiza
declared against his old friend and ally, and with
great skill entered into the treaty with Brazil.
Immediately afterwards followed another treaty
between the Oriental Republic and the cabinet of
Rio, when negotiations were opened with Paraguay
to join in this alliance. The declared object of the
high contracting parties was the deposition of Rosas ;
whose power and tyranny, they insisted, were incom
patible with the peace and happiness of that part of
the world.
To the most common place observer, the fall of
Rosas appeared inevitable ; yet he viewed matters
with the same calm and stolid indifference with
which he regarded all other events of a similar
character : he put his faith in his destiny ; and
merely adopted the ordinary means of defence.
Early in the spring of 1851 the Brazilian fleet
assembled in the harbour of Monte Video ; and in
July, General Urquiza moved with his army across
the Uruguay, designing to expel General Oribe and
his army from the Oriental Republic.
From the moment when Oribe first lent himself
to carry out the plans of Rosas, he was never a
free agent ; being fettered in all his movements by
the exacting requirements and commands of the
stern dictator. He must have observed with secret
approbation, the steady advance of the army under
General Urquiza, when it crossed the Uruguay, as

254 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
the measure best calculated to close the hitherto
interminable perplexities in which the provinces on
both banks of the River Plate had been involved.
Rather with a view of maintaining appearances
than of gaining any advantage, he sent out a por
tion of his army to check the advance of his nomi
nal enemies ; but as both officers and men were
already disgusted with the war, nothing was effected.
Secret negotiations in the mean time were carried
on between the two generals ; and when, by a
combination of various movements both by land
and water, Oribe's case appeared hopeless, he
was enabled with some show of necessity to
capitulate. This was, perhaps, the first and only event in the
history of General Rosas that filled him with alarm ;
he having for nearly twelve years concentrated the
whole of his powers in the person of General Oribe,
and placed the army under his control.
By the terms of the capitulation the officers and
men had the option either of returning to Buenos
Ayres, or of remaining in the Banda Oriental, under
the new and successful regime about to be esta
blished. A small minority, chiefly natives of Buenos
Ayres, returned to that province ; but the remainder,
together with General Oribe, preferred linking their
fate with Monte Video.
According to the treaty, the Emperor of Brazil
was to furnish a division of three thousand infantry,

Y/ -¦ COMBINED FORCES OF URQUIZA. 255
a regiment of cavalry, and two battalions of artillery,
well provided with horses and every other necessary.
After leaving a detachment in Monte Video, these
forces were to join the army under Urquiza, and
cross the river, for the purpose of invading the pro
vince of Buenos Ayres.
Not fewer than seventy thousand fighting men,
the largest army ever witnessed in this part of the
world, had now assembled on either bank of the
River Plate. They consisted of Germans (in the
service of the Emperor), Brazilians, Indians, and
the citizen soldiers of Monte Video ; also of the
Argentine provinces, including Entre Rios and
Corrientes. Probably the great bulk of this force
consisted of men and youths dragged from their
homes contrary to their will, to fight on behalf
of leaders for whom they had no respect, and to
take part in a struggle the object of which they
did not comprehend !
The combined army under Urquiza, after crossing
the Parana, marched rapidly through the Province
of Santa Fe, until they entered that of Buenos Ayres.
General Rosas made no attempt to check their
advance ; the only orders he issued for their an
noyance being to drive all the cattle from the
province, and to burn the grass and vegetation in
their line of march. This singular artifice might
have proved sufficiently harassing to the invaders ;
but the success was only partial in consequence of a

256 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
heavy fall of rain. The first action which took
place between the opposing armies was at Punta
Marques, where a chosen division of Rosas' troops
was signally defeated.
General Rosas, seeing the rapid approach of an
imminent crisis, resolved to take the field and com
mand in person. As a preliminary he issued a
decree, conferring upon General Mancilla the post
of Commandant General of Arms and Chief of
the Forces of the Capital; then retiring from the
city, he personally superintended the concentration
of his forces on the plains of Moron, distant eight
leagues. Both armies, amounting together to not less than
fifty thousand men, came in sight of each other on
the 2nd of February, and made such dispositions as
gave promise of an immediate action. About sunset,
General Pacheco, who commanded under Rosas,
waited on his chief with a view of urging him to
change the position of his troops, which, he alleged,
were not drawn up with sufficient skill. Rosas
adhered to his own views, and Pacheco retired,
declaring his dissatisfaction, and predictingthe result.
General Rosas appears to have taken all his
measures under the influence of despondency : nor
could it well be otherwise, since he clearly perceived
that he was deserted, either openly or covertly by al
most all those on whom at such a crisis he might be
expected to rely. His was not the desperation of a

Y) - DEFEAT AND FLIGHT OF ROSAS. 257
warrior resolved to conquer or to die, but that of a
commander who dared not to confide either in his
troops or their leaders.
During the action which now commenced, Gene
ral Pacheco, perceiving that his predictions of the
previous evening were likely to be realized, first
displayed indifference, and then withdrew with his
entire division from the field. Immediately after,
the native Brazilian troops made a gallant charge,
and succeeded in capturing the artillery of Rosas,
although well defended. These rapid movements
showed him that it was hopeless to contend ; he
therefore resolved to retire from the field, and to
save his life by flight. On his retreat towards the
city of Buenos Ayres, he disguised himself in the
costume of a peasant, and reached the house of Mr.
Gore, the British minister. Here he was joined by
his daughter Manuelita, and both succeeded in
obtaining a friendly refuge on board her Majesty's
steamer Locust. On the 10th they sailed in the Con
flict steamer for England, where they safely arrived.
The casualties on the field were few, considering
the large armies engaged. There was not, however,
much fighting, as it became evident from an early
hour of the morning that the power of the Dic
tator was at an end.
The fatal error of Rosas may be traced to his
belief that, with the materials which he found in
the provinces of La Plata, he could lay the foundation
VOL. II. s

258 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
of a prosperous empire. His knowledge, however,
proved too limited for such a project ; the range of
his observations on the civil and social conditions of
men being confined within the narrow limits of his
own country. Of history, in any enlarged or philo
sophical sense of the term, he knew nothing ; hence
it cannot be a matter of surprise that he should fall
into the mistake of attempting rashly to construct a
nation, out of elements thoroughly antagonistic in
their character. Possessing, however, great decision
of character, he succeeded in accomplishing whatever
he attempted within the sphere of his own legitimate
pursuits; whether the objects were personal or con
nected with mere local politics. Emboldened by
success, he widened the range of his ambition ; but
in doing so, came in contact with elements so subtle
in their nature as altogether to elude his control.
The traditions of his country, confirmed by his own
observations, taught him that the people, or rather
their leaders, never understood what it was either to
respect or to obey the laws ; he therefore resolved to
enforce silent observance of and passive obedience
to his decrees. For this purpose the engines he
employed were — confiscation, banishment, death.
And these terrible penalties were inflicted, either
judicially or extra-judicially, just as the occasion or
the object which he aimed to accomplish might
suggest. His natural instincts, together with the history of

// - MISTAKEN POLICY OF ROSAS. 259
his country, taught him that his associates could
not be trusted, and therefore, that in his own person
should be centred, virtually, every office of the
state. In admitting others to a share of power, he
feared they would only seek an occasion to depose
him, and so to wield that despotism which they had
wrenched from his grasp.
In his ignorance of human nature, he seemed to
think that the character of the people would be
transformed and modified by the mere publication of
decrees. A more sagacious ruler placed in a posi
tion of such authority, would speedily have placed
them under a system of training, which ultimately,
however slowly, would have prepared them for the
responsibilities of self-government. This process of
national education he never seriously attempted :
uninstructed himself, he failed to recognize its utility
or desirableness for the people.
Anarchy in his own sphere of government, as well
as in the other provinces, was so rife as to require
his utmost vigilance, not only to maintain tranquillity
but to keep himself in power. To accomplish these
ends, the severity of his measures, which possibly he
considered indispensable, was such as effectually to
crush the remaining energies of an already trampled
people ; and for every purpose, either of social or
political progress, he rendered them enfeebled and
dispirited. As may be reasonably supposed, the 3rd of Feb.,

260 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
1852, was a day of extraordinary excitement in
Buenos Ayres : if Rosas was defeated, the inhabi
tants might be subjected to insult and plunder by
the victorious army ; while if successful they were
still in the grasp of the Dictator. Stragglers from
the army soon began to arrive, and, joined by the
rabble in the town, showed every disposition to
pillage the inhabitants. Measures the most active
and vigilant were required to keep them in check;
nor would such have been speedily adopted, had not
the foreigners applied to the authorities for arms,
and organized themselves, so as effectually to check
the work of pillage. Application was also made to
General Urquiza for military protection ; which was
speedily granted. The number of lives lost in the
city was comparatively few. For several weeks,
however, both in the town and throughout the coun
try, the public peace was disturbed, and lives were
endangered by the lawless and violent.
Immediately after the fall of Rosas, General
Urquiza issued a proclamation ; and, as it may be
considered the starting point of a new era in the
history of these countries, I give it nearly in full.
In order likewise to note the stirring events of so
important a crisis, I shall record some other official
documents : —
" Citizens, — The tyranny of twenty years has
now breathed its last gasp on l|ie field of battle,

yi - PROCLAMATION OF GENERAL URQUIZA. 261
thanks to the heroic gallantry of the liberating
legions which I have had the honour to command.
" The odious Dictator ofthe Argentine, condemned
to the contempt of all the friends of humanity, to
serve as a warning and reproach to tyrants, flies
panic-struck from this land, whose sons in more
auspicious days hoisted the sacred flag of liberty.
" Inhabitants of Buenos Ayres, — The hoarse
trumpet of battle no longer sounds, and in its
stead is only heard the fraternal shout wherewith
the sons of a common revolution, the heirs of a
common glory, harmonize their patriotic affections,
and celebrate in union the shameful defeat of the
Dictator and the longed-for triumph of the Argen
tine liberty.
" Citizens, — The allied army of the vanguard
purposed to save you from the bloody tyrant who
oppressed you, and has gloriously fulfilled its mis
sion. Rosas has descended from the power usurped
from the people, and the exigencies of justice and
reason are now satisfied. A general oblivion of all
grievances, confraternity, and fusion of all political
parties, form the motto of the liberating devices.
We are all friends and sons of the great Argentine
family, except the monster Rosas, and the mis
creants who, violating their compromises of honour,
came to strengthen the ranks of the Argentine
tyrant, after having signed the convention of the
7th October of last year in the Oriental state of the

262 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
Uruguay. These will always be considered beyond
the pale of public law ; as also the insurgents in
the province of Santa Fe, who, forgetting that they
were indebted for life and liberty to the General-in-
Chief of the allied army, assassinated with infamous
treachery their chief, Colonel Don Pedro Acquino.
" Citizens, — The heroes that compose the allied
liberating legions, salute and congratulate you
through my medium. They wish you organization,
progress, and glory, and they implore them from
heaven in reward of their fatigues and vigilance.
To them are also added the fervent prayers of your
best friend, "Justo Jose de Urquiza."
A provisional government was at once organized
in Buenos Ayres, under the presidency of Don
Vincento Lopez ; and from him was issued the fol
lowing proclamation, addressed —
" To the Inhabitants of the Province of Buenos
Ayres.
" The magic word liberty will no longer be the
fallacious mask of barbarism converted into des
potism. The Provisional Government wishes no more
power than what may be founded on your devoted
hearts, and to them he appeals in the most critical
moments of your existence. You are well aware
that for thirty years, tyranny has consigned to the

Yl - PROCLAMATION OF PRESIDENT LOPEZ. 263
silence of darkness all the voices of public spirits.
You are well aware that hitherto the dearest rights
of the citizen have reverted to the infernal head of
a tyrant, crammed with frenetic passions, with
brutal habits, with atrocious instincts — who, during
his government, has only felt complacency in
destroying everything public, and in horribly amal
gamating the practice of his vices with the most
sacred names that society has formed for designating
its great institutions.
" You had fallen into ignominy ! And this people
of Buenos Ayres, who had done so much to have a
history free from crimes and abominations, such as
that of the great confederation of the North, has
now a shameful page to trace : and had it not been
that heaven had predestined the illustrious General
Urquiza to close it, that page would now have been
continued ! The Provisional Government is aware
that it is unnecessary to excite you to the enthusiasm
of gratitude ; it is aware that for you and your pos
terity his name will be loaded with blessings, and
the respect wherewith great men are named by the
communities they have created : and perhaps a long
time may not elapse without the great Washington
having a historical parallel amongst us.
" The Provisional Government considers that you
can never go to excess, whatever you may do, in
manifesting our eternal gratitude to the allied army
commanded by so illustrious a chief. There are in

264 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
it young and able soldiers, whose names, covered
with glory, are already familiar to us 
"Before the day when the arm of the Liberator
destroyed the tyranny that degraded you, only the
foreigner had guarantees amongst us : he only was
master of the labour whereby the father of a family
gave bread to his children ; he only raised his head
at sunrise to cultivate the earth and employ his hands
in industry. You — oh ! you were the patrimony of
that tyrant. Your parents and children have
perished by hundreds in the silence of the dungeons.
The industry of our country was the inheritance of
the venial, and the whole nation a speck of barba
rism, of degradation, and scandal amidst the civilized
world. " The Provisional Government has been called to
place you in the contrast of this horrible situation.
It is conceived that it may reckon with your love and
self-denial to assist it. The old man who heads it,
and who addresses you, carries the burden of the
last years of old age. You will find in him firmness
and self-denial 
" The liberator of our country has already spoken
to you of reconciliation. Yes ! reconciliation ofthe
legitimate parties of our revolution is the magic
word that approaches us to the glorious future
reserved for these communities. In that very sym
bol the instruments of the system of corruption will
receive their condign punishment who have despoiled

\'l - TRIUMPHAL ENTRY OF URQUIZA. 265
us for so many years— depriving us even of the right
we previously had of recording, without sighs and
tears, our past glories. " VlCENTO LOPEZ."
On the 19th, the Illustrious Liberator, as he was
publicly termed, made his triumphant entry into
the city of Buenos Ayres, at the head of the
allied army. The Argentines, intoxicated with the
idea of their freedom, and the novelty of their
position, were ready to do homage to Urquiza.
Followed by an army of at least twenty thousand
men, he received the shouts, the vivas of the people,
long and loud, while bouquets of flowers and trium
phal arches lent their aid to heighten the glories of
the day.
A provisional government was duly installed, and
in placing Don Vicento Lopez at its head, Urquiza
displayed both wisdom and moderation. In rapid
succession the provinces gave in their adhesion to
the new order of affairs.
When the public mind became sufficiently tranquil,
elections were held in the province of Buenos Ayres
for the Chamber of Representatives ; whose func
tions are ostensibly confined to the affairs of their
own province. Upon the assembling of this body
the elements of disunion and jealousy were suffi
ciently visible ; it was, consequently, foreseen that
harmony could not long exist between its members

266 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
and General Urquiza. While the citizens of the
province of Buenos Ayres were occupying them
selves with measures purely municipal and local, a
general movement was taking place throughout the
provinces at large, with the view of organizing a
constitution. For this purpose delegates assembed at Palermo,
the late country residence of Rosas, from Buenos
Ayres, Santa Fe, Corrientes, and Entre Rios. In
one of the articles they state, that the will of the
provinces having been now duly declared — as shown
by the notes of their various governments, adhering
to the ordinary policy inaugurated by General
Urquiza, and confiding in him the direction of the
foreign affairs of the republic till the assembly of
the national constituent congress — they resolved, in
order to remove every doubt and anxiety on the part
of foreign powers, that General Urquiza, the com
mander-in-chief of the allied liberating army, be
authorized to direct the foreign relations of the re
public till the national congress should assemble and
definitely nominate to the office.
Such meeting being only provisional, Urquiza
invited the governors of the provinces to a meet
ing to be held at San Nicolas during the month
of May. In consequence of this invitation, eleven
governors assembled ; when the general affairs
of the confederation were freely discussed, and
several important resolutions adopted : among

YJ ^ URQUIZA APPOINTED DIRECTOR. 267
others, that steps should be taken to organize an
assembly whose duty it should be to frame a consti
tution. For this purpose they sent copies of their
proceedings to the various provinces, inviting them
to send two delegates from each province to meet
at Santa Fe in the ensuing August. During the
interval they appointed General Urquiza provisional
Director ofthe Argentine Confederation.
This movement on the part of the provinces fully
met the sanction of Don Vicento Lopez, the dele
gate for Buenos Ayres; but very different views
were entertained by the Chamber of Representatives,
and the inhabitants generally. A groundless, yet
a deep-rooted jealousy appeared to exist between
the province of Buenos Ayres and all the other
provinces. On the present occasion there was
perhaps some cause for apprehension on the part
of Buenos Ayres, since the object that manifested
itself in the movements of Urquiza and his sup
porters was so to readjust the Custom-house and
other important departments, as to intrench upon
those prerogatives which this province always con
sidered to be her own.
In the discussions that resulted, both in public
and private, we need not feel surprised that the
ordinary bounds of moderation were transgressed.
The press was not free from censure : its tendency
being to bring the authorities into disrepute, and to
perpetuate the elements of confusion. In self-

268 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
defence, therefore, the authorities were compelled
to issue a decree curtailing its liberty.
Political events in this country advanced rapidly.
When Lopez returned from San Nicolas, he was
met with such a burst of disapprobation , both within
and without the Chamber, for the part which he
took in the discussion at that city, that he found it
necessary to resign his office. The loss of such
a man to the State, at such a moment, was deeply
to be regretted. He possessed a combination of
qualities rarely centred in any one man; besides
being the author of the national anthem, and vene
rable in years, he was of unblemished reputation
and a true patriot.
His resignation was accepted by the Chamber, and
General Pinto named his successor. In accepting
the resignation of Lopez, the Chamber resolved to
place itself in a hostile position towards Urquiza,
for orders were immediately given to the executive
powers not to enforce any decrees issuing from
the assembled governors of the provinces. This
order was instantly followed by a decree from
Urquiza, closing the Chamber of Representatives,
and placing the government under the manage
ment of the Council of Finance ; but which, being
first greatly increased in numbers, was now denomi
nated The Council of State. Don Nicolas Anchorena
was named President of the Council.
It need scarcely excite any surprise that one of

yj _ PROPERTY OF ROSAS RESTORED. 269
the first hasty acts of the authorities, after the fall
of Rosas, should be a confiscation of his property
for the benefit of the State. At the recommenda
tion of Urquiza, however, the Council of State now
reversed that decree ; and in doing so, after stating
that a great part of his moveable rural property
had already disappeared, without advantage to the
public treasury, they say " the confiscation of the
property of General Rosas as a political measure
the council unanimously regrets. Confiscations, in
the opinion of the council, even should they be
practised in the name of liberty, almost always
serve to fortify arbitrary power, and to enslave
communities. Confiscations inevitably prepare civil
war. Civilization condemns them."
The " Council of State" had but a brief existence.
The restrictions placed upon the press, together with
closing the doors of the House of Assembly, kept
the public mind in a continued ferment; and an
opportunity soon offered itself, upon the occasion of
General Urquiza's absence in Santa Fe, to express
that feeling in a hostile act. The following public
announcement will show what then took place in
Buenos Ayres : —
" Bulletin Extraordinary to the People.
" Providence has decreed that the sun of the 1 1 th
September should illumine a new picture for the
Argentine family.

270 THE argentine provinces.
" The rights of our beloved country, trampled
on by the caprice of a man whom the adulation
and sordid interests of a handful of miscreants
misled from the path of legality, are once more
reinstated. " Argentines ! the moment has arrived for showing
the world that it is necessary once for all that we
live tranquil. Let each, therefore, lend his co
operation, that the Argentine Republic, being or
ganized as soon as possible, may disprove the idea
entertained by other nations that we could never
live unless ruled by brute force.
" At midnight two Corrientino battalions formed
in their barracks, in the Retiro square, headed by
General Madariaga, and a brigade of artillery,
under command of Commandant Solano, and came
to Victoria-square.
" The battalion, under Colonel Zejerina, and that,
under San Martin, likewise formed in the square.
Before day-break the Cabildo bell was rung to
assemble the people in the square.
" It would be superfluous to add that the pa
triotism of the Argentines responded to that vibra
tion, which called them to recover their lost glory.
" The movement was headed by the meritorious
Generals Piran and Madariaga, and the most per
fect harmony attended the enterprise, which opens
a new page in the history of the communites ofthe
Plate.

yi„ THE CHAMBER REINSTATED. 271
" We salute the enlightened men who have co
operated in this great enterprise.
" Viva la Libertad." (Constitution Printing Office.)
When this bloodless revolution was consummated,
the Chamber of Representatives assembled, at once
recognized the movement, and declared themselves
re-installed ; they then appointed General Pinto
Governor ofthe Province.
When tidings of these events reached Urquiza,
his first mental impulse was to chastise the leaders
of this daring movement ; but, happily, his mind
soon gave place to more peaceful councils. He
then sent Colonel Baez to Buenos Ayres, bearing
the following despatch : — " Saa Nicolas, Sept. 15, 1852.
" To his Excellency the Provisional Governor, Don
Manuel Guillermo Pinto.
" After the undersigned has made immense sacri
fice in behalf of the public liberties, and for the glory
of his country, and sees with regret that they have
not been able to diffuse through the Argentines the
grand design of our national organization ; — and
desiring moreover, now that the city of Buenos
Ayres has disavowed the authority of the under
signed, to avoid the disasters that would ensue — in
short, the effusion of blood and anarchy that would

272 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
devour us, and for the purpose of giving the world
another testimony of the rectitude of his principle
and the purity of his patriotism, he has determined
to commission near the Government of your Excel
lency, Colonel Guillermo Baez,to whom he has given
the necessary instruction for that purpose : and the
undersigned trusts Y. E. will give entire faith and
credit to all the aforesaid Colonel may manifest and
say in the name of the undersigned.
" God preserve your Excellency many years.
" Justo Jose de Urquiza."
Meanwhile, Urquiza gave orders for the imme
diate return of his own troops to Santa Fe, where
he himself soon after followed, declaring that he
would never again interfere in the affairs of the con
federacy, but would limit his public life to the con
fines of his own province.
The Chamber of Representatives, in an official
despatch to the provinces, endeavour to find a justifi
cation for the late emeute. The spirit of the document
was to the effect that they had long suffered under a
military dictatorship; and that they viewed with
alarm the spirit of Urquiza's government: they
professed to discover in it certain elements, which, if
not checked in time, might place them again under
another Dictatorship.
What was said of Britain, by Gibbon the histo
rian, respecting the state of its inhabitants when

y/- BUENOS AYRES OPPPOSED TO URQUIZA. 273
the Romans retired from the country, may with
great truth be applied to the Argentine Provinces
upon the fall of Rosas. " They contemplated their
new freedom with surprise and terror ; they were
left destitute of any civil or military constitution,
and their uncertain rulers wanted either skill, or
courage, or authority to direct them."
i General Urquiza retired to his own province,
desirous of seeing his country in the full enjoyment
of peace and commercial prosperity ; but subse
quent events seem to predict the perpetuity of
anarchy and bloodshed to these ill-fated countries.
The province of Buenos Ayres has become
alarmed at the general tendency of the reforms
proposed to be introduced by Urquiza and his
paTtizans. If these organic changes were carried
into effect, it is alleged they would lessen the power
and privileges hitherto exclusively enjoyed by her.
To check this spirit of innovation, the Chamber of
^Representatives have resolved to crush Urquiza and
those who advocate his views ; and for this purpose
they have sent a military expedition into the pro
vince of Entre Rios.
In this fratricidal course, we have the beginning
of a movement, which, if not timely checked, may
again involve all these provinces in a civil war, no
less bloody and exterminating in its nature than
those of the preceding.
VOL. II. T

274 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.

CHAPTER VII.
Province of Corrientes — Its form of government— War with
Rosas — Female troops— Confiscation of property — Habits of
the people — Foreigners — Natural productions of the soil —
Monetary affairs — Religion.
As the province of Corrientes is almost unknown
to the world, and is moreover likely to have an im
portant bearing upon the future destinies of this
country, a brief but condensed view of its social
and political relationships may not here be deemed
altogether out of place.
Like all the other Argentine Provinces, Corrientes
has its own constitution and government, based on
very simple elements. It is divided into fourteen
departments, each sending one deputy to congress;
the capital sends two ; thus giving a legislative
assembly of fifteen members, each citizen having a
vote. The franchise is exercised by electing five
men in each department, with whom rests the choice

//; _> PROVINCE OF CORRIENTES. 275
of the deputy. When congress first meet, they no
minate their own president, and then appoint a
Governor, who holds office during a term of three
years, unless deposed by a revolution.
In the Governor is vested the power of appointing
to all offices in the State. The revenue is derived
chiefly from the customs' duties, and the tithes;
there is also a fund accruing from taxes, somewhat
similar to the excise duties levied in Great Britain.
The amount usually collected prior to the late war,
was about one hundred and sixty thousand Spanish
dollars per annum.
The fixed salary of the Governor is three thousand
Spanish dollars per annum, with sundry privileges
and immunities. In times of peace, about a thou
sand men usually constitute the standing army;
hut during war, every male from fourteen to sixty
years of age must enter the militia. Government
requires each department to supply its propor
tionate quota of troops. No regular pay is received
by the men ; they are, however, supplied with
clothing, costing less than three pounds per annum
for each man. Beef is also regularly served out to
the troops, without any expense to the State, as the
owners of cattle-farms are obliged to keep the
army well supplied. Were this assessment equit
ably adjusted, none would complain; but such
is by no means the case. A small monthly
supply of tobacco and yerba is also dealt out to

276 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
each man as a luxury. A large ox-hide forms a
tent for the officers when upon active service, while
the men sleep on their saddles. A supply of horses
for the army is exacted in the same manner as beef
is procured. From the period of the revolution down to the
year 1837, nothing of a serious nature occurred to
disturb the permanent and increasing prosperity
of the inhabitants. In that year, however, the
Buenos Ayres Government being at war with
Monte Video, and claiming Corrientes as one of
the Argentine Provinces, required from the Governor
of Corrientes both men and money, as auxiliaries ;
this demand not being complied with, hostilities at
once commenced. Entre Rios, the adjoining pro
vince, immediately received peremptory orders from
General Rosas to send a formidable army against
Corrientes, and to invade that province. A con-:
siderable engagement shortly afterwards took place
at Pagos Largos, attended with much slaughter, but
which did not terminate the issue of the campaign.
Several other actions, more or less decisive,
afterwards took place between the belligerents, up
to the year 1841 ; when General Rosas again ordered
another army to enter Corrientes, under the com
mand of General Echague. This force was opposed
by General Paz, who commanded the troops in the
service of the Province. Paz first placed his army
on the north side of the river Corrientes ; Echague

A CORPS OF AMAZONS. 277
took up a position on the opposite bank. Both
armies for nearly two months remained inactive;
each waiting, as is uniformly the case in this country,
to take some advantage of the adversary. Availing
himself of the night, Paz, with considerable skill,
passed his army across the river, and placed his
troops in such a position that no choice was left
them but either to be themselves cut to pieces,
or conquer. Both armies were about equal in
number, amounting together to nine or ten thousand
fighting men. Before the morning of the battle,
Paz issued peremptory orders not to give any quarter.
His troops were commanded with much skill, and
fought with great bravery, routing their enemies,
who, having been panic struck, fled to the nearest
woods for shelter. The vanquished followers of
Echague became bewildered amidst the woods and
morasses, where they were hotly pursued by the
victorious troops of Paz, who showed the retreating
army little mercy.
Upon this occasion Paz had a division in reserve,
consisting of about nine hundred women, who were
well mounted and armed with lances. They were
passive spectators during the fight ; but the moment
they perceived that the enemy was routed, they
dashed into the river, and having reached the oppo
site bank, joined both in the spoil and the carnage;
continuing the pursuit for several days. These
amazons are familiar with the management of horses

278 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
from childhood, and are not much inferior to their
male comrades in arms, either in skill or prowess.
Whenever an army moves, hordes of women accom
pany them; and whatever number of horses are
required for the men, a similar number must also be
furnished for the women. They appear to enjoy this
kind of gipsy-camp life; and, indeed, so determined
are they to follow the troops, that if any of the girls
apprehend detention by their friends, they are accus
tomed to conceal themselves in the woods, or some
other place of assignation, until an opportunity
offers of joining their favourite warriors. The wives
of the soldiers usually remain at home, attending to
their domestic duties. Although the Government
is not bound to find horses for the women, yet they
are aware that unless every facility is afforded to
the troops to be accompanied by their female aux
iliaries, they will desert : indeed, troops never leave
their native villages until the women are fully pre
pared to accompany them.
Immediately after the late engagement, General
Paz proposed to enter the territory of Entre Rios,
and chastise his enemies at their own door ; but his
troops, refusing to comply with his orders, at once
disbanded themselves and returned home. His
prisoners, however, who numbered about twelve
hundred — strange as the circumstance may appear —
consented to follow his standard, and to march into
Entre Rios; but they soon after mutinied. Paz

YK - CORRIENTES CONQUERED. 279
and a few of his officers then retired into the Banda
Oriental. The next general engagement was in the year
1843, when the united armies ofthe Banda Oriental
and Corrientes, under the command of General
Rivera, encountered the Buenos Ayres troops under
Oribe, at Arroyo Grande. The latter being victo
rious, made about nine hundred prisoners ; most of
the officers were put to death, while the privates
were compelled to fight under the banner of the
conqueror. At this crisis the affairs of Corrientes were re
garded so despondingly, that Don Pedro Ferre, the
Governor, fled into Paraguay ; the principal offi
cers retired to Brazil, and the troops returned
home. General Urquiza, who was then command
ing on behalf of General Rosas, marched a victo
rious army of about two thousand five hundred men
into this ill-fated province, and appointed a govern
ment favourable to the views of Rosas. When this
government was formed, it entered upon very un
popular measures.
Commissioners were immediately appointed to
value all the moveable property of the citizens, who
were taxed to the amount of about one-third ofthe
whole : this forced contribution was to be levied
promptly, and in hard money. Proceedings of so
harsh a nature, together with assassinations com
mitted both within the precincts of the town and

280 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
throughout the country, made the inhabitants ar
dently desire a change.
At this juncture, Don Joaquin Madriaga, an
exiled Governor, returned from Brazil, with offi
cers and men to the number of about one hundred ;
he found the inhabitants so willing to join his
standard, that he soon had the command of
fifteen hundred fighting men. With this hastily
organized force he continually harassed the army
of General Rosas, which consisted of about three
thousand five hundred men, until he finally ex
pelled them from the territory, and then himself
assumed the reins of government. Such is a fair
example ofthe rapid growth of power by which the
chiefs in the Argentine Provinces often raise them
selves to the highest pinnacle of authority and
power, only to be cut down, perhaps within a few
weeks or months, by some equally daring but more
fortunate adventurer.
The population of Corrientes consists of about
32,000. The aborigines are nearly extinct, there
not being more than about 500 of pure blood in
the province ; yet the Indian language (Guarini),
manners, and admixtures of blood prevail to an
extent almost universal. The great majority of
the people constitute a mixed race, derived from
Spanish and Indian ancestors. Negroes, the rem
nant of slavery, are also to be found amongst the
population ; but they are rapidly becoming extinct :

VII* POPULATION OF CORRIENTES. 281
and soon the Africans here must cease to have a
name. Mulattoes are not numerous. Although
the pure native Spanish race is inconsiderable in
number, all the wealth and influence is possessed
by them. About six or seven hundred constitute
the entire European population. In point of num
bers, the Spanish take precedence ; next, the French ;
and, lastly, the Italians. Not more than twenty
British subjects are fixed residents of the country ;
and they are chiefly engaged in commercial pur
suits. The French employ themselves in every class
of industry ; but the Italians are confined princi
pally to the navigation of the rivers, and the
various branches of industry arising out of that
pursuit. Generally speaking, the wealthy and in
fluential are unfriendly towards foreigners ; who are
looked upon as intruders, coming to the country
not to benefit its inhabitants but merely to pro
mote their own interests : and whenever public levies
were required for the maintenance of government,
they have been too often made to feel that they
were aliens. The labouring classes, on the contrary,
are partial to foreigners; from whom they receive
better pay and kinder treatment than from their
own countrymen.
The town of Corrientes, which is the capital, is
situated on the river Parana. On this river there
are four other principal ports; and on the river
Uruguay, three ; each having officers appointed to

282 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
collect the customs. In the interior there are not
more than eight or ten small villages. Pastoral
pursuits constitute the chief occupation of the great
majority of the people, especially upon the estancias.
Sheep from Europe have been introduced at con
siderable expense ; but they do not thrive, and are
subject to many casualties. Large crows destroy
the lambs by picking out their eyes ; and those
which escape the maggot, are subject also to a
swelling in the throat ; by which disease great
numbers are carried off. They are now propagated
on estancias, chiefly as food ; for if oxen are killed
in hot weather a considerable part of tbe carcass is
liable to become unfit for use. In consequence of
a deficiency in the population, there is little or no
attention paid to agriculture ; and although the soil
is peculiarly suitable for the cultivation of the sugar
cane, cotton, rice, and other tropical productions,
yet these sources of industry and wealth are almost
wholly neglected. Sugar-canes are in some in
stances planted, from which to extract molasses,
but solely for purposes of distillation ; while, at the
same time, the article of sugar is imported from
Brazil ! The other productions are — barley, maize,
tobacco, arrow -root, sweet potatoes, melons, and
pumpkins, together with all the vegetables and
fruits peculiar to the tropics.
In this province the men are not industrious :
they only labour to obtain a bare livelihood, which

I) , PRODUCTS AND INDUSTRY OF CORRIENTES. 283
is easily effected ; for anything beyond this object
they have no desire, their ambition being exclusively
directed to an equestrian outfit, which must be of
rich material— silver, if possible. When mounted
on a good steed, they reach the acme of their
wishes. For mechanical pursuits they have no
taste whatever ; and, with the exception of fur
nishing a few pilots, they never enter upon the
navigation of their own rivers : these sources of
industry are exclusively in the hands of Euro
peans. Estancias are possessed by the wealthy and better
classes amongst the natives. Commercial pursuits
appear too intricate, and require too much personal
application to fall in with their taste. The women,
on the contrary, are extremely industrious : in
winter they spin, and weave garments from their
own cotton for their summer dress ; and in summer
they spin and weave cloth from native wool, for
their winter dresses ; in general, however, their
clothing consists of English gray calico, prints,
and woollen cloth. Large quantities of cheese are
also made by them for consumption in their own
families, and for sale. In addition to the thousand
in-door duties of these industrious wives, they assist
in ploughing, hoeing, and reaping ; take care of
the tobacco crop ; act as shepherds ; and are, in
every respect, infinitely more hard-working and
useful than their husbands.

284 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
Seldom is the wealth of a peasant less than from
thirty to forty cows, forty to fifty mares, with one or
two hundred sheep. Their houses are easily erected,
the walls being formed of upright timbers, across
which are placed horizontally cane reeds, made fast
with thongs of hide ; the structure is then plastered
with mud, and whitewashed. The roof is usually
thatched with palm-leaves. Four stakes planted in
the floor, to which are secured, by thongs of hide,
slips of cane reeds, form the bedstead : upon this
frame-work is placed a large ox or cow hide,
with sheep-skins or cotton-wool laid on it as a
mattrass. Sleeping in the open air is very general,
in consequence of the delicious character of the cli
mate : the practice, however, is for the most part
confined to the male members ofthe family.
Marriages are contracted at an early age ; the
females not usually exceeding fourteen or fifteen
years of age. Milk, cheese, beef, mandioca — which
is the potato of the country — with fruits and abun
dance of vegetables, constitute their usual food.
Indeed, these poor people live in the midst of abun
dance : they do not know what it is to want for any
necessary of life — hence their hospitality is boundless.
I sincerely wish that I were able to speak as
satisfactorily oftheir moral and mental character as of
their domestic habits. In the consideration of their
morals, however, it must not be forgotten that the
great mass of the people can trace their ancestry

Yll .. HABITS OF THE PEOPLE OF CORRIENTES. 285
back to Indian mothers ; and from such an origin
a quick and lively perception of what is usually
termed virtue must not be expected. It should also
be remembered that the State has not made any pro
vision whatever for their religious instruction; hence
the office of the priesthood, if filled at all, is dis
charged at present by men, either with or without
character, who have sought a refuge in those pro
vinces from the civil wars of Spain, and who indulge
in all the slothful habits of Italian monasteries.
Corrientes is well situated for commerce, and is
extremely fertile ; the southern and eastern depart
ment is generally undulating, and excellent for pas
ture; in every other direction it is low, the soil
being light and sandy, but producing good crops.
AU its rivers take their rise in Laguna Ybera ; they
are about ten in number, and empty themselves into
the Parana and Uruguay. Although one-half of
the territory is covered with timber, yet it does not
possess the character of a country abounding with
forests ; but rather resembles artificial plantations,
which, instead of hindering the cultivation of the
soil, as in North America, rather give facilities to
the comfort and industry of the people. The palm-
tree is that which chiefly prevails ; and it might, by
proper cultivation, become a source of much wealth.
When carefully tapped, a saccharine juice is ob
tained, from which spirits can be distilled: in
autumn, the nuts afford food for cattle, sheep, and

286 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
swine ; the leaves make excellent hats, and good,
substantial thatch ; and the stem, when cut into
proper lengths, the pith being extracted, makes
excellent house tiles. For house and ship building,
all other descriptions of timber in the province are
excellent; but in general so hard as not to be
available for being worked into domestic furniture.
Many thousand square miles are covered with palm-
trees, affording a delightful shade to the inhabitants;
while the soil beneath them produces the finest pas
tures. Some authors have ventured to assert that salt
petre mines are prevalent throughout the province ;
this point I have carefully examined, and feel bound
to say that it does not possess a saltpetre mine, or
any other description of mine or mineral. It yields
dye stuffs, however, in great abundance : the na
tives can produce every colour, and all fast; nor
do they need any foreign aid except that of alum.
Near the town of Goya are some small lakes,
possessing peculiarities worthy of notice, but which
have hitherto been altogether overlooked or un
known by travellers. Their waters destroy all vege
tation on the banks, while their detergent power
is so great, that a piece of woollen cloth, saturated
with grease, will become perfectly clean by a few
minutes immersion and washing. It is asserted by
the negroes who reside in these localities that, if
children habitually bathe in these waters, their hair

\ril - DETERGENT LAKES OF CORRIENTES. 287
assumes a light brown, or chestnut colour : they
also considerably change the colour of the wild
water-hog, when it long frequents the vicinity.
Originally the currency of the province consisted
of gold and silver : but, to maintain the late war
with the government of Buenos Ayres, paper money
has been issued, to the extent of 150,000 dollars,
guaranteed by the personal property of some of the
wealthy and influential citizens. This first issue was
found wholly inadequate, and a second issue was made,
upon government security. As may be naturally
supposed, this paper has not maintained its original
value. At first it was at par, and for seventeen paper
dollars a doubloon would be exchanged ; but this
currency has become subject to such continued fluc
tuations and depressions, that at one period it re
quired more than seventy paper dollars for which to
obtain a doubloon. There exists no bank in the
province ; nor is it usual to lend money ; but if bor
rowed, about two per cent, per month is paid for the
accommodation. Of all Church property the State took possession.
The clergy are now maintained solely by the income
derived from the celebration of the offices of reli
gion, such as confession, baptism, marriages, and
prayers for the dead. Churches are chiefly built
and repaired by alms and offerings ; yet the pa
tronage is still retained by the government. There
is neither bishop nor monastery nor nunnery in

288 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
the country ; nor can the Church be said to possess
any element of perpetuity, either internal or exter
nal. Religion derives its support from the volun
tary aid of the people, who attach an efficacy to the
observance of certain ceremonies.

CONCLUDING REMARKS. 289

CHAPTER VIII.
CONCLUDING REMARKS.
The rivers naturally separate the provinces — Policy of Great
Britain — The Banda Oriental — Importance of free access to
her capital — English Church in Monte Video — Revenue of
the Argentine Provinces — English bondholders — Futility of
a Congress— Question of education — Commerce demands
caution.
The commercial advantages to be obtained by
Great Britain as the result of her late warlike inter
vention in the affairs of the River Plate, are not as
yet very obvious ; at no remote period, however,
we may reasonably expect that results important in
themselves, and permanent in their duration, will
be fully realized.
Beyond the labyrinth of negotiations and wars
from which we have been endeavouring to emerge,
a clear prospect seems to open of a solid foundation
upon which to build our hopes for the future.
Paraguay has been recognized by all the surround
ing states, as an independent republic ; and ber
commerce is already free to the world, by the act of
VOL. II. u

290 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
theArgentineConfederatlon, decreeing thattheRiver
Parana shall be open to the flags of all nations.
To take advantage of this unexpected measure,
Great Britain should, without loss of time, open nego
tiations with Paraguay ; taking as their basis the
" treaty of amity, and commerce," which exists with
the government of Buenos Ayres. It is to be
earnestly hoped that Lord Aberdeen, under whose
ministry the late intervention was organized, will
not fail to complete what he so ardently com
menced. Upon Sir Charles Hotham, at present on
a special mission to the River Plate, should be
urged the importance of proceeding to Paraguay,
there to press upon its government the advantages
of opening a commerce, direct with Great Britain.
In its political aspect, the opening of the River
Parana is of more importance than when viewed as
affording facilities for commerce. The provinces on
the north bank of the river most interested in this
measure are those of Corrientes and Entre Rios ; and
these, by their recent treaty with Brazil,* have com
mitted themselves to a course, which if successfully
carried out, must tend to secure their pacification.
Were Paraguay, Corrientes, and Entre Rios to
maintain political relations with Monte Video, the
permanent prosperity of these countries would be
rendered absolutely certain. Indeed, the with
drawal of the two latter named provinces from the
* Appendix A.

y;/l- POLICY OF THE NORTHERN PROVINCES. 291
Argentine Confederation, would contribute more
than any other act, to the tranquillity and freedom
ofthe inhabitants ; and also to the commerce of the
country. Hitherto they have been kept in the
most abject bondage by the powers at Buenos
Ayres ; the present is therefore the critical moment,
when they should free themselves from such an
oppressive and injurious alliance. If the Argentine
Provinces were capable of self-government, no such
measure would be necessary or perhaps desirable ;
but when the province of Buenos Ayres itself is
incapable of managing her own local affairs, how
improbable is it that she can attempt, even with
the aid of a congress, to bring under one govern
ment, the entire thirteen provinces. Nature and
necessity, therefore, urge upon the inhabitants on the
north bank of the river, to organize for them
selves all the functions of sovereign states. They
should commit the management of their foreign
relations to the government of Monte Video. So
long as they remain connected with Buenos Ayres
either fiscally, or politically, they must be bound up
with, and embroiled in all the consequences of her
acts. These provinces have the deepest interest in
the free navigation of the Parana ; and the opening
of that river will demonstrate how little they are
dependent upon Buenos Ayres. When they shall
have experienced the practical utility of trading
either direct with Great Britain, or with Monte

292 THR ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
Video, they must immediately be satisfied of their
own absolute independence, and the consequent in
convenience of being in any way fettered by a union
with their wealthy and jealous rival.
To maintain, however, the uninterrupted naviga
tion of these waters, which have been already
declared free by all the competent authorities, the
British Government should not delay to avail itself
of the privilege : a British war steamer should con
tinually ascend and descend these rivers, giving to
English merchants the countenance and protection
they so absolutely need.
Paraguay, during the whole of her vicissitudes,
cherished the hopes of a direct foreign commerce.
When Francia found that in this matter he was
entirely at the mercy of Buenos Ayres, he isolated
his country, and hermetically sealed his jiorts ; prac
tically declaring that if his people could not obtain
their manufactures direct from England, they should
look to their own cotton and wool for all needful
fabrics. Her present government is no less impa
tient for the enjoyment of commercial freedom; and
in her late treaty* with the Argentine Provinces, she
has stipulated to open an intercourse with Bolivia.
Looking at the geographical position of Paraguay,
too much importance cannot be attached to the ulti
mate advantage to be gained by British enterprise,
if political relations were fully and cordially esta-
* Appendix B.

Ylll~ POSITION OF THE BANDA ORIENTAL. 293
Wished between the two countries. Spain sought
to make the rivers Plate and Parana, the great
high-way of commerce to Peru and Chili ; thus
avoiding the risk of a voyage round Cape Horn.
Paraguay is in close proximity to the mining regions
of Bolivia and Brazil, and opens an intercourse
to the whole of that boundless world, stretching
away to the Andes. Her natural products com
bine those of a temperate and inter-tropical climate,
while her salubrity has became proverbial.
A glance at the position and prospects of the
Banda Oriental, better known as Montevideo, can
not, in connection with this subject, be considered
out of place.
This country, situated at the mouth of the River
Plate, with. a commodious harbour, a fertile terri
tory, and a healthy climate, is destined to be the
ultimate metropolis of this coast, and of those
boundless inland regions. Its importance, as being
the key to this part of the continent, has been
practically acknowledged by the nations and races
which for nearly two centuries have shed their blood
and expended their treasure in contending for its
possession. With the exception of its boundary on
the Brazilian frontier, three-fourths of its coast is
accessible to navigation. The Atlantic, and the rivers
Plate and Uruguay, give it facilities for commerce not
possessed by any other country in Spanish America.
It would seem, however, that the causes which

294 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
should have elevated this state amongst the nations
of the earth, have proved the occasion of its de
population and ruin. The aborigines, Spaniards,
Portuguese, English, Brazilians, Buenos Ayreans,
and French, have all made it a battle-field ; each
seeking to possess this territorial gem. During the
carnage of these conflicting powers the Indians were
first exterminated. Their successors, a mixed race
of Indian, Negro, Spanish, and Portuguese blood,
with a slight sprinkling of pure Spanish families,
were the next to feel the exterminating power of
war. At the present moment two-thirds of the
inhabitants are foreigners ; and as their wealth and
influence constitute them a kind of imperium in im-
perio, it cannot be expected that the native citizens,
who are comparatively so inferior in property and
numbers, should supply the materiel for a stable
government. At the close of the first quarter of a
century of her history as an independent state, we
find her not only desolated as to her plains, but
ruined in her towns and capital city. Out of this
chaos she can but slowly emerge, unless conducted by
some friendly, though foreign hand. Amid anarchy
and revolution the infant constitution must perish,
unless protected by the fostering care of some
stronger power. Her inhabitants never possessed
within themselves the capabilities of steady pro
gression ; although, perhaps, in this respect not
behind any other Spanish colony; and now they

YU) - TREATY WITH BRAZIL. 295
are less qualified than ever to maintain even the
semblance of nationality, if unsustained by external
aid. It is unreasonable to expect that such a popu
lation, crushed by a war of forty years, and tortured
by repeated political revolutions, could at once
transform themselves into useful citizens and wise
rulers. This view of the position of the Banda Oriental
appears to be fully recognized and acted upon by her
Government , which has prudently entered into a
treaty* with Brazil; and this, if carried out in good
faith, will shield her from many of the evils already
anticipated. To her cordial relations with the
cabinet of Rio, we must hereafter mainly look for
grounds upon which to cherish any strong hope of
future prosperity.
Many other considerations might be urged to
prove the absolute necessity of giving to this terri
tory an efficient government, and to show that it
is the interest of European cabinets to adopt every
peaceable measure for effecting this object ; which
becomes still more pressing, when viewed with
reference to the commercial and political advan
tages likely to arise from the free navigation of
these rivers,
The commerce of Buenos Ayres has been sus
pended for eight years, by three blockades, during
the last tweuty-two years, * Appendix C.

296 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
The Brazilian blockade continued for ... 1004 days.
TheFrench  949 „
The Anglo-French intervention  659 „
The same continued by the French alone 341 „
From the belligerent spirit which the Chamber
of Representatives displays at this moment to
wards General Urquiza, we have sufficient reason
to believe that the destinies of Buenos Ayres are
not controlled by wise or pacific counsels. It is
therefore a desideratum of great magnitude to the
mercantile world, to secure in Monte Video a safe
guard for their peaceful avocations, should Buenos
Ayres prove herself unwilling to cherish friendly
relations with her sister provinces, or with foreign
powers. Hereafter the maritime world may look
with comparative indifference on the proceedings of
Buenos Ayres, when cargoes can be deposited with
safety in the port of Monte Video; and when a
world-wide commerce in the River Parana shall
find protection from the flags of England or France.
It is scarcely to be expected that institutions,
either political or social, which ameliorate the evils
of humanity, or which tend to expand and enrich
the human intellect, could speedily take root in
Monte Video ; yet, in the midst of national anarchy
and ruin, it is a consolation to those who look be
yond the present moment, to find that there is hope
in a coming future. As one example of the enlight
ened liberality and public spirit of British merchants,

y(f?~- LIBERALITY OF BRITISH MERCHANTS. 297
who would extensively benefit this province if op
portunity offered, it may be mentioned that Samuel
Lafone, Esq. erected a handsome edifice, which he
presented to the British Government, in trust, for
English residents there to celebrate public worship,
according to the rites ofthe Church of England. The
foundation-stone was laid by Commodore Purvis,
Commander-in-Chief of her Majesty's Naval Forces
on the station, in the month of January, 1844; and
the structure was opened for divine service on the
19th April, 1846, the Rev. John Armstrong being-
then the chaplain. It will accommodate about 600.
This gentleman whose generosity we have the
gratification here to record, belongs to that class of
thinkers who desire to elevate our race, and who
feel that it is the moral and intellectual training of a
people which can alone achieve such a work, or
qualify them either to enjoy domestic happiness or
discharge the duties devolving upon them as citizens.
I cannot here close my remarks without grate
fully acknowledging the valuable assistance afforded
me in my investigations by the late lamented Don
Florencio Varela. His death, by the dagger of an
assassin, at sunset, in the principal street of Monte
Video, gave a shock to society in the River Plate,
not easily forgotten. He was an ornament to social
life, as a gentleman, a scholar, and a politician.
The experience of nearly half a century enables us
to judge, with something like accuracy, what the Ar-

298 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
gentine Provinces ought to do for the purpose of self-
government, and also what they should not attempt.
The city and province of Buenos Ayres has been
always placed in a false position, not merely towards
the other provinces, but in her relations with foreign
powers. During the long and protracted struggle of
these colonies with the mother country in their efforts
to secure and maintain the independence of both
banks of the Rio de la Plata, the whole, or nearly
the whole, weight of the burden fell upon Buenos
Ayres. That province contracted a debt of a
million sterling with Great Britain, which was
partly absorbed in civil strife, and partly expended
in maintaining the independence of the Banda
Oriental, when threatened by the armies of Brazil.
Towards these national expenses the other pro
vinces never contributed a penny ; nor has Monte
Video made any return whatever for the services
rendered to her by Buenos Ayres, when struggling
for her own freedom. The enormous debt, which
now presses with so much severity upon the Chamber
of Representatives in Buenos Ayres, was not con
tracted for the benefit of that province solely, but
on behalf of the whole of that vast region which at
one time formed the viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres.
In point of fact, the city and province of Buenos
Ayres was called upon to discharge all the functions
and to incur all the responsibilities of a nation,
without receiving any direct pecuniary aid from the

/)// - DEBT OF BUENOS AYRES. 299
other provinces, on whose behalf she acted, and
who were joint sharers with her in all the benefits of
their nationality.
The source from whence Buenos Ayres derives
her income is mainly from the customs' dues ; it is,
therefore, not surprising that Rosas and his pre
decessors should have aimed at securing: to their
port a monopoly of the entire trade of the country.
If the provinces would not voluntarily pay their
share of a just debt, it was but natural that they
should be compelled to pay it indirectly through the
custom-house. The difficulties connected with this
financial question have caused and fomented much
of the jealous hostility existing between Buenos
Ayres and the provinces. Santa Fe, the adjoining
province, which possesses every facility for foreign
trade, complained so loudly against this monopoly,
that she for many years received a subsidy from the
treasury of Rosas.
The necessity for freeing commerce from the
restrictions of Buenos Ayres became so pressing,
that the navigation of the river was, by the
unanimous consent of all parties interested, declared
free to the flags of all nations. The effect of this
measure upon Buenos Ayres is not at once apparent;
although it will be found to involve consequences of
great magnitude. She will eventually lose the com
mercial monopoly hitherto enjoyed, and from which
she derived nearly all her income ; and, politically,

300 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
the integrity of the confederation is endangered,
since the provinces on the north of the river are no
longer compelled to be dependent upon her for
their commerce. Indeed, it will be for the real
interest of these provinces (Corrientes and Entre
Rios) to sever themselves at once and effectually
from the confederacy, and either remain ^isolated, or
enter into political relations with Monte Video.
Nor have we valid grounds to expect any perma
nent peace in this part of the world until such a
change is effected ; the result of which would be
to unite the whole region from Paraguay down to
Monte Video, on the north bank of these rivers in
a natural confederacy ; the water separating them
from the southern provinces, being an open way for
the commerce of all nations. Until this separation
takes place we must not look for peace.
In advocating the necessity of such a measure, it
must, however, be admitted that the treasury of
Buenos Ayres would materially suffer, unless the
provinces consented to pay a portion of the national
debt; but this they will never do. While, therefore,
the general commerce of the country will be ex
tended by the opening of the rivers, the holders of
Buenos Ayrean Bonds are likely to be losers ; for
whatever measure drains the treasury of the Argen
tine Provinces makes the payment of that debt
increasingly doubtful. It was the desire of Rosas
to discharge these obligations, and to enable him to

YIH .. POLICY OF THE PROVINCES. 301
do so he determined to maintain the commercial
supremacy of Buenos Ayres at any cost.
These provinces have hitherto made various
efforts, laudable and desirable no doubt in their
own opinion, towards framing a constitution, under
the control of which all the provinces might be
brought to form one united confederacy. In this
attempt, however, they have always failed ; and it
is at length to be hoped that the lessons of expe
rience may induce them to abandon a measure
wholiy impracticable. The thirteen provinces, no
minally linked together, entertain such intense
jealousy, if not dislike, towards each other, that it
would be in vain to expect harmony amongst
elements so antagonistic. Such being their social
position, it is at present the true interest of all the
provinces to remain isolated, and effectually to resist
any attempt to bring them under the domination of
any one powerful head. Whenever the inhabitants
ofthe country shall have been trained by education,
and are sufficiently intelligent, then an organiza
tion such as they propose may be practicable.
Although a congress giving birth to a federal
government is neither desirable nor practicable, yet
Buenos Ayres, as a province and sovereign state,
has many important public functions to discharge.
The most restless and ambitious of her citizens can
find an ample field for the exercise of their patriot
ism within the limits of their own province. She

302 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
occupies in many important respects the same rela
tion to the other provinces that was maintained by
Attica amongst the Greeks. Let her imbibe its spirit,
and make Buenos Ayres an example to her sisters.
The strife and heart-burnings engendered amongst
the people in contending for the sovereignty of the
Rivers Parana and Paraguay, is now happily brought
to an end. The evils inseparable from a military
despotism have been removed. The Chamber of
Representatives have now an unfettered course
before them ; and to them the civilized nations
of the world look for the maintenance of peace, and
for the immediate adoption of all such local measures
as the necessities of their country demand.
Foremost amongst these measures should be a
thorough reform not only in the laws, but in their
mode of administration. At present, both in form
and in spirit, they bear too close an affinity with the
canon laws of the middle ages.
One evil incidental to the city of Buenos Ayres,
from her unstable politics, is the necessity under
which many foreigners find themselves placed, of
sending their children either to the United States,
or to Europe, for an education : an evil that is still
further augmented, when whole families are found
returning to their native countries, because the land
of their adoption does not supply the means of such
an education as they desire for their children.
Probably one ofthe severest injuries ever inflicted

VII? "" IMPORTANCE OF EDUCATION. 303
by Rosas upon foreigners was the issue of a decree
bringing their schools under the regulations of the
police. By this tyrannical act, equally unjust and
impolitic, he nullified the efficiency of institutions
which had occupied the anxious attention of British
merchants in Buenos Ayres for many years, and on
which they had expended much care and a large
Sum of money : and these, had they been allowed to
flourish, would have benefited the rising generation
of all countries in Buenos Ayres. The inhabitants
of the Argentine Provinces are not aware that the
extension of their commerce, and the consequent
increase of their own prosperity, will be greatly in
fluenced by the way in which they legislate upon
this important question of education. The Christian
peoples professing the reformed faith — and who
have now become the most powerful in the world —
will enter reluctantly into intimate relations with
any country where they are denied the privilege of
educational institutions, in accordance with their
own views of Christian doctrine.
The schools whose efficiency Rosas destroyed are
still in existence ; but the police may, upon the most
flimsy pretext, close their doors at any moment.
There are so many important duties to be dis
charged by a managing committee, and so large
an outlay of capital involved in erecting suitable
buildings, and procuringand remuneratingcompetent
professors, that British subjects, before they again

304 THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES.
enter upon this onerous task, should have an assur
ance from the authorities that their educational insti
tutions shall be solely under their own management,
and free from the controlling power ofthe police.
The attentive reader of the preceding pages will
find abundant reasons for the necessity of extreme
caution and vigilance in prosecuting commerce in
the countries on both banks ofthe rivers Parana and
Paraguay. If romance could be blended with the
spirit of traffic, it would surely be excited by the
prospect of exploring Paraguay ; a country for so
many years closed by its late dictators to the eyes of
the world. But, even in looking towards this virgin
field of commercial enterprise, too much prudence
and foresight cannot be exercised. The recent poli
tical events, and the organic changes likely to result
therefrom, are so momentous, that we must not too
hastily judge, from their immediate effects, of their
ultimate influence upon commerce.
But while our own colonies of Australia and New
Zealand offer such rich and boundless fields for the
profitable employment of capital amongst our own
countrymen, there is less inducement than ever for
merchants to risk their capital and energies amongst
a race of people where the wealth of nature is
wasted by the combined operation of ignorance,
unstable government, and interminable warfare.
THE END.

APPENDIX

APPENDIX A.
BRAZILIAN TREATY.
Ministry of Foreign Relations — Special Convention qf
Alliance between the Empire qf Brazil, the Oriental
Republic, and the States of Entre Rios and Cor
rientes.
We, the constitutional Emperor and Perpetual Defender
of Brazil, make known to all who may see the present
letter of confirmation, approbation and ratification, that,
on the 21st day of the month of November of the present
year, a Special Convention of Alliance was concluded and
signed in Monte Video, capital of the Oriental Republic
of the Uruguay, by their respective Plenipotentiaries
provided with full power, between the Empire of Brazil,
the said Republic, and the States of Entre Rios and Cor
rientes, whose tenor is as follows : —
In the name of the Most Holy and Indivisible Trinity,
His Majesty the Emperor of Brazil, and the Govern
ments of the Oriental Republic of the Uruguay, and of
the States of Entre Rios and Corrientes, recognizing that
the official declarations of the Governor of Buenos Ayres,
and the character of the warlike preparations that he is
making, place them, in the case of the common alliance
VOL. II. X

306 APPENDIX.
stipulated in the 15th Article of the Convention of the
29th May of this year, against that Government, whose
existence has become incompatible with the peace, the
prosperity, and the security of the Allied States; have
accorded to establish, in a special convention, the man
ner and means of discharging the obligations of that
alliance, and defeating the hostile intentions and disposi
tions of said Governor ; and for this end have named as
their Plenipotentiaries, viz. —
His Majesty the Emperor of Brazil, the Most Illustri
ous and Most Excellent Sefior Honorio Hermeto Carneiro
Leao, of his Privy Council and that of the State, Senator
of the Empire, Grand Cross of the Order of Christ, and
Commander of the Imperial Order of Crucero, Minister
Plenipotentiary of Brazil, charged with a special mission
near the Government of the Oriental Republic of the
Uruguay —
His Excellency the President of the Oriental Republic
of the Uruguay —
His Excellency Don Manuel Herrera y Obes, Minister-
Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs —
And their Excellencies the Governors of the States of
Entre Rios and Corrientes, Dr. Don Diogenes, Jose de
Urquiza, Charge d' Affaires of the States of Entre Rios
and Corrientes, near the Government of the Oriental
Republic of the Uruguay.
Who, after having exchanged their respective powers
that were found in good and due form, agreed in declar
ing and adjusting the following : —
Art. 1. The Allied States solemnly declare that they
do not pretend to make war on the Argentine Confedera
tion, nor to encroach in any way on the full liberty of the
communities in the exercise of the sovereign rights they

APPENDIX , A- . 307
derive from their laws and compacts, or from the perfect
independence of their nation. On the contrary, the only
object that the Allied States propose is, to free the Argen
tine community from the oppression it suffers under the
tyrannical domination of Don Juan Manuel Rosas, and to
assist it ; so that, organized in the regular form it may
deem most expedient for its interests, its peace and
friendship with the neighbouring states, it may freely
constitute itself, establishing with them the political rela
tions and of good neighbourhood, so much required for
their reciprocal progress and aggrandizement.
Art. 2. In virtue of the preceding declaration, the
States of Entre Rios and Corrientes shall take the initia
tive in the operations of the war, constituting themselves
the principal party in it; and Brazil and the Oriental
Republic shall only act as mere auxiliaries, in so far as
may be allowed, for the best and speediest attainment of
the end at which all aspire.
Art. 3. As a consequence of the preceding stipulation)
His Excellency General Urquiza, Governor of Entre Rios,
as General-in-Chief of the Entre Riano-Corrientino army,
engages to pass the Parana in the shortest possible time,
in order to act against the Governor Don Juan Manuel
Rosas, with all the forces of which he can dispose, and
with the contingents of the Allied States that may be
placed at his disposal.
Art. 4. These contingents shall be —
On the part of H. M. the Emperor of Brazil, a division
composed of 3,000 Infantry, a regiment of Cavalry, and
two batteries of Artillery, well provided with men, animals,
and everything necessary.
Art. 5. The division of the Imperial Army, mentioned
in the preceding article, shall in no case be so sub-

308 APPENDIX.
divided or disseminated as to cease to be under the imme
diate command of its respective chief. Notwithstanding,
it shall act in conformity with the superior dispositions and
orders of his Excellency General Urquiza, except in the
case when a previous understanding and concert may be
impossible. Art. 6. To enable the states of Entre Rios and Corri
entes to meet the extraordinary expenses they must incur,
with the movement of their army, H. M. the Emperor of
Brazil shall supply them, by way of loan, with the
monthly sum of 100,000 patacons, for the term of four
months, reckoned from the date when said states ratify
the present Convention, or during the time that may
transpire till the disappearance of the government of
General Rosas, should this event take place before the
expiration of said term.
This sum shall be realized by means of bills, drawn
upon the National Treasury at eight days after sight, and
delivered monthly by the Minister Plenipotentiary of
Brazil to the agent of his Excellency the Governor of
Entre Rios.
Art. 7. His Excellency the Governor of Entre Rios en
gages to obtain from the government that may immedi
ately succeed that of General Rosas, the recognition of
said loan as a debt ofthe Argentine Confederation, and to
effect its prompt payment, with the interest of six per
cent, per annum.
In the improbable case of his being unable to obtain it,
the debt shall remain chargeable on the States of Entra
Rios and Corrientes ; and for the guarantee of its pay
ment, with the stipulated interest, their Excellencies the
Governors of Entre Rios and Corrientes forthwith mort
gage the rents and the public lands of said states.

APPENDIX. A_ 309
Art. 8. The Imperial Army, at present stationed in the
Oriental State, shall remain there, occupying such points
of the coast of the River Plate or Uruguay as may be
most expedient; and its General-in-Chief shall supply
the aid that may he requested from him by his Excel
lency the Governor of Entre Rios, whether for the de
fence of that state and Corrientes, or for the operations of
the war on the western bank of the Parana. It is under
stood, nevertheless, that, independently of requisitions,
the General-in-Chief of the Imperial Army may pass,
with all the forces under his command, should the events
of war so demand.
In the latter case, said General shall preserve the com
mand of all the forces of his Majesty the Emperor, always
when possible placing himself in previous concert and un
derstanding with his Excellency General Urquiza in all
that may respect the march of the operations of the war,
and especially as to what may contribute to its successful
issue. Art. 9. The Imperial squadron shall be placed at the
points most convenient in the opinion of its chief, with
whom his Excellency General Urquiza will arrange, that
it may lend every possible assistance for the passage of
the Parana, and for the security of its territories and
coasts, or for any other operation that may tend to pro-
toote the objects of the alliance.
Art. 10. Independently of the aforementioned assist
ance, the Imperial Government will supply the Entre
Riano-Corrientino army with 2,000 cavalry swords, and
subsequently, the General-in-Chief of his Majesty the
Emperor will leftd himself to the supply of the arms and
ammunition that may be required, and that he may have
disposable. The import of these supphes will be appended

310 APPENDIX.
as an addition to the loan of money, and payable in the
same manner.
Art. 11. His Excellency General Urquiza shall supply
the horses that may be requisite for the troop or troops
of cavalry of the Imperial division mentioned in Art. 4,
and for any contingent that may be required by him,
deducting their value from the payment of the debt that
he may have contracted with the Imperial Government.
Art. 12. His Excellency the President of the Oriental
Republic of the Uruguay shall contribute, on his part,
with all his available resources besides the force men
tioned in Art. 4, and from his artillery park shall supply
all the ammunition that may be required by his Excel
lency General Urquiza.
Art. 13. The expenses of pay, subsistence and ammu
nition of the troops wherewith the allied states may con
tribute, shall be defrayed by said states.
Art. 14. The stipulation contained in the 18th Art. of
the Convention of the 29th May shall continue in force,
and besides that, the Governments of Entre Rios and
Corrientes engage to employ all their influence with the
government that may be organized in the Argentine Con
federation, that it may accord and consent to the free
navigation of the Parana and other affluents of the River
Plate, not only for vessels belonging to the Allied States,
but likewise to all the other littorals that may conform to
the same liberty of navigation in that part of the said
rivers that belongs to them.
It being understood that, should the Government of
the Confederation and those of the other littoral states, not
choose to admit said liberty of navigation in what con
cerns them, and should not consent to the arrangement
necessary for that purpose, the States of Entre Rios and

APPENDIX. A - 311
Corrientes shall maintain it with the Allied States, and
shall treat with them alone for establishing the police and
security of said navigation.
Art. 15. Should the allied forces, from any vicissitude
of war, have to abandon the whole of the territory they
may occupy on the right bank of the Parana and the
Plate, the Imperial squadron is bound to facilitate and
protect that retreat.
Art. 16. In the case above supposed, the Oriental
forces and those of His Majesty the Emperor shall, if
possible, combine in a single body, and shall remain under
the command of the chief of the highest rank, or that
being equal, under the orders of him who may command
the greatest number.
Art. 17. Said forces thus combined shall guard and
defend the States of Entre Rios and Corrientes, should
said aid be required of them by the chiefs of the armies
and governors of said States.
Art. 18. The conditions of peace shall be adjusted by
the chiefs of the allied forces, soliciting for their execution
the approbation of their respective governments, or of
their duly authorised representatives.
Art. 19. The army of his Majesty the Emperor, so
long as it may be stationed in the Oriental Republic of
Uruguay, shall lend every possible aid, and such as may
be required from it by its respective government, for the
maintenance of public order and the legal regime; if
during that period, prior to the Presidential election, any
of the cases should occur specified in the 6th article of
alliance existing between the Empire and the Republic.
Art. 20. The Government of the Republic of Para
guay shall be invited to enter into the alliance by sending
it a copy of the present Convention, and should it do so,

312 APPENDIX.
by conforming to the conditions above inserted, it shall
take the part that may correspond to it in the operations
for the purpose of said alliance.
Art. 21. This convention shall be kept secret till its
object has been accomplished ; its ratification shall be
exchanged in the Court of Rio Janeiro within the term of
thirty days, should it be impossible to effect it sooner.
In testimony whereof, we the undersigned Plenipoten
tiaries of his Majesty the Emperor of Brazil, of his Ex
cellency the President of the Oriental Republic of the
Uruguay, and ofthe States of Entre Rios and Corrientes,
in virtue of our full powers, sign the present Convention
with our hands, and cause to be placed on it the seal of
our arms.
Done in Monte Video, the 21st of November, 1851.
Signed, H. H. Carneiro Leao.
M. Herrera y Obes.
Diogenes Jose de Urquiza.
This convention was afterwards ratified in Rio Janeiro,
on the 10th of December, 1851. By the President of
the Oriental Republic, on the 21st of November; by
General Urquiza, on the part of Entre Rios, and by the
Governor of Corrientes, on the 1st of December, same
year.

APPENDIX. 313

APPENDIX B.
TREATY BETWEEN THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES
AND PARAGUAY.
" H. E. the Provisional Director of the Argentine Con
federation, General Don Justo Jose^ d'Urquiza and, H. E.
the President of the Republic of Paraguay, Don Carlos
Antonio Lopez, with the view of fixing definitively the
relations between the two States, founded on the principle
of reciprocal interest, community of origin, and other cir
cumstances that naturally unite them, have resolved to
establish in the more necessary part their territorial
limits ; establishing at the same time the bases on which
their commerce and navigation are to be arranged be
tween the two Republics, and fbr that purpose have
named as their plenipotentiaries, viz., — H. E. the Pro
visional Director of the Argentine Confederation, Dr.
Don Santiago Derqui, and H. E. the President of the
Republic of Paraguay, Don Benito Varela, Provisional
Minister and Secretary of State of the Foreign Relations
of the Republic, who having changed their full powers,
and found them in good and due form, have agreed on
the following articles : —
1. The River Parana is the boundary between the
Argentine Confederation and the Republic of Paraguay,
from the Brazilian possessions to two leagues higher up
than the lower mouth of the Island Atajo.

314 APPENDIX.
2. The Island of Yaureta remains belonging to the
territory of Paraguay, and that of Apipe, etc., to the
Argentine. The other firm and inundable islands be
long to the territory to which they are nearest.
3. It is stipulated as a special condition of this treaty,
a frank communication between the towns of the Parana
and the San Borja del Uruguay for the Paraguayan
and Brazilian posts, with the necessary escorts for their
safety. 4. The River Paraguay, from bank to hank, belongs in
perfect sovereignty to the Republic of Paraguay, to its
confluence with the Parana.
5. The navigation of the Bermejo is perfectly common
to the two States.
6. The landward coast from the mouth of the Bermejo
to River Atajo, is neutral territory for the distance of one
league, so that the high contracting parties shall not form
military cantonments, nor police guards ; not even for
the purpose of observing the barbarians that inhabit the
banks. 7. The Confederation concedes to the Republic the free
navigation of its flag through the Parana and its affluents,
extending to it all those immunities and advantages that
civilized governments, united by special treaties of com
merce, grant to each other ; it will not detain or prevent,
or impose duties on the passage of, any mercantile expe
dition that may have to pass through the fluvial or terres
trial territory of the Confederation to ports of Paraguay,
or from the latter to any other foreign ports, without sub
jecting them to fiscal charges, duties, searches, undoing
of packages, &c. &c, which, at the same time that they
incommode commerce, annihilate it by alarming it, and
deterring it from frequenting the most productive routes.

APPENDIX. jB. 315
8. In the same terms as the preceding article, the
Republic concedes lo the Argentine flag the free naviga
tion of the Paraguay and its affluents, and a free passage
through its terrestrial territory.
9. It is distinctly understood that both states are
entitled to dictate the regulations that they may consider
expedient, to avoid contraband during the transit, to
provide for their security, &c, with a complete reserve
of the lawful use of their perfect sovereignty in their
fluvial territory that is not limited hy public law or
express treaties.
10. The Confederation shall give a free transit through
the Parana to other foreign flags, as soon as it has made
the arrangements demanded for the same.
11. The Government of the Republic of Paraguay, in
accordance with that of the Argentine Confederation, will
co-operate with the means afforded it by the topographi
cal situation of the Republic, to facilitate the navigation
of the River Bermejo, removing the obstacles that may
have formed in its channel, doing certain works that may
render its navigation practicable, and establishing posi
tions that may serve as touching-points for vessels in the
sites and places that may be agreed upon and pointed
out by both Governments.
12. The Government of the Republic of Paraguay, when
the case arrives of its being invited so to do by that of
the Argentine Confederation, shall sanction and garrison
with previous accord a fort in the River Pilcomayo as
high up as it may be navigable ; so that from it a land
route, the shortest possible, may be afforded to commerce
through the Paraguayan territory to the frontier of
Bolivia. 13. The Paraguayans estabhshed or casually resident in

31 6 APPENDIX.
the Argentine Confederation, and the Argentines esta
blished or casually resident in the Republic, shall person
ally enjoy all the advantages and immunities of the
citizens themselves, their individual rights being respected,
being held subject only to the civil laws that are in
force, and to the mode of procedure marked out by
them. 14. In consequence of the fraternity established between
the two Republics, by community of origin, interests, and
respective situations, the citizens of Paraguay, whom
their Government may think proper to destine to culti
vate their talents in the establishments of higher branches
and studies that may be maintained by the general
Government of the Argentine Confederation, shall be
considered on a footing of equality with Argentine
citizens. 15. The present treaty shall be ratified by his Excel
lency the President of the Republic of Paraguay, within
six days of its date, and within sixty days by his Excel
lency the Provisional Director of the Argentine Confed
eration, the ratifications to be exchanged in the city of
Corrientes. In testimony whereof, the Plenipotentiaries sign the
present treaty in duplicate, sealing it with their arms,
and countersigned by their respective Secretaries, in
Ascension, the capital of the Republic of Paraguay, the
15th July, 1852.
Santiago Derqui.
Manuel Cabral.
Benito Varela.
Mariano Gonzalez.

APPKNDIX. 317

APPENDIX C.
TREATY OF ALLIANCE BETWEEN BRAZIL AND
THE ORIENTAL REPUBLIC.
We, the constitutional Emperor and Perpetual De
fender of Brazil, &c, make known to all those who may
see the present letter of confirmation, approbation, and
ratification, that on the 12th day of the month of October,
of the year 1851, there was concluded and signed, in the
Court of Rio Janeiro,by their respective Plenipotentiaries,
provided with the necessary full powers, a treaty of
alliance between Brazil and the Oriental Republic of the
Uruguay, whose tenor is the following : —
In the name of the Most Holy and Indivisible Trinity.
His Majesty the Emperor of Brazil and the President
of the Oriental Republic of the Uruguay, wishing to
draw closer the political relations between the two States,
and to provide in the most convenient manner for the
re-establishment of peace and tranquillity in the Oriental
State, and for its preservation to the mutual security
of both States, have agreed to celebrate a treaty of
alliance, and for this purpose have named their Plenipo
tentiaries, viz. : —
His Majesty the Emperor of Brazil, the Most Illus
trious and Most Excellent Messers Hermito Corneiro

318 APPENDIX.
Leao, Senator of the Empire, Grand Cross of the order
of Christ, and Commander of the Imperial order of
"Crucero;" and Antonio Paulino Limpo de Abreu, of
his Council and that of the State, Senator of the Empire,
dignitary of the Imperial order of " Crucero," and gen
tleman of the order of Christ.
And the President of the Oriental Republic of the
Uruguay, Mr. Andres Lamas, President ofthe Historical
and Geographical Institute of the Republic, founding
member of that of Public Instruction, and of the Council
of the University, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister
Plenipotentiary of said Republic, near his Majesty the
Emperor of Brazil.
Who, after having exchanged their full powers, that
were found in good and due form, agreed upon the follow
ing articles : —
Art. 1. The special and temporary alliance stipulated
on the 29th May ofthe current year 1851, between Brazil
and the Oriental Republic of the Uruguay, is extended
by the present convention to a perpetual alliance, that has
for its object the support of the independence of the two
states against any foreign dominion.
Art. 2. The independence of either of the states will
be considered as attacked in the cases that may ulteriorly
be determined by both, and especially in that of declared
conquest, and when any foreign nation may attempt to
change their form of government, or to impose the person
or persons that are to govern them.
Art. 3. In any of the cases of alliance, the two high
contracting parties will agree between themselves whether
co-operation should be lent, and will regulate it according
to the necessity and resources of which each can dispose.
Art. 4. It is understood that the high contracting

APPENDIX. £ , 319
parties engage reciprocally to guarantee the integrity of
their respective territories.
Art. 6. To fortify the Oriental nationality by means of
internal peace and constitutional habits, the Government
of His Majesty the Emperor of Brazil engages to lend an
effective aid to that which may be constitutionally elected
in the Oriental Republic, for the four years of its legal
duration. Art. 6. This assistance shall be lent by the sea and land
forces of the empire, on the requisition of the said consti
tutional government of the Oriental Republic, in the fol
lowing cases : —
1st. In the case of any armed movement against its
existence and authority, let the pretext of the insurgents
be what it may.
2nd. In the deposition of the President by unconstitu
tional means.
Art. 7. The Imperial Government shall not, under any
pretext, refuse its assistance in either of the cases of the
preceding article.
Art. 8. If on the expiration of the four years, during
which the assistance stipulated in the preceding article is
to continue, the state of the country should demand its
continuation, the empire shall lend it for four years more,
should the new President so solicit formally, in virtue of
a special resolution adopted by the competent authority.
Art. 9. Both the high contracting parties declare very
explicitly and very categorically, that whatever may
happen to be the use of the assistance which the empire
may have to lend to the Oriental Republic of the Uru
guay, in conformity with the preceding articles, this
assistance shall, in every case, be confined to causing to
be re-established the order and the exercise of the consti-

320 APPENDIX.
tutional authority, and shall immediately close when these
objects have been accomplished.
Art. 10. All the expenses of the transport maintenance
and preservation of the forces, both sea and land, that
may be demanded and conceded, in the terms of the fore
going articles, — the pay and rewards of the officers and
soldiers of the imperial army and navy, and the salaries
of the crews of the latter, till the cessation of the assist-.
ance lent, — shall be on account of the Government of the
Republic of the Uruguay, and shall be paid at the time
and in the way that may be stipulated.
Art. 11. To secure the pacification and guarantee the
preservation of public order in the Oriental State, consult
ing the legitimate interests of all its inhabitants, those
of humanity, and those of the neighbouring states, the
President of the Oriental Republic engages, —
1st. To publish a complete amnesty, and an absolute
oblivion of all political acts and opinions anterior to the
day of the ratification of the present treaty.
This amnesty shall have no exception whatever; and
once published, no one shall be accused, tried, or punished
for political acts anterior to the ratification of this treaty,
though they may have offended the rights of a third
party ; nevertheless the Government ofthe Republic may,
should it deem it expedient for the establishment and con
solidation of public order, command some or several of
the most notable military chiefs to reside temporarily out
of the country, paying them the salary to which they are
entitled by their commission in the army of the Republic,
should they so solicit, recognizing the authority of their
Government. 2nd. To prohibit, by all the means that may be within
his reach and in the sphere of the constitutional attributes

APPENDIX. C , 321
of the authorities of the States, accusations and dis
cussions by the' press upon said acts and persons compre
hended in the amnesty, for the purpose of rendering the
oblivion of the past effective, and so calming the minds.
3rd. To order to be restored to their lawful owners*
the immoveable property that may have been confiscated
during the war that is about to terminate, contrary to the
provisions of the 146th Article of the Constitution of the
Republic. 4th. To adopt efficacious measures for restoring and
preserving all the inhabitants of the Republic in the full
enjoyment of the guarantees that are conceded to them
by the articles of its Constitution.
Art. 12th. It is understood that the measures compre
hended in the three first paragraphs of the preceding
article are to be duly published, in order to be carried into
effect with the act of the ratification of the presen'
treaty. Those of the 4th paragraph that require regle-
mentary dispositions shall be put in execution as soon as
possible. Art. 13th. If during the term of the protection of
Brazil to the Government of the Oriental Republic of the
Uruguay any rebellion should be raised against that of
his Majesty the Emperor in the territories conterminous
with that of the Republic, the Government of the said
Republic engages to tend to the legal authorities and
forces of Brazil all the protection and assistance that
may be within its reach ; not to allow any kind of com
merce with the rebels, and to place those who may seek
an asylum in its territory, without violation, however, of
the obligations imposed upon it by humanity, the liberality
of its institutions, and our own dignity, in a completely
inoffensive position, disarming them should they be armed,
vol. ii. Y

322 APPENDIX.
delivering the arms, the horses, and any other specific
articles of war to the Imperial Government.
Art. 14th. The two high contracting parties will invite
the Argentine States to become parties to the alliance, by
acceding to the preceding stipulations on terms of the
most perfect equality and reciprocity.
Art. 15th. A similar invitation shall be addressed to
the Government of Paraguay.
Art. 16th. The Government of Paraguay having com
promised itself to co-operate with that of his Majesty
the Emperor of Brazil for the maintenance of the inde
pendence of the Oriental Republic of Uruguay, and the
independence of Paraguay being important to the equi
librium and security of the neighbouring States, the
Government of the Oriental Republic of the Uruguay
engages, without prejudice to the result of the invitation
mentioned in the preceding article, likewise to co-operate
on its part with the Empire of Brazil, for the preserva
tion and defence of the independence of Paraguay.
Art. 17th. The exchange of the ratifications of the
present treaty should be made in Monte Video within the
term of thirty days, or sooner should it be possible.
In testimony whereof, we the undersigned Plenipoten
tiaries of His Majesty the Emperor of Brazil and of the
President of the Oriental Republic of the Paraguay, in
virtue of our full powers, sign the present treaty with our
hand, and cause it to be sealed with the seal of our arms.
Done in the city of Rio Janeiro, on the 12th day of the
month of October, in the year of our Lord 1851.
Honorio Hermeto Carneiro Leao.
Antonio Paulino Limpo de Abreu.
Andres Lamas.

APPENDIX, ii „ 323
And said treaty, whose tenor is inserted above, having
been presented to us, and all that it contains having been
well seen, considered, and examined by us, we approve,
ratify, and confirm it as well in the whole as in each of
its articles and stipulations, and by the present we hold it
for firm and valid so as to produce its due effect, promising
on our Imperial faith and word, inviolably to observe and
fulfil it, and to cause it to be fulfilled and observed in
every possible manner.
In testimony whereof, we cause to issue the present
letter signed by us, sealed with the great seal of the arms
of the Empire, and countersigned by our undersigned
Minister and Secretary of State.
Given in the palace of Rio Janeiro, on the 13th day of
the month of October, in the year 1851.
Pedro the Emperor.
Paulino Jose Soares De Souza.

J

GLOSSARY.

Estancia Puesto Chacra

Patio .
Potro perias
Siesta .

Cattle-farm. Sheep-station.Tillage-farm.
Abut. Suburban villa.
Courtyard. Half-tamed colt.
Dram shops.
Midday sleep.

London : Printed by Stkwaet and Mueeat, Old Bailey.

6536